F ttlEf*f*- m ma LIBRARY OK THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. THE THE IMPERIAL GAZETTEER; A GENERAL DICTIONARY OP GEOGRAPHY. THE IMPERIAL GAZETTEER; A GENERAL DICTIONARY OF GEOGRAPHY, PHYSICAL, POLITICAL, STATISTICAL, AND DESCRIPTIVE, COMPILED FROM THE LATEST AND BEST AUTHORITIES. EDITED BY W. G. BLACKIE, PH.D., FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIKT1. WITH SEVEN HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS, VIEWS, COSTUMES, MAPS, PLANS. &o. VOLUME I. BLACKIE AND SON: FREDERICK STREET, GLASGOW; SOUTH COLLEGE STREET, EDINBURGH; AND WARWICK SQUARE, LONDON. MDCCCLVI. GLASGOW : V. I. UL&CKIK AND CO., PRIMEKS, 5/02. PREFACE. " NEXT to a good Dictionary, the most generally useful book is a good GAZETTEER. At no time, probably, was such a work more urgently wanted than now, when the relations of this country with foreign parts have been so greatly extended, when the progress of British power and enter prise has opened up so many new fields for scientific inquiry and commercial speculation, and when so many large and interesting additions have been made to our geographical knowledge; but which, being mostly confined to special, and often expensive works, and to the transactions of learned societies, have not hitherto been accessible to the public generally." Such were some of the reasons adduced in the Prospectus for commencing to publish the IMPERIAL GAZETTEER, the first part of which was issued in July, 1850. Whatever value these reasons may have possessed at that period, it has gone on increasing at a rapid ratio, until now, at the close of the Work, the hostilities in which we are engaged with one of the mightiest empires of the earth, impart an additional and intense stimulus to the acquirement of geographical knowledge. In concluding this undertaking, which has occupied the Editor s attention, more or less closely, for the last eight years, little more remains than to indicate the plan upon which the GAZETTEER has been written, and to note some particulars respecting its production. A leading aim throughout has been to maintain a proper medium between those works which give lengthy and elaborate articles, and consequently treat of a comparatively small number of places, and those which, by giving very short meagre articles, often little better than registers of positions, are enabled to include an immense number of places. While in the number of articles the IMPERIAL GAZETTEER greatly exceeds works of the former, it does not fall much short of works of the latter class; for, by a rigid exclusion of irrelevant matter, by carefully avoiding the repetition of information in articles relating to the same subjects, though necessarily arranged under different heads, and by adopting a concise style of writing, space has been found, generally speaking, to notice all known towns, having not less than 1000 inhabitants, and many even of a smaller popu lation, besides including the needful articles on countries, seas, lakes, rivers, mountain-ranges, &c. To facilitate the labour of consultation, the Editor has endeavoured to construct all the articles upon a uniform plan. In those on TOWNS, first the position is given, then a descrip- b 229518 vi PREFACE. tion and enumeration of the principal buildings and institutions, followed by an account of the manufactures and trade, and closed, where needful, with succinct historical notices; the popula tion being always at the end. In the articles on COUNTRIES, first the position, boundaries, and general features are noticed; then, in suitable detail, the mountains and valleys, lakes, rivers, climate, natural products, manufactures, trade, people, manners and customs, language and literature, government, army and navy, &c.; and, at the end, the chief facts in their history. All these subjects, however, are not treated of under separate headings in the articles on every country; but, where they are, they will be found generally to follow in the order above indicated, and where they are not, the subjects at least will usually be found adverted to pretty much in the same sequence. In fulfilment of the promise made in the Prospectus to consult, in the compilation, the most recent and authentic works, both home and foreign, reference may with confidence be made to the authorities quoted at the end of the articles. That these authorities have not been more uniformly appended as the Work advanced, was owing wholly to the urgent demands upon the allotted space by the accumulation of materials, and the fear of still further increasing the extent of the book. Besides the use that has been made of several public libraries, a private library, extending to nearly 2500 volumes, has been collected, exclusively for the compilation of the IMPERIAL GAZETTEER, including works in French, Italian, Spanish and Portuguese, German, Dutch, Danish, and Swedish. In countries whose languages are written in the Roman or Gothic character, the spelling adopted of the names of places, i?, generally speaking, that used by the natives themselves. To this rule, however, there are numerous and notable exceptions: thus, for instance, while there has been no hesitation in writing Niirnberg for Nuremberg, Wiirtemberg for Wirtemberg, Nijmegen for Nymwegen, Leipzig and Danzig for Leipsic and Dantzic, it was deemed inexpedient to write Livorno for Leghorn, Torino for Turin, Firenze for Florence, &c., though in cases like these, where an English name is used as the leading word in the article, the true native name is usually appended in brackets. In countries, the languages of which are not written in the Roman or Gothic character, the attainment of uniformity of spelling is impracticable. Linguists of the same country are not at one as to the orthography of sounds, and those of different countries spell them according to the canon of pronunciation of their native language ; thus the sound of sh in the English word shall would, by a Frenchman, be written ch; by a German, sch; by an Italian, sci; by a Swede, sk or sj, &c.j rendering a strict inquiry into the nationality of the writer necessary when interpreting his orthography. The Editor has much pleasure in acknowledging the valuable assistance he has received from William Desborough Cooley, Esq., F.R.G.S., author of Inner Africa Laid Open, &c., &c.; G. S. Brent, Esq., F.R.G.S.; Henry Beveridge, Esq., Advocate; Sir Robert H. Schomburgk, author of Reisen in Guiana und am Orinoko, &c., British Consul in Santo Domingo; and without further particularizing, his best thanks are cordially returned to those gentlemen, both in this country and in foreign countries, who kindly revised the articles on the places of their residence or their PREFACE. vii nativity, including many of the most important towns both at home and abroad; and to those very numerous correspondents, in all parts of Scotland, England, and Ireland, who, by obligingly fur nishing replies to the Schedule of Queries submitted to them respecting the place of their residence, supplied an amount of accurate information that has greatly enhanced the value of the GAZETTEER. The PICTORIAL ILLUSTRATIONS, 567 in number, were selected by, and executed under the superintendence of Mr. Robert Blackie, one of the Publishers. They are derived partly from original drawings, but principally from engravings and expensive illustrated works ; the authorities from which they are taken are given under the titles of the subjects. While these authorities serve to authenticate the drawings, they also indicate where further illustrations of the same localities are likely to be found; and by thus showing the great variety of sources from which the views have been derived, give a slight idea of the extensive research undertaken in collecting them, the entire series forming only a small selection from the large mass of materials and authorities which have been accumulated and consulted for the purposes of illustration. Preference having been given to views published in the countries to which they relate, as likely to be the most authentic, works published in France, Switzerland, Spain, Italy, Germany, Holland, Belgium, Norway, Russia, Hungary, the United States, India, and the British Colonies, have thus been bid under contribution. The small MAPS and PLANS, 172 in number, were drawn and engraved by William Hughes, E.R.G.S., and reproduced for surface-printing by glypho- graphy, of which art they furnish very successful specimens. The Census of the population of the United Kingdom, in 1851, not having been fully issued until the publication of the GAZETTEER was considerably advanced, the population of places in this country, in letters A M, unless specially marked 1851, is given according to the Census of 1841 ; iii letters O Z it is given according to the Census of 1851. But for the purpose of thoroughly correcting the populations of all places in Great Britain and Ireland according to the Census of 1851, an APPENDIX has been added, furnishing an abstract of the population returns, not merely of the places mentioned throughout the GAZETTEER, but of all the parishes in the three king doms, and all the towns, townships, villages, and hamlets of 500 inhabitants and upwards, thus giving the population of a multitude of places that could not, with propriety, be included in the body of the Work. In conclusion, the Editor indulges the hope that the IMPERIAL GAZETTEER will be deemed no unimportant contribution to the collected geographical knowledge of the present day, and that the efforts made to render it a Standard Work of Reference have not been altogether without success. W. G. BLACKIE. GLASGOW, February, 1855. COMPANION TO THE "IMPERIAL DICTIONARY." THE IMPERIAL GAZETTEER; A. GENERAL DICTIONARY OF GEOGRAPHY, f fogsitral, $alttttal, Statistical, airt fflesrnptt be. INCLUDING COMPREHENSIVE ACCOUNTS or THE COUNTRIES, CITIES, PRINCIPAL TOWNS, VILLAGES, SEAS, LAKES, RIVERS, ISLANDS. MOUNTAINS, VALLEYS, &c., IN THE WORLD. COMPILED FROM THE LATEST AND BEST AUTHORITIES, AND ILLUSTRATED WITH VIEWS AND PLANS OF THE MORE REMARKABLE CITIES, PORTS, AND HARBOURS. NEXT to a good Dictionary, the most generally useful book is a good GAZETTEER. At no time, probably, was such a work more urgently wanted than now, when the relations of this country with foreign parts have been so greatly extended, when the progress of British power and enterprise has opened up so many new fields for scientific inquiry and commercial speculation, and when so many large and interesting additions have been made to our geographical knowledge; but which, being mostly confined to special, and often expensive works, and to the transactions of learned societies, have not hitherto been accessible to the public generally. It is under a due sense of the importance of these considerations, and with a view to supply other desiderata which the lapse of time and the natural mutability of things have created, that the Publishers have been induced to bring out the IMPERIAL GAZETTEER. In compiling this Work, the most recent and authentic sources home and foreign from which any thing new and interesting can be obtained, will be consulted ; and particular attention will be paid to the Trade and Resources of the various places described ; and to the Social Condition, Manners, Customs, &c., of the Inhabitants. Great care will also be bestowed on the Physical Geography of Countries in the various departments of Geology, Hydrography, Climatology, Botany, Zoology, &c., and much pains will be taken to attain accuracy in laying down geographical positions and relative distances, by consulting the best and most recent maps, or by deducing them from good written authorities. It will thus be understood that the IMPERIAL GAZETTEER wiD not be compiled by merely remoulding old materials, but will be an entirely new and carefully drawn up Work, adapted, in every respect, to the wants of the present day, by the information being brought down to the latest possible period. Hitherto, most works of this kind have been compiled on one or other of two different, and, to a certain extent, opposite plans ; the one being to give the greatest possible number of places, with brief accounts of each ; the other, to give lengthy articles, with a more limited selection of subjects. Both plans appear to be defective the one, from the meagreness of its details ; the other, from the scantiness of its list of places; many localities of interest, and not a few of importance, being in the latter case necessarily omitted. In the IMPERIAL GAZETTEER, an attempt will be made to avoid both these defects, by terse writing, judicious compression, and a rigid exclusion of irrelevant detail, and by dwelling only on the more prominent and interesting features of the localities described. It is, consequently, not intended to present the reader with lengthy wearisome treatises, but with concise readable articles, occupying a position between the scientific and the popular, retaining the precision of the one without its abstruseness, and the interest of the other without its vagueness. But it must be apparent that every place, the position of which is known, cannot be given. This will be the more obvious when it is stated, that the Ordnance map of one English county alone, Cornwall, contains 19,000 names; the Gazetteer of Germany, 200,000; that of the Austrian States, a still larger number; that of Spain, about as many ; and those of other European countries would yield proportionate numbers : so that, even before leaving Europe, the list would be swollen out to far above a million of articles, the majority of them necessarily so meagre, that the Work would be rendered little better than a dry, voluminous, and costly INDEX. While, therefore, such a copious list of places will be given, many of them made known to us for the first time by recent discovery, as it is hoped will satisfy the great majority of readers, the general aim will be to famish interesting and instructive articles, rather than mere registers of positions, containing no more information than every intelligent person can himself obtain simply by inspecting a good map. By strictly following out this plan, it is expected that the IMPERIAL GAZETTEER will be rendered quite an attractive Work, not at all deserving the imputation frequently brought against Gazetteers, in common with Dictionaries, that they are but " dry sort of reading." In conclusion, it is hoped, by the adoption of a perspicuous arrangement of matter, and by a clear and methodical treatment of subject, to render the IMPERIAL GAZETTEER a valuable work of ready reference a concise repertory of new and interesting information. It will thus form a most suitable companion to the " Imperial Dictionary," which has obtained so large a share of public patronage, and to which, it is hoped, it will be found in every respect equal. As no written description of a locality can give so accurate a conception of its features or position as a plan or pictorial representation, this Work will be profusely illustrated with Engravings on Wood printed in the text. These Illustrations will comprise Views of Cities and Towns; of Remarkable Buildings, Antiquities, Natural Scenery, Costumes, Plans of Ports and Harbours, and small Maps showing River Mouths, Islands, and Island Groups, &c., on an enlarged scale. They will be at least SEVEN HUNDRED in number, and will be derived from the most authentic sources. BLACKIE & SOX: GLASGOW, EDINBURGH, AND LONDON. HINTS TO FACILITATE THE CONSULTATION OF THE GAZETTEER. ac. . . arrond. bail. . bor. . can. . cap. . co. . com. . dep. . dist. . E. . Fah. . ( arrondisse ( ment. . bailiwick. . borough. . canton. . capital. . county. . commune 5 depart- ( raent. . district. . East. ( Fahren- 1 heit. ABBREVIATIONS. ft. ... feet. ( geographi- geo. sq. m. J cal square gov. bun. isl. lat. . I. . Ion.. N. . par. jparl. MARKED LETTERS. The subjoined marked letters, used in the names of various foreign places, should be sounded as follows : a in German, Swedish, and Danish names, as a in fate. o in German, Swedish, and Danish names, as eu in the French word pen. There is no equivalent for tins sound in English. It is common, how ever, in Scotch, and is the same as oo in smoor, or m in muir, puir. it in German, Swedish, and Danish names, similar to the French u. The same remark applies to this as to o. The sound is a sort of com pound between that of 8 and e, as in me. a in Swedish names, nearly like oa in boat. n in Spanish names, as French gn, or resembling n-ny, as Banos, pronounce Ean-nyos. c in French, Spanish, and Portuguese names, as c soft So in PortuguesCj something resembling oung. DISTANCES, MEASURES, HEIGHTS, POSITIONS, &c. Distances are given in British statute miles, and are to be understood as direct, unless otherwise expressed ; having all been carefully measured on the best maps. The area of countries, islands, &c., is given in square statute miles, unless explicitly stated to be in geographical miles. In smaller tracts, as counties, the area is given in imperial acres. All foreign monies, weights, and measures, are reduced to British staniards. Degrees of heat are expressed according to Fahrenheit s thermometer. Soundings, in the small maps of ports and roadsteads, are in fathoms. Longitudes are always E. or W. from Greenwich. For latitudes and longitudes, three special authorities have been consulted, besides maps, namely : Tables of Maritime Positions, in The Practice of Naviga tion and Nautical Astronomy, by Henry Raper, Lieut. _ R.N. London, 1849. Verzeichniss Geographischer Ortsbestimmungen nach den neusten Quellen, mit Angabe derselben, von C.L., v. Littrow. Leipzig, 1844; Wien, 1845. priii &c., par Ph. J." Coulier. Paris, 1828. Generally speaking, a preference has been given to the tables of Raper and Littrow ; but wherever a position has been taken from any of the three works, it is indicated by the letter (n.), (L.), or (c.), following the longitude. Very many positions, however, have no distinctive letter attached to them. These are either not to be found in any of the Tables above referred to, or, for some special reason, it has been deemed better to give them on the authority of the traveller or navigator from whom the information on the locality has been derived ; unless, indeed, which is frequently the case, the only authority for them be the map. 1 statute mile =: 1760 yds. 1 geo. mile = 2025J yds. 1 sq. mile = 640 acres. 1 <<eo. sq. mile = 1-324 sq. statute miles. 10 geo. sq. miles = 13 2-tO or 13i nearly. ORTHOGRAPHY. The orthography of foreign names, as printed in English, is proverbially irregular. In the case of European countries having languages written in Roman or Gothic characters, this irregularity arises from two causes adopting the name of a locality in one country through the medium of the language of another ; for instance, Mayence, the French form, in place of Mentz, the usual English form, or Mainz, the correct German form, of the well-known town of that name on the Rhine ; and, likewise, from the writer not being acquainted with the language of the country in which the locality indi cated is situated. As regards countries whose languages arc not written in Roman or Gothic characters, the difference of orthography has in a great measure arisen from the arbitrary methods adopted to produce the desiderated sounds a point on which even distinguished linguists are at variance. Here also, as in the former case, still further irregularity is pro duced, by adopting the names of localities in such countries through the medium of some foreign continental language ; for instance, Jidda is frequently written according to the French form, Djidda ; Jebel, in the same way, becomes Djebel ; and the sound represented in English by oo in moon, or u in bull, invariably becomes ou in names adopted from French authorities. The result of all this confusion necessarily is, that the Gazetteer is often consulted in vain, in consequence of the name being looked for under a different spelling from that which has been adopted by the compiler. To assist the inquirer, as far as possible, in finding his way out of this orthographical labyrinth, a list is subjoined of the interchangeable letters and combinations of letters of most frequent occurrence. It will, therefore, be understood, that when a name in which any one of the following letters, or combinations of letters, occurs, is sought for in the Gazetteer. and not found, that it should be looked for under each, or all, of the other combinations, before it is presumed that it has been omitted : x, j, g, In Spanish names, are frequently used for each other; as Xerez for Jerez, Alaguela for Alajuela, Guadalaxara for Guadalajara, and vice versa. Letters are sometimes doubled in words ; as Arriege for Ariege, Afghanistan for Afghanistan. ou, u, and oo, are frequently used in writing the same name ; as Soudan, Sudan, Soodan; or Moultan, Multan, Mooltan. tch, and tsch, is used for ch, sounded as in church; as Tchang for Chang. c is very frequently used for , and vice versa; as Callund- borg for Kallundborg. Hi, for Ic. sch, for sh. f y, for i, and vice versa. Dj, for./; as Djebel for Jebel. "When the name of a place is composed of two words, it will usually be found under the most important and distinc tive of the two. Thus, St. Andrews, will be found under Andrews (St.), and not under St. Andrews. The same rule, with exceptions of course, holds good of names beginning with Cape, Port. San, and Santo, the latter two bring the same as HINTS TO FACILITATE THE CONSULTATION OF THE GAZETTEER. the English Saint. In consulting the Gazetteer, it will be well to observe, that if the place be not found registered under the Bad . . . German . . . bath. one word of the name, to look for it under the other ; for Bahr . . Arabic . . . sea, river. instance. Port Essington, if not found under Essington, look Bid, or Bally Celtic .... town. under Port, and rice versa; Cape of Good Hope, if not found Bash . . Turkish . . . Ben . . . Celtic head, hill. under Cape, look under Good Hope, and if not there, look Berg . . German . . . hill. under Hope. Bir . . . Arabic . . . welL PRONUNCIATION. Bouronn.or) T ,- , Numerous requests have been made, that the pronunciation of the names of places in the Imperial Qaaettcer should be Bouruu \ Turhsh Burg . . German . . . Cerro . . Spanish . cape, castle. rugged hill. given. This would, indeed, have been a very useful addition Chan . . Chinese . . . mountain. to the work, and, under this impression, it has been carefully a chLT A \ Chinese middle. considered. The difficulties, however, which stand in the l>iiung ) Cidade . . Portuguese city. way of carrying out a scheme of pronunciation to anything Citta . . Italian . . . city, town. like a satisfactory result, have been found insuperable. Some of these are sufficiently obvious. There are two ways of pronouncing foreign names : 1. According to the idiom of the English language. Ciudad . . Spanish . . . Cruz . . Spanish . . . Dagh . . Persian . . . city, cross, a mountain, or mountain range. valley. 2. According to the idiom of the language to which they V 1 Dun . . Celtic .... El. al, . . Arabic . . . fort, the, or a. belong. Eski Turkish old If the first be adopted, who is to decide in what way a word is to be pronounced ? The sounds of the English vowels are so various and uncertain, that the same name might, with perfect propriety, be sounded several ways, and yet each be Feld . . German . . . Fjeld.or Field Danish . . . "fid"}*"** " I Gebirge . German . . . field, mountain, a ridge of mountains. ia gulf, or narrow land-locked inlet or arm of the sea. mountain range. in strict accordance with the canon of English pronunciation. For example, take Altenkirchen, the name of several places in Ghaut . . Hindoo . . .- ia mountain pass, landing place, flight of steps on the side of a Prussia, Bavaria, Nassau, and Oldenburg. The name means f , , , .. . old churches, and might be pronounced with the a as in Grande -j "and portiic ue se \ great. fate, the i as in pine, and the ch as in church; or the a might Ho ... Chinese . . . river, canal. be as in father, the i as in pin, and the ch as in chord; or the Hoch . . German . . . Hinter . . Gentian high, back. a might be as in wall, and the e, in either case, as in me or in Hissar . . Turkish . . . castle. met, or one way in alten and another in kirchen. The German pronunciation would be a as in wall, e as in met, i as in pin, Iskele . . Turkish . . . Jebel . . Arabic . . . landing place, mountain, or range of mountai as. and ch as in the Scotch word loch, there being no sound K n r i Turkish . . . castle. equivalent to it in English. If difficulties so great present Kara . . Turkish black. themselves with simple German words, what will be said Kiang . . Chinese . . river. of such polysyllabic intricacies as Ootaguesquegamookook, Kil . . . Celtic . . . a burying place little." Alagasquegamook, &c., names of lakes in Maine, U. States of Kizzil ! ! Turkish " . . red. America ? Klein . . German . . little. If, on the other hand, the second plan be preferred, as being Lago . Italian . . . Mare Itu ian lake. undoubtedly the more correct, two difficulties again occur : Meer . . GermanandDuich sea, lake. the first of which is the high improbability, to say the least Mittel . . German . . . middle. of it, of meeting with an individual gifted with a knowledge Kasv . . Hunnarian . . NT A great. of all the languages in the world, or even a limited number of ulir . . Arabic Neu German river. individuals possessing that knowledge amongst them, without which the scheme could not be fully and perfectly carried out. N ftL"}*- snowy mountain. The second difficulty is equally insuperable. Supposing a number of individuals to be met with, collectively possessing Nieder . . German . . . Kueva . . Spanish . . . Kuova . . Italian . . . lower. new. uew. the requisite qualification, how could they convey to the reader even the remotest idea of many of the sounds, there being no equivalent for them in the English language ? From Ober . . German . . . Oud . . Dutch .... Paseo . . Spanish . . . Phi ar a public walk. public square or place. the simple 6 or ch of the German, the rough guttural gr of 1 i r.i! ". . / . town. the Dutch, the nasal So of the Portuguese, or the u of the Quebrada . Spanish . . . ravine, gorge. Swedish, to the chuck or click of the Bosjesuian, the num ber of sounds, of which it would be utterly impossible to give Rajah . . Sanscrit . . . Has . . . Arabic . . . Prince, royal, cape, promontory, river. the most distant conception by means of any collocation of Salinas . Spanish . salt lakes, or pools. letters known in our language, is so great, as to render a suc San . . . Spanish . . . saint. cessful attempt to indicate the correct pronunciation of many Santo, or ^ fortut/uese and ) saint. thousands of foreign names utterly hopeless. See ... German . . . lake. Serra . . Portuguese . . mountain, or mountain range. FOREIGN WORDS FREQUENTLY OCCURRING IN MAPS, AND, Shehr . { Tu p ^ att attd } city, house. THEREFORE, SOMETIMES NECESSARILY USED IN ACCOUNTS OF PLACES. Sierra . . Spanish . . . Stadt . . German . . . mountain, or mountain range, town. A .... Swedish . . . river. Su, or Soo Turkish . . . Ta . . . Chinese . . . lake, river, great. Abad . | *ffiJ2> a " ) allouse - Tag, or Tagh Turkish . . . mountain. Abbas . . Persian . . . father. Tehama . Arabic . . . plain. Aber . . Celtic . . . the mouth of a river. Tell . . . Arabic . . . hill. Agua . . Spanish . . water. Terra . . ( F $T? t "**} earth, land. Am . . . Arabic . . a spring. Ak . . . Turkish . . white. ( Italian . . ) Thai . . German . . . valley. Alameda . Spanish . . a public walk, with rows of trees. Tierra . . Spanish . . . Unter . . German . . . earth, land, under. Aldea . . j "~ tuauese ) V ^ a 8 e - Val . . . Italian . . . valley. Alt ... German . . . old. Valle . . -j ^"d portu ues e } valley. Alto . . | Sjianishjlalian, } ^^ Ville . . French . . town. Allah . . Arabic" . . . God. \Vadv . . Arabic . . . valley, a valley with a river in it. Arroyo . . Spanish . . . rivulet. Yeni . . Turkish . . . new. Bark . . German . . . brook, rivulet. Zee ... Dutch .... sea. Ofifl s <5? M THE IMPERIAL GAZETTEER; A GENERAL DICTIONARY OF GEOGRAPHY, AA AALESUND AA, a contraction for the old German Ahha, and the same as Ah, Ahe, Alia, Aach, and Ach, and meaning flowing water. As a final syllable, it appears in the name of many places; as, Stockach, Biberach, &c. Aa is the name of numer ous streams in different countries. In PRUSSIA there are five, none of them important: 1, An affluent of the old Ijssel, which it joins below Anholt, within the Dutch terri tory. 2, An affluent of the Veche, into which it falls at Neuenhaus, in the Hanoverian province of Bentheim. 3, An affluent of the Eems, into which it falls at Miinstcr. 4, An affluent of the Werre, which it joins at Herford, 15 m. S.W. Miiulen. 5, A small stream near Dennewitz, in the vicinity of Jiiterbock, called also Aha and Agerbach. In SWITZER LAND there are four: 1, An affluent of the Aar, rising in the canton Luzern, in lake Baldegg; flowing through the Hall- wyler lake, the canton Aargau, and falling into the Aar near Wildegg. 2 and 3, Affluents of lake Luzern, and both in the canton Unterwalden. The one rises in lake Lungern, flows through lake Sarner, and falls into lake Luzern at Alpnach. The other rises in mount Surenen, flows past Stanz, and falls into lake Luzern near Buochs. 4, In canton Ziirich, a stream connecting lake Pfiiffikonwith lake Greiffen. After it leaves the latter lake, it is also sometimes called the Aa, but more usually the Glatt. In HOLLAND, streams with the name Aa are very numerous, having generally, how ever, a distinguishing prefix by which they are best known ; as, the Almelosche Aa, the Fivel Aa, &c. Two streams may, however, be named, that are usually known by the name Aa simply: 1, In N. Brabant, rising near Mierde, and flowing N. till it joins the Ley, below Oosterwyk. 2, In prov. Drenthe, rising near Weestrnp, taking a N. course, and falling into the Hunse at Groningen. In BELGIUM, one in prov. Antwerp, rising N.E. from Turnhout, flowing S.E., and joining the Little Nethe (Petit or Klein Nethes) below Grobbendonck In FRANCE, one in dep. Pas de Calais, rising near the village of Bourthes. It takes a N.E. course, and falls into the strait of Dover at Gravelines, through the St. Omer Canal. In RUSSIA there are two: 1, The Boulder-Aa, prov. Liefland, or Livonia. It flows past Vol- mar and Venden, to which town it is navigable from its mouth, in the gulf of Riga. 2, The Treider-Aa, prov. Courland. It is formed by the junction of the Memel and the Alass, and falls into the gulf of Riga, close by the mouth of the Dwina. (Ritter s Geog. Lex.; Van der Aa s Neder- landen; Die. de la France; Die. de Russie.) AACH, two villages:!, In Baden, 8 m. W. from the N. end of lake Constance, on a steep hill, and partly sur rounded by a wall. It has paper, meal, and oilmills, tan neries, and dyeworks. Its inhabitants, who are R. catholics, are much occupied in rearing cattle. Pop. 800. 2, In Rhenish Prussia, near Treves. It has a church, and in the VOL. I. vicinity are quarries of gypsum and lime. Pop. 300. AACH, river. See AA. AACHEN, a city, Prussia. See AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. AAHAUS. See AHAUS. AAKIRKEBY, or AAKIRKE, a tn. Denmark, on the isl. of Bornholm, about 4 m. from its S. coast. It is the only town on the island not upon the sea-coast. Its neat church is built of black marble, quarried in the vicinity. The inha bitants are mainly devoted to agriculture. Pop. 600. (Baggesen.) AAL, a tn. Norway, prov. Buskerud, on the Ustedal, 120 m. N.W. Bergen. Pop. 4000. 2, AAL, or EL-AAL, is also the name of two small villages in Syria, pashalic of Damascus. AALBORG [Eel-castle], an ancient seaport, Denmark, in Jutland, cap. bail. Aalborg, on the S. side of the Liimfiord, and about 15m. \V. the Kattegat ; lat. 57 2 42" N. ; Ion. 9 55 E. It is intersected by two streams, is surrounded with a fosse, and contains a cathedral, a college, naval school, a bishopric library, and various other public buildings and institutions, including a richly-endowed hospital. It has a dockyard, and is a great place of trade; its manufactures of sugar, soap, snuff, chocolate, leather, and hardware are considerable, and its herring fishing is extensive. Herrings, corn, wool, hides, tar, tallow, and malt liquors, are exported ; the first and second to a considerable extent. Vessels drawing more than 10 ft. are obliged, in consequence of the filling up of the harbour, to lighten before entering. About 500 annually visit the port, and 74 belong to it, including two steamers. It hag direct steamboat and sailing-packet communication with Copenhagen. Formerly, Aalborg was the most considerable place for trade in Jutland; now, however, it is rivalled, and in some respects excelled, by Aarhuus and Randers. It is of high antiquity, being mentioned as a famous seaport in 1070. It was fortified as early as 1513. Pop. 7500. The bail, of Aalborg is bounded N. by hail. Hioring, E. by the Kattegat, S. by bail. Wiborg and Randers, and W. by the Liimfiord ; area, 888 geo. sq. m. Pop. 63,200. (Baggesen.) AALEN, a tn. Wurtemberg, circle Jaxt, formerly a free imperial city, in an agreeable well-cultivated valley on the Kocher, 43 m. E. Stuttgart. It is surrounded with turreted walls, and has two gates, a fine church, and manufactures of woollen and linen goods, and ribbons, spinning mills, tanneries, and breweries. In the neighbourhood are immense forests, and extensive iron mines. Pop. 3000 ; all Lutherans. AALESUND, a small seaport, Norway; lat. 62 24 N.; Ion. 6 5 E.; bail. Romsdal, picturesquely situated within view to the S. E. of the peaked Lang Field mountains. It has a well-sheltered harbour, a considerable number of boats engaged in the cod fishery by means of nets, and carries on a good trade, principally in cod-fish, with Italy and Spain. The AALSMKKK AARIIUUS Bteainer between Christiansand and Trondhjem calls here. Pop. in 1845, 557. AALSMKKK [Eel-sea], a vil. Holland, prov. N.Hol land, on the E. shore of the sea of Haarlem, 9 m. S. Amster dam. It has a townhouse, and a Calvinistic church, close to the sea, in a churchyard which is raised some feet in order to preserve the graves dry; a R. catholic church, an hospital for orphans and aged men and women, and a well-attended school. Fishing, especially of eels, is carried on to some extent, and in the vicinity are nurseries and fruit gardens, in which large quantities of strawberries are raised for the Amsterdam market. Pop. about 2000. (Van der Aa s Nederlaiultn.} AALST, two vil. Holland:!, In prov. Gelderland, 6 m. S.W. Bommel, on the right bank of the Maas. It has a Calvinistic church, the remains of an old castle, and 400 inhabitants. 2, In prov. N. Brabant, 4 m. S. Eindhoven, on the road between Hertogcnbosch (Bois Ic due) and Maastricht, on the streamlet Tongelreep. It is a long narrow village, whose inhabitants are employed in linen weaving and in agriculture. AALST, in IJelgium. See ALOST. AALTEN, a vil. Holland, prov. Gelderland, near the Prussian frontier, 18 m. S.E. Doesburg, and 2 m. W. Brede- voert, on the Jeft bank of the Slingerbeek. It is agreeably situated on an incline, and has a comfortable prosperous appearance. It has a Calvinistic and a R. catholic church, a school, a spinning and a weaving factory, and manufactures of bombazine, dimity, and linen goods, a brick and tile factory, oilmills, tanneries, brandy distilleries and breweries. Aalten has monthly well-frequented markets. Pop. 2000. AALTERE, a tn. Belgium. See AELTERE. AAMADT, or AAMODT, a small tn. Norway, bail. Hcdemarken, on the right bank of the Glominen, about 80m. N. Christiania. Pop. 3000. A AR [meaning Eagle, and the root of many German and Swiss names], the name of several rivers: 1, In Switzer land, the principal river after the Rhine and the Rhone. It gives ite name to the canton of Aargau, or Aar country. It rises in the Bernese Alps, and has its source in three glaciers, the Oberaar, Finsteraar, and Lauteraar. The Aar forms the romantic valley of Hasli, between the lake of Constance and the Bernese Alps ; it supplies the lakes of Brienz and Thun, and then becomes navigable. It flows past, or rather round, Bern; at the confluence of the Saane, changes its course from N.W. to N., and at the junction of the Thiele to N.E. ; touches upon Solothurn, Aarburg, Aarau, and Brugg, and falls into the Rhine, opposite Waldshut, at the village of Coblentz, after a course of about 1GO miles. From the right side it receives, as tributaries, the Emmen, the Reuss, and the Limmat, and numerous other streams; from the left, the Siminen, the Saane, and the Thiele. 2, A small stream, principality of Waldeck, \V. Germany. It rises N. of Cor- bach, and, after a N. course of 20 to 30 miles, falls into the Diemel at Warburg, in Westphalia. 3, A small stream in the duchy of Nassau, which rises near the village of "\Vehen, flows N. for about 20 miles, and falls into the Lahn at Dietz. 4, A river of Holland, an affluent of one of the numer ous branches of the Rhine, which it leaves in N. Holland, below Aarlanderveen, under the name of the Korte Aar, takes a N. course, is called the Kromme Aar, and ultimately, as the Aar proper, falls into the Amstel. AAKAU, or AHAU [Aar meadow], a tn. Switzerland, cap. canton Aargau, situated at the height of 1140 ft. above the sea, on the right bank of the Aar. It has various public buildings and useful institutions. Among the for mer are a council house and a church, and among the latter a cantonal school and other seminaries, an orphan asylum, and a public library. Aarau has a thriving trade, and manu factories of silk, cotton, vitriol, leather, cutlery, and ordnance. In the environs are mines of coal and iron. The civil war, ivhich raged for some time in Switzerland in the beginning of the last century, was terminated by the peace of Aarau in 1712. Pop., chiefly Protestants, upwards of 4000. AARBERG, or AKHEKO, a small tn. Switzerland, canton Bern, cap. of district of same name, about 12 in. N.W. Bern, on the right bank of the Aar, on a rocky eminence, which, during high floods, is surrounded by the river. It consists of one wide street lined by well-built houses, has two bridges, one of which is defended by fortifications. It has little trade, the inhabitants being chiefly occupied in agricultural pursuits. Pop. about 1(100. AARBURG, or AUBURO, a small tn. Switzerland, canton Aargau, at the confluence of the Aar and the Wigger, about i 10 in. S.W. Aarau. It has manufactures of cotton and wool, w-;th a copper foundry. The inhabitants navigate tho Aiir, and carry on a small trade in wine and other articles. On a high rock above the town is a fortified castle, built by the Bernese in 16(30, and for some time used as a state prison, but now employed as the arsenal of the canton of Aargau. Pop. 1700. AARDENBURG, a small frontier tn. Holland, prov. Zccland, 4 m. S.E. Sluis, and 10 m. N.E. Bruges, in Belgium. It has a townhouse, an old and handsome Calvinistic church, a small R. catholic church, a school, orphan hospital, two cornmills, and some manufactures of tobacco and leather. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in agriculture, and are generally in comfortable circumstances. Pop. 1474. Aar- denburg in olden times had 74 streets, five market places, and two large public squares, and as early as A.D. 1238, it was famed for its commerce. Though now 10 in. from the sea, it formerly had a port and haven in which GOO vessels could lie, and was esteemed one of the finest towns in Flan ders, and the capital of the seaports. War, inundations, and the rise in the level of the land seaward, have reduced it to its present dimensions. (Van der Aa.) AARGAU, or AKGOVIA, a northern canton of Switzer land, the IGth in the Confederation, bounded N. by the Rhine, which separates it from the grand duchy of Baden, E. by cantons Zurich and Zug, S. by Luzern, and W. by Bern, Solothurn, and Basel ; greatest length 33 in., greatest breadth 28 in., area about 400 geo. sq. m. It is hilly, being composed chiefly of spurs of the Alps and Jura, but has no mountains more than 3000 ft. high ; and it is well wooded, has numerous verdant fertile valleys- abundantly watered by the Aar and its many tributaries from the right. The climate is misty, moist, and variable, and the soil to the left of the Aar clay, compact, and difficult to work; and to the right light, sandy, and fertile. Agriculture is in an advanced state, and more grain is raised than the consumption of the canton demands. Hemp and flax are extensively raised, fruit and vegetables abound, and vine yards are numerous, but the wines are of inferior quality. The grazing is excellent, but cattle rearing is less extensively pursued than agriculture. Aargau is one of the principal seats in Switzerland for the manufacture of cotton and silk, and for the construction of machines. Cotton goods, white and coloured, silks, ribbons, linens, stockings, and other hosiery, are made. A considerable number of people find employment in fishing in the Aar and the Rhine, in the boat traffic on thcso rivers, and in the transit trade, which is carried on actively, botli by land and by water. Education is good aiul plentiful, and the head school in Aarau is quite a model of its kind. Aargau formed part of the canton Bern till the year 1798, when its in dependency, for which it had long struggled, was secured by the French Government. Frickthal, formerly belonging to Austria, was added to it in 1803. Its constitution was first fixed by the congress of Vienna, in lKl. r >. It was then rather aristocratic, but has been more popular since the revolution which took place, Dec. 1830. In 1841, the constitution was again revised, and settled in its present form. The legislative power is vested in the great council, one-half of which is renewed every three years. All citizens who have attained the age of 24 have a vote, and each 180 voters send a repre sentative to the great council. The executive power is vested in the small council of nine members (of whom at least four must be Protestants and four R. catholics), elected by and from the great council. Pop. 183,800; of whom 102,400 are Protestants, 79,300 R. catholics, and 2100 Jews. (Real Encyldopiidie; Ritter s Lex.) AAHHUUS, a seaport, Denmark, cap. bail, of same name, E. coast Jutland, of which it is now the most important town ; lat. (cath.) 56 9 30" N. ; Ion. 10 13 E. (it.) ; situated at the mouth of the Aue, which flows through the town. It is surrounded by a single wall with seven gates, and contains a college, an hospital, and a cathedral of Gothiu architecture, one of tlie largest and handsomest in the king dom. Aarhuus carries on a considerable trade, and has manufactures of wool and flax, sugar houses, snuff mills, tan neries, distilleries, and fisheries, also a large establishment foi AARLANDEUVEEN 3 ABABDEH carding woollen ra.^s, technically called shoddy. The road stead possesses good anchorage in 3 to 4 fathoms, and is safe, excepting with S.E. winds, when the sea is tremendous. There are two lights in the harbour, one on the pilot-house and one on the mole, visible 4 or 5 in. distance. The chief exports are grain, cattle, spirits, and malt. There are 40 j vessels belonging to the port, whose tonnage altogether ! amounts to 2318. Steamers and packet-boats regularly ply between it and Kallundborg and Copenhagen. The town was twice almost wholly destroyed by fire ; first in 1541, and again j in 1556. In 1578, 2200 of its inhabitants were swept oft by ] the plague. Pop. 8000. The bail, of Aarhuus is bounded N. by bail. Wiborg and Randers, E. by the Kattegat, S. by bail. Weile, and W. by bail. Kingkioping; area, 236 geo. sq. in. Pop. 40,000. It is the most densely populated of the baili wicks of N. Jutland (Baggesen.) AARLANUERVEEN [Aar turf lands], a vil. Holland, prov. S. Holland, 13 m. N.E. Leyden, 5 m. S.E. Woubrugge. It forms a double row of houses round the Calvinistic church, which is an old structure. It has nlso a R. catholic church, a Jewish synagogue, a neat school with teacher s house attached, and a cornmili. In the vicinity are several water mills, and many storehouses for cheese; and the land is rich and well cultivated. Pop. about 1500. AARLE, a vil. Holland, prov. N. Brabant, 8 in. N.E. Eindhoven, and 18 in. S.E. Hcrtogenbosch, on the right bank of the Aa. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in bringing in waste lands, and in rearing poultry, sending some hundreds of young chickens, every Thursday, to Hertogen- bosch. There is here, also, a bell foundry. Pop. 450; and of the combined par. of Aarle and Rixtel, 1 200. AAROE, a small Danish isl. duchy of Schleswig, N. por tion of the Little Belt, 1 m. from the coast, about lat. 55 15 N.; Ion. 9 45 E. It is about 2 J m. long, by rather more than I broad. Some of its few inhabitants are good pilots. This island is sometimes mistaken for the much larger one at the S. end of the Little Belt named Aeroe. AARON, a small peninsula on the W. coast of France, dep. Ille et Vilaine, Bretagne, on which the town of St. Malo is built. A narrow causeway connects it with the mainland. See MALO (Sx). AARWANGEN, a small tn. Switzerland, cap. circle of same name; on the right bank of the Aar, canton of, and about 30 in. N.E. Bern. It is built partly on a rising ground, and partly on a plain. It has important cattle fairs. In the vicinity is a mine of pit coal. Pop. 2153. A AS, a vil. France. See EAUX BONNES. AAS-GAARSTRAND, a small port, Norway, bail. Jarls- berg and Laurvig, on the W. shore of Christiania Gulf, 10 m. S.S.E. Holmestrand. Wood is shipped here. Pop. in 1845. 434. AASZY, A API, or NAHK-EL-ARY [the ancient Axius or Oronten], a river, Syria, rising on the E. side of the Anti- Libanus, near the village of El-Ras, 27 in. N.E. Balbec, in a triangular-formed natural basin in the rock, measuring about 50 paces round, and nearly concealed by trees and bushes, of which chestnut, willow, and dwarf oak are most, plentiful. It takes a N. course through the fertile plain of Hamah and the valley of El-Ghab towards the lake of Aritioch or Agh Den- giz, whose waters it receives, and thence flows S.W. to the Mediterranean, into which it falls after a course of about 200m. I 1 forms some lakes, receives the waters of various rivers, and by its overflowings greatly fertilizes the land upon its banks, rendering it capable of supporting a much greater extent of population than at present inhabit it. The river abounds in fish, particularly a species of eel much in demand by the Greeks, for whose consumption, during Easter feasts, large quantities are annually salted and exported. The Aaszy is j not navigable, being encumbered at its mouth by a sandbank, on which, in winter, there is only 3 ft. to 9 ft. of water; but ! according to Col. Chesney, this bar might easily be removed, ! and the river rendered navigable, at least for boats, as far up < as Murad Pasha, 27m. above Antioch. The fall of the river ; from the last-named city to the sea, is not above 5^ ft. in the mile. (Jour. Geog. Soc.) AATYL, or AXIL, once an important city, now a small vil. Syria, in the great plain called the llauran, or Haouran, 54 m. S.S.E. Damascus, and 48 in. E. lake Tabaria. It lies in a wood, and is about 1 in. in circuit, though the inha- bitants consist only of from 300 to 400 Druses, who dwell in huts among the ruined edifices. There are here the remains of two handsome temples; that on the N. side, called El-Kaszr, i.s in complete ruins. It consisted of a square building, with a high arch across its roof; two niches were on each side of the gate, and in front a portico of columns, the number of which it is now impossible to determine. On the S.E. side of Aatyl stands the other temple, which is of small dimensions, but of elegant construction. It has a portico of two Corinthian columns, and two pilasters, each of which has a projecting base for a statue. The gate is covered with sculpture On both temples arc numerous inscriptions in Greek. The tobacco of Aatyl is preferred to that of any other part of the Haouran. (Burckhardt.) ABABDE, or SHEIK ABADEII, a vil. Middle Egypt, on the right bank of the Nile, 8 m. S. Bcni Hassan, lat. 27 43 N. ; Ion. 30 57 E. Near it are the ruins of the ancient Antinoe, or Antinoopolis, a city built by the emperor Adrian, and named from his favourite Antinous, who was drowned in the Nile. These remains, which are entirely Roman, are supposed to occupy the site of a still more ancient city, named Besa, famed for its oracle, and mentioned by Abulfeda iinder the name of Ansina, or Ansineh, by which the place is still sometimes designated. In the times of Roman dominion, Antinoe was the capital of a province, named the Antinoite; and under the Christian emperors, the metropolis of an episcopal see. Little of it now remains except its theatre, the substructure of various buildings, and the hippodrome without the walls. The circuit is said to have been 3 or 4 m., the present dimensions being 6000 ft. by 3400. The direction of the principal streets, which were broad and spa cious, with a colonnade on each side, may still be traced. Other existing monuments are the remains of various temples, and four monumental columns bearing an inscription to 1 Good Fortune, and the date of the 14th year of Marcus Aurelius. All that consisted of limestone has been burnt for mortar by the Turks, or employed by them in the con struction of modern buildings. Without the walls, numerous relics of antiquity are to be met with, the most remarkable of which is a ruinous edifice on the summit of a hill, said to have been used as a convent by the Christians, and named, from the circumstance, Dayr e Deck, or Convent of the Cock." (Wilkinson s Modern Egypt.; Voy. Due dc liaguse.) ABABDEH,thename of an extensive desert, Upper Egypt, and of a number of tribes by which it is inhabited. The Abab- dch desert, or desert of the Thebaid, lies between the Red Sea and the valley of the Nile, and extends from the Kossier and Coptos road, lat.26 N., into Nubia, beyond the tropic of Cancer, and bounds with the Begga, or country of the Bisharee tribes. It is traversed in various directions by roads, both ancient and modern, contains numerous towns and villages, is of some note in point of geological and mineral productions, and is remarkable for its architectural remains, and for the number of hieroglyphical inscriptions found upon the rocks. The i principal and most interesting road is that called the Derb e Russafa, about 248 m. long, which runs diagonally across the desert from Coptos to Berenice, and passes through eight Ronutu ABACAXIS stations, each supplied with large wells and cisterns, for the use of the inhabitants and travellers. The most noted geolo gical production of this tract of country is the breccia verde, or green breccia, made by the ancients into many useful and ornamental articles, of which the sarcophagus of Alexander in the British Museum is a specimen. Emeralds and gold have been found in various parts. Basanitc, or Lydian stone, was formerly quarried in the mountain now known by the name Om Kerrebeh. The Ababdehs who inhabit this desert are nomadic tribes, the principal of which are the Gawaleeh, the Fokara, the Aboodeein, and the Ashahab. They are supposed to be the aborigines of the country, to have come from Sbayd, or Esbayd, and to be Arabs only in habit. Though speaking the Arabic language, their peculiar pronunciation, dark com plexion, and the difference of their whole outward appearance, readily distinguish them from the genuine Arabs. They have long hair, like the Nubians, whom, in many other respects, they resemble. Their arms, also, are the same as those used in Nubia, consisting of sword, spear, small knife, and target, which they prefer to firearms, and with which they fight, from the backs of camels, almost in a state of nudity. They live in mat huts, chiefly on the borders of the great valley of the Nile. They are well known for the excellency of their camels and dromedaries, and, though scarcely deemed of a trustworthy character, are employed in escorting the caravans which cross the desert from Sennaar. (Wilkinson s Modern Egypt.) ABACAXIS, a river, Brazil, prov. Para, rising about lat. 6 30 S. ; Ion. 58 35 W. ; takes a N. course, passes through lake Guaribas, and falls into the Furo, or Mauhe, an affluent of the Amazon, lat. 4 S. ; Ion. 58 30 W. ABACO (GREAT and LITTLE), two of the Bahama Islands ; the larger 86 m. long, and about 15 broad; the smaller 28 m. long, and 4 to 5 broad. They lie between Ion. 77 and 78 W., and lat. 25 50 and 26 55 N. Area, 225 sq. m., of which 135,076 acres are waste. Three schools have been established here by the Board of Education, appointed under the Act to establish a system of popular education and training in the Bahama Islands. These schools were attended, in 1847, by 226 pupils, composed of an equal number of boys and girls. Pop. 1900. ABAD. 1, A vil. Beloochistan, on the right bank of the Naree, or Nari, 22 m. S.E. by E. Gundava; lat. 28 17 N.; Ion. 67 49 E. 2, A vil. Sinde, between Shikarpoor and Sukkur; lat. 27 45 N. ; Ion. 68 50 E. 3, A tii. Persia, prov. Far.-jstan, E.S.E. Shiraz. ABADEH, a tn. Persia, prov. Fars, 116m. N. Shiraz, and 115 S.S.E. Ispahan. It is enclosed by dilapidated walls, and defended by a square fortress, containing almost all the population. It suffered much during the wars of the succes sion to the Persian throne in the 18th century, and was the residence of the last prince of the house of Suffee, suffered to exist there by Kureem Khan, who died in 1779. The gardens around Abadeh supply Shiraz with delicious fruit. Pop. about 5000. ABAUIOTTES, a tribe in the island of Candia, about 4000 in number, and occupying about 20 small villages. They are the descendants of the Saracens, who took posses sion of Candia in 823. They are a suspicious and revengeful race, and much inclined to a predatory life, to which they are also forced by the oppression of the Turks and Greeks. ABAE l E, a vil. Brazil, prov. of, and 40 m. S.W. Para, on the right bank of the estuary of the Kio Para, and on the island formed by the mouth of the Kio Tocantins, and the rivers Moju and Iguara. The soil in the vicinity is excellent, but it is badly cultivated. (Die. Geo. Imp. Brazil.) ABA I, or ABAY, the Nile of Bruce, principal tributary of the Bahr-el-Azrek, or Blue Kiver, one of the head streams of the Nile. Its sources are in a swampy meadow, near mount Giesk, in the district of Sdkkata, from whence it takes a cir cular direction round the peninsula of Gojam, passing through lake Dembea, and falling into the Bahr-el-Azrck, in about 11 N. lat. See AZUEK (BAUR-EL-), and NILE. ABAI, a small seaport near the N.W. point of Borneo, about lat. 6 21 N. ; Ion. 116 30 E. The depth of the har bour will not, at high water, admit vessels drawing more than 12 ft. ABAINVILLE, a vil. France, dep. Meuse, beautifully Htuated on the Ornain, and celebrated for its iron works, and AT, AM AY for the excellence of its manufactures in that metal. There are altogether between 600 and 700 individuals employed in these works, and from 3000 to 4000 tons of iron are manufac tured annually. ABAITE, a considerable river, Brazil, prov. Minas Geraes, rising in the Serra da Mata da Corda, and flowing into the San Francisco, after a course of about 135 m. from S.W. to N.E. In this river was accidentally discovered, in 1796, the largest diamond ever found in Brazil, weighing of an ounce troy. It was found by three men under sen tence of perpetual banishment, while searching for gold. On presenting this valuable gem to the then viceroy, they were pardoned and rewarded. The river was afterwards worked at different periods by the government, but with indifferent success. The works were ultimately abandoned to private adventurers. ABAKANE, a large river, S. Siberia, having its sources in the Altai mountains, gov. Yeniseisk. It is formed by the junction of two streams, called, respectively, the Great and Little Abakane, which, rising from 20 to 30m. apart, unite at lat. 52 23 N.; Ion. 88 45 E.; whence the river flows in a N.E. direction till it falls into the Yenisei at Mardachi, about 7 m. W. by N. Minousinsk, lat. 53 54 N.; Ion. 91 13 E. The length of the stream, from the confluence of the Great and Little Aba kane, until it joins the Yenisei, is about 174 m. For about 80 m. of the latter part of this course it has an average breadth of about 1 in., and is throughout dotted with islands, which increase in number towards its junction with the Yenisei. The whole length of the river, from its sources, taking the Great Abakane as the original stream, is, according to Tchihatcheff, who calls it a beautiful river, 217 m. The sources of this branch are two small lakes; its earlier career is described by the writer just named as extremely impetuous, its channel nar row and rocky, and the scenery around wild and picturesque. Tchihatchoff made an attempt to explore the sources of the Little Abakane also, but was compelled to abandon the enter prise, in consequence of the vast and dangerous accumulations of snow, which every moment threatened himself and his party with destruction. 1 laving, however, subsequently attained an eminence, which commanded a view of the sources of the stream, he found that these, as in the case of the Great Aba kane, were a number of small lakes situated in a marshy plateau, in the midst of a labyrinth of mountains. (Tchiha tcheff, Voyage dans V Altai Oriental.) ABAKANSK, a Cossack military station, Siberia, gov. Yeniseisk, on the right bank of the Abakane, at a bend of that river, 94 m. S.W. Minousinsk; lat. 52 52 N. ; Ion. 89 46 E. It consists of about 40 houses of wood, inhabited by Cossacks, and a number of yurts, or huts, occupied by a colony of Sagai, a distinct race from the Kal mucks, who, however, are now beginning to construct habita tions after the Russian fashion. It is enlivened by several wooden steeples, and is flanked on the W. by a range of coni cal mountains. The country around is very beautiful, but the soil is unfavourable to agriculture, although the climate is comparatively mild. During three days that Tchihatcheff remained here in the month of July, the temperature rose to 110 Fah., and in the shade to 76; the former being 30 higher than is usually experienced in England. In the vici nity of this station, as throughout the whole of S. Siberia, there are numerous tumuli, called by the Tartars the tombs of the Cathayans, or Si-Katei, in which ornaments of gold ! and other metals have been found. Gigantic human statues, I from 7 to 9 ft. high, covered with hieroglyphics, are also met with here. There is another station of the same name on a sandy flat on the right bank of the Yenisei, 39 m. N. from Minousinsk, where numerous relics of antiquity are also found, consisting of ancient tombs and Mongolian inscriptions. It is reputed to be the mildest locality in Siberia, the summer being sufficiently warm to ripen water-melons and tobacco. ABANCAY, a tn. Peru, cap. dist. or prov. of sime name. It is situated in a spacious valley, on the right bank of the river Abancay, here crossed by one of the largest bridges in the kingdom, about 70 m. W. by S. Cuzco, and 300 m. E.S.E. Lima; lat. 13 37 S. : Ion. 73 W. It has a convent of the order of St. Dominic, and several sugar works and refineries. The district is about 60 m. in length from E. to W., and 40 in breadth from N. to S. The tem perature is mild, and the soil fertile, producing wheat, maize, ABANILLA ABBEVILLE and other grain in abundance ; but sugar is the staple produc tion, and is here so well refined as to equal in whiteness the finest sugars of Europe. Hemp is also cultivated, and con siderable numbers of horned cattle are reared. The pop. of the town estimated at 5000. ABANILLA, a tri. Spain, prov. of, and 16 m. N.N.E. Murcia, on an incline at the foot of some rocky hills. It is divided into an upper and a lower town ; the former chiefly consisting of ruins, and including the old parish church and the ruins of a castle ; the latter comprising a number of good streets, and a square, in which are situated a fountain, granary, spacious courthouses, the school, and the new prison. There are, besides, an old prison, a second church, several chapels, a cemetery, and some flour and oilmills. In the vicinity, barley, maize, olives, vines, figs, almonds, and prunes are cultivated, and a few sheep and goats are reared. The inhabi tants, besides agriculture, are chiefly employed in manufac turing charcoal, esparto mats, and home-made linen. Pop. 4G28. (Madoz.) ABANO, a tn. Venetian Lombardy, district of, and 5 m. S.W. Padua, famous for its sulphureous waters and mud baths, much resorted to in chronic cutaneous diseases, gout, &c. As sulphureous waters, they are the hottest in Europe, having a temperature of 167 187 Fah., and contain common salt, sulphuric acid, natron, and magnesia. Abano was known to the Romans under the name of Aqua? Aponi or Aquae Patavinae, and some remains of Roman baths were discovered at it the end of last century. It is the birthplace of Titus Livius, and of the celebrated physician, Pietro d Abano, professor iu the university of Padua, who was condemned to death for sorcery, but died before the sentence was put into execution, A.D. 1312. Pop. 3000. ABAKAN, or ALBARAN, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 22 m. N.\V. Murcia, at the foot of a mountain on the left bank of the Segura. It has a square, in which are the courthouses, the dingy unhealthy prison, two schools, and the parish church. The inhabitants are engaged in agriculture, and as muleteers ; they manufacture esparto mats and home-made linen, and have some oilmills. Pop. 2455. (Madoz.) ABAKAN, a small tn. Russian Armenia, on the S. slope of the Alaghes mountains, about 30 m. N W. Erivan. It lies near the left bank of a considerable stream of the same name, which rises in Alaghes mountains, and flows towards the Aras, but which it, in summer time, never reaches, all its waters being drawn off by the Armenians for the purposes of irri gation. ABATZKAYA, or ABATZKOE, a tn. Siberia, gov. To bolsk, on the left bank of the Ishim, and 40 m. E. from the town of that name. Pop. about 2000. ABAUJVAR, a co. or district, Upper Hungary, W. the Theiss, cap. Kaschau, on the Hernad ; area, 832 geo. sq. m. It is a fertile grain and grazing district, producing, likewise, excellent fruit and grapes, from the latter of which, the cele brated Tokay wine is made. Abaujvar also yields metals, and precious stones, mineral waters, and salt. Pop. 123,938. (Raffelsperger.) ABB, a tn. Arabia, in the Djebel, or mountainous district of Yemen; 77 m. N.E. Mocha, and 104 m. N.W. Aden; lat. 13 59 N.; Ion. 44 35 E. It is enclosed by a strong wall, and has several mosques, paved streets, and about 800 houses built of stone. Water is supplied to it, by means of an aque duct, from the high mountain of Baadan in the neighbourhood. The surrounding country is well watered and fertile. Pop. supposed to be between 4000 and 5000. ABB S HEAD (ST.), a lofty promontory or headland, having the appearance of an island, on the E. coast of Scot land, co. Berwick, llm. N.W. town of that name, and 15 m. S.E. Dunbar ; lat. 55 55 N. ; Ion. 2 8 W. (n.). There is deep water close by the point, and a little way from it, 30 and 40 fathoms. The adjacent shore is rocky. The E. extremity of the height was occupied by a Roman station, and the W., half a mile distant, by a British stronghold. ABTJADIA, a small tn. Brazil, prov. Bahia, 50 m. S.W. Seregipe, upon the Ariguitiba, 15 m. from the sea. It has a school, and a harbour accessible to coasters, and exports sugar, cotton, tobacco, and mandioc flour. Pop. of town and neigh bourhood, 1200. ABBADIA SAN SALVADORE, a tn. and commune, Italy, in Tuscany, prov. Grossetto, diocese of, and 17. m. S.W. Chiusi, on an elevated plain at the side of the trachyte mount, Amiata, which rises to the height of 5300 ft. above the sea level. The town is surrounded by a wall, entered by gates, and comprises a small square, four principal parallel streets, and an Episcopal church. On the N., without the walls, is the abbey of San Salvadore, from which the town derives its name. The vicinity is fertile, being watered by the river Paglia, and the rivulets Pagliuola and Albineta, all of which take their rise in mount Amiata. Pop. in 1845, including the commune, 4295. (Dizio. Univ. Italia.) ABBA-SEEN. See ABO SIN. ABBAS -ABAD, the name of two villages, Persia: 1, A vil. and fort, prov. Khorasan, 385 m. N.E. Ispahan, and 170 m. W. Mushed, lat. 36 23 N.; Ion. 56 22 E.; on the highroad from the latter city to Teheran, situated in a dreary desert. The village and caravanserai were erected by Shah Abbas the Great, for the benefit of caravans crossing the desert. There being only one spring here, no means of irrigation exist, and the inhabitants are often forced to traverse the desert to obtain a supply of provisions for themselves and the caravans. Besides being exempted from taxes, they derive considerable profit from selling provisions to travellers, and are more clean and comfortable, both in their houses and dress, than the generality of the subjects of Persia. 2, A small tn. and fort in the frontier prov. of Azerbijan, situated upon the river Aras. It contains an old Armenian church, now used as a powder magazine. This Abbas-abad was treacherously surrendered to the Russians in the war of 1827. ABBAZACCA, a tn. Western Africa, on the left bank of the Quorra, about 48 m. below the junction of the Chadda with that river, and about 276 m. from the sea; lat. 7 10 N.; Ion. 8 15 E. The banks of the Quorra are very low for upwards of 20 m. before reaching Abbazacca, and are destitute of towns and villages ; but both are numerous below it. For the first time, say the Landers, on reaching Abbazacca, since leaving Jenna, in Yarriba (about 345 m. W.), we beheld the graceful cocoa-nut tree, and heard the mellow whistling of gray parrots. At a place called Damuggoo, 17 m. further down the Quorra, the natives have English muskets, and are expert in the use of firearms. ABBEOKUTA, or ABBEKUTA, a large tn., W. Africa, cap. of the prov. of Egba, kingdom of Yoruba, or Yarribah, 60 m. N.E. Badagray in the bight of Benin. It is built on granite hills of moderate elevation, the highest not exceeding 500 ft. Its streets are narrow and irregular. Its population is composed of the inhabitants of a number of towns and vil lages, which were destroyed during a war that took place in 1817; and it is since that period that Abbeokuta has become the important place it now is, being about 2 m. long, and nearly as broad, with a pop. of 50,000. The Rev. Henry Townsend states, in his evidence before the Select Committee on the Slave-trade, that the inhabitants of this town have a regular government, with a prince or chief at its head, and that their civilization is better than what is generally believed to exist in Africa. The town is amply supplied with provi sions of every kind, including sheep, goats, cows, fowls, and pigeons. The country around is productive and compara tively well cultivated, yielding abundant crops of yams, Indian corn, and various sorts of beans. Cotton, sugar, ginger, and indigo are also grown for home consumption. The people gladly work for wages, the latter being generally four strings of cowries, or between 4d. and 5d. a day. They are fond of peaceful pursuits, such as cultivating the ground, trading, &c. ; and, under more favourable political conditions, could hardly fail to become prosperous and happy. They manufacture leather of various kinds, and make numerous articles in iron, such as stirrups, clasp knives, hoes, and bill hooks. Their domestic slaves, of whom there are many, are treated with such uniform kindness, that it is impossible to distinguish a slave from a free man. The heat here is very great, averaging, in hot weather, about 85 or 86 ; the highest point is about 92 or 93. (Parl. Paper.) ABBERLEY, a par. England, co. Worcester; area, 2390 ac.; 6 m. S.W. Bewdley. Pop. in 1841, 559. ABBERTON, a par. England, co. Essex ; area, 1030 ac. Pop. in 1841, 248. There is another par. of this name, co. Worcester; area, 1050 ac. ; on a branch of the Avon. Pop. in 1841, 81. ABBEVILLE, a large fortified tn. and river port, ABBEVILLE ABBIATE-GRASSO France, dep. Somme, cap. arrond. of same name, 120 m. by several distilleries, tanneries, and flour and sawmills. Pop. in rail, N.N.W. Paris, situated in an agreeable and fertile valley 1840, 29,351 ; composed of whites, 13,880; slaves, 15,148 ; on the river Somme, which divides the town into three por- free coloured, 323. 2, A post vil., cap. of above district, lions, the central and most important one being on an island, j 97 m. W. by N. Columbia, on a branch of Little river. It The houses are mostly built of brick, a few are of stone, inter- j has a courthouse, jail, il, ;uid magazine. 3, A post vil. 111 lulled with some picturesque old structures of wood. Some . in Alabama, cap. of Henry co., 211 in. S.E. Tuscaloosa. 01 the streets are broad, but the most of them are narrow, | ABBEY, the name, with and without affixes, of a number of small towns, townships, villages, baronies, parishes, and other places, in England, Scotland, and Ireland. Those in ENGLAND are: 1, Abbey Dore, or Dor c Abbey, par. Hereford; 5790 ac. Pop. 542. 2, par. Wilts; 40 ac. Pop. 131. 3, Abbey Holm, township, par. Holm C ul tram, Cumberland, named from an abbey founded there in 1 150, by Henry, prince of Cumberland, son of David 1., king of Scot land. 4, Abbey Milton, or Middleton, tnship., Dorset. 5, Ab bey Part:, hamlet, Bucks. 6, Abbey Routon, vil., Stafford. 7, Abbey Street, tnship., Cumberland, St. Mary s par. Carlisle. In SCOTLAND: I, A small vil., co. of, and about 1 m. E. Haddington, and 18 m. E. Edinburgh. It is remarkable only for its historical associations. Here, in 1178, Countess Ada of Northumberland, mother of Malcolm IV. and William the Lion, kings of Scotland, founded and richly endowed a convent or priory of Cistertian nuns; and here, on July 7, 1548, the Parliament of Scotland was convened, and gave consent to the marriage of Queen Mary to the Dauphin of France. 2, A vil., co. Stirling, about \ m. N.E. Stirling. It derives its name from Cambuskenneth Abbey, which is close by. It is prettily situated, and is chiefly inhabited by weavers. 3, Abbey St. Dalhan s, par., co. Berwick, N. part ; area, 5000 ac. ; con tains the ruins of a nunnery dedicated to St. Bathan. Pop. in 1841, 146. In IRELAND: 1, Abbey, or Corcomroe Abbey, a par. and vil., co. Clare, on the shores of the harbour of Burren, bay of Galway, and directly opposite the town of the latter name, 118 m. S.W. Dublin, and 40 m. N.W. Limerick. The ruins of the abbey are extensive, and form an interesting feature in the landscape. Pop. of par. in 1841, 1442. 2, Abbey, or Innislonnngh, a par. partly in the co. Waterford, and partly in that of Tipperary ; 9378 ac. Pop. in 1841, 4764. 3, Abbey Knockmoy, co. Galway; 12,386 ac.; contains ruins of old abbey, in which are curious fresco illustrations of ancient Irish costumes. Pop. in 1841, 3846. 4, Abbeyfeale, crooked, dirtv. and badly paved, rendering the pleasant par. and vil., CO. Limerick; 18,l50ac. Pop. in 1841, 5492. VVI.KIiAN. AIllir.VU.I.E. ! u-ooded promenades on the ramparts all the more acceptabl The principal buildings are the Tour de Beffroi, the barracks, the foundling hospital, and the church of St. Vulfrari. The magnificent W. front, and part of the nave of this last-named edifice, were built during the reign of Louis XII., under the care of Cardinal George d Amboise, but the original design was never completed ; the facade is in the flamboyant style, covered with the richest tracery, and the niches filled with statues of saints attired in singular costumes. Abbeville is the seat of courts of primary jurisdiction, and of a court of com merce ; and it has a chamber of commerce, a royal society of sciences and belles-lettres, a commercial college, and a public library of 15,000 volumes. The manufactures of the town are considerable, employing 13,000 workers, and amounting annually to 520,000. They consist chiefly of cloth, serges, Utrecht velvets, calicoes, muslins, linen and woollen thread, packthread, which is famed, sailcloth, cordage, soap, lamp- nt pa e. 5, Abbeygormagan, par., co. Galway; 11,750 ac. Pop. 1841, 2930. 6, Abbey- Jer point, par., co. Kilkenny; 1008 ac.; contains ruins of an ancient abbey, founded in 1180. Pop. in 1841, 375. 7, Abbeylara, par. and vil., co. Longford; 9150 ac. Pop. in 1841, 3084. 8, Albeymalwn, par., co. Cork; 4482 ac. ; contains ruins of an ancient abbey of same name, founded by Bernardine monks. Pop. in 1841, 3261. 9, Abbeyshrule, par. and vil., co. Longford; 2340 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1283. 10, Abbey strowry, par., co. Cork; 9396 ac. ; contains ruins of an ancient abbey, in which are some inter esting monuments. Pop. in 1841, 6225. 11, Abbeydarig, vil., co. Longford. 12, Abbei/dorney, vil., co. Kerry, on the river Brick, 5 m. E. by N. Tralee. Pop. in 1841, 418. 13, Abbey-Leix, market tn. and par. Queen s co., near the left bank of the Nore, 9 m. S.S. W. Maryborough, and 53 m. S.W. Dublin. It has a very handsome church, It. catholic chapel, three schools, almshouses, market and session-houses, prison, black, &c. Bleaching, dyeing, tanning, paper making, and [ and infirmary, wiih two woollen manufactories, a large worsted boat building are carried on. Abbeville, from its advan- im ll, and a boulting mill. It has six annual fairs. Pop. of tageous position on the Somme, here a wide river, is a place par. in 1841,6719, of which the town comprises 1020. 14, of some commerce, produce, from a considerable distance | Abbeysidc, a vil. and suburb of the burgh of Dungarvon, co. inland, being brought to it for export. At high water, Waterford. It extends along the N.E. side of Dungarvon vessels of 100 to 150 tons can reach the harbour, and the number which annually frequent the port is about 350. The, principal articles of traffic, besides the manufactures already alluded to, arc grain, oil seeds, lucerne, wine, brandy, cider, oil, &c. Abbeville, anciently Abbatis Villa, or Alba Villas, harbour, and derives its name from the remains of an ancient Augustinian abbey, founded in the 13th century. ABBIATE-GKASSO (commonly BIAORASSO), a consid erable tn. and commune, Venetian Lombardy, cap. district of same name, prov. of, and 20 m. N.W. Pavia, on the grand canal di Bereguardo, which runs from that city to Sesto, and near the left bank of the Tecino. It is well built and was formerly cap. of the old county of Ponthieu, and it wa.< frequently an object of contention during the wars between France and England. Pop. in 1846, 17,035. (Dic.de la \ clean, surrounded by a wall, and comprises three churches, France.) j two chapels, two infirmaries, seven oratories, and municipal ABBEVILLE. 1, A well-watered and fertile district of j buildings. The manufacture of baize, cloth, silk, bricks, the U. States, in the W. part of S. Carolina, between the rivers , candles, &c., is carried on, and an annual cattle fair is held in Savannah and Saluda; area about 1000 sq. m. Wheat, rye, oats, Indian corn, and tobacco are grown, and sheep, cattle, pigs, and silkworms are reared. The district also possesses July. Pop. 0803. The district, situated in a remarkably fertile and well-irrigated plain, contains twenty-two communes, and produces grain, grapes, mulberries, and other fruits; ABBITIBBE ABER vegetables of every kind, and of the best quality, abound ; and on the rich pasture lands bordering the Tecino, numerous cattle are reared. Excellent butter is made, and much care is bestowed on the cultivation of silkworms. Pop. 35,338. ABBITIBBE, a lake of Upper Canada, 45 m. long, great est breadth 18 m. The Hudson s Bay Company have a trading port at its S.E. extremity, for the purchase of furs and peltries; lat. 49 N.; Ion. 78 52 W. It contains a number of small islands, and gives name to a tribe of Indians who chiefly reside near it. Abbitibbe is also the name of a river issuing from the lake, which, after a course of above 240 m. S.E. to N.W., unites with the Moose river, and falls into James Bay, in the S. part of Hudson s Bay. In the estuary lies Moose fort. ABBO, a name by itself, and, with prefixes, of four small towns in Abyssinia, kingdom Amhara, districts Maitsha and Goutto, S. W. from lake Dembea ; all situated near the sources of the Abai, and within a few miles of each other; the most S. Abbo being about 25 m. from the most N. Borkon Abbo ; and the two intermediate towns, Abbo, and Welled Abbo, being only 7 or 8 m. apart. ABBOT S LANGLEY, a vil. and par. England, co. Hertford. The vil. lies about 21 m. N. London, a little to the W. of the mainroad to St. Alban s. It is situated on a high level, and consists of one principal street. The houses are small, and most of them old. The church is an ancient building, in the Elizabethan style of architecture, and contains some curious antique monuments. There are also two small dissenting chapels, and a boys , girls , and infants school. The village is not lighted, but is well supplied with water. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in agricultural pursuits. There has been recently established here an interesting insti tution, called the Booksellers Retreat, consisting of seven commodious cottages belonging to the Booksellers Provident Society, and appropriated to their decayed members. There are some large paper mills in the parish. Near the centre of the parish is the station on the London and North-western Kail way, called the King s Langley station. Area of par. 51UO acres. Pop. of vil. and par., including BEDMONT, 2115. ABBOTS, the name, with various affixes, of several parishes in England: 1, Abbots-Anne, a par., co. Hants; area, 3100 ac.; 2 m. W. Andovev. Pop. in 1841, 619. 2, Abbots- Bickington, or Hickington- Abbots, a par., co. Devon; area, 1510ac. ; quarries of blue building-stone, limestone, and marble. Pop. in 1841, 75. 3, Abbotsbury, a par., co. Dorset; area, 4050 ac. ; ruins of Benedictine Abbey ; large annual sheep fair. Pop. in 1841, 1,005. 4, Abbots- Ker swell, a par., co. Devon ; area, 1670ac. ; l^m. S. Newton Abbots ; monastery of Cluniac monks. Pop. in 1841, 433. 5, Abbotsham, a par., co. Devon; area, 2090 ac.; 2 m. W. Bideford. Pop. in 1841, 414. 6, Abbots-Leigh, a, par., co. Somerset; area, 2150 ac. Pop. in 1841, 366. 7, Abbotsley, or Abbots-Leigh, a par., co. Huntingdon ; area, 2110 ac. Pop. in 1841, 443. 8, Abbots-Morton, a par., co. Worcester; area, 1420ac. ; on the Birmingham and Gloucester Railway. Pop. in 1841, 234. 9, Abbotstom, a par., co. Hants ; 2 m. New Alresford. Pop. in 1841, 325. ABBOTSHALL, a par. and vil. Scotland, co. Fife, on the coast of the Frith of Forth; area, 4026ac. Pop. in 1841, 4811. ABCHERON, a peninsular district of Russia, Trans-Cau casian, prov. Daghestan, on the W. coast of the Caspian Sea. 6 ec APCIIEROX. ABCOUDE, a vil. Holland, prov. of, and 18 m. N.W. Utrecht, on the left bank of the Vecht. It has a large beautiful Calvinistic church, a R. catholic church, and a school. The horse market, held here the last Thursday of August, is celebrated. Pop. about 1000. (Van dor Aa.) ABDA, a prov. Morocco, bounded N. by the prov. of Duquclla, E. by that of Morocco, S. by that of Shedma, and W. by the Atlantic. We have hardly any knowledge of the interior, further than that its N. portion consists of a series of extensive steppes or plains. On the coast, cape Cantin, the N. limit of the province, rises precipitously, 211 ft. above the sea. About one half of the coast line S. of cape Cantin consists of white cliffs rising above a sandy beach, the remainder is composed of sand hills 150 to 200 ft. high. Inland from this portion of the coast, extends a ridge of sandy-looking hills covered with brushwood ; the whole coast being sandy, barren, and nearly destitute of good water ; but portions of the interior are said to be fertile and well cultivated. (Jour. Geog. Soc., vol. vi.) ABD-AL-CURIA, or ABD-DL-KOOHY, properly ABDU-T,- KURI, a small rugged isl., coast of Soumali in E. Africa, between cape Guardafui (Kas Asser) and the isl. of Socotra, in lat. 1 1 55 N. ; Ion. 52 30 E. It is about 18 m. long, E. to W., but very narrow ; and near its centre are two hills, which give it the appearance of two islands when seen from a distance. Wood and water are scarce, and the inhabitants few. ABD ASTON, or ADD ASTON, a par. and township, Eng land, co. Stafford; area, 5330 ac.; 2 m. N. from the Birming ham and Liverpool Canal. Pop. in 1841, 610. ABDEH, or ANJEH, tht ruins of an ancient city, sup posed to be those of Eboda, in Arabia Petraea, 70 m. S. W. by S. Jerusalem, and 210 m. E.N.E. Cairo; lat. 30 55 N.; Ion. 34 35 E. The ruins consist of the remains of numerous houses, the walls of a large Greek church, and an extensive fortress, both situated on a long hill, or ridge, overlooking a wide plain. Connected with the fortress are cisterns, and deep wells, walled up with good masonry. The ruins are surrounded by traces of ancient cultivation. ABD-EL-GEDYK, an isl. in the river Nile, in Upper Egypt, to the S.E. of Girgeh, about 6 m. long. ABDIE, a par. Scotland, co. Fife; N.W. part of the co. on the Frith of Tay ; area, about 7624 ac. ; contains several lakes ; the largest, Lindores, is surrounded with beautiful scenery. Pop. in 1841, 1508. A BOON, a par. England, co. Salop ; area, 710 ac. Pop. in 1841, 155. ABD-UL-KOORY. See ABD-AL-CUKIA. ABDU-L-KURI, or PALINURUS SHOAL, is the name of a dangerous reef of rock and coral, lying off the S. coast of Arabia, in lat. 12 12 30" N- i and Ion. 52 11 E. (R.), dis covered by Capt. Haines so lately as 1835. It extends 1850 yds. from N.N.E. to S.S.W., with a breadth of 300 to 600 yds. ; its highest part, at the time of its discovery, being a pointed rock, which was only 17 ft. below the surface. It is 8 m. distant from the nearest land, bearing N. by W. ; the soundings in its neighbourhood vary suddenly, and are not to be relied on. Between the shoal and the shore there is a depth of 120 fathoms, but the safest navigation is to seaward. (Jour. Geog. Soc.} ABELA. See ABILA. ABENBERG, a small rn. Bavaria, in Middle Franconia, 15 m. S. W. Niirnberg. It has two churches and a poorhouse, and its inhabitants are engaged in needle making, and in cul tivating hops. Pop. 1133. ABENSBERG, a tn. Lower Bavaria, 18 m. S.W. Ratis- bon, cap. of district of same name, on the right bank of the Abens, here crossed by a bridge. It is the seat of a court of justice (landgericht) , and has two churches and a castle, the former residence of the counts of Abensberg. It has manufactures of cloth and other woollen fabrics, and of earthenware. Hops are cultivated in the vicinity, and there are several breweries in the town. There is a mineral well in the neighbourhood, the waters of which, containing iron, salt, and sulphur, are used both internally and externally for cutaneous diseases, gout, &c. The Austrians, under the Archduke Louis and General Ililler, were defeated here by Napoleon, who took 18,000 prisoners, on April 20, 1809. Pop. 1210. The district has an area of 112 geo. sq. m., and a pop. of 17,000. (Huhn.) ABER, the name, with various affixes, of several parishes and villages in Scotland and Wales, and of a parish and town ship in England. Those in SCOTLAND are: 1, Abercliirder, a vil. and par. Marnoch, co. Banff; 5 m. N.E. Turiff. Pop. in 1841, 819. 2, Abercorn, a par. and vil., co. Linlithgow, on the shore of the Frith of Forth; area, 4496 ac. There are some remains of Roman forts in this par. The vil. is beautifully situated, 10 m. W.N.W. Edinburgh. Pop. in 1841, of par. and vil., 2146. 3, Abercrombie, a par., co. Fife. (See MOSANCE, ST.) 4, Aberilulyie, a par., co. Perth ; area, 2800 ac. ; abounds in freestone; proprietor, Earl of Kinnoul. Battle of Duplin fought in this par., Aug. 12, 1332. Pop. in 1841 , 360. 5, Aberlody, a vil., par., and bay, co. Haddington, N.W. coast. The par. contains about 4000 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1050. 6, Aberlemno, a par. and vil., co. Forfar; 2 m. AI5EE ABERDEEN S.S.W. nrechin; 6m. by 5; contains two antique obelisks. Pop. 1023. 7, Aberloin; par and vil. Banff, S.E. bank Spey, 7 ra. by 4J. Pop. 1352. 8, Abernyte, par. Perth; 2513 ac. Pop. 280. (See also ABERUOUR.) In WALES: l,Abcredow, par. Radnor, on the Eclco; with the ruins of Llewelyn-ap-Griffith s castle. Pop. 345. 2, Abcrerch, par. Carnarvon, near the mouth of the river Ercli. I op. 1013. 3, Aberhiifisp, par. Montgomery, 3 in. W. by N. Newtown. Pop. 535. 4, Abcrnant, par. and township, Carmarthen, near river Cywyn. Pop. 2511. 5, Aber-Port/i, par. Cardigan, on Cardigan Bay. Herring fishing is carried on to a limited extent. Pop. 496. 6, Abenvheeler, a town ship and vil. Denbigh, par. Bedfary. Pop., par. 534; vil. 114. 7, Aberi/scir, par. Brecon. Pop. 117. In ENGLAND: Aberford, a par. and township, W. Riding, co. York; area, 3820 ac. Coal, lime, and fine white building- stone, are wrought. Pop. 1071. Sec ABEUFORD. ABER, or ABERGWNGREGYN, a vil. and par. Wales, co. Carnarvon, hund. Ucheff, E. side of the Menai Strait, 4 m. E. Bangor. The village, pleasantly situated at the mouth of a small river, contains a church, places of worship for Independents and Wesleyan Methodists, and several schools. The ancient Welsh princes had temporary resi dences here. Pop. of par. in 1841, 556. ABERAERON, a nourishing little seaport tn. Wales, co. and 20 m. S.E. Cardigan, at the mouth of the Aeron. The houses are all on a uniform plan, and are built of stone and Carnarvon slate. The town is well supplied with water, and is improving. It has an elegant church, chapels for Inde pendents, Calvinistic Methodists, and Wesleyans ; a town- hall, in the Grecian style; union workhouse, and three schools. Ship-building is carried on ; large quantities of corn, butter, and lead ore, are exported; and limestone, culm, and American timber, imported. The inhabitants are chiefly seafaring people and agriculturists, and are comfortable. There are some fine public walks in the vicinity. Pop. in 1841, 534. ABERAVON, or ABERAFAN, a bor. and par. Wales, co. Glamorgan, at the mouth of the Avon, and on the E. side of Swansea Bay, 8 m. E. from the town of that name. The borough, which has increased rapidly of late years, and has been also considerably improved, is situated on a plain at the foot of a mountain, and consists chiefly of two irregular streets ; houses mostly of recent erection, and built of stone obtained in the neighbourhood : indifferently supplied with water. It has an established church, six chapels, a townhall, a national and three private unendowed schools; a mechanics institute, and Bible and church missionary societies. The exports consist principally of copper, tinned plate, wrought iron, coals, cinders, patent fuel, chemicals, and yellow metal, chiefly raised or manufactured within the limits of the borough. Of these, about 58,566 tons are exported annually. The in habitants are mostly employed in mining, and the manufacture of metals, and are generally in tolerably comfortable circum stances. Aberavon is one of the boroughs of the Swansea district which, in 1848, had 1300 registered electors. Pop. of par. in 1849, 1947; of bor. 5490. ABERBROTIK )( K, ABERBUOTHWICK. Sec ARBROATH. ABERCONWAY. See COXWAY. ABERCROMBIE, a township, Lower Canada, co. Terre- bonne, district of, and 39 m. N.W. Montreal. It has manu factures of potash and maple sugar, with saw-mills. ABERCROMBIE, a small river, New South Wales, one of the head streams of the river Lachlan, an affluent of the Murrumbidjee, and with the latter falling into the Murray. The Abercrombie rises among the Blue Mountains, and unites with the Narrawa about lat. 34 S ; Ion. 149 E., from which point the stream takes the name of the Lachlan river. ABERDARE, or ABEKUAU, a vil. and par. S. Wales, co. Glamorgan, part of the bor. of Merthyr-Tydvil. It is pleasantly situated on the Dar, 4 m. S.W. by W. Merthyr- Tydvil, has an ancient church, with two beautiful new ones now (1852) erecting; places of worship for Baptists, Inde pendents, Unitarians, and different sections of Methodists, a national, and other schools. The parish abounds with coal and iron, and contains three extensive iron works, the pro duce of which is shipped at Cardiff, Neath, and Swansea. In 1839, the Messrs. Wayne, of the Gadly s Iron-works, judging from the great supply of steam coal which the valley was capable of producing, sunk the first pit for exportation. Their example was speedily followed by several other gentlemen, and the annual export now falls but little short of 1,000,000 tons. The Aberdaro Railway, connected with the Taff Vale Railway, was, in a few years afterwards, opened; and, from a small village, this place has now become one of the most important places of business in South Wales. The Aberdare Canal, 7 m. long, passes within 1 m. of the village, communicating with the Glamorganshire Canal. Pop. (1841), about 6000; (1851), rather more than 15,000; and steadily progressing at the rate of about 1200 yearly. ABERDEEN, a maritime co. in the N.E. of Scotland, occupying the central portion of an extensive promontory which projects into the North Sea, between the Friths of Tay and Moray. It is about 91 m. in length E.N.E. to W.S.W., and about 36 m. in width at the broadest part in right angles to its length, diminishing S.W. to about 10 m. It is bounded W., N.W., and N., by the counties of Inverness and Banff, S. and S.E. by those of Perth, Forfar, and Kin cardine, and E. and N. by the North Sea. It has 60 in. of a ea-coast, about 14 of which, from the Dee to Ythan, are low and sandy ; the remainder is mostly bold and rocky, and, in me places, deeply penetrated by remarkable fissures and caverns ; but there are no islands upon it deserving of special notice. The county is estimated to contain 1,260,800 acres, and is divided into eight districts, and 85 parishes, several of which are united. It is generally hilly, and in the S.W. occur several of the highest mountains in Scotland. These are, Ben Macdhui, 4390 ft. high ; Cairntoul, 4220 ; Cairngorm, 4095; Bcnnabuird, 3940; Lochnagar, 3800; and several others, varying from 3000 to 3700 ft. These moun tains present, in some places, vast perpendicular precipices, a few of them exceeding 1000 ft. in height. Their sum mits are generally bare, rounded, and covered with detached masses of granite. The predominant rocks of the county are gneiss, mica-slate, and granite ; and patches of serpentine occur in many parts. Trap rocks are of continual occur rence in the inland and hilly parts ; and veins or dikes of trap are observed in parishes near the E. coast. But its most valuable mineral is its celebrated building granite, large quantities of which are exported yearly from the quarries near Aberdeen and Peterhead. It is of two colours, gray and red ; is extremely hard, and susceptible of a high polish. The other rocks are limestone, sandstone, and clay- slate, occurring in small quantity. Several descriptions of precious stones, including rock-crystal and topaz, are occa sionally found on the mountains, and small pieces of amber on the Buchan coast. Chalybeate springs occur in several parts of the county, the most celebrated of which are those of Peterhead, Fraserhurgh, and Pananich. The principal rivers are the Dee .and the Don (both of wltich sec). The former rises in the S.W. part of the co., in the mountains which there separate the latter from Inverness- shire, at a height of 4000 ft. The latter has its source on the W. border of the co., at an elevation of 1640 ft. above the level of the sea. The salmon fishery of the Dee is worth about 8000 a-year. That of the Don is less valuable. Other streams are the Ythan, Ugie, and Deveron or Doveran. Amongst the lakes in Absrdeenshire, none of which are remarkable for their extent, is that which inspired the early muse of Byron Lochnagar. It is a small sheet of water, situated amongst the mountains in the S.W. part of the co., at a height of 2500 ft. above the level of the sea. The scenery around it is singularly wild and picturesque, a rock of 1315 ft. in perpendicular height rising close by its margin. In the S.W. parts of Aberdeenshire there are some exten sive forests, including the celebrated forest of Mar, in which are many magnificent specimens of the Scotch fir, some of them supposed to be from 300 to 400 years old. The largest measure 13 and 14 ft. in girth, 6 ft. from the ground, and are about 60 ft. in height. These forests are plentifully stocked with red and roe deer, and all sorts of game. The soil of the county varies greatly. The finest arable land lies chiefly between the Don and the Ythan. In the lower parts round the coast, clay is prevalent ; in the upper arable districts, there is a considerable extent of light, sharp, sandy loam. Sand, moor, and moss prevail on the hills and higher grounds, occupying, with the mountainous tracts and other waste lands, nearly two-thirds of the entire county. The climate is, on the whole, mild ; but the summer short, and ABERDEEN (NEW) ABERDEEN (NEW) somewhat cold. An improved system of cultivation is extending over the county, chiefly from the example of experi enced farmers from the southern districts of Scotland, many of whom have settled in it. All the crops usual in other parts of the country, with the exception of wheat, for which neither the soil nor climate are suitable, succeed well here, especially oats, of which about 16,000 acres are grown annu ally ; barley, potatoes, and turnips. But the most important object now with the tenantry is the rearing of cattle, immense numbers of which are exported annually. This trade is of comparatively recent date, but has been of extraordinary rapid growth. It commenced about the year 1830, since which it has risen from 150 head to 18,300 the number exported in 1 849. The native breed, which is said to have greatly increased in size since the introduction of turnip feeding, is preferred by the best j udges. Dairy husbandry has also made great progress of late years ; the quantity of butter now annually exported is said to exceed 100,000 in value. Sheep farming has not increased in proportion. The old domestic stocking-knitting, for which Aberdeenshire was once famous, is now nearly extinct ; but there are exten sive manufactures of cotton, linen, flax, and of woollen and sail cloth, in the city of Aberdeen, and neighbourhood. The scenery in the mountainous parts of the country is of the most magnificent description, and attracts numerous visitors in the summer season. Much pleasing scenery occurs also along nearly the whole course of the Dee. There are many noblemen s and gentlemen s seats dispersed over the county, one of which Balmoral is now a summer residence of her majesty Queen Victoria. The royal mansion 130 m. by rail ; lat. 57 8 54" N. ; Ion. 2. 5 7" W. (K.) It is large and handsome, the streets are in general spacious, and the houses mostly built of fine granite from quarries in the neigh bourhood. The principal street in the city is Union Street, in the line of which a splendid granite bridge, of one arch, 132 ft. span, and 56 ft. from the base of the piers to the top of the parapet is thrown over the ravine of the Den burn a small rivulet which intersects the city, and falls into the harbour. A jointstock company have recently opened up a new street from the harbour to the centre of the town, and erected a great central public market on the west side of the new street, at a cost of nearly 40,000. Among the principal public buildings may be mentioned the county rooms, founded in 1820; the surgeons hall; advocates hall; Marischal College; the trades hall ; the barracks, erected on the Castle-hill ; a military hospital on the Heading-hill, the ancient place of execution, now connected with the Castle-hill by an elegant cast-iron bridge; the Bridewell, on the west side of the town, and the old cross, in the centre of Castle Street, a fine spe cimen of the ornamental architecture of the 17th century. BALMORAL CASTLE. From an Original Drawing. is in the parish of Crathie, on the right bank of the Dee, on a natural platform at the foot of a hill called Craig-an- gowan, 52 m., by road, W.S.W. Aberdeen, and 75 N. Edin burgh. Balmoral castle was originally a very old building, but had been latterly much enlarged and improved by various occupants ; it has been further altered and extended since it became the royal residence, and now presents, from the variety of styles in which the different additions have been executed, a very irregular, but certainly very picturesque appearance. The scenery around comprises nearly all the elements of the beautiful and romantic in landscape, the principal and most striking of which are the richly-wooded hills and rocky heights which rise abruptly on either side of the Dee. The annual value of real property assessed in Aberdeenshire, in 1843, was 603,968. The receipts for the relief of the poor in the year ending May 14, 1847, was 28,158, 15s. 9|d ; the expenditure for the same period, 28,610, 4s. O^d. A large proportion of the working population is employed in agricul ture and in the fisheries on the coast. The county sends one member to parliament; constituency in 1847, 3836. County town, Aberdeen. Pop. in 1851, 212,032. ABERDEEN (NEW), a royal burgh and seaport, Scotland, co. Aberdeen, of which it is the cap., situated mostly on rising ground at the mouth of the river Dee, on its N. bank; 94 in. direct distance N.E. Edinburgh, and VOL. I. IHK MARKET CHOSS, ABEKUiJ ,> . It is of a hexagonal form, and is adorned with a series, of well executed quarter-length effigies of Scotch and British sovereigns, from James I. to James VII. It was erected in 1 686, on the site of an older cross, which was then demolished In 1839, the present structure was removed to the spot it now occupies, a distance of about 100 yards from its former position. The ecclesiastical establishments of the city, at the time of the Eeformation, consisted of one parish, containing three churches ; but in the course of the last century, the seafaring population had a church erected at Foot-Dee, and subsequently, down till 1834, when presbyteries were empowered by the General Assembly to assign districts to chapels of ease, quoad sacra, the number of churches in connection with the Estab lishment was 14. Since the Disruption, 14 Free churches have been erected, and altogether there are now 45 churches in the city of Aberdeen, viz., 9 Established ; 15 Free churches; 5 United Presbyterian ; 4 Congregational; 3 Baptist; 2 Scottish Episcopal; 1 Church of England; 1 Unitarian; 1 Wesleyan; 1 R. catholic ; 3 Various. The charitable and benevolent institutions aro numerous. The principal establishment of this class is Gordon s Hospital, which is similar to George Heriot s Hospital in Edinburgh, and maintains and educates 150 boys. This hospital was endowed by a citizen who acquired a large fortune in Danzig, and left the property under deed of mortification, dated Dec. 13, 1729, in charge of the magistrates, for the education of the sons of decayed burgesses, and relatives of the name of Gordon and Menzies. In 1816, another benevolent gentleman left considerable property for the education of boys, under similar conditions, and which was conjoined with Gordon s Hospital; and by the economical investment of the whole funds, after defraying the cost of the building, the trustees are enabled to command an annual revenue of 3000. Among the other charitable institutions of the city, we may enumerate a house of refuge, founded and endowed by Mr. James Watt, ABERDEEN (NEW) LO ABERDEEN (NEW) surgeon; four industrial schools; the deaf and dumb institu tion; an orphan girls school, and an asylum for the blind. The most valuable of the benevolent institutions of the city is the royal infirmary, which was established by the magistrates in 17.39; and which, by numerous bequests and liberal subscriptions, has become so extended as to afford ac commodation for the treatment of 300 poor patients, and at the same time constitutes a valuable adjunct to the Aberdeen medical school. Under the same management as the infirmary, the constituency of which are the subscribers above 5, there id a lunatic asylum, which was chiefly built by a legacy of 10,000, left by Mr. John Forbes, of Newe. The average number of patients is 200. New Aberdeen is the seat of a college, called Marischal College, founded and endowed by George, Earl Marischal, in 1593. The original building having been found incommodious, :i new structure was erected some years since at a cost of 22,000, when several new chairs were erected and endowed. The aflairs and discipline of this college are managed by the Benatus Academicus, which consists of the chancellor, the rector, the dean of faculty, the principal, and 10 professors. There are 114 bursaries connected with this college and uni versity, of the annual value of 1150, 70 of which are open to competition. The average number of students for the last 20 years has been: in arts, 190; in divinity, 120; in law, 35; in medicine, 84. The session commences in the beginning of November, and close the 1st of April. It was usual at this university, as at most others in Scotland a short time ago, to receive students who were grounded only in Latin; but in 1847, the Senatus Academicus resolved to re ceive no entrants who had not also been previously grounded in Arithmetic and the Elements of Greek. Besides the public schools, which are under the charge of the magistrates, and to which the children of pauper poor may be admitted free of charge, there are five endowed schools, 36 sessional and voluntary schools, and free schools of industry. From statistical returns recently obtained by an educational society, it appears that there were about 6000 children at school within the city when the parliamentary census was taken in 1841, which is equal to nearly one- twelfth part of the population. The manufactures of Aberdeen date from a very early period of history. So early as the year 1200, it exported to the Netherlands woolfels ; and in the loth century, there were exports of plaiden, digrams, stuffs, serges, and stockings ; in return for which the burgesses received wine, brandy, sugar, tobacco, soap, and iron, grain, flax, and fruit. Stocking weaving was the staple manufacture of the city for many years. In 1749, a manufactory for preparing linen thread was established, and afterwards two flaxmills were estab lished; then followed the establishment of four cotton manu factories, all of which continue in operation. The flaxmills employ between 2000 and 3000 hands, the cotton works about 1500, and the woollen manufactures 2000 hands; at wages varying from 2s. 6d. to 8s. for females, and from Is. 6d. to 21s. a week for males. Besides these, there are three manufactories for combs, one of them the largest of the kind in the kingdom. Granite was first polished in this city; and now there is a very large estab lishment for preparing that stone for all sorts of useful and ornamental work. Paper making is carried on to a consider able extent in the neighbourhood, and there are several manufactories for locomotive engines in the city. There is also a good deal of ship building. The harbour of Aberdeen is spacious, and is rendered safe by a pier of granite on the N. side of the Dee, which extends into the German ocean. The harbour and docks, the latter enclosing a surface of 36 acres, are the property of the corporation of Aberdeen, and the business is virtually managed by a committee annually elected by a general com mission. The ordinary revenue is about 20,000, and tin expenditure between 17,000 and 18,000. The foreigi commerce is chiefly with N. America, the E. Indies, W. Indies, the Mediterranean, and the Baltic. The principal imports are wheat, flour, coals, salt, flax, lime, and cotton, Exports linen, cotton, and woollen goods ; oats, barley, am bere ; cattle, sheep, pigs, butter, eggs, pork, salmon, am granite; of which last 40,000 worth is sent annually to London. There were 12 ships formerly employed in th hale fishing, but they are now reduced to two or three. The shipping trade of the port has greatly increased of late ears. In 1849, the number of sailing vessels belonging to Aberdeen, under and above 50 tons, was 340 ; tonn 65,559 : while, in 1835, the number was only 173; tonn. 26,063. The ;ross receipt of customs in the year 1845, was 76,259, 2s. Wd. The total number and tonnage of vessels inwards, or the same year, was 2219 ; tonn. 277,912. Outwards, 1522 ; onn. 214,756. There is a regular communication by steam jetween Aberdeen and London, Leith, Inverness, Cromarty, Caithness, Orkney, and Shetland. The vessels employed on hese stations arc all of the finest description, and are the iroperty of joint stock companies in the city. On Girdle Ness point, a little S. of the entrance into the harbour, there lighthouse, first used in 1833. It is a double light, exhibiting two fixed lights, one over the other, and may be seen at the distance of 13 to 16 miles; lat. 57 8 N. ; Ion. 2 3 W. There are also coloured leading lights for the har- jour. A bar runs across the mouth of the harbour, on which here are 12 ft. neaps, and 16 ft. spring tides. The mercantile institutions of Aberdeen comprise a guildry ; wo native banks, viz., the Town and County Banking Com- >any, and the North of Scotland Banking Company; and six )ranch banks, viz., a branch of the Union Bank of Scotland, he National Bank of Scotland, the Bank of Scotland, the Commercial Bank of Scotland, the British Linen Company s Bank, and the City of Glasgow Banking Company. There s also a National Savings Bank, and two native Insurance Companies. The guildry, which was at one time the great ;oinmercial league of the city, being now stripped of its jxclusive privileges, exists only as a charitable or benevolent nstitution. There are seven incorporate trades, possessed )f property to a great extent; and it is worthy of remark that :he trades and the city treasury are the principal feuholders >f Aberdeen. The municipal affairs of the town are conducted by a pro vost, four bailies, a dean of guild, and 12 councillors. The ,vatching, cleaning, and lighting are under the control of a joard of commissioners, of which the provost, the dean of juild, the city treasurer, and the convener of the trades, are ix officio members, other 18 commissioners being chosen by rate-payers, paying 5 of yearly rent. Aberdeen was originally called Dcvanlia; but during the Scoto-Saxon period it became known by the name of Aberdeen r Aberdon, and in subsequent ages by Alerdene or Aberdeen. The etymology of this designation is generally allowed to be Celtic, and from some manuscripts published by the Spalding Club, it would appear that for the first 12 centuries the Celtic was the only language spoken and written in this city, ami the north of Scotland. During the reign of David I., and probably about the year 1130, Aberdeen was constituted a royal burgh, and the .habitants btirgcnscs regis, as holding their Burgagium im mediately of the crown. In 1440, the city was ranked under the Laws of Burrows, and provision made that the provost, baillies, and council shall be chosen annually by the com mon suffrages of all the honest men of the burgh. About the year 1179, William the Lion confirmed the privileges and immunities enjoyed in the name of his grandfather, and erected the city into a corporation by royal charter, which appears to have been the first instrument of the kind executed in Scot land. Thus enfranchised, the magistrates became entitled to send representatives to the national parliament, or Scottish Estates. In 1 196, additional privileges were conferred on the city. In 1222-23, Alexander II. permitted the holding of a weekly market, and authorized the institution of a merchant guild, or Mercantile confraternity. In 1342, David II. summoned a general council to meet in the city, at which former charters were enlarged ; local improvements superin duced, the streets paved, and many of the houses, formerly built of wood, rebuilt of stone. From these circumstances, the town thenceforward became distinguished by the name of New Aberdeen. The last charter granted to the city was by Charles I., and is dated Oatlands, Sept. 9, 1638. By the act of Union, Aberdeen became entitled to send a repre sentative to the parliament of the United Kingdom, conjunctly with Arbroath, Montrose, Brechin, and Bervie; but by the Reform Bill of 1832, it was again erected into an independent constituency, which includes both New and Old Aberdeen. ABERDEEN (OLD) ABERGAVENNY Among the eminent men connected with Aberdeen were John Barbour, the poet, George Jamieson, the painter, James Gregory inventor of the reflecting telescope, Dr. Beattie, author of The Minstrel, and the late eminent physician, Dr. Abercrombie of Edinburgh; all of whom, with exception of Dr. Beattie, were natives of the town, or of its immediate vicinity. According to the census of 1841, the pop. of Aberdeen, in cluding the par. of St. Nicholas and Old Machar, was 66,778; pop within the parliamentary boundary, 63,288. Increase on the whole since 1831, 875U; apparent increase within par liamentary boundary, 5269. Parliamentary constituency for 1848-49, 2832. ABERDEEN (OLD), a small but ancient city in Scot land, co. Aberdeen, pleasantly situated on the S. bank of the Don, about 1 m. N. New Aberdeen, of which it may now be considered a suburb. It consists of but one principal street, running N. and S., and some diverging lanes or alleys, several of which are very old. It is well supplied with water, is sur rounded with many handsome villas, and is, altogether, an agreeable place of residence. The more remarkable buildings are the college (King s College), the remains of the cathedral, KING S COLLEGE, OLD ABERDEEN. From a Local Print. the townhouse, and the old bridge of Don. The townhouse is a neat structure, and is provided with a handsome public clock. The bridge, celebrated in Scottish tradition by the name of the Brig o Balgownie, is one of the oldest edifices of the kind in Scotland, having been erected by king Robert Bruce in the 14th century; it consists of one large Gothic arch of 67 ft. span. The nave of the cathedral, now used as the parish church of Old Machar, and two fine spires at the west end, are all that remains of the original structure, a magnificent build ing, commenced in the 14th century, and dedicated to St. Machar. It has still an imposing appearance, and is kept in high preservation ; its large western window and oak ceiling, painted with armorial bearings, being much admired. The college buildings occupy the sides of a large quadrangle, and, with their chapel, were renewed some years ago at an expense of about 6000. These buildings are finely set off by a noble tower, surmounted by an imperial crown of open stone work. The college was founded by Bishop Elphinstone in 1494, and was subsequently patronized by James IV. There are here 34 bursaries, held by 1 34 students, their aggregate value being about 1800 a year, and giving about one bursary to every fourth student. There are nine professors, and several lectureships ; but the lecturers, unless also professors, are not members of the Senatus Academicus. The students wear red gowns, and are from 200 to 250 in number. There is also a grammar school in the town, and various other schools. Old Aberdeen has neither trade nor manufactures, but is wholly dependent on its university. Top. in 1841, about 1490. ABERDOUR, the name of a village and two parishes, Scotland: 1, A vil., par. of same name, co. Fife, beautifully situated within about m. of the sea, and much resorted to in the summer season, as sea-bathing quarters, by the citizens of Edinburgh, being distant from that city only about 8 m., and having daily communication with it by steamers. The PARISH lies on the shores of the Frith of Forth ; abounds in coal, lime, and freestone, and is well wooded. There are here the remains of the old castle of Aberdour, built by the Regent Morton ; area about 5000 ac. Pop. in 1841, 983. 2, A par., co. Aberdeen, on the N. coast, 8 m. W. Fraserburgh ; from 10 to 11 m. long, and about 7 broad. The whole sea coast of this par. is bold, rocky, and picturesque; and con tains some remarkable caverns, in one of which Lord Pitsligo lay concealed after the battle of Culloden, till his retreat was discovered by the footprints in the snow, of the young girl who carried him his supplies of food and other necessaries. Pop. in 1841, 1645. ABERDOVY, a harbour on the W. coast of Wales, co. Merioneth, 10 m. N. Aberystwith ; lat. 52 36 N. ; Ion. 4 7 W. This harbour is safe and convenient for vessels drawing not more than 15 ft.; but as the bar and channel leading into it frequently shift, a pilot is necessary. ABERFELDY, a vil. Scotland, co. Perth, 22 m. N.W. the city of Perth, and 53 N.W. Edinburgh. It lies in a pic turesque locality, near the right bank of the Tay, and consists chiefly of one long street, witli another leading off about the centre, and a small square at their junction. It has a parish and a Free church, a bank, and some good schools. In the vicinity are the Birks of Aberfeldy the wooded uplands round the fine falls of the Moncss, which arc celebrated in Scottish song. Pop. in 1841, 823. ABERFFRAW, a small tn. seaport, and par. Wales, on the W. coast of the isl. of Anglesea, on a slope rising from the E. and S.E., at the mouth of the river Ffraw, about 7 m. S.E. Ilolyhead, and 15 S. W. Bangor. It consists of two narrow streets. The houses are all of stone, and many of them thatched. It is not lighted, and is but indifferently supplied with water. The church is a very ancient building, and con tains one of the most perfect Anglo-Saxon arches in the prin cipality. There are, besides, two Methodist chapels and a free school. In summer a few large boats carry corn and potatoes to Carnarvon and Isle of Man, which forms nearly the whole trade of the place. Husbandry and fishing form the chief employment of the inhabitants. There are six cattle fairs held during the year. Abcrffraw was one of the three royal residences of Wales, and a seat of the principal courts of justice. In moderate weather, a vessel may stop a tide in the bay, in 4 or 5 fathoms, clean sand, above 2 cables-length from the N. side of the bay. Small vessels go further in and lie aground. Pop. of par. in 1841, 1336 ; of town, in 1850, from 650 to 700. ABERFOIL, or ABEKFOYLE, a small par. and romantic pass in the Highlands of Scotland, co. Perth, on its S. boundary, 23 m. N. Glasgow, and 16 m. W. by N. Stirling. The clachan (Anglice, hamlet) of Aberfoil, is the scene of some amusing incidents in Scott s novel, liob Roy. The scenery around is varied and picturesque. Pop. in 1841, 543. ABERFORD, a tn. England, co. York, W. Riding, 9 m. N.E. Leeds, and 14 m. S.S.W. York, in a valley on the river Cock, which is here crossed by a substantial stone bridge of three arches. It consists of one long street, a mile in length; the houses are of stone, and generally well built. The town is not lighted, but is amply supplied with water from springs. The only buildings of any note are the church an ancient structure of mixed architecture, and the Aberford almshouses, built in 1844-5. The latter is a handsome building, and con tains eight inmates, four male and four female. There are here a Methodist chapel, a R. catholic chapel, a national, and other schools. There are no manufactures, the inhabitants being mostly engaged in agricultural labour, and a portion in collieries and lime quarries in the vicinity. Petty sessions are held here every fortnight, and Justice of the Peace courts daily. Aberford is a polling place for the W. Riding of York. Its population has greatly increased within the last 10 years. ABERGAVENNY, a tn. and par. England, co. Mon- mouth, the former 14 m. S.W. from the town of Monmouth, and 157 m. by railway from London, pleasantly situated on rising ground, at the confluence of the Usk and Gavenny, over the former of which there is a handsome stone bridge of 15 arches. The town is long and straggling, and some of the streets are narrow, but great improvements have taken place of late years. It is now lighted with gas, and amply supplied with water, by pipes from springs in the vicinity. There are ABERGELE ABHA es ; structure, and contains several ancient monuments. There are, besides, several Dissenters meeting-houses, a R. catholic chapel, a free grammar school, founded by Henry VIII., two churches one of which, recently rebuilt, is a handsome that of Inverness, being united with the par. of Kincardine. 1 Pop. in 1841, 1832. ABERSEE, or ST. WOLFGANG, a small lake, Upper Austria, circle Traun, 6 in. W. Ischcl. It is about 6 m. , national school, and several daily and Sunday schools. The benevolent institutions comprise a dispensary, a lying-in hos pital, and some minor charities. A thriving reading society, or association, was established here in 1848. Abergavenny was at one time famous for the manufacture of flannels and periwigs, but both trades are now extinct ; the former in con sequence of the introduction of machinery, and the latter through the caprices of fashion. The wigs made here were composed of goats hair, and were remarkable for their extreme whiteness, the quality which constituted their chief value. The principal trade now remaining is in wool, but a pretty extensive general retail trade has arisen from the establish ment of several iron works in the vicinity. There is here, also, a large boot and shoe-making concern, a coach manu factory, several tanners, tallow-chandlers, saddlers, cabinet makers, wood-turners, and brewers, &c. &c. The prosperity of the place is further promoted by the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal, which passes near it. Petty sessions are held here every Wednesday. Market days, Tuesday and Saturday ; the latter principally for grain. There are three fairs annually for cattle, sheep, horses, hogs, and flannel. The scenery in the vicinity is singularly beautiful and picturesque, particu larly when seen from the terrace of the ancient castle of Abergavenny, which is situated on an eminence near the S. extremity of the town, and is open to the public. Area of par. 4290 acres. Pop. of town and par. in 1841, 4953. ABERGELE, or ABERGELEV, a small market tn. and par., N. Wales, co. of, and 10 m. N. by W. Denbigh, and 6 in. N.W. St. Asaph. The town is about half a mile from the sea, although called a seaport in several gazetteers. Being surrounded with beautiful scenery, and having a salubrious air, it is much frequented by invalids, while its fine beach attracts numerous sea-bathers during the summer season. It is also much resorted to on account of its cattle fairs, of which there are three annually. There arc a church and several dissenting chapels here, and a national and British school. None of the churches have any architectural pretensions. The town consists of three streets, one of which, the main street, is straight. The houses generally are built of lime stone, with which the neighbourhood abounds ; the rest of brick. There is no trade in the town, the inhabitants consisting of shopkeepers, tradesmen, mechanics, and a few farmers. At the distance of about 1 m. there are some remarkable caverns. Pop. of par. and tn. in 1841, 2GG1. ABERGWILLY, a small vil. and par., S. Wales, co. Carmarthen, bun. Elvet ; the former on a beautiful plain in the vale of Towy, 2 m. N.E. the town of Carmarthen. It consists of one straight street, generally well kept. The houses have been well built, principally of stone, but are fall ing into decay. The village is well supplied with water, but is not lighted. The church is in the Gothic style. There arc, also, a very handsome Independent chapel, built about five years ago, of undressed limestone, and one national school. Near the village is Abergwilly palace, the residence of the bishop of St. David, a handsome structure, surrounded with finely ornamented grounds. Pop. of par. and vil. in 1841, 2306. ABERNETHY, a village and two parishes, Scotland: I, A vil. and par., co. Perth ; the former 7 m. S.E. town of Perth, and 27 m. N.W. Edinburgh. It is irregularly built, and is composed chiefly of thatched houses. Abernethy is supposed to have been the capital of the Picts. A religious house, dedicated to St. Bridget, was endowed here during the Pictish period, and long flourished under the patronage of the Scottish kings ; and here the Culdcoi continued, till they were sup pressed in the 1 3th century. There is, likewise, at this place, a round tower of great antiquity, 74 ft. in height, and 48 ft. in circumference at the base. Under the floor of this tower, three skeletons were found in 1841, indicating, apparently, that these mysterious structures were used as places of sepulture. Numerous other interesting relics of remote times have been found in this neighbourhood, proving, in connection with its historical associations, that it had been at a former period a place of great note. Area of par., a small portion of which is in co. Fife, about 7030 acres. Pop. in 1841, 1920; of vil. 827. 2, A par. partly in the co. of Elgin, and partly in long by 3 m. broad ; has a depth of from 500 to 600 ft., and yields pike, salmon, and large trout, in great quantity. Near the E. end is the vil. of St. Wolfgang, whence the lake derives one of its names. ABERTAMM, a small market tn. Bohemia, circle of, and 12 in. N.N.E. Elnbogen. It lies on the Wistritz, at the foot of the Plessberg, and has a church. In the neigh bouring hills are mines of silver, tin, and cobalt, in which tho majority of the inhabitants are occupied. Pop. 1700. ABERYSTVVITH, a seaport tn. Wales, co. Cardigan, pleasantly situated on an acclivity on the bay of the latter name, at the confluence of the rivers Ystwith and Rheidiol, 33 m. N.E. the town of Cardigan, and 180 W.N.W. London. It was at one time strongly fortified with walls, a portion of which still remains on the shore. Aberystwith has become, of late years, one of the most fashionable watering places on the Welsh coast, and has consequently been much extended and improved. The streets are steep and uneven ; but some of them are spacious, and they are in general regular, well paved, and well lighted with gas. The houses are, for the most part, neat and substantial, and many of them large and handsome, and all amply supplied with excellent water, brought by pipes from the neighbouring hills. The principal public buildings, and other objects of interest, are the two churches, one of which is a handsome new structure in the Gothic style, the custom house, assembly rooms, town hall, and theatre. The Marine Parade, an elegant crescent, is situated on the margin of the sea, and close by is the Marine Terrace, a handsome range of modern buildings, commanding a fine view of the bay. At the north end are the marine baths, in which every requisite accommodation is to be met with. There are also a market place, and a handsome gene ral mart lately erected, an infirmary, and places of worship for Baptists, Independents, and Methodists. There are four dissenting schools and one national, an institution for the deaf and dumb for the principality, and an infirmary. Besides sea-bathing, for which the beach is admirably adapted, having a gentle slope, with water of the utmost purity, there is a chalybeate spring within a few hundred yards of the east end of the town, the waters of which resemble those of Tunbridge. There are four public walks, the principal of which, called the Castle Walks, are much admired for the extensive views they command. Races are held every August, on race ground about 3 m. from the town. Archery and cricket clubs have also been established. A little west of the town, on a bold eminence projecting into the sea, are the picturesque ruins of an ancient castle, founded in 1109. There are no particular manufactures carried on, the people being chiefly employed in seafaring, mining, and agriculture. Their condition appears to be favourable. The harbour, which was formerly in a very bad condition, has been of late considerably improved ; it has now an average depth of 16 ft. water at spring tides. A substantial stone pier has been erected on the S. side of the entrance into the harbour, which protects it from the W. gales. The pier extends 260 yds. in a S.S.E. direction. The principal exports are lead ore from Cardiganshire, pig lead, oak bark, corn, and butter. The imports, coal, culm, lime, American timber, and general merchandise. The number and tonnage of sailing vessels registered at the port on December 31, 1847, was 164; tonn. 8934. The number of vessels that entered the harbour during the year ending December 31, 1847, was 382; tonn. 14,184: the number that cleared during the same period, 177; tonn. 7496. The government of the town is vested in a mayor, recorder, chamberlain, and common bur gesses. Aberystwith Is one of the contributory boroughs of Cardiganshire that return a member to the House of Com mons. Pop. 4975. ABERYSTWITH, or BI.AEXAU, a par. England, co. Mon- month; area, 10,930 ac. Pop. 11,272. It contains several villages, and extensive iron-works, and abounds with valuable iron minus. AB1IA, a large vil. Abyssinia, state or kingdom of TigriS, about 50 m. N.E Axum; the residence of a chief who rules over the territory of Massoua, and the seat of a consider able trade in cattle, horses, iron, skins, and cotton. ABIAD 13 ABO ABIAD (BAHR-EL-), a large river of Africa, supposed to be the true Nile, that river being formed by the junction of the Bahr-el-Abiad (White Nile), and the Bahr-el-Azrek, or Blue Nile, at Khartum; lat. 15 40 N.; Ion. 33 E. (See AZREK, BAHR-EL-.) It is believed to rise under the name of Tubiri, at a comparatively small distance from the sea, in the ccruntry of Mino Moezi, a continuation of the high plateau of Abyssinia, situated to the N. of the great lake Zambeze, or N yassi. It was ascended by M. Arnaud d Abbadie, in 1842, to 4 42 42" N. lat. (S,:e NILE.) ABILA, ABIL, or ABELA [Hebrew, Abel, a grassy spot 1 ]. The name of several ancient places in Syria, of which the most noted was Ahila of Lysanias, cap. of the Roman prov. of Abilene, on the river Barradai 18 m. N.W. Damascus, on the site of the modern village of Suk Wady Barrada. A few broken pillars, and other fragments, are all that now remain to indicate its former rank. ABILENE, a small district, or Roman prov. Syria, whose precise extent is now unknown. It lay N.W. Damascus, and was named from its chief town, Abila. ABINGDON, a bor. and market tn. England, co. Berks, 50 m. N.W. London, r. bank of the Thames, at the junction of the Ock. Its streets are spacious, and well paved and lighted. In the centre of the town is the market place and market house, the latter a large and handsome building of freestone. The other public edifices are the two parish churches, one of which, St. Helen s, is a large Gothic struc ture, with a fine spire; the chapels of the Dissenters, of which there are four or five, including Baptists, Independents, Society of Friends, and Wesleyan Methodists ; the guildhall, and the county jail. The educational institutions comprise a free grammar school, a national, and a British school. There are a number of almshouses in the town, and various minor cha rities. The principal manufactures are canvas, sacking, and sailcloth ; the latter, however, has much fallen off of late years, owing to the competition of establishments in the N. of Eng land and in Scotland. Malting, carpet weaving, and hemp dressing, are also carried on to a considerable extent. The corporation consists of a mayor, four aldermen, and 12 coun cillors. Abingdon returns one member to the House of Com mons ; registered electors, 315. Seven fairs are held annually, chiefly for horses and horned cattle, Races are held in Sep tember. The branch railway of the Great Western line, leading to Oxford, passes by Abingdon, where there is a station. Abingdon is a very old town, its original foundation being ascribed to the Saxons. In former times, it was called Scheovesham, and is spoken of in ancient records as a wealthy and important place. Pop. in 1.841, 5269. ABINGEll, a par. England, co Surrey ; area, 9780 ac. ; 4 m. S.W. Dorking. Top. in 1841, 920. ABINGHALL, a par. England, co. Gloucester; area, 860 ac. Pop. in 1841, 239. ABINGTON, the name of several parishes, England : 1, AUngton, a par., co. Northampton ; area, 1190 ac. It has two small charities. Pop. in 1841, 143. 2, Abinyton (Great), a par., co. Cambridge; area, 1500 ac.; 2 m. N.W. by W. Linton. Pop. in 1841, 358. 3, AUngton (Little], a par., co. Cambridge ; area, 1120 ac. Pop. in 1841, 277. i, AUngton- in-the-Clai/, or I iyotts, a par., co. Cambridge; area, 1260 ac. Pop. in 1841, 232. Also a par. and vil. Ireland, co. Limerick and Tipperary; area, 30,400 ac. Pop. 8314. ABIPONES, or ABIPONIANS, a warlike tribe of aborigines, S. America, republic of La Plata, located in El Gran Chaco, on the right bank of the Vermejo. The men are tall, robust, well featured, and excel in swimming. Their leader in war is their judge in peace. They subsist by fishing and hunting, and hold the flesh of the tiger in the highest estimation. They are much given to war; and their weapons are long lances and arrows, with iron points. Their numbers once exceeded 100,000, but now they scarcely amount to 5000, and are daily decreasing. (Heal Enciildopridie.} ABISCUN, or ABOSKUN, a small tn. Persia, prov. of, and 42 m. N.E. from Astrabad, upon the river Gurgan ; lat. 37 17 N.; Ion. 55 E. It has a small but well-frequented port upon the Caspian Sea. The fishery near Abiscun is leased to the liussians, who send seven or eight vessels here annually. AB-IS TAD A [ standing water ], a lake, Afghanistan (which see). ABKASIA, ABASIA, or ABCIIASIA, a trans-Caucasian prov. Russia, gov. Imeretia, bounded N. and W. by the Cau casus, which separates it from Circassia, E. byMingrelia, and S. by the Black Sea. The country is composed wholly of the S. side of the Caucasus mountains some of whose snow- covered peaks are here 12,000 ft. to 13,000 ft. high and of the low plains intervening between these mountains and the sea. The prevailing geological formations are greenstone, porphyry, black slate, and Jura limestone. Immense forests of the finest trees oak, alder, chestnut, &c., clothe the moun tain sides, stretching down to the plains, whose Italian climate, ripening maize, figs, pomegranates, the fruits of central Europe, grain, and excellent grapes, invites to profitable cultivation ; but the country is a waste, its numerous ruins alone proclaiming its former flourishing condition. Nor do the Abkases excel in cattle rearing or commerce a little of the latter, in felt mantles, fox and polecat skins, honey, wax, and boxwood, being carried on any more than in agriculture. On the con trary, with such indifference are these branches of industry pursued, that by their means they do not obtain a sufficient subsistence ; which, therefore, they eke out in the manner most congenial to their tastes, by plunder and robbery occupations which, in them, have become a second nature. The slave-trade with Turkey formerly constituted one of the chief employ ments, and tended greatly to reduce the population. Notwith standing the watchfulness of the Eussians, slaves are still secretly exported. The Abkases belong to the Circassian race, and distinguish among themselves five tribes Abkases pro per, Bsubbes, Tschebeldies, Aschawes, and Imuozahanes. Abkasia, under the Byzantine emperors, formed an inde pendent state, separate from Georgia. In the 1 1th century, by heirship, it fell to the kings of Georgia, under whom it decayed; and in 1457, it fell under the supremacy of the Turks. In 1771, the Abkases asserted their independence; and, after various fortunes, about 1823, the reigning prince, Michael Bei, called on the Russians to occupy the country, which they did, by stationing troops at Sukum, Tambor, Pitzunda, and Gagra, the chief towns of Abkasia. Area about 2638 sq. m. Pop. about 52,000. (Real Encyldopadie.} ABKASIA, LITTLE, a district, Circassia (which see). AB-KETTLEBY, a par and township, England, co. Leicester; area, 2920 ac. Pop. in 1841, 380. ABKHASIA. See ABKASIA. AB-KUREN, a river, Persia. See KARUN. ABLA, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 34 m. N.W. Almeria, on the highroad between that town and Granada, situated on the S. slope of the Sierra Nevada, close and ill built, with houses raised on causeways 25 ft. above the carriage road. It has three squares, a parish church, chapter house, public storehouse, and prison. Its inhabitants are engaged in distilling brandy, and in making bricks, tiles, and earthenware. Pop. 2120. (Madoz.) ABLA1KIT (GREAT and LITTLE), two small rivers, E. Siberia, affluents of the Irtisch, into which they full, after having united a few miles above Ust-Kamenogorsk, in about lat. 49 N. ; Ion. 82 E. On the right bank of the most westerly of these rivers, is the small decayed town of Ablai kit, 50 m. S.S.W. Ust-Kamenogorsk, in which are the remains of a temple, surrounded by a wall 15 ft. high, said to have been built previous to 1671, and to have been dedicated to the native deities, by Ablai , chief of the Kahnucs. In the valley of Ablai kit are the ruins of an ancient Tartar castle, which has been dignified by the name of the palace of Ablai kit, although it would seem to have had little other claim than extent to such title. Its materials having been carried away for building purposes, hardly anything more than^the foundations now remain. ABO, a seaport tn. and dist. of Russian Finland. The tn. was at one time the cap. of Finland, as it now is of the dist. of its own name : on the river Aurajoki, between the gulfs of Bothnia and Finland ; lat. 60 27 N. ; Ion. 22 17 5" E. It was at one time a flourishing place, but had fallen into decay, when a tremendous conflagration, which occurred in Nov. 1827, completed its ruin. On that occasion, nearly the whole city was destroyed, including the university and its valuable library, and other public buildings, together with 786 houses out of 1100. The university, which is now removed to Helsingfors, the Russian cap. of Finland, had, previous to its destruction, 40 professors and several hundred students, a library containing many thousand volumes, a collection of ABOH 1 1 ABROLHOS philosophical instruments, a cabinet of natural history, and an observatory. The town has since been in part rebuilt ; but the houses and public edifices being placed at consider able distances from each other, it covers a great deal more ground than, formerly. Notwithstanding the disaster above mentioned, Abo still has some manufactures, and a consider able trade, particularly in planks, the sawing of which employs many of the people. Shipbuilding, also, is carried on to a considerable extent. The cathedral, though a heavy, ungainly building, is remarkable for its antiquity, and interesting from its associations, having been the cradle of Christianity in Finland. It was greatly injured by the fire in 1827, but has since been restored. The harbour is shallow at the town, but there is depth enough for large vessels 3 m. below ; in conse- quence of the rising of the land along the whole of this coast, Abo is gradually receding from the sea. The district of Abo has an area of 7480 geo. sq. m. Grain, lint, hemp, and tobacco, are cultivated, and cattle are reared. Building tim ber is abundant, as are also limestone, slate, and iron. Pop. of town (1841), 13,050; of district, 200,000. ABOH, a tn., W. Africa, cap. of the Ibo or Eboe kingdom, at the upper end of a creek of the Niger ; lat. 5 40 N. ; Ion. G 35 E. Numerous little creeks lead to the dwellings of the principal men, surrounded by the huts of their dependants, and here their canoes are laid up. There is no regularity observed in the position of the huts, except that they are built on either side of these creeklets, and about 20 to 30 yards apart, having a few palms or banana trees to afford shelter from the burning sun. Each family has one or more canoes. The huts are of a square form, mostly double, placed at right angles, neatly built of mud, and roofed with a com pact matting of dried palm leaves and reeds; the floor is raised a foot and a half. The entrance is square, and serves for the threefold purpose of door, chimney, and window. The houses of wealthier persons are larger, and have many compartments, with a quadrangular court, in which many of the household and cooking operations are carried on. The king s residence is here, and is the largest in the town. Aboh is very unhealthy, particularly on the subsidence of the peri odical floods, when the muddy deposits are exposed to the sun. The people cultivate rice, Indian corn, cassava, bananas, oranges, cocoas, ground nuts, pappaws, Guinea peppers, &c. Domestic slaves are numerous, but they are invariably well treated, and many of them become free. The natives are tall, well made, and muscular, but the hands and feet are large. (Allen s Niger Expedition.) ABOMEY, a tn., W. Africa, cap. of the kingdom of Dahomey, on the coast of Guinea ; lat. 7 40 N. ; Ion. 2 5 E. ; situated in an indifferently watered plain of rich red loam. There being almost no stone to be found nearer thr.n the Kong mountains, distant upwards of 60 m., like other Dahoman towns, it is built of clay. The town is walled, and the houses seldom exceed one floor in height. Mr. Duncan, who visited it in 1845, thus describes one of the king s palaces, which may probably be taken as a favourable type of Dahoman houses in general : After passing through two quadrangles | of about GO yards by 30, we entered the principal square. This square is formed of three sides of houses or long sheds ; and on the opposite side to the principal part, or side, is a high wall of clay, with human skulls placed at short intervals on the top. This palace, for the king has many, is divided into different apartments, all on the ground floor ; for though the ridge of the roof is of sufficient height for two stories, yet the thatch is brought down so low as to reach to within 4 ft. of the ground. Along the front is a low piazza, extending the whole length of the building. The main entrance is in the centre of the side of the square. The human sacrifices at one time common here, and throughout Dahomey, have been in a great measure abolished, being now tolerated only in the case of criminals condemned to death for offences of the gravest description. A court of appeal, in which the king usually presides, has been established, which has greatly contributed to put down the oppression frequently exercised upon the people by the local governors (caboceers). Natives from all parts of central Africa are to be met with in Abomey, which is much resorted to for traffic in slaves, and to a less extent for traffic in palm oil and ivory, all of which are shipped at Whydah, distant about 90 m. S. Pop about 24,000. (Duncan s Tra vels in Western Africa, ABONY, ABANY, or SZOT.NOK-ABOXY, a market tn. Hungary, district of, and 50 m. S.E. Pesth, near the Zagyva. It lies in a plain, between Tapjo-Szellc and Toriik Szt. Miklos, on the road from Gyongyos to Debreczin, near Szolnok. It has a K. Catholic and a Protestant church. Pop. 9000. ABOUK1R. 1, A bay on the N. coast of Egypt, of a semicircular form, and spacious, stretching from Aboukir Point, on the W., to the Kosetta mouth of the Nile, on the E., a distance of about 23 m. It is chiefly remarkable as the scene of the decisive Battle of the Nile, in which Rear-Admiral Nelson, on August 1, 1798, with 14 ships of the line, destroyed the French fleet under Brueys. 2, A small town and castle, on a point of land stretching into the Mediterranean, and forming the western boundary of the bay, lat. (castle) 31 20 30" N. ; Ion. 30 5 7" E. (K.) It lies near the site of the ancient Canopus, where the god Serapis was worshipped, and to which the inhabitants of Alexandria resorted for the purposes of dissipation and debauchery. The castle was strongly fortified by Mehemet Ali, and used by him as a state prison, substituting confine ment therein for the punishment of death. On March 8, 1801, the British army, under Sir Ralph Abcrcromby, effected a landing at Aboukir, in the face of a tremendous fire from the French; and on the 13th, succeeded in driving them from a strong position on the adjacent heights, towards Alex andria. (Wilkinson s Modem Egypt.) 3, An islet in the bay of Aboukir, called also NELSON S ISLAND, 3 m. E. from the town, and connected with the shore by a sunken reef. It contains some remarkable antiquities, part of which are now under water. Among these have been noticed paved floors of buildings, arched chambers lined with stucco, &c. ; and a singular subterranean passage, open towards the N., leading to apartments which have an aperture at top, level with the highest part of the island. The whole surface is described as covered with various plants, especially a superb species of lily; and the sands of the shore contain those beauti ful shells used as earrings by the Maltese sailors. ABOYNE, a par. Scotland, co. Aberdeen ; 4 m. long by 3 broad. Pop. in 1841, 1138. ABKANTES, a tn. Brazil, prov. of, and 28 m. N.E. Bahia, and about 4 from the sea. It has a church and two schools ; and the inhabitants for the most part Indians culti vate mandioca, and occupy themselves in fishing and the chase. The soil in the vicinity is fertile. Pop. 2000. ABRANTES [Latin, Alrantium], a fortified tn. Por tugal, prov. Lower Beira, on the right bank of the Tagus ; 73 m. N.E. Lisbon. It is situated upon a rising ground, surrounded by gardens, vineyards, and olive plantations. It is the entrepot for part of the productions of the provinces of Alemtejoand Beira, and carries on an active traffic with Lisbon, to which it sends considerable quantities of corn and oil, witli melons, peaches, olives, and other fruits and vegetables; in which trade more than 100 barges are constantly employed. It contains an old castle, four parish churches, and four con vents one of which, that of San Vinccnte, is the largest and finest in Portugal an hospital, and an old almshousc. Abrantes gave the title of duke to Junot, one of Napoleon s generals. At the capitulation of Cintra, it was surrendered to the British. Pop. 4647. ABRESCIIEWILLER, a com. and vil. France, dcp. Meurthe, 8 m. from Sarrebourg. Saw, paper, and meal mills, &c. Pop. 2082. ABRIOLA, a tn. Naples, prov. Basilicata, 9 m. S. Po- tenza ; on a steep rock, in a healthy and fertile district. Pop. 3000. ABROBANYA, or ABRUD-BANYA fin German, Gross- scldattcn], a market tn. Transylvania, 23 m. N.W. Karls, burg, with a German (reformed), a Wallachian, a Greek, and a K. catholic church. The most of the inhabitants who are composed of Hungarians, Germans, and Wallachians are employed in the neighbouring gold and silver mines, supposed to have been wrought by the Romans, and to have procured for the place the name of Auraria Magna. In the town, there is a board of directors for the management of the mines. The ore, after being separated from the earth with which it is mixed, is sent to the furnace at Zalathna. Pop. 4000. ABROLHOS. 1, A cape on the coast of Brazil, prov. Porto Segura, between the rivers Pcruhipe and Caravellas ; lat. 17 58 S.; Ion. 38 42 W. Off this point, in the ABEUD-BANYA 18 ABUBHIE Atlantic, about 50 m. from the sliore, lie the four small but | S. by Yemen, and W. by the Red Sea. It is about four days dangerous rocky islands, or shoals, of Santa Barbara, com- I journey long, by about two broad, and consists chiefly of a nionly called the ABROLHOS. They are projections from a j sandy plain, nearly sterile bank of rocks, which exhibits itself occasionally between 17 and 25 S. lat., at a distance of from 6 to 30 m. from the mainland. They are described by Capt. Fitzroy as rather low, but covered with grass, with a little scattered brushwood ; the highest rising about 100 ft. above the sea, and the sound ings in their vicinity so very irregular, that little dependence can be placed on the lead. The centre island of this shoal is laid down in lat. 17 51 S. ; Ion. 38 41 30" W. 2, There is another reef of the same name (Houtinan s ABHOLHOS), off the W. coast of Australia; lat. 28 30 S.; 113 30 E. In some of the islands forming this group, Capt. Stokes found traces of guano. (Jour. Geo. -Sbc., ii. 315.) ABRUD-BANYA. See ABROBANYA. ABRUZZO, a territory, kingdom of Naples, of which it forms the N. extremity; bounded on the N. and W. by the Papal States, N.E. by the Adriatic, E. and S.E. by the prov. of Sannio, and S. by Savora. It is divided into three districts or provinces Abruzzo Ulteriore I., Abruzzo Ulteriore II., and Abruzzo Citeriore, so called from their respective relative positions to Naples ; and when spoken of in the plural number, called, collectively, the Abruzzi. The first comprises 1143 sq. m., (vith upwards of 175,000 inhabitants; the second, 2220 sq. m., with about 260,000 inhabitants; and the third, or Abruzzo Citeriore, 1700 sq. m., with about 260,000 inhabi tants also. The entire territory is traversed by the Apennines, i .nd is throughout extremely rugged and mountainous ; Abruzzo Citeriore so much so, as to present the most serious obstacles to internal communication. The sea-coast of the Abruzzi, 011 the Adriatic, is about 80 m. in length, and is without a .single harbour. Most of its rivers, which are numerous, fall into the sea just named. The celebrated Lago Celano, the Lacus Fucinus of the ancients, is in Abruzzo Ulteriore II. ; it is about 15 m. in length, with a breadth of 5 or 6, and is chiefly remarkable for rises and falls, the causes of which are unknown ; and for its association with the name of the emperor Claudius, who cut a canal in order to prevent the lake over flowing a work in which 30,000 men were employed for 1 1 years. Both the soil and climate of the Abruzzi are various; the latter differing with the elevation of the former, being cold on the mountains, and hot on the low grounds. Though the highlands are sufficiently barren, the plains and valleys are fertile, producing large quantities of corn, wine, oil, liquorice, almonds, saffron, &c. The mountains are covered with numerous flocks of sheep, the rearing and tending of which, and other domestic animals, forms the chief em ployment of the inhabitants ; whose nomadic habits, natural indolence, and want of education, cause them to neglect the cultivation of the soil, and to prefer sloth and poverty to exertion and competence. They are tall and robust in person, fond of pleasure, but sullen and revengeful in disposition, and were formerly much noted for their predatory propen sities. Manufactures are almost unknown in the Abruzzi, nothing being produced but some woollens, silks, and a little earthenware ; their only commerce is in the export of sheep and cattle. ABTHORPE, a par. and vil. England, co. Northampton ; area, 1960 ac. Pop. in 1841, 449. ABU, or ABOO. 1, A remarkable mountain, N. Hindustan, prov. Ajmeer, or Rajpootana, principality of Marwar, or Lood- poor, G5 in. W. by N. Odeypoor ; lat. 24 45 N. ; Ion. 72 50 E. It is the highest peak in the Aravulli range, and is stated to be 5000 ft. in height, as indicated by the barometer. The temperature on the summit is said to be so mild, that European fruits and shrubs grow on it readily. A Hindu tradition alleges that the hill was brought by the sage Vasishta, from the Himalayas, a distance of somewhere about 700 m., that he might continue his devotions on the spot he had been accustomed to. 2, A volcano, on the E. side of the island of Sangir, in the Indian Archipelago. It is the loftiest mountain on the island, lies near the coast, and is visi ble from a considerable distance. It is continually smoking, and has, on several occasions, caused great destruction by its eruptions. ABU ARISH, a petty state, Arabia, cap. same name, on the Red Sea, between lat. 15 50 and 17 40 N.,and forming a part of Yemen. It is bounded, N. by Hejaz, E. by Asyr, on the coast and towards the centre, but more fruitful in the direction of the mountains, which form its E. boundary. Winter is dry ; but in the warm season, which is almost insupportable to Europeans, there are daily rains, frequently accompanied by storms of wind. The country has no streams, and few wells; yet the rain water is not collected into tanks, but allowed to spread over the land without any attempt at systematic irrigation. Durra, or Indian millet, is here, as elsewhere throughout Arabia, the principal cereal cultivated. The Indian cotton plant is also grown ; the Mecca balsam is plentiful ; and in the gardens, senna, colocynth, bananas, &c., are raised. The country is covered by small groups of trees of from 50 to 150, so over grown with parasitical plants as to present almost impene trable thickets. By beating the twigs of a tree called mossuak, the Bedouins form a pencil, with which they lay on their tongue and rub on their teeth a kind of finely powdered tobacco, named Bortugal, which is enjoyed both by males and females in Abu Arish, with a similar relish to that which, in other parts of the world, attaches to smoking, eating opium, and chewing betel. Gazelles and hares are numerous, wild cats and rats plentiful, and scorpions are not uncommon. Sheep, a beautiful breed of goats, splendid horses, zebras, camels, and dromedaries, constitute the principal native riches. The chief takes the title of Sherif. (Hitter s Erdkunde.) ABU ARISH, a tn. Arabia, cap. of state of same name, about 20 m. E. the Ked Sea ; lat. 17 40 N. ; Ion. 40 25 E. ; 90 m. N. Loheia. It is walled, and lies in the middle of an extensive plain, covered with the mossuak tree and jasmin bushes. Its castle, Deir-el-Nasr, is high, well built, and strong; but the palace of the Sherif is merely a large hut, internally decorated with mother-of-pearl. The town has some miserable- looking mosques, one minaret, and some deep wells. The inhabitants, who are poorly clad, carry on a little trade; and the bazaar, and the narrow streets leading to it, are dirty. Pop. 7000 to 8000. (Ritter.) ABU GIRGEH, or ABOO GIRO, a large Fellah tn. of Middle Egypt, about 2 m. W. the Nile, 50 m. S. Bcni Sooef; lat. 28 30 N. ; Ion. 30 50 E. It is situated in a rich plain, at a spot where several extensive mounds point out the site of an ancient city, the name of which is unknown. ABULLIONTE, a tn. Asiatic Turkey, on an isl. in a lake of same name, 15 m. S. the Sea of Marmora; lat. 40 8 N.; Ion. 28 32 E. It is said to consist of 200 Greek, and 100 Turkish houses, and entirely covers the island on which it is built. It is defended by a wall, and contains a ruined castle, apparently Byzantine, chiefly constructed with large blocks of marble, derived from more ancient buildings. The island on which the town stands, is connected with the mainland by a wooden bridge, of simple and slight construction. Abullionte occupies, according to Mr. Hamilton, the site of Apollonia ad Rhyndacum. The lake, 16m. long by 1 1 broad, is celebrated for its carp, which are taken in great quantities, and sent as far as Constantinople. Pop. 2000. (Hamilton s Asia Minor.) ABU-MANAH, a vil. Upper Egypt, on the declivity of a hill, about 3 m. E. from the Nile, and 30 S.E. Girgeh. ABU-MANDUR, a vil. and convent on the left bank of the Bolbitine branch of the Nile, about 2 m. above Rosetta. The convent which is prettily situated close by the river, and adorned with palm trees is supposed, by Denon, to indi cate the site of the ancient city of Bolbitinum. It was from its tower, where he happened accidentally to be, that the French savant saw Nelson s fleet approaching to fight the battle of the Nile. The scenery around this locality is singularly beautiful. ABURY, a par, and vil. England. See AVEBURY. ABUSAMBUL. See IPSAMBDL. ABUSH1K, a vil. Arabia, prov. Oman, 17 m. S-W. Muscat. It lies at the foot of a picturesque range of hills, exhibiting red, gray, yellow, and dark brown peaks, destitute of soil and vegetation. To the N.E. tin ground slopes to a sandy flat, extending to the sea, about 6 m. distant. The village is a miserable place, consisting of mud houses, and date- tree huts, with a few mud towers, looped for defence. The only water here is a warm spring, rising in a cavern in the cal careous rock behind the village, and of a temperature of 1 11 $ Fah. It is used for irrigation, for cooking, and for medicine, ABU SIN 16 ABYSSINIA superstition attributing to it many virtues that it Joes not possess. (Fraser.) ABU SIN or ABBA-SEEN, an affluent of the Upper Indus, from the right. It rises in the mountains of Hindu Rush, ahout hit. 35 20 N. ; Ion. 72 45 E. ; takes a S. course, between lofty mountains, and falls into the Indus near Mullai ; lat. 34 40 N ; Ion. 7*3 E. It is a considerable stream, bringing down drift-wood, and is not fordable. The hills and valleys around yield gold dust. The Afghans erroneously consider it the head stream of the Indus. (Hitter.) ABU-SYR, ABOUSIR, or ABOOSEER, the name of several places in Lower Egypt, of which the most remarkable are a vil. in the Delta, and a fortified tower on the coast of the Mediterranean. The former, 7% m. S. the great pyramid, and about 60 N. Cairo, lies on the left bank of the Damietta branch of the Kile, near the site of the ancient Eusiris, where are various mounds and other relics of anti quity, but none meriting particular notice. The latter, called also the Arab Tower, is situated near the S.W. extremity of the lake Mareotis, probably not far from the ancient Taposiris, and is the first elevated object seen by mariners in approaching Egypt from the W. ABUTIGE, ABOOTEEGE, or ABOOTIDJ [the Abutis of Latin writers, and Apotliyke or Tapothyke of the Copts], an inconsiderable tn. Upper Egypt, on the left bank of the Nile ; lat. 27 2 N. ; Ion. 31 25 E. So early as the time of Abulfeda, the poppy was much cultivated in the vicinity, and is still grown there. The place is noted for the quality of the opium it produces. ABY, a par. England, co. Lincoln; area, 1560 ac. Pop. in 1841, 312. ABYDOS, or ABYDAS, an ancient city, Anatolia, which once stood on the E. shore of the Dardanelles, at the narrowest part of the strait, opposite Sestos. Originally, it belonged to a Trojan prince, and subsequently was inhabited by the Thracians and Milesians. Xerxes here built his bridge of boats for the invasion of Greece ; and here Alexander and his army crossed from Europe to Asia. Leander, say ancient writers, swam nightly from Abydos to Sestos to see his loved Hero; a feat in swimming once successfully accomplished also by Lord Byron, at the expense of a severe attack of ague. A few fragments of walls are all that now remain of this city, whose site is partly occupied by the Turkish fort Avido the only stronghold on the Dardanelles capable of defence on the land side. ABYDUS, or ABYDAS [the modern Arabat el Matfoon and Ebot of the Copts], an ancient city, Upper Egypt, about 6 m. W. the Nile; lat. 26 12 N.; Ion. 32 E.; on the great canal called the Bahr Yoosef. Even in the time of Strabo, Abydus was reduced to a mere village, yet its ruins still testify its former grandeur. It was a residence of the Egyp tian monarchs, and the reputed burying-place of the god Osiris ; in consequence of which belief, the bodies of many Egyptians were brought from a great distance, in order to be interred within its sacred precincts. The Memnonium, or palace of Memnon, and the temple of Osiris, constitute the c hief remains of this once magnificent city. In the former of these, in 1818, W. J. Bankes discovered the famous Abydus tablet, now in the British Museum, on which are engraved a genealogical list of the Pharaohs. In a cemetery to the N. of Abydus, are various antique sepulchral monuments ; and on the N.W. are limestone quarries. (Wilkinson s Modern Egypt.} ABYLA, or APES HILL, the N. termination on the S. side of the strait of Gibraltar, near Ceuta, of a range of mountains in Morocco, and forming one of the pillars of Hercules. ABYSSINIA, or HABESH, an ancient kingdom of E. Africa, but which, being now broken up into several inde pendent states, has no longer any political existence. Its limits have been variously defined by different authorities, hardly any two agreeing as to what these limits precisely are ; but they may be generally stated as extending between lat. 7 25 and 16 40 N.; and Ion. 35 and 43 20 E., having Nubia N. and W., the lied Sea and strait of Bab-el-Mandcb E., and to the S. the unknown countries stretching to the Indian Ocean. The entire length of the kingdom from N. to S. is about 670 m., its breadth from E. to W., at the broadest part, about 540- The principal divisions of Abyssinia are called, respectively, Dankali, Adel, Tigre, Amhara, and Slioa (att of which see). The last of these, Shoa, is rapidly becom ing a great and important kingdom. Some extensive but little-known tracts on the S. and S.E., inhabited by the Galla tribes, and comprehending the province of Mera, and a great forest on the N., abounding in elephants, complete the occu pation of the whole space embraced by the limits generally assigned to Abyssinia. The more marked physical features of the country may be described, generally, as consisting of a vast series of table lands of various, and often of great eleva tions, and of numerous ranges of high and rugged mountains, some of them of very singular forms, dispersed over the surface in apparently the wildest confusion. Enclosed in these mountains are prodigious and inexhaustible natural repositories of water, which, pouring down by the deep and tremendous ravines that everywhere intersect them, impart an extraordinary fertility to the plains and valleys below. The country thus presents the sterner features of mountain scenery, combined with the luxuriance of tropical vegetation. The chasms or rents that occur in the plateaux are often of appalling depth, and are rendered more hideous by their impenetrable gloom, their summits frequently not being more than 200 or 300 yards asunder. Harris, describing one of these fearful ravines, says, Masses of basalt, of a dark burnt brown colour, are piled perpendicularly on either side like solid walls ; and rising from a very narrow channel, strewed with blocks of stone and huge fallen fragments of rock, tower over head to the height of 500 or 600 ft. One perilous path, afford ing barely sufficient width for a camel s tread, leads twisting away into the gloomy depths below. On emerging from these tremendous chasms, the traveller is surprised to find a level plain spread out on either side, instead of the lofty mountains, or steep ascents that usually overlook the deep ravines of other lands. This singularity forms one of the peculiar physical features of Abyssinia, and imparts to its great water-courses the appearance rather of enormous rents than of natural depressions. It must he observed, however, that these apparent plains are not the low levels usually un derstood by that term, but lofty table lands, many thousand feet above the sea. The mountain scenery of Abyssinia is thus, as might be expected, on the most stupendous scale, including waterfalls of prodigious height. In the dry season, these falls, from their great elevation, descend in mere spray ; but, during the rains, present a magnificent spectacle. Not- Avithstanding, however, the wild and rugged appearance of the country generally, it contains numerous valleys and plains of unequalled beauty and fertility, rich in all the most valued productions of the earth. Many of these favoured districts are spoken of with rapture by travellers, both as regards the luxuriance of their vegetation, and the salubrity of their cli mates. The most extensive is the plain of the Dembea, emphatically called the granary of the country, where there reigns a perpetual spring. Geology. The geological structure of Abyssinia presents a granite base, with a superstructure of sandstone, and occa sionally limestone, schist, and breccia. The granite conies to the surface in the lower parts of the country; but sandstone predominates in the upper, and assumes a tabular form, often lying on the tops of the mountains in enormous flat masses. Large tracts are of ancient volcanic rocks. Of this character is a great portion of the country lying between Tajura and Ankober, in the S.E. part of Abyssinia, and extending over a space of about 200 m. in length from N.E. to S.W. Throughout nearly the whole of this tract, volcanic ridges are everywhere present. Small cones, each showing a distinct crater, are numerous, and the surface of the sheets of lava with which the plains below are overspread, still retains a fresh and glossy appearance, although there has been no volcanic action in this part of the world for unnumbered centuries. Mountains and Table Lands. The most remarkable anu j loftiest summits occur in the centre of the N. part of the king- I dom, in the prov. of Samen, immediately to the W. of the ] river Tecazze. The highest of these, called Amba Hai, is supposed, from the circumstance of its summit being covered with perpetual snow, to have an elevation of at least 16,000 ft. About 15m. N.E. of this mountain, is mount Beyed, whose summit is also covered with perpetual snow, and whose height, therefore, though not positively ascertained, cannot be much less than that of the former. On the N.E. part of the king- ABYSSINIA L7 ABYSSINIA dom, a long range of barren hills runs parallel with, and at a distance of about 40 m. from the shores of the Red Sea, forming the W. boundary of Dankali. It does not attain any great altitude, the highest peaks not exceeding 1000 ft., while the general elevation is not more than 500. In Shoa, the mountain chains run chiefly N. and S., and reach generally an elevation of from 8000 to 9000 ft.; but many of their single pinnacles greatly exceed that height. They are abrupt, diffi cult of access, and intersected by numerous deep chasms. These mountains exhibit a structure of basalt, wacke, and trachyte; the latter in all its varieties. The table lands of Abyssinia form one of its most remarkable physical char acteristics, and are distinguished from all other elevated table lands by the great depression of their water-channels. They consist of a succession of elevated, undulating plains, many of which are 7000 and 8000 ft. above the level of the sea, and are intersected by narrow valleys, or water-courses, 3000 and 4000 ft. deep. This elevated country has lakes, swamps, verdant meadows, and cultivated land, producing various grains, and occasionally coffee; but the higher plains, from their great elevation, yield barley only. The most remark able of these table lands occur in the provinces, Amhara, Tigre, and Shoa. Rivers and Lakes. The principal river of Abyssinia is the Bahr-el-Azrek, or Blue River (see AZKEK, BAHR-EL-). It is one of the great branches of the Nile, and rises under the name of the Dedhesa, in the Galla country, S. of Abyssinia, about 73 m. W. Sokka, the cap. of Enarea, and joins the Bahr-el- Abiad, or White River (see ABIAD, BAHK-EI,-), the chief branch of the Nile, at Khartoom ; lat. 14 40 N.; Ion. 32 39 E. The next considerable stream is the Tecazze, or Takkazie, which has its rise in the mountains of Lasta, about lat. 11 30 N. ; Ion. 39 20 E. ; it pursues a N.W. course, and finally joins the Nile, under the name of the Atbara, at Adamer, in lat. 1740 N. Its bottom is extremely narrow compared with the size of the river. Bruce describes it as being shaded with fine lofty trees, the water remarkably clear, and the banks adorned with the most fragrant flowers. It takes its name, Tecazze The Terrible, from its impetuosity. The Hawash (which sec), the third, or, according to Harris, the second largest river of Abyssinia, rises to the S. of the Chakha mountains, the larger branch proceeding from Lake Zawaja, about lat. 8 40 N. ; Ion. 39 E. ; at an elevation of 8000 ft. above the sea. Skirting the S.E. limits of the kingdom of Shoa, it pursues a N. and E. direction to about Ion. 42 E., where it is lost in the sands, or led oft in canals by the natives, after running a course of about 240 m. in length. The banks are beautifully wooded along the whole length of the stream, which may be traced by the luxuriant vegetation that marks its route through a treeless and barren land. This river is the recipient of the waters which come from the E. declivity of the table land of A byssinia. The Abai or Abay (which see) , is also a large stream, being the the principal tributary of the Bahr-el-Azrek, or Blue River. The Anazo, likewise a con siderable river, rises on the confines of Tigre, crosses the country in an E. direction towards the Sea of Bab-el-Mandeb, which, however, it never reaches, sinking, like the Hawash, into the sand when within about 20 m. of the coast; its entire length is about 200 m. In the earlier part of their courses, while flowing over the level surfaces of the table lands, the rivers of Abyssinia are little better than muddy brooks, which in the dry season nearly disappear altogether; but, during the rains, overflow their banks and inundate the plains for mil Where they begin to break from the level, which they do by fissures in the rocky surface, at first only a few yards in width, but gradually opening to the extent of several miles, they at once form cataracts of SO or 100 ft. in height, and in some cases much more, and then continue down a succession of falls and rapids, so as to descend several thousand feet in the course of a few miles. The principal lakes of Abyssinia are the Tzana Zana, or Dembea (which see), in the territory of Amhara, a large and beautiful sheet of water, at a height of upwards of 6000 ft. above the sea. According to Arrowsmith s map, it is about 60 m. in length from N.W. to S.E., and about 40 in breadth. Bruce makes it only 45 m. long and 35 broad During the rains, it overflows its banks, and lays the low coun try around it under water to the distance of 2 m. It contains a number of pretty large islands, most of which are inhabited abounds with fish of various kinds, and is much frequentei VOL. I. by hippopotami. The next most important lake is Haik, in the province of Amhara, on the N. confines of Shoa ; it is about 45 m. in circumference, has several bays, and contains an island called Debra Nayoodquad, almost square in form, with a monastery on it, called St. Stephen s, and 100 houses, and distant from the mainland about 260 yards. On the E. and S. there are steep mountains, but on the N. and W. the shores are low. The other lakes of considerable extent are, Ashan- gee, in Tigre, about 30 m. long by 15 broad; Zawaja, near the S. boundary of the kingdom; Lugh a Summa, about 100 m. N.W. from the former; and the remarkable salt lake, Assal (which see). Mineralogy. Abyssinia, so far as known, is not remarkable or its minerals, neither precious metals nor precious stones laving yet been discovered in it ; the gold which is brought ;hrough it being all from the barbarous and unknown coun tries to the S. and W. Among the useful mineral products are iron, sulphur, coal, and salt. The iron is found chiefly in he high plateaux, the sulphur in the hills of Sallala, where he pits are described as being exceedingly copious. Coal beds appear to extend along the whole of the E. frontier of Shoa, but the combustible nature of that fossil is scarcely cnown in the country. Salt is obtained in great abundance from a salt plain on the S.E. border of Tigre, and from lake Assal. The former is said to be four days journey in length. The salt near the surface is pure and hard, but beneath it is coarser, and requires some exposure to the air before it har dens. In some parts, the incrustation is 3 ft. deep ; but, in general, at the depth of 2 ft., it is too much mixed with earth ;o be fit for use in its native state. It is cut into long flat pieces by the Abyssinians, and is used as a medium of exchange. A few hot mineral springs are known and made use of in Efiit and Giddem. Climate. The climate of Abyssinia is as various as its sur face. In the valleys, it is delightful; but on the mountains exceedingly cold, hoar frost being met with on many of their summits in the latter end of the year, and the country around presenting the bleak and barren appearance, and scantiness of vegetation, of extreme northern regions. In other places the heat is intense, especially on the borders of the Red Sea, nd in the S. parts of the kingdom, where the feeling of oppres sion, occasioned by the excessive heat, is frequently increased by hot simooms, which raise the thermometer, in the shade, to 126, the usual height being about 110. The mean tem perature at AnkcTbar, the capital of Shoa, in June 1842, was, according to Major Harris, 62 1 ; and in January of the same year, 52 In the lower districts, the intensity of the heat gives rise to noxious exhalations, which occasion numer ous fatal diseases. The rains, always accompanied by tre mendous tempests, begin in June, and continue till September, during which period they are so violent as to put a stop to agricultural labour, and all other out-door operations. But after they have ceased, Pastures and meadows are clothed in cheering green ; the hills and dales are adorned with myriads of beautiful and sweet-scented flowers, and the sides of the mountain ranges become one sheet of the most luxuriant vege tation. (Harris, vol. iii. p. 273.) The finest months of the year are those of December and January. Vegetable Productions. Although situated within the tro pics, the vegetable productions of Abyssinia are nearly those of the temperate zone. The principal grains are millet, barley, wheat, maize, and ttff. The wheat is of the finest description, and the bread made from it has been praised by all travellers who have visited the country. Teff (Poa Abyssinica), a very small seed, is a favourite with all Abyssinians. The bread made from it is soft and spongy, with a sourish taste, and is said to be unwholesome, though not unpleasant to the taste. There are four varieties of this grain, two brown and two white; the latter is the finest and the most esteemed. Great trouble is taken to improve the cultivated sorts of grain, by changing the seed-corn at every season, and sometimes by sowing promiscuously different sorts to produce new varieties. The result is a prodigious diversity; there being no fewer than 24 varieties of wheat, and 16 of barley. Two crops are obtained yearly, the seed being sown in one field while the crop is being gathered in the next. In some places there are three harvests within the year. Large quantities of a plant called ensete, resembling the banana, are raised and used as bread ; it is said to be extremely agreeable. The leguminous ABYSSINIA Al .YSSINIA vegetables most extensively grown are beans, lupines, lentils, | and a kind of vetch. Flax and cotton are cultivated in some | places to a small extent. Vines, also, are raised, and a little wine made. The finest grapes are grown to the E. of Lake Tzana, or Dembea. Coffee and sugar cane are likewise culti vated, but the former is not much esteemed, being of inferior quality ; and the latter is merely chewed, the art of making sugar being unknown. Citrons, oranges, and figs are met with. The woods of Abyssinia, some of which are magnificent, contain sycamores of great size, many measuring upwards of 40 ft. in circumference; they contain, also, beautiful specimens of the acacia. Zoology. The domestic animals consist of horses, cattle, ] sheep, goats, mules, and asses. The horses are small, but j strong and active; the cattle and goats are generally small i in stature, of all colours, and have very large horns; the sheep have a white body, black head and neck, are covered with hair, and have thick, short, fat tails; male without horns. The shepherd dogs are small, spotted with yellow and white, , and have long pointed skulls like the fox. Mules, camels, ; and asses are the usual beasts of burden, the horses being generally reserved for war and the chase. Vast herds of oxen, \ often amounting to many thousands, are met with throughout the country. The oxen reared on the low grounds, called the Galla ox, have horns of immense size. The wild animals are j the lion, elephant, hippopotamus, rhinoceros, crocodile, buf- I falo, hyena, leopard, boar, antelope, zebra, quagga, giraffe, i and gazelle. Lions are not numerous, being but rarely met with. Elephants abound in the N. and S. borders of the coun try, particularly in the extensive forests lying N. of Tigre. The hippopotamus, as elsewhere stated, abounds in Lake Tzana, or Dembea, where, as in other places, great numbers are killed annually for their flesh and hides. The rhinoceros, like the elephant, inhabits the low, moist grounds, and is numerous in certain districts. A two-horned rhinoceros is met with but rarely. Crocodiles are found in various rivers in Abyssinia; but the largest, and most dreaded by the natives, are those that inhabit the Tecazze ; these are of a greenish colour, and of formidable size. The buffalo, a comparatively harmless animal in other countries, is here extremely ferocious, and will often attack travellers. Hyenas and leopards are numer ous, especially the former; but, according to the account of Isenberg and Krapfs guide, they never inhabit the same region the leopard dreading the superior strength and fero city of the hyena, although the former will attack man, while the latter flees from him. The antelope is rarely met with in the cultivated districts, but abounds in those that are uncul tivated, especially near rivers. Among the quadrumana are a remarkably long-eared ape, and the species of monkey called tnacac, or macaque, which inhabits the lofty mountains of S. Abyssinia, at a height of 8000 ft. above the level of the sea. The smaller animals comprise porcupines, rock rabbits, ground squirrels, ferrets, polecats, and otters. Serpents are numer ous, and some of them of great size. Amongst the latter is the boa, which often attains a length of 20 ft. The varieties of birds are also great, and include eagles, vultures, Alpine ravens, parrots, herons, Guinea fowls, partridges, quails, snipes, larks, and pigeons. There are, likewise, various kinds of water-fowl to be met with on the lakes and swamps. Bees are numerous, honey being a general article of food ; locusts often lay the land waste, and the saltsalya a fly a little larger than a bee causes whole tribes to change their residence through terror of its sting, of which even the lion, it is said, stands in dread. Manufactures. The Abyssinians have made considerable progress in manufactures, and excel in the tanning of skins. Axes, ploughshares, and spearheads are made at several places ; and swordblades, knives, scissors, and razors, at Goudar and at Kiaratza. Large quantities of coarse cotton cloth are manufactured in different parts of the country by women ; and a finer kind, with a red or blue border, for the more wealthy classes. A coarse stuff, for counterpanes, is made from the wool and hair of the black sheep and goats. Coarse black pottery is made in all parts of the country. Races, Reliyion, Manners, Customs, &c. The population of Abyssinia is composed of various tribes, all of which have been referred by Kiippell to three races. The first, which comprises a majority of the people, is a well-formed Caucasian lace, with features identical with those of the Bcduin Arabsj oval countenance, fine sharp nose, well-proportioned regular mouth; the lips not in the least turned up; lively eyes; hair somewhat curled, at times smooth; and medium size of body. To this race belong the inhabitants of N. Amhara and Tigre , the Falashas or Jews, the Gamant, and the Agows. The second race, which is Ethiopia, has less sharpness of the nose, which, in fact, is slightly curved ; thick lips; lengthened and not very fiery eye; and very much curled, nearly woolly, hair. This race is met with chiefly on the coast, and along the N. frontier of Abyssinia. The third race is the Galla trib es, inhabiting S. Shoa, and dispersed among the soldiery over the whole country. They have the countenance more rounded, the nose straight, and separated from the forehead by a deep indentation; thick, but not negro, lips; nearly woolly hair; small, deeply sunk, but very bright eyes; and a tolerably firmly built, and large body. All the inhabit ants, to whatever race they belong, vary in colour from a dark brown to a yellow brown, compared by Bruce to pale ink. There are no negroes in Abyssinia except the slaves, who are likewise the only blacks in the country. The accom panying cut represents a chief and soldiers. The chief, on ABYSSINIAN CHIi:F AND SOLDIERS. From RUppell, Reise in Aliyssinien. horseback, has his brow bound with a thin red band, in token of having slain an enemy in battle ; over his shoulders are a sheep s skin, and a large cotton covering; for stirrup he has only a small ring, into which he inserts the great toe; the horse s neck is decorated with an ornament made from the mane of a zebra. The soldier with the musket is known to be a Galla, by his tight trousers, and cast of countenance. His sabre-knife, according to the custom of the country, is bound on the right side; and his girdle is formed of cartridges, made from reed stems. The soldier with the spear is clothed in a cotton covering, and a black sheep s skin; on his left arm is a round leathern shield, to the centre of which, by way of ornament, has been fastened the skin of a species of monkey (Colubus gueraza), formerly much prized for this purpose, but now less used, it having been found to form an excellent mark for the enemy. Both soldiers have the hair dressed in twisted curls, hanging parallel to each other, in a style similar to what is seen in the sculptures lately excavated at Nineveh. As often as possible, the locks are smeared with butter, which is prevented from trickling down when melted, by a narrow stripe of cotton cloth bound round the head. The butter serves the double purpose of protecting the head from the sun s rays, and against the attacks of insects. The Abyssiuians are profligate and sensual, and given to many vices, but they are not without some redeem ing traits, of which charity to the poor, and hospitality to the stranger, are the most conspicuous. The cruelty of which they have been accused, has been denied by Gobat, who discredits Bruce s assertion that they cut pieces of flesh from the living animal, and says that the natives manifested the utmost horror when he mentioned it. The same authority adds, that in war they scarcely ever kill a prisoner; and, when sure of victory, use every means to avoid destroying those who still resist. The benefit of this exculpatory testimony, ABYSSINIA 19 ACAPULCO however, cannot certainly be extended eitlicr to the Dankali or Galla tribes, both of which are notorious for ferocity and cruelty. The Abyssinians are irritable, but easily conciliated. The religions of Abyssinia are Christianity which became the national religion in the fourth century Islamism, and Judaism. The Christians are divided into three hostile parties, all deeply sunk in superstition. They baptize their male children after 40 days, and their female after 80. They attach great importance to fasting, and have preserved many Jewish customs. The Mahometans entertain little zeal for the religion they profess, few of them having the least know ledge of the Koran, though fond of quoting its marked expressions. They live on good terms with the Christians, but are greatly inferior to them in morality. The Jews live chiefly in the neighbourhood of Gondar and Shelga, and to the N.W. of Lake Dembea. They are extremely ignorant, but are much more laborious than the other Abyssinians. They never carry arms, either for attack or defence, and maintain their own poor, none of whom they will allow to beg. In nearly all the provinces and districts, marriages are performed with great simplicity, and are as easily dissolved ; but after a third divorce, men can neither contract another regular marriage nor receive the sacrament, unless they become monks, of whom there are two classes. In some places, matrimony is solemnized by the church, the contracting parties swearing to abide by each other for life ; but this is of rare occurrence ; while the fidelity with which the vow is kept may be doubted. The servants of Abyssinia, says M. Gobat, are generally more faithful than in Europe; while children are more severely punished by their parents for theft than for any other offence. The barbarous practice of eating raw flesh at their feasts, while it is yet warm and quivering, is one of the most i extraordinary manifestations of their uncivilized condition and brutal propensities. The indecencies, however, which JJruce describes as forming a feature of these feasts, have been denied by both Salt and Gobat. The administration of justice, in Abyssinia, is sufficiently simple, and almost always extremely corrupt. There are no lawyers. If any one has a complaint against another, he will rise before daybreak, in order to go and cry before the house of the governor of his district, till he hears him. Then the accused person is summoned, when the accuser and accused put questions to each other alternately, in the presence of the judge. The sub-governors being easily corrupted by bribes, all important cases are presented to the governor-general, or Dejasmat, who usually gives himself much trouble to discover the truth. (Gobat.) No judge has the power to decide the fate of a murderer, this being left to the will of the relations of the deceased, unless the latter have been a stranger, when the Dejasmat acts the part of prosecutor. The price of a man is 250 dollars. Language. The Gecz language was, anciently, that of Abyssinia, and remained so till the 14th century of the Christian era, when it was supplanted by the Amharic, which is now the prevailing language of the country, and, though spoken in a great variety of dialects, is the only one which has assumed a written form. Its literature, however, is very scanty, there being only, according to Harris, 110 volumes extant in the whole of Abyssinia, and these are nearly all of a theological nature. The ignorance of the nation generally, is deplorable, those children only receiving the rudiments of education who are designed for the service of the church. Writing is a work of great labour in Abyssinia, even to the practised scribe. The dilatory management of his awkward implement is attended with gestures and attitudes the most ludicrous. Under many convulsive twitches of the elbow, the tiny style is carried first to the mouth, and the end being seized between the teeth, is masticated in a sort of mental frenzy. Throughout the duration of this necessary prelimi nary, the narrow strip of dirty vellum is held at arm s length, and viewed askance on every side with looks of utter horror and dismay ; and when, at last, the stick descends to dig its furrow upon the surface, no terrified schoolboy, with the birch of the pedagogue hanging over him, ever took such pains in painting his pothooks, as does the Abyssinian pro fessor of the art of writing in daubing his strange hieroglyphics upon the scroll. (Harris, vol. iii. pp. 180, 181.) After reading this description, it will not surprise the reader to learn tliat 17 years have been employed in transcribing a single MS. The ink used in writing is a mucilage of gum- arabic, mixed with lampblack, which acquires the consistency of printing ink, and retains its intense colour for ages. The pen is the reed used in the East, having no nib, and the inkstand the sharp end of a cow s horn, stuck in the ground, the writer squatting beside it. History. The Abyssinians were converted to Christianity in the time of the emperor Constantino, by some missionaries sent from Alexandria. In the sixth century, the power of the sovereigns of their kingdom had attained its height ; but before another had expired, the Arabs had invaded the country, and obtained a footing in Adel, though they were unable to extend their conquests further. For several centuries subsequently, the kingdom continued in a distracted state, being now torn by internal commotions, and now invaded by external enemies. To protect himself from the last, the emperor of Abyssinia applied, about the middle of the 16th centuiy, to the king of Portugal, for assistance, promising, at the same time, implicit submission to the pope. The solicited aid was sent, and the empire saved. The II. catholic priests having now ingratiated themselves with the emperor and his family, endeavoured to induce them to renounce the tenets and rites of the Coptic church, and to adopt those of Rome. This attempt, however, was resisted by the ecclesiastics and the people, and finally ended, after a long struggle, in the expulsion of the E. catholic priests in 1632. The kingdom, however, maintained its integrity and independence till the 16th century, when it was overrun by the Moslems and Gallas, and finally dismembered. It now consists, as elsewhere mentioned, of a number of petty independent states, the principal of which are enumerated and referred to at the beginning of this article. The princes of the blood-royal now wander over the country unheeded and unmolested, attaching themselves to any chief who may be willing to countenance and support them. The form, how ever, is still retained of placing the crown upon the brows of a descendant of the ancient line of Solomon, who is content to be a mere puppet in the. hands of the temporary minister, enjoying a stipend of 300 dollars per annum, with some paltry revenues. (Harris, voL iii. p. 10.) Some account of the commerce of Abyssinia will be found in the notices of the different provinces, particularly Shoa. Pop. estimated at from 4,000,000 to 5,000.000. (Harris 1 Highlands of Ethi opia, Johnston s Travels in S. Abyssinia; D Hericourt, Second Voyage dans le pays des Adels et le Royaume de Clioa; Journals of the Rev. Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf; Riippell, ReiscinAbyssinien; Balbi; Sommerville s Physical Geography.) ACAPONETA, or ACOPONETA, a tn. Mexico, prov. Guadalajara, between the rivers St. Pedro and de Canas, about 40 m. from where these united streams fall into the Pacific Ocean It is the chief place of the district, and is about 450 m. N. bj W. Mexico; lat. 22 32 N.; Ion. 105 40 W. It is partly built of mud, with a spacious rural-like square, shaded by fine trees, a quaint old church, and a convent of the order of St. Francisco From an account given of it by Lieut. Wise, of the U. States navy, it seems to be a gay, and somewhat profligate little place. The country around is fertile, and yields the means of subsistence almost spontaneously a circumstance which goes far to account for the hilarity, and entire exemption from care, which seems to be here so general. Cassava, bananas, guavas, melons, and many kinds of fruit, are produced in the vicinity in great abundance. ACAPULCO, or Los REYES, a seaport tn. Mexico, prov. of that name, 180 m. S. by W. from the city of Mexico ; lat. 16 50 48" N. ; Ion. 99 52 W. (11.) The greater part of the town is on the sea-shore. The houses, in consequence of the frequency of earthquakes, are never built above the ground floor ; those of the lower orders are of cane, thatched. Those of the better class are formed of mud and straw, generally from 3 to 4 ft. in thickness in the walls. The latter are generally tiled, to afford ventilation, and avoid insects, which are numerous and troublesome. The market is indifferently supplied ; but fowls, fruit, and vegetables are readily obtained. Human life is held here in little estimation, and a proneness to violence so general, that the inhabitants seldom leave home unarmed. The peasantry also are disarmed before entering the town, and receive their passes and receipts for arms, which are returned on repassing the boundary. At a short distance ACARA ACEBO from the town, on a promontory running into the sea, is situated the castle and fort of San Diego, capable of mounting 00 guns, but little more than half this uumber are actually mounted. The Port of ACAPULCO. The garrison is stated at 500. The fort, though constructed by the best engineers of the day, is unfortunately situated, being commanded by every accessible height in its neighbour hood. The trade of Acapulco was formerly considerable, but is now almost wholly removed to San Bias, prov. Guadalajara, 520 m. to the N. W. It has still, however, a little coasting trade with Lima, Guayaquil, and Callao. The chief exports are cochineal, indigo, silver, and a few skins. The imports are cotton, jewels, raw and prepared silk, and spices. When under Spanish dominion, Acapulco was famous for its trade with the Philippines, and for being the resort of the celebrated Manilla galleons. It was then a place of great note, and remarkable for the high tone of its society, which consisted principally of wealthy Spaniards, who acted as agents for houses in Mexico. All this, however, together with the general prosperity of the place, was annihilated by the edict of 1827, which required all old Spaniards to quit the territory an edict which was enforced with merciless rigour. The ruin of the town has been further promoted by natural visitations earth quakes and inundations of the sea ; no fewer than nine of the former having occurred within little more than a century, namely, between 1732 and 1837. Several of these were so violent as to destroy the town entirely. The last, which occurred in 1837, demolished all the churches, and did not leave a single house undamaged. Some of these visitations were accompanied by sudden influxes of the sea, which, on more than one occasion, covered the Plaza to the depth of 10 ft. The town itself is extremely unhealthy, the air being moist, still, and intolerably hot ; but at a little distance, a refreshing breeze constantly blows. An attempt was made to procure an admission of fresh air into the town, by making ! an artificial opening in the rocks by which it is shut in, but with no perceptible effect. The bay, or harbour, of Acapulco is esteemed one of the finest in the world for its size. It is of easy access, has sufficient depth of water, excellent anchorage, and is perfectly secure, being so completely land-locked that it resembles a mountain lake. On its N. and E. sides, it is shut in by mountains ranging from 2000 to 2700 ft. high ; on the W. by heights varying from 300 to 500 ft. ; and at its entrance, it is protected from the heavy seas of the Pacific, by an island of oblong figure, which forms two mouths, or outlets, the principal of which is on the S. side. This fine harbour is capable of accommodating 100 vessels of the line, with moorings of half a cable range, or one cable asunder. Pop. consisting chiefly of mulattoes and Sambos, 3000. (Belcher s Voyage round the World; Commercial Tariffs of States of Mexico, &c.) ACARA, a river, Brazil, prov. Para. It rises in about lat. 350 / S. flows nearly due N., and, after a course of about 150 m., falls into the estuary of the Para, about 10 m. above the town of that name ; lat. 1 40 S. ACARI, a tn. Peru, on the river St. Juan, 30 m. from the shores of the Pacific, about lat. 15 S. ; Ion. 75 W. It is built on a fine plain. Its port is Point Limns, an open roadstead with good anchorage, but the landing difficult. Pop. COOO. ACARNANIA, a district, anc. Greece, and, along with JEtolia, forming a nome, or dep. in the N.W. part of the country, as now divided, having the Gulf of Arta on the N., and the Mediterranean on the W. It contains sulphur and coal, is naturally fertile, but indifferently cultivated. It is well wooded, and has several beautiful lakes, the largest of which are Lakes Ambrakia and Ozero, the one about 7 m. in length, the other about 5, both having an average breadth of between 2 and 3 m. The chief town is Misolonghi. ACASTER-MALBIS, a par. England, co. York, E. Riding ; area, 4500 ac. Here is a college founded by R Stil- lington. Pop. in 1841, 322. ACATEPEC, a tn. Mexico, prov. Puebla, 12 m. S.W. Tehuaoan. The valley in which the town is situated con tains a considerable number of Indian families, and several cultivated estates. Various other small Indian settlements, in S. America, bear the same or a similar name. ACATLAN, a tn. Mexico, prov. of, and GO m. S. from Puebla; 123 m. S.E. Mexico, on the left bank of the Yopcz; lat. 17 59 N. ; Ion. 98 14 W. Its principal trade is in salt, procured from the salt marshes in the neighbourhood. The majority of the inhabitants are Indians, or of Indian extraction. ACATLAN is also the name of six different Indian settlements in New Mexico. ACCADIA, a tn. Naples, prov. Capitanata, district of, and 6 m. S. from Bovino. It has a parish church, and a mont-de-pitte. Agricultural produce of all kinds, fruits, wines, &c., abound here, and the pastures in the neighbour hood are extensive. Pop. 3615. ACCETTURA, a tn. Naples, prov. Basilicata, 18 m. S.W. Montepeloso. It has a parish church, and a mont-dc- jncte. The district produces wines, grains, fruits, chestnuts, flax, and hemp, and abounds in good pastures. Pop. 3140. ACCIANO, a tn. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ult. II., district of, and 19 m. S.E. from Aquila, and 14 m. N.W. Solmona; in a valley, between two hills, having an agricultural pop. of 773. ACCONBURY, or ACORNBUKY, a par. England, co. Hereford; area, 1470 ac. Pop. in 1841, 158. ACCRAH, or ACCRA, a tn. and British settlement in W. Africa, on the Gold Coast, territory of Ashantee, 75 m. N.E. Cape Coast Castle; lat. 5 31 8" N.; Ion. 11 5" W. (R.) It is situated on very low ground, and is intersected by deep ater-courses. The native dwellings are miserable enough ; ut some of the English houses are large and commodious, and well adapted for the climate. The principal occupation of the natives is searching for gold, and manufacturing it into trinkets. Their implements are few, and extremely rude ; but they contrive to make very beautiful chains, the lue of which is enhanced by the purity of the metal, scarcely any alloy being admitted. The exports from Accrah are gold dust, ivory, gums, palm oil, coffee, and the ground nut, Arachis hypogca. The imports are chiefly cotton goods, earthenware, muskets, knives, gunpowder, beads, aguardiente, tobacco, &c. Accrah is under the jurisdiction of Cape Coast, and is the most eastern of the British factories on the Gold Coast. The Danes and Dutch have each a factory here; that of the former is called Christiansborg, the latter is unimportant. (Allen s Niger Expedition.} ACCRINGTON (NEW), a tn. England, co. Lancaster, him. of, and 4 m. E. from Blackburn. It has a handsome new church, three dissenting chapels, and a national school. The inhabitants are mostly employed in cotton factories, weaving, and calico printing, there being here some large establish ments for these purposes. Near it is Old Accrington, having 1811 inhabitants. Pop. in 1841, G900. ACCUMOLI, a tn. Italy, Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ult. II., district Civita Ducale, 27 m. N.N.W. Aquila, on the left bank of the Tronto ; having a collegiate church, three convents, and about 3700 inhabitants. ACEBO, a vil. Spain, Estremadura, prov. of, and 48 m. N. from Caceres, and 38 m. N.N.E. Alcantara, on the S.E. slope of a steep hill. It is tolerably well built, and has two squares, several steep streets, an ancient parish church, chapel of ease, townhall, hospital, prison, two schools, a cemetery, and several fountains of excellent water. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in weaving, tillage, rearing cattle, and in making oil and wine. In the vicinity is a forest of remark ably fine chestnut trees. Game is plentiful. Pop. 2356. -- ACERENZA 21 ACHMIM ACEDO is also the name of several other small villages in | Spain. ACERENZA [anc. Ac7icrontia~], an anc. archi-episcopal city, Naples, prov. Basilicata, about 14 m. N.E. Potenza. It was formerly the principal city of the province, but has now fallen into decay. It has a cathedral, a castle, two convents, a grammar school, and an hospital. Pop. 3420. ACERNO, a tn. Naples, prov. Prineipato Citra, in a val ley, surrounded with mountains, 17 in. E.N.E. Salerno. It has a cathedral and parish church, and is the see of a bishop, suffragan of Salerno. There are here a mont-de-piete, a paper manufactory, and a forge. Pop. 2500. ACERRA, a city, Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, 9 m. N.E. Naples; the see of a bishop, suffragan of the archbishop of Naples. It has a cathedral, seminary, and mont-de-piete. Its situation is extremely unhealthy, but the country around is fertile. Pop. 7761. ACHAIA, a district, anc. Greece, in the Morea, now- included in the modern name, or district, of Achaia and Elis, which extends along the shores of the Gulfs of Patras and Lepanto, and the Ionian Sea, from the river Alpheus, on the W., to the small stream, Sythas, on the E. The cap., Patras ! are warned against placing too much confidence in them, (anc. Patra), of its 12 ancient cities, is the only one now of The country above the town is highly cultivated, and abounds importance ; even the sites of some being doubtful or unknown. | with small villages, groups of houses, and mosques. Pop. ACHEEN, ACHEM, or ACHEEM , a small kingdom, N. end ; 36,000. (Van der Aa s Nederlanden; Horsburgh s East India of the isl. of Sumatra, stretching along the E. coast as far as ; Directory.} Diamond Cape, and along the W. coast to Baroos; bounded j ACHEN, the name of two small rivers, Bavaria, both southwards by the Batta country, and having an area of I of which rise in the Tyrolese Alps. The one, after forming about 1550 sq. m. The country is sandy, but fertile, and j Lake Achen, falls into the Isar, about 3 m. within the Bava- less covered with morass and wood than other parts of the rian frontier; its total course being about 20 m. The other, island; and it is traversed by a ridge of hills from Acheen j called Gross Achen, flows past Kitzbiihe^, through the Tyrol Head, towards the S.E., till it joins with the Simpong moun- tains. Its three principal streams are the Sinkel, the An- nalaboo, and the Acheen. Among its vegetable products tion. There is here a palace belonging to the Sultan, an uncouth structure, surrounded by a moat and strong walls. Near the gate are several large pieces of ordnance, two of which are old English guns, having been presented by James I. to the first reigning monarch of Acheen. The roadstead in which the shipping lies, is oif the mouth of the river, where there is a bar, with not more than 4 ft. water on it at low water spring-tides, and which can be passed by the vessels of the country only. The roadstead, which is gradu ally getting sanded up, was sheltered by several islands ; but is now, during the S. W. monsoon and the rainy season, very much exposed. Acheen was at one period a place of greater note than it is now, its trade having fallen off. It was the port to which the earliest voyages to the East were almost exclusively directed, and was the point first touched by an East India Company s ship. Its trade, however, in the com modities enumerated in the preceding article, is still con siderable, particularly with Singapore, Batavia, and Bengal. Rice, bullocks, poultry, vegetables, and fruit, may generally be obtained here in abundance, and plenty of fresh water. The natives are said to be treacherous, and trading vessels ese valley of Kaessan, and falls into the Bavarian lake Chiem, after a course of about 30 m. ACHERN, an ancient tn. grand duchy of Baden, Middle are cotton, rice, and many kinds of fruits; and some attention | Rhine circle, 13 m. S.S.W. Baden, and 14 m. N.E. Kehl; is paid to the rearing of cattle and horses, which latter, though on the left bank of the Achern, and on the railway from small, are spirited, and much sought after for the Madras Carlsruhe to Freiberg, in a picturesque and fertile district of market. Of other animals, there are goats, birds, abundance of game, and fish, and likewise elephants, which latter fn the Black Forest. The inhabitants are principally occupied in agriculture and cattle breeding, piano making, and be quently do considerable damage to the rice crops. Acheen brewing; and have some trade, for which there is a considerable has gold and copper mines, and manufactures of gold and weekly market. In the neighbourhood is the vast lunatic silver thread, silk, cotton, firearms, and gunpowder. It has j asylum of Illenau. At Sasbach, not far from Achern, stand? a considerable trade; exports gold, precious stones, betel, j an obelisk of granite, erected by the French in 1829, to mark benzoin, camphor, pepper, sulphur, &c. ; and imports cotton [ the spot where their great marshal, Turenne. was killed by goods, cloth, salt, iron, opium, glass, and European manu- ! a cannon ball, while reconnoitering the Austrian army, July factures. I 27, 1675. Pop. almost all R. catholic, 1938. The inhabitants are partly Battas, and partly Malays, and ! ACHILL, an isl. and par. Ireland, co. Mayo. The more laborious, braver, cleverer, possessed of more informa- former sometimes called Eagle Island, from its being the tion regarding foreign countries, and, as a whole, more resort of eagles is separated from the mainland of Connaught honourable in their dealings than the other inhabitants of j by a narrow sound, fordable at low water; and the most Sumatra, who rank sufficiently low in the scale of honesty, | -vesterly point of the island, called Achill Head, 2222 ft. high, though little dependence must be placed on the good faith of i is a well-known headland ; lat. 53 58 N. ; Ion. 10 16 W. (R.) merchants of the capital. In religion, they are idolaters, The island itself, which is the largest off the Irish coast, is excepting the coast people, who are Mahometans, and pos- | 17 m. long, and about 5 broad; comprises 35,283 statute sess many mosques. When a young man wishes to marry, ac. ; and is very mountainous, especially on the N. and W. he pays a certain sum to the father of the bride; but pre- j sides, with large uncultivated intervening bogs. The in- viously to doing so, he must be perfectly satisfied that his j habitants of Achill live chiefly in miserable hovels, clustered intended has no personal defects, otherwise the match is along the sea-shore. Their occupation is fishing, and tilling broken off. The wife and children become the property of , the small patches of reclaimed land around their huts. The the husband, who may pledge or sell them at his pleasure, isle of Achillbeg, which lies about m. from the mainland, Polygamy is permitted, and, by the rich, it is practised, is about 1 m. long, and m. broad. Some fine pink crystals The king, who is called Taankito, or master, receives his I or amethysts, called Achill diamonds, have been found on the revenues in kind. The government is hereditary and des- j slope of a hill, near the village of Keem, on this island ; and potic, and the laws are severe. among the cliffs on the sea-shore there was discovered, about Acheen was visited by the Portuguese as early as 1506. ! seven years ago, a fine bed of limestone. At Kildurnet, and The Dutch arrived in 1595, and, in course of the next century, overran it more than once. Ultimately, however, it was settled as an independency, in alliance with Holland. Its prosperity has decreased considerably since it was first conquered. The extent of its population is uncertain, but it ranore, there are remains of old churches, with burial- grounds attached ; at Kildurnet, a! so, are the ruins of an ancient castle. The par. contains 51,5 22 ac. Pop. of isl. and par. in 1841, 6392. (Eraser s Hand-book for Ireland; Otway s Sketches.} ACHMIM, EKIIMIM [anc. Chemnis or Fanopolis], a tn. Upper Egypt, on the right bank of the Nile, in a fertile val- is estimated at 200,000. (Van dcr Aa s Nederlanden.} ACHEEN, a tn. Sumatra, cap. of the above state, on a river of the same name, a branch of which flows through the j ley at the foot of the Mokaltam mountains, 250 m. S. Cairo; town, and about 1J m. from the sea; lat. 5 22 N.; Ion. j lat. 26 32 N. ; Ion. 31 45 E. It is a place of great anti- 95 33 E. (c.) It stands on a plain, surrounded by a thick wood i quity, and was formerly one of the most considerable cities of of palms and bamboos that runs along the coast. The houses 1 the ThebaTd, but was reduced to ruins by the Arabs. The streets are built of bamboos and rough timbers, and stand apart from ! are spacious and straight, and are adorned by some mosques, each other. They are mostly raised on piles, some feet above and a bazaar. The inhabitants carry on a considerable manu- tho ground, in order to guard against the effects of inunda- , facture of coarse cotton cloth, rear great numbers of poultry ACIIMUNEIN ACQUI mid cultivate the date and sugar cane; but depend chiefly on the culture of wheat, which is produced in abundance, and of excellent quality. The remains of Panopolis, or City of Pan, lie E. of the present town. Pop., consisting of Mahome tans, R. catholics, and Coptic Christians, is variously stated at 4000 to 10,000. (Wilkinson s Modern Egypt.) ACHMUNEIN, or ESIIMOUNEIN, the name of a modern village, Central Egypt, occupying the site of the ancient llennopolis Magna, between the Nile and the river Yousef ; lat. 27 45 N. ; Ion. 30 53 E. The beautiful portico of the temple of Thoth formed, in 1822, almost the only relic of the ancient architecture of Hermopolis; but being composed of limestone, it has since been removed, and burned by the Turks for mortar. (Wilkinson s Modern Egypt.; Russell s Views, &c.) ACHONRY, a par. and hamlet, Ireland, co. Sligo; 60,896 nc. ; contains several villages, and some fine ruins. Pop. in 1841, 17.986. ACHKAY (Locn), a small but picturesque lake, Scot land, co. Perth, celebrated in Scott s Lady of the Lake. It lies between Loch Catrine and Loch Vennachar. A CHRIS HEAD, a prominent headland on the W. coast of Ireland, co. Galway, district Connemara ; lat. 53 33 N. ; Ion. 10 10 W. ACI REALE, a seaport tn., E. coast of Sicily, 7 m. N.E. Catania. It is built on a large mass of basaltic lava at the foot of Mount Etna, and stands about 800 ft. above the level of the sea; the port being below, at the mouth of the Acis rib. It was formerly defended by a fort, which is now converted into a state prison. The houses are built of lava ; the streets arc wide, regular, and clean, and the town alto gether presents an appearance of prosperity. Corn, wine, I fruit, flax and diaper, form the principal articles of trade, and in these a considerable business is done. The environs are i fertile, and produce large quantities of flax. There is a mineral spring. The port is small, with a mole built with lava. It has several commodious warehouses. Pop. 15,000. ACKEN, a tn. Prussia, prov. Saxony, 22 m. S.S.E. Magdeburg, on the left bank of the Elbe, and, on three sides, enclosed by the duchy of Anhalt. It is walled, and has four gates, two Lutheran churches, and an hospital. Some trade is done in cattle, grain, wool, mercery, and wood, and in shipping on the Elbe. The manufacture of cloth, leather, tobacco, and mathematical and optical instruments, is carried on. A good transit trade exists, and there are some breweries in the place. Pop. 4100. ACKLAM, the name of two parishes in England, both in the co. York: 1, Acklam East, E. Riding; 2970 ac. Roman remains. Pop. in 1841, 845. 2, AcUam West, N. Riding; 1160 ac. ; on the Stockton and Darlington Railway. Pop. in 1841, 97. ACKWORTH, a par. England, co. York, W. Riding ; 2270 ac. Friends school. Pop. in 1841, 1828. ACLE, a par. and vil. England, co. Norfolk ; 4360 ac. Large fair on Midsummer day. Pop. in 1841, 864. AC-METCHET. See SIMFEROPOL. ACO-COOMO, a tn., S.W. Africa, on the left bank of Old Calabar river, lat. 6 46 N. The banks of the stream, which is here about 450 yards wide, are well cultivated. Captain Becroft, who explored the river in 1842, says, that the inhabitants seemed alarmed at the appearance of the ves sel, and hastened to arm themselves ; but were easily prevailed upon to believe that their visitation was friendly, not hostile. On being satisfied of this, they immediately became quiet and peaceable. Several women were observed employed in boil ing palm oil, in native earthen pots, in the open air. ACOMB, or AKEHAM, a par. England, co York Ainsty; 2,120 ac. ; on the Great North of England Railway. Pop. in 1841, 880. ACONCAGUA, a prov. Chili, S. America, bounded, E. by the central ridge of the Cordillera of the Andes, W. by the prov. of Quillota and the Pacific Ocean, N. by the prov. of Coquimbo, and S. by that of Santiago ; extending from E. to W. about 40 m., and from N. to S. about 110m. It possesses a considerable portion of cultivated ground, and is watered by two principal rivers flowing from the Andes, namely, the Putaendo from the N.E., and the Aconcagua from the S.E. The valley of Aconcagua is a tract of level ground, of an oval form, about 2500 ft. above the level of the sea ; varying in width from 1 to 8 m., and extending W. to the ocean, about 20 m. It is watered by pure streams, and covered with farmhouses and hamlets, surrounded by orchards and vine yards. In this province occurs the loftiest summit of the Andes, the peak of Aconcagua, rising 23,910 ft. above the sea ; situated in lat. 32 38 30" S. ; Ion. 70 00 30" W. It has been called a volcano, but erroneously ; there being no evidence of volcanic action at any part of the mountain. The height of the peak here given, is from Mrs. Sommerville s Physical Geography; other authorities make it several hundred feet less. In Johnston s Physical Atlas, it is stated to be 23,200 ft. only. But, even at the lowest estimate, it would still remain the loftiest summit of the Andes. The province is divided into four districts Putaendo, San Felipe, Santa Rosa, and Curimon. The whole is parcelled out, with few excep tions, into small farms, separated by enclosures of rammed earthen walls, and irrigated by numerous well-directed chan nels. Vegetation proceeds rapidly. The principal produce is grain, maize, beans, pumpkins, grapes, melons, olives, and other fruit and garden produce, with a great quantity of wild marjoram. Orchards and vineyards are numerous ; and inclosures of lucerne, for the fattening of cattle, are abun dant. The climate here is hotter in summer, and more rigorous in winter, than in the same latitude on the coast. The capital is San Felipe. Pop. of prov. 60,000. ACONCAGUA [anc. La Villa Vicja], now called SAN FELIPE, a city, and chief place of above prov.; about 60 m. N.N.E. Valparaiso; 15 m. W. from the base of the Andes; and about the same distance from the town of Santa Rosa, or Villa Nueva. It is laid out with great regularity, in the form of a square, surrounded by extensive alamcdas, or public walks, planted with Lombardy poplars. In the centre of the town is a large open square, one side of which is occupied by the townhall and municipal offices ; opposite are the church and barracks ; and the remaining sides consist of shops and private dwellings. The houses are all of one story, and are in a good style of building. Roses and jessamines arc seen in every courtyard, and the gardens are well filled with various fruits. The houses, as in other parts of Chili, have no fireplaces ; instead of which, brazcros, or pans of live coal, are used when heat is required. The streets arc tolerably well lighted and watched at night. Pop. 12,000. (United Mates Exploring Expedition, vol. i. p. 192.) ACOONO-COONO, a considerable tn., W. coast of Africa, on the E. bank of Old Calabar river; between lat. 7 and 8 N., and Ion. 8 and 9 W. ; or about 70 m. E. from Iddah, on the Niger. It is in the form of a crescent, and about f of a mile in length ; but the houses are of the poorest and meanest description. Captain Becroft, who explored the river in 1842, describes the inhabitants as a fine-looking and intelligent race. Both sexes, he adds, wear around the middle the usual cloth of European or native manufacture, with strings of beads round the neck, wrists, and ankles. None but children go naked ; the females wear bracelets and leglets, made of cow ries. The principal men permit their finger nails to grow with out paring, which is considered here, as in many places on the Niger, a mark of gentility. Pop. about 4000. ACQUA, a vil. Tuscany, prov. Pisa, 16 m. E. Leghorn, celebrated for its mineral springs and baths, which are much frequented, and have been resorted to since the 12th century. ACQUAPENDENTE [anc. Acquepedena, or Aqna Ta- rince], a small tn. Papal States, delegation of, and 15 m. W. j by N. from Orvieto, and 65 N.N.W. Rome, situated on the summit of a rock, over which several cascades are precipi tated ; whence its name. It is ill built, and derives its only interest from its singular position. Previously to the 17th century, it had few inhabitants; but Pope Innocent X. having removed the episcopal see to it from Castro, in 1647, it be came a place of some importance. It is the birthplace of ! the anatomist Fabricius ab Acquapendentc, under whom Har vey studied at Padua. In the last century, Acquapendcnte was visited by a disastrous earthquake. Pop. 3000. ACQUAVI VA, a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Bari, district of, and 16 m. S. from Bari, in a healthy situation at the foot of the Apennines. It is surrounded with walls and ditches ; has a handsome parish church, several convents, two hospitals, and a mont-de-pietc. Pop. 5300. ACQUI, a tn. Sardinia, cap. prov. of same name, on the left bank of the river Bormida, 18 m. S.S.W. Alexandria. ACHE ACTON It is the see of a bishop, suffragan to the archbishop of Turin. It contains a synagogue, a theological seminary, and a royal college. There are here, also, warm sulphurous baths, which draw a great many visitors. The manufacture of silks is carried on to a considerable extent. Some ruins still remain of the AfjutB Statidlce of the Romans. 1 op. 7000, of whom 479 are Jews. The province of Acqui, forming part of the government of Alexandria, comprehends an area of about 534 sq. m. It contains large tracts of fertile land, and some inconsiderable mines of iron and other minerals. The prin cipal employment of the inhabitants is winding and throwing silk. Pop. 91,000. ACRE, ST. JEAN D AORE, or ACCHO, an ancient fortified tn. and seaport, Syria, on the E. coast of the Mediterranean ; lat. 32 55 N.; Ion. 35 2 30" E (K.) ; on a low point of land stretching into the sea, forming the N.E. side of the Bay of Acre, the promontory of Mount Carmel being on the S.W. Previous to its destruction in 1832, by Ibrahim Pasha, the city, although it had often before been reduced to a state of decay, presented a very beautiful and imposing appearance, from its lofty walls and mosques, overtopped by trees from the inside, and sur rounded on the outside by orange, lemon, and palm trees ; but. like all oriental towns, its streets were narrow and filthy. ACRE, ENTRANCE, OF THE STREET OF THE I1AZAAR. From Forbin, Voyage dans le Levant. The houses were solidly built with stone, with flat roofs ; the bazaars mean, but tolerably well supplied. The principal objects were the mosque of Djezzar Pasha, the seraglio, the granary, and the arsenal. It had, in former times, a consider- ; able trade ; its exports with France, Venice, England, and I Holland whence oil, cotton, skins, and other goods were j brought latterly have consisted chiefly of grain and cotton ; its imports of rice, coffee, and sugar from Damietta. All this has been long since changed, and this bulwark of Syria is now little better than a heap of ruins. In 1832, it was besieged i for nearly six months by Ibrahim Pasha, during which 35,000 | | shells were thrown into it, and nearly all its buildings, public i and private, destroyed. Before it had recovered from this cala- I mity, it was bombarded (November 2, 1840) by an English fleet, consisting of seven line-of-battle ships, four war steamers for throwing shells, and some smaller vessels, aided by two Aus- i trian frigates, the whole being commanded by Admiral Sir Robert Stopford. After two hours heavy firing, a magazine blew up with a tremendous explosion, destroying two entire regiments of Egyptian infantry, and every living creature within an area of 60,000 square feet. On the following day, the town was taken possession of by the English and Austrians. But these more recent calamities by no means comprise the entire history of its misfortunes. In 1 104, it was captured by the first crusaders ; in 1110, it was taken by Baldwin, king of Jerusalem; 77 years afterwards, it was recovered by Salahed- din, and, in 1 1 91, was retaken by the Christians under Richard Cocur de Lion and Philip Augustus, and given to the knights of St. John of Jerusalem, from whom it received the name, St. Jean d Acre. The Christians retained possession of il for a century; but, in 1291, it was retaken by the Saracens an event which terminated the Latin domination in the Holy Land. From that period, till the end of the 18th century, the town fell to decay, although partially repaired, and, for short intervals, occupied by various contending parties. It was latterly improved and fortified by Achmed Djezzar, the Turkish Pasha of Sidon, whose residence it then became. In 1 799, it was for 61 days besieged by the French under Bona parte, who, by the brave resistance of the Djezzar, aided by Sir Sidney Smith, were at length compelled to abandon the siege. The last event of importance in its history took place in 1840, as recorded above. The site of the present town was at one time occupied by a Phenician city, called Accho, which was subsequently changed by the Greek sovereigns of Egypt to Ptolemais. Pop. about 12,000, of which one-third are Turks. ACRI, a tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Citra, district of, and 13 m. N.E. from Cosenza, in a fine salubrious situation, and fertile country. It has six parish churches, and an hospital. Pop. 7861. ACRISE, apar. England, co. Kent; 1170ac.; 5m. N.N.W. Folkstone. Pop. in 1841, 297. ACRO-CORINTHUS, a precipitous and somewhat coni cal rock, near the city of Corinth, in Greece, on which stood the ancient acropolis, or citadel, of the place, and a temple of Venus. It is about 2000 ft. above the level of the sea, and is the site of a modern fortification, which is considered one of the strongest in Greece. ACS, or ATS, a vil. Lower Hungary, co. of, and 5 m. S. S.W. from Komorn, with a castle and park, a R. catholic, and a Calvinistic church, a vineyard, and four mills. Pop. 3400. Acs was the scene of a sanguinary and indecisive battle between the Austro-Russian army and the Hungarians, on July 16, 1849. ACSA. See AK HISSAR. ACTION ISLAND and REEF, situated at the S. entrance into D Entrecasteaux Channel, Van Diemen s Land ; lat. 43 34 S.; Ion. 146 59 E. (R.) The rocky islets forming this reef, are dispersed over a space 3 m. in length by 1 m. in breadth, and are extremely dangerous, having been the cause of several disastrous shipwrecks, including that of the Actseon, from which they derive their name. Some of these unfortunate occurrences were attended with fearful loss of life, the vessels having been, in several instances, convict and emigrant ships. ACTIUM, a promontory and tn., anc. Greece, situated near the entrance to the Gulf of Arta (Anibradus Sinus), on the N. coast of Acarnania. Two capes claim to be identi fied with the former Actium one at the entrance of the gulf; the other, Cape Madonna, a few miles to the eastward. From the descriptions of ancient geographers, the former appears to be the true Actium. The town which received its name from the Greek acte, a promontory contained a temple dedicated to Apollo ; but the place owes its fame entirely to the naval battle fought in its vicinity, between Augustus and Antony, about 30 years B c., in which the latter was defeated. Augustus, in commemoration of his victory, enlarged and beautified the temple of Apollo, instituted quinquennial games called Actia, and built the city of Nicopolis, on the opposite coast, near the modern Prevesa. ACTON, alone, and with various affixes, is the name of a small tn. and of several parishes and townships in England : 1, Acton, a tn., co. Chester, bun. and union Nantwich, from which it lies 2 m. N.W. It has a church, two Dissenters chapels, a free grammar school, and two national schools. Pop. of the par., which includes 16 townships, and comprises 19,800 acres, 4134 in 1841. 2, Acton, a township, Cheshire, 29 m. by rail from Liverpool. Pop. in 1841, 382. 3, Acton, or AJxton, a par., co. Suffolk; annual fair, July 6. Pop. in 1841,555. 4, Actan-Ecaucliamp, a par., co. Worcester; 1600 ac. ; great quantity of hops. Pop in 1841, 217. 5, Acton- Granije, a township, Cheshire ; 780 ac. ; on the Birmingham ACTON .24 ADAMS Railway. Pop. in 1841, 175. 6, Acton-Hound, a par., co. Salop; 3040 ac. Pop. in 1841, 180. 7, Acton-Scott, a, par., co. Salop ; 930 ac. ; near a branch of the Teme. Pop. in 1841, 204. ACTON, a vil. and par. England, co. Middlesex, him. Ossulstone, about 8 ra. W. London, on the road to Oxford, pleasantly situated on a slight inclination. It consists almost entirely of one long street, and has nothing very attrac tive in its appearance, although there are many handsome villas in its vicinity. There are here, besides the parish church, an Independent chapel, and a R. catholic place of worship, several charity schools, and a set of almshouses for 12 poor men, and the like number of poor women. In the vicinity is a mineral spring, formerly held in great repute. The village of East Acton is at the distance of about l.J m. Area of par. 2200 ac. Pop. 2665. ACTON-BURNELL [anc. detune, or Oak-town}, a vil. and par. England, co. Salop, hun. Condover, 7^ m. S. Shrewsbury, picturesquely situated on a slight acclivity, near the Stratton Hills, and remarkable for containing some buildings illustrative of the ecclesiastical and domestic archi tecture of the 12th and 13th centuries, and for having been the scene of the proceedings of a parliament held here in the 13th year of the reign of Edward I., in which was passed the" Statute Merchant Act, appointing the mode by which a statute merchant is to be made, and the various pro cedures to be observed by creditors in recovering debts, &c., &c. There is here a beautiful cruciform church, built by Bishop Burnell, in the early part of the 14th century, and one school, conducted partially on the national principle. Area of par., 2650 ac. Pop. 394. ACTOPAN, a tn. and district, Mexico, the former 65 m. N.N.E. the city of Mexico; lat. 20 17 28" N.; Ion. 98 48 52" W. (L.) It contains an ancient convent of the order of St. Augustin. Its population consists chiefly of Othomies Indians, of whom there are between 2000 and 3000 families, with a small proportion of Spaniards, mulattoes, and mustees. The principal occupation of the inhabitants of the district is rearing goats and sheep, which are prized, particu larly, for their skins and fat. The land is fertile, especially in the vicinity of the town, but is much encumbered with prickly plants, thorns, &c. The climate is mild. Singing birds, including the nightingale, are numerous all over the district. ACUL, a small seaport tn., N. coast, Hayti or St. Domingo; lat. 19 47 40" N.; Ion. 72 27 15" W. (L.) ; 70 m. E. Cape St. Nicholas. ACUL is also the name of a small river in the same island, which falls into the sea at the back of Point Abacou. ACULCO, or ACULEO, a lake, Chili, prov. of, and 38 m. S S. W. from Santiago ; it is about 9 m. in length, and 3 in breadth, and discharges itself into the river Maypu by a small stream, having a N. course of about 15m. The scenery around it is remarkable for its beauty. It abounds in fish and aquatic fowls, including swans and flamingoes. In a mountainous ridge close by, are the gold mines of Alaue. ADAFOOD1A, a large tn. Fellatta country, W. Africa; lat. 13 6 N.; Ion. 1 3 E. It is situated in a dry healthy plain, having a rich red soil, and is enclosed by a thick clay wall, 18 ft. high. There is here an extensive market for slaves, and for other less objectionable wares, such as Bornou armlets, bracelets, and anklets, native razors and beads, cloths of dif ferent kinds, and carved wooden bowls, bows, arrows, earthen ware, provisions, &c. It is said to be as large as Abomey (pop. 24,000), and its trade in native merchandise nearly equal. Adafoodia was the extreme limit of Mr. Duncan s tra vels towards the interior, and there he obtained, from an eye-witness, an interesting and minute account of the death of Mungo Park. (Duncan s Travels in Western Africa.) ADAJA, a river, Spain, Old Castile, rising near Piedra- hita, in the Sierra de Avila. It pursues an E. direction for about 20 m., when it turns abruptly to the N., and, passing the city of Avila, falls into the Duero about 15 m. S. Valla- dolid, after a course of between 80 and 90 in. ADALIA. SATALIEII, or SATALAYA [anc. Atolbia], a seaport, Anatolia, Asiatic Turkey, at the head of the enlf of the name name; Jat. 3652 12"N.; Ion. 30 45 E. (R.); pleasantly situated on the slope of a hill rising to a height of 70 ft. above the level of the sea. The houses being built circularly round the harbour, the streets appear to rise behind each other, like the seats of a theatre. There is a bazaar, or collection of shops, where various articles of Euro pean manufacture are displayed. The neighbourhood abounds ~th orange, lemon, fig, and mulberry trees, with vines, sugar canes, &c. ; and the view from the higher houses is said to be very fine, the country being fertile, and the mountains poeti cally beautiful. In the town are fragments of ancient build ings, columns, inscriptions, and statues, which are generally built into the walls of the town with care and some taste. Adalia is begirt with a double wall. Scarcely a ship rides in the ancient harbour, a few boats occupying a port which, in early ages, contained its fleet. A stream in the neighbour hood is supposed to have been the ancient Catarractes. The Gulf of Adalia, at the head of which the town is situated, is a deep and broad indentation, being about 100 m. in width at its entrance, and 50 in length. Cape Khelidonia forms its W., and Cape Anamoor its E. entrance. Pop. of town, 8000. ADAM BAY, Australia, N.W. coast; lat. 12 10 S.; Ion. 131 45 E; 70 in. S.W. Victoria, Port Essington. It stretches 6 m. inland, and is 10 in breadth at the entrance, ith 9 fathoms water. The river Adelaide falls into this bay. It was named by Stokes, the discoverer, after Sir Charles Adam. ADAM S BRIDGE, a remarkable sand-bank between Talk s Strait and the Gulf of Manaar, stretching from the island of the latter name on the N.W. coast of Ceylon, to the island of Ramiserum off the S.E. coast of the Carnatic. The bank is about 30 m. in length, and J m. in breadth, and con sists entirely of sand, partly above and partly below water, collected apparently by the surf and currents, and, so far as is known, unsupported by rock. It is said that throughout the whole extent of the bridge there is not above 3 or 4 ft. water at high tides in any part. There are three principal chan icls through the bank ; one near the island of Manaar, called the Tal Manaar passage, a long, narrow, and very winding channel, having about 6 ft. water in the shallow parts, with the exception of a bar opposite its S. end, on which there is not more than 3 or 4 ft. water. The second passage is about 8 m. further to the W., and the third 11 m. from the island of Ramiserum. The last, called the Tanny Coody channel, is narrow in the centre, and 30 ft. deep, with broad curved bars opposite its two ends, on which there is not more than 5 or 6 ft. water. (Major Sim s Report; Horsburgh s India Directory.) ADAM S PEAK, a lofty mountain in the S. part of the isl. of Ceylon, 45m. E.S.E. Colombo; lat. 6 52 N.; Ion. 80 29 E. (u.) It is of a conical form, about 7000 ft. high, and can be seen at sea, in ciear weatiier, from a distance of nearly 150 m. It is considered sacred by the followers of Buddha, as well as by the Mussulmans of Hindoostan, and crowds of both Buddhist and Mahometan pilgrims, annually ascend the mountain in the months of January, February, and March, being the dry season on the W. side of the island. The summit is surrounded by a wall about 5 ft. high, in which are two distinct openings to admit pilgrims. By the side of this wall, a level path has been formed encircling the rocks, which rise to a height of about 8 ft. in the centre, and are surmounted by a small wooden temple. On the top is an impression of the foot of Buddha, said to have been imprinted when he stepped from this peak to the kingdom of Siam. The Mahometans, however, assert that the footprint was left by Adam, our first parent, who here lamented his expul sion from Paradise supposed to have been in the island of Ceylon; hence the name of Adam s Peak. The impression itself appears to be a superficial hollow, nearly 5 J ft. long, by about 2^ ft. broad, having a border of gilded copper, studded with a few gems of little value. The offerings of the devotees, consisting of copper money, rice, cocoa nuts, cotton cloth, handkerchiefs, betel leaves, flowers, onions, ornaments for the cover of the footprint, and a lock of the hair of the head, or a portion of the beard, are forwarded at the end of the season to the chief priest at Candy. The average annual amount is about 250 sterling. The view from the summit is singu larly magnificent. (Knigh ton s Lfist. of Ceylon.) ADAMS, the name of several towns, counties, and dis tricts, United States : 1, A tn., co. Berkshire, Massachusetts. 2, A co. in state Mississippi. 3, A district, New Hampshire. 4, A district, New York. 5, A co. Ohio. 6, A co. and tn. Pennsylvania. ADAMSON S HARBOUR 25 ADELAIDE ADAMSON S HARBOUR, or POUT ESI-ERANCE, a small arm of the sea, on the S. coast of Van Diemen s Land, d Entrecasteaux Channel, between the estuary of the Huon and S. Port ; it is 2 in. wide at the entrance, and runs about 7 in. inland; hit. 43 20 S.; Ion. 147 15 E. ADAMSTOVVN, a par. Ireland, co. Wexford; area, 81 34 ac. ; contains several interesting ruins, and a lofty mountain called Carrickburn, said to be 3000 ft. high. Pop. in 1841, 2037. ADAMUZ, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 21 m. N.E. from Cordova, situated on the sierra Morena, about 1 m. N. of the Guadalquivir ; consists of solidly constructed houses, forming about a dozen ill-built streets, and has four churches, an endowed school, prison and barracks, with 2640 inhabit ants, engaged partly in tillage, partly in making white soap and olive oil, and in weaving coarse linens. Considerable quan tities of the oil and soap are sent to Castile. (Madoz.) ADANA, an anc. tn. Asiatic Turkey, district of same name, on the Sihun, about 21 m. from its embouchure in the Mediterranean ; lat. 37 N.; Ion. 35 15 E.; situated on a gentle declivity, and surrounded by groves of mulberry, peach, apricot, fig and olive trees, and vineyards. It is large and gloomy, but well built, and contains some good bazaars. It was anciently enclosed by walls, of which parts only now remain, together with a Roman archway and bridge. The inhabitants consist chiefly of Turks and Turcomans. Pop. 10,000. ADANAD, or AmNATHA,atn. Hindoostan, prov. Malabar, division Shirnada, 25 m. S.S.E. Calicut; the residence of the Alvangheri Tamburacul, or chief of the Brahmins of Malabar, who are styled Namburies. ADARE, a vil. or small tn. and par. Ireland, co. Limerick, prov. Munster ; the former 8 m. S.W. Limerick, and 102 in. S.W. by W. Dublin, on the W. bank of the small river Mague, here crossed by an ancient, but excellent stone bridge of 14 arches. The houses are, for the most part, old and ill built ; but great improvements have been effected of late years by Lord Dunraven, who is proprietor of the village. Adare, however, is remarkable only for some extensive and interest ing ruins in the town and vicinity. These consist of the remains of a monastery, founded by the first Earl of Kildare in 1279, of which the tower, nave, and part of the choir only now exist ; of those of an Augustinian abbey, on the bank of the river ; and of a Franciscan abbey on the S. side. The cloisters of both the latter are nearly in a perfect state. The par. comprises 11,933 ac. Pop. of tn. in 1841, 1095; of par. 4902. ADBASTON, or ABDASTOX, a par. England, co. Stafford; area, 5330 ac. ; 4J m. W. by S. Eccleshall, near the Birming ham and Liverpool Junction Canal. Pop. in 1841, 610. ADDA, ADDUA, or ABDUA, a river, Venetian Lombardy, formed by several rivulets which descend from the Rhetian Alps, and unite at Bormio, at the N. entrance of the Valtellina valley, which it traverses throughout its whole length, passing Sondrio, and subsequently falling into the Lake of Como, about 4 or 5 m. from its N. extremity. It again issues from the S. end of the Lecco arm of the lake, and flows nearly due S. to Lodi, when it takes a S.E. direction, and ultimately joins the Po, about 5 m. W. Cremona. Its entire course, exclusive of its passage through the Lake of Como, is about 120 m. ADDA KUDI5U, an old tn., W. Africa, on the right bank of the Niger, about 250 m. from its embouchure ; lat. 7 44 N.; Ion. 6 35 E. It is now deserted and in rums. A aiodel farm was established a few miles above the town in 1841, oy the Niger Expedition, under the command of Capt. Trotter, and at the expense of the African Agricultural Society ; but the death of the superintendent, the insubordination of the settlers, and the pernicious climate, caused it to be abandoned next year. ADDERBURY, a par. England, co. Oxford; area, 6380 ac.; on the Oxford Canal ; with a church and school. Pop. in 1841, 2526. ADDERGEY, a small tn. Abyssinia, kingdom of Tigre , prov. Samen, cap. of its district, on the N.W. slope of the Samen mountains, near the pass of Lamalinon, and on the route followed by Bruce, in his journey from Axum to Gondar; lat. 13 35 N.; Ion. 38 3 E. ADDERGOOLE, two pars. Ireland: 1, co. Mayo; area, 36,630 ac. Pop. 7379. 2, Galway; 8442 ac. Pop. 3321. VOL. I. ADDERLEY, a par. England, co. Salop ; area, 2260 ac. ; on the Birmingham and Liverpool Canal. Pop. in 1841, 404, ADDINGHAM, two parishes in England:!, Adding- ham, a par., co. Cumberland ; area, 9520 ac.; two small charities; Roman road, called the Maiden way ; and Druidical monu ments on the river Eden. Pop. in 1841,735. 2, Adding- ham, a par., co. York, W. Ridjng; area, 4310 ac-- 6m. E. by S. Ripton; worsted and cotton mills. Pop. in 1841, 1812. ADDINGTON, the name of five parishes in England: 1, Addington (Great), a par., co. Northampton; 3 in. S.W. Thrapston ; area, 1230 ac. ; on the Northampton Canal. Pop. in 1841, 266. 2, Addington (Little], a par. same co., S. of Thrapston; 1170 ac. Pop. in 1841, 299. 3, Addington, a par. and township, co. Kent ; 920 ac. ; Druidical monument and land spring. Pop. in 1841, 208. 4, Addington, a par., co. Surrey; 3210 ac. ; manor of Addington, Archbishop of Canterbury s seat, held by the singular tenure of making and presenting to the sovereign a mess of pottage at his or her I coronation. It is near the Croydon Railway, and has a number of low tumuli. Pop. in 1841, 580,5,Addinyton, a par., co. Bucks; 1320 ac.; 1 m. W.N.W. Winslow; fund for apprenticing poor boys. Pop. in 1841, 84. ADDLE, a par. England, co. York, W. Riding; area, 6350 ac.; fine Norman church ; several charities; a flaxmill. Remains of a Roman town, and many antiquities, discovered in 1702 and subsequently. Pop. in 1841, 1219. ADDLETHORPE, a par. England, co. Lincoln; area, 1770.ac.; 7 m. E.S.E. Alford. Pop. in 1841, 238. ADDOO, or ADOU, one of the Maldive Islands; 10 m. in length, E. to W., and 7 in breadth, N. to S. ; of a crescent form, convex towards the S., and concave towards the N. ; lat. 2 7 N. ; Ion. 73 35 E. (K.) ADEL, or ADAIEL, formerly a prov. Abyssinia, now a separate kingdom ; but neither its precise position nor its limits would appear to be ascertained, since hardly any two authorities agree as to either, some making Adel and Dan- kali synonymous, and others including Somauli, to the exclu sion of Dankali. As usually understood, however, it would appear to be that district stretching along the E. confines of Abyssinia, between lat. 10 30 and about 12 55 N., having the Sea of Bab-el-Mandeb on the E. for half its length, and the territory of Esa Somauli throughout the other half. Its entire length from N.E. to S.W. is thus about 150 m. It is bounded on the W. by the country of the Galla tribes, but it* precise limits in this direction are utterly unknown, as, indeed, is the kingdom generally, it being nearly an entire blank on our maps. So far as the country has been yet explored still a very limited extent in comparison to the whole it presents a volcanic formation, many extinct craters being visible, but none in a state of activity. Beds of lava, of great thickness, are also met with. The country is in general naked and barren, but presents occasional patches of good soil, in which various grains are produced, including wheat, barley, and millet. Tracts also occur covered with light green grass, on which numerous flocks and herds are reared. The climate is singularly variable, and generally very unhealthy. Both the mineral and vegetable productions of Adel are the same as those common to the other provinces of Abyssinia ; as is also its zoology. The people of this country are of nomadic habits, and would appear, generally, to resemble, in most respects, those of Dankali (which see), and are indeed spoken of as the same race by many travellers; the term Dankali being indiscriminately applied to the inhabitants of both coun tries. The principal towns are Tajoora and Hoosa. (Brant; Isenberg and Krapf.) ADELE ISLAND, off the N.W. coast of Australia, and about 55 m. from the mainland. Its centre is in lat. 15 32 S. ; Ion. 1 9 * 15 K. (R.) There are several small islets near it. ADELAIDE, a tn., S. Australia, co. Adelaide, of which it is the chief place; on the E. shore of St. Vincent s Gulf, about 6 m. from the coast; lat. 34 55 S. ; Ion. 138 28 E. (K.) It is intersected by the river Torrens, which divides it into S- and N. Adelaide. The former is on flat ground, and twice the size of the northern part of the town. It has also been more extensively built upon, and is the established commercial divi sion of the city. The government house, and all the public buildings and offices, are in S. Adelaide. The former is a handsome building, resembling a country gentleman s house in England, with well-kept gardens around it. Several of the ADELAIDE ISLAND 26 ADELSBERG streets would do no discredit to any secondary town in Eng land. They are all spacious, varying from 60 to 130 ft. wide, and run at right angles with each other. The public offices and jail are as yet the only public buildings in the town worth noticing. There are, however, several creditable edifices be sides, including the S. Australian Bank, which stands in a pro minent position on the N. Torrcns. There are two Episcopalian churches in S. Adelaide, each calculated to hold about 1000 sitters, and having an average attendance of about 900. Another church has been recently erected in N. Adelaide. There arc, besides, nine dissenting places of worship, all respectable-look ing buildings, the average attendance at which is about 2300. There is also a K. catholic church, with an excellent school attached. Having been planned on too large a scale, the town continues to have a straggling appearance, and will probably continue so for several years to come. At present, it is prettily studded with large gum trees. Nearly every article of European produce can be had here, and often, if not always, at a very little advance on home prices. Port Adelaide lat. 34 48 S.; Ion. 138 28 E. (R.) is about 5 or 6 m. from the town, with which it is con nected by an excellent macadamized road, carried, in some places, on a causeway, over a swamp. It is situated on the E. bank of a large creek, penetrating the Mangrove Swamp, by which the shore of the gulf is here fringed. The creek, which is from 10 to 11 m. in length, proceeds first in a N.E. direction; this portion being called the north arm; then suddenly bends round, and runs for about 6 m. due S. Measures are now being taken for removing the port to the north arm, where there is broader and deeper water, and from which vessels can put more readily to sea than from the present port, which is 3 or 4 in. further up. Port Adelaide is a bar harbour. When the colony was first established, there were, at no time, even at spring tides, 15 ft. water on the bar; but having been recently deepened, vessels drawing 17 or 18 ft. may now be brought in during the winter springs. It is not considered safe, however, to load deeper than 15 or 1 6 ft. There is now 3 ft. more water on the bar than formerly, and it is expected, if the deepening goes on, chat there will soon be 5 ft. Port Adelaide is a free port ; and since it was declared so, its trade has greatly increased. The imports for 1848 amounted to 346,137, and the exports to 465,878. The site on which Adelaide now stands, was selected by Col. Sight, surveyor-general to the colony, and the streets and squares laid out in 1837. Pop. between 8000 and 10,000. (Sturt s Expedition into Central Australia, &c.) ADELAIDE ISLAND, an isl. in the Antarctic Ocean; lat. 67 15 S. ; Ion. 68 15 W. (R.) ; discovered by Capt. Biscoe in 1831-2, who describes it as having a singularly attractive appearance, with one lofty peak in the middle, shooting up to a great height, and a lower range of mountains, extending about 4 m. from N. to S., having their summits merely sprinkled with snow, but deeply covered towards their base, which slopes down to the water, and terminates in a cliff of 10 or 12 ft. high, riven and splintered in every direction to an extent of 200 or 300 yards from its edge. At a distance of 3 m., no bottom could ] be found with 250 fathoms line. Adelaide is the westermost of a chain of islands lying E.N.E. and W.S.W., now called Biscoe s Range, after the discoverer. These islands front a high continuous land, to which the name of Graham s Land has been given. ADELAIDE (QUEEN) ISLANDS, a group of islands on the S.W. coast of Patagonia, at the W. entrance to the Strait of Magalhaens. ADELAIDE RIVER, N.W. Australia. It falls into Adam Bay (which see], and is navigable 50 m. for vessels drawing 12 ft. water; bamboos and rich alluvial flats on each side, at a distance; plains openly wooded, with gum trees; soil light, not sandy. It swarms with alligators. The mouth of the river is fronted with shoa^ that extend out 5 m. It was discovered by Capt. Wickham, of the Beagle, on August 31, 1839. ADELEBSEN, or ADELEPSEN, a vil. Hanover, prov. of, and 7 m. N.W. from Gottingen, on the right bank of the Schwiilme. It has a church and a synagogue, and the ruins of two castles, with some trade in cloth, and some linen weaving. The inhabitants cultivate tobacco and flax. Pop. 1400. AD-EL-JIVAZ, a walled tn. Asiatic Turkey, pash. Van, 14 to 16 m. from Aklat, on the N.W. shore of the Lake Van. Though small, and many of the houses in ruins, it is a pretty and pleasant place, the approach to it being skirted by meadows and orchards. The greater part of the inhabitants live in detached houses among the gardens, with which the whole val ley in which it is situated is occupied. The rocks are lime stone, and pure water runs in great abundance through the lanes, serving to irrigate the gardens. There are here great plenty of common fruits; and water melons and grapes also thrive well. Coarse cotton cloths are manufactured, there being about 20 looms in the town employed in the production of these fabrics. Ad-el-jiviiz contains about 250 Mahometan and 30 Armenian families. (Brant, London Oeo. Jour., vol. x. p. 406.) ADELNAU, a tn. Prussia, cap. of circle of same name, prov. of, and 68 m. S.E. from Posen, and 40 m. N.E. Breslau, in Silesia. It lies in a flat, swampy country, on the left bank of the Bartsch, and has a Lutheran and two R. catholic churches. Tanning is carried on to a small extent, and some trade is done in cattle and mercery. In the vicinity is much wood; and horse breeding is successfully pursued. Pop. 1680. ADELPHI, or FRATELLI, two small islands in the Grecian Archipelago, about 40 in. W. Scarpanto ; in lat. 39 5 48" N. ; Ion. 23 59 15" E. (R.) ADELSBERG, a market tn. Austria, prov. Illyria, 23 m. N.E. Trieste. It lies in an elevated situation, in a dreary, barren country, among limestone hills, on the great road between Vienna and Trieste. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged as carriers. Pop. 1500. Adelsberg is only remark able for the numerous and extensive stalactite caves that exist in the limestone rock in its vicinity, and which are the largest hitherto discovered in Europe. The principal grotto is about half a mile distant from the village ; its entrance is in the face of a cliff, surmounted by a round castle ; it has been explored to a distance of between 2 and 3 m. from its mouth, and is found to terminate in a lake. The river Poik disappears in a vast cavern 50 ft. below the entrance to the grotto, reappears at about 180 yards within the cave, and is then lost under the mountains, issuing to light again at Planina, about 8 m. off, where it is called the Unz, where planks and pieces of wood, it is said, appear ten or twelve hours after being thrown into the stream in the cavern. Having proceeded about 200 yards into the grotto, a vast gloomy space is entered, called the Dome, being a hall more than 300 ft. long and 100 ft. high ; the river is heard rushing below. Crossing the latter by a wooden bridge, and scaling the opposite side by a flight of steps cut in the rock, a range of fairy-like halls and chambers, of various sizes, present themselves. It is impossible to describe all the beauties and wonders of the gigantic stalactitic concretions, and lofty halls, supported, as it were, by Gothic columns, and apparently filled with statues of exquisite deli cacy and whiteness. There is, however, one part of the cave which in grandeur and sublimity so far exceeds all the rest, that I must allude to it more specially. It is called Mount Calvary, and is situated near the extremity of the grotto, about 1 m. from the entrance. Here we suddenly found ourselves in an open space, of which we could neither see the limits, nor distinguish the height of the roof. In the centre, the ground rises considerably, forming a steep and rugged hill, over which our path led, the roof rising in proportion as we ascended, with a deep and gloomy-looking ravine on either side. This hill, which consists of the blocks and fragments fallen from the lofty roof, was almost everywhere covered with a thick in crustation of white stalagmites, which, having assumed every possible variety of form, appeared in the murky gloom like wandering spectres, or beautiful marble statues. At each step as we advanced, fresh figures were seen, arranged with apparent taste along the terraces of a rising ground. We almost fancied ourselves walking in an enchanted garden, adorned with a rich profusion of statues, columns, and vases, while the darkness made the spacious hall appear still more extensive. In short, our expectations, great as they had been, were not disap pointed. (Hamilton s Asia Miw^r, vol. i.) About 3 m. from the village is the cave of Maddelena, or the Mayddenen Grotte, which is not so extensive as the one just described, but, in some respects, is more striking. That of Adelsberg is almost level the whole way, but the Maddelena is one continual descent, at an angle of nearly 40 degrees, of great breadth, and supported by a greater number of massive stalactite columns. In this cave is found that ADEL8HEIM 27 ADEN remarkable animal, Piotcus anguinus, one of the four true amphibials known to exist, being supplied with both lungs and gills for breathing. This cave is also a favourite resort of robbers, who infest the neighbouring forests. (Hamilton.) ADELSHEIM, a small tn. grand duchy of Baden, circle of the Lower Ivhine. It lies in a vale, in the Odenwald, 32 m. E. Heidelberg. The inhabitants are principally occupied in agriculture, vine growing, and raising cattle. Adelsheim came under the sovereignty of the Grand Duke of Baden in 1806. Pop. principally Protestants, 1476. ADEMUZ, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 64 m. N.W. from Valencia, on the slope of a hill, on the right bank of the Gua- dalaviar. Its houses are of a regular height, but the streets are crooked and badly paved. It has two spacious squares; a church, with a tower 144ft. high; two chapels, three schools, two of which are endowed; a townhall ; and several flour- mills. The inhabitants are employed in weaving cotton and linen for home consumpt, in distilling brandy, and in making wax, hempen shoes, and earthenware. Pop. 3030. (Madoz.) ADEN, an ancient, and once celebrated city, and seaport j of Arabia, on its S. coast, about 100 m. E. the Strait of Hab-el-Mandeb, and 120m. E.S.E. Mocha; lat. (Sirah Island, i N. point) 12 46 12" N. ; Ion. 45 5 E. (n.) ; situated on the ! N. side of a lofty promontory, composed chiefly of masses of dark-coloured volcanic rock, wholly destitute of vegetation. The city itself is situated in an amphitheatre of rocky mountains, literally in the crater of a volcano, being closely surrounded with lofty walls and barriers of naked rock. The houses, or rather huts, are in rows, traversing a small valley, very slight in their construction, and limited in their accommodation; many of them are entirely of wicker work, having waggon roofs, with interwoven leaves of the date palm for a covering. In some instances, the roofs are flat. The buildings are generally of undressed stone, compacted with layers and pillars of wood instead of mortar. No glass windows are to be seen ; and the apertures for admitting the light are exceed ingly small. The houses in the Jews quarter are the most respectable; but even of these, little that is favourable can be said. One of the most conspicuous objects in Aden is the tomb of the Mahometan saint, Idris ibn Abdallah. Few towers and minarets are visible. On the N. and W. sides of the town, there is a steep and lofty mountain called Jebel Shamshan, which rises to the height of 1776 ft., on the highest pinnacles of which are some old towers erected by the Turks. Numerous wells, and the remains of basins for the reception of water, of great magnitude, are found in various directions; and, in the valley of Tanks, is a succession of hanging cis terns, formed by excavations in the limestone rock. These are lined with flights of steps, and supported by lofty but tresses of imperishable masonry, forming deep reservoirs of a semi-elliptical form. [Wilson s Lands of tlie Bible.) The (auks are now in ruins, and the supply of water wholly ob tained from wells, of which, according to Mr. Malcolmson, Civil and Staff surgeon who resided at Aden for six years there are no fewer than 350, situated mostly, though not invariably, at the foot of the hills, cut through the solid rock to an average depth of 40 ft., not more in many instances than 4 ft. in diameter, and built from the rock with a circular rubble wall. The water in many of the wells is brackish, and in all has a saline taste, unpleasant to strangers, on whom it acts for a time as a slight aperient an effect, however, which ceases after a brief period. The water, notwithstanding this peculiarity, is said to be of very superior quality, though stigmatized as bad by several visitors to the place. The accounts of its supply are equally conflicting as those of its quality. Mr. Malcolmson represents the former as abundant; while Commander Brown, of the AyrsJiire, who visited Aden in 1846, asserts that it is exceedingly scarce, and supports his assertion by the very strong argument, that he paid for very brackish water, three rupees per 100 gallons; and for the lest (being only one well) six rupees for a similar quantity, which, in the latter case, would be nearly equal to l^d. per gallon. The same authority represents the supply of provisions gen erally, including vegetables, as being scanty, and charges high again quoting prices; while Mr. Malcolmson says that both are abundant. With regard to these discrepancies, it can only be remarked, that Commander Brown s precise statement of charges, doubtless has its effect in determining the belief of the reader. The climate of Aden may be divided into two seasons the hot and cold, or the N.E. and S. W. monsoons ; the former com mencing at the end of April, and continuing till the beginning of October; the latter prevailing during the remainder of the year. During the continuance of the S. W. monsoon, hot winds prevail, raising the thermometer to 104 in the shade. In the cold months, from October till March, it falls as low as 64 at night, and at mid day rises only to 86. Rain occasionally falls with tropical violence in the months of November, January, and February. The climate, however, does not, on the whole, appear to be positively unhealthy. Mr. Malcolmson says, that for seven months in the year it maybe considered equal, if not superior, to that of most stations in India. The harbours of Aden, two in number, are considered the best in Arabia. The eastward or outer harbour is divided into two small bays by the rocky islet of Sirah, which was formerly fortified. Extending from this islet, sea ward, is a short projecting point, which breaks the swell of the sea, and formerly rendered the space between it and the town well adapted for an inner harbour. Of this harbour, all that at present remains is a narrow channel of deep water, close under the reef, only sufficiently capacious for seven or eight native boats. The rest is entirely choked up with sand. ADEN, FROM T1IK NORTH. From a Draw-in I. r i. -ist IMhirs li N The other, or W. harbour, called Aden Back Bay, affords , Oriental mail steamers. It lies within the small islands seeL a convenient and secure haven, accessible at all seasons; j on the map, and S.W. from the Tank, opposite the coaling and ships may anchor in any part of it. In this harbour, | station. The scenery of this bay is of a very wild and savage Called Bander Tuwayyi by the Arabs, is the anchorage for the I character, as will be seen from the accompanying view looking ADEN ADEKNO towards the coaling station, from which a road, through a deep chasm, leads to the town of Aden, about a mile and a half distant. On the E. side of its entrance, a mass of rocks, black and rugged, called Jebel Hasan, rises 1237 ft. above the level of the sea. The high land which forms Cape Aden, when approached from the E., is seen from the sea at a dis tance of between 40 and 60 m. In 1839, the town, and the peninsula on which it stands, ings, or the wretched huts of the inhabitants. Two of the minarets were then in a dilapidated condition, and the several mosques were in ruins. The fortifications encircling the town were constructed by Sultan Soleiman. A battery formerly extended along the whole length of the shore; and here, mounted on rude carriages, are s.till seen three enormous brass guns, supposed to have been brought there by the Turkish fleet in 1530. In the 1 7th century, Aden contained 30,000 were purchased by the East India Company from the Sheikh, | inhabitants. When Lieut. Wellsted was there, in 1835, its population did not exceed 800 the descendants of Arabs and Somaulis, and the offspring of slaves. Not a Turk remained in the town, and only about 20 families were engaged in mercantile pursuits; the remainder gaining a miserable subsistence by supplying the Hagy (pilgrimage) boats with wood and water, or by fishing. A few Banians monopolized the greater part of the trade; and about 250 or 300 Jews, with their wives and families, occupied a separate quarter. (Niebuhr s Arabia; Salt s Abyssinia; Wellsted s Travels in Aralia,vo\. ii.; Wilkinson s Modern E(jypt,v(A. ii. pp. 45, 46 ; Account of Aden, by J. P. Malcolmson, Esq., Civil and Staff Surgeon, in Jour. Hoy. Asiatic Koc., vol. viii., p. 279; Brown s Remarks on Aden, in Nautical Magazine, 1847, p. 246.) ADEN (GULP or), the name now generally given to the tract of sea lying between the N. coast of Somauli, terminating E. with Eas Jerdaffoon (Cape Guardafui), and the S. coast of Arabia, be tween Ras Arrah and Eas Agab; the former in lat. 12 40 N.; Ion. 44 E. ; the latter in lat. 15 15 N.; Ion. 51 30 E. Its length, from E. to W., is thus about 480 m. ; its breadth, from N. to S., varying from 160 to 200 m. The to whom they belonged, to be made a depot for coals, and a principal bays, harbours, and inlets, on the Arabian side, calling station for the mail steamers between India and Su and the result is, that not less than 24,000 tons of shipping about 20 m. E. Eas Arrah; Aden Bay and Harbour, th sly the depots with coals. The former called Bander Tuwayyi by the natives ; M dsit the port annually, to supply the depots are Khore Amerra, a basin-like inlet, of 3 or 4 m. in extent, ur, the Maculla, or son of the Sheikh who had sold the town refusing to deliver Makallah Bay, one of the best harbours on the coast, in about it up, a naval and military force was sent out, in 1 840, to take lat. 1 4 30 40" N. ; Ion. 49 1 2 20" E. ; and Sharma Bay, in possession of it; which was done. The place was afterwards about lat. 14 40 N. ; Ion. 49 E. On the African side 01 the attacked repeatedly by the Arabs, who, being repulsed with I gulf, there are only two bays, or harbours, of any note; these loss on every occasion, finally left the town in quiet possession are Zeyla, in lat. 11 17 N. ; Ion. 43 5 E. ; and Berbera, in of the English. Since then, its improvement has been rapid. Capt. Haines, of the Indian navy, the governor, writing from Aden, June 2, 1843. says: The city continues to increase; and supplies of all kinds are plentiful. The pop. is now about 22.000, instead of 600, as in former times. It is a busy, lively place. We have as many as four steamers a-month ; and trees and gardens are springing up on all sides. The pop. now (1850) is estimated at about 40,000. Coffee of the best quality, and all the other commodities which enter into the commerce of the Eed Sea, are procured here; including the gums, myrrh, frankincense, and balsams, imported from the N.E. districts of Africa. The station is thus important to Britain, both in a commercial and political point of view. The peninsula of Aden resembles the rock of Gibraltar, and could be rendered as formidable. The town is now in a fair way of becoming the entrepot and point of transit for the commerce of Arabia and Abyssinia, to the detriment of Mocha. Aden, says a French geographer, is unique as a military position. As a Eoman commercial colony, in the time of Constantine, it was famous for its lat. 10 22 N. ; Ion. 45 10 E. The latter is one of the most considerable bays on this coast ; and, though little known to Europeans, is much frequented by trading vessels from the coast of Arabia and the adjacent parts. During the months of January, February, and March, E. and E.N.E. breezes prevail in the gulf. In April and May, the winds are gene rally light, varying from E.N.E. to S.E. and S., with clear weather. In the former month, the mercury rises to 80 and 86; in the latter, from 84 to 95. In June, July, and August, the weather is generally hazy. From September to December, both inclusive, the winds are principally from E. to E.N.E., with pleasant weather, and a temperature ranging between 76 and 84. The Gulf of Aden is known also by the names of Sea of Bab el-mandeb and Gulf of Arabia. (Haine s Memoir ofilie S. and E. Coasts of Arabia; Horsburgh s East India Directory, &c.) A DEN AHA, or ADANARA, an isl. and its cap. in the Indian Archipelago, belonging to the Dutch. The island lies E. of Flores, from which it is separated by the strait of the same name; lat, 8 17 S.; Ion. 123 14 E. (R.) ; about 35 m. long. It is mountainous and impregnable fortifications, its great trade, and its excellent by about 15 m. broad. It is mountainous and well wooded, ports, which received vessels from all parts of the known with a river on its E. coast. Besides the cap., Adenara, which world. In the hands of England, it is sure to recover its has a haven, there are the villages of Carma, Labetau, Lamau, prosperity and supremacy over all the surrounding countries, Lamabula, and Trony. This island belonged formerly to the more particularly over Yemen; and to be a stumbling-block Portuguese, who have still a possession on it, named Woeri, which carries on a little trade with Coopang. ADENAU, a tn. Prussia, prov. Lower Ehine, gov. of, nd 30 m. W.N.W. from Cobleiitz, on one of the tributaries of in the way of the future commercial relations between France and Abyssinia. (Lacroix, Annuaire des Voyagesetde la Geo- graphie for 1844.) In the llth, 12th, and 13th centuries, Aden maintained an the Ahr; 2434 ft. above the sea. It has a church and chapel; extensive trade with India and China, and was then the manufactures, on a small scale, of woollen and linen fabrics; entrepot of the riches of the East. Its decay dates from the three corn-mills; some tanneries; and six annual markets, discovery of the passage round the Cape of Good Hope. In In the vicinity are iron and lead mines. Pop. 1430. 1835, according to Wellsted, all that remained of the former ADEKNO [anc. Adranum or Hcidranum], a small tn. city were four minarets, about 100 houses, and some disjointed Bicily, prov. of, and 18m. N. W. from Catania, and about 10 m. remnants of its walls; the rest being occupied by tombs, W.S.W. Mount Etna. It is surrounded by walls, and has mounds, and heaps of rubbish, roofless walls of older dwell- several churches and monastic establishments. The principal ADERRIG A DOUR church is in a liandsome square; tlie columns of its facade are of lava. The river Simeto, in the vicinity of the town, forms some remarkable cascades. Pop. 6623. ADERRIG, a par. Ireland, co. Dublin ; area, 759 ac. Pop. in 1841, 127. ADIAMAN [Hisn Nansur of Idrisi], a small tn. Asiatic Turkey, pash. Diarbekr ; 75 m. W. by S. from the tn. of that name, and 132 m. N.E. by N. Aleppo ; lat. 37 45 N. ; Ion. 38 32 E. It is of a circular form, with a mound in the centre, and is surrounded by gardens and groves. It contains 1 100 houses, several mosques, three ruinous khans, and a bath. Of the houses, 800 belong to Mahometans, and 300 to Christians. Mr. Ainsworth describes the country around ns consisting of nearly level grassy plains, well watered by rivulets. ADIGE [anc. Atissius or Atliesis; German, EtscJi], a large river, N. Italy ; it rises in the Khetian Alps, about lat. 46 30 N., and, after a winding course of about 180 m., chiefly S. anil W., falls into the Adriatic at lat. 45 10 N. ; Ion. 12 20 E. In its course through Italy, it passes Verona and Legnago, and is from 300 to 500 ft. wide below the former, to which point it is navigable. Being confined, like many other Italian rivers, between high artificial embankments, it is deep and rapid, and of difficult navigation, especially in the spring, when it is liable to sudden floods from the melting of the snow. The Adige and Po now enter the sea by one common delta, two branches of the former being connected with arms of the latter. This junction of the two streams at this point, has had the effect of accelerating the encroachment here of the new land upon the Adriatic. The principal affluents of the Adige are the Eisack, the Noce, and the Aviso. AD1NJ1K, a small tn. Asiatic Turkey, on the S. shore of the Sea of Marmora, from which it is distant about 1 m. ; lat. 40 20 N. ; Ion. 27 50 E. It is situated on high ground; is composed of from 400 to 500 houses, chiefly Turkish, and contains six mosques. It is a wretched- looking place ; but is surrounded with numerous relics of antiquity. ADI8HAM, a par. England, co. Kent; area, 1810 ac. ; handsome church, the Palmer charity. Pop. in 1841, 372. ADJYGHUR, a tn. and fortress, Hindoostan, prov. Alla habad, situated between Callinger and Pannali ; lat 24 50 N. ; Ion. 80 3 E. The fortress, enclosing a space of about 800 yards in breadth, is placed on a steep hill, and is inacces sible except by well-defended paths leading to the gates. It natives are fierce and warlike, and well acquainted with the use of firearms. ADMIRALTY ISLANDS,agroupofisl. in the S. Pacific Ocean, to the N. of New Guinea; between lat. 2 and 3 S. The largest Great Admiralty Island is between 50 and GO m. in length. They were discovered, in 1616, by two Dutch ships fitted out by a company of merchants of Alkmaar, and commanded by an experienced navigator, named Cornelius Schooten, who was accompanied by James le Maire, the son of a merchant of Egmont, as commissioner or supercargo, and to whom the discovery of the islands has been attributed, though on what ground is not evident. They have been called, with apparently more propriety, Schooten s Islands. They were visited, in 1761, by Capt. Carterct; by Morello, the Spanish navigator, in 1781 ; and by d Entrccasteaux, when in search of La Perouse, in 1793. They rise little above the level of the sea, but present a beautiful appearance, being covered with a luxuriant vegetation, and with dense groves of cocoa-nut trees the nut forming the principal food of the natives. The soil and climate are good ; but communication with their shores is rendered difficult by the formidable reefs and breakers with which they are surrounded. The islanders are black, but not of the deepest shade ; of large stature ; \vell- formed, and agreeable countenances, differing but little from Europeans. They go nearly naked, the only covering of the men being a shell, and of the women a girdle of matting. was besieged, and, after a resolute defence, taken by the British, in 1809. ADLINGFLEET, a par. England, co. York, W. Riding; area. 4580 ac.: m. S E. Howden. Pop. in 1841 , 448. ADMIRALTY GULF, Australia, N.W. coast, about 70 m. S.W.Cape Londonderry ; lat. 14 28 S.; Ion. 125 58 E. (K.) All this part of the coast, extending from N.W. Cape to Cape Londonderry, is subject to light winds during the E. monsoon, and occasionally to strong winds and gales from the N.W. during the W. monsoon. ADMIRALTY INLET, a bay, S. side of Barrow Strait, Their hair is black and crisp, and their whole bodies bedaubed with a composition of red ochre and cocoa-nut oil. Both sexes adorn themselves with shells. Accounts differ as to their dispositions; some navigators representing them as docile and friendly ; others, as the reverse. Their war weapons are pointed with flint, and their knives are made of the same material. Their canoes, formed of the trunk of a tree hollowed out, having the sides raised with boards, are skilfully constructed, and many of them of great length, reaching to 50 ft., though only 2 or 3 ft. wide. In these canoes, which carry large sails of matting, they glide along with amazing rapidity The chewing of betel is general amongst them. ADMIRALTY SOUND, Terra del Fuego. It extends inland, 43 m. S.E., having a width of 7 m. at the entrance, which gradually diminishes to 3. On its N. side, the shore is straight ; but the S. side has two deep inlets. It termin ates in a bay, affording anchorage in from 10 to 15 fathoms; but is very much exposed to N. winds. ADMISTON, or ATHELHAMPSTONE, a par. England, co. Dorset ; area, 290 ac. ; on the river Piddle. Pop. in 1841, 74. ADN1TH, a par. Ireland, co. Tipperary ; area, 855 ac. Pop. in 1841, 293. ADONI, or ADAVANI, a district and tn., S. Ilindoostan, Ealaghaut territories, bounded on the N. by the Toombiulra river. It was ceded, with the country to the S. of the Toom- budra and Krishna, in 1800, to the British Government. Its principal towns are Adoni, Chagee, and Goovoor. ADONI, cap. of the district, is 55 m. W.S. W. Kurnool ; lat. 15 40 N. ; Ion. 77 20 E. In 1787, it was taken and destroyed by N. America; lat. 73 40 N ; Ion. 83 W. The shores , TippooSaib; and added, along with the district, in 1 800, to of the inlet, or bay, and adjoining countiy, present a beau- Great Britain. It is now a place of little importance, tiful appearance from the sea; the latter consisting of | ADONY, a market tn. Hungary, circle of, and 24 m. verdant meadows, adorned with clumps of trees, on which E.S.E. from Stuhl Weissenburg, and 28 m. S. Buda; situated deer are seen depasturing in great numbers. The name, in a fertile country, on the right bank of the Danube. It Admiralty Inlet, has been given also to a deep indentation in has a Greek church, some Roman antiquities, and carries on the land recently discovered in the Antarctic seas, by ( apt. ! a brisk trade. Pop. 3180. Ross about lat. 64 15 S. and Ion. 58 W. This arm of the j ADORF, a tn. extreme S. of Saxony, circle of, and 28 m. sea is terminated, at about 20 m. from its entrance, by a S. from Zwickau, 15m. E.N.E. Hof, in Bavaria, and within placier. The S.W. land of the inlet, for about 10 m. is 4 m. of the Bavarian and of the Bohemian frontier. It formed of deep brown-coloured lava, and the W. coast of , lies in a rugged picturesque valley, on the Elster, near its perpendicular cliffs of basaltic rock. (Ross s Antarctic Expe- source ; has two churches and a public reading room ; and dition, 1839-43.) | carries on an active frontier trade. The inhabitants are. be- ADMIRALTY ISLAND, a large isl. on the W. coast sides, engaged in weaving, paper making, corn grinding, brew- of N. America, between the continent and George III. s ing, dyeing, vinegar making, tanning, in the manufacture of Archipelago ; 80 to 90 m. long, and 25 broad ; its centre is in \ musical instruments and strings, and in cattle rearing ; which lat 57 30 N. ; Ion. 134 40 W The shores are in some j last is carried on extensively. Pop. 2450. j.arts bold and rocky, in others low. It has some commodious | ADOUR, a river, France ; has its source in the mountain bays, well supplied with fresh water. Although the soil is ridge of the Tourmalet, dep. Ilautes Pyrenees. Its course scanty, being but a thin layer on a bottom of rock, it is is first N., then W. and S.W. and S.S.W., passing St. Lever covered with fine trees, mostly pine, mpasuring, some of them, ! and Dax, to the former of which it is navigable, and falls into 23 ft. in girth. The sea has made large encroachments on j the sea a little below Bayonne. Its whole length is estimated the island, as well as on the neighbouring continent. The at about 170m. The current is rapid ; and sometimes serious ADOWA BO ADRIANOPLE inundations are caused by tlie melting of the snows on the Pyrenees. The Adour conveys down timber from the Pyre nees; pitch and tar, rosin, cork, grain, brandy, &c., from Armagnac ; but a shifting bar at its mouth renders the passing in and out of vessels, which can only be attempted at high water, difficult, and sometimes dangerous. About the year 1500, the sands at Bayonne were suddenly thrown across the mouth of the Adour, forcing the river to seek a passage for itself to the N-, along the sandy plain of Cape Breton, till it reached the sea at Boneau, 2 1 m. from the point where it had formerly entered. In 1579, it was restored to its ancient channel by the celebrated architect, Louis de Foix, at the desire of Henry 111. ADOWA, or ADOUEII, a tn. Abyssinia, kingdom of Tigre*, on the left bank of the river llassam, a tributary of | the Tecazze, at an elevation of 6000 ft. above the sea, about 10 m. E. Axum ; lat. 14 1 N. ; Ion. 39 3 E. It lies partly on the slope, and partly at the foot of a hill ; the houses, of the usual Abyssinian form, being, according to Salt, regularly disposed in streets or alleys, and interspersed with small and well-cultivated gardens, and plantations of the snowy-blos somed wanscy. It is the chief commercial depot on the great caravan route from Massowa to Gondar; h?8 considerable manufactures of fine and coarse cotton cloths, iron, and brass ware ; and enjoys an extensive transit trade in lead, tin, cop per, gold, Persian carpets, raw Chinese silks, velvets, broad cloths, dyed skins, glass ware, ivory, and slaves. The trade is conducted chiefly by Mahometans, and the inhabitants, from their frequent intercourse with strangers, especially Eu ropeans, are said to be the most civilized of all the Abys- sinians. Pop. estimated by Salt at 8000. ADPAR, a tn. and bor., co. Cardigan, Wales, on the river Teifi, 10 m. E. by S. Cardigan. It has a little retail t rade, but no other kind of traffic. Its cattle fairs, however, of which there are 11 yearly, are well attended. Adpar, with Emlyn, contributes with Cardigan, Aberystwith, Lam- peter, and Tregaron, to return one member to Parliament. Pop. in 1841, 1619. ADRA [anc. Abdera] , an insecure port, Spain, in Andalu sia, prov. of. and 29 m. W.S.W. from Almeria, near the mouth i of the Adra; lat. 36 44" N. ; Ion. 3 11" W. (R.) ; on an emin ence facing the Mediterranean, much exposed to the E. and \V. winds. In form it is triangular, and its houses, generally only of one floor, form irregular, inconvenient, badly-paved, and dirty streets, with the single exception of one, called la Playa, which is broad, and has some elegant buildings. It has two little squares, a townhall, prison, brick parish church, several chapels, two endowed schools, and the remains of a Moorish castle, which formed part of the town s fortifications, now in ruins. The inhabitants are employed in agriculture, fishing, distilling brandy, and manufacturing lead from the ore procured from the extensive mines in the neighbourhood. The lead trade has increased considerably of late years, and both the manufactured produce and the ore are exported, chiefly to Marseilles, to the extent of about 5694 tons annu ally. The total exports of Adra, which, besides lead, include uilver, wine, and fruits, amount to about 130,000 annually. In the vicinity are cultivated grapes, wheat, barley, maize, sweet potatoes, sugar, &c. The cultivation of sugar, for merly extensive, has much fallen off since foreign sugar became cheap. Pop. 7400. (Madoz, Die. Espann.} ADRAGOOLE, a par. Ireland, co. Galway; area, 8442 ac. An extensive landslip occurred in this parish in March 1745. Pop. in 1841, 3321. ADBAMYTI [anc. Adramyttium], a tn. Turkey in Asia, pash. Anadolia, near the head of the gulf of the same name, 80 m. N. Smyrna ; lat. 39 35 30" N. ; Ion. 27 2 30" E. (R.) It is built upon a hill overlooking an extensive valley of olive plantations, and consists of nearly 1 000 houses, mostly Turkish. The streets are narrow and ill paved. It has a small port, from which are exported wool, olives, and gallnuts, chiefly sent to Constantinople; the only article that finds its way to the markets of Europe, is a little of the gall of Valonia. Pop. 5000. The Gulf of Adramyti has the large island of Mytilcne at its entrance, forming two passages to the gulf, one on the E , the other on the N. of that island. The E. passage is 10 m. wide, the N. about 5 ; there is deep water in both. ADRANOS, or EDRENOS, an anc. tn. Turkey in Asia, nn the left bank of a river of the same name, at the foot of a limestone hill, 10 m. S.AV. Mount Olympus, and 135 N.N.E. Smyrna; lat. 39 59 N. ; Ion. 28 55 E. It is now in ruins, but these are of a very imposing and interesting char acter. The principal consists of a large square building, 88 paces by 65. It is built of large liewn stones, put together without cement ; the wall remaining is about 30 or 40 ft. high. There are also some beautiful specimens of Ionic and Doric sculpture, and numerous columns, and traces of ancient walls. Mr. W. J. Hamilton is of opinion that these arc the ruins of Hadriani. (Hamilton s Asia Minor.} ADRA1JA, a vil. and commune, Venetian Lombardy, prov. of, and 16 m. N.E. from Bergamo. It lies in a moun tainous region, and the inhabitants are chiefly employed in agriculture and cattle rearing. The vicinity is noted for the quantity and flavour of its grapes. A large animal cattle fair is held in November. Iron, marble, and alabaster, are found in the neighbourhood. Pop. of vil. and commune, 2107. ADRIA [anc. Atria, or flatria], a city, Venetian Loin- hardy, 12 m. E. Kovigo, between the Poand the Adige. The present town is comparatively modern, being built with the materials of the ancient city, which stood a little to the S. of it. The latter was at one time a flourishing seaport, and gave its name to the Adriatic, from which it is now fully 15 m. dis tant ; the alluvial deposits of the Po, the Adige, and other smaller rivers having gradually filled up its harbour, and, in the course of ages, formed the tract of land which now inter venes between it and the sea. Many interesting relics of the ancient city are still to be seen, including baths, aqueducts, mosaic pavements, &c. The modern city is the see of a bishop. It has a considerable trade in cattle, grain, silk, flax, firewood, leather, and earthenware. The country around produces corn and wine. Pop. 10,400. ADRIANOPLE [anc. Adrianopolis ; Turkish, Adraneli, and Idreneh], a city of European Turkey, and long its cap. ; now chief place of the pash. of Adrianople, the largest of the empire, by the ancients called Thrace. The city lies on the left bank of the Tondja, near its junction with the MariUa; lat. 41 41 27" N. ; Ion. 26 35 41" E. (L.) It is a large and important city, being about 5 m. in circumference ; but the streets are remarkably narrow and dirty. It is the see of a Greek bishop, dependent on the patriarchate of Constantinople, The chief bazaar is an extensive building, being 300 paces long, and having six gates ; it is appropriated chiefly to the sale of jewellery, shawls, muslins, &c. The chief mosque is a splendid structure, with an immense number of windows. It has four lofty minarets, and the interior is richly decorated. This edifice is believed to be the finest Moslem temple extant. Another interesting building is the palace, once the residence of the Sultan Selim. The aqueduct which supplies the city fountains, is also a noble structure ; there are, likewise, numerous baths. I Jut with these exceptions, there is not much to interest the visitor ; many of the houses look as if deserted : grass grows in some of the streets ; and the whole place has an air of desolation. It is surrounded with old walls ; and further defended by a citadel, in which are an arsenal and a cannon foundry. Adrianople can scarcely be called a port, although the Muritza is navigable to within a short distance of it, during a portion of the year. Several fairs are held yearly in and about Adrianople, at which con siderable quantities of British goods are disposed of. Its importance has lately been increasing, as a central depot for merchandise destined for the consumption of its own pnshalic, and Bulgaria. There is a British consulate here. Silk and flax are the principal products of the district ; and the Adrian ople or Turkey-red dye, produced from the madder raised there, is famous all over the civilized world. The principal articles exported to Britain are hare skins, otto of roses, silk, yellow berries, and valonia. There is a considerable trade in tobacco and bees wax with Germany. The silk produced here is somewhat inferior to that of Broossa, and is chiefly consumed in the silk manufactories of Constantinople. The sheeps wool is the finest in Turkey ; and is mostly bought up ! for the French market. Sugar canes and rice, to a consider able amount, are grown in the territory, but chiefly for home | use. A few British vessels trade to Enos, the port of Adrian ople, and the number is on the increase. Other foreign ves sels there trading, are chiefly French and Austrian. Adrian ople was, in early times, a possession of the Bessi a Thracian tribe under the name Uscudama; and, finally, received that ADRIATIC SEA 81 AEGEAN SEA of Adrianopolis from the Roman emperor Adrian, who rebuilt it in the second century, and constituted it capital of the province of Mount Haemus. In August 1829, it was taken and occupied by the Russians, who retained it till the 14th of September, when they there signed a treaty of peace with the Porte. Adrianople is subject to the plague occasionally ; the latest severe visitations were those of 1836 and 1837. The surrounding territory is fertile. The city stands on the N. side of a large plain begirt with hills, on one of which it is partially built. It is approached by several bridges, over which strings of camels are usually seen passing. Pop. of city, nearly 100,000. (Parl. Reports, &c.) ADRIATIC SEA, or GULP of VENICE [Mare Adria- ticum, or Superum], a large arm of the Mediterranean, extend ing in a N.W. direction, from lat. 40 to 45 50 N., bounded, N. and N.E. by Austria, E. by Turkey, and W. and S.W. by Italy. It is about 500 m. in length, with an average breadth of about 100, excepting at the Strait of Otranto, where it does not exceed 45 m. in width. Its depth, between Dalmatiaand the mouths of the Po, is 22 fathoms; but a large part of the Gulf of Trieste, and the Adriatic, opposite Venice, is less than 12 fathoms deep. Further to the S., where it is less affected by the influx of great rivers, the gulf deepens con siderably. It has little or no perceptible tide, except at Venice, where there is a rise of a few feet. Notwithstanding the present shallowness of the Adriatic, there can be little doubt that its original depth was much greater than it is now, as was also its extent, the former being affected by the deposits of sand, marl, and tufaceous incrustations strictly analogous to the strata of which the subappenine and other hills of the Italian peninsula are composed which are rapidly accumu lating at the bottom; and the latter, by the low alluvial tracts forming along its borders. The most remarkable instance of these accessions of land occurs on the W. coast, where a series of lagoons, formed by long lines of sand bars, are rapidly filling up, and being converted into meadows by newly deposited mud brought down by the streams. Between the N. point of the Gulf of Trieste, down to the S. of Ravenna, there is an uninterrupted series of recent accessions of land, more than 100 m. in length, which, within the last 2000 years, have increased from 2 to 20 m. in breadth. It is cal culated that the mean rate of advance of the delta of the Po on the Adriatic, between the years 1200 and 1600, was about 27 yards a year; whereas, the mean annual gain, from 1600 to 1804, was 70 yards. (Lyell s Geology.) During summer, the navigation of the Adriatic is safe; but the S.E. gales in winter render it dangerous, vessels failing to make some of the bays on the E. side, running the risk of being stranded on the shoals on the W. The Italian and Venetian shores are low and sandy, without good ports, and bordered by dangerous shoals. The E. coast is high and rocky, and indented by num erous bays and gulfs, affording good anchorage. The princi pal are, the Bay of Avlona and Gulf of Drin, in Turkey; the Gulfs of Cattaro, Fiume, and Trieste, in Austria; and the Gulf of Manfredonia, in Italy. The chief trading ports are Avlona, Fiume, Trieste, Venice, Ancona, and Otranto. ADRO, a tn. Venetian Lombardy, cap. of district of same name, prov. of, and 10 m. W.N.W. from Brescia, and 10m. N. Chiana. The inhabitants are chiefly occupied with agricul ture, raising grain, fruits, and vegetables, grapes, and olives, and in rearing silkworms. Pop. of tn. 2214; of district, 14,563. (Dizio. Univ. Italia.} ADSTOCK, a par. England, co. Buckingham ; area, 1130 ac. ; 3 m. N. Winslow. Pop. in 1841, 419. ADULIS, ADULE, or ZULLA, the ruins of an ancient tn. Abyssinia, territory of the Dankali, near the head of Annesley Bay, on the W. coast of the Red Sea, 30 m. S.S.E. Arkeeko ; lat. 15 15 N. ; Ion. 39 55 E. The ruins are situated at a distance of 3 m. from the sea, and consist merely of a few square columns and capitals, without either inscriptions or sculptures. Adulis, however, was a place of note at a very early period. In the sixth century, it was the port of Axum, and was the seat of an extensive traffic in ivory and slaves, and the medium of a large general commercial intercourse with Arabia and India. An inscription, on a tablet of white marble, found here in 525, by Cosmas, a merchant of the period, records that Ptolemy Euergetes, king of Egypt, under took an expedition to Adulis, from which point he pushed his conquests along both shores of the Eed Sea; and, on the African side, subjugated the seaport states as far as Zanzibar, and the countries inland as far as Shoa. ADVENTURE BAY, a large semicircular bay in Brune Island, off the S.E. coast of Van Diemcn s Land ; its entrance, which is 8 in. in width, is formed by Cape Cancle, or Fluted Cape, on the S., and Cape Frederick Henry on the N. It was discovered, in 1773, by Captain Furneaux, who gave it the name of his ship, the Adventure. It was again visited by Captain Cook in 1777, and by Captain Bligh in 1788 and 1792. The bay is well sheltered, the anchorage good, and abundance of wood and water is to be found on its shores. ADVENTURE ISLAND, a small isl. S. Pacific Ocean; lat. 17 4 S.; Ion. 144 14 W. (K.) ADVENTURE SOUND, and HARBOUR, E. Falk land Island. The former is a bay 20 m. in length, and from 3 to 4 m. in breadth, containing some good harbours, and several islands, clothed with tussac grass ; its shoals are fringed with kelp. Adventure Harbour is in the S. part of the sound, and is one of the best in it. ADWELL, a par. England, co. Oxford ; area, 500 ac. In the vicinity is Adwell- Cop, an ancient Danish entrenchment. Pop. in 1841, 46. ADWICK-LE-STREET, a par. England, co. York, W. Riding; area, 2950 ac.; 4m. N.W. Doncastcr; Hedge s charity. Pop. in 1841, 554. ADW1CK-UPON-DEARNE, a par. England, co. of York, W. Hiding; area, 1130 ac.; near the spot where tha North Midland Railway crosses the Dearne and Dove Canal. Pop. in 1841, 180. ^EGADEAN ISLANDS, a group of islands lying off the W. end of the isl. of Sicily, between lat. 37 55 and 38 5 N. ; Ion. 12 and 12 26 E. They are five in number, namely, Maritimo, Favignana, Levanso, and the two For- miches. Maritimo, the most westerly, rises to the height of 2376 ft., and is about 7 m. in circumference. It contains 50 or 60 inhabitants, who subsist by cultivating the ground, collect ing honey, and exporting faggots. Favignana, the largest of the islands, is 14 m. in circumference. It derives a con siderable revenue from its tunny and anchovy fisheries, its stone quarries, and from the sale of sheep, goats, and poultry. The island abounds in game, and hares and rabbits are plenti ful ; fish also is abundant. Levanso, 3 m. N.E. by E. Favignana, is about 6 m. in circumference; it is high, of rugged appearance, and accessible only at two or three spots. Its chief produce is faggots; but the few residents who are on the island cultivate a little grain and fruit, and rear a small number of sheep and goats. There is excellent fishing all round the island, but particularly on its S. side. The Formiches are two low, barren, rocky islets, lying at the distance of between 2 and 3 m. E.S.E. Levanso; they are separated from each other by a channel ^ m. wide. AEGEAN SEA, or GRECIAN ARCHIPELAGO. The former, a name given by the Greeks and Romans to that part of the Mediterranean lying between Asia Minor on the E., Greece and part of Turkey on the W., and the shores of Roomelia, in the latter country, on the N. Its length, from N. to S., is about 400 m. ; its breadth, generally, upwards of 200, ex cepting at Cape Doro, at the S. extremity of the island of Negropont, where it narrows to 90 m., but afterwards expands to nearly its former width. Its depth is very great, there being no bottom with 200 fathom line, at less than a mile from the shore. It contains numerous islands, many of which are of volcanic origin; others are composed entirely of a pure white marble. The more southern were distributed by the ancients into two chief groups, called, respectively, the Cyclades, from their supposed circular arrangement; and the Sporades, or Scattered Islands, the former comprising those lying to the W., and now considered part of Europe ; the latter, those dispersed along the Asiatic coast. Some of the islands have an exceedingly picturesque appearance, and are very fertile, producing wine, oil, gum mastic, wax, raisins, figs, silk, honey, olives, lemons, and oranges. The climate is more equal and temperate than that of the adjoining con tinents. Several of the larger islands contain sulphur, alum, iron, and other minerals. Most of them are high, their moun tain elevations having an average height of 1500 to 1800 ft. All the islands are thinly peopled ; but the men are a fine athletic race, and, from their insular position, make excellent sailors. The religion of the inhabitants is that of the estal)- JEGINA AFFRIQUE lishcd Greek church. Professor E. Forbes, in dredging the -<Egean Sea, has ascertained that there are eight well-marked regions of depth, each characterized by its peculiar testaceous fauna. The first of these, called the littoral zone, extends to a depth of 2 fathoms only; but this narrow belt is inhabited by more than 100 species: the second region is almost equally populous ; and in the eighth, no less than 65 species of testaeea have been taken. The majority of the shells in this lowest zone are white, or transparent. Only two species of mol- lusca are common to all the eight regions, namely, Area lactea, and Cerithium lima. Among the principal islands of the yEgean Sea, are Santorin, Stampalia, Cos, Kalinmo, Aniorgo, Milo, Paros, Naxia, JSyra, Mikoni, Andro, Nikaria, Sainos, Khio, Skyro, Mitilini, Lein- nos, Imbro, Sainotraki, and Thasos (all of which see, under their respective, names). ./EG1NA, ECIINA, or ENGIA, an isl. Greece, with cap. of same name. The isl. lies in the Gulf of ^Egina [anc. $aronicus Sinus], 10 in. S. by \V. Athens; lat. (Mount Elias on the S. part) 37 41 9" N. ; Ion. 23 30 E. (R.) It is 8 m. in length, and about the same breadth ; is in general fertile, particularly in the W. part, where it is level, and enjrys a delightful climate, the atmosphere being so pure, that epidemic fevers, the scourge of the Morea, are unknown in it. The principal agricultural productions are corn, cotton, wine, olives, figs, almonds, &c. yEgina was anciently celebrated for the splen dour of its buildings, but almost the only remains consist of some tombs, vestiges of wells, a mosaic pavement, and a few of the columns of the famous temple of Jupiter, Panhellenius, or the Panhellenium of ^Egina, one of the most ancient in Greece. These ruins stand on an eminence of considerable height, called Mount St Elias. It was of the Doric order, and had a portico of six columns at each end, and ranges of 12 columns along each side, the columns on the angles being counted both in flank and in front; internally, it was divided into what may be termed nave and aisles, by two ranges of columns, the space between which was uncovered. The extreme length of the temple is 90 ft., measured at the base of the columns, by 45 in breadth. The columns, of which there were originally 36, now 23, are nearly 5J dia meters in height. The sculpture of the yEginetans was of a character so peculiar, as to constitute a distinct style of art, frequently alluded to by ancient writers. Specimens of these sculptures were discovered, in 1811, among the ruins of the Panhellenium, by a party of English and German travellers. In recent times, the island of JEgma. has again begun to rise into prosperity and importance. On a ridge, which is separated by a narrow valley from the hill of the Panhellenium, are the ruins of a town, built, and for some time occupied, by Vene tians. To facilitate their commercial enterprises, this situation was abandoned, and the inhabitants removed to the site of the ancient city, on which now stands the modern ^Egina. This comparatively recent town is regularly built, and has some good houses, an orphan asylum, museum, library, and laza retto. For some time it was the residence of the Greek senate and governor, and its various institutions were in a fair way of prospering ; but the removal of the court to Athens, along with the library, and other stores of yEgina, have caused the latter greatly to decline. The pop. of the town is about 10,000. ^Egina was, at an early period, occupied by colonies from various parts of Greece; and in the sixth century B.C., the yEginetans had attained to great wealth and importance. They sent 30 ships of war to the battle of Salamis, where the valour of those who manned them contributed much to the fortune of the day. After the war with Persia, there arose between Athens and JEgina. disputes, which terminated in the former taking possession of the island, and expelling its inhabitants. Their capital, ^gina, which, in the reign of Tiberius, was destroyed by an earthquake, stood upon the W. coast. Its only remains are the fragments of a temple, the moles of its harbour, and some traces of its walls, on the landward side. Pop. of the island, exclusive of the town, 6000. (Gilford s Ionian Inlands; Balbi, Abreye, &c.) AELTERE, or AELTEK, a commune and vil. Belgium, prov. E. Flanders, situated near the canal, about 14 m. W. Ghent. It is a station on the railway between that city and Bruges. Here are tanneries, breweries, and distilleries. It has some trade in linen. Pop. of commune, 5964. AEXG, a tn. Aracan, on the left bank of a river of same name, 80 m. S.S.E. tn. of Aracan ; lat. 19 50 N.; Ion. 94 10 E. It was formerly an important emporium for goods, but had now much fallen off. The river is not navigable except dur ing floods, and then only for the boats of the country. The situation of Aeng is tolerably dry and healthy ; and, in the environs, are grown tobacco, cotton, ginger, and peppers, of good quality; but agriculture is much restricted on account of the destruction caused by the troops of elephants that infest the country. AEROE, or ARROE, an isl. Denmark, in the Little Belt, about 8 m. E. from the isl. of Alsen; lat. 54 50 N.; Ion. 10 20 E. ; about 15 m. long, and 5 m. broad at the broadest part. It is hilly, but fertile, and is now destitute of wood, although at one period covered with it. Its N.E. coast is beset with shallows. Products, the same with those of the island of Funen, to which province it belongs, and from which it is but 7J m. distant. It contains several towns, and ] 6 villages, and is, in proportion to its extent, the most populous district in the kingdom. The principal town, Aeroeskjobing, is situated on the S.E. side of the island; has a pop. of about 1600; carries on a considerable trade in corn, &c. ; and owns about 50 boats and vessels of different sizes, with a tonnage amounting, altogether, to about 1260 tons. Pop. of the isl. 10,200. (Baggesen, Dcr dcinische stoat.) AERSCHOT, or AARSCHOT [Latin, Arschotmm], a tn. Belgium, on the Demer, prov. S. Brabant, district of, and 8 in. N.E. from Louvain, and 23 m. N.E. Brussels. It is a place of some antiquity; and, in the 12th century, was the capital of a county of the same name. It was celebrated in the wars of the United Provinces ; and was taken by the French in 1 746 and 1793. The ruined tower of Aurelian is all that remains of its ancient fortifications. The parish church is an antique edifice. There are here some gin distilleries ; lace is manu factured; and there is some trade in wood and grain. Pop. 3895. AERSEELE, a vil. and commune, Belgium, prov. W. Flanders, district of, and 14 m. N.E. from Courtrai. It has some trade in flax, thread, and linen. Pop. of commune, 3558. AERTRYCKE, a vil. and commune, Belgium, prov. W. Flanders, district of, and 7 m. S.W. from Bruges. It has a considerable trade in flax, linen, and wood. Pop. of com mune, 3185. jETOLIA, a division of ancient Greece, which may be said, generally, to lie between the Gulf of Patras and the Pin- dus mountains. The ancient inhabitants a mixed race from various parts of Greece had a warlike and predatory charac ter. Their cavalry was at one time esteemed superior to any other in Greece; and, for a long period, they successfully resisted the power of Macedonia. Their government was originally a monarchy, which, in a short time, was succeeded by a sort of republic, composed of a number of independent states. On the establishment of Roman dominion in Greece, yEtolia became a part of the great Roman province of Achaia. In later times, the country was alternately subject to the Greeks and Turks, and now constitutes, with Acarnania, ona of the political divisions of modern Greece. AEZCOA, a valley, Spain, Navarre, on the S. slope of the Pyrenees; having 3100 inhabitants, partly employed in tillage, but mostly in smuggling contraband goods across the French frontier. AFFANE, a par. and vil. Ireland, co. Waterford; area, 7773 ac. Noted for its fine cherries, introduced by Sir Walter Raleigh. Pop. 1841, 2115. AFFOGADOS, a vil. Brazil, prov. Pernambuco, near the sea, on the left bank of one of the mouths of the Capi- baribe, and 3J m. S. Recife or Pernambuco. It has three churches, and a harbour suitable for large vessels ; and car ries on some trade in cotton and sugar. Pop. 1000 (Die. Gco. Imp. Brazil.) AFF-PUDDLE, a par. England, co. Dorset; area, 4940 ac. ; on the river Piddle, 8 m. E. by N. Dorchester. Pop. in 1841, 507. AFFRIQUE (Sr.) [Latin, Sanctum Afncanum], a tn. France, dep. Aveyron, cap. around. 30 m. S.S.E. Rhodez; situ ated in a fine valley, between two mountains, on the Sorgue, surrounded by meadows, orchards, and vineyards. The streets j are, in general, broad; but the houses are, for the most part, i old fashioned and ill built. The principal public edifices are AFGHANISTAN 83 AFGHANISTAN an hospital, courthouse lately erected, the parish church, and a beautiful fountain placed -in the centre of the principal street. It is the seat of a tribunal of premiere instance, and of commerce; also of a communal college, and a society of agriculture It is now the third town in the department for commerce; and has manufactories of woollen cloths, serges, coverlets, cotton yarn, and hosiery, as well as works for tanning and dressing leather. A good deal of business is done here in Iloquefort cheese ; and here the manufacturers of Castres and Carcassonne obtain their supplies of wool. The town was formerly well fortified. Pop. in 1846, 6760. AFGHANISTAN, the land of the Afghans, an extensive, but imperfectly known territory of Central Asia. It is by some writers called Cabool, or Caboolistan, though this would seem to have been the name of an empire much more exten sive than what is now recognized as Afghanistan. It is likewise at times called Kandahar; and also, though very ineptly, E. Persia. What is now generally understood by Afghanistan is that territory lying between lat. 26 55 and 36 25 N., and Ion. 59 19 and 72 E.; bounded, N. by Khiva, Bokhara, and Biulakshan; S. by Beloochistan, and part of Sinde; E. by Damaun (its limits in this direction, however, being sometimes extended to the Indus) ; and W. by Persia. Its extreme length, from N. to S., is about 615 m., its breadth about 600. The N.E. portion of the territory is crowded with lofty mountains, and is called, on this account, Kohistan, or Land of Mountains. These belong to the central Hindoo Koosh or Indian Caucasus a con tinuation of the Himalaya range, and rise to a stupendous height. The magnificence and variety of their lofty sum mits, says Mr. Elphinstone, and the awful and undisturbed solitude which reigns amid their eternal snows, fill the mind with an admiration and astonishment that no language can express. The ascertained heights of the most elevated summits, vary from 18,000 to considerably upwards of 20,000 ft. The loftiest peak is about 42 m. N.N.W. of Cabool. This mountainous region is traversed by numerous passes; the greatest number, and most remarkable of which, are between the 68 and 69 E. Ion.; the highest are those of Ilajeekuk and Kaloo, respectively above 12.000 ft. The other passes, within the limits mentioned, are those of Oonna, j 11,000 ft. ; Karakootal and Akrobat, each about 9000 ft. ; and | Shikun, 8040 ft. In the defiles of these mountains, the road | frequently passes the base of a mural precipice, rising per pendicularly to the height of 2000 and 3000 ft., and exhibits monuments of solemn grandeur, which it is difficult to describe. (Lieut. Burnes.) It was in the defiles of the Kurkutcha mountains E. from Cabool, between Tezeen and Jugduluk, that the British army was exterminated in 1842. The whole of the passes are free from snow about the end of June, but the most elevated peaks continue covered throughout the year. Notwithstanding the great elevation of these regions, the heat of the sun, at mid-day, in summer, is intense, and vegetation extremely rapid. Lieut. Burnes found the inhabitants ploughing as the snow left the ground, at a height of 10,000 ft. ; the chief crop being a kind of barley, without husk. The loftier parts of the Hindoo Koosh are entirely destitute of wood, and, in many places, of verdure ; but aromatic plants abound, and afford a pasture peculiarily favourable to sheep. The asafetida plant also flourishes here in great luxuriance; and is eaten with avidity by the natives, though having the same offensive odour in the fresh as in the preserved state. The valleys, in this elevated region, present a striking contrast to the sterility of the mountains, being stored with the finest fruit trees, and clothed with a rich verdure; the sides of the lower hills, also, are covered with forests of pine, oak, and wild olive. The other ranges of mountains that traverse Afghanistan are the W. Hindoo Koosh, or Ghoor Mountains (anc. Paropamisus), a continuation of the central Hindoo Koosh, and the Solinian Mountains. The former skirt the N. boundary of the territory, extending for about 350 m. from E. to W. They attain no great height, but are rugged and barren, of difficult access, and little known. The latter traverse the country from N. to S., parallel with, and close to, its E. limit. They are connected with the central Hindoo Koosh by the Khyber and Salt Hills; and their height, though much inferior to the former, is still considerable; Mount Soliman, on which the ark is said to have rested, attaining an elevation of 12,000 ft. VOL. I. Their whole length is also about 350 m., lying between the 29th and 34th parallels of N. lat. There are numerous minor hills scattered over the various parts of the country; but the most extensive system will be found between the 30th and 32d parallels of N. lat., and the 6G and 68 E. Ion. ; covering a space of about 150 m. in length, by about 120 in breadth, having the Kurklckee hills on the S., and the Gantee hills on the N. In the extension of the former into the adjoining territory of Beloochistan, is situated the famous Bolan Pass, so important in a military point of view, and through which the Bengal army marched in 1839. Although by far the greater portion of Afghanistan be a land of rocks, mountains, and desert, and some of the former of the most inhospitable character, there are yet a number of fertile valleys, well watered, covered with clover, thyme, violets, and many odoriferous plants, and remarkable for their picturesque beauty. In these favoured spots grain is grown in abundance; and, as elsewhere mentioned, fruits of all kinds, including oranges, citrons, grapes, pomegranates, apricots, apples, quinces, peaches, pears, plums, almonds, and walnuts. The most extensive of these valleys or plains are those of Cabool and Peshawur; but there is also an exceed ingly rich level tract in the vicinity of Herat. A great part of Seistan is mere desert, as is likewise a large portion of the S. and S.W. part of the country, extending over a space of about 300 m. in length, by 100 in breadth. There are few large rivers in Afghanistan, and none that is not fordable throughout its course for the greater part of the year. The principal are the Cabool, Helmund, Furrah- Rood, Lora, Gomul, Khaush, Shahbund, and Urghesan, besides several minor streams. Most of these rivers are found flowing through the centre of the kingdom, but, with the exception of the Ilelmund, which is said to be 400 m. in length, their courses are comparatively short, many of them being lost in swamps and deserts in the interior. There are no lakes in Afghanistan, if we except two sheets of water, which are rather morasses or lagoons than lakes; one of these is called Ab-Istada, and is situated about 50 m. S. by W. Ghuznee ; the water is salt, and the banks are deeply incrusted with that mineral. Authors differ as to its extent, this depending on the quantity of rain that falls, as in times of inundation its dimensions are doubled, being sometimes about 12 m. in diameter, at others less than the half; it is not thought to be more than 3 or 4 ft. deep, horses having been ridden into it, to the distance of 1 m. from the shore, without the water rising higher than their bellies. The other morass, or lake, is called Hamoon, a Persian word signifying a plain, and Zurrah, by which last it is distinguished in some maps; it is called, besides, by various other names both by Persians and natives. It is situated in Seistan, on the W. border of Afghanistan; and is about 50 m. in length from N.E. to S.W., and about 25 m. in breadth. It has rarely a depth of more than from 3 to 4 ft., and is almost entirely covered with reeds and rushes. The water of this lake, or swamp, is salt also, or at | least brackish ; the degree of saltness depending on its depth, and the nature of the bottom. The rivers Ilelmund, Furrah- Kood, and other streams, flow into this lake, from which there is no outlet, the increase of the waters being checked by evaporation merely. Minerals. These consist of gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, tin, antimony, zinc, rock salt, &c. Gold, so far as yet known, is chiefly confined to the streams that flow from the Hindoo Koosh, but is believed to exist in some of the other ranges also, although it has not hitherto been obtained in any great quantities. Silver has been found in small quantities in some of the valleys, and it is said that there are several mines of this metal in the Huzareh mountains, not at present worked. Copper abounds in many places, in the Kurkutcha range, in the vicinity of Tezeen, and to the S.E. of the city of Cabool, where it is believed the richest deposits are to be found. Lead and antimony are met with in the Ghorbund valley, and in the lower part of the Hindoo Koosh ; the latter exists also in the Khyber range, and in such quantity as to render the waters deleterious. Iron ore occurs in great abundance throughout the entire range of the Hindoo Koosh. Coal is found in the Kala range ; also at Dobundee, in the N. of the plain of Peshawur, and in the Huzareh country. Climafe. The climate of Afghanistan is various, depend ing more on the difference of elevation than on that of latitude, AFGHANISTAN AFGHANISTAN the cold being very severe in the higher regions, and the heat intense in the lower. These extremes are strikingly illus trated by the circumstance of the summits of the mountains being often covered with snow, while the heat of the plains below is all but intolerable. Sewee, situated in Sewestan, the territory forming the S.E. portion of Afghanistan, and in lat. 29 20 N., and Ion. 67 58 E., is reckoned the hottest place in the territory. It is also extremely hot at Kandahar, the thermometer in summer being frequently above 110 in the shade, while in winter the inhabitants suffer from cold, fuel being extremely scarce. At Cabool, the snow lies for several months together, during which the people remain in their houses, and sleep, like the Russians, close to stoves, the thermometer falling to 5 or 6 below zero. At Glmznee, says Mr. Elphinstone, the cold is spoken of as excessive, even by the inhabitants of the cold countries in the neighbourhood ; and traditions prevail of the city having been twice destroyed by falls of snow, in which all the inhabitants were buried. But when the vernal equinox is past, the snow suddenly dis appears, the country is covered with young grass, the buds burst forth, and are soon followed by a profusion of flowers ; the inhabitants then throw aside their winter raiment for a thin dress of chintz or cotton, and often sleep at night under trees, or in the open air. The prevailing winds are from the west, and are in general cold, while the easterly winds are hot. The climate on the whole, however, is favourable to the human constitution, and in some parts highly salubrious ; diseases are few ; the principal are fevers, agues, smallpox, and ophthalmia. Vegetable Productions. Our knowledge of the vegetable productions of Afghanistan is limited. The most common trees in the mountains are pines of various kinds, a species of oak called baloot, and the wild olive ; all these are found at high elevations the first at a height of 1 0,000 ft. Inter mingled with these are the cypress, which attains a great size, walnut, birch, and holly. On the lower offsets of the Hindoo Koosh, the small leguminous plants from whose leaves and twigs the true indigo dye is extracted, grow spontaneously. On the plains are found the mulberry, tamarisk, acacias, date palms, willow, plane, and poplar. Besides these, many of the finest fruits of Europe grow wild, including grapes ; and also several kinds of bushes bearing eatable berries. The rose, jessamine, poppy, narcissus, hyacinth, tuberose, &c., are found in gardens, but some of them grow wild. Esculent vegetables are in general of inferior quality. Those cultivated are cab bages, cauliflowers, spinach, lettuce, onions, garlic, beetroot, &c. But it is in the production of fruits that Afghanistan excels ; few places supplying such a variety and abundance. Animals. The wild animals of Afghanistan are neither very numerous nor very formidable, with the exception of the wolves. Lions are few, small in size, and weak, and are chiefly confined to the hilly country about Cabool. But they differ so widely in their characteristics from the true, or African lion, that Mr. Elphinstone doubts whether they are lions. Tigers are found in most of the countries east of the range of Soliman ; but they also are of a weakly and timid nature. Leopards are numerous in Kolintan, but they do not attack man ; wolves, hyenas, jackals, and foxes are common every where. The wolves are particularly formidable during the winter, in the cold countries, when they move about in large bodies, destroying cattle, and frequently assailing persons who come in their way. Bears are numerous in the woody moun tains. Monkeys are found in the N.E. parts of the country, and wild sheep and goats are common in the mountain tracts in the north. In the wilds of the Soliman, and of some other mountains, a quadruped, called the markhur, is found. It is of considerable size, resembles an elk, and has very large horns. The other wild animals are the wild ass or gorkhar, the wild hog, the porcupine, various kinds of deer and goats, the wild dog, the ferret, and the hare. There are no elephants in a wild state, and no rhinoceroses, although these were formerly numerous. Of birds, the number and variety are considerable, including several kinds of eagles, and many kinds of hawks, amongst which are the falcon and goshawk. Herons, cranes, storks, wild ducks, geese, swans, partridges, and quails abound. Cuckoos and magpies, both unknown in India, are numerous in the colder regions of Afghanistan. The only reptiles requiring special notice are snakes and scorpions ; the former, however, are mostly inno cuous ; the latter are large and venomous, though their bite is rarely fatal. Turtles and tortoises are common. There are no crocodiles. Visitations of locusts are of rare occurrence, but their devastations have caused several famines. Bees are common. Mosquitoes are less troublesome than in India, except in Seistan, where they are very formidable. The domestic animals are the horse, camel, dromedary, mule, ass, ox, sheep, goat, dog, and cat. The horses of Afghanistan are not much esteemed, excepting those bred about Herat, which are of a superior description ; but a hardy race of ponies, called yaboos, is reared in the Huzareh country. The mules and asses are much employed, the former in carrying the baggage of armies, and the latter in conveying manure to the fields, &c. But the camel and dromedary are the usual beasts of burden, especially the latter. The ox is used for the plough, where horses are not to be had ; they are also used amongst the pastoral tribes for carrying their tents. The sheep, which form the great dependence of these tribes, are, like those of the Cape of Good Hope, remarkable for the size of their tails, which are about a foot broad, and of 10 or 12 Ibs. weight, composed entirely of fat ; their fleece is large and fine. Dogs are kept in great numbers, and are generally of good breeds ; the greyhounds are excellent, and are much used by the pastoral tribes in hunting. Amongst the cat kind, is a long-haired species called boorauk, which is much esteemed, and exported in great numbers, under the name of Persian cats, though nearly all from Afghanistan. Agriculture. Afghanistan is, on the whole, a poor and barren country ; vast tracts being covered with stones, so that the tillable part of the soil bears no proportion to the untill- able. The cultivators of the soil consist of five classes pro prietors ; tenants ; burgurs or metayers, who labour the land for a certain portion of the returns ; hired labourers ; and villeins, who cultivate their master s land for a mere subsist ence. Land is divided into irrigated and not irrigated, called abee and lulm, and its value is stated to be from 9 to 12 years purchase. The rent varies, according to situation and fertility, from one-tenth to two-thirds ; the latter being the usual rent around the town of Cabool. The common term for a lease is one or two years, the longest five. The ordinary remu neration of labourers is, for the season of nine months, 30 rupees, with food and clothing. There are two harvests in the year in most parts of the country ; one, sown in the end of autumn, and reaped in summer, consists of wheat, barley, peas, and beans ; the other, sown in the end of spring, and reaped in autumn, consists of rice, Indian corn, and maush. The first harvest is generally the most important. Besides these crops, there is another, comprehending musk melons, water melons, the scented melon, and various sorts of cucum bers, pumpkins, and gourds, which is looked upon as a distinct harvest. Wheat is the food of the people throughout the greatest part of the kingdom, the barley being given to the horses. Turnips are cultivated in great abundance in some parts of the country, and are used to feed the cattle. Ginger and turmeric are grown in the eastern countries ; sugar cane, to a small extent, on the rich plains ; and a little cotton in the hot climates. Madder is raised in great quantities in the colder regions. To these productions may be added asafetida, the plant of which, as elsewhere mentioned, is found wild on the hills. The prepared drug is exported to India, where it is a favourite ingredient in the cookery, both of Hindoos and Mahometans. Tobacco is also produced in many parts of the country. The most general mode of irrigation is from streams directed into the desired channels, by various contrivances and expedients. The land is always watered, where water can be obtained, before being ploughed. It is ploughed deeper than in India, and with a heavier plough ; all the sowing is broadcast. The place of a harrow is sup plied by a plank, on which the conductor stands to guide the cattle, and increases its effect by his weight. The crop is reaped with the sickle ; the grain is generally trodden out by oxen, and winnowed by being thrown up to the wind with a shovel. The grain is kept in large round hampers, supported by wooden feet, and plastered with mud, or in unburnt earthen vessels, and coarse hair-cloth bags. It is ground by windmills, water mills, and handmills ; the first is in general use in the west only, the handmill being the most common, particularly in the ruder parts of the country, and among the nomadic population. Both the wind and water mills differ AFGHANISTAN 85 AFGHANISTAN from those in general use in this country ; the former having the sails within the building, the wind reaching them through an aperture, and the wheels of the latter being horizontal, with the feathers disposed obliquely. The plough is generally drawn by oxen, but in some parts by camels. Trade and Manufactures. There being no navigable rivers in Afghanistan, and the country but ill adapted for wheel carriages, commerce is generally carried on by beasts of burden, chiefly camels, formed into caravans. The principal foreign trade is with India, Persia, and Toorkistan. The exports to India consist principally of horses, furs, shawls, chintz, madder, asafetida, tobacco, almonds, pistacia nuts, walnuts, hazel nuts, and fruits. The imports from India are coarse cotton cloths, muslins, silks, indigo, ivory, chalk, bamboos, wax, tin, sandal wood, sugar, and spices. The ex ports to Toorkistan consist chiefly of articles imported from India, such as white cloths, shawls, Indian turbans, chintz, and indigo. The principal imports are horses, gold, and silver. From Bokhara, cochineal, broad cloth, paper, tinsel, cast- iron pots, cutlery, and other hardware are imported, being brought there from Russia. To Persia are exported shawls and shawl goods, indigo, carpets, chintz, Indian brocades, muslins, and other cotton cloths. The imports are raw silk, silken stuffs, and a sort of strong cotton manufacture of various colours, called kudduk. The exports to Chinese Toorkistan are nearly the same as those to Bokhara. The imports are woollens, Chinese silk and satin, tea, porcelain, raw silk, cochineal, crystal, gold dust, golden ingots, &c. The trade with Cauferistan is trifling, consisting of wine, vinegar, cheese, clarified butter, and slaves. Slaves are also imported from Arabia and Abyssinia. The internal trade of the coun try is also considerable. The principal marts are Cabool, Peshawur, Kandahar, and Herat. The commerce and carrying trade of Afghanistan are prosecuted chiefly by the Sohanees, a pastoral tribe of Afghans who occupy the country eastward from Ghuznee to the Indus. Many of these are men of great opulence. They amount to 100,000 persons, and take with them 24,000 camels. The manufactures of the kingdom are very unimportant. At Cabool and Kandahar, woollen goods are manufactured, chiefly shawls ; but they are inferior to those of Cashmere, being stiff and harsh to the touch. The woollen fabrics of the country are rarely exported, as, from the scarcity of artificers, the want of machinery, and the great demand, there are not enough produced to supply the home market. At Peshawur, a coarse kind of cotton loongee is manufactured, which is exported through Tartary. The amount of British cloths sold in Afghanistan, in 1838, was 47,800 value; of Indian goods, 93,300. People. The population of Afghanistan is composed of a great number of different races and tribes, the principal of which are the Dooraunees, the Berdooraunees, the Ghiljies, DOORAUNEE AND ilERDUOKAUNEK. n Elphinstone s Cabuol and the Cauker tribe, all of which are again subdivided into numerous smaller families, or clans. Of these four principal races, the Dooraunees, who are divided into two great branches, Zeeruk and Punjpan. and these again into nine lesser tribes, are the most influential, on account of the extent of territory they occupy, and because the royal family and high ministers of state belong to them. They inhabit the tract of country occupying the central portion of W. Afghanistan, and are partly pastoral and partly agricultural. They lead a happy and in offensive life, having no feuds amongst themselves, and rarely any with their neighbours. They are fond of social enjoy ments, and delight in entertaining and being entertained. Their appearance is prepossessing ; they are stout, with good complexions, and fine beards, of which they take great care. Their demeanour is at once modest and manly. They never go armed except on journeys, when they frequently carry a match lock, with a long bayonet of peculiar construction fixed to it. The Berdooraunees occupy the N.E. part of Afghanistan, and, like the other races, are composed of various tribes, of which the most remarkable are the Eusofzyes, who are supposed to amount in number to about 700,000. Those of this race who inhabit the upper countries, are remarkably sober and free from vices; but those dwelling on the plains are notorious for every kind of debauchery, and are, in all respects, the worst of the Afghans. They are generally stout men, with fair com plexions, gray eyes, and red beards, and affect a military car riage, with an insolent and haughty demeanour. They are extremely quarrelsome, and of a savage disposition, but are, withal, brave and hospitable, active, acute, and industrious. Their arms are a spear, matchlock, long dagger, and sabre. The Ghiljies are, after the Dooraunees, the most eminent of the tribes. They are divided into two families, Toraun and Boorhaun, of which the first is divided into two, the second into six clans. The Cauker tribe inhabits the S. part of the Khakas country, N.W. from Sewestan, about the Toba and Khojah Amran mountains, and amounts, altogether, to about 200,000 in number. The total population is estimated, but from uncertain data, at rather more than 5,000,000. Religion. The Afghans are mostly Mahometan Soonnees, but all the Persians in the country are Sheeahs, and between these two sects the bitterest animosity prevails ; more indul gence being shown by the former to Christians than to the latter. The Sheeahs are more bigoted than the Soonnees . Besides these, there are numerous other sects, such as Sopffees, Zukkees, Koushameeas, &c. The first, says Mr. ETphinstone, are rather a class of philosophers than religion ists ; their leading tenet being, that nothing exists but God, all the rest being an illusion. No people can be more regular in performing their devotions than the Afghans. Their prayers begin before day, and are repeated five times ; the last of which falls a little after the close of the evening twilight. The hour of prayer is always announced from the tops of the minarets, and has a solemn and pleasing effect. The moollahs, or priests, are numerous. Their character and name are con ferred, by an assembly of members of the order, on candidates who have undergone a regular course of study and examin ation, the essential ceremony consisting in placing on the new member the turban of a moollah, which is white, very large, and of a peculiar shape. They are an influential body ; and, being composed mostly of active and intelligent men, have acquired an almost unlimited power and authority in the country. The education of youth, the practice of the law, and the administration of justice, are entirely intrusted to them. Their means of subsistence are, in the country, grants of land, and a tax, similar to tithes ; in towns, fees on mar riages, burials, &c., and the gifts of their congregations. Government, Public Revenue, Military Force, &c. Afghan istan was formerly a monarchy, the crown being hereditary in a branch of the house of Suddazye ; it is now divided into three chiefships Herat, Cabool, and Kandahar. The revenue of the first is about 200,000 ; the one half in money, the other in produce. Cabool is believed to have yielded, under a system of grinding taxation, about 240,000 ; and Kanda har about 80,000. The whole Afghan force, which is chiefly cavalry, amounts to about 16,000 men; they are but imperfectly disciplined, and are embarrassed by the mul titude of their arms, which consists of a long heavy matchlock, with a bayonet, a sabre, a blunderbuss, and three long pistols, a couteau de chasse, a dagger, and four or five knives, besides a shield. The Kuzzulbaushes are the most numerous and best portion of the Afghan army. The police of the country is very bad. In many parts of the kingdom, travellers can be secured from being attacked and plundered only by engaging an escort of the tribe, or by paying customs to its chief. In cases of robbery, the inhabitants of the district where it was A F1UM-K AK A-H ISS A II AFRICA committed are liable for the amount stolen, in the event of the thief not being forthcoming. The police does not interfere in cases of murder perpetrated by way of retaliation, except in towns and their vicinity. Justice is administered, in cities, by a cauzee, or cadi, assisted by inferior officers. Towtm. These are few in proportion to the extent of the country. The principal ones are Cabool, Kandahar, Herat, Peshawur, Dera Ghazee Khan, Dera Isniacl Khan, Ghuznce, Istalif, Charikar, Jelalabad, Kala Bagh, Kohat, Giriskh, Fur- rah, Subzawur, and Mittunkote (lohich see). History. Of the early history of Afghanistan little is known a circumstance the less to be regretted, that its interest commences only with modern times. In 1713, Nadir Shah conquered the country. Ten years afterwards, lie was murdered by the Persians, and was succeeded by Ahmid Shah, the founder of the Dooranee dynasty, who was crowned at Kandahar in 1747. His reign, which continued 26 years, was occupied with wars, external and internal. On his death, he was succeeded by his son Timur Shah, who was again succeeded by Zeniaun Shah, a younger son of the deceased prince. The latter was, in turn, displaced by his elder brother, Mahmood, by whom he was imprisoned, and deprived of sight. Mahmood was, subsequently, dethroned by another brother, Shoojiih-ool-moolk, who imprisoned him. In the course of the intrigues and convulsions which succeeded, Mahmood obtained his freedom, re-appeared in arms, and recovered the throne Shoojah having fled, and found a retreat, in the British territory. In the year 1837, the British Government, thinking it advisable to establish a friendly alliance with the ruling powers in Afghanistan, restored Shoojah to the throne by means of a large armed force ; but though engaged in maintaining the rights of a legitimate prince, the British troops were ultimately driven (April 1842) from the country, under circumstances of the most atrocious barbarity and treachery ; which, however, were amply avenged in the same year by another British army, under General Pollock, which, advancing through the Khyber Pass, recap tured Cabool, and re-established British supremacy in this quarter of the world. AFIUM-KAR A-HISSAR, or AFIYUM, or AFIOUM-KAEA- mssAR [Opium black castle], a large city, Asiatic Turkey, pash. Anatolia, cap. of the sanjuk of Karahissar, 186 m. E. Smyrna, and 170 m. S.E. by E. Constantinople ; lat. 38 43 15" N.; Ion. 30 50 E. Its situation, as will be seen from the accompanying woodcut, is sufficiently striking and picturesque. It stands partly on level ground, and partly on the lower acclivities of a series of rocky heights, rising from the former to the latter by a gradual ascent. AFIU.M-KARA-1IIS.SAH. Fiom Ltborda, Voja > Orient. The remarkable isolated rock which is seen towering loftily above the town, is from 300 to 400 ft. in nearly perpendicular height; and consists of red trachyte, containing large crystals of glassy felspar. It can be ascended only by a steep and j difficult path, winding up a narrow crevice. On the summit, [ from which a commanding view is obtained, are the ruins of a Byzantine or Turkish fort, a deep well, and several receptacles for water, partly of stone, and partly hewn out of the living rock. The entire circumference of the town is nearly 3 m. Most of the houses are of stone, and well built; but the streets are extremely narrow, and in some places very steep. It contains 10 mosques, one of which is a noble building, and several lofty minarets, which add much to its picturesque appearance. There are also two or three Armenian chapels, numerous khans and public baths, and an extensive range of substantial barracks, of recent erec tion. The streets and bazaars present a lively and bustling aspect, being always crowded with people a result of the advantageous position of the town, which is on the road from Smyrna to the East, towards Armenia, Georgia, Persia, and the countries bordering on the Euphrates; all the caravans to and from these places passing through it, as well as those proceeding to Constantinople to and from Syria. The shops and markets are thus amply stocked with European manufac tures and Eastern productions. Fabrics of wool and tapestry are amongst the staple articles of industry, but firearms and sabres are also an important branch of manufacture. The town had formerly a considerable trade in red leather, but it has now fallen off, as has also the demand for its saddlery, which was at one time in great request throughout all parts of the Turkish empire. The manufacture of carpets which is named amongst its staple products is chiefly carried on in the country between Afium-Kara-IIissar and Smyrna, and only to a comparatively small extent in the town itself. The principal trade of the place, however, is in opium (Afium), from which the town has derived its name. The quantity of this drug manufactured here annually has been variously stated, and is not perhaps accurately known. Niebuhr, who visited the town in 1837, states, that he ascertained it to be 180 mule loads, or about 20 tons. The poppy, from which it is made, is cul tivated in the neighbourhood; the species is chiefly the white, which is preferred on account of its capsules, and of the use ful bland oil obtained from its seeds. The best description of the opium manufactured here, and in other parts of Turkey, yields nearly three times the quantity of morphia afforded by East Indian opium. Afium is the residence of a pasha, and the seat of a bishop of Armenian Christians. Pop. between 50,000 and 60,000. AFRAGOLA, a small tn. Naples, 5 m. N.E. city of Naples, district of Casoria ; situated on a plain, with a humid atmosphere. It has several churches, and several straw-hat manufactories. AFRICA, one of the great divisions of the globe, and the third in point of extent. In form, it somewhat resembles an imperfect triangle, with its base N. and its apex S. Its entire length from N., to S., or from Cape Bianco on the Mediterranean, to Cape Agulhas, 100 m. S.E. from the Cape of Good Hope, is 5000 m. ; and its greatest breadth from E. to W., or from lias Jerdaffoon (Cape Guardafui) on the Indian Ocean, to Cape V r erde on the Atlantic, is about 4800 m. ; but in consequence of its irregular form, its area is only 12,000,000 sq. m. It has the Mediterranean on the N., the Atlantic on the W., the Southern Ocean on the S., and the Indian Ocean and lied Sea on the E. and N.E. It is thus wholly surrounded by sea, excepting where the narrow neck of land, called the Isthmus of Suez, connects it with Arabia. Its nearest approaches to the neighbouring continents occur at the Gulf of Suez, head of the lied Sea, at the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb, and at the Strait of Gibraltar; a few miles only separating it from the opposite shores at these points. Its coast line, which is con siderably upwards of 15,000 in. in length, is nowhere very deeply indented with bays or gulfs, if we except the Gulf of Guinea, on its W. coast. The other prin cipal indentations are the Gulf of Sidra, on the N. coast; the Bights of Benin and Biafra, on the W. coast; and Delago;i and Sofala Bays, on the E. coast. Its more remarkable pro- AFRICA AFRICA jcci ions are Capes Bianco and Spartel, on its N. shores ; Cape Verde, ou the N. W. ; Cape Agulhas, on the S. ; and Ras Jer- daffoon, or Cape Guardafui, ou the E. coast. There are hut few islands of any extent so close to its shores as to warrant their heing considered as specially pertaining to it. Amongst these few are the Bissagos, off the mouth of the Rio. Grande, in Senegambia; Fernando Po, in the Bight of Biafra; Prince s Island, and the islands of St. Thomas and Annobon, all in the Gulf of Guinea. On the E. coast are the Bazaruta and Queriniha Islands, and the islands of Zanzibar and Pemba. At greater distances are the Canary and Cape de Verde Islands, off the N. W. coast. Madagascar, the Comoro Islands, and Socotra, off the E. coast; Madagascar being separated from the continent by the Mozambique Channel, which has a width, at its narrowest part, of about 250 m. Table Lands, Mountains, and Deserts. From what is known of the physical conformation of Africa, it has been inferred that it is very generally composed of a vast series of table lands, rising in successive terraces from the coasts to the in terior. This is known to be the case in S. Africa, in Abys sinia, where they present the grandest features, and at various other points; and where not positively ascertained, has been presumed from the fall in the beds of rivers. Nothing, how ever, is known of the surface of these table lands in the interior, which yet remains unexplored. The most extensive range of African mountains with which we are acquainted, is that generally known by the name of the Mountains of the Moon, which commences at Kissi Kissi, about 200 m. S.E. Sierra Leone ; lat. 9 N. ; Ion. 9 20 W. ; runs in a S.E. direction, nearly parallel with the coast, and at a distance from it vary ing from 80 to about 150 m. to Ion. 26 E., when it suddenly takes a N.E. course, crosses the entire continent, and termin ates at Kas Jerdaffoon (Cape Guardafui) on the E. coast, a dis tance of upwards of 4000 m. The W. portion of this range, or that which runs parallel to the coast of Guinea, obtains the name of the Kong mountains, and, in some parts, the Snowy mountains. About Ion. 12 E., an offshoot of this vast chain, called the Cameroon mountains, apparently of volcanic forma tion, stretches down, in a S.W. direction, to the Bight of Bia fra, and, near the sea, attains an elevation of 13,000 ft. North of the Kong mountains are various lofty mountain ranges, running in a N. direction. Amongst these, are the mountains of Dombori and Batako. Between the meridians of 7 and 11 W., and the parallels of 11 and 14 N., another chain of rocky heights, rising to an elevation of from 2000 to 3000 ft., and cleft by tremendous ravines, skirts the Joliba or Niger. The next more remarkable mountains of Africa are those composing the Mount Atlas range (which set), beginning at Cape Geer or Ghir, 10 W. Ion., and extending E. as far as 50 W. Ion., where it approaches 32 N. lat. The distance from one side to the other of this range, has been estimated at from 30 to 40 m. ; and the height of the highest summit, Miltsin, 27 m. S.E. the town of Morocco, at 11,400 ft. above the level of the sea. The higher regions of these moun tains are seldom entirely free from snow. A mountain of great height has lately been discovered in E. Africa, by the Rev. Mr. Rebmann, of the Church Missionary Society. Mr. Rebmann places this mountain, which he calls Kiliman- djaro, or Kilima dja arc, Mountain of Greatness, in lat. 3 40 S., and Ion. 36 E. ; and represents it as being covered with perpetual snow, which, being so near the equator, would indicate a height of at least 20,000 ft. The mountain is described as having two summits rising to the limit of snow, of which the eastern is the lower ; it terminates in several peaks, covered, during the rainy season, far down with snow, but which in the dry season sometimes melts entirely away. The western summit is the proper perpetual snow mountain, which, rising considerably above its neighbour, affords also much more room for snow, being formed like an immense dome. The two summits are 10 or 12 m. apart. If the position of Kilimandjaro be correctly laid down by Mr. Rebmann, it will be about 600 m. due W. Mombas, on the coast of Zanzibar, and just so far into a hitherto unexplored country, of which nothing was previously known. In the province of Shoa, the mountains attain a considerable elevation ; that portion of it called Effat being entirely sur rounded by lofty and craggy hills. The great deserts of Africa are the Sahara, and those of Nubia and Libya ; the two latter, however, being merely con tinuations of the former, which is the largest desert in the world. The Sahara thus extends from the Atlantic Ocean nearly to the Red Sea, a distance of upwards of 3500 m., having an average breadth, until it reaches Nubia, where it is inter sected by the rich valley of the Nile, of from 600 to 900 m. Its entire area has been estimated at 700,000 m., a space equal to the superficies of the Mediterranean. (See SAHARA.) Rivers and Lakes. The principal rivers in S.W. Africa, beginning at its N. limit and proceeding S., are the Senegal, Gambia, Casamanza, Cacheo, the Jeba or Geba, the Rio Grande, the Nunez, the Sierra Leone River, the Adiri or Volta, the Quorra or Joliba (anc. Niger), the Zaire or Congo, the Coanza, and the Gariep or Orange River. In E. Africa there are few large rivers ; the most considerable are the Zambezi or Quillimane, and the Juba or Fumbo. The former rises in the table lands in the interior, and enters the Mozam bique Channel by several mouths, at lat. 18 S. ; Ion. 37 30 E. It is said to have a course of 900 m., and to be navigable, during the rains, for 200 or 300 m. from the sea. The Juba, which is said to rise in Abyssinia, falls into the Indian Ocean at the town of Juba, on the coast of Zanzibar, in lat. 0; Ion. 43 30 E. It is said to be navigable for boats to a great distance from the sea. The other principal rivers of E. and N.E. Africa, are the Hawash, in Abyssinia, the Atabara, the two principal branches of the Nile the Bahr-el-Abiad, or White Nile, and the Bahr-el-Azrek, or Blue Nile and the Nile itself. With the exception of the latter, there are no rivers of any magnitude, so far as known, in N. or N.W. Africa. The known lakes of Africa are few in number. The largest of which there is any certain account is Lake Tchad. It is situated in the territory of Bornou, and nearly in the centre of the continent; approaching the loth degree of N. lat., and under the 15th degree of E. Ion. It is about 220 m. long, and, at the widest part, about 140 m. broad. The other known lakes of Africa are the Debo, in Soodan, in the same latitude with the Tchad, and, under the 5th degree of W. Ion., traversed by the Niger; the Lake of Dembca, in Abyssinia, traversed by the Bahr-el- Azrek, or E. branch of the Nile; and the Njassi, in S.E. Africa, about which little is known. Neither of these, however, are of nearly such extent as the Tchad. Lakes are also met with within the ranges of Mount Atlas, the largest of which is called Lowdejah. To the lakes above enumerated, has now to be added a large one, recently dis covered (July 1849) in S. Africa, by the Rev. Robert Living stone, who places its N.E. extremity, though douhtingly, in lat. 20 20 S. ; Ion. 24 E. It is reported to be about 70 m. in length, and is at once the source and recipient of several fine streams. The largest of the former is the Zouga, which flows from the lake, first in a N.E., and latterly in a S.S.E. direction. It is described by Mr. Livingstone as a beautiful stream ; the banks are covered with gigantic trees, including a variety of the Baobab, some individuals of which measured from 70 to 76 ft. in circumference. The water of the river is soft, cold, and remarkably clear. It rises and falls peri odically, but the cause of this phenomenon is unknown. The natives, says Mr. Livingstone, paddle along the rivers and lake, in canoes hollowed out of the trunks of single trees ; take fish hi nets made of a weed which abounds on the banks ; and kill hippopotami with harpoons attached to ropes. We greatly admired the frank, manly bearing of these inland sailors : and I greatly enjoyed following the windings of the river in one of their primitive craft, and visiting their little villages among the reeds. The name of the newly discovered lake is Ngami, the Great Water. It is pronounced, Mr. Livingstone adds, as if written with the Spanish N ; the (j being inserted to show that the ringing sound is required. Minerals. Gold, gold dust, and iron, are amongst the best known of the mineral riches of Africa, and are the most generally diffused throughout that continent. In the countiy of Bainbouk, S. of the Senegal, where most of the gold that finds its way to the coast is obtained, the mines are open to all, and are worked by the natives of the adjoin ing villages. The richest gold mine known in Africa is that of Natakoo a small round isolated hill situated on a plain about 300 ft. high, and 3000 paces in circumference at the base. This eminence is of alluvial formation, being composed of an unctuous argillaceous earth. The gold here is found in the various forms of lumps, grains, and spangles ; every AFRICA AFRICA pubic foot being loaded, it is .said, with the precious metal. In searching for gold, the natives have perforated the hill, in all directions, with pits, or holes, 6 ft. in diameter, and 40 ft. deep The auriferous earth is first met with about 4 ft. below the surface, becoming more abundant with increase of depth. At a depth of about 20 ft., lumps of pure gold, weighing from 2 to 10 grains, are found. Forty in. N. of J Jxatakoo, are the gold mines of Semayla. The source whence \ the gold is obtained here, is of a wholly different nature from that of the former. The hill, instead of being of soft argil laceous earth, is composed of rock and sandstone, and has to be pounded in a mortar to get at the gold. Gold is found, also, in the beds of the rivers in this neighbourhood. The next richest gold mine in this part of Africa, is that of Nambia ; situated at the back of the western chain of the Tabaoura mountains. It is found in a hill similar to that of Natakoo, but is of a paler colour ; and is, on this account, preferred, being more ductile and malleable. In a valley E. of the Kio d Oro, is the mine of Kombadyria an isolated mount of argillaceous earth, as in the former two cases. Here, too, the beds of the .adjacent streams contain gold, which, in this part of W. Africa, is found distributed over a surface of 1200 sq. m. Before being employed as an article of commerce, the gold is melted down and formed in to earrings or other trinkets ; never being offered for sale excepting in a manufactured shape. This operation is per formed by the blacksmiths of the country, who, with no other implements than an earthen chaffing dish, a pair of bellows, and a large and small hammer, manufacture trinkets of sur prising neatness. These are ultimately formed with the small hammer, the gold being in a cold state. Large quan tities of gold dust are also found on the banks of the Barra, on the W. coast ; where, it is said, 10,000 slaves are employed, for two months every year, collecting it. The gold dust procured here is higher coloured, cleaner, and better than that found anywhere else. The principal part of it is con veyed into the interior, where it is manufactured into trinkets previously to being brought into market. Iron is found in Morocco, Abyssinia, Algeria, and in various mountainous districts of Central and S. Africa. Salt is also found in great abundance throughout the greater part of Africa, both as a residuum and as a fossil ; the former on the banks of salt lakes, the latter by mining. Though widely diffused, how ever, there are many large and extensive districts without it; and there it is considered a luxury, and brings high prices. Manganese is also common. An important discovery has recently been made, of extensive deposits of nitrates of potash and soda, in the neighbourhood of Angra Pequena, on the W. coast of S. Africa, which are likely to be turned to good account. Copper ore, of the richest description, is to be found at a short distance beyond the Orange river ; and lead, of a superior kind, has long been known to exist near the mouth of the Van Staaden s river, in the district of Uitenhage, Cape Colony. Climate. The great space which Africa occupies on the globe, extending to the 35th parallel on either side of the equator, added to other influencing causes, so diversifies its climate, that no general account could give a correct idea of it. Although the greater part of this continent lies within the torrid zone, and might be expected to possess a certain uni formity of climate corresponding to such a position, this is not the case. Extensive arid plains, swamps, marshes, and the exhalations of a rank vegetation, give it a fatal variety. The S. and N. extremities being beyond the tropics, and, of course, within the temperate zones, are sufficiently healthy, and so also is the E. coast generally, although, in some places, it is far otherwise. It is on the W. coast that the climate of Africa is most destructive to Europeans, and where the heat of the sun is most intense; Senegambia, between lat. 10 and 11 N. being, perhaps, the hottest place on the globe. The whole of the Gold Coast is also extremely unhealthy, owing, it has been alleged, to the sudden extremes of heat by day and cold by night, and to the thick, sulphureous exhala tions which rise from the valleys every morning, and diffuse themselves far over the surface of the land, spreading death and disease amongst the white population. In the midst of the most beautiful scenery, where trees, and rock?, and still waters, and a delightful verdure, give assurance of an earthly j-aradise, the angel of death lurks unseen, and strikes down his victims without warning, and while yet in the pride of their strength. The appalling number of deaths that have occurred in the various expeditions that have gone to the coasts and interior of W. Africa, bear fearful evidence of the fatal nature of the climate. Upwards of a third of all the Europeans who have endeavoured to ascend the Senegal river have perished in the attempt ; and nearly a half of those composing the expedition sent out by Government in 1816, to explore the river Zaire, shared a similar fate. On that occasion, the commander, Capt. Tuckey, his lieutenant, the purser, ten of the crew, and four scientific gentlemen, all died within three months ; and in the case of the Niger expedition in 1841, no fewer than 41 Europeans, out of 145, including several officers and sur geons, died in less than two months. On this expedition, numerous experiments were made to test both the air and the river water, for the purpose of ascertaining whether they con tained, as had by many been alleged that they must, an extra quantity of sulphuretted hydrogen gas, supposed to be the agent of death in these regions, and to be due to the quantity of decomposing vegetable matter abounding in the rivers ; but, though conducted with the greatest care, from none of the experiments did it appear that the gas in question existed in excess, either in the air or the water. In Sierra Leone, perhaps the most unhealthy spot in these unhealthy re gions, the mortality amongst Europeans is very great; few ships returning without losing some of their crew, and not unfrequently so many, that they are unable to leave the port until others have been obtained. The number of governors that have perished here from the effects of the cli mate, one after the other, is another striking evidence of the singular insalubrity of its atmosphere. The agent of death in nearly all these cases is fever, generally violent, and of the remittent type. Besides the known and alleged causes for this fatality, there are other and mysterious influences in operation ; for in the case of the expedition commanded by Capt. Tuckey, the journal of that lamented officer bore, that no climate could be finer than that they were enjoying; that the thermometer was never below 00 during the night, and seldom exceeding 76 during the day; no rain, and the sun seldom visible. The seasons of Africa consist but of two the dry and rainy; the latter including May, June, July, August, September, and October; the former, the remaining months. The wet season, gloomy and cheerless, is always ushered in and terminated by tornadoes. During its continu ance, the mountains are wrapt in perpetual fogs ; and disease, though not peculiar to any season, becomes more general and more fatak The tornadoes, however, which are always accom panied by tremendous storms of thunder and lightning, have a beneficial effect on the atmosphere, rendering it cool, clear, and invigorating. Sir James Alexander, speaking of the W. coast of N. Africa, says, that the mornings were beautiful from half-past five till eight; that, during that time, the atmosphere was cool, and the foliage and verdure around fresh and smiling ; but at the last hour named, the scene suddenly changed ; the sun burst forth with inconceivable fierceness, all sounds were hushed, and all nature drooped ; men retired into their huts or tents, and the w T ild animals sought the depth of the forest or the jungle. With us, a typification of silence is the still ness of midnight; in these regions, it is the stillness of mid-day. Along the Gold Coast, land and sea breezes prevail; the for mer generally from N.N.W., the latter S.W. and W. S.W. The land breeze continues from nine A.M. till seven P.M.; but in the rainy season is irregular. Though many of the countries of Africa are deluged by rains, there are vast tracts in which hardly any ever falls. These are the deserts; and this is sup posed to be one of the causes of the high temperature of this continent, which is much hotter than either Asia or America, although the heat is not generally so intense as to admit of its being considered the sole cause of disease. The range of the thermometer on the W. coast, in 1819, was at the highest i only 95, mean 76; while the average heat at Sierra Leone is only 82; at Cape Coast Castle, from 85 to 90. At the . Cape, it is never below 50. These places, therefore, are free from those vicissitudes, or extremes of heat and cold, I which are so fatal in other parts of Africa. The greatest ) height the thermometer was ever observed to attain at the Cape was 102; but the general range of the warm season is between 8U and 00. AFRICA 89 AFRICA Races of People. Our information on this interesting j branch of knowledge, like that on most other subjects con nected with Africa, is imperfect. Generallyspeaking, however, Africa, N. of the Senegal, and E. to Egypt, maybe said to be inhabited by Arab races, known to us as Moors, Berbers, Kabyles, &c. (See ALGIERS, BAKBARY, MOROCCO.) Egypt (which see), is inhabited by Copts; and Abyssinia and Soinauli by tribes described in the articles on these countries. The original inhabitants of Cape Colony were Hottentots, who are now, however, confined to the territory N. of the colony, washed by the Atlantic, and stretching N. to about lat. 24 S. They are of a yellowish colour, with high cheek bones, wide apart ; lower portion of the face narrow ; nose flat and broad ; eyes small, and distant from each other; hair not diffused over the head, but in separate tufts. General stature of the men, 4 ft. 6 inches ; women 4 ft. ; the latter distinguished by a large accumulation of fat over the glutei muscles. Their language is full of guttural sounds, many words being ended by n peculiar dick, disagreeable to the ear, and difficult to imitate. They are a mild and inoffensive race; but have yet made little progress towards civilization. Those living in the immediate vicinity of the Cape, have, of course, become subject to Eu ropean influence : but a few tribes in the interior still retain their independence, wearing the old sheep-skin dress, observ ing old customs, and living in dirty kraals, or huts, composed of mats stretched over a frame of sticks. They migrate from place to place, leading an indolent and wandering life, and living chiefly on the milk of their cattle. To the E. of Cape Colony, as far as lat. 20 S., the coast and how far inland is not known is inhabited by Kaffirs (see KAFFRARIA). Central Africa, from the Senegal S. to the country of the Hottentots and Kaffirs, and E. to the Indian Ocean, is wholly inhabited, in all probability, by negro races ; but too little is known of tliis vast district to enable us to speak with precision. The physical characteristics of the negro are well known skin and eyes black ; hair black and woolly ; forehead low ; cheek bones prominent ; nose broad, thick, and flat ; lips thick ; palms of the hands, and soles of the feet flat. In strength and stature, they are equal to Europeans. Various opinions are entertained of their intellectual capacity some claiming for them an equality in this respect with the whites; others denying them the ordinary intelligence of human beings. Without instituting comparisons, it may be safely asserted, that they possess capabilities of a much higher order than has been generally allowed them, the proof of which it would not be difficult to adduce. Though the natives of the extensive region marked out above are designated by the general term Negro, there are a great variety of nations, distinguished from each other by both moral and physical differences. The peculiarities of the various subdivisions of the Negro race will be noticed in the articles on the countries which they inhabit. Animals. With the zoology of Africa, we are yet but im perfectly acquainted ; enough, however, is known to form a very interesting chapter in natural history. Of the 300 different species of mammals that inhabit Africa, 242 are peculiar to the country. Of the Quadrumana (apes, monkeys, &c.), it possesses 55 species, of which 48 are peculiar. Of the Cheiroptera (bats), 30, of which 26 are peculiar. Of the Carnivora, 66; peculiar, 52. Kodentia (gnawing mammals), 48; peculiar, 38. Edentata (sloths, ant eaters, &c.), 3, all peculiar. Pachydermata (hog, horse, elephant, &c.), 15; peculiar, 12. Kuminantia, 73 ; peculiar, 63. Cetaceae (whales), 10; peculiar, 8. The quadrupeds of burden are, the camel (Arabian), and the horses and asses of Barbary. Of horned cattle there are many different varieties ; the oxen of Abys sinia and Bornou, both having horns of immense size the former 4 ft. in length, and the latter measuring upwards of 2 ft. in circumference at the base, but so light, that they hardly weigh 2 Ibs. each ; the broad-tailed sheep of Barbary, the Cape of Good Hope, and other parts of Africa; and the long-legged, small-tailed sheep of Egypt, Sennaar, and Nubia. Of goats there are a great abundance and variety, being in many places more numerous than sheep. The domestic cat is rare in Africa, but dogs are numerous. In the large towns of Egypt and Barbary, troops of these animals are maintained by the public, to act as scavengers, the duties of which they perform with entire efficiency. Domestic poultry are abund ant in every part of Africa, though not indigenous to the country. Amongst tho wild animals, is that extraordinary species of the ape called the Chimpanzee, or Simla troglodytes of naturalists. It attains the ordinary stature of man, and inhabits the countries from Sierra Leone to the S. confines of Angola. The baboons, among the inferior tribes of the Quadrumana, inhabit the mountains and rocky heights. They sometimes attain a great size, and, from their strength and mischievous disposition, are held in much dread by the natives. The monkeys, properly so called, inhabit the woods, and swarm over the whole continent. The carnivorous and ferocious animals of Africa are nu merous and formidable. At the head of these stands the lion, of which there are three varieties the Barbary, Senegal, and Cape lions. The fur of the first is of a deep yellowish brown, and the mane of the male much developed. The fur of the second is of a more yellow tint, mane less thick, and hair nearly wanting 011 breasts and inside of legs. Of the (Jape lion there are two kinds, one yellowish and the other brown ; the latter being considered the more ferocious and formidable. It is a belief amongst the S. African tribes, that the lion prefers human prey to any other. Next to the lion ranks the leopard and panther, there being no tigers in Africa. Though not generally dangerous, nor much dreaded, they are so numerous in some parts, that the natives will not venture to travel through the woods unless well armed, and in large parties. In other places, their increasing numbers have com pelled the inhabitants of many villages and towns to remove to other provinces. There are none of those marked differ ences between the leopards and panthers of Asia and Africa, that distinguish the lions of these two countries. The hyena is found in great numbers in S. Africa, especially in the neighbourhood of the Cape of Good Hope, and, it has been asserted, as high as Barbary. In the former region there are two species the spotted hyena, or tiger wolf, and the strand, or coast wolf the former being the more ferocious. The civet is found in most parts of Africa, and is kept in great numbers by the natives, on account of the perfume. Ichneumons are also numerous. Of the liodent mammals, our knowledge is very limited. So far as known, there are three varieties of hares ; common rabbits ; eight or ten distinct species of jerboas; squirrels, rats, and mice the two latter being as numerous as in other countries. Of the Edentatous mammals, there are two species found in Africa, the aardvark, or ground hog (Orycteropus Capensis), and the long-tailed pangolin (Plants tetradactijla}. In the first rank of the Pachydermata, or wild, tusked quadrupeds of Africa, stands the elephant, which, it has been said, though the point seems by no means established, attains a greater size here than in Asia. It seems more certain that the tusks of the African elephant are larger and heavier than those of Asia. The differences in physical structure between the Asiatic and African elephant, are the head of the latter more rounded ; front convex instead of con cave ; ears much larger ; and the general number of nails, on the hind foot, three, instead of four. The sagacity of the Asiatic elephant is said to surpass that of the African, but on no good authority. The intelligence of the race, generally, has been a good deal overrated. Cuvier is not disposed to estimate it higher than that of the dog. Elephants are dis persed all over Africa, S. of the Sahara. They live in herds of from 100 to 300, and are so numerous, that their tusks (ivory) form a principal, and one of the most valuable, exports of Africa. These are found in great numbers in the woods, broken off by accident ; but the greater portion is procured by destroying the animal, which is effected by the natives in various ways. The flesh is held in much esteem in various parts of Africa. The foot is said to be a delicacy. The rhinoceros is found in the middle and S. parts of Africa, frequenting the same haunts as the elephant. The natives hunt this animal with great eagerness for the sake of the hide and horns the only parts of which any use can be made, the flesh being unpleasant to the taste, having a resemblance to pork, but being much coarser. Of the hides, shields, harness, &c., are made; the horn derives its value from its real or supposed medicinal virtues. The African rhinoceros is distinguished from the Asiatic by having no front or incisor teeth. Hippo potami are found in great numbers in the large rivers and lakes of Africa ; amongst the former, particularly the Senegal, Gambia, Niger, and Zaire or Congo. It is peculiar to Africa, and is divided into two species the hippopotamus AFRICA Hi AFRICA of the Cape (77. Caixnsis) T and the hippopotamus of the Senegal (//. Setiegalensia). The distinction between these two species, however, is not very marked, consisting merely of some differ ences in the formation of the skull. The natives take them in traps or pits, but the colonists near the Cape destroy them with the rifle. The flesh is much esteemed as an article of food ; the Sea Cow s Speck, the name given to the fat which lies imme diately under the skin, when salted and dried, is in great de mand with the epicures of Cape Town. The most valuable part of the animal, however, is its great canine teeth, which consist of the finest ivory, and is in much request by dentists, for mak ing artificial teeth, no other ivory keeping its colour so well. The engallo, or wild boar, is also found in Africa ; but it differs from that of Europe, its molar teeth resembling, in form and structure, those of the elephant. The zebra and quagga are found all over S. and Central Africa. The sym metry, and brilliant colouring of these animals, added to the extraordinary regularity of the stripes with which they are adorned, rank them amongst the most beautiful of quadrupeds. The quagga is less than the zebra, with the binder parts higher, and the ears shorter. Both the zebra and quagga are found in greatest numbers near the Cape, but the former seems to be more widely dispersed than the latter. A third species, between the S. African quagga and the zebra, is found in large herds N. of the Orange River. The antelope is the most numerous of the ruminating animals of Africa, there being no fewer than 50 species proper to Africa, 23 of which are found within the colony of the Cape. The giraffe, or camelopard, inhabits the interior parts of Africa, as high as the Senegal, but is not found in Guinea, or any of the W. parts. In the interior of Africa, several species of wild buffalo are met with ; but little is known regarding them, further than that they are large aud fierce, particularly those near the Cape of Good Hope. Among the cetaceous mammals that inhabit the seas and coasts of Africa, the most remarkable is that species of whale called lamantin (Manatus Senegalensis), an herbivorous ani mal, supposed to be the original of the fabulous mermaid. The rivers and coasts of Africa abound with various kinds of fish, some of the most splendid colours. Shell fish are also abundant. Of the ornithology of Africa, little more is known than that it comprehends a great number of birds, of the richest and gaudiest plumage. Amongst the most beautiful of these is the sun bird (Cinnyrlda;}. The ostrich is now almost ex clusively confined to Africa. Its flesh, when young, is good, and the eggs are considered a delicacy both by Europeans and natives. The Hottentots abstract the eggs from the nest with a long stick, that the hen may not be driven from it, but con tinue to lay. The plumes are much in request in Europe for ladies head dresses, and are therefore an important article of commerce. The best, however, are not taken from the wild birds, but from domesticated individuals, reared by the Arabs, who provide them with clean and soft beds, in order to preserve the feathers from injury. Vultures are found amongst the lofty mountains of Central Africa, and in the most inaccessible places towards the Red Sea. They are also found in the N. of Africa, and in the Cape colony. The two principal species of African vultures are the Viil- tur Kolbi (Kolbe s vulture), and the V. auricularis, or soci able vulture, the Oricou of the French. The latter, which is of gigantic size, is extremely useful in consuming the carcasses of dead animals, which might otherwise pollute the air, and engender disease. It prevails most in the Namaqua country, where it was first observed by Le Vaillant. It is gregarious, living together in numerous companies. The Guinea hen is the only gallinaceous fowl adapted to the poultry yard that Africa possesses. The crocodile inhabits all the large rivers in the tropical countries of Africa, and abounds in the Nile, below the first cataract, never being seen above it. Lizards, serpents, and various species of voracious reptiles, abound in all parts of places, their habitations, seen from a short distance, present Africa. Amongst the insect tribes, of which there are merely a few salient point s can be noticed. many thousands, the locusts are the most remarkable, having been, from time immemorial, the scourge of the country. Hardly less formidable or destructive are the ants, which awarm in countless myriads in tropical Africa ; in many Religion, Mahometanism and Fctichism (the latter from the Portuguese word fctisso something sacred) are the pre vailing religions of Africa, excepting in Abyssinia, where a debased sort of Christianity exists. A fetiche may be any the appearance of a native village. They move in vast armies, consuming every animal and vegetable substance that conies ; in their way. Vegetable Productions. The greater portion of Africa lying between the tropics, its vegetation is, of course, modi fied by that circumstance. With exception of its S. extremity, it may be said to be wholly a palm region, one species or other of that useful plant being met with throughout nearly its whole extent, as far as yet explored. The N. of Africa, along the Mediterranean, presents a vegetation similar to that of many parts of the S. of Europe, but much more luxuriant. Wheat and maize are here cultivated; the olive, the orange, the castor-oil plant, the fig tree, and the dwarf and the date palms, are plentiful ; and the Zizyphus lotus, or lote bush, is so abundant, that its fruit which is still partially eaten con stituted formerly an important article of food to some ancient tribes, from which they were named, by the Greeks, Loto- pliagi lotus eaters. South of the Atlas mountains lies a tract, called the Land of Dates, from the great profusion in which the Phcmix dactylifera, or date palm, is diffused over its surface. Rice, maize, plantains, yams, manioc, pulse, and earth nuts (A rachis hypoyea) , are cultivated along the whole W. tropical coast. In Senegambia, Adanson first discovered the enormous Baobab tree a plant also common in Nubia, and found as far S. as Lake Ngami whose stem is sometimes 30 ft. in diameter, though not more than 10 or 15 ft. high, but having a very large, bushy head ; and whose fruit, under the name of monkey s bread, forms an important article of native food. In the same region flourishes the acacia, from which gum Senegal is obtained. Along the W. coast, like wise, but in greatest abundance on the Guinea coast, are found the Elrcis Guineensis, from which palm oil and wine are obtained ; the cabbage palm, the wax palm, the Shea butter tree, all yielding products important to man. To these may be added the African oak, and that plant characteristic of river mouths, the mangrove. Of fruits, the best are the ban ana, papaw, custard apple, lemon, orange, and tamarind. At the Cape of Good Hope, wheat and other cereals are cultivated ; but the most characteristic vegetation of this district is the heaths, which grow in wonderful profusion, in great variety, and of surpassing beauty. Geraniums, and various bulbous and orchidaceous plants, are also prevalent, rendering this district a complete flower garden. The E. coast may, gener ally speaking, be said to be characterized by the same veget ation as the W. Here, however, the cultivation of rice is more general ; that of maize, less. Tamarinds, figs, and plan tains, grow on this coast; and the cotton plant is found in great abundance. The N.E. part of Africa, in vicinity of Ras Jerdaffoon, is rich in frankincense, myrrh, cinnamon, and numerous other spices. The highlands of Ethiopia are the native place of the coffee plant, which gives its name to the province of Kaffa. In many tropical localities, but more especially along the E. coast, this plant forms thick woods. Towards the end of the 15th century, it was introduced from Africa into Arabia. Abyssinia, though within the tropics, can scarcely be said to possess a tropical vegetation. The country, generally, is so much raised above the level of the sea, that its characteristic plants are more those of the temperate than of the torrid zone ; part of it, however, is included in the spice region. Nubia, though further from the equator than Abyssinia, as it lies on a lower level, possesses a vegetation much more tropical. The Baobab, Elreis Guineensis, or palm- oil tree, and Bombax pentandrum, or Indian cotton, are among its more prominent plants. Egypt has long been celebrated for its wheat, which is there extensively grown ; rice, beans, peas, sesamum, and cotton, are also cultivated. Senna and other cassias are found in Upper Egypt, and form a consider able article of commerce. The dwarf and the date palm arc plentiful; and the doum palm (Cud/era Tkela ica}, is not un common. Further information respecting the vegetation of Africa will be given in the articles on its various countries. What has been said here is merely intended as a rapid sketch very extensive subject, of which, within our limits, AFRICA :L AFRICA ?ort of substance a stick, a stone, a horn, or any other casual object which, being chosen by an individual, is set apart, invested with a supernatural influence, and worshipped as a divinity. It is from that moment believed to be endowed with a power of doing good or evil, and is feared and courted accordingly. Several of the African nations have a supreme fetiche, some having a serpent, others a cock, others a lizard, and other animals, besides those presiding over the destinies of families and individuals. At Cape Coast, the public/eic/ie is a rock that projects into the sea, close by the castle. Sacri fices are yearly made to this rock by the priests, with extra ordinary gestures and invocations. Others of the negro tribes worship the sun, the moon, the stars; and others, idols of human form. Human sacrifices are common amongst these nations, although, it is said, only on the occasion of the acces sion of a sovereign, or during the prevalence of an epidemic. The victim, on these occasions, must be brought from a dis tance, and his fate carefully concealed from him till the fatal blow is struck, which it is, in the presence of the assembled people and great men of the nation. Languages, Social Condition, &c. The languages of Africa are far too numerous to admit of any attempt being made even to enumerate them. The most widely diffused are the Arabic, the Berber, and the Mandingoe languages the last prevailing over nearly the whole W. coast, and the former two over all the N. and N.E. parts of the continent. In S. Africa, the Hottentot and Kaffir languages are those best known. The number of languages spoken throughout Africa has been estimated at upwards of 150 of which 33, it is said, are spoken between the W. Ocean and Red Sea. As each of the various countries of Africa presents a peculiar social phasis of its own, and as these, with numerous other details, will fall naturally to be noticed in the respective articles on these several countries, we shall here confine our selves to W. Africa alone; that is, from about lat. 17 S. to lat. 17 N. one of the most interesting portions of that con tinent. The social condition, generally, of this part of Africa, is, as might be expected, extremely low; yet, important facilities for improving this condition, and for the successful introduction of civilization are not wanting. The black population are naturally of a kind, cheerful, and humane dis position ; and where these may not exist, as in the case of a few tribes, there is an intelligence and general aptness, which would readily appreciate and appropriate the advan tages of civilized life. The African black has none of the moody, ferocious temper of the savages of the Pacific and South Sea Islands, nor any of the proud reserve and ruthless nature of the American Indian; while his love of music and song prove him to have feelings and tendencies eminently favourable to social refinement. M Queen describes the char acter of the population about Cape Lachen as excellent ; and adds, that they exhibit traits of feeling and paternal affection that would do honour to a civilized people. Of the popula tion in the neighbourhood of Cape Palmas, he speaks in equally favourable terms, calling them a docile and peaceable race. Lieut. Christopher s account of the native population on the E. coast, is no less pleasing. He found them, he says, a hospitable, cheerful, and happy people, living in the midst of plenty. Amongst the Fellatahs, who are, perhaps, one of the most advanced of the different nations of W. Africa, there exist many of the usages and customs of civilized life. It is matter of regret, that there should be exceptions to this general good character of the African tribes ; but so it is, there being several nations remarkable for their savageness and barbarity. Amongst these, the Ashantees stand con spicuous, proving and it is no solitary instance the singular fact, that the cleverest and most intelligent races of Africa are the most cruel and ferocious. There seems little doubt either, that cannibalism prevailed, and probably still prevails, to a considerable extent, amongst some of the tribes of W. Africa. In the industrial arts, the W. Africans have made little progress, although some of the tribes, particularly the Ashantees, Jalloffs, Dahomans, and Koorankoes, evince con siderable skill in working in metals, in tanning leather, and in the manufacture of cotton cloths; although, in this last, few of them being acquainted with the shuttle, they will take a couple of months to work what a European would despatch in as many hours. In all matters connected with agriculture, they arc also miserably backward. There is, as usual, some VOL. I. of the ludicrous, as well as the serious, to be found engendered of the moral darkness and low social condition of Africa. The most curious instance of this is presented in the form of a mysterious personage, called Mumbo Jumbo, whose business it is to punish refractory ladies, on whom the scoldings and castigations of their husbands have failed in having the desired effect. In such cases, Mumbo Jumbo arrays himself in a fantastic coat, which always hangs ready for his use on some convenient tree, in or near the village ; puts a crown of straw on his head; and, after dark, marches into the market place, where he summons the offending fair one into his presence. Mumbo s power being absolute, she dares not disobey, but presently makes her appearance, with a crowd at h er heels. She is now stripped, and Mumbo Jumbo commences a vigorous flagellation, encouraged by the applause of the surrounding mob. He is thus held in great dread by the African ladies, who will yield much rather than expose themselves to a call to appear in his presence. Mumbo Jumbo is no other than the husband of the fair culprit dressed for the occasion, or some friend deputed by him to perform this piece of conjugal duty. Commerce and Slave Trade. The commerce of W. Africa bears no proportion to its extent ; the chief reason for which is to be found in the barbarous state of its inhabitants, and, in part, in the unhealthiness of its climate, which prevents Europeans developing its utmost capabilities and resources. Its principal articles of export are palm oil, gold, gold dust, ivory, gums, timber, wax, hides, feathers, &c. The gum Senegal is exported in large quantities by the Moorish tribes, who possess the gum forests of the Sahara. They collect it in December, and pack it into sacks made of tanned ox hides. The annual produce of these forests amount to 1,200,000 Ibs. The Moors take blue Indian calicoes in exchange for their gum. During their absence on their trading expeditions, they live on the gum, consuming about six ounces every 24 hours. Those who can afford it, dissolve it in milk ; those who cannot, use it as it is, or dissolve it in water. Gold and gold dust, the former fashioned into trinkets form a con siderable branch of African trade. The native dealers in gold carry a pair of small scales about with them, in which they weigh the precious metal, making no difference in price between the wrought gold and the gold dust. Salt is another important article of internal trade. The demand for this necessary of life is very great, and the price proportionately high. A slab of salt, 2J ft. long, 14 inches in breadth, and 2 inches thick, will often bring a price equal to 2, 10s., while 1, 15s. to 2 is the usual value of a piece of these dimensions. The slave trade forms a conspicuous feature in African commerce, and continues to do so, notwithstanding the efforts that have been made to put it down. It has been calcu lated that about 110,000 slaves are yearly exported from the S. parts of the W. coast, besides those shipped at other places. Cuba and Brazil are great marts for slaves ; the trade being encouraged in the former by the Spanish authorities, who derive a profit from their importation, the captain-general receiving an ounce of gold for every negro landed on the island, and the inferior officers proportionate allowances. Besides the external trade, a very extensive internal trade in slaves is carried on in Africa, and marts are established for their disposal. They are moved from place to place, in caravans of from 100 to 3000, of all ages, but chiefly boys and girls. Slavery in W. Africa, however, exhibits a much milder character than in any other part of the world. The slave is there treated with consideration and kindness, and rarely subjected to corporal punishment. Amongst the Fel latahs, the children of slaves are never sold ; so that no separ ation between parent and child ever takes place. Slaves, on falling into the hands of the trader, are well treated, and, in being marched from place to place, are unfettered, well fed, and carefully tended ; and, though surrounded by guards on horseback, armed with whips, are rarely, if ever, touched with the thong. The cowrie, a small shell imported from the Maldive Islands by British traders, is the principal circulating medium of S. and Interior Africa ; but of so low a value is it, that it requires between 4000 and 5000 to make the equivalent of 1 sterling. Amongst the exports to W. Africa in 1842, there were haberdashery, &c., between 12,000 and 13,000 ; brass and copper manufactures, 13,850; cotton manufactures, 220,564 ; books, 362 ; arms and ammunition, 96,0001 AFRICA AGADAS Progress of Discovery. There seems reason to believe that the circumnavigation of Africa had been accomplished by tho Pheniciaus long prior to the earliest historical records. It is, at any rate, certain that an idea of its peninsular form was familiar in the days of Herodotus an evidence that the fact had been ascertained, notwithstanding it is uncertain by whom; although this merit has been ascribed to Necho, king of Egypt, who, according to the historian just named, fitted out an expedition for that purpose. Sataspes, a Persian noble man, was the next who made the attempt. He sailed from the W., and proceeded S. along tho W. coast for several months, but was obliged finally to abandon the enter prise as impracticable. Sataspes was succeeded in African adventure by Eudoxus, a native of Cyzicus, who made several attempts to explore the unknown regions of that continent ; but the results of his efforts have not been handed down to us, and, it may be suspected, were not very satisfactory. An expedition to the W. shores of Africa Avas fitted out by the Carthaginians, about 570 years B.C., with the view of establishing colonies at such points as might be found suitable for such purpose. Thirty thousand persons, of both sexes, were embarked on this occasion, on board of 60 ships, of 50 rowers each, and several colonies established; but the entire history of this expedition is so brief and indistinct, that no clear idea of either its progress or results can be obtained. At a later period, the liomans made some equally unsatisfac tory efforts to explore the unknown coasts of Africa, Poly- bius, the celebrated historian, having been sent thither by Scipio, on a voyage of discovery. It is not, indeed, until his tory brings us to the expeditions of the Portuguese, those once famous and enterprising navigators, that the progress of African discovery becomes interesting, and from this point it will be found indicated in the following table the form, it is believed, best adapted for giving at once a clear and rapid view of the subject. It must be premised, however, that the list contains but a selection from the better known travellers in Africa, there being a host of others; some of them, pro bably, of equal desert, whose names have been omitted, as it has not been intended to attempt more than a mere outline of the progress of discovery in that continent. Influenced by a similar motive, we have refrained from detailing the extensive researches of the French in Algeria an omission, however, which will be found supplied, to some extent, in the article under that name : A.D. 1412 A Portuguese expedition reached Cape Bojador, but did not land. 1-433 The Portuguese doubled Cane Bojador. 1487 The Cape of Good Hope discovered by Bartholomew Diaz, a Portuguese navigator. 1490 Covilham, a Portuguese, visited E. Africa and Abyssinia. 1497 Vasco de Gaina doubled the Cape of Good Hope. 1520 Alvarez, a Portuguese, visited Amhara, Shoa, aud Efat. 1588 Queen Elizabeth granted a patent to some merchants of Exeter, to carry on the trade of the Senegal and Gambia. 1618 An African Company formed in London sent out an expedi tion, which ascended the Gambia as far as Tenda. 1618 Paez, a Portuguese, visited the sources of the Bahr-el-Azrek. 1620 Capt. Jobson ascended the Gambia to the same height, namely, to Tenda. 1650 The Dutch formed a colony at the Cape of Good Hope. 1G97-8 ...Sieur Brue, a Frenchman, performed several voyages up the Senegal. 1714 M. Companion traversed the kingdom of Bambouk. 1722 Shaw travelled through Numidia and N. Egypt, &c. 1748-53. ..Adanson travelled on the Senegal. 1761 Cant. Henri Hop, a Dutchman, traversed the country of the Namaquas. 1765-6 ...Bruce travelled through various parts of Barbary. 1769-70... Bruce travelled through Abyssinia. 1775-85. ..Sparman and Vailknt travelled through various parts of S. Africa. 1795 Park traced the course of the Niger. 1793-6 ...Browne travelled in Central Africa, visiting Darfoor and Bornpu. 1797 Barrow penetrated as far as the Snow Mountains in S. Africa. In the same, and during several subsequent years, llomeman travelled in various parts of N. Africa, and in Fezzan. 1801 Trutter and Somerville penetrated to Lattakoo, the capital of the Bomuanas, and were followed in the same track some years afterwards by Lichtenstein, Burchell, and Campbell the missionary. 1802 Salt travelled iti Egypt and Abyssinia 1805 Park again attempted to trace the Niger, but never returned, having been killed, with nearly all liis attendants, by the natives. 1812-3-4 Burckhardt travelled in Egypt and Nubia, visiting the latter twice. lt>15 Bclzoni visited Egypt, and made numerous interesting dis coveries regarding Kgvptimi sirrbitrrlunil antiquities. 1817 M. Molien made a journey to the Senegal and Gambia. 1822 Denham, Ouduey, and Clapperton, crossed the Sahara, and explored the S. and W. shores of Lake Tchad, and travelled through Bornou and the Fcllatah country. 1826 Major Laiug penetrated to Timbuctoo. " Murdered on hi* return by nis guide. 1830 Lander explored the Niger, and proved that the numerous embouchures in the Gulf of Benin are the delta of the Niger. Gobat penetrated to Condor in Abyssinia. 1831 lliippell made two journeys in Abyssinia. 1639 Iseuberg and Krapf travelled in Egypt smd Abyssinia. 1840-3 ...Dr. Beke travelled through various parts of Abyssinia. 1841 Trotter and Allen survey the Niger, and other parts of the W. coast. 1842-3 ...Sir W. C. Harris travelled in Abyssinia on his mission to Shoa. 1843-4 ...RalFencl travelled up the Senegal, and explored part of the 1 aleme. 1843-4-5...M. Rochet d Hericourt travelled in Adel and Shoa. 1844 Duncan penetrated into the interior of Africa, from Whydali in the Bight of Benin, to lat. 13" 6 N.; Ion. 1 3 E. 1845-6 ...Richardson traversed a great part of the desert Sahara. The Rev. Mr. Rebbman discovered a lofty mountain covered with perpetual snow, in E. Africa, about 385 m. "VV. from Mombaz. 1819 The Rev. Robert Livingstone discovers a large lake called Ngami, in S. Africa. Settlements. The principal settlements of the British in Africa are Sierra Leone, Cape Coast Castle, and the Cape of Good Hope ; with several unimportant establishments on the Gold and Slave Coasts. The possessions of the Dutch are Elmina. and Axim, on the Gold Coast; the former, 9 m. W. of Cape Coast Castle, is a well-built fort, garrisoned by 100 men. The Danes have also a few inconsiderable ports on the Gold and Slave Coasts, the chief of which is Chris- tiansborg, the residence of the governor-general. The Portu guese have several possessions on both the W. and E. coasts; and the French on the Senegal, and Gambia. To these has to be added the Native Republic of Liberia, near Cape Mesurado, founded by the American Colonization Society, for the recep tion of free negroes from the United States. Population. There being no means of ascertaining the population of Africa with any approach to certainty, we mutt be content to take the guesses of the most creditable authori ties on the point. Balbi estimates it at 60,000,000 ; Malte Brun, at 70,000,000, and the Weimar Almanac, at 101, 000,000. (Harris s Highlands of Ethiopia; Martin s Colonial Library ; M Queen s Geo. Survey of Africa ; Capt. Tuckey s Expedition to the Itiver Zaire ; Capt. Alexander s Colonies of Western Africa; Stedman s Wanderings and Adventures in the Interior of Southern Africa; Lieut. Christopher, On tJie East Coast of Africa; Athenaium; Foreign Quarterly lieview ; Burek hardt, Ledyard, Belzoni, Pearce, Bruce, Harris, Duncan ; Allen s Niger Expedition; Johnston s Physical Atlas.} AFKICAN ISLANDS, two islands in the Indian Ocean, between Ainirante and Seychelle Islands, N. Madagascar ; the most northerly is in lat. 4 55 S. ; Ion. 53 30 E. (R.) They are connected by a sand bank, and are so low, that they are almost overflowed at high spring tides. They are destitute of fresh water, but abound with turtle and aquatic birds. They were discovered by a French vessel in 1795. AFSHAKS, one of the wandering tribes of Persia, of foreign descent, of which description of people one-fourth of the population of that country consists, forming distinct classes, apart from the original Persians, by their habits and modes of subsisting. The Afshars, who call themselves originally of the Turkoman tribes, are divided into two principal branches, Shauilu and Kirklu. They are a numerous tribe, counting altogether about 20,000 houses. They principally reside in towns, and are to be found in greatest numbers at Abiverd and Kelat. AFVESTADT, or AVESTA, a tn. Sweden, district Ves- teras, on the right bank of the Dal, and about 60 m. from its embouchure, in the Gulf of Bothnia, 55 m. W.N.W. Upsala; lat. 60 7 N.; Ion. 16 9 E. There are here extensive iron and copper works, the produce of the mines in the vicinity being manufactured here for exportation. Pop. 800. AFZULGHUR, a tn. Hindoostan, prov. Delhi, presidency of Bengal, near the Kumaon mountains; lat. 29 25 N. ; lou. 78 40 E. AGABLY, a tn., N.W. Africa, oasis of Guat, desert of Sahara; lat. 26 32 N. ; Ion. 52 E. Caravan routes from Morocco and Tripoli meet here, and afterwards diverge to Senegambia and Timbuctoo ; from the latter of which Agably is distant S.S.W. about 700 m. AGADAS. See AODASS. AGADEZ AGGERSIIUUS AGADEZ, a tn., N. Africa, Sahara, kingdom of Air or Asben, about 800 m. S.S.W. Mourzouk; lal. 16 30 N; Ion. 7 30 E. It is situated on a hamada or table-land, is about 3 m. in circuit ; and has almost a ruined appearance, consisting of about 700 houses, built of mud, occasionally white- washed, and flat-roofed. A tower 90 ft. to 95 ft. high is the principal defence. The manufactures, of limited extent, consist of mats and leather work, particularly sandals, and the saddles used in riding the mdheris or swift camels ; the trade is chiefly in millet, which is almost the only food. The inhabitants, now only about 8000, though they formerlynumbered from 50,000 to 60,000, speak a peculiar language called Emghedesie, which is also spoken at Timbuctoo, and have five or six schools, in which the boys are taught to read the Koran and to write. (Richardson, Barth, &c., Exped. to Central Africa.} AGADIK, AGADEKR, or SANTA CRUZ, u seaport tn. Morocco, prov. Suse, 18 m. S. Cape de Geer or Ghir; lat. 30 26 N. ; Ion. 9 32 W. (R.) ; on the summit of a hill 600 ft. in height, and surrounded by dilapidated walls; once an im portant place, but now in a state of decay. Half way down the hill on which the town stands, and between it and the sea, there is a battery, which was intended to command the anchor age, and to protect a spring of water near the beach ; but it is now likewise in ruins. The Bay of Agadir is one of the best roadsteads on the coast of Morocco, having a moderate depth of water, and being completely sheltered from the strong N.E. winds, although exposed to those from the W. It abounds with fish of various kinds, of which great numbers are caught, dried, and sent to Mogador and the interior, and now form ! the sole article of trade in this once flourishing place. Pro- 1 visions are good and plentiful, and water easily procured. Pop. about 300. AGALEGAS, or GALEGA, a small isl. Indian Ocean, | about 485 m. N W. the N. extremity of Madagascar. The N. end of the island is in lat. 10 21 30" S. ; Ion. 56 38 E. (R.) It is 11 m. in length, and little more than 1 m. in breadth; all low land, with a gap in the middle, where the sea breaks through on high tides, giving it the appearance of two islands when seen from a distance. It produces maize, wheat, &c. AGAME, a prov. Tigre, in Abyssinia, in the N.E. part of that territory, and W. from the great salt plain in which the country terminates N.E. The ground is high, but fertile and well cultivated, and the air cool and salubrious. The prin cipal towns of the province are Genater and Seraxo. AGANA (SAN IGNACIO DE), a tn. Guahan, or Guaham, the largest, and one of the most southern, of the Ladrone or Marianne Islands, on the W. coast, 12 m. N.E. harbour of Apra; lat. 13 30 N.; Ion. 144 58 E.; situated in a fertile district, at the base of a range of low hills. It is the principal town of the island, and is the residence of the governor of the Archipelago. It is well fortified, and is surrounded with beautiful gardens. The streets are regular ; the houses chiefly of wood, erected on posts, and standing about 3 ft. clear of tho ground, roofed with tile and palm leaves. Agana was built by the Spaniards, when they founded the colony, about the middle of the 17th century. Pop. 3118. AGATA DE GOTI (SANTA), a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, district of Caserta, and 15 m. E. Capua. It has a cathedral, seven parish churches, and an abbey, and \3 the chief place of one of the dioceses forming the archbishopric of Santa Agata and Acerra. Pop. 5500. There are several other towns and villages of the same name in Naples, the principal of which are Agata Santa, prov. Capitanata, district of, and 7 m. S.E. from Bovino. Pop. 4648. Another, in the prov. Terra di Lavoro, district Gaeta, built on the ruins of the ancient Minturncz of the Romans. SANTA AGATA VEC- OHIA, prov. Calabria Ultra I., 3 m. S.E. Reggio. Pop. 1200. SANTA AGATA-NUOVA, at a short distance from the latter, has a cotton manufactory, and a pop. of 608. AGATHO, or AGATON. See GATO. AGATTOO, or AGATTA, a small isl. of the Aleutian group, whose centre is in lat. 52 43 N. ; Ion. 173 37 W. (R.) It is covered with low hills, and is thinly peopled. AGDASS, a tn. interior of N.W. Africa, near the S.E. border of the Sahara, and N. confines of Soodan; lat. 16 N.; Ion. 8 22 E. ; on the route from Tripoli and Fezzan to the town of Kashna, in the country of Houssa, from which it is about 210m. distant, nearly due N. Agdass is about 390 m. W.N.W. Lake Tchad AGDE [anc. Afjailia}, a maritime city, France, dep. Herault, about 12 m. S.E. Beziers, on the left bank of the Herault, here crossed by a suspension bridge, and 2 m. from its embouchure, in the Gulf of Lyons; lat. (harbour) 43 16 42" N. : Ion. 3 26 42" E. (R.) Asrde is sometimes locally called Ville Noire, from the black volcanic basalt of which it is built. It is a military place of the fourth class, and has a tribunal of commerce, an exchange, and a cathedral ; the latter a remarkable structure, of great antiquity, in the Gothic style, built of black basalt, with a strong square tower, 11.4 ft. high, which forms a useful landmark to mariners. The town is separated from its suburb by the river, on which there is a small port, capable of accommodating about 450 vessels, of from 60 to 200 tons burden. Most of the smaller vessels are engaged in fishing, supplying the whole depart ment, and part of that of Garde, with fresh fish. Being advantageously situated, it carries on an active coasting trade, there being about 120 vessels, of from 1 00 to 300 tons burden, belonging to the port. It has manufactories of verdigris and soap, shipbuilding, and distilleries ; exports large quantities of com and flour, and imports olive oil, dried fruits, woollen goods, leather, and perfumery, and soap from Marseilles, with which port it has a regular communication by steamers. Pop. in 1.846, 8884. AGEN [Latin, Aginnum, Agennum], an ancient tn. France, cap. dep. Lot-et-Garonne, 74 m. S.E. Bordeaux, on the right bank of the Garonne; crossed here by a beautiful stone bridge of 1 1 arches, and also by a suspension bridge, between which and the town is the fine promenade called Lea Graviers. The town itself is a place of little interest, being in general ill built, with old, narrow, and dirty streets; and the exhalations from the marshes of Brais render the air somewhat insalubrious. Among the public buildings are, the old church of St. Caprais, the hospital of St. James, and the prefecture, originally the Episcopal palace, which is a hand some edifice. The site of the cathedral of St. Etienne, destroyed at the Revolution, is now a cattle market. Agen forms the entrepot of the commerce between Bordeaux and Toulouse. It is the seat of a bishopric, suffragan to Bordeaux, and of a Cour Royale for the departments of Lot, Lot-et- Garonne, and Gers. It has a college, and several literary and scholastic institutions, and a public library, with more than 15,000 volumes; also, a theatre, and a house of correc tion. An extensive sailcloth factory is carried on here, for the supply of the French navy. There are also manufactures of serge, printed cloths, cottons, camlets, pottery, candles, and soap; and some brandy distilleries, and tanneries. Its scarlet and deep red dyes are much esteemed; and the celebrated prunes d Agen, from the plum orchards in the neighbourhood, form an article of export to the value of 24,000 annually. Large flocks of geese are reared in the vicinity, and fattened on maize. In ancient times, Agen was the capital of the Nitiobriges, a people of Gaul ; afterwards, a pretorian city, under the Roman emperors. Pop. in 1846, 15,517. (Guibert, Die. Geo. et Slat. ; French Official Papers.} AGENOIS, an anc. district, France, in Guienne. It constituted part of the old kingdom of Aquitaine, and is now comprised in the department of Lot-et-Garoune. AGER, a tn. Spain, Catalonia, prov. of, and 25 in. .N.M.E. from Lerida, in a valley. It is encompassed by walls and fortifications, in a good state of preservation ; but its streets are crooked, dirty, and unpaved. It contains a square, capa cious townhall, an endowed school, and two churches. The inhabitants are engaged in agriculture, olives being the prin cipal article of produce; and in breeding sheep, goats, and pigs, all of which animals, but the last in greatest numbers, are sold at the annual fair held in December. Pop. 2200. AGEROLA, a small tn. Naples, prov. Principato Citra, district of, and 11 in. S.W. from Salerno. It stands on a hill, and enjoys a salubrious climate. Pop. 3470. AGGEESHUUS, AGGERHUUS, or CHRISTIANIA, the most populous and most important of the five administrative pro vinces into which Norway is divided, and co-extensive with the diocese of the same name. It lies between lat. 58 56 and 62 58 N., and is bounded, E. by Sweden, S. by the Skager Rack, S.W. by prov. Christiansand, W. by Bergen, and N. by Drontheim, or Trondhjem; area, 10,911 sq. m. Pop. in 1845, 567,833. It is a mountainous romantic country, and, like other parts of Norway, the uncultivated portion bears AGGERSOE ii AQLY a large proportion to that under tillage. The soil in the small valleys is tolerably fertile, and yields grain, though not in sufficient quantity for home consutnpt. Cattle and horse rearing are extensively and successfully carried on. The mountains yield an unlimited supply of fine timber ; and iron, copper, and silver, are wrought. The province is watered by the rivers Drammen, Gloinmen, Louven, Lougen, Klara, Nid, &c., and of the numerous lakes that diversify its sur face, the most noted are the Mibsen, Fa mund, and Tyri. It is divided into six bailiwicks, Aggerhuus, Smaalelmen, Buskerud, Jarlsberg and Laurvig, Christian and Hcde- marken. The principal towns are Christiania, the capital of the province and of the country, Drammen, Kongsberg, Laurvig, and Tonsberg. The bail, of Aggershuus, in winch is the cap. Christiania, has an area of about 717 sq. rn., and a pop. of 83,755. AGQEKHUUS is also the name of an ancient fortress, forming the citadel of the capital. (Capt. Roosen I M Bulletin tie, la Soc. Geo. ; Forsell, Statistik von Scliweden.} AGGERSOE, a small isl. Denmark, S.W. coast of See- land, from which it is distant about 3 m. ; lat. 55 15 N. ; Ion. 11 10 E. It is about 5 m. long, and 1 or 1 broad. At the S. extremity of the island is a lantern, elevated to a height of 24 ft. above the level of the sea, as a substitute for a lighthouse. AGHA, or AUGHA, a par. Ireland, co. Carlow; area, 4184 ac. ; on the river Barrow. Pop. in 1841, 1197. AGHABOE, a par. Ireland, Queen s co.; 18,702 ac.; abounds in excellent limestone. Pop. in 1841, 6310. AGHABOG, a par. Ireland, co. Monaghan; 11,543 ac.; contains several small lakes ; people miserably poor. Pop. in 1841. 7530. AGHABOLOGUE, a par. Ireland, co. Cork; 18,733 ac. ; a sacred well and stone, in the churchyard, the latter called St. Olan s Cap. Pop. in 1841, 6001. AGHACREW, a par. Ireland, co. Tipperary; 1231 ac. Pop. in 1841, 409. AGHACROSS, a par. Ireland, co. Cork; 355 ac.; two annual fairs. Pop. in 1841 , 104. AGHADA, a par. Ireland, ro. Cork; 2459 ac.; on the E. shore of Cork harbour. Pop. in 1841, 2835. AGHADE, a par. Ireland, co. Carlow; 1698ac. Pop. in 1841, 521. AGHADERG, a par. Ireland, co. Down; 13,920 ac. Pop. in 1841, 9240. AGHADOE, a par. Ireland, co. Kerry. It was anciently a bishopric ; but, being merged in that of Ardfert, is now an nexed with it to the see of Limerick. The ruins of its cathedral are still extant ; and near them are those of an ancient round tower, called The Pulpit, by the peasantry, and a round castle, called The Bishop s Chair. In 1231, there was an abbey here, in which the son of the O Donoghue, its founder, was buried. The village of Aghadoe is distant about 2 m. from Killarney. The parish includes a portion of that town, and comprehends within its limits the beautiful island of Innis- fallen, and part of the lakes of Killarney. Area of par., 19,888 ac. Pop. in 1841, 3734. AGHADOWN, a par. Ireland, co. Cork; 8952 ac.; con tains several islands. Pop. in 1841, 5757. AGHADOWY, a par. Ireland, co. Londonderry; 16,346 ac. Pop. in 1841, 7884. AGHAGALLON, a par. Ireland, co. Antrim ; 7885 ac. Pop. in 1841, 3862. AGIIALEE, a par. and vil. Ireland, co. Antrim; 2500 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1450. AGHALURCHER, a par. Ireland, cos. Tyrone and Fermanagh; 48,017 ac. ; extends along Lough Erne, abounds in limestone and sandstone, and contains several small lakes, and old castles. Pop. in 1841, 16,740. AGHAMORE, a par. Ireland, co. Mayo; 22,820 ac. ; con tains several small lakes, and much bog. Pop. in 1841, 7675. AGHANCON, a par. Ireland, King s co. ; 5544 ac. ; con tains a mineral spring, and the ruins of Ballybrit Castle. Pop. in 1841, 1310. AGH ANLOO, a par. Ireland, co. Londonderry; 8251 ac. ; contains a mountain called Benyevenagh, which rises from the margin of Lough Foyle to a height of 1260 or 1280 ft. Pop. in 1841, 1841. AGHARRA. See AHARA. AGHARUN, or KHAKZIR (Hoo), a vil. Turkey in Asia, pash. Diarbekir; finely situated in a gorge of the mountains of Darkush Dagh, and surrounded by magnificent walnut trees. It commands a splendid view of the plain on which the gorge in which it is situated opens. AGHAVALLEN, a par. and vil. Ireland, co. Kerry ; 16,743 ac.; lies along the Shannon, and includes the island of Carng-a-foile ; contains an old castle. Pop. in 1841, 6606. AGIIER, a par. Ireland, co. Meath; 2063 ac. Pop. in 1841, 386. AGHERN, a par. Ireland, co. Cork; 3489 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1198. AGHERTON, or BALLYAGHRON, a par. Ireland, co. Lon donderry; 3897 ac. ; lies along the coast of the N. Channel, contains iron ore, and an old church, and castle. Pop. in 1841, 2318. AGHIART, or BALLYNAKILL, a par. Ireland, co. Gal way ; 5221 ac. ; lies along the shore of Ballynakill Bay. Pop. in 1841, 4998. AGHM AT, or AGIIMET, a vil. Morocco, on the W. slope of Mount Atlas, in the vicinity of some of its loftiest summits, on the left bank of the Wad Enfis, a tributary of the Tensift, 30 m. S. Morocco ; lat. 31 20 N. ; Ion. 7 35 W. It is said to have been at one time the residence of the Moorish emperor, and to have contained 6000 houses ; but it is now an insigni ficant village. AGHNAMEADLE, a par. Ireland, co. Tipperary; 10,322 ac. Pop. in 1841, 3893. AGHOLD, a par. Ireland, co. Wicklow; 8140 ac. Pop. in 1841, 2764. AGHOR, a river, Beloochistan, forming the S.E. boundary of prov. Mekran. It rises in the district of Lus, takes a S. course for about 50 in., and falls into the Indian Ocean about lat. 25 25 N. ; Ion. 65 56 E. AGHOURE, or FRESHFORD, a par. Ireland, co. Kilkenny ; 2171 ac. Pop. in 1841, 2650. AGIIRIM, or AUGHRIM, a decayed vil. Ireland, co. Gal- way, 82 m. W. Dublin, and 28 E. town of Galway ; memorable for the signal and decisive victory obtained in its neighbour hood, July 12, 1691, by the forces of King William, com manded by General de Guikell, afterwards Earl of Athlone, over those of James II., under the French general, St. Kuth, who was killed early in the action. Swords, spear heads, and cannon balls, have frequently been dug up on the site of the battle. In the village are a church, a chapel, and a small Methodist meeting house. Pop. in 1841, 458. There is a village of the same name in co. Wicklow, on the left bank of the Derry, 34 m. S. Dublin. AG1NCOURT, now AZINCOURT, a vil. France, dep. Calais, 20m. S.S.W. St. Orner, and 30m. N.N.E. Abbeville; celebrated as the scene of the great victory, gained on St. Crispin s day, Oct. 25, 1415, by the English, over a French army more, than six times their number. The village of Agincourt, a dirty, insignificant place, contains only a pop. of 452. Of the castle mentioned by Shakspeare, as standing hard by, only the foundations remain. A wood still exists, supposed to be that in which Henry posted his archers. (History of England; Murray s Handbook for France.} AGIO STRATI [anc. Neat], an isl. of the Grecian Archi pelago, 20 m. S. Lenmos, and 46 m. W.N.W. Mytilini; lat. 39 31 N. ; Ion. 25 1 42" E. (R.) There is a small village on the W. side of the island. AGLIE, or AGLIA, a tn. Sardinian States, in Piedmont, 20 m. N. Turin, and 10 m. S.W. Ivrea. It has a collegiate church, and a superb royal residence, which contains a small but very choice collection of lioman antiquities, and a library. Pop. 3400. AGLISII, the name, with and without affixes, of a number of parishes, Ireland: 1, A par., co. Cork; 6771 ac. Pop. in 1841, 2579. 2, A par., co. Kerry; 4857 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1939. 3, A par., co. Waterford; 6856 ac. Pop. in 1841, 3783. 4, Aglish-Martin, a par., co. Kilkenny; 1343 ac. Pop. in 1841, 440. 5, Aglish-Clogliane, or English, a par., co. Tipperary; 5898 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1938. 6, Aglish- Cormick, or Liscormick, a par., co. Limerick; 1715 ac. Pop. in 1841, 738. 7, Aglish-Drinayh, or Ballinorane, a par., co. Cork; 3310 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1026. AGLY, a small river, France, which has its source in the dep. of Aude, near Quillan, from which it flows S.E., enters the dep. of the Pyrenees Orientales ; turns nearly due E. ; AGMONDESHAM AGKA and, finally, falls into the Gulf of Lyons 8 m. N.E. Pcrpig- nan, its whole course being between 50 and GO m. AGMONDESHAM. See AMERSHAM. AGNADELLO, a vil. Venetian Lombardy, prov. of, and 10 m. N.E. Lodi, district Pandino. Here, in 1509, Louis XII., King of France, gained a complete victory over the Austrians; and here, in 1705, Prince Eugene was defeated by the Duke of Vendome. Pop. 1600. AGNANO, a lake, Italy, about 4 m. S.W. Naples. The circular hollow in which it lies, is supposed to be an ancient crater; but some have ascribed its origin to an excavation made by Lucullus, to serve as a fish pond. It is from 1 to 2 m. in circumference, and derives its greatest beauty from the verdure on its margin, and from the fine hills around it. In summer, the air is unhealthy. Near the lake is the cele brated Grotto, del Cane, or Grotto of Dogs, a small aperture in the side of the mountain, remarkable for emitting a deadly vapour, to whose noxious effects it is a common practice to expose dogs, which are thus quickly deprived of all appearance of life, but are as quickly restored on being brought into the fresh air. This grotto is alluded to by the elder Pliny. Close by the lake are also the sulphurous vapour baths of San Ger mane, the Aniance Thermae of the Romans. (Eustace s Clas sical Tour, vol. ii. p. 382.) AGNES (ST.), a small market tn. and par. England, co. Cornwall. The former is built on a small rocky harbour near the Bristol Channel, about 8 m. N.W. Truro. It contains a free school, a British school, and several dissenting places of worship. The harbour is accessible at high water only, and, even then, is capable of receiving but a few small vessels. There is, however, some trade in coal, lime, and slate. Market day, Thursday. This market, which is for all sorts of wares and provisions except corn, has been held from time immemorial. The inhabitants are chiefly miners. The coasts of the parish are exceedingly wild, rocky, and preci pitous. About St. Agnes Head the cliffs are tremendous, and have often been the scene of the most disastrous shipwrecks. A pilchard fishery was established here about the year 1802. Opie, the painter, was a native of St. Agnes, having been born there in 1761. Area of par. 8660 ac. ; pop. in 1841, 7757. AGNES (ST.), the most southerly of the Scilly Islands, on the coast, and included in the county of Cornwall, lat. 49 53 36" N. ; Ion. 6 20 42" W. (K.) It is of an irregular form, with an area of about 300 ac. The soil is fertile, and tolerably cultivated ; but there is a great deficiency of water. On one of the loftiest hills, a lighthouse was erected in 1680. The light, which is revolving, is elevated 138 ft. above high water mark. Pop. in 1841, 243. AGNO. 1, A river, Lombardy, an affluent of the Adige from the left. It rises about 21m. N.W. Verona, takes a S.E. and somewhat winding course, passes Lonigo, Cologna, and Este, and falls into the Adige at Kotta Sabadina, 8 m. N.W. Eovigo. Length, exclusive of windings, about 46 m. 2, Market tn., with stream and valley of the same name, Switzerland, in canton Tessin, of which it is one of the most important places. The town is in the district of Lugano, and lies at the N. end of the Lago d Agno, the W. arm of the Lago Lugano. It is beautifully situated, and has two hand some churches. The inhabitants are R. catholics, and speak Italian. Pop. 726. AGNONE, a tn. Naples, prov. Sannio, district of, and 18 m. N.E. from Isernia; pleasantly situated on a hill, and said to be built on the site of the ancient Aquilonia of the Samnites. It has 18 churches, an hospital, and five monts- de-piete, which advance loans of seed corn to the poor agri culturists in the neighbourhood. It is celebrated for the excellence of its copper manufactories, of which it has several. Pop. 7460. AGNUE, or AKNUR, a tn. Punjab, on the right bank of the Chenab, 35 m. above where it is joined by the Tauhi, or Makkati river; 95 m. N.N.W. Lahore; lat. 32 52 N.; Ion 74 58 E. It is a place of no importance, situated at the base of the most southern range of the Himalaya, where i first rises above the plain of the Punjab. The river is here protected by a stately fort, probably more picturesque than useful, built early in the present century by Alum Singh, and subsequently plundered by JRanjeet Singh. The old palace is in ruins, and imparts a picturesque appearance to the place. Near Agmir rises the mountain Trikota; and about half way up its N. side is a place of pilgrimage, with a temple, much celebrated for its beauty and sanctity. The river Chenab is here a strong, clear stream, with water of icy coldness. It becomes navigable a little way above Agnur, and continues so to the sea. (Hiigel s Travels; Thornton s Gaz.} AGO, a small isl. Sweden, Gulf of Bothnia, Ian or co. Gefleborg, about 6 m. from the mainland; lat. 61 32 N., Ion. 17 22 E. AGOA DE PAO, a seaport tn. St. Michaels, one of the Azores, on the S. coast of the island; 12 m. E. Ponta del Gada, the cap. Pop. 3000. AGON, a small seaport tn. France, dep. Mancho, about 7 m. W. Coutances. Vessels are fitted out here for the New foundland cod fishery. It has also some trade in timber and slates, and was formerly celebrated for its fair. Pop. 1506. AGOONA, a small state, W. Africa, Gold Coast, territory of Ashantec; between lat. 5 25" and 5 45 N.; Ion. 10 and 40 W. It is thus about 30 m. from E. to W., and about 20 from N. to S. There are one Danish, one Dutch, and one British settlement on the coast of this district, named, respect ively, Christiansborg, Crevecceur, and Fort James. Win- nebah was formerly the most important place in Agoona, but it is now abandoned. AGOKDO, a small tn. Austrian Italy, on the left bank of the Cordevole, 13 m. N.W. Belluno; lat. 46 16 N.; Ion. 12 5 E. It lies in a mountainous district, containing rich mines of sulphuretted copper. Pop. 3500. AGOSTA, or AOUSTA, a seaport tn., S.E. coast Sicily, prov. of, and 12 m. N.N.W. from Syracuse; lat. 37 13 N.; on. 15 14 E. It stands on the S. side of a peninsula that ;erminates in Cape Santa Croce, and is fortified. It was a place )f some importance before the earthquake of 1693, which buried more than a third of its inhabitants under the ruins of their houses. To deepen the calamity, the citadel was blown up, the powder magazine having been ignited, as was sup posed, by the sulphurous vapours that issued from the ground. The houses are mean, and the inhabitants have a squalid and poverty-stricken look. The port is spacious, though of rather difficult access, and liable to heavy swells when the wind is from the E. or S. It exports a little wine, oil, and sardines, and has a considerable trade in salt, which is the chief article of export. Pop. 10,000. AGOWS, a people of Abyssinia, divided into three dis tinct tribes, one of which inhabits the fertile country lying immediately W. from the sources of the Blue Nile, in the territory of Amhara ; another, called the Gualin Agows, in habits a district on the E. bank of the Tecazze, in Tigre" ; the third occupies a tract on the the N. bank of the same river, also in Tigr^. AGRA, a gov., prov., and district, Hindoostan. The GOVERNMENT includes the N.W. provinces Delhi, Mcerut, Rohilcund, Agra, Allahabad, and Benares (which see), contain ing an area of 51,861 sq. m., and a pop. of 19,733,742. The PROV. of Agra, cap. same name, is situated chiefly between lat. 25 and 28 N.; bounded, E. by Oude and Allahabad, S. by Malwa, W. by Ajmeer, and N. by Delhi. It is about 250 m. long, and 180 broad, and is subdivided into five dis tricts, which, with their area, population, &c., are exhibited in the following table : Muttra Agra Furruckabail. Mvupoorie... Etawali Total Number ofT.i-.vn. ships. gto.sq.m. Ann in Acres. J ta 1845-6. Total Pop. Number of per sons to ad^geo 948 1287 20S4 1467 1518 1103 1*03 15G2 1510 1265 934,279 1,188,414 1,3-23,206 1,280,062 1,071,637 102,633 160,032 l:;u>! .) 118,fi73 130,180 400,772 657,182 777,089 481,781 458,610 417-7 468-5 497-5 319-0 3H2-5 7254 G843 5,797,598 702,068 1^,835,434 The average rate of the land tax on the total cultivation, according to the table by Mr. Thornton in the Journal of the Statistical Society, from which the preceding is an extract, is 4s. &d. per acre. The province is watered by the Ganges, the Jumna, the Chumbul, and various smaller streams. It is gener ally flat, and destitute of wood, but the S. and W. are hilly, and abound in jungles, which swarm with peacocks. In many parts there is a great deficiency of water, the smaller streams being either absorbed by the heat, or turned aside by the cultivators of AGRA AGKAM the soil, for purposes of irrigation, before they reach the larger ; wells are, therefore, the only other resource of the inhabit- flnts. The climate, except during the prevalence of the hot winds, is temperate and healthy, and, in winter nights, cool; but, on the whole, unfavourable to European constitutions. The soil is well adapted for the cultivation of indigo, cotton, tobacco, and sugar. Various kinds of grain and pulse, includ ing millet, barley, wheat, &c., are also raised. Wheat and barley, however, form the principal crops ; rye and oats being hardly known. Owing to the scarcity of water, rice is little cultivated except in the vicinity of rivers. Cotton is the staple product. Agra has the common breeds of cattle and sheep, with horses of a good description. There are some marble and sandstone quarries ; and copper has been found, but not in a situation favourable to mining. Silks and mus lins were formerly manufactured, but the principal article of manufacture is coarse cotton cloth, the exportation of which Las latterly much declined. This province, which was marked out by the Emperor Akbar, is now entirely either in posses sion, or under the control, of Great Britain. The natives, who r.re principally Hindoos and Mahometans, are handsome and robust, and much superior to the natives of the more E. pro vinces. The Hindoostanee is the colloquial, and the Persian, or English, the official language. The DISTRICT of Agra extends in a S.E. direction along both banks of the Jumna, to its junction with the Chumbul. The portion of the district within these two rivers is a table land, about 60 ft. above the beds of these streams, and is composed of a light soil. In the dry season, the tanks and rivulets are without water. The entire area of the district is 1,188,414 ac. The quantity of cultivated land is 813,655 ac., and of culturable land 92,931. The natives of Agra, and of many of the contiguous territo ries, have long been notorious for their predatory habits, which, previously to British ascendency, were connived at, and encouraged by, the Zemindars, or landholders, who shared in the plunder thus obtained. The total population amounts to 657,182 ; of which 586,256 are Hindoos, and 70,926 Mahometans and others, not Hindoos. (Hamilton s East India Gazetteer: Historical and Descriptive Account of British India; Journal of the Statistical Society of London, 1847.) AGRA, or AKBARABAD, a city of Hindoostan, cap. of prov. of same name, on the right bank of the river Jumna ; 115m. S.S.E. Delhi; 740 m. W.N.W. Calcutta; 630 N.N.E. Bom bay; and 1000 m. N. by W. Madras; lat. 27 11 N. ; Ion. 78 E. A great part of the city is now in a ruinous state, but it still maintains much of its original splendour. The houses, generally, are lofty, consisting of several stories, and the streets extremely narrow. It contains no modern buildings of any note, but some of its more ancient structures are on a scale of great magnificence. Of these the most celebrated is the Tauje, or Taje Mahal, a mausoleum, built in the 17th century, by the Emperor Shah Jehan, in commemoration of Noor Jchan, his favourite queen. This superb edifice, ttie finest in India, probably in the world, stands on the banks of the Jumna, is enclosed on three sides by a high red stone wall, and forms a quadrangle of 190 square yards, with a lofty dome of 70 ft. diameter in the centre, and tall minarets rising from the angles of the terrace. It is built of white marble, and the great central hall, in which are the tombs of the Emperor and his queen, is paved with alternate squares of various coloured marbles; while the walls, tombs, and screens, are ornamented with the most exquisite mosaic work, chiefly of cornelian, lapis lazuli, and jasper. The chambers and corridors, which surround the hall, are finished with similar elegance. The whole cost of the building is said to have been 3,174,802 sterling. It is surrounded by a beautiful garden, adorned with fountains of white marble, and contain ing a profusion of fine trees and flowering shrubs. It is now in charge of the British Government, and is kept in the highest order. The imperial palace, built by the Emperor Akbar, the Mootee Musjeed, or pearl mosque, both now used as offices, warehouses, and lodgings ; the mosque named the Jumna Musjeed, and the tonib of Etimaud-ud-Dowlah, are all re markable structures. In the neighbourhood are likewise numerous splendid remains of Indian art. The fort of Agra is large, and strongly built of red sandstone, with a ditch, a double rampart, and bastions. It has been repaired, and much improved, for the accommodation of the British garrison. The trade of Agra, carried on partly by land and partly by water, consists chiefly in the exportation of indigo, silk, and sugar ; and the importation of horses, camels, grain, fresh and dried fruits, and manufactured silk and cotton. Agra was at various periods the seat of the Mogul Government, and is intimately connected with the whole modern history of India. Previously to the 16th century, it was an inconsiderable village; but, early in that century, it seems to have been first made an imperial residence by the Afghan Emperor, Sekunder. It was further enlarged by Akbar about 50 years afterwards, and by him named Akbarabad. It continued to be the occasional seat of Government till the final decay of the Mogul dynasty, about the middle of the 18th century. In 1784, it was taken by the Mahratta chief, Madhajee Sindia, who retained possession of it till 1803, when it was besieged and captured by the British under Lord Lake. Soon after, it was made the head quarters of a civil establishment for the administration of justice, and collection of revenue ; and subsequently became the seat of the British lieutenant-governor of the N.W. pro vinces. This city is the birthplace of the celebrated Abul Fazel, vizier or prime minister to Akbar, whom he assisted in the preparation of a work entitled the Ayeen Akberry, con taining an account of everything connected with the domin ions, government, and occupations of that emperor. Agra is still regarded with great veneration by the Hindoos, as the birthplace of the sixth Avatar, or incar nation of the god Vishnu, named Parasu Rama, whose conquests extended to the island of Ceylon. Pop. in 1837, 96,597. (Historical and Descriptive Account of British India; Heber s Indian Journal; Hamilton s East India Gazetteer; Jac- quemont s Letters from India ; Martin y British Possessions in the East Indies.) AGRAM, or ZAGKAB [Latin, Zagra- lia] , a city, Hungary, cap. Croatia, on the left bank of the Save, from which it is about 2 m. distant; 106 m. E. by N. Trieste; lat. 45 48 54" N.; Ion. 15 39 8" E. (L.); finely situated on a wooded f-lope, overlooking the fertile plain of the Save. It is the seat of various local courts, and of a bishopric. It is divided into three parts the free, or upper town ; the lower, or chapter town ; and the bishop s town. The first crowns a hill called Mcdred, or The Bear ; and it is the most fashionable of the three, being in habited exclusively by the higher classes. The streets hero are regular and well built ; many of the houses are in tho Italian style, with flat roofs; and the whole is surrounded with | palisaded walks, planted with poplars, forming an agreeable AGRAMUNT AGUILAR DE LA FRONTERA promenade. In the lower town, the houses are old and mean, and the streets and squares ill paved. The principal buildings are the cathedral, episcopal palace, the Narodne Domo, the national casino, or club-house, and the Government house. The cathedral is a lofty and spacious building, in a mixed style, the front being Byzantine of the llth century, and the body Gothic. The great eastern window, which has been recently renewed with painted glass, is a magnificent specimen of this beautiful art. The episcopal palace still has the castellated round towers of the Middle Age ; but the moat is now replaced by a garden, and the curtain has been pierced with modern windows. The income of the bishop is little short of 30,000 a year. Both these buildings, the cathedral and palace, adjoin the lower town. The Government house, in which the diets are held, is situ ated in the upper town. The Narodne Domo is an elegant new structure, in the Palladian style of architecture, contain ing a museum, and the rooms of the Agricultural Society. There has been lately founded here an institution for sisters of charity, to which the bishop contributed 15,000. The building occupies a prominent position in the lower town, and includes within its walls an hospital for poor women, arid a school for poor female children, as well as the dormitories and church of the sisterhood. There are also a civil and military hospital, an orphan institution, and a German and lllyrian theatre, which, however, are open only in winter. Two journals are published in the town, both conducted with considerable talent; and there are two libraries a public library, and the cathedral library. The educational institu tions comprise a royal academy, a primary and preparatory schools, and a theological seminary. There are manufac tories of silk and porcelain, and a considerable trade in tobacco and honey. Within a few miles of the town is the bishop s English park, a favourite resort of the inhabitants in the summer season ; it is of several miles extent, ornamented with oaks, and intersected by numerous beautiful drives. The Save is not navigable for steamers so far up as Agram ; but from Sissek, at the confluence of the Culpa, a weekly steamer descends to Semlin, opposite Belgrade, except during the winter months. Pop. 14,800. (Paton s Highlands and Islands of the Adriatic, vol. ii. p. 138; Eaffelsperger, Lex. Oesterreich. Staaten.} AGRAMUNT, a tn. Spain, in Catalonia, prov. of, and 25 m. N.E. from Lerida, at the foot of a hill on the right bank of the Sio. The houses are regularly built, but the streets are tortuous and unpaved. It has a square, in which is an artesian fountain ; and it likewise possesses three churches, a townhall, hospital, Latin and other schools, and a public storehouse. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in raising corn and fruit for the markets of Barcelona ; in weaving dimities, and in manufacturing hempen sandals. Pop. 2G80. (Madoz.) AGRAPHA, or AGRAI>HO, a part of the Pindus range of mountains in Greece, between Thessaly and Epirus, which gives its name to a district of the Turkish pash. of Tricala. There is likewise a vil. named AGRAFIIA in the isl. of Corfu. AGREDA, a tn. Spain, in Old Castile, prov. of, and 28 m. E.N.E. from Soria, on the N. slope of the sierra Moncayo. It stands on the Queyles, which divides the town into two parts, and is carried underground ; having a fountain and the townhall situated over it, on a fine stone bridge of one arch. The streets are irregular, but the houses are well built, and there is a somewhat handsome square, lined with good houses. In this town are likewise three churches, an hospital, two schools, and an abattoir. The manufactures of the place, once much more important than they now are. consist of pottery- ware, soap, wax, sweetmeats, chocolate, and shoes. Agreda is supposed to occupy the site of the ancient Gracchuris, or Grceculis, which was built by the proconsul Sempronius Gracchus, in commemoration of his conquest over the Celti beri, and it contains some Roman remains. Pop. 3847. (Madoz.) AGREDA, or NEW MALAGA, a small tn. Colombia, S. America, republic Ecuador, district of, and 90 m. S.W. from Popayan ; 108 m. N.N.E. Quito ; founded in 1541. There are several gold mines in the neighbourhood. AGREVE (ST.), a small tn. France, dep. Ardeche, 40 m N.N.W. Viviers, on the Rhone. It contains a Calvinistic consistorial church, and has an active trade in grain, wine fruit, butter, cheese, and cattle. For wines, oils, soaps, chestnuts, and other articles, it forms the entrepot of the eighbouring cantons. Pop. 2485. AGRIB, AGAERIB, or GRARIB (MOUNT), a remarkable mountain of Central Egypt, about 16 m. inland from tho st of the Gulf of Suez ; lat. 28 7 N. ; Ion. 32 52 E. (R.) It is of a conical form, and of so great a height that it can be seen from a distance of 100 m. AGRI DAGH. See ARARAT. AGUA, an active volcano, Guatimala, close by the old tn. of that name ; lat. 14 33 30" N. ; Ion. 91 4 40" W. It rises to the height of 15,000 ft. forming a beautiful and perfect cone, verdant to the summit. It occasionally pours forth torrents of boiling water and stones, and has twice destroyed the old city of Guatimala. Agua is one of three olcanoes lying close together, and presenting a scene of great magnificence ; the others are Pacaya and Fuego. AGUACHAPA, a tn. Guatimala, prov. San Salvador, about 2 m. S. from the lake of the same name. It lies about 30 m. from the Pacific, on the road between the city of Guatimala and Sonsonate; lat. 14 N. ; Ion. 89 40 W. It is a place of considerable trade, and has extensive manufac tures of sugar. Pop. about 5000. AGUADILLA, a small coast tn. and haven, N.W. side of Porto Rico isl., at the N. end of a large sandy bay of the same name ; lat. 18 25 54" N. ; Ion. 67 8 W. (R.) The nhabitants, originally from the Canaries, cultivate tobacco and coffee, and carry on some trade. In the haven is good anchorage in 14 or 15 fathoms, and the only danger when approaching it is a reef running off m. from Point Palmas. Water good, and fresh provisions cheap. Pop. 2500. (West India Directory.} AGUAPEHI, a river, Brazil, prov. Matto-Grosso. It rises in the mountains fron which it takes its name, on the confines of Bolivia, about lat. 16 15 S., and, after a course first N. and then E. for about 100 m., falls into the Jauru, an uent of the Paraguay. From the same mountains rise the river Alegro, and some other streams, which fall into the Guapore, one of the head streams of the Amazon. These two rivers, the Aguapehi and the Alegro, the waters of both of which ultimately reach the Atlantic the former l>y the La Plata, and the latter by the Amazon approach at Villa Bella so near to each other, that between them there is only a portage of 3 m. AGUARY RIVER. See ARAGUARI. AGUAS CALIENTES, a tn. Mexico, prov. G uadalaxara, or Jalisco, 270 m. N.W. the city of Mexico, and 70 m. S. Zacatecas. By some it is said to be cap. of a district of the same name, in prov. Zacatecas. It lies in lat. 22 N. ; Ion. 101 45 W., on a level plain upwards of 6000 ft. above tho sea level, and is very favourably situated for trade, the great road from Zacatecas to Sonora and Durango, crossing here the highway from San Louis Potosi to Guadalaxara. I* has some handsome houses, numerous churches, three convents, and an hospital ; and is surrounded by rich gardens with olives, vines, figs, pears, &c. Manufactures of cotton fabrics carried on to some extent. An annual market is held for 14 days. The climate is mild and delightful ; the N. wind never affecting the town in consequence of its position on the W. slopes of the Cordilleras. In the vicinity are two warm mineral springs, from which the town takes its name, lying about ten yards apart from each other ; and having a tempera ture varying from 80 to 120. The water is impregnated with copper, remarkably clear, and of an agreeable tempera ture. Pop. supposed to be 20,000. (Ward s Mexico; Gregg s Commerce of the Prairies; Ritter s Staats Lex.} AGUILAR DE LA FRONTERA, a tn. Spain, Anda lusia, prov. of, and 22 m. S. by E. from Cordova, on the left bank of the Cabra, on the summits and acclivities of four low hills. It is divided into the upper and lower town ; the former is named La villa, from having formerly contained the prin cipal buildings. Many of the houses are of three floors, one of which is always occupied as a granary. Some of tho buildings as the chapter house, the prison, the fish market, and the abattoir are of good modern construction, and the whole town is remarkable for the whiteness of its houses, and the cleanliness of its streets. Frontera has, besides, three elegant public squares ; an old and a new townhall, both well built ; a murky unhealthy subterranean place of security for the accused ; a church, and several chapels ; a dismantled, but AGUILAS AHLEN Etrongly-built Moorish castle ; several well-attended schools, both endowed and private ; an hospital for the wandering poor ; ind an infirmary. The inhabitants are employed as agricul turists, carriers, and sheep, cattle, horse, and mule breeders ; in manufacturing soap, cloth for local consumpt, earthenware, tiles, and bricks, and in quarrying lime, gypsum, and freestone. A fair, for the produce of the district, is held in September. Pop. 11,836. (Madoz.) AGUILAS (SAN JUAN DE LAS), a small tn. and port, Spain, prov. Murcia, 24 m. S.E. Lorca, 39 m. S.W. Cartagena, on the Mediterranean ; lat. 37 23 N. ; Ion. 1 37 W. (R.) The port, in which resides consuls of England, France, and Portugal, is neither large nor secure at all seasons, and it is defended by a circular fort in rather a dilapidated condition. The town, which consists of well-built houses forming broad streets, has a spacious square, an elegant custom house, a public granary, an abattoir, a church, and a school. In the vicinity, the rich lead and silver mines, in the sierras Almag- rera and Loino de has, occupy a considerable number of the inhabitants, and others are employed in agriculture, and in fishing bonitos, sardines, &c. The exports consist of grain, salsola, barilla, lead, silver, &c., to the average extent annually of 195,000. Pop. 4832. (Madoz.) AGUIMES, a tn. Canaries, isl. of Gran Canaria, at the foot of Mount Guayadeque, and about 1100 ft. above the sea level. Its houses, chiefly of one floor, and built with little taste, form three irregular streets, and as many irregularly shaped squares, both of which are, however, well paved. It has a church, a badly-attended school, and, outside the town, a cemetery. The trade of Aguimes consists in sending to the Palmas market the produce of the vicinity, consisting of grain, fruits, honey, poultry, and oil of excellent quality. Pop. 3073. (Madoz.) AGULHAS (CAPE and BANK). The former is about 95 to 100 m. S.E. the Cape of Good Hope, and is the most S. land of Africa; lat. 34 51 S. ; Ion. 20 2 E. (R.) Its highest part is 455 ft. above the level of the sea, and its true meridional distance from the shore is nearly 1 m. Prom this point the descent E. is rather gradual ; W., the descent is at first steep, then slightly undulating; S., it is steep, then undulates to within 300 yards of the shore, where the ground becomes fl.it. A lighthouse has been recently erected on the Cape, the light of which was exhibited for the first time on March 1, 1849. The structure stands on an elevation of 52 ft. above high water, and bears N. 30 (magnetic), distant about 520 yards from the extreme point of the Cape. The tower is about 70 ft. high; and the light being 128 ft. above high water mark, may be seen from the deck of a vessel, in clear weather, at the distance of 18 m. Its lat. is 34 49 46" S.; Ion. 20 40" E. The Bank of Agulhas extends from the Cape of Good Hope, along the S. coast of Africa, to Great Fish River, a distance of about 560 m. Its breadth, gener ally, is about 100 m. ; but opposite Cape Agulhas, it stretches out in a triangular form to upwards of 200 m. The Cape cur rent apparently the cause of its formation passes clear of it throughout its whole length, defining accurately its seaward edge or limit. Grampuses, or whales, are frequently seen floating with their backs a little above water, more particu larly in moderate weather, with E. winds, when the water is smooth on the bank; at such times a ship may be liable to run against one of them before its crew are aware an accident which has frequently happened, to the great alarm of all on board. Large seals and solan geese also frequent the Bank. Fish likewise abound; Sir E. Belcher relating, in his Voyage of the Samarang, that in two hours he caught on the Bank 42 fine fish, varying from 6 to 36 Ibs.; and adding, that im mediately after taking the first fish, he found that the lead ceased to descend, in consequence of the dense shoal that swarmed below. Some of these were caught at the depth of 76 fathoms. Agulhas is Portuguese for needles. It is quite improper to write the name Lagulhas, or Lagullas, as is sometimes done. (Horsburgh s East India Directory; Voyage of the Samarang; Nautical Magazine for 1849 and 1850.) AHADKOJ,avil. Turkey in Asia, pash. Anadolia, a few hours journey E. from Ushak, or Hushak, which is situated lat. 38 58 N. ; Ion. 29 50 E. Ahadkoi is itself an insigni ficant village, but is remarkable for the extent and magnificence of the ruins in its vicinity. On the summit of a hill, says Mr. W J. Hamilton, we saw the remains of a theatre, with half the scena and proscenium standing, built of very large blocks of stone. All the seats of the cavea are gone, but the hollow clearly remaining. The ruins of another theatre, and of several temples, were also found by Mr. Hamilton, who adds, that architectural ornamented sculpture was lying about i n every direction, and many inscriptions, but chiefly sepulchral . These ruins, Mr. II. believes to be the remains of Trajanopolis. A1IAGUAY, a slave port on the coast of Guinea, about lat. 6 15" N. ; Ion. 1 45 E. Besides the numerous slaves shipped at this port, there is some traffic in palm oil and ivory. The natives are of a depraved character, and given to every kind of vice, in which, however, they only follow the example of the numerous Spanish and Portuguese residents. Cotton is cultivated, spun, and woven into cloth, by the natives, who also cultivate indigo, and manufacture it in a rude manner. There are two markets daily, which are well supplied with Brazilian tobacco, yams, manioc root, plantains, bananas, ginger, pepper, cotton, grass bags, and mats of various colours, &c. Fish are caught in great abundance, chiefly in the Lagoon river, which is here about 70 yards wide in the dry season, and 3 ft. deep, and flows immediately behind the town. The vicinity of the town abounds in luxuriant tropical vegetation. (Duncan s Travels in Western Africa.} AHAMLISH, a par. Ireland, co. Sligo ; area, 16,414 ac. Lord Palmerston is proprietor of nearly the whole par. Pop. in 1841, 8720. AIIANTA, or AHAKTE, a maritime district of Ashantce (which see.) AHAR, a small tn. Persia, prov. Azcrbijan, 50 m. N.E. Tabreez ; lat. 38 25 N. ; Ion. 47 10 E. ; upon a river of the same name, and formerly surrounded by a wall, now in ruins. It contains about 700 houses, and the tomb of a saint held in reverence by the Mussulmans. The district around is well cultivated, and much wheat and barley are grown. Ahar river rises in the mountains N. of Tabreez, and flows at first to the E., then to the N., and, after a course of nearly 120 m., falls into the Aras, about 75 m. from the Caspian Sea. AIIAEA, or AGIIARRA, a par. Ireland, co. Longford; area, 2595 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1036. AHAKNEY, a par. Ireland, Queen s and Kilkenny cos. ; G940 ac. Pop. in 1841, 2586. AHASCKAGH, a par. Ireland, co. Galway; 17,342 ac. There is here a holy well, surrounded with fir trees, believed to possess great virtue. Pop. in 1841, 5380. AHAUS, a small tn. Prussia, prov. Westphalia, gov. of, and 27 m. W.N.W. from Miinster, on the right bank of the Aa. It is the cap. of a circle of the same name, and the scat of some local courts of justice, and has manufactures of linens, tiles, and tobacco. Dyeing and lime burning are carried on, and seven annual markets, for mercery and cattle, are held. It has a castle, built by Bishop Ferdinand of Plettenburg, but now the property of the Princes of Salm-Kyrburg, into whose possession the town came in 1802. Pop. 1760. (Ilulm s Lex: Deutschland.) AHII, or PEACOCK ISLAND, a small uninhabited isl. in the Low Archipelago, or Panmotu group, S. Pacific Ocean ; lat. 14 35 S. ; Ion. 146 27 W. (R.) It is well wooded, and is surrounded by a coral belt of from 200 to 500 ft. in breadth. Its lagoon, which is on the W. side, and to which there is only a small boat entrance, contains a favourite fish of the natives of the adjoining islands, who repair thither at certain seasons to take them. AHINAGH, a par. Ireland, co. Cork; area, 9420 ac. ; contains two ancient castles, and several antique standing stones. Pop. in 1841, 2699. AHIOLOU, AGHIOLT, or AKELO, a small tn. European Turkey, prov. Eoomclia, on the W. shore of the Black Sea, on a promontory at the entrance, and on the N. side of, the Bay of Burgas, and about llm. N.E. the tn. of that name; lat. 42 31 N. ; Ion. 27 32 E. In the neighbourhood are salt springs, and marshes, from which the inhabitants manu facture salt of inferior quality, the profits being the property of the Sultan. AHLEN, n small in. Prussia, prov. Westphalia, gov. of, and 17 m. S.E. from Munster, on the right bank of the Wersc. It is the scat of a local court, and has two K^Catholic churches ; oil-making and distilling are carried on, and three cattlo markets are held annually. Pop. 2750. AHMAR AIDAB AHMAR, EL-KOM, or EL-AHMAR [The red mound], marks the site of Ilieraconpolis, a very ancient city of Upper Egypt, which stood on the W. bank of the Nile, about lat. 25 10 N. ; Ion. 32 40 E., nearly opposite El-Kab. The word Ahmar occurs in the names of various other places in Egypt, one of which is a well, or cistern, styled El- Ahmar, about 30 m. S.W. Kosseir, where caravans rest on their way through the great desert of the Thebai d. AHMEDABAD, an anc. city of Hindoostan, cap. dis trict of same name, prov. Goojerat, on the left bank of the Sooburmuttee, 275 in. N. Bombay; Jat. 23 5 N. ; Ion. 72 40 E. It was formerly one of the most opulent and commercial cities in the East, and was celebrated for its buildings and handsome streets, but has now fallen into utter decay, having been ruined by the exactions of the Mahrattas. It was stormed by the British, under General Goddard, in 1780, but continued in the possession of the Mahrattas till 1818, when it was ceded to the British Govern ment by the ruling Peshwa, or chief civil minister of the Rajah. A great part of the city, and some of its most remark able edifices, were destroyed by the great earthquake of 1819; a considerable place, but is decayed; it is still, however, the among these was the great mosque, erected by Sultan ; outer port of Christianstad, and contains a custom house. Ahmed, nearly 450 years before. The excessive municipal j A1IWAZ, or AHWUZ [anc. Aginis], a small tn. Persia, luties levied by the Mahratta chiefs, were abolished by the I prov. Khuzistan, 48 m. S. Sinister, on the left bank of the British Government, and a better system of taxation intro- Karoon (Kdrun), (which see) ; lat. 31 22 N. ; Ion. 49 E.; in a duced. The pop. is supposed to amount to 100,000. Pop. flat uncultivated country. It occupies a portion of the site of district in 1831, 528,073. (Historical and Descriptive j of the old city, and is built with its material* It has a Account of British India ; Hamilton s East India Gazetteer; mean appearance; and the only respectable building it con- Martin s East Indies.} AHMEDNUGGUR, a city and fortress, Ilindoostan, cap. district of same name, presidency Bombay, prov. Aurunga- bad, on the Seena, 130 m. E. Bombay, and 70 m. N.E. by E. Poonah; lat. 19 10 N. ; Ion. 74 50 E. It is walled, and contains some well-built streets and a good market place. The fort, which is about J m. from the city, is built entirely of stone ; is of an oval form, with round towers, ditch, and AIIRWEILER, a small tn. Prussia, prov. Lower Rhine, gov. of, and 28 m. W.N. W. from Coblentz ; 25 m. S. Cologne, on the left bank of the Ahr ; chief place of circle of same name, and seat of local courts. It is agreeably situated, and surrounded with a fosse and walls, in which are four gates. It has two churches and a chapel. One of the churches, a beautiful Gothic structure, was erected in the 13th century. Ahrweiler is the centre of the wine trade of the Ahr valley, the slopes of which are covered with vineyards. The average annual produce in wine is 688,250 gals. There are here some manufactories of cloth, and some tanneries and dye- works. Pop. 3000. AH UN [anc. Aycdunum], a tn. France, dcp. Creuse; on a mountain, at the foot of which runs the river Creuse, llm. S.E. Guercr. It has manufactures of cloth, a good tiade in cattle, and nine fairs in the year. In the neighbourhood are extensive coal pits, and the remains of a celebrated abbey of the .order of Cluny, founded A.D. 997. Pop. 2212. A11US, or AHUYS, a vil. Sweden, about 10 m. S. Chris tianstad at the mouth of the Helge-i. It was at one time glacis ; and is about 1 m. in circumference. It was taken by the Duke of Wellington (then General Wellesley), in 1803. In the vicinity of Ahmednuggur are the mausoleum of Sala- but Jung, situated on the summit of a mountain ; and the ancient palace of the sultans, a massive pile, surrounded by a broad and deep moat, faced with solid masonry. In 1820, the pop., exclusive of the garrison, was estimated at 20,000. Area of district, 9910 sq. m.; pop. about 670,000. There is another town of the same name in the prov. of Goojerat, on the left bank of the Sooburmuttee; lat. 23 40 N. ; Ion. 73 10 E. AHMEDPOOR, a tn. Western India, state Buhawalpoor, on the route from the city of that name to Khanpoor, 30 m. tains is a mosque, apparently of modern date. The remains of the ancient city are numerous, and cover a great extent of ground ; showing that it had once been a great and flourishing place. Amongst the more remarkable of these ruins are those of a bund, or stone dyke, which was thrown across the river to from a store of water for the purposes of irrigation ; it is upwards of 100 ft. in length ; is, in several places, 10 ft. high ; about the same in breadth, and contains many single blocks measuring from 8 to 10 ft. There are also the remains of a fine bridge and of a spacious palace. On the S. side of the town, there are several singular cavities, and some neglected water mills. Pop. about 1 500, mostly Arabs. AI, a river, Russia in Europe, prov. Orenburg. It rises in the W. slopes of the Ural mountains, flows generally N.W., and falls into the river Oufa, about 100 m. N.E. the town of that name, after a course of about 170 m. AI, or AY, a tn. France. See AY. AIAS, AYAS, or AJASSO [anc. ^Eyce], a seaport of Asiatic Turkey, on the Bay of Iskenderoon, pash. Adana, 37 m. E.S.E. the town of that name, and 27 m. N.W. Iskenderoon; lat. 36 46 N. ; Ion. 35 47 E. (R.) It was once a considerable S.S.W. the former, and 45 m. N.E. by N. the latter; j place, and there are still some remains of its ancient pros- lat. 29 20 N. ; Ion. 71 30 E. The houses are, in general, ! perity ; but its trade has been long since transferred to Isken- built of mud. It contains a large mosque, with four tall deroon. There is a small village of the same name in the minarets ; and has manufactures of matchlocks, gunpowder, province of Anadolia, about 25 m. W. Angora, situated among cotton, silks, and loonghies, a fabric of rich coloured silks in terwoven with cotton of the brightest colours, about 4 yards in length and 2 in breadth, worn round the waist. The pop. has been variously estimated from 9000 to 30,000, but may probably be about 20,000. AHMOOD, AMOOD, or AMOD, a tn. and pergunnah, Hin doostan, prov. Goojerat, the former 30 m. S.S.W. Baroda, and hills, to which it gives its name. AIASALUK, or AY; 11. Asiatic Turkey, 38 m. S.E. by S. Smyrna, on a hill of the same name. The latter is a picturesque insulated eminence, crowned with a ruined castle, and covered, lower down, with the remains of the Turkish town which rose into existence when Ephesus was destroyed, and from the materials of which it was built. 60 m. N. Surat ; lat. 22 3 N. ; Ion. 73 10 E. The per- At the foot of the hill is a beautiful aqueduct, constructed gunnah, or district of villages, comprehends 22 1J sq. m., and chiefly of ancient fragments; and, on the western side, is a lies along the E. shore of the Gulf of Cambay, for a distance of } marble mosque of Saracenic construction. At a short distance 30 m. A great part of it is unproductive ; but more than a ! S.W. from the town are the ruins of Ephesus. The village half is under cultivation, and suitable for the production of cot- of Aiasaluk now consists of a few miserable huts only. ton, rice, wheat, and various Indian grains. It is the property of the East India Company, to whom it was ceded, in 1817, by Dowlet Row Sindia. The pop., in 1832, amounted to 1 6,347 ; of whom 13,144 were Hindoos, and 3203 Mahometans. AHOGIIILL, a par. and vil. Ireland, co. Antrim ; area, 32,987 ac. Contains a Moravian settlement called Gracehill. Pop. injl_841, 23,622. , Lower Rhine, rising (Hamilton s Asia Minor.) AIASH, or AYASH, a ruined seaport, Turkey in Asia, with some remains of antiquity. It lies on the coast of the Mediterranean, prov. Itchil (Cilicia) ; lat. 36 30 N.; Ion. 34 12 E. AICIIACII, a small tn. Bavaria, prov. Upper Bavaria [Obcr Baiern], 13m. N.E. Augsburg, on the right bank of the Paar, here crossed by three bridges. It is the scat of the AHR, or AAR, a river, Prussia, prov. in the Eiffelberg mountains, S.W. from Hildesheim. It | local court, and has a castle, church, "and three chapels, town- flows N.W., changing to N.E., and, passing through thevalley hall, orphan hospital, and general hospital ; breweries, distil- of the Ahr, falls into the Rhine near Sinzig, and opposite the leries, blcacheries, flourmills, &c., and some trade in flax, town of Linz, after a course of about 30 m. The scenery on Aichach was taken and burnt by the Swedes during the Thirty its banks is considered equal to that of the Rhine. In the Years war ; and, in 1704, by the Spaniards. Pop. 1850. valley of the Ahr some good wine is made. ! AIDAB, or DJIDYD, a seaport tn. Nubia, on the Red VOL. I. 7 A1DIN AIQUILLON Sea, 171 m. N.W. Berenice ; lat. 22 3 N. ; Ion. 37 10 E. During the lltli, 12tli,and 13th centuries, it was the entrepot of commerce between E. Africa and Arabia, and the point of embarkation for the caravans proceeding to Jidda, the port of Mecca. It is nearly surrounded with desert.*, and is now of little importance. AIDIN, IDEN, or GUZEL-HISSAE [anc. TraJlcs], a tn. [a Me Asiatic Turkey, pash. Anadolia, on the Meander, about 60 m. S.E. Smyrna. It is 4 m. in circuit, and is the residence of a pasha, and a place of great trade, being next in commercial rank to Smyrna. Bazaars, shaded by trees, form the streets. It contains many fine mosques, churches, and synagogues. Of the old city, there only remains enough to show that it occupied an elevation overlooking the modern town. On a height stand conspicuously the ruins of an ancient palace, which is visible from a distance of many miles. The bazaars present a very animated sight, from the variety of objects exhibited, and the picturesque costumes of the natives. The heat of the sun, and the dazzling whiteness of the houses, are gratefully relieved by the foliage of the trees and plants growing in and near the streets. The environs are no less beautiful; the town being surrounded with gardens and orchards, commanding a fine view of the plain. Pop., in cluding Turks, Armenians, Greeks, and Jews, about 30,000. A1DONA, a small tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 23 m. E.S.E. from Caltanisctta, and 5 m. N.E. Piazza, in the Val-di noto. Pop. 3700. AIDOS, a tn. European Turkey, Bulgaria, at the foot of Mount Haemus, about 40 m. S. Shumla, and 85 m. N.E. Adrianople. It is a place of some antiquity, and was besieged and taken by Amurath, in 1391. It is noted for some hot springs in its vicinity, and for a large annual fair. Al GASH, or AIGAS, a small but beautiful isl. in Inver ness-shire, Scotland, formed by the river Beauly, which, here parting in two, again unites, and thus insulates the spot to which the above name [Gaelic, Eilans Aiga] has been given. It is a high rounded hill, covered with oak and birch, and is noted for having been the place of retreat selected by Lord Lovat, when letters of fire and sword were issued against him by King William, in 1697. It is 4 m. S.W. Beauly, and about 14 m. S.W. I in of Sir Robert Peel. jrness. The island is now the property AIGEN, the name of numerous localities in Austria, Bavaria, and Wiirtemberg, none of which are of any im portance. A1GIITON, a township, England, co. Lancaster ; area, 5780 ac. Here are an almshouse, R. catholic college of Stony- hurst, and cotton factories. Pop. in 1841, 1798. AIGLE, a small tn. Switzerland, Pays de Vaud, cap. of a district to which it gives its name ; situated on the tor rent called La Grande Eau, in the Val d Ormond, about 1 in. E. from the Rhone, and 21 m. S.E. Lausanne, on the high road to Martigny. The houses, built of black marble quarried in the vicinity, and unpolished, give the town a sombre appear ance. The inhabitants are principally employed in agricul ture, and the cultivation of vines; the produce of which is much esteemed. Pop. 1650. AIGLE (L ), a tn. France, dep. Orne, 80 m. W.S.W. Paris, agreeably situated on the sides of two hills on the river Rille, which divides it into three parts. It is well built, but has few architectural objects of any note. There are three churches, one of which, St. Martin s, is very large, but none of them are otherwise remarkable. In the centre of the town is a castle, or chateau, built of brick, and surrounded by lime trees of extraordinary size and beauty. L Aigle is noted for its industry, and has manufactures of linen, cotton, paper, leather, cutlery, and hardware ; and a good trade in corn, wood, and cider. Large quantities of needles and pins are made here, which are held in high repute. In the neighbour hood are the mineral waters of St. Santin. Pop. 5584. AIGLE (L ), a small isl. Lower Canada, in the St. Lawrence, formed by the confluence of that river with the riviere dcs prairies, which forms the S. boundary of the Island of Montreal. AIGNAN (Sr.), a tn. France, dep. Loir-et-Cher, 50 in. >.W. Orlciius, on the left bank of the Cher. It is a very duced is estimated to amount to about 35 or 40 millions. Cloth, earthenware, and saltpetre, are also made here, and there is some trade in wine and wood. Pop. 3146. A1GRE, a tn. France, dep. Charente, 20 m. N.N.W. Angouleme, agreeably situated on an isl. formed by Lcmps, an affluent of the Charente. Here are numerous brandy distilleries, and a good trade is carried on in grain, hemp, flax, &c., but particularly in brandy. It has also some trade in hemp, onions, and wine. Pop. 1662. A1GREFEUILLE, the name of two villages, France, the one in the dep. Charente Inferieure ; and the other in Loire Inferieure. Pop. of the former, 1688; of the latter, 1275. AIGUEBELLE, AQUABELLA, or AQUA BELLJE [anc. Carbonaria], a tn. and commune, Sardinian States, Savoy, near the French frontier, 6 m. W. Chambeny, 984 ft. above the level of the sen. It was destroyed by the Btirgundiuns about the fifth century ; rebuilt under the name of Aquabella; sacked by the Saracens in 835 ; and rebuilt by Berold, King of Saxony, in 998. In the neighbouring mountains are mines of copper and iron. Pop. 1286. A1GUEPERSE [Latin, Aqua Sparsa], a tn. France, dep. Puy de Dome, 19 m. N.N.E. Clermont, and 190 m. S.S.E. Paris. It consists of a single street ; lined with hand some houses, and has manufactories of cloth, felt hats, and candles. In the neighbourhood is a mineral spring, which exhales carbonic acid so pure that animals are often suflbeated with its waters ; hence c;,lled, by the people of the district. La Fontaine empoisonnSe. Pop. 2969. There is another town of the same name, or Aiguesperses, as sometimes spelt, with a pop. of 1003, in the district of Villefranchc, dep. of the Rhone. AIGUES-MORTES [Latin, Aqua Mortuce], a decayed tn. France, dep. Gard, 20 m. S.S.W. Nismes ; near the mouths of the Rhone, on the Grau du Roi, at the junction of the Canal de Beaucaire with that of Etangs. It is a fortified place, and, from its position, forms an important military post for the defence of that part of the coast. The exhalations from the salt marshes by which it is surrounded, render it very unhealthy. A good deal of potash is made here, and some trade is earned on in fresh and salt fish ; principal articles ot export, salt and wines; of import, grain, soap, colonial produce, and wood. The town was founded in 1248, by St. Louis of France, who embarked here, in that year, for the crusades. The walls and gates are still entire, but the fosse has been filled up. Before entering the town, to the north, is a single round tower, 90 ft. high, called the Tower of Constance, built by St. Louis, and surmounted by an old lighthouse turret of 34 ft., which was used as a prison for Protestants, chiefly females, who adhered to their religion after the revocation ot the Edict of Nantes. It was long supposed that, since the 13th century, the sea had retired about 3 m. from the town. It seems now to be ascertained, however, that the sea never came so far up as its walls ; but that close to the town there was a small port, connected with a canal, now filled with sand, extending thence to the harbour of Grau du Roi, on the Medi terranean. Not far from Aigues-Mortes are the celebrated salt lakes of Peccais, protected by the fort of that name, which yield salt of fine quality, to the estimated value of 60,000 yearly. Pop. 3968. (Murray s Handbook for France ; Balbi, Abrcye, &c.) AIGUILLE (L ), [The needle], a mountain of France, formerly reckoned one of the seven wonders of Dauphine", dep. Isere, canton Vczille, situated between the hamlet of Souchons and the town of Corps, nearly 4 m. from the latter, on the left of the great road from Grenoble to Gap; 6562 ft. above the level of the sea. The lower part resembles a truncated cone, while the upper portion is of a cubical form, as if a second mountain had been placed above the first. It is also called Mons Inaccessits, having been long supposed inaccessible, bat, in 1492, Charles VIII., passing Grenoble on his expedi tion to Naples, sent the captain of his Echcleurs to try to gain the summit, in which he succeeded. AIGUILLON, an ancient tn. France, dep. Lot-et-Garonnc, in a fertile vale, on the left bank of the Lot, about 1 m. above its influx into the Garonne, 16 m. N.W. Agen. It is still sur rounded by a ditch, the remains of its ancient fortification. It dustrious place, and noted for its manufactory of gun flints, of j has two castles, both situated on an eminence one old and rc- which the only quarries worked in France those of Meusne i markable for its extent, and the great variety of styles of which and Co u fly are in the vicinity. The quantity annually pro- | it is composed ; the other modern, in the Italian style, find a AIGURANDE 51 AfN-MADI fine structure. There are here a communal college, ami rnanu factories of serges and druggets. It lias also some trade in corn, hemp, wines, and brandy. A bridge of seven arches here crosses the river Lot. Pop. 3994. AIGUEANDE, a small tn. France, dcp. Indre, partly on a hill, and partly on a plain, 26 in. S. (Jhateauroux, surrounded with walls and ditches. An extensive trade is carried on here in cattle, and fairs are frequently held. Pop. 2087. AIKTON, a par. England, co. Cumberland ; area, 5270 ac. Pop. in 1841, 802. AILAH, or ELANA, a decayed tu. Arabia, in the Hejaz, at the N. extremity of the Gulf of Akabah; about 2 m. N. the village and fort of that name, and 130 m. E. Suez. A few scanty ruins are all that remain of it ; and even its site is now a subject of dispute, being often confounded with Akabah. Anciently called Ailoth, or Eloth, it gave its name to the E. or Elauitic branch of the lied Sea. It is mentioned by Moses in his account of the journeyings of the Israelites, and Solomon used it as a naval station for his ships. It is also mentioned by several Arab writers. AILSA CRAIG, a remarkable rocky conical isl. Frith of Clyde, Scotland, co. Ayr; lat. 55 15 12" N. ; Ion. 5 7 W. (u.); 10" m. distant, Vv ., from the coast of Ayrshire at Girvan, and double that distance E., from the coast of Argyleshire, near the Mull of Cantyre. It has au elliptical base of 3300 ft. in the AILSA FROM THE SOUTH From Sketch hy R. Til.iek major axis, by 2200 in the minor, and rises abruptly from the sea to the height of 1098 ft. It consists of columnar trap, ap proaching in some parts to basalt ; and is precipitous on all sides except the N.E., on which it slopes towards the shore, and where alone it is accessible. At a considerable elevation are the ruins of an old tower or castle. The vegetation on various parts of the surface is described as luxuriant, though there is little pasture on it. It is a breeding place for innumer able sea fowl, gulls, kittiwakes, puffins, solan geese, &c. A few rabbits and goats inhabit the rock. It is chiefly from the feathers of the birds that the rent of the island is derived, and it is only during the season when the birds are sought for that any one resides on the island. It is surrounded with banks well stocked with fish. AILU, a small isl. in the N. Pacific Ocean, a little S. from the Kadack chain; lat. 10 27 N. ; Ion. 170 E. (E.) AI M ARAEZ, a district, Peru, dep. Lima, at the foot of the Cordillera de Huambo, extending about 130 m. from N. to S., and 26 from E. to W., and comprising 50 villages. The climate is generally cold, except in some of the valleys, which produce sugar and grain, and afford pasturage for cattle. Three rivers pass through the district, but, on account of the height and steepness of their banks, are unavailable for any purpose, till their united streams, in lat. 14 S.; Ion. 73 W., form the Pachachaca, which ultimately falls into the Apu- rimac, being previously crossed by a number of suspension bridges. The numerous veins of gold and silver with which the district abounds, are neglected. Pop. 15,000. AIMARGUES, a small tn. and commune, France, dep. Card, 13 m. S.W. Nismes ; in the middle of a marsh, between the rivers Vistre and Vidourle. It has some trade in brandy. It was here that St. Louis and his brother, the Count of Thonlouse, assembled their troops, previous to their departure ft r the crusades. Pop. 261 1. A IN, a river, France, which rises among the slopes of the Jura, about 3 m. N.E. from Nozeroy, and, after pursuing a ! S.S.W. course for more than 90 m., flows into the Khone opposite the village of Anthon, about 20 m. above Lyons. It gives its name to a department in the former province of Burgundy. Large quantities of planks and timber are floated down this stream. AIN, a frontier dep. France, in the ancient province of Burgundy, separated into two nearly equal parts by the river from which it takes its name ; bounded, N. by the depart ments of Saone-et-Loire and Jura; E. by Switzerland and Savoy, from which the Khone divides it, as it does also from the department of Isere on the S.; and W. by the Saone, which separates it from the departments of Saune-et-Loirc and Khone. Its length from E. to W. is about 52 m.; its breadth about 48 at the broadest parts. The E. portion is very mountainous, containing a prolongation of the Jura chain. Besides afford ing good pasturage, it yields asphalt, gypsum, potters clay, marl, iron, freestone, and limestone; and the best lithographic stones in France are produced near Belley. The W. division, or district on the right bank of the Ain, though in parts somewhat marshy, has extensive tracts of cultivated land. About the middle of the department, in the mountains, is the Lake of Naiitua, about 1300 ft. above the level of the sea. Numerous pools and small lakes are found in the S.W., which are alternately drained for cultivation, and used for breeding fish. The whole number of lakes in the department the largest not above 2 m. long exceeds 1600, and the humidity occasioned by them is stated to be very prejudicial to the health. The tillage is chiefly effected by oxen, and the pro duce of the harvest is sufficient for the consumption of the department. The chief products are rye, maize, corn, wheat, salt, oil, and wine. Great numbers of horses, cattle, and sheep, are also reared. The greater portion of the wines are exported ; those of Seyssel, as good vin ordinaire, being the- most esteemed. The manufactures consist chiefly of cloth at Bourg, the capital of the department, and at Montluel, near the Ehone ; linen, and paper, at Nantua, Chatillon, and other places ; straw hats at Lagnieux, and watches at i Bourg, and at Ferney, celebrated as the residence of Voltaire. | (See these towns.} A good trade is also carried on in leather, poultry, wood, and cheeses, of which those made at Gex are highly esteemed. The geographical position of this department makes it the passage for the commerce between the N. and the S. of France, from Strasburg to Marseilles. The transit is incessant during the period of the importation of grain from Barbary, received at Marseilles and intended for Switzerland. The department is subdivided into five arrondissements, 35 cantons, and 443 communes, and contains 22 cities, 404 market towns and villages ; and 1467 hamlets. It forms the diocese of Belley. Pop. in 1846, 367,362. Except in the arrondissement of Gers, where the greater por tion are Protestants, the inhabitants generally are K. catholics. (French Official Papers; Die. de la France.} AINAD, or AINAUD, a tn. and district, Arabia, prov. Hadramaut. The town lies on the right bank of the Wady Hagger, about 207m. N.E. Aden; about lat. 15 12 N.: Ion. 47 10 E. About one day s journey from it is the tomb of Kaktau, a celebrated place of devotion, at which a great fair is also held. (Chesney s Euphrates Expedition.} AINAD A, or INADA, a small tn. European Turkey, prov. Koomelia, on the W. coast of the. Black Sea, near a small bay and cape of the same name, about 74 m. E. Adrianople. It is surrounded by marshes, and is extremely unhealthy. The Cape of Ainada is the T1iynias promontorium of the ancients; lat. 41 52 N. ; Ion. 28 3 E. AIN AMER, a vil. Algeria, Sahara desert, 10 m. S.E. Ourgla, and 395 m. S. Algiers; lat. 31 N.; Ion. 3 8 E. It consists of about 100 houses, surrounded by date trees; and by gardens, watered by numerous streamlets. In the vicinity is the salt lake, called Sebka and Malah, which every season yields 400 to 500 camel loads of salt, without any apparent diminution of the quantity. A1NUER13Y-STEEPLE, a par. England, co. York, N. Riding; area, 4300 ac. ; near Great North of England Kail- way. Pop. in 1841, 760. AIN-MADI, a tn., N. Africa, Algeria, built on a hill about 40 m. W. El-Aront, in an arid plain ; lat. 33 53 N. ; Ion. 2 48 W. It is of a semi-elliptical form, and is sur rounded with defences, and large Availed garden; the latter A1N-SEFISIFIA AIRDR1E nro irrigated by n stream rising at the foot of Mount El-Mar- I keb. The houses, of which there arc about 150 to 200, arc only of one story, and have terraced roofs. They arc built of | baked earth, small stones, &c., and are formed into streets so i narrow, as to be impassable by carriages. The town contains j one large mosque, or more. The house of the Tclterif, or governor, is the only one which is whitewashed ; all the others have a mean, dingy appearance. The place was attacked by Abd-el-Kader in 1838, and was besieged by him for eight months without success, lie got possession of it, however, by stratagem; but it was soon retaken. It is now a depend ency of Algeria. Pop. about 1500. (Sahara Algerien.) AJN-SEFISIFIA, or simply SKFISIFIA, a vil. Algeria, 161 m. S.S.W. Gran; lat. 33 25 N.; Ion. 1 15 W.? on a small stream of the same name, and on the S. slope of the Merad hills. The houses, according to one authority, about 250, and according to another, about 350 in number, are built of dry stone, some of them in a state of dilapidation that plainly indicates the circumstances of the people ; and besides, the chalky, sandy nature of the surrounding country contributes to impart to this village a miserable aspect. In the centre of the village is a sort of square, used as a caravansary for strangers; the streets are from 3 to 6 ft. wide; and the tolerably large mosque is supplied with a minaret. In the vicinity are a number of badly-kept gardens, protected by two towers. Wheat, barley, and several kinds of fruit, including grapes, are grown. (Bulletin Geo. Soc., 18-48.) AIN-SEFRA, a vil. Algeria, 151 m. S.S.W. Oran; lat. 33 3(T N.; Ion. 1 \V.; on the N. side of some extensive sand downs, which stretch about 9 m. N.E. to S.W. Its size is variously stated, from 102 to 250 houses, of tolerably solid construction. It has a mosque and a school, and exten sive and well-cultivated gardens, watered by a stream of the eaine name as the village, and surrounded by a general wall defended by 14 towers. Barley and onions are carefully cultivated, and peaches, almonds, and grapes are plentiful. (Bulletin Geo. Soc.; Sahara Algerien.) AINSTABLE, a par. England, co. Cumberland, 11 m. N.E. Penrith; area, 4110ac. Here was formerly a famous Benedictine nunnery, founded by William Rufus. Pop. in 1841, 501. AINSTY, a large district, England, co. York, W. Riding, W. the city of York, to which it is annexed under the name of the Ainsty of the city of York. It cnitains 49,720 ac., and had, in 1841, a pop. of 9479. AIN-TAB, or AEXTAB, an anc. tn. Syiia, cap. district of same name, 55 m. N. Aleppo ; lat. 37 8 N. ; Ion. 37 22 E. It lies on the Sajur, is tolerably well built, and contains 8000 Turkish, and 5UO Armenian houses, principally of stone, five fine mosques, several baths, an Armenian church, and good bazaars; its citadel, or castle, on the N. side, is built on a mound, resting upon rock, and has a very striking appear ance. On the opposite, or S. side, is a spacious cemetery, having the appearance of a large suburb. The town is well supplied with water, pure streams of which, it is said, flow constantly through the streets. The inhabitants are a mixed, but hardy, independent race. The district produces cotton. wool (sheeps and goats ), bees wax, &c. The cotton is coarse, and the sheeps wool mostly used in home manufac tures; but the goats is excellent, and the small quantities produced eagerly bought for exportation. The other articles of produce in the district are oil, grain, and rice. Manufac tures : yellow and morocco leather, and calico. Much pine wood is cut in the mountains and sent to Aleppo, with which, and Orfah, Marash, and the port of Alexandretta, it has com mercial communications, and is, on the whole, a place of con siderable importance. Vineyards arc numerous in the terri- i tory. Pop. of district, about 30,000 ; of the town, 3500 ; about one-fourth of the whole arc Christians or Jews. AIN TECAZZE, a small lake in Abyssinia, S. part of the prov. Tigrd, from which flows the river Tecazze, one of j the largest streams in Abyssinia. The lake lies in lat, 1 1 i 35 N.; Ion. 39 16 E. AINUNAJI. or AINUNE, a haven, Arabia, on the Red | Sea, E. from the entrance to the Gulf of Akabah ; lat. 28 3 N. ; Ion. 35 18 E. It is formed by the Bay of Ainune, which is enclosed by the islands of Ockmur-sur, Raymahn, and several coral reefs and small islets, some of which arc covered with mangroves. The entrance to this haven, is near Ockmur-sur Island, and is only practicable for small vessels. The interior of the haven is about 12 m. long, by about 6 broad, with a depth of 12 to 13 fathoms, and is the only secure place ot shelter in the N. end of the Red Sea. The coast is very stony, but not unfruitful, being overgrown with many wikl plants, flowers, and mimosa trees. The bay, or haven, takes its name from the ruins of the town of Ainune, which arc hard by ; and both have obtained their name from a rivulet which here disappears in the sands, the Ain Unne, that is, the streamlet Unne. At this streamlet, the pilgrims from Cairo to Mecca rest on the twelfth or fifteenth day of their journey. (Kilter s Arabien.) AIOU, or YOWL ISLAKDS, a circular group of small low isles, Asiatic Archipelago, about 30 in. N. island of Waygiou, and about 100 m N. by W. the N.W, extremity of Papua, or New Guinea. They are about 20 in number, and arc fortified by an extensive reef, which projects around them to a distance of 2 or 3 m. The southernmost islands, extend ing nearly E. and W. about 15 m., are five in number; and the largest, called Aiou Baba, is about 3 m. long, having a considerable number of huts on its W. end, and is the fourth island from the E. It lies in about lat. 21 N.; Ion. 131E. (R.) The south-westernmost island of the group is detached a considerable distance from the others. The central and southernmost islands are uneven, and a little higher than the N.E. ones, which are low and flat. Several of them are inhabited, and they abound with excellent turtle. The N.W. island is in lat. 38 N.; Ion. 131 8 E. AIR (PoiKT OF), N. Wales, co. Flint, W. entrance of the river Dee, 19 m. E. Great Orme s Iliad; lat. 53 21 26" N. ; Ion. 3 19 14" W. There is here a round tower, striped red and white horizontally, having two fixed lights. AIRAINES, a tn. France, dep. Somme, Picardy, 16 m. W.N.W. Amiens. It is well built, and agreeably situated. The church, Notre Dame, is a somewhat remarkable structure. At one end of the town are the ruins of an ancient castle. Manufactures: sailcloth, sacking, soap, rapeseed oil, for which there are 20 mills ; cloth, thread, flax, leather, &c. Pop. 2080. AIRARA, a small river, kingdom of Shoa, Abyssinia. After being joined by the Umptoo, and other streams., it runs into the Casam, which falls into the Ilawash. AIRASCA [anc. 7rio], a tn Piedmont, Sardinian States, 6 m. E. Pignerol. Pop. 1900. AIRDLE, or AKDLE, a small river, Scotland, co. Perth, having a course of about 13 m. ; it passes through a strath or valley of the same name, anciently famous as a resort of the wild boar. A1RDRIE, a large and thriving tn. Scotland, co. Lanark, Middle Ward; partly on a gentle acclivity, having a W. ex posure, and partly on the slope and summit of a more abrupt elevation, 11 m. E. Glasgow, and 32 W. Edinburgh, the highroad between these two cities intersecting it from E. to W., and forming its principal street. The other streets, many j of which are spacious, mostly run at right angles, and are all | well paved and lighted. The houses generally, without having much external pretension, have a respectable and comfortable appearance ; and the shops, though not particularly gay or ostentatious, are well stocked, and exhibit many of the more substantial manifestations of prosperity. The town is now amply supplied with water by a recently formed water com pany. The principal public buildings are the townhall, a handsome edifice, surmounted by a fine spire ; the National Bank, and Bank of Scotland. There are a number of churches, including two belonging to the Establishment ; three to the Free church; two United Presbyterian; one Reformed Pres byterian ; one Baptist ; one Methodist ; one Independent ; and one R. catholic, besides one or two others. Many of these churches are very handsome structures. A mechanics insti tute and library have existed in the town for several years; and a commodious academy has recently been built. There are here a large cotton-spinning and weaving factory, several I extensive foundries and machine shops, a distillery, a brewery, I and a tan work, all in active operation ; handloom weaving is j also carried on to a great extent. But Airdrie owes its pros- | perity chiefly to the extensive operations connected with the [ coal and iron trade in its vicinity, being situated in the centre I of the richest mining district in Scotland. Its progress has, in consequence, been unprecedented. In 1831 its population ! amounted only to 5594: in 1841 it had increased to 12,39G; AIEB and, in 1849, it was estimated at upwards of 16,000. The civic affairs of the town are administered by a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, and seven councillors. A regular police force has been established for several years. Courts for criminal business are held by the magistrates every Monday; besides which, there are weekly courts held by the sheriff- substitute on Fridays, and by the justices on Thursdays. Airdrie unites with Hamilton, Falkirk, Lanark, and Linlith- gow, in returning a member to the House of Commons. AIRE, a river, England, rises in the moors near Malham, AV. Riding, Yorkshire. It runs about 1 m. underground, pursues a S.E. course to Leeds, from which town it is navi gable. At Castleford it is joined by the Calder, and finally falls into the Ouse, 3 ni. S.AV. Howden, in the E. Hiding. It derives its chief importance, from the number of canals with which it is connected. A IRE, or AYKE (POINT OF), Isle of Man, the most northerly point of the island; lat. 54 25 N.; Ion. 4 22 W. There is a handsome lighthouse on this point, v> ith a single revolving light, bright and red alternately, 106 ft. above the level of the sea. AIRE-SUR-L ADOUR, an anc. tn. France, dep. Landes; situated in an agreeable and fertile country, on the slope of a hill on the left bank of the Adour, 16 m. S.E. St. Sever. It is well built, and the streets are regular. It contains a college and cathedral, and has tanneries, and a hat manu factory. Pop. 4667. A1RE-SUR-LA-LYS, a tn. France, dep. Pas de Calais; on the Lys, at its junction with the Laquette, about 10 m. S.E. St. Omer, with which it communicates. The town is neat, and well paved, adorned with several beautiful fountains, but situated in a low marshy soil. The church of St. Paul is a handsome Gothic edifice. There is here an extensive barracks, capable of containing 6000 men Trade in linens, fustians, hats, thread, starch, osier work, grain, &c. ; Dutch tiles and soap are also made here. Pop. 9591. AIRLIE, a par. Scotland, co. Forfar, lying in the great Strathmore valley, and giving the title of Earl to the Ogilvies, whose ancient seat, the Bonnie House of Airlie, was de stroyed by Argyle in 1640. Pop. in 1851, 856. AIROLA, a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, district of, and 9 m. N. from Nola, and 18 m. S.E. Capua; in a fertile plain, surrounded by mountains, and enjoying a salubrious climate. It has six churches, and several convents. Pop. 4634. AIROLO [German, Eriels], a vil. Switzerland, canton of, and near the left bank of the river Tessin, on the S. slope of Mount St. Gothard, about 3800 ft. above the sea, on the great route into Italy; 24 m. N.N.AV. Locarno, and 28 in. S. Altorf. It has some good slated stone houses, an hospital, and a church. Garnets are found in the neighbouring valleys. The union of various lines of road here, renders it a place of considerable transit trade. The language of the inhabitants, both of town and district, is Italian. Near this village the French were defeated by the Russians, after a sanguinary battle, fought Sept. 13, 1799. Pop. 1880. AIRTH, avil.and par. Scotland, co. Stirling; area, 16,400 ac.; extends along the Frith of Forth 6 m., breadth about 3 m. P. (1841), 1498, of which the vil. contained 583; (1851), 1319. AIRTHREY, or AnmmiE. See BRIDGE OF ALLAN. AIRVAULT [Latin, Aurea Vallis], a tn. France, dep. Deux Sevres, 29 m. N. Poitiers, upon the right bank of the Thouet. It is well built, with a fountain in the centre of the principal street, and a beautiful Gothic church. Here are the ruins of an old castle, and of a monastery, destroyed during the religious wars of the 17th century. The inhabitants have a trade in wine, grain, flax, hemp, clocks, brandy, and wool ; manufactures of cloth and serges, tanneries, &c. Pop. 1957. AISNE [anc. Axona], a considerable river of France, which gives its name to a department. It rises near the vil. of Beaulieu, in the basin of the Meuse, and, after a course of above 150 m., first to the N. by AV., and then to the AV. by S., falls into the Oise, about 1 m. above Compeigne. It becomes navigable from Chateau-Porcien. AISNE, a dep., N.E. France, so called from the river of the same name, cap. Laon. It is formed of portions of the ancient provs. of Picardy and the Isle of France ; bounded, N. by the dep. du Nord, and the Belgian prov. of Hainaut; E. by the deps. of the Ardennes and Marne ; S. by that of the 53 A1X Seine et-Marne ; and AV. by those of Oise and Somme ; area, 1,486,124 ac., or 2322 sq.m. Acres. Under cultivation . ... 988,000 Meadow laud 105,142 Vineyards 22,418 Heath and Moorland 28,207 Forests . 235,728 The surface, in general, consists of undulating plains, inter sected in the N. by low hills and A T ales ; in the central and S. parts, the summits of the hills seldom rise to more than 500 ft. above the level of the sea. The soil is for the most part calcareous, except in the N. districts, where it is clayey, and in some parts slatey. In the S., chalk is found, and, in other parts, freestone, slates, turf, &c. The elevated table lands are the most fertile. AVheat, rye, maslin, potatoes, hops, flax, hemp, and beetroot are among the chief agricultural produce. Two-thirds of the harvest are exported, and, compared with its extent, more oxen, horses, and sheep, are reared, than in most of the other departments. The breeding of merinoes is carefully attended to ; and the annual amount of wool is cal culated at more than two millions of pounds. The cheese made in this district is of excellent quality. Beetroot sugars, and leeches, are also exported. These last are got in the lakes, of which there are 80, covering more than 2470 ac. of laud. The oil made from the beechmast yields, in some years, as much as 20,000. The vine is not cultivated to any great extent except in the arrondissements of Laon, Soissons, and Chateau-Thierry. The manufactures of this department are very important. They consist of cotton at Guise, on the Oise ; linens, cottons, laces, lawns, cachmere imitation shawls, soap, and vitriol at St. Quentin ; glass at Nouvion ; champagne bottles ; and mirrors. The department is subdivided into 5 civil, and 7 electoral, arrondissements, 37 cantons, and 840 com munes. Besides the cap., the principal towns are Soissons, Chateau-Thierry, Vervins, and La Ferte Milon, the birthplace of Racine. The river Oise in the N., the Aisne in the centre, and the Marne in the S., with their tributaries, water the de partment. Several canals traverse it ; and the great roads from Paris to Lille, and from Paris to Mons, with other public routes, p;.ss through it. Pop. of dep., 557,422. (JVmA Official Tails.) AISTHOKPE, or EAST THORPE, a par. England, co. of, and 6J m. N.AV. from Lincoln; 1150 ac. Pop. in 1841, 82. AITUTAKI, or WHYTOOTACKIE, an isl. in the S. Pacific Ocean, one of Cook s group; lat. 18 54 S. ; Ion. 159 32 AV. (R.) It is about 9 m. in length, and rises to the height of 360 ft. AIVALI, or KIDONIA, [anc. Hcracleia], a tn. of Asiatic Turkey, sanjak Karasi, on the promontory forming the W. side of the Gulf of Adramyti, 66 m. N. by AV. Smyrna ; lat. 39 18 N.; Ion. 26 42 E. In the beginning of the present century it was a place of considerable note, possessing a col lege and library, two hospitals, and extensive manufactories of soap, numerous oilmills and tanneries. But, in June 1821, during a contest between the Greeks and Turks, it was set on fire by the latter, and reduced to ashes. It is said to be reviving. AIX [anc. Aquae Scxtice], an anc. city of France, dep. Bouches-du-Rhone, chief place of arrond., agreeably situated near the river Arc, in a plain surrounded by fertile hills, 18 m. N. Marseilles. The town was greatly embellished by Louis XIV. Most of the modern streets are broad and well paved, but those of the old town are narrow and dirty. The houses, in general, are well built, and the public buildings handsome. A principal street, called the Cours, or pro menade of Orbitelle, is bordered with elegant houses, planted with avenues of trees, and adorned with public fountains, one of which has a statue, by David, of le Bon Boi Rene. In the centre of the market place is another public fountain ; and near it a curious clock tower, erected in the Middle Ages, the internal machinery of which puts in motion some antique figures when the clock strikes. In the old town, the feudal walls and gates of which are still standing, is the ancient cathedral of St. Sauveur. Amongst the chief ornaments of Aix are the baptistery, constructed with the remains of a Roman temple, and the carved wooden doors, executed in 1503, which are curious specimens of the state of art at the commencement of the 1 6th century. The townhall, situated in a narrow street, is an elegant edifice, and contains a large collection of anti- ATX-LA-CHAPELLE ..I AlX-LA-CHArELLE quitics. The Palais, a very old building, which occupies one side of a fine square, called The Place des Precheurs, 1 has several large halls, in one of which the parliaments of Provence formerly assembled. Before the first French Revo lution, this city had a university, founded in 1409, by Pope Alexander V., and several richly-endowed ecclesiastical estab lishments. It is the seat of an archbishop ; a royal court of I appeals for the departments of the Basses- Alpes, the Var, and the Bouehes-du-Rhune ; a chamber of commerce ; a school of i theology and jurisprudence ; a royal academy; a library,! having not less than 100,000 volumes ; and a museum. Its j literary and scientific institutions, with its facilities for study, j have acquired for it the title of the Athens of the S. of France. There are two public hospitals, and one lunatic asylum in Aix, also a theatre. There are in the town several manufactories of silk and velvet stuffs; also of hard ware, linen, printed calicoes, and woollen cloth. On the hills around are almond groves, and plantations of olives, which furnish the much-esteemed sweet oil of Aix, the best produced in France ; the trade in which, however, began to decline j after the destruction of a large portion of the olive trees in 1788. and has greatly fallen off since 1830, when an unusually severe frost killed many more. Among the articles in which the commerce has much increased within the present century, are grain, almonds, plums, raisins, figs, brandy, wine, vermi celli, and fish. The celebrated tepid mineral springs of Aix were known to the Romans, but they were for a long time disused. In 1704 they were again discovered, and identified by the medals and inscriptions dug up; but they are in less repute than formerly. The water is clear, light, and | moderately warm, without much taste or smell. The bath ; house belongs to the hospitals. Aix is the birthplace of | Tournefort, Vanloo, and Adanson. Pop. in 1846, 27,280. AIX, or AIX-LES-BAINS, a tn. Sardinian states, Savoy Pro- J per, 8 m. N. Chamberry, near the Lake Bourget, in a fertile I valley, through which a long avenue of poplars leads to the lake. Aix is celebrated for its hot aluminous and sulphur ous springs, which annually attract a number of strangers. The waters were in repute with the ancients, by whom they were called Aquce Gratiancc, because the proconsul Domitius repaired them in the reign of the Emperor Gratian. There still remain some ruins of a triumphal arch, and of a temple of Diana. Pop. 2882. AIX (!LE D ), or ILE D Ez, a small isl. on the coast of France, dep. Charente-Inferieure, in the Bay of Biscay, lying between the isl. of Oleron and Rochefort on the mainland, about 5 m. off the shore, opposite the mouth of the Charente, and separated from Rochelle and Breton by the Basque roads ; lat. 46 36" N. ; Ion. 1 1 30" W. (R.) It has a strong mili tary fort, and batteries, to defend the entrance of the roads ,* and a village containing 256 inhabitants, the greater part fishers. There is a lighthouse on the island. Pop. about 400 to 500. Aix is also the name of a small river in France, dep. Loire Inferieure, which, after joining the Ysable, falls into the Loire. AIX D AXGILLON, a tn. France, dep. Cher, 1 2 m. N.E. Bourges, formerly known under the name of the fortress | of Gillon. It has two fairs in the year, at which a great ! number of cattle and horses, asses and swine, are sold. Pop. 1426. AIXE, a small tn. France, dep. Ilaute-Vicnne, 7 m. S. W. Limoges, on the Vienne river. There are here manufactories of bandboxes, nails, bricks, and tiles. Pop. 2631. AIX-EN-OTHE, a small tn. France,*dep. Aube, 15 m. W.S. W. Troyes ; has a cotton factory, a tannery, and hat and tile works, and some trade in grain, wool, and cattle. Pop. 1997. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE [The waters of the chapel ; Ger man, AacJicn; Latin, Aytiisgranwri], an anc. and celebrated city of W. Germany, prov. Lower Rhine, cap. district of same name; 38 m. W. by S. Cologne, 80 m. S.E. Brussels, and 185 m. N.E. Paris; lat. 50 46 34" N.; Ion. 6 4 40" E. (L.) It is pleasantly situated about 500 ft. above the sea j level, in a rich valley, watered by the Wurm, and surrounded by the Veen hills. The city, enclosed within ramparts, which serve as promenades, is divided into the inner and the outer towns; the streets are well built, particularly that called New Street. It contains three monasteries, and 18 churches ; a handsome theatre ; a public library, of 1 0,000 volumes ; a gymnasium, or higher grammar school ; three hospitals ; and other charitable institutions. In the townhall, in the market place, is the coronation room, adorned with the portraits of the German Emperors, and many precious relics of old German art ; together with half-size portraits of Napoleon and the Empress Josephine, painted by David, and presented by the Emperor to the town. The market place itself is adorned with a beautiful fountain, surmounted by a bronze statue of Charlemagne. As the chief station of the Belgo-Rhenish Railway, con necting with Antwerp, Ostend, and Cologne, Aix-la-Chapelle affords an extensive mart to the commerce of Prussia, and is, besides, the seat of commercial and factory courts. It was formerly eminent as a manufacturing city, especially of cloth and needles ; and its prosperity in this respect seems of late to be reviving. Its woollen cloths are highly esteemed on the continent of Europe. In 1846, there were 2362 hand, and eight power looms, employed in this manufacture; 62 spinning factories, with 62,699 spindles for carded, and seven mills, with 6570 spindles, for combed wool. It is estimated that about 3000 of the inhabitants are engaged in making the cloth, while more than 12,000 in the town and neighbourhood are occupied in preparing the wool. Carpets, needles, waxcloth, leather, watches, soap, and sal-ammonia, are also manufactured to a considerable extent. There is, likewise, a pretty large wholesale wine trade. Although, however, presenting, in its numerous chimney stalks, an appearance of being an extensive seat of manufactures, and having considerable commercial relations with France and Belgium, Aix-la-Chapelle derives its celebrity chiefly from its historical associations ; and its importance and prosperity, principally from the influx of visitors to its baths, of the former of whom there are annually from 7000 to 8000. There are, in all, eight mineral springs here, six of them warm. The most famous is the imperial spring, or Source de VEmpercur, which has a temperature of 143 Fah., and the vapour of which, when confined, deposits sulphur. For the accommodation of strangers, there are eight bathing houses. The rooms for bathing are excellently fitted up, with baths from 4 to 5 .ft. deep, built in massive stone, and in the old Roman style. Outside the walls is Lousberg, rising nearly 300 ft. higher than the city. It is a favourite summer evening resort of the denizens of Aix-la-Chapelle, where they can regale their eyes with a magnificent view of the surrounding country, their ears with fine music, and their stomachic cravings with all luxurious delights. During the Middle Ages, it was a free imperial city, and its citizens, throughout the empire, were exempt from feudal ser vice, from attachment of their goods and persons, and from all tolls and taxes. Charlemagne raised it to the rank of second city in his empire, and made it the capital of all his dominions N. of the Alps. It became his favourite residence after 768. and he spared no expense in beautifying it. Till the dissolu tion of the Germanic empire, the coronation of the Emperors of Germany, by right, was celebrated here, though, in some } instances, this ceremony was performed at Frankfort. The j imperial insignia were preserved here till 1795, when they were carried to Vienna. In the cathedral, a large flat slab of marble marks the tomb of Charlemagne. In 997, Otho III. ordered it to be opened, when the body of the Emperor was found in good preservation. The church of the Franciscans contains a splendid Descent from the Cross, by Rubens, which was carried to Paris, but brought back on the fall of Napoleon. By the treaty of Luncville, concluded Feb. 9, 1801, which separated the left bank of the Rhine from Germany, the city was transferred to France, and remained the chief town of the French department of the Roer, till 1814, when it was restored to Prussia. A peculiar historical interest attaches to this city, as the place where several important congresses have been held. Two famous treaties of peace have been concluded here ; the one, May 2, 1668, between France and Spain, putting an end to the war of devolution, carried on by Louis XIV., for the possession of a great portion of the Spanish Netherlands, which he claimed in right of his Queen ; and the other, October 2, 1748, between the principal sovereigns of Europe, termin ating the war of the Austrian succession. Here, too, was held the celebrated congress of 1818, its object and result being the withdrawal of the allied troops from France. The AIZENAI AJMEER names of several of the streets, such as Alexander Street, after I Principato Ultra, district of, and 2 m. S.E. from Avcllino. the Emperor of Russia ; Francis Street, after the Emperor of canton Solofra pop. 1490; and the third in the prov. of Austria ; and Wellington Street, were given in consequence of | Principato Citra, district of, and 3 m. N.E. from Salerno, this congress. Pop. in 1842, including Burtscheid, which canton of Baronisi. may he considered a suburb, 49,698. The DISTRICT, or I AJETA, a tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Citra, district Paola, governmental circle (Eegierungs-bezirk) of Aix-la-Chapelle, i 14m. N. Umhriatico; upon a hill. Pop. 3490. or Aachen, as it ought more properly to be styled, lies in the prov. of the Lower Rhine, bounded, N. by the district of Diis- seldorf, E. by Cologne and Coblentz, S. by Treves and the grand duchy of Luxemburg, and W. by Belgium and Hol land. It has an area of 1200 geo. sq. m., and is watered by the Roer and the Wurm, which fall into the Maas; and by the Kill and the Our, which fall into the Moselle. The S. part of the district is hilly and moorish; towards the N., it is rich and fertile. In the S.E., the people are mainly employed in mining ; in the S.W., especially at Malmedy, St. Vith, and AJMEER or EAJPOOTANA, a prov. Hindoostan, situated between lat. 24 and 31 N., and bounded, N. by Mooltan, Lahore, and Delhi; E. by Delhi and Agra; S. by Goojcrat and Malwa; and W. by Mooltan and Sinde. Length 350 m., average breadth, 200. A great portion of the surface is desert, and part of it wholly destitute of inhabitants, water, and vegetation. In the S., it is watered by and is consequently more fertile. The whole of the soil remarkably saline, containing many salt springs and salt lakes, and the water of a large portion of the wells is brackish. In Eupen, in leather making ; in the N., in agriculture ; and in j many places, it is covered with the cactus, and other thorny the centre, in cattle rearing, and in various kinds of manufac- j plants ; but, except in the hilly parts, the province is almost tures, more especially of iron, hardware, and woollen goods. There are 523 elementary schools in the district, attended by 63,237 pupils ; and attending other schools there is a further number of 1391, giving a total of 64,628 children attending all descriptions of schools, being 18 73 per cent, of the children between six and 14 years of age. Pop. 380,000. AIZENAI, a tn. France, dep. Vende e, 8 m. N. Bourbon- Vendee, in the commune of Poire. Pop. 3519. AJACCIO, or A.TAZZO [Latin, Adjaeium}, a tn. France, cap. of the dep. and of the isl. of Corsica. It lies on the S. W. coast of the isl., on a tongue of land in a bay on the N. side of the Gulf of Ajaccio, surrounded by high mountains, which shelter it from the N. and E. winds : 60 m. S.W. Bastia, the former cap. of the isl. The principal streets are broad and straight, and the houses well built. It is the see of a bishop ; and has a cathedral, a communal college, a royal school of navigation, a public library of about 14,000 volumes, an agri cultural society, and a botanical garden, on property once be longing to the Bonaparte family, with many fine promenades. It is likewise the seat of a tribunal of primary jurisdiction, and one of commerce ; and a military place of the third class. Its harbour, the entrance to which is rendered unsafe by pro destitute of trees. On the N. W., some parts arc of hard clay, which sounds under the horses feet like a board, and is quite destitute of vegetation. The highest mountains are the Aravulli range, in which is the peak Abu (which see}. The inhabitants of Ajmeer are usually divided into two great tribes the Elm- tores, and the Chohan Seesodya Eajpoots. The common in habitants of the desert are Jauts ; the higher classes, Ehatores. They are described as handsome in person, hardy, and brave: but indolent, and much addicted to the use of opium. The stock of the country consists of bullocks and camels. The wild animals are the desert rat, whose undermining operations ren der the ground dangerous to horsemen ; the fox ; the antelope ; and the goorkhur, or wild ass, whose speed outstrips that of the fleetest horse. The villages are generally built of a coarse stone, brought from the neighbouring hills, the huts of the desert being composed of straw. The three great divisions of Ajmeer are, S., Oderpoor or Marwur ; W. and N., Joodpoor or Marwar; and E. and N., Jeypoor, Jyengaur, or Ambher, all three names being applied to it. Ajmeer was never thoroughly subdued under any of the great dynasties that prevailed in India. In 1193, it was overrun by Mohammed, the first Gauride sovereign, and continued tributary to Delhi till 1748, jectiug rocks, is secure and commodious, though exposed to the when its numerous chiefs and princes, always of a rebellious winds from the \V. The town and bay are defended by a cita- j character, assumed total independence. In the course of the del. The bay, which is one of the finest in Corsica, is bounded present century, it was brought under British sway, with by Cape Sanguinario on the N., and by Cape Muro on the S. manifest advantage to the district and people; large numbers An intermittent light is established on the summit of Sangui- I of whom, leaving their fastnesses, came to resume their aban- nario Island, in lat. 41 52 50" N.; Ion. 8 35 50" E. The doned abodes, as soon as peace and tranquillity were assured lighthouse is 52 ft. high, and the light stands 321 ft. above the level of the sea, and may be seen from a distance of 20 m. The principal trade is in olive oil, wine, grain, oranges, citrons, and other fruit ; and in coral, the fishing of which, together with that of anchovies, is prosecuted to a considerable extent on the coasts, and particularly in the Straits of Bonifacio. i Ajaccio is famous as the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte, vho was born here on August 15, 1769. The register of ! Napoleon s baptism is to be seen in the parish books. The house in which he was born, now inhabited by his mother s relations, of the name of Eamolini, and still one of the best houses in Ajaccio, forms one side of a little square, planted at the four angles with four acacias. The room in which he first drew breath is dark, having only one window. The Melelli olive gardens in the neighbourhood, formerly the pro perty of the Bonapartes, was a favourite resort of Napoleon, in his young days. Pop. in 1846, 11,541. A JAN, a coast and country of E. Africa to them by British influence. AJMEER, or AJMEEE, a city, Hindoostan, formerly cap. of the prov. of the same name, is 540 m. N. by E. Bom bay ; lat. 26 20 N.; Ion. 74 40 E. It is a place of some antiquity, and, during the reign of Jehangeer, was occasionally the residence of the court. In 1616, that Emperor was visited at Ajmeer by the English ambassador, Sir Thomas Eoe, and, about the same period, a factory was established in the city by the East India Company. In 1818, it was ceded to the British by Dowlet Eow Sindia, and, in consequence of a long period of war and anarchy, M r as then in a most ruinous state. In the course, however, of five years of peace and regulai government, it had risen from its ruins, and has gradually become one of the handsomest cities in British India streets, squares, and bazaars, rising in it daily ; while a general uni formity of plan has been maintained throughout. It has now, also, become the place of residence of many merchants of tin about lat. 9 N.; first consequence in Marwar. It lies at the foot of a consider- lon. 50 E. It is little known ; soil generally flat and sandy ; j able hill, the rocks, trees, and brushwood behind forming a and is said to possess a valuable breed of horses, which are picturesque background. On the summit of the hill stands bought up in great numbers by foreign merchants. AJEHO, a tn. of the Chinese empire, territory of Manchuria, 120 m. N. Kirin, and 75 m. W. Soongari. It is of recent formation, and is inhabited solely by immigrants from China. It is governed by a mandarin of the second order, who has several Christian families within his jurisdiction. a fortress, named Taraghur, nearly 2 m. in circumference, with bastions, bomb-proofs, storehouses, tanks, and cisterns. It is capable of containing 1200 men, but is now fast going to decay. A fane, or temple, within the fortress, is one of the most ancient and entire monuments of Hindoo architecture. The old palace and gardens of Shah Jehan are still in exist- The population amounts to 60,000, and is daily increasing. ! ence, the former being partly habitable. The most remark - AJELLO, a tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Citra, district of able object connected with Ajmeer, is the tomb of Khoja Paola, 10 m. S.W. Cosenza. It is built on a rock, and has Mayen ud Deer, a renowned Mahometan saint, to which a fortified castle, said to be ancient Tilcsium. Pop. 3860. I many pilgrimages are made by the devout Mussulmans. In There are three other towns of the same name in Naples ; one a valley just above the city, the Emperors of Delhi formed, in the prov. of Abruzzo Ultra II., district of. and 21 m. S.E. from Aquila, near the Lake Fucino ; another in the prov. of by means of strong embankments, a fine lake, which, during the rainy season, is 6 m. in circumference. The place is AJOFEIN AKASSA also celebrated for its gardens and vineyards, tlie grapes produced being the largest and best in India. Pop. about 25,000. (Hamilton s East India Gazetteer; Hcber s Journal; Historical and Descriptive Account of British India; Martin s East Indies.) AJOFRIN, a tn. Spain, New Castile, prov. of, and 9 m. S. from Toledo. It stands on a plain, and comprises about 30 well-built streets, and three squares, with a church, chapter house, courthouse, two hospitals, five schools, and a decayed old prison. The inhabitants are engaged in agriculture, in weaving coarse cloths and serges, and also in roperies, and matting factories. Some sheep and mules arc pastured in the surrounding country. Pop. 2883. AJURUOCA, a tn. Brazil, prov. Minns Geraes, on the Ajuruoca river, here crossed by a bridge, 179 m. S.W. Ouro Preto, and 117 N.E. Rio de Janeiro. It lies in a fertile country, at the foot of the Mantiqueira ridge of hills, and has a church, prison, and townhouse. The soil of its environs, once auriferous, has long been exhausted of the precious metals, and the inhabitants have consequently turned their attention to the more profitable pursuits of agriculture, and rearing swine for the Rio de Janeiro market. The district is rich in tobacco, millet, mandioca, sugar cane, and coffee, and, with the town, contains a pop. of 12,000. (Die. Geo. Imp. Brazil.) AKABAH (GULF, CASTLE, and VILLAGE of), in Arabia, an arm of the Red Sea, on the E. side of the peninsula of Mount Sinai, which separates it from the Gulf of Suez. It extends nearly 100 m. in a straight direction N.N.E., being in general about 9 or 10 m. wide, and, where broadest, 16 or 17 m. It has the appearance of a deep narrow ravine ; the circumjacent hills rising, in some places, 2000 to 2500 ft. perpendicularly from the shore ; the varied hues of the granite rocks, bathed in sunlight, presenting a spectacle of wild magnificence. The gulf has in some places a depth of 200 fathoms, and, in some parts, is unfathomable ; the flow of its water is gentle and equable, though at times strong, from the violence -of the winds. At its S. extremity it communicates with the Red Sea, by channels on each side of the island of Tiran ; one of which, that between the latter and Ras Furtak, being about 1 m. wide at its narrowest part. From Ras Mohammed, further to the S. than the Strait of Tiran, to Akabah, the gulf consists of a succession of bays, bounded by rocky headlands. It is subject to boisterous winds, and dangerous and sudden swells, and is, in many parts, obstructed with hidden shoals and coral reefs, which render the navigation peculiarly unsafe. By the ancients it was styled Sinus Elanaticus, from the port of Elana, at its N. extremity. (See AILAH.) On the E. side of the gulf, is the CASTLE of AKABAH, from which the former takes its name ; lat. 29 30 58" N ; Ion. 35 53" E. (L.J It is an oblong quadrangle of high thick walls, with a tower or AKABAH ENTRANCE TO THE FORTRESS. JP.om Lalwrde. VoyaKC dc I Arabie Putree. bastion at each of the four corners. All around the walls, on the inside, is a row of chambers, or magazines, one story high, with a solid flat roof, forming a platform round the interior of the castle. On this platform are erected, in several parts, temporary huts, or chambers, covered with the stalks of palm leaves, and occupied by the garrison apparently as a dwelling. (Robinson.) It is a place of no strength, presided over by a Turkish governor, and garrisoned by some 30 or 40 Egyptian soldiers. It is said to be infested with scorpions, for the destruction of which a numerous staff of cats is maintained. This fortress, like some others, was built for the protection of the pilgrim caravans on their way from Cairo to Mecca. Government .stores are here kept for their supply. The VILLAGE of Akabah is situated at the N. extremity of the gulf, and is supposed to be the E:don-yeber of the Old Testa- | mcnt. It is now remarkable only for its date groves, some : of which are 1 in. in length. Water is plentiful and good ; fruits and vegetables abound. The name Akabah, signifying a mountain pass, or steep declivity, is derived from the long and difficult descent of the pilgrim route, from the mountains in the neighbourhood of the village, called by Edrisi ATcabal Ailah. There is another Akala, a day s distance from the above, called Akaba Essliamic, or the Syrian Akaba. It lies in the great pilgrim route from Damascus to Mecca, and, like the Egyptian Akaba, appears to take its name from a steep acclivity. AKALZIK, AKIIALZIK, or AKI^KA, a tn. Russian Ar menia, district of same name, 110 m. W. Tiflis, 125 m. N.E. Erzeroom; lat. 41 35 N.; Ion. 42 45 E.; on the left bank of the Dalka, 10 m. N.W. from its junction with the Kur. It is without walls, but defended by a strong citadel, built on a rock, which, when it belonged to Turkey, baffled all the attempts of the Russians to reduce it. Akalzik is the seat of a Greek archbishop, and contains two Christian churches, a Jews synagogue, and several mosques ; one of which, that of Sultan Ahmed, is built on the model of St. Sophia at Constantinople, and has a college and library attached to it. The latter was accounted one of the most curious in the East ; but the Russians have removed about 300 of the most valuable works to St. Petersburg!!. The neighbourhood produces silk, honey, and wax, with excellent fruits, raisins, peaches, apricots, and figs. Some manufac tures are carried on, and the inhabitants prosecute an active trade with various places on the Black Sea. Formerly a large slave market was held here ; but it has been suppressed by the Russians, since they acquired possession of the town. In the vicinity are some alkaline springs. Population (1850), 12,060, which includes Armenians, Georgians, Turks, Rus sians, and Jews. The former Turkish pashalic of Aklialzik or Tchddir, as named by the Turks, forms now a political and administrative subdivision of Russian Armenia. It is a mountainous country, watered by the Kur. From the elevation of the country, the winters are long and rigorous ; while the heat in summer is | equally intense. The climate, however, is healthy, the air j pure, and the soil fertile ; but the sudden changes of the ; seasons are unfavourable to cultivation ; maize, barley, tobacco, flax, and cotton are among the ordinary produce, while excellent fruits grow without much culture. The inhabitants raise cattle and sheep in considerable numbers, particularly the latter, and pay great attention to the breeding of bees and silkworms. Game is abundant. Some woollen, cotton, and silk stuffs are fabricated ; and the exports consist I chiefly of cattle, hides, tallow, honey, and wax. The territory j is one of the last conquests of Russia from Turkey. Pop estimated at 70,000 Georgians, Turks, Armenians, and Jews. AKARAO, a harbour or inlet in the isl. of New Mun- ster, New Zealand, in Bank s Peninsula, having Heroine Head on the N.E., and Iron Head on the S. ; lat. 43 54 S. ; Ion. 173 1 E. (K.) The harbour stretches N. into the land for about 1 m., with an average breadth of about 2m. A settlement was formed here by the French in 1840; and a French frigate was, in 1846, constantly on the station for the protection of the settlers, who are few in number, not amount ing to 100. They live peaceably under British laws, and employ themselves wholly in agriculture, and in cultivating gardens for their own support. The harbour of Akarao is said to be a very fine one. AKASSA, a tn. or vil., \V. Africa, on the banks, and near the mouth of the Rio Nun. The huts of which it is composed are of a quadrangular form, and are built of bamboo, and roofed with palm leaves ; they are mostly of two compart ments, communicating with each other. The bcdplaces are flat narrow boards, raised about 18 inches on four stones. The native males are well made and active, and occupy them selves in fishing, and the culture of small plantations of cas- AKELY B7 AKOWAAY sada, Indian corn, and bananas. They barter palm oil for tobacco and spirituous liquors, of which they are excessively fond. Pop. about 200. AKASSA is also the name of a river of N.W. Africa, which flows along part of the N. border of the Sahara, and S. boundary of Morocco, and falls into the Atlantic about 30 m. S.W. from Cape Non; lat. 28 15 N. (Allen s Niger Expedition.} AKELY, or OAKLEY-CUM-STOCKHOLT, a par. England, co. Bucks ; area, 1080 ac. ; 2 m. N.E. Buckingham ; 7 ac. of this par. divided between poor families and widows. Pop. in 1841, 362. AKENIIAM, a par. England, co. Suffolk, 3 m. N. by \V. Ipswich; area, 1060 ac. Pop. in 1841, 117. AKEREIT, a large vil. in Kurdistan, 35 m. N.E. by E. Mosul; lat. 36 40 N.; Ion. 43 40 E. It consists of about 500 houses surrounded by gardens, and is protected by a strong castle, situated on the summit of a rock which over looks the village. (Col. Shiel s Journey through Kurdistan, and accompanying Map, London Geo. Joiir., vol. viii.) AKERM ANN fane. Tyras] , a seaport tn. Russia in Europe, prov. Bessarabia, near the mouth of the Dniestr in the Black Sea ; lat. 46 11 51" N. ; Ion. 30 21 51" E. (L.) It is ill built and dirty. It contains some mosques and Greek churches. The port is good, and is commanded by an old dilapidated citadel, which, when the town was under Ottoman sway, contained a strong garrison. Some defences still remain. The vicinity pro duces fine grapes, from which excellent wine is made. Large quantities of salt are made from extensive saline lakes in the 7ieighbourhood. The site of Akermann is believed to have been included in the Roman colony of Julia Alba, A treaty was signed here, Oct. 6, 1826, between Russia and the Porte, by which Moldavia, Wallachia, and Servia, were made depend encies of Russia, and passed from under the protection of Turkey. Pop. (1849), 16,076; chiefly Greeks, Jews, and Armenians. AKHALKIIALAK, or ACHALKALAKI, a tn. Armenia, belonging to Russia, on the W. border of Georgia, district of, and 35 m. S.E. by E. from Akalzik, and 80 m. W.S.W. Tiflis ; on an affluent of the Kour (anc. Cyrus) ; lat. 41 20 N. ; Ion. 43 20 E. In the Middle Ages, this was one of the most considerable cities of Armenia. There is another town of the same name in Georgia, 10 m. S.S.E. Gori, and 30 m. N.W. Tiflis ; lat. 41 52 N. ; Ion. 44 22 E. AKHALZIKH, a tn. Asiatic Russia. See AKALZIK. AK-1IISSAK [White castle], or ACSA, a tn. Asiatic Turkey, pash. Anadolia, 56 m. N.E. Smyrna, on the Kodos, in the valley of the Hyllus ; lat. 38 55 N. ; Ion. 27 55 E. It consists of about 2000 houses, and several hundred huts for the poorer population ; and contains nine mosques and one Greek church. About 300 of the houses are inhabited by Greeks, 30 by Armenians, and the rest by Turks. This town has been long noted for the skill of its dyers, and still main tains its reputation in that art; large quantities of scarlet cloth being sent weekly to Smyrna. Ak-IIissar teems with relics of a former city, although there is no trace of the site of any ruin or early building. These relics comprise frag ments of carved stone so abundant, that, in many places, the streets of the modern town are paved with them ; while, for a distance of 2 m., the wells are formed of Corinthian pillars, the bucket being drawn through holes cut in the centre. Here stood the ancient Thyatira, the seat of one of the seven churches of Asia. Pop. about 5000 ; of which nearly one-sixth are Greeks. AKHLAT, a tn. Asiatic Turkey, on the N. shore of Lake Van, at the foot of the Nimrud-Tagh mountains, 30 m. N.E. Bitlis, or Bedlis. The environs abound in grapes and other fruits. It is, however, a poor place, though formerly the residence of the ancient kings of Armenia. The relics of the old city, with numerous other remains of antiquity, are at some distance from the present town, in a ravine. Akhlat is surrounded with a double wall and ditch ; it is further protected by towers and a citadel. The houses are built of square stones cemented by clay, similar to those of Bitlis. Number of households, about 1000. Probable pop. from 3000 to 4000. AKHMIN, or EKIIMIM, a tn. Upper Egypt, 15 m. N.W. Girgeh, on the right bank of the Nile, from which it is about j m. distant. It has a bazaar, and a market every Wednesday. Akhinin stands on the site of Chemmis. or VOL. I. Panopolis, formerly one of the most celebrated cities of the Thebai d. On the side of the town furthest from the river, beyond the present walls, are the remains of some of its ancient buildings. Fabrics of cotton are manufactured here. Pop. 10,000. AKHTIRKA, or AKURKA, a tn. Russia, gov. of, and about 60 m. N.W. from Kharkoff, or Kharkov, chief place of a district, and situated on a small river of the same name ; lat. 50 17 58" N.; Ion. 34 57 2" E. (L.) It is surrounded with ditches, and contains eight churches ; one of which is held in great veneration, from its containing an image of the Virgin. There is here a manufacture of light textile stuffs ; and, on the 9th of every May, a great market, or fair, is held. The environs are fertile ; and the orchards produce excellent plums and cherries. Akhtirka was founded by the Poles, in 1641. Pop. 13,500. AKI, a principality, Japan, in the W. portion of the isl. of Niphon, opposite that of Sikoko. It is divided into eight provinces ; is mountainous and woody ; the soil is poor, producing only some rice of an inferior quality, and a little grain. There are salt works on the coast ; and sponges are found upon the reefs which border it. AKIR, a vil. Syria, on the right bank of, and 3 m. N. from the Wes Surur; lat. 31 50 N.; Ion. 34 50 E. There is a river of the same name in the S. part of Syria ; lat. 28 54 N. ; Ion. 33 40 E. AKISKA. See AKALZIK. AKKA, a tn. Morocco, prov. Sooza, on the border of the Great Desert, on the caravan route from Morocco to Timbuc- too ; lat. 29 4 N. ; Ion. 8 30 W. It lies in the midst of a well-watered and well-cultivated territory, and forms a con venient halting place for caravans. It contains only about 200 houses, of which 50 are inhabited by Jews. AKKRUM, a vil. Holland, prov. Friesland, 8 m. N.W. Heerenveen, and 7 m. E. Sneek. It is a beautiful and pros perous place, lying on the left bank of the Boorn, on the highway between Heerenveen and Leeuwarden. It possesses a large Calvinistic and a Baptist church, a school, boat-building yards, anchor smithies, and a tannery. The inhabitants are employed in the rearing of cattle, in river traffic, and in trading, chiefly in butter and cheese. Pop. 1100. (Van der Aa s Nedcrlanden.) AKLANSK, a tn. and territory, Siberia, gov. Okhotsk, on the left bank of the Aklan, near the head of the Gulf of Penjinsk; lat. 61 45 N.; Ion. 162 30 E. It was founded in 1679; has some fortifications, constructed of wood, to protect it from the incursions of the Tchuktchi and Koriaks, and is guarded by a post of Cossacks. It is the place of barter with the nomadic tribes. The adjacent country is little cultivated. Pop. 2000. AKNUR. See AGNUR. AKORA, or AKARA, a tn. in Afghanistan, on the right bank of, and 3 m. from the Cabool river, and 27 m. E. by S. Peshawer ; lat. 34 3 N. ; Ion. 72 10 E. It was formerly a place of considerable importance, with a neat mosque and handsome bazaar, built of stone, but has been nearly laid in ruins by the Sikhs. AKOOSCHA, a territory and tn. Russia, prov. Daghes- tan. The former occupies the E. slope of the Caucasus, and is inhabited by a people called Lesghians, who speak a pecu liar dialect. They consist of about 18,000 families, dis tributed through 34 villages ; and are governed by a kind of federative republic, composed of 12 cantons. Each village has a chief of its own, who is always the oldest man in it. The people are employed partly in agriculture, and partly in rearing sheep ; but in the latter much more extensively than the former. The town, capital of the district, is situated on a high mount of the Caucasus, near the source of the Torkali, 55 m. W.N.W. Derbent. Pop. (1819), 3000. AKOWAAY, a tn. and independent settlement on the Guinea coast, situated on the N. side of a lake-like expanse of a lagoon, which extends, parallel with the sea, along the Bight of Benin, from the E. of Whydah to the river Volta. Akowaay lies on a rising ground, is shaded with fine trees, and is well built for a town in this part of Africa. Large cotton trees grow in the neighbourhood ; and the soil is good, and well suited for growing corn, manioc, gourds, and all sorts of vegetables. Pop. 7000 to 8000. (Duncan s Travels in Western Africa.) AKRABI AKYAB AKRAPJ, a small tribe, inhabiting a district of about 20 sq. m. on the S. W. coast of Arabia, near Aden. They are described, by Captain llaines, as a fine body of men, but addicted to war and rapine. The women are pretty, of a slight, elastic, healthful form, with great cheerfulness of manner. The chief produce of the tcrritoiy occupied by the Akrabi is millet, of which they export great quantities. They also raise large flocks of sheep and goats. AKRON, a small but flourishing tn., U States, Ohio, on the Ohio Canal, 30 m. from its junction with Lake Erie, and ! 105 m. E. Columbus. It carries on an active and extensive I trade; and contains a courthouse, a jail built of stone, five j churches belonging to various dissenting bodies, an academy, and six schools. Its manufactures comprise four fulling mills, five woollen factories, four flourmills, a powder mill, a grist and oilmill. There are two printing offices, and three weekly papers. Pop. 1665. AKSAI. 1, A river, Circassia, rising in the N.E. slopes of the Caucasus, about lat. 42 20 N. ; Ion. 43 52 E. It flows N.N.E., and falls into the Terek about 48 m. from where the latter joins the Caspian Sea, after a course of about 120 m. 2, A vil. on the right bank of the above river, 35 m. S.S.W. Kizliar, said to be frequented by slave-dealing Jews and Armenians. AK-SERAI [White palace], a tn. Asiatic Turkey, cap. of a sanjak of same name, prov. Kharidj, about 90 m. N.E. Konia ; lat. 38 35 X. ; Ion. 34 5 E. It lies in an open and well-cultivated valley, on the left bank of the S.W. Kizil Irmak. Ak-serai, under the Arabs, was a considerable and opu lent town, and now derives its chief interest from its numer ous Saracenic remains, some of which are of great beauty. It contains 810 houses, a few of which are occupied by Ar menians, the rest by Mahometans. The sanjak of Ak-serai occupies a large plain, inhabited chiefly by wandering Kurds and Turcomans, the former of predatory habits, the latter leading a quiet and pastoral life. The bead of the valley of the Beyaz-su is composed of level uplands, terminating in abrupt cliffs overhanging deep ravines, with shingly and sandy declivities, strewed with rocky detritus. AK-SHEHR [White town], a tn. Asiatic Turkey, pash. Kharidj, sanjak Ak-shehr, 70 m. N. W. Konia ; lat. 38 23 N.; Ion. 31 25 E. ; on an E. slope of the Sultan Dagh mountains, at the entrance into an extensive valley, watered by the river Kazma, which flows into the salt lake of Ain Gliiul, between 2 and 3 m. N. from the town. The houses rise in terraces, one above the other, or are dispersed amidst groves and gar dens. There is a carpet manufactory here, and a consider able trade. Antiquaries have hazarded the opinion, though unsupported by evidence, that more than one ancient city had occupied the site of Ak-shehr, or its immediate vicinity. Pop. 6500. AKSU, a small tn. Asiatic Turkey, pash. Anadolia, sanjak Khodavenkiar, 18 m. E. by S. Brusa, and about the same distance E. Mount Olympus. The high road from Kutaya to Brusa and Mondania the latter on the gulf of that name passes through it. AKSIIllS SK, a fortress, Siberia, gov. Irkutsk, right bank of the Onon, near the Chinese frontier, and 70 m. S.W. Doroninsk. It has some trade in minever and zibelline skins. AKSOU, AKSU, or OKSU, a district and large commercial and manufacturing tn. Little Bokhara, a prov. of China, in the N.W. part of that empire. The town is 310 m. N.E. by E Ka.shgar; lat. 41 N.; Ion. 79 7 E. ; and is situated in the valley of the Aksou, at the termination of a road leading across the Tian Shan mountains, to the province or district oi Ilf, with which it carries on an extensive trade. It is a flourishing place, being much resorted to by caravans from all parts, and being a convenient place of exchange for the merchants of Kussia, China, and Tartary. It is celebratet for its manufactures of cotton cloth and saddlery. The former is a peculiar fabric, called lias, and is unglazed; the latter is manufactured from deerskin, and is highly esteemed The saddles and bridles, in particular, are elaborately and beautifully embroidered, and otherwise ornamented, and are exported in great numbers to distant countries. The artizans of the place also work skilfully in precious stones, and execute jasper vases with much taste. On market days, the town is crowded with buyers and sellers, and presents a very lively and stirring appearance. There are here a Chinese custom house, and garrison of about 3000 men, the officers of which, however, are accountable to those at Ouchi, a large town about 70 m. W. Aksou. Aksou was formerly the residence of the kings of Kashgar and Yarkand. In 1716, it was nearly destroyed by an earth quake, and, in the beginning of the present century, suffered severely from an inundation, by which 3000 persons perished. The district is well watered by several mountain streams, and is very fertile, producing grain, fruits, vegetables, and cotton in abundance, and pasturing great, numbers of cattle and sheep. The inhabitants are industrious, generally in com- brtable circumstances, and are remarkable for their generosity nd hospitality, often ridiculing the niggardliness of the other Mahometans. A Chinese writer thus naively characterizes hem : Their manners are simple; they are neither cowards nor rogues, like the other Mahometans; they are fond of singing, drinking, and dancing, like those of KuclieV They ire said, however, to be, with all their good qualities, ex- remely irascible; and, when excited, apt to have recourse to violence. There is said to be a mine of rubies near Aksou, but not worked. Pop. of town, 20,000 ; of the entire district, considerably upwards of 100,000. AKSTAFA, a river and valley, Georgia. The river is an affluent of the Kur from the right, into which it falls, about 32 m. S.S.E. Tiflis. It rises about 15 m. N.W. the N. point of Lake Goksha, or Sdvan, and runs a generally N.E. course of about 50 m. The valley through which it flows is volcanic, and the villages in the valley are nearly all Armenian. Several of them have vineyards, and plantations of mulberries, but of no great extent. (Dubois de Montpereux s Voy. Autour du Caucase.} AKTEBOLT, a small haven of European Turkey, sanjak Kirklisch, on the S.W. coast of the Black Sea; lat. 42 4 N. ; Ion. 27 59 E. AKUN, an isl. and active volcano, of the Aleutian series; lat. 54 17 N.; Ion. 165 32 W. AKURKA. See AKHTIKKA. AKUTAN, an isl. and active volcano, of the Aleutian series ; lat. 54 22 N. , Ion. 165 40 W. (R.) The volcano is 3332 ft. in height. AKYAB, a seaport, India beyond the Ganges, prov. Arracan, of which it is the cap. as well as of a district of its own name. It lies on an island at the mouth of the Mayu or Arracan river; lat. 20 8 24" N. ; Ion. 92 54 E. (u.) The town, which was commenced in 1826, is composed of houses built chiefly of bamboo. They are, however, spacious and airy, and are elevated a few feet above the ground, to guard against damp. The harbour, though its entrance be rather intricate for strangers, has good and safe anchorage, in 3 to 5J fathoms water. This port has been rapidly rising in im portance, more especially as respects its shipments of rice to various ports in the East, to Europe, and even to America. When cleaned in the U. States, it is sometimes re-exported with the Carolina brand upon it, being little, if at all, inferior to the rice of that State. Akyab is a free port, and all commodities, opium exccpted, are exempt from duty. The imports are unimportant, there being no market for any quantity of one article. There is a civil judge here, who tries all suits for sums not exceeding 500 rupees (50) ; the language used in this court is Burmese. Pop. about 5000. The DISTRICT of Akyab is the largest of the three into which the prov. of Arracan is divided. It is much inter sected with rivers and salt-water creeks or natural canals, with water sufficient to admit a vessel of 300 to 400 tons, pro ceeding 20 to 25 m. beyond Akyab. llice is the principal crop, and the only grain exported. The natives are deficient in the method of cleaning it, so that it is often shipped in the husk. Other articles of produce exported are sandoway, tobacco, bees wax, honey, raw cotton, hides, horns, wood oils, shark fins, fish maws, chillies, ginger, cows, bullocks, ponies, and salt, which last is next in importance to grain. At the port, and in the district of Akyab, there are generally, loading at the same time, between 100 and 200 vessels, chiefly small craft from the Coromandel coast, where paddy is cleaned for the Mauritius and Bourbon markets. During 11 years, ending 1848, the grain exports from the port and district amounted to the average of 62,425 tons; and the number of vessels to 525. (Jour. Geo. Soc.; Nautical Magazine, 1849.) ALA ALAOON ALA, a tn. Austrian Tyrol, circle of, and 9 m. S. from Roveredo, on the left bank of the Adige. It is the last station in Tyrolese ground when travelling towards Italy, and lies on a picturesque slope, its well-built houses, in scattered groups, forming a kind of crescent, half encircling the mountains which rise above it. Ala has a gymnasium and elementary school; manufactories of velvet and silk, more important formerly than at present; and its inhabitants are also en gaged in raising grapes, grain, fruit, and in meadow cul ture. It occupies the site of the Mansio ad palatium of the llomans; and, during the Middle Ages, it was named Sala. Top. 3800. ALABAMA, one of the S. United States, America, bounded, N. by Tcnnesse, E. by Georgia, S. by Florida and the Gulf of Mexico, and W. by Mississippi. Greatest length, from N. to S., 317 in. ; greatest breadth, about 185 m. ; super ficial extent, 46.000 sq. m., or 28,160,000 acres ; between lat. 30 10 and 35 N. ; and between Ion. 85 and 88 30 W. The S. part of the State, which borders on the Gulf of Mexico and Florida, over a space of 50 or 60 m. in width, is low and level, and wooded with pine, cypress, and loblolly; the middle is hilly, with some tracts of level sand, or prairies; the N. is broken and mountainous. The district is intersected by the rivers Alabama, Tombigbee, Mobile, Black Warrior, Coosa, Tallapoosa, Tennesse, Chatahoochee, Perdido, and Cahawba, some of which are navigable by steamers for several hundred miles. The soil is various, being in some places, particularly in the S., sandy and barren ; in others, fertile. On the margin of the rivers there is some rich land ; beyond, the ground is low, wet, and interspersed with stagnant pools. Next to this river swamp, and elevated 10 or 15 ft. above it, there lies an extensive tract of level land, composed of a black rich mould, and covered with wood. To this succeed the prairies wide- spreading plains, or gently undulating land, without timber, and clothed with grass, herbage, and flowers. The climate in the S. of the bottom land skirting the rivers, and of the country bordering on the mussel shoals of the Tennesse, is unhealthy. In the more elevated parts, it is more salubrious, the winters being mild, and the summers tempered by breezes from the Gulf of Mexico. Its staple production is cotton ; but it also produces wheat, barley, oats, rye, maize, potatoes, hay, tobacco, rice, and sugar. Iron ore is found in several places, and coal abounds on the Black Warrior and Cahawba. Marble, also, is found, and gold ore in small quantity. Live stock: Horses, mules, cattle, sheep, swine, and poultry. Principal manufactures : Cotton, iron, leather, hardware, bricks, and carriages. The legislative power of Alabama is vested in a senate, consisting of 33 members elected for four years, one half going out every two years, and a house of representatives, consisting of 100 members elected for two years, chosen by universal suffrage, and, together, forming the General Assembly of the State. The governor, in whom the executive power is vested, is elected for two years. The State sends five repre sentatives to Congress. It is divided into 49 counties ; its principal towns are Montgomery, now the seat of govern ment; Mobile, the chief port; Cahawba, St. Stephens, Tus- caloosa, Wetumpka, Florence, and Huntsville. In 1848, the exports amounted to about 2, 385,549; the imports to 83,879. In the present year (1850), the national debt is 2,077,187, on which an interest is payable annually of 108,516. Pop. in 1845, 624,827, of which 253,532 were slaves in 1840, and 2039 free people of colour. (U. Slates Gaz.; Davenport s American Gaz.; Tanner s Canals and Railroads of the U. States; Murray s U. States.) ALABASTER, ELEUTIIERA, or ETIIERA, one of the Bahamas. See BAHAMA ISLANDS. ALABAT, one of the smaller of the Philippines, on the E. coast of the island of Lucon, prov. Tayabas, near the head of the extensive inlet at the S. end of the island, which termin ates in the Gulf or Bay of Lamon or Lanipon. The N. point of the island is in lat. 14 N. ; Ion. 121 55 E. (u.) It is about 10 m. in length, and from 4 to 5 m. in breadth. The inhab itants are described as a savage race. (Mallat s Philippines.) ALACRAN, or ALACKANES (THE), a reef, or shoal, Gulf of Mexico, off the N. coast of the peninsula of Yucatan, from which it is distant about 80 m. On the S. side is a harbour called Port Alacrane, in lat. 22 23 36" N. ; Ion. 89 42 W. (K. It is secure, and well sheltered by dry reefs, which protect it as effectually as land. On February 12, 1847, the mail steam packet Tweed was lost on this reef, when 72 persons perished. ALADAN, ALADA, or ALADINE ISLANDS, a cluster of small islands, Bay of Bengal, off the coast of Siam, forming part of the Mergui Archipelago; lat. 9 35 N.; Ion. 97 58 E. ALADJAHLSSAR, or KKUKOVATZ, a tn. European Turkey, cap. sanjak Krukovatz, prov. Servia, on the right bank of the Morava, about 95 m. S. Semendria ; lat. 43 19 N.; Ion. 21 23 E. The sanjak is traversed by offsets from the Balkan range, and is watered by the Morava and some smaller streams, all of them discharging their waters into the Danube, to which the district gradually slopes. It contains some mines and vineyards. ALAEJOS, a tn. Spain, Leon, prov. of, and 30 m. S.W. from Valladolid, near the left bank of the Trabancos. It is agreeably situated, and its regular, paved, and clean streets are lined with dry, elegant vaults for storing wine, the preparation of which constitutes one of the chief occupations in the town. It has a square, in which are the townhall, the prison, and one of the two churches possessed by the town, both of them spacious Doric buildings. There are, likewise, in Alaejos four schools, an hospital for wayfaring poor, and several other benevolent institutions. The inhabitants are employed chiefly in raising wheat, barley, rye, and peas, of which considerable quantities are exported to Madrid and Portugal ; in growing wine, part of which is also exported; in weaving domestic linens for local consumpt, and in tanning leather. Pop. 3255. (Madoz.) ALAGIIEZ, a volcanic mountain, and mountain range, bordering the N. side of the basin of Armenia. It lies on the N. side of the great plain of the Araxes, and, on the E., touches on Lake Gokcha, or Sevan, and on the N. it is con nected with offshoot mountain ranges of the Caucasus. On some parts of its slopes large quantities of sulphur are obtained. Its highest peak rises 13,628 ft. above the sea level. ALAGOAS, a maritime prov. of Brazil, deriving its name from various intercommunicating lakes for which it is noted. It lies between lat. 9 and 10 30 S. ; and is bounded, N. and W. by the prov. of Pernambuco, S. by the prov. of Sergipe del Key, and E. by the Atlantic; length about 130 m. by a breadth of about 90 m. This province has several lakes, none of them of great extent, frequented by a great variety of birds ; and several ridges of hills, none of them of great elevation, but generally well wooded, and inhabited by abundance of game, ounces, macaws, &c., which furnish a grateful sustenance to various tribes of nomadic Indians that frequent these wilds. From the extent of surface covered by lakes and by forests, the climate of Alagoas is on the whole moist. The plains near the sea are generally sandy, and not very fertile ; but inland, the soil is good, producing, besides tobacco, cotton, and sugar, which are exported to Bahia and Pernambuco, mangoes, oranges, jack fruit, and abundance of fine timber used for shipbuilding in the above-named ports, and in Maceyo. Cattle are reared, but not in numbers sufficient to supply the demands of the coast towns. Lime stone, granite, and various kinds of clay abound in the prov. Pop. 120,000. (Die. Geo. Imp. Brazil.) ALAGOAS, a city and seaport in the above prov., on the coast of the Atlantic, S. side of an arm of the sea named Mandau, which runs inland about 40 in., and about 20 m. distant from Ma9eyo ; lat. 9 40 S. ; Ion. 35 59 W. It is built on an elevated situation, and, being adorned with lofty mango trees, has an extremely picturesque appearance when viewed from a distance, but does not improve on a nearer in spection. The houses are mostly of stone, and generally more than one story in height ; many of them, however, are falling into decay, while the streets have altogether a deserted appearance a consequence, chiefly, of the expulsion of the Portuguese by the Brazilians. There are eight churches and two convents in the town, all handsome buildings. The market is well supplied with fresh and salt-water fish, and with the fruits of the district. The town has fallen off since the seat of local government was transferred to Maceyo, which is the chief place of trade. The principal productions of the country around are sugar, cotton, mandioca, hides, Brazil wood, and rosewood. Pop. of town and district, 12,000. ALAGON, a river, Spain, formed by the union of several small streams which take their rise in the sierra Francia, prov. Salamanca. Flowing in a S. direction, it traverses and ALAGON ALAND irrigates a considerable portion of the province of Caccres, changes, at Kiolobos, its course to S. W., and, receiving several affluents, falls into the Tagus, about 2 m. N.E. Alcantara. The Alagon is about 120 in. in length, and noted for the size and flavour of its trout and other fish. (Madoz.) ALAGON, a tn. Spain, Aragon, prov. of, and 15 m. N.W. from Saragossa, near the junction of the Jalon, or Xalon, with the Ebro, aiil close upon the Aragon Canal. It is a well- built, well-arranged, little town, with clean and paved streets. It possesses two churches, four schools, and an hospital. The inhabitants are principally occupied with agriculture; produc ing grain, olives, grapes, &c., and in manufacturing a small quantity of saltpetre. Pop. 1932. (Madoz.) ALAGUASH, or ALLAOASH, a river in Maine, U. States, America. It is the outlet of the waters of numerous lakes, among which the most considerable are Aphmoogenegamook, Alagas-quegamook, and Potaques-quegamookook, from which it takes a crooked N. course, interspersed with numerous rapids round the Allagash mountains, over a considerable fall, called the Great Fall, to the river St. John, which it enters; lat. 47 4 N. ; Ion. 65 5 W. ALAIS, a flourishing manufacturing tn. France, dep. Gard, upon the Gardon d Alais, at the foot of the Cevennes mountains, and formerly cap. of the district of Cevennes ; 38 m. N.W. Avignon; 23 m. N.W. Nismes, to which there is a railway. Although pretty well built, there is nothing remarkable about the public buildings. In the town there are a Protestant consistorial church, a tribunal of commerce, and one of primary jurisdiction, a communal college, an agricultural society, a chemical laboratory for the engineers employed at the mines, a theatre, and a public library con taining about 4000 volumes. Alais owes its prosperous condition to the richness of the surrounding country in coal, iron, lead, zinc, and manganese, all of which are wrought, but more especially the first two, with great assiduity. The coal of the district was not wrought until 1809, and from that period may be said to date the rise of Alais. Manufactures : Iron, cast and malleable ; regulus of antimony, litharge, silk gloves, stockings, and thread ; ribbons, serges, leather, glass to a considerable extent, porcelain and pottery ware. Trade : Grain, wine, sulphate of iron, coal, and the various articles manufactured in the town and neighbourhood. In the vicinity are several chalybeate springs, which, during the autumn months, are visited to some extent for their medicinal properties. Pop. in 1819, 8000; in 1846, 17,838. (.Die. de la France.) ALAJUELA, a tn. Central America, state Costa Rica, 25 m. N.W. Cartago ; lat. 9 45 N. ; Ion. 83 40 W. Some of the better houses have a handsome appearance; they are long and low, with broad piazzas and large windows, having wooden balconies. The plaza is beautifully situated. Mr. Stephens, describing the town as it appeared on a Sunday, says, The inhabitants, who were cleanly dressed, were sitting on the piazzas, or with doors wide open, reclining in ham mocks, or on high-backed wooden settees inside. The women were dressed like ladies, and some were handsome, and all white. As we passed along the street, we were accosted in the most friendly manner by all we met. The road, for two or three miles before entering the town, is lined with houses, 300 or 400 yards apart, built of white- washed adobes, and the fronts of some are ornamented with paintings. Rows of trees, bearing beautiful flowers, and which, in some places, com pletely embower the houses, run on either side of the road. In the fields, the growing of sugar canes is the chief culture ; every house has attached a small sugar mill. Pop. about 10,000. ALAKANANDA, a river, Hindoostan, rising in the Himalaya mountains, about lat. 31 N.; Ion. 79 35 E.; and flowing S. W. through the prov. of Gurwal. At Devaprayaga, a small town 12 m. W. Serinagur, lat. 30 10 N.; Ion. 78 40 E., it unites with the Bhagirathi in forming the river Ganges. It is one of the sacred rivers of the Hindoos, and abounds with a species of fish named roher (Cyprinus denticu- latus), which the .Brahmins daily feed, and some of which be come so tame, as to eat bread from the hand. Another species, named sober, beautifully coloured, and of fine flavour, is found in the river. (Hamilton s East India Gaz.) ALAK-DAGH [Beautiful mount], a lofty mountain, j Turkish Armenia, prov. Erzeroom, about 50 in. W. Mount Ararat, with which it is connected by several lofty chains. Its | height has not been accurately ascertained, but is stated at 9000 or 10,000 ft. above the sea. On the N. faces of the highest peaks, Mr. Brant saw large masses of snow lying in the mouth of September. The name ALAK-DAGII is applied also to a portion of the Altarian mountains, and to a range of mountains in Auadolia, 35 m. N.W. Angora. ALA KOI [Beautiful village], a vil. Asiatic Turkey, pash. Van, on the E. side of the lake of the latter name. It contains a church ; and, on a hill overlooking the village, arc the ruins of another of ancient date, while at the bottom there is a third of smaller dimensions. There are extensive vineyards in the vicinity, and a considerable quantity of wine is made, which is sent to, and disposed of, in the city of Van. The Lake of Van is not visible from the village, being shut out from view by an intervening range of low hills. ALAMEDA [A row of trees], the name of several towns and villages, Spain: 1, A vil. Old Castile, prov. Soria, whose inhabitants are employed in agriculture, in rearing sheep and goats, and in weaving domestics. Pop. 372. 2, A tn. Anda lusia, prov. of, and 54 m. N.W. from Malaga, on the road from Sevilla to Granada. It has a church and granary ; soil in the vicinity is of good quality, producing grain, olives, and veget ables. Pop. 3090. 3, A tn. New Castile, prov. of, and 8 m. from Madrid, noted for the Capricliio, the fine palace and plea sure grounds of the Dukes of Osuna. Pop. 102. 4, A vil. Leon, prov. Salamanca, about 16 m. from Ciudad Kodrigo. It has irregular streets, a church, school, and some flourmills. Pop. 714. 5, Sta Maria de la Alameda, a tn. Old Castile, prov. of, and 36 m. W. from Madrid, on the confines of the two Castiles. It has a cold, unhealthy climate, and contains a church and school. Pop. 560. 6, Alameda de la Sagra, a tn. Old Castile, prov. Toledo, and 8 m. from lllescas. It has regular streets, a townhouse, granary, and church. Pop. 1027. 7, Alamedadel Valle, a tn. Old Castile, prov. Madrid, 1 m. from Biutrago, in a valley of the same name. Pop. 242. (Madoz.) ALAMOS (Los), a tn. Mexico, prov. Sonora, 140m. N.W. Sinaloa, between the Rio del Fuerte and the Rio Mayo ; situ ated in a barren plain, in a district celebrated for its silver mines, which are a few miles distant from the town. The merchants of Alamos are generally wealthy, and the town itself handsome. It contains some good and well- paved streets. The houses are generally built of stone or brick, laid over with stucco. Those that surround the square are of modern architecture, and belong to the principal miners and merchants. A new church of stone, finished in 1826, is a very elegant building. The Alameda is a pleasant prome nade, formed of avenues of poplars, with stone seats at inter vals. Provisions are dear, being brought from a great dis tance ; the water used in the town is^ drawn from deep wells, and is very bad, and scarce. The inhabitants are described as proud, reserved, and unsociable, even amongst themselves. They have no amusement except gambling, which they carry to excess. Pop. about 6000 ; and from 3000 to 4000 more are employed daily in the mines. There are four other towns of the same name in S. America. (Ward s Mexico, vol. ii. App.) ALAMUT, or ALAMOOT, a district of Persia, a little to the N.W. of Tehran, between Ion. 50 and 51 E., and intersected by the 36th parallel. It is bounded N. by a high range of mountains, which separate it from the provinces of Gilan and Mazanderan, and is about 30 m. in length by 20 in breadth. In this district is situated the ancient stronghold of the chiefs of the Assassins. (See ASSASSINS.) It stood upon a high, naked, and exceedingly steep rock, and was deemed impregnable before gunpowder became a munition of war. A few dilapidated walls and cisterns are all that now remain of the vulture s nest, as this stern retreat was sometimes called. The vicinity of the rock, says Col. Shiel, is a most dreary solitude; excepting eagles and lizards, not a living thing is to be seen, nor even a single tree, but the view from the summit is very fine. ALAND, or OLAND, ISLANDS, a large group of 80 in habited, and 200 uninhabited islands, situated between the Gulf of Bothnia and the Baltic Sea, and near the mouth of the Gulf of Finland, between lat. 59 50 and 60 40 N. ; Ion. 19 30 and 21 E., and occupying a space of about 352 geo. sq. m. They formerly belonged to Sweden, but are now included in the government of Finland, having been ceded AL-ARAISH 61 ALAVA to Russia in 1809. The navigation amongst them is rendered difficult by the narrowness^and shallowness of the channels. The principal islands are Aland, which gives name to the group, Lemland, Lumparland, Ekeroe, Fogloe, Kumlinge, Braendoe, Vordoc, and ilannoe. The whole group is com posed mainly of rod granite, with here and there strata of red marl and limestone. This foundation is covered with clay, flint, and humus ; and along the coasts are large masses of feldspathic flint. Aland, distant about 30 m. from the Swedish coast, is the largest of the whole, being 25 m. long, and about 22 broad. It is hilly, deeply indented by numerous bays, and contains forests of pine and birch. It has also some good pasture and arable land, and is watered by several small streams. Wheat, barley, and rye are raised here, as in some of the other islands, in sufficient quantities for the supply of the inhabitants, who rear also a number of horses, cattle, sheep, and goats. In this island there is a harbour capable of containing the whole Russian fleet, and a citadel in which, it is said, 60,000 men might be quartered. Besides other occupations, the inhabitants employ themselves in shooting wild fowl and other game, in quarrying and burning lime stone, but principally in fishing and catching seals, which abound on their coasts. The produce of the country, consist ing of butter, salted meat and fish, cheese, hides, charcoal, timber, lime, and game, is conveyed in small vessels to the neighbouring ports upon the Baltic. The whole archipelago of Aland is divided into eight parishes, of which five are in the principal island. There are various good ports and several villages, or hamlets, of which Castleholm, in Aland, where there is an old castle, is the chief place. The inhabitants are entirely of Swedish extraction. The first victory of the Rus sians over the Swedes was gained in the neighbourhood of these islands, by Peter I., in 1714. The principal ports are now generally occupied by detachments of the Baltic fleet ; and one of the smaller islands, on which a telegraph is estab lished, is inhabited by the pilots who are employed by the Russian Government for conducting the mails and travellers. Pop. 14,000, of which 9000 are in Aland, and 3000 in Kum linge. (Guibert, Die. Gco. et Stat.) AL-ARAISH. See EL-AKAISH. ALARO, a tn. isl. of Majorca, belonging to Spain, situ ated on the slope of a high mountain in the interior, llm. N.E. Palmas. It is tolerably well built, and has two municipal offices, a church, and two endowed schools ; some water, and several windmills, brandy distilleries, and manufactures of soap and coarse cloth. Pop. 4080. ALASEA, or ALASEJ, an important river, N.E. Siberia, between the Indigirka and the Kolyma ; it rises in lat. 67 N., in the Alasio hills, and, flowing nearly parallel with the for mer river, falls into the Arctic Ocean, about 100 m. to the N.E. of the embouchure of that river. ALA-SHEHR [anc. Philadelphia], a city, Turkey in Asia, pash. Anadolia, 82 m. E. Smyrna, stands on part of Mount Tenolus, near the river Cogamus, famous as the seat of one of the first Christian churches. It is of great extent, but the houses are mean, and the streets narrow and dirty. A vast number of interesting remains of antiquity are scattered about the town, consisting of fragments of beautiful columns, .sarcophagi, fountains, &c. Ala-Shehr was built by Attains Philadelphia, king of Pergamos, and is still a place of some importance, being much resorted to by caravans going to and from Smyrna. Pop. 15,000. ALASKA. See ALIASKA. ALASSIO, a seaport tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 5 m. S.W. from Albenga; lat. 44 1 N.; Ion. 8 11 E. The port is excellent, and carries on a considerable trade. Pop. 6000. ALASSONA, a tn. European Turkey, in Thessaly, on the left bank of the Saranta Poros; pash. of, and 35 m. N.E. from Tricala, or Trikhala, and 25 m. N.W. Larissa. It has a Greek convent, a considerable summer market, and a popu lation of about 3000. ALATA, a small river, Abyssinia, a tributary of the Bahr-el-Azrek, near its confluence with which occurs the celebrated cataract of Alata, first described by Bruce. The cataract on the Bahr-el-Azrek is locally known by the name of Tis Esat, or Smoke of fire ; and is situated about 20 m. S. Lake Tzana, about 5000 ft. above the level of the sea ; lat. 1 1 30 N ; Ion. 37 40 E. (See AZREK, BAHR-EL-.) There is a vil. named ALATA in the isl. of Corsica, about 6 m. N. Ajaccio. ALATA CASTRA, a Eoman fortress, Scotland, co. Moray, par. Duffus. See BURGHEAD. ALATAMAHA, or ALTAMAHA, a river, Georgia, U. States, America, formed by the union of the Ocmulgee and the Oconee, from the sources of which, in the Alleghany moun tains, its course is about 500 m. It is a large but gentle stream, flowing through forests and plains, and falling, by several outlets, into Altamaha Sound, 60 m. S.W. Savan nah. Its average breadth is 600 yards, its depth 8 ft.; and the bar at its mouth has 14 ft. at low water. On both branches, it is navigable by vessels of small size for 300 m. from the sea. ALATRI, a tn. Papal States, delegation of, and 5 m. N. from Frosinone. It has some trade in wine, oil, and common cloth. The bishop holds immediately from the Pope. Pop. 9000. ALATYR, a tn. Russia, gov. of, and 90 m. W.N.W. from Simbirsk, at the confluence of the Alatyr with the Sura; lat. 54 45 N. ; Ion. 46 15 E. The houses are constructed of wood ; and it has a considerable trade in corn. Pop. (1850), 7247. The river Alatyr rises in the gov. of Penza, flows E. through part of Novgorod ; and, in Simbirsk, falls into the Sura, at the town from which it derives its name, after a course of upwards of 125 m. ALAUSI, a tn. Ecuador, dep. Assuay, cap. of a district of same name, 140 m. S. Quito, on the road from that city to Cuenca; lat. 2 13 22" S. ; Ion. 79 15" W. (L.) It lies at an altitude of 7980 ft. above the sea, in the valley of Alausi, on a small river of its own name, an affluent of the Gulf of Guayaquil. It has a church, a Franciscan convent, and a school; and in the neighbourhood are warm medicinal springs, whose waters are used to some extent. Manufactures : Cloth, both woollen and cotton, in which, also, some trade is done. The valley to which Alausi gives its name, is one of the highest and richest in the Andes of Ecuador, producing sugar cane, grain, and fruits of every kind. (Gutsmuths ; Alcedo ; Guibert, Die. Gco. et Stat.) ALAVA, a hilly prov. in the N. of Spain, cap. Vitoria, one of the three Basque provinces, between lat. 42 23 46" and 43 8 5" N.; Ion. 2 11 and 3 6 W.; bounded, N. by Biscay, N.E. by Guipuzcoa, E. by Navarre, S. by Old Castile, and W. by Santandcr; area, 2059 sq. m. The general feat ures of this province are very rugged, branches of the great Pyrenean chain ramifying throughout its length and breadth, and forming a natural boundary between Alava and the other two Basque provinces Biscay and Guipuzcoa. The moun tains yield iron, copper, lead, and antimony; marble, free stone, white limestone and granite; most of which are wrought to some extent ; they are clothed with oak, chestnut, holly, pine, and other hardy timber, and abound in ferruginous, calcareous, and sulphurous springs. The principal streams are the Zadorra and Ayada, both affluents of the Ebro, which forms the boundary between Alava and Old Castile. In the N. part of the province are salines, or salt pools. The valleys are fertile, but the system of agriculture is very defec tive, and the implements used in husbandry of the most homely and primitive description. Grain, especially maize, the staple food of the inhabitants, vegetables, flax, hemp, and abundance of fruits of excellent quality, are produced ; and wine is plen tiful, but inferior. Sheep, goats, pigs, horned cattle, and mules for agricultural labour and carrying, are reared, and deer and game of all kinds abound. The chief occupation of the people is husbandry, but many are also employed in tanning, in grinding corn, expressing oil, and manufacturing cloth, felt hats, linen drills, earthenware, hardware, and glass; and some are engaged as carriers. Alava exports fruits, iron, copper, and manufactured goods ; and imports sugar, chocolate, tobacco, and implements for mechanical purposes. Education is little attended to, partly from the children being too early sent to labour, and partly owing to the peculiar pre judices of the people, who, both in language, costume, and manners, are entirely different from those of the other portions of the peninsula ; and who, priding themselves on nobility of birth, resent, as an insult, any attempt to correct their moral deficiencies. It is worthy of remark, that, though much addicted to smuggling yet theft and murder is much less fre quent among them than in rnos>t other districts of Spain; ALAYA ALBANCIIEZ and the hospitality of the peasantry, according to their humble means, is proverbial. For costume, and other parti culars respecting the Biscayans, .we BASQUE PROVINCES. Top. 81,397. (Madoz, Die. de Espana.) ALAYA [anc. Corcuxsium], a seaport tn. Turkey in Asia, pash. Itshili, cap. sanjak of the same name ; lat. 36 j 31 30" N. ; Ion. 32 1 E (R.) ; situated on the face of a j rocky promontory, from 500 to 000 ft. in height, and sur rounded with old walls, now falling to ruin. The town and \ adjacent dills of compact white limestone, have a picturesque | appearance from the sea. But from its being built on an acclivity, the streets arc so steep, that one only is practicable for horses. The houses are wretched, and the mosques small and mean. There is here neither pier nor harbour. There is, however, good anchorage in the roads, from two to four cables length from the shore. About 9 m. N.E. from the town, is seen the peak of a mountain nearly 5000 ft. high, which forms a good landmark to mariners. Pop. 2000. ALA YOU, or ALEYOK, a tn. isl. Minorca, belonging to Spain, situated in the interior about 10 m. W.N.W. Port Mahon. It is a close-built and uneven town, having a town- house, two churches, an hospital, endowed school, some wind mills, brandy distilleries, linen weaving, cheese making, and a small trade in wine and potatoes. Pop. 4722. (Madoz.) ALB, or ALP, called also the SWAUIAN ALPS, a chain of mountains appertaining almost exclusively to Wiirtemberg, extending S.W. to N.E. from the source of the Neckar, by which river it is separated from the mountains of the !Sch warz- wald, or Black forest, to that of the Jaxt, a total length of 84 m., and having a breadth varying fron 15 to 20 m. It forms the water shed between the Neckar and Danube ; and, in different parts, takes the names of Rauhe Alb, or rough Alps, by which, indeed, the whole chain is designated, though pro perly restricted to the district between Lauchart and Zainin- gen ; Hochstrass, applied to the district round Blaubeuren ; and Aalbuch to the elevated plains between Aalen, Heiden- heim and Weissenstein, on the right bank of the Brenz. It slopes gently towards the Danube, and shows its greatest escarpment towards the valley of the Neckar, seen from which it appears very much like the Jura when viewed from the basin of the Aar, that is to say, it exhibits a line of heights uninterrupted and almost of the same level, above which a few points are elevated. Its geological structure is the same as the Jura, of which, indeed, it seems to be an E. continua tion. Though, like the Jura, it is deficient in water, yet from its slopes rise the Kocher, Vils, Items, Lauter, Erms, Echatz, Lauchart, Bran, Brenz, &c. Its three most import ant summits are the Hohcuberg, 3369 ft. ; the Deiligenberg, 3331 ft. ; and the Schafberg, 3324 ft. above the sea level. (Orographie de V Europe.) ALBA [the Alba Pompeia of the Romans], an episcopal city, Sardinian states, cap. prov. of same name, 30 m. S.E. Turin, and 15 m. S.W. Asti ; on the right bank of the Tanaro, which is crossed by a bridge of boats. The country round it. is called Albezaiio. The town, which is the see of a bishop, suffragan to Turin, contains a cathedral, several churches, and a college. It has an extensive trade in cattle. Pop. 7500. The PROV. is watered by the rivers Hanaro, Belbo, and Bormida, and produces in abundance grain, maize, wine, and truffles; and the silk is considered to be the best in Pied mont. Amongst the products are marble, rock salt, and sulphate of magnesia. Pop. 105,737. ALBACETE, a prov. S.E. of Spain, partly in Murcia and partly in New Castile, between lat. 38 and 39 43 N. ; and Ion. 57 and 3 9 W. It is bounded, N. by the prov. Cuenca, E. by Valencia and Alicante, S by Murcia, and W. by Ciudad Keal and Jaen ; area, 3345 sq. m. The surface of this province is considerably varied, presenting, in some parts, lofty sierras, peaks of which attain a height, above the sea level, of 5000 ft. ; and, in other parts, rich plains and arable land. As a whole, it is hilly ; but its valleys every where are fertile. The hills produce pines, fit for naval pur poses ; abundance of oak ; also junipers, sarsaparilla, and vari ous other interesting plants. The province is well watered by the Jucar, the Gabriel, the Segura, the Mundo,and numerous smaller streams, all of which empty themselves into the Medi terranean ; and it possesses several salt lakes, or salines, and numerous medicinal springs hot and cold, saline, acidulous, ferruginous, sulphurous, and calcareous. Agriculture is in an advanced state for Spain; and cereals, hemp, tobacco, grapes, almonds, nuts, oranges, limes, lemons, olives, aloes, saffron, and rich honey, are produced ; the grapes and saffron in large quantities ; the annual produce of the latter amount ing to 12,000 Ibs. The pasture lands are rich; and largo numbers of sheep and goats, and a considerable number of cows, horses, mules, and asses, are reared. The mineral riches of Albaccte consist of building stones, millstones, gypsum, iron, copper, zinc, antimony, sulphur, and coal ; but none of them are wrought to any great extent, some not at all. The main occupation of the people is agriculture and cattle rearing ; some are employed as carriers, and others in various trades and manufactures ; in weaving sundry kinds of coarse cloths, chiefly for local consumpt; making earthen ware, hardware, and soap ; distilling brandy, &c. The trade of the province consists in exporting agricultural produce, and some iron, zinc, and sulphur. The state of education is miserably low, and crimes against the person are numerous. Pop. 195,531. (Madoz, Die. de Espana.) ALBACETE, a tn. Spain, in Murcia, cap. prov. of samo name, on the highway between Madrid and Cartagena, and 1 10 in. N.N.W. the latter place. It lies in a fertile but tree- le-s? plain ; is badly supplied with water, which is, also, of very indifferent quality. The streets mostly cross each other at right angles; they are commodious, and generally clean. Many of the houses are decorated with green painted bal conies. The town has, likewise, six squares ; in which are to be found the courthouses, barracks, and hospital, civil and military ; and the most noteworthy buildings are the parish church, of the 16th century; the chapter houses ; the palace de Pino-Hermoso ; and the bull ring. Besides these thero arc a chapel, an hospital for wayfaring poor, a normal semi nary, and numerous public and private schools. Albacete, from its position, is a place of considerable business; and carries on trade, both direct and transit, with Murcia, Ali cante, Valencia, and Madrid, exporting grain, saffron, and cattle ; and importing cod fish, sardines, rice, sugar, wine, iron, cloths, &c. The inhabitants are principally engaged in the carrying on trade; in making a sort of clasp-dagger knives, called cudrillo and navaja, in quality said to be second only to those of Toledo, but far inferior to Sheffield goods ; in making shoes, soap, earthenware, and other articles to a smaller extent. A large fair is held in September. Pop. 13,143. (Madoz, Die. de Espana.) ALBA DE TU11MES, a tn. Spain, in Leon, prov. of, and 17 in. S.E. from Salamanca, on a slope on the right bank of the Tonnes. It has two squares, in the larger of wliich are the parish church, and the townhall ; and it likewise possesses a public granary, an endowed hospital, and three superior and well-attended schools. Its inhabitants are chiefly devoted to agriculture. At Alba de Tormes, Oct. 19, 1809, Marshal Kellerman gained a victory over the Spanish Duquo del Parque. Pop. 2176. ALBALA, a small tn. Spain, in Estremadura, prov. of, and 20 m. S.S.E. from Caceres, at the extreme E. of the sierra de Moutanches. It has a church, townhall, school, and several fountains. The inhabitants are engaged in tillage, feeding cattle, manufacturing gray plush, and expressing oil. The produce of the vicinity in grain, fruits, and vegetables, is abundant; and black sheep, cattle, and pigs, are reared. Pop. 2133. ALBALATE DEL AKZOBISPO, a tn. Spain, in Aragon, prov. Teruel, 46 m. S.E. Saragossa, on the left bank of the Martin, an affluent of the Ebro, situated on a slope, and pretty regularly built ; having a church, a Latin and two other schools, an hospital, and cemetery. The inhabitants manufacture linen, coarse cloth, and baize ; cultivate grain, wine, oil, silk, and wool ; and rear sheep and goats. Pop. 3746. ALBALATE is likewise the name of various other villages in different parts of Spain. (Madoz.) ALBAN (Sr.), a tn. Prance, dep. Lozere, 18 m. N. Mende. It has manufactures of woollen stuff s, and an hos pital for insane females. Pop. 2155. There are several small towns and villages in France of this name ; amongst them is a hamlet, dep. Loire, remarkable for its mineral waters, which are much frequented. ALBANCHEZ, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 28 in. N.E. from Almcria, on a hill in the midst of lofty sierras. It contains a large square, a pari&h church, chapter house, ALBANIA 63 ALBANIA prison, two endowed schools, and a cemetery. Manufactures: Linen fabrics, quilts, and blankets, oil, and large quantities of tiles and bricks. Grain, grapes, olives, and fruits are cultivated ; and a few sheep and mules, for farming labour, reared. Pop. 2190. There is another ALBANCHEZ, also in Andalusia, prov. of, and 16 m. E. from Jaen. It has a church and school ; but, as a whole, has a very ruinous aspect, its houses being ill built, and in a state of decay. Pop. 1 1 93. , ALBANIA [called Sclikipcri, by the natives (from Sclikipc, a rock) ; Arnoutlouk, by the Turks; Arnantska-semlia, by the Servians ; and Albania, by the Greeks] , a mountainous country, European Turkey, between lat. 39 and 43 N. ; Ion. 19 5 and 21 28 E. It is about 290 m. in extreme length; and, in breadth, varying from about 90 m. in the N. and centre, to about 40 m. in the S.,near the Gulf of Arta; bounded, W. and S.W. by the Adriatic and Ionian Seas ; N. by Montenegro, from which it is separated by the river Moracha, and by Bos nia; E. by Servia, and that part of Eoumelia anciently called Mcosia and Macedonia, and by Thessaly or Trikala ; and S. by Greece. The N. and E. boundary, from Bosnia to the Gulf of Arta, is formed by a ridge of mountains which, gener ally speaking, also constitutes the water shed. It is called Kachka, and Djamus, on the Bosnian frontier; Shar Dagh, Vitzi, Grammes, &c., on the frontier towards Eoumelia and Thessaly. The country is divided into, 1, Upper Albania, as far S. as El-Bassan, on the river Scombi, comprising the pash- .ilics of Ipek, Prirsen, and Scutari, and several ayanships ; 2, Central Albania, from El-Bassan S. to the mountains of Tomor and Skrapnri, and the mouth of the Vojutza, governed by the Ayans of El-Bassan, Tirana, Cavaja, and Durazzo ; and, 3, Lower Albania, or Epirus, S. to the Grecian frontier, wholly governed by the pasha of Janina. Some writers include Mon tenegro in the limits of Albania, and exclude Epirus. In the boundaries laid down in this article, we have followed that elaborate and thoroughly scientific work, La Turquie d Europe, par Ami BoueV Mountains.- Albania is composed of at least nine ridges of hills, of which six are in Epirus, and three or four in Central and Upper Albania; all having a direction N.W. to S.E., excepting the hills along the N. and S. slope of the Dibres, of Lake Oehrida, and the Shar Dagh, which last has a direction N.E. to S.W. In the S. of Epirus, the hills are low, desti tute of wood near the sea, and composed of a series of calcar eous cliffs; but more to the N., they attain a considerable elevation. In Central Albania they are comparatively low, while those in Upper Albania are the loftiest in the country ; some, in the latter district and Epirus, having snow on them nearly nine months of the year. The following are a few of the principal heights : feet. Lower Albania, JCaTralirra 18 161 G395 or Epirus ( Joormevka. .V. . .... ................... ....!!!!!!!6395 (Mounts of the S.E 2661 Central Albania....? Heights near Velo^oscht 1279 (Heights E. of the Plain N. of Herat 1279 to 1385 ( Peak of Kobilitza 7875 Upper Albania 1 Peaks E. ot Kobilitza HSloto 8G33 (PeakofLioubeten 6810 Besides those specified, there are many other peaks, both in Epirus and in Upper Albania, above 4000 ft. high. Rivers. Albania has no great rivers, in consequence of their course being so short, and its inclination so great, causing many of them in summer to have scarcely any water, and some of them even to be completely dry. In Upper and Central Albania, and the N. of Epirus, the general course of the streams is E. to W., though the White and the Black Drin, before their junction, run respectively S. and N., and the Vojutza and its affluents run S.E. to N.W. In S. Epirus, however, the streams generally run from N.E. to S.W., or from N. to S., and only here and there from N.W. to S.E. The Drin, or Drino, is the largest Albanian river. It is formed by the White Drin, rising on the Bosnian frontier ; and the Black Drin, issuing from Lake Oehrida. The former flows S., and the latter N., to their junction, about 15 in. S.W. Prirsen, after which the course of the river is W. It falls into the Adriatic about 14 m. S. Scutari; and its whole length, from either source, is about 150 or 160 m. It is navigable for large vessels as far up as Scela, and for boats of 40 to 50 tons above Lesch. The Bojana, which connects Lake Scutari with the Adriatic, is navigable for coasters to Oboti, a short distance below the town of Scutari. Excepting the Arta and Lorou, which are navigable near their mouth, none of the other rivers of Albania can be navigated ; being, at most, useful for the purposes of flotation and irrigation. In this class may be named the Scombi, Ergent, Vojutza, Kalamas, Mattia, Mavro-potamos, &c. Lakes. Albania, like Greece, being a continuation of the mountains that constitute Herzegovina, and having a similar composition, partakes of the peculiar system of subterranean streams that characterizes the waters of that country. In this respect, Epirus is especially remarkable for its circular basins, its cavities without water, its ponds and water courses that disappear at certain seasons, and also for its gulfs and subterranean rivers. The finest example of this last is found in the Lake of Janina, formed of two basins, united by a chan nel so narrow and filled up by plants and islets, that in process of time, probably, there may be two lakes in place of one. The whole lake is about 10 m. long, by 1 to 3 m. broad. The upper, or N. and smaller lake, pours its waters into a gulf at its S.W. part, whence they re-appear in a hollow to the S. W., and form the Velschistas, an affluent of the Kalamas. The waters of the lower lake escape by subterranean courses, and near Vestavesti form the sources of the St. Georges, an affluent of the Lorou. The Lake of Janina thus sends its waters both to the Gulf of Arta and to the Ionian Sea. The highest and most beautiful lake in Albania, and even in Turkey, is that of Oehrida, which lies 2147 ft. above the sea level. It is about 20 m. long, by about 8 m. broad at its widest part. The Lake of Scutari, in Upper Albania, which would seem to have been at one time even larger than now, is the largest lake in the country, being somewhat longer, though not quite so broad as Oehrida. It has some islands near its W. shore, and abounds with fish. There are several smaller lakes, but none of them important. Geology. Geologically, Albania belongs to the cretaceous system of the Alps, and is composed chiefly of nummulitic limestone, with here and there upheaved schist and serpentine. Along the courses of the rivers, but more especially at their mouth, are alluvial deposits and sometimes tertiary clay. It is not certainly known that the country contains any metals, though some authorities contend that argentiferous lead and copper are to be found in Epirus. Vegetation. In consequence of its lofty mountains and southern position, Albania possesses an extremely varied vege tation. Alpine and subalpine, tne forms are similar to those found on the Alps of Switzerland, and on the mountains of Scotland ; many being identical, though of course not a few are different. Saxifraga media, well known on the Pyrenees, is here found in abundance, though wanting in the Alps, which, in their turn, possess the rhododendrons, which are wanting in Albania. Though by no means a thickly wooded country, it possesses many species of oak, the poplar, hazel, plane, chest nut, cypress, and laurel. Vines are good, especially in Epirus, and the orange, almond, fig, mulberry, citron; likewise maize, wheat, and barley, either grow naturally, or are cultivated. Zoology. Bears, wolves, chamois, and deer, are found on the mountains ; sheep and goats, but more especially the latter, are numerous ; cows are kept to some extent ; the horses are excellent and sure-footed, and mules and asses are plentiful. The lakes abound in water fowl, and a kind of clupea, or herring, ascends the Bojana to Lake Scutari, where it is taken in considerable quantities. Various other kinds of fish, but particularly eels, inhabit the lakes and streams ; and with such rapidity do many of these latter diminish in the summer, that large quantities of eels are frequently left dry in the beds of the rivers, or of the water courses made for the purposes of irrigation. Eagles, various kinds of hawks, and numerous other kinds of birds, are plentiful, and hawking is a frequent amusement of the wealthier classes, the pursuit of birds with guns and dogs not being held in much esteem. Mosquitoes in many parts abound ; in Epirus the cochineal insect thrives : bees are reared everywhere ; and, in the marshes in the basin of the Arta and near Lake Scutari, leeches are found in con siderable numbers. Climate. The heat of summer is almost insupportable in the maritime valleys of Albania. There are in the country numerous circular cavities, whose waters being absorbed, the air in summer is stagnant and heavy, giving rise to ALBANIA SI ALBANO (SANT- 1 ) those dangerous intermittent fevers that regularly visit the country, especially from July to November. The temperature in July and August reaches, in the shade, to 97, and even to 101. The winter or cold season lasts from November to April ; snow on the coasts is rare, though on the mountains plentiful. October and December arc the rainy months, in [ which the rivers overflow their banks. Trade, Commerce, and Towns. In the import and export trade of this province, vessels under the British and Ionian, the Greek and Ottoman flags, are almost the only ones engaged; a few Austrians forming occasional exceptions; while French and Russians are still more rare. The exports are shipped chiefly at Prevesa, or Previsa, at the entrance to the Gulf of Arta, and consist principally of grain, timber, oil, salt fish, cheese, tobacco, cotton, wool, and capotes a large white woollen outer garment manufactured in the country. The cotton is received through Thessaly, and is exported to the German and Italian ports of the Adriatic. The chief imports, most of which come also by the way of Previsa, are sugar, coffee, gunpowder, firearms, ironmongery, com mon cloths, linen, and velvets. The principal connections of the coast are with Greek houses at Trieste, and Maltese houses, through which they receive the manufactures of Great Britain. In the year ending December 31, 1842, there arrived at Previsa 535 British and Ionian vessels, and 528 departed ; and, probably, about 150 more from various other countries. The internal trade of the country is carried on by means of pack horses ; four or five of which are attached to each other by cords, and guided by one man. Other ports besides Previsa, are Parga, Avlona or Valona, Durazzo, Dulcigno, &c. ; and of principal towns, may be named Arta, Janina, Scutari, &c. Gmernment. Albania is under the government of the dif ferent Turkish pashas in whose territories it lies ; but the power of the former is much limited by the bold and warlike tendencies of the inhabitants, which will not brook a despotic control. The local authorities are constituted differently in different places; and although all the tribes are nominafly subject to the Turkish Government, a great part of them are virtually independent. People, Manners, Customs, &c. The Albanians are of rather short stature, muscular, active, and of a warlike spirit. The women are tall and strong, but not beautiful, having generally an air of wretchedness, the result of the laborious work they are compelled to perform, and of the harsh treatment they meet with from their husbands. The dress of the men con sists of a shirt of white cotton, worn often till it becomes black ; drawers of the same materials ; a mantle of white woollen ; a large great coat or capote, with loose open sleeves ; and a waist girdle, formed of a coarse shawl drawn tight by a belt that contains their pistols. The habits of the Albanians are filthy, many of them wearing their garments till they are falling to shreds, and are covered with vermin. Their food is simple and nourishing, and their cottages neat. The dis tinguishing feature of their character is a strong feeling of nationality. They are all trained to arms, and make brave and hardy soldiers; but their discipline is very imperfect. Their usual arms are two pistols in the sash or girdle; a yatagan or cutlass, slightly bent forward ; a sabre bent back ward, hung to a belt ; and a long musket. They are numerous in the Turkish army, of which they constitute the best soldiers. In agricultural operations, their indolence is remarkable. The females, who are regarded as an inferior sort of beings, are compelled to do the most laborious work. The Albanians are fond of ornament, and much addicted to dancing. Their native language appears to be founded on the ancient Illyrian ; but, hitherto, no good grammar or dictionary of it has been published. Most of the natives acquire also the Greek tongue. They are divided into Greek Christians, R. catholics, and Mahometans. Pop. estimated at 1,600,000. History. Though Albania has frequently changed its name, its masters, and its boundaries, a people have been embosomed in its mountains from the earliest records of history, whose language and habits have retained unusual traces of nationality. The earliest geographer who mentions the Albani of this district is Ptolemy, and they appear in his time to have been a small tribe of Illyrians. In the 9th and 10th centuries, Albania was included in the great Bulgarian kingdom established south of the Danube; but it was not till the year 1079 that the Albanians began to act an important part in history. From this period, they exercised important influence in the perpetual wars of their neighbours; but, in 1383, they were defeated, for the first time, by the Turks, and again in 1478 their last struggle when Albania became a province of the Turkish dominions, still maintaining, however, a certain degree of stubborn independence, which the Porte has hitherto found it impossible to overcome. (La Turquie d Europe, par Ami Boue*; Count Karaczay, in Jour. Geo. Soc.; Ency. Metrop.} . ALBANO [Latin, Albanum], a tn. Papal States, comarca of, and 14m. S.E. from Rome, on a hill about 900 ft. above the sea level, and on the S. side of the lake of the same name [see next article] ; celebrated for its beautiful scenery and pure air. The modern town occupies part of the grounds of the two villas of Pompey and Dornitian. The most remarkable remains at Albano, however, are those of the amphitheatre of Domitian, mentioned by Suetonius and Juvenal as the scene of the most revolting cruelty of that tyrant. Near the gate of the town, on the side of the road, rises an ancient tomb, said, by some, to be that of Ascanius, the son of yEncas ; but, by others, the sepulchre of Clodius, slain by Milo. The wine of Albano, the produce of the vineyards around the lake, still retains the reputation it had in the days of Horace. The neighbourhood of the town was studded with the villas of the Roman patricians, many of which are still traceable. It is yet much resorted to, in summer, by wealthy Roman families, who have their country seats there. Albano has been the of a bishop since A.D. 460. Adrian IV. (Nicholas Break- speare), the only Englishman who ever filled the papal chair, was Bishop of Albaro for some years previous to his elevation to the pontificate. Pop. 5600. (Murray s Handbook for Central Italy, pp. 503, 501 ; Eustace s Classical Tour through Italy, vol. ii. p. 256.) ALBANO [Latin, Locus Albamis], a lake, Papal States, near the town of Albano, and 13 m. S.E. Rome, of an elliptical shape, upwards of 2 in. in length, and about 6 in circumference ; supposed to occupy the crater of an extinct volcano. Its situation is picturesque, being surrounded with steep crags, mantled with coppice ; while its high banks are covered with tastefully laid out gardens and orchards. But the most remarkable circumstance connected with it, was the formation of the emissary (emissario}, by which the Romans, while engaged in their contest with the Veientes, A.u.c. 359 (B.C. 394), succeeded in lowering the waters, which, they feared, might burst their banks, and destroy the adjacent country. This emissario, or tunnel, is cut mostly through solid rock, at a depth of about 430 ft. beneath the summit of the cliff. Its length is fully 1 m. ; its width, everywhere, at least 4 ft. ; and its height from 7^ to 10 ft. It is carefully built round with solid masonry, and altogether discovers an extraordinary degree of skill and perseverance. Its upper end is nearly on a level with the surface of the lake, or 919 ft. above the sea. It runs under the hill and town of Castul Gandolfo. From the statements of Livy, and from indica tions on the banks of the lake itself, it appears that its waters stood, at one time, about 200 ft. higher than their present level, and discharged themselves by a gully, artificially widened, into a broad canal. ALBANO, or MONTE CAVO [Latin, Mora Albanus], Papal States, the highest point of the chain of mountains which bound the Campagna di Roma on the E. and S. ; nearly 3000 ft. above the level of the sea. On the summit stood the celebrated temple of Jupiter Latialis, built by Tarquin the Proud ; memorable in Roman history as the scene of the FericR Latinw, the solemn assemblies of the 47 cities forming the Latin confederation. The sides of the mountain are covered with fine woods, consisting principally of chestnut trees. The view from the peak is exceedingly beautiful, extending over an immense tract of country. The ascent to it is by the ancient Via Triumphalis ; the road by which the Roman generals, who were allowed the honours of the lesser triumph, or ovation, ascended on foot to the temple of the Latian Jupiter. (Murray s Handbook for Central Italy.) ALBANO (SANT- 1 ), a vil. Sardinian States, in Savoy, 2 m. from Chamberry, on the Aisse. Several antiquities have been found near an old Roman way which passed through it. Pop. 1250. Also the name of a vil., prov. of, and 7 m. W. from Yercelli. ALBAN S (ST.) 05 ALBAN S (ST.), an anc. bor. and market tn. England, Co. Hertford, hun. Casino; 21 m. N.W. London, and 6 m. N E. Watford station, on the London and Birmingham Kail- way. It is situated on the summit and declivity of a small hill, and consists of ten principal and several smaller streets, many of which arc very steep, but all clean and well kept, except ing in the lower parts of the town, where drainage is much neglected. In the older quarters, the lanes and alleys are nar row, and many of the houses ancient ; but, in the newer portion, the openings are more spacious, and the houses, which are all of brick, are well built. The town is well paved, and lighted with gas, and amply supplied with good water. The chief public buildings are the Abbey church, the churches of St. ALBANY females only, the number of inmates being generally about 40. Albany lies near the head of tide water, the Hudson being navigable as far as the city for vessels of 80 tons; and when the navigation is not obstructed by ice, steamers ply daily between it and the city of New York. In 1853 ^the total tonnage that arrived at the port was 87,908. The Erie and Champlain Canals unite about 9 m. N. of the city, where they are connected with a basin covering 32 acres. By these canals, pine from Michigan, Pennsylvania, and Canada, and oak, cherry, and poplar timber from Ohio is brought, rendering Albany one of the largest lumber markets in the world. In 1852 the total imports by canal were 5,487,830, of which the amount for lumber was 1,284,243. Other important Michael and St. Peter, the jail, the clock house, an old Roman articles received the same year were flour, 1,651,789 barrels; watch tower, and the townhall, a large substantial building. wool,4,145,9701bs.;oats,2, 981, 938 bushels; wheat, 1,495,714 There are also several dissenting meeting houses, and a small R. catholic chapel. The charities comprise a free grammar school, founded by Edward VI.; a blue-coat school, in which between 30 and 40 boys are clothed and educated ; a girls school, and several almshouses, the principal of which was established by Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough. There are, besides the schools above enumerated, three daily and Sunday national schools. The principal object of interest in St. Alban s is the Abbey Church, part of a celebrated monastery, founded in 793, by Offa, King of Mercia, one of the Saxon king doms. It stands on an elevated site, and, being a very large and beautiful structure, in the form of a cross, has an imposing appearance. Its architecture is of various styles, comprising that of every age from the time of the Normans to that of Edward IV. ; while the materials of which it is composed are equally heterogeneous. The oldest parts of the building are towards the centre. Its entire length is upwards of 600 ft. from E. to W., including a chapel at the E. end ; its extreme breadth about 200 ft. It contains the ashes of King Offa, and those of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, youngest son of Henry IV. The remains of the celebrated Lord Bacon lie in the church of St. Michael. St. Alban s has little or no trade, and its only manufacture is straw plaiting, and straw bonnet making, both of which, however, are carried on to a consider able extent. There are also silkmills for winding and throw ing silk, which employ a considerable number of hands. The town is governed by a mayor, four aldermen, and 12 council lors, and the usual corporate officers. It returns two members to Parliament, and gives the title of Duke to the family of Beauclcrc. St. Alban s is situated close to the site of the ancient Verulamium (Verulam), parts of the walls of which bushels; barley, 1,386,078 bushels. The New York and Albany Railway, and several other railways connecting Al bany with Boston, and many places to the E., terminate on the opposite side of the river. On the W., the Mohawk and Hudson Railway connects it with several other important lines. Though chiefly noted as a place of trade and of thorough fare, the manufactures of Albany are various, and some of them extensive. They include carriages, hats and caps, morocco leather, ropes, soap and candle, musical instruments, copper, tin, and sheet-iron, oilcloth, stoves, and carpets ; a number of breweries, and some mailing-houses. Numerous steamers and tow-boats ply between Albany and New York, besides other vessels navigating the Hudson. Pop. (1850), 50,703. ALBANY, a small maritime division, E. frontier, colony of Cape of Good Hope, about 550 m. E. Cape Town ; bounded, N.W. by the division of Somerset, W. by Uitenhage, E. and N.E. by the division of Victoria, annexed to the colony of the Cape in 1847, and by the river Kunap; and S. by the Indian Ocean. Its coast line, extending from Great Fish River on the N.E., to Bushman s River on the S.W., is about 35 m. in length. The whole length of the district, from N.W. to S.E., is about 65 m. ; its breadth from 30 to 40. The N. portion of the division is intersected by Great Fish River. The other streams of any note are the Kareega and the Kowie. The prevailing formation is sandstone and gray- wacke ; quartz and clay slate are common. The surface is agree ably diversified, presenting in some parts the rugged features of African scenery; in others, the softness of the champaign districts of England, or continent of Europe. The climate, also, is extremely healthy. Dividing the district nearly through the middle, the lower part, or that nearest the sea, is best are still standing. Registered electors, 541. Pop. of bor. in | suited for agricultural purposes, being free from obstruction 1841, 0240. (Correspondent in St. Alban s.) ALBAN S HEAD (ST.), a headland, or promontory, English Channel, on the coast of Dorsetshire, 441 ft. above the sea. On the cliff, near the top, are the ruins of a chapel supposed to have been erected in the 12th century; lat. 50 35 N. ; Ion. 2 3 W. (R.) ALBANY, a city, U. States, America, co. Albany, cap. of the state of New York, and the second in pop., wealth, and commerce; on the right bank of the Hudson, 132 m N. the city of New York, and 312 m. N.E. Washington; lat. 42 39 3" N. ; Ion. 73 44 49" W. It was founded by the Dutch early in the 17th century; received its present name from the English, to whom it capitulated in 1004; and, next to Jamestown, in Virginia, is the oldest town in the U. States. The site on which it is built is very uneven, rising from a of every kind, and having a soil well adapted for the produc tion of grain of all descriptions. This portion of the country is thickly settled, and is stamped in every part with the dis tinctive marks of an English colony, having a park-like appearance, and being studded with beautiful shrubs and trees, while numerous comfortable-looking farm houses, with neat enclosures, dot the surface of the land. The upper, or N. portion, again, is better suited for sheep rearing, and is considered, on this account, at present as by far the most valu able. In this part of the country there are some mountains of considerable height; the chief of which are N. the Kafir, W. the Fish river, and S.W. the Assegai Mountains. The indigenous trees and bushes of the district are various, and many of them extremely beautiful ; and, as but few of them are deciduous, they retain their beauty during the whole flat alluvial tract on the margin of the river, to a height of [ year. At midsummer, which is there the month of January, 220 ft. above its level. The city has been greatly improved j the plains and valleys are covered with flowers and shrubs of buildings, j the gayest colours, and the most fragrant odour. Useful of late years, and now contains many handsom The principal public edifices are the capitol, or state house, the seat of the Senate and House of Assembly; the Albany academy, a spacious and elegant structure of freestone, accom modating 400 students ; the Albany female academy, with 300 to 350 pupils ; the city hall ; the state hall, for the public offices ; the state arsenal ; the medical college; and about 40 places gayest colours, and the kinds of timber are abundant, and both the soil and climate appear favourable to many of the forest trees of Europe, and also to the fruits both of warm and cold latitudes. The oak and fir are common, and grow rapidly and luxuriantly, attain ing often a large size ; but their timber is more soft and porous than that of colder climates. Orange trees thrive well in of worship, belonging to various denominations. Its literary [ moist situations, and produce fruit of fine quality. Peaches, institutions comprise a public library containing 27,000 nectarines, apricots, mulberries, apples, arid pears, are abund- The volumes; a young men s association for mutual improve ment, consisting of 1500 members, who have a reading-room and library containing 8000 volumes. Amongst the princi ant. Plums are in great variety, but less plentiful. vine is common and prolific, but no good wine has been yet produced here. Melons, and many other plants of a simila pal charities are the Albany orphan asylum, which maintains from 80 to 90 children, male and female ; the poorhouse, and St. Joseph s orphan asylum a R. Catholic institution, but for | scanty and rather insipid. The cotton tree, though not culti- VOL. I. class, thrive exuberantly, and are very productive. Goose berries and currants are not uncommon, but their fruit is ALBANY ALBEREH MOUNTA I NS vated to any extent, succeeds well, and produces cotton of good quality. The most productive of the cereals is maize. Wheat is successfully cultivated, but is subject to rust near | the coast; and is not of such good quality, either in respect to ! colour or weight, as that which is produced more in the interior, or in the W. districts. Barley and oats are abundant ; and kitchen vegetables, of every variety, may be produced in suitable situations. Wine, though of very indifferent qua lity, was formerly the staple produce and export of the district. Wool is now the great object of attention, particularly in the E. district?, where great solicitude is entertained for the im provement of the live stock. The stock of sheep amounts to about 311,000; goats, 84,963; horned cattle, 46,429; horses, 3014. The trade of the district is considerable, extending itself far into the interior to the N., and also along the E. coast. The exports amount to about 100,000 annually; and the imports, of which a considerable portion consists of hides, skins, and tallow, to upwards of 162,000. The quantity of fine wool produced yearly, is upwards of 853,000 lb.- . Manu factures have made little progress, but there are several tanneries, soap works, ai.d tile kilns. Hats, also, are made to some extent, and are much esteemed for their durability. The cap. is Graham s Tow^n (wh ch see), situated nearly in the centre of the division. There are also the towns of Bathurst, Salem, and Port Frances, at the mouth of the river Kowie, which is much impeded at its entrance by sand. Pop. of division, 14,723, of which 6132 are coloured. (Cope of Good Hope Almanac.) ALBANY, a river, Upper Canada, district of same name, which has its source in Lake St. Joseph, about lat. 51 N. ; Ion. 90 W. ; and, after an F.N.E. course of about 380 in., falls into James s Bay (the S. part of Hudson s Bay), by a large estuary, containing many small islands, on one of which is situated Albany fort and factory. Other three trading j houses have been erected on its banks. By affluents from the right, and numerous small lakes, this river gives water j communication with the great Lake Superior; and, likewise, j by streams and lakes to the W. and N., it communicates with Lake Winnipeg. In the estuary is a considerable cataract, j called the Great Fall, there being a smaller one about 40 m. I further up the river. ALBANY ISLES, Australia, N.E. coast; they are six in number, but one only is of considerable size. In Port Albany, in the S.W. of the great island, there is a harbour suitable for large vessels, where drinking water may be obtained. The S.E. peak of this island is in lat. 10 45 S.; Ion. 142 39 E. (n.) ALBASSIN, or ALBASAYKE, called by the Chinese Yaksa, meaning the embouchure of a river, a locality, still given 011 our maps, in the Chinese prov. of Manchooria, on the left bank of the Amoor; lat. 53 N. ; Ion. 122 30 E. It was formerly a Russian fort, occupied during the boundary wars with the Chinese, and appears, subsequently, to have been dignified with the appellation of town. Along with the sur rounding country, Albassin was abandoned by the Russians to the Chinese, at the treaty of Nerchinsk, 1689. Its fort was razed, and we possess no account of it being at present an inhabited localitv. ALBATROSS ISLAND, a small isl. Bass s Strait, Australasia ; lat. 40 22 S. ; Ion. 144 39 E. (R.) It is about 1 m. long, and 125 ft. high, and has obtained its name from the great numbers of albatross by which it is frequented. It abounds also with seals. ALBAY. a prov., tn., and bay, Island of Luzon, one of the Philippines. The PROV. Albay forms the S portion of , the island, and is bounded, W. by prov. Camarincs, and on the other three sides by the sea, its S. coast forming the N. side of Bernardino Pa.-sage, or Strait. This province is fertile and rich, the air is cool, and the roads generally are so good ! as to be suitable for carriages. The mountains which traverse ! Albay are a continuation of the Luzon Cordillera. They are inhabited by two native tribes, Igorrotes and Negritos, and present two remarkable peaks, both volcanoes ; that of Bulusan, in the S., being nearly silent, and, from its isolated i position and conical shape, serving as a landmark to mariners ; and that of Albay, formerly called Mayon, being always active, and subjecting the province to frequent earthquakes. The coasts are irregular, and, in general, bad ; but there are two excellent harbours, the Bay of Albay on the E., and that of Sorsogon on the W. The province is divided into 37 peublos, or parishes, and has a pop. of 123,695. ALBAY, the cap., is hard by the volcano, and about 2 in. from the bay of the same name; lat. 13 22 N. ; Ion. 123 52 E. It is "a large regularly built town, having some stone houses, and a casa reale, a church, a convent, and an administration oi tobacco and wine; and it carried on an active commerce. Pop. 13,115. ALBAY BAY, or GULP, W. coast of the prov., is large and secure, and almost land-locked. North it is protected by the islands of Datu and Rapurapu, between the latter of which and Point Malalabon, on the coast of Luzon, is the entrance to the bay, 4 to 5 m. wide. From Point Malalabon to opposite the town of Albay, is 19 m. ; and the greatest breadth is about 12 in. (Mallat s Philip pines.) ALBAYDA. a tn. Spain, prov. Valencia, 9 m. S. by W. San Felipe; pleasantly situated, tolerably well built, and having two squares, two parish churches, a Latin and two primary schools, an hospital, prison, cemetery, and an extensive old palace of the Marquis of Albayda. The inhabitants are engaged in linen weaving, brandy distilling, and soap boiling, and culti vate grain, grapes, oil, and vegetables. An annual fair U held in July. Pop. 3130. (Madoz.) ALBEGN A (ABBINIA), a river, Italy, Tuscany. It takes its rise on Mount Amiata, about 5 m. E. Castaglione, 3000 ft. above the sea level; and, pursuing a S.W. course for about 38 m., falls into the Mediterranean, after having been aug mented by several tributaries. ALBEMAKLE SOUND, a large inlet, E. coast of N. Carolina, U. States, America, from 4 to 15 ni. in width, and penetrating into the land for about 70 m., 20 of which, and the narrowest part, running nearly due N. It receives the Roanoke and some other rivers, and communicates with Pamlico Sound by two narrow channels, and with Chesapeake Bay by a canal cut through the Great Dismal Swamp. ALBEMARLE is also the name of a co., Virginia, U. States. ALBENDORF, a vil. Prussia, prov. Silesia, gov. of, and 50 m. S.W. from Breslau, and 7 in. N.W. Glatz, near the Bohemian frontier. It is chiefly remarkable as a R. catholic place of pilgrimage. There are here a fine church, numerous chapels, statues, &c., all contributing to a representation of the city of Jerusalem, and history of our Saviour. All the rising grounds in the neighbourhood of the village are made use of, as Calvary, Golgotha, Sion, &c., in order to complete the picture. In 1822, 83,000 pilgrims visited this place. Pop. 1300. (Hulm s Lex. Deutscldand.) ALBENGA, a small maritime tn. Sardinian States, cap. prov. of same name, 44 m. S.W. Genoa, at the mouth of the Centa ; residence of a bishop, suffragan to Genoa, and having a theological seminary. The environs produce oil and hemp in abundance, but the place is considered unhealthy. It is the Allium-Ingaitmim of the Romans ; and some ruins of a rotunda, and an ancient bridge, are still to be seen. Pop. 5000. The PROV. comprises the seven districts of Alassio, Albenga, Caliz- zano, Andora, Loano, and Finale Bergo. Pop. 52,594. ALBENQUE (L 1 ). See LALUE.NQUE. ALBEXS, a small tn. Sardinian States, in Savoy, prov. Genevois, 6 m. N.N.E. Aix, where numerous Roman antiqui ties have been excavated. Pop. 1300. ALBERBURY, or ADBEKBDHV, a par. England, cos. Montgomery and Salop; area, 6040 ac. ; 8 m. W. by N. Shrewsbury. Ruins of New Abbey. Glyn, a hamlet in this par., birthplace of old Parr. Pop. in 1841, 1861. ALBERCA, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 4 m. S. from Murcia, having a parish church, two schools, and a bishop s palace. The inhabitants are exclusively devoted to agricul ture and cattle rearing. Pop. 2406. The name ALBEUCA is also given to a river in Alicante, a mountain in Avila, a town in New Castile, and a village in Leon. (Madoz.) ALBERC1IE, a river, Spain, which, rising in Old Castile, in the sierra de Avila, about 3 m. S. Villafranca, flows E. by S., traversing the province Avila; enters New Castile, and flows S.E. to within 8 m. of Navalcarnero; when, changing to S.W., after a course of about 148 in., and being augmented by numerous tributaries, it falls into the Tagus, about 3 m. E. of Talavera. (Madoz.) ALBERE8 MOUNTAINS, the name of the E. portion of the Pyrenees (which see). ALBERIQUE ALBOX ALBERIQUE, a tn. Spain, Valencia, 11 in. i\. San Felipe, on the high road to Madrid. It is surrounded by a wall and fosse ; has irregular streets ; a principal and four smaller squares ; two parish churches ; an old palace, once the residence of the Dukes del Infantado; a prison; two hospitals ; and several schools. The inhabitants trade in silks, rice, and fruits. A fair is held at midsummer, when large quanti ties of silk are sold. Pop. 3101. (Madoz.) ALBERONA, a tn. Naples, prov. Capitanata, district of, and 21 m. W. from Foggia; situated in a valley. Pop. 2300. ALBERT [formerly Ancre; Latin, Ancora], a small tn. France, dep. Somme, 14 m. N.W. Peronne, and 18 m. N.E. Amiens; on the river Miraumont, an affluent of the Somme. It has cotton and paper mills, printworks, and bleachfields, with a considerable trade in corn and cattle. There is a cave or quarry in the neighbourhood, discovered in 1752, where, within a space of 1100 ft. long, by 6 broad, a great variety of petrifactions (chiefly of marsh plants) are found. Pop. 2828. ALBERT (LAKE), a bight off Lake Alexandrina, or Victoria, S. Australia, connected with the former by a narrow channel. See AUSTRALIA. ALBERT RIVER, N. Australia, falls into the Gulf cf ! Carpentaria; lat. 17 C 30 S. ; Ion. 140 E. See AUSTRALIA Rivers. ALBERTON, a tn., N. Australia, cap. Gipp s Land, on the banks of the Albert river. It is a post town, and petty ! sessions are held in it. ALBI. See ALBY. ALBIANO, a vil. and commune, Italy, in Tuscany, prov. Pisa, 16m. S. by E. Pontremoli, on the slope of a small hill \ which forms the S. projection of Mount Bolano, whose E. base is bathed by the river Magra, which joins the Vara to the S.W. It contains a parish church, and a castle, sur rounded by old turreted walls, once the property of the Marquises of Melaspina, and only approachable by one narrow and steep path. Pop. of vil. and commune, 1213. (Dizio. Univ. Italia.} ALBIGEOIS, formerly a district of France, in the anc. prov. Kuteni ; now in Languedoc, dep. Tarn. ALB1NEN, a vil. in Switzerland, canton Valais, on the N. side of the llhone, from which it is between 4 and 5 m. I distant ; lat. 46 23 N. ; Ion. 7 38 E. It stands on the j summit of a precipice, and is accessible only fiwm the valley below, by ladders placed perpendicularly against the face of the rock. These are ascended and descended by the inhabitants, including women and children, during night as well as day, and often with heavy burdens, without the slightest hesitation, although the ladders arc frequently awry and unsteady, and many of their rounds loose and broken. ALBINO, a tn. Austrian Lombardy, delegation of, and 7 in. N.E. from Bergamo, upon the Serio. It is well built, and remarkable for the palace and beautiful gardens of Count Spini. The parish church is old. It has a normal school, with extensive silk spinning mills, lime and tile kilns, and manufactories of agricultural implements. The district con tains quarries of black marble, and whetstones, of great repute. In Mount Poretto, in the neighbourhood, alabaster is found of surpassing beauty. Pop. 2500. ALBINO, the name given to a variety of the human species, distinguished by the physical peculiarities, an unna tural whiteness of skin, the more remarkable that it occurs most frequently amongst blacks, and tribes generally of a dark complexion ; white and silky hair ; eyes weak and mostly red, but sometimes also blue ; constitution feeble. They are to be met with in various parts of the world, but are perhaps most numerous in Africa ALBION, the anc. name of Great Britain, said to have 1 een given to it on account of the lofty white cliffs on the S. shores of the island. ALBION, the name of several post townships, town ships, and post villages in the U. States: 1, Post township, co. Kennebec, Maine. Pop. 1624. 2, Post township, co. Orleans, of which it is the cap., state of New York, contains a courthouse, jail, clerk s office, Baptist, Methodist, and Pres byterian churches, an academy and female seminary. Pop. 1400. 3, Post vil., co. Calhoun, Michigan. 4, Post vil., co. Edwards, Illinois; it occupies a high and healthy situation, and is settled chiefly by English emigrants. 5, Post vil., 8. Carolina. 6, Township, co. Oswego, Albany. Pop. 1503. 7, Township, co. Calhoun, Michigan. Pop. 932. ALBION (NEW), an extensive tract of land on the N.W. coast of N. America, discovered by Cook, March 7, 1778. This name was originally applied by Sir Francis Drake, in 1578, to California, and part of the coast to the N. ; but recent geographers limit the designation to that part of the coast of the Pacific Ocean which extends between 43 and 48 N. lat. It is wholly included in the U. States territory of Oregon (which see}. ALBIS, a mountain range in Switzerland, canton Zug, running nearly parallel with the S. part of the Lake of Zurich, from which it is distant between 3 and 4 m. The highest summit, called Hiitliberg, attains an elevation of 2792 ft. above the sea level, and commands an extensive view. There are two roads across these mountains, both leading from Zurich to Luzern, one of which, the most northern and the longer, passes under the Hiitliberg; the other, the one now most commonly taken, crosses the high Albis, and is avail able to carriages, unless very heavily laden. The views commanded by this line of route are exceedingly beautiful. ALBISSOLA-MARINA, a vil. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 3 m. N.W. from Savona, on the Mediterranean. It is surrounded by a fertile country, covered with a luxuriant vegetation, and producing fruit in great abundance. ALBLASSERDAM, a vil. Holland, prov. S. Holland, 10 m. S.E. Rotterdam, and 3 m. N. Dordrecht, on the right bank of the Alblas, which is here crossed by a dam; hence the name. It is a well-built village, has a Calvinistic church, a good harbour, and a yearly horse market. Pop. about 1200. (Van der Aa s Ncdciianden.) ALBOCACER, a tn. Spain, in Valencia, prov. of, and 32 m. N.W. by N. Castellon de la Plana, on the W. declivity of the sierra Engarceran. It is indifferently built, with steep and irregular, though wide streets, and possesses a large and handsome parish church, several chapels, a townhouse, prison, hospital, two schools, a public storehouse, and cemetery. Manufactures: Linen and woollen fabrics, hardware and earthenware. Produce of vicinity: Grain, wine, oil, fruits, vegetables, silk, wax, and honey; sheep, goats, horned cattle, and pigs. Iron is found here, but not wrought ; and several valuable marble quarries exist in the neighbouring mountains, on which, likewise, in many places, oak, beech, pine, and other hardy trees are plentiful. Pop. 1834. (Madoz.) ALBOLODREY, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 20 m. N.N.W. from Almeria, on the left bank of the river Almeria. It is built on hilly ground, but still regular, having three squares, a church, some schools, a townhall, prison, and the ruins of an old fortress. The inhabitants are engaged principally in tillage, cattle rearing, and as carriers; and occa sionally a portion are employed in the lead mines of the sierra de Gador. Pop. 2067. (Madoz.) ALBONA, a small tn. Austria, prov. lllyria, near the Gulf of, and about 22 m. S.W. from the tn. of Fiume. It lies in the midst of a rocky district, unsuited for the cultivation of grain, but abounding in excellent fruit, especially grapes, olives, and chestnuts. Pop. 1550. ALBOR, one of the Bahama Islands, between the islands Neque and St. Salvador. ALBOR AN, a small isl. Spain, Mediterranean; prov. of, and 66 m. S.S.W. from Almeria ; lat. 35 58 N.; Ion. 3 1 W.(R.) It is about 2 m. long, 1 m. broad, low, flat, uncultivated, and inhabited by a few fishermen only. On its S. side is a roadstead, resorted to by smuggling, piratical, and fishing vessels. ALBOURN, a par. England, co. Sussex, 2 m. N.W. Hurst Picrpoint; aroa, 1280 ac. Pop. in 1841, 395. ALBOX, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 40 m. N.N.E. from Almeria, agreeably situated on the banks of the rivulet called Rambla de Oria, which divides the tn. into the two quarters of San Francisco, and La Lcma, the latter of which is chiefly inhabited by mechanics. It has several good streets, a fine square (the Plaza de la Constitucion), and a smaller one, with a central fountain. The principal public buildings are two rather handsome churches; some schools; a well-endowed hospital for infirm poor and foundlings, founded in 1764; a fine townhall; and a small prison. It also has ALBRIGHTON ALCALA DE GUADAIRA several fountains, ami two cemeteries. The manufactures are blankets, coarse linen and hempen fabrics, earthenware jars, dishes, and plates; and connected with the town there are several corn and oilmills. The exports are considerable quantities of oil and corn; and the imports, wine and brandy. A fair lasts from November 1 to 15; and there are weekly markets. Pop. 7425. (Madoz.) ALBRIGHTON, a par. England, co. Salop ; area, 2970 ac. Here are several charities, and two annual cattle fairs. Pop. iu 1841, 1058. ALBUERA, a river, Spain, prov. Badajos, rising in the mountains about 5 m. W. la Parra; and, flowing N., empties itself into the Guadiana, 9 m. E. Badajos, after a course of about 50 m. (Madoz.) ALBUERA, a vil. Spain, in Estremadura, on a river of its own name, an affluent of the Guadiana, 13 m. S. by E. Badajos. having only 450 inhabitants; but celebrated in military history, as having been the scene of a sanguinary conflict, May 1(5, 1811, between the French under Soult, and the Anglo-Spanish army under Lord Beresford, in which the former was defeated. In this battle the French lost 8000 men, and the allies 7000, all within the short space of four hours. ALBUFE1RA, or ALBOFEIRA, a small seaport and tn. Portugal, on the S. coast of prov. Algarve, 13 m. E.S.E. Silves, and 29 m. E. Lagos, at the head of a bay of its own name ; built on the edge of a high rock on the shore, enclosed with a turreted wall, and defended by a battery on the beach. It lies between two hills, on very uneven ground; is abomin ably dirty, and has a church, hospital, and about 3000 inhabit ants, chiefly fishermen. (Willkomm s Zwei Jakre in Por tugal.) ALBUFERA, a lagoon, Spain, prov. of, and 10 m. S. from Valencia, about 10 m. long, and 25 in circuit, separated from the sea only by a narrow strip of land. It swells in winter, and is then a complete preserve for fish and wild fowl, of which last, no less than 70 varieties frequent it. Its banks are thickly studded with rice plantations, the cultivation of which is very destructive to life. This lake and domain, valued iu 1833 at 300,000, Avas conferred on Marshal Suchet, by Napoleon, together with the dukedom of Albufera, as a reward for his capture of Valencia. The property, however, was soon afterwards restored to the Valencians, by the Duke of Wellington. ALBULA, a mountain and river in Switzerland, both in the Grisons, the former occurring in that portion of the Uhaetian Alps, by which the E. part of the canton is intersected; lat. 46 37 N. ; Ion. 9 53 E. It presents two lofty peaks, one of which, Crap Alv, or White Rock, is 7560 ft. in height, the other on the S.E., called Piz Err, is 8770 ft. high. There is a pass over this mountain, the culminating point of which, marked by a cross, is G980 ft. above the sea level. Some parts of this pass are dangerous, fragments of broken rocks often hurling down from the heights above, and in spring avalanches are to be apprehended, while nearly the whole pass is one scene of complete desolation. The river ALIHJ- L.V proceeds from a small lake near the foot of the mountain, and after flowing for about 25 m. in a N.N. W. direction, falls into the II inter- Ithein, 2 m. N. from Tusis. ALBUNOL, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. Granada, 35 m. W. by S. Almeria, near the coast of the Mediterranean. It is well built; has clean, paved streets, a good square, church, three schools, a storehouse, two prisons, and several convents. The inhabitants are engaged in preparing wine, raisins, figs, and almonds ; in husbandry, cattle rearing, carrying, and fish ing; and in distilling. They export fruits, wine, and spirit of wine ; and import grain, wood, and colonial produce. Pop. ALBUQUERQUE, a tn. of the Mexican Republic, prov. New Mexico, situated to the W. of the sierra Obscura, on the left bank of the Rio del Norte; 50m. S.W. Santa Fe. It is famed for the beauty of its women. Pop. 6000. ALBUQUERQUE, a tn. Spain, Estremadura, 23 m. N. by W. Badajos, and close on the fromier of Portugal. It is a miserable decayir.g place, with three or four squares, two parish churches, two schools, two hospitals, a prison, and several public fountains. Its manufactures are linen, sombrero hats, potteryware, soap, and chocolate. In the vicinity, grain, wine, oil, honey, fruits, vegetables, and flax, are raised in abundance. An annual fair is held in September. Pop. 5470. (Madoz.) ALBURG1I, a par. England, co. Norfolk; area, 1430 ac.; 4 in. E. by N. Harleston. Pop. in 1841, 589. ALBURY, or ALDBURY, a par. England, co. Oxford; area, 1250 ac.; 3 m. N.\V. Tetsworth. Pop. in 1841, 244. ALBURY, or ALOEUBURY, a par. England, co. Surrey ; area, 4920 ac. ; 5 m. S.E. Guild ford ; fund for apprenticing poor children. Pop. in 1841, 1079. ALBY, a par. England, co. Norfolk; area, 840 ac.; 4 m. N. by E. Aylsham. Pop. in 1841, 299. ALBY, or ALBI [Latin, Albiya, Alba Augusta], an anc. city, France, cap. dep. Tarn, on the left bank of the Tarn river, on a hill in the midst of the plain of Languedoc, 338 m. S. Paris, and 42 m. N.E. Toulouse. It is the seat of an arch bishop ; is very ill built, the streets being narrow, irregular, and dirty, and the houses all of brick. Its squares are few, and not remarkable, excepting that in the new quarter of Vignan, which is large and regular, not to say fine. The promenades and avenues which terminate in this square are charming, and are designated the Lists of Albi. They were formerly separated from the ramparts of the city by a broad ditch; and in them used to assemble, during the times of chi valry, the knights of all the surrounding country, to take part | in the tourneys of the times. The ditch is now filled up, and the ramparts thrown down, so that the suburbs now form part . of the town, and tend much to beautify it. In all quarters of j Albi there are numerous fountains of excellent water. The principal building is the cathedral of St. Cceile, a Gothic brick edifice, begun in 1282, and not completed till 1512. Other important edifices are, the church of St. Salvi, the courthouses, and the general hospital, which last is indeed a very fine structure. Besides a tribunal of commerce, and a communal college, there are in the town a museum of natural i history ; a society of rural economy, trade, and statistics ; and | a public library of more than 12,000 volumes ; also a theatre and barracks. The manufactures are of coarse linen cloths, sacking, cottons, table cloths, handkerchiefs, hats, cord, tools, files, scythes, and wax candles. Woad (pastel) has been made here from a very early period. In the neighbourhood are copper, glass, and paper works, and a foundry for casting bullets. The town suffered much in the religious wars of France; and from it the Protestant reformers of the 12th and 13th centuries, called the Albigcnses, took their name. Pop. in 1846, 14,211. ALCACER-DO-SAL [Salt castle], a tn. Portugal, prov. Estremadura, on the right bank of the Sada; 55 m. E.S.E. j Lisbon, in the midst of an extensive plain ; is enclosed by walls, and defended by a fortress on a steep rock. It has some churches, an hospital, two schools, and a prison ; and, on | the banks of the river, are numerous salt pans. Considerable quantities also of sedgemats and rushbrooms are made here, chiefly for the Lisbon market, and much corn is sent hence down the river for Sctubal and Lisbon. During the war of succession in Portugal, the town and castle were taken alter nately by the contending parties. Pop. 1909. ALCALA DE CHIVERT, a tn. Spain, Valencia, prov. of, and 30 m. N.N.E. from Castcllon do la Plana ; in a pleasant valley on the road from Barcelona to Valencia. The streets are narrow and tortuous; the public buildings com- Erise a church of modern architecture, three schools, an ospital, asylum, townhouse, and jail. There are two tobacco I factories, five brandy distilleries, and some oilmills, in the town. The vicinity produces grain, wine, oil, honey, wax, fruits, and vegetables ; and game is plentiful. Pop. 4950. (Madoz.) \ ALCALA DE GUADAIRA, or DE Los PANEDEUOS | [anc. Ilienipaa, place of many springs], a tn. Spain, in Anda lusia, prov. of, and 6 m. E.S.E. from Seville, on the Guadaira, crossed here by a stone bridge of seven arches. It stands near the river, and is overlooked by the ruins of an ancient fortress, crowning the summit of an adjacent eminence, the site of an old Moorish town, once surrounded by walls, with a dcej) and wide fosse. It comprises four squares, and several tolerably constructed, though steep streets; two parish churches, with cemeteries attached ; municipal offices ; two general hospitals ; a lying-in hospital, and house of refuge ; three primary schools; a prison; abattoir; arid several public storehouses. The manufactures are earthenware, brick. ALCALA DE HENAEES ALCANIZ soap, and coarse cloth ; and, connected with the town, are flourmills ; but the place is chiefly noted for its bread, reputed the best in Spain, being remarkably white and fine flavoured, and so much esteemed, that 130 mules are daily employed in conveying it to Seville. There are, at least, 50 bakeries in the town. The vicinity produces grain, wine, oil, fruits, vegetables, honey, and silk. Sheep, horned cattle, and a few goats and pigs, are reared ; and, in the neighbouring hills, are several quarries of granite and freestone ; and numerous tunnels, some two leagues in length, whence flows the purest water, which is conveyed to Seville, first in a brick caiieria, and, uently, by an uct of 400 arches, called the I Canos de Carmona, from its contiguity to the highroad to that city. Pop. 6700. (Madoz, Diccio. de Espaiia.} ALCALA DE HENAEES, or DE SAN JUSTO (anc. Complutum), a city, Spain, in New Castile, prov. of, and 16 in. E N.E. from Madrid, and about 1 m. from the right bank of the llenares. It has an imposing appearance when ALCALA DEL JUCAE, a tn. Spain, in Murcia, in a rocky locality on the left bank of the Jucar, 19 m. N. by W. Albacete; a gloomy, dirty, and unhealthy place, with narrow, steep, and tortuous streets ; having a parish church, two endowed schools, and a prison. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in tillage, and domestic weaving. The vicinity produces grain, oil, vegetables, and some fruits ; mules and asses are numerous. Pop. 2883. (Madoz.) ALCALA DE LOS GAZULES, a tn. Spain, in Anda lusia, on the slope of the Ronda mountains, prov. of, and 37 m. E. by S. from Cadiz. It is situated at a height of 2530 ft. above the sea, and comprises an old and new town, the former of which is partly enclosed by a ruined wall ; a few wide, well- built streets, with others narrow and tortuous ; three spacious squares, a parish church, chapel of ease, three schools, two hospitals, barracks, storehouse, and several handsome foun tains. Close to the town also are the remains of an old castle. The surrounding country is rugged and bleak, suitable only for pasture. The inhabitants exhibit but little industry or activity. Pop. 6120. (Madoz.) ALCALA DEL EIO, a tn. Spain, in Anda lusia, prov. of, and 8 m. N. from Seville, on the Guadalquivir, having a parish church, and chapel, two endowed schools, a townhall, a pri son, and storehouse. The inhabitants are em ployed in tillage and pasturage ; the produce of the vicinity being grain, fruits, and vegetables; sheep, goats, and horned cattle. Pop. 2820. (Madoz.) ALCALA-LA-EEAL, a city, Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 30 m. S.W. from Jaen ; in a glen on the N. side of the Granada moun tains, at a height of above 2700 ft. above the sea level. It is irregularly built, with steep and narrow streets ; but has a large square, orna mented with a fountain. The chief public build ings are two parish churches ; a chapel of ease ; a town and courthouse ; a Latin, and six primary schools; a civil hospital, formerly a fine abbey ; storehouse, prison, several convents ; and a tower, containing the first clock made in Spain. The inhabitants are principally engaged in agricul- viewed from a distance ; but, on nearer inspection, is found ture ; and in the city there are three soap factories, and two to be m a state of decay. It is enclosed by crumbling walls, j brandy distilleries. The vicinity produces grain, fruits, and and the houses are mean, and in a ruinous condition. It vegetables, of the finest quality, and in great abundance, ee pretty large squares, one of which, the Plaza Sheep, goats, pigs, and horned cattle, are reared, though in too limited numbers for the consumpt of the people. Fruits and grain are exported ; and wearing apparel, cloth, cotton fabrics, iron, hardware, rice, and oil, are imported. Pop. 11,521. (Madoz.) ALCAMO, a tn. Sicily, prov. Trapani, situated in the val di Mazzara, on the high road between Palermo and Trapani, from which latter town it is distant 25 m. E. Its situation on a height is pleasant and commanding, and it is surrounded with entire forests of olive trees. The streets are dirty and ill paved. Near Alcamo are the ruins of the ancient Seyesta, including the remains of a magnificent theatre, and temple. The district of Alcamo is divided into four cantons Alcamo, Castel a Mare, Palatafimi, and Gibellina. Pop. 15,834. ALCANADEE, a river, Spain, Aragon, which rises in the sierra de Guara, near Voltana, prov. Huesca ; flows S. and S.E., and, after receiving several affluents, joins the Cinca at Vallovar, 17 m. W. by S. Lerida, after a course of about 60 m. ALCANAE, a tn. Spain, Catalonia, prov. Tarragona, 19 m. S. T.ortosa. It has a church, endowed school, and cemetery. The inhabitants are employed in domestic weav ing, expressing oil, and cultivating the grain, fruits, and vegetables, which abound in the vicinity ; wheat is exported ; implements of husbandry are imported. Pop. 3022. (Madoz.) ALCANEDE, a tn. Portugal, prov. Estremadura, comarca of, and 13 in. N. from Santarem, with a strong castle on a rock. Pop. 1640. ALCANIZ, a city, Spain, Aragon, prov. of, and 66 in. N.E. from Teruel, and about the same distance S.E. Saragossa, de Cervantes, is ornamented with trees, and a fountain; another, the Plaza de Toros, comprises a respectable town- hall, and some large storehouses, and two pretty alamedas. i The other public buildings include the magnificent Gothic church, El Magistral, with three others ; a theatre, hospital, barracks, and riding school ; with a handsome palace, belong ing to the Archbishop of Toledo. The largest, however, and in some respects, the finest edifice in the place, is the Col- legio Mayor de San Ildefonso, founded in 1510, and richly en dowed by Cardinal Ximenes. A university was established here once, second only to Salamanca, having 19 colleges, and 10,000 students ; reduced to about 400, previous to its removal to Madrid. The Collegio has three squares, and a magnificent chapel, containing the tomb of the founder, with his effigy the masterpiece of Dominico el Florentine ; the building, however, like many others in "Spain, was never finished. Here was printed, at the expense, and under the direction of the Cardinal, the far-famed Complutensian Poly- glott, 6 vols. folio, 1502-1517. It was not published till 1522, the expense exceeded the then enormous sum of 52,000 ducats (11,112), and only 600 copies were printed, of which three only were on vellum ; and one of which subsequently sold for 522 ! Alcala has very little industrial activity; it supplies the capital with much of its bread, and has also tan neries, soap works, chocolate mills, and manufactures of coarse woollen fabrics, with two well-attended fairs, in linen and August and November. Alcala numbers among the distin guished individuals to whom it has given birth, Cervantes, the celebrated author of Don Quixote ; the Emperor Ferdinand, 1 ___ 4.1 ___ ^1? m ___ 1~_ -IT- .1 , Tl. 1 ,1 cm 1 IT" il I-. i - L "- 1 ^- i*^*" J- Cl UC1, clliu rtUULU M : I < -| O . I, . .^;|I . t ^ < >>>i[ , brother of Chares V.; the poet Figuerroa; and Antonio de on a rising ground on the right bank of the Guadaloupe, here holis, he historian of the conquest of Mexico. Pop. in 1768, crossed by a substantial stone bridge of seven arches. It estimated by Estrada at 22,000, now diminished to 39G8 comprisesnine squares, and numerous well-constructed, paved, (Madoz, Dicey, de E.yana.} \ and spacions streetS) lincd with eclifice5] scveral of wllich have ALCANTARA ALCAUDETE considerable architectural merit. The public buildings arc a so finely wrought as to sell for 6 or 8 each. There are magnificent collegiate church, with many fine tombs and pic- ] some salt pits within a few miles of the town, which were once tures ; three parish churches, a tov nhouse, a large Gothic , profitably worked by the Jesuits, to whom they belonged, but guildhall, ecclesiastical courthouse, police office, college; are now much neglected. In former times, Alcantara was Latin, and four ether schools; hospital, secure and well- the capital of the capitania of Cuma. ventilated prison, cavalry barracks, storehouse; several con- j ALCANTARILLA, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 5 m. S.W. vents, one of which is used as an infantry barracks ; and from Murcia, on a rising ground, about 1 m. from the right theatre. A public promenade, 1 m. in length, ornamented bank of the river Scgura, having a parish church, two endowed with trees and shrubs, and having a fountain of good water, j schools, and an hospital. The people manufacture soap, and affords scope to the citizens for recreation. The manufactures are silk, worsted, coarse linen, hats, gypsum, and soap ; there are also flour and oilmills. The exports consist of grain, silk, wool, and oil ; and the imports of wine, hardware, cotton fabrics, and leather. The vicinity produces abundance of grain, fruits, and vegetables, silk, wool, honey, and wax. Sheep and a few goats are reared, but there are few cattle fed. Two annual fairs are held in June and August for grain, cattle, and general merchandise. Pop. 5100. (Madoz.) ALCANTARA, a river in the E. part of Sicily, having cultivate grain, fruits, vegetables, and flax. A few domestic cattle are reared. Pop. 348 1 . (Madoz.) ALCARAZ, a city, Spain, in New Castile, prov. of, and 43 m. S.W. from Albacete, on the E. slope of an isolated hill, on the left of the river Guadarmena, overlooked by a ruinous castle, which crowns the summit, and commanded on the N., S., and E. by mountains of greater altitude, called the sierra de Alcaraz. The city has seven approaches, leading into four principal streets, which converge in the Plaza mayor, or central square ; and it has a second square, some very steep its rise in the Neptunian mountains, and its embouchure 5 m. I streets and lanes, three parish churches, an endowed school, S.S.W. from Taormina, on the S.E. coast of the island. Its ! substantial townhouse, hospital, and numerous convents, with whole course is about 36 m. in length. j churches attached, one of which is used as a jail. The ALCANTARA (anc. Norba Ccesarea], a fortified tn. Spain, inhabitants are employed in weaving, iron founding, tillage, Estremadura, prov. of, and 33 m. AV.N.W. from Caceres, and cattle feeding. They export fruit, and the produce of on the summit of a rocky acclivity, on the left bank of the ! their looms ; and import oil, wine, and other requisites, by Tagus, surrounded by old walls mounted with cannon, and j mules. The vicinity produces grain, fruits, vegetables, having five gates. On the E. side is the castle, containing a j hemp, and flax ; and affords good pasturage for sheep, goats, tower of fealty, and having a subterranean communication with j pigs, and horned cattle; in the neighbouring sierra, zinc, the Tagus, whence an abundant supply of water is obtained. The town comprises two principal, and several smaller squares, and numerous narrow, steep, and, for the most part, ill-built streets. It has two parish churches, one of which is a large Gothic pile; a townhall, several schools, a custom house, hospital, prison, some convents ; the hereditary mansions of the Marquis de Torre Orgaz, Count de Canilleros, and the Viscount de la Torre ; and a barrack for veterans. Since the last war with Portugal, the manufacturing industry of this town has been reduced to a little weaving, tanning, and the mechanical productions requisite for the population. Its commerce consists in exporting wheat and barley to Zarza and Ceclavin, of rye and wool to Portugal, and of oil to the interior of the peninsula ; and in importing wearing apparel, linen, and colonial produce. The vicinity abounds in grain, wine, oil, fruits, vegetables, honey, and wax ; and depastures considerable numbers of sheep, goats, cattle, pigs, horses, and mules. Alcantara was, in 1214, taken from the Moors by Alonso calamine, and copper exist, but they are not wrought. Pop. 7325. (Madoz.) ALCASSAR, or AL-KASK, a tn. Morocco, prov. Fez, on the Wad al Khos, 25 m. S.E. El-Araish ; lat. 35 1 N.: Ion. 5 49 W. It lies so low as to be entirely flooded in winter, and it is described as still a considerable place ; but dirty, straggling, and dilapidated, containing 10 or 15 mosques, of which two only are fit for use. The artizans are Jews, and the merchants Moors. A number of storks, esteemed sacred by the Mussulmans, are allowed the range of the town, perching without molestation on the roofs of the houses and mosques. Alcassar is surrounded by gardens and orchards, and by a flat tract of rich meadow land. About 6 m. N. Alcassar, near the Wad Emhagen, or Elmahassen. was fought, in 1578, a memorable battle between Don Sebastian, King of Portugal, and the Moors, in which the former and the flower of his army were slain. ALCASSAR CEGUER, a small fortified vil. Morocco, prov. Fez, on the Strait of Gibraltar, at its narrowest part VIII. of Castile, and given to the knights of Calatrava, to I between Ceuta and Tanger. Built in the 12th century by whom were subsequently united the military order of monks j Jacob Almanzor, it was taken, in 1468, by Alphonzo, King of called de San Juan dePereyrf, founded by Suero Rodriguez I Portugal, but abandoned soon after by the Portuguese, and Barrientos, in 1156; their noble convent, San Benito, built of! re-occupied by the Moors. granite, still remains, though ruinous, and in its church some pictures by Morales. The Portuguese general, Lapisse, in 1809, occupied the town one night, which was employed in the commission of the most wanton barbarities ; since then, its dilapidated convents, and roofless houses, alone indicate its former grandeur. The bridge in its vicinity, built for Trajan, A.D. 105, is worthy its founder, and has survived the violence of men and elements for 17 centuries ; at its entrance is a chapel dedicated to Trajan, with some verses inscribed, which one couplet record the name of its architect, Caius Julius L:tcer : Poiifcm pcrpetui, mansnrutn in secula Fecit diuiiii imbilis :irt<: Lacer. The bridge was partly blown up, in 1809, by Col. Mayne, but repaired, in 1812, by Col. Sturgeon. Pop. 4273. (Madoz.) ALCANTARA, a seaport, Brazil, prov. of, and 20 m. N.W. from Maranham, across the Bay of St. Marcos, on a semicircular hill, on the W. side of which the town is situated ; lat. 2 23 33" S.; Ion. 44 22 59" W. (L.) It is defended by a fort, and many of the houses are built of stone, and are two stories high, though for the most part they have only a ground floor. It has five churches, two convents, a townhall, a prison, and a quay; but, as a whole, the town is in a very dilapidated state, and the streets are overgrown with weeds, while its general aspect indicates decay. more wealthy residents are the proprietors of cotton plantations ; the poorer classes gain a live ALCATRAZ, or ALCATRAS, a small rocky islet on the W. coast of Africa, about 50 m. W.N.W. the embouchure of the river Nunez; lat. 10 37 N.; Ion. 15 21 W. (R.) It is of volcanic origin, about 40 ft. in height, deeply rent with fissures, and is entirely destitute of vegetation, but is covered with boobies (Pelicanvs snla), who maintain a deafening clamour in the night. Turtle also are numerous, but are not easily caught. The sea around is crowded with sharks, so fierce, says Capt. Belcher, that they attack the oars, and frequently leave the marks of their teeth in them. ACLATR AZES, or ALCATRASSES, a group of barren rocks, E. coast, S. America, 20 m. from the mainland ; lat. 24 6 S.; Ion. 45 40 W. (if.) ; 30 m. S.W. the island of St. Sebastian, and 180 S.W. Kio Janeiro. It is recommended that vessels should not approach nearer to these rocks than 4 or 5 m., and that only with a fair wind. ALCAUDETE [anc. Unditunum], a tn. Spain, in Anda lusia, prov. of, and 26 m. W.S.W. from Jacn, on a declivity at the junction of three hills, which nearly enclose the space it occupies ; overlooked by the ruins of an ancient castle, and comprising a large polygonal Plaza, and numerous tolerably- built streets, the most of which arc paved ; two churches, town and courthouses, four schools, a prison, two hospitals, an orphan asylum, public storehouse, baths, fountains, and several convents with churches attached, in some of which are preserved fine pictures, and other works of art. The inhabitants are occupied in making oil, working bassmats lihood by fishing, and making hammocks ; some of which are and ropes, in domestic weaving, and in agriculture. They ALCAZAR DE SAN JUAN 71 ALCOY export grain and oil ; and import silk, cotton, linen, and woollen fabrics, and hardware. In the vicinity, grain, fruit, and vegetables are grown, and silk is produced ; considerable numbers of sheep, goats, pigs, horned cattle, mules, and asses, are reared, for which, and other mercantile purposes, an annual fair is held in August. Pop. 6240. (Madoz.) ALCAZAR DE SAN J UAN, a tn. Spain, in New Castile, prov. La Mancha, 45 m. N.E. Ciudad Heal ; regularly built, and having two good squares, with three churches, some ruined convents, several schools, an hospital, two prisons, barracks, and a theatre. Manufactures : Soap, saltpetre, and chocolate, of which some is exported. The imports consist of wine, oil, hardware, and wearing apparel. The vicinity produces grain and fruits ; some sheep and mules, are reared, and a fair is held in September. Pop. 7540. (Madoz.) ALCESTE ISLAND, a small isl. in the Yellow Sea, off ALCOENTRE, a small tn. Portugal, prov. Estremadura, comarca of, and 20 m. S.W. from Santarem. It is within the lines of Torres Vedras, and was occupied by the English troops during the peninsular war. ALCOLEA, the name of several towns and villages in Spain: I, Alcolea de calatrava, a tn. New Castile, prov. of, and 12 m. W. by N. from Ciudad Real, having a square, parish church, townhall, prison, two schools, a storehouse, and cemetery, with an agricultural pop. of 1200. 2, Alcolea de cinca, a tn. Aragon, prov. of, and 35 m. from Huesta, in a plain on the right bank of the river Cinca; well built and paved, with two squares, a parish church, townhouse, two schools, prison, granary, and cemetery. Weaving, tillage, and carrying, employ the inhabitants ; who import wine, hard ware, and wearing apparel, and export fruits, &c. An annual cattle fair is held in October. Pop. 1200. 3, Alcolea de las the N. shore of the promontory of Shan-tung, and near its E. penas, a tn. New Castile, prov. Guadalajara, 10 m. N. by W. extremity; lat. 37 29 N. ; Ion. 122 42 E. (R.) A reef Siguenza; ill built, with a church, school, townhouse, prison, stretches round it for about half a mile, some parts of which appear above water. There is another isl. of the same name in the Korean Archipelago, about 110 m. N.W. from Quel- paert; lat. 34 7 N. ; Ion. 125 21 E. (n.) ALCESTE is also the name of a rock in Caspar Straits, in which H.M.S. Alceste struck, and was wrecked, Feb. 18, 1817, when re turning from China with Lord Amherst and suite. No lives were lost on the occasion. The rock is in lat. 2 46 S. ; Ion. 107 2 E. (R.) ALCESTER, or ALNECESTER, a market tn. and par. England, co. Warwick, the former in a fertile vale, at the confluence of the Alne with the Arrow, from the former of which it derives its name, 13 m. W.S.W. Warwick. It con sists of one principal street, and several smaller ; and contains many old houses, a fine church, and a handsome townhouse. The manufacture of needles is carried on to a considerable extent, and it has a good trade in corn and malt. A free grammar school was founded here in 1594. The principal charities are an endowed school for 12 boys and as many girls, and an agricultural pop. of 180. 4, Alcolea del no, a tn. Andalusia, prov. of, and 25 m. W.N. W. from Seville ; tolerably built, and having a church, two schools, and a prison, with a farming pop. of 1707 5, Alcolea-del-Tajo, a tn. New Castile, prov. Toledo, 17 m. S.W. by W. Talavera de la Keyna; well built, comprising a church, school, prison, and townhall. Pop. 160. There are several other inconsiderable villages called ALCOLEA. (Madoz.) ALCONBURY, or ALKMUNDBURY, a par. England, co. Huntingdon ; area, 3700 ac.; an annual fair for pedlars ware, June 24 ; intersected by Alconbury brook, a branch of the Ouse. Pop. in 1841, 823. ALCONBURY-W1TH-WESTON, a par. England, co. Huntingdon ; area, 1540 ac. ; 6 m. N.W. Huntingdon. Pop. in 1841,491. ALCONCHEL, a tn. Spain, in Estremadura, prov. of, and 25 m. N.N.E. from Badajos, on the slope of a hill. It is meanly built, and is overlooked by an old castle. It contains a church, some schools, a townhall, and small prison. The inhabitants and several almshouses. The town is supposed to have been are employed chiefly in tending cattle, raising corn, and a Roman station, having been built on the site of the old Roman way called Ickenild Street, now known as Ickle Street. Various coins, urns, and other remains of antiquity, have been found in the neighbourhood. Pop. in 1841, 239 ( J. ALCIRA, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 25 m. S. by W. from Valencia, on an isl. formed by two arms of the river Jucar, weaving coarse linen and woollen cloths. The agricultural produce of the neighbourhood is very abundant, and the fruits fine-flavoured ; an annual fair is held in May. Pop. 2020. ALCORA, a tn. Spain, in Valencia, prov. of, and 10 m. N.N.W. from Castellon de la Plana. It is, on the whole, well built, and has a church, four chapels, several schools, here crossed by two stone bridges, one of two and the other two hospitals, an asylum, and municipal house. The inhabit- of four arches. It is surrounded by old walls flanked by ! ants are much engaged in potteries and brandy distilleries, strong towers, with several gates, and has some squares, and I In the neighbourhood are found considerable quantities o( numerous wide, though ill-built streets, a Gothic parish church, conventual churches, townhouse and guildhall, with jail at tached ; a Latin, and four other schools ; an hospital, cemetery, promenade, and many public gardens, adorned with fruit trees, shrubs, and flowers. The occupation of the inhabitants is confined chiefly to the manufacture of earthenware, the pro duction of silk, and the cultivation of their fertile soil, which yields grain, wine, oil, fruits, and vegetables, in great abund ance ; and in the export of which articles, especially silk, their trade consists. Two annual fairs are held in July and December, for cattle and general traffic. Pop. 13,000. (Madoz.) ALCISTON, a par. England, co. Sussex ; area, 1620 ac.; 4| m. N.E. Seaford. Pop. in 1841, 2?5. ALCOBA (SERRA DE), a chain of mountains in Portugal, prov. Beira, and extending S. into the comarcas of Coimbra and Viseu, between the Mondego and Vouga rivers. ALCOBACA, a small market tn. Portugal, and cap. of comarca, prov. Estremadura; 58 m. N. Lisbon; 15 m. S.W. Leiria; not far from the sea, and near the junction of the small rivers Alcoa and Ba9a, whence its name. It has five churches, and is celebrated for its magnificent Cistercian monastery, the richest in Portugal, founded in 1148 by Don Alphonso 1., and containing the tombs of several kings ; and, among others, of Don Pedro and his ill-fated wife, Inez de Castro, whose praise has been sung by Camoens. The kitchen is nearly 1 00 ft. long, and 63 ft. high ; and its fireplace is 28 ft. long, and 1 1 ft. broad. Alcobaca is the seat of several manufactories. Its industry comprises the manufacture of cotton fabrics, muslins, fustians, and wool. The Marquis de Pombal, also, when prime minister, established 250 cotton looms in the monastery. Pop. 1353. cinnabar and sulphur; and silk is cultivated. The agricul tural productions are grain, fruits, vegetables, hemp, oil, and grapes, which are exported. An annual cattle fair is hold in October. Pop. 5600. (Madoz.) ALCOTIM, or ALCOUTIN, a tn. Portugal, prov. Algarve, comarca of, and 23 m. N.E. from Tavira, upon a height 01, the right bank of the Guadiana. It is enclosed within old walls, and prettily situated on the margin of the river, at the foot of a mountain, on which is a castle in ruins. Pop. 1561. ALCOVER, a tn. Spain, in Catalonia, prov. of, and 10m. N. from Tarragona, on the Angura, comprising two churches, two schools, an hospital, and several fountains. The inhabit ants are engaged in making earthenware and soap, distilling brandy, and cultivating the grain, wine, oil, fruits, and veget ables of the vicinity ; some cattle are reared, and an annual fair held in October. Pop. 2812. (Madoz.) ALCOY, a large tn. Spain, in Valencia, prov. of, and 24 m. N. by W. from Alicante, near the source of a river of its own name, crossed here by a Roman bridge. It lies in a hollow, formed by the slopes of the surrounding hills, and is remark able for its antique, picturesque-looking houses, overhanging the terraced gardens and ravines. It is enclosed by clay walls, which were much damaged by shot during the last civil war; and is entered by numerous gates, four stone bridges serv ing as means of communication between the different quarters. It contains many modern buildings a rare case in the towns of Spain ; and the Plaza de la Constitucion may vie with most squares out of the first class of Spanish cities. The streets are regular, well paved, and some of them even pro vided with drains. The public edifices comprise a large parish church, of bastard classic architecture, built in 1740, and three smaller churches, some good and well attended schools, :i ALCUDIA ALDBUJRY townhall and consistory, a poor asylum, public granary, and a prison, formed out of a former convent. It is a busy, com mercial place, and contains many coarse woollen and paper manufactories, especially of papcl de hilo, or books of tissue j paper, for making papelitos, or paper cigars. Madoz states j that 200,000 reams of paper are annually made here, of which 10,000 are used for writing, 10,000 for packing and other purposes, and 180,000 for making the papelitos! The pcla- \ (lillas of Alcoy, or almond sugar plums, are held in high esti- ! mation. As respects the people, Mr. Ford describes them as j having an air of misery ; wearing shabby round hats, that give them a poverty stricken appearance ; and as unacquainted with the courtesies and salutations of high-bred Spain. The agricultural produce of the neighbourhood is grain, wine, | oil, fruits, including excellent figs and vegetables. Sheep, goats, pigs, horned cattle, mules, and a few horses, are reared. \ Two fairs are held annually, one in April, and the other in j October. Pop. 27,000. (Madoz.) ALCOY is also the name of a small river of Valencia, rising S.W. of the above town, and flowing N.E about 45 m. into the Mediterranean. ALCUDIA, the name of several towns in Spain: 1, A city and port in the isl. of Majorca ; lat. 39 50 45" N. ; Ion. 3 9 6" E. (L.) ; at the N.E. extremity of the island, between the large bay of its own name and that of Pollenza. It is sur rounded by old walls, and defended by two strong castles and u deep and wide fosse. It is tolerably built, but, owing to the great number of ruinous and uninhabited houses, has a desolate appearance. It has a parish church, townhouse, two schools, an hospital, and a cemetery. The inhabitants are engaged in weaving, fishing, and agriculture. As a port, its trade is inconsiderable. Pop. 1116. 2, Alcudia de baza, a tn. Andalusia, prov. of, and 34 m. N.E. from Almeria, on the summit of the sierra de Filabres; having a church, cemetery, storehouse, and fountain, with an agricultural pop. of 532. 3, Alcudia de carlct, a tn., prov. of, and 20 in. S. by W. from Valencia, on the right bank of the river Magro ; well built, with a church, three schools, townhouse, and prison. Weav ing, distilling brandy, making earthenware, and agriculture, are the chief employments of the people. Pop. 1759. 4, Alcudia de Guadix, a tn. Andalusia, prov. of, and 32 m. W. by N. from Granada, and 4 m. E. Guadix; comprising n square, with a central fountain, church, townhall, prison, and two schools, with an agricultural pop. of 722. 5, Alcudia de Crispins, a vil., prov. of, and 32 in. S. by W. from Valencia ; having a church, a palace of the Counts of Orgaz, \ ami an agricultural pop. of 626. 6, Alcudia is also the name ; of a valley in New Castile, prov. Ciudad Real, and of several , other villages not worthy of notice. (Madoz.) ALCUESCAR, a tn. Spain, Estremadura, prov. of, and about 20 m. S.E. from Caceres, on the W. slope of the sierra , Leon, a prolongation of the Toledo range. It is mean, ill built, and confined, but has a parish church, some schools, a court house, granary, and prison. The inhabitants are chiefly em ployed in tillage, rearing hogs, expressing oil, and domestic weaving. The vicinity yields grain and abundance of fruits. Pop. 3560. (Madoz.) ALDABRA ISLANDS, three islands situated at the N. entrance into the Mozambique Channel, called, respectively, ; East, Middle, and West Islands, but so connected by islets and rocks, as to appear one island ; lat. (N.W. point) 9 23 S. ; , Ion. 45 50 E. (K.) East Island is of moderate height, and is j here and there interspersed with a few trees ; has a fine white | sandy beach, and is covered with brushwood and verdure ; the whole combining, gives it a very beautiful appearance. ! Middle Island is the highest, and is, in part, covered with lofty trees ; it has also a beautiful beach, and is clothed with ( verdure. West Island is level, and has few trees or bushes, but resembles the two former in other respects. ALDAN MOUNTAINS and RIVER, in Russian Siberia. The former are a branch of the Stannovoi mountains, running N.W. to about lat. 67 30 N., from lat. 61 20 N., their total length being upwards of 900 m. Their geological composition is chiefly limestone, clay, slate, and graywacke. Vast forests of larch (I inus larix) clothe their sides; and, in the lat. of 61 N., grow at an elevation of 2240 ft., single trees being found at a height of 2500 ft. The greatest heights of these mountains, so far as ascertained, are from 2000 to upwards of 4000 ft. Mount Kapitan, the most elevated summit of the range, attains an elevation of 4263 ft. The Aldan River, a tributary of the Lena, flows parallel with the mountain range till it falls into the Lena, in lat. 57 30 N., about 90 in. below Yakutsk. It rises in the Yablonoi range, under the 56th N. parallel, thence running N.N.E. past Maiskaia to lat. 57 30 , where it turns abruptly W., and joins the Lena about 80 m. below Yakutsk, after a course of about 800 in. The great road from Yakutsk to Okotsk crosses it at Aldanska, which lies 760 ft. above the Sea of Okotsk. (Erman s Siberia.) ALDAYA, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and about 3 m. W. from Valencia, on the left bank of the river Furia. It is ill built, and has a church, two endowed schools, a townhouse, and public granary. The inhabitants are engaged in tillage and distilling brandy. The vicinity produces grain, wine, oil, vegetables, and fruits, especially melons. Pop. 2000. (Madoz.) ALDBOROUGH, or ALDEBUKGH, a small seaport tn. and par. England, co. Suffolk ; lat. 52 9 2" N. ; Ion. 1 36 E. (R.) ; 20 m. E.N.E. Ipswich, and 82 m. N.E. London ; pleasantly situated between the river Aide and the sea, and running nearly parallel with the beach of the latter. It formerly con sisted of three principal streets, but one of these was swept away by the sea, the encroachments of which have long been doing serious damage to the town. These, however, have been temporarily checked, by two sand banks which have been recently thrown up for that purpose. The old borough was situated m. E. of the present shore ; and on the spot where it stood, there are now 24 ft. of water. The older houses of the town are of a mean description ; but a number of handsome new houses and villas have been built of late years, in con sequence of the place having become a favourite resort for sea bathing, for which its beach is well adapted, while its climate is reckoned eminently salubrious. The parish church, a large and ancient structure, is situated conspicuously on the sum mit of a hill, and forms a convenient land mark for mariners. It is of a mixed perpendicular and decorated style, and has been much disfigured by unseemly repairs ; but is now (1850) in course of restoration, a new and magnificent window having been recently put up. There are, besides, places of worship for various denominations of dissenters, and a flourishing national daily school, supported by subscription, several be nevolent associations, and a mechanics institute. The town is well supplied with water. The harbour is safe and com modious. The trade of the port consists principally in the export of corn and wool ; the import of coal and timber, and in fish curing. A great proportion of the inhabitants are employed in fishing and seafaring. Crabbe, the poet, was born here on Christmas eve, 1754; and an elegant bust and plinth have recently been erected in the parish church to his memory. Aldborough formerly returned two members to Parliament, but was disfranchised by the Reform Bill. Market days, Wednesday and Saturday. Two fairs annually. Area of par. 1130 ac. Pop. of tn. and par. in 1841, 1557. (Correspondent in Aldborough.) ALDBOROUGH, a market tn. and par. England, co. York, W. Riding, on a plain on the river I re, about 16 m. N.W. York. It is small and irregularly built, and remarkable only for its great antiquity, as it is supposed to have been the capital of the Brigantes. Under the Romans it was called Isurium, and was then surrounded by walls said to have been about 1 m. in circuit. Many Roman antiqui ties have been found here, including coins, urns, the remains of aqueducts, and some beautiful tesselated pavements, a rare specimen of which was discovered in September 1848, on the property of Andrew Lawson, Esq. Aldborough for merly sent two members to Parliament, but was disfranchised by the Reform Act. It has one church. It is governed by a bailiff. Petty sessions are held in it. Market day, Wed nesday. An annual fair in September. Area of par. 8750 ac Pop. in 1841, 2424. ALDBOKOUGH is also the name ot a par. Norfolk, bun. Erpingham ; area, 590 ac. Pop. in 1841 , 293. ALDBOURNE, or AUISOURKK, n par. England, co. Wilts; area, 8060 ac.; 6 m. N.E. Marlborough ; ancient church and vicarage. Pop. in 1841, 1556. ALDBROUGH, a par. England, co. York, E. Riding; area, 5240 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1119. ALDBURY, a par. England, co. Hertford ; area, 2020 ac. ; on London and Birmingham Railway ; ancient church. Pop. iu 1841, 790. ALDEA ALDSTONE ALDEA [Village], the name, with various affixes, of numerous small places in Spain, Portugal, and Brazil. In SPAIN, the chief are: 1, Aldea-da-vila de Duero, in Leon, prov. of, and 28 m. N. by W. from Salamanca, on the Duero ; having 1500 inhabitants. 2, Aldea del Cano, in Estre- madura, prov. of, and 15 in. S. by E. from Caceres ; having 1300 inhabitants. 3, Aldea del Rey, in New Castile, prov. of, and 13 m. S. by E. from Ciudad Real ; having 1700 inhabit ants, much employed in lace making. 4, Aldca-nueva de Cen- tenera, in Estremadura, prov. Caceres, 13 m. E.N.E. Truxillo; with 1650 inhabitants. 5, Aldea-nueva deEbro, in Old Castile, prov. Logrofio, and 5 m. N.W. Alfaro; with 1900 inhabit ants. 6, Aid a-nueva de lavera, in Estremadura, prov. Caceres, 23 m. S.W. Plasencia , having a large church, townhall, hos pital, prison, and 2400 inhabitants, chiefly agricultural. There are 40 or 50 more, but none worth notice. In PORTUGAL, two only deserve notice : 1, Aldea Gallega, prov. Estremadura, on the Bay of Montigo, which forms a part of the left shore in the Tagus estuary, about 10 m. E. by S. Lis bon, and one of the chief ferry stations to that city ; having 3960 inhabitants, chiefly boatmen (catraciros) and fishermen. 2, Aldea Gallega da Mcrciana, same prov., on the left bank of the Tagus, 9 m. W.N.W. Alemquer. Pop. 1452. There are many other ALDEAS all unimportant. In BRAZIL are the following: 1, Aldca-das-Pedras, prov. Goyaz, on the road from Meico-Ponte to St. Paul, 1 30 m. S. St. Cruz. 2, Aldea do Campo, prov. Espirito-Santo, S. of the river Doce. Its inhabitants make and export linen. 3, Aldea Goitacaze, prov. Espirito-Santo, at the head waters of the Eeis-Magos. The naturalist, St. Hilaire, calls this village Pequiri-A9U. 4, Aldea VtlJia, prov. Espirito-Santo, ubout 8 m. N. Almeida. The Indians of the district construct canoes, and the women spin cotton, manufacture a kind of coarse cloth, and thread which is sold in Rio de Janeiro and 3ahia for lamp and candle wicks. 5, Aldea Velha, prov. Rio de Janeiro, in the district of Cabo Frio. (Madoz, Dicdo. de Espana; Die. Geo. Imp. Brazil.} ALDEBY, or ALDEIIURGH, a par. England, co. Norfolk ; area, 2690 ac.; 2f m. N.E. Beccles. Pop. in 1841, 496. ALDENHAM, a par. England, co. Hertford ; area, 5830 ac. ; 2J m. from Watford, on the London and Birmingham Railway ; old church. Pop. in 1841, 1662. ALDERBUKY, a par. England, co. Wilts ; area, 3950 ac. ; 3 m. S. Salisbury, on the South- Western Railway. Pop. in 1841, 1440. ALDERFORD, a par. England, co. Norfolk ; area, 320 ac ; 3 m. S.E. by S. Repham. Pop. in 1841, 44. ALDERLEY, a vil. and par. England, co. Gloucester ; area, 730 ac. ; handsome church, with monument to Sir Matthew Hale, who was born here, Nov. 1, 1609. Curious fossils are sometimes found. Pop. in 1841, 174. ALDERMASTON, apar. England, co. Berks; area, 2240 ac. ; 8 m. E. Newbury, on the navigable river Kennet. Pop. in 1841,662. ALDERMEN ISLANDS, a small group of islets off the E. coast of the most N. of the New Zealand Islands, New Ulster, and about 12 m. from the shore; lat. (S. point) 37 S. ; Ion. 17 6 4 E. (E.) ALDERMINSTER, a par. England, co. Worcester; 3480 ac. ; on the Moreton and Stratford Railway. Pop. in 1841, 508. ALDERNEY, the most N. of the islands in the English Channel, known by the name of the Channel Islands, 10 m. due W. from Cape La Hogue, in France ; lat. 49 42 54" N. ; Ion. 2 12 2" W. (R.) It is between 3 and 4 m. long, and about 1J broad. The coast is bold and rocky; the cliffs in many places rising from 100 to 200 ft. in height. In the in terior, the soil is fertile, producing excellent crops of corn and potatoes; but round the coast it is sandy and sterile. About a third of the island is occupied by grass lands. The climate is mild and healthy. The Aldcrney cows, a small, straight-backed breed, have long been celebrated for the quality of their milk, which is exceedingly rich, but not great in quantity. The cows are not handsome, and are in no great request anywhere but in the islands; in which, how ever, they are so much esteemed, that the importation of any other description of cattle is prohibited under the severest penalties. The town, as it is simply called, is situated in a beautiful valley near the centre of the island ; it is partly VOL I. paved, but presents nothing worthy of particular notice. The civil power is vested in six jurats, who are chosen by the people, and hold their offices for life, unless removed for misbehaviour. These, with 12 douzaniers, representatives of the people, form a sort-of local legislature. Alderney is a dependency of Guernsey. French manners, and the French language, prevail amongst the inhabitants ; but all under stand, and many speak English. They are about equally divided between the Established church and Wesleyan Meth odists. The strait which separates the island from the main land is called the Race of Alderney, from the velocity with which the current runs through it, being at the rate of 8 m. an hour. It is a deep and generally safe channel ; but, when wind and tide meet, is extremely dangerous. There is but one harbour in the island, Crabby, and there small vessels only can be accommodated. At the distance of about 6 m. N.W. from the island is a cluster of rocks, called the Caskets, on the largest of which there are three lighthouses ; an alarm bell has recently been added, to be used in foggy weather when the lights become invisible. Pop. of the isl. in 1841, 1030. ALDERSHOTT, a par. England, co. Hants ; 4070 ac. ; 3 m. N.E. by N. Farnham. Pop. in 1841, 685. ALDERTON, the name of several parishes, England : 1, A par., co. Wilts ; 1700 ac. ; 8 m. S.W. Malmesbury. Pop. in 1841, 183. 2, A par., co. Northampton, 3 m. S.E. Tow- cester. Pop. in 1841, 166. 3, A par., co. Gloucester; 1750 ac. ; near Tewkesbury ; Saxon encampment. Pop. in 1841, 411. 4, A par., co. Suffolk; 2680 ac. ; 7 m. S.E. Wood- bridge. Pop. in 1841, 620. ALDFORD, a par. England, co. Cheshire ; 2820 ac. ; on the river Dee; ancient castle and townhouse. Pop. in 1841, 835. ALDHAM, apar. England, co. Suffolk; 2170 ac.; on the Ipswich and Bury St. Edmund s Railway. Pop. in 1841 , 293. ALDINGBOURN, a par. England, co. Sussex; 3080 ac.j 4 m. E. Chichester. Pop. in 1841, 772. ALDINGHAM (UPPER and LOWER), two united parishes, England, co. Lancaster ; 4680 ac. ; 5 m. S. Ulverstone. Owing to the progressive encroachments of the sea, the church, once in the centre of the parish, is now within reach of the high tide. Pop. in 1841, 907. ALDINGTON, a par. England, co. Kent ; 3420 ac. ; near the South-Eastern Railway. The living of Aldington was once held by Erasmus of Rotterdam. Pop. in 1841, 733. ALOIS PEAK, a prominent mountain, N.E. Australia; lat. 24 50 S. ; Ion. 149 3 E. It is an excellent land mark, and can be seen at a great distance from the N.E. It was dis covered by Dr. Leichhardt in 1846. ALDRIDGE, apar. England, co. Stafford ; area, 7930 ac.; near Walsall. Here is a curious pool, Druidmeer (literally, Druid sea) ; an extensive distillery, and a manufactory of earthenware and tiles. Pop. in 1841, 2094. ALDRINGHAM,apar. England, co. Suffolk; area, 610 ac. Fair on St. Andrew s day. Pop. in 1841, 401. ALDSTONE, or ALSTON, a market tn. and par. England, co. Cumberland, on the declivity of a steep hill, near the con fluence of the rivers Nent and S. Tyne, 17 m. E.N.E. Pen- rith. The town consists of one main street and two smaller, neither of them regular. The new houses are chiefly of stone, roofed with slate, and are generally substantial and well built, being much superior, in all respects, to the older dwellings. There is abundance of excellent water brought from a neigh bouring hill, and collected in tanks. The town contains a church, and meeting houses belonging to various religious denominations; a grammar, infant, and Lancasterian schools. There is also a mechanics institute, having a library of 500 volumes, and a museum ; and a savings bank, the deposits in which amounted, in 1849, to considerably upwards of 18,000. The only manufactory in the town is a worsted spinning mill, employing about 70 hands. The country around is a dreary waste of naked hills, but rich in minerals. The lead mines in the parish are extensive and very produc tive, giving employment to upwards of 1000 people. Copper ore and zinc have also been found, and beautiful specimens of spar; and, in the lead mines, are numerous large caverns, exhibiting magnificent grotto work, and resplendent with crystals. Most of these mines belonged to the Earl of Der- wentwater, but fell to the Crown on the attainder of that 10 ALDSWORTII 71 ALENCON unfortunate nobleman in 1715. They were afterwards trans ferred, by Act of Parliament, to Greenwich hospital, to which they still belong. They are let by the governors of that institution on working leases to the London Lead Company and others, on condition of payment of one-seventh of the ore raised. Upwards of 17,000 bings of lead, each bing weighing 8 cwt., were obtained from these mines in 1849, worth, on an average, about 4 per bing. The moral character of the people of this district is singularly good; out of a population of upwards of 7000, there have only been 11 committals in 15 years, and of these seven only were natives, with a few minor cases determined summarily by the magistrates. Pop. of tn. in 1841, 1650; of par., 6062. (Correspondent in Aid- stone.) ALDSWORTH, a par. England, co. Gloucester; area-, 3460 ac.; on the Cheltenham, Oxford, and London United Railway. Pop. in 1841, 365. AJLDWINKLE (ST. PETER S), a par. England, co. North ampton, 4 m. N.E. Thrapston. Pop. in 1841, 183. ALDWIXKLE (ALL SAINTS), a par. adjoining the former; united area, 2450 ac. ; here are several charities. Pop. in 1841, 272. ALDWORTH, a par. England, co. Berks ; area, 1960 ac. ; 4 m. S. East Ilsley. Pop. in 1841, 314. ALEGRETE, a fortified tn. Portugal, prov. Alemtejo, comarca of, and 8 m. S.E. from Portalegre, near the Spanish frontier. In the neighbourhood are chestnut forests. Pop. 1130. ALEI, a river, Siberia, an affluent of the Obi, gov. Tomsk. It rises from two head streams, about lat. 50 42 N. ; Ion. 82 35 E. ; in that part of the Altai mountains called Tig- herazki Bjelki, and of granite formation. It takes a N.W. course, very winding and irregular, partly through a plain about 1000 ft. above the sea level, and covered with poplars and willows, and partly through a deep valley composed of clay slate, over granite, till it reaches Novo Aleish, about lat. 51 15 N.;. Ion. 81 2 E., where it is 939 ft. above the sea level, and where its S. bank, being composed of porphyry mountains, the river turns to the N.E., which general direc tion it maintains, chiefly through a level country, partly covered with pines, till it reaches the Obi, 20 m. S.S.W. Bar naul ; lat. 33 1 N. On various points of the banks of the , A lei are mines of copper, the ore from which is conveyed down the river, which is navigable, especially in spring, and for country boats, for a great part of its course. The steppo through which the Alei flows in the N. part of its course, is often set fire to, for the purpose of burning up the hard stems that prevent the mowing of the young grass. (Ritter s Asien.) ALEKSANDRTA, a tn. Russia. See ALEXANDRIA. ALEKSANDRI A, a tn. Caucasus, 10 m. S. Gheorghievsk ; lat. 44 19 N.; Ion. 43 10 E. ALEKSANDROV,a tn. and district, gov. Caucasia, Rus sia, the former 43 m. N.W. Gheorghievsk; lat. 44 28 N. ; Ion. 42 42 E. The S. boundary of the district is formed by the Caucasus mountains, the S.W. by the Koulian, and the N. by the river Kalaous. Some forest wood is found in the S., but it is only used for fuel. The soil is generally fertile, and suited to the culture of grain and vines. The Kalmucks establish their winter quarters on the heaths of the N., and numerous bands of Nogays pasture their flocks in the valleys of the S. ALEKSANDROV, a small tn. European Russia, gov. of, and 69 m. W.N.W. from Vladimar, and 58m. N.E. Moscow, on the banks of the river Seraia, which falls into the Kliazma. The Czar Ivan Vasilievitch sometimes passed the summer here ; and it was in this little town that he established the first printing press introduced into Russia. It has two churches and a nunnery. The splendid haras, or breeding stud for horses, which is here supported at the expense of the crown, is renowned for the variety of its breeds, and for the extent and character of its buildings. This establishment was commenced by the Empress Elizabeth in 1761, and 20 years elapsed before it was completed. Pop. 3000. ALEKSANDROVKA, the name of a great number of small towns in Russia, there being no fewer than four in the prov. of Kherson alone, and all within about 50 m. of each other, and in almost every other province there is one or more. The name is sometimes spelled ALEXANDROVKA. ALEKSANDROVSK, a tn. European Russia, gov. of, and 48 m. S. from Ekatherinoslav, or lekaterinoslav ; cap. district of same name, on the left bank of the Dnieper, at the mouth of the Moscovka. It is fortified, and has a consid erable transit trade with the interior of the empire ; goods from thence coming here for shipment by the Dnieper for the Black Sea. Pop. (1842), 5192. The E. part of the district of Aleksandrovsk is watered by the Samara; the S. by the Kouskara, which separates it, throughout a large extent, from the province of the Saurida. The greater part of the surface is barren heath ; there are very few villages, and cultivated land is rare. ALEKSIN, or ALESEINA, a tn. European Russia, prov. Tula, on the right bank of the river Oka, about 100 m. S. Moscow, and 32 from Tula. It has some trade in hemp, hides, tallow, honey, and salt meat. Two great fairs are held here annually. Pop. 2500. The district of Aleksin con tains some iron works, and a manufacture of linen, and 240 villages, with a pop. of 90,000. ALEMOUTH. See ALNEMOUTH. ALEMQUER or ALENQUEB, a small tn. Portugal, and cap. of comarca, in prov. Estremadura, on a small river of the same name; 24 m. N.N.E. Lisbon, and about 8 m. W. the Tagus. It has five churches, three convents, an hospital, and paper mill, once the largest in Portugal ; the environs pro duce good wheat and grapes. Pop. 2485, ALEMTEJO, or ALENTEJO, [from Alem, beyond, and TV/o, the Tagus], the largest, but least populous prov. of Portugal, bounded, N. by Estremadura and Beira Baixa, E. by Spain, S. by prov. Algarve, and W. by Estremadura and the Atlantic ; length, N. to S., 150 m. ; average breadth, E. to W., about 70 m. ; area, about 7728 geo. sq. m. The greater part of the surface of this province is undulating, broken up only by low hills running N.N.E. to S.S.W. To the E. rise, in unconnected groups, the low serras de Mamed, de Portalegre, de Ossa, de Evora, and Mont Muro, rendered picturesque by steep cliffs, and by the numerous ruins and fortifications with which they are bedecked. To the W., the hills sink into broad plains (campos), which, before reaching the sandy coast, are traversed by isolated ridges of rock ; to the S., towards Algarve, they attain the height of 4000 ft. The hills are composed mostly of sandstone and graywacko schist, and give rise to no streams of importance ; the prin cipal rivers of the prov. rising in Spain, as the Guadiania in the S., and the Tagus in the N. Of the streams that are purely Portuguese may be named the Sado or Saldao, and the Zetas, and their affluents. The climate in the S. and W. is hot and dry ; and the country is composed of plains covered with brown heath, without tree or bush, but here and there varied by marshy tracts. Agriculture, in these localities, is little attended to, the heaths serving chiefly to feed sheep and goats. In the E. the valleys are very fruitful, and the hills grow fine wood. The principal cereals cultivated are wheat and barley, and, next to them, rice and maize; of all of which a considerable quantity is exported to Lisbon and elsewhere. For this abundance of grain the inhabitants of Alemtejo are in no way indebted to their own agricultural industry or skill, both of which are in a very low state, but wholly to the richness of the productive part of the province. Grapes, olives, citrons, lemons, figs, and other southern fruits, are plentiful ; and in the woods are found the evergreen oak, the cork oak, chestnuts, pines, &c. The rearing of sheep, goats, and pigs, and the culture of bees, are extensively carried on ; cattle, ass, and mule rearing is less attended to. Good oil, tolerable wine, wool, and honey, tire produced. Game is plentiful. In some localities cloth is woven, and potteryware made ; but the manufactures of the province, as a whole, are of little account. Salt is exported. The principal towns are Evora the capital, Portalegre, Elvas, Estremez, Beja, and Mertola. Pop. in 1835, 384,000. (Real Encylclopadie ; Ilasscl s Portugal; Tciboa Gcoyrafico LvKitana.) ALEN^ ON [anc. Alcnconium}, a tn. France, chief place of dep. of the Orne, formerly cap. of the duchy of Alencon ; stand ing on an extensive plain, on the right bank of the Sarthe, near its junction with the Briante, 58 m. S.S.E. Caen, and 1 05 m. W. by S. Paris. Of the walls and former fortifications of the town, four gates arc all that remain. The streets are in general broad, well paved, and clean. Among the prin cipal buildings are the cathedral, the prefecture, the corn ALEOUTES 75 ALEPPO market, the college, and the townliouse, tlie towers of wliicli last are the remains of the old castle of the Dukes d Alencon. The town contains a communal college, with an observatory; a Society d Emulation; two hospitals, one of them for the insane ; a public library of about 8000 volumes, a museum of natural history, and a theatre. Alencon is the seat of con siderable manufactures, and of an extended commerce. It was long famed for the manufacture of point lace, called pointe d Alencon, but this branch of industry, as well as the making of straw hats, for which it was also known, is now much fallen off. The principal manufactures now are cotton spinning, flax spinning, weaving of cotton, woollen, and linen fabrics, tanning, glass making, distilling, and brewing. A kind of hempen and linen cloths made here, styled toiles d Alemjon, are held in high estimation, and nearly 22,000 pieces are sold annually. There are some bleacheries in the environs ; and the embroidering of muslin occupies a considerable num ber of hands. Perry and cider are manufactured in consider able quantities, the latter being the common drink of the country ; and down and quills form staple articles of trade. The district produces abundance of cattle, poultry, and a good breed of horses. Amongst its minerals are iron, granite, and freestone. The species of fine rock crystal, called diamants d Alencon, formerly found in the neighbouring granite quar ries, is now nearly exhausted. Pop. in 1846, 14,388. ALEOUTES. See ALEUTIAN ISLANDS. ALEPE, or ALIPI, a tn. and fortress, Malabar, prov. Travancore, Hindoostan, 30 m. S. Cochin ; lat. 9 30 N ; Ion. 76 25 E. It is populous, and is the chief depot from which the Travancore Government exports its pepper, grain, and timber. ALEPPO, or HALEB-ES-SHABHA [anc. Clialybon and Berrcea], a city, N. Syria, pash. of the same name, on the small river Koik, 60 m. S.E. Iskenderoon, which is its port, and the nearest point on the Mediterranean shore, 195 m. N.N.E. Damascus; lat. 36 11 25" N. ; Ion. 37 5 23" E. (L.) It is encompassed, at the distance of a few miles, by a circle of low rocky hills, destitute of trees and scantily watered, but affording good pasturage for sheep and goats. It occupies eight small hills, of unequal height, with their intermediate valleys, and is surrounded by walls 30 ft. high and 20 broad, in which there are seven gates. Its circumfer ence within the walls is about 3 m. ; without, and including the suburbs, about 7 m. Its appearance, on approaching it, is striking and picturesque. Numerous mosques, cupolas, and minarets, the last of dazzling whiteness, crowd on the ALEPPO. From Lieut.-folonel Chesney s Euphiato Expedition. eye ; the flat roofs of the houses on the hills, rise one behind another, in a succession of hanging terraces ; while a profusion of cypress and poplar trees imparts beauty and animation to the whole. But, on entering the gates, much of this pleasing illusion is dispelled. The streets are found to be gloomy and silent ; the shops mean-looking ; and the baths and fountains heavy unadorned structures. The houses, however, are well and substantially built of stone, two or three stories in height ; mostly in the Saracenic style, with spacious apartments, large windows, and richly ornamented walls and ceilings ; the latter being often beautifully painted and gilded. In some quarters of the city, particularly in that called called Djedeide, the streets are well paved ; and, in general, better kept than those of any other town in Syria. An ample supply of water is brought into the city by an ancient aqueduct, from two springs 8 m. distant. On an oval hill in the N.E. comer of the city, stands the castle of Aleppo, a conspicuous object, surrounded by a broad and deep fosse, in. in circumference ; now filled up with gardens and plantations. A large square tower, beau tifully inlaid witli a dark-coloured stone, forms the entrance ; but the interior is in ruins, two houses only being now habit able. The only other public buildings of any interest are the ancient seraglio, or palace of the pasha, and the mosque of Djami-el-Adelieh. The former, now also in ruins, was of great extent and magnificence ; but the only portion of its splendours now remaining is a gateway of admirable work manship, the arch of which is composed of blocks of polished white and black marble. The seraglio was destroyed, in 1819-20, during the siege of the city by Kourchid Ahmed Pasha. The mosque of Djami-el-Adelich is reckoned one of the most graceful structures of the kind in Syria ; it is surmounted by a magnificent dome, and by a tall and elegant minaret. A spiral staircase conducts to the top of the latter, from which a splendid view of the city and surrounding country is obtained. The beautiful portico of the mosque was much injured by the earthquake of 1822. There are two libraries in the city, one attached to the Osmanieh mosque, the other to a college called the Ahmedieh ; the lat ter, though sufficiently meagre, is reckoned the best in Syria. Such institutions, however, meet with little encouragement in Aleppo, the taste for literature being extremely limited ; neither is education in a better condition. Previous to the earthquake of 1822, Aleppo carried on a considerable trade with England ; importing thence large quantities of red cloth, &c. ; and re-exporting the Indian manufactures brought overland from Bagdad. Its manu factures were then also very valuable ; consisting of shawls, cottons, silks, gold and silver lace, &c. ; in which, it is said, 12,000 artizans were engaged. But, on the occasion of the calamity alluded to, the town was nearly deserted by its sur viving inhabitants, and its trade ruined. Both the latter and former, however, have considerably improved since ; and Aleppo still retains, or has regained, its ancient reputation for the excellence of its silk stuffs, with gold and silver thread, and its flowered and striped cottons ; in the manufacture of which about 4000 looms, and nearly 5000 persons, adults and children, are employed. There are, besides, numerous soap, dyeing, and print works. Its trade with Eng land has also revived, 5000 bales of British manufactures being yearly imported ; while its caravan trade with the interior is likewise rapidly improving ; the merchants finding they can now be supplied in Aleppo with all they want. Considerable quantities of wool and silk are exported to France and Italy; of the former, 2568 bales were exported in one year lately, and 179 of the latter. The retail, or shop trade, however, does not seem to be very vigor ous, owing in part, perhaps, to the smallness of capital employed in it; the aggregate amount of which, according to Dr. Bowring, does not ex ceed 20,000 sterling. The celebrated gardens of Aleppo, nearly 12 m. in length, are situated to the S.E. of the city ; but, though much prized by the na tives, they have few attractions for Europeans; being subdivided and enclosed by low stone walls, and exhibiting little of either taste or skill in management or arrangement. The trees are, for the most part, crowded close together, with little regard to symmetry ; while the kitchen and flower gar dens, of which the whole is a compound, are undistinguished by the intervention of parterres or grass plots. Close to the city are many extensive quarries, from which is obtained a white gritty stone, easily cut at first, but becoming indurated after exposure for some time to the air. Of this stone all the houses are built. The climate of Aleppo is healthful ; but is, in summer, excessively hot, though considerably moderated by the W. winds which then prevail. In winter, there are considerable falls of snow. The earthquake already alluded ALE11IA ALEUTIAN ISLANDS to, by which Aleppo was nearly destroyed, occurred on August 13, 1822. It lasted only 10 or 12 seconds ; but, in that short space of time, not only Aleppo, but a number of other towns in Syria, were converted into heaps of stones and rubbish, and 20,000 human beings destroyed. Aleppo was a place of considerable importance in very remote times ; having risen on the destruction of Palmyra. From that period, its pros perity continued to increase until the discovery of a passage to India by the Cape of Good Hope, when it began to decline. Its pop. in 1795 was, it is said, 250,000, while it is not now more than 60,000, or 65,000; of which 16,000 to 18,000 are Christians. Col. Chesney gives a somewhat different account of the population. He says that it was formerly 150,000, and that it is now reduced to 100,000 ; of which 66,500 are Turks, 3000 Armenians, 19,000 Greeks, 4500 Jews, 5000 Maronites, 2000 Syrians and Aleppines. The language usually spoken here is Arabic. The PASHALIC of Aleppo occupies the N. extremity of Syria, and extends southward from the borders of Asia Minor at the foot of the Taurus, to Damascus, Tripoli (in Syria), and the confines of Arabia Deserta ; the Mediter ranean Sea and the Bays of the Orontes and Iskenderoon being its W. limits, and the Euphrates its E. Its surface contains about 7372 sq. in. The W. side is mountainous; on the E., the hills are lower and more undulating. The soil in general is excellent, and the climate good. (Dr. Bowring s Report on Syria; Paton s Modern Syrians; Jour. Hoy. Geo. Soc.; Survey of tfie Euphrates and Tigris, by Lieut.-Col. Chesney; &c. &c.) ALEKIA, a small decayed vil. Corsica; once a consider able city, and the see of a bishop. It is now remarkable only for the ruins of the Roman colony of Aleria. ALESEINA. See ALEKSIH. ALESSANDRIA BELLA PAGLIA, or ALEXANDRIA, a tn. Sardinian States; chief town of the gov., of the prov., and of the military division of the same name ; sent of a council of justice under the jurisdiction of the senate of Turin, 48 m. E.S.E. Turin; on the right bank of the Tanaro, a little above where it is join ed by the Bormida. The town is fortified; has a citadel ; and is the seat of a bishop, suffragan to Vercelli ; and the residence of a chief rabbi. It has a royal college and theological seminary, a cathedral, 12 parish churches, three hospitals, an orphan asylum, a gym nasium, very extensive barracks, and a theatre. Manufac tures : Linen, silks, cloths, and wax candles. Alessandria is considered to be one of the strongest towns in Europe, both from its citadel, its outer works, and from the sluices of the Tanaro, by which the surrounding country can be inundated. It is the bulwark of Piedmont ; and was founded in the 12th century, under the auspices of Pope Alexander III., the patron of the Guelfs, for the purpose of defending N. Italy against the Emperor Frederick I. and the Ghibellines. In the year 1707, it was ceded, by the Emperor Joseph I., to the Duke of Savoy ; was taken by the French during the war of the Spanish succession, and retaken by Prince Eugene; in 1796, it capitulated to Bonaparte; on June 25, 1799, it fell into the hands of the allied Russian and Austrian army; and, after the battle of Marengo, was restored to the French, who kept possession of it till 1814, when it was restored to the King of Sardinia. The battle of Marengo was fought a little to the E. of the town, on June 14, 1800. Pop. 36,000 ; of whom 550 are Jews. The PROV. is rich in pastures, and produces large numbers of cattle. The fields, in general, are surrounded by ditches of water, on whose banks grow mulberry, poplar, and walnut trees. The climate is temperate ; but the sirocco is occasion ally felt. Wheat, maize, wine, silk, fruit of fine quality, madder, wood, and the finest flax of Piedmont, are produced in the province. Wood is very scarce. Pop. 99,556. The GOV. is composed of the provinces of Alessandria, Asti Cassali, Acqui, Vogliera, and Tortona ; whose united pop. is 547,662. ALESSANO [Alcxanum], a tn. Naples, prov. Otranto, district of, and 21 m. S.E. from Gallipoli ; built on the ruins of the ancient Leuca. Residence of a bishop. It has an hospital, and some manufactories of muslins and cotton stuffs. Pop. 1745. ALESSIO [anc. Lissus, of the Romans ; Akrolissus, of the Greeks], a tn. Turkey in Europe, prov. Albania, district or pash. Scutari, on the left bank of the Drin, about 5 m. from its embouchure in the gulf of that name ; situated in a plain, planted with olives. It contains a bazaar and a fortress the latter small, and in bad condition, and containing only the barracks, a few Christian families, and a mosque, in which is buried Scander-beg, or Iskander-beg, a celebrated Albanian prince and warrior, who flourished in the 15th century. Beyond the fortress is an extensive suburb, called Varoshi, a thriving place inhabited by Turks. Alessio is the see of a bishop dependent upon that of Durazzo, from which it is 25 m. 1S T . Some traces of the ancient Lissus are still visible. (Jour. Roy. Geo. Soc., vol. xii. ; Guibert, Die. Geo. et Stat.) ALET, or ALKTH [Lalin, Alecta], a small tn. France, dep. Aude, 6 m. S.E. Limoux, and 37 m. N.W. Perpignan; upon the right bank of the Aude, in a beautiful valley abound ing in fruit, at the foot of the Pyrenees. It has four mineral springs, three of them cold ; and its baths are celebrated. In the environs are tile works, and copper and iron mines. Pop. 1320. ALEUTIAN ISLANDS [from the Russian word Aleut, a bold rock], an extensive range of small islands belonging to Russia, in the N. Pacific ocean, between Cape Aliaska, in N. America, and the peninsula of Kamchatka, in Asia ; extending from Ion. 163 W. to 166 E., or for about 600 m. They were formerly divided into three groups the Aleutian, Andrenovian, and Fox Islands ; but are now all comprehended under the name Aleutian. The first known of these islands was discovered, in 1741, by Behring, whose name it bears, and who died there ; the others were discovered, at different periods afterwards, by various Russian adventurers, who sought these regions in quest of furs, particularly that of the sea otter. They were subsequently visited by Captain Cook in 1788, who determined their exact positions. Those nearest Kamchatka are Behring s and Miednoi, or Copper Islands; the first situate in lat. 55 N. ; Ion. 166 E. South east of the latter are the small islands of Attoo, Semitshi, and Agattoo, between lat. 54 and 55 N. The Andrenovian group, or central part of the chain, lies between lat. 52 and 54 N., and comprehends the islands of Kiska, Amchitka, Tanaga, Kanaga, Adagh, Atcha, and Amlia, with a number of smaller islands. Of the group nearest Cape Aliaska, called by the Russians Syssie Ostrova, or Fox Islands, the principal are Oomnak, Oonalashka, and Oonimack. Beyond these, to the N.E., lies the large island of Kodiak, generally considered as belonging to the group called Schumagin s Islands, on which there is a village of about 400 inhabitants. The largest of the whole chain are Behring s island and the island of Oona lashka. The Aleutian islands are of volcanic formation ; and, in a number of them, there are volcanoes still in active operation. At present, there are upwards of 24 in this state, varying from 3000 to 8000 ft. in height. In 1796, a volcanic island, now called Joanna Bogoslowa, rose in the middle of the line, or ALEUTIAN ISLANDS 77 ALEUTIAN ISLANDS chain, of islands. It was first observed after a storm, at a point in the sea from which a column of smoke had been seen to rise. Flames afterwards issued from the new island, accompanied by a frightful earthquake. Eight years after its emergence, it was found, in some places, to be so hot that it could not be walked upon. It is now several thousand feet high, and 2 or 3 m. in circumference, and is still increasing in size. Earthquakes, also, of the most terrific description, are of fre quent occurrence in this region ; agitating and altering the bed of the sea and surface of the land throughout the whole tract. The appearance of the islands is singularly dismal and barren ; lofty walls of black lava rise perpendicularly from the sea, and beyond, steep mountains of rock shoot up to the clouds ; while the coasts are so encompassed with reefs and breakers as to render navigation amongst them exceed ingly dangerous. The soil is, in general, very poor ; but, in some particular spots, esculent vegetables thrive well ; and some of the most E. of the islands produce potatoes, and main tain considerable numbers of domestic cattle, although the latter do not generally thrive on these islands. Springs of water are numerous ; and valleys clothed with a rich herbage, and capable of supporting herds of cattle throughout the year, are to be met with in some of the islands, especially Oonalashka. Bears, wolves, beavers, ermines, and river otters, are plentiful ; while the Fox Islands, as their name implies, abound in foxes black, red, gray, and brown. The kinds of fish most usually caught are salmon and halibut ; the latter frequently of immense size. Seals and whales are abundant on the coasts. The inhabitants who seem to be a mixed race between the Mongolian Tartars and the North American Indians are below the average stature, but stout, and well proportioned. They have a round face, small eyes, a brownish complexion, a flat nose, and black hair. In the females, the complexion is of a lighter shade, and the hair approaches to brown. The I dress, which is common to both sexes, consists of a frock of j seal skin, fastened round the neck, and descending below the I knees. This simple dress is often ingeniously sewed and adorned with glass beads, white goats hair, and small red feathers. In their native state, they pierced the lower lip, the nose, and the ears, to suspend in them bones or crystal rings. The women wore around the neck, as well as the hands and feet, chaplets of variegated stones ; and more especially, when they could procure it, amber. They also tatooed the body, adorn- i ing it with various figures ; and, when the female belonged to a family of distinction, depicting on her person a symbolical representation of the deeds by which they had acquired renown the number of enemies slain, or beasts of prey destroyed. The most striking feature in the constitutional temper of the Aleutians is a kind of passive quiescence and patient endurance, amounting almost to insensibility. Left to themselves, they will pass whole days in absolute idleness, scarcely opening their lips to give utterance to a single syl lable, or making the least exertion to satisfy the cravings of appetite; and, on the other hand, when placed under a master, they will toil on at any task which may be appointed them, slowly, indeed, but without interruption, until it is accom plished. Instances are even given in which they have carried this implicit obedience so far as to sacrifice their lives in endeavouring to perform impossible tasks, which senseless or tyrannical masters had imposed upon them. In the ordinary relations of life, the Aleutians exhibit much that is amiable. Parents are treated with great respect and deference, and I children are the objects of the fondest affection. The husband is addressed by the wife as father, and he applies to her the name of mother. The whole family appear to cling to each other, and take a deep interest in whatever affects their com mon honour and welfare. To this happy state of domestic life there must, however, be numerous exceptions. The ex istence of polygamy, and the still more monstrous practice of polyandry, seem almost inconsistent with the very idea of what is usually understood by a family. As might be anticipated, from the passive qualities of the Aleutians, they are not remarkable for their courage. Provided the destruction of their enemy can be accomplished, it seems absolutely indiffer ent to them whether it be by force or stratagem. The chief j employments are hunting and fishing, and in both they show great dexterity. They will face the bear simply armed with a gun or a bow ; and have even been known, when these weapons had failed, to encounter and overcome him with a knife. But the sea seems to be their proper element. In the pursuit of the whale and the seal, they are equally shilful and intrepid. The boat which they employ is a kind of canoe, called a baidar, consisting of a frame of wood or bone, covered with seal skin. It is long and narrow, in general holding only a single person, whose bust rises out of a circular hole cut in the skin, which stretches from gunwale to gunwale, like a deck; and is so light, that a man can easily carry it. Fleets, consisting perhaps of a 100 of these Gaidars, each managed by double paddles about 8 ft. long, will venture 50 or 60 m. to sea, and encounter all the perils of a stormy ocean, in quest of the sea otter. While the men are thus employed, the women occupy themselves in covering canoes, and making mats, baskets, and other articles of straw, which display much neatness and dexterity. The food in common use is of the coarsest description whale s flesh, almost in a putrid state, and fish often of similar quality. Could anything add to the disgust which the very idea of such a meal inspires, it would be the filthy manner in which it is cooked ; both the place and the utensils being allowed to remain in the dirtiest state imagin able. Notwithstanding of the grave and almost demure man ners of the Aleutians, they are not strangers to amusements, and even theatrical representations. They have both songs and dances, and a kind of dramas, in which some striking incident connected with their history is exhibited. The popularity of these is so great, as to have more than once collected crowds, which caused a famine. The religion of the Aleutians was a ramification of Sham anism a superstition prevalent throughout the N. of Asia. They acknowledged a higher Deity, or Creator, but paid no worship to him, under the idea that he had left the charge of the world to certain good and evil spirits, called KoityaJJi, and Aylilcaiakh. They worshipped the elements, and the heavenly bodies, particularly the sun and the moon, which were supposed to have great power in human affairs; the sun, when blas phemed, striking the blasphemer blind by its rays ; the moon killing him by the stones which she throws down upon him ; and the stars compelling him to count them a task, the per formance of which cost him his reason. They had neither temples nor idols ; but near every village, on a rock, or other eminence, was a supposed holy place, which the old men alone, and the priests, or shamans, were permitted to visit. On these, with mysterious ceremonies, they deposited offer ings, consisting usually of the skins of wild beasts, or the feathers of aquatic birds. Amulets, or charms, were also in general use, some of them being supposed to secure their fortunate possessor against all accidents, and bring him off scatheless and victorious from every combat. The most effectual of these talismans was a girdle, composed of cords or grass, with a particular arrangement of knots. In regard to the immortality of the soul, and the origin of the human race, the views of the Aleutians must have been originally derived from a Divine source. The strongest proof of their belief of the former, is derived from one of the most horrid of their practices. On the death of a chief, his slaves were sacrificed on his tomb, that they might go and continue their services to him in the other world. The general idea was, that the disembodied spirit returned invisible to its family, whom it accompanied for good or evil in all their excursions. It is even said to have been invoked by them, particularly when engaging in war, to avenge some insult that had been offered to the family. The original form of government was patriarchal. Every village, which, from the frequency of intermarriage, in fact formed only one family, was governed by its toiun, or chief; and a union of villages, under some superior town, on whom valour or wisdom conferred the dignity, formed a kind of state. Under the dominion of llussia, all the primitive institutions and habits of the Aleu tians have been greatly modified, and many of them have rapidly disappeared. Unquestionably, the best virtues of savage life have thus been lost ; and one of the first effects of civilization was the introduction of its worst vices, and one of its most disgusting diseases. But these are partly compen sated by numerous blessings. The Aleutians have already acquired some skill in mechanical arts. Many of them have learned to read, and actually peruse the Scriptures in their own tongue. Their abandonment of Shamanism for the religion of the Greek church, and the deep interest which ALEXANDER ISLAND 7S ALEXANDRIA they seem to take in its ritual, is probably much less the effect of conviction than of deference to the authority of their j masters; but the faet that there are already four churches in I the islands, thronged by native worshippers, that the vindic- j tive spirit which at one time prevailed, and made family feuds implacable, has in a great measure disappeared, gives reason to hope that the Aleutians, instead of being regarded as savages, will, at no distant period, be entitled to claim a place among civilized men. (Erman.) ALEXANDER ISLAND, a small isl. in the Antarctic Ocean, in about lat. (N. point) 68 51 S. ; Ion. 73 10 W. ; discovered by Bellinghausen in 1821, but not approached nearer than 25 to 30 m., on account of the surrounding ice. ALEXANDERSBAD, mineral springs and baths, Ba varia, prov. Upper Franconia, 17 m. N.E. Bayreuth; on the E. side of the Fichtelgebirge, near the village of Sichersreuth, upwards of 1900 ft. above the sea level. From its mountain ous situation, the climate is somewhat rude. The water springs from granite, limestone, and mica schist ; is clear, has a pleasant chalybeate and somewhat sharp taste, and lias a temperature of about 49 Fah. It is an earthy, saline, chalybeate spring, containing a considerable quantity of car bonic acid gas, and is esteemed a good restorative and tonic. The water is used both externally and internally, and the baths are a good deal frequented. ALEXANDRETTA, ISKENDEROON, or SCANDEROON, a small seaport tn. Syria, district Alexandretta, S.E. coast of the Gulf of Scanderoon ; lat. 36 35 18" N. ; Ion. 36 9 E. (u.) The houses are in general extremely mean looking ; but some recent erections have given a rather more respectable appear ance to the town. These include the residence of the English vice-consul, and some granaries built by Ibrahim Pasha. The town is surrounded by marshes, which render it very un healthy; but it is now less so than formerly, in consequence of one of the largest having been thoroughly drained some years ago. The others, being all above the level of the sea, might be very easily drained, to the great advantage of the port. The latter consists of a fine bay, running in S.E. from the gulf, protected from all winds, and capable of containing in security from 30 to 35 sail. Being the natural port of Aleppo, and of all N. Syria, the greater portion of both British and foreign imports and exports pass through it. The direct importations consist principally of grain, rice, and salt. The staple articles of export are galls, silk, cotton, and dips, or beshmet, made from grapes into a consistence resem bling honey, and which forms a great article of food among the natives of the country. The inhabitants of Alexandretta are about half Greeks and half Turks and Fellahs. ALEXANDRIA, an anc. city and seaport, Egypt, about 14 m. W. of the most W. mouth of the Nile, on the ridge of land between the sea and the bed of the old Lake Mareotis; lat. (Point Eunostos) 31 11 30" N.;lon. 29 51 5" E. (R.) The ancient city of Alexandria was founded 332 years B.C., on the site of a small town called Racotis, by Alexander the G reat, who gave it his own name. As the site of a great commercial city, the situation was well chosen, presenting a probability, afterwards fully realized, of uniting the traffic of Europe, Arabia, and India. Of the ancient city, the plan of which was drawn out by Dinocrates, a celebrated architect of antiquity, little else than a wide series of ruins now remains. It stood a little to the S. of the present town, and was of great extent, having a circumference of 15 m., with a pop. of 300,000 free inhabitants, besides, at least, an equal number of slaves. Its magnificence was so remarkable, that the Romans ranked it next to their own capital ; and Amer, general of the caliph Omar, in his letter to the latter after the capture of the city, A.D. 640, thus speaks of it: " I have taken the great city of the West. It is impossible for me to enumerate the variety of its riches and beauty, and I shall content myself with observing, that it contains 4000 palaces, 4000 baths, 400 theatres, or places of amusement, 12,000 shops for the sale of vegetables, and 40,000 tributary Jews." (Gibbon.) The city was regularly built, and tra versed by two principal streets, each 100 ft. wide, and one of them 4 m. long. One-fourth of the entire area on which it was built, was covered with temples, palaces, and public buildings. Under the Caesars, it attained an extraor dinary degree of prosperity; large fleets of merchant vessels traded with India and Ethiopia, and returned laden with the most valuable productions of these countries, to be afterwards distributed through Egypt and other lands. An industrious population improved the general welfare. The inhabitants have been accused of an extraordinary irascibility, which led, on the slightest occasions, to disturbances of the most serious character ; but it is more than probable that this proneness to tumult and riot had its origin with, if it was not confined to, the idle, mercenary troops, of which great num bers were always quartered in the city, and who were ever, says Wilkinson, more ready to govern than obey. The weaving of linn.n, and the manufacture of glass and papyrus, were the chief occupations of the industrial popula tion of the ancient city. The most remarkable remains of the Alexandria of former times are the famous obelisks, known by the name of Cleopatra s Needles. These obelisks, of which there are two, are of red granite, and about 70 ft. high, with a diameter at the base of about 7 ft. One only is now standing ; the other lying prostrate at the foot of it.* Pom- pey s, or, more properly, Diocletian s pillar, stands on an eminence about 1800 ft. to the S. of the present walls. Its total height is 98 ft. 9 in. ; circumference, 29 ft. 8 in. ; diameter at the top of the capital, 1 6 ft. G in. In a hollow space to the S.W. of this column, is the site of an ancient circus. About a mile W. of the pillar, and without the walls of the ancient city, are the catacombs, now in a ruinous state, but still sufficiently impressive. They are of great extent, and present some beautiful specimens of architecture. Fragments of columns, and other ruins, scattered over a wide space, with traces of walls, vestiges of public baths, and noble edifices of various descriptions, all bear evidence of the grandeur and mag nificence which had characterized this great city of the East. The modern city, though the scene of much bustle and gaiety, has no pretensions to any of the splendours of its predecessor ; if we except, perhaps, that picturesque and dis tinguishing feature of Eastern cities the minaret, some of those of Alexandria being of great elegance and beauty, as will be seen from the accompanying woodcut. The streets MINARETS AT ALKXAKUB1A. From Hoieau, Panorama de ! Ej.<ypte. in the Turkish quarter are narrow, dirty, and irregular; tho houses are, in general, from three to four stories in height, and are substantially built, but have a dull monotonous ap- * This obelisk, which had been entirely buried in the sand during flic erection of the new fortifications round the city, lias been recently brought to light again. It belongs to the British Government, to which it wai presented by Mehemet All ALEXANDRIA 79 ALEXANDRIA The City&KMvirons of ALEXANDRIA. pcarance, from want of windows to the streets. In the Frank quarter, which has greatly increased of late years, the town wears a more lively and agreeable aspect. The houses are clean, and brilliantly whitewashed, and the principal street is the finest and largest in the city. In the Frank quarter is a large and elegant square, called the Pierra Grande, in which are the principal hotels, and most of the consulates. There is a small theatre in the city, but no regular corps dramatique, the actors being all amateurs and Europeans. During the carnival, the city becomes very gay with public and private balls, the former at the Cassino, and with other festivities. The streets are at all times crowded with camels, mules, and asses, whose drivers maintain a constant din, calling on passengers to keep out of the way, to which are added the vociferations of jug glers, mountebanks, and hawkers. The mixed character of the po pulation, however, and the great variety of costume that meets the eye, give to the streets a lively and interesting appearance, in de spite of their want of all other attractions. Shops are numerous, and well supplied with all sorts of European goods,tastefully arranged and displayed. There are few bazaars, but they are amply pro vided with cloth, tobacco, sherbet, and vegetables. The only objects of interest in the town are the Pasha s palace and the arsenal ; the former is not remarkable for splendour, either external or internal with the excep tion of a few of the apartments, which are fitted up in good taste, simplicity being their prevailing characteristic. The arsenal, which was begun in 1827, occupies a site of 60 ac., with a good frontage to the sea. It is provided with slips for line-of-battle ships and frigates, but all the anchors, cables, tanks, and ordnance used are brought from England. Several educational and judicial institutions in the city, mark the liberal policy of Mehemet Ali. Amongst these are two schools a preparatory school with 800 pupils, and a primary school with 200. Commercial differences are settled by a national tribunal of commerce, one of which is at Alexandria, and another at Cairo. There is also a board, called the commission of ornament, composed of Egyptians and Europ eans, for the promotion of cleanliness and general order, and propriety in the erection of new buildings, which cannot be begun without the consent of this body. The commission has power to remove all nuisances affecting the public health, and has already done much for the city in the way of ven tilation. The exemption, however, of church lands, or property belonging to mosques, from all liabilities of any kind, even the interference of the sovereign not excepted, has been found a great hinderance to progress of improve ment. There is a naval hospital in the city, intended for the special benefit of that service, but to which other persons are admitted on an order from the governor. There are also a school for the marine, and a board composed of naval officers, for examining into the merits of candidates for appointments in the navy. The most remarkable evidence, however, of Mehemet Ali s liberality of sentiment, is to be found in the circumstance of his having lately granted a plot of ground in Alexandria, for the site of a Protestant chapel (begun to build in 1847), for the use of the British community there. There is a slave market in the town, but it is not always open ; and, in such cases, the slaves are paraded through the streets, and are stopped and examined like beasts of burden, Alexandria has two ports, one on the E. side, called the New, or Asiatic harbour; the other on the \V., called the Old port (anc. Eunostos}. The entrance to the latter is difficult, there being many shoals on which there is not suffi cient water to float vessels of large size, and firstrate line-of- battle ships are obliged to take out their guns, to enable them to enter with safety. Once in, however, they have good anchorage, with ample depth of water. The deepest part, due W. and due N. of the catacombs, is from 10 to 11 fathoms ; within 200 ft. of the shore, it is from 4 to 6 fathoms : and immediately under the town, a cable s length off", 3 and 4 fathoms. The Old port might be made one of the finest in the world ; and if the improvements which have been going on for some time be continued, it is probable it will become so. The New harbour is greatly inferior to the latter, being much less, with a foul and rocky bottom, besides being exposed to the N. winds. The trade of Alexandria is considerable. The principal articles of export are cotton, beans, pease, rice, wheat, barley, gums, flax, hides, lentils, linseed, mother-of-pearl, sesamum, senna, ostrich feathers, &c. The chief imports from Great Britain are manufactured goods, coals, iroi goods, olive oil, indigo, earthenware, hardwares, sugar, cloth, drugs, machines, liquors, pitch, &c. The total exports for the following years, were: 1812 1,80 1,96(5 1850 3,153,570 181-7 2,434,249 1851 3,258,040 1848 1 572 565 1852 31180)6 1849 2,030,562 1853 3,472,000 The imports in 1847, 18.V2, and 1853, amounted to 1847, 1,393,406; 1852, 1,714,743; 1853, 2,670,000. Great Britain, France, and Austria are the largest impor ters from Alexandria. In 1853 the value of the goods they received from that port were: Great Britain, 1,787,546; France, 491,000; Austria, 389,000. The same year Alexandria imported from Great Britain goods to the value of 1,153,000; France, 242,000; Austria, 310,000. _ The following- are the quantities of the principal articles exported to Great Br tain in the years 1850-1853; Quantities. uriCLES. I8i0. 1851. ]&!. W53. CiilTee . Lh.i. u y cy t 14,942 416,044 9ii,HU Wheat .... Q/ .> 2r?!235 633,191 392,746 357,903 Barley * 10810 82,522 54,248 42,316 Beans 227,027 213,928 257,188 205 879 Maise.or Indian Corn 71,808 127,692 71,589 36,998 Cotton, Raw Gwts 167,581 131,393 409,139 250,607 I lax, Dressed ) Undressed. ) " 46,505 48,038 ( 14,030 ( 39,028 21,241 63,828 Oum Arabic 9,524 20,312 16,414 31,742 Hair or Goats ) Wool, i Manu-5- Value t 100,701 141,657 17-3,926 203,067 fact urea of ) Musk Ounce* 8,061 9,168 5,210 5,369 Opium Us 3,5+5 11,025 17,481 8,95 1 Seeds: Lentils. ..Bushel*. 68,210 156,975 231,224 94,421 Linseed & L lax Qrs 20,109 36,410 13,531 14,729 Senna ii- 226,371 124,860 40,450 30,568 Silk, Haw* , 203,696 242,004 911,408 1,863,30$ ., Thrown 13,632 6,087 13,fi67 1,914 Teeth, Klephants* Ctrl* 1,018 267 9S4 1,651 Tortoise Shell Lbi 5,090 20,390 7,18 ) 8,747 \Vo->l, Slieep ) and Lambs ... f 1,447,683 1,6 10,1 4S 1,917,553 2,038,125 * Chiclly transit from Ind a. ALEXANDRIA BO ALEXANDRIA The following are the quantities of the principal articles imported from Great Britain in the years 1850-1853: TABLE OF PKIKCIPAL IMPOKTS FROM GBKAT BRITAIN. PRINCI Apothecary Wares Ctcts Guns Ifo Gunpowder Lbs Hooks printed...... Ctcts Coals, Cinders, &c. Tom Copper, wrought > c . andimwruughtf Lwts Cottons YarJi Valued Cotton Yarn Lbs. Hardwares, &c Cwt. lron,wr t>ht&uu-) wrought, & un- > Tons wrought Steel... ) yncns Yards Machinery- Stcam-enj:mes... Pal. Other kinds , Plate, PiatedWare, ) Jewellery, and V Watches ) Woollens Pieces Yards 136 838 164 1,579 80,914 3,558 24038,104 0,650 62C,(ill 1,460 774 66,633 30,397 4.794 13:vl5(i .052. | 236 309 1,472 2,265 62,500 5,520 15,118,819 9,350 1,310,799 2,040 1,937 4,003 3,066 17,822 6,3(56 92,564 455 317 729 2,142 32,542 5,072 33,470,200 9,246 86 J,K95 1,553 25,288 66,123 12,538 15,965 51,256 3,522 103,722 368 411 55,672 2,790 18,447 4,068 i,S85,757 7,601 875 073 1,008 7,824 64,197 20,991 14,300 86,263 2,767 107.772 The number of vessels that left the port of Alexandria with cargoes in 1852, was 1708, of which 382 were British. The monopolizing spirit of the late Pasha, Mehemet Ali, operated most ruinously for the country, threatening its gene ral trade with entire annihilation. In 1842, he locked up in his own stores all the cotton in Egypt, and from these stores alone was the demand of foreign countries supplied, amount ing, in that year, to 1 10,290 bales. Not less injurious to the interests of the country than his own immediate monopolies, was a practice, largely adopted by Mehemet Ali, of farming the privilege of selling particular commodities, such as wine, spirits, vinegar, salt, &c., the price of such privilege being 1200 purses, or 6000. In 1838, a treaty was entered into by Great Britain with Mehemet Ali,wherein a great many impositions and exactions, affecting the trade between the two countries, were removed or modified, and the right of selling trading privileges resigned. But, in practice, matters remained much as they were, the Pasha evading or miscon struing every clause except those favourable to himself. Since the death of Mehemet Ali, a more liberal and enlightened policy has been pursued. Alexandria possesses a considerable transit trade, in consequence of being the principal station on the Overland route from Europe to India. Steamers sail to and from England, Marseilles, Trieste, and Constantinople, regularly, and goods, passengers, and mails pass thence to Cairo, then across the desert to Suez, and thence by the lied Sea and Arabian Sea to Bombay, Calcutta, China, &c. The climate of Alexandria is, on the whole, salubrious, and was considered eminently so by the ancients; but plague is of frequent occurrence, and singularly destructive. In March, 1835, 4250 persons died of plague, besides many whose deaths were not recorded, out of a population not exceeding 30,000. Two and twenty years previous to this, namely, in 1813, 7000 persons are said to have died of plague, out of a population then not more than 12,000. The source of these dreadful visitations is to be found, chiefly, in the miserable condition of the lower class of the inhabitants, who live in extreme poverty and wretchedness, filthy in their persons and their abodes. The most strange, the most disgusting sight in Alexandria, says Henniker, is this the eyes and mouths of all the children are literally embanked with flies. Their mouths are beset as if they were the mouths of honey bottles ; their eyes are too filthy for description. The population, as elsewhere remarked, is mixed, consisting of native Turks and Arabs, of Armenians, Greeks, Smyrniotes, Syrians, Moghrebins, Maltese, Jews, and Europeans, the fo reigners greatly outnumbering the natives. There is little so cial intercourse between the natives and the Franks, in conse quence of each adhering to their peculiar habits and customs; these, being irreconcilable, have the effect of keeping them al most entirely apart. The women are described, by a modern authoress, as being generally not merely ugly, but hideous. The municipal government of the city, at the head of which is a governor, is good in itself, and well conducted, securing the most perfect order, and freedom from riot and crime. The city is divided into quarters, each of which is presided over by a sheikh, who is responsible to the governor. There is also a chief police magistrate, called the bashaga, whose duty it is to maintain the quiet of the city. The military act as police, having orders to take all riotous and disorderly- persons into custody, and have them conveyed to one of the numerous guard-houses distributed all over the city. If the offender be a native, he is immediately punished ; if a Frank, he must be sent to his consul, to be dealt with according to the laws of his own country. Ancient History. The first inhabitants of Alexandria were a mixture of Egyptians and Greeks, to whom must be added numerous colonies of Jews transplanted thither in 33G, 320, and 312 B.C., to increase the population of the city and country, who, becoming familiar with the Greek language and learning, were called IMlcnists. It was they who, by order of Ptolemy Philadelphus, made the well-known Greek trans lation of the Old Testament under the name of the Septua- ffint. Under the liberal sway of the Ptolemies, Kings of Egypt, Alexandria attained to great eminence as a seat of learning, becoming not more famous for the extent of her com merce and wealth than for her philosophy and literature. The first calamity that befell the city was inflicted by the tyrant Ptolemy Physcon, who, without provocation, let his guards loose on the inhabitants, with permission to them to rob and murder at pleasure ; the consequence was the almost entire depopulation of the city. Physcon had afterwards in fluence sufficient to induce strangers from the neighbouring countries to take up their abode in Alexandria, and it was thus soon again repeopled ; but on the new inhabitants making some complaints of his tyranny, Physcon repeated his former atro city, ordering that all the young men in the city should be put to death, which order was carried into effect. The next event of importance was the capture of the city by Julius Cassar, after an obstinate resistance by the Alexandrians. The city scems after this to have fallen into decay. It was restored by Adrian A.U. 141, but was again depopulated A.D. 215, by Caniealla, who, having been made the subject of some satir ical efl usions, ordered a general massacre of the inhabitants without distinction of age or sex. Caracalla having been murdered shortly after, the city soon recovered its former splendour. Towards the middle of the sixth century, Amron, a general of the Caliph Omar, took Alexandria by storm, after a siege of 14 months, and with a loss of 23,000 men. From this period it fell into decay, till its ruin was completed by the discovery of the passage to India by the Cape of Good Hope. The most remarkable objects in ancient Alexandria were the Pharos one of the seven wonders of the world, and the libraries. The former, which was used as a lighthouse, was a square building of white marble. It was built by order of Ptolemy Philadelphus. The site of the ancient Pharos, which is no longer in existence, is occupied by an old lighthouse. The first of the famous libraries of Alexandria was estab lishcd by Ptolemy Soter, as was also the Museum, a sort of academy, in which men of learning and science pursued their inquiries. It was maintained at the public expense. At the time of the second Ptolemy s death, the library contained 100,000 volumes, afterwards increased to 700,000; of which number, 400,000 were in the library of the museum, in the quarter of the city called the Bruehion ; the remaining 300,000 were in a library attached to the temple of Serapis, a structure of surpassing beauty. The former were accidentally destroyed by fire during the war with Julius Caesar, and the latter by com mand of the Caliph Omar, who, in ordering their destruction, said, that if they agreed with the Koran, they were useless, and need not be preserved ; if they did not, they were pernicious, and ought to be destroyed. And thus was annihilated the most magnificent collection of books in the world a loss which the learned have not yet ceased to deplore. The population of modern Alexandria, says Wilkinson, had till latterly been on the decline, and is reported to have been reduced at one time to GOOO ; but, under the government of Mehemet Ali, it had greatly recovered, and is computed at present to amount to 80,000, including the garrison of 6000 or 8000 men, and the sailors of the fleet, reckoned at 12,000; leaving 60,000 for the population of the place. ALEXANDRIA 81 ALGARVE ALEXANDRIA, a tn. and district of Russia in Europe ; the former on the left bank of the Inguetz, gov. Kherson, 175 m. N.N.E. from the town of that name. It is the cap. of the district, and contains a pop. of 2500. The district is ex tensive, but heathy and sterile, excepting the banks of the rivers, which are more fertile. Pop. about 21,000. ALEXANDRIA, the name of various townships and other places, U. States, America, the principal of which is Alexandria, a seaport, and cap. of Alexandria co., a district of Columbia, 7 in. S. Washington. It is finely situated on the right bank of the Potomac ; is regularly laid out, the streets crossing each other at right angles. It has considerable shipping, there being sufficient depth of water to admit vessels of the largest class to its wharfs; the tonnage, in 1840, amounting to 14,470 ; the principal exports being wheat, flour, maize, and tobacco. It enjoys inland communication by a canal, which joins the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal at George town. Pop. in 1840, 8459. ALEXANDRIA, a pleasantly-situated vil., Scotland, co. Dumbarton, on the \V. bank of the Leven, 4 in. N. Dumbar ton. The inhabitants are nearly all employed in the extensive cotton printing works in the vicinity. There is a spacious church here, and an Independent chapel. Pop. 3039. ALEXANDRINA LAKE. See AUSTRALIA. ALEXANDROVKA. See ALEKSANDROVKA. ALEXANDROVSK, a tn. Eussia in Europe, gov. of, and 6 m. S. Ii. St. Petersburg, on the river Neva. There is a royal villa here, with a magnificent garden; a sugar refinery ; a large tannery ; and, at a short distance from the town, the imperial manufactory of porcelain. ALEXISBAD, a resort for mineral waters, in Anhalt Bernburg, 2 m. W. Harzgerode, in the valley, and on the left bank of the Selke. There are here three wells, named, respectively, Selkenbrunu, Alexisbrunn, and Ernabrunn all of which are chalybeate ; the first being by far the strongest, and only used externally ; the other two are used internally. ALEYBEH, a vil., W. Africa, near the left bank of the Senegal; lat. 16 50 N. ; Ion. 14 4 W. It is a large and populous place. The people are a spirited race, and often at war with the Moors and neighbouring tribes. (Raffenel s Afrique Occidentale.) ALEYOR. See ALAYOH. ALFAQUES PUERTO DE LOS, a small port, Spain, prov. Catalonia, on the Mediterranean, and belonging to Tor- losa, with which it is connected by a navigable canal, from 15 to 20 ft. in depth ; lat. 40 37 42" N.; Ion. 35 W. (R.) The bay in which it lies affords good and safe anchorage, in 3 to 4 fathoms depth, and yields large quantities of salt, which constitutes the principal article of export. There is no good water in Alfaques. The needful supply of this necessary of of life is obtained from the neighbouring town of San Carlos de la Ropita; where, moreover, the custom house is situated. ALPARO, a city, Spain, Old Castile, prov. of, and 34 m. E.S.E. from Logroflo, on the right bank of the Ebro; having six capacious squares, and several wide, clean, and well-paved streets ; two handsome churches, and a chapel ; a large hos pital, three endowed schools, townhall, prison, a castle, fine barracks, theatre, and extensive storehouses. Manufactures: Cloth, hats, saltpetre, brandy, and leather; and there are several corn and oil mills at work. The vicinity produces grain, wine, oil, flax, hemp, silk, and abundance of fine fruits. Sheep, goats, mules, horses, and horned cattle, are reared; for the sale of which, and other merchandise, a fair is held in August. Pop. 4084. (Madoz.) ALFELD, a tn. Hanover, prov. of, and 12 m. S.W. from Hildersheim, at the confluence of the Warne with the Seine, which is here crossed by three bridges. It is walled, and has four gates, a massive townhouse, a Lutheran Gothic church, a normal school, and two small hospitals. Some trade is done in linen and yarn ; and tile making, lime burning, beer brewing, and tanning, are carried on. In the vicinity, flax and hops are cultivated ; and there are corn, oil, paper, and saw mills. Pop. 2709. (Huhn s Lex. Deutscliland.) ALFOLD, or AWFOLD, a par. England, co. Surrey ; area, 2610 ac.; on Arun and Wey Junction Canal. Pop. in 1841 519. ALFORD, a district and par. Scotland, co. Aberdeen, the former comprising 14 parishes, with a pop. altogether VOL. I. of 12, 091. It is nearly surrounded by hills and mountains ; is watered by the Don, and has a good climate. The parish contains 8000 Scottish acres, and a pop. of 1037. Jn this parish, a battle was fought on July 2, 1645, between the covenanting army under General Baillie, and the royalists under Montrose, when the former was defeated. About the middle of the last century, the body of a man in complete armour, on horseback, supposed to have perished in the above engagement, was dug out of a moss in this parish. ALFORD. 1, A par. and township, England, co. Lin coln ; area, 1410 ac. ; 24 m. N.N.E. Boston. It has a hand some church, several charities, and two annual fairs for cattle and sheep. A rivulet and a canal traverse this parish. Pop. in 1841, 1945. 2, A par., co. Somerset; area, 710 ac. ; 1 m. S.W. Castlecary, on the river Brue. Pop. in 1841, 90. ALFORJA, a tn. Spain, Catalonia, prov. of, and 15 m. W. by N. from Tarragona ; built on rising ground, surrounded by old walls, with four gates. It is well and openly built ; has some spacious squares, a parish church, some schools, an hospital, a poor asylum, and an excellent fountain. The inhabitants are employed in distilling brandy, and in cultivat ing corn, wine, oil, fruits, and vegetables. Pop. 2230. ALFORT, a hamlet, France, dep. Seine, about 5 m. S.E. Paris, upon the left bank of the Marne, which separates it from Charenton ; celebrated for its royal veterinary school, the largest establishment of the kind in the kingdom, instituted in 1766, having a special library; a cabinet of comparative anatomy, and one of pathology ; with hospitals for the sick horses ; a botanic garden ; chemical laboratory, &c. Pop. 700. ALFRETON, a small market tn. England, co. Derby, 12 m. N.N.E. Derby ; supposed to have derived its name from Alfred the Great. The inhabitants are chiefly occupied in the manufacture of stockings and brown earthenware, and in the neighbouring collieries and iron works. The town is irregularly built, and many of the houses are very old. A mile and a half to the W. of the town, the North Midland Railway passes. Pop. in 1841, of tn., 1774 ; of par., 7577. ALFRISTON, a par. England, co. Sussex; area, 2120 ac. Pop. in 1841, 668. ALGARINEJO, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 26 m. W. from Granada ; extremely well built, with broad streets, and good houses, a handsome square, two churches, several schools, a public granary, numerous fountains, a theatre, and a prison. The inhabitants are employed in weaving, distilling brandy, making soap, expressing oil, and cultivating grain, fruits, and vegetables. Sheep, goats, pigs, mules, and asses, are reared, and game is plentiful in the vicinity. Pop. 4383. (Madoz.) ALGARK1RK, a par. England, co. Lincoln; area, 6050 ac. ; 8 m. N.N.E. Spalding, statue of Edgar, Earl of Mercia, who obtained a victory over the Danes here in 870, but was slain next day. Pop. in 1841, 754. ALGARROBO, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 18 m. E. by N. from Malaga, on rising ground near the coast of the Mediterranean. It is ill built, mean, and irregular ; but has a square, a church with a clock tower, a chapel, and an elementary school. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in farm labour, mule driving, cotton weaving, and manufacturing earthenware. Pop. 2954. (Madoz.) ALGARVE, or ALOARVA, a maritime prov., once a king dom, Portugal, the smallest and most S. of the Portuguese provinces, bounded, N. by Alemtejo, E. by Spain, and S. and W. by the Atlantic Ocean ; 90 m. in length, about 20 m. in breadth ; divided into three comarcas or districts, and con taining four cities, 12 towns, 60 villages, and 67 parishes, cap. Faro. Its N. boundary is composed of the Monchique hills, none of whose summits rise higher than 2500 ft. above the sea level ; these, with the Figo, Calderao, and Foia hills (the last the highest in the province, some of the summits being nearly 4000 ft. high), belong to the system of the Morena, the most S. branch of the Pyrenean range. They yield oak, and pasture for goats. On the S. coast are many excel lent bays and harbours, as Lagos, Faro, Tavira, and Castro Marim. The surface of the province is mountainous ; but the soil of the valleys is fertile, though shallow and little culti vated, and not bearing corn sufficient for its own population. Excellent oil, wine, figs, almonds, and olives, are produced and exported. The fisheries, chiefly of tunny and sardines, are very productive, but the coral fishery has long since been 11 ALGATOCIN els ALGERIA abandoned. At the S. W. extremity of the province lies Cape St. Vincent, memorable for the victory won over a Spanish fleet, by Admiral Sir John Jervis, afterwards Lord St. Vincent, Feb. 14, 1797. The coast people are considered the best sailors in Portugal, and most of the Lisbon boatmen are natives of Algarve. Pop. of prov. in 1835, 135,260. ALGATOCIN, a tu. Spain, iu Andalusia, prov. of, and 46 m. W. by S. from Malaga, on a skirt of the sierra Tajo de la Cima. It has a small square, and several narrow, steep, and unpaved streets ; a parish church, townhall, prison, school, and a fine fountain. The inhabitants are engaged in agricul ture and feeding cattle ; and in manufacturing soap, brandy, and oil. Pop. 2348. (Madoz.) ALGA YD A, a tn. Spain, isl. Majorca, 13 m. E. by S. Palmas, on a rising ground, irregularly built and ill paved. It has a parish church, two schools, a consistory, public prison, and abattoir. Manufactures : Brandy, flour, and iron. The neighbourhood is extremely fertile, producing corn, wine, figs, and other fruit, which are sent to the markets of Palmas. Pop. 2860. ALGECIRAS, or ALGESIRAS [The island!, a tn. and sea port, Spain, in Andalusia, prov. Cadiz, on the W. side of Bay of Gibraltar, 7 m. N.W. Point Europa, and 54 ni. S.E. Cadiz, in lat. (mole) 36 8 N., and Ion. 5 26 W. (R.) The modern town occupies an acclivity rising pretty rapidly from, the sea, opposite the Isla Verde, on which stood the older town, once so strong as to be considered the key of Spain, but now little better than a mere ruin. Algeciras has no walls, but is defended by a fort on a neighbouring hill ; it is well built, with wide, paved, and clean streets, and has three squares, one of which, at the top of the town, is elevated 220 ft. above the bay, and is very handsome, planted with trees, and, in the centre, it has a large ornamental fountain plentifully supplied with water ; another of the squares is used as a market place, and occasionally also as a bull ring. The public buildings and establishments comprise two churches, one of which is hand some, and of modern construction ; three chapels ; a well- endowed charity school, which boards as well as educates up wards of 1000 children, a townhall and courthouse, a military hospital with 160 beds, a civil hospital and foundling asylum in the same building, cavalry and infantry barracks, a theatre, large prison, and an agreeable alameda, bull ring and campo-santo, or burial ground, outside the town. The public fountains are supplied by means of a fine modern aque duct, which conveys the water from springs on the neighbour ing hills, over a double series of arches, about 6 furlongs in length, rising 45 ft. above the small river Miel. " The town is well supplied with neat cafe s and hotels, and the warehouses are elegant. A recent German traveller says the people are venal and deceitful, their character being much deterio rated by the extensive smuggling transactions carried on from this port. The employment of the inhabitants is divided between navigation and trade. Algeciras has considerable manufactures of coarse linen cloth and cotton fabrics, sombrero hats, gloves, brown and stained paper, and playing cards, copper utensils, earthenware, and tiles, with four tanneries busily employed in preparing morocco leather. Its exports consist of charcoal, leather, rough and prepared cork, tiles, and sweet potatoes, principally to Cadiz and Malaga, and provisions to Ceuta, averaging in yearly value about 60,429 ; while it receives, chiefly for its own consumption, corn, wine, oil, cloth, colonial produce, and other articles, including brandy obtained by barter from the rural inhabitants of the interior, the whole annually valued at 40,255. The average number of vessels, mostly engaged in the coasting trade, that annually leave the port is 504, of an aggregate tonnage of 31,338 tons ; and of those that enter, 572, of an aggregate tonnage of 56,373 tons. The port is not approachable by vessels drawing more than 12 ft. water. The mole is situated about J m. N.W. the Isla Verde, and runs out eastward ; the small river Miel debouching southward, and capable of receiving small vessels at high water. Shoals and reefs render the navigation difficult in making Algeciras. There is also a small dock yard. Algeciras, which was built by the Moors, and taken from them by Alonzo X., in 1344, after a 20 months siege, is memorable in British naval history, as the scene of a gallant victory achieved, June 9, 1801, by Admiral Saumarez, over the combined French and Spanish fleet. It is thought by some to have been the Carteia of Koman geography, and the Mclcarth of the Phenicians, celebrated for its long-lived king Arganthonius ; but this is a mistake, as an amphitheatre and other ruins of the Carteia, sacked by Scipio Africanus, n.C. 171, are still to be seen at El-Kocadillo, between Algeciras and Gibraltar. Pop. 11,080. (Madoz; Ford s Sjxdn Sail ing Directions; Willkomm s Zwei Jahre in fyxatifti.) ALGEMESI, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 20 m. S. by "W. from Valencia, on the \V. bank of the Juc.tr, having spacious and regular streets, with four well-built squares, a handsome church and some chapels, three schools, a small townhall, several convents, and an hospital. The people are employed chiefly in grinding oil, wheat, and rice, and in distilling brandy. The surrounding country, which is flat and argilla ceous, though not particularly fertile, yields a considerable quantity of rice, and a good number of mulberry trees, on which the silkworm is fed, the rearing of which insect consti tutes a considerable branch of industry to the inhabitants of Algemesi. Pop. 4500. ALGERIA, or ALGERIE, a territory of N. Africa, once the Turkish regency or pash. of Algiers, but, since 1830, a French colonial prov. ; bounded, N. by the Mediterranean Sea, E. by the regency of Tunis, S. by the great Sahara desert, and W. by the empire of Morocco ; being comprised between Ion. 2 W. and 8 45 E. ; and between 37 5 N. lat. seaward, and an irregular line stretching S. as far as the 34th N. parallel. Its greatest length from E. to W. is about 600 m., its greatest breadth about 160 or 170 m. ; and its superficial area has been vaguely estimated at 90,000 sq. m., much of which, however, is only nominally under the dominion of the French. The country, under the Turks, was divided into the four provinces of Algiers, Oran, Constautina, and Titterie; but, since 1843, the French have comprised it within the three of these first named. Algiers is subdivided into four departments, Oran into four, and Constantina into three. The zone, or stripe of cultivated land lying between the mountains and the sea, is called the Tell ; it varies in breadth from 50 m. in the provinces of Oran and Titterie, to 120 m. in the province of Constantina. Mountains, Plains, &c. The Algerian territory is moun tainous, consisting principally of the ridges or slopes of Mount Atlas, which ramifies throughout Algeria, enclosing several plains and valleys, sloping towards the Mediterranean Sea. The principal of these are the Wanashrees, in the province of Oran, and the Jurjura, S.E. of Algiers ; both of which are capped with snow in winter, the chain of the lesser Atlas, which terminates W. of Bona, being the extreme slope of the last longitudinal terrace of the N. Atlas. A few peaks of the greater Atlas rise between 9000 and 10,000 ft, whereas the highest peak in the lesser Atlas, Mount Gugerat, is only 6800 ft. Several low plains lie between the lesser Atlas and the coast, the longest being that of Blida, or Metidjah, S. of Algiers ; it is nearly 44 m. long and 16 broad, and rises towards the Atlas range from a sandy flat covered with grass and brush wood, to the beautiful green slopes of the mountains diversified by meadows, fields, and woods, closely resembling the scenery of Europe. S. W. of Oran is a sandy plain, which becomes a kind of salt marsh in winter. In the S. province are some rich level tracts, watered by the Hainma, or llamsa. The coast line, which is about 600 m. in length, consists nearly of an uninterrupted succession of cliffs. Itivers, Lakes, Marshes. None of the rivers of Algeria, most of which flow into the Mediterranean, are navigable for any great distance above their embouchure. The country is everywhere intersected by water courses, which, although dry fora part of the year, bring down, during the rains, a quantity of water, which floods and fertilizes the plains. These streams are divided by the Atlas range into those which flow N. to the Mediterranean, and those that run S., and are lost in the lakes, swamps, or sands of the Sahara. One of the prin cipal rivers is the Shellif, which rises on the S. of the Jebel Wanashrees, from a number of sources, called The 70 foun tains, and, flowing first E. and then N., in the course of which it forms the lake and swamp of Titterie, falls into the Medi terranean 80 m. N.E. Oran. Another considerable stream is the Aduse, which receives during its course various other appellations, passes N.E. along the S. base of the Jebel Jur jura, and, after being joined by a pretty large affluent, called the Ajebby, about 15 m. from the sea, falls into the latter a little to the E. of Cape Carbon. The other streams worth naming, that fall ii.to the Mediterranean, are the Seibus, the ALGERIA ALGERIA Kibir, the Isser, and the "Wedjer. There are, besides, vari ous small rivers that discharge their waters into the swamp of Al-Shott ; and the large united streams of the Adjedi and the Abiad are lost in the salt marsh of Melgig. Geological Features. The primary formations, which are found chiefly on the ranges of Mount Atlas, comprise gneiss, and micaceous schist, with smaller patches of granite. The secondary rocks consist of lias and calcareous beds, containing few organic remains ; and those of the tertiary period are chieflyi>f a yellow gray limestone, or sand, and tertiary clay, enclosing beds of gypsum, iron, and salt. It had long been supposed that Algeria had no volcanic rocks ; but travertine is found at Oran ; and at Calle, as well as elsewhere, are distinct traces of ancient volcanoes. As regards mineral products, iron is most abundant, especially in the province of Oran. Copper is found also in considerable quantities ; and there are rich lead mines in the Jebel Wanashrees, and near Mascara, which are said to yield 80 per cent, of pure metal. Cinna bar, also, is wrought in small quantities ; and there are exten sive quarries of nitre, salt, talc, and potter s clay. Salt and thermal springs are numerous. Climate. The climate of Algeria, on the table lands of the lesser Atlas, is salubrious and temperate, being unhealthy only near the marshy plains, or on the coasts at the outlets of flooded valleys. The average annual temperature may be stated at 50 or 60 Fah. ; but, during the hot season, it frequently rises to 100 ; and during the cool season, it falls as low as 36. The barometer varies but little amidst all the changes of the weather ; and the annual average fall of rain at Algiers may amount to 28 inches. The prevailing winds are N., varying from due N. to N.E. and N.W., which materially temper the character of the climate. At certain seasons, the khamsin, or hot wind of the Sahara, blows for a few days in succession, considerably increasing the temperature, and even blighting vegetation. It also injures the human constitution, the dust with which it is charged producing ophthalmia. The Tell of Algeria, however, is greatly sheltered by the ele vated ridge of the greater Atlas ; and even the sandy Sahara con tains many verdant spots, refreshed by the winter rains, and well protected from the scorching blast of the desert. The mild season begins in March and ends in June; the heats lasting from July to November, and the rains from December to February. At the base of the Atlas chain, the trees are evergreen, except in December ; and, by February, vegetation is in full vigour, the harvest being ripe in May. Vegetable Productions and Cultivation. When duly irri gated, the soil of Algeria is as fertile as in the S. territories of Europe. Many of the hills are clothed with wood to the summit, the forests forming, indeed, a chief portion of the natural wealth of the country. Down to the year 1841, the French authorities were but imperfectly aware of their extent or value ; since which, nearly 200,000 square acres have been appropriated for the benefit of the state, besides what had been previously ascertained and turned to account ; and, in 1845, a head inspector, and 67 officers, were employed in the Algerian woods. The custom of firing undergrowth, in order to enrich the pasture grounds, has denuded many hitherto thickly-wooded tracts of their finest timber. The fig tree, of which there are numerous varieties, is a native of the country, and in some districts is cultivated to a great extent. The pomegranates are abundant, and, when covered with its scarlet flowers, is a most beautiful object. From the fruit of the jujube tree, which is very common, an agreeable kind of cider is made. The orange and lemon groves are very extensive, and have a splendid appearance, particularly in April, when they are covered with both flowers and fruit. The tree is generally about 30 ft. in height. The carob, or locust tree, is found wild on the hills ; its wood is considered imperish able, and the fruit is sold in the shops. Cherry trees are also met with in the wild state. The date palm is cultivated in the interior of the country only. The black mulberry, and wild olive trees, are the largest in the country, and tl" e latter is amongst the most common, especially in the vicinity of Algiers. Vines are grown in several places, from tl e produce of which good wines are made ; but the culture of the grape is not extending, the French colonists being un willing to run the risk of planting, as the vine does not yield fruit for three years. The principal cereal crops are barley and red wheat; the former cut in May, and the latter in June. A little rye is also cultivated by the French colonists. In reaping the corn, the ear only is cut off, the straw being left for the cattle. There is no preparatory tillage of the ground before sowing ; the grain is thrown on the ground and ploughed in by a very simple plough, drawn by oxen or horses, and sometimes by a horse and a cow yoked together. The furrows run in all directions, and, by their frequently crossing one another, leave sometimes small triangular spaces unploughed. j The sugar cane has been tried, but without success, owing to j the winter frost. With indigo and cochineal the result has been more favourable. Tobacco has been tried, and with such success as to lead to the hope that it may become a staple article of produce. But one of the most useful veget able productions of the country is the dwarf palm, which covers large districts. Its leaves are made into baskets, cords, fans, sacks, sleeping mats, &c., and the tender foot stalks of the leaves, and the young flowers, form a principal article of food for the Arabs. The culinary vegetables com prise pease, beans, potatoes, artichokes, onions, carrots, lettuce, gourds, cucumbers, parsley, basilic, sweet savory, chervil, fennel, mint, marjoram, &c., all of which are in great demand. The flora of Algeria is nearly identical with that of the S. of Spain, and of Andalusia in particular. (Hag. of Nat. Hist., No. 24.) The French Government has done much to improve the agriculture of the country, and early established a model garden, orchard, and nursery, at Algiers, which has now several dependent establishments in other parts. Zoology, Besides the animals common to the opposite S. regions of Europe, the lion, leopard, jackal], and hyena, are occasionally seen in the fastnesses of the upper Atlas. There are also antelopes, jerboas, c., and a few monkeys ; and near the Sahara, vultures and ostriches are met with. There are some chameleons, and a few scorpions and serpents, but most of the latter are harmless. Locusts occasionally visit the country, and are sometimes destructive to the harvests. The coasts abound with fish, including fine tunny. Native Population. The indigenous population comprises Kabylcs, Moors, Arabs, Turks, Koloughs, and Jews. The Kabylcs (called also Berbers] form nearly a half of the whole ; they inhabit the mountains lying towards the desert of Sahara, where they live in small villages. They are athletic, well formed, and possessed of great powers of endurance; but they are mostly robbers, cruel and faithless, yet practising hospi tality. Although ostensibly shepherds, they occupy themselves much in hunting, in which they exhibit much boldness and dexterity. The mountain shepherds dwell in caves, like the ancient Troglodytes. The Berbers, however, are the most ancient inhabitants of N. Africa. The Moors are a bastard race, formed by the intermixture of various races ; the majority of their ancestors being invaders, or immigrants from Morocco or other regions of the W. Indeed, men even of Arab blood are sometimes called Moors, if dwelling in towns; whilst pure Arabs, on the other hand, who live in tents, are called Bedouins. The latter are tall and muscular, with spirited, handsome countenances, large piercing black eyes, aquiline noses, regular white teeth, full strong beards, and black hair. The complexion of the people northward is light brown ; darkening southward, till at last it is black, though without the negro physiognomy, which first shows itself in Soodan. The Arabs are a more or less nomadic race, dwelling in tents, in bodies of from 10 or 12, to 100 families; every family under a sheikh, who is at once priest, legislator, and judge. They constantly war, and in the most savage manner, either with the Berbers, each other, or the French, that being their regular business, and most of their income plunder. They universally hate Christians, but are not less dissembling than the Moors and Berbers, their hospitality being never avail able to Christians, except within their little encampments. The Arabs are originally Asiatics, and have preserved their distinctive habits for perhaps 30 centuribs; but it is probable that, at one period, they have greatly intermixed with the Berbers. The Turks, during three centuries masters in the land, have dwindled to a handful since the French conquest. The Koloughs, or children of soldiers, are a mixed race, from Turkish men and Moorish women. There are likewise many Jews, especially in Algiers and Oran; and carrying on a con siderable foreign trade. Although treated with contempt by the Moslems previous to the French occupation, without protection for property or even life, and obliged to live in a ALGERIA. ALGERIA separate quarter, apart from the other inhabitants, they were the organs of nearly all the business of the country. Their treatment by the French, however, has been much ameliorated, And their habits and creed are held in respect. The nature of the religion of the Kabyles is nearly unknown; but Islamism is the creed of all the other native races, except the Jews. The general language of the country is Arabic, adulterated by foreign words, and others from the Berber or Kabyle dialect. Population. The total indigenous population of Algeria is estimated by some at about 2,000,000, and by others at double that amount ; but the exact number cannot yet be satisfactorily ascertained. The progress of the increase of the European population, as will be seen from the following figures, has been rapid: In 1810 28,736 1841 35,870 1843 46,100 1843 58,985 In 1814 75,420 1845 98,190 1847 103,893 1849 ii2,r,o; 5420 440 600 400 The native town population, in 1849, amounted to 84,133. Religion and Education. In 1845, there were 12,000 E. catholics in Algeria, having 24 churches, and 23 chapels; with a bishop, and 55 priests, performing religious duty not only in churches and chapels, but also in the hospitals and prisons. The Protestants, also, have consistories at Algiers and Oran. The Moslem and Jewish town population amount to about 82,000. In 1845, the French Government disbursed for public worship as follows : Francs Roman Catholics 135,500 Protestants (five pastors) 11,000 Moslems (six muftis and seven imuns) ... 15,000 Jews (six rabbis) 10,000 Total state stipends for four ministries ) m 500 JT^J of worship, ) The public education is nnder an inspector, appointed by the French Minister. A college at Algiers has 1 5 professors, who give instruction in Arabic and French, as well as mathemat ical and practical science, to about 150 students. Oran, Bona, Philippeville, and Bougia, have also their respective schools, attended by about 1600 pupils, of whom three-fourths are European, and one-sixth Jews; and in all the leading towns are communal and primary schools. The ignorance of the natives, however, is deplorable; and hitherto, owing partly to indolence, partly to religious prejudice, they have rejected all attempts at their mental improvement. Algiers has likewise a theological seminary, and a college for Arabs of high rank. Nuns, also, of several orders, have formed schools for the natives in various districts. Trade, Manufactures, &c. The trade of Algeria continued for many years in a very backward state, the imports being very materially in excess of the exports. Though the balance is still greatly to the side of imports, yet rapid approaches are making towards an equilibrium, as will be seen from the following returns: Imports. Exports. 1840 2,200, 1 :>0 151,570 1844 8,201,770 321,550 1853 2,911,520 1,231,30.1 The exports of 1853 exceeded those of 1852 by 369,122, a sum greater than the amount of the total exports in 1844. Tobacco, grown in the country, is an important article of export; and in 1853 there were, in the provinces of Algiers, Constantina, and Oran, 3277 plantations of this vegetable. The produce of this article in 1855 was estimated at 9,086,000 Ibs.; in the first half of that same year, 6,464,037 Ibs. were exported to Marseilles alone. The Algerian tobacco excels that of Egypt, Macedonia, and Greece, and approaches in flavour that of Hungary and Maryland. The produce of silk has likewise increased greatly. In the province of Algiers, in 1850, there were only 89 cultiva tors of the silk- worm; but, in 1853, they had increased to 335, producing a total of 31,000 Ibs. cocoons of excellent quality. Algerian madder, also, is much esteemed, being reckoned equal to that produced in Cyprus. The cultivation of cotton, long only attempted in limited experiments, increased tenfold in 1853, and promises impor tant results; and the dwarf palm (Cliamcerops humilis), once almost a scourge to the agriculturists, is now likely to become a most important vegetable product, in consequence of recent researches having shown its fibre to be suited for various economical purposes. The exports of wool, a staple Algerian product, rose from 7,137,750 Ibs. in 1852, to 9,579,878 Ibs. in 1853. In the same year, argentiferous lead, to the value of 82,714, was exported, and the produce of the white marble quarries in creased considerably. The coral fisheries employ 156 vessels, obtaining, on the average, 506 Ibs. coral each value about 23s. per Ib. The principal imports are cotton, woollen, and silk goods, and refined sugar. A ready sale is always found among the natives for calicoes of all descriptions, ordinary manufactured stuffs, common cloths, muslins, turbans, silken and woollen girdles, cotton thread, coral for chaplets and necklaces, anti mony for dyeing the eyebrows, English dyewoods, spices, spectacles, hardware goods, arms, carbines, tea, mirrors, glass ware (including beads and rings), and Spanish piastres, the latter exchangeable in the Soodan for their weight in gold. The manufactures of Algeria are exceedingly backward, owing alike to the indolence and ignorance of the natives. The Jews take the higher branches of handicraft, as jewellery, watch making, tailoring, &c.; the Arabs are employed principally as carpenters and tanners ; the negroes as masons, bricklayers, &c.; and the Kabyles manufacture gunpowder, and work in the iron, lead, and copper mines. The chief manufactures comprise linen, woollen, and silk fabrics; saddlery, carpets, firearms, hardware goods, coarse pottery, and gunpowder. Means of Communication. The roads, previous to the conquest, were exceedingly defective ; indeed, there was not a regularly formed road in the whole territory. It appeared, however, by the documents accompanying the French gen eral budget of 1845, that the Government engineers had com pleted, up to the close of the 15th year of occupation, 4500 m. of substantial roadway; much of which was effected by the enforced labour of soldiers under penalty for infractions of law and discipline. Since the above date, many new lines have been formed, with armed posts, in outlying districts, at medium intervals of 50 miles. Government. Algeria, which is divided into the three provinces of Algiers, Oran, and Constantina, was, before 1830, under a Turkish dey, or pasha, of absolute authority, elected by, and ruling over the army ; but it is now under tlie supreme power of a go vernor-general, appointed by the French Government; and under him are a secretary and intendant, the latter of whom is termed the director of Arabian affairs. The governor occupies also the post of commander-in-chief. There is likewise a council of management, composed of three mem bers, the director of the interior, the naval commandant, mili tary intendant, attorney-general, and director of finances, nom inated by the Government, who advise upon and confirm the acts of the governor general. There is also a council (conseil des contentieux), formed of a president and four other mem bers, who take cognizance of minor criminal and civil offences. All the civil provinces, besides, have their mayors, justices of peace, and commissaries of police. In Algiers, also, there is a tribunal of commerce. The pecuniary cost to France of Algeria as a dependency has been very diversely estimated. By a reference to the French budgets for recent years we find a total avowed average expenditure, on account of this important possession, of fully 1,200,000 annually. In 1853, the sum allocated for public works (civil) alone was 242,800, being an augmentation in that item for the pre vious year of about 24,000. On the other hand, while the value of Algerian produce exported to France in 1852 was but 200,000, in 1853 it amounted in value to 640,000 an increase of 206 per cent. Much of the money spent in the country is necessarily placed at the disposition of the military authorities, the army of occupation being so numer ous, and is entered, under various heads, in the special budget of the French war department. Military Force. Under the Turks the dey maintained a force of 10,000 infantry and 6000 cavalry, which latter con sisted chiefly of Arabs and Kabyles. The military force kept up by the French comprises about 70,000 men, one- tenth of whom are natives; and the principal military posts are at Algiers, Bona, Calla, Guelma, Misserghin, and Mas- agram ; besides which, there are garrisons of French troops, to overawe the natives, in all the larger towns. ALGERIA 85 History. The country now called Algeria, says the Chev alier de Tapies, in his excellent work, Statistique Morale de la France, ctde VAngleterre, after having reached an extraor dinary degree of prosperity and greatness under the Carthagin ians for 700 years, and again under the Romans for 600, fell afterwards into the power of the Vandals, and after these came the Arabs. These last, newly converted to Mahometanisiii, and commanded by skilful leaders, had formed, in 1068, a vast empire, which, in the sequel, was broken up into petty mon archies ; and then the province of Algiers made part of the kingdom of Telesmsan, or Tlemsen. In after days, the brothers Moudji and Kain-ed-din, noted corsairs, who were the terror of mariners, aided by a band of Turkish pirates, established themselves as sovereign masters of the city of Algiers; and, from that time (A.D. 1506), it became the seat of Barbary piracy, and so continued for more than three centuries, to the disgrace of all Christian nations. The Turkish military at no time exceeded a total of from 13,000 to 18,000, in the region of Algiers; at all times they dwelt apart, as an alien caste, disdaining to intermarry among the people of the country. This collective body chose a pasha, who, in his turn, appointed six subordinates, called beys, who administered the affairs of the provinces in his name. All natives were excluded from superior military, political, and administrative functions. Finally, an auxiliary corps of Arabian cavalry, about 6000 strong, completed this system of armed compression, organized by the successors of the pirate brothers. In the city of Algiers alone, in the year 1576, it was ascer tained that there were 25,000 Christian slaves held in rigorous bondage. Several powers of Christendom had in vain endea voured to extirpate these pirates ; for no sooner were the hostile squadrons sent to chastise them drawn off, than they recommenced their depredations. Finding it in vain to attempt to subdue them by force of arms, the Christian powers gradually adopted the less troublesome expedient of paying a regular tribute to the pasha (now called dey) of Algiers, to euable their subjects to traverse the European seas in peace. Matters remained in this state till 1655, when Admiral Blake, by a well-administered castigation, taught the Algerines, for the first time, to entertain a due respect for the British flag; and he was followed about half a century later, by Admiral Matthews, who compelled them to submit to humil iating terms, and to pay a heavy fine. These people, however, continued to a much later period to be the terror of the Dutch, Danes, Swedes, Italians, and even Russians, hundreds of whose sailors these pirates captured, and sold into slavery. In 1815, the Americans captured an Algerine frigate, and compelled the dey to renounce all exactions, and to pay an indemnity of $60,000. But to Lord Exmouth, arid the British fleet, was reserved the honour of effecting the entire abolition of Christian slavery in the Barbary states. This was accom plished, July 26, 1816, by bombarding the town and port of Algiers, with 1 3 English and six Dutch ships, when the fleet and arsenal of the Algerines was utterly annihilated, and the libera tion of 1008 captives effected, together with the repayment of ransom to Sicily and Sardinia, amounting to $383,500. Besides this, the dey was compelled to sign a treaty, by which the practice of enslaving Christians was abolished. Eleven years after this period, an insult offered by Hussein Pasha, the last dey, to the French consul, whom he struck in a moment of irrita tion, induced the Government of France to send an expedition against Algiers. This armament consisted of 102 vessels of war, great and small, with 500 transports, in which were em barked 34, 184 soldiers. The vessels contained a vast amount of niateriel, and abundance of stores for the troops, and fodder for their horses. General Bourmont was chosen to command the army, Admiral Duperre the fleet, Capt. Hugon the convoy. All set sail from Toulon, May 25, 1830; they shortly after touched at Palma, in Majorca, where they remained a few days, and arrived, June 13, on the coasts of the Algerian terri tory. On the 14th, the troops landed at Sidi-Feruch, 15 m. W. from the city of Algiers. After some fighting, in which the French had always the advantage, Algiers opened its gates, July 13, when the dey gave up his city, government, and treasure ; the latter estimated at 48,000,000 francs, nearly 2,000,000 sterling exclusive, it may be added, of what was taken away privately, or hidden from the French. The following statement of the spoil taken from the Alger ines at the conquest, is from the Statistiqiie Frangaise Uni- verselle : Francs. In coined money and precious metals 48,084,527 or 1,947,400 Other stored public property, including wool 3,000,000 120,1100 Brass cannon, artillery, &c 4,000,000 160,000 55,684,527 or 2,227,400 The war expenses of the invasion, to January 1831, had amounted to 25,000,000 francs (995,000), not including those of the co-operative marine force, which amounted to about 23,000,000 francs (919,000), making a total outlay of about 48,000,000 francs, or 1,914,000. A few years after the nominal conquest of Algeria for it was little else, in reality, for many years subsequent to that event a formidable enemy to the French arose in the person of Abd-el-Kader, the Bey of Mascara; who, placing himself at the head of all the refrac tory Arabs in the W. parts of the country, kept the French at bay for upwards of 14 years now defeating them, and now himself discomfited but still keeping the field, and appearing after each defeat but the more vigorous for the reverse. In 1845, and during this protracted warfare between Abd-el- Kadcr and the French, the latter barbarously destroyed 500 or 600 Moors, by suffocating them with smoke in the cavern of Dahra, in which they had taken refuge. In retaliation of this dreadful atrocity, Abd-el-Kader, in the following year, put to death 300 French prisoners. Latterly, the war in Algeria had been carried on by the French against the person of Abd-el-Kader alone, who now resided entirely in the moun tainous tracts of Morocco. Here, hemmed in by the French, and by the forces of the Emperor of Morocco, who was in the French interest, and exhausted by numerous reverses, Abd- el-Kader at length surrendered (Dec. 22, 1847) to the French General, Lamoriciere, and thus terminated the war, leaving the conquerors in quiet possession of their conquest, and at full liberty and leisure to follow out those plans for the civil ization and general improvement of the country, which they seem to have earnestly entertained. One important proceeding in this direction is manifested in the form of geographical in quiry, in which they have been at once extremely zealous and successful. Through the exertions and ability of the French engineers, we are every day becoming better and better acquainted with Algeria a territory of which comparatively little was known before. Since their acquisition of this coun try, the French have published a map of it, remarkable for its accuracy ; they have also surveyed the Bays of Algiers and Bona, and the entire coast line from the former to Cape Spartel, a distance of about 500 m. Other maps are now in progress, based on a triangulation made by French officers, so that there can be little doubt that our geographical knowledge of this portion of Africa will soon be very complete, and greatly sur passing that of any other part of that continent Hitherto, the investigations of the French have been, for the most part, limited to the territory of Algeria, and to the more northern parts of the Sahara ; but it is probable that the latter will ultimately attract a large share of their attention, and lead to disclosures regarding that unknown region of great interest and importance. (Hist. Pittor. de VAfriqiie Franqaise, pp. 143-195; Voyages Nouveaux en Afrique, vol. ii. pp. 131-160; Quetin, Guide du Voyageur en Algtrie, passim, &c.) ALGEZARES, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 4 m. S. from Murcia, on the side of a ridge 6 m. S.W. Mount Cabeso Gordo; tolerably built, and having a parish church, chapel, and endowed school. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in agriculture, and raise grain, fruits, and vegetables, which they export to Gibraltar. Pop., including the hamlets of Garres and Sages, added in 1836 to this town, 2117. (Madoz.) ALGEZIRAH, or EL-JEZIKEH, a district, Asiatic Turkey, comprehending the N.W. and greater portion of the ancient Mesopotamia the country between the rivers, with which the modern appellation nearly corresponds in meaning. This district is slightly elevated above the sea, traversed by chains of hills, well watered and fertile, and possesses mines of pre cious metals. ALGEZUR, or ALJEZUR, a small tn. Portugal, W. coast, prov. Algarve, at the mouth of the small river of same name, 23 m. N.N.E. Cape St. Vincent. It has a church, and an ancient castle, represented in the arms of Portugal. Pop. 1735. ALGHA ALGIERS ALGHA, or ATOHA, one of the Aleutian Islands, nearly in the centre of that chain; lat. 51 U 30 N.; Ion. 174 W. ALGHEKO, or ALOHEKI, a tn. and seaport on the W. side of the isl. of Sardinia, gov. of, and 15 in. S.S.W. from Sassari ; lat. (cathedral) 40 33 30 " N. ; lou. 8 J 1 J 15" E. (ic.) It is well fortified, especially towards the sea, but is commanded by two eminences in the vicinity. The port is insignificant, and capable of admitting very small craft only ; but, at the dis tance of 7 m. is Porto Conte, the best, safest, and most com modious harbour in the island. The town is the seat of a bishop, suffragan to the Archbishop of Sassari, and possesses a handsome cathedral, several convents, and a college. The air is salubrious, and the neighbouring lands fertile. In 1804, the cultivation of indigo was introduced with tolerable success. Alghero has a considerable trade in grain, wine, oil, grapes, skins, butter, cheese, tobacco, and coral. The town is supposed to have been founded by a colony of Bar- celonians. Pop. 7000. ALGIERS [Arabic, Al-Djezair The islands], a seaport and city, N.W. Africa, on the W. side of a bay of the same name, on the Mediterran ean Sea; lat. 30 47 18" N.;lon.34 30"E. (R.) It was once the capital of the regency or pashalic of the same name, long nomin ally dependent on tho Ottoman empire ; but, since 1831, has been the capital of the French colonial pro vinceof Alge ria. It is built on the N. slope of Mount Boujarin, which rises about 500 ft. above the bay ; and tho houses are arranged am phitheatre-wise, termin ating in the esplanade, on which stands the Kasbali, or old citadel. It is wholly enclosed by an embattled wall, 12 ft. thick and 30 ft. high, ALGIERS, THE GRAND MOSQUE. From Excursions DajruerrlenuL- bids fair to have its character wholly changed, and to bo one of the handsomest cities on the Mediterranean. The houses, whether of stone or brick, are annually whitewashed ; and in consequence of the earthquakes, they are seldom built of more than one story above the basement, each tenement being flat roofed, and provided with a tank at the top, to catch the rain water ; besides which, Algiers has numerous fountains, supplying an abundance of water from the aqueducts and reservoirs above the town. Among the public buildings and establishments, are 10 large mosques, a handsome cathedral, several R. catholic churches, a Protestant chapel, and some Jewish synagogues, six colleges, and some convents used as . girls schools, a Government house, exchange, bank, four courts of justice, a bishop s palace, public library, and museum, observatory, several hospitals, and most extensive barracks for cavalry and infantry ; and Algiers is the residence of the governor-general, and all the leading officers in the Algerian colony. There are likewise several handsome hotels, bazaars, and shops ; and, on the whole, the European portion is highly creditable to its new possessors. Indeed, Sir Grenvillu Temple s description is true, as well as striking : Algiers is daily as suming a more European aspect hats are nearly as often seen as turbans, cigars have replaced the long pipes, and the Moorish bazaars give way to the glazed win dows of French shops. Upwards of fifty mer chants have established counting houses ; and numerous mechanics and tradesmen, including, of course, a full proportion of tailors, modistes, and perruquiers, are thickly scattered about. Eleven grand cafes, with billiard tables ; four [now nine] the strength of which and casemated batteries; and it is entered by five gates two of which are seaward, two landward, and one leading to the citadel. The external aspect of the city is exceed ingly imposing, owing not only to its form and position, but also to the dazzling whiteness of its houses, which are visible at a great distance. The streets are mostly narrow, grand hotels ; several astly increased by four castles, | restaurateurs; 100 eating houses; several cabinets litteraires; a circus, cosmorama, &c., have been established ; and omnibuses and cabriolets fly through the town, and run to and from the suburbs. [The Guide en Algerie, 1847, states that there are 170 omnibuses and cabriolets, exclusive of the voitures sous remise.] The Kasbah is a little town itself, containing, with several other houses and gardens, the late dey s palace, which, however, has suffered much from the French soldiery, who, 011 first occupying it, pulled up the pavement, tore down the glazed tile coating of the rooms, and otherwise committed great injury in their eager search after treasure. The marble flooring ; the arched galleries, supported by graceful marble pillars, which surrounded the open courts ; the elegant fountains, which scattered coolness around ; and the latticed shahne-sheens, still, however, remain to repay the fatigue and trouble of the visitor s ascent. The corps de garde, with the gate and the sycamores, banana trees, and vines surrounding it, together with the mixture of French uniforms and Moorish costumes, formed altogether a beautiful little picture ; as also did a wine shop, shaded by a vine-covered pergola, under which were seated groups of soldiers. Civilization, likewise, is rapidly extending ; wide streets, lined with pretty houses and villas, are gradually stretching into the surrounding country ; good roads have been constructed in various directions, and rail ways are now in operation, or in course of construction. The Moslem, or upper part of the town, however, has still its narrow, dark streets, with square-shaped, heavy -looking houses, betraying few signs of internal animation ; while the lower town near the water, abounds with dark alleys, and cul- de-sacs fit receptacles of filth, disease, profligacy, and crime ; tortuous, and extremely dirty, as in all Moorish towns ; but > nor, perhaps, will they ever be removed, except by a conflag A STREET IN ALGIERS. there have been recently constructed, to connect the principal quarters of the town, three long thoroughfares, which are tolerably wide, and comprise the principal bazaars and markets. These improvements are constantly progressive ; ! by 140 in width, extending from the mainland to an islet, on arid Algiers, which has already three well built, open squares; which aie a strong castle with batteries, and a lighthouse, ration even more extensive than that which occurred in 1840. The harbour of Algiers is a work of immense labour, first formed by Barbarossa in 1530, having a mole 580 ft. in length ALGIERS <S7 ALGONQUINS exhibiting a revolving light. The Lay offers no safe anchor age against the severe weather of winter ; for nowhere ca shelter be found from the N. winds ; indeed, at the mouth of the port, and even inside of it, ships have been severely damaged by the heavy surf and rollers, which have there the violence of a tempest. The extensive jetty, or breakwater, however, which is to be 2400 ft. long, and was commenced in 1836, has already produced a sensible alteration for the better; and, when finished, ships may lie in perfect safety inside, or at the end of the mole. There is anchorage, in fii weather, about 1 m. from the shore, in about 20 fathoms ; and also, during E. and N.E. winds, on the N.E. side of the bay- in about 1 1 fathoms. (See Norie and Hobbs s Sailing Direc tions fur the Mediterranean Sea, p. 81 The commerce of Algiers, which was wholly insignificant in the time of the regency, has risen to great importance ; and it has become the entrepot of four-fifths of the trade with France and other European countries, as well as with Blidah, Milianah, and other towns of the province. For the imports and exports of the port, which are included in those of the government, see ALGERIA. The city comprises, according to the recent account of Quetin, 2065 licensed traders (mardiands patentes), about 300 of whom are bankers and merchants, having well-organized establishments, and doing an extensive business both with the interior and foreign countries. There are also about 50 official brokers, who divide among them the functions of money changers, shipbrokers, and sworn inter preters. A discount banking company, and insurance company also, have recently been established ; and, on the whole, the town and port displays an amount of activity that may soon place it almost on a level with the commercial ports of France and Spain. A chamber and tribunal of commerce, formed of of 11 members, hold audiences likewise thrice every week, to settle commercial disputes, and regulate the proceedings of trade. As respects steam navigation, it is strictly regulated by law ; and certain boats are chartered and provided by the Government, for the free conveyance of French emigrants and soldiers to the colony. These vessels leave Toulon and Marseilles three times each month, and the passage is per formed in 48 or 50 hours. Steamers, also, frequently run between Algiers, Bona, Oran, Buugia, and Philippeville. The trade carried on by the natives would be quite insig nificant but for their connection with the French. The Jews, however, are pretty actively concerned in retail trade, and carry on some of the higher branches of handicraft. The native manufactures are inconsiderable, comprising a few silken and woollen stuffs, hai cks, burnouses, fez-caps, saddlery, trinkets, &c. A pretty accurate notion of the condition and character of the native traders, may be gained from the follow ing short account of a visit to the bazaars of Algiers, by Capt. Kennedy : One day was occupied in making the round of the Moorish bazaars and shops, which are generally of the meanest description, both inside and out. A few trifling articles of gold and silver embroidery from Morocco, a dozen or two of ornamented pipesticks, with otto of rose and jasmin, red caps and inferior silk scarfs from Tunis, form the sum- total of the ornamental wares of the native shopkeepers. Some of the more wealthy are, however, beginning to imitate their Christian rivals, and have fitted up their shops in a transition style between French and Algerine, with their most tempting articles exposed in the windows ; arid the shop man, instead of apathetically smoking his pipe, seated cross- legged on the counter, stands behind it, and shuffles slip-shod about, recommending his wares to a stranger s notice, with as much pertinacity as the smartest shopmen of London or Paris. In the little back streets and narrow lanes, forming the upper part of the city, the shops frequented by the lower orders are merely square boxes inserted in the wall, with the side towards the street wanting. Most conflicting accounts are given of the climate and healthiness of Algiers. The mean annual temperature of Algiers, as of the rest of the littorale, averages about 68 Fall., but rises to 98 during the siroccos. In a report, however, by Dr. Boudin, read before the Acade"mie de Medicine, it would appear that, in the French population of Algiers (all adults in the prime of life), the average mortality amounts annually to 1 in 27 5, whereas, in Paris generally, the deaths amount only to 1 in 42, or 24 to every 1000 persons. Algiers, too, is the healthiest of all the cities in the colony. The latest returns (1846) state the population to amount to 94,600 persons ; of whom 45,000 are Europeans, and the rest natives and Jews. Algiers is thought to occupy the site of the ancient Icosium. To its Roman occupants succeeded the Vandals, and to them the Moslem Arab invaders of the 8th century ; the town itself dating from the 10th century. In 1510, King Ferdinand the catholic, the conqueror of the Moors in Spain, sent an expedition to seize the island in front of Algiers, then held by the Moors, and built a fort upon it. The Moors, thus menaced, called to their aid the pirate Barbarossa ; who drove out the Spaniards, but kept both fort and town, of which he then became the lord and tyrant ; offering, at the same time, for his security in this usurpation, to become tributary, with his fellow-corsairs, to the Porte of Constantinople. The locality thus secured in impunity, became an organized seat of piracy, on such a scale as to be an object of terror to all European nations ; which were either obliged to wage open war with the Algerines, or else consent to become their tributaries. As early as 1541, the Emperor Charles V. failed in the first attempt against Algiers. In 1683-4, it was bombarded by the French admiral Duquesne. In 1775, the Spaniards, under O Reilly, were repulsed in an attack upon it. In 1815, the Americans humbled the Algerines ; as did the British, under Lord Exmouth, the year after. For details of this and more ;nt portions of its history, see ALGERIA. ALGOA BAY, S. Africa, 410 m. E. by N. Cape of Good Hope, district Uitenhage. It is of great extent, but it "s only in the W. and N.E. parts of the bay that ships may anchor and find shelter. The points forming the entrance to it are Cape Woody on the N.E., and Cape Recife on the S.W.; the distance between them being 33J m. The centre of the bay is in lat. 33 53 S.; Ion. 25 46 E. It is the only jlace of resort where a distressed ship could find shelter from ;he violent N.W. gales which prevail on the Agulhas Bank. The common anchorage off the landing place is in 6 or 7 fathoms, sandy bottom, at the mouth of the Baakens river, Port Elizabeth (which see). The usual landing place is on a small beach close to the N. of the river just named, the mouth of which is generally closed with a dry sandy bar. Water is abundant. Bullocks and sheep, good and plentiful, and fish, may be caught in great quantities. Oysters are also to be at low water. ALGODONALES, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. Cadiz, 14 m. N.W. Ronda, on a slope of the Ronda mountains, and prettily built among gardens, having a fine church, two endowed schools, several fine fountains, a consistory, and a small prison. The people are engaged chiefly in tillage, but also in grinding corn ; and the manufacture of linen, soap, oil, and esparto wares ; they export oil and fruits ; and import earing apparel and other requisites. Pop. 3340. (Madoz.) ALGONQUINS, a nation of Canadian Indians, who, on ;he first settlement of the Europeans, possessed an extensive ALGUADA 88 ALIA domain along the N. bank of the St. Lawrence, about 300 m. above Trois Rivieres. They were once a powerful tribe, and are of mild aspect and gentle manners. They subsisted entirely by hunting, considering the cultivation of the soil beneath the dignity of man. They were attacked by the Iroquois, and would have been eventually exterminated but for the interposition of the French. The principal tribe of the Algonquin nation at present is the Chippewas, who chiefly reside on the Assiniboin, or Rainy Lake, and Prairie de Portage. There is a R. catholic church in their territory, but the exertions of the priests have hitherto had little effect on their morals. They are in the general practice of polygamy, and much given to the use of intoxicating liquors. Small patches of land here and there are cultivated in an inefficient way by their women, the men being occupied in fishing and hunting. Like most of the other Indian tribes, the Algonquins are rapidly disappearing, their number now not exceeding 600. ALGUADA, or AGOADA POINT, on the coast of Malabar, farming the N. extremity of Goa Bay; lat. 15 29 N.; Ion. 73 50 E. It is a level headland" of moderate height, with an old lighthouse on it, and a small fort ; but the prin cipal fort is situated close to the sea, on the S.E. side of the headland, where is a well of excellent water. The common anchorage is abreast of the fort, in 4 or 4J fathpms at low water. On a bluff headland, between 2 and 3 m. to the S.E. of Alguada, is a large, white monastery, which forms an excellent landmark for vessels making for Goa Bay. AL-HADHR, an anc. city, Asiatic Turkey, prov. or pash. Bagdad, 190 m. N.W. by N. the city of Bagdad, and 40 m. S.W. by S. Mosul; lat. 35 47 N. ; Ion. 42 35 E. Al-Hadhr was the Hatra of the Romans, and seems to have been deserted after their fall. Latterly, even its site was unknown to any excepting the wandering Arabs who frequent the surrounding deserts. In 1836 and 1837, the remains of this city were visited by Mr. Ross, surgeon to the British residency at Bagdad ; and, subsequently, by Mr. Ainsworth, Mr. Rassam, and others. It seems to have formed nearly a perfect circle, upwards of 3 m. in circumference, and is com pletely surrounded by a strong wall, now in ruins, but still exhibiting the remains of 32 square bastions, with portions of the intervening curtains. It had, apparently, four gates; but of these, the E. alone can be distinctly traced. Exactly in the centre of the town are the remains of the principal building, either a temple r.r a palace, which consisted of a series of vaulted chambers or halls, of different sizes, all opening to the E., and placed in regular succession from N. to S. The whole was enclosed by a wall, with bastions like those of the city wall, and forming a square 1 360 yards in circuit ; the sides facing the city gates, and apparently con nected with them by paved roads. To the E., a canal intersects the city from N. to S. ; and the remainder of the space, on all sides of the central edifice, is occupied by the ruins of tombs and other buildings, now chiefly a heap of long mounds and hillocks. Al-Hadhr is entirely built of a coarse gray granular limestone abounding with marine shells, and said to have been procured from the Sinjar hills. The stones are well hewn and adjusted, but present no appearance j of cement; and each is marked with a character, generally a ! Chaldean letter or numeral. ALHAMA, a city, Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 26 m. ! S.W. from Granada; on a promontory of limestone, which i forms an inclined plane from W. to E. The old town is bounded S. and E. by a cleft in the rock, at the bottom of which runs the stream Marchan, or de Alhama; and is inaccessible except from the N. and W., on which side are the ruins of an old wall and castle, entered by two gates called Granada and Malaga. The new town stretches to the W. in continu ation of the old ; and, with it, comprises two squares, and numerous irregular and mostly steep streets, few of which are paved ; a parish church, three conventual churches, town and court houses, a large prison, three schools, a friendly society, an hospital, a theatre, and the ruins of a Roman aqueduct, which supplied the castle with water. The manu facture of soap and earthenware, distilling brandy, manufac turing oil, and weaving, employ the inhabitants ; who also cultivate and export grain, fruits, and vegetables. Sheep, goats, pigs, and a few mules, are reared in the vicinity ; and game abounds. The name Alhama is derived from the ancient mineral baths, about 1 m. from the town. The prin cipal bath is a Moorish edifice, and is exactly as the Moslems left it ; the smaller is circular, used by the poorer classes, and probably a Roman erection. The waters, among other chemical constituents, contain a large proportion of nitrogen gas ; the existence of which was first ascertained by Dr. Dau- beny, in 1843. They are esteemed useful incases of rheuma tism, dyspepsy, and cutaneous affections ; and are resorted to in the season by the inhabitants of the circumjacent towns. The town was taken by the French on February 2, 1810; when, in consequence of the resistance offered, a great many of the inhabitants were put to death. Pop. 6284. (Madoz ; Widdrington s Spain, &c.) ALHAMBRA, a small river, Spain, Aragon; which, taking its rise in the heights of the sierra de Gudar, prov. Teruel, flows in a N.W. direction for about 20 m., when it runs S.W. by S., and unites with the Guadalavia at Teruel, after a course of about 50 m. A small vil. of same name is situated on the right bank of the above, 12 m. N. Teruel. Pop. 584. (Madoz.) ALHAMBRA, the name of a celebrated palace in the city of Granada, Spain, erected early in the 13th century, by the Moors. See GRANADA. ALHAMILLA (SIERRA DE), a chain of bills, Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and about 18 m. N.E. from Almeria ; extending from the sierra de Filabres E. to the sierra Segura, and S. about 20 m. to Cape Gata, with an elevation, at the culminating point, of 1800 ft. above the sea level. Parts of the sierra contain marble, limestone, and granite ; and some small veins of copper and oxide of iron. The medicinal baths of Alhamilla are situated on the S. side of the sierra, near the promontory of Cape Gata, facing the sea, within an edifice in the form of a parallelogram, and of solid construction. The water contains carbonic acid, oxygen, and nitrogen, carbonate and hydrochlorate of magnesia, lime, and soda. The baths are esteemed efficacious iii paralysis, epilepsy, asthma, and St. Vitus dance, and are much visited in the season. (Madoz.) ALHANDRA, a small tn. Portugal, prov. Estremadura ; on the right bank of the Tagus, with a safe anchorage, and a fishery; 18m. N.N.E. Lisbon; lat. 38 57 N. ; Ion. 9 2 AV. It has a manufacture of cloth, with a number of brick and tile works. Pop. 1580. ALHAUR1N DE LA TORRE, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 8 m. W. from Malaga ; in a plain N. of the sierra de Mijas. It comprises two squares, and several clean and mostly paved streets, a townhouse, prison, endowed school, and two chapels. The inhabitants are engaged in tilling the fertile soil of the vicinity, and expressing oil ; but many arc likewise employed in the mines of antimony and lead, and in the quarries of gray and white marble which exist hard by. Pop. 2717. (Madoz.) ALH AURIN EL GRAND, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 20 m. W. from Malaga ; on the N. side of the sierra de Mijas, between the river Faala and the brook Gonzalez. The streets are spacious, well built, and paved. There are four squares, two churches, a townhouse, public store, hospital, prison, two schools, numerous fountains, a cemetery, and some remains of an Arab fortification, and of a Roman aqueduct. The people are chiefly employed in working the marble, free stone, and granite quarries, in the vicinity ; in agriculture and mule driving. Some are also employed in the lead and antimony mines situated in the adjacent hills. In the neigh bourhood, grain, fruits, and vegetables, are grown ; and sheep, goats, pigs, and black cattle reared ; in all of which a little trade is done. Pop. 5514. ALHENDIN, or ALGENDIN, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 6 m. S. from Granada ; on the left bank of the Dilar. It has a church, townhouse, two schools, a prison, a public store, and a cemetery. The inhabitants are employed in tillage and cattle feeding. In the vicinity, grain, veget ables, and a little fruit, are grown ; sheep, goats, and cows, are fed ; and game is plentiful. Pop. 2275. ALI, a small tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 15 m. S.S.W. from Messina. It has two mineral springs. Pop. 1300. ALIA, a tn. Spain, New Castile, prov. Caceres, 18m. S.W. Logrosan, on a gentle slope. It has a parish church, town- ball, hospital, prison, endowed school, and public granary. The inhabitants manufacture hemp and linen fabrics, and are ALIASK.V ALICUDI ALICANTE. F much engaged in agriculture, and rearing sheep, goats, and cattle. The productions of the vicinity are grain, fruits, vegetables, honey, wine, and oil. The last three articles are largely exported. Pop. 3122. ALIASKA, ALASKA, or ALASCHA, a peninsula on the N.W. coast of America, in the Russian territory ; between lat. 54 and 59 N. It stretches in a S.W. direction, and is about 700 m. in length. At the N.E. extremity of this peninsula, m about lat. 60, there is an active volcano of 14,000 ft. in height; and at the S.W. end are several cones of great elevation, which have been seen in eruption, and which are covered, for two-thirds of their height downwards, with perpetual snow. The summit of the loftiest peak is truncated, having fallen in during an eruption in 1786. ALICANTE [anc. Lucentum], a city and seaport, Spain, Valencia, cap. prov. of same name ; at the head of an exten sive bay, having Cape la Huertas at its N.E. extremity, and Cape S. Pola on the S., 12 m. apart. It lies in lat. 38 20 42" N.; Ion. 26 W. (K.), at the base of a rocky eminence 400 ft. high, surmounted by a strong castle which overlooks it, and com mands the bay. It is sur rounded by walls ; en tered by four gates ; is well built ; has clean, well-paved streets, and lofty and substantial stone houses, provided with terraces and veran dahs; it comprises four handsome and spacious squares, with several of smaller extent; a fine promenade, named the Paseo de la Reina, or namented with trees and a central fountain ; and without the gates are two delightful alamedas. The public edifices consist of two parish churches, one collegi ate, of Doric architecture ; a chapel of ease ; large townhouse and guildhall, with prison attached ; three general hospitals ; a military hospital ; lying-in hospital ; orphan asylum, and house of mercy ; a college, having a small library ; a museum and gallery of pictures, by the best Spanish masters Alicante likewise possesses schools of navigation, agriculture, and botany; economic, literary, and artistic societies, and numer ous elementary schools ; a theatre; several extensive store houses ; public baths, and eight fountains ; but the water is not good, being impregnated with the salts of magnesia. Manufactures : comparatively insignificant, consisting chiefly of esparto cordage, and matting ; much reduced, however, of late years, owing to the unmanufactured rushes exported, being sent back in a manufactured state. Government has here a cigar manufactory which employs more than 2200 women ; and a British company has established, in the neigh bourhood, at the foot of Mount Molinett, works for smelting and refining the ores from the mines of Murcia. Though this city is considered the chief commercial port of Valencia, and has many French and English resident merchants, its trade has greatly declined of late, in consequence of the high import duties, which have given rise to an extensive system of smuggling, connived at even by the authorities. The exports are wine, brandy, oil, soap, salt, wool, silk, linen, esparto, raisins, almonds, figs, and barilla, &c., to the amount of 1,958,333. The imports, linen, cotton, salt fish, corn, timber, and other requisites, to the amount of 3,906,870. The harbour of Alicante, in which there is no perceptible tide, is only a roadstead in a deep bay, small vessels alone being able to approach the quay ; the mole has been greatly extended, and a fixed light was placed on the mole head in 1844, visible at 15 m. distance. To the S. of this light, vessels may anchor in six or eight fathoms. Pop. 19,021. (Madoz, Diccio. de Espana.} ALICANTE, a prov. Spain, cap. Alicante, in the S. of Valencia, and extending a small distance into the E. side of Murcia; bounded, N. by prov. Valencia, N. and N.W. by VOL. I. Murcia and Albacete, and S. and S.E. by Murcia and the Mediterranean. It is about 73 m. long, and 68 m. broad, with an area of 291 1 sq. m. The surface of this province is much varied; to the N. it is rugged and sterile, and chiefly of limestone formation ; in the S. it is nearly level, with rich and fertile valleys, and enjoying a mild and salubrious climate ; the winters being without severity, and the summer heats being tempered by refreshing sea breezes. The mountains are, in some parts, clothed with pine, rock roses, and holly ; though generally barren. Along the coast, southward, there are many salt marshes ; the miasma arising from which is extremely injurious to health. There are also mineral springs, containing sulphurous, ferruginous, and calcareous constituents, in various parts of the province, that are much esteemed for their sanatory qualities. The plains and valleys are abundantly fruitful and are well watered, partly by numerous natural streams, and partly by artificial irrigation ; the inhabitants being extremely industrious, and careful agriculturists. Wheat, maize, barley, lentils, rice, oats, rye, and sugar cane; grapes, olives, liemp, flax, esparto, bar illa, oranges, almonds, dates, and various other tropical fruits and veget ables, are extensively cultivated ; bees and silk worms are reared; and carob trees are abund ant. The quantity of wines made is consider able ; the best are the Tent and Alogue, esteem ed throughout Spain ; the inferior kinds are sent to France to be mixed with thin claret and Mcdoc wines for the British markets. Cattle rearing is not much attended to. The mineral wealth of Alicante comprises six mines of lead, 17 of copper, three of iron, and 15 of coals ; and several marble quarries on Mount Rollo. The inhabitants are engaged in the manufacture of silk, linen, woollen and cotton fabrics ; esparto cordage and mats; hats, earthenware, soap, &c. ; and in brandy distilleries, tanneries, oil and corn mills ; and many are also employed as carriers. On the coast are productive fisheries of the tunny, anchovy, and other fish. Alicante exports agricultural produce, wine, oil, esparto, barilla, brandy, soap, salt, silk, and wool ; and imports linen, cotton, stuffs, tobacco, salt fish, and timber. The state of education is far from satisfactory; and, owing, in great measure, to the extensive smuggling carried on, theft, and even murder, is frequent. Pop. 363,219 (Madoz, Dictio. de Espana.} ALICATA, or LICATA, a seaport tn. Sicily, at the mouth of the Salso, prov. of, and 24 m. S.E. from Girgenti ; lat. 37 4 N. ; Ion. 13 56 E. (R.) ; situated on the slope of a rocky hill, and defended by two forts. Its port is shallow, and cannot be entered by large vessels, which generally anchor about 1 m. S.W. of the town, where they load. It has, however, a considerable trade in grain, maccaroni, pistacianuts, almonds, sulphur, and soda. On Mount Serrato, in the vicinity, may be seen the ruins of Gela. Pop. 13,480. ALICE, a lately erected and rising tn. in the extreme E. of Cape Colony, division or district Victoria, on the left bank of a small affluent of the Chumie, 41 m. N.E. Graham s Town; about lat. 32 48 S.; Ion. 26 52 E. It lies in a fertile district, the population of which is rapidly increasing; and has a Free church, capable of accommodating a congre gation of 200, opened the end of 1849. About 6 m. N. from Alice lies the missionary station of f humie; and 4 m. E., that of Lovedale ; and about 1 in. E., the Lovedale Free Church Educational Seminary. ALICUDI, one of the Lipari Islands, off the N. coast of Sicily; lat. 38 32 42" N.; Ion. 14 16 30" E. (R.) It is of a conical form, and rises abruptly from the sea. The snrface is extremely rugged and barren, and presents many marked indi cations of its volcanic origin, the traces of the lava streams ALIKE ALKMAAE which, in former ages, descended from its crater, still retaining their sterile and repulsive appearance, although the subterra nean tires of the mountain have been so long extinguished, that there is no record of any eruption. Every spot capable of producing anything is carefully cultivated; and barilla, flax, capers, pulse, and wheat of a peculiarly tine quality, are produced. The coasts are so rugged, that there are only two landing places on the island, and both are difficult of access in rough weather. The climate is remarkably healthy, hardly any disease being known amongst its inhabitants. Alicudi was called Ericusa and Encodes by the Greeks, from the heath which grows on it. Pop. about 260 to 300. ALIKE [anc. AllijtJia], a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di La- vora, 16 m. N.N.E. Capua, remarkable for its insalubrity. It is the chief town of a diocese, united to that of Cereto-et- Telese, the bishop of which resides at Piedimonte. It is a place of great antiquity, having been a military colony of the Romans. On the fall of the Koman empire, it was burnt by Count Celano, a general of the Emperor Frederick II. It is still surrounded with walls ; and lias a cathedral, three churches, and a mmit-de-pictt. Pop. 1643. ALIGHUK, a district arid tn., N.W. Hindoostan, prov. Meerut, between the Ganges and Jumna. The N. portion of the district is extremely barren, consisting almost wholly of low, dark jungle, with scarcely a single tree; but the S. is fer tile, and in good cultivation. The whole superficies is estim ated at 1,135,580 ac., of which 901,405 ac. are under cultiva tion. The principal towns are Alighur (the capital), Coel, Hatras, Moorsauu, and Anopshcher. Alighur is situated in lat. 27 56 N., and Ion. 77 59 E., about 53 m. N. from the city of Agra, and 770 m. N.W. Calcutta. More correctly, Alighur is a fortress, the town being Coel, distant about 2 in., and connected with Alighur by a beautiful avenue. It was anciently a place of importance, being mentioned as such by Abul Fazel in the Ai/een Akberry, and was more recently one of Dowlet Kow Sindia s principal depots for military stores. The fort is square, with round bastions, a ditch, and glacis, and a single entrance, protected by a strong ravelin. It was taken, in 1803, by the British forces under Lord Lake, when the whole district was added to the British possessions. Since that time the fort has been much improved, and the town made the station of a civil and judicial establishment. POD. of dis trict, 766,161. (Hamilton s East India Gaz. ; Jour. Stut. Soc., 1847.) ALIKE ISLANDS, three small islands in the Strait of Macassar; lat. 3 41 S.; Ion. 116 54 E. AL1MENA, a small tn. Sicily, prov. Palermo, district of, and 23 m. S. from Cefalu. Pop. 3376. ALIMUSJID, a fort, Khyber Pass, Afghanistan, about 8 m. from its E. entrance, and so called from a small ruined mosque in its neighbourhood. The width of die pass here is about 150 yards, the elevation above the sea 2433 ft. The fort is built on a rock about 600 ft. high, nearly isolated, and with almost perpendicular sides. It was the scene of some rather remarkable exploits during the Afghan war. It was taken by the British in July 1839, and, in 1841, was unsuc cessfully assailed by the Afghans. In January following, it was evacuated by the British, with a loss of 32 men killed, and 148 wounded; and, in 1842, it was again garrisoned by General Pollock, and, on the final evacuation of the country, in November of the same year, it was entirely destroyed by General Nott. ALINE LOCH, a small arm of the sea, Argylcshire, Sound of Mull, district of Morven, Scotland, about 3 in. long, and m. broad. The sides being steep and covered with wood, give a singularly picturesque appearance to this beautiful inlet. The entrance is narrow, and at certain periods of the tide, which runs there with great rapidity, somewhat shallow, but it is a well-sheltered harbour, and the ground good. There is a kind of bar at the entrance, having 12 ft. water, and towards the S. only 6 ft. at low water, spring tides. ALINGSAS, or ALINOSOEH, a small tn. Sweden, liin or district of Elfsborg or Wenersborg, prettily situated upon the small rivers Siifvo and Lilian, near their junction with the Lake Mjiirn, about 30 m. S. Wenersborg. Founded in 1619, it was for some time a place of considerable manu factures in wool, cotton, &c. Some little is still done in the manufacture of cloth and stockings, ai.d in dyeing. Alstromer, the father of Swedish manufactures, was a native of Alingsls. Pop. 1221. (Tuneld s Geogmji ifoer Sneriye.) ALIO AMBA, a market tn. Abyssinia, kingdom of Shon, 5271 ft. above the level of the sea, 5 m. E. Ankobar, upon the crest of a steep mountain. It is much frequented by the inhabitants of the adjacent villages, who resort to it on stated days to purchase their weekly supplies of necessaries. On these occasions, it is crowded by traders from all quarters, ottering their various commodities for sale, provisions, horses, cattle, cloths of all descriptions, are exposed, with gay assort ments of beads, metals, coloured thread, and glass ware. Every month, during the fair season, caravans arrive here from Hoossa and Tajoora. ALll EE, or ALLAFEE, a small seaport tu. Hindoostan, state of Travancore ; lat. 9 30 N. ; Ion. 76 24 E. (Ilorsburrjli) ; 30 m. S. by E. Cochin. It carries on a considerable trade in teak timber, betel nut, coir, and pepper. The land has encroached considerably on the sea here during the last 20 years. Pop. about 13,000. ALISE, or SAJNTE-REIKE [anc. Alesia], a vil. France, dep. Cote d Or, 7 m. N.E. Semur, situated at the foot of Mount Auxois, near the site of the ancient Alesia, which was taken and destroyed by Caesar, as described in his Commen taries (vii. 687). Vestiges of wells, aqueducts, broken tiles, coins, and the like, prove the former existence of the city. At the foot of the ancient citadel (now Mount Auxois), stands the modern village of A Use, which has some trade in grain, wool, chaplets, &c. In the neighbourhood are several iron mines, and two cold acidulated mineral springs, at which an hospital, containing 40 beds for patients, was founded in 1778, by three wealthy citizens of Paris. Pop. 776. ALIWAL, or ALLEEWAL, a vil. in the Punjab, on the left bank of the Sutlej, about 20 m. W. by N. Ludheeana. Formerly a place of no note, it has become celebrated by its name having been given to a great battle fought in its vicinity, Jan. 28, 1846, between the Sikhs and a British army, the former commanded by Sirdar liunjeet Sing, and^the latter by Sir Harry Smith. The Sikh force amounted to 24,000 men and a park of artillery of 68 guns, the British to 12,000 men and 32 guns. The battle, which lasted three hours, or from 10 A.M. to 1 P.M., ended in the total defeat of the Sikhs, who lost between 5000 and 6000 men, together with their whole park of artillery. ALJEZUK. See ALGEZUK. ALJUBAKROTA, a tn. Portugal, prov. Estremadura, 15 m. S.W. Leiria, on the summit of a mountain. It has manufactures of stoneware. In the neighbourhood, John I. of Portugal, surnamed the Great, obtained a signal victory over John I., King of Castille, August 14, 1385, when 12,000 Castillians were slain. Camoens, in the fourth canto of the Lusiad, minutely describes this battle, which, with that of Campo de Ourique, established the independence of Portugal. In memory of this victory, John the Great founded the church and monastery of Batalha, at some distance from the field of battle ; and the anniversary of the day is still cele brated by the Portuguese. Pop. 1684. ALJUSTREL, a tn. Portugal, prov. Alemtejo, 54 m. S.W. Evora, and 77 m. S.E. Lisbon. It is neatly built, and in the vicinity there is a mineral spring. Pop. 1304. AL-KA1SSEKIA, a tn., N.W. part of Morocco, not far from Al-Ksar. It is a dull and decaying place, but presents appearances of having been formerly more populous and flour ishing than now. It contains a few mean shops, and its only commerce consists in a little trade in salt, procured from the neighbouring hills. Pop. about 8000, of which 500 are Jews. ALKEKTON, or AWKEUINGTON, a par. England, co. Oxford ; area, 650 ac. Lydiat, the mathematician, born and buried here. Pop. in 1841, 190. ALKHAM, a par. England, co. Kent; area, 3190 ac.; 4 m. W. by N. Dover ; ancient church. Pop. in 1841, 595. ALKMAAK [Latin, Alcmaria], an old and important tn. Holland, prov. N. Holland, cap. of the arrond. and canton of the same name; 20 m. N.N.W. Amsterdam, arid about the same distance N.N.E. Haarlem ; 5 m. from the sea, on the great Amsterdam Canal, by which it communicates with the capital, with Purmerende, the Jlcldcr, and the N. sf a ; lat. 52 J 37 54" N. ; Ion. 4 45 15" E. (u.) Alkmaar is a clean, well and regularly built town, intersected by various graehten, or small canals, the banks of which are planted with trees, in front of AL-KOSII ALLAHABAD the straight lines of houses on either side. It is of an oval shape, and was formerly fortified, and still has seven gates, but its ramparts have been converted to the umvarlike but agree able purpose of elegant public walks. It is the seat of a court of first resort, and of a tribunal of commerce ; and possesses a highly decorated Gothic townhouse, founded 1509; a weigh- house, which is an elegant structure; an arsenal, excise office, mont-de-jritte ; a beautiful fish market, abundantly sup plied with sea fish ; a linen and yarn market, and a neat theatre. Its churches are two Calvinistic, one Lutheran, one Remonstrant, one Mennonite, four It. catholic, and one Jewish synagogue ; the only one of which worthy of special notice is the Calvinistic church of St. Lawrence, a large handsome building of the 1 6th century. Alkmaar has an hospital for old men and women, a Calvinistic and a K. Catholic orphan hospital, an infirmary, house of correction, society for relieving necessitous trades-women, and various other institutions of less note. It is also well supplied with educational and scientific institutions, having, besides common schools, a Latin school, a drawing school, a school of clinical medicine, a natural history and literary society, a society of science and art, &c. Alkmaar possesses a roomy haven, suitable for vessels winter ing in, and carries on a considerable export trade in butter and cheese. It is, indeed, for cheese, the greatest mart in Holland, or even in the world, the quantity sold annually in the town being upwards of 4000 tons, nearly equal to the half of the whole quantity made in the kingdom. This cheese is exported to all parts of Europe, to the W. Indies, and S. America. The manufactures of Alkmaar consist of salt, some of which, in the refined state, is exported, soap, vinegar, earthenware, leather, parchment ; and it has four saw and three corn mills. It has a roomy market place, and weekly markets for grain, in which a very considerable amount of business is done ; for fine seeds, such as mustard and canary seed, and for fine flowers and plants, cultivated extensively in the vicinity, it is the principal market. It has also leather markets twice each year ; an extensive cattle and pig market in autumn, and an annual horse fair. Alkmaar appears to signify al-meer, that is, all lake, and was so named from the number of lakes in former times in its vicinity, from which much of its strength, as a fortified place, was derived, but which are now, however, converted into arable land. It is often honourably mentioned in Dutch history, and notices of it are to be met with as early as A.D. 924. It frequently suffered from the floods to which Holland is subject, and also from the wars which have been waged in the country. Perhaps the most remarkable fact in its history is its successful defence against the Spaniards in 1573, which, as being the first check they received, gave rise to the saying, Victory begins at Alkmaar. Various eminent men were natives of this town, of whom may be named Cornelius Orebbel, the inventor of the thermometer; he died in 1634. In 1595, damask weaving was invented here by Paschicr Lammertyn. Pop. about 9000. (Van der Aa s Nederlanden.} AL-KOSH, or EL-KOSII, a walled fortified market tn. Turkey in Asia, pash. Bagdad, on the Tigris, about 30 m. N Mosul. Its vaulted one-story houses are built on the slope of a hill of the Soti range. It has a large church and library, rich in Hebrew MS. ; and is the seat of the Nestorian patriarch, who, however, resides in Mosul. On a rock above the town, to the N.E., in a very imposing position, is the convent of Eahban Hormutz. The inhabitants are firmly built, supposed to be a Kurdish race, but resembling some what Jews or Arabs, and are very independent. Al-Kosh is supposed to be the birthplace of the prophet Nahum, and his grave is likewise pointed out. Pop. about 3000. AL-KSAR, a tn. Morocco, about 60 m. S. Tangier, and 21 m. S.E. El-Araish; lat. 34 58 N.; Ion. 5 55 W.; on the N. bank of the river L Khos, or El-Kbs, a rapid yellow stream. It is surrounded by orchards, and gardens of orange, pomegranate, and palm ; and is encircled by an old ruinous brick wall, of about 1 m. in length, having battlements, loopholes, and small square towers, 50 paces apart. The streets are narrow, and at intervals arched across. The houses have ridged roofs of tile. It contains a great number of spacious mosques. Al-Ksar was founded about the end of the 12th century, and is connected in history with the wars of Granada. ALLAGNA DI SESIA, a small tn. Sardinian States, prov. Valsesia, 15 m. W.N.W. Varallo, and 56m. N.N.E. Turin. It has productive copper mines. Pop. 2000. ALLAHABAD, one of the N.W. provinces, and also a district, Hindoostan, gov. Agra. The PROV. lies between Agra on the W. and Benares on the E., and is divided into five districts, the names of which, with their area, population, &c., will be seen from the following table: No. of Area Land No of per- Rr.vnuBin Total Pop. snips. geo. in. Cawnpoor 1 uttelipoor 2,279 1,614 1756 1193 1,480,101 1,010,380 202.285 142,992 550,505 380,080 313-5 318-6 Humeerpoor ) ;uid Calpec... ) 1,083 1701 1,439,282 147,121 316,558 186-1 Banda...;. .. 1,252 2176 1,843,451 164.734 480428 220-8 Allahabad 4,004 2113 1,790,243 212,515 710,276 340-4 Total 10,232 8939 7,571,457 809,047 2,416,853 2737 According to another column of the same table from which the above has been extracted, and which was read by Colonel Sykes before the Statistical Society in 1847, it would appear that the land tax on the total cultivation is about 4s. Qd. per acre. The N. part of the province is low, and chiefly com posed of a flat sandy loam. The S. part is an elevated table land, diversified with hills of considerable height. The climate of the flat region is sultry, and subject to hot winds. The elevated portion is more temperate and healthy. The province is watered by the Ganges, Jumna, Goomty, Caramnassa, and their affluents, and other less considerable streams. It is reckoned one of the richest and most productive provinces of Hindoostan. It exports diamonds, sugar, cotton, indigo, cotton cloths, opium, and saltpetre; and imports salt, and various other articles. The diamonds, now become scarce, and remarkable for their smoothness and purity, are found in the mines of Pannah, in the hilly region. In the time of the Emperor Akbar, the mines were wrought to the extent of 100,000 sterling, of annual value. In 1775, the Bengal Government acquired a part of this province, by treaty, from a Nabob of Oude; and in 1801, the city of Allahabad and the adjacent districts were ceded to the same power. In 1803, the remainder of the province was exchanged with the British by the Peshwa of the Mahrattas, for an equivalent tract in Gujerat and the Carnatic. -The DISTRICT, the area and pop. of which will be seen from the foregoing table, is chiefly com posed of the environs of the city of Allahabad. It is intersected by the Ganges and Jumna, is remarkably fertile, much of its soil being composed of a rich sandy loam, and yields good crops of wheat, barley, pease, and oil seeds. Irrigation has to be resorted to during the dry season. A few small sheep, with coarse black wool, or rather hair, are reared ; and in the towns, cotton cloth of various kinds is manufactured to a limited extent. (Hamilton s East India Gaz. ; Jour. Stat. Soc., 1847.) ALLAHABAD, an ancient city, Hindoostan, cap. of the above prov., situated near the junction of the Ganges and Jumna ; lat. 25 25 26" N. ; Ion. 81 51 1"E. (L.) ; 450 m. N. by W. Calcutta, and 70 m. W. Benares. In 1765 it was taken by the British under Sir li. Fletcher; was subsequently restored to the Nabob of Oude ; and it again reverted to the East India Company in 1803. The town was originally built of brick, but now consists principally of mud houses raised on the foundations of the old buildings. Its antiquity and former extent are attested by the fact, that for several miles around the fort, the soil consists of mortar, broken pottery, and brick dust. The only remarkable buildings are the fort; the Jumma Musjid, or principal mosque; the serai of the Sultan Khusro ; and the imperial tombs, or mausoleums. The fort, or Chalees Satoon, so named from a dome and cupolas supported by forty pillars, is a triangular, lofty, and extensive structure, situated on the point of laud formed by the junction of the rivers, and washed by the waters of the Jumna. It completely commands the navigation, and, on account of its favourable site, has been selected as the chief military depot for the upper provinces. The Government house and barracks within the fort are spacious and handsome ; and connected with the fort there are military cantonments, amongst the most beautiful and picturesque in India, and a gunpowder manufactory. The Jumma Musjeed, a stately, but not an ornamental building, on the banks of the Jumna, ALLAII-SHEHR ALLEGHANY is 5n good repair. The serai, or hotel, of Khusro, though much dilapidated, is still a iioble quadrangle, with four Gothic gateways and an embattled wall. The garden adjoin ing is now remarkable only for three mausoleums which it contains, and which were erected for several of the imperial family. These are large terraced structures, each having vaulted apartments beneath ; in the central one of which is a small tomb, or stone coffin, richly carved. Above, there is a circular apartment, the roof of which is formed by a dome, beautifully sculptured without, and painted within. Apart from the fort and cantonments stand the houses of the civil functionaries. Although from its mean appearance the town is named Fakeerabad, or Beggar abode, yet its site at the junction of the Ganges, the Jumna, and the imagined subter ranean Seres-wati, constitutes it one of the five brahminical prayagas, suuguins, or sacred confluences. Bathing in the united stream at the point of junction, which is considered equal to bathing separately in the three, and having the hair previously shaved, so that each hair may fall into the water, acquire for the devotee, according to the sacred writings, a million of years residence in heaven for every hair. For permission to bathe, a tax of 6s. is exacted by the Govern ment. Allahabad is the seat of a superior court of justice, and has a school, established by some English gentlemen in 1825, in which native pupils are taught Persic, Hindoostanee, and several common branches of education. Pop. in 1832, 64,785 ; of which 20,669 were Mussulmans, and 44,116 Hindoos. (Heber s Journal; Hamilton s Eaxt India Gaz. / Historical Account of British India ; Martin s East Indies.) ALLAH-SHEHR. See ALA-SHEHR. ALLAN (BRIDGE OF), a flourishing village and watering place hi Scotland, co. Stirling, on the high road from Stirling to Perth, 3 m. N. the former, and about 31 m. N.W. Edin burgh, on the banks of the river Allan, which are here remarkable for their sylvan beauty. The village contains a Free church, and a United Presbyterian church, with an excellent school belonging to the former. There are here a cornmill, a sawmill, a paper mill, and a bleachfield. But the village is indebted for its prosperity chiefly to the Airthrie mineral wells in the vicinity, which are much frequented during the summer months. There are two excellent and well-conducted inns for the accommodation of visitors ; and a place of recreation, called M Farlane s Institution, where a collection of statuary, engravings, paintings, &c., is at all times open to inspection, free of charge. Close by the village is a station of the Scottish Central Railway. Some years since, the skeleton of a whale, 73 ft. long, was found near the village, embedded in clay, 20 ft. higher than the surface of the highest tide of the river Forth at the present day. From the situation of the Roman station and causeways at a small dis tance from the spot, it is concluded that the whale must have been stranded there at a period prior to the Christian era. Pop. in 1841, 561. ALLANCHE [anc. Alantia], a small tn. France, dep. Cantal (Auvergne), 10 in. N.N.E. Murat. It is clean, well built, and has a public fountain, which is very copious. The parish church, an old structure, well decorated, and the old castle of Cheyladet, are the only important buildings. It has manufactures of lace, and rears a good many cattle and mules. Its trade is in grain, wine, leather, and cattle. Pop. 1215. ALLAPUTTY, a small isl. off Jaffna, N extremity of Ceylon ; Ion. 80 2 E. ; it has a loose and sandy soil, and abounds in palmyra trees. Fish is plentiful on the coast, and, when dried, form an article of export. The inhabitants are Malabars, and profess the Siva religion. Pop. about 1800. (Ceylon Gazetteer.) ALLARIZ, a tn. Spain, Galicia, prov. of, and 11 m. S. by E. from Orense, pleasantly situated on the N. slope of the sierra de Penagache, and the left bank of the Arnoya, a tribu tary of the Minho; crossed here by two bridges. It is a cheerful-looking town, surrounded by walls overlooked by a castle, and well built, having two squares, three parish churches, a college, two primary schools, a townhall, hospital, consistory, cemetery, and prison. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in agriculture and cattle rearing. Pop., including two rural suburbs, 2756. ALLASSAC, a small tn. France, dep. Correze, on the left bank of the Vezere, 15 m. W. Tulle. In the neighbour hood arc numerous vineyards; and good red vin onlinaiiv is made, and some trade in cattle carried on. Pop 1551. ALLASS STRAIT, a channel between the Islands of Lombock and Sumbawa, in the Malay Archipelago. The pas sage is safe, and much frequented. The Sunibawau side of the strait consists of high rugged land ; the opposite side is composed of steep cliffs facing the sea. The former is in about lat. 9 2 S.; Ion. 116 42 E. The whole length of the strait is about 50 m. ; and its breadth, at the narrowest part, 9 m. ALLAUCH [anc. Allaudium],& tn. France, dep. Bouches- du-Rhone (Provence), about 7 m. E.N.E. Marseilles. A series of acclivities clad with pines, gradually ascend to the hill on which the ancient town was built, and where a double ram part, flanked with towers, one of them still in good preserva tion, points out its position. Overtopping these ruins the church is seen to rise ; while below, on a rock, with a con siderable slope, stands the modern town, in the form of an amphitheatre. In the background are the peaks of a range of ferruginous hills, and higher still the chain of Gardelabau. In the neighbourhood a luscious wine is made, and there are lime kilns and gypsum quarries. Pop. 1666. ALLAYAR-KA-TANDA, a tn. Sinde, 20 m. E. Hy derabad; lat. 25 21 N.; Ion. 68 40 E. The manufac ture of cotton and dyeing is carried on here to some extent. Pop. 5000. ALLCANNINGS, a par. England, co.Wilts ; area, 7630 ac.; 4 m. E. by N. Devizes. Pop. in 1841, 1148. ALLE, a river, E. Prussia, having its sources in some small lakes on the S. borders of Polish Prussia, in lat. 53 40 N., from which point it flows in a N. and N.N.E. direction, till it falls into the Pregel, near Wehlau, 27 m. above Kb nigsberg. Its whole length, exclusive of minute sinuosi ties, may be about 100 m., but as its course is very tortuous for about 12 m. before it falls into the Pregel, its entire development may reach 110 or 115 m. ALLEE BLANCHE, a valley, Sardinia, in Piedmont, which owes its name to the deep snow with which it is always covered, more or less, even in the greatest summer heats. It extends in a S.E. direction, nearly parallel to Chamouni, along the range of which Mount Blanc forms the culminating point, and is bounded in part by that mountain, whose S. base rises abruptly from its bosom to a vertical height, which, as the valley itself is only 4000 ft. above the sea, cannot be less than 11,700 ft. The lake formed in the valley by the magnificent glacier of the Alice Blanche is nearly filled up by alluvial matter, but its former bed is indi cated by an extensive flat, across which an important feeder of the Doire tumbles in a foaming rapid. ALLEGHANY, the name of various counties, towns, and townships, in the U. States, America. ALLEGHANY, a river, U. States, America, rising in Pennsylvania, near Condersport, about lat. 41 40 N. ; Ion. 78 W. It winds N. through part of New York, and again S.W. through Pennsylvania to Pittsburg, where it unites with the Monongahela in forming the Ohio, 1138 ft. above the sea level, after a course of about 300 m. The Alleghany is navigable as far as Hamilton in New York, 260 m. from Pittsburg. Its chief tributaries are the Kiskiniinetas, French Creek, and Toby s Creek. ALLEGHANY, or APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS, an exten sive mountain system in the U. States, America. Com mencing in the N. parts of Alabama and Georgia, it traverses the states of Tennessee, N. Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania, to New York, at a distance from the Atlantic to which it runs nearly parallel of 50 m. to 130 in. It extends through 11 degrees of lat., and is from 50 to 200 m. broad. The various ridges of which the system is composed are known by the names of the Blue Ridge, North Mountain, Jackson s Mountain, Laurel Mountain, Cumberland Mountain, &c. Between these ridges, which are for the most part wooded to the summit, are some fertile valleys, although the country they enclose is generally rocky and barren. Their mean eleva tion is about 2500 ft. ; but in Yancey county, N. Carolina, some of the peaks attain an elevation of 6000 ft. The Alle ghany Mountains divide the waters that flow into the Atlantic from those that fall into the Mississippi. They are composed mainly of granite, gneiss, mica clay-slate, and primary lime stone, and are generally clothed with a luxuriant vegetation ; ALLEGRANZA ALLESTREE their W. slope is considered one of the finest countries in the U. States. The chaiacter of the scenery is at once picturesque and peaceful. The vegetation is different on the two sides ; the locust tree, Canadian poplar, Hibiscus, and Hydrangea, are most common on the W. side ; the American chestnut and Kalmias are so numerous on the Atlantic side, as to give a distinctive character to the flora. ALLEGRANZA, one of the smallest of the Canary Islands, and the most northerly of the group; lat. 29 31 N. ; Ion. 13 35 \V. ; 20 m. N. the Island of Lancerota. It has the appearance of being an extinct volcano, the edge of the crater, which is two-thirds of a mile in diameter, being well denned. The island rises to a height of 939 ft. above the sea, and is so precipitous as to present only one landing place, which is on the S. side, where a cavern runs for about 500 paces, slanting from the sea, and terminates in a little sandy bay, open above. On the W. side, the cliffs rise per pendicularly to a height of 700 ft. The inhabitants a mere handful are chiefly employed in collecting archil, which, like that gathered in the other Canary Islands, is reckoned of the best quality. ALLEGRE, a tn. France, dep. Haute Loire (Auvergne), 13 m. N.W. Le-Puy; lat. 45 12 N.; Ion. 3 50 E. It stands on the S. slope of a lofty hill, which is overtopped by the far loftier dome of Bar a remarkable volcanic mountain, of a conical shape, standing isolated, and terminating in a magnificent crater 500 yards in diameter, and 40 yards in depth. The inhabitants traffic in grain, wool, and cattle. Pop. 2048. ALLEMOND-EN-OYSANS, a vil. France, dep. Isere (Dauphine), in a beautiful valley on the right bank of the Komanche, about 18 m. S.E. Grenoble. In its neighbourhood are found cobalt, nickel, copper, and zinc. Pop. 1546. ALLEN, the name of two small rivers, and of several streams, in England: 1, A river in Cornwall, which, joining the Kenwyn at the quay of Truro, forms the creek of that name. 2. A small stream in Dorsetshire, which unites with the Stour 10 m. below Blandford. 3, Two streams, respec tively named E. and W. Allen, which have their source in the S. parts of Northumberland, at a place called Allen Heads, 1400 ft. above the level of the sea; they unite near Whitfield, and subsequently fall into the Tyne at Beltingham, 4 m. E. Haltwhistle. ALLEN, the name of several counties and townships, U. States, America. ALLEN (Boa OF), the general name applied to a numer ous series of bogs in Ireland, and not, as very generally sup posed, to one continuous morass of great extent. They are dispersed, often widely apart, with extensive tracts of dry cultivated soil between, over a broad belt of land stretching across the centre of the country, from Wicklow Head to Galway on the S., and from Howth Head to Sligo on the N., having thus a breadth of about 27 m. at the E. end, and of 80 at the W. extremity. The bogs, however, all lie on the E side of the Shannon, and are, for the most part, of that kind called red bog. ALLEN (Sx.), a par. England, co. Cornwall; area, 3610 ac.; 4J m. N. by W. Truro. Pop. in 1841, 652. ALLENDALE, a tn. and par. England, co. Northumber land. The town is 33 m. E. Carlisle, on an acclivity, right bank of the E. Allen. It is irregularly built, but contains some good houses, and a spacious market place. The inhabitants are employed principally in the lead mines in the vicinity; market day, Friday. Pop. 1217. The PARISH comprises 45,810 ac., and contains several chapels of ease, and places of worship for Wesleyans and the Society of Friends, to nearly all of which schools are attached. The parish is hilly and sterile, but rich in minerals. Pop. in 1841, 5729. ALLENDORF. 1, A tn. Hesse-Cassel, in a pretty valley on the right bank of the Werra, where it receives the Alte- hainsbach, 24 m. E. Cassel; lat. 51 16 N. ; Ion. 10 5 E. It is encircled with a double wall, with three gates, and has an hospital and a handsome church. The neighbourhood is covered with orchards and woods, and there is good fishing in the \7erra. Some wine and silk are produced, and a good deal of tobacco is raised and manufactured. On a strong salt spring in the vicinity are saltworks. Pop. 3200. 2, A tn. Hesse- Darmstadt, 9 m. N.E. Giessen, has meal and oil mills, linen cloth and carpet weaving. Pop. 1 150. 3, ALLENDOKF is likewise the name of four vils. in Hesse-Cassel, of three vils. iii Hesse-Darmstadt, and of 10 others in Prussian Hanover, Nassau, &c. ALLEN LOUGH, a lake, Ireland, co. Leitrim, about 7 m. long, and varying from 1 to 4 m. in breadth. The river Shannon flows through it. A few small islands are scat tered over its surface, upon one of which the ruins of a small monastic structure are still visible. ALLEN S ISLE, a small isl. at the head of the Gulf of Carpentaria, in N. Australia; lat. 17 5 S. Ion. 139 25 E. It is spoken of in Stokes Discoveries in Australia (vol. li. p. 277), as being more fertile than any other part visited in the gulf, being clothed with rich grass, and with small trees and shrubs of a very green appearance. ALLENSMOOR, a par. England, co. Hereford; area, 1930 ac.; 4 m. S.W. Hereford. Pop. in 1841, 668. ALLENSTEIN, a tn. E. Prussia, gov. of, and 65 m. S. from Kb nigsberg, at the junction of the Neu Pisch with the Alle ; lat. 53 46 N.; Ion. 20 27 E. It is the cap. of a circle of same name; and has a castle, three churches, two chapels, and an almshouse; with manufactures of leather, linen, yarn, earthenware, and potash; and 12 markets, 6 of them for cattle. Pop. 3350. The CIRCLE has an area of 3800 geo. sq. m. It is well wooded and watered, being not only traversed by the Alle and Passarge, but possessed of numerous lakes. The soil is not well adapted for agriculture, but grazes large numbers of sheep and cattle. A good deal of attention is paid to the rearing of bees. Pop. 36,000, of whom only 2000 are Protestants. ALLENTON, or ALLWINTON, a par. and township, England, co. Northumberland; area, 31,940 ac. ; on the river Coquet. Pop. in 1841, 812. ALLER, a vil. and par England, co. Somerset. The vil. lies at the foot of a hill, 6 m. W. by N. Sornerton, and 2 m. N.N.W. Langport. It consists but of one irregular, in differently-kept street, though the supply of water is ample. It contains a church, an Independent chapel, and a day school. The par. comprises 4290 ac. Guthrum, the Danish chief, was baptized at this place, under the sponsorship of Alfred the Great, after the battle of Ettandune, in which the Danes were defeated by the latter. Aller Moor was also the scene of a battle between the Royalists and the Parliamentarians in 1644. Pop of vil. and par. 559. ALLER, a river, Germany, rising about 20 m. W. Magde burg, in Prussian Saxony. Flowing N.W. it enters Hanover, and, after receiving several important tributaries, among which may be named the Oker, the Fuse, and the Lachte, it becomes navigable at Celle, where, still proceeding W., it receives the Leme, not far to the S. of Hudemiihlen, and falls into the Weser near Verden. Total course, exclusive of windings, about 120 m. ALLERDALE, the name of two of the five wards into which the co. of Cumberland, England, is divided, and called, respectively, Allerdale-above Derwent, and Allerdale-below- Derwent. Together, they form the W. division of the co., and, as such, return two members to the House of Commons. Allerdale-above-Derwent comprises 275,970 ac., with a pop. in 1841, of 41,621. Allerdale-below-Derwent, 170,400 ac.; pop. 29,896. ALLERSTON, a par. England, co. York, N. Riding; area, 9110 ac.; 4 m. E. by S. Pickering. P. in 1841, 414. ALLEKTHOKPE, a par. England, co. York, E. Biding; area, 2050 ac.; 1 m. N.E. Wakefield. Pop. 199. ALLEETON CHAPEL, a par. England, co. Somerset ; area, 1490 ac.; 4J in. S.W. by S. Axbridge. Pop. in 1841, 331. ALLERTON MAULEVERER, a par. England, co. York, W. Riding; 5 m. E. by N. Kuaresborough ; 2300 ac. Pop. in 1841, 277. ALLESLEY, a par. England, co. Warwick; area, 3950 ac.; 2 m. N. Coventry. Pop. in 1841, 9G3. ALLESTAR, or ALLISTAK, a populous tn. peninsula of Malacca, kingdom of Queda or Keddah, four hours pull up the Queda river. It was at one time the residence of the king. The inhabitants consist of Chuleas, Malays, and Chinese, the latter having a temple. In 1823 it contained 2000 houses. ALLESTREE, or ALLESTHEY, a par. England, co. of, and 2 m. N.W. from Derby; area, 990 ac. Pop. in 1841, 507. ALLEVARD ALORIC ALLEVARD, a tn. France, dep. Tsere (Dauphins ), 23 m. N.E. Grenoble, upon the Ozeins; in a fertile and well- wooded valley, which, though little more than 3 m. from that of the Isere, is more than 900 ft. above it. In the vicinity are numerous iron mines, which supply several blast furnaces, yielding about 4460 tons of iron yearly. A good deal of it is melted in foundries on the spot; part is used at marshes, entertained some years ago by the U. States Govern ment. The lands of this swamp are said to be naturally very fertile. ALLTGNY, a market tn. France, dep. Nievre, arrond. of, and 12 m. N.E. from Chateau-Chinon. It has five pretty large cattle fairs. Pop. 234. ALL-INGE, a vil. with a small haven, Denmark, on the the cannon foundry of St. Gervais, and part is converted into | N.E. coast of the isl. of Bornholm. Its inhabitants are en steel, for which it is said to be well adapted. Sulphur is found in the neighbouring mountain of La Tmlle; and in a vale below are two mineral springs, which, though lying near each other, are of a totally different nature. At a short distance from the town are the ruins of the Chateau Bayard, the birthplace of the celebrated chevalier of that name. Top. 1666. ALLEXTON, or AM/PCTON, a par. England, co. of, and 14 m. S.E. from Leicester; area, 1010 ac. Pop. in 1841, 81. ALLHALLOWS. 1, A par. England, co. Cumberland; area, 1860 ac.; 2 m. S. Maryport and Carlisle Railway; inter sected by the river Ellen; freestone quarry, lime kilns, and collieries. Pop. in 1841. 235. 2, A par. Fngland, co. Kent; area, 2460 ac.; 7 m. E. Rochester. Pop. in 1841, 268. ALLI, a small river, Naples, Calabria Ultra; it rises in Mount Calistro; lat. 39 10 N.; Ion. 16 31 E.; flows S.S.E., passes Simmari, and, after a course of about 18 m., falls into the Gulf of Squillace, 5 m. AV. Petrizzi. ALLIER [anc. Elarer], a river, France, which gives its name to a department. It is the most important tributary of gaged chiefly in agriculture and fishing. Pop. about 600. ALLINGTON, several pars. Eng.: 1, Dorset; 960 ac. Pop. 1545. 2 (East), Devon ; 3646 ac. Pop. 640. 3 ( West}, Devon; 4110ac. Pop. 1008. 4, Kent ; 612 ac. Pop.49. 5 (East and West], Lincoln ; 2070 ac. Pop. 396. 6, Wilts ; 4 JO ac. Pop. 94. ALLTSTAR. See ALLESTAR. ALLOA, a river-port tn., burgh of barony, and par. in Scotland, co. Clackmannan. The tn. lies on the N. bank of the Forth, 6 m. E. Stirling, and 25 m. N.W. Edinburgh ; lat. 56 7 N. ; Ion. 3 46 W. ; and is irregularly built, particularly the more ancient parts ; but in the principal streets, most of the old houses have been replaced by handsome new buildings. They contain also many elegant shops. The streets are well paved, well lighted with gas, and kept in excellent order. The most spacious is John Street, leading to the harbour ; it is 80 ft. wide, and terminates in a beautiful gravel walk, having a row of fine lime trees on each side. The church is a handsome structure, in the Gothic style, with a spire 207 ft. high. There are, besides three meeting houses of Presby- the Loire. It rises in the forest of Mercceur, at. the foot of j terian dissenters, an Independent meeting house, and an Epi- Mount Lozere, belonging to the chain of the Cevennes. After a I scopal chapel ; the two last are neat structures, the latter being course in the main N.N.W., watering the departments Lozere, | in the Gothic style. There are several branch banks in the town, an assembly room, large and commodious ; a select sub scription library ; a number of schools, including the Alloa academy- a celebrated seminary ; a grammar school, two public reading rooms, a mechanics institute, and several friendly, ]>ar! Ir i- Upper Loire, Puy-de-Dome, and Allier, and separating the departments Cher and Nievre, it joins the Loire, on its left bank, about 4 m. W. Nevers. Its whole length is about 200 m., for a third of which it is navigabl ALLIER, a central dep. France, so called from the river I benefit, and religious societies. The manufactures comprise of that name, which traverses it from N. to S. ; comprehend ing the greater portion of the old province of Bourbonnais; bounded, N. by the departments of Nievre and Cher, E. by those of Saone-et-Loireand Loire, S. by that of Puy-de-Dome, and W. by those of Creuse and Cher. Besides the Allier, the department is watered also by the Cher, and other streams, The surface is undulating, and the soil in general fertile, pro ducing more grain than is consumed. Agriculture, however, is in a very backward state, the rural part of the population being unwilling to abandon their old customs for modern im provements. Small proprietors here, as well as throughout France, have much increased since the first Revolution. In 1844, the number in this department rated to the Contribution Fonciere, amounted to 66,829; the properties being divided into 2,759,992 parcels. The cultivation of the vine is not much attended to, though some esteemed white wine is made at Saint-Pourcain and one or two other places, the greater part of which is exported. Large numbers of cattle, sheep, and goats are reared ; also, horses of a strong breed. The woods are principally of oak, furnishing a good supply of timber for shipbuilding. The ponds and lakes are numerous, covering nearly 14,826 ac.; and, as well as the different streams and rivers, abound in fish, which, with the leeches found in the former, form a considerable article of trade with Paris. Various mines of coal, iron, and antimony, marble and granite quarries, and porcelain clay pits, are worked in the department. There are mineral springs at Vichi, Bourbon- 1 Archambault, and Neris. Cutlery is made at Moulins, the capital ; porcelain and earthenware at Lurcy-Levy, and soda and glass at Commcntry and Souvigny. The department is crossed by one of the great roads from Paris to Lyons, and by two canals; and is within the jurisdiction of the Criminal Court of Riom. Pop. in 1846. 329,540. (St. Fargeau ; Die de la France.; Guibert, Die. Geo. et Stat.) ALLIGATOR RIVERS (SOUTH and EAST), two rivers of N. Australia, both of which flow into Van Diemen s Gulf, at a distance from each other of about 20 m. The scenery on the banks of the latter is said by Dr. Leichhardt to be extremely picturesque. ALLIGATOR SWAMP, a marsh in N. Carolina, U. States, between Albemarle and Pamlico Sounds, or between lat. 35 20 and 35 52 It comprises 75,000 ac., and was included in an extensive project for draining .such several breweries and distilleries, the produce of the former being much esteemed ; glass works, bricks, tiles, and other earthenware. There are also woollen manufactories, an iron bundry, and some pretty extensive establishments for ship building and rope making. Alloa has a very considerable foreign and coasting trade ; the imports, through the former, consist chiefly of timber, battens, deals, hemp, oak bark, and bones for agricultural purposes ; through the latter, of corn, wool, fuller s earth, and groceries, wines, teas, &c. The ex ports consist of coals, pig iron, woollen manufactures, glass, ale, whisky, leather, fire bricks, tiles, and common brick*. The number of vessels belonging to the port, in 1847, was 111 tonn. 15,913. The number that entered inward, in the same year, was 213 tonn. 10,984; outwards, 646 tonn. 35,267. The harbour and quays are commodious ; the lepth of water 16 ft. at neap tides, and from 22 to 24 ft. at spring tides. The latter are here attended by a singular phenomenon, called double or leaky tides, chiefly observed at high and low water, which consists in a second ebbing and flowing, to an extent of from 12 to 15 inches, after the tide has apparently reached its utmost height and lowest ebb. There is a dry dock a little above the harbour. Close by the town there is a remarkable antique tower, called Alloa Tower, built towards the end of the 13th century; it is square, 89 ft. high, with walls 11 ft. thick. It was the place of residence of several successive Scottish princes, while receiving their education ; and here a portion of Queen Mary s infancy was passed. David Ramsay, the celebrated painter, was born in Alloa, 1744. Pop. in 1841, 5434. Area of par. 7| sq. m.; pop. exclusive of the town, 1071. ALLONBY, a small fishing tn. and chapelry, England, co. Cumberland, on the Solway Frith, 20 m. S.W. Carlisle. There is a Quakers meeting house in the town, a free school, and two other schools. The inhabitants are chiefly occupied in the herring fishery, when herrings are on the coast ; but their visitations are uncertain, sometimes years intervening between the periods of their appearance. Cod are also taken in considerable quantities during the winter. Allonby is much frequented in the summer season for sea bathing. Pop. of chapelry in 1841, 811. ALORIC, a large tn., W. Africa, Guinea, territory of Yarriba, E. of the Kong Mountains, 40 m. S.S.W. Katnnga, and 180 m. N.E. Lagos; lat. 8 15 N.; Ion. 5 40 K. ALLOWAi 95 ALMAGRO ALLOW AT, a par. Scotland, co. Ayr, now united to Ayr parish. It contains the house in which Robert Burns, the Scottish poet, was born ; and its old roofless church, famed under the name of. Kirk Alloway, the imaginary scene of the incidents described in his poem of Tain o Shanter. In the neighbourhood of Kirk Alloway a monument has been erected to the memory of Burns, somewhat similar to that oil the Calton Hill, Edinburgh; it contains several interesting relics of the poet, and the statues of Tarn o Shanter and Souter Johnny, by Thorn. ALL SAINTS. 1, a par. England, Suffolk; 1150 ac. Pop- 224. 2, a par. Ireland, Donegal ; 9634 ac. Pop. 4280. ALL SAINTS BAY [.Portuguese, Balda de tudos os Santos], a bay on the coast of Brazil, prov. Bahia; lat. 1 3 1 S. ; Ion. 38 50 W. It has two entrances, the principal of which, 8 or 9 in. wide, is formed, on the E., by the pro montory of fct. Antonio, on which is situated the town of Sao Salvador or Bahia ; and on the W. by the island of Itaparica ; The least breadth of the channel here is little less than 4 in. ; but the half of this space only, that nearest to the E. side, is navigable by large ships. The other entrance, called Larva Falsa [false bar], is less than 2 m. in width. The bay, taken in its whole extent, forms a very deep gulf, which bears the name of Reconcavo, and is from 90 to 100 in. in circuit. The largest Meet may ride in it in safety, having excellent holding ground, and security from, the winds. Several considerable rivers fall into the bay. ALLSTADT, or ALLSTEDT, an old tn Germany, duchy of Saxe-Weimar, on the Rhone, 42 m. W.N.W. Leipzig ; lat. 51 25 N. ; Ion. 11 22 E. It has an ancient church, and a castle occupying a height which commands the town. It has manufactures of cloth and potash, several mills, numerous orchards, and four yearly markets, chiefly for horse and cattle. Pop. 2086. The BAILIWICK area, 40 geo. sq. m. is gen erally fertile, with exception of a moorish district, called the desert. Agriculture is the principal employment. Pop. 7150. ALMACHAR, a tn. Spain, in Granada, prov. of, and 18m N. by W. from Malaga, on the side of a steep hill between two others, called Carnache and Portichuela. The town is composed of several miserable, crooked, and very steep streets ; and has a parish church, a school, three foun tains, and a cemetery. Manufactures: Linen and woollen fabrics. In the environs, grapes, olives, figs, and pulse, are cultivated. Pop. 2081. ALMADA, a tn. Portugal, prov. Estremadura, on the left bank of the estuary of the Tagus, opposite Lisbon. It is built upon a height, in a well-cultivated country, and has long been celebrated for its figs. It has a strong castle on a rock, an hospital for British seamen, a Latin school, several depots of wine, and a mineral spring. Near it is the fort of San Sebastian, which defends the entrance to the Tagus. Pop. 4538. ALMADAGH [anc. Amanus], a range of mountains in Asiatic Turkey, a branch of the Mount Taurus system, form ing the N. boundary of Syria. The direction of the range, generally, is S.S.W., till its termination a little to the S.E of Cape Khynzyer, on the S. side of the Bay of Iskenderoon. Its whole length is about 160 m. ; width, 30 m. The moun tains composing this range are very precipitous, and can only be traversed by beasts of burden in a few places. The most frequented road runs from Aleppo due N. to Aintab, and thence over the Almadagh to Kaisariyeh and Angora. They are well wooded, being covered in many parts with large cedars, firs, and juniper trees. ALMADEN, a mining tn. Spain, in New Castile, prov. of, and 66 m. S.W. from Ciudad Real, on an elevation in the sierra Morena. It is, on the whole, well built, and consists chiefly of one long, regular, paved, and clean street, the houses of which are smaller than are usually to be met with in Spain, occupying the summit of a ridge, with the sides scarped away into rather deep ravines. It lias several squares, in one of which, la plaza de la Constitution, are the townhall and muni cipal offices ; and in another, named la Nueva, the market is held. The finest building in the town is the prison ; after which comes the mining academy, in which is kept a collec tion of minerals and other objects useful to the students. There are likewise in the town five ordinary and two Latin schools, an hospital for miners, one for wandering houseless poor, and one for foundlings and destitute women. In the middle of the town is a rising ground, surrounded by the ruins of a Moorish castle; and the only other noteworthy building is the large storehouse connected with the mines. Alinadeu has no parish church, it having been demolished during the war of independence, hut in several hermitages Divine service is performed. The country around is far from being fertile, and little attention is paid to agriculture, the main occupation of the people being in connection with the mines. Pop. 8645. The quicksilver mines of Almaden, which are a Government monopoly, are among the most important of the kind in the world, and from them are supplied a large quantity of the metal used in the American and Austrian mines for separating gold and silver from their ores by amalgamation. The mines are in three sections ; the principal one being just outside the town to the S.E. ; the next a little further on, in the same line ; and the third at Aluiadenejos, still further on, and about 5 m. from Almaden. The great mine, the adit of which is hard by the town, consists of three nearly parallel veins, called, respec tively, San Nicolas, San Francisco, and San Diego. They are wrought in a perpendicular direction, and have attained a depth of about 900 ft., the metal increasing in quantity, and improving in quality, the deeper down it is obtained. The supporting arches inside the mine, and other permanent walls, are all of stone, and executed in a truly regal manner. The storehouses and magazines, chiefly cut in the solid rock, are in a corresponding scale of magnificence. The furnaces for sublimation being heated with aromatic herbs, send forth a delicious smell. About 5000 men are employed in and about the mines, and those who work below are only occupied six hours each day. The health of many suffers ; but, perhaps, less than might, in the circumstances, have been expected. No work is done during the summer months from want of ventilation in the mines, and during this season the miners recruit their strength. The great vein is in a bed of fine quarzite, one of those numerous beds which pervade the great slate formation of this part of the country. Associated with the veins are gray conglomerate, chiefly of fragments of slate, of a light blue or gray colour. Though the principal vein apparently rests against, yet it does not seem to run into, the slate, the beds of which are, in general, highly inclined, or nearly vertical. The average amount of quicksilver produced from these mines of late years has been 2,027,168 Ibs. (Madoz, Diccio. de Espana ; Widdrington s Spain.) ALMADEN DE LA PLATA, a tn. Spain, in Andalu sia, prov. of, and 26 m. N. by W. from Seville, near the left bank of the river Cala. In the vicinity are three mines of silver, now abandoned; and marble is quarried to some extent. Pop. 485. ALMADIA ISLETS, a ledge of black rocks running out from the extreme point of Cape Verde, some of which rise 8 or 10 ft. above the sea. The westernmost has the form of a die, and stands in lat. 1 4 44 30" N. ; Ion. 1 7 35 W. (K.) It is said that there are one or two openings through the ledge. ALMAGRERA [SIEKRA DE], a dry, barren, clay-slate mountain range of Spain, in the E. of Andalusia, bounding with Murcia, celebrated for its mines of silver and lead. It lies in the prov. of Almeria, 6 m. E. from Vera, runs in a N.E. direction, and on its S. side is washed by the Mediter ranean Sea. The mineral wealth of the locality was first dis covered by a goat herd, so late as 1830, and now the whole mountain range, and its valleys are filled with busy labourers extracting the various minerals, silver, lead, copper, zinc, alum, &c. The hills being very dry, the miners are not in their operations hindered by water ; and as the diggings do not require to be deep, the mining is easily managed. The mines and their proprietors are very numerous. Of the for mer, nearly 200 in number, those of Esperanza, Carmen, and Observacion, are the most productive ; the value of their annual output being, in lead, 32,174; and in silver, 354,014. (Willkomm s Zwei Jahre in Spanien ; Madoz, Diccio. de Eftpaiia.) ALMAGRO, a city, Spain, in New Castile, prov. of, and 12 m. E.S.E. from Ciudad Real. It is situated on a high, arid, and exposed plain; is extremely well built; has spacious, well-paved streets, and a fine square, and public walk, planted with trees, called the Glorieta; two parish churches, and a dismantled church of beautiful architecture, decorated with columns and balustrades of alabaster and jasper, formerly ALMAGIIEK ALMAZARRON belonging to the monks of St. Bernard, St. Francis, and St. Dominic. Almagro has also a townhall, two hospitals, a barrack, formerly the palace of the grand masters of Cala trava; Latin, normal, and primary schools, a large storehouse, abattoir, and cemetery. The inhabitants are engaged in dis tilling brandy, manufacturing soap, gypsum, and earthenware, and in making lace for the markets of Madrid and Paris ; this last trade occupying no less than 8000 females in this and the neighbouring towns and villages. The country around is celebrated for its mules, which are reckoned the best in Spain, and are sold in great numbers at the annual fairs in April and August, which last is also a great fair for lace. Pop. 12,600. (Madoz. niccio. de Espafia.} ALMAGUER, a tn. New Granada, prov. Los Pastos, 40 in. S.S.W. Popayan, on a height in the middle of a beau tiful plain, about 7000 ft. above the sea level ; lat. 1 54 29" N. ; Ion. 76 54 58" W. (L.) It enjoys a mild, pleasant climate; the vicinity yields wheat and barley plentifully, and contains some gold mines. It was founded in 1543 by Alonza de Fuen Mayor. ALMAHADIA, MAHADIAH, MEHEDIA, or AFRICA, a tn. Tunis, E. coast, on a cape or peninsula of the same name, about 110 m. S.E. the city of Tunis; lat. 35= 32 N; Ion. 11 6 13" E. (i,.) ; said to have been founded so early as the 9th century, by one of the Fatimite Khalifs. It seems to have been a place of great importance during the Middle Ages, and, in 1550, sustained a long and rigorous siege from the forces of Charles V. All, however, that now remains to attest its former greatness are a few defaced fragments of ancient masor.ry. Its harbour, formerly good, is now sanded up. Pop. 3000. ALMALEE, or ALMALU, a large town, Asiatic Turkey, pash. Anadolia, sanjak Meis, on the right bank of the small river Myra, 25 m. from its junction with the sea, and 57 m. W.S. W. Adalia; lat. 36 47 N.; Ion. 29 50 E. It is beau tifully situated in a little valley, or natural amphitheatre AT,MAtEE. From SclinrP* Lycia, Cari:i, of the Massacytus mountains, at the N.E. end of an extensive plain, elevated 5000 ft. above the sea. The mountain peaks that rise above the town attain great heights; the highest summit of the range to which they belong reaching 10,000 feet. The whole appearance of the town is exceedingly pleasing and picturesque, being at once finely set off and relieved by numerous tall poplars and lofty minarets; and further adorned by gardens, with which it is surrounded. The houses are built of unburnt bricks, and roofed with thin deals of cedar wood, obtained from the forests on the neigh bouring mountains, which also supplies the odoriferous fuel used by the inhabitants. The town contains altogether about 1500 houses, and has several mosques, a bazaar, and a market on Thursdays. It is well supplied with water, having suffi cient not only for domestic purposes, but for the propulsion of numerous mills, and the accommodation of several tan yards, dye works and factories. Many Frank merchants resort to this city to make purchases, which they generally forward to Makry, 40 miles W., for exportation. A number of the inhabitants of Almalce are employed in cultivating the exten sive and fertile plains which stretcli away from the town, and which are inhabited by an industrious and thriving people, as is sufficiently evident from the superior neatness and comfort exhibited in their houses and apparel, and from the excellent condition in which their fences, roads, and bridges are kept. There are no traces of antiquity here. Pop. about 20,000. (Jour. Oeo. Soc.) ALMANSA, a city of Spain, in Murcia, prov. of, and 37 m. E. from Albacete. It is a flourishing place, situated on a large and exposed plain, and is ill built, unpaved, and without any spacious squares so common all over Spain. It has a parish church and chapel, several schools, a chapter house, an hospital, a capacious prison, and a cemetery outside the town. Manufactures : Linen, cotton, and hempen fabrics, which are supplied to the neighbouring provinces; brandy, leather, and soap. The Vega, or plain, near the town, is irrigated by the Pantano (reservoir) of Alfera, which is an element of incredible fertility, under the almost African sun of this place. Almansa has obtained an historical celebrity from the fact of its having been the scene of an inglorious victory, gained April 25, 1707, by 30,000 French, under the English Duke of Berwick, over a much inferior force of British and Spanish troops, under the command of Henri de Euvigny, Earl of Galway. Pop. 8736. ALMANSOR, a river, Portugal, prov. Alemtejo, an affluent of the Tagus, which it joins 24 m. N.E. of Lisbon, on the left bank, after a course of 24 m. ALMANZORA, a river, Spain, in the E. of Andalusia, prov. Almeria. It rises in the sierra Baza, near the town of Serron, takes an E.S.E. course for about 50 m., when it falls into the Mediterranean, 5 m. N.E. from Vera. During siunmei it is an insignificant stream. ALMARAZ, a small tn. Spain, in Estremadura, prov. Caceres, on the N. bank of the Tagus, crossed here by a fine bridge, 135 ft. in span; 29 m. N.N.E. Truxillo; mean and ill built, having a small parish church, townhall, prison, and 500 inhabitants, and only worthy of mention as having been the scene of a successful surprise of the French, on May 1 7, 1812, by the British under General Hill. The towers and other works, set up by the former, were destroyed ; their stores, ammunition, provisions, and boats burned ; and more than 250 prisoners captured, including 17 officers. The British lost only about 180 men and two officers. The rapidity with which the whole was done, formed the chief element of Hill s success. (Napier s Peninsular War, vol. v. p. 19.) ALMAS. 1, A vil. Brazil, prov. Goyaz, GO m. E. city of Natividade. It is situated in a hollow, and consists of a few irregular streets. The houses are built of large un- burnt bricks, made of clay, mixed with chopped grass, and dried in the sun ; they are low, and have a mean appearance. It has a church in a ruinous condition. The country around is well adapted for plantations, but the extreme indolence of the inhabitants prevents it being turned to any account. The latter are mostly blacks and mulattoes, and amount to about 800. (Gardner s Brazil.} 2, A river of the same name in the S. of the same prov., falls into the Maranhao, about lat. 14 C 22 S., after a course of about 90 m. (Die. Geo. Imp. Brazil.} ALMAS, a large market tn. Hungary, co. Bachs, about 22 m. E. of the Danube ; lat. 46 7 N. ; Ion. 19 23 E. Pop., chiefly R. catholics, 8500. ALMAS, either singly or with various prefixes, is the name of not fewer than 39 places in Hungary, and of numerous places in Siebenburgen or Transylvania. ALMAZAN, a walled tn. Spain, in Old Castile, prov of, and 20 m. S. from Soria, on the Duero, here crossed by a stone bridge. The streets are generally well built, and paved with pebbles, though uneven. The square contains the townhall, session house, prison, hospital, and.a spacious palace belonging to the Counts of Altamira. Almazan has six parish churches, three chapels, three convents, and a fine cemetery. The walls are of great solidity, and have six gates; subterranean passages, well arched, communicate with the river and with the extramural convent of San Francisco. Manufactures : Earthenware, baize, and woollen and linen fabrics. Pop. 2400. ALMAZARRON, or MAZZARON, a tn. and port, Spain, prov. of, and 30 m. S. by W. from Murcia, and 20 m. W. Cartagena. It is well built, with wide though crooked and steep streets, and comprises two parish churches, a convent, school, town and session house, prison, several storn houses. ALMAZOKA ALMERTA and a cemetery. The people are employed in mining, fishing, the preparation of carbonate of soda, saltpetre, alum, and ochre; in smelting metals, preserving capers, the manufacture of esparto cordage, in tillage, and as muleteers. Grain, fruits, especially figs and vegetables, are raised in the vicinity; sheep, goats, and mules, are reared; and mines of iron, copper, argentiferous lead and zinc, are wrought. As a port, the trade of Almazarron is small, being chiefly coast ing; the average number of vessels that entered and sailed from it in the years 1844-5, was 556, of which 517 were coasting; aggregate tonnage, 61,299. Pop. 6814. (Madoz, Diccio. de Espana.) ALMAZORA, a tn. Spain, in Valencia, prov. of, and 4 m. S. from Castellon de la Plana, in a plain on the left bank of the Mijares; in lat. 39 56 N. ; Ion. 5 W. ; 4 in from the sea. The town comprises several spacious and well- paved squares and streets, and contains an ancient parish church, a respectable courthouse, an endowed school, hospital, and prison. Manufactures : Linen and woollen fabrics, bass mats, nnd paper. The country around is fertile, and produces wheat, barley, maize, wine, oil, figs, oranges, with many other fruits and vegetables, especially capsicums, of unusual size and weight ; sheep, goats, and cattle arc reared, and some fishing carried on. Pop. 3636. (Madoz.) ALMEBY, or ALMERI.EY, a par. England, co. Hereford; area, 3630 ac. ; 6J m. W. Weobly. Pop. in 1841, 642. ALMEIDA, a tn. Brazil, prov. Espirito-Santo, agreeably situated on a height fronting the sea, at the mouth of the Keis-Magos. about 20m. N. of the town of Victoria of Espirito- Santo. It possesses a church, an extensive market place, and a large edifice erected by the Jesuits, who founded the town in 1580, and which is now used as the townhall, the jail, and the curate s dwelling house. The inhabitants, chiefly Indians and half breeds, are on the increase, and employ themselves in fishing, in raising the necessaries of life, in felling building timber for export, and in manufacturing earthenware. The women cultivate and spin cotton. Some export trade is carried on in these products of industry with Victoria and Kio de Janeiro. Pop. 4000. (Die. Geo. Imp. Brazil.} ALMEIDA, a fortified tn. Portugal, prov. Beira-alta, 53 m. S.E. Lamego, on an elevated plain on the right bank of the Coa, within 8 m. of the Spanish frontier ; lat. 40 43 N. ; Ion. 6 52 W. ; and containing an hospital, monastery, church, and poor s house. It is one of the strongest, and, from its position near the Spanish frontier, one of the most important fortresses in Portugal. After the convention of Cintra, in 1808, Almeida was surrendered by the French, and the garrison marched to Oporto. For a while after, it re mained in possession of the British ; but, on the night of Aug 27, 1810, it again fell into the hands of the French, under Massena, being retaken by the English in May 1811, and restored to Portugal. Pop. 1 150. (Napier s Peninsular War, vol. iii. p. 517 ; Taloa Geografico Luzitana.) ALMEIRIM, or ALMEYRIM, a tn. Portugal, prov. Estre- madura, 5 m. S.E. Santarem. The town, built by John I., in 1411, has a royal castle, church, hospital, and workhouse. Pop. 1382. ALMELO, a tn. Holland, prov. Overijssel, cap. of arrond. arid canton of same name, 25 m. S.E. Zwolle, and 22 m. N.E. Deventer, on the Almelosehe Aa, on an affluent of the Regge, by means of which it has water communication for track boats with Zwolle. It is a comfortable trading town, and possesses a handsome townhall, a Calvinistic and a Baptist church, a Jewish synagogue, two ordinary schools, and one for Latin and modern languages. Formerly, a considerable business was done here in weaving and bleaching linen, which has, however, decreased, in consequence of the more general use of cotton. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in pre paring yarn and cotton goods ; and they carry on a good trade in corn. The town has likewise a steam cotton spinncry, a gin distillery, a brewery, snuffmill, three cornmills, smithies, soapboilery, calenders, &c. Pop. 3000. (Van der Aa s Ncderlanden.) ALMENDRALEJO, a tn. Spain, in Estremadura, prov. of, and 28 m. S.E. from Badajos, on a gentle slope in the midst of a fertile plain. It comprises one grand square, with numerous, generally well-constructed, paved, and clean streets, ornamented with arcades and water courses. In the square is a handsome promenade lined with acacias, and adorned with j a fountain of excellent water. The parish church, townhonse, five schools, a capacious prison, an extensive bull ring, and a theatre, are the chief public edifices of the town. The in habitants are employed in agriculture, weaving, expressing oil, and distilling brandy on an extensive scale. The com merce is confined to the importation of colonial requisites, and the export of considerable quantities of wheat, barley, oats, and a small quantity of beans and pease. A considerable number of sheep, horses, and mules, and a few goats, are reared in the vicinity. Pop. 5810. ALMENNO SAN SALVATORE, a tn. Venetian Lorn- hardy, cap. of district of same name, prov. of, and 7 m. N. W. from Bergamo, on an eminence near the foot of Mount St. Bernard, on the right bank of the river Brembo, formerly crossed by a handsome stone bridge with eight arches, of which the piles only now remain. The town is well built, and comprises several churches ; a noble townhouse, adorned with numerous fine paintings ; an hospital, and a castle. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in the cultivation of grain and fruits, especially grapes, and rearing sheep, cattle, &c. An annual fair is held in February. Pop. of town, 1772 ; of district, 14,302. (Dido. Univ. Italia.} ALMER, a par. England, co. Dorset ; area, 1520 ac. ; 6 m. S.S.E. Blandford. Pop. in 1841, 189. ALMERIA, a maritime prov. Spain, in Andalusia, and forming a part of what once was the kingdom of Granada. It is bounded, N. by Jaen and Murcia ; E. and S. by the Mediter ranean Sea, from San Juan Ferreros to the river Adra ; and W. by the provs. of Granada and Malaga ; area, 3906 sq. m. Its j whole surface is covered with mountains of greater or less ele- I vation ; but it presents also numerous, and sometimes extensive, | valleys, spreading out into open plains, which are as fertile as the mountains are barren. The principal sierras are, in the W., some offsets of the sierra Nevada, among which maybe named the sierra Sador, whose culminating peak, 6575 ft. high, is covered with snow three quarters of the year ; in the N., the limestone chain, under various names, forming the boundary between Almeria and Granada, and its offsets, sierra de Maria, sierra de Oria, and sierra de la Estancias ; S. of the last named sierra lies the gneiss range, the sierra de Filabres, whose culminating point, C abeza de Maria, is 6270 ft. high ; S. from this chain lies the limestone range of sierra Aljamilla, terminating at the sea in the trachytic and basaltic cliffs of Cape Gata. The province is rich in mines of silver, lead, iron, copper, and antimony; nitre, jasper, and marble, are also obtained ; and large quantities of salt are procured from salines, or salt pools. The soil of the valleys, as already alluded to, is good, and produces maize, sugar, grapes, and southern fruits .abundantly ; and depastures cattle, which are somewhat famed. Besides agriculture, the principal occu pation is connected with the extensive mining operations car ried on. (See ALMAGRERA.) Esparto cordage, matting, and baskets, white lead, soap, soda, and earthenware, are manu factured ; the products of the soil, and of the mines, esparto, barilla, and soap, are exported ; and manufactured cloths of various kinds imported. Education in this province is in a low state; and crimes are numerous, though in this respect it contrasts favourably with Alicante and Ciudad Real. Pop. 292,334. (Madoz, Diccio. de Espana.} ALMERIA [aric. Murgis], a city and port of Spain, in Andalusia, on the Mediterranean, cap. of a prov. of its own name, near the mouth of the river Almeria, and on the gulf of the same name, 104m E. Malaga; lat 36 50 N. ; Ion. 2 32 W. (R.) It stands S. of the sierra de Enix, in an ex tensive and fertile plain ; it is in great part enclosed by Moorish bastioned walls, about 2 m. in circuit, and is defended sea ward by the two forts of Trinidad and Tiro. The streets are narrow, tortuous, and ill built, but tolerably well paved and clean, lined chiefly with houses erected round small internal squares, forming court yards. It has five squares, one of which, the Plaza de la Constitution, contains the town and provincial halls, and some Government offices, and likewise serves as a market place. The other public establishments are a Gothic cathedral, founded in 1524, and four parish churches ; a theo logical college, attended by 80 students ; a college for classi cal and other literature (colegio de human/datles), attended by about 50 students ; a ladies college, and seven primary, and five advanced schools, under a provincial junta, or patriotic society of the Amigos del pais ; a charitable hospital, cus- 13 ALMERIA torn honso on tlie quay, theatre, nnd small, incommodious, and unhealthy prison. On a hill rising 240 ft. above the sea, is an old Moorish fort, called the Alca/.aba, about 1560 ft. in length from E. to W., and about 300 ft. in breadth. Leaving the town N.E. is a prettily-planted nlameda,2-10yds. long, and in the suburb of las Hu- crtas is another, 500 yards long. TheportofAlme- ria is without a mole, though it is proposed to erect one. In the bay, however, there is good and safe an chorage in 12 and 14 fathoms. The port is one of the second class. About 130 Span ish, and about 355 foreign vessels, of an aggregate tonn. of about 130,000 tons, enter and leave the port annually ; besides which, the port has between 700 and 800 coasters. The export trade consists principally in lead, esparto, and barilla, large quantities of which are raised on the plain adjoining the town. The average value of the exports amounts to 248,298. Its imports comprise coal, fire bricks, woollen, cotton, and silk fabrics, &c., to an annual average value of 247,986. The internal industry of the town, which at present is quite inconsiderable, comprises the preparation of soap, with manufactures of coarse linen and woollen fabrics, sombrero hats, earthenware, bricks, saltpetre, and esparto mats and cordage. Pop. 17,800. (Madoz, Diccio. de Espa/iia.} ALMERIA (GULF OF), Spain, in Granada, having Cape Gata on the E., and Point Elena on the W., about 25 in. in width at the entrance, and in depth inland about 10 m. ; lat. 36 51 N. ; Ion. 2 32 W. ALMERODE (Gaoss), a tn. Hesse-Cassel, 23 m. W. Cassel; lat. 51 17 N.; Ion. 9 45 E. ; has considerable manufactures of the well-known Hessian crucibles, pipes, billiard balls, china, and earthenware, with alum and vitrol refineries, and some coalworks. Pop. 2107. ALMIRANTE, a bay, Veragua. See BOCA DEL TORO. ALMISSA [Sclavonic, Olmisch], a small tn. Austria, prov. Dalmatia, on the coast of the Adriatic, near the mouth of the Cettina, about 14 m. S.E. Spalatro. The vicinity affords good timber for shipbuilding, which is shipped at the port of Almissa for the neighbouring islands of Brazza and Curzola. Pop., which seems to be decreasing, about 730. ALMKERK, a vil. Holland, prov. N. Brabant, 8 m. N.W. Heusden, and 7 m. N.E. Geertruidenberg, on the right bank of the Aim, whence it derives its name. It has a Cal- vinistic church, a school, and an annual horse fair, held in June. Pop. 1100. ALMODOVAR, a small tn. Portugal, prov. Alemtejo, 13 m. S.E. Ourique, on the high road between that place and Faro. Pop. 2428. ALMODOVAR DEL CAMPO. 1, A tn. Spain, in New Castile, prov. of, and 18 m. S. by W. from Ciudad Real, on the summit of the ridge of St. Briget, an offset of the sierra Morena. The town comprises a square, and several well- arranged, clean, and commodious, though badly-paved streets, with exception of a few on the hill called del Castillo. The public buildings are a parish church, with a tower containing the town clock; a courthouse, school, prison, two public fountains, the ruins of an ancient castle, and a convent, used as an hospital in the civil war, now appropriated to the incongruous purposes of a theatre nnd oilmill. The inhabit ants are chiefly employed in agriculture, rearing cattle, grind ing corn, and manufacturing oil, for which latter purposes windmills are used. The women manufacture blonde, stuffs, and other materials for wearing apparel. Pop. 5G20. 2, AL- ALMERIA flioM THK SEA WALL From Chapuy, L E>pa.> ALMONDBURY MonovAR-DEi,-Rio. a tn. in Andalusia, prov. of, and 15. m. W. by S. from Cordova. Pop. 1292. 3, ALMODOVAR-DEL-PINAR, a tn. in New Castile, prov. of, and 28 m. S.E. from Cuencn. Pop. 934. (Madoz. Diccio. de EspaKa.} ALMOGIA, a tn. Spain, in Granada, prov. of, and 15 m. N. by W. from Ma laga, at the base of a mountain, about 2 m. to the right of the river Campanilles. The town comprises about 443 houses, and contains a pa rish church, town hall, ruinous cas tle, two schools, a storehouse, and a prison. Manu factures : Hard ware, wax, soft soap, woollen fa brics, oil, and brandy. Grain, wine, oil, fruits, and vegetables, honey and wool, are produced in the sur rounding country. Pop. 4068. ALMOGUERA, or UCEKO, a river, Spain, in Old Castile, rising in the sierra Umbria, near San Leonardo, prov. Soria, and after pursuing a winding S. course of about 40 m., it falls into the Duero. ALMOHARIN, a tn. Spain, in Estremadura, prov. of, and 32 m. S.S.E. from Caceres, at the S. base of the rocky ridge of St. Cristobal, by which it is protected from the N. wind. The streets are narrow, tortuous, and most of them unpavecl; in the square are the parish church, townhouse, prison, public granary, and an endowed school. Manufac tures: Wine, oil, flour, and linen and woollen fabrics. Many of the inhabitants are engaged in husbandry. Pop. 2191. ALMONASTER LA REAL, a tn. Spain, in Andalu sia, prov. of, and 32 m. N. from Huelva, on an elevated ridge near the brook Nogales. Its streets are inconveniently steep, but well arranged, paved, and clean. The town con tains a parish church and a chapel, situated in the square; a ruinous castle, endowed school, public fountain, and cemetery. Sheep and goats are reared, and exported to Cadiz and Sevilla ; and grain and wine are imported from Estremadura and Niebla. Pop. 2007. (Madoz.) ALMOND, or AMON, the name of two rivers in Scotland, one wholly in Perthshire, and the other having its source in Lanarkshire. The former rises in the hills, about midway between Loch Earn and Loch Tay, flows in a S.E. direction, and falls into the river Tay near Scone, or about 2 \ m. above Perth. It is a bold and rapid stream, abounds with trout and salmon, and presents, at numerous points, scenery of the most picturesque and beautiful description. Its entire course is about 25 to 30 in. in length. The latter rises in the high grounds in Lanarkshire, flows in a N.E. direction, forming, during a part of its course, the boundary between the counties of Edinburgh and Linlithgow, and finally falls into the Forth at Cramond, about 5 m. above Leith. It is crossed at two different points, within a short distance of each other, by the aqueduct of the Glasgow Union Canal, and the viaduct of the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway, both noble structures. The entire length of its course is about 25 m. ALMONDBURY, a large vil., township, and par. in England, co. York, W. Riding, wapentake Agbrigg. The village lies on the river Calder, 2 m. S.E. Huddersfield, and 35 m. S.W. York. The parish church is a neat structure of pointed architecture, with a tower and six bells. There is here a free grammar school founded by James I., a Wesleyan school, and a national school. The principal manufactures of the village and township are fancy goods, which are pro duced in great variety, chiefly cloths for waistcoatings ; but shawls, and broad and narrow cloths, are also manufactured to a considerable extent. The weavers of these fabrics generally ALMONDSBURY ALNWICK work at home, having most of them one or more looms in then- houses. Of the former there are, altogether, about 2000 in the township. Almondbury is a place of great antiquity, and is said to have been the residence of some of the Saxon kings. It is also supposed to be the Cambodunum of the Komans. The inhabitants of both the village and parish are chiefly employed in cotton, woollen, and silk mills, of which there are several in the parish. Area of par., 30,140 ac. Pop. in 1841, 37,315; of township, 8828. ALMONDSBURY, a par. England, co. Gloucester; area, 6950 ac. ; 6 m. N.E. Bristol. Pop. 1584. ALMONTE, a river, Spain, in Estremadura, formed by the union of three streams rising in the sierra de Guadaloupe, in the neighbourhood of Logrosan, prov. Caceres. It takes a N.W. and somewhat zigzag course, and falls into the Tagus, after receiving the Megasca and numerous other affluents. Its entire length is about 75 in. ALMONTE, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 22 m. E. from Huelva, on the side of a gentle slope, sur rounded by plantations of olives and pines. It consists of a square, and several inconvenient and dirty streets, rendered yet more filthy by the impurities conveyed into them by pipes from the houses, most of which are mean and confined. The town contains two churches; a municipal house, supported by arches and thick marble columns; an endowed school, a wretched prison, and a cemetery. In the vicinity are four windmills, one water mill, and eight oilmills. Oil, wine, and live stock are exported. Grain, though in insufficient quantity for local use, and abundance of oil and wine, are produced ; 2000 or 3000 milch cows, and 500 brood mares, are kept ; and considerable numbers of sheep, goats, and pigs, reared. Pop. 3779. ALMORA, a tn. and fortress, Hindoostan, cap. district of Kumaoon, 170 m. E.N.E. Delhi; lat. 29 35 30" N.; Ion. 79 38 38" E. (L.) ; on a hill or ridge 5400 ft. above the sea. In 1790 it was taken by the Goorkhas, who were expelled in 1815 by the British, to whom the whole province was at that time ceded. The town is compactly built, and consists chiefly of a single street, 6 furlongs in length, and 50 ft. wide; having a natural pavement of rock, with a gateway at each end. The houses are of stone; the lowest stories, open in front, with square pillars, are used as shops; and the upper project ing stories are faced with wood. The sloping roof s are slated and neat, but the piles of straw, or hay, with which they are covered by the inhabitants for winter provision to their cattle, greatly disiigure the appearance of the town. In airy situa tions around, there are a number of bungalows, or low stone cottages, built by Government for civil and military invalids. On the E. extremity of the ridge of Almora stands the old Goorkha fort, built of stone; and to the E. of it are several mar- tello towers. The new citadel, named Fort Moira, erected on the W. extremity by the British, is a parallelogram, with six bastions, but, from its situation, is incapable of a lengthened defence ; and, being composed of the friable material of the hill, is fast going to decay. The natives of Almora are described as honest and peaceful, but little advanced in civil ization ; the surrounding country is bleak, and subject to frequent earthquakes ; the climate temperate, and by no means unhealthy. (Hamilton s East India Gaz.; Heber s Journal.} ALMORAD1, a tn. Spain, in Valencia, prov. of, and 28 m. S.S.W. from Alicante, on the left bank of the Segura; having a square, and several tolerable streets, a parish church, an endowed school, and a small hospital. Brandy distilling, .soap making, dyeing, oil expressing, and flour grinding, are carried on. Wheat, maize, barley, and various fruits and vegetables are raised. Pop. 3095. (Madoz.) ALMOR1TIA, or BALLYMORAN, a par. Ireland, co. Westmcath ; area, 2205 ac. Pop. in 1841, 700. ALMSFORD, a par. England, co. Somerset; area, 920 ac. ; near Wells. Pop. in 1841, 293. ALMU^ECAR, a small city and seaport, Spain, in Andalusia, on the Mediterranean, prov. of, and 38 m. S. from Granada; lat. 36 47 50" N.; Ion. 3 25 10" W. (c.) The town, formerly Moorish, is in general well built, and has clean streets. Its public buildings comprise a parish church, chapel of ease, townhall, prison, three schools, public store house, and the remains of a citadel. The inhabitants are occupied in agriculture, and in the manufacture of sugar, earthenware, and cotton fabrics; their trade, once flourishing, is now insignificant, and is solely in fruits and colonial requisites. The port is only adapted for small vessels, being much exposed to dangerous E. winds. The vicinity produces grain, fruits, vegetables, and wine of superior quality ; and all kinds of domestic cattle are reared. Pop. 5000. (Madoz.) ALMUN1A DE DO5JA GODINA (LA), a tn. Spain, in Aragon, prov. of, and 24 m. S. W. from Saragossa, pleasantly situated on a plain near the small river Grio. it is surrounded by decayed walls, in which are three gates, and is tolerably well built. It contains a spacious central square, parish church, and church of the Knights of St. John ; some schools, a handsomely-built consistory, storehouse, asylum, and abattoir. The inhabitants are chiefly occupied in preparing soap and distilling brandy. Pop. 2560. ALNE, a par. England, co. York, N. Riding; area, 10,250 ac.; 4 m. S.W. by S. Easingwold. Pop. in 1841, 1703. ALN EMOUTH, or ALEMOUTH, a small seaport, England, co. Northumberland ; partly on the slope of n low hill, at the mouth of the river Alne, 4 m. E.S.E. Alnwick. The houses are part stone and part brick, and but indifferently built; the streets crooked, and not very well kept. There is some trade in exporting corn and other farm produce, and in importing timber and general merchandise, from the Netherlands. There is also a considerable fishery. Pop. in 1841, 480. ALNESS, a par. Scotland, co. Ross ; extreme length, about 20 m.; average breadth, 5 m. Pop. in 1841, 1067. ALNEY (Isi.E OF), a small isl. in the river Severn, England, about 1 m. W. the town of Gloucester. John Olney, a charterhouse monk in the reign of Edward III., the author of a few of the old Miracle Plays, was born here. ALNHAM, a par. England, co. Northumberland; area, 10,360 ac. Pop. in 1841, 256. ALNO, an isl., about 9 m. long, by 4 m. broad, in the Gulf of Bothnia, S. of Hemosaud, on the coast of Sweden; lat. 62 25 N. ; Ion. 17 20 E. ; with iron mines, chalk quar ries, and herring fisheries. ALNWICK, a market tn. and par. England, co. Nor thumberland, Coquetdale ward, E division. The town is pleasantly situated on the declivity of a hill sloping down to the river Alne, from which it derives its name; 25 m. S.E. Berwick, and 32 m. N. Newcastle. It is connected by a short branch, of about 5 m. in length, with the Berwick and Newcastle Railway. The streets are in general spacious, well paved, and lighted with gas, and the town throughout abundantly supplied with water. The houses are mostly of freestone, many of them handsome, and nearly all of modern erection; few of the ancient buildings now remaining. The market place, a large area or square, occupies the centre of the town. On one side is the townhall, an extensive building surmounted with a square tower, erected in 1731 ; containing, with other conveniences, a large and elegant hall, in which fashionable assemblies were occasionally held in former times. On another side of the square stands a beautiful modern structure, erected in 1827, by the Duke of Northumberland, the lower part of which is occupied as markets, the upper by a handsome assembly room and reading room. The parish church is a large Gothic structure with a neat tower. The R. catholic chapel is also a handsome edifice. There are, besides, several meeting houses for dissenters, a number of excellent schools, a dispensary, and several charities ; a me chanics institute, with library and philosophical instruments attached. But the object of greatest interest in Alnwick is its ancient castle, one of the seats of the Dukes of Nor thumberland. This magnificent specimen of the old baronial residence for nu-my centuries a fortress of great strength, and as such celebrated in Border history stands on an emin ence which rises from the S. side of the river Alne, opposite to the town. It is believed to have been founded by the Romans; at any rate, it has been ascertained that the site was previously occupied by Roman buildings. About the year 1830, the castle was repaired and restored at an expense of nearly 200,000, and is now in appearance precisely what it was in the days of border chivalry, ingeniously combined with modern elegancies and conveniences. The avenue form ing the approach to the mansion is superb; while the grounds, which are 5 m. long, and through which flows the Alne, ex hibit every species of natural and artificial beauty. A cross, called Malcolm s Cross, marks the spot where Malcolm III. is said to have been killed by a soldier, who, on pretence of ALONIA 100 ALPES delivering him the keys of the castle, which he presented on the point of a spear, thrust the weapon into his body. Alnwick possesses but few facilities for either trade or manufactures. There are, however, several tanneries, brew eries, and brick and tile works in the town ; and a considerable business is done in the produce of the fertile country around, chiefly corn, pork, and eggs, which are sent to Alemouth or Alnumoutli, the port of the town, at the mouth of the river, where they are shipped for the London market. The corpor ation consists of a bailiff, nominated by the Duke of Northum berland; 24 common councilman, including four chamberlains. The quarter sessions for the county are held here, in turn with Newcastle, Hexham, and Morpeth; and there is a county court monthly for the recovery of small debts. Area of par., 16,250 ac. Pop. in 1841, G62G. (Correspondent in Alnwick.) ALONIA, or LIMAN PASHA [anc. Hulone], a small isl. Asiatic Turkey, in the Sea of Marmora, whose inhabitants are employed in wine growing, and rearing silkworms. It has a capital of the same name, the residence of a Greek metropolitan bishop. ALOKA, a city, Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 24 m. N.W. from Malaga, occupying a mountainous and exposed site near the foot of the sierra del Hacho. It has two squares, which, with the two principal streets, are well built and paved ; the remaining part of the town is very irregular and hilly. The grand square contains the parish church, parts of which are good specimens of Ionic architecture. The other public buildings consist of an hospital, prison, several schools, alms- houses ; three convents, with churches attached ; and the re mains of an ancient Gothic castle. Agriculture, expressing oil, and the manufacture of soap and sulphate of soda, are the chief employments!. Grain, fruit, vegetables, and superior wine are raised in the vicinity, and some sheep and cattle are reared, for the sale of which a fair is held in August. Pop. 6794. A LOST, a tn. Belgium, prov. E. Flanders, near the con fines of S. Brabant; 15 m. W.N.W. Brussels, and 3 in. S. the Audegem station of the Ostende and Brussels Railway. It Ls surrounded with walls, which have five gates; and is tra versed by the Dender, which has been converted into a canal, from Alost to its junction with the Scheldt at Termonde or Dendermonde, 8 m. below. The finest building in the town is the church of St. Martin, said to be by the architect of the cathedral of Amiens. It is either unfinished, or has been partially destroyed ; but the part existing forms one of the largest and finest churches in Belgium, and is adorned by a celebrated picture by Rubens St. Roch beseeching our Saviour to stay the plague of Alost. AVithin the church is the mausoleum of Thierry Martens, a native of the town, who introduced the art of printing into Belgium A.D. 1475. The inscription states, with some ambiguity, and without much regard to accuracy, that he was the first printer of Germany, France, and the Netherlands. The only other buildings worthy of notice are the townhouse, which was founded A.D. 1200, and has been recently rebuilt; and the college, which is a handsome structure. The chief public institutions, beside the college, are the hospital, the academy of design, the chamber of commerce, and the horticultural society. Both the trade and manufactures of Alost are of considerable importance. The former is in corn, oil, and particularly hops, which arc extensively grown in the neighbourhood. The latter are chiefly lace, cotton goods, hats, leather, glue, chicory, tobacco, and the various products of numerous breweries, distilleries, salt refineries, flax and cotton mills, bleachfields, printfields, dyeworks, copper and iron foundries. Alost, of which the earliest mention in charters is A.D. 870, was anciently the capital of what was called imperial Flanders. The French, under Turenne, took it in 1667, but were obliged to abandon it after their signal defeat by Marlborough, at Ramelies, in 1706. Several Roman coins have been found in the neigh bourhood. Pop. 15,000. (.Meert, Diet, de la Btlgique.) ALOUTA. See ALUTA. ALOZAYNA, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 26 m. N.W. from Malaga, on the N. side of a ridge of rock. It is, on the whole, respectably built, though inconvenient from the steepness of the hill, and has a good central square, ;i parish church, and some schools ; a consistory, hospital, prison, and several public fountains. The inhabitants are principally employed in husbandry, in grinding corn and oil, and in making hardware, earthenware, and tiles. Pop. 2920. ALPERA, a tn. Spain, in Murcia, prov. of, and 28 m. S.E. from Albacete, situated on rough, uneven, ground, in an ex posed, mountainous situation. It is clean, and has three good squares, a parish church, and some schools ; a townhall, old ruined palace, storehouse, and prison. The inhabitants carry on some trade in cattle, but are chiefly agricultural. Pop. 2430. ALPES (BASSES) [Lower Alps], a frontier dep. in the S.E. of France, on the AV. slope of the Alps mountains, forming part of ancient Provence, with the addition of the rich valley of Barcelonnette, formerly in Dauphine" ; bounded, E. by Piedmont, W. by the deps. Vaucluse and Drome ; S. by that of the Var, and N. by that of the Hautes Alpes ; area, 1,686,127 ac.; only about a fourth part of which is arable land, while nearly one-half is covered with heather and moss, and about a sixth with wood. The whole depart ment is of a decidedly mountainous character, being traversed and intersected almost throughout by a ramification of the Alps, several of whose summits attain elevations from 7000 to 9000 ft., and are never free of snow. The slopes of the mountains are generally covered with wood, but not unfre- quently yield a rich pasturage, on which numerous flocks of sheep, brought hither in spring after having been wintered at Aries, are said to thrive remarkably. Between the moun tains, numerous valleys, some of them of considerable extent, intervene. They are generally very fertile, yielding on the higher levels rich herbage, and in the plains good crops of grain, and large quantities of fruit. The inhabitants of the more sheltered districts cultivate the olive, the mulberry, the plum, the fig, and the almond. In several communes the vine also is carefully cultivated, and yields a wine of tolerable quality for home consumption. Bees are reared in consider able numbers ; and among the articles exported are honey, dried fruits, &c. The horses are small in size, and few in number, mules and asses being preferred to them. Goats are game, and wild animals are numerous. The chamois is com mon on the mountain steeps, and the wolf not unfrequently makes his appearance. Lead, calamine, copper, and iron, with some coal, are among the mineral productions of the department. The manufactures, not important, consist prin cipally of hats, coarse woollen stuffs, some silks, leather, paper, earthenware, and brandy. During a part of the year, many of the poorer inhabitants emigrate into other provinces in quest of employment. Salt springs are found near Castel- lane, and mineral waters at Greoux. Pop. in 1846, 156,675. (Diet, de la France ; French Official Papers.) ALPES (HAUTES) [Upper Alps], a dep. France, forming part of the S.E. of Dauphine*, and a small part of Provence, lying on the AV. slope of the Alps ; bounded, E. by the Sar dinian States, W. by the dep. of Drome, N.W. by that of the Isere, and S. by that of the Basses Alpes ; area, 1,366,561 ac., of which nearly one-half is occupied by moors, heaths, and waste lands, while not a fourth part consists of arable land, meadows, and vineyards. Like the department of the Basses Alpes, it is covered almost throughout by enormous masses of mountains, several of which are among the loftiest of the Alpine range. Mont Pelvoux, the highest mountain in France, is in this department, and its culminating peak, called the Pointe dcs Arsines, or des Ecrines, is 13,442 ft. above the level of the sea. The height of Mont Gene vre is 11,788 ft. The scenery is described as being wild and savage, but impos ing. The mountains, on their S. side, are almost arid and bare ; but on the N. side, are covered with forests, which ascend almost to the limits of vegetation. The climate presents all the vicissitudes and sudden changes of a mountain region violent hurricanes, storms of hail, heavy falls of rain and .snow. In general, however, the air is clear, and not much subject to the unwholesome fogs with which districts of the same description are frequently visited. Winter, in the higher valleys, prevails for eight months, during which the inhabit ants are shut out from all communication with their neighbours. The department contains several lakes. The chief streams are the Durance, the Guil, the Buech, the Aigues, and the Drac. Though nearly half the surface is uncultivated land and barren rocks, the principal occupation of the inhabitants is agriculture and the rearing of cattle. In the narrow valleys the snow lies long, yet the crops are seldom insufficient for local consumption. Potatoes, flax, and hemp, are grown in considerable quantities; and among the fruit trees cultivated are the chestnut, the walnut, and the mulberry. The vine* ALPHAMSTONE 101 produce annually about 1,510,000 gallons of wine, some of which is much esteemed. The slopes supply abundant pasture for sheep and goats. A great number of aromatic and medi cinal herbs and plants grow here. All sorts of game abound, and birds of prey are numerous, particularly the great eagle. In the mountains are found granite, marble, lithographic stone, copper, lead, zinc, iron, antimony, coal, &c. ; and among the manufactures are cutlery, woollen and cotton goods, nut oil, hats, agricultural implements, brandy, leather, nails, tiles, &c. The exports include most of these articles, with cattle, wool to a large extent, woollen goods, wood, cheeses, and chestnuts. More than 4000 of the inhabitants yearly emigrate to other parts of France in search of employment. Gap is the capital, and other principal towns are Briancon and Embrun. Pop. in 1846, 133,100. (Diet, de la France.) ALPHAMSTONE, a par. England, co. Essex; area, 1440 ac. ; 6 m. N.E. by E. Halstead. Pop. in 1841, 314. ALPHEN, the name of three villages in Holland : 1, A vil., prov. S. Holland, 7 m. S.E. Leyden, and 20 m. S.W. Amsterdam, on the left bank of the old Rhine, over which there is here a drawbridge. It is a comfortable and prosperous village, and one of the largest in Holland, having always a considerable stir in it, from the numerous boats which pass it, plying up and down the Rhine. It has a Calvinistic and a K. catholic church, three schools, an orphan hospital, and a royal posting establishment. Pop. about 2700 2, A vil., prov. Gelderland, arrond. of, and 16 in. S.W. from Nijmegen, on the right bank of the Maas. It has a Calvinistic and R. cath olic church, and a school. Its inhabitants, 800 in number, are employed in agriculture and rearing cattle. 3, A vil., prov. N. Brabant, arrond. of, and 12 m. S.E. from Breda, about 3 m. on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, between Lyons and Nice, when, separating the basin of the Rhone from the afflu ents of the Po, the chain stretches across Switzerland and the Tyrol to the sources of the Drave and the Salzach, where it bifurcates. The N. branch covers the country round Salz burg, Styria, and Austria, and proceeds N.E. to Brody, in Galicia; whilst the S. branch, after having separated Carin- thia from the Venetian territory, subdivides on the frontiers of Illyria into two branches, including the basin of the Save, and appears to terminate at the head of the Gulf of Quarnero and the banks of the Kulpa. From this river, however, a chain stretches S.E. through Dalmatia and Bosnia, lowering down at the river Narenta (an affluent of the Adriatic), which is now conventionally assumed as the S.E. boundary of the Alps. This great congeries of mountains may be said to be included between lat. 44 and 48 N. ; and Ion. 5 and 18 E. The culminating peak of the whole system is Mont Blanc, 15,732 ft. high, though the true centre is St. Gothard, or rather the mountains between the sources of the Rhone and the Inn, and the Swiss cantons Valais, Bern, Uri, and Grisons, on the N. ; and canton Tessin, and Lombardy and Sardinia, on the S. It is a curious fact, that its great central mass is nearly equidistant from the pole and from the equator. From its slopes flow, either directly or by affluents, the great rivers of central Europe, the Danube, Rhine, Rhone, and Po. From the Jura mountains the Alps are separated by the narrow gorge through which the Rhone passes below Geneva ; the point of separation from the Appenines is assumed to be the valley of Savona, E. from the Col de Tende. Divisions. According to their altitude, the Alps are some times divided into Low, Middle, and High. In the first of from the Belgian frontier. It is mentioned in history as early \ these divisions are included all from 2000 to 5500 ft. high ; as A.D. 711; and has a R. catholic church, and 350 inhabitants, I in the second, those from 5500 ft. to 8000 ft., where the snow chiefly employed in agriculture. ) line commences ; and in the third, those from 8000 ft. to ALPHETON, a par. England, co. Suffolk ; area, 2250 ac.; 6 m. N. by E. Sudbury. Pop. in 1841, 321. ALPHEUS, a river, Greece. See RoumiA. ALPHINGTON, a par. England, co. Devon; area, 2720 ac. ; traversed by the river Exe. Pop. in 1841, 1286. ALPHONSE, an isl. in the Indian Ocean ; the N. point of which is in lat, 6 59 30" S. ; Ion. 52 41 E. ; but the mean of four other (ships ) observations places it in lat. 7 4 S. ; Ion. 52 49 E. It is low, of considerable extent, and exhibits some small trees or shrubs. It is surrounded with reefs, which are fast rising into an island of greater extent than Alphonse, About 12 m. S. from the latter lies a sandy isle, or bank, called South Alphonse, a little above water, with a reef of high breakers surrounding it, and extending N.E. and S.W. five or six miles. There are no soundings within a mile of the sand. Dangerous reefs nearly unite the N. and S. islands ; there is a passage through them, but it is intricate and perilous, and the currents are strong and uncertain. (Horsburerh s East Indian Directory.) ALP1NGTON, a par. England, co. Norfolk ; area, 630 ac. ; 6 m. S.E. Norwich. Pop. in 1841, 197. ALPNAOH, or ALPNACHT, a vil. Switzerland, canton Untcrwalden; about 1 m. from that part of the Lake of Luzern called Lake Alpnaeh, at the foot of Mount Pilatus ; 8 m. S. Luzern, and 5J W. by S. Stanz. It is chiefly remark able for its famous slide, a kind of wooden trough by -which the spruce firs of Mount Pilatus were at one time conveyed to the lake, from a height of 2500 ft. to a distance of nearly 8 m., which was accomplished in six minutes from the time the tree was launched. A stream of water kept the trough continually moist, to prevent friction, and thus facilitate the descent of the timber. It is not now in use, the timber being brought down by carriages drawn by horses and oxen. Alp naeh has a fine church, the steeple of which is the highest in the canton. Pop. 1500. 15,000 ft., whose summits are covered with perpetual snow. A better known, and more precise, division is that adopted by geographers into 10 great ranges. 1. The Maritime Alps [Latin, Alpes Maritimce], consisting of 14 branches, commencing at the valley of Savona, the junc tion of the Alps and the Appenines, running N.W. to the valley of Barcelonnette, thence N. and N.E. to Mont Viso, separating Piedmont from Provence, a total distance of about 100 in. The culminating peak is the Col de Larget, 10,345 ft. high ; and the principal rivers rising in the chain are the Bormida, Stura, Var, and Verdar. 2. The Cottian Alps [Latin, Alpes Cottice, from Cottius, a prince who resided at Susa], consisting of nine branches, from Mont Viso to Mont Cenis, having a general direction, first, of S. to N., then to N.W., and latterly to N.E. Their total length is about 60 m. ; their highest peak, Mont Olan, 13,819 ft. ; and the principal rivers rising in them are the Po and the Durance. 3. The Graian, or Grecian Alps [Latin, Allies Graice, so named by the Romans, from the supposition that Hercules crossed them when returning from Spain], comprising six branches, between Mont Cenis and the Col de Bonhomme, about 50 m. They include a great part of the mountains of Savoy, which province they separate from Piedmont. Their direc tion is N.E. and E., as far as the Rocca Melone, then N. to Mont Iseran, from which point they run N.W. to the Allee Blanche. Their highest peak is Mont Iseran, 13,272 ft. ; the Little St. Bernard forms part of the range ; and the principal river rising in it is the Isere. 4. The Pennine Alps [Latin, Alpes Pennince, from Celtic, Pen, an elevated object], including 12 branches, and having a direction S.S.W. to E.N.E., from the Col de Bonhomme to Monte Rosa, about 60 m. Their highest peaks, as well as of the whole Alps, are Mont Blanc, 15.732 ft.; Monte Rosa, 15,152 ft.; and Mont Cervin, or Matterhorn, 14,837 ft. In ALPS [Celtic, Alp White Mountains], a name, with j this range are found the greatest glaciers of Europe; still no various affixes, given to many mountain ranges. It is, how- large stream has its source in the Pennine Alps, their waters , more particularly employed to designate that great group mingling with those of the Rhone and the Po, before acquiring of heights containing the highest peaks of Europe, culminat ing in Mont Blanc, and covering the greater part of Switzer land, and part of France, N. Italy, Bavaria, Austria, and Turkey, forming the central portion of the great mountain system of S. Europe, which, in a manner more or less con nected, extends from Cape Finisterre on the Atlantic to the Black Sea. Descriptively, the Alps may be said to originate any considerable volume. 5. The Helvetian, or Lepontine Alps [Latin, Alpes Helvetica:, or Lepontina:, the latter name being derived from Lepontii, the name of the ancient inhabitants of the country in which rise the Rhine, the Rhone, and the Tessin or Ticino], comprising 11 branches, include the heights between Monte Rosa and Monte St. Bernardino, a distance of about 50 m. They .ALPS 1 follow a general direction of S.W. to N.E., but E. of the Luckmanier, the mountains that surround the Val Blegno incline S., towards Monte St. Bernardino. This is the most considerable range of the whole system, with glaciers in extent only second to those of the Pennine range. Its branches cover all Switzerland W. of the Rhine ; the principal one being the Bernese Alps, forming the N. wall of the canton Valais, and equal in height to the main chain. Its highest peak is the Fiuster-Aar-Horn, 14,111 ft., besides which it includes the Jungfrau, Munch, and other lofty mountains. 6. The Rlietian Alps [Latin, Alpes Hhfeticce], with 14 branches, forming tha Alps of the Grisons, part of the Alps of Tyrol, and covering a portion of ancient Rhetia. They extend from Monte St. Bernardino, generally E.N.E., to the Dreyhernnspitz, or Pic des trois Souverains, about 145 m. The principal branch follows the course of the Inn, from its source to its mouth. In its W. part, N. of Bludentz, this branch is called Arlbcry and Vorarlbery ; and an offset from these mountains, covering the country between the Lech and Lake Constance, is called the Alps of Algau. This range has numerous glaciers ; its culminating peak is Monte Cristallo, 12,961 ft. high; and within its bounds rise the Iller, Lech, Inn, and Isar, tributaries of the Danube, and the Adda, O.^lio, and Adige. 7. The Noric Alps [Latin, Alpes Noricce, from Noricum, a Roman prov.], having 10 branches, and extending from the Dreyhernnspitz E. towards Hungary, culminating in the Gross-Gluckner, 12,776 ft. high. The loftiest branches tend N.E. to Vienna, which may be said to be the termination of their range, a distance of about 205 m. E. and N., how ever, it is further connected with the mountains of Galicia. The Noric Alps are composed of two main ranges ; the S. separating the valley of the Mur from that of the Drave, and forming part of the Styrian Alps ; the N. following the left bank of the Enns in its cotirse from W. to E. Below this river are the Cetische Gebirge, which join on to the Wienerwald, which terminate above Vienna in woodless hills, named, on account of their bareness, Kahlcnberg. All the streams flowing from the Noric Alps fall into the Danube ; those of the N. by the Salzach, Enns, and Trasen ; those of the E. by the Leitha and the Raab ; and those of the S. by the Drave. 8. The Carnian Alps [Latin, Alpes Carmcce, from the country of the ancient Garni S. of the Noric Alps] , comprising six branches, lying S. from the Noric and Rhetian Alps, and extending from the sources of the Drave to the Col de Tarvis, about 108 m. between Carinthia and Venetian Lombardy. Their highest peak is la Marmolata, 11,510 ft. high; from their N. slope flow the Aviso, an affluent of the Adige, and the Gail, a small affluent of the Drave, and from their S. slope the Brenta, Piave, and Tagliamento, to the Gulf of Venice. 9. The Julian Alps [Latin, Alpts Julice, from the name of the ancient town Forum Julii], comprising eight branches, and extending from the Col de Tarvis S.E. to Mont Kleck, near Zengg, in Croatia, a distance of about 142 m. They lie chiefly in Carniola, E. of Tarvis; the main range separates into two branches, bounding N. and S.W. the basin of the Save. From the Schneeberg, near Lake Zirknitz, the S.W. branch subdivides into two offsets, of which the one proceeds W. towards Fiume, and the other E. to the river Kulpa. The Julian Alps are remarkable for the number of their caverns ; among which are the celebrated caves at Adelsberg (which see}. The highest peak of the Julian Alps is Mont Terglou, 10,863 ft. high ; and their principal stream is the Save. 10. The Dinaric Alps [Latin, Alpes Dinaricoe}, extending from Mont Kleck to the river Narenta, a distance of about 161 m. They are chiefly in Croatia, Dalmatia, and Herzego vina; their culminating peak is Mont Dinara, 7458 ft. high; and their general direction N.W. to S.E., and in different parts of their course they receive the names of Kleck, Bitorai, and Wellebitsch, or Vellebitsch, which last is the Maritime branch, bordering the Canale della Morlacca. The following is a list of the principal heights of all the 10 divisions of the Alps, arranged according to their altitude : Names. Ranges. N. lat. E. ion. Feet. Mont Blanc Pennine 45 50 ... 662 15.732 Monte Rosa Pennine 45 56 ... 7 52. ...15,152 Mont Cerviu, or Matterhorn Pennine ... 7 43 H.83? ALPS Unnges. Pennine.. ..Helvetian Names. Ranges. N. lat Mont Comhin Kinster-Aar.llorn Mont Olan, N.E. the Va,i C , , , r ... Godemard ..... J LoUlan ** Le Geant Pennine Jungfran (The Virgin) Helvetian... 46 32 TheMoneh Helvetian... 46 33 Mont, Pelvoux de Vallouise Cottian Srhrivkhorn Helvetian (irimlfUvalder-Verscher Hoiner...Helvetiaii Mont Iseran (glaeier) Grecian... Peak \V. of Maurin Cottian.., Monte Cristallo Rhetian... Ortjer^the highest point of the ^ Khetial , Wetterhorn.!. . . . . . . . . . . .". . . . . . Gross-G lockncr Mount Trois KUions Aiguille de la Vanoise Tschernowand Aiguille de la Sassiere The Zebru, or Kouigs-gpitz... Monte delle Di^grazie E. Ion . 7 10 . 7 57 ... 7 69 ... .46 35 ... 8 5 .. .46 33... 8 3 .. .45 31 ... 7 16 .. .44 30 ... 6 44 .. .46 31 ...10 27 .. .46 28 ...10 32 .. Veet. ..14,125 ..14,111 ..13,819 ..13,800 ..13,718 ..13..I-.IS ..13,442 ..I3,38i; ^ 13,321 . 13,- ;:! .13,107 .12,961 ..12,853 .Helvetian 1 n-H.lierg La Marmolata The Greiner Mont Terglou ColdeLonget.... Monte Pelvo Col de Maurin.... Col (In Roburent.. Mont Dinara Mont Kleek .46 38 ... 8 6 12,842 .Noric 47 7 ...12 43 12,776 .Cottian 45 a ... 12,737 Grecian 45 24 ... 12,674 .Rhetian ... 12,412 .Grecian 45 30... 6 59 12,346 .Rhetian ... . . 12,271 Rhetian - ... 12,061 .Noric ... 12,028 .Carman 46 26 ...11 55 . . 11,510 .Noric ... 11,483 Julian 46 22 ...13 51 10,863 Maritime. ..-14 36... 6 52 10,345 Maritime... 14 30... 6 58 9,958 .Maritime... 44 30. 6 47 9,784 .Maritime... 44 24 ... 7 6 9,718 .Dinaric ... 7,458 .Diuarie ... - 0,926 Geology and Mines. Considered generally, the Alps will be found to belong to the granite, schistous, and calcareous formations ; that the main chain, or centre, is granitic ; that on the S. and E. slopes, the primitive rocks descend to the plain of Italy ; while to the W. and N. the mountains are almost all calcareous, as well in Provence and Dauphine as in Switzerland, the Tyrol, and Austria. The great mass N. of canton Valais, in canton Bern, is granitic, from the St. Gothard to the Lutschenthal ; but W. of that valley, the chain which is prolonged from N.E. to S.E., between the Wetter- horn and the Dent de Morcle, is composed of very high cal careous mountains, the horizontal strata of which rest on schist, gneiss, and granite. The S. flank of the Rhetian and Noric Alps exhibit only schistous and calcareous rocks ; and of this last formation, along with new red, or variegated sandstone, is constituted almost the whole mass of the Cai-nian and Julian Alps. The Carnian Alps likewise present to some extent rocks of igneous origin ; and basaltic mountains are to be met with in S. Tyrol, and near Verona, in two small ranges of hills called Monti Berici, and Monti Eugansei, lying S. of Vicenza. The mountains of Lower Provence, also, exhibit traces of ancient volcanic fires. Mining is not carried on to an extent proportionate to the magnitude of the mountain range. Iron and lead, however, are found in considerable abundance; Styria, Carinthia, and Carniola, yield annually about 30,000 tons of iron. The mines of Pesey and Macol, in Savoy, yield likewise a considerable quantity; and the Bleyberg (lead mountain) mine, in Carinthia, furnishes the purest lead in Europe. Rock salt is abundant towards the N. of the chain; and the salines of Bex in canton de Vaud, of Hall in Tyrol, of Hallein and Berchtesgaden in the vicinity of Salzburg, are of note. Mercury exists chiefly in the E. part; the richness of the mine of Idria, N.W. of Trieste, is well known. Besides those principal products, gold, silver, copper, zinc, alum, and coal, are wrought to some extent. Valleys. The great valleys of the Alps generally run in the direction of the main range, or nearly so. Some run transverse to it, the most remarkable of which is the valley of the Adige, running S.S.W. from the Brenner, and having a total length of 96 m. ; the other transverse valleys are much shorter. Among the longitudinal valleys none can compare with that of the Drave, which, supposing it to terminate to the E. of Warasdin, has a length of 193 m. The valley of the Inn, from Lake Sils to Kupfstein, is 133m. long; and the Swiss longitudinal valleys, such as those of the Upper Rhine, the Valteline, and Valais, have a length of 48 m. to 60 m. in their most direct line. Lalxs. Small lakes frequently occur in the Alps, at great altitudes, and of considerable depth. They are to be met with near the summit of many of the cols or passes, at the top of the water sheds, and form the natural sources of streams ; and sometimes sending their waters in opposite directions. Such ALPS 103 ALPS are the lakes on Mont Genevre, Cenis, Great St. Bernard, St. Gothard, Bernardino, &c. Climate. As might be expected, the climate of the Alps is exceedingly various. In the lower valleys of its S. slopes we meet with Italian warmth ; in elevated regions, such as the canton Bern, the temperature assimilates to that of Britain , while higher up, on the Alpine heights, the climate assumes an arctic character. In the lower valleys, the mean temper ature ranges from 50 to 60. Half way up the Alps it aver ages about 32 a height which, in the snowy regions, it never reaches. But even where the temperature is lowest, the solar radiation produced by the rocks and snow is often so great as to raise the photometer to 120, and even higher. The exhilarating and invigorating nature of the climate in the upper regions of the Alps, during summer, have been acknow ledged by all who have perambulated these romantic scenes. The freshness of the breeze, as it comes from the snowy peaks, tempered by the rays of a southern sun, enable the traveller, without weariness, to perform distances on foot that at home he would have shrunk from attempting. Notwithstanding, however, the invigorating nature of the climate, the inhabit ants of the higher valleys are afflicted with two grievous dis eases goitre and cretinism ; and so strongly is taste directed by external circumstances, that, in some localities, the former is reckoned a point of beauty in females, and appreciated in proportion to its excess. Botany and Zoology. In a climate so varied, the vegetable productions are in like manner necessarily equally so. In the same region, though of course at different altitudes, are to be met the vine, the walnut, and chestnut; and the Rhodo dendron ferrugineum, the Campanula barbata, the Silene acaulis, and Salix herbacea. But the varied vegetation of this region will be more clearly apprehended from the following list of heights attained in the Alps by different plants: Name Height nhovc Orange, Olive, and Fi<;.. Vine Chestnut, Wa Cherry Hazel.... Oak Elm, Ash 351(i* 3835 4155 -- Alder, Yew 4474 ft. Beech 4784 Scotch Fir 5103 Maple 5422 White Birch 5613 Siberian Ci-cl-ir (Piniw j G3g - cembra) ) * At this height cereals may be cultivated. To these trees succeed heaths, and rich pastures, called Alps, which extend to the snow line, 8000 ft. above the sea level. But this is not the upper limit of vegetation, for lichens are found on the highest rocks ; and Saussure, at the height of 11,382 ft. on Mont Blanc, and 11,509 ft. on Mont Cervin, or Matterhorn, gathered Aretia helvetica, Geum montanum, and Saxifraga bryoi des. At this great elevation are found two species of quadrupeds, the bouquetin or wild goat, and the chamois, which delight in heights inaccessible to man. The bouquetin, which has become very rare, scales t lie most elevated peaks, while the chamois is generally found rather lower, but is never seen in the plains. In summer, the high mountain pastures are covered with large flocks of cattle, sheep, and goats, which are, in winter, removed to a lower and warmer level. The marmot, and white, or Alpine hare, inhabit both the snowy and the woody regions. Lower down are found the mole, the wild cat, the fox, the lynx, the bear, and the wolf ; but the last two are now extremely rare. The vulture, eagle, and other birds of prey, frequent the rugged Alpine rocks, and the snowy ptarmigan seeks food and shelter among the diminutive plants that border upon the snow line. Other kinds of game, including the moorfowl, woodcock, and partridge, abound in their usual localities, from the upper limit of the wood to the more level and habitable parts below. Several kinds of water fowl frequent the higher lakes, where excellent trout and other fish are found ; but those situated at the greatest elevation are, from their low temperature, entirely destitute offish. Passes. The passes of the Alps, called by the French cols, that is, depressions, are the roads by which communication is effected between districts on opposite sides of the mountains ; and in no countries are these essential requisites to profitable industry so supremely important as in Alpine regions. The passes of the Alps may be divided into three classes: 1. Those practicable for wheeled carriages. 2. Those practicable for horses or mules. 3. Those suited only for foot passengers. Of the first class, by far the most frequented is the Mont Cenis, forming the principal route from France to Italy ; the Simplon, from Vallais into Piedmont; and the Spliigen and Bernardino, from the Orisons into Lombardy. The Simplon and Stelvio passes the latter in the Khetian Alps, leading from Tyrol into Lombardy are among the greatest triumphs of modem engineering. The former, which was constructed by command of Napoleon (1800-1805), at the joint expense of France and the then existing kingdom of Italy, is about 38 m. long, and averages 9 yards in width, the rise being only l inches per yard : it runs mostly between bold and almost per pendicular rocks, which have been tunnelled at different places, bridges having been also thrown across where chasms and precipices interrupt the continuity of passage. To give a notion of the colossal nature of the undertaking, it may be mentioned that the number of bridges, great and small, con structed for the passage of the road between Brieg and Seste, amounts to 611, in addition to the far more vast and costly constructions, as terraces of massive masonry, miles in length ; of 10 galleries, either cut out of the living rock, or built of solid stone ; and of 20 houses of refuge to shelter travellers and lodge the labourers constantly employed in taking care of the road. (Murray s Handbook.} While some of these galleries are of great extent, and, as that of Gondo, present to the traveller pictures of savage wildness and sublime grandeur, others are little more than simple archways of rock, forming highly picturesque features in the route. Of this class is the gallery of Isella, the last but one on the Italian THK GALLERY OF ISELLA. From Bucia -, Lettren sur la Suisse. side; near the village of the same name, 8 m. N.W. Domo d Orsola. The Stelvio, which is a military road constructed by the Austrian Government, and completed in 1824, is the highest pass in Europe practicable for carriages, being 9174 ft. above the sea, and is a very remarkable specimen of human industry and skill. The galleries, cut for many miles through the solid rock, along the margin of the Lake of Como; those higher up, built of massive masonry, strong enough to resist the fall of avalanches ; the long causeways carried over morasses; the bridges thrown across roaring torrents ; the long succession of zigzag terraces, carried up with the most gentle slope, but which, nevertheless, surmount one of the highest ridges in the Alps ; these, are works which, without exaggeration, deserve to be called stupendous. (Murray s Handbook.) This road, on which so much skill, labour, and treasure have been expended, is seldom passable except from June to October, i owing to the fearful ravages committed by storms and avnl- ALPS ALPS oncnea, wliien cause a large annual outlay for repairs. Of the second class, which is very numerous, may be named the Little and Groat St. Bernard, the Col dc Balme, the Grimsel, the Gcmmi, &c. Some of these are cut along ledges of rock having enormous cliffs above, and yawning gulfs beneath; or j they are in the form of rough stairs, as part of that of the Gemmi; to the unpractised eye apparently more suitable to be climbed by monkeys, than by four-footed animals. Such passes are always picturesque, and seldom dangerous, though those unaccustomed to them are at times apt to have their nerves severely tried when wending their way along the giddy brink of a huge precipice. Of this class of pass, the accompanying cut conveys a good idea. It is that over the Grimsel, in canton Bern, and one of the grandest, and most THE GRIMSEL PASS. from Barnard s Sketches in Switzerland. interesting passes over the Alps. Its summit is 8400 ft. above the sea. The third class, those that can be traversed only on foot, is still more numerous than either of the foregoing. Many of them are known only to the natives of the localities in which they exist ; are never to be traversed excepting in the summer season; and some are not practicable for years in succession. Those least frequented, and most difficult of access, appear to have been used principally by contraband traders, and by per sons flying from danger. Some of them rise far above the line of perpetual congelation, ascending the valleys of torrents, crossing dangerous ravines and snow-covered glaciers, rend ered dangerous by frequent crevasses, that is, large rents, some times of considerable width, and hundreds of feet in depth. Of these, the highest are the Col de Geant, at the head of the Mer de Glace, 11,172 ft.; and Mont Cervin, 11,096 ft. The following table exhibits the heights of the principal passes of the Alps. Those marked * are practicable for wheeled car riages, and those unmarked for mules or pedestrians only: Names. Ranges. Feet. *Simplon Helvetian 6578 Splfigcn Helvetian 6814 *St. Gothard Helvetian 6808 Names. Ranges. Feet. Col de Tcmle Maritime 6,160 Mont Genevre Cottian ... 6,476 Col de Fenestrcs Cottian ... 7,271 MontCeim Grecian... 6,775 Grimsel., Helvetian 8400 Little St. Bernard... Grecian... 7,192 Gemmi Helvetian 7160 Colde Ferret Pennine... 7,641 Bernardino.. ..Helvetian 7115 Col deBonhommc.... Pennine... 8,025 "Stelvio Rhetian 9174 ColdeG&int Pennine...ll,172 "Brenner Rhetian... 67f8 Great St. Bernard... .Pennine... 8.200 Chiavcmoa Rheti Mont Cervin Pennine...ll,096 Traucrn Noric U803 Col de la Sei;;ue Pennine... 8,078 AralancJies. The traveller in the Alps is frequently ex posed to dangers of no ordinary description. The electric currents, attracted and moved in every direction by the innum erable lofty peaks, which render the winds at once fickle and violent, the melting of the snow, or its accumulation upon declivities, or on the edge of precipices which do not allow of its resting, all contribute to the perils that beset him ; besides which, his progress is often interrupted by the tempests called tourmentes by the French, and gurcn by the Germans, and the still more destructive avalanche. The former arises suddenly and with great violence, often accompanied by thunder and lightning, and tossing the snow in eddying clouds around the traveller, blinding his eyes, irritating his skin, and compelling him to seek shelter. The avalanches [French, LarancJie* or Lavangcs; German, Lawine or Lauwine] sometimes accompany the tourmentes, to which, in that case, they owe their formation ; but they occur also at different seasons, un accompanied by tempests. They may, in general, be described as enormous masses of snow, which, detached by various causes from their original position, roll with tremendous noise and force over rock and precipice, down to the plains below, overwhelming man and beast, forest and dwelling, in one common destruction. A touch of the foot, or the slightest motion of the air, even that produced by the sound of a small bell, or other instrument, is often sufficient to set the avalanche in motion ; firearms are sometimes used to ascertain the dis tance or nearness of such danger. The most destructive are those which are composed of hardened snow, and which, rolling or sliding down from the mountains, carry all before them. From the frequent occurrence of avalanches, some parts of the Alps are entirely uninhabited : and in others, large patches of the tallest and strongest trees are left standing. I n order to arrest their progress, houses are built under the shelter of rocks, and all other available means adopted, to avoid the effects of these destructive visitants. Glaciers. These are to be met with in various Alpino regions, but those of the Alps have been more minutely in vestigated than any others. They consist of masses of snow- ice, formed in valleys above the line of perpetual congel ation, whose prolongations extend to those lower down, reaching frequently to the borders of cultivation. They present the appearance of a frozen torrent, frequently several miles in length, traversed by deep rents called crevasses, and are composed of snow melted by solar heat, and frozen into granular ice, constituting a compound of ice and water, more or less yielding, according to the state of wetness or infiltra tion. The upper part of the glacier, where the snow is in a transition state from a loose and powdery consistence to ice, is called neve in French, and^rn in German. Professor Forbes says, a glacier is an imperfect fluid, or viscous body, which is urged down slopes of a certain inclination by the mutual pres sure of its parts. Glaciers are consequently subject to the laws of fluids, and, therefore, by no means stationary, except probably during winter, but continually moving ; their rate of progression during summer, as has been ascertained by observation on the Mer de Glace, being 18-24 inches in 24 hours ; though possibly their ratio of advance may vary, some of them reposing on almost horizontal surfaces, while others are inclined at a vnry considerable angle. On their surface they bear large quantities of stones, some of them of enormous size, brought down from the mountain recesses where the glaciers originate. These heaps are ultimately deposited at the foot of the glacier, and form terminal moraines, presenting the geologist with excellent materials for studying the struc ture of the mountains whence they have been derived. The term moraine is likewise applied to the lines of stones and mud found on the surface, caused by the union of two or moreglaciei>, which frequently happens, from several glacier-filled valleys converging into one. In such cases they are called lateral or central moraines, according to their position. In thick ness, glaciers vary from a few feet to several hundreds. In mild seasons their bulk is much reduced in size, and in cold seasons they are much enlarged. In the winter of 1818-19, some Swiss glaciers increased so greatly, and came so far down into the lower valleys, as to sweep away whole villages. During the heat of summer their upper surface is melted, and the waters tumble down the crevasses and mingle with waters below, formed by the melting of the under-surface glacier, in consequence of the higher temperature of the earth on which it rests. These accumulated waters flow down to the lower end of the glacier, and issue from a natural arch, frequently of considerable height, formed in the ice, in a muddy stream, as if coloured with pipeclay, arising from the quantity of pounded granite or limestone held in mechanical solution ; for, as the enormous mass of ice rubs its way down the valley, it grinds to powder stones beneath it and at its sides, and thus discolours the waters that flow from it. Such an arch, vary ing in size according to the season of the year, may be seen in the Glacier des Bois, the termination of the Mer de Glace, in the valley of Chamouni, from which arch flows the Arveyron, the source of the Arvc, whose muddy stream pollutes the ALPS (SWABIAX) 105 AL-SAL1H limpid blue waters of the Rhone, into which it falls below Geneva. Of the numerous glaciers interspersed throughout the Alpine valleys, la Mer de Glace is at once the most exten sive, picturesque, and easily accessible. It terminates in the Glacier des Bois, in the valley of Chamouni, a little way E. of the Prieure, and of Mont .Blanc. This great ice river has near its origin two divided streams, derived from different sources. The W. branch, denominated the Glacier du Geant or du Tacul, has its rise in a vast basin immediately to the E. of Mont Blanc, confined between the upper ridge of the Alps, extending to the Col de Geant 011 the S., and the chain of Aiguilles of Chamouni on the N., and terminating with that of the Charmoz, round whose E. foot the Mer de Glace sweeps. The other branch, called the Glacier de Lechaud, has its origin at the foot of la Grande Jorasse, one of the highest mountains of the chain which separates the Val Ferret from that of Chamouni. This glacier is smaller than its neigh bour, although it is swelled, before their junction, by the tributary ice of the Glacier du Talefre, which falls in upon its right bank from a detached basin, encircled by inaccessible pinnacles of rock, in whose centre is the spot called the Jardin, now so frequently visited. (Forbes Alps.) This glacier is 7 m. in length, direct distance, and seldom exceeds two-thirds of a mile in breadth, but is generally less. Its last slope, into the valley of Chamouni, has a vertical height of 1800 ft. ; and, in appearance, it is as if an enormous cataract or rapid had suddenly been congealed. The accompanying view will serve to convey a distinct idea of the grandeur and barren magnifi cence of the scene presented by this glacier. The combination of ice, pile upon pile, as it rises up the valley, green pastures, beautiful flower plants, lofty snowy peaks, and enormous bare monoliths with perpendicular sides many thousand ft. high, forms one of the most striking natural pictures the eye can vest upon. The cavern of the chapeau from which the view is taken is near the lower end of the Glacier des Bois, which is the part of the glacier here shown. In the valleys above the glaciers, deep lakes are sometimes formed, which, at times bursting their barriers, rush down the gorges and lower val leys with destructive fury. For an account of a bursting, or debacle, of this kind, see BAGNES (VAL DE). (Orographie de V Europe; Forbes Travels through tlie Alps of Savoy ; Murray s Handbook; Private Notes.) ALPS (SWABIAN). See ALB. ALPUENTE, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 48 m. N.W. from Valencia, between the mountains del Castillo and San Cristobal. It is very irregular, from the inequality of the ground on which it stands ; but the streets are for the most part well constructed, paved, and clean. It has a small plaza, a townhall, prison, and an endowed school ; a parish church, hospital, cemetery, and the ruins of an old Roman castle. The troops of Don Carles burnt a considerable part of the VOL. I. place, and utterly demolished its old walls ; they, however, subsequently restored part of its fortifications, though very slightly. Pop. 2356. ALPUJ ARRAS, a mountain district, Spain, in Andalusia, extending about 50 m. W. to E., nearly parallel to the coast of the Mediterranean. From Motril to Almeria the mountains ramify N. to S. about 35 m. from the great chain of the sierra Nevada to the coast, and form the subordinate ranges of the sierras Bermeja, de Gador, &c., whose highest peaks, about 6575 ft. high, are covered with snow three-fourths of the year. These mountains in general are rugged and bare, and, exceptiag some valleys, such as that of Andarax, little susceptible of cultivation, though in some parts abounding with vines, olives, and other fruits; and in others, clothed with forests of oak, beech, pine, and other hardy trees. The district is watered by the Almeria, Adra, and numerous smaller streams. Some wheat, barley, rye, hemp, &c., are grown; and a few horned cattle, sheep, goats, and mules, are reared. Here also are mines of various metals, now little wrought, except the lead mines of the sierra de Gador, and the quarries yielding alabaster, which is of the finest quality. (Madoz, Diccio. de Espana.) ALRESFORD, a market tn., and name also of two pars. England, co. Hants (Southampton). The town is situated on the main road between London and Winchester, 55 rn. S.W. the former, and? m. N.E. the latter. The river Itchin passes at a short distance to the W. ; and close by, in the same direction, is a fine sheet of water called Alresford Pond, covering about 200 ac., formed in the reign of King John, with the view of improving the navigation of the river. The trade of the town has much fallen off from what it was formerly, the only manufacture now remaining being that of linseys. Alresford has been a borough and market town from a very remote period, and at one time sent a member to the House of Commons, its popula tion being then much greater than it is now. The town is governed by a bailiff and eight burgesses ; and petty sessions are held here by the county magistrates. Three fairs annually, chiefly for sheep. The town was nearly destroyed by fire three times ; first m 1 690, again in 1710, and athird time in 1736. The parishes are called, respective ly, Old Alresford, and New Aires- ford. The former is in the bun. of Fawley, and contains 3660 ac., and 502 of a pop.; the latter, in which the town is situated, is in Alton division, and contains 1250 From LaHuisseetses Lacs, ac. ; pop. 1578. Total pop. ill 1841, of the two parishes and town 2088. ALRESFORD is also the name of a par. in co. Essex, hun. Tendring; area, 1640 ac. Pop. in 1841, 289. (Corre spondent in Alresford.) ALREWAS, a par. England, co. Stafford; area, 4350 ac. ; 5 m. N E. by N. Litchfield. Pop. in 1841, 1658. ALROE, anisl. Denmark, at the mouth of Horsens-fiord ; lat. 55 50 N. ; Ion. 10 5 E. It is separated from the main land by a fordable channel, and is 3 m. long and 2 broad. It contains a village called Alroe-By, which, with the district around, forms the Danish parish of the same name. Pop. 300. ALSENO, a small tn. and com. Italy, duchy of Parma, 18 m. E.S.E. Fiacenza. The inhabitants are agriculturists; the productions grain, hay, and timber; wine and oil. Pop., tn. and com. 4175. ALSACE [German, Elsass; Latin, Alsatia, Alesatia, or Ehsatia], a former prov. of France, now forming thedeps. of the Upper and Lower Rhine. AL-SALIH, a small tn. on the S. coast of Arabia, 40 m. N.E. by E. Aden, and about 2 m. from the sea; lat. 13 12 N.; Ion. 45 30 E. It consists of about 200 houses, some of which are of stone. The country around is well watered and cultivated. Pop. about 500. 14 ALSEN 106 ALTAI ALSEN, an isl. Denmark, duchy of Schleswig, situated on the Little Belt, and separated from the coast by a narrow channel named Als-smul; length, 20m.; breadth, from 5 to 7 m. ; lat. 54 56 N. ; Ion. 9 52 E. It contains several villages, and two considerable towns, Somlerborg and Norborg, the former of which lias a good harbour, with a pop. of 3000. It is one of the finest islands in the Baltic, being diversified with forests, lakes, well-cultivated iields, and orchards. Fish is abundant in the lakes, some of which, particularly the Nordburger See, the Bund See, and the Wester See, are of considerable extent. The produce of the soil consists of wheat, rye, potatoes, rape, flax, and anise seed, the last of which is much used in Denmark as seasoning. A great part of Alsen belongs to the Duke of Augustenborg, whose seat, a castellated building, in modern style, stands near the centre of the island, on the wooded bank of a small arm of the Augustenborg-fiord. Sonderborg has the remains of an old castle; in one of the towers of which Christian II., of Den mark and Norway, was confined from 1532 to 1549. Pop. of isl. 22,500. (Baggesen s Ddnische Stoat.) ALSFELD, a tn. Hessen- Darmstadt, prov. Upper Hesse, on the left bank of the Schwalm, 25 m. N.W. Fulda, 31 m. N.E. Giessen ; lat. 50 46 N. ; Ion. 9 15 E. It is one of (he oldest towns in Hesscu, is walled, and has five churches, and a grammar school. Linen is manufactured to a trifling extent, but the staple manufacture is woollen. There are also six dye works, three tobacco factories, several bleachfields, and a large distillery. Pop. 3700. The district of ALS FELD, lying along the chain of the Vogel, has rich cultivated fields. It contains 28 parishes, and has a pop. of 10,100, chiefly employed in weaving linen and other fabrics. ALSII LOCH, an arm of the sea in co. Eoss, Scotland ; lat. 57 17 N. ; Ion. 5 34 W. It forms the common en trance to Loch Duich and Loch Loung ; the former is well sheltered, and capable of holding a great number of vessels. Loch Loung is a long and narrow inlet, the entrance to which is shallow, with about 6 ft. at low water. ALSLEBEN, a walled tn. Prussian Saxony, gov. Merse- burg, on the left bank of the Saal, 15 m. N.N.E. Eisleben ; lat. 51 44 N. ; Ion. 11 43 E. The inhabitants live by agriculture, the rearing of cattle, and commerce. A good deal of caraway seed is raised in gardens. It has an hospital, a church, and a castle, belonging to the Duke of Anhalt Dessau. Pop. 1850. ALSTAHOUG, a vil. Norway, prov. Nordland, on the S. shore of the Island of Alsten, 186 m. N.N.E. Trondheim. It is the seat of the Bishop of Nordland and Finmarken. ALSTEN, an isl. Norway, prov. Nordland. The N. central point is in lat. 66 N. ; Ion. 13 E. The island is mountainous ; its most remarkable peaks being the Seven Sisters, one of which attains an elevation of 4379 ft. On this island is the village of Alstahoug. ALSTER, a river, Denmark, prov. Holstein, rising in a moorish country about 20 m. N. Hamburg. It takes a S. course, passes through the city of Hamburg, after forming the basin of the Binnen Alster, and falls through dock gates into the Elbe. ALSTON, or ALSTON Moon. See ALDSTONE. ALSTONEFIELD, a par. England, co. Stafford; area, 21,860 ac. ; on the river Dove. It has several charities, lead, copper, and coal mines. Pop. in 1841, 4701. ALTAI [more correctly Alta-yin-ula, golden mountain], i.s the name of a group of mountains projecting into the plains of Siberia, from the N.W. angle of the elevated table land of Central Asia, and lying between the sources of the Irtish on the W., and the Yenisei on the E. The literal appropriate ness of the name borne by a group of mountains so distin guished at the present day for its mineral riches, is probaWy but accidental. The country in question was formerly the seat of the Mongolian tribe called the Golden Horde (orda, a tent), and it is consonant with their usages to suppose that they dignified, with the title of golden, the residence of their chief, or the locality in which he fixed his camp; and that the name Alta-yin-ula, or golden mountain (Alta signifies gold in Mongolian), which denoted, at first, only the court or royal residence, came at length to be applied to the whole territory of the tribe. At the present day the name Altai is given, exclusively, both by natives and Russian settlers, to the country actually occupied by the Kalmuks, and is thus con fined, in its application, within comparatively narrow bounds. European geographers, on the other hand, have hitherto used it as a general denomination for a supposed chain of moun tains extending continuously from the upper waters of the Irtish W. to Lake Baikal ; and some have even carried the generalization so far as to include, under the same name, the several mountain chains the Stanovoi, Khrebet, Aldan, &c., which stretch N.E. from Lake Baikal to the Sea of Okhotsk. But, in reality, the broad belt of mountainous country in terposed between the table land of Central Asia and the low plains of Siberia, is broken into numerous ranges of mountains, bearing different names, forming independent groups, and rarely striking from W. to E. The Altai mountains, taken according to the widest accep tation of the name at the present day, extend through 6^ degrees of latitude, viz., from the vicinity of Tomsk, at the N. foot of the Alatou, or from lat. 56 N. to the neighbour hood of Bukhtarminsk, at the confluence of the Bukhtarma and Irtish, in lat. 49 30 N. ; and through 7 degrees of lon gitude, from the mountains of Kolyvan in the W., Ion. 82 E., to the Sayan chain in the E. The several ranges embraced within these limits are, proceeding from N. to S., and from W. to E., as follows : The Alatou, winding very irregularly from N.W. to S.E., and sending down copious streams both to the Obe and the Yenisei ; the chain of Salai r, separated from the Alatou by the valleys of the Tome and the Inya ; to the S. and W. of these mountains lies the wide valley of the Obe; beyond which, S., we find the following Alpine ranges, viz., the Bashalatsk, Chechuliha, Tegeretsk, and Koly van mountains, all striking nearly N.W. and S.E. ; then the Alps of Korgone, Koksu, Ubinsk, Turgusune, Ulbinsk ; and bordering, on the left bank of the Katunya, the Alps of Ursul and Terektinsk ; on the right bank, the chains of Kholsune, Katunya, and Arghyte ; S. of these, the Shchebenuha chain, above the right bank of the Bukhtarma, presents, to the N., a concave outline prolonged towards the N.E., and this direction of .the mountain chains becomes more frequent on the E. of the Katunya; the Saljar, Kurai, and Toboshok Alps still stretch from N.W. to S.E., but the Karagai, and Mungun-tai ga chains, and part of the Sayan, extend in a S. W. to N.E. direction. The mountainous region thus described occupies an area of about 40,000 geo. sq. m., which is nearly equal to that of England ; is all comprised in the government of Tomsk, with the exception of the valley of the Abakan, towards the N.E., which belongs to the government of Yeniseisk. The S.W. slopes of the Ubinsk, Ulbinsk, and Turgusune ranges, pom- some streams into the Irtish; while the N.E. face of the Alatou range contributes to swell the Yenisei ; but, with these few exceptions, the waters of this extensive region, the rivers of which are large as well as numerous, all flow into the main branch of the Obe. The line of demarcation between the Rus sian and Chinese empires crosses the Irtysh about 7 m. N. of the 49th parallel of lat. ; runs in an E.N.E. direction along the Narym, which joins that river, and then passes to the Bukh tarma, which it follows to its sources; it turns N.E. and N.N.E. through the heights of Karagai and Mungun-tai ga, and follows the Sayan chain N.W. and N.E., till it reaches the mountains named Shabina Dabahan. In the remainder of its course E., this boundary line passes for the most part along the N. side of the mountainous region ; so that the Altai mountains are broadly distinguished from the other moun tainous groups which follow them on the E., by the circum stance that, while the former are well known, the latter form a terra incognita to European geographers. The Altai group has been described by a geological writer of great authority, as a vast promontory, connected on the S. with the mainland of primitive rocks, and surrounded on the other three sides by an ocean of diluvial deposits. This opinion requires some modification, perhaps, as far as regards the E. district of the Altai, of which only the N. portion presents to view diluvial formations. The Neptunian rocks belong chiefly to the classes which lie furthest apart in the geognostic series, namely, palaeozoic and diluvial. The strati fied rocks, which, from the absence of fossil remains, cannot be easily classified, form the largest portion of the Altai . Clay slate, and chlorite slate, passing, in the neighbourhood of granite, into mica slate, are the prevailing rocks in the elevated districts. Through these the plutonian rocks, gran- ALTAI 107 ALTAI ite, gneiss, syenite, &c., have forced their way, heaving up the clay slate in many instances, so that its strata stands in a vertical position. Among these eruptive rocks must be mentioned porphyry and greenstone. Limestone holds the next rank in respect to extent; though, like the clay slate, it is seldom found unaltered by the influence of plutonic rocks ; but, from its appearance in some places where it has under gone least metamorphosis, and is characterized by containing Calamopora poliimorpUa, geologists think it likely that the limestones of this region, altered as they now are by fire, were originally of the devonian system. The rocks belong ing to this system are easily recognized by their organic remains. In the Altai they lie in three districts, or zones, namely, Smeyef (an abridged form of Smei nogorsk), Tomsk, and the Yenisei. The carboniferous limestones, also, are widely distributed in the Altai , though the coal formation itself has not yet been discovered within the mountains. The sandstones accompanying them are particularly rich in pal;r- ontologic treasures, containing, among other things, the trunks of Araucarites, apparently of the same spec es as the Arau- cariae which now flourish in New Zealand and Norfolk Island. The diluvial formation encompasses the Altai , as has been already stated, nearly on three sides. In this formation, and in the rocks of the devonian and Silurian systems, lies nearly all the mineral wealth of this favoured region. The physiognomy of the Altai mountains in their \V. and S. divisions, is generally grand and interesting. The river?, which are very numerous, flow rapidly with full streams ; and the various forms of the stratified and metamorphosed rocks of the limestones, porphyry, and granite, with the Bielki (white or snowy mountains) in the distance, lend to the scene the charm of perpetual novelty. The banks of the Kattmya, in the heart of the mountains, present a landscape of the most impressive character ; an immense wall of rock extending from W. to E., supports fields of perpetual snow and glaciers, from the midst of which rise numerous rocky points, pyramids, and truncated cones; while in the distance are seen the two tower ing peaks named the Pillars of the Katunya. These peaks, which are supposed to be the highest summits of the Altai mountains, stand on :\ wide and elevated table land, lying between the sources of the Katunya, the Bielaya (falling into the Chuya), and the Berell, which joins the Bukhtarma. Glaciers, spreading from the bases of the Bielukha, or snowy cones, supply the fountains of these three rivers. The absolute height of the Pillars has been estimated, by Dr. Gebler, at 11,723 ft., or, by Tchihatcheff, at 12,790 ft. To the E. of these pillars, the peaks of Chenunc-ouzoune and ^Arhhite increase in number, and present forms still more deeply serrated. In the course of all my long wanderings, I do not remember ever to have admired a scene more grand or more magnificent. (Tchihatcheff.) The accompanying view of these mountains is taken from the N. summit of the plateau of Saldjar, a branch of the chain of the same name. In the E. part of the Altai , where the clay slate predominates, the aspect of the country is more monotonous ; the mountains lose all variety of form, and assume the character of long ridges. It is on these mountains of slaty structure that the most disagreeable characteristic of the Altai is chiefly developed, namely, the great extent of deep bog and morass, through which a horse crossing the hills must wade belly-deep even in the middle of summer, and not without the danger of breaking his legs, if he gets entangled in the boughs of the trees which lie buried beneath. The principal heights of the Altai are situated, as might be supposed, at the points of intersection of the ranges which strike in different directions. Few of them have, however, been as yet measured, and the following list of points, the elevation of which has been de termined by barometrical observation, may be presumed to con tain the most accessible summits, rather than the highest : The Kreuzberg (cross moiuita the foot of the cross Crest of the Koksun Alps in the Ulhinsk range), at ) Sources of the little Koksim ..................................... 6048 Crest between the valleys of the little Koksun and Tatarka 6708 Summit above tlie source of tlic Charysli ...................... 7633 Source of the river Kara-pi ....................................... 5834 Plateau of the Korgone, between the sources of the Inya ) --.or, andKorovikha....... .J 7130 Shchebennkha, 10 m. from Fykalka ............................. 8050 Ivanofskm Bielok, near Kyderskoi ............................... 7191 Kholsun, nearthe source of the Hlack Uba ................... 8538 Peak of Aigulak ...................................................... 7784 Steppe of Kurai, above the Cliuya ............................... 5966 Chegan Alps (1000 ft., perhaps/beiow the summit) ......... 9064 area covered by perpetual snow in the Altai is very the height Th considerable ; but the height of the snow line, which is very irregular, does not appear to have been yet ascertained for any locality by exact observation. It is supposed to be relatively high ; owing, probably, to the great mass of the high land and the contiguity of the mountains, as well as to the peculiar condition of the atmosphere ; and, in the S. and more elevated portion of the Altai , its general elevation does not perhaps fall much short of 8000 ft. The glaciers of the same region occupy a large extent, but they never descend ALTAI 108 ALT AM UK A far below the snow line ; and it is a remarkable fact, that though in the granitic districts of the Altai , valleys are to be found strewed over with blocks of granite, which in some places occur in great numbers, even on the crests of the mountains, yet boulders, properly so called the distribution of which is generally ascribed to the agency of glaciers are never met with cither in the Alpine regions of the Altai, or the plains surrounding them. This fact strikes forcibly the traveller from the Russian shores of the Baltic, where so wide an area is overspread with boulders of Finnland or Scandi navian granite. The limited extent and physical agency of glaciers in the Altai may be assigned, with much probability, to two causes 1. The relative dryness of the air; for if the climate of Barnoul, on the river Obe (lat. 52 27 N.), be com pared with that of St. Gothard on the Swiss Alps, it will be found that snow falls at the former place but 66 days in the year, and at the latter 1 16. 2. The winter is in the Altai the dry season ; most of the snow falls during the summer months, and little after November. These climatic conditions explain why the line of perpetual snow lies high, and why there is so little accumulation of glacier ice. The stern winter of the high lands is kept effectually within bounds by the heat of a short summer. The frost does not disappear till the middle of Slay ; and sledge travelling, on the newly-fallen snow, frequently begins in the middle of September. In the moun tains, the ice of the lakes may be crossed on horseback in the middle of June. But the prevalence of cold indicated by these circumstances, is counterbalanced by the general serenity of the atmosphere ; and the town of Fykalka, on the S. slope of the Shchebenukha range, near the Bukhtarma, standing at a height of 4300 ft. above the sea, is yet inhabited all the year round ; nay, the fields adjacent to, and even above it, are cultivated with success, yielding barley, rye, oats, millet, and summer wheat, besides garden vegetables. The vegetation of the Altai is varied and abundant, and often vigorous. The local Flora, to which ample justice has been done by the labours of Drs. Ledebour and Bunge, assumes the Asiatic character ; the European type prevailing ] from the Ural mountains to the banks of the Irtish. The mountain forests are composed of birch, alder, aspen, acacia, willow, larch, fir, and the Siberian stone pine (Pimis cembni). This last tree flourishes at an absolute height of nearly 7000 ft.; and at an elevation of 6000 ft., where the snow rarely disappears before the end of May, it attains a great size, often measuring 14 ft. in circumference. The highest limit of the birch is about 4800 ft.; the dwarf willows, and other under wood, cease totally about 1000 ft. higher. The Altai mountains, and the adjoining ranges to the E., are the native home of the wild sheep (Ovis argali), which occupies the crags and most inaccessible rocky heights, leaving the hill sides and elevated valleys to several kinds of deer, CLTVUS elaplnis, C. alces, C. pi/yargus, &c. A marmot, pe culiar to these regions, abounds in the vicinity of the snow. These animals are preyed on by the glutton and the bear. The royal tiger prowls through the steppes on the S., and haunts particularly the reedy shores of Lake Balkhash ; it is not unlikely, therefore, that his predatory incursions some times extend into the Altai . It is related by Tchihatcheff, in the interesting and instruc tive account of his journey through the Altai", in 1841 , that he found, near the sources of the Chuya, and in some other elevated districts, extensive tracts covered with the skulls, horns, or antlers, and other remains of the argali, elk, and deer of various kinds. Sometimes whole skeletons lay exposed ; but more generally they were at least partially buried, only the skull and antlers rising above ground, and frequently the latter alone protruded, slowly gathering little mounds about them, by arresting the loose drift. Here, then, was to be seen, in course of formation, the growing monuments of future palaeontology. The Kalmuks, when questioned respecting these appearances, ascribed them to the increasing severity of the winter, the destructive effects of which, they said, had been felt by the deer and argali for some years. In like manner, Dr. Ledebour states that he often saw in the Altai , above the present limits of arborescent vegetation, withered trunks and other incontestable proofs that trees had once flourished higher up. But notwithstanding all this, how are we to believe that a considerable change is taking place in the climate of the AltaT mountains, destroying life, and narrowing the limits of vegetation, without being perceptible in the adjoining inhabited towns, or depressing the thermometer, or manifesting itself otherwise than by merely local effects ? As to the limit of arborescent vegetation, may it not be liable to periodical changes, owing to the exhaustion of the ground ? In thick woods, when trees die, they are soon replaced by other trees of a different species ; but on the borders of veget ation where few species will grow, the chance of a rapid succession is proportionally diminished. With respect to the destruction of the deer, it appears to us that an adequate and very probable explanation of it may be found in the increase of peat bog, and that inordinate extension of morass and quagmire, which all travellers in that region describe as its most annoying feature. Nearly all the destroyed deer seen by Tchihatcheff were sunk, their heads excepted, in a morass. These animals are confined by their habits to certain regions. If they venture into the low lands, they are attacked by flies and mosquitoes, and driven back to their haunts in the neigh bourhood of the snows. But there they find cold, inhospitable sloughs, continually encroaching on their domains, depriving them of pasture, and at last engulfing them. It is obvious that the growth of peat makes a change in the surface of the ground, which is capable also of destroying trees. The Altai mountains owe their reputation and importance chiefly to their mineral treasures rich silver, copper, and iron ores to which gold has been recently added. It was in 1725 that Nikiti Demidoff first ouened a silver mine in this region, at Kolyvan. A few years later, the Government took the business off his hands, and Schlangenberg [in Russian, Smeinogorsk a name now abridged into Smeyef] became the centre of operations. This branch of industry has been wonderfully developed in the Altai ; but we cannot, in this place, do more than indicate the towns in which the metal- lurgic operations are chiefly carried on; these are Barnoul, Smeyef, Salairsk, Ustkamenogorsk, Sernipolatinsk, Riddersk, and Syriinovsk, which last possesses, at present, the richest silver mines of the Altai . The valuable ores are all found in the devonian system, or in the carboniferous limestone, and always in the vicinity of porphyry or greenstone. The gold occurs lower down, in the diluvial strata, associated with remains of the mammoth and rhinoceros, and generally in the vicinity of dioritic rocks ; taken collectively, it belongs to the plains; yet, in consequence of the investigations of Tchihatcheff, an expedition was sent, in 1843, to look for gold in the granitic; district in the heart of the Altai , near the sources of the Semia, which joins the Katunya ; and gold was indeed found in some of the places indicated, but not in sufficient quantity to encourage the prosecution of the search. A variety of por phyry, commonly styled jasper, which is formed in the lathe into handsome vases, and takes a fine polish, may be enumer ated among the valuable minerals of the Altai*. The Kalmuks inhabiting the Altai are extremely weak, poor, and inoffensive. They are distinguished by the Russians into obedient (i.e., Russian subjects), and double-taxed, or paying tribute to China as well as to Russia, though living beyond the Chinese frontiers. They are governed by their Zaizanes, or native chiefs, the Russians never interfering with them, except to collect the yasak, or tribute of furs. (Tchihatcheff, Voyage dans I Altai Oriental; Ledebour, Altai Jleise; Rose, Reise in Altai; Humboldt, Asie Cent-rale.) ALTAM1RA, a tn. Mexico, state Tamaulipas, on the N. bank of a lake formed at the mouth of the Tampico or Panuco river ; 10 m. N.W. Tampico. The town consists of a few tolerable houses in a square, a church, and a number of thatched cottages. Its vicinity to swamps and lagoons ren ders it unhealthy, bilious fevers being very prevalent. ALT AMUlt A , a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Bari, at the foot of the Apennines, 1 19 m. E. Naples, and 29 m. S.W. Bari. It is one of the most beautiful towns in the province, surrounded by walls, and adorned by several elegant structures; the prin cipal of which is its cathedral, a magnificent building founded by Frederick II. It contains, besides, an hospital and a college, both founded by King Charles of Bourbon. It was sacked by the royalists in 1799. A number of ancient Grecian vases, of exquisite workmanship, and other antiqui ties, have been dug up in the neighbourhood, corroborative of the opinion that it is built on, or near, the site of the ancient Lapazia. It is the residence of a royal governor. The country around is fertile, and abounds in rich pastures. The ALTAVILLA 109 ALTENBURG vino, and olive are the chief productions of the soil. Pop. 14,949. ALTAVILLA. 1, A tn. Naples, prov. Principato Citra, district of, and 9 m. S. from Campagna, situated on a hill in a healthy locality. It was founded by the Normans. Becom ing afterwards a sanctuary for the insurgent subjects of Frederick II., that monarch caused it to be destroyed. It was subsequently rebuilt by the inhabitants. Pop. 3684. 2, A tn. prov. Principato Ultra, district of, and 7 in. N. from Avellino. Pop. 2956. ALTCAK, a par. England, co. Lancaster; area, 3580 ac. ; intersected by the river Alt. Pop. in 1841, 490. ALTDAMM, or DAMM, a fortified city, Prussia, prov. Pomerania, gov. of, and 4 m. E.S.E. from Stettin; situated at the point where the river Plb ne flows into the Lake Damm ; lat. 53 24 N. ; Ion. 14 41 E. It has two suburbs, a church, two schools, an hospital, a poor s house, and manufactures of cloth and cotton stuffs; but agriculture, the rearing of cattle, and fishing, form the chief employments. Pop. 2419. ALTDORF, or ALTORF [Old village], the name of several towns and villages: 1, A tn. Switzerland, cap. can. Uri, near the Lake of Luzern, and 21 in. S.E. from the town of that name. It is beautifully situated in the midst of gardens and orchards, at the termination of the great route over the St. Gothard, on a plain intersected by the mountain streams Schachenbach and Reuss, 1483 ft. above the sea level, and is well built and clean ; has a townhouse, church, gymnasium, and school ; and in the middle of the town an ornamental fountain, erected 1567. It derives its chief interest from its association with the Swiss patriot William Tell, whose mem orable exploit of splitting an apple on his son s head with an arrow, is said to have been performed here. An old tou*er, ornamented with rude paintings of Tell and the Austrian tyrant Gesner, stands near the spot. Tell is alleged to have been born in the neighbouring village of Biirglen, which is regarded as the cradle of Swiss liberty. The town was nearly destroyed by fire in 1799. Pop. 1903. 2, A small tn. Bavaria, on the river Schwarzach, in a beautiful and fertile country, 13 m. E.S.E. Nuremberg. It has an old palace, several breweries, and a considerable manufacture of wooden toys of all kinds, exported in large quantities, and wood char coal. Altdorfwasof some importance as early as the 13th century; was once the seat of a university, which, however, merged in that of Erlangen in 1806, and has still a normal seminary for Protestant teachers. Pop. 2700. 3, A tn. Wiirtembcrg, circle Danube, 2 m. N.N.E. Ravensburg, having manufactures of straw chairs. At a short distance is the castle of Weingarten, formerly a celebrated abbey of Bene dictines. Pop. 2407 (R. catholics). -4, A vil. grand duchy of Baden, in a fertile district, on the high road from Offenburg to Freiburg. It has a fine palace, with a good library, pos sessing a collection of coins and valuable MSS. It has also two breweries, a distillery, and a vinegar work. A good many cattle are reared, and in the neighbourhood some wine is made, and a great deal of chicory grown. Pop., chiefly K. catholics, 1478. ALTDORF is likewise the name of numer ous other localities, all unimportant. ALTE, or ALTA, a vil. Portugal, prov. Algarve, N. from Louie, in a basin-like valley, on the border of a mountain ridge. Its inhabitants are very poor, and subsist chiefly by mining, making charcoal, and gathering and manufacturing esparto. Its only importance is derived from the rich copper mines, about 2 m. S.W. from it. These have only recently been opened ; they do not require to be wrought to any great depth, and the water which accumulates in the diggings is easily carried off. The ore is rich, plentiful, and easily obtained. (Willkomm s Zwei Juhre in Spanien nnd Par- tugal.) ALTEA, a maritime tn. Spain, in Valencia, prov. of, and 30m. N.E. from Alicante, on the Mediterranean Sea; lat. 38 37 N. ; Ion. 3 W. ; at the head of a bay, and built on a rising ground, on the r. bank of the Alga, overlooked by an old fortress. It is cheerful-looking; has spacious but steep streets, a church, Latin and other schools, and a town- hall. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in tillage, but also in manufacturing soap, linen fabrics, ropes, and gypsum. In the vicinity, grain, fruits, and vegetables, are grown ; and pigs, sheep, goats, and mules, are reared. About 300 of the inhab itants arc engaged in seafaring. Pop. 5502. (Madoz.) ALTEN, a river, Norway, prov. Finmarken, rising in two sources S. from Kautokeino, in the mountains that separate Finmarken from Lapland. It flows N., and falls into the Altenfiord at Altengaard, after a course of about 50 in. ALTEN, or ALTENGAARD, a small tn. Norway, prov. Finmarken, on the river Alten, at its embouchure into the Altenfiord; lat. 69 55 N. ; Ion. 23 4 23" E. (L.) It is said to be the most N. point of the globe where cultivation is attempted; the produce is potatoes and barley. Two distinct lines of upraised ancient sea coast, one above the other, are distinguishable here. They are not parallel, and both of them imply, that within a distance of 50 m., a considerable slope can be detected, in such a direction as to show that the ancient shores have undergone a greater amount of upheaval in proportion as we advance inland. (Quar. Jour. Geol. Soc., No. IV. p. 534.) ALTENA, a tn. Prussia, cap. circle of same name, gov. Arensburg, in a deep valley on the r. bank of the Lenne, where it is joined by the Nette, 40 m. N.N.E. Cologne ; lat. 51 18 N.; Ion. 7 38 E. It has an old palace, three churches, several courts of justice, and a workhouse in a building which once formed the residence of the Counts of Mark. On a tongue of land stand large manufacturing works driven by water power, and containing machines for making needles, pins, thimbles, and smaller articles of iron ware. The value of the articles annually produced exceeds 75,000 sterling. Altena has also numerous common weaving and stocking looms. The CIRCLE has an extent of about 200 geo. sq. m. It is hilly, and not well adapted for agriculture, but a -good many cattle are reared. The hills, one of which (the Nordhelle) is above 2000, and another, near Altena (the Breloh), is 1500 ft. high, furnish the supply of numerous streams. In particular, the Wupper has its rise within the circle. Pop. of the tn. 4200 ; of the circle, 33,000, who, with the exception of 150 Jews, and 659 I. , catholics, are all Protestants. ALTENAU, a small tn. Hanover, mining dist. of, and 4 m. E. from Klaustthal, in a narrow valley on the Ocker, in the Harz mountains, and at a height of nearly 1 500 ft. above the level of the sea. Its mines produce annually 7816 marks silver, nearly 5200 sterling; about 5000 tons lead, and three tons copper. Iron is likewise produced to the extent of 5000 tons. A good many of the inhabitants are employed in making lace. Pop. 1757. ALTENAU is also the name of three vils. in Prussia, and one in Bavaria. ALTENBERG [Old hill], the name of numerous towns, villages, and districts throughout Germany, of which the only one worthy of being named is in Saxony, circle of, and 20 m. S. from Dresden, cap. bail, of same name. It is the seat of local courts of justice; has a royal storehouse for tin, an hospital, several mills propelled by water power, and in its vicinity are the most extensive tin mines on the Continent. Pop. 1950. The BAILIWICK has an area of 40 geo. sq. in. The chief employments are mining of tin, cattle rearing, and straw plaiting. Pop. 3740. ALTENBURG, or SAXE-ALTENBURO [German, Sachscn- Altenburcj], a duchy of W. Germany, consisting of two divi sions, which are separated from each other by the interposition of Reuss-Gera. The E. division, formed by the districts of Altenburg and Ronneburg, is enclosed 011 the N.E. and S. by the kingdom of Saxony, and has Prussian Saxony on the N.W., and Reuss-Gera on the W. The W. division consists of the circle of Saal-Eisenberg, and has Reuss and Gera on the E., Prussian Saxony on the N., Weimar on the N.W., the district of Rudal on the S.W., and Meiningen and Weimar on the S. The area of the divisions is nearly equal ; that of Altenburg containing about 180, and that of Saal-Eisenberg nearly 200 geo. sq. in.; but the population of the former far exceeds that of the latter, the one being 81,000, and the other only 45,000. The difference of population is accounted for by the different characters of the surface of the countries. Altenburg is one of the most fertile and best-cultivated districts in Germany; while Saal-Eisenberg, particularly in the S.E., is covered witli mountains and forests. In the E. of Altenburg, however, towards the frontier, the first slopes of the Erzegebirge begin to rise. They are composed chiefly of a reddish claystone and porphyry, and contain considerable seams of brown coal, or lignite. The chief employment of the inhabitants of both divisions, exclusive of those engaged in agriculture, is spin ning and weaving. In the towns, the woollen manufacture has ALTENBURG 110 ALT-OFEN the pre-eminence. Among the products may he mentioned wooden utensils, potash, pitch, roofing slates, lignite, glue, liqueurs, porcelain, and excellent stones. In the W. division there is a considerable traffic in corn and timber. The inhab itants, originally a branch of the Sclavonic family, have lost the language ; but still in dress, and several other respects, retain many of the old customs handed down by their fore fathers. By the constitution given to Altenburg in 1831, it is a limited monarchy ; the legislative assembly consisting of 12 delegates, elected every five years, and a president nomi nated by the Duke. As a member of the Germanic confedera tion, it is united with the other Saxon duchies, and has the 12th vote. Its military quota consists of a battalion of in fantry, numbering 982 men. In 1672, the larger portion of Altenburg was vested by succession in the family of Saxe-Gotha; and in 1825, by virtue of an exchange with the Duke of Meiningen, Altenburg, with the exception of a few small districts, fell to the Duke of Saxe-Hildburg- hausen. Pop. 126,000. (Huhn s Lex. Deutschland; Real EncyMopfidic.) ALTENBURG [Old castle].!, A city, Germany, cap. duchy Saxe-Altenburg, and of circle of its name; about 2 m.W. from the 1. bank of the Pleisse, 26 m. S. Leipzig, with which it is connected by a railway, opened in 1842, now connected with the Bavarian lines; lat. 50 56 N.; Ion. 12 27 E. I It is walled, and, though irregularly built upon several hills, | has some fine streets, and many handsome edifices, besides five considerable suburbs, named after the former city gates. ! It is the seat of the higher courts and Government offices, and contains seven churches, a gymnasium, a considerable library, a foundation for educating Protestant young ladies of rank ; a normal school, with a deaf and dumb institute attached, and several other educational establishments; also, a house of correction ; three hospitals, one of them for orphans, and other two charities ; an association for promoting trade and industry, a philosophical society, a horticultural society, a historical and antiquarian society, a drawing academy, a theatre, &c. . The palace, which is surrounded by extensive gardens, lies I N.E. of the town, on a hill of porphyry, from which a fine view is obtained. The Magdalena, or Lutheran female endowment, which stands in a garden E. of the town, is a handsome turreted building. The principal manufactures are of linen, ribbons, gloves, worsteds, brushes, vinegar, brandy, and liqueurs ; starch, sealing wax, playing cards, paint, porcelain, stoves, tobacco and snuff, optical instruments, &c. A considerable trade is carried on in cattle, corn, wood, and wool. Carriage building is also prosecuted to some extent. Pop. 13,697. 2, ALTEXBUKG [Hungarian, Magyar Ovar], a market tn. Hungary, 20 m. S.S.E. Presburg, and 47 S.E. Vienna; in a marsh, on an island of the Leitha, at the point where it unites with the r. arm of the Danube. It is surrounded with deep ditches, and finely-watered gardens ; has wide streets, and a number of handsome buildings; among others, a gymnasium, a Piarist college, an agricultural institution, and an old castle, now used as a corn magazine. The inhabitants, Germans and Hungarians, trade in black cattle, grain, and fruit. In 1605, and again in 1683, the Turks, in their progress towards Vienna, burnt this town to the ground. Pop. 3400. At least 48 places in Germany have the common name of ALTEXBURO. ALTENDORF [Old village], the names of numerous villages in Germany, in Bavaria, Hessen, Hanover, Holstein, Austria, Prussia, and Saxony. They are all small. The largest is a vil. in Moravia, on the Podelskybache, near 01- j miitz. It has a church, school, paper mill, load mill, and two wire-drawing works. In its vicinity arc lead and silver mines. Pop. 2020. ALTENGAABD. See AI.TEN. ALTENHEIM, a vil. grand duchy of Baden; situated in a rich champaign country, on the road from Kehl to Freiburg, 1 m. from the Rhine. It is a very old place, men tioned as early as A.D. 883. The inhabitants, mostly Protest ants, are engaged in agriculture and cattle breeding. Pop. 1500. ALTENKIRCHEN [Old churches], a small fortified tn., cap. circle of same name, Prussia, prov. Lower Rhine, gov. of, and 16 m. N. from Coblentz on the Wied ; lat. 50 37 N.; Ion. 7 36 E. Agriculture, the rearing of cattle, linen manu factures, and the production of various articles of iron ware, form the chief employment of the population, amounting to 1100. An obstinate battle took place here between the Austrians, under Prince Ferdinand of Wiirtemberg, and the French, under General Kleher, in 1796. The CIRCLE of Altcnkirchen has an area of about 180 geo. sq. in., and is rugged and mountainous. Some of the hills are of basalt ; and the cup-shaped summits of some of them have all the appearance of old craters. Not much grain is produced, but a great number of cattle, sheep, goats, and swine are reared. The cows, amounting to 9400, prove that the dairy is not neglected. Within the circle, at Hamm, are a furnace for making rough steel, another for smelting copper, and a powder mill. In other parts of the circle, various mining operations are carried on, and there are several iron furnaces. Pop. 34,000, nearly divided between R. catholics and Protestants. There are several other places in Germany named ALTENKIRCHEN. ALTENMARKT [Old market], the name of numerous unimportant places in Germany. ALTENSTADT [Old town], the name of seven unimport ant places in Bavaria, two in Hessen, one in Wiirtemberg, and one in Austria. ALTENSTEIG, or ALTENSTAIG, a tn. Wiirtemberg, circle Black Forest, on the slope of a steep hill, near the Nagold, 29 m. S. W. Stutgardt. It has tanneries, with woollen and linen manufactures, and a work for making salt of sorrel. Pop. 2000. ALTER-DO-CHAO, a tn. Portugal, prov. Alemtejo, 15 m. S.W. Portalegre, on the river Avis. It is enclosed within old walls, and has a poor s house, and the ruins of a castle. Pop. 2000. ALTERNON, a par. England, co. Cornwall; area, 13,840 ac.; 7j m. W T .S.W. Launceston. Pop. in 1841, 1334. ALTHORNE, a par. England, co. Essex ; 2000 ac. Pop in 1841, 418. ALTHORPE, a par. England, co. Lincoln; 5460 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1184. ALTIN, a lake, Siberia, gov. of, and 330m. S.S.E. from Tomsk ; 77 m. long, and 52 m. broad. It has a rocky bottom, and gives rise to the Byia river, which, after its union with the Katunya, receives the name of Obe. In winter, the N. part is sometimes frozen so as to be passable on sledges, but the S. part is never covered with ice. The Russians call Altin Lake Teletskoc Osero, from the Teletsi, a Tartar tribe, who inhabit its borders, and who give it the name of Altin-KuL By the Kalmuks it is called Altin- Nor. The water in the lake, as well as in the rivers which run through the adjacent country, is increased during summer by melted snow ; hence it appears of greater or smaller extent, according to the period of the year at which it is seen by different travellers. A neigh bouring branch of the Altai mountains is also called ALTIN. ALTKIRCH [Old church], a small manufacturing tn. France, dep. Haut-Rhin (Alsace), 17 m. W. Basel. It is situated upon a height, at the foot of which flows the 111, near the forest of Hart; and is divided into the upper and lower town, between which are the ruins of an old castle, the residence of the Archdukes of Austria, when they visited Alsace. It is the seat of a tribunal of primary jurisdiction, and of a communal college. The manufactures are princi pally of earthenware, cotton, and various kinds of implements. There are also breweries and tanneries in the town, and, in the neighbourhood, excellent quarries of stone and gypsum. A considerable trade is carried on in grain, wine, and hemp ; and a cattle market is held once a month. Pop. in 1846, 3316. ALTMUHL [Lat. Alemannus, Alimoma], a river, Ba varia, an affluent of the Danube, from the left, rising 16 m. N.W. Anspach, and 8 m. N.E. Rothenburg; about lat. 49 26 N.; Ion. 10 18 E. ; whence it runs S.E., past Pappenheim and Eichstlidt, about 132 m., to Kelheim, where it joins the Danube, 12 m. S.W. Regensburg. The Ludwig, or Mayn- Danube Canal, from Bamberg on the Regnitz to Dietfurt on the Altmiihl, unites the German Ocean with the Black Sea by the centre of Europe. ALT-GETTING. See. OETTJNG. ALT-OFEN, a municipal tn. Hungary, forming almost a suburb of Ofen, or Buda, from which it is separated merely by a barrier. It is supposed to occupy the site of Sicambria of the Romans. Pop. 9150. ALTOMONTE HI ALTSTRELITZ ALTOMONTE, or ALTAMONT, a tn. Naples, prov. f alabria Citra, 12 m. S.W. Cassano, situated on an eminence. In the neighbourhood are mines of gold, silver, and iron; and a salt spring. Fop. 4600. ALTON. 1, A market tn. and par. England, co. Hants. The town is about 16 m. N.E. Winchester, and 46 m. S.W. London, on the main road from the latter to the former, and near the river Wey. It consists of one principal street, about half a mile long, three small streets, and a spacious market place, all clean and well kept. The houses are respectable, and many of them well built ; mostly of brick, although there are quarries of good building stone in the neighbourhood. It is amply supplied with excellent water, and lighted with gas. The church is a handsome building, with a square embattled tower and spire. There are, besides, several dissenting places of worship; a number of schools, including a free school, and a British school; several benevolent and charitable institutions; and a mechanic s institute, having a library containing 1000 volumes. Bombazines were formerly manufactured here to a considerable extent, but the trade is now entirely extinct. Sacking and hop bagging both to a small amount are the only manufactures now carried on here ; but there is a con siderable retail trade in domestic necessaries. There are also some large breweries, the ale from which is much esteemed. The town is under the jurisdiction of the county magistrates ; and the petty sessions for the division of N. Alton are held here. It is one of the polling places for the county ; has weekly corn and cattle markets ; and two fairs annually ; one in April, for sheep and lambs ; the other in September, for cattle and toys. Area of par., 3910 ac. ; pop. of tn. and par. in 1841, 3139. (Correspondent in Alton.} 2, ALTON is also the name of a division, co. Hants ; and of a hamlet, co. Worcester. 3, A tn., U. States, in Illinois, on the E. bank of the Mississippi, near the junction of the Illinois with that river, and 1 80 m. W. Washington. Its streets are spacious, and regularly laid out. There are five squares, and six churches, belonging to various religious bodies; some of the latter are large and handsome buildings. It is favourably situated for commercial purposes, and has the best landing for steam vessels on the E. bank of the Mississippi. There are here three printing offices, and two weekly newspapers. Pop. 2340. ALTONA, the second city in the kingdom of Denmark ; and though the most recent, yet the largest and most popu lous in the duchy of Holstein. It is a river port, on the r. bank of the Elbe, a little below Hamburg, with whose suburb of St. Pauli its E. side is almost in immediate proximity; while, on the W., it is joined by the populous villages of Ottensen and Neumiihl; lat. (observatory) 53 32 42" N.; Ion. 9 56 42" E. (R.) It stands higher, and is hence said to be more healthy, than Hamburg. It is in general well built, but does not possess many objects of interest. Its finest street is the Palmall, which is long and broad, is lined with good houses, and has a fine shady walk in the centre, formed by a double row of lime trees. Of its six churches, the only one deserv ing of notice is the high church, which has two towers, and is considered the finest in the duchy. Among the other buildings may be mentioned a gymnasium, with a library of 12,000 volumes; an orphan hospital, and large infirmary. In the cemetery beyond the town, are the tomb of Klopstock, who died in Hamburg in 1804, at the age of 80, and a monu ment to the Hamburgers who fell during the siege of 1813- 1814. The trade and manufactures of Altona are extensive, and have been carefully fostered by the Danish Government, which has endeavoured, by special privileges and immunities, to attract to it part of the extensive commerce previously monopolized by Hamburg. The success has been compara tively limited. Notwithstanding of the rapid, and, for an European continental town, almost unprecedented rise of Altona, Hamburg maintains it pre-eminence; and has even converted the former into a kind of suburb, where the merchants of the latter reside, not to carry on, but to retire from busi ness ; thus almost justifying the vulgar pun, which, playing upon the name of Altona, derives it from the Low German words, al-to-nah (all too nigh), as indicating its unhappy proximity to Hamburg. Perhaps the most important manu facture of Altona is that of tobacco. One single factory employs 120 persons, and works up 600,000 Ibs. In 1844, of 1,100,000 Ibs. of raw tobacco used, 110,000 were made into snuff, 64,000 into cheroots, and 64,000 into cigars. Tim other public works are soap and oil works, dyeworks for woollen goods, a chemical work, a vinegar work, a type foundry, an extensive linen and cotton printfield, roperies, tanneries, and breweries, famous for their beer. The railways recently completed in the neighbourhood have added greatly to the importance of Altona, both in a commercial and military point of view; in the former, by the railway to Kiel, which connects it with the Baltic; and in the latter, by a branch of the same railway, which connects it with the important fortress of Eendsburg. Altona has four dockyards. Its harbour is only a winter haven of the third class, having a depth of water from 7^ to 14 ft. ; but the largest merchant vessels once over the bar of Blankenese, can unload at the warehouses on the bank of the Elbe, especially at the W. end of the town, where the ordinary depth of water in the river is from 15 to 25ft. The number of vessels belonging to Altona is 238; and that of the vessels of all kinds, including fishing-boats, by which its port was visited in 1853, was 3825; tonn., 186,680. Pop. of Altona proper in 1845, 32,200; but, in cluding Ottensen and Neumiihl, which ought to be regarded as its suburbs, 37,000. Other three places in Holstein, and 11 in different parts of Germany, have the name of ALTONA. (Baggesen s Danische Sfriat; Huhn s Lex. Dcutscldand.} ALTON-BARNES, a par. England, co. Wilts; area, 250 ac. ; 4 m. W. by N. Pewsey. Pop. in 1841, 167. ALTON-PANCRAS, a par. England, co. Dorset; 1370 ac. ; 2 m. E. Cerne Abbas. Pop. in 1841, 248. ALTRANSTADT, a vil. Prussian Saxony, gov. of, and 9 m. E. from Merseburg. In its ancient castle, the treaty of peace was concluded between Charles XII., King of Sweden, and Augustus, elector of Saxony, September 24, 1706. ALTRINGHAM, or ALTRINCHAM, a small tu. and chapelry, England, co. Chester. The town lies 8 m. S.W. Manchester, and 25 m. E. Liverpool ; is remarkably neat and clean, on which account, and the salubrity of its air, it is much resorted to by invalids from Manchester. There are, besides the parish church, several dissenting places of worship, some schools, and a few small charities. Thread and woollen yarn are manufactured to some extent, but the chief employment of the labouring classes is agriculture and gardening ; the fruit and vegetable markets of Manchester being chiefly supplied from this neighbourhood. The Duke of Bridge- water s canal passes near the town, and contributes largely to its prosperity. Fairs for cattle and drapery, in April, August, and November. Pop. in 1841, of tn. and chapelry, 3399. ALTSOL, or ZOLIUM, an old imperial free tn. Hungary, 72 m. N. Pesth; on the hank of the Gran, where it is joined by the Szalatna. On a rocky height are the remains of a castle, supposed to have been built in 1457, once the favourite hunt ing seat of King Mathias I., called by the Hungarian peasants the good king Mathias, now principally used as a prison. In the neighbourhood is an acidulated spring of some celebrity, and hemp is cultivated to some extent. Pop. 2000. ALTSTETTEN. 1 , A small tn. and par. Switzerland, can. of, and 9 m. S.E. from the town of St. Gallen, situated on the slope of a mountain in the midst of a fertile and well-cultivated district. It has a fine church, a townhouse, narrow streets, and mostly high stone houses, some of which are handsome. The houses of the suburbs are of wood. It sustained a siege of three weeks from the Austrians in 1410, and suffered at various times from fire. In the beginning of the lieforma - tion, Carlstadt was some time a preacher here. In the vicinity is a Franciscan nunnery, and an elegant bathhouse attached to the cold sulphurous spring on the E. side of the town. Pop. of tn. and par. 6429. 2, A vil. and par., can. of, and 3 m. W.N.W. from the town of Zurich. Pop. 992. ALTSTRELITZ, a walled tn. Mecklenburg, circle Star- gard, in a plain near the Miihlenbach, which here forms a lake, 58 m. N.N.W. Berlin ; lat. 53 19 N.; Ion. 13 5 E. It has three gates and as many squares, but the houses are for the most part paltry. In the environs are numerous gardens, and a promenade called the Fasanerie (pheasantry), much fre quented. Altstrelitz was at one time famed for its horse markets, but the chief employments of the inhabitants now are agriculture and cattle rearing. There are also carried on manufactures of leather, linen, straw hats, mats, and wax- tapers. Pop., of whom 390 are Jews, 2943. ALTUN-KUPRI 112 ALVINCZ ALTUN-KUPRI [Golden bridge], a small tn. Asiatic Turkey, in Koordistan, pash. Bagdad, on an island in the Altun-su, or Little Zab river, which is here crossed by two bridges of brick work, 60 m. S.E. Mosul, and 26 m. S.E. Arbel or Erbil ; Colonel Shiel says, about 40 m., but, being much fatigued, he may have over-estimated it, and the prob ability of his having done so is the greater that he states the distance to Kirkook, which is further away, at 25 m. The pop. was formerly about 8000, but has since been much re duced by plague and famine. ALTURA, a tn. Spain, in Valencia, prov. of, and 23 m. W.S.W. from Castellon do la Plana, near the r. bank of the Palancia ; tolerably built, with a church, chapel, and two schools. The inhabitants are principally occupied with agriculture, making wine and oil, and rearing domestic cattle and silkworms. Pop. 1905. (Madoz.) ALTWASSER, a vil. Prussia, gov. of, and 35 m. S.W. from Breslau, on a slope of the Vogel-koppe, belonging to the chain of the Mittelgebirge, 1200 ft. above the level of the sea, and overlooking an extensive valley of great beauty. There are several alkaline and chalybeate springs here, and the baths which have been established at them are much resorted to. Pop., exclusive of bathers, 1590. ALUMPOOR, a tn. Hindoostan, in the Dcccan, 1. bank of the Kistna; lat. 15 54 N. ; Ion. 78 10 E. ALUSHTA, a tn. Russia, on the S. coast of the Crimea, beautifully situated on an isolated schistous hill, forming a spur from the Taurus chain, bathed on the E. by the Temirdshi, and on the W. by the Ulu, 22 m. S.E. Simferopol. It appears to have been anciently a place of considerable importance. The first mention made of it is in the 6th century, when its castle, which bore the name of Alouston, was repaired by the Emperor Justinian. The ruins of the castle still crown the rock on which the town is built, and advantage has been taken of them by the inhabitants, who, in many cases, have built their houses against them. These houses are of a very peculiar construction. They are half sunk in the ground, and, by means of roughly-hewn stones, cemented by a kind of greasy earth, rise a short way above the surface, and support a flat roof, which serves as a terrace walk, and occasionally as the platform from which the next house in the ascent is entered. Alushta still contains the remains of several Greek churches ; and one of them, from bearing some resemblance to a cathedral church, seems to indicate that the town was once the seat of a bishop. (Montpereux, Voy. Autour du Caucase.) ALUTA, ALT, or AI.OUTA, a rapid river, Transylvania ; it rises in the W. Carpathian mountains, on the Molda frontier, about lat. 46 38 N.; Ion. 25 46 E.; flows S. to 1 llyefalva, thence N. to lat. 46, whence S.W. and S. Crossing the E. Carpathian by the pass of 15othenthurm, it enters and crosses Wallachia, and falls into the Danube at Nicopoli, after a course of about 270 m. It is said to contain some gold. ALVA, a vil. and par. Scotland, co. Stirling. The vil. 7 m. N.E. Stirling, pleasantly situated on nearly level ground at the base of a hill called Craigleith. It consists of two principal streets, running nearly parallel to each other, botli straight and well kept. The houses are generally built of the native whinstone, but a few are of red sandstone, obtainec from an adjoining coal field. On an eminence a little to the E. of the village, stands the parish church, built in 1632 There are also a Free church, and a United Presbyterian church. The parish school house, situated in the centre o the village, is a neat building, and capable of accommodating upwards of 100 scholars. There are, besides, a subscriptioi .school, an infant school, and a seminary for the education o female children, supported chiefly by private benevolence Woollen goods, particularly shawls and plaids, are manufac tured here to a very considerable extent, and have been so foi upwards of a century and a half. Spinning and throwing of | woollen yams is also carried on largely, the whole employing about 1800 hands. Glasgow is the principal market for these manufactures, although quantities are sent also to Stirling, Perth, and Edinburgh. Pop. of 1841,2092, par. 124. Total, 2216. There has been an increase of the population since 1831 of 916, attributed to the success of the woollen manufactures. ALVAH, a par. Scotland, co. Banff; area, 11,133 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1407 ALVAR, ALVUR, or ALWUR, a principality, Upper Ilin- loostan, chiefly in prov. Agra, between lat. 27 and 28 N.. N. W. the dist. of Agra, and S.W. that of Delhi ; area, 3000 iq. m. In Mahometan histories it is sometimes called Mewat, md its inhabitants Mewaties. The greater part of the country s hilly, and covered with wood ; but it contains also well- cultivated valleys and plains. The natives are singularly avage and brutal, and are noted for predatory incursions on ;he surrounding territories. Previously to 1 780, it was subject :o the rajah of Jeypoor, but is now governed by the rajah of Macherry, with whom a treaty was, in 1803, concluded by Lord Lake, taking him under the protection of the British Govern ment ; since which event, kind treatment has so far ameliorated he character of the natives, that the rapine of the Mewaties is now seldom heard of. The principal towns are Alvar, the cap.; Macherry, from which the rajah derives his title; and Uajgluir. (Hamilton s East India Gaz.; Walker s Map of India.} ALVAR, or ALWUR, a tn. Hindoostan, in Ajmeer, cap. principality of same name, 85 m. S.S.W. Delhi ; lat. 27 30 N. ; Ion. 78 E. It is strongly fortified, and lies at the base of a steep hill, on the summit of which there is another fort, well supplied with water. Alvar is the usual residence of the a jah of Macherry. (Hamilton s East India Gaz.; Walker s Map of India, 1850.) ALVARAUO. 1, A small tn. and port, Mexico, state of, and 40 m. S.E. from VeraCruz; lat. 18 45 N. ; Ion. 95 43 W. (R.) The town stands in an unhealthy situation, on the point of a small promontory, which forms the N.W. en trance into the harbour, or lagoon. The latter is a bar har bour, capable of admitting vessels of 12 and 13 ft. draught, which, within the bar, on which there is 9 ft. depth at low water, lie sheltered from every wind. There is a dockyard at Alvarado. 2, A river, formed by the union of several streams, rising in the mountains of the state of Oaxaca. It flows E.N.E. through the state of Vera Cruz, forms a lake of its own name, and falls into the Gulf of Mexico, through the lagoon or harbour of Alvarado, after flowing a direct distance of 120 m. from the junction of the head streams. ALVAYAZERE, atn. Portugal, prov. Beira baixa, 31 m. S. Coimbra. Pop. 1343. ALVECHURCH, a par. England, co. Worcester; area, 6820 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1633. ALVEDISTON, a par. England, co. Wilts; 2400 ac. Pop. in 1841, 263. ALVELEY, a par. and township, England, co. Salop 7640 ac. ; on the E. bank of the Severn. Pop. in 1841, 1062. ALVERCA. 1, A small tn. Portugal, prov. Estrema- dura, 12 m. N.N.E. Lisbon, upon a height near the r. bank of the Tagus, with a small fishing port. The neighbouring hills are covered with olive trees. A well-frequented annual fair is held. Pop. 1275. 2, A town, prov. Beira-alta, 10 in. S.E. Trancoso. Some tanning is carried on. Pop. 780. ALVERD1SCOTT, a par. England, co. Devon; area, 1390 ac. ; 5 m. S.E. Brideford. Pop. in 1841, 332. ALVERNIA, a vil. Tuscany, on a mountain of its own name, 2 m. N. Chiusi. Its monastery, founded A.I). 1218, by St. Francis d Assisi, was the cradle of the Franciscan order. ALVERSTOKE, a par. England, co. Hants; 4010 ac. Pop. in 1841, 13,510. ALVES, a par. Scotland, co. Elgin, on the Moray Frith. Pop. in 1841, 798. ALVESCOTT, a par. England, co. Oxford; 2690 ac. ; 5 m. E. Burford. Pop. in 1841, 357. ALVESTON, two parishes, England : 1, Co. Gloucester ; area, 2470 ac. ; 9 m. N. by E. Bristol. Pop. in 1841, 841. 2, Co. Warwick; area, 4300 ac. ; 2 m. N.E. Stratford-on-Avon. Pop. in 1841, 793. ALVETON, or ALTON, a par. England, co. Stafford; 7470 ac. Pop. in 1841,2390. ALVIE, a par. Scotland, co. Inverness; area, 41,660 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1/72. ALVIGNANO, or AVJGNANO, a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavora, dist. of Piedmont, 11 m. N.E. Capua, pleasantly situated on the declivity of the Caprarian hills. Pop. 2092. ALVINCZ, or ALVINEZ, also called ALVINTZ, VINCZA, BINSTUM, WINZERDOKF, a tn. Austria, in Transylvania, W. bank of the Maros, 7 m. S.W. Karlsburg; with a R. catholic, a Protestant, and a Greek church, and a Franciscan convent. Pop., almost entirely Magyars and Bulgarians, 3500. ALVINGHAM 113 AMALFI ALVINGHAM, a par. England, co. Lincoln ; area, 1940 ac. ; 3J m. N.E. Louth, on the Navigation Canal. Pop. in 1841, 313. ALVINGTON, three pars. Eng. : 1, par. Gloucester; 1 550 ac. Pop. 340. 2, Alvington (East], par. Devon ; 4220 ac. Pop. 729. 3, Alvington (West) ; 3840 ac. Pop. 998. ALVITO. 1, A small tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavora, dist. of, and 8 in. S.E. from Sora, on the declivity of a hill. It has an hospital, and several monts-dc-pieti for the marriage of poor young women. Pop. 3500. 2, A small tn. Portugal, prov. Alemtejo, 18 m. N.W. Beja, with an old castle, on the small river of the same name, an affluent of the Sado. Pop. 1570. ALVOR, a tn. Portugal, prov. Algarve, on a streamlet of the same name, 8 in. N.E. by E. Lagos, about 2 m. from the S. coast of the province. It is well built, and exports excellent salt. Pop. 1260. ALVORNINHA, a tn. Portugal, prov. Estremadura, 54 m. N. Lisbon. Pop. 1530. ALWALTON, par. Eng. Huntingdon ; 1040 ac. P. 329. ALWINGTON, par. Eng. Devon ; 5330 ac. Pop. 392. ALYTH, a vil. and par. Scotland, cos. Perth and Forfar. The vil. is pleasantly situated on the rising ground on the N. side of the valley of Strathmore, 17 m. N. Dundee, and is intersected by the streamlet Alyth. It consists of four prin cipal streets, all rather narrow and crooked, but tolerably well kept. The houses are of red sandstone, roofed with blue slate, and substantially built. Excellent water, brought in pipes from a distance, is abundant, and the town is well lighted with gas. The parish church, which was erected about 10 years since, at a cost of about 7000, is a hand some building, with a very elegant spire. The ruins of the old parish church, consisting of three arches, which stand conspicuously on an eminence in the centre of the town, and are said to have been built by a bishop of Dunkeld, are still entire, and in good preservation. There are also a Free church, a United Presbyterian church, an Episcopal chapel, the parish school, the Free church school, two female schools, and a private school. The manufacture of coarse linens, chiefly for exportation, affords employment to the majority of the popu lation. There is also a small factory for carding and spinning wool. Considerable quantities of shoes are likewise made here. Alyth is the market town for an extensive agricul tural district. It was erected into a burgh of barony in 1488, by James III., and is governed by a baron bailie, who holds a court on the first Tuesday of every month. The par. is about 12 m. in length by 3 in breadth. The scenery in the vicinity is exceedingly beautiful. Pop. of vil. in 1841, 1846; of par. 2910. (Correspondent in Alyth.} ALZANO MAGGIORE, a tn. Venetian Lombardy, cap. dist. of same name, prov. of, and 4 m. N.E. from Bergamo, r. bank of the Serio. It is handsomely built, with wide clean streets, and has a magnificent church, adorned with rare paint ings and sculpture. Manufactures : Linen, woollen, cotton j and silken fabrics, paper, and lace. Pop. 2154. The DISTRICT, comprising the S. extremity of the Val Seriana and its adjacent hills, is extremely picturesque and productive. Grain, wine, oil, fruits, and vegetables, are raised in vast quan tities, and of superior quality. The mulberry tree is also much cultivated, and the hill sides covered with forests of oak, pine, and chestnut. Pop. 13,032. (Dizio. Univ. Jtalia.) ALZENAU, a market tn. Bavaria, on the Kahlbach, 10 m. N. Aschaffenburg, and 20 m. E. Frankfort-on-the -Maine. It is the seat of a local court, and has a royal castle, some mills, and ^manufactures of hats. Pop. 1041. ALZEY [anc. Altiaia], a tn. Hesse-Darmstadt, cap. bail, of same name, on the Salze, in the centre of a valley encircled by hills, 18m. S.S.W. Mainz. It is walled ; has three churches, two Protestant, and one R. Catholic; a handsome market place, brick works, and manufactures of leather, linen, and stockings. Its common and cattle fairs are of considerable importance. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of the castle of the ancient Burgraves, destroyed by the French in 1689. Pop. 4300. The BAII-IWICK produces corn and rye, chiefly the latter, and some excellent wine. Pop. 20,000. AM ACUSA, or AMAKOUSA, an isl. in the Japanese em pire, off the W. coast of the Island of Kiousiou, or Kiusui. The centre of Amacusa is about lat. 32 20 N. ; Ion. 1 30 15 E. Its extreme N.W. point is 18 m. S.E. Cape Nomo. VOL. I. AMADIYAH, atn. Asiatic Turkey, in Koordistan. once cap. of an independent principality of the same name, 75 m. N.W. Mosul. It stands on a rocky terrace of limestone, and is of considerable size ; but is now nearly in ruins, not more than a third of the houses being habitable, while a fourth part only of the bazaar can be made use of, the remainder being in a state of decay. It is entered by two gates, and is defended at various points by guard houses, towers, and irre gularly-constructed bastions, and by a castle, in which a garri son is maintained. The town contains a solitary minaret, and the residence of a pasha, the lower part of which is built of stone, the upper of mud. The Jews, who are the most numerous body in the town, occupy 70 dwellings, and have three synagogues. (Ainsworth s Visit to the Chaldeans.) AMAGER, sometimes erroneously called AMAK, an isl. Denmark, separated from the isl. of Seeland and city of Copen Iiagen merely by the harbour of the latter, part of which, in deed, and the suburb of Christianshavn, are built on it ; area, about 20 sq. m. It is flat, well cultivated, and may be regarded as the kitchen garden of the capital, with which it is connected by means of bridges across the harbour. Its inhabitants, ex clusive of Christianshavn, about 6500, are descended chiefly from 24 Dutch families, who settled down here from N. Hol land in 1516. Lime burning, and the manufacturing of nitric acid, salrniac, soap, and patent manure, are carried on. AMAL, a tn. Sweden, Ian of, and 48 m. N.N.E. from Wenersborg, in Dalsland, advantageously, but not beautifully, situated on the N.W. shore of Lake Wener ; lat. 59 3 39" N.; Ion. 12 41 56" E. (L.) It is intersected by a small stream is built with tolerable regularity, and has a rather handsome church. The harbour is convenient; and the inhabitants, 1457 in number, are chiefly occupied in boat traffic on the lake, in retail trade, and agricultur AMALl<l,a city and seaport, Naples, prov. Principato ^o oo n the Gulf aml 9 m " W -S-W. from Salerno; lat. =0 38 N. ; Ion. 14 37 10" E. (c.) The city, whose position AMALFI, a city and Citra. < - 40 38 is extremely picturesque, extends over the summits of a series of lofty rocks, still crowned with embattled walls and ruined towers memorials of its former greatness. The public build ings are noway remarkable. Amongst them is alarge cathedral, m of Byzantine architecture, dedicated to St. Andrew, whose body was deposited here in 1208. The city has an arsenal, some paper mills, several manufactories of serge, and an iron work. Its trade, which, at one time, comprehended that of all the Levant, has now almost entirely disappeared ; and with it, the population, which has fallen from Amain rose early into importance, having attained the height of its prosperity during the llth century, at which time it was the great mart for all kinds of Eastern merchandise. It assumed the form of an independent republic, and continued to retain its rank as a commercial and maritime city for several centuries, when it fell into a decav in greater proportion of the 50,000 to less than 4000. AMALLAPOOKAM 114 AMAR1BO from which it never afterwards recovered. Amalfi took an active part in the crusades ; and, for its zeal on that occasion, was honoured with the title of Defender of the Faith, by Leo IV. At this period the Amalfitans founded, in Palestine, the hospital of St. Jolxn of Jerusalem ; from which arose the famous military order of Malta. Amalfi was twice captured and plundered ; first, by Robert Guiscard, the Norman con queror, in 1075; and again, in 1130, by the Pisans, on which occasion the latter found a copy of the Pandects of Justinian. It is the birthplace of Flavia Gioja, to whom the invention of the mariner s compass has been assigned, though his merit is limited to that of having greatly improved it; and of Masani- ello, the fisherman of Naples. Pop. 3439. AMALLAPOORAM, a tn. Hindoostan, in the Circars, on one of the mouths of the Godavery, 65 in. E.N.E. Masuli- patam. Its inhabitants, who exceed 5000, are engaged in weaving cotton fabrics. AMAMBAHI, or AMAMBAY, a mountain range and river, S. America. The mountain range stretches from the serra Galliano, Brazil, in the S. of prov. Matto- Grosso, in a S. direc tion into Paraguay, till it meets with the Cordillera de Mara- cayu, running E. and \V. It is about 200 m. long; forms the watershed between the Parana and the Paraguay rivers, and from its E. slope flows the river of the same name, E. to the Parana, which it joins about lat. 23 15 S.; Ion. 54 2W W., after a total course of about 100 m. direct distance. AM AN A. 1, A river, Venezuela, prov. Cumana, rises a little W. Urica ; lat. 9 40 N. ; Ion. 64 18 W. ; from which it flows, first in a S.E. direction, then N.E., and falls into the Gulf of Paria, lat. 10 N. ; its entire course being about 140 m. 2, A lake, Brazil, formed by a bifurcation of the Tijuaca, itself a stream flowing out of the Japura, an affluent of the Amazon from the N. It lies in lat. 2 35 S. ; Ion. 64 38 W., and is about 20. m. long by 10 in. broad. About 8 in. N. from the lake is a vil. of the same name. AMANAPOOR, a military station in the isl. Ceylon, standing partly on the top, and partly at the foot, of a steep mountain, 2000 ft. high ; in lat. 7 15 N. ; Ion. 80 45 E. AMANCE, several places, France : 1, [anc. Amantia,] A tn. and com., dep. Haute-Saone, 16 m. N.N.W. Vesoul ; has potteries, tile works, and pits of white sand, used in glass making. Pop. 1032. 2, A vil. and com., dep. Aube, 12 m. from Bar-sur-Aube ; manufactures good pottery. Pop. 550. 3, [anc. Ementia,] A vil. and com., dep. Meurthe, 37 m. N.W. Nancy; formerly a fortified place. Pop. 549. 4, A small river, dep. Aube, rising a short way above the village of Amance, and falling into the Aube below Basse-Fontaine. AM AND (ST.), several villages and communes, France : J , A vil. and com., dep. Manche, 9 m. from St. Lo. Pop. 1402. 2, A vil. and com., dep. Marne, 6 m. from Vitry le Fran^ais. Pop. 1260. 3, St. Amand-de-Coly, a vil. and com., dep. Dor- dogne, 15 m. from Salut. Pop. 1071. 4, St. Amand-en-Puisaie, a tn. and com., dep. Nievre, cap. can. ; manufactures of pottery. Pop. 1845. 5, St. Amand- Magnaziex, a vil. and com., dep. Haute- Vienne, 17 m. from Bellac. Pop. 1302. 6, St. Amand- sur-Sevre, a tn. and com., dep. Deux Sevres, 15 m. from Bres- suire. Pop. 1491. Besides these there are several others, all small. AM AND (Sr.), or ST. AMAND-MOXTROND, a tn. France, dep. Cher, on the Marmande, a tributary of the Cher, near the junction of these streams ; cap. can. and arrond. of same name ; 24 m. S.S.E. Bourges. It is neatly built; the seat of a tri bunal of primary jurisdiction, and of a communal college. There are here manufactures of wooden clogs, and of chamois and other kinds of leather ; and in the neighbourhood are iron forges, cannon foundries, and porcelain works. A lively trade in grain, wine, chestnuts, timber, iron, staves, hemp, leather, goat skins, and the cattle of the district, is also carried on. A branch of the Canal du Cher connects St. Amand with Montl^on, and the coal mines of Commentry. At no great distance are the ruins of the Castle of Montrond, originally fortified by the Duke of Sully, the celebrated minister of Henry IV., and formerly regarded as one of the strongest places in the kingdom. Pop. 6943. The arrond. contains 11 cans, and 115 corns. Pop. in 1846, 103,723. AMAND-LES-EAUX (ST.), an anc. tn. France, dep. du Noird, 1. bank of the Scarpe, cap. can., 7 m. N.W. Valen ciennes. It has a communal college, and is the centre of the fl:ix-growing district ; and possesses manufactories of porce- | lain, lace, thread, leather, soap, linseed oil, woollen stockings, 1 cotton coverlets, and chicory, with several distilleries and I tanneries, and some boatbuilding yards. A considerable trade J is carried on in oil, wine, brandy, soap, thread, cotton and ! woollen goods, lace, &c. About 3 m. from the town are { mineral waters and mud baths, which have been celebrated for two centuries, and still continue to be well frequented. ! The water is clear, and not very unpalatable, but has a strong ! smell of sulphuretted hydrogen. It is said to be very efficacious in paralytic and nervous affections. The walks in the vicinity are finely wooded. A Benedictine abbey, founded here, in 634, by St. Amand, was destroyed at the Revolution ; and all that now remains of it is the steeple, which was built in 1 636, and has a height of 300 ft. Pop. 6312. AMAND-ROCHE-SAV1NE (ST.), a In. and com. France, dep. Puy-de-Dome, cap. can., 9 m. S. Clermont. In the vicinity are chalybeate springs and lead mines. Pop. 2276. AMANS (ST.), several towns, villages, and communes, France: 1, A vil. and com., dep. Aveyron, cap. can., 14 m. from Epalion. Pop. 1331. 2, St. Amans-la-Bastide, a tn. and com., dep. Tarn, cap. can., on the There, which separates it from the town of St. Arnans Valtoret. Manufactures : Cloth, bonnets, wool, and china ware, and brick. It has a Protestant church, and is the birthplace of Marshal Soult. Pop. 2686. 3, St. Amans Valtoret, a vil. and com., dep. Tarn, on the Thore, 17 m. from Castres. Pop. 1850. Besides these there are several others, all small. AMANTEA, a seaport tn. Naples, on the Mediterranean, prov. Calabria Citra, clist. Paola, 14 m. S.W. Cosenza; lat. 39 15 N. ; Ion. 16 20 E. It is surrounded with walls, has an old castle, four parish churches, several convents, and a high school founded by Ferdinand IV. There are some hot springs in the vicinity. The town is believed to be built on the site of the ancient Nipezia. Pop. 2814. AMARANTE, an anc. tn. Portugal, prov. Entre Douro e Minho, on the Tamega ; crossed here by a handsome stone bridge, 34 m. N.E. Oporto; pleasantly situated in a fine district, and forming the residence of several noble families. It is well built, and has two churches, a Latin school, an hospital, and poor s house; but is a dull, decayed place. Pop. 1500. AMARAPURA, or AMRAPOORA, a city, Burmah, form erly cap. of the empire, on the 1. bank of the Irrawady, 10m. N.E. Ava; lat. 22 N. ; Ion. 96 18 E. ; founded, in 1783, by the Burmese monarch, Mindarajee Praw, and made the capital instead of Ava the ancient, and recently again the capital. The city lies about three-fourths of a mile from the Irrawady, and consists of a large fortress, with extensive suburbs, stretch ing for about 4 m. along the river. The houses are generally of wood, with tiled roofs ; but some have mats and bamboos, covered with shingles, or thatch ; and a few, chiefly belonging to the royal family, are of brick and mortar. Those of the chief persons are surrounded by a wooden enclosure; and along the ridges of every house are ranged earthen pots, filled with water, to be used in case of fire. The fortress is a square, the sides of which are about 2400 yards, having large bastions at the angles ; and along each side 1 1 smaller ones, and three; gates. The whole is of brick, surrounded by a ditch 50 ft. wide, and 15 deep, crossed by causeways leading to the gates. It is deemed impregnable by the natives, but would soon yield to the force of artillery. In the N.W. angle is placed the royal library, the books being kept in about 100 wooden chests, curiously ornamented. Throughout the city there is a great number of temples and pagodas, which, from the expensive gilding of their roofs, have a very splendid appear ance. In 1800, its population amounted to 175,000; but the seat of government having been removed back to Ava in 1819, it has greatly fallen off, and does not now exceed 30,000. (Crawfurd s Embassy to Ava ; Hamilton s East India Gaz. Asiatic Journal.} AMARGURA, an isl. and volcano, S. Pacific Ocenn, one of the Friendly Islands; lat. 17 58 S.; Ion. 174 16 W. (R.) The volcano, which is 1600 ft. in height, has only recently become active. AMARIBO, or MANA, a river in French Guayana, rises about lat. 3 35 N. ; and, after a course, nearly due N., of 146 m., falls into the Atlantic 20m. E. the c.mbouchure of the river Marony, or Marawina. AMASKEII 115 AMAZON AMASREII, AMASERAII, or AMASTRA [anc. Amastris], a tn. Asiatic Turkey, on a rocky peninsula on the Black Sea, 188 m. E.N.E. Constantinople; lat.4148 N.; Ion. 32 20 E. Here are Grecian, Roman, Byzantine, and Genoese remains. The town overlooks the sea to the N., but its greatest exterior fronts S. Pop. nearly 1000. AM ASIA [anc. AmasiyaJt], a tn. Asiatic Turkey, cap. sanjak of same name, r. bank of the Irmak [anc. 7m], GO m. from its embouchure at Cape Tcherchenibeh, on the Black Sea, 31 m. N.N.W. Tokat; lat. 40 38 N.; Ion. 36 15 E. It is picturesquely situated in a deep valley, overhung by lofty precipitous rocks, through which flows the Irmak; crossed within the limits of the city by four bridges, one of which is very old, and apparently of Roman construction. The streets, like all those of eastern towns, are narrow and tortuous; the principal are lined with Saracenic buildings, either in ruins, or used as mosques. Many of the houses are built of stone, but nearly all of them have a mean appearance. The bazaars are small and ill supplied. One of the most disagreeable and yet striking sights frequent in this town, is presented by the number, and horrid tameness of the large white vultures, which perform, with alacrity and zeal, the disgusting office of street sweepers and scavengers. (Hamil ton.) The castle and Acropolis are situated on the summit of a lofty rock on the opposite side of the river, the banks ol which are fringed with gardens, wherever its waters could be raised for the purposes of irrigation. Of the Acropolis nothing now remains but a portion of the walls and towers, and an ancient subterranean passage of 300 ft. in depth, at the bottom of which is a well of clear cold water. In remote times, a flight of steps led to this subterranean fountain ; but these are now either entirely worn away, or filled up with mud. On the highest point of the rock on which the Acro polis stands, are some remains of two Hellenic towers, of beautiful construction. The other objects of greatest interest in this ancient city, are the tombs of the kings, described by Strabo, who was born here. They are five in number, and consist of excavations in the steep face of the rock on which the castle is built, about 100 ft. above its base. Three of these caverns face W. and E. ; the former are very accessible, being approachable by an open gallery scooped out of the perpendicular face of the cliff, and protected by a low parapet of rock which has been left. The import trade of Amasia is insignificant, but a considerable traffic is carried on in wine, grain, madder, cotton, and particularly silk, the quantity of which, produced in 1841, was 132,000 Ibs. European agents exported about 14,000 Ibs. the same year. The raw silk of Amasia was long badly prepared, and thought unfit for the English market; the quality has lately much improved. Nothing is known of the early history or foundation of Amasia, beyond the information imparted by its ancient coins, that after the conquest of Asia Minor by the Romans, and during the whole continuance of the empire, it bore the title of Metropolis of Pontus. On the earlier coins, the name is spelled Amasseia; and on those struck under the early Roman emperors, Amasia. As already mentioned, Strabo, the ancient Greek geographer, was born in this city, of which he gives a very lively and graphic account, much of it applicable to its present condition. The number of houses in the town are about 4000, of which 350 are inhabited by Armenians. (Hamilton s Asia Minor.) AMATAKA. See YORK ISLAND. AMAT1TLAN, or AMITITAN, a tn. and lake, Central America, state Guatimala. The town, about 15 m. S. the city of Guatimala, lat. 14 30 N.; Ion. 90 17 W., is irregu larly built; and none of the houses have more than the ground story; and are principally constructed of mud, beaten hard with a wooden mallet, after being put into a wooden box of the dimensions of the walls, which box is moved from place to place till the desired height, length, and breadth are attained. Each house has a large yard, and a plantation of cactus attached to it, the leaves of which are cut and ranged in long narrow sheds to preserve the cochineal insect in the winter season. The wells in the town are all brackish ; and most of those in the vicinity, particularly in low situations, boiling hot, but perfectly clear and free from impurities. Amatitlan is a place of some antiquity, having been one of the principal seats of the Jesuits, who had large sugar estates in the vicinity. The inhabitants, nearly all mulattoes and sambos, are active, industrious, and enterprising. Pop. from 10,000 to 12,000. The LAKE is close by the town, to the S.E. It is about 11 or 12 m. in length, between 2 and 3 m. in breadth, and is of great depth. Immense quantities of pumice stone may generally be found floating on its waters, and lying on its shores. In many places around, springs of boiling water gush out, some of them emitting large volumes of steam. Two streams enter the lake, and one larger than both united, runs out of it. It contains a great abundance and variety of fish, including a species of small size, of exquisite flavour. (Dunlop s Central America ; Hassel s Guatimala.} AMATRICE, a tn. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra II., 21 m. N.N.W. Aquila, on a hill close by the source of the Tronto. It has five parish churches, two monts-de-piete, a high school, and manufactures of blankets. Pop. 5000. AMAXICIII, or AMAKIIUKHI, a tn., cap. Santa Maura, one of the Ionian Isles, on its N. coast; lat. 38 50 N.; Ion. 20 40 E. It stands on a sandy, fertile plain, in the neigh bourhood of unwholesome salt marshes, and is subject to frequent earthquakes. It has one wide street; houses gener ally of wood ; and a square, in which is the governor s house, and an ancient marble statue. It is the seat of a Greek bishop, and has numerous churches, two harbours for small vessels, manufactories of cotton and leather, and a considerable trade. At the distance of about 1 m. from the town, on a low sandy peninsula, is the castle of Santa Maura, which was taken by the British in 1810, and is now generally occupied by a British garrison. A few miles from the town, are still to be seen some remains of the ancient Leucas. Pop. 6000. (Murray s Handbook; Balbi, Abrtr/e de Geographic.) AM AXURA, a river, Florida , U. States, having its source in the Seminole swamps ; lat. 28 15 N.; Ion. 81 57 W. It flows first in a N.W. direction, then S.W. and W., till it falls into the Gulf of Florida, about 4 m. S. from Green Island : lat. 28 30 N. Its whole course is about 80 m. AMAY, a rural can. Belgium, prov. Liege, on the road from Liege to Namur, traversed E. to W. by the Meuse. The inhabitants are principally brickmakers, and in spring leave their homes in hundreds to ply their trade in distant quarters, returning in winter. The canton has alum works, and some trade in wood and dried fruits. Pop. 2848. AMAZON, MARAXON, ORELLANA, or SOLIMOES, the various names given to a large river in S. America, but better and more generally known by the first. It rises in the Andes, on the W. coast of S. America, traverses the entire breadth of that vast continent from W. to E., and falls into the N. Atlantic Ocean, about Ion. 50 W. ; a distance, includ ing the windings of the stream, of 4000 m. It drains an area, according to some authorities, of two millions and a half, and, according to others, of one million and a half of square miles ; is navigable for 2200 m. from the sea, and is 96 m. wide at its mouth. It is thus the largest river on the globe as regards the volume of its waters, which is so powerful as to force its way into the ocean, without mingling with the latter, to a distance of 300 m. ; but, according to Berghaus, it is inferior to the Missouri-Mississippi in the length of its course, when AMAZON lit; AMAZUMA taken by the windings, although greater when taken in a direct line. The numbers given by him are Amazon, direct course, 1781 m.; winding, 3548; Missouri-Mississippi, direct, 1681 111.; winding, 4096 m. Some geographers assume the source of the Amazon to be the Tunguragua or Upper Marafion ; and others, the Ucayale and Apurimac; the former originating in the Lake Lauricaeha, Peru ; lat. 10 30 S.; Ion. 76 25 W. ; the Apurimac, the principal head stream of the Ucayale, rising in lat. 15 38 S.; Ion. 75 W., about 90 m. W. the Lake of Titicaca. From the junction of the Tunguragua and Ucayale, which takes place near St. Joaquim de Omagnas, after their having been increased by numerous large tributaries about lat. 4 25 S.; Ion. 72 30 W., to the junction of the Rio Negro, the river is frequently called the Solimoes ; and from the junction of the latter stream to the ocean, it bears the name Amazon or Amazonas. The course of the river may be described generally as W. to E. from the junction of the Ucayale and Tunguragua, though not without occasional and sometimes wide deviations. During its course, it is joined by various tributaries from both the N. and S., some of them very large streams. Of this class is the Rio Negro, which flows from the N., and falls into the Amazon in Ion. 60 W., after a course of 1400 or 1500 m.; and the Madeira, not greatly inferior in size to the Amazon itself, from the S., which joins the latter in about Ion. 58 30 W., after a course of about 1800 m. The head stream of this affluent, the Rio Grande, or Guapai, which unites with the Beni in forming the Madeira, rises S. of the Andes of Cochabamba, in the same plateau from which flows the Pilcamayo, an affluent of the Paraguay; and the sources of the Guapore, an E. branch of the Madeira, flow within 3 m. of the waters of the Aguapehi, one of the head streams of the Paraguay ; by so narrow a watershed are the waters of the Amazon and La Plata at these localities parted. Two other large tributaries are the Coqueta or Japura, which, flowing from the N., falls into the Amazon in Ion. 05 W. ; and the Napo, which, proceeding also from the N., joins it at 71 30 W. At this point, which is about 125 in. from the junction of the Tunguragua with the Ucayale, its breadth is 900 fathoms, and its depth more than 1 00. Between the confluence of the Negro, Ion. 60 W., and the Madeira, Ion. 58 30 W., its breadth is about 3 m., extending occasionally to twice that breadth, j where islands are numerous, as they are, indeed, throughout the whole course of the river. The width of the river gradu ally increases towards its embouchure, until its opposite banks can hardly be discerned. Its general depth from the sea to the Rio Negro, or from Ion. 50 to 60 W., about 750 in. in a straight line, is nowhere less than 30 fa thoms ; higher up, it varies from 10 to 12; and is navigable by the largest vessels up to the junction of the Tunguragua and Ucayale. Be yond this point, none drawing more than oor 6 ft. water can proceed with safety. The Ucayale, which flows through the Pampas del Sa cramento, is so obstructed by ra pids and catar acts, as to render navigation far above its junction witli the Tunguragua quite impossible. The navigation of the Amazon is in many places not without danger, from numerous shoals, from the narrowness of its channels, and, in the lower part of its course, from floating trees brought down by the Madeira. In 1848, a steamer ascended the river as far as the Rio Negro. The rapidity of the stream is considerable, especially during the rainy season, when it is subject to great floods, being, on an average, about 2| m. per hour ; in some places it is 4 in. per hour ; in others less than the lowest velocity named. In the last 700 m. of its course it falls but 12 ft., or one-fifth of an inch per mile. In the dry season, its rapidity is greatly diminished. The river is perceptibly affected by the tides as far up as the town of Obidos, or about 400 m. from its mouth. The singular phenomenon, known by the name of the bore, occurs at the mouth of the Amazon two days before, and two days after the full moon. This is the rushing of the waters of the ocean into the river, in the form of huge waves, of from 10 to 15 ft. perpendicular height, three or four of which follow each other in succession, with irresistible force. This great river traverses a region thickly covered with dense and lofty forests, inhabited by wild animals and numerous small tribes of sav ages. It abounds in fish and in turtle, and large alligators are frequently seen lying motionless on its muddy banks. The Amazon being navigable, as already remarked, for 22UO m. from the sea, and having a communication with the Orinoco by the Cassiquiare, the S. arm of its bifurcation, which falls into the Rio Negro, presents, in conjunction with its principal tributaries all of them also navigable for great distances from their junction with the main stream a system of inland water communication more extensive than is to be found on any other part of the globe. Tributaries. The known tributaries of the Amazon worth noticing, besides those already named, are the Hyabary, or Juvary, which joins the Amazon at Ion. 69 30 W. ; the Jutay, at Ion. 67 W.; the Jurua, at Ion. 65 30 W.; the Tefe, at Ion. 65 W. ; the Cavary, at Ion. 64 W. ; the Mania, at Ion. 63 W. ; the Puru or Purus, at Ion. 60 30 W. ; the Tapajos, at Ion. 55 W. ; and the Xingu, the last of the large tributaries, at Ion. 52 W., all proceeding from the S. From the N., the only river of note that joins the Amazon, so far as is known, besides those mentioned elsewhere, namely, the Napo, the Japura, the Negro, is the Putumaya, which falls into it at Ion. 68 W., after a course of about 1000 m. All these rivers unite with the Amazon below the junction of the Ucayale with the Tunguragua. The mouth of the Amazon was discovered in the year 1500, by Viscount Yanez Pin9on ; but the first European who descended its stream was Francis d Orellana, a Spaniard, who, in 1539, sailed from the Rio Napo to the embouchure of the Amazon. It was this adventurer who first reported the existence of a community of female warriors on the banks of the river, who were without the right breast, which they had removed while young, in order to permit of a free nseof the bow,and hence the name Amazon, which signifies, want ing a breast, now the popular name of the stream. The name Orel- lana, by *vvhich it is also known, was derived from the Spanish ad venturer above spoken of. The origin of its third name, Maraiion, is uncertain, but is believed to be derived from that of an Indian na tion, by which some parts of its banks was inhabited. (Som merville s Physical Geography; Lyell s Geology; Lieut. Smyth s Account of the Rivers Amazon and Negro E. Pouppig s Travels in Chili, Peru, and on the Amazon River; Ilumboldt s Aspects of Nature; &c.) AMAZUMA, a large tn. W. Africa, 1. bank of the Niger ; about lat. 5 10 N. ; Ion. 6 1(X E. It is beautifully situated, AMBABICOI 117 AMBLETEUSE and lias a cheerful anil cleanly appearance. (Allen s Niger Expedition.) AMBABICOI, a vil. Lower Egypt, 58 m. N.W. Cairo; lat. 30 17 N.; Ion. 30 21 E.; in the Natron valley. AMBALECrA, a tn., isl. Madura, Indian Archipelago. It lies near the centre of the island, is surrounded by fine wood, has a temple, and 4000 inhabitants. AMBAT1KI, an isl., S. Pacific, one of the Fecjcc group, of a dome shape, and rising to a height of 750 ft.; lat. 17 47 S.; 3on. 179H W. (it.) It has little wood, but produces yams, and other edible vegetable productions, in abundance. Pigs are also numerous, but the natives do not willingly part with them. When visited by Commander Wilkes, of the U. States Explor ing Expedition, there were 500 inhabitants on the island; whom that officer represents as being civil, letting them have taro and yams in plenty. AMBATO, or HAMBATO (ASIENTO D ), a tn. Ecuador, 100 m. S.E. Quito. It was destroyed in 1698 by an erup tion of the volcano of Cotopaxi. It was rebuilt shortly after wards, and soon became more flourishing than before. It has some good buildings, and an active trade in grain, sugar, and cochineal ; the latter being produced in the vicinity in abund ance, and of excellent quality. AMBAU, or AMBOW, a small isl., S. Pacific, one of the Feejee group, connected with a larger island by a coral reef, fordable at high water ; lat. 16 30 S. ; Ion. 178 E. It is only 1 m. in length, and about half a mile in breadth ; but is of importance from having a large town of the same name, from its being the seat of a kind of sovereign authority, and from its chiefs having obtained a political ascendancy over the neighbouring islands. The town entirely covers the island. The inhabitants, like those of the Feejee Islands generally, are savage and treacherous ; and have, on more than one occa sion, murdered the captains and crews of vessels visiting the island, previously throwing them off their guard by professions of friendship. AMBELAK1A, or AMPELAKIA, a tn. European Turkey, prov. Thessaly, or Trikhala, on the S. slope of Mount Ossa, above the pass of Tempe, 15 m. N.E. Larissa. Ambelakia was at one time famous for its cotton yarn spinning, and dyeing ; but the former has been nearly annihilated by the cheaper productions of England. The trade was, at the time above alluded to, carried on upon joint-stock principles, the work people sharing in the profits ; but misunderstandings amongst themselves, failures abroad, and the successful rival- ship of Britain, put an end to the prosperity of the town. The town is still, from its romantic site, and the fine scenery around, a place of interest to the traveller. The heights in the vicinity are covered with vineyards, from the produce of which an excellent wine, resembling claret, is produced. The pop. in 1798 was 4000 ; it rose to 8000 ; and has now sunk below 3000. Many of the inhabitants are said to be Germans, though all wear the Eastern dress. AMBER, or AMBHEER, a tn. Hindoostan, the anc. cap. of the Jeypoor territories in Ajmeer; lat. 26 57 N. ; Ion. 75 40 E. ; about 5 m. N. by E. Jeypoor, now the capital. The town lies on the bank of a small lake surrounded by steep mountains. It is now in ruins, and nearly depopulated ; but its former grandeur is attested by its lofty pagodas, large reservoir, and numerous arches and pavilions, through which a narrow winding street leads to a second steep ascent, paved with granite, and conducting through several Gothic gateways to the ancient palace of the rajah, still in good preservation. The stone and marble sculpture, and other ornaments of the interior of this edifice, are surpassed only by those of the celebrated Taje Mahal, at Agra. Higher up the hill stands a grim-looking castle, formerly used as the public treasury, but now as a state prison. The royal gardens occupy a small island in the lak e, and part of its E. bank. (Hamilton s East India Gaz. ; Heber s Journal.) AMBER, AMBRE, or AMBRO (CAPE), Madagascar, of which it forms the N. extremity ; lat. 1 1 57 30" S. ; Ion. 49 19 E. (R.) It is a low point of land, terminating in a ledge of rocky islets, having 15 fathoms close to them, and 20 or 25 fathoms about half a mile distant. The currents set generally strong to the W. all the year from this point. AMBERG, a tn. Bavaria, formerly cap. of Upper Palat inate, on both sides of the Vils, which divides it into the upper and lower town ; 35 m. E. Nuremberg. It is enclosed within a double wall, now used as a public walk ; is well built, and has broad and clean streets; and contains a lyceum, gym nasium, theological seminary, normal school, public library, several well-endowed hospitals, 10 churches, convent for noble ladies, theatre, and house of correction. Among the principal buildings are the palace royal, arsenal, salt magazine, church of St. Martin, and the guildhall. It has a royal manu factory of arms, which produces yearly from 10,000 to 20,000 muskets of the best quality; and also manufactures of cotton stuff s, hats, playing cards, tobacco, and stoneware ; with a considerable trade in salt. The principal glassworks of Ba varia are here ; but the town is chiefly indebted for its pros perity to its iron mines, which annually produce about 8000 tons of ore. In the vicinity there is a seam of coal, and both porcelain clay and fuller s earth are found. Here, on August 24, 1796, the Archduke Charles defeated the rearguard of the French army under General Jourdan. Pop. 11,000. AMBERGRIS ISLAND, an isl. off the coast of Hondu ras, and in the bay of that name, 30 m. N.N.E. Belize. The E., or Reef point, is in lat. 18 6 N. ; and Ion. 87 50 W. (R.) ; the N. end admitting a passage for boats between that and the main. It is ahout 20 m. in length, and 3 broad, running N.N.E. and S.S.W. AMBERLEY, a par. England, co. Sussex; 3030 ac. Pop. in 1841, 722. AMBERT, a tn. France, dep. Puy-de-Dome (Auvcrgne), on the Dore, cap. arrond., 36 m. S.E. Clermont. It is, in general, well built, but the streets are narrow and crooked, and have rather a dull and gloomy appearance. Ambert is rather a stirring place. It is the seat of a court of primary jurisdiction, and one of commerce, and has a communal college, a chamber of manufactures, and an agricultural society. Manufactures: Woollen stuffs, flag bombazine for ships, blankets, serges, ribbons, lace, linens, pins, and playing cards. Above 60 factories are employed in making fine printing paper. Ambert is the principal mart for Auvergne cheeses, which are much esteemed in France. In the neighbourhood are the cold mineral waters of Talaru. The arrond. area about 170 sq. m. contains eight cans. Pop. arrond. 92,940 ; tn. 3658. AMBLANGODDE, a large vil. Ceylon, about 23 m. S. Caltura, and 19 N. Galle. The houses are mostly covered with tiles. The inhabitants are employed in fishing, and in the coasting trade between Ceylon and the coast of Coroman- del. There is a school here belonging to the Wesleyari mis sionaries. (Ceylon Gaz.) AMBLAU, a small isl. Indian Archipelago, one of the Moluccas, 12 m. S.E. Booro, and 45 m. S.W. Amboina; lat. (N.E. point) 3 49 S. ; Ion. 127 10 E. (R.) It is egg-shaped, hilly, intersected by various streamlets, and is the most un fruitful island in the Dutch government of Amboina. On its shores and coasts, shell fish and various kinds of sea fish are found, but the poor inhabitants derive the principal part of their food from the neighbouring island of Booro. It was at one time populous, but now contains only about 2000 inhab itants. (Van der Aa.) AMBLESIUE, a market tu. and chapelry, England, co. Westmorland. The town is 11 m. N.W. Kendal, picturesquely situated on the steep declivity of a hill, near the head or N. extremity of Lake Windermere. It is very old, and is irregularly built; but in the immediate vicinity there arc many handsome houses and villas, with beautiful gardens attached; and in the town are a church, rebuilt in 1812, and a free school, founded in 1721. Woollen cloth is manufac tured here to a considerable extent ; and petty sessions are held in it. It is also one of the polling places for the county. Market day, Wednesday; two fairs annually for honied cattle and sheep. A number of Roman remains have been found here at various times. Pop. in 1841, 1281. AMBLESTON, a par., S. Wales, co. Pembroke; 3 m. N. by E. Haverfordwest. Pop. in 1841, 605. AMBLETEUSE, a small seaport tn. France, formerly of some importance, hut now much decayed, dep. Pas de Calais, 5 m. N. Boulogne-sur-mer. In 1804, Napoleon, during his threatened invasion of England, made much use of Ambleteuse for his flat-bottomed boats; and he gave orders for the im provement of the harbour, but the accumulations of the sand rendered the attempt fruitless. James II., on his flight from England in 1689, landed here. Pop. 573. AMBLEVE 118 AMBOISE AMBLEVE. a river which rises in the Prussian prov. of the Lower Rhine, 5 m. S.S.E. Butgenbach, flows W., and enters Belgium by prov. Liege, and falls into the Ourthe at Donflamme, 10 m. S. Liege. It has a course of about 50 m., of which the last 7 are navigable. AMBOINA, or AMBOYNA [Malay, Ambun dew], an isl. Indian Archipelago, the most important, though not the largest, of the Moluccas, cap. of same name, lying S. of Ceram, and E. of Booroo; lat. (Allavy point) 3 46 S.; Ion. 127 59 E. (R.) It is the seat of the Dutch governor of the residence or government of Amboina, which includes, besides the island of Amboina, Booroo, Amblau, Ceram, Manipa, Kilung, Bo- noa, Harookoo, Honimoa or Sapai-ooa, Noosa-laut or Hila, in all of which are under governors, and military posts. The island of Amboina is composed of two sections, the N. W. and larger Hitoo, and the S.E. Le.itimor, united by the narrow isthmus of Bagoovala, not more than half an hour s walk across. Between these two peninsulas is a deep bay, forming the roadstead of the capital, Amboina. The island is about 30 m. long, by 10 m. in breadth, at its broadest part, though generally it is not above 5 or 6 m. ; area, 282 sq. m. It is subject to earthquakes, and of primitive formation, granite in some localities rising even to the summits of the mountains, while in others it underlies serpentine and recent calcareous deposits; in the valleys the soil is a reddish clay, mixed with sand. The island is rocky and hilly ; some of its heights are rounded, and covered with a rich verdure ; some, of medium altitude, have the tops bare of vegetation, and others are only covered with briers; but the dark valleys, and the shore tracts, have a rich and vigorous vegetation. The size of the island does not admit of large rivers, but there are numerous brooks and torrents, and good water for culinary purposes is plentiful. Stiil, the island is not very fully cultivated; in fact, when compared with Java,, the cultivated tracts may be said to be. as rare as in that fertile island are those that are uncultivated. This state of things probably arises from several causes. Though the valleys of Amboina are rich, and capable of growing almost all tropical plants, yet a great part of the island is arid and rocky, unsuited for general agri culture, though admirably adapted for raising the clove tree; to the cultivation of which the small energies of the native population have been in a great measure exclusively directed by the Dutch Government, at one time even by compulsion. Cloves, consequently, are the staple product of the island, the annual quantity produced being about 500,000 to 600,000 Ibs. The tree (Caryophyllus aromaticus] from which this valuable spice is obtained, is about 30 to 40 ft. high ; branches not much spread; leaves small, oblong; bark dirty white; and does not yield the clove till 15 years old. The average annual produce of a tree is variously stated at 2 to 6 Ibs., gathered in October and November. Another reason for Amboina not being more extensively cultivated is the ease with which the people obtain sago, their favourite food, from the palm, which grows plentifully in the woods. The pepper plant grows on the island; and coffee, cotton, indigo, and cinnamon, are cultivated with success; rice has been neglected, and is imported from Celebes. Among the trees of Amboina are ebony, ironwood, casuarina, samar, nani, cocoa nut, sago; yet building timber is scarce, and has to be imported from Java. The fauna of the island is poor. It has no carnivorous animals ; the rodents are only the Mus decumanus and one allied species ; edentata there are none; pachyderms, only the wild hog and the horse; the deer represents the ruminants; the dugong, the antarctic and sperm whale, the cetacean ; and there are no inonotremata. Birds are more abundant than mauiniit erous animals, though by no means numerous in species. The most remarkable is the megapodius, a small gallinaceous fowl found also plenti fully in Australia. Insects are numerous, the class lepidop- tera being more especially rich in species, of the most brilliant hues. The seas around the island teem with mollusca, in tin; shells of some species of which a considerable trade is carried on. The animal world of Amboina has been supposed to be much more varied than it really is, from specimens in Euro pean collections having that island ascribed to them as their habitat, while in reality obtained from other localities they have merely been brought to Amboina, and shipped there. The climate of this island is healthier, and more agreeable, than the generality of intertropical localities. The natives, of Malay race, are of medium stature; mild, though very proud; easily led, though querulous ; and generally very sober; capital crimes are rare. They make good soldiers, and are fond of military life. In costume, they resemble the Malays of Java. Many of the natives have been converted to Christianity, under the care of the Dutch, and are dis tinguished from the Mahometan population by a peculiarity in their dress. Considerable attention is paid to education, of which Amboina is the head quarters for all the surrounding islands. Native indolence and apathy, however, present strong barriers to rapid progress either in religion or educa tion. The Mahometan religion was established in Amboina in 1515, the year in which the island was discovered by the Portuguese, who took possession of it in 1564, and introduced the K. catholic faith. In 1605 the Dutch coveted the island, and expelled the Portuguese, and introduced Protestantism. In 1796 it was captured by the British, and was restored to the Dutch in 1801, at the peace of Amiens; but was again taken in 1810, and finally restored to Holland in 1814, at the treaty of Paris. Besides Amboina, the capital, there are several villages, and two or three forts on the island. Pop. in 1841, 29,592. (Temrninck, Coup d ceil sur VInde Neer- landaise; Van der Aa s Nederlanden; Moniteur des Indes; Crawford s Indian Archipelago.) AMBOINA, or AMBOYNA, cap. isl. above named, and of the Dutch residence or government of Amboina, Moluccas; lat. (Fort Victoria) 3 41 7" S.; Ion. 128 10 E. (R.) ; on that part of the island called Leitimor, S.E. side of the Bay of Amboina. It is of a triangular form, and is clean, neat, and regularly built, with straight and wide streets, intersected by numerous streams, planted on either side with shrubbery. The houses, built in the Dutch fashion, are generally of one story, on account of the frequency of earthquakes. It has a governor s palace, townhouse, two Protestant churches, one for European, the other for native Christians; an orphan hospital, theatre, and a large covered market place. A public garden is attached to the town ; and a range of houses, adorned by a double row of nutmeg trees, and occupied by the prin cipal inhabitants, terminates in a long esplanade, leading to the citadel of Fort Victoria, an irregular hexagon built by the Portuguese, which, besides the usual appurtenances of such strongholds, has stores for the annual produce of the clove plantations. The population of Amboina is composed of Malays, Europeans, and Chinese. The latter reside princi pally on the W. quarter, where there is a large and well- stocked market, supplied with most of the luxuries and neces saries of the climate. The BAY of Amboina is about 20 m. long, by 2 to 7 broad ; the roads secure and commodious, and the anchorage good ; vessels may moor close to the wooden jetty on which goods are discharged, in from 20 to 45 fathoms. The outer bay has neither shallows nor reefs dangerous to vessels, and everywhere it has a depth of about 50 fathoms. Pop. of tn. (which seems to be decreasing) in 1841, 8966. (Moniteur des Indes; Van der Aa; &c.) AMBOISE [anc. Ambacia], a tn. France, dep. Indre-et- Loire, 12 m. E. Tours, on the railway between that tn. and Orleans, 1. bank of the Loire, whose bed is here divided by a long narrow island, connected with the opposite banks by two bridges, one of them a handsome wooden structure, with stone AMB01SES 119 AMBROSE (S-r) piers. The town, though picturesquely situated at the foot of a considerable acclivity, crowned with an antique castle (the site, it is said, of a fort built by Julius Caesar), is not well built, and has rather a dull appearance. The castle, already mentioned, which is the most remarkable building near Amboise, was the residence of several successive kings; it stands in a terraced garden, about 90 ft. above the level of the town, and is flanked by two enormous towers. It was in AMHOISE. Fi this castle that the unhappy Pluguenots, engaged in what is known as the Conspiracy of Amboise, met their doom. So great was the carnage, that the stench of the dead bodies, which hung as headless trunks on the castle walls, or lay scattered along the river, drove away the court. In a cliff a little above the castle, near the old Convent des Minimes, are two caverns, called Cesar s granaries, hewn out of the rock. They have beautiful, Mondoleh, is about half a mile in length ; it rises abruptly from the sea to a height of about 200 ft., and is steep on all sides. It is covered with a rich soil of decomposed basalt, and with very little labour yields yams, plantains, cocoa nuts, &c. ; magnificent trees of bombax, African oak, camwood, ironwood, &c., also abound in it. There are like wise several springs of water. Notwithstanding these ad vantages, the island is but thinly peopled. Abobbi, or Pirate Island, is a mere accumulation of huge frag ments of rock piled upon each other in the wildest confusion; but numerous clusters of native huts, nestling Ln the crevices, or perched on open spaces, overhung by cliffs crowned with beautiful foliage, give it a singularly picturesque appearance. Capt. Allen s account of his land ing on this wild rocky islet is amusing. Having previously propitiated the chief with a bottle of rum, the captain, accompanied by two officers, lauded on a small pebbly bay. Here, he con tinues, we looked in vain for a path leading to the summit, or inhabited part, which was already covered with black heads, anxiously watching our progress. Two kings met us, and showed a narrow ledge, which seemed to be perfectly inaccessible, except to goats. They were desired to lead the way, and we followed up what appeared to be the edge of a basaltic dyke, where hands were as much in requisition as feet. We scrambled up, however, as fast as their more practised Majesties, to the great admiration of the crowd on the summit. It was rather a nervous feat, as one false step would have dashed us to atoms. The congregated huts were found to be swarming with chil dren, goats, dogs, pigs, &c. The people are robust and healthy looking, having, apparently, abundance of the necessaries of life; they chiefly subsist by fishing, exchanging the produce of the sea for vegetables, bananas, yams, &c., with their each four stories, access to which is obtained by means of a i.eighbours on the mainland. The other principal island stone stair, and are all regularly paved and vaulted with called Dameh. The habitations of the people here are superior stone, and carefully plastered over with fine cement. The to those of Abobbi, or Pirate s Island. They occupy the belief is, that Caesar, having fortified a camp on the cliff centre and highest part of the island, the sloping sides afford- above, employed these caverns as storehouses. Within the | ing browsing to numerous goats. There is no cultivation, town, the only building worthy of notice is the parish church I and but a poor supply of water. The inhabitants are civil of St. Denis, which was built by St. Martin; and in the I and inoffensive, and live also chiefly by fishing. Previous to cemetery of which there is a very singular allegorical group, i 1833, no European intercourse existed with these islands. consisting of se\ en standing figures, in eastern costume, ap- (Allen s Niger Expedition.) parently representing the solemn scene of our Saviour s burial, AMBOLO, or AMBOULE, a rich and beautiful valley, but said to be exact likenesses of some of the worst char- with a tn. and stream of the same name, isl. Madagascar, acters, male and female, that figured in the licentious court of Francis I. The manufactures of Amboise are drabs, drug get, and bombazine; also files, rasps, and blistered steel, which last bears a high name. The chief commerce is in wine, brandy, and vinegar. It was in this town, in 1560, that the Calvinists first were called Huguenots, a word of German origin, and intended as an epithet of contempt and disgrace, but which merely signifies confederates. Pop. 4859. fop. AMJ5OISES BAY and ISLANDS, on the S.W. coast, Africa, bight of Biafra. The BAY is about 17 m. N.W. the mouth of the Cameroons river, and directly opposite the N.E. extremity of the island of Fernando Po; lat. 4 N.; Ion. 9 1 2 E. The district in which it is situated is extremely mountainous ; one isolated peak near the bay rising to a height of about 5000 ft., while the highest summit of a range a little further N. attains an elevation of 13,760 ft. The peak of this mountain, says Capt. Allen, which the natives call Monga-ma Lobah, or God s Mountain, from its great height, and from its having been seen, as they assert, to emit fire, was often lighted up most brilliantly by the morning sun, while the deep shadows thrown across its base involved all the lower part in gloom, hiding the deep ravines which furrow its rugged sides. The hills are clothed to within a tl their summit with beautiful forest trees, and are inter prov. Anosy. The valley produces, in great abundance, rice, manioc, sugar cane, coffee, citrons, cloves, and other spices, besides grazing numerous herds of cattle. It contains also hot springs, of a high temperature, and medicinal quality; and mines of iron. The town lies in lat. 24 15 S.; Ion. 47 E. AMBOLON, one of the smaller Philippine Islands, S.W. Mindoro; lat. 12 9 N.; Ion. 121 12 E. (u.) AMBRIERES, a small tn. France, dep. Mayenne, and 21 m. N.N.E. Loval ; well built, and pleasantly situated on the Mayenne. It lias some manufactures of calicoes, and possesses excellent market halls, formed out of the buildings of an old castle, which itself is not without interest. Pop. 1221. AMBRIZ (CAPE and BAY), Africa, W. coast. The cape is in lat. 8 2 S.; Ion. 13 10 E. The bay lies to the N. of the cape; it is difficult of entrance, but affords good nchorage within. AMBROOK ISLAND, a small isl. Russia, prov. Li vonia, in the gulf of that name m the Baltic, about 21 m. N.E. Demesnes Point. AMBROSDEN, a par. England, co. Oxford; area, 5210 rd of | ac. ; 2i m. S.E. by S. Bicester. Pop. in 1841, 892. ted i AMBROSE (ST.), an isl., S. Pacific Ocean, about 500 m. by valleys covered with the richest soil. The entire region { W. from Chili, and 12 or 14 m. E. the Island of St. Felix; bay is evidently of volcanic origin, although it lat. 26 21 S. ; Ion. 80 60 W. (R.) At a distance it I]>]K MI S around the appears to have been in a state of repose for ages. The like two small islands, but on a nearer view the two parts are salubrity of this particular part of the African coast is spoken found to be connected by a reef. About 4 m. to the N. is a of by Capt. Allen in strong terms of commendation. The | large rock called, from its appearance, the Sail Rock. Seals, ISLANDS in the bay are all small, but the appearance of some I crabs, and crawfish, abound on the island, on which traces of of them is exceedingly picturesque. The largest and most volcanic eruptions are visible. AMBROSETOWN 120 AMERICA AMBROSETOWN, a par. Ireland, co. Wexford; area, 2197 ac. Pop. in 1841, 690. AMBRYN, or AiiBRYM,an isl. New Hebrides, S. Pacific, about 35 to 40 ra. E. the Island of Mallicollo or Mani- colo; lat. 16 14 S. ; Ion. 168 24 E. (R.) This island is the scat of an active volcano, forming one of the Australian volcanic series. It is fertile, and contains a fair proportion of inhabitants. AMBUKOL, avil. Nubia, 1. bank, Nile; lat. 18 4 31"N.; Ion. 31 34 46" E. (i,.) ; about 8 m. W. from which is a waste named Haagbarlak, the superficial stratum of which is coarse sandstone, containing many silicious fossil trees; parts of which are splintered off by the peasantry and used as gun flints. The trees appear to be the doum palm (Cucifera Theba icd). AMED, AMID, EMID, or KARA AMID, that is, Black Amid, a name sometimes given to Diarbekr (which see). AMELAN1), an isl. Holland, prov. Friesland, from the N. shore of which it is about 6 m. distant, and 3 m. E. the Island of Schelling; lat. (beacon) 53 27 N.; Ion. 5 42 E. (R.); length, 13 m. ; greatest breadth, 3 m. It is a flat island, subject to inundations, that of 1825 carrying away 140 head of cattle. It is not well cultivated, though rye, barley, wheat, beans, pease, and potatoes, are grown, rye affording the best return. It has good pasture land, on which cattle and horses for export are reared ; but the major part of the population subsist chiefly by fishing and sea faring. Ameland has three Calvinistic and one R. catholic church, and five places of meeting for Baptists, who constitute nearly the half of the whole population. It has also four schools, an hospital, three storehouses for stranded goods, a royal breeding stud, and two cornmills. The inhabitants are a healthy, stout, affable race ; and the females are famed for their beauty, by some being reputed the best looking in Holland. Most of the young women, when they attain the age of 16, proceed to the mainland as domestic servants, and return after a few years ; their neat dress, slim figures, and blooming countenances, insure them ready employment. The island has three villages, Hollum, Ballum, and Nes. Pop. about 2100. AMELIA, or AMERIA, a small tn. Papal States, delega tion of, and 22 m. S.W. from Spoleto, upon a small hill ; the see of a bishop, erected in 344; having a cathedral, three churches, and some convents. It was the ancient Ameria, one of the oldest cities of Uinbria, and the birthplace of Roscius, the celebrated Roman actor, so frequently mentioned, and so much admired by Cicero. In the neighbourhood are grown the best grapes in Italy, known by the name of pizottllo. Pop. 5500. AMELIA, an isl. in the Atlantic Ocean, E. coast of U. States, Florida, co. Nassau, at the mouth of St. Mary s River ; lat. 30 42 N. ; Ion. 81 36 W. (R.) It is 15 m. long, and 4 broad. The capital is Fernandina, formerly also the capital of the county. The soil is fertile. AMELIE-LES-BA1NS, or ARLES-LE&-BAIHS, a vil. France, dep. Pyrenees-Orientales, 3 m. W. Ceret, 1. bank of the Mondoni, famous for well-frequented thermal springs, of a high temperature, strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen. Pop. 4G7. AMENI, or AMENY, one of the Laccadive Islands; lat. 1 1 6 N. ; Ion. 72 41 E. (it.) ; it is of a circular form, 1 or l m. in diameter, and surrounded by rocks to a small distance, close to which, on the W. side, there are soundings. AMERICA, one of the great divisions of the globe, and, with exception of Asia, the largest. It stretches from Point Barrow, lat. 71 24 N. (it.), to Cape Forward, the most S. point of the continent, on the Straits of Magalhaens, lat. 53 53 7" S. (R.) Horn Island, on which Cape Horn is situated, and the other islands forming the Archipelago of Tierra del Fuego, and which are considered as forming part of S. Ame rica, stretch between 2 and 3 degrees further S. It consists of two vast peninsulas, called respectively, North and South America, connected by the isthmus of Panama or Darien, which, at its narrowest part, is only 28 m. in breadth ; its general width being about 40 m. The near approach to entire separation between the two peninsulas is effected by the Gulf of Mexico, and the Caribbean Sea, which appear like vast excavations in the centre of the continent. The whole length of the American continent, in a straight line, is about 9UOO m. Its greatest breadth, S. of the equator, is between Cape St. Roque in Brazil, and Cape Parina in Peru, between lat. 4 and 7 S., where it is more than 3250 m. wide. N. of the equator, the greatest breadtli is near the parallel of 45, between Cape Canso in Nova Scotia, and Cape Lookout, where it is more than 3100 m. in width. It is bounded on the E. by the Atlantic Ocean, N. and S., which separates it from Europe and Africa; and on the W. by the Pacific Ocean, N. and S., which divides it from Asia and Australia. From Asia, however, it is separated by a narrow chan nel only, called Behring s Straits, not more than 48 m. ii; width at the narrowest part. The physical features of this great division of the globe are on the most gigantic scale. Here are the largest rivers and lakes in the world, the largest valley, and the loftiest mountains, with exception of the Himalayas, which, however, they greatly exceed in length; the most extensive forests, and the tallest trees. Here, also, is exhibited the greatest development of volcanic phenomena, the chain of the Andes furnishing the most magnificent example of linear volcanoes of any region in the world. Out of 270 active volcanoes, the estimated number of all in that state on the surface of the globe, 190 are on the shores and islands of America, being upwards of two-thirds of the whole. The climate of America is said to be colder than that of the opposite continents of Europe and Africa, the difference, it is alleged, being equivalent to about 8 or 10 degrees of latitude. In bodily conformation, the aboriginal tribes of America present remarkable similarities ; but their languages, though presenting many roots in common, are exceedingly various, amounting in number to no fewer than 600. Though differing considerably in general contour, the two great peninsulas present some remarkable points of resem blance. Both taper towards their S. extremities, and the form of both seems to have been in a great measure determined by a range and by a system of mountains ; on the W. by the Andes, and their continuations the Rocky or Oregon Moun tains, stretching from Tierra del Fuego to near the Arctic Ocean; and on the E. by the mountains of Brazil and the Alleghany or Appalachian Mountains ; the former in S., the latter in N. America. Both also are, to a great extent, com posed of three great river basins ; N. America by those of the Mississippi-Missouri, the St. Lawrence, and the Mackenzie ; S. America by those of the La Plata-Parana, Amazon, and Orinoco. Many other points of resemblance between the two peninsulas could be named, but it is thought unnecessary to do so here, as both their corresponding and distinctive features will be noticed under their respective heads. Besides the two grand divisions of America above spoken of, namely, N. and S , a third, called Central America, is recognized, comprehending those countries which lie between the 8th and 18th parallels of N. lat., and between 82 30 and 94 W. Ion. To avoid perplexity, this division will be found treated of as a subhead, following N. America, to which it properly belongs. NORTH AMERICA lies between the 20th degree of N. lat. and the Arctic Ocean. It is of more irregular form than S. America, but of greater and more uniform breadth, and, consequently, of larger area. It is also more deeply indented with gulfs, bays, and inlets. Two extensive mountain chains run near and parallel, the one to its E., the other to its W. coast. Between these lies a vast plain, the largest in the ! world, stretching N. and S., from the Gulf of Mexico to the I Arctic Ocean. In this plain are situated the great lakes of ; N. America, and over its level surface flow its majestic rivers, including the Mississippi, the Mackenzie, and the St. Lawrence ; the one forming a S., the other a N., and the third an E. outlet for its superfluous waters. The more remarkable of its coast indentations and inlets are Baffin s Bay, Hudson s Bay, and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the E. coast ; the Gulf of Mexico, on the S. ; and the Gulfs of California, Georgia, and Cook s Inlet, on the W. Owing to its irregular form, the coast of N. America is very extensive ; its length, from Hudson s Straits to the Florida Channel, being about 4800 m. ; and from the latter, along the inland sea to Panama, about 4500. The whole length on the Pacific side to Behring s Straits, includ ing the Gulf of California, has been computed at 10,500 m. Of the extent of the N. and N.E. shores no conjecture has yet been hazarded, but it cannot, probably, be less than 3000 m. The entire extent will thus be, perhaps, about 22,800 m. Amongst the more remarkable physical characteristics of N. AMERICA AMERICA America are its sanely deserts, treeless steppes, marshes, and prairies ; the first stretch along the base of the Rocky Mountains to the 41st degree of N. lat., having an average breadth of 400 to 600 m. The steppes form another cheer less and extensive region in the N. parts of the continent, being parched in summer by scorching heat, and frozen in winter by intensely cold winds from the Rocky Mountains. The marshes of N. America occupy a large space, those towards the mouth of the Mississippi extending over 35,000 sq. m. The prairies or savannahs, peculiar characteristics of N. America, occur chiefly in the Mississippi valley. They consist of extensive, elevated, and generally irregular tracts, without trees, though sometimes capable of producing them, covered in the spring with long grass, intermingled with fragrant flowers. They are often, however, entirely barren, and may be traversed for many days without a shrub being met with, except on the banks of streams. Vast tracts are also occupied by forests, comprising, probably, not less than from 600,000 to 800,000 sq. m. Notwithstanding these large deductions, millions of acres of rich and fertile soil remain for the subsistence of man. Mountains. Of these there are four principal systems in N. America. The Oregon or Rocky Mountains a continua tion of the Andes, the Sea Alps of California, the Sea Alps of the N.W. coast, and the Alleghanies or Appalachian Moun tains on the E. coast. The Oregon Mountains stretch along the W. coast at a distance varying from 50 to 300 m. from the sea. The highest part is between lat. 42 and 53 N., where several peaks rise far above the snow line. Of these, Mount Hooker attains an elevation of 15,700 ft., and Mount Brown 15,990 ft. Further N., they decrease to 4000 and 2000 ft. The Sea Alps of California, and those of the N.W. coast, run parallel to the Oregons, but nearer to the sea, and are con nected with the latter by transverse ridges, the principal of which are the Snowy Mountains, said to equal the highest part of the Rocky Mountains in elevation. The Alleghanies or Appalachian Mountains stretch along the E. coast. They consist chiefly of four separate groups, crossing the country in the same general direction, from N.E. to S.W. Their mean elevation does not exceed 2500 ft. To this chain belongs the group of the White Mountains, in which is situated Mount Washington, 6620 ft. high, the culminating point of the entire system. Their whole area is computed at 2,000,000 sq. m. Rivers and Lakes. The principal rivers are the Missouri- Mississippi, and the St. Lawrence. The first is the largest river in N. America, and one of the greatest in the world, occupying, with its tributaries, the whole of the S. portion of the great central basin of this continent. It has its origin in the junction of streams from the Lakes Itaska and Ussawa, on the declivity of the Rocky Mountains, between lat. 42 and 43 N., and falls into the sea in the Gulf of Mexico in lat. 27 N. Its whole course, which is from N. to S., reckon ing the Missouri as the principal branch, is calculated to exceed 4400 m. It has obtained its double name from the Missouri forming about two-thirds of its earlier course. The St. Lawrence rises under the name of the St. Louis, in lat. 47 45 N. ; Ion. 93 W., flows N.E. by N., and falls into the Gulf of St. Lawrence at Gaspe s Point, by a mouth more than 100 m. wide. The other rivers ranking next in point of magnitude are the Arkansas, Red River, Ohio, and Mac kenzie, all, excepting the last, tributaries of the Mississippi, and having their sources in the Rocky Mountains. The Mackenzie issues from the Great Slave Lake, from which it flows nearly due N., and falls into the Arctic Sea about lat. 69 10 N. In the number and magnitude of its lakes, N. Ame rica is unequalled by any other quarter of the globe. They form one of its grandest natural features, and, in conjunction with its rivers, present a medium of commercial intercourse which no other country enjoys. The principal lakes are Lake Superior, Michigan, Huron, Ontario, and Erie, which together cover an area of 90,700 sq. m. The largest of these is Lake Superior, the mean length of which is 400 m. ; mean breadth, 80 in. The deepest are Lakes Michigan and Huron, the mean depth of which is 1000 ft., or about 167 fathoms. Following the chain of lakes which crosses the country in a N.W. direction, there occur Lakes Winnipeg, Woolaston, Deer Lake, Athabasca, Great Slave Lake, and Great Bear Lake. There are, besides these, many smaller, yet consider- Voi,. I. able lakes, such as St. Clair, midway between Lakes Huron and Erie; and the Lake of the Woods, between Lakes Superior and Winnipeg. Islands. In the Atlantic Ocean, the principal are New foundland, Anticosti, Prince Edward s Island, and Cape Breton, all at the mouth of the St. Lawrence ; the Bahama Islands, off the peninsula of Florida and the Gulf Stream ; and the W. India Islands, Cuba, Hayti or St. Domingo, Jamaica, Porto Rico, Santa Cruz, Antigua, Guadaloupe, Mar tinique, St. Lucia, Barbadoes, St. Vincent, Tobago, Trinidad, and several others. On the N.W. coast, the principal islands are Vancouver s Island, with an area of 30,000 sq. m. ; further N., Queen Charlotte s Island , then King George III. s Archi pelago, which contains, besides a number of small islands, Prince of Wales Island, Sitka Island, and Admiralty Island Next follow the Aleutian Islands, stretching W. from the peninsula of Aliaska. In Behring s Straits are the group of 1 ribylof and Nounivok, belonging to Russia. In the Arctic Ocean, there are a vast number of islands of which little com paratively is yet known. Besides these, there is a multitude of small islands and rocks scattered along the W. coast, par ticularly between Port San Francisco and Cape St. Lucas. Geology, Mineralogy, &c. A remarkable analogy exists in the structure of the land in N. America and Central and N. Europe. Gneiss, mica schist, and granite, prevail over wide areas in the Alleghanies ; on the Atlantic slope, and the N. latitudes of the American continent, and in the high and middle latitudes, the Silurian strata extend over 2000 m. Crystalline and Silurian rocks form the substratum of Mexico, for the most part covered with plutonic and volcanic forma tions and secondary limestone. The Rocky Mountains are mostly silurian, except the E. ridge, which is of stratified crystalline rocks, amygdaloid, and ancient volcanic produc tions. The coast chain has the same character, with immense tracts of volcanic rocks, both ancient and modern, especially obsidian. In N. America, volcanic action is entirely confined to the coast and high land along the Pacific. The principal minerals are gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, and coal. The first three are found in greatest abundance in Mexico, where there are nearly 3000 mines of gold and silver alone. Since 1848, however, the great field for gold gathering has been California, where large quantities have been obtained with little trouble ; and both silver and quicksilver have, in the same quarter, been found to abound. The silver supplied by the Mexican veins is extracted from a great variety of minerals, pure or native silver being of comparatively rare occurrence. Previous to the revolution of 1810, the annual average produce of the American mines amounted to 5,100,000; after the revolution, the amount fell to 2,337,500, the exports of specie falling, of course, in pro portion. The principal deposits of gold in the U. States, besides in California, occur in the primary rocks between the river Rappahannock in Virginia, and the Coosa in Alabama ; but it has also been found as far N. as Somerset in Vermont. The gravel is washed by negroes, who collect each about five pennyweights a day. The gold sent from this district to the mint of the U. States, between 1823 and 1836, amounted to $4,377,500 ; but the actual produce was estimated at twice this amount. The coal fields of N. America are of prodigious extent ; the Appalachian stretching, without interruption, 720 m., with a maximum breadth of 280, and occupying an area of 63,000 sq. m. The Pittsburgh seam, 10 ft. thick, exposed on the banks of the Monogahela, extends, horizon tally, 225 m. in length, and 100 in breadth, and covers an area of 14,000 sq. m. The coal is generally bituminous, similar to British ; but anthracite is also met with. Besides the coal fields named, there are various others of great extent in different parts of N. America, including New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Vancouver s Island. Iron, also, is worked in many parts of the States from Connecticut to S. Carolina. Salt is likewise widely diffused throughout great part of this continent. Climate. The predominating character of the climate of N. America is intense cold; although, in some parts, an oppressive heat prevails during a portion of the summer. In Ihitish America the thermometer rises, in July, 20 degrees higher than in London. Again, above the 50th degree of lat., the cold is so severe as to render the country all but uninhabitable ; while frosts occasionally occur as low down 16 AMERICA 122 AMERICA as the 30th degree of Lit. In winter, a keen and piercing N.W. wind prevails throughout all N. America, adding greatly to the natural rigour of the N. climate, and carrying its chilling influence into the more southerly regions. The transitions from cold to hot, or from winter to summer, are very sudden, especially in Canada, where there is little or none of the intermediate season of spring. The principal causes assigned for the greater degree of cold prevailing in N. America than in corresponding latitudes in other coun tries, are its immense chains of mountains with their cover ings of perpetual snow ; its prodigious forests, which prevent the solar rays from reaching the earth; and to the great breadth of that portion of it that lies within the Arctic circle. The sudden and extreme transitions from hot to cold, for which the climate of N. America, generally, is remarkable, is not, perhaps, so easily accounted for. These transitions, however, are said to be healthful. Hence Lower Canada, where the contrasts are greatest, is more healthy than Upper Canada ; and the latter than the U. States, where they are least, though still sufficiently marked. In the S. portions of N. America, some of which are within the tropics, the heat is occasionally excessive ; but even there the chilling influences of the N. regions are manifest, keen frosts being often experienced between 15 and 25 N. lat. As having, probably, some con nection with climate, the singular fact may be mentioned, that all over America the teeth are subject to early decay. Vegetation. The forests of N. America are of vast extent, and the individual trees of the most magnificent dimensions ; some of the former covering an area of 60,000 sq. m. ; and many of the latter attaining a height of 200 and 300 ft., with a circumference of 80. The forests of Canada consist chiefly of pines, oak, ash, hickory, red beech, birch, and the lofty Canadian poplar. Those of the U. States, of sycamore, chestnut, black walnut, hickory, maple, white cedar, wild cherry, red birch, locust tree, oak, ash, &c., and the tulip tree, the pride of the American forest. The arctic flora of America has much the same character with that of Europe and Asia. Maize, or Indian corn, the only important farinaceous plant peculiar to the new world, has a very extensive range in N. America ; although a strong heat, of considerable duration, is necessary to its successful cultivation. Millet, cocoa, pimento, vanilla, copaiba, cinchona, jalap, sassafras, nux vomica, to bacco, and the cochineal plant (Cactus cochinilifer), &c., are also indigenous. So likewise is the potato, now so widely diffused throughout Europe. Wheat, barley, oats, pease, and rice succeed well throughout large portions of the continent. So also do various kinds of fruit trees, such as oranges, peaches, lemons, and apples ; but the native fruits are mostly of the nut kind. Sugar, coffee, and cotton, are amongst its staple vegetable productions. The vine and tea plant have been tried, but hitherto without success. Zoology. The largest and most powerful of N. American beasts of prey are bears ; of which it possesses, besides those common to Europe, a species peculiar to itself, called the grizzly bear (Ursus ferox). This is the most formidable animal of the N. American continent. It is of such strength, that it can drag, with ease, the carcass of a buffalo of 1000 Ib.s. weight. It is of a fierce and vindictive disposition, and will readily attack any one who comes in its way. When irritated, it rears itself on its hind legs, emitting a loud, harsh, and rapid sound. It is said to extend as far S. as Mexico, and is known to inhabit the~Rocky Mountains and their eastern plains, at least as far as lat. 61 N. The white, or polar bear, though not peculiar to America, is found in great numbers on its northern coast, attaining a higher latitude than any other known quadruped. It is rarely seen at any distance from the sea, and seldom or never further S. than about the 55th par allel. The bison, or American buffalo (Bos Americanus), the largest native quadruped of the new world, is distributed over a great portion of the temperate regions of America. Its chief haunts, however, are the prairie lands of the Rocky Mountains, where they have been seen in herds of 10,000. They are, on the whole, inoffensive animals, though dangerous when roused. The bull has sometimes attained a weight of 2000 Ibs., but the average weight is from 12 to 14 cwt. It measures about 8J ft. in length, and above 6 ft. high at the fore quarter. The flesh is juicy and well flavoured, and the tongue and hump considered delicacies. The musk ox (Ovibos moschatus) is a small-sized animal, weighing only about 300 Ibs., exclusive of offal. It inhabits a great extent of barren land N. of the 60th parallel. The flesh is well flavoured, resembling that of rein deer, but coarser in the grain, and smeAling strongly of musk. The hair or wool is remarkably fine- Several species of the deer tribe are found in N. America. Of these, some inhabit marshy forests, some the wooded shores of rivers, or the sea, and others the bleak sides and barren valleys of mountain districts. The most remarkable are the moose deer or elk (Ccrvua alces), a gigantic animal when full grown, 6 ft. in height, with broad solid antlers, a single one of which has been known to weigh 56 Ibs. ; and the rein deer, the most northerly of all the ruminating animals. On the Rocky Mountains are found a race of sheep, and another of goats, peculiar to these elevated regions. The former, the Ilocky Mountain sheep, is much larger than the largest varie ties of the domestic breeds ; hair short, fine, and flexible ; and flesh said greatly to exceed in flavour the finest English mutton. It dwells amongst the most elevated and craggy ridges. The Rocky Mountain goat also inhabits the highest and least accessible summits. Its flesh is hard and dry, and rendered unsavoury by a strong musky flavour. It is covered with long hair, but beneath that there is a coating of wool, of the finest quality. The wolves and dogs of America are numerous, and some of them peculiar. The former are there, as everywhere else, savage and ferocious, especially when pressed by hunger. They will run down and devour deer and foxes ; and have been known to break into huts, and to kill and carry off the dogs they found there. The prairie wolf (Canis latrans) hunts in packs, and is an animal of great swiftness. It occurs on both sides of the Rocky Mountains, but is most numerous in the plains of the Missouri and Sas- katchawan. On the banks of the latter river, great numbers of the prairie wolves are seen to start from holes in the earth on hearing the report of a gun, being on the look-out for the offals of the slaughtered animal. Of the domesticated tribes of the canine race, there are several remarkable varieties in the northern regions of America. Amongst these are the well-known Newfoundland dog, and the Mackenzie river dog, a small, slight animal, of a playful and affectionate disposition. All the others are large and fierce. Foxes are also numerous, and of a great variety of species. The most worthy of notice are the American red fox (Cams fulvus), which inhabits the woody districts of the fur countries, and from which about 8000 skins are annually imported into England ; the kit fox, and the Arctic fox. Beavers, otters, racoons, opossums, hares, musk rats, marmots, squirrels, and porcupines, are amongst the smaller quadrupeds of N. America. The elephant and camel are unknown here, and monkeys are confined to the southern regions. Beasts of prey are few. and, with ex ception of bears, far from being formidable. Reptiles, how ever, are numerous, especially in the U. States, and some of them dangerous. The most noted of this class is the rattle snake (Crotalus). The longest attain a length of 6 ft. ; their bite is fatal to the largest animals, and to man also, unless a remedy is immediately applied ; and even in this case, the bad effects of the wound are said to be felt for life. The only animal secured against them is the hog, which feeds upon them. The pike-muzzled cayman (Crocodilus lucius), is a native of the southern States, and is found in the Mississippi. It grows to the length of 1 4 to 1 6 ft. Frogs and toads are also numerous ; the former include the bull frog, from 6 to 8 inches long, and so voracious that it will swallow young ducks and goslings whole; the latter, the Salamander gigantea, or gigantic salamander, measuring from 15 to 18 inches long Tortoises also abound in various parts of the U. States ; and sea turtles are found on the wanner parts of the coasts. The birds of this continent are very numerous, there being 471 species in N. America, of which number 371 are peculiar to that country. The list includes a variety of the eagle tribe, vultures, hawks, and owls. Wild turkeys are found in vast flocks in the woods of both Americas. Fish also abound in the N. American rivers, but none of them are sufficiently re markable to require any special notice here. They include the well-known kinds, sturgeon, salmon, trout, pike, and char. Races of Men. The origin of the American race is wholly unknown, although there has been no want of conjecture on the subject, most of it more plausible than satisfactory. This, however, is certain, that America was inhabited by a people AMERICA AMERICA who lived long antecedent to the present races or trihcs by which the soil is occupied, and regarding whom neither history nor tradition have preserved any record ; although many evi dences remain (see Antiquities, in articles MEXICO and YU CATAN) not only to prove the fact of their having existed, but to show that they had attained a degree of civilization altogether unapproached by the present native inhabitants. Amongst these evidences are stone walls, of regular masonry, and hearths of brick, found in digging the Louisville Canal ; medals of cop per and silver, swords, and implements of iron. The Indian tribes of America, with exception, perhaps, of the more westerly Esquimaux, have all so strong a resemblance to each other in physical formation, and also, though in a less obvious degree, in intellectual character, as to leave no doubt of their being of one family, and their having a common origin. They are, with the exception just made, of large size, robust, and well proportioned ; of a bronze or reddish complexion hence the name red men, which they have bestowed on themselves black hair, long, coarse, and shining; thin beard, low forehead, high eyebrows, prominent cheek bones, nose a little flattened, but well marked. Head of a square shape; face broad, and tapering towards the chin ; features, viewed in profile, pro minent, and deeply sculptured. Their moral character has been variously represented, sometimes better, and sometimes worse, than it really is. Excepting extraordinary powers of endurance, they seem to possess precisely the virtues and vices common to all savages, along with some good qualities, more rare, perhaps, amongst uncivilized tribes. They are grateful, hospitable, and capable, sometimes, of a savage mag nanimity; but they are also vindictive, cruel, and treacherous. Amongst their vices, of a more venal nature, is an unquench able passion for spirituous liquors. An idea very generally prevails that they are singularly grave and taciturn. Wash ington Irving gives them a very different character, as will be found in the following quotation from his Tour to the Prairies, the interest and novelty of which will be a sufficient apology for its length : They (the N. American Indians) are taciturn only when in company with white men, whose good will they distrust, and whose language they do not understand ; and that, when among themselves, there cannot be greater gossips. Half their time, he goes on to say, is taken up in talking over their adventures in war and hunting, and in telling whimsical stories. They are great mimics and buffoons also ; and entertain themselves excessively at the expense of the whites with whom they have associated, and who have sup posed them impressed with profound respect for their grandeur and dignity. They are curious observers, noting everything in silence, but with a keen and watchful eye ; occasionally exchanging a glance or a grunt with each other when anything particularly strikes them, but reserving all comments till they are alone. Then it is that they give full scope to criticism, satire, mimicry, and mirth. In the course of my journey along the frontier, I have had repeated opportunities of notic ing their excitability and boisterous merriment at their games ; and have occasionally noticed a group of Osages sitting round a fire, until a late hour of the night, engaged in the most animated and lively conversation, and at times making the woods resound with peals of laughter. During the war in which we were engaged with the French in Canada, about the middle of last century, and during the contest of the Anglo- American colonies for their independence, Britain adopted the policy of securing the Indian tribes as allies ; and, with this view, created a department called the Indian department, the duties of which were to maintain the friendly relations between Great Britain and the former, by distributing pre sents, rewarding services, and providing for the disabled, and for the widows and children of the slain. Previous to 1816, 150,000 a year had been distributed in this way amongst them ; chiefly in articles of personal comfort and utility, such as blankets, the most useful of all articles to an Indian, sheet ing, &c. The sum is now reduced to about 20,000 a year ; the number of claimants, some of whom come from a distance of 1600 m. to receive these pledges of our friendship, being between 18,000 and 19,000. Nor is the gratification of female vanity overlooked in the selection of these gifts. In a list of articles, contained in a Report to Parliament regarding our connection with the N. American Indians, are 5398 pairs of silver ear-bobs, 7186 silver brooches, 93 dozen looking glasses, 9162 horn, ivory, and box combs, 702 silk handkerchiefs, 5324 yards of ribbon, and 2387 ounces of ver milion. The Indians of N. America have been considered an in ferior race., intellectually, and they have not, perhaps, made advances in general civilization, or in the arts, commensurate with their opportunities ; but to change the habits and modes of life of an unenlightened people, not from one stage of refinement to another, but from an original state, or state of nature, with its freedom and its excitement, to a factitious one, with its constraints, its moriotony, and, to the Indian, incomprehensible motives of action, is not the work of a day, nor of a century. Yet manifestations of advancement are not wanting. A portion of the Mohawks, who separated from their tribe many years ago, have become tolerable farmers, and some of them have assumed the dress of Europeans. The Chippewas and Mississiquas have also evinced a strong desire to adopt the habits of civilized life. In Upper Canada, the Mohawks and Six Nations have retained 260,000 acres of good land, on which they raise Indian corn, beans, and potatoes, and some of the more industrious several kinds of English grain. They have, besides, considerable numbers of horses, cows, oxen, sheep, and swine, and in some of their villages there are schools in which their children are taught reading and writing. The Cherokees, a numerous nation, are making still more satisfactory advances in the right direction. In 1831, about 200 of that nation had attained a very complete English education, and 500 children were in progress learning English. About the same time, the Gospel of Matthew and a collection of hymns had been printed in Cherokee, and a newspaper published in the same language, of which the characters had been invented by a native named Guess. A large portion of N. America is still in possession of the aboriginal tribes, comprising the N. parts of Spanish America, the W. parts of the U. States, and the N.W. parts of British America. Their entire numbers are supposed to amount to rather more than half a million, of which 313,000 are in the territory of the U. States. The language of the Chippewas is the most prevalent among the Indian tribes, and is spoken in most of their general councils and negotiations. Political Divisions. The great political divisions of N. America, exclusive of Central America, are the U. States, British America, Russian America, and Mexico, which is in cluded between lat. 15 30 and 34 N., bounded, W. by the Pacific, and E. by the Gulf of Mexico. The territory of the U. States extends from the British possessions to the Gulf of Mexico, and from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. The S. boundary line of the U. States territory now includes the whole of Upper California, the line coming as far S. as lat. 32 30 N. British America comprises Upper Canada and Lower Canada, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Prince Edward s Island, Newfoundland, Labrador, and the island of Anticosti. The boundary of Russian America, as settled by treaty in 1825, commences at the S. extremity of Prince of Wales Island, in lat. 54 40 N., and about Ion. 132 W. All the American coast lying N. of this point, and all the islands off that coast, are recognized to be Russian territory Discovery of N. America. In the department of discovery, N. America has a history of its own, wholly distinct, in all its circumstances, from that of S. America, the scene of the j discoveries of Columbus, and to which, so far as regards this I continent, they were entirely confined. The first discoverer of N. America was John Cabot, a native of Venice, who resided in England in the reign of Henry VII., under a patent granted by that monarch, and which included Cabot s three sons ; Sebastian, then in the 19th year of his age, Louis, and Sanchez. John Cabot, the father, accompanied by his son Sebastian, sailed from Bristol ; and about five o clock on the morning of the 24th of June 1497, came in sight of N. America, the coast, it has been conjectured, of Labrador. This was a year before the discovery of S. America by Columbus, which took place in May 1498. In the summer of 1 498, Sebastian Cabot sailed from England with two ships, fitted out at his own and his father s expense ; and, directing his course by Iceland, reached Newfoundland, which he called Terra de Baccalaos, from the great quantities of fish, so named by the natives, by which the surrounding seas were filled ; quantities so immense, says the old historian. Peter Martyr, AMERICA 121 AMERICA that they actually impeded the sailing of the ships. The next adventurer who reached the N. American shores was Gaspar de Cortereal, a Portuguese nobleman, who sailed for, and subsequently surveyed between GOO and 700 in. of, the coast of Labrador in the year 1500. He returned to America shortly after ; hut having excited the enmity of the people, by having carried off, on his first voyage, a number of natives as slaves, it is supposed that he and his ships crews were destroyed, as they were never again heard of. A similar fate befell his brother, who sailed in search of him in the follow ing year; and in 1503 another expedition, fitted out by the King of Portugal to ascertain the fate of the brothers, shared the like destiny. Cortereal, who was a bold and determined man, eager to distinguish himself, had been incited to his enterprise by the achievements of Cabot. He sailed on his expedition from Lisbon with two ships, touched at the Azores, and, as already related, arrived on the coast of Labrador, which was subsequently called Terra Corterealis, afterwards changed by the Portuguese slave merchants to Terra de Laborador, in consequence, as has been conjectured, of the superior qualities of the natives as labourers, and of whom they expected to make large profits by selling them as slaves. The Portuguese affected to consider the Cortereals as the first discoverers of Newfoundland and the adjacent coasts of N. America, and attempted to establish a claim to these terri tories on that ground, but the evidence of their having been anticipated by the Cabots was sufficiently clear to render the attempt unavailing. In 1512, Sebastian Cabot sailed again for America, with a small squadron under the command of Sir Thomas Pert, fitted out by Henry VIII.; but a mutiny on board his vessels, together with a want of resolution on the part of the comman der, compelled him to return before more had been accom plished than a visit to Hudson s Bay. In the same year Florida was discovered by Ponce de Leon. The next name that occurs in the history of American discovery is that of Giovanni Verazzano, a Florentine navigator of great skill and celebrity, who was sent out by Francis I. of France, in the year 1524, and who surveyed upwards of 2000 m. of coast, comprising the whole of that of the U. States, with a large portion of that of British America. Verazzano gave the name of New France to the region he had discovered. In a subsequent voyage, he and his party were surrounded by the savages, and put to death. Ten years afterwards, Jacques Cartier, an enterprising seaman of St. Malo, sailed from the latter place for Newfoundland, the N. coast of which he surveyed and minutely described. He performed several voyages afterwards, in one of which he entered the St. Lawrence, being the first European who had done so, and ascended the river as high as Montreal. An attempt was afterwards made by the Sieur de Eoberval, a nobleman of Picardy, to form a settlement in America, but the attempt was unsuccessful, the only result being a fort which the French erected near the present site of Quebec, and named Charlesbourg. This fort, however, was the first European settlement formed in that part of America. Eoberval and his brother sailed on another voyage of discovery some time after, and perished ; neither they, nor their ships, having ever been again heard of. Previous to this, the Spaniards had con quered Mexico, and a desire to extend their dominion in a N. direction led to further discoveries in N. America. The coast of California was discovered by Ximenes, a pilot, who, with Mendoza, a captain, whom the former murdered during the voyage, had been despatched by Cortez on a voyage of discovery. In 1539, the Gulf of California was first entered by Francisco de Ulloa, another adventurer, also sent out by Cortez, who spent a year in examining its coasts and havens. The Spaniards performed several voyages afterwards, hut they were unattended by any results worthy of notice till the years 1596 and 1602, when Sebastian Viscaino proceeded along the coast as far as the river Columbia. These dis coveries were followed by those of Davis in 1585, Weymouth in 1602, Knight in 1606, Hudson in 1610, Button in 1612, Bylot and Baffin in 1615, from the latter of whom Baffin s Bay has been named. The first in point of time among the more modern voyagers to the shores of N. America were Capt. Behring, and Tchirikow his lieutenant, both natives of Russia, who were sent out in 1725 by the Empress Catherine to survey the N. coasts. They made several important dis coveries, besides setting at rest the disputed point whether Asia and America were two separate continents. The claims of Russia to the American coast N. of lat. 55 N. is founded on the voyages of these two enterprising seamen. In 1776, Capt. Cook, accompanied by Capt. Clarke, surveyed the N.W. bound aries of America, tracing the coast from lat. 50 N. till he came to Cape Prince of Wales, when he steered a N.E. course, till arrested by ice islands in about lat. 70 N. The remain ing names associated with American maritime discovery are, Meares, Vancouver, Kotzebue, and, more recently, Ross, Parry, Franklin, and Beechy ; inland travellers and dis coverers, Hearne, M Kenzie, Back, Rae, and Simpson ; most of whom have published accounts of their discoveries. CENTRAL AMERICA is the narrow tortuous strip of land which unites the continents of N. and S. America, extending from about lat. 7 to 18 N.; but as different limits are assigned to it by various authorities, these cannot be said to be exactly determined. Its entire length may be about 800 or 900 m., with a breadth varying from between 20 and 30 m. to 300 or 400. Taking the limits above stated, Central America will be found to comprise the Isthmus of Panama, Guatimala, British Honduras, and parts of Mexico ; some au thorities include also Yucatan. It is bounded E. and N.E. by the Caribbean Sea, and W. and N.W. by the N. Pacific Ocean. It is traversed throughout its whole length by a chain of mountains, which connects the Ancles of S. America with the mountain ranges of Mexico, and the Rocky Mountains of the U. States. This chain is divided into three groups ; the Costa j Rica group, the Honduras and Nicaragua group, and the group of Guatimala. The Costa Rica group traverses the Isthmus of Panama. Some parts of this range, towards the S., attain an elevation of 9000 ft. ; and the volcano of Irasu rises to 11,478 ft.; but there are others said to be of still greater height. The more general elevations, however, are from 3000 to 5000 ft. The Honduras and Nicaragua group is separated from the former by the Lake of Nicaragua, and the river San Juan. On the N. side of the lake, the border of the plateau forming its W. limit rises suddenly to a height of 8200 ft. The Guatimala group is remarkable for contain ing, with exception of the island of Java, the greatest number of active volcanoes, known to exist within similar limits, on the surface of the globe. The highest in Central America is Agua, which is said to attain an elevation of 15,000 ft. The others vary from 1000 to 11,000 ft.; but a few only of these heights have been ascertained. The volcano of Agua has obtained its name from its emitting torrents of water and stones, instead of fire. The mountains of Central America do not, generally, attain an elevation equal to those of the two adjoining continents, with exception of the volcanoes. The coasts are generally narrow, and in some places the mountains and high lands come close down to the water s edge. The rivers of this territory are small, and have necessarily, from the narrowness of the land, short courses, the longest not exceeding from 200 to 300 m., while many of them are not more than 50. Of the latter, are those that fall into the Pacific; of the former, those that join the Atlantic, both hav ing their sources in the mountainous regions of the country, the one flowing N.E., the other S.W. The largest river is the Usumasinta, which falls into the Gulf of Campeachy. There are about 30 other rivers worth noting, many of which are navigable for several miles into the interior. The prin cipal lake is that of Nicaragua, which is upwards of 100 m. in length, and about 50 m. in breadth. The other considerable lakes are those of Managua or Leon, Golfo Dolce, Golfete, Peten, Atitlan, Amatitlan, Guija, and Cojutepeque. Climate. The climate is exceedingly various, owing to the inequality of its surface. The plains on the coast of the Caribbean Sea are exposed to violent tropical heats, and are very unhealthy; but on the table lands, any temperature, according to altitude, may be obtained all the year round, with a salubrious climate. The dry season lasts from October to May; the rest of the year is called the wet season, although the rain falls during the night only, the days being fair and cloudless, and the air pure and refreshing. In March and April, the thermometer sometimes rises to 86, but usually ranges between 74 C and 82 in the middle of the day. Vegetable Productions. These are as various as the climate. On the higher parts of the table land, the grains, fruits, and vegetables of Europe are raised. There are here, likewise, AMERICA 125 AMERICA plantations of a kind of aloe, called maguey, from which a spirituous liquor, named pulque, is extracted. The lower and wanner districts produce, in great abundance, Indian corn, sugar cane, bananas, mandioca, all sorts of tropical fruits, including the cherimoya, said to be the most exquisite of fruits; and sweet potatoes, indigo, cochineal, tobacco, and cotton. The forests, which are very extensive, produce mahogany, pimento, sarsaparilla, vanilla, and the black balsam, commonly called Peruvian balsam, from having been brought to Europe by way of Peru, together with various other drugs, gums, and valuable woods, including logwood and lignum vitae. The forests of Panama contain at least 97 different kinds of trees, which grow luxuriantly in its moist hot climate, fatal to animal life. Zoology. The zoology of Central America differs little from that of the other countries of America. The only animals peculiar to it are the manati, found at the mouth of the Rio Juan ; the winged squirrel, and various kinds of quad- rumana. Amongst the birds, the most remarkable are hum ming birds ; the quezal, whose feathers are of a bright emerald green ; the great macaw, and several others of the most splendid plumage. Serpents are numerous, some of them dangerous, especially on the thickly-wooded coast of the Pacific. Two species of locusts are known here, a brown and a green; the former is particularly destructive. The rivers, lakes, and seas abound with fish. Geology, Minerals, &c. Of the geology of Central America little is known. Granite, gneiss, and mica slate, form the substrata of the country; but the abundance of igneous rocks bear witness to strong volcanic action, both in ancient and in modern times. Gold, silver, iron, lead, and mercury, are found ; but the first three only are worked. Jasper and mar ble are worked in Honduras ; and brimstone is collected near the volcano of Quezaltenango. There are also many salt springs; and salt is procured in large quantities on the shores of the Pacific. Inhabitants. The population of Central America consists of three classes whites and Creoles ; mestizoes, or the offspring of whites and Indians ; and aboriginal natives. The propor tions of this population have been estimated at one-twelfth whites, four-twelfths mixed races, and seven-twelfths Indians. Morality is at the lowest ebb among all classes, especially the whites and Creoles ; while ignorance, vice, and superstition pre vail to an extent unsurpassed in any other part of the world. History. In 1502, Columbus visited the E. coast of Cen tral America, passing along the shores of Honduras, the Mos quito territory, Costa Rica, and Veragua, when the clamours of his crew, the fierce resistance of the natives, and the crazy state of his ships, compelled him to return. In 1503, two or three years after the conquest of Mexico, Cortes despatched Pedro Alvarado, one of his most distinguished officers, to sub due Central America, which he effected in two years. From that period it remained subject to Spain till 1823, when it was formed into a federal republic, and became independent. The confederacy comprised the states of Guatimala, Nicaragua, Honduras, Salvador, and Costa Rica. It existed till 1839, when it was dissolved. The commerce of Central America is very trifling, and the value of its exports has declined since the revolution. Trade, however, is perfectly free in all the states, and foreigners possess all the privileges enjoyed by natives. The ordinary revenue in the different states is derived from duties on im ports, a duty of 5 per cent, on the transfer of real property, and a monopoly of the sale of spirits and tobacco. The ideaof opening a passage for vessels through the Isthmus of Panama, thus connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and thereby avoiding a dangerous and circuitous navigation round Cape Horn, is so obvious, that it excites no surprise to SOUTH AMERICA is a vast peninsula of a triangular form, with its apex S., extending in length from lat. 12 30 N., to Cape Horn, in lat. 55 59 S. (K.) Its greatest length, from N. to S., is 4800 m. ; its greatest breadth, from E. to W., 3230 m. About three-fourths of it lie between the tropics, the remainder in the temperate zone. Its coast lines, par ticularly the W., are comparatively little broken or inter rupted by indentations, excepting towards the S. extremity, where considerable inequalities occur on both E. and W. shores. Here, also, is a group of mountainous islands, form ing the archipelago of Tierra del Fuego. They are pene trated in every direction by bays and narrow inlets of the sea, or fiords, ending often in glaciers formed from the snow on the summits of mountains 6000 ft. high. Peat mosses cover the higher declivities of these mountains, and dense forests their flanks. The mountainous and elevated tracts of this continent are chiefly limited to the borders of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans ; the intervening space being occupied by a wide, low, and level plain, or rather series of plains, which reaches from one extremity of it to the other, so low and flat that a rise of 1000 ft. in the Atlantic Ocean would submerge the greater part of the entire continent. Mountains and Volcanoes. There are four mountain sys tems in S. America ; the most remarkable of which is the Andes, that stretch along the W. coast from S. to N., in one continued chain of 4180 m. in length, in a straight line, and 4360 when measured along the highest part of the system, commencing at the Straits of Magellan or Magalhaens, to the Isthmus of Panama. They are of inconsiderable width, but attain great elevations, ranking in this respect next to the Himalaya mountains ; the highest of the former, Acon cagua, 23,910 ft. ; the highest of the latter, Kunchinginga, being 28,178 ft. The second system is that of Parime or Parima, also called the Highlands of Guayana, consisting of numerous irregular groups of mountains scattered over a table land not more than 2000 ft. above the sea, which extends 600 or 700 m. from E.to W., separating the plains of the lower Orinoco from those of the Rio Negro and the Amazon. The principal group extends from the parallels of lat. 3 to 8 N.; and from the meridians of Ion. 58 to 6d W. The mean direction of the range is N., 85 W., and the separate chains follow, generally, nearly the same direction. The culmin ating points of this system are the Maravaca, about 10,500 ft. high, and the Duida, 7149 ft. high. The third system is known under the general name of the Coast Chain of Vene zuela; the N. chain of which contains the culminating point the Silla de Caracas which attains an elevation of 8600 ft. The fourth is that of Brazil, which consists of two great ranges running parallel to tht jus but not very great distances from the sea, and of numerous branches stretch ing far into the interior, and crossing the country in different directions. The higher mountains of Brazil extend, generally, like the Andes, from S. to N. ; those of the interior form a ridge, whose chief direction is from E. to W. The culminat ing point of the highest chain of mountains in Brazil is Itambe, 5960 ft. high. There are altogether upwards of 30 volcanoes in S. America in a state of activity. They all belong to the Andes, and con sist of three separate and distinct series; the series of Chili, of Peru and Bolivia, and of Quito. The loftiest of these burning mountains in Gualatieri or Sehama, one of the Peru and Bolivian series; lat. 20 13 S.; Ion. 69 17 W.; height, 22,000 ft. The heights of the others vary from 13,000 to 18,000 ft. The latest eruption occurred in 1831, with the volcano Pichincha, one of the Quito series; lat. 12 S.; Ion. 78 50 30"W. Plains. The plains of S. America are, as elsewhere men tioned, of , , ast extent; stretching for many hundreds of learn that it has been entertained for upwards of three cen- j miles without exhibiting the slightest perceptible inequality, tunes. During all that time, however, no attempt was made In the rainy season they display a surface of beautiful green, to accomplish this desirable object; but there is now every probability of its being effected. Already a railway is being aid across the isthmus from Chagres on the E. coast, to but in the dry season Then the grass crumble sume the appearance of a desert. into dust, the surface of the soil is rent ; the crocodiles and larger serpents remain imbedded in 1 anama on the W. ^ and three lines of water communication the dried-up mud till the first showers of spring arouse them are at present (18oO) under consideration one across the | from their torpidity, when, says Humboldt, on the authority isthmus, from Chagres or Puerto Bello to Panama; a second j of the aborigines, the moistened clay on the margin of the from Port San Juan, in the Caribbean Sea, across the Lake swamps is sometimes seen to blister and rise slowly in a kind of Nicaragua to Realejo, on the Pacific; and a third from the ! of mound; then with a violent noise, like the outbreak of mouth of the river Coatzacoalcos to Tehuantcpec. | a sma n niurt volcano, the heaped-up earth is cast high into AMERICA 12G AMKRICA the air, and forth issues a gigantic water-snake or a scaly crocodile. The great plains of S. America are variously designated the Pampas of Buenos Ayres, the Silvas of tho Amazons, and the Llanos of the Orinoco and Venezuela. The Pampas of Buenos Ayres are about 900 m. in breadth ; occu py a surface of 315,000 sq. m. ; and lie about 1000 ft. above the sea. Marked by its vegetation and other characteristics, from E. to W., it has four distinct regions. The first, which extends 180 m. W. from Buenos Ayres, is covered with thistles and lucerne of the most vivid green, so long as the moisture from the ram lasts; the second, extending 450 m., is covered with long grass, intermixed with gaudy flowers ; the third is a tract of swamps and bogs ; the fourth a border of thorny bushes and dwarf trees, reaching to the Andes. The grassy plains of this level territory are occupied by thousands of wild cattle and horses, who find there inexhaustible supplies of food. The thistles of this region attain an extraordinary size, shooting up to a height of 10 and 11 ft., with stems so strong, and armed with prickles so formidable, as to form an impenetrable barrier. The Silvas of the river of the Ama zons, lying in the centre of the continent, form the second division of the S. American lowlands. They are covered with wood (hence their name), and so densely, that the country can be penetrated only by sailing up the river or its tributaries. They extend 1 500 m. along the Amazon ; varying in breadth from 350 to 800 m. The heat is suffocating in the deep and dark recesses of these primeval forests, where not a breath of air penetrates ; while a death-like stillness prevails from sun rise to sunset, when the forest suddenly resounds with the loud and wild cries of the animals by which it is inhabited. At midnight a profound silence again prevails, and continues till dawn, when the discordant uproar recommences. The Llanos of the Orinoco and Venezuela form the third division of S. American lowlands. They occupy 153,000 sq. m. be tween the deltas of the Orinoco and the river Coqueta, and are so perfectly flat that frequently there is not an eminence ,a foot high in 270 sq. m. They are nearly destitute of trees, excepting the banks of the Orinoco, which are thickly wooded. The Llanos present very different aspects at different seasons of the year. Soon after the termination of the rainy season in October, and the subsidence of the swollen rivers, they I are clothed with fine grass, affording abundant pasturage to ! the countless herds with which they are covered. But in tho dry season, namely, between November and February, they are converted into desolate wastes ; all vegetation is destroyed, the waters are dried up, and the earth is rent in deep and wide crevices a result, however, proceeding rather from the absence of moisture than from excessive heat, which, although very intense, is not so great as during the wet season. Beside these three great tracts of level country, there is the desert of Patagonia, occupying 1,620,000 sq. m., the most barren of all the plains of S. America ; being, for the most part, composed of sandy sterile dunes, intermixed with stones and gravel ; occasionally diversified by huge boulders, tufts of brown grass, low bushes armed with spines, brine lakes, incrustations of salt white as snow, and by black basaltic platforms. The climate of these plains is very cold, espe cially S. from lat. 45 S., and is subject to great and sudden changes of temperature. Rivers. The principal rivers of S. America are the Ama zon, the Orinoco, and the Plata. The first is the largest river on the globe. It rises on the table land of Pasco, in Lake Lauricacha, and, after a course of 4000 m., falls into the Atlantic at the equator, in about Ion. 51 W. ; and is 96 m. wide at its mouth. It is navigable for about 2200 m. from the sea. The Orinoco rises nearly in the centre of the Parime Mountains, but its source has not yet been visited by any European, although Humboldt has explored the greater part of its course. Its length is estimated at 1380 m. The affluents of the Orinoco are numerous, and some of them very large streams. The latter river is connected with the former through one of its affluents, the Rio Negro, by a natural canal, called the Cassiquiare, presenting, in this connection, one of the most remarkable phenomena of physical geography. The Plata (Rio de la Plata) is not so much a river as an estuary formed by the confluence of the rivers Parana and Uraguay. It is about 185 m. in length; and, at its junction with the sea, between Punta del Este and Cape San Antonio, its width is about 130 m. Its navigation is difficult, owing to its shoals and strong irregular currents. Its waters are so turbid that they tinge the sea visibly for 200 m. from tho embouchure. There are a number of other rivers in S. America, which, though not so large as any of those above named, are equal, if not superior in size, to most of the greatest rivers of Europe. Amongst these are the San Fran cisco, the Rio Negro, Colorado, Essequibo, &c. The water in some of the rivers in equatorial America is white; in others it is of a deep coffee colour, or dark green, when seen in the shade ; and, when ruffled by a breeze, of a vivid green. Lakes. The lakes of S. America, of any considerable size, are few, and, with exception of the Lake Titicaca, are rather vast morasses than lakes ; the large inland water in Colombia, called the Lake of Maracaybo, being a mere inlet from the Caribbean Sea, and not a true lake. The Lake Titicaca is situated near the N.W. frontier of Bolivia or Upper Peru ; it covers an area of above 4000 sq. m., is elevated 12,795 ft. above the sea, and is said to be 120 fathoms deep in many places. Some of the temporary lakes, alternately inundated and dry, or in a marshy state, cover, when flooded, vast tracts of country ; that of Xarayos, on both sides of the Paraguay, and nearly in the centre of the continent, extending over 36,000 sq. m. In the elevated mountain valleys and table lands of the Andes, there are many small lakes, of the purest blue and green colours, and some of them intensely cold, being near the line of perpetual congelation. Climate. There are no parts of S. America so hot as we should be led to expect from it, geographical position a result produced by the operation of the trade winds, atmospherical influences of the huge chain of the Andes, and other physical causes. The burning heats of the plains of Arabia are un known on the new continent. In the steppes of the Caraccas, the hottest region of S. America, the temperature of the air, during the day, is only 98 in the shade ; while it rises to 112 in the sandy deserts around the Red Sea. Throughout the whole basin of the Amazon, which comprehends between 2,000,000 and 3,000,000 sq. m., the climate is neither very hot nor un- healthful, though under the equator. This arises from its being shaded by lofty woods, and from the prevalence of a cool easterly breeze, a branch of the trade wind, which ascends the channel of the Amazon, following all its windings nearly to the foot of the Andes. Brazil, and the country extending westward from it, enjoys also an equable and temperate cli mate. At Rio Janeiro, the mean temperature is only about 74. At Lima, the temperature varies from 53 to 82, but the mean for the whole year is only 72. At Buenos Ayres, the mean annual heat is 68; and, in the Straits of Magellan, the temperature of the warmest month does not exceed 43 or 46, while snow falls almost daily. The narrowness of tho continent towards the S., the immense tracts of ocean which lie on either side of it, and its exposure to the rigours of the polar regions, sufficiently account for this inclemency. On the W. coast, there is a rainless district of nearly 1000 m. in length, from N.W. to S.E. It lies between lat. 7 and 32 S., and Ion. 65 and 68 W. The various climates, which so large a continent must necessarily possess, will be treated of more in detail in the articles on the various countries of which it is composed. Geology and Mineralogy.- Granite forms the base of tho whole continent, having gneiss here and there associated with it, but mica schist is the most common of the crystalline rocks. Quartz rock is much developed, generally mixed with mica, and rich in gold and specular iron. The Pampas of Buenos Ayres are entirely alluvial, the deposit of the Plata- Parana. Granite prevails, to the extent of 2000 m., along the coast of Brazil ; and, with syenite, forms the base of the table land. The superstructure of the latter consists of metamorphic and old igneous rocks, sandstone, clay slate, limestone, in which are large caverns, with bones of extinct animals ; and alluvial soil. Porphyry and red sandstone abound all over the Andes. As Mexico is the principal seat of the mineral wealth of N. America, so is Peru that of the S. continent. Chili, of which the former is but a continuation, is also famous for its mines of gold, silver, and copper. The province of Minas Geraes, in Brazil, is likewise, as its name implies, exceedingly rich in mines. Several of the most valuable gold mines here are wrought by an English mining company, organized in 1825. Besides the mines, there are some valuable gold and silver washings in Brazil, and other parts of S. America. The last AMERICA 127 AMERICA returns, of any authority, which have been given of the pro duce of the American mines, are nearly half a century old, and can, therefore, no longer be depended upon ; particularly as they precede the revolutionary struggles of 1810, which totally altered the state of the mining interests of the country. The entire produce of the gold and silver mines of S. America has been recently estimated at between 3,000,000 and 4,000,000 sterling, but it is impossible to say how correctly. Brazil produces more diamonds than any other country. Vegetation. Extending through so large a space, and pos sessing, in consequence, so great a variety of climate, no special character can be given to the vegetation of S. America. As in the case of N. America, the most distinguishing feature of the former is its prodigious forests, which cover about two- thirds of the whole continent; a large portion of them so dense, and so choked up by twiners, shrubs, and sharp-edged grasses, that a hatchet is necessary at every step to clear the way. These forests are, in several remarkable particulars, wholly different from those of the Old World. The trees are much more various, more graceful, and have more distinctive characters ; and many of them, even the largest, are adorned with the most brilliant flowers ; scarlet, purple, blue, rose- coloured, and golden yellow, are blended with every possible shade of green. Throughout the whole of tropical America, vegetation is on the grandest scale, combined with great beauty and t ruitfulness. In those regions where there are due proportions of heat and moisture, the magnitude of the trees, and the splendour of the flowers, are extraordinary. Individual plants, says Humboldt, languishing in our hot houses, can give but a very faint idea of the majestic veget ation of the tropical zone. Fruits also abound, including oranges, limes, cocoa nuts, pine apples, mangoes, bananas, pomegranates, mammoons, goyabas, jainbas, aracas, mangabas, and many others. Southward of the line are found the quassia hitter, the fragrant tinga bean, the beauteous rosewood, and the cinchona tree, the rind of which is what is called Jesuits bark ; and indigo, coffee, sugar cane, maize, and the cacao tree, from whose seeds chocolate is prepared, are amongst the pro ducts of S. America. The cultivation of tea also has been attempted in Brazil, though hitherto with little success ; but the capitalists engaged in it are still in hopes that they shall be able, ultimately, to compete with China, even in foreign markets. Further S., in Patagonia, vegetation gradually losts its tropical character, and finally assumes the aspect of northern vegetation. Zoology. The most formidable beast of prey peculiar to S. America is the Felis onca or jaguar. It is larger and stronger than the panther, but inferior in size and ferocity to the Bengal tiger. The puma or American lion is found in both N. and S. America. Apes and monkeys abound in the tropical forests of the latter, but are an inferior race to those of the Old World. Amongst the winged mammals is the vampire, an enormous bat, which lives on blood ; at tacking the largest animals, and even man, when asleep. These dangerous creatures are, fortunately, not numerous, and are almost wholly confined to Guayana, Colombia, and Brazil. In the marshes and swamps of tropical America, the boa constrictor is found, of enormous size. Immense centi pedes, scorpions, and spiders also abound in these regions. Ants, termites, and locusts also swarm ; the latter to a fright ful extent, especially in Buenos Ayres, and some of the neighbouring provinces, sometimes covering the ground for a distance of 200 ni., devouring every green thing, even the grass, to the very roots. During a visitation of these destruc tive insects, all the gardens, says Miers, consisting of ex tensive plantations of maize, pumpkins, melons, and water melons, beans, and other vegetables, had been completely swept off the surface of the earth. They enter the houses, and devour every edible thing they contain ; even curtains, clothes, and furniture are attacked by them, and much injured, if not rendered wholly useless ; and, in one night, gardens, on which much pains and expense have been bestowed, are utterly destroyed by these rapacious creatures. The mosquito is also a grievous infliction in many parts of S. America, especially in Venezuela, and along the banks of the Orinoco. The chigoe, another much dreaded insect, abounds in the same localities. Of the birds of S. America, the most remarkable, for size, is the condor, a species of vulture. The largest specimen yet met with measured somewhat less than 14 ft. between the I extremities of the wings, though they rarely exceed 1 1 . The body of the largest individuals is generally from 3 to 3 J ft. in length, from the tip of the beak to the extremity of the tail. They inhabit the most inaccessible parts of the Andes. Ridi culously exaggerated accounts of the size and power of these birds were current, until their falsehood was detected and exposed by Humboldt and Bonpland. S. America possesses, in common with other countries, eagles, vultures, falcons, and other birds of prey. It also possesses many birds of exquisite plumage ; amongst these, the tiny humming bird, and the graceful couroucoui (Troyon pavoninus), with its splendid robe of green. The seas, lakes, and rivers of S. America abound with fish of various kinds ; and many of the latter, in the tropical regions, with enormous lizards and alligators. The electric eel is found in the lakes of the Caraccas. Amongst the domesticated native animals of S. America are the lama and pacos ; both used as beasts of burden. The horse, ass, ox, sheep, goat, and pig, were all conveyed from the Old to the New World, none of them being indigenous to the latter. Horses and cattle, however, have now so increased in all parts of America, that the former may be bought for from 24s. to 32s. each, and the latter are valued principally for their hides and tallow, the meat being comparatively of little account. The slaughter of oxen for the hide alone, is a principal busi ness of many extensive provinces, more especially in La Plata, Uruguay, Paraguay, and Brazil. JRaces of Men. As elsewhere remarked, there exists a very striking general physical resemblance between the native inhabitants of America throughout the whole of both continents, from Cape Horn to Behring s Straits. They are almost all of a reddish brown or copper colour, with long black hair, deep-set black eyes, aquiline nose, and often of handsome slender forms. In S. America, many are half civilized, but a greater number are still in a state of utter barbarism. The aboriginal population of Indian Chili, known generally by the name of Araucanos, are more advanced in civilization than the Indians of the Pampas. They associate in small communities, have fixed residences, cultivate the ground, and subsist chiefly on the produce of their labour. They excel in the art of weaving, and produce a woollen cloth, says Dr. Leighton, which, for fineness of thread, even ness of weaving, durability, brilliancy of colours, and elegance of pattern, is superior to anything of the kind I have ever seen. The arts of spinning, weaving, and dyeing, are practised solely by the women. Both men and women are hard workers, but the latter are by far the more industrious. They are a well-disposed people, have few of the vices of other savages, and possess firmness and courage in a remarkable degree. They are, however, fond of spirituous liquors, and manufacture a kind of spirit called chicha, by fermenting different fruits, but chiefly apples. They possess no written language, nor any other means of putting ideas on record ; their language itself is poor, harsh, difficult to pronounce, and inexpressive. Like all the other Indians throughout S. America, they have been long acquainted with the art of working in metals, especially gold and silver. The Pampas Indians are of a very dark complexion, with long, thick, coarse black hair, which generally hangs loose over their shoulders. Their eyes are black, animated, scowl ing, and are placed widely apart ; foreheads low and broad ; faces flattish ; high cheek bones and large jaws ; they have no beard, are of rather low stature, and ill made, but muscular and athletic. They are expert horsemen, and can slip round and suspend themselves under their horse s belly when at full speed, merely clinging by their hands and feet, and can regain their seat at pleasure, without checking the animal s speed. They are still in a very savage state, subsisting on raw animal flesh, and leading the roving life of hunters. They do not cultivate the ground, nor apply themselves to any sort of labour. In manner they are boisterous, and in disposition cruel and ferocious, settling their disputes with the knife, in the use of which they are singularly expert. Of the Indians that inhabited the province of Brazil, there are said to have been no fewer than 200 distinct tribes. A few of these may be named, and their principal physical and moral characteristics alluded to. The Tapuyas, robust, well made and copper coloured; long, sleek, black hair; paint themselves, and pierce the under lip for the purpose of intro- AMERICA 128 AMERICA ducing a ring or other ornament ; the greater part of them said to have been cannibals. The Tupis or Tupinambas inhabit chiefly the coast from the river Camama to that of San Francisco. They also paint their bodies. The Cafusos, a mixture of Indians and negroes, remarkable for an extra ordinary peculiarity in the hair of the head, which rises per pendicularly from the forehead to the height of a foot or a foot and a half, giving them a very strange and disagreeable appearance. The Puris, the most revengeful and vindictive of all the Indian races of Brazil. The Botocudos, another cruel and savage race, inhabiting the territory lying between the Rio Doce and the Rio Pardo. The Indians of Brazil are generally of a short or middle stature, and mostly of a robust broad make. They all paint ; complexion darker or lighter copper ; skin fine, soft, and shining. South of lat. 38 S. we have the huge Patagonian. The stature and bulk of this race, however, though still remarkable, have been much exaggerated. Their average height is about 6 ft. ; heads and features large, hands and feet small, colour dark copper brown ; hair black, lank, and coarse. They lead a nomadic life, living in tents formed of poles and skins, and subsisting on the animals they kill. Political Divisions. S. America comprises the following states : Columbia, now divided into the republics of New Granada, Venezuela, and Ecuador; Guayana British, French, and Dutch ; republics of Peru, Bolivia, and Chili ; the united provinces of La Plata, the empire of Brazil, Paraguay, Banda Oriental or Uruguay, Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego, and the Falkland Islands. Of these states, Paraguay is the smallest, comprising only 74,000 sq. m., and a pop. of 300,000; and Brazil the largest, its area being 2,743,380 m., with a pop. of 4,170,229. Discovery. The first discoverer of the continent of S. America was Christopher Columbus, a native of the city of Genoa, where he was born in the year 1435. On August 3, 1492, he sailed from Spain with an expedition fitted out at the expense of Isabella, Queen of that country, on the first of those voyages of discovery which have rendered his name immortal. On the 12th of October following, Columbus reached an island in the New World, one of the Bahamas, on which he bestowed the name of San Salvador, and of which he took formal possession in the name of the Castillian sovereigns.* Having explored this island, and taken in a supply of wood and water, he sailed in quest of further dis coveries, and soon after found himself amongst a number of beautiful islands, three of which he visited Santa Maria de la Concepcion, Fernandina, and Isabella, with the scenery of all of which he was enraptured. Prosecuting his adventurous voyage, he came in sight of the island of Cuba on the 28th of October. Of this island he also took formal possession, giv ing it the name of Juana, in honour of Prince Juan. From Cuba, he proceeded to Hayti or St. Domingo, to which he gave the name of Espaiiola, from an idea that the features of the country resembled those of Spain. Having left several of his crew here at their own request, Columbus set sail for Spain on January 4, 1493. The illustrious navigator was received by Ferdinand and Isabella with every mark of honour and respect. A second voyage was proposed and eagerly seconded by the court of Spain. An expedition, composed of 17 sail, large and small, of which Columbus had chief command, left the Bay of Cadiz on September 25, 1493. In this voyage, the principal discovery was the island of Jamaica. On May 30, 1498, Columbus set sail from Spain with a fleet of six vessels, on his third voyage, and now added the island of Trinidad to his former discoveries. From thence he proceeded to the mouth of the Orinoco, where he landed, and thus achieved the honour of being the first discoverer of the continent of S. America. With a mind singularly sus ceptible of the liveliest impressions from a contemplation of the beauties of nature, Columbus expresses his admiration of that which the New World revealed to him in the following beautiful and simple language : The beauty of the new land fur surpasses the Campiua tie Cordova. The trees are bright, with an ever-verdant foliage, and are always laden with fruit. The plants on the ground are high and flowering. The air is warm as that of April in Castile, and the nightingale sings * Some recent inqum-rg have transferred the honour of having been the first land made by Columbus in the New World, from San Salvador to Turk s Island, 330 m. to the S E. of the latter. more melodiously than words can describe. At night the song of other smaller birds resounds sweetly, and I have also heard our grasshoppers and frogs. Once I came to a deeply-enclosed harbour and saw a high mountain that had never been seen by .any mortal eye, and from whence gentle waters (lintlas aguas) flowed down. The mountain was covered with firs and va riously-formed trees adorned with beautiful blossoms. On sailing up the stream which empties itself into the bay, I was astonished at the cool shade, the clear crystal-like water, and the number of the singing birds. I felt as if I could never leave so charming a spot, as if a thousand tongues would fail to describe all these things, and as if my hand were spell-bound and refused to write. In 1502, he undertook a fourth voyage, but it was unattended by any remarkable results. He reached the coast of Honduras, and, subsequently, the Gulf of Darien ; from which he returned to Spain, where he died four years afterwards, namely, in 1506. The adventurer who followed next in the tract of Columbus was Alonzo de Hojeda, a young, bold, and enterprising Spanish cavalier, who, in spired by a similar spirit with that which animated the great navigator, and partaking, in some degree, of his genius, fitted out, at his own expense, an expedition of four ships, with which he pursued the course taken by Columbus. Having reached the continent of S. America, near the equator, he passed the mouths of the Essequibo and Orinoco, examined the whole coast of Venezuela, as far as Cape Vela, and thus ascertained that the land alongst which he sailed was part of a continent. Hojeda was accompanied in this voyage by Amerigo Vespucci, a native of Florence, an experienced mariner, and a man of considerable talents and acquirements. On the return of the latter to Spain, in the year 1500, he published an account of his voyage, and, it is said, claimed the merit of being the first discoverer of the continent of S. America.f His book was read with all the interest and avidity which its extraordinary disclosures were so well cal culated to excite, and the author s name silently but indelibly affixed to the New World an injustice to the memory of Columbus which it would have been gratifying to have seen repaired, but which it is now too late to attempt. Brazil was discovered in 1500 by Vincent Yanez Pin9on, who had accompanied Columbus in his first voyage. Steering N., he explored the mouths of the Amazon, and noting with amazement the immense body of water which it poured into the ocean, correctly inferred that so mighty a stream could be found only in a continent of great extent. Towards the close of the year above named, Roderigo de Bastedas explored the coast from Cape Vela, the point at which Hojeda s pro gress terminated, to Puerto del Reterte, where that of Columbus closed, and thus connected the intervening con tinent. In 1507, Pinzon, and Juan Diaz de Solis, an able navigator, were sent out by the Spanish Government to explore the W. coast of S. America. Arriving on the shores of Brazil, beyond which discovery had extended but a little way, they followed the coast towards the S., as far as the 40th degree of S. lat., landing at various points, and taking possession of the country for the crown of Castile. Several adventurers of smaller note than those named, sought to earn wealth and reputation by making discoveries in the New World, but without success. The pop. of America, North, Central, and South, and in cluding the islands, has been estimated at between 44,000,000 and 46,000,000. (Murray s Historical and Descriptive Account of British America ; Nicol s History of the U. States; Tytler and Wilson s N. Coast of America; Humboldt s Travels and Researches in America; Kidder s Sketches of Brazil; Mier s Travels in Chili and La Plata ; Washington Irving s Tour to the Prairies ; Do. Life and Voyages of Columbus ; Norman s Gambles in Yucatan; Catlin s N. American Indians; Penny Magazine; Penny Cyclopedia; Bell s Geography; Geography of America ; London Geographical Journal, vol. v. ; Som- merville s Physical Geography; Lyell s Geology; Humboldt s Aspects of Nature ; Do. Cosmos.) t Humboldt repels this imputation on the honour of Vespucci, and says, that after a careful study of certain documentary evidence bearing on the question, he has ascertained that the charge is devoid of founda tion ; aud that the name of America has originated in a distant region (as, for instance, in France or Germany), owing to many concurrent cir cumstances, which appear to remove all suspicion from Vespucci. (tlumboldt s Cosmos, vol. ii. p. 680, note.) AMERKOTE 129 AMHERST ISLES AMERKOTE, or OMERKOTE, a tn. and fort, India, in Sinde, 90 ra. E. Hyderabad; lat. 25 19 N.; Ion. 69 47 E., in the E. desert. It was at one time cap. of the independent principality of Dhat, and in 1813 was taken, by the Ameers, from the rajah of Judpoor. It is celebrated as the birthplace of the Emperor Akbar. The fort is about half a mile from the town. It is a square of 500 ft., with a mud wall 40 ft. high, defended by four round and six square towers, and has but one gate. AMERONGEN, a vil. Holland, prov. of, and 21 m. S.E. from Utrecht. It is a nice-looking village, which has at various times suffered much from war. Its inhabitants are employed chiefly in cultivating tobacco and corn, and in rear ing cattle.. Pop. about 1500. AMERSFOORT [Lat. Amisfurtum], a tn. Holland, cap. of arrond. and can. of same name, prov. of, and 12 in. N.E. from Utrecht ; on the Eem, which is here formed by the confluence of several small streams, and is navigable throughout to the Zuider Zee. Amersfoort is the seat of a court of first resort and of commerce ; it was once fortified, and still has several gates, called poorts, but its fortifications have been converted into public promenades. It is of an oval shape, and has one long street, running from end to end ; and its houses, though good, are more remarkable for their size and projecting gables than for their beauty. It has a large quadrangular corn market place, called the great market, approached by seven streets ; and a fish, a vegetable, and a pig market. Outside the Koppelpoort is the harbour. The town possesses a. Calvinistic church, built in the great market ; one Lutheran, one Remonstrant, two R. catholic, and two Jansenist churches ; and a Jewish synagogue, an orphan hospital, and a cavalry barracks. It has also a Jansenist seminary, a school of industry for car penters, smiths, architects, &c., a Latin school, and 10 com mon schools. It formerly had also the Pothouse, a benevolent institution, where a pot of warm food was kept always in readiness for distribution among the necessitous. A princi pal branch of business in Amersfoort is the trade in grain, for which there is a weekly market, more especially buckwheat, grown extensively in the neighbourhood. Tobacco, also ex tensively cultivated in the vicinity, is manufactured here, and exported to France and Italy, from which last country a con siderable quantity is re-exported to Holland in the form of snuff. The manufacture of woollen goods, such as dimity, bombazine, &c., is carried on to some extent; there is likewise a soapboiling establishment, and a good trade is done in red herrings, which are rather famed. Besides the markets al ready referred to, an annual fair is held in October for horses, cattle, &c. Amersfoort has suffered frequently from both fire and water, and is the birthplace of the celebrated statesman Johan van Oldenbarneveld, commonly called Barneveldt, grand pensionary of Holland, who, to gratify popular clamour, was beheaded in 1619. at the age of 72 ; and of Pieter Both, the first governor -general of Dutch East India. Pop. 12,000. (Van der Aa s Nederlanden.) AMERSHAM, a market tn. and par. England, co. Buckingham, 27m. S.E. by S. town of Buckingham, and 25 m. N. by W. London, pleasantly situated in a valley traversed by a stream called the Misburne, an affluent of the Colne. It consists principally of one spacious, well-paved street, crossed by a smaller. The church, erected in the 16th century, is a spacious building of brick, coated with stucco, and contains some handsome and interesting monuments. The only other buildings worthy of notice are the townhall, surmounted by a lantern and clock ; and the Union workhouse, in the Eliza bethan style. There are places of worship for Baptists and Quakers; a grammar school, with writing school attached; a Sunday school, national. British, and infant schools, and an almshouse for six poor widows. Manufactures: Silk, crape, black lace, cotton, straw plait, and wooden chairs. Amersham was a Parliamentary borough by prescription, but was disfranchised by the Reform Bill. The par. contains 7855 ac., and is in general hilly. Pop. in 1841. 3645. AMESBURY, a market tn. and par. England, co. Wilts, him. Amesbury. The town lies in a narrow valley on the Avon, 78 m. W.S.W. London, and 8 m. N. Salisbury. It is ill built, and consists of two streets only. Near it are the remains of an ancient encampment, called Vespasian s Camp, although evidently not of Roman origin. At the parsonage house of Milston, in the vicinity, Addison was born in 1672. VOL. I. The rudiments of his education were acquired in Amesbury. Area of par., 6060 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1171. AMGA, a river, Siberia, gov. Yakutsk ; it rises in the offshoots of the Yablonoi Krebet mountains, about lat. 59 N.; Ion. 126 30 E.; flows N.E., and falls into the Aldan in Ion. 135 E., after a course of about 466 m. At Amginsk, where it flows between steep rocks 30 ft. in height, it is 3000 ft. broad. In winter it is frozen over, the ice forming a bridge even for heavily-laden vehicles. (Erman s Travels.} AMGINSK, a vil. Siberia, gov. Yakutsk; lat. 61 N.; Ion. 132 E. ; on the 1. bank of the Amga, which is here about 3000 ft. wide. It is a posting station and ferry, on the way between Yakutsk and Okhotsk. The dwellings are yurts or huts, of the Yakutian model ; but the inhabitants are Russians, and have built here a Greek church. (Erman s Travels.} AMHARA (KINGDOM OF), formerly a prov. of Abyssinia (which see), now an independent kingdom. Its boundaries do not seem to be well defined, but it may be said generally to lie between lat. 10 and 14 N., and Ion. 35 10 and 38 30 j E., having part of the country of the Gallas on the S., the I country of the Shangalla negroes on the N., Tigrd on the E., and Abu Ramla and other little-known territories on the W. Nearly in the centre of the kingdom is the great lake of Tzana or Dembea, and along its S. limit flows the Blue Nile. The plains in this province, as of several others in Abyssinia, con tain a large portion of good soil, which yields abundant crops of barley, and rich pasturage. The principal plains are those of Dembea, Biegemider, and Miecha. The first, which lies around the lake of the same name, has been called, as else where mentioned, the granary of the country, on account of its fertility and the blandness of its climate. In the vicinity | of the lake the land is wholly in pasture, and is covered with j numerous herds of cattle. The plain of Biegemider lies on the E. side of the Lake Tzana, and is also, in great part, under pasture; but excellent grapes are grown on the declivities of the mountains. The plain of Miecha stretches to the W. of Lake Tzana. The botany, zoology, &c., is the same as men- | tioned in the general article, ABYSSINIA. The capital of the | kingdom is Gondar (which see}. AMHERST, a seaport tn. India beyond the Ganges, prov. same name, the most N. of the Tenasserim provinces (which see) ; lat. 16 5 N. ; Ion. 97 33 E. (R.) ; on a trian gular peninsula, on the E. side of the Gulf of Martaban, 31m. S. Moulmein. When the town of Martaban was restored to the Burmese, agreeably to treaty, at the conclusion of the war, the spot on which Amherst is built, and which was then covered with jungle and fruit trees, was chosen by the British, April 5, 1826, as a military and commercial station, and also as an asylum for intending native emigrants. On the higher grounds are the fortifications, governor s house, and other public buildings, and the houses of the Europeans and Chinese, the lower being assigned to the natives. The harbour, which is spacious and secure, though it has a dangerous bar. with only 6 ft. of water at neap tide, is described as being perfectly calm for two hours both before and after high water, and well suited for wet docks, having at no time a less depth than 3 fathoms, while vessels may safely anchor within 100 yards of the shore. The town and vicinity are well supplied with good water, which is readily procured within 6 ft. < f the surface. Pop. in 1838, 5000. AMHERST, atn., U. States, Hampshire, Massachussets, 82 m. W. Boston. It is the seat of Amherst college, a flour ishing institution, founded in 1821, and incorporated in 1825. It has a president and 10 professors, or other instructors. The whole number of alumni is 613. It has 15,000 volumes in its libraries, a very complete set of philosophical apparatus, and a cabinet of natural history, including mineralogy. There are, besides, in the town, an academy with 87 students, and eight schools with 586 scholars. Pop. 2550. AMHERST is the name of a county, a township, and of several post town ships in the U. States. AMHERST ISLES, a group lying W. of the S.W. ex tremity of the Korean Peninsula, and distant from it about 60 m. ; lat. 34 25 N. ; Ion. 126 E. There is another island of the same name off the S.W. coast of Arracan, between the island of Cheduba and the mainland ; lat. 18 45 N. ; Ion. 94 E. In the Tong Hai or Eastern Sea, off the coast of the Chinese province of Kiang, there is a dangerous i ledge called Amherst Rocks, in lat. 31 10 N. 17 AM1IEKSTBURGI1 130 AMLWCH AMHEESTBURGH, a garrison tn. Upper Canada, W. dist., Essex co., 1. bank, Detroit, 5 in. above its junction with Lake Erie, 225 m. W.S.W. Toronto; lat. 42 7 N. ; Ion. 83 9 W. Its streets are generally narrow ; and the town contains a courthouse, five places of worship, Episcopalian, R. catholic, Presbyterian, Methodist, and Baptist ; a reading room, and a market place. Two annual fairs are held in virtue of a charter obtained in 1845. It has a good harbour with 3J fathoms water. Numerous steamers touch here. Pop. (1852), 1880. (Smith s Canadian Gaz.) AMICU, or AMUCU, a lake, S. America, in Venezuela, prov. Cumana; situated in a level tract, between the rivers Rupunoony and Tocoto. It is of small extent in the dry season, being scarcely three m. in length, and almost covered with rushes; but after the rains, it inundates the adjacent low districts. The country in which this lake is situated was the El Dorado of the days of Queen Elizabeth, and was then known as the Great Lake with golden banks; and within a few miles of it was supposed to stand the far-famed imperial and golden city of Manoa, the object of the unfor tunate expedition of Sir Walter Raleigh. AMIENS [anc. Somarobriva, Amliani], n tn. France, cap. dep. Somme, on the railway from Boulogne to Paris, in the centre of a pleasing and fertile district, and traversed by the Somme, which, within the town, is subdivided into 11 canals, and affords great facilities for its numerous manufac tures. It was once a place of strength, and still possesses a regular citadel, but its other fortifications have been dis mantled, and the ramparts have been replaced by boulevards, lined with trees, which, encircling the town, have a circum ference of about 3 m., and form not the least important of its j decorations. Amiens is divided into the upper and the lower town. The former has wide and regular streets, lined with houses with few exceptions built on an uniform plan, and generally of two stories. The latter has narrow streets, houses old, without being properly ancient, and in throughout so intersected by the ramifications of the Somme and the numer ous bridges over them, as to have made Louis XI. give it the name of his little Venice. The most magnificent edifice of Amiens is its cathedral, of European fame. It was founded in 1220, and not completed till 1288. Its W. front, which is said not to have been finished till a century later, is flanked by two quadrangular towers, and is decorated in the richest Gothic style. The spire, of a light and airy form, is 420 ft. high. The entrance is by three magnificent porches covered RUE ST. LEU with numerous bas-reliefs, on which scriptural and allegorical subjects are admirably represented. This magnificent struc ture, at once light arid bold in design, is in the form of a cross, composed of a nave and choir in the one direction, and a <ransept in the other. The broad and lofty windows are ranged in two tiers, and so closely that hardly any wall is visible. The entire length of the edifice from E to W. is 415 ft.; length of the transept from N. to S., 182 ft.; breadth of the nave, with its aisles, 78 ft. 9 inches ; breadth of the transept, 42 ft. 9 inches. Among the other buildings of note are the Hotel de Ville, with the painted arcades which line its base, and the large council hall, adorned with numer ous pictures; the royal college, formerly the abbey of St. John; the Hotel Dien or general hospital, in the Rue St. Leu; the grand seminary, with its magnificent stair and columned chapel ; the Chateau d Eau ; Malmaison, occupied by the exchange and school of design ; the theatre ; and the Bibliotheque Commnnalc, a handsome edifice, with a peristyle of Doric columns, containing 40,000 printed, and 400 MS. volumes. Amiens having an opening to the sea by the Somme, which is navigable for vessels of 40 or 50 tons, is well situated for trade, and has numerous important manufac tures. From 70,000 to 80,000 pieces of cotton velvet the particular species of it called velvet of Utrecht alone employ ing 400 looms and 130,000 pieces of fine kerseymere, with considerable quantities of serges, plush, drugget, cambric, tapestry, and other cotton, linen and woollen stuffs, in great variety, are annually produced. The spinning of flax and worsted also is one of the great staples of Amiens. The former employs 3000 looms, while the wool worked up by the latter amounts to 450 million kilogrammes, equal nearly to 1000 millions English Ibs., or 40 million packs. Among the miscellaneous works, in which numerous hands are employed, may be mentioned dye, soap, and beet-root sugar works, bleachfields, and paper mills. One peculiar product for which Amiens has long been famous is duck pies, known by the name of Pates de Canard, and largely exported to all quarters. Among historical recollections may be mentioned that here St. Louis gave judgment, as arbiter, in the quarrel between Henry III. of England and his barons, relative to the statutes of Oxford ; and that here, during the struggles to regain the Holy Land, the kings of England, France, Aragon, Navarre, and Bohemia, met to concert a new crusade. Here, too, to come down to more recent times, was signed, in 1802, between Great Britain and France, the short-lived peace which bears the name of Amiens. Pop. 47,000. AMIRANTES, a group of small islands, Indian Ocean, S.W. from the Seychelles, between lat. 4 and 6 S., and Ion. 54 and 56 E., about 300 in. N.N.E. the isl. of Madagascar. They differ little from each other, being generally from 1 J to ?i m. in length, situated on coral banks, and seldom exceed 20 or 25 ft. in height, but they are crowned with trees. They are thinly inhabited, and insufficiently cultivated, but the coasts abound with fish, and the islands furnish vessels in passing with water, cocoa nuts, buffaloes, sheep, and turtle. By digging 12 or 14 ft., wa ter may generally be obtained. Calms, and uncertain currents, with the want of good anchorage, make it desirable not to approach these islands with large ships. The group has belonged to Great Britain since 1814. AMISUS, an anc. seaport, Asia Mi nor, on the Black Sea; lat. 41 18 N. ; Ion. 36 20 E. Few vestiges of it now exist. The principal are the remains of its ancient pier, composed of large blocks of a volcanic conglomerate, some of which measure 1 9 ft. by 6 or 8 inches in thickness. AMJERAH, a tn. Hindoostan. prov. Malwa, 56 in. S.W. Oojein, and 12 m. W. Dhar; lat. 22 23 N. ; Ion. 75 13 H. ; situated in a large valley, 1890 ft. above the sea. It has good itaic ft ritu.re.que. bazaars, plentifully supplied. AM LAI, or AMLIA, one of the Aleutian Islands, Fox group; lat. (E. point) 52 6 N.; Ion. 172 50 W. (R.) AMLWCH [pronounced Amlook], a bor , seaport, and par., N. Wales, N. coast isl. Anglesey. The TOWN lies on a ris ing ground on the sea-shore, 14 m. W. by N. Bangor, about 14 m. N.E. by E. Holyhead, arid 5Gm. W. by N. Liverpool ; lat. AMMAN 131 AMOKGO 53 24 N.; Ion. 4 19 W. It consists of one main street, about a mile in length, and of several diverging lanes and alleys. The houses are generally well built of stone, which abounds in the vicinity. The principal buildings are the church, the national school, and the scientific hall, all plain edifices, without any pretensions to architectural elegance. There are, besides the church, two Calvinistie chapels, one Independent, one Baptist, and two Wesleyan. The most important school is the national school, in which (March, 1 850) about 300 children are educated. There are also three day schools, and an excellent literary and scientific institution, with a library and museum attached. The staple article of commerce is copper ore, obtained in the neighbouring Parys mountains, the working of which gives employment to about 1000 persons, though not so flourishing at present as formerly. The shipping interest of the place is in a more thriving con dition. At the head of the pier, which is of stone, there are 20 ft. at spring, and 13 ft. at neap tides ; within there is a dock capable of holding several vessels. A small white lighthouse stands at the end of the N. point, exhibiting a fixed light, which may be seen, in clear weather, 4 m. off. Amlwch unites with the Beaiimaris district in returning a member to the House of Commons. Fop. of the tn. in 1341, 1243; of the par. 4974. (Correspondent in Amlwch.) AMMAN, or AMMON [the Itdbbnli of Scripture, and Phil adelphia of the Greeks], a ruined and deserted city, Syria, pash. Damascus, 16 m. E.S.E. Szalt, and 58 m. N.E. Jeru salem; lat. 32 5 N.; Ion. 30 20 E. Its ruins are scattered along the N. bank, and near the source of a small stream, called Moie Amman, a tributary of the Terka or Turka [anc. Jabbok], and sufficiently attest its former grandeur. There are the remains of a spacious church, several temples and columns, a high bridge over the river, on each side of which there are walls like quays, and whose channel is paved ; and a castle, on a hill N. of the city. South of the river stood a large theatre, 304 ft. in diameter, with forty-two tiers of seats, built on the declivity of a hill, and partly excavated in the solid rock. The whole plain on which the city stood, 1 m. long, by 1 J m. broad, is covered with the remains of all kinds of edifices, exhibiting traces of different eras, and composed of a calcareous stone, ill suited to resist the action of the elements. (Burckhardt s Travels in Syria; Kitto s Physical Geography of Palestine ; &c.) AMMER, a river, Bavaria; it rises at the head of Gras- wang valley, on the frontiers of Tyrol ; flows in a crooked course N.E. ; forms, about 22 m. S. W. Munich, the Ammersee (Lake Ammcr), 10 m. long, by 2 broad; and falls into the Isar, near Mosburg, after receiving the waters of several affluents. Total length, about 100 in. AMMERSCHW1IIZ, or AMMERSWEYEU, a small tu. France, dep. Ilaut-lvhin, about 5 in. from Colmar. Both red and white wines, of excellent quality, are made in the vicinity. Pop. 2169. AMMITOK, an isl., N.E. coast of Labrador, between 70 and 80 m. S.E. the entrance into Hudson s Straits; lat. 59 28 N. ; Ion. 63 W. AMMOO, a river, Persia. See Oxus. AMOAS, or ASIWAS [anc. EmmausaK&Nicopolis], a small tn. or vil. Palestine, on a conical hill, about 10 m. N.W. Jerusalem. It was at one time a bishop s seat. Both this and Al-Kubeibeh, a village about half the distance of Amoas from Jerusalem, have been confounded with the Einmaus of Scripture, the site of which is now unknown. There is another village of Palestine named Einmaus or El-hamam, beside the lake, and near the town of Tiberias, celebrated, from remote antiquity, for its hot springs, which are of a high tern perature, and possess medicinal qualities. This place, and its vicinity, exhibit the remains of many ancient baths, from which it has received its name. Over the springs has been more recently erected, by Ibrahim Pasha, a large circular bathing house, with a dome, similar to the baths of Constantinople. (Robinson s Biblical Researches; Kitto s Palestine; &c.) AMOL, a tn. Persia, the third in importance in prov. Mazuuderan, 27 m. W.S.W. Balfroosh; lat. 36 30 N.; Ion. 52 23 E. ; on the Herauz, a full and rapid stream, about 12 m. above its embouchure, in the Caspian Sea. Ainol, which is without walls or defences, was formerly a flourishing place, as extensive ruins in the neighbourhood testify, among wiiich is the once splendid mausoleum of Seyed Quwam u Deen, once Sovereign of Saree and Amol, who died in 1378, erected by Shah Abbas, one of his descendants. In the suburbs are a grand palace, which belonged to Shah Abbas ; and three towers, said to have been temples of the ancient Guebres, or fire worshippers. The number of houses alto gether is between 4000 and 5000. The bazaars are large, and well supplied ; but beyond mere local traffic, there is little or no trade. The inhabitants cultivate rice and cotton, or are employed in the iron forges arid cannon foundries of the district. In summer they retire to their yeylaks or summer houses, iu the mountains, which approach to within 5 or 6 m. of the town on the S. In winter, when it is fullest, Amol is supposed to contain a population of from 35,000 to 40,000. AMONEBURG, a tn. Hesse-Casscl, 11 m. E.N.E. Mar burg, on a basalt hill, in which are numerous springs. It is partly surrounded by a wall, with towers, and by a ditch ; is irregularly and badly built ; and has a church, and a spacious marketplace. Pop. 1143. AMOOR, AMUR, or SAGHALIEN, a large river, Asia, in the Chinese prov. Manchooria. It is formed of the rivers Shilka and Argun, which unite in lat. 53 30 N. ; Ion. 122 E., on the frontiers of Russia and China. The former of these is formed by the Ingoda and the Onon, the latter being the main stream ; and rising about lat. 49 50 N. ; Ion. 1 10 E. ; in the Khentai Khan, a branch of the mountains S.E. Lake Baikal, called Khing-Khan-oola by the Chinese, and Yablonoi Krebit by the Russians. Its sources are in the Russian gov. Irkutsk, but it crosses the Chinese frontier, and again returns to Siberia, in which it continues with a N.E. course till it joins the Argun on the frontier, under the name of the Shilka, as already stated. The Argun in the early part of its course named the Kerulen, Kerlon, or Lu- Khiu rises about 30m. S.E. from the sources of the Onon ; and in the same mountain range that gives rise to that stream, follows a N.E. course, about lat. 49 N. ; Ion. 116 E., forms Lake Kulon; and from 25 m. N.E. of that lake, till it unites with the Shilka in forming the Amoor, constitutes, for 300 m., the boundary between Rus sia and China. The Amoor, from the junction of these two streams, flows S.E. to Tchan, where, from the S., it receives the Songari, lat. 47 45 N.; Ion. 131 40 E.; thence it flows N.E. to its embouchure in the Gulf of Sagalin or Saghalieu, opposite the N.W. end of the island of the same name, lat. 52 8 N. ; Ion. 140 E. Besides the Songari, the Amoor receives from the S. the Ousouri, lat. 48 30 N.; Ion. 134 25 E.; and from the N., the united waters of the Tchikcri and Silimpdi, near Sagaliu-oola, lat. 50 N.; Ion. 126 30 E. It has likewise numerous smaller affluents. The whole course of the Amoor, including its windings, is estimated at 2380 geo. in.; and the area of its basin, 582,880 geo. sq. m, It is a rapid stream, navigable from the junction of its two head streams, and is annually frozen over. Its navigation, long kept strictly by the Chinese to themselves, was, in 1847, opened up to Russia, to whom was then conceded the right to trade in its waters. AMOORANG, or AMOURAKG, a bay,^md vil. same name, isl. Celebes. The BAY is on the N.W. coast; lat. 1 11 S.; Ion. 124 36 E. ; it is about 14 geo. m. long inland, and about 6 geo. m. broad, shaped something like an open-mouthed bag, and having anchorage for large vessels, The VIL. lies at the head of the bay, 25 geo. m. S.W. Menado. AMORBACII, a tn. Bavaria, circle Lower Main, at the confluence of the Mudau and Bilbach, 44 m. S.S.E. Fraukfort- on-the-Main; lat. 49 38 N.; Ion. 9 12 E. It has a palace, in which the Prince of Leiningen resides, and which was once a richly-endowed abbey of Benedictines; two churches, a. school of design, infirmary, and almshouse. Manufactures: Linen, paper, gunpowder, flour, and oil. It has two saw, and two fulling mills. Pop. 2900. AMORGO [anc. Amorgos], an isl. Grecian Archipelago, be tween Naxia and Stampalia, about 22 m. long, by 5 m. broad; lat. 36 50 42" N. ; Ion. 25 55 42" E. (R.) It is mountainous and rocky, but its valleys are fertile, producing grapes and olives. It has a town of the same name, with a castle ; and a large harbour, called Santa Anna. Near it is a Greek con vent, built on a steep rock overhanging the sea, and accessible only by ladders. Amorgo was formerly a populous island, with some considerable towns, and was the birthplace of the poet Sinionides. Its present population, of whom a consider able proportion are French and English, amounts to 2500. AMOKGO-POULO 132 AMPHILA AMORGO-POULO, a small isl. Grecian Archipelago, S. of Amorgo, lat. 36 36 54" N. ; Ion. 25 42 45" E. (R.) almost uninhabited. AMOU, or AMOU-DAHIA. See Oxu3. AMOUR (ST.) 1, A tn. France, dep. Jura, 19 m. S.W. Lons-le-Saulnier. It has sawmills, driven by water power, for cutting sandstone and marble; iron mills, forges, tanneries, nailworks, and potteries; and some trade in wines, cattle, horses, and poultry. The remains of an old castle, which belonged to the family of Choiseul, and had extensive forti fications, are found here. Top. 1939. 2, A vil., dep. Saone- ct-Loire, 7 m. from Macon. Pop. 792. AMOY, a seaport tn. China, on an island of the same name, prov. Fokien; lat. (citadelj 24- 26 N.; Ion. 118 4 E. (it.) nearly opposite the centre of the island of Formosa. The name is a corruption of the Chinese word Heamun, pronounced by the natives Ha-moy. It is situated at the S. end of tha island, at the mouth of two united rivers, one of which com municates with the city Chang-chaw-foo, containing, it is said, upwards of 800,000 inhabitants, and of which Amoy, though itself a large and populous city, is considered merely the port. Amoy is built on a declivity sloping to the harbour, and, including its suburbs, is supposed to be about 9 m. in circum ference. The streets are narrow and dirty, but many of the buildings are of extraordinary size. In one, the residence of the under governor, an entire British regiment was quartered ; and another, with its staff, found ample accommodation in the Admiral s office. The town is at once protected and com manded by a citadel, the walls of which are castellated, and from 15 to 30 ft. high, with an inner rampart all the way round. It has four gates, and is a mile in circumference. A range of lulls, about 600 ft. high, with broken and abrupt eminences, surround the city. The bay and harbour are safe and commodious, of easy access and egress, and of such depth of water, that vessels anchor within 50 yards of the houses. The entrance to the inner harbour is by a channel of 675 to 840 yards width. Amoy is well situated for both foreign and native trade, and being the emporium of the province, both are considerable ; although, from the imperfect manner in which the trade returns are made up, their precise extent cannot be ascertained. The total amount of British and foreign trade for the three years ending 1848, is stated as follows: 184C 261,240, of which 176,372 were British. 184? 271,441 186,896 1848 212,416 97,373 Smuggling is carried on to a great extent. No foreign merchants reside at Amoy. The city is divided into districts, over each of which a sort of petty governor or tepro pre sides, who collects the taxes, and is expected to maintain peace and good order in his district. The houses are again divided into three classes; the first, paying 10s. annually; the second, 6s. &d. ; and the third, 4s. The recognized taxes are a house, poll, and a land tax. The native imports are rice, sugar, and camphor from Formosa and Fuh-chow ; aJum and cotton from Shanghai ; and grain, pulse, oilcake, and a coarse description of cotton goods, from the northern ports. The foreign imports are Bengal and Bombay cotton, English cotton goods, cotton yarn, iron, lead, steel, betel nut, liquid indigo from Manilla, pepper, ratans, rice, and grain, beche-de-mer, sharks fins, buffalo and deers horns. The native exports are camphor, sugar, sugar candy of the finest quality, earthenware, paper umbrellas, paper, joss paper, joss stick, &c. The current coins are Spanish and Mexican dollars, and rupees; doubloons and guilders are also in frequent use. The island being extremely barren, the inhabitants are de pendent on the neighbouring island of Formosa for almost all the necessaries of life. The merchants of Amoy are distinguished for their enter prise, and are considered amongst the wealthiest in the Chinese empire. They own upwards of 300 junks some of them 800 tons burden with which they carry on an extensive trade with Borneo, Manilla, Macassar, Java, the Soo-loo Islands, Singapore, &c. The municipal government of Amoy is marked by all the vices that everywhere distinguish Chinese rule, being as weak and inefficient as it is vicious and corrupt; bribery, fraud, and extortion, prevail in every department, and riot and bloodshed go unchecked and unpunished. Nor is the morality of the inhabitants in a better condition ; robbery and assassination are frequent, and the murder of female infants, by their parents, so common, amounting, it is said, to 40 per cent., as to attract hardly any attention, exciting no remorse on the part of the unnatural perpetrators, and no indignation on that of the populace. It is, however, but justice to add, that the Chinese Government has here, as elsewhere, made an attempt to arrest the progress of this particular species of crime, by erecting a foundling hospital; but with so little effect, that in a pond hard by the hospital at Amoy, the bodies of several infants, sewed up in mats, were discovered by the British soon after their occupation of that town. A system of the grossest immorality also prevails. On the British taking possession of the island of Amoy, on which the town stands, they found a battery 1100 yards long, mounting 90 guns and constructed with extraordinary skill. There were several other smaller forts and batteries, one of which mounted 42 guns. Amoy was captured by the British on August 26, 1841, and by the treaty of Nanking, dated Au gust 29, 1842, that port, with others, was opened to our trade, and a British consul established there. A supplementary treaty, dated October 8, 1843, established a tariff of exports and imports, and admitted other foreigners to the same privileges as British subjects. Shortly after the occupation of Amoy by the British, the native superintendent of trade represented to the Emperor, that most of the great mercantile establishments there had been ruined by the war, and that the duties had fallen to little more than one-third of their former amount. The remittances from Amoy for foreign and English manufactures, are chiefly in tea and silk. Opium is sold in every part of Amoy, and is hawked through the streets. The consumption is estimated at 150 chests per month, the average value being 1 70 sterling per chest. The population mostly employed in the coasting trade amounts to about 250,000 to 300,000. (Gutzlaff s Journal; Martin s China; The Middle Kingdom.} AM PAN AN, AMPINAN, or AMPUNAN, the principal trading port in the isl. of Lornbok, Indian Archipelago. It lies in the Strait of Lombok, lat. 8 30 S.; Ion. 116 E., in an open roadstead, in the midst of rice fields, and surrounded by a few cocoa and other fruit trees; but unsheltered from the S.E. monsoon when it is very hot. Few vessels visit Ampanan without leaving one or more of their crew in the white man s grave. (Jour. Indian Archipelago, vol. iii.) AMPAZA, a seaport tn., E. Africa, coast of Zanzibar, j cap. of a small kingdom of the same name, tributary to the j Portuguese. It has a considerable trade in slaves, gold dust, and ivory. AMPFING, a vil. Bavaria, 6 m. N.W. Miihldorf; and 39 m. E.N.E. Munich. In 1322, Ludwig, Emperor of Ba varia, here took prisoner Frederick the Beautiful, Emperor of Austria; and here, in 1800, Moreau commenced his famous retreat before the superior forces of the Archduke John. Pop. 476. AMPHILA, a bay, Ked Sea, N.E. coast of Abyssinia, having twelve islands, one of which is named Safety Island, AMPH1NOME SHOALS 133 AMSTEL and another Amphila. The centre of the bay is in lat. 14 43 N. ; Ion. 41 4 E. ; and the islands are chiefly composed of madrepores, corals, and echinites ; they generally rise about 30 ft. above the sea level, and are covered merely with a thin layer of soil. The bay is tolerably deep; and from Amphila Point on the S., to its most N. point, is about 15 m. across. It is frequented by numerous kinds of fish, by pelicans, herons, and other aquatic birds; its shores are covered with jungle, and yield good firewood. AMPHINOME SHOALS, Australia, N.W. coast; lat. 19 41 S.; Ion. 119 22 E. (K.) AMPHITKITE ISLANDS, a part of the group known by the name of the Paracels, in the China Sea, lying to the S.E. of the island of Hainan. The Amphitrites are in two groups, to the N.N.W. and S-S.E. of each other, and having a. deep water channel between them. The N. group consists of five low, narrow islands, connected by a reef of rocks that projects 2 or 3 m. beyond their extremes. The S. group consists of two islands, called, respectively, Woody and Rocky Islands, lying near each other. The first is in lat. 16 50 N.; Ion. 112 18 E. (R.) and is about 3 m. in circum ference, covered with small trees; the second, Rocky Island, is in lat. 16 52 N.; Ion. 112 20 E. AMPLEFORTH, a par. England, co. York. N. Riding; 2270 ac.; 4 m. S.W. by S. Helrnsley. Pop. in 1841, 446. AMPLEPU1S, a tn. France, dep. Rhone, 21 m. W.S.W. Villefranche. Manufactures : Cotton cloth, ginghams, mus- lins, and calicoes. It has also several cotton mills, driven by water power, and bleachfields. Pop. 1901. AMPNEY, the name of four parishes, England, all in co. Gloucester: 1, Ampney- Crucis, area, 2660 ac. ; 3J m. E. Cirencester. Pop. in 1841, 591. 2, Ampney-Down, 2470 ac.; 5 m. S.E. Cirencester. Pop. in 1841, 425. 3, Ampney (St. Mary), 1170 ac. ; 4 m. E. by S. Cirencester. Pop. in 1841, 121. 4, Ampney (St. Peter], 860 ac. ; adjoining the above. Pop. in 1841, 196. AMPORT, a par. England, co. Hants; 3460 ac.; 4 m. W. by S. Andover. Pop. in 1841, 771. AMPOSTA, a tn. Spain, in Catalonia, prov. of, and 46 m. S.W. from Tarragona, 1. bank of the Ebro, 13 m. from its mouth. It is partly walled, overlooked on the N. by a castle ; and has two squares, two churches, a large, well-conducted school, and is the N. terminus of the Ebro Canal, which enters the Mediterranean at Port Alfagues. Manufactures : Soap, gypsum, and oil. Exports : Grain, with which the vicinity abounds. Imports: Rice and salt fish. Pop. 1674. AMPTHILL, a market tn. and par. England, co. Bed ford ; the former pleasantly situate, partly .upon, and partly between two gentle acclivities, 40 m. N. by W. London. It is neat, clean, and regularly built, and contains many good houses, with an excellent market-place. The church is an ancient edifice, with a tower at the E. end. There are places of worship also for Wesleyans, Independents, and the Society of Friends. Besides other charities, there are almshouses near the church for 12 widows, and at a little distance from the town are almshouses for nine men and four women. There is also a charity school for 10 boys and 14 girls, and various other schools, of which the national school is the most im portant. With exception of an extensive brewery, and a little lace and straw-plait working, there are no manufactures in Ampthill. Market-day, Thursday ; two cattle fairs annually in May and November. Petty sessions are held by the county magi strates. The Ampthill station on the Bedford Branch of the London and North Western Railway, is 2 m. N.W. the town, and a little W. is Ampthill house, formerly the residence of Lord Holland. Area of par. 1928 ac. Pop. (1841), 2001. AMPTON, a par. England, co. Suffolk ; 870 ac. ; 4 m. N. Bury St. Edmunds. Pop. in 1841, 147. AMPUD1A, a tn. Spain, in Leon, prov. of, and 18 m. S.W. from Palencia. It possesses a small but convenient square, some ill-built and narrow streets, a parish church, towiihouse, hospital, granary, and two schools. Pop. 1836. AMRAN, a tn. Arabia, in Yemen, cap. dist. same name ; 25 m. N.W. Sana, and 108 E.S.E. Loheia; lat. 15 32 N.; Ion. 43 52 E. ; at the foot of a hill, in a fertile country, in the midst of coffee plantations. Pop. estimated at 2000. AMRAN MOUNTAINS, a range in the S.E. part of Afghanistan, the highest summits of which attain an eleva tion of about 9000 feet. It is traversed by the Kojuk Pass, 7457 ft. high. These mountains bound the table lands of Shawl and Pisheen on the W. AMRAWUTTY, or OMKAUTTE, a tn. India, prov. Berar, 90 m. W. by S. Nagpoor, and 30 m. S.E. by. E. Ellichpoor; lat. 20 54 N.; Ion. 77 57 E. It is a large and populous town, and has a considerable inland traffic. AMREE, a vil. Sinde, r. bank, Indus, 18 m. S.S.W. Sehwun. It was formerly a large town, but portions of it have been swept away by the river, and it is now greatly diminished in size. AMRJTSER, AMRITSAR, or UMRITSIR, a large and popu lous city of the Punjab, in the Barri Doab, 40 m. E. Lahore; lat. 31 40 N.; Ion. 74 56 E. It is of a compact circular form, about 9 m. in circumference, and comprises 19,015 dwelling houses ; those of the upper classes are lofty and com modious, but the greater portion are confined, filthy, and crowded into narrow and dirty streets. There are 8272 shops, 399 Hindoo, and 49 Mahometan places of worship. The shops and bazaars exhibit, in great abundance, the richest products of India. An ample supply of excellent water is obtained from 650 wells. Amritser has been long celebrated as a holy place, in consequence of its possessing a sacred temple, situated on an island in the centre of a reservoir or tank, of about 150 paces square, constructed in 1581, by order of Ram Das, the fourth Guru or spiritual leader of the Sikhs, who gave to the work the name of Amrita Saras or Fount of Immortality. The water of the tank, supplied, apparently, by natural springs, is extremely pure ; and the temple, which is dedicated to Vishnu, is profusely adorned with gold, and costly embellishments. In the latter, the Guru of the Sikhs sits to receive the homage and offer ings of his followers, attended by 500 or 600 Akalis or priests attached to the temple. But the most remarkable object in the town is the large fortress of Govindghur, built by Runjeet Singh, surrounded by a deep ditch of about 2 m. circuit. It is abundantly supplied with water, but is in other respects exceedingly incommodious, and is, besides, unhealthy. A canal was constructed by the same chief, from Amritser to the Ravi, a distance of about 30 in.; but it is little used. The staple manufactures are shawls, inferior silks, and woollen and cotton cloths. The shawls, which are in imitation of those of Cash mere, are made of wool obtained from Thibet and Bokhara. In contrast to the Sikh inhabitants generally, who are noted for their cleanline-JS, the shawl weavers are represented as filthy in the extreme, and wan and emaciated in appearance. Amritser has also an extensive transit trade with various parts of India, and is in turn an emporium for many of their productions, including large quantities of rock salt, brought on camels from a mine 120 m. N. Lahore. East of the city there are numerous large gardens, stocked with orange, lime, lemon, peach, apple, and other fruit trees. The soil in the vicinity is very fertile, and the mode of cultivation superior to what is found in most parts of India. The crops are wheat, barley, maize, sugar cane, turnips, carrots, pump kins, &c. Pop. of the town, 115,000, of which 9000 are Sikhs, the rest being Hindoos and Mahometans. (Asiat. Soc. Transactions; Jaquemont s Letters from India; Moorcroft; Hiigel; &c.) AMROM, AMRON, or AMRUM, a crescent-shaped isl. Den mark, duchy Schleswig, in the German Ocean, about 17 in. from the mainland; lat. 54 40 N.; Ion. 8 20 E. It con tains a few villages, inhabited chiefly by fishermen and sailors, and constitutes a parish of Denmark, named St. Clement. Pop. 600. AMROOAH, a considerable tn. Hindoostan, nearly in the centre of prov. Delhi, 85 m. E. by N. the city of that name ; lat. 28 51 N.; Ion. 78 31 E. It contains a neat mosque; in the vicinity, there is an extensive garden, and, at a greater distance, large plantations of sugar and cotton; but the country around is generally poor, and thinly inhabited. AMROTH, a par., S. Wales, co. Pembroke, 7 m. S.E. Narberth. Pop. 779. AMSTEL, a small stream, Holland, one of the many mouths of the Rhine. It takes its rise from the Old Rhine in N. Holland, and forms a continuation of the Aar and the Drecht. It takes a N.E. course along the Lake of Haarlem, traverses the city of Amsterdam, and there falls into the Zuider Zee. It is canalized, and rendered navigable for vessels of considerable size. AMSTELVEEN 134 AMSTERDAM AMSTELVEEN, a vil. Holland, prov. N. Holland, 5 m. S. Amsterdam, in a moorish country betwixt the Amstel and the Lake of Haarlem. It consists of one long street, and has a neat church, a school, a poor s house, and an animal horse market. Pop. about 2500. (Van der Aa.) AMSTERDAM, formerly AMSTELREDAMME, or AEM- STELKEDAJIME, and also AMSTELUAM [The dike or dam of the Amstel ; Latin, Amttelodamum], an important commercial city, cap. kingdom and prov. Holland, at the confluence of the Amstel with the Y or Jj [pronounced Eye], an arm of the Zuider Zee connecting with the Lake of Haarlem ; lat. (steeple) 52 22 30" N. ; Ion. 4 53 15" E. (a.) It is the largest and most important town in Holland, constitutionally its capital, and in it the ceremony of coronation is performed ; but the scat of government and residence of the sovereign is j at the Hague. Amsterdam lies on soft wet morass ground, i under which, at a depth of 50 ft., is a bed of sand ; into this sand | the piles are driven on which buildings are reared. Be low the sand is a stratum of hard clay. The sea front of the city forms nearly a direct line along the Y, flanked at either end by extensive docks ; and near the centre intersected by the Dam-Kak, the principal mouth of the Amstel, which, | entering the city on the S.E., takes a winding course through | it, dividing it into the old and new side (Oude en Nicuwe Zijdi.}, \ and falls into the Y by this and numerous other courses. Towards the land, the walls of the city form a semicircle, sur rounded by a ditch 30 yards wide, bordered by a row of trees. The ramparts have been pulled down, and on the eight and twenty bastions have been erected as many windmills, for I grinding corn and other purposes. In the walls are eight handsome stone gates, named from the towns to which they [ lead, Utrecht gate, Haarlem gate, &c. Outside the walls, the city is surrounded by grassy meadows, and to the W. are upwards of 50 sawmills. Towards the sea, and on both sides of the Amstel, the streets are narrow and irregular, but behind this portion there are five main lines of streets follow ing the direction of the walls, and thus describing a semicircle. Of these the principal three, Heeren, Keizer, and Prinzens- graacht, for length, breadth, and general elegance, may vie with the streets of any capital in Europe. In the centre of each, as in most of the streets in Amsterdam, is a canal, either side of which is lined with broad brick-paved quays, planted with rows of trees. The minor streets run at right angles across these like the radii of a wheel, and many of them are very narrow ; those in which are the houses of sonic of the first merchants not being over 17 ft. wide; all are paved, well lighted, and kept very clean. The houses are mostly constructed of brick, almost all approached by flights of i steps ; many are six and seven stories high, pointed at the top with the gable toward the street, and decorated above with a forked chimney stalk; and their curious appearance is further heightened by the numbers that, more especially in i the business streets, are painted in a garish and tasteless style, and by many being swayed from the perpendicular, partly by the sinking of the foundation, and partly from the pecu liar method of construction adopted, many being narrower at the bottom than at the top. The city is cut up into 90 | islands by the canals, over which there are 250 bridges, mostly of stone, generally provided with a drawbridge in the centre. The vessels to be seen in all parts of the city loading and unloading, and passing to and fro along the canals, the lifting and lowering of drawbridges, the transit of merchandise on sledges, and the general stir of business, give the streets of Amsterdam an exceedingly lively and cheerful appearance. Amsterdam has no fine public squares, though it has 13 open places; and notwithstanding, that, as a whole, it is well built, it cannot be said to have any pretensions to architectural beauty ; even its public buildings will not bear comparison with those of many other European capitals- a fact scarcely to be wondered at, considering the physical difficulties the Dutch have to encounter in the erection of extensive fabrics, from the sinking of the piled foundations under the superin cumbent load. In 1822, an event of this description occurred ; the corn storehouses, built originally for the Dutch E. India Company, having actually sunk in the mud and disappeared, from the foundation giving way. At the time they sunk, they were loaded with upwards of 70,000 cwt. of corn. Public Buildings. The more remarkable buildings in Am sterdam is the palace, formerly the townhall. It stands in an open square, called den Dam, at the head of the Dam-Kak. and is a stone edifice, in form of a parallelogram, 202 ft. long, 206 ft. broad, and 108 ft. high (roof inclusive), resting on 13,059 piles, driven 70 ft. into the ground. It was erected by Jakob van Campen and Daniel Stalpart; begun in 1648, and completed in 1655; nearly destroyed by fire in 1762, and again in jeopardy from tho same element in 1806. At first DAM-RAK. AND UAM-RAK 1 ALACK, AMSTERDAM. From Dattj s Views of the Citus of Europe. it was occupied by the magistracy of the city for local courts; but in 1808 it became a royal palace, for which, indeed, it was originally constructed. It is chiefly remarkable for the great hall, 111 ft. long, 52 ft. wide, and 90 ft. high, lined with white Italian marble ; an apartment of great splendour. From the tower, which rises 50 ft. above the roof, a fine view of the city is obtained. In the vaults below the palace were formerly kept the treasures of the Amsterdam bank. The present townhall (stadkuis), formerly the Admir alty, is a large and commodious building, said to have been founded in the 14th century. The Justiciary Hall, next to the palace, is the finest building in the city. It is a modern erection, in imitation of a Grecian temple, and was opened in 1836. Other public buildings are the exchange, a plain but stately tile covered building of freestone, capable of contain ing 4500 persons ; the poor s house, house of correction, the weighhouse, the general storehouse, formerly the Admiralty magazine ; the Orange-Nassau barracks, capable of accom modating 3000 men; the city theatre, &c. Besides these, may be noticed the post office, colonial office, houses of the E. and W. India companies, and various offices and store houses for public and private purposes, and the three towers, named, respectively, Eegulierstoren, founded 1672, as a watch tower ; Schreijerstoren, or Mourner s tower, so named from the women coming here to weep for their husbands as they passed by to go on shipboard to the wars, and now used as the office of the dock master ; and Mont-Albaaustoreii, founded, it is supposed, as early as 1520. Of the numerous bridges in the city, the most important is the Amstel Bridge, 600 ft. long, and 60 ft. broad. It had originally 35 arches ; but in 1822 the two centre ones were taken down, and the space supplied with a drawbridge, so that masted vessels might be allowed to pass. The churches of Amsterdam are generally characterized by plainness and simplicity of structure. The finest in the city, and, according to the Dutch, one of the finest in Europe, is the New church (Nieuwe kerk], N. of the palace, founded 1408. It is 350 ft. long, by 210 ft. wide across the transepts; the upper part rests on 52 stone pillars, and the church is lighted by 75 large windows, some of which are finely painted. It contains the tombs of Admiral de lluiter, who sailed up the Medway, and burned the English fluct at Chatham ; of the famous Dutch poet Vondel, and of various other notable individuals. In this church the constitution was taken, March 29, 1814, and the following day the king was crowned as a sovereign prince. The Old church (Oude kerk}, founded in the 14th century, is only remarkable for three finely painted windows, and for containing the tombs of several Dutch admirals, and an organ, said to be second only to that of Iluar- AMSTERDAM 135 AMSTERDAM Jrrn. Besides these two, the Calvinistic, recognized as the State church, possesses eight other chapels and churches. The Evangelical Lutherans, numbering about 32,000, have two churches. The Scotch Presbyterians, Free Church of Scotland, and the English Episcopalians, the Moravians, Baptists, Friends, and Greeks, have their places of worship. The E. catholics, numbering about 45,000, have 16 churches; and the Jews, numbering in all about 2 1 ,500, have two prin cipal, and seven subsidiary, synagogues. Of these, one belongs to the Portuguese Jews, about 2500 in number, and the remainder to the Dutch Jews. Within the city there are eight churchyards (kerk-hof), of which one, St. Peter s, is chiefly used for the poor, more espe cially for those who die in the poor s house. The mode of sepulture being somewhat remarkable, we extract the follow ing description of it : The churchyard, usually adjoining the church, is surrounded by a wall to the height of 12 or 14 ft. The coffins are placed in rows, one above another, till they are nearly level with the top of the wall ; a little sand is then spread over them, and the hof is closed till the bodies are sufficiently decayed to be removed. The process is hastened ! by exposure to the atmosphere, but the nuisance to the neigh bourhood is intolerable. When Holland was in posses sion of the French, an attempt was made to do away with some of these disgusting cemeteries, and to provide more suitable places for the reception of the dead ; but the burgo masters pleaded the expense, as the soil being so marshy, it would require immense quantities of sand to make it solid enough for the purposes of interment, and strong embank ments to protect it from the floods ; and ultimately succeeded in maintaining the old method. When the hof has remained closed several years, while another has been filling, it is again opened ; the coffins are broken up, and the fragments tied up and sold as firewood ; the furniture is collected and sold to dealers in old iron ; the remaining bones are wheeled away in barrows, and thrown into a vault beneath the church ; and the rest is sold to farmers for manure. The hof is then swept out, and ready to receive new inmates. (Satur day Mag.} Charitable and Lenevolent Institutions, &c. Amsterdam is remarkable for the number and excellence of its benevolent and charitable institutions. There are above forty of them, many possessing buildings of considerable elegance. Among these are hospitals for the poor, the infirm, the aged of both sexes, orphans, widows, foundlings, the insane, &c., and institutions for the blind and for deaf mutes. Many of these being devoted to the members of one religious community, the I result is several hospitals of the same description ; thus the Calvinists, Lutherans, and Baptists, have each their hospital for old men and women ; the R. catholics have various similar institutions for their own members; and the Jews, in like manner, have hospitals for the sons of Israel. Other bene volent institutions are the humane society, for saving drowning people, founded by Jakob de Clercq in 1767, and the first of its kind in Europe ; the N. and S. Holland society, for saving shipwrecked people ; the society for the moral improvement of prisoners ; the cowpock institution, &c. Besides these, there are a Bible and two tract societies ; a society for further ing religious education among foundlings and orphans, and one for the promotion of religious education among the slaves and people of colour in the colonies ; the Magdalene asylum, and the spinhuis or workhouse, a department of which was formerly appropriated to the reformation of domes tic offenders. Extravagant wives were sent here by their alarmed husbands, to acquire more sober and thrifty habits ; ill-conducted husbands by their indignant wives, to learn better manners; and undutiful daughters, to be taught obedi ence to parental authority; some of the latter, it is said, being often of high families. Educational, Literary, Scientific, and Artistic Institutions. Amsterdam possesses numerous and excellent primary schools and other educational institutions, both of a general and special kind. Like the benevolent institutions, some of them are for particular religious denominations. Among the most important may be named the Athenceum Ulustre, with library, botanic garden, and school of anatomy, and chairs of art, law, medicine, and theology ; the city Latin school ; tha seminaries for educating preachers belonging to the Remon strants, Evangelical Lutherans, Baptists, and Dutch Israelites ; and the medical and clinical school. Of institutions of liter ature, science, and art, there are the royal academy of the fine arts, founded 1820, and having 450 pupils; the music school, founded 1784 ; the naval school ; the royal Dutch institution for science, literature, and the fine arts ; the society of literature and fine arts, called Felix Mentis, from the first words of a Latin inscription upon the front of the building. This last society has 400 members, all merchants and citizens, and is divided into four sections: 1, Literature, commerce, navigation, agriculture, and architecture; 2, Natural history ; 3, Drawing and design ; 4, Music. Besides these, there are several other societies of a similar kind, but the most import ant one of the whole is the society for the promotion of the public weal (de Maatschappij Tot Nut van t Alycmeen), established, in 1784, by J. Nieuwenhuyzen, a Baptist minister at Monnikendam, and having 13,000 members, and branch societies in almost every town in Holland. It has for its object the moral and religious improvement of the working classes, and their instruction in such brandies of education, &c., as seem necessary for enabling them to play the part of good citizens ; the improvement of school books, the estab lishment of Sabbath schools, savings banks, public lectures. &c. Last, but not least, must be named the museum of pic tures, founded 1798, by a person named Trip, from whom the building is called Trippenhuis. It contains a fine collection of the works of the Dutch masters, and one of the most re markable collections of prints in Europe, occupying 200 portfolios. Amusements. For in-door amusements, there are three theatres, and various other places of entertainment ; and for out-door recreation, there are the Plantaadje, or Plantation, in the E. end of the city, not far from the dockyards ; (he banks of the Amstel, outside the Utrecht gate ; and the dikes round the docks, all of which are much resorted to in good weather. A favourite amusement, likewise, is boating on the Amstel and the Y. Markets and Water. Amsterdam has three fish markets, the great sea, the river fish, and the Jews market. In the first, as its name imparts, sea fish are sold; in the second, the produce of the Amstel and other streams brought there by the peasants (Boeren], and hence called sometimes the Boeren- vischmarkt ; while the third, or Jodenmarkt, is for the sup ply of the Jews quarter. There are likewise in the city a cattle and sheep market, a pig, a butter, and various other markets, called by special names. A marketable article of great importance in this city is fresh water, which is very scarce. From the nature of the soil, none can be obtained from wells. The inhabitants are, therefore, supplied either by rain water collected in cisterns, or by water carriers, whose boats lie in the canals, and who fetch it from the river Vecht, or from springs at Utrecht. Arising from this state of mat ters, the quantity of Selzer water, mixed with Rhenish or Bordeaux wine consumed, is very great. Manufactures and Commerce. Amsterdam has long been, and still is, famous for its banking establishments, and for its insurance companies ; the amount of business done in both branches being very considerable. Its manufactures, though not very extensive, are still important. They consist chiefly of linen, woollen cloths, and cotton to a limited ex tent; thread, calico printing, dyeing, tobacco, soap, oil, canvas, cordage, the refining of salt, sugar, and other substances, glass blowing, brewing, distilling; gas, commenced in 1846; steam engines and machinery, and tools -of various kinds, boilers, iron steamers, and other kinds of iron vessels and shipbuilding. Amsterdam, however, ranks much higher as a trading, than as a manufacturing town. The quantities of the chief articles imported in 1851-53 are shown in the following table: 1S51. Sugar, ll>s Indigo, chests . Cochineal Tobacco barrels Nortli Aniericim,... package- Olhw kinds,"."!!! Rice Carolina barrels Java, Aracaii, &e... bags Palm-oil, casks Paper bags llbl, -250,0.1(1 1,156 557 5,434 11,300 10,393 2,080 138,168 1.0H4 8,700 132,000,000 2,17fi 685 6,980 1 4 050 13-2,600,000 "4.3 IS | 160,987 !, "00,000 It s AMSTERDAM 136 AMSTERDAM Nutmegs Mace, Cloves , Tea, Tin Cotton, Hides, Rosin, Hemp, Copper, Tar, Potash, .. barrels bap. .. .. chests. . . bars bales number .... barrels Ibs. avoi.d. tons barrels..., Grain of all kiud,.... quarters.. 1/nitseed, tous Kape-seed, , Coffee, bags Pepper Wheat, Rye Barley Buckwheat, Pease uarters 5,000 | 65,268 10.5S3 i 117,000 7,19:? 1, 936,000 85S.OOO 9,565 6,181 215,600 6,500 407,269 8.700 81,640 72,560 5,670 16,700 6.000 893 120 "7,500 79,873 12,972 48,500 4,588 2.782.000 2.G75.6M) 9,800 6,868 547,900 4,318 197,960 177.020 11,400 61,569 8,400 32,7*3 9,680 . .i 18,000 3,520 00 10,407 7,492 2,598 nioeol 7,140 111,030 13,020 14.9SO 38,b40 The exports consist of refined sugar (in 1853), 9,038,983 Ibs., raw sugar (in 1 Q 53), 36,699,912 Ibs.. coffee, spices, thread, cheese, butter, oil, dyes, colours, corn, and meal. The countries chiefly traded with are Britain, the Hanse towns, U. States, Italy, Prussia, Russia, Norway, Denmark, Hanover, France, Dutch India, E. and \V. The largest exports are to Ger many aud along the Chine, amounting to nearly one-third of the whole; but from these localities the imports are very limited. The following table gives a condensed return of the shipping cleared inwards and outwards, by the customs authorities of the port, in four recent years : - ARRIVALS Vessels. Tonnage. In 1850 2028 313,082 1851 1951 333,831 1852 2234 374523 1853 1848 320,412 In 1850 185G 1851 2145 1852 2255 1853 1887 Tonnage. 325,78:5 . 390,096 339,476 The port of Amsterdam is about a mile and a half long, and is defended from the encroachments of the Y by a double row of piles driven into the ground, and connected by horizontal beams. At either end are the E. and W. docks, capable of holding 1000 vessels. The approach to the port by the Zuider Zee being impeded with sandbanks, a canal, called the Nieuwe Diep, was completed in 1825, leading from Buiksloot, on the opposite side of the Y, to the N. Sea at the Helder, a distance of 50 m. This immense canal is 1 25 ft. broad at its surface, 36 ft. at the bottom, with a depth of 20 ft. 9 inches. It is on the level of the high tides of the sea, from which it derives its supplies of water. Means of Communication. By the Amstel, the Zuider Zee, and various canals, Amsterdam has water communication with j all parts of Holland ; and by railway it communicates on the one side with Haarlem, the Hague, and Rotterdam ; and on the other side with Utrecht, Arnheim, and Prussia. Health. The canals by which the city is intersected in all \ directions, however convenient as highways of business, and j however picturesque in general appearance, exhale damp vapours, making the atmosphere very moist. These canals are the receptacles of all kinds of filth. The water in them ! is stagnant, and generally of an olive-green colour. It is ! penerally 8 or 9 ft. deep, and below it are 5 or 6 ft. of mud, which, being stirred up by every vessel that passes, exhales mephitic odours. Great care is taken to cleanse these canals and the town generally. The water in them is, as far as pos sible, discharged into the Y, and supplied anew from the Amstel as frequently as possible ; but the level of the latter being only 1 ft. above the level of the lowest tide of the for mer, this mode of cleansing must necessarily be imperfect. In some of the canals, to prevent stagnation, the water is kept in motion by mills, that, at the same time, draw off large quantities of mud, which is sold for manure. With all these disadvantages, few towns possess more healthy and robust inhabitants than Amsterdam. Whatever effect, therefore, the damp and fetid vapours may have upon strangers, they do not appear to act in a prejudicial manner on the health of the natives. Government. The government is vested in a senate or council of 36 members, and 12 burgomasters. The members of the council sit during life, and fill up the vacancies that occur in their own number by their own suffrages. The bur gomasters, who are chosen by the citizens, out of a double number first nominated by the council, sustain the active magistracy of the city in rotation ; the government of each lasting only three months, and the four who are to preside during the year being annually appointed burgomasters regent. These magistrates have the keys of the bank de posited with them. There is also a court of burgomasters which decides all criminal causes ; but in civil causes there is an appeal to the provincial council. The police is under excellent regulations, and street robberies and house breaking are seldom heard of. Very few beggars are seen in the streets, and these are generally the aged and infirm. History. Early in the 13th century, Amsterdam was a mere fishing village, with a small castle, the residence of the lords of Amstel. Towards the middle of that century, it was constituted a town, and in 1296 was wrested by William III., Count of Holland, from the lords of Amstel. In 1340, Wil liam IV. bestowed on it a municipal constitution, and 40 years afterwards it became a place of some importance. In 1482, it was walled and fortified ; it was subsequently attacked by the Gelderlanders, who burned the suburbs, and a number of ves sels in the port. A party of Anabaptists, headed by a shoe maker called John of Leyden, attempted, in 1525, to surprise and take possession of the town during night, but they were repulsed. Its career of real prosperity commenced about the year 1578, when it became a part of the United Provinces, although previously to that period it had nearly monopolized the trade of the Baltic. Additional privileges were granted it by the Prince of Orange in 1581, while the siege and con sequent decline of Antwerp in 1585, and the shutting of the navigation of the Scheldt in 1648, were the means of raising Amsterdam to the rank of the first commercial city in Europe. Although its prosperity was checked by the ravages of a pes tilence, which, in 1602, cut off about 60,000 of its population, by the wars of Cromwell in 1653, and by other disasters, it continued to flourish till the stormy period of the first French revolution. During its time of prosperity, the burgomasters had acquired such authority in the assembly of the States, as to rival that of the stadtholder himself ; the reputation of its merchants for honesty and frugality had greatly contributed to the establishment and increase of its trade ; its harbour was always filled with ships, laden with all the productions of the E. and W. ; and the city had become the wealthiest in Europe. But the French Revolution, and the compulsory alliance and complete incorporation of Holland with France, had almost annihilated the commerce of Amsterdam, both foreign and domestic. After the changes which took place in 1813, it began to revive, and has since steadily improved. Among the numerous famous individuals to whom Amster dam has given birth, may be named the philosopher Spinosa, the naturalist Swammerdam, the painters Adrian and William Van de Welde, and John and Michael Van Huisum, and Admiral de Ruiter. Pop. (1850), 224,235; of which above 20,000 are Jews. (Van der Aa s Nederlanden ; Overzigt van den liandel van Amsterdam, in 18 17, ingelevert by de Lcden der Kamer van Koophandel en Fabrijken aan Heeren Burge- meester en WclJimtderen der Stad Amsterdam ; Family Tour through S. Holland; Diet. Geo. et Slat.; Murray s Handbook; Saturday AMSTERDAM 137 ANAM AMSTERDAM. 1, A small volcanic isl. Indian Ocean ; lat. 37 52 S. ; Ion. 77 35 E. (n.) ; discovered by Van Vlam- ing, a Dutchman, in 1696. It is 2760 ft. high, about 4 in. long, and 2^ broad ; but a great portion of its area is occupied by a basin, about 2 m. in circumference, formed by the sea in the extinct crater of a volcano. The sides of the basin rise, at an angle of 65, to the height of 700 ft. above the water, which, in the centre, is 174 ft. in depth. The only access to the island, is through the opening made by the sea, about 200 ft. wide. From the sloping sides of the basin issue several hot springs, of a temperature from 196 to boiling heat. The soil of the island is entirely volcanic ; its only vegetation moss and a few grasses, and its only inhabitants several species of aquatic birds. The surface, in various parts, contains swamps and pools of a temperature from 80 to 130. The sea around abounds with fish, and numberless seals resort to the coast. 2, A small isl. India, in Palk s Strait, off the N.W. extremity of Ceylon; about 5 m. long, and 2 broad; lat. 9 40 N. ; Ion. 80 E. 3, A small isl. Arctic Ocean, W. coast, Spitzbergen; lat. 7 9 30 N.; Ion. 10E. 4, Several places in the Dutch foreign possessions : A small isl. Indian Archipelago, N. coast, Java, out from the roads of Batavia ; inhabited only by a few fishermen. -A fort, isl. Amboina. A fort, isl. Celebes. A fort, Surinam ; lat. 5 48 N. ; Ion. 55 9 W. (R.) A fort, W. Indies, isl. Cui^oa ; lat. 12 6 18" N.; Ion. 68 54 W. (R.) ; near which is anchorage for large vessels. A fort, W. Indies, isl. St. Eustatius, near the town of Oranje. A fort, Upper Guinea, on the Gold Coast, E. part, kingdom of the Fantis. (Van der Aa.) AMSTERDAM (NEW), a tn. and port, British Guaiana, near the mouth of the Berbice river, along the E. bank of which it extends about 1 m. ; immediately above the junction of the Canje ; lat. 6 15 2" N.; Ion. 57 21 W. (R.) ; cap. of the colony of Berbice. It was begun in 1796, and is built in the Dutch style ; and intersected by numerous canals, which communicate with the sea. Each house, mostly of wood or bamboo, has an allotment of J ac., which contains a garden; and is completely separated from the neighbouring houses by a trench or ditch, filled and emptied with the tide ; which, preventing the accumulation of impurities, tends much to the preservation of the public health. The town has Eng lish, Scotch, and Dutch churches ; E. catholic and Wesleyan chapels; a free school, established in 1829; eight private schools, a courthouse, and barracks ; with many commodious wharfs and warehouses, and two commercial banks. The entrance to the river is defended by three strong batteries ; and the passage to the harbour is obstructed by a sand bar across its mouth, over which there is only 7 ft. water at low tides. Though intricate in its access, the harbour is good. Pop. about 3000. AMTSCHITKA, one of the most westerly of the Aleutian Islands (which see] ; lat. 51 43 N.; Ion. 178 45 E. (R.) AMUCHTA, or AMOUGHTA, one of the Aleutian Islands, Fox group ; lat. (centre) 52 33 N. ; Ion. 170 45 W. (R.) It contains an extinct volcano. AMULGAWEIN, a small tn. and harbour, Arabia, W. coast of the promontory of Maceta or Musendom, at the en trance into the Persian Gulf; lat. 25 35 N.; Ion. 55 42 E. The town was at one time a place of some importance, but is now deserted. About 2J m. N.E. from the town, is a large quadrangular tower, in ruins, surrounded with straggling date trees. AMWELL (GREAT), a par. England, co. Herts ; 2510 ac. ; 1J m. E. by S. Ware. Pop. in 1841, 1545. AMYUN, a tn. Syria, pash. of, and 10 m. S.S.E. from Tripoli ; lat. 34 20 N. ; Ion. 35 50 E. ANABARA, a river, Siberia, gov. Tobolsk ; it rises in about lat. 66 30 N.; Ion. 107 E., and falls into the Arctic Ocean, lat. 72 40 N. ; Ion. 112 30 E. The Anabara is joined, at its embouchure, by the Olen or 01 ia, which runs nearly parallel with it for between 200 and 300 m. The entire course of the former is about 400 m. ANACAPRI, a tn. Naples, isl. Capri, Gulf of Naples, dist. Castel a Mare, on the N. side of Mount Solaro, the higher of the two lofty masses of calcareous rock into which the island is divided, and standing nearly 2000 ft. above the level of the sea. The town can only be reached by a flight of 552 steps, cut into the living rock, called la scalinata. It contains a church and convent. In the neighbourhood are VOL. I. the remains of several ancient structures, some of them said to have been built by the Emperor Tiberius. It is affirmed that the inhabitants are so much attached to their beautiful place of residence, that many of them have never descended the steps that lead to it. Pop. 1458. ANACHUANA, a vil. and bay on the N. coast of the Isthmus of Panama ; lat. 6 41 N. ; Ion. 77 38 W. ANACLACIIE, a nevado or snowy peak of the Bolivian Andes, supposed to be upwards of 18,500 ft. high. It forms a rugged ridge, of considerable length, in the direction of the axis of the cordillera ; and is in lat. 18 12 S. ; Ion. 69 20 W. ANACLOAN, a par. Ireland, co. Down ; 6544 ac. Pop. in 1841, 3423. AN AD I A, a small tn. Brazil, prov. Alagoas, 45 m. E. the city of that name. It has a church, townhall, and prison ; and carries on an active trade in cotton, brought from the interior. Its inhabitants are chiefly employed in the cultivation of the necessaries of life, and of cotton, which is exchanged for European goods, &c. Pop. 1200. ANADIR, or ANADYR, a navigable river, Siberia, rising in Lake Ivashka ; runs W. and then E., traverses the country of the Tchuktchi tribe, and falls into the Gulf of Anadir, S. of Behring s Straits ; its whole course being about 540 m. ANADIR (GULF OF), N. Asia, S. of Behring s Straits; having Cape Tchukotski or Anadir Nos on the N., and Cape St. Thadeus on the S. Width, at the entrance, about 200 m. ; lat. 65 N. ; Ion. 177 E. The upper part of the gulf is called the Bay of St. Croix. ANADOLIA, or ANADOLI. See ANATOLIA. ANAGNI [Lat. Anagnia], a wretched small tn. Papal States, delegation of, and 12 m. N.W. from Frosinone; on a hill near Mount Cassin ; the birthplace of Boniface VIII., and the seat of a bishopric erected in 487, Pop. 5500. ANAGOUNDY, a tn. Hindoostan, Nizam territory, prov. Beejapoor, 1. bank, Toongabudra, a branch of the Kistna, 128 m. W.S.W. Kurnool; lat. 15 22 N.; Ion. 76 32 E.; opposite the fine ruins of Bisnagar or Vidyanagarah, once the capital of a large kingdom embracing a large portion of the Deccan. A ruined bridge still connects these towns. ANAH, a tn. Asiatic Turkey, pash. Bagdad, r. bank, Euphrates, 160 m. W.N.W. the city of Bagdad, on a fringe of soil between a low ridge of rock and the river. The site of the ancient city of Anatti is upon the opposite bank, a little below the present town. Situated in a district fertile in rice, corn, fruit, wine, and cotton, Anah forms a convenient resting place for the caravans which traverse the great desert of Meso potamia. It is, however, exposed to the desert winds, locally termed fatul (whirlwind), which blow with great violence. During the Euphrates expedition, in 1836-7, the ship Tigris was lost in one of these hurricanes. In 1807, Anah was sacked and burned by the Wahabites. The pop., chiefly a branch of the Ommiades or Beni-Ommaiyah, is estimated at 3000 or 4000. (Jour. Emj. Geo. Soc., vol. vii. ; &c.) ANAHILT, a par. Ireland, co. Down; 6777 ac. Pop. in 1841, 3551. ANAJAZ, a river, Brazil, isl. of Joannes or Marajo, be tween the mouths of the Rio Para and Amazon. It rises a little E. from Salgado, and, after a W. course of about 80 m., falls into the estuary of the Amazon, in lat. 52 S. ; Ion. 51 30 W. ANAKLIA, or ANAKRIA, a fortified tn. and port, Russia, in Mingrelia, E. coast of the Black Sea, 1. bank, Engura, and near its embouchure ; lat. 42 22 N. ; Ion. 41 28 E. It contains a custom house, and carries on some trade with Turkey. ANAK-SOONGI, a small state, W. coast, isl. Sumatra, between the rivers Manjoota and Urei. Its cap. is Moco-moco. ANALATIVOE, a small isl., W. of Jaffna, Ceylon, for merly known by the name Donna Clara, having belonged to a lady of that name in the time of the Portuguese. Its soil is sandy, but productive in palmyra trees, plantains, and cotton, the latter of which is largely cultivated. Pop. about 1000 ; formerly considerably more. (Ceylon Gas.) ANAM, or AX-NAM (EMPIRE OF), a country of S.E. Asia, occupying the E. portion of a great promontory N. E. the Malay Peninsula, from which it is separated by the Gulf of Siam, between lat. 9 40 and 23 22 N. ; and Ion. 102 and 109 30 E. It is 965 m. in length, N. to S. ; breadth irre gular, being, at the narrowest part, which is in the centre, only ANAM 138 ANAM about 85 m., expanding N. to upwards of 400 m., and S. to about 270 m. It comprises three distinct territories, and a part of a fourth. These are Tonquin, which occupies the whole N. part of the empire; Cochin China Proper, Champa, and the E. portion of Camboja, together occupying the centre and S. extremity. It is bounded, W. by Lao or Laos, and Siam ; N. by China, and on all other sides by the sea. The whole of the coast is considerably indented, especially at the mouths of the rivers, where it affords many safe and commodious harbours ; and the view which the country presents from the sea is that of a varied landscape, composed of bold headlands, picturesque valleys, well-cultivated slopes, extensive downs, and low plains, frequently terminating in sand hills, with a background of rather lofty mountains in the distance. Along the coast there are numerous groups of islands. TONQUIN is mountainous on the N., but in the E. is nearly level, terminating towards the sea in an alluvial plain. It is generally fertile, yielding good crops of rice, cotton, fruits, ginger, and spices, with a great variety of varnish trees, areca palms, &c. The principal river is the Song-ca, which flows from the interior in a S.E. direction, and falls into the Gulf of Tonquin by several outlets. It has numerous tributaries, and several branches are joined together by canals, both for irrigation and commerce. Its periodical overflowings fertil ize the rice fields within the reach of its waters. The other principal streams are the Koa-gok or Tonquin, and the Rok- bok, the former N. from the Song-ca, and the latter S. The climate resembles that of Bengal, but participates in the oppressive heat and very disagreeable cold of China. It is peculiarly subject also to typhoons, which sweep the land with inconceivable violence. The inhabitants of Tonquin are a short, squat, ill-favoured people, but extremely indus trious and good tempered. Those living on the coast are chiefly employed in fishing, and hunting the alligator, which is used as food, the flesh being sold in the shambles. It is by no means uncommon, says Dr. Gutzlaff, to see five or six of these monsters in the courtyard of a fisherman s hut, with their mouths gagged. The fishermen are a thrifty, hard working race ; and, though exposed to all sorts of hardships and sufferings, are always cheerful. Their customary diet is ; the refuse of the fish which they catch, with a little rice and j salt. Their females are ugly, and of filthy habits. Tonquin is the only part of the empire that is rich in metals, producing large quantities of gold, silver, copper, and iron. A great deal of gold is found also in the sands of the rivers, thousands of people being employed in collecting it. The principal town or capital is Kachao, on the r. bank of the Song-ca, about 100 m. N.W. from the Gulf of Tonquin. COCHIN CHINA PROPER, lying between lat. 12 and 18 30 N., and averaging about 90 m. in breadth, is bounded on the W. by a range of lofty barren mountains, hitherto unexplored by any European. The country is, for 10 m. inland, a com plete desert, and is generally sterile, but contains many fertile spots ; its sandy soil also bears productions peculiar to this region, including the eagle wood, which attains greater per fection here than anywhere else. In the more favoured dis tricts, grain, leguminous plants, and all the articles of susten ance used by man, are produced in great abundance, including sugar and cinnamon, the latter of superior quality. The coast is beautiful and grand, being indented with numerous bays, backed by mountains which rise to a height of several thousand feet, and are broken into innumerable valleys and ravines. There are a number of rivers, but none at all considerable. Cochin China is destitute of metals, so far as yet known. Its principal foreign trade is with the Chinese. The people of this territory are of small stature, not very dark, and of agile frame. The women are well formed, have fine eyes, and beautiful jet black hair. The dress of both sexes consists of trowsers and a coat, which reaches to the ankles with women, and with workmen to the knees. The men rarely shave or cut their hair. Their principal food is fish and rice; milk, butter, and cheese, they hold in abhorrence. They are cheerful, open, and kind hearted. Their dwellings consist ol mud or bamboo huts, with straw roofs, low, uncomfortable, and filthy. The cap. of the prov. is Hue, on the 1. bank ol a river called by the natives Phu-thua-thicn ; by foreigners, Hue or Sun-Hue". It is well fortified, but most of the houses are mean. In the neighbourhood, which is romantic am beautiful, there are several palaces, summer residences, and royal retreats. The pop. of the city, including the military, is estimated at 50,000. C AMDOJA, or KAMBODI A ; about one-half only of this territory s within the limits of the empire of Anam, the other portion being in Siam. The former is a continued flat of rich alluvial soil, full of navigable rivers, one of which, the Mekon (which see}, is amongst the largest in S. Asia. Agriculture is much jehind here; yet such is the fertility of the land, that Camboja s considered the granary of Cochin China. It produces vast quantities of rice, betel nuts, aniseed, and cardamoms, all 3steemed of the best quality. The areca palm, teak tree, and Carious dye and hard woods, also grow here ; some of the latter usceptible of a beautiful polish. Gamboge, and a variety of weet-smelling resins, are peculiar to this country. Sticklac, , substance used in dyeing red, is also amongst the products if Camboja. The mulberry tree is in some regions exten sively cultivated, to furnish food for the silkworm, the man- j agement of which is well understood by the natives. The 1 climate is in general temperate, excepting during the rainy season May and September when it is often very sultry. From October to January the weather is extremely boister- ms, and typhoons occasionally occur, but are neither so requent nor so violent as in Tonquin. The inhabitants of Camboja are below their neighbours, the Siamese, in point of sivilization ; their features are coarse, and their complexion dark. The men go half naked, and the women also dress very sparingly; they are moderate in their diet, and capable of nduring much fatigue, though inclined to indolence. They are patient under oppression, and have a slavish veneration :br their superiors. They are persevering agriculturists, but lave no manufacturing skill. The animals of this territory ire the buffalo, bullock, horse, both of the latter small ; the rhinoceros, elephant, a formidable species of tiger, the leopard, monkeys innumerable, and pigs. CHAMPA occupies the southern extremity of the empire. [t is extremely sterile, consisting, in great part, of sand hills, without any vegetation ; peaks, with stunted shrubs, granite formations of every description, and a reddish, disintegrated mass of stones. Its coast, however, abounds in excellent lavbours, and it yields, at least, one valuable production the eagle wood (Aloexylum Ayallochum) which is much esteemed all over Asia for its pungent fragrancy, and is, on this account, n constant use in burning incense to idols. N.W. of Champa, and between Cochin China and Camboja, is a bleak and wild nountainous tract, inhabited by the Moi, a savage race, who live chiefly on wild fruits and roots, and mostly sleep in trees; some, however, construct rude huts, and live in small com munities, but there are no large villages. They are a hardy and muscular race, and are on this account often captured by their neighbours, and sold as slaves. Geology. The geology of Anam presents little variety, its prevailing formations being primitive, and consisting mainly of granite or sienite, with the occasional occurrence of quartz, marble, limestone, and hornblende. As elsewhere mentioned, ron, gold, and silver, are found in considerable abundance in Tonquin, but in no other part of the empire. There, also, great masses of beautiful white marble, with blue streaks, are found. The singular mountain at Cape Varella, in Cochin China, one of whose peaks has the appearance of a huge broken and falling column, is supposed to contain some veins of silver; and at about half its height there is a thermal spring, of very high temperature. The alluvial soil of the country consists of clay, loam, or sand, which alternates or is mixed with gypsum and ferruginous matter ; and the sand, in many parts, accumulates extensively upon the coast, and forms large lagoons and dangerous shoals. Manufactures. The principal branches of industry prac tised by the natives, are spinning of cotton and silk, the weaving of these into coarse fabrics, the preparation of var nish, the manufacture of lacquered ware, the smelting of iron, the manufacture of firearms, and the construction of ships or junks. Commerce. The internal trade is conducted chiefly on the rivers of Tonquin and Camboja, along the sea coast, or by the lagoons skirting the latter, which form a kind of natural canals, and furnish a means of communication for about 200 m. Goods are conveyed in junks, which are well constructed and managed, and average 40 or 50 tons burden. The trade between Hue and Tonquin, as well as a great portion of the ANAM 139 ANAM foreign trade, is in the hands of the Chinese. The latter is chiefly with China, Siam, and the British settlements on the Straits of Malacca, from the ports of Kang-Kao and Saijun in Camboja, Kecho in Tonquin, and Ya-trang or Aha-trang, Phuyen, Quinhon, Faifo, and Hue, in Cochin China. The exports to China consist chiefly of cardamoms, areca nuts, cocoa-nut oil, sugar, fancy woods, eagle wood, ebony, cotton, silk, rice, sticklac, ivory, peltry, hides, horns, deers sinews, feathers, cinnamon, swallows nests, dried fish, varnish, gold and silver bullion; the imports wrought silk, tea, opium, cloth, porcelain, dried fruits, confectionery, and toys. Exports to British settlements rice, salt, sugar, and raw silk ; imports opium, gambier, catechu, iron, fire irons, woollens, and cottons. Exports to Siam gamboge, cardamoms, ivory, hides, horns, dried venison, salt fish, mats, and silk, raw and wrought; imports Chinese, European, and Indian goods, iron, wrought and unwrought; tobacco, and opium. The importation of opium, and the exportation of coin, bullion, copper, eagle wood, rice, salt, men, and women, are prohibited by law; but the prohibition is in most cases evaded by the dexterity of the Chinese merchants; and rice may be exported by special license. There remains every year for exportation more than 100,000 peculs (119,047 c\vt.) of rice, 83,333 cwt. of sugar, a great portion of which finds its way to the N. ports of China ; 71,428 cwt. of cotton, 4762 cwt. of cinnamon, 3571 cwt. of betel nuts, and 1190 cwt. cardamoms. There are, besides, large exportations of cocoa-nut oil, sticklac, gamboge, and eagle wood, the last of which is a royal monopoly. Fish, also, to the amount of about 21,666, 13s., are exported. Coins and Measures. The coin is made in imitation of the Chinese, but of baser metal. The gold and silver pieces are mostly of an oblong form, like Chinese ink, and bear the name of the reign in which they were cast ; the measures of length and capacity are nearly the same as in China. Government, Military. Although nominally patriarchal, the government of Anam is actually despotic, even the nobility deriving their name and power from the sovereign. There are two classes of mandarins civil and military divided into 10 orders, two of which compose the king s council. The general administration is conducted by that council as supreme, and six ministers of state, namely, the minister of ceremonies and religion, the keeper of the records, the minister of war, the treasurer, the minister of justice, and the minister of woods and forests. There are, besides, three superior officers called Kun, one being the viceroy of Ton quin ; another viceroy of Camboja ; and the third termed minister of elephants, acting both as prime minister and minister of foreign affairs. Each province is governed by a military mandarin, and two civil mandarins as deputy and sub-governor ; and is divided into three departments termed kuyen, each of which is subdivided into several districts named ton, and comprehends an indefinite number of villages. The system of jurisprudence is that of China, but not so well or so mildly administered as in that country. Every superior, whether natural or official, has the power of inflicting corporal punishment on his inferiors ; the most usual methods being with the bamboo and the canque or wooden collar. Fathers and mothers punish their children ; husbands their wives ; superior officers their inferior ; and these the soldiers. Capital punishment, besides being the penalty of higher offences, is inflicted for robbery, adultery, and sometimes for malversa tion and corruption. In military affairs, the Government claims the service of every male inhabitant from 18 to 60 years of age. The guards consist of 36,000 men, divided into 40 regiments, of 10 companies of 60 men each, classed in five brigades. There are, besides, 25 regiments, which, with the former, constitute the actual force of the empire. As the horses are indifferent, there are no cavalry, but 800 elephants are substituted, some being attached to every regi ment. The entire army consists of about 60,000 men ; but has occasionally amounted to more than double that number. The soldiers all wear uniforms a red tunic ; but the officers wear the ordinary dress. The former are well armed, and perform their manoeuvres with great regularity and precision. They are badly paid, receiving only about 2s. Id. a month. A lieutenant gets only double, and so on in proportion in the higher grades ; nowhere, however, above a bare subsistence. For the protection of the coast, marine regiments are formed, to act as sailors and soldiers on board the men-of-war. These consist of rowing boats, which sail with great rapidity, and are admirably worked with 40 to 100 oars. They have also galleys that sail and row, carrying from 4 to 16 cannon; vessels half junk and half ship, from 10 to 24 cannon ; and sloops of war according to our model. The discipline of the navy, as well as army, is according to European principles. The revenue is principally derived, as in China, from the land. There is also a poll tax of a little more than 2s. 2d. for each adult male subject not employed in the king s ser vice ; with sundry other contributions from the industry or consumption of the inhabitants. The land tax is partly paid iu kind, and the produce hoarded up in the granaries of the capital. Religion, Ceremonies, Language, Literature, &c. The mass of the people do not care for supernatural worship, and are subject to the most abject superstition. The doctrines of Buddha are professed by a few, but they have hardly either any temples or priests. Veneration for the departed dead is general, and the temples containing their tablets are the most sacred spots of worship. This reverence for the dead is mani fested by an interminable series of solemnities and observ ances, and a reckless expenditure. A remarkable instance of this propensity occurred on occasion of the death of the late king, Thieu Tri, who died on November 3, 1847. The funeral ceremonies on that occasion were of the most sump tuous description. When the body was deposited in the coffin, into which quantities of gold, silver, and other pre cious articles, together with provisions, had been previously placed, it was carried to a richly ornamented house, con structed expressly for the purpose, and there lay in state for seven months ; the coffin being hermetically closed to pre vent the exhalation of offensive smells. During this period, numerous sacrifices were made of bullocks, swine, and other animals, and the king s son came every day clothed in mourn ing to prostrate himself before the body of his father. Every day, also, wax candles were lighted, or incense burned. The road along which the body was conveyed to the river by which it was to pass to the place of interment, was covered with mats, carpets, and Indian tapestry of silk. The banks of the river, also, were adorned with silks, and lined with sol diers ; and, at frequent points of the progress, there were large altars, on which were burned wax tapers and perfumes. The bark in which the coffin was deposited was of the most magnificent description ; and, when the latter was placed in the tomb, large quantities of gold and silver, and other pre cious articles, were shut up along with it. After the inter ment, the royal barge, a splendid vessel, into which a number of valuables had been previously placed, was burnt ; as were also two superb palaces of wood, with rich furnishings, and in all things similar to the palace which the deceased monarch had inhabited. So solemn and slow was the progress of the funeral procession, and so encumbered was it with tedious ceremonial, that it was three days in reaching the place of interment, though only 9 m. distant from the city. The lan guage resembles the Chinese, from whom, as they have no national literature, they receive all their books. It is with out inflection, and shows a great mass of monosyllabic words. It is by no means mellifluous, and is spoken with extraor dinary rapidity by the natives. In writing, they use the Chinese character ; with considerable difference, however, in some of their combinations. A complete dictionary of the Anamitic language was composed by the Bishop of Adran, with explanations in French. Marriage is a matter of traffic ; the price of a wife being usually from 8, 13s. to 10, 16s. ; but sometimes, among the lower classes, 2, 3s. to 4, 6s. ; and among the higher, 21, 12s. to 43, 4s. Among the former, the usual age for marriage is, with males, 20, or some times 30 ; and with females, 17 to 20 ; but the rich often marry as early as 15. Polygamy is allowed, but the first espoused is considered the wife. Although adultery is pun ishable with death, and marriages are indissoluble except by mutual consent, breaches of chastity or conjugal fidelity are not considered as crimes ; and both before arid after marriage, women have more liberty than in other E. countries. They are, however, in many respects, the mere drudges of man ; performing all kinds of household and outdoor work, and acting as shopkeepers, brokers, &c., and are generally treated with rigour and neglect. Men are, in a great measure, sup ported by female labour ; and such is the anomalous state of AN AMI 1 . AS 110 ANATOLIA the marriage relation, that women are said to prefer strangers, especially Chinese, as husbands. History. According to the historical records of China the only sources of information on the subject, Anam was con quered and colonized by the Chinese, B.C. 214. After a series of revolts against their conquerors, the Cochin Chinese, in A.D. 263, regained their independence, but remained tribu- taries to China. In 1280, the Tartar Khans of the latter in effectually attempted again to possess themselves of the Cochin Chinese territory. In 1406, the Chinese occupied Tonquin, but abandoned it in 1428 ; and in 1471, the Touquinese made the conquest of Cochin China. In 1540, Tonquin became a tributary lordship of the celestial empire; and in 1553, Cochin China threw off the yoke of the former, and again became independent. From that time till 1748, Tonquin was nomi nally under a sovereign of its own, termed a Dava or JBoua, but was actually ruled by the Choua or prime minister. In 1748, the sovereign recovered his authority, but a period of anarchy succeeded, and was terminated only by an insurrec tion which broke out in 1774, and completely revolutionized the kingdom. The great agents in this revolution were three brothers called Taysons [western mountaineers], of the pro vince of Qui-nhor, who, having been driven to a robber s life by the oppression of the Government officials, and having soon collected numerous adherents in a country already ripe for revolt, defeated the armies both of Anam and of China, put to death their king and his eldest son, and made themselves masters of the whole country, with exception of some of the S. provinces. Gia-long, the king s second son, placed himself under the protection and guidance of Pigneaux de Behaim, Bishop of Adran, a French Franciscan missionary, at that time stationed in the country. In 1781, he attempted to regain possession of the throne, but being defeated by his rebel countrymen, and deceived by the King of Siam, he took refuge in the island of Quadrol ; and in 1787, sent his son to France along with Pigneaux, to ask the assistance of Louis XVI. The latter sent over some French officers, whose experience enabled the king to organize an army, construct forts, and finally reinstate himself in all his dominions. The succession to the throne was lately disputed by two rival claimants, but was settled in 1842 by the instalment of the rightful heir. The population of Anam is supposed to be between 12,000,000 and 15,000,000. (Crawford s Embassy to Siam and Cochin China; Hamilton s East India Gaz. ; Guibert, Diet. Geo. et Stat. Dr. Gutzlaff in Jour. Roy. Geo. Soc., vol. xix. ; Jour. Ind. ArcMp.) ANAMBAS, a group of 15 islands, China Sea, off the E. coast of the Malay peninsula, and belonging to the kingdom of Johore. They lie between lat. 2 30 and 3 30 N. ; Ion. 104 and 110 E., and are usually divided into N., Middle, and S. Anambus, names unknown to the Malays, who call them Siantan, Jumjah, Sarasan, &c. Sarasan is that which lies nearest Borneo, in lat. 2 30 N., and is sometimes called S. Natuna. The largest island is Domar, in the middle group, lat. 2 44 N.; Ion. 105 20 E. (u.) All the islands are hilly, and appear sterile. They are inhabited by pure and poor Malays, who support themselves by the cultivation of rice, maize, sago, and cocoa nuts, and fishing trepang. The larger islands abound with tropical fruits and vegetables. The natives are said to be treacherous. Pop. about 1500. (Hitter s Erdkundc ; Horsburgh s East India Directory.} ANAMIBAPUCU, a river, Brazil, prov. Para. It is formed by the junction of the rivers Wahoui and Amana; the latter having its sources in the mountains forming the S. boundary of French Guaiana, the former in the serra Velha. The junction of these streams takes place in lat. 1 ^ N. ; Ion. 53 18 W., from which point the Anamirapucu flows in a S.E. direction, and falls into the estuary of the Amazon, in lat. 15 S. ; Ion. 50 55 W. Its whole course is about 200 m. ANAMOOE, or ANAMODR (CAPE), the most S. point, Anatolia, coast ot Karamania, opposite Cyprus; lat. 36 () 48" the Black Sea ; lat. 44 54 6" N. ; Ion. 37 18 30" E. (u.) being on one side quite inaccessible, while the other is forti fied by a castle and outworks, extending from the summit of the cape to the level of the sea. Near it are the remains of a town, supposed to be the ancient Anemurium, remarkable for the number of its dilapidated tombs. The modern castle of Anamoor, the residence of a Turkish Aga, is on a small rocky eminence, close to the sea, about 5 or 6 m. E. of the cape. ANAPA, a seaport and fortified tn. Russian Circassia, on the Black Sea ; lat. 44 54 1" N. ; Ion. 37 18 5" E. (R.) The port is tolerably good for small vessels, but the outer road is unsheltered, and is safely accessible only in the fine season. The fort was constructed in 1784 by the Turks, when the Russians took possession of the Crimea and island of Tainan. In 1 791, the Russians carried it by storm. It was afterwards restored to the Turks, who strengthened the fortifi cations. By a subsequent treaty the Russians again acquired possession of it, and have retained it till now (1850). The exports are grain, tallow, hides, honey, and wax. The inhabitants, Circassians, Tartars, Greeks, Turks, Jews, Arme nians, Russians, &c. ; and the pop., exclusive of the garrison, about 3000. ANAPHI, or NAOPHIO, an isl. Grecian Archipelago ; lat. 36 23 N. ; Ion. 25 47 E. (it.) It is about 7 m. long, and from 1 to 2 broad. It is composed chiefly of rocky barren mountains, and it has no port. There are some level tracts, but they are far from being fertile, a little wheat and oil being their sole productions. Wax and honey are, however, obtained in con siderable quantities. Partridges abound, and it has some springs of excellent water. The inhabitants, who are miser ably poor, amount to about 1500, the greater part of whom reside in a village on the S. coast. A few miles S. of Ana- phi is the island of Anaphi Poulo, surrounded by a group of barren rocks. ANAPLI, correctly NAUPLIA (wJiich see). ANARAJAPURA, ANARAJAPOORA, or ANOORAADHA- PURA. See ANURADHAPURA. ANASTASIA. 1, An isl., U. States, E. coast, Florida ; lat. (light, N. point) 29 52 N. ; Ion. 81 25 W. (u.) It is about 18 m. long, by 1 m. broad. 2, ANASTASIA (SANTA), a vil. Naples, dist. of, and 6 m. E. from Naples. Pop. 6451. ANATOLIA, or ANADOLIA, a pash. Turkey in Asia, forming the W. portion of the peninsula called Anatolia or Asia Minor. Like other Turkish pashalics, its extent is in definite ; varying with the caprice of the sultan, or the energy and cupidity of the governing pasha. Generally speaking, it may be described as comprehending the tract from the Black Sea to the Mediterranean, bounded, W. by the Grecian Archi pelago, and E. by an irregular sinuous line drawn from the Black Sea, about Ion. 35 E., to the Mediterranean, about Ion. 31 30 E. It thus extends over about a half of Anatolia or Asia Minor ; in the description of which the physical feat ures, products, &c., of the pashalic are included (see the fol- loiving article). It is the largest and richest province in the empire, and the most populous in Asia. Its valleys are fertile, but ill cultivated; its mountains produce excellent timber, in large quantities ; and its climate, in the low countries, is mild and genial. The capital is Kutaya. Anatolia compre hends the old provinces of Bithynia, Paphlagonia, Galatia, Phrygia Epictetes, Mysia, Phrygia Minor, Aeolis, Lydia, Ionia, Lycia, Caria, Peraca, and parts of Phrygia Major and Pisidia. ANATOLIA, ANADOLIA, or NATOLIA [Greek, AvaToA>5 the East, or Levant], the peninsular-shaped \V. extremity of Asia, identical with Asia Minor an inappropriate term, of un certain, but comparatively modern date, and unknown both to the Greeks and Romans. It comprehends the Turkish pashalics of Anatolia, Itshili, Karamania, Marash, Sivas or Room, and Trebizond. Anatolia is included between the 36th and 42d N. parallels, and between the 26th and 41st E. meridians; being bounded, N. by the Black Sea, Sea of Marmora, and the Dar danelles; W. by the Grecian Archipelago; and S. by the Medi terranean Sea; while its E. boundary, which is more arbitrary, is usually defined by a line connecting the Alma-dagh, near the Bay of Iskenderoon, with the Euphrates, and thence up to its source, whence it runs down the Tchorak to the Black Sea. Its greatest length, from the Gulf of Adramyti E. to the Eu phrates, somewhat exceeds 700 m. ; and its greatest breadth, from C. Anamoor, in Karamania, to C. Kerempe, in Anatolia, is about 420 m. ; supposed area, about 270,000 sq. m. The N. coast, facing the Black Sea, which presents few striking irregularities, is bold and steep, with very deep water close to the shore eastward, but gradually falls as it approaches the Bosphorus. The W. coast, from the Bosphorus downwards, presents an outline as jagged and irregular, with cliffs nearly as high and precipitous, as almost any coast in the world ; in cluding the Gulfs of Adramyti, Fouges, Smyrna, Scala-nuova, ANATOLIA ANATOLIA Mandelyah, and Kos, within which, however, there are low alluvial shores. While the S. coast presents a bold irregular outline, with steep and lofty rocks closely approaching the shore ; its chief bays or indentations being the Gulfs of Makri, Phineka, Adalia, and Iskenderoon. The principal headlands N. are Capes Indjeh and Kerempc; W., Capes Baba, Kara- bournou, St. Mary, Arbora, Arkyalla, and Cris ; and 8., Capes Aleppo, Ghinazi, Seven-capes, Toogh-bournou, Khelidonia, Anamoor, Cavaliere, and Karatash. Mountain Chains and Plateaux. Flic surface of Anatolia, which is extremely irregular, may be termed an elevated plateau, supporting still higher elevations, dotted with salt lakes, and enclosed by two ranges or offshoots of the Armenian mountain system, the Taurus and Anti-Taurus, running E. and W., not far from the shores of the Levant and Black Sea, respectively. The S. range, or Taurus, commences close to the Euphrates, about lat. 38 N. ; Ion. 39 E., where Akjah- dagh reaches an elevation of about 10,000 ft., and running W., with a very irregular course through Karamania and the S. part of the pashalic of Anatolia, generally speaking, par allel to the Levant, terminates in the islands of the Grecian Archipelago. It has numerous offsets both N. and S., which, as well as various portions of the main range, are known by special names, as Allah-dagh, Bulghar-dagh, Jebel kurin, &c. &c. The N . or Anti-Taurus range stretches from the Tchorak W., parallel to the Black Sea, and at no great distance from its shores, and terminates at the Bosphorus, an offset tending S.W., comprising Mount Olympus (8800 ft.), and terminating in Mount Ida (5400 ft.) at the Gulf of Adramyti. Between these two main ranges there are many smaller ones, some of which attain a great elevation ; and, indeed everywhere, lofty mountain masses, more or less connected, are to be met with. Of the loftier summits may be named the volcanic peak of Erjisch-dagh (13,000 ft.), the highest in Anatolia, situated about 13 m. S. Kaisarieh or Kasaria; besides which there are various others attaining an elevation of 7000 to 10,000 ft. The centre of this peninsula is an extensive plateau, inde pendently of the mountains on it, averaging about 5000 ft. in height, about 250 m. in length from N.E. to S.W., and about 100 m. in breadth; partly drained by the rivers flowing into the Black Sea, but covered also with salt lakes, marshes, and rivers having no visible outlet. Lakes and Rivers. The great number of salt and fresh water lakes is the most remarkable feature in the geo graphy of Anatolia. The largest of these is the Touz-Ghieul [anc. Tatta-palus\, about 70 m. N.E. Konieh, and, accord ing to Hamilton, about 55 m. long, and from 9 to 15 m. in breadth; it is shallow, and much reduced in summer by evaporations. Its waters are briny, and the incrustations on its shores supply the surrounding districts with salt. The other principal lakes are, the Kara-hissar, Ak Shehr, Egerdir, Bey-Shehr, Soghla, Chardak, and Buldur, all between 37-39 N. lat. ; and 30-35 E. Ion. Besides these, there are the Lakes Manyas and Abulliontc, near the shores of the Sea of Marmora, and a few others of smaller extent. The largest rivers of Anatolia flow into the Black Sea ; but their courses have been very imperfectly explored. The largest is the Kizil-Irmak [auc. Halys] , which is supposed to rise about 40 m. E.N.E. Siwan, and, after a most tortuous course, first W. and then N.E., entering the Black Sea, at lat. 41 48 N.; Ion. 36 E. ; total length at least 600 m. E. is the Jeshil-irmak [anc. Iris] , a much smaller river, flowing W.N. W., and entering the sea about 18 m. E. Samsoom. In the N.W. of Anatolia is the Sakaria [anc. Sangarius], rising in the table land, not far from Angora, flowing W. as far as Shughut, and thence N. into the Black Sea, which it enters, after a supposed course of about 300 m., about 80 m. E. the Bosphorus. The only important rivers flowing towards the Grecian Archipelago, are the Bakir-chai [anc. Caicus] ; the Gedis-chai [anc. Hermus], once a famed auriferous stream, flowing into the Gulf of Smyrna, after a course, W. by S., of about 200 m.; and the Bojuk Mender-chai [anc. Mceandcr], after a most tortuous course, S.W. by W., of more than 300 m., joining the sea close to the ruins of the once famous Miletus. On the S., facing the Levant, and proceeding E., are the Doloman-chai [anc. Calbis], Kodja-chai [anc. Xanthus], Ak-Sfi, Kopru-Su [anc. Eurymedon], the Ghiik-Su [anc. Cali/cadnus], the Tersus- chai [anc. Cydnits], but now a mere torrent, the Sihoon-chai [aue. /faros], and the Jyhoon-chai [anc. 1 yramus] ; though none of them are of any considerable size, except the last two, which have a length, respectively, of 260 and 180 m. Geology, Minerals, etc. It may be said, generally, that granite, serpentine, and schist form the substance of the upper, and limestone of the lower, regions of Anatolia; trachy- tic rocks being also found E., which are succeeded \V., and partly overlaid by black volcanic breccia, interspersed with angular blocks of trachyte ; while the extreme W. part of the peninsula, and its S. coasts, consist almost wholly of calcareous rocks belonging to the chalk formation. The most curious feature, however, in the geology of this country, is the vol canic region of Catacecaumene \KarKx,txa.vfjt,iiiri burnt up], between lat. 38-38 40 N.; and Ion. 28 U 3U -29 10 E.; which is thus described by Mr. Hamilton : West of us, a black dome-shaped hill of scoriae and ashes, the Karadevlit or "black inkstand," the volcano of Koula, rose about 500 ft. above the plain, and was so steep, that to ascend its slope of cinders seemed wholly impossible. In front, a black and rugged stream of lava extended from right to left ; the surface of which, broken up into a thousand forms, looked like the breakers of a sea converted into stone amid the fury of a gale, and forming, as it issued from the base of the cone, a striking contrast with the rich plain through which it seemed to flow. (Researches in Asia Minor, vol. i. p. 136.) These volcanic cones, and other unquestionable traces of igneous action, extend over a considerable space ; and earthquakes still occasionally occur, such as those that destroyed Laodicea, Apamea Cibotus, Sardis, and other cities of antiquity. Anatolia contains also numerous thermal and sulphurous springs ; those near Erekli, in lat. 37 40 N., and Ion. 34 5 E., are found in a low ridge of calcareous hills, on the summit of which are narrow cracks or fissures, whence the springs issue. In many places, little conical hills have been raised by the gradual deposit of the earthy matter held in suspension by the water, but speedily solidified by evaporation. The expansive power of the con fined water and gases is indicated by its bubbling underground, where there is any obstruction to its escape. Some of these springs deposit pure salt round their orifices, others pure sul phur, and others sulphate of lime or gypsum. There is also much difference in the heat of the springs, some being quite cool, and others nearly 160 (Hamilton s Researches, vol. ii. p. 308). Mining is not carried on to any great extent. Copper mines, however, are wrought at Bakir-Kurehsi, Tireboli, Tokat, and a few other places. Iron and rock alum are wrought near Unieh ; and lead, with silver, at Denek, a little E. of the Kizil-Irmak. Nitre is got at Karabunar, about 60 m. E. Konieh ; and rock salt, everywhere plentiful, is especially so in the tract near Angora. MaVble exists in great abund ance ; an advantage which the sculptors and builders among the early Greek colonists turned largely to account. Coal also has been found lately along the coast of the Black Sea ; but has not hitherto been worked to advantage, owing, in part, to the unskilfulness of the Turkish miners. Climate. The climate of Anatolia, so much lauded by the ancients, admits of no general description, owing to the diversity in the elevations of its surface, which presents winter and summer within one day s journey. The W. shores have been celebrated in all ages for their genial warmth ; the thermometer in summer ranges from 84 to 100 Fah. ; rain falls but rarely; but this defect is in some measure supplied by heavy dews. The coast facing the Black Sea is almost equally favoured as to temperature, and enjoys the additional advantage of frequent rains. The elevated plains of the interior, which rise about 3000 ft. above the sea, exclusively of mountains towering some thousand feet yet higher, are extremely cold in winter, but salubrious. Summer here is of short duration, and the snow lies pretty deep for about four months in the year. The climate of Karamania, unlike that of the N. part, is oppressively hot in summer; very little rain falls ; and hence, from April to November, the inhabitants have little water, except what is preserved in tanks and cisterns. The cold, in the passes of the Taurus, is intense. Vegetable Productions. The N. slope of the central plateau so abounds with forests of oaks, beeches, planes, ashes, and almost all other building timber, that the Turks have called one of its forests the Agatch-Degnis or Sea of trees. It is 120 m. long, by 40 m. in breadth, and is the chief, and all but inexhaustible source of supply to the Turkish navy. The trees here are of larger growth than in most other countries ANATOLIA 142 ANATOLIA under the same parallel, especially in the sheltered valleys of the S.AV. On the coast there are entire woods of walnut, quince, mulberry, pomegranate, peach, apricot, plum, and cherry trees, especially the last, to the celebrity of which the ancient Cerasus, now Keresoun, owed its name. The plains bordering the Kizil-Innak, Sakaria, and Mendere, afford excellent pasture. The burning coasts of Karamania have a similar vegetation with the coast of Syria; and rich gums exude from the trees, among which is the styrax, yielding the storax. The Taurus mountains comprise numerous kinds of forest trees, including a great variety of pines, amongst which is the stone pine. Thousands of fine trees, of the pine tribe, are annually destroyed by having fire applied to them, to quicken the flow of turpentine. In the more elevated districts, pine splints have been long used in lieu of lamps and candles. Sugar canes grow in Pamphylia, but do not ripen to crystallization, a portion of them being used as a vegetable, and the pith as a sweetener; and wine, olives, and figs, are abundantly raised in the S. valleys, especially through out Lycia, which plentifully supplies the markets of Smyrna with figs, olives, and raisins. The poppy also is grown in very large quantities, with a view to the opium trade, which, however, is strictly a government sinecure : the preparation of the opium requires great care, and is chiefly conducted by females. The flora of W. and S. Anatolia, in all the valleys, is extremely beautiful, and will bear comparison \\ ith that of Sicily and S Spain. Shrubs and evergreens are abundant ; the latter, including the myrtle which here attains an im mense size bay, daphne, laurel, and a variety of holly. In strong contrast with all these countries, are the vast and frigid plains of the interior, which produce only stunted shrubs, saline plants, wormwood, sage, and some of the ferns. There are other tracts, the only vegetation on which is two species of broom. The wheat of Anatolia is of the bearded kind. Oats are seldom seen ; the grain supplied to horses and other animals is usually barley. Maize is raised to some extent. Animals. Anatolia has few large beasts of prey, except a species of panther, called kaplan by the Turks. Jackals are very common in the less frequented regions; and there are a few bears, wolves, and wild hogs. Buffaloes are used for draught, especially in tillage; and the female supplies the place of the cow, which is scarce, in furnishing milk. The horses are strong and well shaped, and the asses fleeter and larger than usual; but in the transport trade of this, as of other Eastern countries, the camel is mostly employed. The long-haired or shawl goat was once peculiar to this country; but it has travelled east, and is known equally in Persia and Upper India. The sheep are usually of the broad-tailed species. Among the more common birds are the eagle, hawk, hooded crow, bustard, stork, and heron, quail, partridge, and others known to Europeans. Land tortoises, lizards, frogs (including the Sana arborea or tree frog), are more or less common in various parts; and leeches are so plentiful, that they form an important article of the export trade to France and Italy, through Smyrna. The coast abounds with many varieties of fish, especially the cuttle fish. Butterflies of innumerable varieties, and of uncommon and very gaudy colours, are to be seen in great numbers. Etlinography, <f-c. The Ottoman Turks, who form about nine-tenths of the population, are not only the original branch of the Turkish family, but also the largest and most civilized ; nor have they, for many centuries, varied to any considerable extent from their primitive type. There are many thousands, however, of so-called Turks, who are not so really, but descended from Greek ancestors. About one- twentieth part are Greeks, an unprincipled, dishonest race; and the remainder comprise Jews, Armenians, Kurds, and some few Zingari or Gypsies, the last of whom are itinerant jobbers and tinkers, as in many countries of Europe. The total population cannot be exactly ascertained, but it has been estimated to be about 4,500,000. The true Ottoman Turks are settled mostly in the country, and devote themselves to agriculture, many leaving their houses during summer, and leading a nomadic life in tents. The Kurds, also, and the Yiirukhs, lead an almost wholly pastoral life, and are found, for the most part, in the hilly districts. Polygamy is rare, and the women commonly spend their time in spinning wool, and working it and cnniel s hair into carpets, shawls, &c. In the rural districts they throw off the veil, which is alway worn in towns. The Anatolian Turks are personally hand some, well-mannered, and scrupulously cleanly; the latter liabit being induced, perhaps, by their religious practices. As respects character, all allow them the virtues of hospitality and generosity; and Sir C. Fellows gives them additional credit for downright honesty, singleness of heart, and con tentment of disposition. But the vices of avarice and artful ness, with which they are almost universally charged, would seein hardly compatible with these virtues. Their careless ness, too, has become proverbial. Unlike the Turks of other countries, however, they are a social people, fond of gossiping, dancing, and singing, with less of religious prejudice than prevails in European Turkey. Agriculture, as a practical art, is wholly unknown. Irri gation, manuring, and cropping, are little practised; and all the implements of husbandry are in the most rude and primi tive state. Notwithstanding these drawbacks, however, nature has been so bountiful to the lower lands in Asia Minor, that, th exception of the cereal products, its agricultural re turns may vie with those of Greece and European Turkey. Grazing forms a staple employment, and large flocks of sheep d goats are to be found on the lofty plains of the interior, whose wool and hair form an important article of commerce between Smyrna and Angora. Manufactures and Trade. The principal industry of Ana tolia consists in growing wine and oil, and in weaving car pets, shawls, and making fez caps, &c. The trade will be best discussed in the articles SMYRNA and TKEBIZOND. Roads and Caravan Routes. Asia Minor was so well known to the Romans, that it was traversed by them in almost every direction. Of these roads, however, by far the it important were the two that led into Syria: 1, By Ancyra (Angora] and Tarsus to Antioch; and, 2, That through Casarea Mazaca to Comana of Cappadocia, and Sam- osata to Zeugma on the Euphrates. There was a well-fre quented road, likewise, by Nicomedia (Ismid), and past Boli to Sinope, Trebizond, and Sivas, to Bagdad ; and another led S., near the shore of the Propontis, and across the Troad to Smyrna, Ephesus, &c. In all these lines there are ruins, bridges, &c., clearly marking their former existence and con sequence. As respects the present time, roads, as understood in Europe, are wholly unknown; but relays of horses are maintained, as in the days of Xerxes, at distant intervals, and are stationed at the large towns of the leading routes. The most frequented road is that from Smyrna to Constantinople which passes by way of Magnesia, Ak-hissar [anc. Thyatird] and Moukalitsch; another goes by Mudanieh, Brusa, the Olympus range, Kutaya, Afium-Kara-Hissar, Konieh, Kar- aman, and Gulnar ; and a third route, proceeding in the same direction from the Bosphorus, takes at Eski-Sher a direction exactly due E. to Angora, and thence to Ooscat and Kaisarieh. Besides the above routes, a pilgrim road leads from Constan tinople S.E. through the peninsula; and there are two principal caravan routes one through Ala-Shehr, Afium-Kara-Hissar, and Konieh; the other by the Ak-dagh or White Mountains to Adalia, and the other S. provinces. The principal cities of Anatolia are Smyrna, Trebizond, Iskenderoon, Adramyti, Angora, Sivas, Sinope, Samsoom, Konieh, Kaisarieh, and Afium-Kara-Hissar. Anatolia or Asia Minor was the seat of The Seven churches which are in Asia Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamos, Thyatira, Sardis, Philadelphia, and Laodicea. These were all places of great note in apostolic times, though only some of them are so now, and that only in a modified sense: 1, Ephesus was long the metropolitan see of Asia; its ruins lie two short days journey S.E. Smyrna, and still include some magnificent Grecian and Roman remains. 2, Smyrna, a city of Ionia, is situated upon the shore of the ^gean Sea, at the mouth of the Meles, 38 m. N. Ephesus. The modern city, called Izmir by the Turks, contains scarcely any traces of the ancient. 3, Pergamos was an important city of the Greater Mysia, on the river Caicus, about 20 in. from the sea. The modern Bergamo is built on or near the site of Pergamos; it is a large place, and has some antique remains. 4, Thyatira is completely obliterated, though many architectural frag ments are strewn arouud. The modern Turkish town of Ak- hissar, built on or near its site, is a large place. 5, Sardis was the once flourishing capital of ancient Lydia, situated at the foot of Mount Tmolus, in a fertile plain, watered by the ANATOLICO ANCONA golden-sanded Pactolus; it is now a heap of ruins. A miser able Turkish village, called Sart, partially preserves in its name, and entirely in its walls, relics of the splendour of ancient Sardis. 6, Philadelphia stood about 25 m. S.E. Sardis, in the valley formed by the Kodus. Hard by its site is the Turkish Ala-Shelir. 7, Laodicea was the capital of the Greater Phrygia ; its site, now deserted, was near the rivers Lycus, Asopus, and Caprus, tributaries of the Maeander. No trace of it remains. (Leake s Asia Minor; Sir C. Fellow s Researches in 1 838-40 ; Ainsworth s Papers in Jour. Stat. Soc., London; Dictionnaire des dates; Hommaire de Hell s Survey of the Black Sea; Beaufort s Survey of the S. W. Coasts; Hamil ton s Researches in Asia Minor.) ANATOLICO, a tn. Greece, in ^Etolia, Bay of Anatolico, off the Gulf of Patras, 8 m. N.W. Mesolonghi; lat. 38 24 N. ; Ion. 21 18 E. ; built on piles on a low island. The sur rounding water of the bay, or rather lagoon, is extremely shallow, rarely exceeding 3 or 4 ft. in depth. ANAVA, or GUANAHAU, a river, Brazil, Portuguese Guaiana, a tributary of the Branco or Parima. It rises in the serra Aricua or Acary, the S.W. boundary of British Guaiana, about lat. 2 N. ; Ion. 59 20 W. ; whence it flows W.S.W., till it falls into the Branco at lat. 50 N. ; Ion. 61 50 W. Its whole length is about 200 m. ANAVELHANA, a river, Brazil, Portuguese Guaiana, an affluent of the Rio Negro. It rises in about lat. 10 N. ; Ion. 59 50 W., flows nearly due S., and falls into that river near Toroma ; lat. 3 S. ; Ion. 60 15 W. The length of its course is about 220 m. ANAZO, a considerable river, Abyssinia, formed by the junction of the Melee and the united streams of Ancona and Sabalatte. The junc tion occurs in about lat. 12 N. ; Ion. 40 55 E. ; from which point the Anazo flows nearly due E., taking the name of the Yasso, latterly, till it comes within 10 m. of the Sea of Bab- el-Mandeb, when it sinks into the sand. ^ ANCA, a tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Douro, dist. of, and about 8 m. from Coimbra. It possesses a spring remarkable for its copiousness ; and valuable quarries of a fine stone, partly pure white, and partly bluish, which admits of being sawed, and has, for a long period, been exten sively exported. Pop. 1626. ANCASTER, a par. England, co. Lincoln ; area, 2800 ac. ; 6 m. N.E. Grantham. Pop. in 1841, 530. ANCENIS [anc. Andenesium], a tn. France, dep. Loire Inferieure, r. bank, Loire, here spanned by an elegant sus pension bridge, 20 m. N.E. Nantes, cap. can. and arrond. of same name. It stands on a flat, subject to the inundations of the Loire, surrounded by vine-clad hills, and overlooked by a gothic castle, which commands the river. Principal build ings : its handsome college and the barracks, formed out of a convent of Ursuline nuns. Manufactures : Salt of tartar. Its port, which, in the 15th and 16th century, is said to have been reached by the tide, and to have had depth of water sufficient to allow ships of war to be built at it, is now chiefly used as an entrepot and station for the boats plying on the river. Its trade is in corn, wine, vinegar, coal, iron, timber, and cattle. During the revolutionary war in La Vendde, Ancenis was the theatre of some severe and exterminating contests. Pop. 3296. The arrond. is divided into 5 cans, and 27 corns. Pop. 47,397. ANCERVILLE. 1, A small tn. France, dep. Meuse, 12m. S.W. Bar-le-Duc. The chief trade is in Kirsch-wasser, a spirit distilled from cherries, of which a considerable quan tity is made here. Pop. 2208. 2, A vil., dep. Moselle, 12 m. from Metz. Manufactures : Haircloth. Pop. 566. ANCHOLME (!SLE OF). See LINCOLNSHIRE. ANCHOR ISLAND. 1, A small isl. New Zealand, N. side of the entrance into Dusky Bay, S.W. extremity of New Munster ; lat. 45 46 S. ; Ion. 166 12 E. 2, Two islands off the E. coast of Brazil, prov. Rio Janeiro, 3 m. E. Cape Frio. ANCHORITES, a group of small islands, S. Pacific Ocean, about 280 m. N. New Guinea. The centre isl. is in lat. 50 S. ; Ion. 145 50 E. ANCIAENS, a tn. Portugal, prov. Tras-os-Montes, 73 m. E.N.E. Oporto de Moncorvo. It is walled, and has a castle, and sulphurous mineral waters. Pop. 1900. ANCIAO, a small tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Douro, dist. of, and 13 m. S.S.E. from Coimbra, on a hill near the river of the same name. Pop. 1240. ANCOLAN ISLANDS, a group of small islands in the N. Pacific Ocean, off the N.W. coast of the S. end of Suzon, one of the Philippine Islands. They lie close together about 12 m. from the shore, in about lat. 14 20 N. ; Ion. 123 20 E. ANCONA, one of the most important maritime cities of the Papal States, or, the Adriatic, 1 32 m. N.E. Rome ; lat. 43 37 42" N. ; Ion. 13 30 30" E. (R.) ; cap. delegation of same name ; built on the slope of a hill, in the form of an amphi theatre, between two hills, on one of which stands the citadel, and on the other the cathedral. It is divided into two parts the Citta Vecchia, and the Citta Nuova ; the former occupies the higher ground, and is inhabited by the poorer classes ; the latter is situated along the shores of the gulf. The streets, with one exception, are narrow, dirty, and irregular. Ancona is the seat of a civil tribunal, of a tribunal of primary juris diction, of a court of appeal, and of a bishop, and is governed ANCONA, FROM THK 1JRF.AK WATER After Th. <lu Monrel. by a delegate who is a prelate of the Roman church. It has a college, two hospitals, 10 churches, 16 convents, and a lazaretto. Among the most remarkable buildings are the government palace, the townhouse, the merchant s hall, the cathedral, built on the site of an ancient temple of Venus ; the exchange, a stately building in the Gothic style ; and, on the mole, the triumphal Corinthian arch of Trajan, built of Parian marble. In 1732, Ancona was declared a free port, and, with exception of Venice, it has a larger trade than any other port on the same coast. In 1843, its exports, consist ing of wool, skins, silk, sail cloth, tow, grain, alum, sulphur, fruit, and Venetian soap, amounted to 428.219. The im ports of the same year amounted to 1,020,770, consisting of manufactured goods, hardware, porcelain, stoneware, glass, yarn, cloths, tobacco, wax, spirituous liquors, timber, coals, metal goods, hides, leather, meal, and biscuits. Of these, imports to the value of 271,473 were from Britain ; and of the exports 28,666, mostly oak for shipbuilding. The number of vessels that sailed from Ancona, in 1843, was 1249; tonn., 84,750 ; the number that arrived, 1234; tonn., 82,783. In 1846, the number of vessels that arrived at Ancona was 1455 ; tonn., 103,970 ; value of total imports, 980,585 ; exports, 447,608. Of the imports, 355,306 were from Britain, and 381,806 from Austria. Of the ex ports, 92,162 were to Britain, and 116,941 to Austria. Considerable quantities of British manufactures, which com pose about one-half of the imports from this country, find their way into Austria through Ancona. Ancona is an entre pot for European goods for the Levant, and the chief point for ANCKE ANDALUSIA the steam communication between the latter and the Adriatic. The port, which is the only good one on this side the Ad riatic, between Venice and Manfrcdonia, is formed by a mole and a breakwater. The former runs out from the N. part of the city, nearly 2000 ft. ; it is 68 ft. high, and 100 ft. broad ; on its extremity there are a battery and a lighthouse; the latter runs out from the lazaretto about 2100 ft., and the total space enclosed measures about 3000 ft. by 2700 ft. ft. above the sea. The great road from Madrid to Seville and Granada cuts the sierra Morena at the pass called the Des- pefia-perros, 7560 ft. high. The geological features of Anda lusia exhibit a great prevalence of mica slate, gneiss, and other primary and transition rocks on the elevated tracts, both in the N. and S., with tertiary and more recent formations in the large intervening river valley. All the mountains abound with mineral wealth, yielding silver and lead, antimony, cop per, iron, vitriol, sulphur, coal, and marble. The principal river of Andalusia is the Guadalquivir, which rises in the E. part of prov. Jaen, near Cazorla, and thenca flows S.W. by W., and below Seville, S.S.W., for about 320 m., entering the Mediterranean at San Lucar; its principal affluents being the Guadalimar, Guadiato, and Xenil, and the whole basin cover ing an area of 15,040 sq. m., or considerably more than half Andalusia. The rivers S. of the sierra Nevada are quite in significant. The vegetation is of the character peculiar to the extreme S. of Europe and the N. districts of Africa; the mastic (Pistacia lentiscus), myrtle, olive, palm, banana, &c., grow abundantly in the valley of the Guadalquivir, which are replaced S. of the sierra Nevada by saffron, cotton, and the sugar cane. Wheat, maize, barley, many varieties of fruit, and different kinds of grapes, grow here, almost spontaneously ; besides which, honey, silk, and cochineal form important articles of culture ; but the arts of husbandry are in the most backward state, and the metayer system of letting land com bines with the people s natural indolence to prevent any im provement. The accompanying view of a farm steading near Three or four frigates may lie, well sheltered from all winds, inside the lighthouse, moored head and stern ; but nowhere can large vessels swing at their anchors. A new beacon was erected, in 1842, on the Volpe, or Wolf Rock, near the en trance to the harbour. Wood, provisions, vegetables, &c., I are plentiful, cheap, and good. Ancona is supposed to have been founded by a Doric colony, or by a band of Syracusan patriots, who fled from the tyranny of Dionysius, about 400 B.C. It subsequently fell into the hands of the Romans, being taken possession of by Caesar. The Emperors Trajan and Clement XII. improved and beau tified the harbour. In 1798, it was taken by the French, and in the following year it surrendered to the allied Russian, Turkish, and Austrian army, after a long resistance. In 1832, it was again taken possession of by the French, who did not evacuate it until 1838. All religious sects enjoy here complete toleration. Pop. 3G.OOO. ANCRE. See ALBERT. ANCRUM, a par. and vil. Scotland, co. Roxburgh ; area, 8316 ac. In this parish was fought the battle of Ancrum Moor, in 1544, between the Scotch and English, in which the latter were defeated. Pop. in 1841, 499. ANCYRA. See ANGORA. ANDAD KHAN, or ANDEJAN, a considerable tn. of In dependent Tartary, territory of Kokan, on the 1. bank of the Sihoun; lat. 41 20 N. ; Ion. 71 27 E. ; 50 m. E.S.E. the city of Kokan, situated in the midst of gardens. ANDAIA. See ANDAYA. ANDALUSIA [Spanish, Andalucia], a dist. in the S. of Spain, celebrated for its fertility and picturesque beauty, between lat. 36 and 38 C 40 N. ; and between Ion. 1 40 and 7 25 W. ; bounded, N. by Estremadura and New Castile, E. by Murcia, S by the Mediterranean Sea, and W. by Por tugal. Length from E. to W., 320 m. ; average breadth, 140 m. ; estimated area, 27,221 sq. m. It comprehends the ancient Moorish kingdoms of Cordova, Sevilla, Granada, and Jaen, and the modern provinces of Seville, Huelva, Cadiz, Jaen, Cordova, Granada, Almeria, and Malaga. It is of very uneven surface, being traversed through its whole extent by mountain ranges. The sierra Morena runs along its N. confine, and in the S.E. rise the mountains of Granada and Ronda, including numerous sierras which run E. to the mouth of the Guadalquivir. Many summits of the latter ranges are covered with perpetual snow, the Mulahacen rising 11,483ft., and the Picacho de Vcleta 11,385ft., above the sea; on the former of these is the Lake of Caldera, 10,112 ANBAMTSIAN FARMSTEAD. From Huron Taylor, Voyage Pittoresque en Puerto Santa Maria, 6 m. N.E. Cadiz, will convey an idea of the appearance of buildings of this kind in Andalusia, and the S. of Spain generally. Situated, as it is, inside a fosse covered with a strong defence of prickly aloes, the features it presents are more likely to attract the eye of the painter than to please that of the skilful agriculturist. By far the largest portion of the soil is left for pasture land, or abandoned uninhabitable wastes. The horses are the best breed in the peninsula, partaking very much of the Arabian character ; the bulls of Andalusia are sought after over all bull-fighting Spain ; sheep (trashumantes) are reared in vast numbers, and bear an abundance of good, but not fine, wool ; and the hogs reared on the acorns of the mountain forest furnish hams and bacon unsurpassed in any part of Europe. Wolves and bears are only now and then found, and there are no venomous reptiles. Game, including deer, hares, rabbits, partridges, bustards, and plovers, is abundant. The chief manufactures of this extensive tract, which depends almost exclusively on the soil for its wealth, are woollens, silk, and leather, which are by no means extensive. The Andalusians are descended in part from the Moors, of whom they still preserve the leading types, being dark in complexion, black eyed, of exquisitely rounded shape and stalwart figures, with quick wit, ready repartee, and love of exaggeration. They are eminently superstitious and imaginative gasconading, fawning, cowardly, and cruel ; and their intellect and energy wither under the perpetual call ing on patron saints and men to do their work for them. The dress, both of males and females, is gaudy and picturesque. Education is in a low state, and smugglers and robbers ANDAMAN ISLANDS 145 ANDENNE abound. Pop. 2.745,858. (Widdrington s Spain; Ford s Handbook for Spain; &c.) ANDAMAN ISLANDS, or ANDAMANS, a chain of islands on the E. side of the Bay of Bengal, consisting of four principal islands, and a number of smaller; the former called, respectively, North Andaman, Middle Andaman, South Anda man, and Little Andaman; the latter separated from the others by a channel of about 45 in. in width, called Dun can s Passage. The three first-named islands are separated by straits so narrow, that they are often considered as one. The whole chain extends from lat. 10 29 to 14 55 N. ; Ion. 92 23 to 94 13 E. In this extent, N. and S., are included the island of Preparis, uninhabited, except by sea fowl, squirrels, and apes, and the islands of the Cow and Calf, which, by some, are excluded from this group. The largest island, Middle Andaman, is from 55 to 60 m. in length, and from 15 to 20 in breadth ; N. Andaman, 48 m. in length, and 15 in breadth ; S. Andaman, 50 m. in length, and varying from 10 to 20 in breadth; these three forming an all but continuous island of upwards of 150 m. in length. Little Andaman is about 30 m. in length, by about 18 to 20 m. in breadth. In the centre of the largest island there is a mountain, called Saddle Peak, about 2400 ft. high. These islands are mountainous, and form the continuation of the vol canic line N. from Sumatra. The only active volcano, how ever, in the group, is on Barren Island, which is uninhabited, and sparingly covered with shrubby vegetation. It is 1700 ft. high ; and its last recorded eruption took place in 1792. There are no rivers in any of the islands, but only brooks, which in the rainy season are swollen into torrents, and in the summer season are quite dry. Wells, however, are nu merous. The chief riches of the group consists in wood, with which about nine-tenths of their surface is covered. Teak, dammar, red wood, iron wood, ebony, the turpentine tree, catechu, cotton, melons, aloes, bamboos, ratans, and vast quantities of cocoa nuts, whence two of the islets are named, constitute the most important vegetable productions. There are few wild animals ; the principal are the rat, the snake, the guana or lizard, and a number of diminutive swine. Birds are neither numerous nor in great variety ; the Hirundo esculenta builds in the sea cliffs its edible nests. Pish are very abundant, more especially during the N.E. monsoons, and constitute, along with shell fish, the principal food of the inhabitants, who are true ichthyophagi, resorting to wild fruits, roots, rats, snakes, and lizards, only when fish are scarce. The natives do not eat their animal food raw, but roast it on the coals. They are of the Papuan race, generally about 5 ft. in height, of a deep black complexion, with woolly hair, "VOL. I, flat noses, thick lips, small red eyes, and protuberant bellies. They wear no covering ; live in the rudest habitations, com posed of four poles intertwined with ratans, their bed a heap of dried leaves ; they have no implements of iron, their spears and arrows being pointed with fish bones, or wood hardened in the fire. They carry bows 4 or 5 ft. long ; and, to protect themselves from insects, smear their bodies daily with, mud, which, added to the red ochre with which they bedaub their hair, gives them a most hideous appearance. The canoes with which they fish, and which they manage with dexterity, are made of bamboo ; but when visiting the islands they use small rafts. In 1791, the English effected a settlement near the S. extremity of the Great Andaman ; but in 1793, removed it to Port Cornwallis, on the E. side, and near the N. ex tremity. The object of the undertaking was the procuring of a good harbour to shelter ships during the N.E. monsoon, and to receive convicts from Bengal; but in 1796, the situa tion was abandoned as unhealthy. All the attempts then or subsequently made to establish any kind of intercourse with the natives proved ineffectual, as, on every occasion, they manifested the most hostile disposition. The pop. of the entire group does not exceed 3000. ANDAYA, or ANDAIA, a river, Brazil, an affluent of the Francisco, prov. Minas Geraes, rises in the sierra Matta Gorda, about lat. 19 10 S. ; flows N.E. by N., and falls into the Francisco at lat. 18 10 S. ; its whole course being about 120 m. AND AYE, or HENDAYE, a small seaport tn. France, dep. Basses-Pyrenees, 12 m. S.W. Bayonne, on r. bank, Bi- dassoa, a little above its embouchure. It has a small fort and several distilleries, in which excellent brandy is produced. It was near this place that the Duke of Wellington crossed the Bidassoa in 1814, and gained the first permanent footing in the French territory. Pop. 470. ANDEER, atn. Switzerland, can. Grisons, 1. bank, Rhine, 14 m. S.S.W. Coire. It stands about 3400 ft. above the level of the sea ; has a prettily situated parish church, and mineral springs, at which a bathing establishment has been erected. The springs are very copious, but not much fre quented. A very large landslip or beryfall occurred above Andeer in 1835. Pop. 549. ANDEJAN. See ANDAD KHAN. ANDELFINGEN, a vil. Switzerland, can. of, and 18 m. N. from Zurich, cap. bail, of same name, 1. bank, Thur, over which is a covered bridge. It is the seat of a civil court. The inhabitants are chiefly occupied in agricultural pursuits. Several engagements took place in the vicinity, in 1799, between the Austrians, Russians, and French. Pop., including that of some adjacent hamlets, 2400. -The BAIL., which lies on both sides the Thur, and borders on Schaff- hausen and the Rhine, is well cultivated, fruitful, and pro duces good grapes, grain, and hemp. Pop. 14,580. ANDELLE, a small river, France, dep. Seine Inferieure. It rises near Forges, and falls into the Seine a few miles below Pont de-1 Arche, after a course, from N. to S., of about 30m. ANDELYS (LES), two tns. France, called Le Grand and Le Petit Andely, distant half a mile from each other, dep. Eure, r. bank, Seine, 19m. S.E. Kouen, and 4 m. from the Paris and Rouen Railway, cap. arrond. of same name. Grand An dely was formerly fortified, and part of its defences still exists. Its houses are ill built, and its streets narrow ; but its church is one of the finest in the department. Petit Andely, which lies nearest the Seine, here spanned by a suspension bridge, owes its origin to Richard Coeur de Lion, who, in 1195, built here, on his return from Palestine, the chateau Gaillard, in its time one of the strongest fortresses in France, and in which David II., King of Scotland, found an asylum in 1334. This interesting building is now wholly a ruin, it having for a considerable time been used as a quarry whence to obtaizi stones for building convents. Manufactures: Fine cloth cassimeres, cotton net, linen, earthenware, woollen and cotton thread. Trade in grain, wool, cattle, linen, &c. Pop. 3456. ANDENNE, a tn. Belgium, cap. can. of same name, prov. of, and 13 m. E. Namur, r. bank, Meusc. It has a church, five chapels, and a townhouse ; but none of them build ings of note. The great staples are delft ware, porcelain, and tobacco pipes, for all of which Andenne is famous. It has paper mill and a cotton mill, both driven by steam ; a 19 ANDERAB 146 ANDES printfield, several bleachfields, tile works, a work for making minium (red lead or vermilion), and a blast furnace. In the neighbourhood are beds of pipe clay, quarries of marble, and mines of lead, iron, and a kind of coarse coal called terre- houille. The railway from Namur to Liege passes near An- denne. Pop. 4885. ANDERAB, or INDERAB, a tu. Tartary, in Budakshan, about 85 m. N.N.E. Cabool ; lat. 35 43 N. ; Ion. 74 55 15" E. (c.) It lies at the junction of the rivers Anderab and Kiasan, at the foot of a hill, and surrounded by fine gardens, fruit trees, and vineyards. It is a populous place ; and con tains the storehouses in which are kept the silver brought from Harianaand Bendjehir, supposed to be a mine, or mines. (Hitter s Erdkutule.) ANDERAVI A, or IXDERABIA, a small isl. Persian Gulf; lat. 26 41 N. ; Ion. 53 39 E. (K.) It is 4 m. long, low, level, and narrow; separated from the mainland by a strait 1 m. broad, the navigation of which is very dangerous. Vessels are supplied here with fresh water. ANDERBY, a par. England, co. Lincoln ; 1080 ac. ; 5 m. E. Alford. Pop. in 1841, 243. ANDERMATT, or URSERN, a vil. Switzerland, can. Uri, 20 m. S. Altorf, on an elevated plain, 4500 ft. above the sea level, on the great route over the St. Gothard into Italy. It lias a pretty church, two chapels, a convent of Capuchins, and a townhall. Cattle rearing and the transit trade are the chief occupations. The cheese produced here is highly esteemed, but from its softness is incapable of transportation. Though a mere village, Andermatt is much visited by strangers, on account of the interesting scenery of the valley. But the principal object of attraction is the celebrated Devil s Bridge, which spans a fearful chasm, at the bottom of which the Eeuss rushes downwards with great violence. The old narrow arch, said to be a construction of the 12th century, rises 75 ft. above the stream. This rugged pass was, in 1799, the scene of some desperate skirmishes between the Austrians, Russians, and French. Pop. G63. ANDERNACH [anc. Antoniacum, or Anthenethum], a tn. Prussia, prov. Lower Ehine, gov. of, and 10 m. N.W. from Coblentz, in a plain, 1. bank, Ehine. It is surrounded by a strong wall, with massy gates, which give it an air of great antiquity, but its streets are narrow and dirty. It is of Roman origin, Drusus C ajsar having encamped on the spot before the Christian era, and built a bridge over the Rhine. In 355, it was pillaged by the Alemanni, and, four years after, was restored by the Emperor Julian. The building most deserving of notice in Andernach is the Dom, or parish church of the 13th century, highly ornamented with bas reliefs, and interesting specimens of sculpture. In the in terior is a Roman tomb. The Coblentz gate is an elegant Gothic structure. Near it, on the Coblentz road, are the ruins of the castellated palace of the Archbishops of Cologne ; and not far off, close to the river, stands an old gateway, supposed to have been built by the Romans. Andernach has long been famous for the production of two peculiar articles millstones and trass or cement. The former were used by the Romans and are still exported to all parts of the world. They are composed of a species of basaltic lava, which is easily cut into large slabs, and used as door posts, lintels, &e. The trass is a species of tufa, which is chiefly found in the neighbouring quarries of Brohl, and is supposed to have been formed either by a torrent of volcanic mud, or showers of pumice and ashes, which, falling into a lake, have then mixed with the materials deposited by it, and been converted into stone. To prepare it for use, it is ground to powder by mills, and then possesses the property of hardening under water. The ancients used it in the solid state for sarcophagi; and in the quarries of Brohl, votive tablets, with Roman inscriptions, have been discovered. In addition to the millstones and trass, Andemach has a variety of products paper, leather, potash, earthen pipes, wood charcoal ; and mineral water resembling seltzer, but still more effervescent, obtained from a spring in the neighbour hood. Near Andernach, various rafts of timber which descend the Rhine are collected into one great float, 1000 ft. long and 90 ft. wide, destined for Dordrecht in Holland. Pop. 3200. ANDERLECHT, a suburb of Brussels (which sec). ANDEROT. See UNDEROOT. ANDERSON, a par. England, co. Dorset ; 750 ac. ; 7 m. S.W. Blandford. Pop. in 1841, 43. ANDERSON, the name of several places, U. States:!, A dist. and vil., S. Carolina. 2, A co. Kentucky. 3, A co. Tennessc. 4, A township, Ohio. 5, A township, Iowa. ANDERSON (CAPE), the E. point of the island of St. Lawrence, at the entrance of Behring s Straits ; lat. 63 N. Ion. 168 30 W. ANDERSON S INLET, Australia, S. Bass s Straits, between Capes Liptrap and Patterson. It is full of mud banks, and available for boats only. ANDES (THE), a range of mountains, of such vast extent and altitude, as to render them one of the most remarkable physical features of the globe. It commences at a point about 50 m. N. of the Straits of Magalhacns, and about the same distance E. from the shores of the Pacific. From this point it proceeds in a connected line along the W. coast of S. America, at a distance from the sea varying from 20 to 160 m.; the former occurring in Bolivia, about lat. 18 S.; the latter in Chili, between lat. 35 and 40 S. Passing through Peru, it enters Colombia, where, about lat. 2 28 N.; Ion. 76 31 W., near Popayan, it throws off two branches, taking a N.E. direction towards the Caribbean sea. The main range, continuing its N. course, but now presenting much lower altitudes, traverses the Isthmus of Panama or Darien, the state of Nicaragua, Guatimala, Mexico, and passing throughout the entire length of N. America from S. to N., under the names of the Oregon or Rocky Mountains, terminates at Point Barrow on the Arctic Ocean, about 200 m. N. W. from the mouth of the Mackenzie river; their whole length, thus considered, amounting to about 10,000 m. The name Andes is, however, usually restricted to that part of the chain belong ing to S. America. It docs not, however, consist of a single ridge, but of a scries of ridges, running more or less parallel to each e other, between which are several elevated plains or table lands. These mountains are known, also, in several places in S. America, by the name of the Cordilleras ; but a strict and well-defined appropriation of these names has not yet been made, they being called indifferently by the one and the other, and hence a good deal of confusion and inaccuracy. A late intelligent traveller, J. J. von Tschudi, suggests that the name Andes should be restricted to the E. chain, and that of Cordillera to the W., or that nearest the Pacific. The Andes extend through so great a space, and present such a variety of aspects and conditions, that, in order to de scribe its ranges with more accuracy, it has been customary to divide this immense chain into four portions the Patagonian, Chilian, Peruvian and Bolivian, and the Colombian Andes, from the names of the countries through which they pass. 1. The Patagonian Andes, which extend about 800 m., are generally considered to commence in Tierra del Fuego, on the insulated Cape Horn (3000 ft.) in lat. 55 59 S. ; and Ion. 67 21 W. The mountains of this insular group, how ever, seem to be distinct from the continental chain, which, accordingly, we reckon as extending from lat. 48 to 42 S. The range presses close on the Pacific Ocean ; and the average elevation scarcely exceeds 3000 ft., though several summits rise some thousands of feet higher, namely, Mount Melimoyu (7400 ft.), Yanteles (8030 ft.), and the volcanoes of Corcobado (7510 ft.), and Minchinmadom (8000 ft.) The lower portions of the W. slope are clothed with dense forests. Of the other side we have no knowledge, although the width of the chain scarcely reaches 40 m. 2. The Chilian Andes commence opposite the N. end of the island of Chiloe, and extent N. about 1250 m., to lat. 24 S. ; with an average width of about 130 m. They form a single chain as far as the 35th S. parallel ; N. of which, at the volcano of Peteroa, a double range may be traced, a portion of which is called the Paramilla range, running parallel to the main chain, and separated therefrom by the longitudinal valley of Aspaltata, a barren district only 15 m. wide, but extending about 160 m. N., as far as the river San Juan. This chain seems to be connected, further N., with the Fama- tima range, E. of which is the sierra Velasco, province of Rioja, in La Plata; and also in the provinces of Catamaraca and Salta there are numerous offshoots and parallel ranges. The principal peaks, proceeding N., are the volcanoes of Antuco (16,000 ft.), Maypu (15,000 ft.), and Tupungato (15,000 ft.); but the culminatiiiff point, not only of this portion, but of the entire range of tJie Andes, is the yiant porphyritic Nevada of Aconcagua, which rises, according to Cants. Fitzroy and ANDES 14? ANDES Beechy, 23,910 ft. above the sea, and is distinctly visible from Valparaiso, 100 m. distant. The line of perpetual snow, in these latitudes, is about 14,000 ft. above the sea. The Chilian Andes, under the 35th S. parallel, are about 150 m. from the Pacific ; but this distance decreases to about 80 m. in the latitude of Valparaiso. Between the Andes and the shore are extensive plains, elevated from 1000 to 1500 ft. above the sea ; and these are mostly clothed with forest trees, and a rich vegetation ; but the more elevated mountain re gions are rocky, and almost wholly without plants. 3. The Peruvian and Bolivian Andes comprise that portion of the range which, from the 24th to the 6th S. parallels, include a length of 1250 m. From its S. end to the Cerro Cliorolque, in lat. 21 7 S.; Ion. 65 40 W., which is about 95 m. S. by W. Potosi, the Andes form one grand and con tinuous chain; but N. of this point the range bifurcates, intercepting a lofty table land or longitudinal valley of the Desaguadero and Lake Titicaca. Both these parallel Cordil leras the W. or coast range of which is called the cordillera of the coast, the other or E. the cordillera of Bolivia or Ancu- ma are of very great elevation, and were once thought to comprise the highest summits of the whole range ; but Mr. Pentland s observations in his second survey (1836-38) have proved this conclusion erroneous. The following list comprises some of the principal summits on each side of the range, together with their position and altitude as given by that gentleman : 1 . Cordillera of the Coast. 2. Cordillera of Bolivia or \neuma. Name. Sahama Parinaeota Gualateiri Pomaiape Volcano of Arcquipa.. Chipieani S. lat. W. Ion. Feet. ...18 7 . ..68 52 22,350 ...18 10 ...69 11 22,030 ...20 13 ...69 17 22,000 ...Is 8 ...69 3 21,700 ..1C- 19 ...71 23 20,300 ..17 43 ...69 47 19,740 Illimani (illi, snow) 16 39 ...67 48 N. peak..21,0(!0 Do ... S. peak.. .21,149 Ancoliuma 15 52 ...68 33 N. pcak..21,043 1)0 ... S. peak...21,286 Chachacomani 16 ...68 25 N. peak..20,235 9 St^Z?:..}"V <" 20,60 Mesada Nevado 16 30 ...67 52 19,356 Angel Peak 16 10 ...68 14 19,060 Cacaca 16 25 ...68 58 18,210 Cololo 14 57 ...69 10 17,930 Hence it will be seen that, even in this district, the highest are W., not E. of the Desaguadero and Lake Titicaca, as was long thought by the most eminent geographers, and, among others, by Humboldt, and by Pentland himself. (See his paper on the Bolivian Andes, Geo. Jour., vol. v. pp. 70-89.) These parallel Cordilleras, however, the united breadth of which nowhere exceeds 230 m., are united in various points by enormous transverse groups or mountain knots, or else by single ranges crossing between them like dikes. The de scent to the Pacific is exceedingly steep ; the dip is also very rapid to the E., whence offsets diverge to the level plains. The table land of the Desaguadero, thus enclosed, has itself an absolute altitude of 12,900 ft., a length of 400 m., and an area of 150,000 sq. m. A large E. offset, the sierra de Cochabamba, leaves the E. cordillera under the 17th parallel, bounding the rich plain of Cochabamba N., and ending nearly under the 63d W. meridian, at Santa Cruz de la Sierra. The two main Cordilleras once more unite in the group of Vilcanota, in lat. 15 S., about 120 m S.E. of Cuzco, which is itself 8370 ft. above the sea ; and the united range then runs about 280 m. N.VV. to the town of Huanaco, whence it runs N.N.W. in two ridges, enclosing a plateau 11,000 ft. high, named Pasco or Huauuco, in lat. 10 40 3., where the Andes separate into three nearly parallel chains the E., Central, and W. cordil- leras, which enclose between them the rivers Huallaga and Upper Maraiion ; the W. or coast cordillera rnnning N. as far as the group of Loja, near the S. extremity of Ecuador. 4. The Colombian Andes, or Andes of Quito. This por tion of the range may be considered as commencing in 6 lat. S., opposite the Point Aguja, where it takes a course nearly due N., forming, as in Chili, a single mass or rocky plateau, 80 m. broad, covered with a double series of highly-elevated summits, enclosing longitudinal valleys, one of which, that of Cuenca, in the group of Assouan, is 15,520 ft. high, or nearly within the region of perpetual snow. N. of this point the c-hain again divides, the W. range comprising Mounts Chiin- borazo (21,424 ft.), Iliniza (17,380 ft.), and Picliincha (15,924 ft.); while on the E. range are the volcanoes Saniray (16,138 ft), Tunguragua(16,424 ft.), Cotopaxi (18,875 ft.), Antisana (19,137 ft.), and Mount Cayambe (19,535 ft.) Shortly after entering New Granada, crossing the equator, the chain, in lat. 1 & N., again meets in the knot or plateau of Los Pastes, on which are the volcanoes Cumbal (15,620 ft.), and Chiles , but, a little N. of the city of Pastos, it once more bifurcates, enclosing the mountain plain of Almaguer, comprising the volcano of Purace (17,034 ft.) on its E. branch ; and finally, somewhat N. the town of Popayan, the Andes separate into three distinct ridges the sierra di Choco, running N. to the Isthmus of Panama ; the sierra di Quindiu, running E. of the river Cauca ; and the sierra Somma Paz, extending E. of the Magdalena to Lake Maracaybo and the city of Valencia in Venezuela. N. of the 5th N. parallel, the only summits within the snow line on these Cordilleras belong to the E. chain, which also is very precipitous on its E. slope. The plain of Bogota lies at an elevation of 8730 ft. On the Quindiu or central chain is the volcano of Tolima (18,020 ft.), in lat. 4 46 N. ; Ion. 75 37 W. The Choco or coast chain is of compara tively small elevation, its highest point not exceeding 9000 ft. The mountains of Panama, which join the Andes N., may be considered as a continuation of the sierra di Choco. Passes and Roads of the Andes. This gigantic mountain chain is traversed in its different parts by numerous roads or passes, at heights almost equal to those of the extreme sum mits of the European ranges. Most of them are narrow, rugged, steep, and sometimes slippery and dangerous, pass ing through gorges, across yawning chasms, and up nearly perpendicular rocks ; nor can they be attempted with success, except by the active and well -practised native, or the enter prising, courageous, and well-provided traveller. It is worthy of remark, likewise, that nearly all these roads cross (tor 1 ridge, run transversely and direct, not, as is sometimes the case in the Alps, by a circuitous course through the longitudinal valleys. Subjoined is a list of most of the known mountain passes, with their position, connected localities, and highest elevation, commencing with the Andes of Chili, those of Patagonia being as yet quite unknown : Names. 1. ( Portillo, lat. 33 40 S Chilian \ Penqucmes, do. do Andes. ( Ciimlire. lat. 32 52 S.... Ilolivian and Pe- Pass of Tola] ass of Con lea rl acheta.. Pass of Pacuam Pass of Gualillas, lat. 17 50- S.. Pass of Cliullunquiani .. . . Feet. from Santiago to F.stacada...! t,365 do. do. do. do ....... 13,210 from Valparaiso toMendo/.a. 12,450 from Potosi to Oruro ......... 14,190 do. do. do ............ 14,040 ( from La Paz to tlie ) , , ,, , 1 Valley of the Beni... [ 15 349 Arica to La Paz . do. from do. 14,750 do ............ 15,160 i l a to Pu " ...... 15 590 t. If Angostura ................... between TacoraSt lake Titieara 10,620 Pass bv San Mateo, lat. ) from Lima to Tarnia and ) , - ~ rr . 1148 S ........... \ Paseo ............. 16,760 Alto de Tacaibiunba Pass. [ r T . . .. (15,135 Alto de Lnclm.ni.il Pass... [ from Jau J !l to > \ l^SO cJL, J H l" ur/.. 1 ! 1 . 6 P . aram .. de } * A1 - si *> Cnene- ....... 15,528 Andes. ( RoadovertheQuinuiuPass do. do. to Cart ago ....... 11,502 Besides the routes just mentioned, a great commercial road runs longitudinally along the Andes the whole distance from Truxillo, lat. 8 5 S., to Popayan, lat. 2 25 N., in the valley of the Cauca, not much less than 1000 m. It runs by Loja (6770 ft.), and by a pass over the Paramo de Asstiay to Cuenca and Quito (9543 ft.), whence it proceeds by the Paramo de Bolicha (11,500 ft.), to Pasto and Almaguer (7440ft.), and Papayan (5720 ft.) Six roads are reported to cross the sierra di Choco, but they are difficult and steep, practicable only by carriage on the backs of the natives. Those most used are from Cali on the Cauca to Port Buenaventura, from Cartago to Novita, and from Antioquia to the Rio Atrato. Many of these roads are exceedingly difficult to traverse, not only from the great height to which they ascend, but likewise from their roughness, unevenness, and narrowness, winding as they often do along brinks of enormous precipices, and present ing so limited a pathway, that frequently it becomes neces sary to re-adjust the burdens on the mules backs, lest, being left an inch or so too broad, the poor animal may be driven over into the gulf below. Subjoined is a view of the pass near Tacora, a village in the Bolivian Andes, on the road between Arica and La Paz, and situated 13,690 ft. above the sea level. The pass itself is understood to be 14,400 ft. above ANDES 148 ANDES the son, though Lieut. Ashe, E. N., made it, by the boiling point of water, 18,000 ft. The nearest truncated peak is the volcano of Chipicani, 19,710 ft. high. These paths lead across que- bradas or ravine*, bridged sometimes by frozen snow on which TACORA PASS. From n Sketch liy Lieut. Ashe, R.N. the mules cross. At times also progress is completely im peded by the large masses of rock that fall down and block up the path, frequently preventing for a time the passage of mules. *In such cases, or where the road has been swept away, or where the path is inaccessible to four-footed ani mals, burdens are borne by the cargueros or carriers, who not only transport baggage from one valley to another, but also, in a chair strapped to their back, carry the traveller likewise : an easy mode of locomotion, and not dangerous, though the carguero generally takes the steepest declivities, when, were the traveller not to lie back in his chair, both he and his bearer might be precipitated to the bottom. The accompanying view is of a remarkable pass between Tacora and Lake Titicaca. It is about 10 m. long, and the river which has formed it has, at the same time, cut the rocks into curious castellated forms. The pathway is blocked up by a fallen mass of rock. The difficulty of travelling in these ch by Lieut, Anile, R.N. regions presents a serious obstacle to the progress of com merce and of general improvement, and tends much to pre serve the primitive habits of the people, by shutting them out in a great measure from intercourse with the external world. Rivera and Lakes. From the Andes rise two of the largest water systems of the world the Amazon and its afflu ents, and the La Plata and its affluents. Besides which, in the N., from its slopes flow the Magdalen;i to the Caribbean Sea, and some tributaries to the Orinoco ; and in the S. the rivers Colorado, Negro, and some smaller streams. All these rivers flow towards the Atlantic Ocean. The mountain chain pressing so close upon the Pacific Ocean, no streams of import ance flow from its W. slopes. The number of lakes interspersed through this vast mountain sys tem is not great ; in this respect presenting a strik ing contrast to the Swiss Alps. The largest and most important, and only one worthy of notice, is that of Titicaca, on the Bolivian plateau. It is 12,850 ft. above the sea level, about 115 m. long, by 35 broad, surrounded by lofty mountains. On its banks arc some considerable towns, and its waters are navigated. G -ologi/, <{-c. In considering the geology of the Andes, the first fact that strikes the observer is the vast development of volcanic force along the whole length of the chain, and even continued N. through Guatimala and Mexico. These volcanic vents seem to occur in linear groups, the most S. of which is that of Chili, extending from the 42d to the 33d parallel, and comprising, besides, more than a dozen extinct volcanoes, 2 1 still in a state of ignition ; the more remarkable of which are Tupungato (15,100 ft.), Antuco (13,000 ft.), and Minchinmadom (8000 ft.) From the 30th to the 27th parallels, no volcanic action is to be found; but in the Bolivian Andes, and principally W. of Lake Titieaca, are eight active craters, among i which may be mentioned Gualatieri (22.000 ft.), Atacama [ (18,000 ft.), Chipicani (19,740 ft.), and Arequipa (18,400 ft.) Further N., as far as the 2d S. parallel, there are no active volcanoes ; but here we arrive at a district of highly volcanic character, comprising other eight lofty summits, now in an igneous state Sangay, Tungaragua, Cotopaxi, Antisana, Im- babura, Cumbal, Pasto, and Purace. As respects the geolo gical formations of this gigantic range, granite, which is abundant in Tierra del Fuego and Patagonia, seems to be the base of the whole ; but it comes so rarely to the surface in the N. parts of the chain, that, according to Humboldt, a person might travel for years in the Andes of Peru without meeting this species of rock ; and he never saw any at a greater abso lute elevation than 11,500 ft. Gneiss is sometimes found in connection with the granite ; but mica schist is by far the commonest of all the crystalline rocks. Quartz is likewise extremely abundant, generally mixed with mica, and rich in gold and specular iron. Vast tracts of red sand stone, with gypseous and saliferous marls, occur near Quito, and not only on various parts of tho main range, but in E. Colombia and Venezuela they spread over immense tracts, here and there associated with coal, as in the Andes of Pasco in Peru. Porphyry and greenstone abound all over the range at every elevation, both on the slopes and extreme ridges; and trachyte is almost as abundant as porphyry, both in Peru and Chili, great masses of it, from 14,000 to 18,000 ft. thick, being visible on Chimborazo and Pichincha. Ba salt, of columnar structure, enclosing olivine, and overlaid by thick beds of clay, is found on the table land of Quito, near Popayan, and on the W. bank of the Cauca. As respects volcanic products, the W. face of the Andes presents immense quan tides of lava, tufa, and obsidian, none of which are found on the E. side; this remark applies especially to that part of the chain lying between Chili and the equator. Fossil remains are by no means common ; but in the limestone strata of the coast, towards the N. extremity of the range, Humboldt found many marine shells, of the silur- ian period, about 30 m. from the coast; and Portland observed others of the same era, at a height of 17,500 ft., on Mount Antakawa, in Bolivia, as well as in several other parts. Earthquakes. Many of the volcanoes, as before observed, are in a state either of constant or occasional action ; it cannot, therefore, be matter of surprise that there should be frequent and violent earthquakes. All the districts of the Andes sys tem, but Chili especially, have suffered more severely from these oscillations than any other part of the world ; and amow* ANDES 149 ANDES the towns either destroyed or greatly injured by these visita tions may be mentioned Bogota, Quito, Riobamba, Lima, Callao, Valparaiso, and Concepcion. In 1819, Copiapo was entirely overturned, not a house being left standing. Con cepcion was twice destroyed in 1730 and 1751 ; and on Nov. 21, 1822, an earthquake was felt on the same day, not only there, in lat. 37 N., but at Lima, in lat. 12 N., more than 1700 in. distant ; it was on this occasion that Valparaiso, Melipella, and Quillota, were all but completely annihilated. This earthquake, too, had the remarkable effect of upheaving the land on the coast, upwards of 100 in. in extent, to the height of 3 or 4 ft., and elevating a portion of the shore above high- water mark. These shocks continued at brief intervals till the autumn of 1823 ; and since that time the volcanoes of Maypfi, until then for many years quiescent, have had frequent eruptions. In fact, earthquakes, slight or more serious, are of yearly occurrence, and faint oscillations of the soil are re garded with scarcely more attention than a hail storm in the temperate zone. When they assume a serious and destructive character, however, they strike natives, as well as travellers, with impressions of awe and dread, which no familiarity with their occurrence can at all weaken. The native, when aroused from sleep by the shock, rushes forth in terror into the open air ; and the traveller, although he may before have treated the matter with levity, and mocked at the fears of those around him, is in turn panic-stricken, and involuntarily seeks safety in flight (Tschudis Pern, pp. 109-172). Mineral Produce. The Andes are richer in the precious metals than any country in the world, excepting the plateau of Mexico, and the rivers of California ; but, however great the supplies that have been obtained from them, there can be no question that the produce of the mines would be immensely increased, if a rational and scientific method of operation were substituted for the present rude and clumsy mode of working. In Chili, the largest gold diggings are in the districts of Pe- torea, Coquimbo, and Copiapo ; the richest in Peru are in the provinces of Pataz and Huailas, and on the banks of the Tipuani, E. of the Lake Titicaca ; and in New Granada, the most pro ductive lavaderos or washings are in the provinces of Antio- quia and Choco, in the valley of the river Cauca ; and on the Pacific, in the district of Barbacoas. The largest piece of gold ever found in New Granada weighed 25 Ibs. ; but, near La Paz, one has been found of nearly double that weight. As respects the annual produce of this metal, no very exact esti mate can be formed, but it probably somewhat exceeds in value 1,200,000 sterling. Silver occurs in Chili, on the Cerro de Uspallata, 24 in. N. by W. Mendoza, where the ore yields about 50 per cent, of pure silver. The Peruvian Andes have numerous silver mines scattered over their whole extent, from the province of Caxamarca S. to the confines of Chili ; but incomparably the richest are the mines of Lauricacha, in the Cerro de Pasco, which have been worked upwards of two centuries. The returns fluctuate exceedingly, but they may average annually about 2,500,000 oz. ; which, at 4s. Qd. per oz., are valued at 512,500. The mines of Chota likewise, which are situated on Mount Hualgayoc (13,300 ft.), are productive. The ore, which is richer even than that of Pasco, lies either on or very near the surface ; and the returns may average annually about 670,200 oz., of the value of 184,300 sterling. Close to the Pacific, at Huantajaya, in the district of Arica, are several mines celebrated for the quantity of virgin silver found therein, sometimes in masses of great weight. But of all the mines of S. America, the most famed are those of the Cerro de Potosi, lat. 19 36 S., which is perforated, in all directions, by thousands of openings, some of which are within 100 ft. of the summit (16,000 ft.) In order to drain the lower mines of Potosi, an adit has been constructed, l m. long, and 14 ft. in height and width. In New Granada, likewise, there are rich veins of silver ; but no mines have as yet been opened whose products pay the expense of working. As respects the entire amount of silver in all the districts of the Andes, it is not possible to arrive at any exact statement ; but it will not probably be far from the truth to estimate it as equal to 950,000 sterling, less than one-half of its amount half a cen tury ago ! If this be correct, the grand total value, annually, of the precious metals, gold and silver, produced in the Andes, S. of the Isthmus of Panama, may amount to 2,140,000; nearly one-third less than it was, as estimated by Humboldt, in 1804. Subjoined is a statement of the estimated produce of all the gold and silver mines in 1840; and probably thesn numbers are not far from being correct as regards the present time : Dols. & Peruvian mines 5,210,000 1,042,000 Bolivian mines 3,000,000 600,000 Chilian mines 2,600,000 500,000 10,710,000 2,142,000 [t must be recollected, however, that a very considerable quantity of gold and silver is exported by contraband traders, vithout being sent to the mint to be coined ; this may amount ,o one-fifth more, making the total equal to 2,570,000. Quicksilver is found in several parts of the Andes, but iin- 3ure ; in combination with sulphur forming the red sulphuret of mercury, commonly known as cinnabar. Near Azogue, 15 m. N. by E. Cuenca, the ore is found in an immensely ck bed of quartzose sandstone, containing fossil wood and asphaltum. Formerly the quicksilver mines of Mount Santa Barbara (12,300 ft. high), near Huanvelica, were in high re pute for their amazing productiveness : they were situated in a compact sandstone resting on a bed of magnesian limestone, nd were said to yield, on an average, 600,000 Ibs. of the metal annually. In 1789, however, the mine was destroyed through he ignorance of a stupid manager, who ordered its pillars of upport to be dug away ; and the roof consequently fell in, and closed it. Copper is found both in the E. and W. Cor dilleras of Peru ; but the E. chain is too far from the coast to admit of mines being profitably worked. The mines of Chili are the most valuable. They are situated chiefly in the N. provinces of Coquimbo and Copiapo, but also in the district of Arancana, and the total produce may average annually about 14,000,000 Ibs., which are exported to the U. States," China, and many parts of Europe. Tin also, wrought m Chili, forms an article of export; but lead and iron, though plentiful, are not wrought. Climate and Meteorology. Snow of course never falls be tween the tropics, except on the tops of very high mountains. In the Andes, near Quito, the lowest level of perpetual snow is 15,795 ft. above the sea; and from this it varies very irre gularly both N. and S. Under the 18th N. parallel, in Mexico, it descends to 14,772 ft., while on the S. it rises to 18,000 ft. in some of the N. Cordilleras of Bolivia, owing to the exten sive radiation from the plains and valleys beneath. Both Pentland and Pb ppig, however, found the snow line generally between 11 and 17 S. to be at an elevation of about 17,000 ft. It sinks to 13.800 ft. at Copiapo ; to 12,780 ft. near Val paraiso; it is only 8300 ft. at the S. extremity of the Chilian Andes ; and finally, is only at a height of 3400 ft. in the Straits of Magellan (Sommerville s Phys. Gcog., vol. ii. pp. 60, 61). Notwithstanding, however, the great number of snow-clad summits, glaciers are of rare occurrence in the Andes, being found only, and then of but small extent, in the narrow ra vines which furrow the sides of some of its giant summits. It is worthy of observation also, that Mr. Darwin, in crossing the Portillo in the Chilian Andes, found the Protococcus niva- lis or red snow, so well known from the account of Arctic navigators (Advent, and Leayle, vol iii. p. 394). On the W. side of the range, little or no rain falls, except at the S. ex tremity ; and scanty vegetation appears only on spots, or in small valleys, watered by streams from the mountains ; while, on the opposite slope, excessive heat and moisture combine to give the range a thick covering of tangled forest trees and dense brushwood. Currents of cold W. and N.W. winds blow nearly all the year from the ice-topped cordil- leras, on the plateau beneath, daily accompanied, during four months, by thunder, lightning, and snow storms. The ther mometer during the cold season (here called summer) ranges from 53 at midday, to 21 during the night; whereas, in winter, the mercury rarely falls, even in the night, below freezing point, and ascends at noon only to 48. The mean temperature, however, cannot be precisely determined ; for the heat, within a few hours, will often vary from 40 to 45, and the cold is the more sensibly felt from being usually accom panied by sharp, biting winds, so keen as to cut the skin on the face and hands. Currents of warm air are also occasionally found on the crest of the Andes ; they usually occur two hours after sunset, being both local and narrow, like the hot blasts in the Alps, not exceeding a few fathoms in width. They run parallel to each other, and so closely thr.t five or ANDES 150 ANDOAIN six of them may be passed in a few hours. They blow chiefly from S.S.W. to N.N.E. and are especially frequent in August and September (Tschudi s Peru, p. 305). Dr. Poppig, in cross ing the Chilian and Peruvian Andes, twice observed a curious kind of earth light, an indescribable reddish light, not seen iu winter or on sunny days, and ascribed by him to the dryness of the air, which is, from the same cause, singularly transpa rent and highly charged with electricity. My flannel waist coat, says Mr. Darwin, when rubbed in the dark, appeared as if it had been washed with phosphorus ; every hair on a dog s back crackled, and even the linen sheets and leathern straps of the saddle, when handled, emitted sparks. (Vol. iii. p. 398.) Vegetation. In the low, burning plains that flank the bases of the Andes reign the banana, cycas, plantain, Theobroma cacao- jatroplia, producing the cassava and manioc, whence comes tapioca ; the cotton tree, indigo and coffee plant, and sugar cane, all of which are extensively and profitably grown otherwise they will lie down and refuse to carry it, and their daily journey must not be more than eight or nine miles. The alpaca is smaller than the llama, and of more elegant shape, but differs little in habits and nature. Its fleece is peculiarly soft, and very long, sometimes exceeding four inches ; and of this wool the Indians make blankets and ponchos. It is also largely exported to Europe, and is now in great use as a material of dress. The guanaca is the largest of the American camelidaj, but has coarse wool, and is with difficulty trained as a beast of burden. Far more beautiful, however, than any other of the family is the vicuna, which, unlike the rest, has a beautifully soft, short, and curly wool ; it runs wild in the mountains, and is regularly hunted by the Indians. The forests of the warmer regions abound with marmosets, monkeys, and rabbits. Many varieties of serpents are found lurking in the grass, or beneath the dead leaves, several of which are more or less poisonous ; but the most deadly of all below the altitude of 4000 ft. Maize is likewise plentiful, j is a small viper, found in Peru, whose bite will destroy human and may be said to form the bread of the Peruvians; it is of t hrcc different kinds, and, according to Humboldt, is cultivated 7000 ft. above the sea. Within the same limits also are found, either wild or cultivated, the pine apple, pomegranate, shaddock, orange, lime, lemon, peach, apricot, the delicious cherimoya, butter-like palta, the granadilla, tuna, and pacay, together with olives, aji or pepper plants, tomatas, and sweet potatoes, and gum opal, copiiiba balsam, carana, dragon s blood, sarsaparilla, and vanilla. To these groups succeed, in life in two or three minutes. Bats are likewise exceedingly numerous, and of large size, some measuring nearly two feet across the extended wings. The vampire (cdostoma, D Orbigny) seeks its food in houses and stables ; and it is frequently a source of great annoyance to the horses and mules, the in jury being generally not so much owing to the loss of blood, as to the inflammation afterwards ensuing. The condor, a kind of large vulture, soars over the highest summits of the Andes, and makes its nest among the highest and least the humid and shaded clefts on the slopes of the Cordilleras, j accessible rocks. The turkey, vulture, and gallinazo are also the tree ferns, and cinchona or cascarilla, from which we ! frequently met with ; wild curassows, turkeys, parrots, and derive the febrifuge bark and quinine. Between the heights ; perroquets are common in the woods ; and there are many va- of 6000 and 9000 ft., is the climate best suited for the Euro- rieties of smaller birds. (Tschudi s Peru ; Voyage of the pcan cereals. Wheat, on the Peruvian and Colombian Andes, P>eagle Humboldt s Cosmos and Researches ; Pentland s Map will seldom form the ear lower than 4500 ft., or ripen higher i of La Lagnna di Titicaca; Sommervillc s Physical Geography; than 10,000 ft. of absolute height ; but barley and rye, being Jour. Eoy. Geo. Soc.} more able to bear the cold, rise 2500 ft. higher. The agri culture of the sierra is wholly consigned to the natives, who either labour on their own account, or on very low wages for the half castes or mestizoes : the ground is ploughed and sown in September and October, the crop being reaped in April or May. The barley, however, grows as fodder grass, even higher than lucerne, which is not found above 11,200 ft. To this may be added the quinoa (Clicnopodium Quinoa), a most useful production for domestic uses. In this region also, and a little above it, grow the potato (indigenous to Chili, and thence introduced into Europe), and its tuberose congeners, the maca, ulluco, oca, and mashua, all of which are pretty extensively used as food ; and here likewise grow the chick pea, broad bean, cabbage, and other European vegetables. Within the cereal limits are found the oak, elm, ash, and beech, which never descend lower than 5500 ft., and seldom rise higher than 9200 ft. above the sea. Above this level the larger forest trees, except the pine, begin to disappear ; and on the Andes of Quito, the escallonia mark the highest limit of trees, at a level of 11,600 ft. The bejarias, the highest of shrubs, terminate at 13,400 ft. above the sea, above which, in rich and beauteous verdure, rises the zone of the grasses, one vast savanna, extending over the immense mountain plateaux, and reflecting a yellow, almost golden tinge to the slopes of the Cordilleras. Where the naked trachyte rock pierces the grassy turf, and penetrates into those higher strata of air which are supposed to be less charged with car bonic acid, we meet only with plants of an inferior organiza tion, as lichens, lecideas, and the brightly- coloured, dust-like lepraria, scattered around in circular patches. Islets of fresh- fallen snow, varying in form and extent, arrest the last feeble traces of vegetable development, and to these succeeds the region of perpetual snow. (Humboldt s Cosmos, vol. i. p. 14.) Zoology. The fauna of the Andes is still very imperfectly known. Among the carnivorous animals, the principal are the jaguar, puma, ounce, ocelot, and wild cat. There are also hears, tapirs, racoons, wild hogs, foxes, and otters, with both red and roe deer. The characteristic animals of the Andes, however, are the llama and its different congeners the guan- aca, vicuna, and paco or alpaca. They are the chief beasts of burden on the Andes; find, especially in the silver mines, they are of the most important service, as they frequently carry the metal from the mines, in places where the declivities are so steep that neither asses nor mules can keep their footing. The burden carried by them should not exceed 125 Ibs., for I and Portugal.} ANDEVOURANTE, or AKDEVORONTO, a large vil. or tn., E. coast, Madagascar, 1. bank, and near the embouchure of a river of the same name ; lat. 19 S. ; Ion. 49 E. The town consists of about 500 houses, and the pop. about 2000. The inhabitants, both male and female, are of a lively and active disposition, neat and clean in their persons, and well clothed. Their houses, also, are more commodious than those in most other parts of the island. This prosperity they owe chiefly to the fertility of their soil, which produces rice in great abundance, and to an extensive intercourse with Europeans, who come there to purchase rice. AND1AKY, the name of two vils., W. Africa, Bondoo country; lat. 14 6 N.; Ion. 13 W. One of them is a large and thriving place, with neat houses. The people possess large flocks. In the environs palm trees abound. ANDKHOO, ANKKOUI, or ANKOI, a tn. Independent Tar- tary, cap. of a small khanat of the same name, N. slope of the Huzareh mountains, about 70 m. W. Balkh ; lat. 36 54 N. ; Ion. 66 23 E. The khanat of Andkhoo consists of a small territory 30 m. square, ruled by a petty chieftain, who is gener ally dependent on Cabool. The capital lies on the banks of a considerable stream, which rises among the Huzarehs, and is lost in the plains of Bokhara. It is advantageously situated on one of the great commercial routes between Bokhara and Afghanistan, but the district is scantily supplied with water. The number of houses is about 4000. Pop., composed of Soonee Mahometans, 25,000 to 30,000. ANDLAU, ANDELAHE, a tn. France, dep. Bas-llhin, 10 m. N.N.W. Schelestadt ; on the Andlau, foot of the Vosges mountains, at the entrance of a narrow valley enclosed be tween hills planted with vines. Potash is made here. There are also flour and bark mills, and a mill for spinning worsted. Pop. 1486. ANDO, or ANDOEN, one of the Loffodcn Islands, off the N.W. coast of Norway, 35 m. in length from S.E. to N.W., and about 10 in breadth; lat. (N. point) 69 20 N.; Ion. 16 8 E. (p.) ANDOAIN, a small tn. Spain, prov. Biscaya, 6 m. San Sebastian, on the Oria, and near the point where the road from San Sebastian falls into the great line of road from Bayonne to Madrid. It is one of the stopping places of the French mail. The church is spacious, and constructed chiefly of jasper, with curious painted statues of saints in wood. There s an iron foundry in the town. Pop. 1430. (Hughes Spain ANDORA 151 ANDREASBERG ANDORA, or MARINA D ANBORA, a tn. Sardinian States, territory Genoa, cap. dist. Albenga, on a hill near the sea, on the W. coast of the Gulf of Genoa ; lat. 43 57 N. ; Ion. 8 10 E.; 3 m. S.S.W. Alassio. Olives and vines are culti vated in the vicinity. ANDORNO CACCIORNA, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. Biella, 13 m. N.E. Ivrea, on the Cervo. It lies in a valley which contains 10 villages, and 12,000 inhabitants, the greater part of whom are engaged in the iron, copper, and lead mines of the neighbouring mountains. It is the birthplace of the painter Cagliari. ANDORRA LA VIEJA, the cap. of the neutral state of Andorra, 36 in. S. Foix in France, and 11 m. N. Urgel in Spain. It lies at the confluence of the torrents Embalire and Ordino, affluents of the Segre. Fop. 2800. ANDORRE, or ANDORRA [Arabic, AMarra, A place thick with trees], a small independent neutral state, comprised in three mountain valleys, in the N. of Catalonia in Spain, on the S. side of the Fyreuees, and S. of dep. Aricge in France, extend ing from N. to S. about 30 m., and somewhat less from E. to W., with an area of about 191 sq. in. This district, which is among the wildest in the Pyrenees, is watered by the Embalira, Ordino, and Os, affluents of the Segre, which is itself tributary to the Ebro. It comprises very little arable land, but exten sive pastures ; and the mountain sides are well clothed witli building timber, which is floated down the Segre and Ebro to Tortosa ; at Caldes, also, there are thermal springs. Andorra is governed by its own civil and criminal codes, and has its own courts of justice, the legislative power being vested in a council of 24 representatives, elected by the six communes into which this state is divided ; and presided over by a syndic or procurer-general, who holds his office for life. The laws are administered by two viziers or judges, one of whom is chosen by the republic of France, the other by the Bishop of Urgcl in Spain, and both of whom act on occasion as supreme military commanders. All the male inhabitants are liable to military service, and provided with firearms, each parish company being commanded by a captain and two sub alterns. The commerce, which is wholly free from impost, is confined to a few necessary articles ; and the Andorrians enjoy the additional privilege of annually receiving from France, duty free, a certain quantity of cattle, sheep, hogs, horses, and mules, salt fish, corn, and cloth. Iron is wrought in several mines, its manufacture into tools and implements being also conducted to some extent ; but this, and every other branch of industry, is carried on in the rudest and most primitive manner. The inhabitants, all of whom are strict E. catholics, are extremely simple and austere in their man ners, ignorant of, and indifferent to, the luxuries of cities ; their wealth consisting either of cattle and sheep, or a share in the iron mines, and very few being owners of any land beyond a small plot adjacent to their cottages. Their clothing, too, is equally simple and rough, composed of coarse brown woollen cloth of home manufacture. Each family has a chief, deter mined by primogeniture ; and these always choose their wives from families of equal rank with their own. The young men always reside with their parents until they marry ; and, unless married, they are allowed no share in the management of public affairs. Education is at a low ebb; but in each parish there is a school, in which the children are taught gratuitously. The common language of the people is a dialect of the Catalan. In person, the Andorrians are strong and well proportioned, almost unacquainted with disease, and nearly equally so with crime. The total pop. of the state is estimated at 18,000. This remarkable little republic owes its independence to Charlemagne, who gave the people the privilege of governing themselves with their own laws ; and these rights were further confirmed by his son, Louis le Debonnaire, who, nevertheless, ceded the spiritual superin tendence to the Bishop of Urgel. These rights have ever since been respected by the French, whom they accordingly hold in high esteem. ANDOVER, a parl. bor., market tn. and par. England, co. Hants. The TOWN is beautifully situate near the Anton, 1 1 m. N. by W. Winchester, and 63J m. S. W. by W. London, on the great road from the latter city to Salisbury. It con sists of three principal streets, is compactly built, well paved, lighted with gas, and amply supplied with water. The church, which was recently completed at a cost of nearly 30,000, is a spacious edifice, in the early English style. There are, be sides, four Dissenting chapels, a free grammar-school, national and British schools for boys and girls, an infant school, anil almshouses for a certain number of poor people of both sexes. The townhall is a large handsome building, with a Grecian front, supported by arches, under which a considerable corn market is held every Saturday. The chief business of the town consists in the manufacture of silk, which has superseded shalloon, the former staple ; and the timber trade, which was formerly carried on to a considerable extent, has for some time been discontinued. The town is governed by a mayor, four aldermen, and 12 councillors. It returns two members to the House of Commons. Eegistered electors (1850), 252. Three fairs annually, chiefly for horses, sheep, cheese, and leather. Near the town are several ancient encampments ; and some beautiful specimens of Koman pavement have been discovered in the neighbourhood. Andover gives the title of Viscount to the Earl of Suffolk. Area of par. 7G70 ac. Pop. (1841), 4941. ANDOVER, a tn., U. States, Massachusetts, co. Essex, 23 m. N.N.W. Boston ; beautifully situated on the r. bank, Merrimac. Its manufactures are considerable; but it is chiefly remarkable for two educational institutions Phillips Academy, founded in 1788; and the Andover Theological Seminary, founded in 1807. Each institution has about 130 students. The Theological Seminary is conducted by a pre sident and four professors, and the libraries contain about 18,000 volumes. A normal seminary, for the training of teachers, was founded at Andover in 1830. A railway from Wilmington to Haverhill passes through the township, which is about 7J m. from the former. Pop. in 1840, 5207. (U. States GUK.) ANDRA1X, or ANDKACIIE, a tn. Spain, isl. Majorca, W. side, 14 m. W. by S. Palma. The squares and streets are generally well constructed, clean, and spacious. In the town are a parish church, chapel, endowed school, and custom house of the fourth class. The male inhabitants are chiefly occupied in fishing and agriculture ; the women in spinning wool and flax. Pop. 4609. ANDRARUM, a tn. Sweden, prov. of, and 24 m. S.S.W. from Christianstad, 9 m. W. from the shores of the Baltic. The manufacture of alum is carried on here to a considerable extent, the annual product being about 4167 bushels. ANDRAVA BAY, Madagascar, E. coast, about 60 m. S.E. Cape Amber; lat. (Berry head) 12 56 48" S.; Ion. 49 56 30" E. (E.) It is about l m. in extent, of circular form, with an island in the middle of the entrance, having depths of from 4 to 6 or 9 fathoms on either side ; but reels project from the N. and S. extremities of these islands. This bay is open to N. and N.E. winds, but there appears to be ;ood shelter from E. winds, in 4 or 5 fathoms, at the S. ex tremity of the bay. ANDRE (ST.), with or without an affix, the name of numerous places in France, of which may be named: 1, An- dre-de-Cubzac (& t.), a tn., dep. Gironde, 12 m. N.N.E. Bor deaux, near the r. bank of the Dordogne. It has an ancient church, and some trade in grain, flour, wines, poultry, and cattle. Pop. 1554. 2, A tn., dep. llcrault, 19 m. N.W. Montpellier. It has a considerable trade in fruits and verdi gris. Pop. 2079. 3, A tn. and com., dep. Gard, 12 m. N.N.E. Vigan; among the mountains, on one of the branches of the Garden d Anduze. Pop. 1820. (Murray s Handbook for France.) ANDRE, or EMDRE (ST.) 1, A market tn. Hungary, co. Pesth, r. bank, Danube, 11 m. N. Buda. It has a K. catholic, and seven Greek churches, although the members of the latter do not exceed 1000. This originated in the immigration of the Servians under Leopold I., when each sect founded its own place of worship. The inhabitants are principally occu pied in the cultivation of the vine, from which they produce excellent wiiies. Pop. 3000. 2, An isl. in the Danube, opposite to the town, 14 in. in length, and 1 in breadth; remarkable for its great fertility. ANDREA (Si .), a vil. Naples, prov. Principato Ultra, 3 m. S.E. Conza. Pop. 2200. ANDREAS, a par. England, Isle of Man, 3 m. N.W. Ramsey. Pop. in 1841, 2217. ANDREASBERG, a tn. Hanover, in the mining dist. of, and 16 m. N.E. from Klausthal; 13 m. S.W. Elbiugerode ; on ANDKEEVA 152 ANDREWS (ST.) the declivity of the Andreasberg, at the S. foot of the Brocken, 1 ( J36 ft. above the sea. It is the second in importance of the mountain towns of the Upper llarz, and owes its origin to the valuable mines of iron, silver, lead, copper, cobalt, and arsenic, which exist in the neighbourhood, and wcie first opened at the commencement of the 16th century. The silver furnace, which stands about 1J in. S.W. Andernach, on the Sperr-Lutter, and at the foot of Mount Knicholz, produces annually 5273 silver marks (nearly 3500 sterling), 80 tons lead, and 3 tons copper. In 17 28, a piece of silver ore, .veighing 80 Ibs., was found in one of the mines near the town, and was preserved in the cabinet of natural history j at Gb ttingcn, till 1783, when it was stolen. The town is I divided by the market place into the upper and lower towns, and has been much improved since 1796, when, after a great fire, it was rebuilt, with much wider and more regular streets. Still, most of the houses are of wood, and have shingle roofs. The best buildings are the church, the towuhouse, the poor s house, and a school for boys and girls. Among the employ ments of the place may be mentioned the rearing of canary birds, by the miners, while their wives spin yarn, and work lace. The climate of Andreasberg is severe. In winter the snow lies long and deep. Considerable numbers of cattle are raised in the district; and though agriculture is not in an advanced state, crops of oats, barley, summer rye, and potatoes, are obtained. Top. 4300. ANDREEVA, or ENDEIU, a tn. Russia, gov. Circassia, principality of Koumuke, 40 in. S. Kizliar. It is the chief place of a Tartar district, loosely governed by chiefs really or nominally subject to Russia. There is some trade in the place, including a traffic in slaves. There are here some Moslem seminaries for Circassian youths. Pop. of tn. about 12,000. ANDEENOVIAN ISLANDS, a group of the Aleutian Islands (which see). ANDRES (SAN), a tn. Canary Islands, in a beautiful and healthy little valley in the E. of the island of Palma. A few of its houses are grouped together in the centre, but the remainder are scattered. It has a church, four hermitages, a school, and a mont-de-piiti ; and in the vicinity, wheat, barley, maize, sweet potatoes, legumes, archil, grapes, and other fruits, are raised. Pop. 2635. ANDRETTA, a small tn. Naples, prov. Principato Ultra, dist. of, and 5 m. E. from San Angelo de Lombard! ; prettily situated on a hill. Pop. 4609. ANDREW (ST.) 1, A par., S. Wales, co. Glamorgan, 5 m. S.W. Cardiff. Pop. in 1841, 497. 2, Andrew (St.) Minor, a par., S. Wales, Glamorgan, near Ogmore. Pop. 18. 3, A par. Ireland, co. Down; 12,907 ac. Pop. in 1841, 7586. 4, Andrew (St.) Jlketshall, a par. England, co. Suffolk, 3 m. S.E. Bungay. Pop. in 1841, 548. ANDREWS (ST.), an ancient city and seaport, Scotland, co. Fife, on the German Ocean, between the mouths of the Friths of Forth and Tay; lat. 56 21 N.; Ion. 2 45 W.; about 42 m. N.E. Edinburgh by sea, and about 31 m. direct. The city is agreeably situated on aflat table land, about 60 ft. above the level of the sea ; and, though presenting many un equivocal indications of decay, has a handsome appearance, the houses being all stone, generally well built, and of con siderable height. It contains three principal streets, diverging from the cathedral ; one of which, called South Street, is spacious, well paved, and about three- fourths of a mile long. It is well lighted with gas, and is tolerably supplied with water, which, however, though of good quality, requires, or at least is the better, to be filtered after rain. From the number of its spires, pinnacles, and large public buildings, and the numerous gardens and shrubberies that surround and intermingle with its ancient walls and edifices, it presents, when viewed from a little distance, a singularly pleasing arid picturesque aspect. It contains a number of interesting re mains of antiquity, the principal of which are the ruins of the cathedral, situated at the E. end of the town. This once magnificent structure, founded in 1 160, was destroyed at the Reformation. When entire, it was 370 ft. long, 65 ft. broad, with a nave or transept 180 ft. long. Its style was a mixture of Saxon and Gothic. The roof was covered with sheets of copper. A lofty square tower, and a portion of a chapel standing close by the ruin, are believed to be the most ancient remains of ecclesiastical architecture in Scotland. The castle or Episcopal palace, situated on an eminence overhanging tho sea, was founded by Bishop Roger about 1200, and was ori ginally a place of great strength. There are a number of ST. ANDREWS CASTLE. Fi etch bj 1) O. Hill, USA. other ruins, of less note, in various parts of the town ; and many ancient edifices, no longer in existence, are spoken of by historians and topographers. The University of St. An drews, the oldest in Scotland, was established by Bishop Wardlaw in 1413. It consisted at one time of three colleges, instituted at different periods St. Salvador s, in 1455; St. Leonard s, in 1512; and St. Mary s, in 1537; but in 1748 the first two were united, and the buildings of St. Leonard s con verted into dwellings. It has 34 bursaries, whose aggregate value is about 1000 a year, divided among 94 students. The principal of St. Mary s College must, as in the case of Edinburgh University, be a clergyman, as he lectures on systematic theology. This institution is appropriated exclu sively to the study of theology, and has seven bursaries ; aggregate value, 200; enjoyed by 17 individuals. The United College, which stands in a different part of the town, and is, excepting as regards a few cases, an entirely separate and distinct establishment, is appropriated to the study of lan guages, philosophy, and science. There is a library containing 45,000 volumes, common to both colleges. The two institu tions have, together, 13 professors. Next in importance to the older colleges, as an educational institution, is the Madras School, founded and endowed by Dr. Bell of Madras, a native of the town, who bequeathed the sum of 45,000 for the noble purpose of affording gratuitous instruction to the poor, which is the principal object of the establishment, although small fees are taken from those who can afford to pay them. This school is attended (March, 1850) by upwards of 800 young persons, of both sexes. There are also two boarding or day schools for ladies, an Episcopal chapel, Free church, Burgher, Independent, and Baptist places of worship, a subscription library, and two reading rooms. The harbour, which is on the E. side of the town, is a very indifferent one, being difficult of access, and dry at low water. Some attempts have been made lately to improve it, but with no good result. There is no trade in the town, and no manufactures worthy of notice. It is the place of residence, however, both permanently and temporarily, of a number of genteel families of limited means, who have been induced to resort to it on account of the cheap ness of living, and of education; its society is thus, in general, more refined than is usually to be met with in other towns of similar size. St. Andrews has been long famous for the practice of the old Scottish game of golf, for which its downs are well adapted. Between 8000 and 9000 golf balls are manufactured in the city yearly, about half of which are exported, the other half being used on the spot. St. Andrews is of great antiquity ; and its history, from a remote period, is blended with the civil and ecclesiastical annals of the kingdom. Its origin is uncertain; but it was constituted a royal burgh by David I., in 1140, having, however, been a place of religious celebrity long prior to that period. From the beginning of the 12th ANDREWS (Sx.) 153 ANDUJAR century, till the Reformation, it gradually increased in ecclesi astical dignity and importance, and finally became the metro politan see of Scotland. Previous to the Reformation, which arrested its career of prosperity, it was one of the most popu lous towns in Scotland. After that event it rapidly decayed, the revenues of its religious establishments being alienated to different purposes. This ancient city has been the scene, at various periods, of many remarkable events, and is connected with the histories, more or less intimately, of a long series of the most remarkable men of their respective times. It was here that the Scottish Parliament met to swear allegiance to Edward I., after the subjugation of Scotland; and here the same body assembled a few years afterwards, to support the claims of Robert Bruce to the Scottish throne. It was here that the earlier martyrs to the reformed religion, including Patrick Hamilton and George Wishart, suffered death; a fate which the celebrated George Buchanan barely avoided, by escaping from the castle of St. Andrews, in which he was confined, and in which the notorious Cardinal Beaton was shortly afterwards murdered. St. Andrews was the principal place in Scotland to which the first printed English New Testaments were secretly sent, in 1526, from Cologne, whither Tyndale, the translator, had fled. In 1645, the Scottish Parlia ment held its meetings here; and, amongst other proceedings, condemned to death Sir Robert Spottiswood, son of the arch bishop of that name, and three other gentlemen who had been taken prisoners at the battle of Philiphaugh, and who were afterwards executed in the principal street of the city. Four years afterwards, namely, in 1679, James Sharp, Archbishop of St. Andrews, was murdered on Magus Moor, near the W. extremity of the parish, by a party of Covenanters. Amongst the earlier persons of celebrity connected with St. Andrews, by residence or otherwise, were Andrew Wynton, author of a poetical chronicle of Scotland; and John Major, author of a history of Scotland, and of various theological works much esteemed in their time. The more distinguished names between the Reformation and Revolution, are those of Spottiswood, George Buchanan, Andrew Melville, Samuel Rutherford, Robert Blair, and James Gregory. Since the era of the Revolution, the more celebrated names are those of Thomas Halyburton, Principal Hadow, Principal Tulli- doph, Professor Wilkie, Principal Watson, Professor Baron, Dr. Wilson, Dr. James Playfair, Dr. George Hill, Dr. Adam Ferguson, Dr. Andrew Bell, and the late Dr. Chalmers. With few exceptions, all these eminent persons were con nected with the university, and all distinguished by their literary attainments. St. Andrews unites with the two An- struthers, Crail, Cupar, Kilrenny, and Pittenweem, in return ing a member to the House of Commons. The PARISH is about 10 m. in length, with an average breadth of about 2 m. ; the area comprehending a space of between 17 and 18 m. It has about 6 m. of sea coast. The ground nowhere rises to any great elevation, nor does it present any features of particular interest. Pop. of burgh in 1841, 3653; of par., exclusive of burgh, 1449. ANDREWS (ST.) 1, A seaport tn. New Brunswick, cap. Charlotte co., at the N.E. extremity of Passamaquoddy Bay, on a narrow slip of low land fronting the sea, 60 m. W. by S. St. John, and 3 m. from the shores of the U. States ; lat. (S. point, light) 45 4 18" N. ; Ion. 67 3 W. (E.) It con sists of two principal streets, which run parallel to each other, and of several smaller crossing them at right angles. The houses are all of a substantial and respectable appearance. There are several churches, a courthouse, a jail, a grammar school, a chamber of commerce, an agricultural and emigrant society, a savings bank, a Bible society, a barracks, and many handsome private buildings. It is conveniently situated for commerce, and especially for the fishing trade, which is car ried on here to a large extent. The lumber trade and ship building are also actively prosecuted. It is abundantly supplied with provisions of every description. The harbour is commodious, but rather difficult of access. Pop. about 7000. 2, A vil. Prince Edward s Island, British N. America, S.E. part of the island, at the mouth of the little river Mon tague. The inhabitants of this and the neighbouring settle ments, chieily emigrants from the W. of Scotland and the Hebrides, are principally employed in shipbuilding and in the exportation of timber. The soil around is good, and yields large crops of wheat, barley, &c. VOL. I. ANDRIA, a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Bari, 30 m. W.N.W. Bari. It is built on a plain ; is the seat of a bishop ; and has a fine cathedral, founded 1046, by Peter Normauno, Count of Trani. It possesses also a college and three monts- de-piete; its supply of water is very deficient; and it has a good trade in almonds. Pop. in 1842, 21,852. ANDRO [anc. Andros], an isl. Grecian Archipelago, cap. same name, about 25 m. long, and 6 or 7 m. in breadth ; lat. (Mount Kovari, W. side) 37 50 1" N. ; Ion. 24 50 5" E. (R.) It is in general mountainous, rising in the centre to the height of 3200 ft. ; but it has many fruitful valleys. It is well watered, and altogether one of ttie richest and most produc tive islands of the Archipelago. The inhabitants rear cattle, bees, and silkworms; and cultivate wheat, barley, vines, olives, oranges, citrons, and pomegranates ; the produce of most of these forming the materials of a pretty extensive traffic. In Andro or Castro, the capital, situated on a hill on the E. coast, there are manufactures of silk and carpets ; the former constituting the staple commodity of an active com merce. The town, which is defended by a strong castle, has a large port ; suited, however, only for small vessels, and inferior to that of Gaurio [anc. Gaurium], on the W. coast. It was for a considerable period subject to the Turks ; but since the revolution, has formed, once more, a part of the kingdom of Greece. Pop. of isl. 15,000; of tn. 5000. (Guibert, Diet. Gco. et Stat.) ANDROS ISLANDS, a group of islands belonging to the Bahamas, lying between lat. 23 41 and 25 10 N. ; Ion. 77 30 and 78 32 W. The passages between these islands are intricate and dangerous. The principal island, Andros, which gave its name to the others, is about 70 m. long by 10 broad, at its broadest part. The interior of the largest of these islands is composed of extensive salt marshes and fresh water swamps, in which are islands valuable for their timber ; consisting mostly of cedar of superior quality. The sea board only is habitable during the summer months ; owing to the myriads of mosquitoes and other insects that infest the low ground. The total amount of waste land in the Andros Islands amounts to 1.046,803 ac. In Andros Island there is a school, which was attended, in 1847, by 52 pupils; 27 boys, and 25 girls. The progress of the scholars is said to be slow. There is a teacher of needlework attached to the school. The soil is indifferent ; but, when carefully cultivated, yields fair crops of cotton and coffee, which are exported to Europe. It sends a member to the House of Assembly of the Bahamas. Pop. 759, nearly all coloured. ANDRO Y, a territory, Madagascar, occupying the S. extremity of that island. It consists of two countries, called, respectively, the country of the Ampates and that of the Caremboules. The former is flat and covered with wood, presenting, however, extensive intervals of excellent pastur age, on which great numbers of wild cattle of a small size feed. The Ampates produce large quantities of silk and cotton, and make articles of commerce of the more valuable barks of trees, and of apples. Water is so extremely scarce in this district, as to be considered one of the most precious of commodities, and, when obtained, is treasured up accord ingly. Nature, however, has in part compensated the scarcity of this necessary of life, by furnishing the natives with a kind of root, the internal parts of which somewhat resemble a water melon. But not being in sufficient abundance to supply both the people and their cattle, the latter suffer severely, being always on a stated and very stinted allowance of water. The principal village, called Fangahe, consists of about 100 houses or more, with a pop. of about 600, and is well fortified. The country, altogether, has a deserted appearance, there being few villages, and all of them small. The country of the Careinboulcs is much less fertile than the other portion of the district, and the inhabitants are little better than savages. (Descartes, Hist, et Geo. de Madagascar.) ANDRYCHOW, ANDKYCHAU, or ANDRZEIOW, atn. Aus tria, prov. Galicia, 200 m. W. Lemberg. It has considerable manufactures of damasks and other drapery, and important mines of sulphur, yielding annually about 9132 cwt. Pop. 3000. ANDUJAR, or ANDUXAR, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 20 m. N.W. from Jaen, at the foot of the sierra Morena, in a wooded plain, r. bank, Guadalquivir, which is here crossed by an old dilapidated bridge. Its tolerably regular and cheerful-looking houses form irregular streets ANDUZE INGERMANLANO and squares, paved with stones ; in fragments of which are to he met various metals, marble of divers kinds, and some .joralines and rock crystal, evidencing the proximity of a district rich in such productions. The finest building in the town is the municipal chambers; though the abattoir and the storehouse are not wanting in elegance. Andujar like wise possesses five churches, several convents, a Jesuit theo logical seminary, and six primary schools ; an infirmary, a foundling hospital, an hospital for old men, and one for old women. A fine road lined with trees leads to the river, and in the vicinity are several alaincdas. The manufacture of earthenware, soap, leather, tiles, and bricks, and various sorts of coarse woollens, is carried on to a limited extent ; but agri culture is the principal occupation of the people, who raise wheat, barley, legumes, sumach, and a few fruits ; produce exquisite oil, and rear cattle and bees. Some export trade is done in grain, fruit, and cattle, and in immense numbers of porous pitchers, bottles, and jars, for the purpose of cooling water. It is an unhealthy town, experiencing great extremes of heat and cold. Pop. 9353. (Madoz.) ANDUZE [Latin, Andusia], a tn. France, dep. Gard, 26 m. N.W. Nismes, r. bank, Gardon; from the violent over flows of which it is protected by a strong dike forming a fine quay, as well as an agreeable terrace and promenade ; near the middle of which the river is crossed by a stone bridge. The town lies at the foot of the Cevennes, steep menacing- looking rocks on the one side, and hills planted with vines and olives on the other. It is on the whole ill built ; its environs, which are cultivated like a garden, are delightful. The chief articles produced are silk thread, hats, bonnets, and stockings, all of silk ; serge, drabs, swanskins, earthenware, leather, and glue. In the vicinity there is a beautiful grotto with stalactites. The majority of the inhabitants are Protest ants. Pop. 4412. ANEGADA, one of the Virgin Islands, W. Indies, be longing to Britain, 90 m. N.E. Porto Eico; lat. (W. point) 18 45 N. ; Ion. 64 2 1 W. (R.) Its greatest length is 1 m. ; greatest breadth, 4 m. The surface is, for the most part, a dead level ; but on the S.E. side the ground rises gradually to the height of about 60 ft. The whole N. side is exposed to an impetuous sea. The island contains numerous large salt ponds, which, when undergoing evaporation during a long course of dry weather, yield an exceedingly offensive effluvia. Great quantities of salt are subsequently obtained from the ponds. The island produces provision crops, and some cotton ; and has great abundance of fresh water in almost every part, even in the immediate vicinity of the sea, and surrounded by salt ponds. On the N. side of the island there is a range of shelf- holes, varying from 2J to 6 fathoms in depth, and from 10 to 25 inches wide, called the Wells, filled with fresh water (Schomburgk s Itemarlcs on Anegada, in London Geo. Jour., vol. ii. p. 159). There is a considerable trade, besides, in underwood, rendered valuable by the great quantity of gum it contains. But the chief dependence of the inhabitants is on the wreck of vessels, for which the island has an unhappy celebrity. The scene of these disasters is a reef extending from 10 to 12 m. in a S.E. and S. direction from the E. ex tremity of the island. The total number of vessels lost on this fatal reef, since 1811, is 67 ; of which 21 were American, 17 AV. Indian, 15 Spanish, 9 British, 2 French, 2 Swedish, and 1 Portuguese. ANET [German, Ins; Latin, Insida], 1, A vil. Switzer land, can. of, and 16 m. W. by N. from Bern. It is built upon an eminence 4 m. N. Lake Morat, 3 m. N.E. Lake Neufchatel, and 2 m. S. that of Bienne ; whence the name Insula [the island], from its position between the lakes; the whole sur rounding district was formerly called Inselgau [the island district or meadow]. Anet commands a fine view of the sur rounding scenery, and also of the distant Alps. The inhab itants cultivate the vine ; and have a considerable trade in wine and corn. Pop. 1150. 2, A tn. and com. France, dep. Eure-et-Loir, 9 m. N.N.E. Dreux. It is situated in a highly picturesque valley, watered by the Eure, and contains the ruins of the superb castle built, in 1552, by Henry II. for Diana of Poitiers ; and demolished in 1792, during the fury of the French Involution ; when part of the facade was re moved to Paris, and re-erected at the Ecole des Beaux Arts. Anet has some trade in grain, wine, and fodder; and in the neighbourhood are iron works and paper mills. Pop. 1409. ANEY, a par. and vil. Ireland, co. Limerick ; 9248 ao contains some interesting ruins. Pop. in 1841, 4939. ANGAR. See ANGAUM. ANGARA, a large river, Siberia, which issues from Lake Baikal at lat. 51 30 N. ; Ion. 102 45 E., and, passing tho tn. of Irkutsk, pursues a N. and W. course for about 750 m., when it is joined by the river Tchadobetz in lat. 57 30 N. ; Ion. 97 E., at which point its name is changed to the Tun- guska, by which it is known for about 320 in., when it falls into the Yenisei at lat. 57 10 N. ; Ion. 92 E. It is navi gable, but much obstructed by rapids. The scenery on its banks, particularly on the left, is described as extremely picturesque ; the latter being adorned by magnificent forests of cedar and other trees. Another small stream of the same name falls into Lake Baikal at its E. extremity. ANGARAES, a prov. Peru. See HUANCAVELICA. ANGAUM, or ANGAK, an isl. at the entrance of the Persian Gulf; lat. 26 37 N. ; Ion. 55 54 E. (R.) It is from 5 to 8 in. long, and contains several fresh water wells, although formerly believed to have none. Extensive garden ground, and ruins of houses in different parts of the island, would indicate its having once been a more important and more flourishing place than it is now. At the N. part of the island are the remains of a considerable town, with 18 tanks or reservoirs for holding water ; about half of them are still arched over, and lined with brick, but filled with clay and sand. Wild goats are numerous. ANGAZIJA, the native name of the isl. of Comoro. See COMORO ISLANDS. ANGEJA, a tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Douro, dist. Estarreja, 23 m. S. Oporto, on the Caima, at the extremity of an extensive fertile plain. It has a large church with aisles ; and a monthly corn and cattle market. Pop. 1560. ANGELES LOS, a tn. Chili, prov. Concep9ion, 90 m. E. the town of that name, and about 15 m. N. the Biobio river ; lat. 33 1 54" S. ; Ion. 71 41 30" W, Streets wide and regular. ANGELN, or ANGLEN [Latin, Anglia Minor], part of the duchy of Schleswig, Denmark, included between the river Sley and the Gulf of Flensborg. The district is named from the ancient Angli or Angles, a German nation and tribe of the Suevi, who at a very early period migrated to Denmark. It is said that their assistance having been asked by the Britons against the Scots and Picts, a number of them passed over, and, in course of time, gave the name of Angles (English) to the inhabitants, and of Anglenlande (England) to the country. The present inhabitants are distinguished among the Danes for bodily strength, independence of spirit, in dustry, and morality. Angeln is partly under good cultiva tion, but its roads are bad. Pop. about 30,000. ANGELO (SAN), the name of several towns and villages, Italy : 1 , A tn. Austrian Lombardy, on the river Lambro, 7 m. S.AV. Lodi. Pop. 6000. 2, A vil. Austrian Lombardy, llm. N.E. Padua. Pop. 2200. 3, San Angela in Vado, a vil. Eoman States, on the Mctaura; 12 m. S.W. Urbino ; the seat of a bishop. It has some woollen manufactures. Pop. 2500. 4, San Angela de Lombardi, a tn. Naples, prov. Prin- cipato Ultra ; 22 m. E. Avellino ; the seat of a bishop. It has two churches and a college. In 1664, it was nearly destroyed by an earthquake. Pop. 6400. 5, San Angela Fasanella, a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Citra, 20 m. S.S.E. Campagna. Pop. 2688. 6, San Angela di JBrvlo, a tn. Sicily, 5 m. W. Patti. Pop. 3641. ANGERA, or ANGLIERA [Latin, Angleria], an anc. tn. Venetian Lombardy, cap. dist. of same name, E. shore of Lago Maggiore, prov. of, and 25 m. W. from Como. It is tolerably built, with a castle, church, and townhouse. Pop. of tn. 1963; of dist. 7598. ANGERBURG, a tn. Prussia, cap. of its circle, prov. E. Prussia, on the Angerap, 60 m. S.E. Konigsberg. It has a handsome church, good schools, linen and woollen manu factures, a considerable traffic in wood and fish, and four annual fairs and cattle markets. The extensive Lake Anger- burg or Mauer, famous for its eels, is in the neighbourhood. Pop. 3150. ANGERMANLAND, an anc. prov. Sweden, divided into N. and S. Angermanland, comprehending 45 parishes, and now forming part of the liin or district of Westcr-Nordland (which see). ANGERMANN-A 155 ANGLESEY 1NGERMANN-A, or ANOERMANN-ELF, a river, Sweden, which rises in Lappmarken, not far from the borders of Nor way, and at first consists of two branches, which unite in lat. 64 50* N. Thereafter, proceeding in a S.E. direction, it becomes the principal river, and gives its name to the district of Angermanland, and, forming a considerable estuary, falls into the Gulf of Bothnia, N. of Hernosand. Its chief affluents are the Fiellsjo and the Sb dra Adals, both of which it receives on its right bank. It has a course of about 150 m., and is navigable for 60 m. ANGERMLJNDE, a tn. Prussia, prov. Brandenburg, cap. circle of same name, on the Lake Miinde, 42 m. N.E. Berlin. It contains three churches ; and has manufactures of hats, cloth, woollen stuffs, and tobacco. Pop. 3607. ANGERS, a large anc. and important city, France, cap. dep. Main-et-Loire, in the former prov. of Anjou, of which it was the capital ; situated in a fertile plain, on both sides the Mayenne, a little below its junction with the Sarthe, and about 5 m. above its embouchure into the Loire; 150 in. S.W. Paris. It stands in the form of an amphi theatre, on the summit and declivity of a steep hill, and is divided by the Mayenne into the higher and lower town ; the city proper being on the 1. bank of the river, while a considerable suburb, termed the Doutre, occupies the r. bank. In the old quar ters of the town, the streets are narrow and crooked, and many of them so steep as to be in accessible to carriages. The houses generally are of wood, covered with slate. Many of them also are either faced with or built of slate ; a circumstance which gives the town so dark and sombre a hue, as to have obtained for it the surname of Black Angers. The two prin cipal edifices are the castle and the cathedral. The former, the ancient residence of the Dukes of Anjou, stands on a steep rock, the base of which is washed by the Mayenne. It consists of an immense parallelogram, surrounded by high walls flanked with 18 large round towers, which, bulged toward the top and bottom, and narrowed in the middle, and bnilt of black slate, intersected horizontally by stripes of white, have a very singular appearance. It is now used as a prison, barrack, and powder magazine. The cathedral, finished in 1240, stands on an eminence in the centre of the town, and is in the form of a Latin cross. Its portal, which is richly decorated in the Romanesque style, is surmounted by two lofty spires, which have each a height of 225 ft. The exterior consists of a single nave without aisles, and two transepts. The former, one of the largest in France, is, in cluding the choir, 300 ft. long, 53 ft. wide, and 110 ft. high ; the latter have each a length of 40 ft., and nearly the same width. The windows of painted glass, of the richest colours, and as ancient as the building itself form one of its principal ornaments. Among the objects worthy of notice in Angers may be mentioned the picture gallery, chiefly furnished by the modern French school ; the museum ; the tower of St. Aubin, now converted into a shot tower; and the extensive boulevards, planted with trees, and lined with elegant houses, occupying the site of the old walls of the town, and commu nicating with the Champ de Hars, which forms a spacious promenade. The manufactures of Angers are numerous, and consist chiefly of sailcloth, camlet, serges, handkerchiefs, hosiery, hats, leather, worsted and cotton twist, leathern goods, starch, &c., besides establishments for bleaching wax, and sugar refineries. A considerable trade is carried on in corn, wines, brandy, flax, hemp, wax, honey, flour, and dried fruits. In the neighbourhood are extensive slate quarries, from which INGEBS. From slates are exported to the value of 62,500 annually. The principal pit, called Le grand carrcau, about 4 m. from the town, is nearly 400 ft. deep, and occupies an area of more than 4000 yards. Angers is surrounded by numerous and exten sive nursery gardens and vineyards, and in the neighbour hood are mines both of coal and iron. The markets are well stocked with provisions, but there is a great deficiency of good water. Angers is the see of a bishop, suffragan of Tours, and the seat of a Cour royale, for the departments of Main-et-Loire, Sarthe, and Mayenne ; of a prefecture, and of several important law courts. It has an Academic Universitaire, a royal college or high school, an asylum for the deaf and dumb, a diocesan theological seminary, a secondary school of medicine, and a public library of 26,000 volumes, with some curious old MSS. ; a botanic garden, and an agricultural society. It has also five hospitals, one of which, the hospital of St. John, on the Doutre side of the river, is said to have been built by Henry II. of England. There was formerly a military college here, at which Lord Chatham and the Duke of Wellington received part of their education ; but, about the end of last century, it was re moved to Saumur, and the building was con verted into cavalry bar racks. The university of Angers, which was founded in 1246, and long continued to be one of the most renowned universities in Europe, was destroyed at the Revolution, as was also a royal academy of belles lettres, establish ed by Louis XIV., in 1685. The castle was surprised by the Hu guenots in 1585; arid, in 1793, the city was attacked by the Vendean army, 90,000 strong, when it became the scene of several sanguinary conflicts. In the siege that followed, the inhabitants endured many privations. An appalling accident happened here on April 16, 1850. While a regiment of French infantry were passing along the suspen sion bridge across the Basse Maine, the bridge suddenly gave way, when the greater portion of the men were precipitated into the river, and between 200 and 300 drowned. A rail way, connecting Paris with Angers, has been completed. The population was, in 1670, about 50,000. After the revocation of the edict of Nantes, it gradually declined ; and, in 1789, before the Revolution, was only 27,596. Since 1815 its prosperity has revived. Pop. in 1846, 36,392. ANGERSLEIGH, or LEIGH-MILITIS, a par. England, co. Somerset; 4 m. S.W. Taunton. Pop. in 1841, 42. ANGHIARI [anc. Castrum Angulare], a tn. and com. Italy, in Tuscany, prov. of, and 8 m. E. by N. from Arezzo ; on the slope of a hill, in a well-watered, fertile district, near the 1. bank of the Sovara. It has a church and municipal offices. Pop., tn. and com. 6358. (Dizio. Univ. Italia.) ANGHIARI, a tn. Austrian Lombardy, prov. Verona, r. bank, Adige, 3 m. N.W. Legnago. Pop. 1450. ANGICOS, a tn. Brazil, prov. Rio Grande-do- Norte, near the Conchas, about 30 m. from its mouth. It has a church, an initiatory school, a townhall, and a prison. Its inhabit ants are engaged in the cultivation of cotton, rice, French beans, and mandioca, and in carrying on a little commerce in the first of these products. Pop., tn. and dist. 2000. ANGTSTRI, a small isl. Gulf of ^Egina, 5 m. S.W. the island of that name ; lat. 37 42 N. ; Ion. 23 20 E. : about 3 m. in length, and 1 m. in breadth. ANGLE, a par. and vil., S. Wales, Pembroke, nuar the entrance to Milford Haven. Pop. in 1841, 388. ANGLESEY, an isl. and co. England, N. Wales, in the Irish Sea, separated from the mainland by the Mcnai Strait. It is 20 m. long, and 17 m. broad, and contains 74 parishes; ANGMERING 156 ANGOSTA Rrcn, 271 Bq. m., nr 173, -MO ac. It is divided into three can- trefs, and each of these into two cwmwds, equivalent to the English hundreds. The surface of the island is comparatively flat, and the climate, though milder than that of the adjoining coast, is unfavourable to the growth of trees. There are no streams of any importance, but the coast affords some natural harbours, the principal of which are at Beaumaris and Holy- head. The soil is various. The chief agricultural products are oats and barley; but wheat, rye, potatoes, and turnips, are also grown. Cattle and sheep are the staple productions of the island ; about 8000 of the former, and 5000 to 7000 of the latter being annually exported. Of minerals, Anglesey contains copper, lead, and silver ore, limestone, marble, coal, and granite. The copper mines at Parys and Mona (see AMLWCH), once so celebrated and productive, have now im mensely decreased in value. The inhabitants carry on no manufactures but those of coarse cloths, &c., sufficient for their own use. The principal road through the island com mences at the Menai Strait, which is crossed by a magnificent suspension bridge, 580 ft. between the piers, and 100 ft. above high water mark, allowing the largest vessels which navigate the Strait to sail under it. The great Britannia Tubular Bridge, for the conveyance of railway trains across the Menai Strait, was opened for the first time, with great ceremony, on March 5, 1849. (For a more full account of this extraordi nary work of art, see MENAI STRAIT.) The chief towns are Beaumaris, Holyhead, Llangefni, and Amlwch, which unite in returning a member to Parliament, while the county also returns a member. Beaumaris is the returning station for both. On the coast are several smaller islands, the chief of which are Holyhead, and Priestholm or Puffin Island. Anglesey [anc. Mono] was successively under the dominion of the Britons, Romans, W. Saxons, Normans, and English. Its druidical relics, which are almost its only antiquities, suffi ciently indicate the religion of its original inhabitants. Pop. in (1851), 57,327. ANGMERING, a par. England, co. Sussex; area, 3640 sc.; 3 m. E.N.E. Little Hampton. Pop. in 3841, 1002. ANGOLA, a Portuguese colonial prov., W. coast, Africa, cap. Loanda. This province comprehends all the Portuguese commercial entrepots and factories in Angola, Benguela. and Congo. Pop. estimated at 400,000, of whom 12, 000 are whites. ANGOLA, formerly DOKGO, or AMBONDE, a country on the AV. coast of Africa, commencing about lat. 8 20 S., and extending to the river Coanza, in lat. 9 20 S. ; Ion. 14 to 19 E. Along the coast, the country is flat and sterile, but mountainous in the interior, though nowhere attaining any great elevation. It is copiously watered by various rivers, with their numerous tributaries ; amongst the former are the Coanza, the Bengo, and the Danda. Situated near the equa tor, the heat is very great, but not so oppressive as in other places of the same latitude, being tempered by the trade winds. It is on this account considered more healthy than any other part of tropical W. Africa. The dry and rainy seasons, into which the year is usually divided in these regions, do not seem to maintain the same regularity in Angola, neither the periods of their occurrence nor their duration being correct ly ascertained. The nights are cool, and the dews sufficiently copious to promote vegetation. The soil of the plains on the sea shore is, as already stated, poor and meagre, and incap able of cultivation, but in the interior it is extremely fertile, yielding, in extraordinary abundance, and almost spontane ously, rice, millet, sugar canes, mandioca, yams, potatoes, and nearly every kind of tropical fruit known. In various parts of the country, iron is found ; in others, gold and copper ; but the produce has hitherto been trifling. Here are met with specimens of nearly all the known wild animals of Africa, in cluding lions, tigers, hyenas, elephants, rhinoceroses, hippopo tami, &c. The birds and reptiles are also the same with those found in other tropical regions, including several exceedingly venomous kinds of serpents. The waters on its coasts and in its rivers also teem with animal life, the former with whales, sharks, dolphins, &c., and the latter with formidable croco diles, and numbers of other creatures little known to Euro peans. Amongst the native useful animals are hares, rabbits, antelopes, stags, goats, and hogs ; the larger domestic animals, the cow, horse, and ass, have been imported from Europe. Angola has long possessed an infamous notoriety for the extent of its slave trade, which still appears to be as active as ever, notwithstanding all the efforts that have been matTe for its suppression, many thousands of slaves being shipped annu ally to Brazil. In 1840, no fewer than 70 to 75 vessels, each capable of carrying from 300 to 500 slaves, traded-to this part of the coast, each vessel performing four or five voyages in the year. The natives, though black, are distinguished from the other negro races by their superior physical conformation, being well limbed and regular featured, with a marked general resemblance to the Portuguese, of whom great numbers are settled here. Besides the slave trade with Brazil, Angola carries on a large traffic with Lisbon in ivory and other native products ; the imports from the latter in return are chiefly wine, brandy, oil, pork, and other provisions, with silks, linens, cottons, woollens, earthenware, hardware, &c. The central or principal town of Angola is the Portuguese town of St. Paul dc Loando, on the coast, lat. 8 48 S.; Ion. 13 8 E., in which the Portuguese have a garrison, consisting of about 600 men, mostly convicts, with a corps of cavalry. At one time the force maintained at Loando consisted of a regiment of the line, 1000 strong, 300 cavalry, and 200 artillery. The coast of Angola was first discovered in 1486, by the Portuguese, who soon after began to form settlements on the Zaire, and at various points S. of that river. They still occupy the country, having a number of forts and commercial establishments at different places, in some instances extend ing many hundred miles into the interior, where the Portu guese colonists and natives meet for the purposes of trading. The religion is Fetichism. Pop. estimated at 2,000,000. ANGOLLOLA, a tn. Abyssinia, kingdom of Slioa, 24 m. N.W. Ankobar; lat. 9 W N. ; Ion. 39 37 E. It lies at the confluence of two rivers flowing N.W., one of which, named Chia-Chia, is a considerable stream. Like other Abys sinian towns, it resembles a large village; and consists of circular huts arranged on two eminences, one of them being reserved by the king for his own use ; on it lie has erected for himself and his officers about 500 huts, surrounded and de fended by six rows of palisades. Angollola is a new town, commenced in 1834, by King Sahle-Sallassi. (Harris s High lands of Ethiopia; Hericourt, Voy. dans le Roy. de Cfioa) ANGORA, or ENGOUR [anc. Ancyra], a tn. Asiatic Turkey, 215 m. E.S.E. Constantinople; lat. 40 29 N. ; Ion. 33 20 E. (c.) It is surrounded with ruinous walls, and contains an old dilapidated castle. It is divided into 84 dis tricts, each having its mosque or ja mi. There are 17 or 18 khans, three hama ms, and a market place, once handsome, but now in ruins; considerable remains of Byzantine architecture belonging to the ancient city, and a few relics of earlier times, both Greek and Roman. Some of the latter have been thought to be remnants of the Monumentum Ancyranum, raised in honour of the Emperor Augustus, who much embellished the ancient city. Angora is celebrated for the long-haired goats bred in its vicinity, called by the Arabs the ckamal or camel goat, meaning silky or soft. The hair is about 8 inches long, and is shorn twice a year. All the animals of this region are long haired, especially the dogs, cats, and rabbits; and it appears that all degenerate, and lose this peculiarity when removed to a distance. The quantity of goats wool exported was estimated, by Mr. Ainsworth, at 1 ,250,000 Ibs. ; of this only 500,000 Ibs. were of the first quality. More recent accounts give much lower returns. The items of export next in importance are merino twist and goats hides; dye stuffs, principally madder, and the yellow berries of the Ithamnus catharticus ; mastic, tragacanth, and other gums; also honey and wax. British manufactures are imported to some extent; but there are few or no European houses here, the trade with the West, formerly more considerable than it is now, being mostly in the hands of the Armenians, who form an important section of the population. Angora is the seat of a Greek bishop. The pop. has been variously estimated, but is probably about 35,000, of whom nearly 10,000 are Greeks and Armenians. ANGORNOW, or ANGORNU, a large and populous tn., N.W. Africa, kingdom or territory of Bornoo, on the S.W. shore of Lake Tchad, 20 m. S.S.E. Kouka; lat. 12 36 N. ; Ion. 14 30 E. Various caravan routes pass through it from the N., S., and E. ANGOSTA, or ANOOZHA, a dist. and three islands, S.E. Africa, Mozambique Channel. The district is extremely fer tile, and is watered by a river of the same name. The islands ANGOSTURA 157 ANGRA PEQUENA Ho a short distance off, and parallel to tlie coast; they are all of coral, more or less wooded, and abound in fish and turtle, as well as the most beautiful shells and corallines. The most W. is called Caldeira, in lat. 16 38 48" S. ; Ion. 39 46 E. (R.) The most E., named Mafamele, is in lat. 16 20 30" S.; Ion. 40 4 E. (n.) Like the other islands, it consists wholly of coral, with a thin covering of sand, and is not more than 8 ft. above the level of the sea ; yet it is covered with a grove of stately casuarina trees, some measuring about 10ft. in cir cumference, most of them perfectly straight, without a branch for 30 or 40 ft. above the ground, and many 150 ft. high, rendering them visible from the mast head, from a distance of 15 or 18 in. All the Angosta Islands are small, none of them exceeding 2 or 3 m. in extent, and usually surrounded by reefs. (Capt. Owen ; Horsburgh.) ANGOSTURA, or SANTO TOMAS DE LA NUEVA GUA- IANA, a city, Venezuela, S. America, cap. prov. of Guaiana, at a narrow pass or strait (Angostura), r. bank, Orinoco, about 240 m. from the sea ; lat. 8 8 N. ; Ion. 63 55 W. The streets are regular and well paved ; and the houses in general good, being built, for the most part of stone, with terraces on the tops. There is here a college, an hospital, and a magni ficent hall, in which the second congress, commonly called the congress of Angostura, was installed, Feb. 15, 1819, the ninth year of the independence of Venezuela. The pass in which Angostura lies is defended by fort San Rafell, situated on a hill across the river from the town. From the mouth of the Orinoco to this city, the voyage occupies 20 to 25 days ; back again, 5 to 1 5 days. Angostura exports cotton, indigo, tobacco, coffee, cattle, &c. The average value of exports, 1840^3, amounted to 100,203 ; in 1844, it was 92,354. The imports, 1840-43, averaged 68,160; but, in 1844, they fell off to 22,793. British goods are much in demand, and the exportation of cattle to British colonies is increasing. The climate is warm, but healthy. Pop. in 1840, 8500. ANGOULEME, a city, France, cap. dep. Charente, and formerly of the prov. of Angoumois, 1. bank, Charente, 60 m. N.N.E. Bordeaux, and 235 S.S.W. Paris. It stands on the summit of an isolated rocky hill, at the foot of which is the suburb Houmeau, through which passes the high road from Paris to Bordeaux. The town, though 221 ft. above the river, is now well supplied with fresh water, pumped up by machinery. The air is pure and healthy, and the views from the fine terrace walks, formed on the site of the old ramparts, and nearly encircling the city, are extensive and beautiful. The old part of the town is ill built, and the streets are narrow and crooked ; but in the new quarter the houses, of white stone, are well constructed, and the streets straight and spacious. In the market place, in the centre of the town, stands the old castle, once the residence of the ancient Counts of Angouleme ; but what remains of it is now converted into a prison. Queen Marguerite of Navarre, sister of Francis I., the most accom plished princess of her day, and no mean writer, was born within its walls ; and there, too, Marie de Medicis found a shelter after the assassination of her husband. The cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter, a curious old building, restored in 1120, suffered much at the Revolution. Among the modem structures worthy of notice are the Palais de Justice, the bridge over the Charente, and the column erected, in 1816, to the Duchess d Angouleme, but since, in 1830, re-dedicated to Liberty (a la liberte.) Angouleme is the see of a bishop, suffragan of the Archbishop of Bordeaux ; and contains a court of assizes, a tribunal of primary jurisdiction, a royal college, a society of agriculture and commerce, two hospitals, a depot de mendicite, a lunatic asylum, and a house of correction; besides a public library, with 16,000 volumes, and a museum of natural history. The royal naval school, established here in 1816, and suppressed in 1830, has been transferred to Brest; the buildings, which are very extensive, are now occupied by the royal college. The staple manufacture is paper, made in numerous mills in the neighbouring valleys. In all, about 35 mills are at work, producing annually, on an average, about 100,000 reams of paper, called papiers d Angoulome, and esteemed among the best made in France. There are also manufac tures of woollen stuffs, linen, and earthenware; brandy distil leries, sugar works, tanneries, tileworks, and iron forges. A considerable trade is carried on in wine, brandy, and fruits; and particularly in cherries, saffron, and salt. The port of Angotilpme, on the Charente, is the entrepot of the commerce of Bordeaux, and most of the S. departments. One article for which Angouleme is celebrated is its pates de perdrix anx fruffes partridge pies with truffles. Pop. in 1846, 17,237. ANGOUMOIS, a former prov. France, cap. Angouleme, comprehending the three districts, Angoumois proper, Aunis, and Saintonge, now comprised principally in deps. Charente and Charente Inferieure. ANGOZHA, or ANGOXA. See ANGOSTA. ANGRA, a seaport tn. belonging to Portugal, S. side of Terceira, one of the Azores, of which it is the cap.; lat. (custom house) 38 38 54" N. ; Ion. 27 13 45" W. (R.) It is well-built and regular, and its situation beautiful. The streets are broad, and have flagged footways, but are much infested with pigs, every house having several of these animals. The houses are mostly three stories in height. There are here magazines of stores for the use of the royal navy, and for merchant vessels in distress. The maritime affairs of the port are under the inspection of an officer, who has a number of subordinates, including pilots, to conduct vessels into the harbour, and to execute the other duties connected therewith. Angra is the seat of the local government ; of a bishop s court, which extends its jurisdiction over all the Azores; and is the residence of English, French, and Dutch consuls; and may, therefore, be considered the cap., not only of Terceira, but of all the Azores. The harbour in which it is situated, the only good one in the island, indeed of the whole group, is of the form of a crescent, and commanded at either extremity, where the passage is very narrow, by a strong battery. It is, however, safe only in the fine season ; in the stormy months being exposed to furious tempests, which render it so dangerous, that vessels on the least appearance of a gale run out to sea, there being no safety for them otherwise. Its chief exports are wine and grain. Pop. 10,000. ANGRAB, a river, Abyssinia, taking its rise in Dembca, a little N. from Gondar, whence it flows in a N.N.W. direc tion, and falls into the Tecazze at lat. 14 20 N. Its whole course is about 120 m. in length. ANGRA DE CINTRA BAY, Africa, N.W. coast. The S. point of the bay is in lat. 22 58 N.; Ion. 16 30 W.; the opening into it is about 7 m. wide, and from 7 to 9 fathoms deep ; its extent inland, about 4 m. It abounds with fish, which are taken in great quantities by vessels from the Canary Islands. ANGRA DOS REIS, a seaport, Brazil, on a bay of the same name, prov. of, and 70 m. W. from Kio de Janeiro, lat. 23 4 S. ; Ion. 44 30 E. It lies facing the sea, at the foot of a kind of promontory, which, rising up behind it, limits in some degree its facilities for increasing in size. All its streets, with one exception, are narrow, crooked, and badly paved ; some, indeed, are not paved at all. It has three churches, a townhall, an hospital, a convent of Carmelites, and another of Capuchins, and a public fountain at the end of the only straight street in the town. The inhabitants are supplied with excellent water from springs in the hills behind. The port in front of the town forms a semicircle, the extremities of which are defended by forts ; and the roadstead, which is shut in from the Atlantic by the llha Grande, affords anchor age for the largest vessels. Angra dos Reis carrier on an active trade with Rio de Janeiro, principally in coffee. Pop. rather above 3000. (Die. Geo. Imp. Brazil.} ANGRA DOS REIS, a bay, Brazil, prov. Rio de Janeiro, in that part of it called llha Grande, from the island of that name, which shelters the bay from the Atlantic. It extend-* E. to W. about 75 m., and has along its shores a number of small, cultivated, and partially inhabited islands. The bay is well sheltered from all winds, but more particularly from the S. and S.W. winds, which are especially dangerous on the coasts of Brazil. It affords anchorage for the largest vessels. (Die. Geo. Imp. Brazil.} ANGRA PEQUENA [Little Bay], or SANTA CRUZ, on the S.W. coast of Africa, 150 m. N. by W. from the embou chure of the Gariep or Orange River, lat. 26 38 24" S. ; Ion. 15 8 E. (R.) It has from 3 to 5 fathoms water; the best and deepest anchorage is on the E. side of the isles at its en trance, in 4 or 4J fathoms, sheltered from all winds. About 70 m. to the N.E., on the r. bank of the Fish River, is tho missionary station Betni. ANGUTLLA 158 ANJAR ANGUILLA, or SNAKE ISLAND, the most N. of the Caribbee Islands, belonging to the British, due N. St. Mar tin s, from which it is distant about 5 m. ; lat. (custom house) 18 Q 13 12" N. ; Ion. 63 4 12" W. (R.) It is about 20 m. long, and 6 broad, but is so low and flat that it cannot be seen from a greater distance than 10 or 12 m. The soil is calcareous, and not very productive. A little sugar, cotton, tobacco, and maize are grown on it, but it is deficient both in wood and water. In the centre of the island is a saline lake, which yields a large quantity of salt, the greater part of which is exported to America. The climate is healthy. The chief occupations of the inhabitants are breeding cattle and gather ing salt. The town is situated on the E. side, and near the N.E. end of the island ; it is a small place, with little trade. Anguilla was first settled by the English, in 1659, and has since continued in their possession. It is governed by a magistrate elected by the colonists, but subject to the approval of the governor of Antigua. The pop. is about 3131 ; of which 360 are whites, 320 coloured, and 2451 African. ANGU1LLARA, a tn. Austrian Italy, on the Adige, 23 m. S. Padua. Pop. 2300. This is also the name of a tn. in the Papal States, on the Lake Bracciano, 16 m. N.N.W. Rome. Pop. 700. ANGUS, a co. Scotland. See FORFAR. ANHALT, a country of N. Germany, forming the three duchies of Anhalt-Bernburg, Anhalt-Kothen, and Anhalt- Dessau. It lies partly in the plains of the middle Elbe, and partly in the valleys and uplands of the E. lower Harz, and ! is bounded, N. by the Prussian prov. of Brandenburg ; E. and ! S. by Prussian Saxony; S.W. by the Earldom of Mansfeldt; and N.W. by the territories of Brunswick and the Prussian circle of Magdeburg: area, 1018 sq. m. ; greatest length, 60 m.; breadth varying from 12 to 16 m. The soil through out is fertile and well cultivated. All sorts of grain, wheat especially, are grown in abundance; also flax, rape, potatoes, tobacco, and hops. Some madder is also produced. Garden fruit abounds, and in the valley of the Saale the vine is cul tivated. The inhabitants are principally occupied in agricul tural pursuits, and in rearing cattle and sheep. In the vicinity of Bernburg are several mines and ironworks, the products of which are not very great. The manufactures, which are not important, include worsteds, flannels, broad cloth, linen cloth, yarn, leather, tobacco, sugar, wax, soap, candles, stoneware, &c. The trade in raw materials and objects of art has much increased since the opening of the two railways passing through Kothen the one from Berlin, the other from Leipzig. The three duchies furnish a contingent of 1024 men to the army of the Confederation, and of that number Anhalt-Bernburg supplies 370. The total revenues of the triple principality amount to 149,600, and their public debt to 292,000. Pop. 149,065; of which it is computed that Anhalt-Dessau lias 61, 793; Anhalt-Bernburg, 46,252; and Anhalt-Kothen, 41,020. ANHANDUIIY-MIRIM & ANHANDUHY-GUAZU, the names of two rivers in Brazil, prov. Matto-Grosso. Both rise in the serra Galliano, within 22 m. of each other, and flow E. Both fall into the Rio Vermelho ; the former about lat. 20 30 S.; the latter in lat. 21 20 S., or at a distance of about 60 m.; the course of the one being about 150 in. in length, the other about 200 m. AN HID, a par. Ireland, co. Limerick; 981 ac. Pop. in 1841, 493. AN HOLT. 1, A small isl. Denmark, in the Kattegat, about 7 m. long by 4 broad, generally unfertile, and surrounded by sandbanks and dangerous reefs. One of these reefs stretches from the E. corner of the island, in an E. direction, for 7 m. ; and a lighthouse, erected so early as 1582, stands on that corner, in lat. 56 44 18" N .; Ion. 11 39 15" E. (R.) As an additional security, a floating light lies anchored in 18 fathoms water, about 1 mile E. of the reef, and continues there from the beginning of March to the end of December. The inhab itants, amounting to 200, live chiefly in the little village of Anholt-By, on the W. side of the island, and depend for their subsistence on fishing and the picking up of stranded goods. In 1800, the British took possession of the island, fortified the tower of the lighthouse, and erected casemates for a garrison of about 900 men. An attempt to dislodge them proved in effectual, and they maintained possession, employing the place as a head statioii till the peace. 2, A tn. Prussia, prov. Westphalia, gov. Minister, 18 m. W. Borken, upon the Old Yssel ; cap. of the barony of Salm, and the residence of the Prince de Salm-Salm. Pop. 2000. ANIANE, a tn. France, dep. Herault, 16m. W.N.W. Montpellier, in a lovely and fertile plain watered by the Herault. The first nucleus of the town was a monastery, which was founded by St. Benedict in 780, and richly en dowed. The church of the monastery is now the parish church, and the other part of the building has been converted into a cotton mill. Beside the cotton twist thus produced, Aniane has manufactures of leather, cream of tartar, verdi gris, black soap, perfumes, and other chemical products. It has also limestone quarries and lime kilns, and an annual fair for cattle, leather, and goats skins. Pop. 2615. ANIBA, a small river, Brazil, Portuguese G Havana. It rises in the territory Aruaquis, about lat. 1 27 S. ; lou. 58 40 W.; and, after a course of about 100 m., forms, with other small affluents of the Amazon, the island of Ramos, in lat. 2 36 S. ANICIIE,atn. France, dep. Nord, about 9m. from Douay; lies in the principal coal field which France possesses, and to this circumstance owes all its importance. The mines in the neighbourhood employ about 500 persons. The manufactures are beet sugar, and window and bottle glass. The chief export is coal. Aniche once enjoyed the singular privilege of levying from every stranger who came to live within its bounds, the best article among his luggage. Pop. 1818. ANICUNS, a small river, Brazil, prov. Goj az, rises in the serra Escalvada, about lat. 16 22 S.; Ion. 51 40 W.; and, after a course of nearly 200 m. in a S. and S.S.W. direc tion, falls into the Curumba, lat. 18 51 S. having beeu pre viously joined by the Pasmados. AN I EH. SeeAmzEH. ANILORE, a small river, Brazil, prov. Para, rises in lat. 6 51 S.; Ion. 60 10 W.; falls into the Maderia, lat. 5 10 S.; Ion. 60 40 W., after a N.N.W. course of about 130 m. ANIUJ, or ANITJY (GREATER and LESSER), two rivers, N.E. Siberia, country of the Tchuktchi ; the former rises about lat. 67 10 N., and, after a W. course of 270 m., falls into the Kolima by three outlets, at lat. 68 N. The latter rises in lat. 66 30 N. and, after a N.W. course of about 250 m., also joins the Kolima, at nearly the same point with the Greater Aniuj ; the two rivers gradually converging till they meet at their embouchures. The banks of the larger stream present a dreary appearance for a considerable way from its outlets, but latterly begin to improve, the pastures presenting a more verdant appearance. The right bank is | higher than the left, and consists of steep sand hills, 30 or j more fathoms high, and held together only by the perpetual j frosts which the summer is too short to dissolve. The cur rent is in some places very rapid, and the bottom is strewed with rough and sharp-pointed stones, very dangerous to craft navigating the stream. The Lesser Aniuj, being a mountain stream, is subject to violent and sudden overflows, carrying away islands and forming new ones, and sometimes altering its course for many miles. Its fisheries are of little importance. ANIVA (BAY OF, and CAP?:), an isl. Saghalien, E. coast, Asia; lat. 46 2 N.; Ion. 1433 0"E. (R.) It is enclosed by two projecting tongues of land, Cape Crillon and Cape Aniva, distant from each other 60 m. There is good anchorage at the N. extremity of the bay. AN1ZEH, a tn. Arabia, prov. Nedjd Proper ; lat. 26 34 N. ; Ion. 43 25 E. ; beautifully situated in a valley. It is extensive, amply supplied with water, and well built. Being situated in the heart of Arabia, and at the junction of many principal caravan routes, including those of Bagdad, Damas cus, Basrah, &c., towards the Persian Gulf and Medina, Mecca, &c., towards the Red Sea it is a place of great commercial importance. Merchants, chiefly from the Gulf of Persia, assemble at this place, bringing Indian rice and goods to the bazaars. It is the birthplace of Abd-ul-Waheb, founder of the sect of the Wahabees. ANJAR, a small dist. and tn. Hindoostan, prov. Cutch. The district was ceded to the British in 1816, and is governed by a commissioner, deputed by the Bombay Government. It is a dry, sandy tract, irrigated by wells or tanks. Anjar, the capital, is situated on a slope, 10 m. from the Gulf of Cutch; lat, 23 3 N.; Ion. 70 11 E. The fortifications ANJE-DIVA ANKOBAR form a polygon, anil are 6 ft. in thickness, but have no ditch or outworks. In 1816, the town surrendered to the British under Col. East, and, in 1819, it suftered severely from an earthquake ; the fort, with its towers and guns, having been hurled to the ground in one common mass of rain, together with 3000 houses ; 165 lives also were lost on this occasion. lu 1820, the pop. was estimated at 10,000. (Hamilton s East India Gaz.) ANJE-DIVA, or ANJADEEPA, an isl. on the Malabar coast, Hindoostan ; lat. 14 45 N. ; Ion. 74 5 E. (it.) It is about 2 in. from the shore, and is about 1 m. in length ; it appears on the outside barren and rocky, but has an attractive aspect on the side next the land, where it is fortified by a wall and some towers. Close to it, on the outside, the depths are 10 and 11 fathoms. ANJEH. See ABDEH. ANJENGA, or ANJUTENGA, a small seaport, S. Hindoo stan, prov. Travancore, about 70 m. N. by W. Cape Como- rin ; lat. 8 39 54" N. ; Ion. 76 45 E. (R.) In 1684, the East India Company obtained permission from the reigning princess to fortify Anjenga, and establish a factory; but, having been found an unprofitable possession, it was abandoned in 1813. Its principal exports are coir cables, made of the fibres of the Laccadive cocoa nut, pepper, coarse piece goods, coir, and a few drugs. ANJER, AN.TERIE, or ANGER, a well-known maritime tn. Java, in Sunda Strait; lat. 6 3 12" S. ; Ion. 105 57 E. (E.) being the westernmost port on the island. It is populous, and well fortified. The natives of this town, and other places on this part of the coast of Java, drive an extensive trade in natural curiosities among the passengers of homeward-bound India- men. At Anjer, especially, says Capt. Belcher, a fair of the most remarkable character is held under the shade of a magnificent banyan tree, where, for a few dollars, may be purchased long-armed apes, hideous baboons, pigmy musks, Java finches, doves, perroquets, grackles, love birds, and splendid peacocks. Ships may be conveniently supplied here with water, and other refreshments, such as buffaloes, poultry, turtle, fruit, vegetables, &c. In the canoes that venture along side the ship with these supplies, says the authority above quoted, amusing monkeys may be seen sitting among heaps of fruit and vegetables, chattering and making grimaces ; and huge turtles lying bound at the bottom of the boats. The canoes are occupied chiefly by women, who present a very singular appearance, their heads being protected from the sun by large hemispherical bamboo hats, and their long black shining hair streaming down their backs. The country around is extremely fertile, but too thinly peopled to do it justice. Col. Cathcart, who died on his way to China as ambassador, in 1785, is interred here. (Sir E. Belcher s Voyage of the ANJOS, a vil. Brazil, prov. Sao-Pedro-do-Rio-Grande, beautifully situated on the Butucarahi, an affluent of the Jacuy. It has a church and some schools ; the inhabitants live by fishing and agriculture. Pop. 2653. ANJOU [Latin, Andcgavensis], an anc. prov. France, now forming dep. Maine-et-Loire, and parts of Mayenue, Sarthe, and Indre-et-Loire. ANKAPILLY, a tn. Hindoostan, N. Circars, 24 m. W. by S. Vizagapatam ; lat. 17 41 N.; Ion. 83 11 E. It is a large place, nearly 1 m. in length, and wide in proportion, with a good bazaar, and thickly interspersed with trees. ANKARA, a country or kingdom, N. end, isl. of Mada gascar, extending on the E. side of the island, from Cape Amber to lat. 14 25 S. ; and on the W. side to the river Samberanou. The country is generally elevated, formed by small hills and plateaux, disposed like an amphitheatre, and cut up by deep ravines. A chain of mountains runs nearly equidistant from either coast, and terminates in the high moun tain Arnbouitch, a little way S. British Sound or Diego Soarez Bay. The sides of this chain and its offsets are covered with fine wood, among which are several species suitable for ship building, and some which yield turpentine and gums. Froin both slopes flow numerous, mostly rapid streamlets, in courses generally much inclined. On the W. coast are the little rivers Ankara, Mahavavi and Samberanou. The whole coasts are deeply indented with extensive well-sheltered bays. Those on the E. are Vohemare, Andrava, Manguervi or Leven, Loukez- Lingvatou or de Eigny, and Antombouk ; those on the W. are Ampanhaui or Jenkinson, Ambavaui-Be or Port Liverpool, Ansatze, Ampergue-Ara or Port Chancellor, and a great num ber of smaller inlets and creeks. On the W. coast are also sev eral groups of islets, of which may be named Nossi- Ara, Nossi- Lava, Nossi-Mitsiou, Nossi- Fali, Nossi-Comba, and Nossi-Be". Rice, manioc, maize, and battatas are cultivated, but not in sufficient quantity to admit of any being exported. From the sugar cane, which is also grown to some extent, a kind of agree able fermented liquor, named bessa-bess, is obtained, by infus ing the juice with certain bitter barks ; severals kinds of palms, including the cabbage palm, abound. Cattle are abundant, and about 30,000 are exported annually to Bourbon and Mauritius, either alive or salted. In Ankara polygamy is practised, the most petty chief having three wives ; the first being the wife proper, to whom is committed the charge of the house ; the second is a kind of concubine, generally pretty, and liable to be dismissed when her beauty begins to fade ; the third is commonly a slave, who receives her liberty as soon as she becomes a mother. The men build houses and canoes, fish and make war. The women till the fields, and perform all other kinds of labour. During leisure hours, they make palm-leaf mats, weave a kind of cloth suitable for clothing, and for making canoe sails, and make earthenware. The religion of the inhabitants of Ankara (called Antankaras) is a mixture of Polytheism and Fetichism, the belief in two principles called Zanabar and Angatch predominating. They pay great re spect to their dead, and believe in the transmigration of souls. The country is now subject to the Hovas, and is almost depo pulated ; the shores and the banks of the streams being almost the only parts inhabited. The decrease in the number of the people has arisen partly from numerous intestine wars, and partly from emigration, many having left and settled in Nossi-Be, an island on the W. coast taken possession of by the French. (Guillain, Documens sur I histoire, la geographic et le commerce de Madagascar.) ANKASSGERRY, or ANKOSGERHY, a tn. Hindoostan, Mysore territories, 40 m. S.E. Bangalore; lat. 1239 N.; Ion. 78 8 E. ANKLAM, a tn. Prussia, prov. Pomerania, gov. of, and 49 m. N.W. from Stettin, cap. circle of same name, r. bank. Peene, which is here navigable. It is surrounded by an old wall with three gates, leading to three suburbs, and has three churches, three hospitals, and a college. The manufactures are woollen clothes, cotton stuffs, hosiery, leather, soap, tobacco, and snuffboxes. It has, besides, several breweries, some shipbuilding, and a brisk trade in corn, wood, and glass. In 1319, Anklam was admitted into the Hans League, and it still possesses some important privileges ; but never has a town been more frequently subjected to the greatest calami ties fire, pestilence, and war, which make its history a suc cession of the most fearful disasters. From 1384 to 1696, fires seven times laid great part of it in ashes. It was five times visited with pestilence. From 1626 to 1761, it was besieged, sacked, and plundered by all parties successively Danes, Imperialists, Swedes, and Russians. In 1762, on the peace which concluded the seven years war, its fortifications were dismantled, and from this period its greatest prosperity may be dated. Its ships, many of them built within its own port, have rapidly increased. Pop. 7800. The CIRGXE has an extent of about 190 geo. sq. m. and a pop. of 25,000. It is watered by the Peene, and contains numerous lakes. The surface is generally flat, and is in some places sandy, stony, and unfertile. It, however, produces all the ordinary grain and pulse crops ; also flax, potatoes, and good pasture. ANKOBAR, or ANKOBER, a tn. Abyssinia, cap. kingdom of Shoa, built chiefly on the acclivities of a steep conical hill 8200 ft. high, in lat. 9 34 N. ; Ion. 39 35 E. The houses are constructed chiefly of wood, with tapering thatched roofs, and are generally surrounded by a garden. The upper part of the town is hedged in with long stakes interwoven with boughs as palisades, and on the summit is the king s palace, an extensive structure, built of stone and mortar, with a thatched roof. The whole appearance of the town is singular, the conical thatched roofs of the houses making them re semble so many barns and hay cocks. The rich vegetation, however, with which it is surrounded, together with the cool ness and purity of the atmosphere, render it an exceedingly agreeable place. A market is held every Saturday, when ANKOVA ANNADUFF AMvOUAtt. From Sir W. C. H. ions of the Highlands of Ethiopia. sheep, corn, and sometimes fat or suet, and other articles are I which it has communication by the Nipigon River. 6, A sold ; the market place is about 1 m. from the town. A good harbour on the E. side of Cape Breton, British America ; lat. mule according to Krapf, may be bought at Ankobar for 40s. 46 21 N. ; Ion. 60 27 W. (u.) ANNA (SANTA), the name, as in the above instance, of various places in different parts of the world. The following are amongst the more im portant: 1, Santa Anna Isles and Bay. The former, three in number, are situated off the E. coast of Brazil, prov. Rio Janeiro, about 30 m. N. from Cape Busies; lat. 22 25 S.; Ion. 41 41 W. They lie about 6 m. from the shore, afford ing shelter and good anchorage. The large bay in which they are situated, having Cape St. Thome on the N.E., and ( ape Busios on the S.W., is called the Bay of Santa Anna. 2, A small isl. N. coast of Brazil, about 20 m. from the shore, prov. Maranham ; lat. 2 16 S. ; Ion. 43 41 W. (R.) 3, An isl. Brazil, prov. Matto-Grosso, formed by the river Araguaya, which, dividing into two branches at lat. 12 30 S., reunites at lat. 9 30 S., and thus forms what is called the island of Santa Anna or Bannanal. It is about 200 m. ia length, and from 20 to 30 in breadth. 4, One of the Solomon Islands, S. Pacific Ocean; lat. 10 50 ri. ; Ion. 1 62 32 E. (u.) 5, Santa Anna de Chavos, a tn. and bay, isl. St. Thomas, Bight of Biafra, S.W. coast, Africa; lat. 20 5" N.; Ion. 6 43 E. (E.) 6, An inlet of the sea, called a lake, in Mex ico, prov. Tabasco, Gulf of Mexico, intersected by the parallel 18 S. ; it is about 15 m. in length, and 10 in breadth at the broadest part, and communicates with the Gulf of Mexico by a narrow channel. 7, A tn., E. coast, isl. Marie Galante, one of the Leeward Islands, belonging to the French. SANTA ANNA is also the name of numerous villages and small towns in S. America. ANNABERG, a tn. Saxony, dist. Zwickau, r. bank, Sehm, 45 m. S.W. Dresden, and 7 m. from the frontiers of Bohemia. Its site is 1800 ft. above the level of the sea, among hills which contain mines of silver, tin, cobalt, and iron. The chief buildings are the lyceum, colle e, museum, and three churches, one of them containing several good pictures, and a curious bas-relief in terra cotta. The manufactures are very important. A great number of rib bon makers, driven from Belgium by the tyranny of the Duke of Alva, found a new home in Annaberg, and have made it the seat of a ribbon trade, which is carried on with all the scientific improvements which have been recently introduced ; and notwithstanding of the competition of Lyons and other towns, which have the same staple, is still under stood to yield good returns. The ornamental gauze and flower ribbons are said to bear a high name, and to deserve it. Great quantities of lace, hand-wrought, were at one time made, but the introduction of the English lace machine has seriously interfered with that kind of labour. The only other manufactures deserving of notice are those of silk stuffs and oil cloth. Pop. 7300. In addition to the above town, Annaberg is the common name of a great number of uniin- ortant places throughout Germany, particularly Austria and ussia. ANNABON, or ANNABOA. See ANNOBON. ANNABURG, a tn. Prussian Saxony, gov. Merseburg, 2 m. N. Torgau, and 56 N.N.W. Dresden; situated near the Schwarze or Black Elster. It has a castle, built by Anna, consort of the elector Augustus; converted, in 1762, into a military school, where 400 protestant boys, sons of Prussian to 505., and a good horse for about 35s. Pop. generally about 5000; but, when the court is there, it rises to from 12,000 to 15,000. ANKOVA, a kingdom, Madagascar, occupying nearly the precise centre of the island, and the most powerful of all the states in it. It is destitute of wood ; and is without roads, canals, or other means of conveyance, rendering its capabili ties unavailing, and confining the consumption of its produce, chiefly rice and cotton, to the inhabitants. Agriculture is thus necessarily little attended to ; and the less that rice is so abundant, raised with so little trouble, and disposed of with such difficulty, that there is no inducement to exertion. A small extent of sugar cane is cultivated, from which a little sugar, of inferior quality, is obtained, by an imperfect pro cess. The air of this part of the island is considered very salubrious. The inhabitants, called Ovahs or Hovas, are a superior race ; in person they are tall and handsome, and of all shades of colour, but chiefly copper, with long lank hair; and are supposed not to have belonged originally to the island. They are distinguished by their superior skill in manufac turing silk and cotton dresses, to which they give a great variety of the richest colours ; in forging iron, and in making silver and gold chains. Their language is written in the Arabic character, and their religion idolatry. In their con duct and dispositions, they exhibit a mingled magnanimity and ferocity ; and frequently cover sinister designs with an impressive politeness. Avarice is their prevailing vice. The principal town is Tananarive, almost the central point of the island. Though the chief place, however, there is nothing about it to indicate its rank ; being little different, in any respect, from the other villages in the kingdom. It is built upon a hill, and takes its name from the number of houses it was supposed to contain, tanan signifying a village, and arivo a thousand. (Descartes, Hist, et Geo. de Madagascar.} AXMEU, a par. England, co. Norfolk; 1420 ac. ; 6m. N.E. by E. Castle. Pop. in 1841, 175. ANN (S r.), a name applied to a number of places in various parts of the world. The best known and most worthy of notice are: 1, St. Ann Sftoals, off the S. part of the coast of Sierra Leone, extending from Cape Shilling to Sherboro Island, a distance of between 30 and 40 m. 2, St. Ann (Cape), the extreme N.W. point of Sherboro Island, coast of Sierra Leone; lat. 7 34 N.; Ion. 12 08 W. (u.j having close by a group of islands called Turtle Islands. 3, St Ann s, a tn., river, and bay, Jamaica, on the N. coast; the latter in lat. 18 26 24" N. ; Ion. 77 13 VV. (r..) 4, A capo or headland on the N.W. coast of Africa, about 35 in. S.S.E. of S. Cape Blanco, near Arguin, and within the bank of that name; lat. 20 3(X N. ; Ion. 17 W. 5, A lake, Upper Canada, 20 m. long, and 20 broad, about 45 m. N. from Lake Superior, with po Pr soldiers, are educated, from their llth to their 18th year, and then appointed non-commissioned officers or musicians in the army. Besides the seven classes for mental instruction, the younger boys are taught gardening, knitting, and other domes tic branches, while the elder ones acquire some useful trade. Most of them are taught music ; and a few distinguished pupils devote their time to scientific pursuits bearing upon military life. At the head of the academy are two commissioned officers ; besides these, a clergyman, a school inspector, nine teachers, a physician, and a surgeon; four stewards, and numerous subordinate officials are regularly employed. Pop. 1700. ANNADUFF, a par. Ireland, co. Leitrim ; 10,970 ao. Pop. in 1841, 6162. ANNAGELIFFE 161 ANNA-PAROCHIE (Si-.) ANNAGELIFFE, a par. Ireland, co. Cavan; 82GO ac. ! Pop. 3808. ANN A Gil, the name of two small islands, three parishes, a vil., and small lake, in Ireland: 1, An isl., W. coast, between the isl. of Achill and the mainland of the co. Mayo ; lat. 53 58 N. ; Ion. 9 39 W. It is about 4 m. in circum ference, and, though rugged, has good pasturage for sheep. 2, A small isl. Lough Conn, co. Mayo. 3, A par., co. Kerry, partly in the barony of Corkaguiny, and partly in that of Trughanacmy ; 13,735 ac. Pop. in 1841, 3G59. 4, A par., co. Cavan, partly in barony Loughtee Lower, and partly in that of Tullygarvey; 19,145 ac., which includes 837 ac. of water. Pop. in 1841, 13,071. 5, A par., co. Mayo ; 20,315 ac. Pop. in 1841 , 7904. 6, A small vil., co. Cork, between Charleville and Liscarrol. 7, A small lake on the conriues of King s and Queen s counties. ANNAGHCLONE, or ANACLOAN, a par. Ireland, co. Down ; 6544 ac. Pop. in 1841, 3423. ANN AGIIDOWN, a par. Ireland, co. Galway ; 23,730 ac. Pop. in 1841, 7108. ANNAGOONDY, a small dist. and tn. Ilindoostan, prov. Bejapoor ; the former lying along the 1. bank of the Toom- budra, on which the town also stands. The surface of the country is wild and hilly, interspersed with much wood. For some miles round the town, the soil is encumbered with vast piles of granitic rock. The town is 110 m. W.S.W. Kurnool. ANNAH, a tn. Asiatic Turkey, cap. sanjak, r. bank, Euphrates, where the river makes a slight bend to the N.E. ; lat. 34 15 N. ; Ion. 41 50 E. It is on the caravan route from Bagdad to Aleppo, and is distant from the former about 1 60 m. N. W., and from the latter 15 or 16 days journey. It consists of a long narrow winding street on the bank of the river, and at the base of the hills which here line the Eu phrates. There are two mosques in the town, and a beauti ful minaret 80 ft. high ; a manufactory of coarse cloth, and some flourmills. The number of houses is about 1800. ANNALAND (ST.), or ANNELAND, a vil. Holland, prov. Zeeland, on the isl., and about 9 m. N.W. the tn. of Tholen. It is the prettiest village on the island ; and has a church and good haven, used at times by passing vessels as a place of refuge in stormy weather. The inhabitants are chiefly en gaged in agriculture. Pop. 1694. ANNALONG, a vil. and fishing harbour, Ireland, E. coast, co. Down, between Dundrum Bay and Carlingford Bay. It affords convenient shelter for small fishing vessels, and is, on this account, much frequented by them. ANNAMABOE, a seaport tn., with a fort, Gold Coast, W. Africa; lat. 5 10 N. ; Ion. 1 7 W., 10 m. E. from Cape C oast Castle. The town consists of houses irregularly huddled together, generally built round a court seven yards square; some having clay benches, in the form of sofas, running round the wall inside the court. It was at one time a principal mart for slaves ; in trafficking in which many of its inhabitants became wealthy. A considerable trade in gold is now carried on here. The country around is thickly wooded, and the soil is excellent, but little cultivated ; the natives depending for their subsistence upon corn, yams, vegetables, &c., brought from the interior, and bought in exchange for fish, which are very plentiful on the coast at certain seasons. In 1808, the town was burnt by the Ashantees ; on which occasion nearly two-thirds of the inhabitants were slain. The fort, however, which was garrisoned by some 30 or 40 soldiers only, resisted the efforts of the entire Ashantee force, consisting of 20,000 men, for several days, and, after receiving a small reinforce ment by sea, compelled them eventually to retire. Pop. about 3000. (Duncan s Travels in W. Africa.) ANNAMALLAY.or ANiMALAYA,atn. Ilindoostan, Mala bar coast, 20 m. S.E. by E. Trichoor, and 70 m. S.E. Calicut, 25 m. from the coast ; lat. 10 35 N. ; Ion. 76 55 E. ; 1. bank, Alima, amidst extensive forests of valuable timber, opposite the wide passage between the Ghauts of the Caruatic and the hills to the S. It derives its name, Animalaya [Elephant Hill], from the great number of these animals that inhabit the vicinity. ANNAMOOKA, NAMOUKA, or EOTTERDAM, one of the Friendly Islands, Pacific Ocean, about the centre of the group ; lat. 20 15 S. ; Ion. 175 2 W. (R.) It is of a somewhat triangular form, from 12 to 20 m. in circumference, and sur- YOJ, I. rounded by islets, shoals, and sunken reefs, which extend to a considerable distance from its shore. It exhibits some traces of volcanic action ; and has at its E. side a large lagoon, about 1 m. in circumference. The island is well watered, and pro duces abundance of yams, pine apples, bananas, cocoa nuts, and bread-fruit. Its cultivation and artificial decorations display a tastefulness rarely found among savage tribes. Even when discovered in the 17th century, there were observed in the interior several pieces of cultivated ground or gardens, in which the beds were regularly laid out into squares, and planted with different kinds of trees and shrubs, arranged in straight lines. Private property is exactly ascertained, and each possession is neatly fenced with a beautiful Chinese railing. Highways and roads leading to public places are bounded by suitable walls and hedges ; and many of the houses have a handsome approach in the form of a gravel walk, lined with shrubbery tastefully planted. The inhabitants, however, who resemble those of Tonga, are described as ignorant, superstitious, thievish, and almost destitute of any kind of worship ; but regarding with reverence snakes, flies, and other animals. They have a king or chief, but his power seems to be very limited. Theft is punished in various ways ; but the most effective is shaving the delinquent s head, which exposes him to ridicule. Annamooka was discovered by Tasman in 1643, and by him named Rotterdam. The memory of the Dutch navigator, who supplied the natives with dogs and hogs, is still preserved by oral tradition. The island was visited in 1773 and 1777, by Capt. Cook. In 1791, Anna mooka was reached by Capt. Edwards in the ship Pandora. Since 1829, the inhabitants have been partly christianized by the efforts of British missionaries. Pop. about 2000. ANNAN, a river, Scotland, formed by the union of the Moffat water, which flows from Loch Skene, S.W., and the Evan water, which rises in the upper part of Lanarkshire, and flows S.E. These streams unite 3 m. S. Moffat, and, inter secting Dumfries-shire in a S. course, fall into the Solway Frith about 1 m. S. Annan. Total direct course from the junction of the Moffat and Evan, about 21 m. ANNAN, a borough, seaport tn., and par. Scotland, co. Dumfries. The TOWN lies on the 1. bank of the river of same name, near its confluence with the Solway Frith, 14 m. S.E. Dumfries. It is neat, clean, and well built, and contains many good houses, and handsome shops. The streets are spacious and well paved, and the whole town presents a cheerful and thriving appearance. The public buildings are the parish church and towuhouse, each of which has a handsome spire ; the academy, a remarkably fine structure ; and a bridge over the river, of three arches, erected in 1824, at a cost of about 8000. Amongst the more conspicuous edifices are also some dissenting meeting-houses. There is a subscription library in the town, and several benevolent and religious societies. The manufacture of cotton, rope-making, and ship building, are carried on here, the first and last to a very con siderable extent. There is also a pretty large trade in the curing of bacon and hams, for the Newcastle and London markets; and an extensive export of corn, fat cattle, and sheep. The harbour, a natural one, has been much improved by the construction of an embankment, extending about 1 J m. down the river, from the lower extremity of the town. At its lower termination, this embankment is 19 ft. high, and 120 ft. broad at the base. At the lowest tides there are 14 ft. water in the harbour, and in the lowest spring tides 22 ft. at high water ; but the depths are often much greater, particu larly when a westerly wind has prevailed for a clay or two. Vessels of 60 tons can proceed up as far as the bridge. Annan is governed by a provost, three bailies, a treasurer, dean of guild, and 15 councillors. It joins with Dumfries, Lochmaben, Sanquhar, and Kirkcudbright, in sending a member to Par liament; constituency, 172. Pop. in 1841,4409. Area of PAR., 17 sq. m., or 11, 100 imperial acres. Pop., exclusive of the town, 1062. ANNANDALE,adist. Scotland, Dumfries-shire, through which the Annan flows, and which gave the now extinct title of Marquis to the family of the Johnstones. ANNA-PAROCIIIE (ST.), ST. ANNABUREN, or ST. ANNA, a vil. Holland, prov. Fricsland, 7 m. N.W. Leu-war den, and 8 m. N.E. Franeker. It consists of two double rows of houses, intersecting at right angles at the church, a hand some octagonal building, and has a large school, with school- 21 ANNAPOLIS ANNOBON master s house attached. The vicinity consists of well-culti vated clay lands. Pop. 1800. (Van der Aa.) .:.,. N N . ANNAPOLIS, or PORT-ROYAL.!, A sea river of same name, Nova Scotia, 92 in. W. Halifax ; lat. 44 40 N. ; Ion. 65 30 W. The harbour is commodious and safe, but the entrance is through a difficult strait, called the Gut of Annapolis; lat. (Point Prim) 44 41 N.; Ion. 65 45 W. (R.) The shores on both sides of this strait are iron-bound for several miles, and rise to a great height, causing violent currents and gusts of wind. On entering the basin, much beautiful scenery is presented, and many thriving and ex tensive farms appear. Of late years, the herring fishery of Annapolis has risen to such consequence, that the merchants of Halifax and St. John give them a decided preference for foreign markets. There is a regular packet established from hence across the Bay of Fundy to St. John, in New Bruns wick. This is one of the oldest European settlements in N. America, having been founded by the French, in 1604, under the name of Port-lloyal ; changed to Annapolis in com pliment to Queen Anne, the province having been added to England during the reign of that princess. It was the capi tal of the province till the foundation of Halifax, in 1750, when the seat of the provincial government was removed to that town. It is now a mere village, of not more than GO houses. Pop. of township, including a part of Dalhousie settlement, in 1827, 2578. 2, The county of Annapolis ex tends along nearly the whole coast of the Bay of Fundy. The soil is chiefly marsh and upland; the former composed of fertile alluvial tracts on the rivers and bays, protected from inundation by dikes ; the latter, long ridges of small hills, called by the natives mountains, the summits of which, when cleared of wood and cultivated, are very productive. Pop. of county in 1851, 14,285. 3, The river of the same name rises in the township of Cornwallis, King s County, about 60 m. N.W. Halifax, and, flowing from the N.E., parallel with the Bay of Fundy, expands into a wide estuary, and falls into the sea at Annapolis, after a course of about 70 m. It is navi gable 20 m. above its mouth for ships of 100 tons, and for about 10 m. for vessels of any burden. The tide flows between 30 and 40 m. up. 4, A city and port of entry, U. States, cap. of the state of Maryland, 2 m. from the mouth of the Severn, on its r. bank, and 31 m. E.N.E. Washington, with which, and with Baltimore, it is connected by railroad ; lat. 38 58 7" N.; Ion. 76 29 7" W. (R.) The streets, which diverge from the state-house and the episcopal church, are regularly laid out. The town contains several public buildings deserving notice ; amongst these is the state-house, in which the American Congress held some of its sessions during the revolutionary war. It contains also a state library, county buildings, an Episcopal and a Methodist church, a market- house, bank, and theatre, several schools and aeademies, in cluding a United States naval academy, established in 1845. tit. John s College, a branch of the university of Maryland, was established here in 1784. The trade of Annapolis has been injursd by that of Baltimore. Pop. (1850), 3011. ANNATOM, an isl., S. Pacific Ocean, one of the New Hebrides ; lat. 20 1 V S. ; Ion. 169 42 E. (it.) ; about 240 m. E.N.E. Queen Charlotte s Point, New Caledonia. It presents undulating hills, but no remarkable peaks or striking features. Productions yams, bread fruit, and cocoa nuts. ANNE (ST.) 1, A tn. and bay, isl. Nukahivah or Nooa- ueevah, one of the Marquesas, S. Pacific Ocean ; lat. 8 55 18" S.; Ion. 140 6 W. (R.) 2, A small isl. near to, and on the E. side of the isl. of Mahe, one of the Seychelle Archipelago ; lat. 43G 0"S.; lon.5533 45"E.(u.) 3, Ariverandtn.Lower Canada; the former joins the St. Lawrence about 50 m. W.S.W. Quebec; the latter is situated on the S. bank of that river; lat. 49 N.; Ion. 66 25 W. There are several other rivers of the same name in this territory. 4, Moun tains, Lower Canada, the N E. one in lat. 48 52 N. ; Ion. 66 49 W. (R.); 3973 ft. high. 5, A mountain, France, dep. Orne, 8 m. from Alen^on, on which is a chapel, frequented by great numbers of pilgrims. ANNECY, a tn. Sardinia, in Savoy, cap. of the former prov. of Genevois, pleasantly situated at the N. end of Lake Annecy, 1472 ft. above the sea level, 21 m. S. Geneva. It lias a cathedral, a church, 10 convents and monasteries, a library, and a college, a handsome episcopal palace, and hos pital. Manufactures cotton, silk, straw hats, earthenware, glass, hardware, sulphate of copper, tinned iron, and steel. Four fairs are held annually. Annecy is overlooked by an old castle in a ruinous state, which was formerly the residence of the Counts of Genevois. Anciently occupied by the Romans, the name is said to have been derived from Anicius, ono of the Roman governors of the province. It was once de stroyed by the Goths, and twice by fire, the last time in 1559. Pop. 5700. ANNECY (LAKE), kingdom of Sardinia, in Savoy, be tween 8 and 10 in. in length, from 1 to 2J m. in breadth, and about 1400 ft. above the level of the sea. It is 20 m. S. Geneva, and is surrounded by mountain scenery of the finest description ; and at its lower extremity there is a beautiful promenade, where fairs and public amusements are held. ANNELAND. See ANNALAND. ANNESLEY, a par. England, co. Notts ; 3360 ac. Pop. in 1841, 274. ANNESTOWN, a vil. and seaport, Ireland, co. Water- ford; 12 ac. Pop. in 1841, 149. ANNET, one of the Scilly Islands, S.W. coast, England, off the Land s End, about f m. from the N.W. extremity of the isl. of St. Agnes. It is now uninhabited, but the founda tions of ancient houses, which may be traced at low water, and other evidences, show that it formerly contained a pretty large population. Encroachments of the sea are supposed to have been the cause of its desertion. It now supplies the other islands with fern and turf for fuel, and grazes a con siderable number of sheep, but the latter are small, and in very indifferent condition. ANNI, ANI, or ANISI, an ancient and deserted tn. Turk ish Armenia, about 20 m. E.S.E. Kars ; lat. 40 33 N. ; Ion. 43 32 E. It was built in a triangular form, on a rocky pen insula overhanging the Arpa-chai, and was fortified by strong and massive walls, in some places 40 and 50 ft. high, defended by numerous round towers ; the whole beautifully built, and curiously variegated with ornaments in black stone. The entire site of the town is covered with the ruins of private j houses and public edifices, the latter chiefly churches and | chapels. One of the former, a large Christian church, built j in the form of a Latin cross, is still in good preservation. There are also the remains of an extensive building, which Mr. Hamilton supposes to have been the palace of the Kings of Anni ; it is of excellent masonry, and the gateway is in j rich Saracenic style, while the walls are adorned with elabor ate mosaic patterns, in various coloured stones. The history of this ancient city is imperfectly known, but, situated on the frontiers of Armenia and Georgia, it became, in the fifth or sixth century, the capital of the Pakradian branch of Armenian kings. In the llth century it was taken, pillaged, and its inhabitants massacred, by the Tartars. Soon after, it was altogether abandoned, and has never since been occupied by a civilized people. (Hamilton s Asia Minor &c.) ANNIMALLAY. See ANNAMALLAY. ANNIVIEKS (VAL D ) [German, EinjhcWiaT], a valley, Switzerland, can. Valais, formed by two ranges of mountains branching off N.W. and N.E. from the Weisshom, and abutting on the Upper Rhone, opposite the village of Siders. The val ley is watered by the Usenz, a wild mountain-stream ; it is about 12 m. long; presents wild and varied scenery; and its upper end is terminated by the snow-capped Weisshorn. The inhabitants, from 4000 to 5000 in number, said to be de scended from a troop of Huns, are of powerful make, simple habits, hospitable, and laborious; they cultivate the soil, which, in some parts, is fertile ; but the chief source of sup port is cattle-rearing, and the making of butter and cheese. ANNOBON, or ANNO BOM, a small but beautiful isl. belonging to the Spanish, on the W. coast of Africa, S. of the Bight of Biulra, arid about 190 m. W. Cape Lopez; lat. (N.W. point) 1 24 18" S.; Ion. 5 35 42" E. (R.) It is about 4 m. in length, and 2 m. in breadth, and rises abruptly from an unfathomable depth to a height of 3000 ft. One lofty peak shoots above all the rest, the ascent to which is difficult and dangerous from its extreme steepness, and the looseness of the stones with which the slope is covered. The summit is flat and narrow, scarcely exceeding 10 yards in length, and the wind sweeps over it with great violence. At the base of this peak is a beautiful little circular lake, filling what appears to be the crater of an extinct volcano. The lake is about 9 ft. deep in the deepest part, and the water ANNOEULIN 1G3 ANSE sweet. Capt. Allen speaks in the warmest terms of this little island. We coasted, he says, along this bright isle, opening a succession of little valleys, with fine outlines of steep mountains, richly clothed with wood, while every ledge and crevice gave nourishment to a rich luxuriance of para sitical and other foliage, and the precipitous surfaces were tinged with every variety of colour. Little villages appeared nestled in fertile spots, but these were few, and sometimes only guessed at by the gracefully-curling smoke. At another place he says, At our last resting-place, in the lower part of the valley, we enjoyed a deliciously cool rill, under the shade of palm trees, the arching and intersecting ribs of which formed a more exact representation of the Gothic arch, than any of the types that have been imagined by architects to be the original of that excellent style. Vessels touch at Anno- bon for refreshments, of which the supply is abundant, includ ing pork, mutton (which is small, but well-flavoured), goats, pigs, fowls, bananas, plantains, cassada, sweet potatoes, pines, and tamarinds. Guinea-fowl are particularly plentiful, and afford excellent amusement to the sportsman. The plumage of those found here is richer, the birds larger, and the flesh of a much finer flavour, than that of English game. Cassada, cotton, sugar-cane, &c., are cultivated with care and success by the natives, the grounds appropriated to these productions being carefully enclosed and neatly fenced off. All articles are procured much more readily by barter than for money ; cheap tawdry handkerchiefs, old clothes, muskets, fish-hooks, cutlery, trinkets, rum, and tobacco, being the objects chiefly coveted. Water is abundant, but in some places not easily procured by shipping, on account of the heavy surf on the shores. At others it is obtained more readily. The wood in most abundance on the island resembles in appearance the cotton tree, but is unfit for fuel, on account of its spongy nature. Near the N.E. point of the island is a considerable town, composed of several irregular streets or lanes of detached huts, the latter rudely constructed of rough unhewn boards, of grass, mud, &c. The principal street, however, is tolerably straight, and leads through the town to the church, having crosses planted at intervals. Here is the only safe roadstead for shipping round the island. The bottom is rocky, and the bank of soundings is about one-third of a mile in breadth, and sheltered from all the prevailing winds, except during the tornadoes, against which the chief precaution is to ride with a chain, to prevent the cable being cut. In taking up a position, the rule is not to anchor in less depth than 17 fathoms, with the highest summit of the island bearing S.S.W. W. (magnetic), when the distance from the shore will be little more than half a mile, giving room to veer to the strength of a tornado. The government, according to Capt. Allen, is an oligarchy, vested in five persons, who assume office by turns, strangely enough measuring its tenure by the arrival of ships, the chief magistrate holding his during the period of the arrival of ten. The natives are a harmless, inoffensive people, extremely poor, of which they are in the habit of making the most pathetic complaints to their visitors. The climate is represented by Capt. Allen to be extremely healthy, but a less favourable account has been given by others. The regular winds are from the S.W., excepting during the tornadoes. The rainy seasons are con fined to April, May, October, and November. Besides the town already adverted to, there are a few villages, at other parts of the island. Annobon was discovered by the Portu guese in 1473, and was named from the new year. Pop. estimated at 3000. (Allen s Niger Expedition; London Geo. Jour., vol. ii. p. 276, et seq.} ANNOEULIN, a tn. France, dep. Nord, arrond. of, and about llm. from Lille. A good deal of flax is hand-spun in the town, which has also manufactures of leather and beet root sugar; brick-works, an oil and a corn-mill. Pop. 3040. ANNONAY [Latin, Annoneiim, Annoniacum~\, a tn. France, dep. Ardeche, in the Vivarais (Languedoc), 30 m. S.S.W. Lyons. Its site at the confluence of the Cance and Deaume, which join the Rhone about 6 m. below, is pleasing and picturesque. The best view of it is obtained from the top of St. Denis, a steep rock in the vicinity. The town, which is of a straggling and irregular form, lies immediately below, occupying the tops, sides, and intervening valleys of seven small hills. The most prominent object is the Gothic church of Trachi, with a fine lofty spire. Near it stands the extensive and massy structure of the Ursuline nunnery. In another part is seen an old castle in ruins, once the residence of the Princes of Soubise. Behind, the Deaume pursues a rapid and noisy course along its rocky bed ; and further off, in the same direction, the view is terminated by a mountain range. Within the town, the most interesting object is a monumental obelisk to the celebrated aeronauts, Joseph and Stephen Montgolfier, natives, who made their first ascent here, in 1783 ; and have a still stronger claim on the grati tude of their townsmen for their celebrated paper-mills, which have made the paper of Amionay famous over Europe. The other buildings worthy of notice are the college, the town- house, containing marble busts of the Montgolfiers, the public library of 10,000 volumes, and the museum. Besides its paper, which it produces annually to the value of 120,000, and of which about a third is exported to foreign countries, Annonay can boast of numerous other manufactures, woollen cloth, worsted caps, refined wax, silk and cotton thread, and particularly tanned leather, made chiefly from the skins of unweaned kids, and partly also of lambs. These skins are imported from all quarters of the world. A large portion come from the S. of France, and the districts of the Alps ; also from Spain and Italy, though the heat of these two coun tries is said to make the quality inferior. So important is this branch of manufacture, that it employs 1200 workmen, and yields a produce little short of 700,000 annually. The chief markets for the leather, which is used for the finer sorts of gloves, are Grenoble, Paris, and different towns in England. The surrounding district is covered with mulberry plantations, and produces large quantities of silk. Indeed, the greatest part of the very fine white silk which is employed exclusively in making blonde, comes from Annonay. Pop. 9893. ANNWEILEE, a tn. Bavaria, cap. of its dist., circle of the Rhine, in a beautiful valley of the same name, on the banks of the Queich, 8 m. W. Landau. It has a E. catholic and two Reformed churches, an hospital, and grammar school. Its public works are tanneries, colour-works, brush manu factories, paper-mills, and distilleries of kirscliwasser. On the top of a remarkable hill of sandstone, which overhangs the town, and is 1422 ft. above the level of the sea, stands the ruined castle of Trifels, which was at one time a place of great strength and importance, Frederick Barbarossa, and, indeed, many Emperors both before and after him, holding their court in it, and making it the depository of the regalia of the empire, and which still possesses a deep interest from containing the subterranean dungeon in which Richard Cceur de Lion was treacherously confined in 1192. The sandstone rocks in the vicinity of Annweiler possess, in their fantastic shapes and remarkable fissures, a peculiar attraction for the geologist. Pop. 2602. ANOPSHEHER, or AHAPASHEIIER, a tn. Hindoostan, prov. Agra, 1. bank, Ganges, 72 m. S.E. Delhi; lat. 28 23 N. ; Ion. 78 10 E. In 1800 it was a populous town, con sisting of a mixture of brick and mud buildings, and surrounded by a mud wall, 20 to 30 ft. thick. ANOTTA BAY, N. coast, Jamaica, co. Surrey, about 30 m. from the N.E. end of the island. There is good hold ing-ground in 7 fathoms water, about a quarter of a mile from the shore. ANSE. 1, A tn. [anc. Ansa Paulini] France, dep. Rhone, in a lovely valley near the junction of the Azergue with the Saone, 13 m. N.N.W. Lyons. Under the Romans, in the time of Augustus, it had a garrison of four cohorts (about 2400 men). The ruins of a palace of that Emperor, and traces of the Roman fort, still remain. In the llth and 12th centuries, not fewer than six councils were held here. Anse possesses five fountains ; four of them flow constantly ; but the remarkable circumstance is, that the fifth is dry in wet, and begins to flow only in very dry seasons a fact, it is said, which enables the inhabitants accurately to predict the nature of the coining vintage. The country between Anse and Villefranche is so rich and beautiful, as to have made a proverb of the doggrel stanza De Villefranche \ Anse, La plus belle lieue de France.* Anse has some trade in cattle, corn, hemp, and wine. Pop. 1750. 2, A tn., N. coast, Martinique, in a dangerous bay. Pop. 4500. 3, Les Anses d Arlet, a vil. Martinique, S. of Fort Noya, ANS-ET-GLAIN 164 ANTALO ANS-ET-GLAIN, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. Liege, on the railway between Wareiinc and Liege, and rather more than 2 m. N.N.W. the latter town. The com. has an area of 1850 ac. ; is watered by the Legie, vulgarly called Ri de Coq-Fontaine, and possesses two coal-pits, and several flour- mills. Pop. 4071. ANSLE Y, a par. England, co. Warwick ; 3580 ac. Pop. in 1841, 701. ANSON BAY. 1, A bay, Australia, N.\V. coast, having Cape Ford on the S., and Channel Point on the N. ; width of entrance, 30 m. It is about 220 m. N.E. Cape Londonderry, and 90 m. S.W. Clarence Strait. 2, A bay, W. coast, Korea; lat. 39 25 N. ; Ion. 124 30 E. (R.) 3, A bay, in Tinian Isle, Ladrones; lat. 14 58 N.; Ion. 145 37 E. (R.) In this bay water and refreshments for ships are to be had; but the anchorage is bad, and only for small vessels. ANSON S ISLAND (LORD), an isl., S. Pacific Ocean, called by the natives Bouka ; lat. (most N. point) 5" S. ; Ion. 154 34 E.; separated from Bougainville s Island by a narrow strait. Shores rocky and precipitous, crowned with cocoa trees, dense groves of which extend to the centre of the island. ANSPACII, or ANSBACH [originally Oiwlxback], a tn. Bavaria, cap. circle of same name, and of gov. of Middle Franconia, prettily situated at the junction of the Holzbach with the Lower Rezat, 24 m. W.S.W. Niirnberg. It owes its origin to the monastery of St. Gunibert, which was founded in the eighth century, and in the church of which is the burial- place of the margraves of Anspach. It has one R. catholic, and two Reformed churches, a Jewish synagogue, several important educational and charitable institutions, a picture- gallery, and a public library of 15,000 volumes. The build ing perhaps most worthy of notice is the old deserted palace of the margraves of Anspach, surrounded by gardens, which form an agreeable promenade, and in which is a monument to the poet Uz, who died here in 1796. Its principal manufac tures are of woollen, cotton, and silk stuffs, leather, hardware (including all kinds of cutlery, but particularly surgical instru ments), earthenware, white lead, tobacco, organs, parchment, and playing-cards. There is also a considerable trade in wool, flax, and grain. Pop. 14,500. ANSPACH gives its name to an ancient principality or margravate. which had an extent of nearly 1000 geo. sq. m., and, in 1806, contained a pop. of 300,000. Charles Frederick, the last margrave, sold his possessions, in 1791, to Prussia, and, marrying Lady Craven, took up his residence at Brandenburg House, near London, where he died in 1805. In 1806, Napoleon transferred the principality to Bavaria. ANSTEY, the name of five parishes in England : 1, Co. Herts; 2170 ac.; 3 m. S. Barkway. Pop. in 1841, 497. 2, Co. Warwick; 990 ac. Pop. in 1841, 224. 3, Co. Wilts ; 840 ac. Pop. in 1841, 329. 4, Anstcy [East], Co. Devon; 2170 ac. ; 3 in. W. Dalverton. Pop. in 1841, 240. 5, An- stey (West), Co. Devon ; 2820 ac. ; N. of the above. Pop. in 1841, 279. ANSTON, a par. and township, England, co. York, W. Riding; 3110 ac.j 12 m. S.E. Sheffield. Pop. in 1841, 1102. ANSTRUTHER (EASTER and WESTER), two small burghs and pars. Scotland, on the coast, co. Fife, mouth of the Frith of Forth. They unite with St. Andrews, Crail, Cupar, Kilrenny, and Pittenweem, in returning a member to Parliament. Anstruther Easter, the larger of the two, has a custom-house, a good harbour, and some trade in tanning, fish-curing, brewing, rope and sail-making. It is the birth place of Dr. Thomas Chalmers. Pop. of par. in 1841, 997. Anstruther Wester has little trade. It is lighted, well paved, and drained. Pop. of par. 449, including 22 inhabitants of the island of May, which is claimed also by the parish of Crail. The two burghs are connected by a handsome bridge over the small stream called the Dreal-burn, which forms the boundary between them. ANTA. 1, A tn. Peru, prov. of, and 25 m. N.W. from Cuzco; lat. 13 25 S.; Ion. 70 35 W. 2, A small lake, Brazil, prov. Rio de Janeiro, near Cabo Frio. ANTA, or AUANTA, a small kingdom on the Gold Coast, Africa, about 25 to 30 m. in length, and about 25 m. in breadth ; lat. 5 N. ; Ion. 2 W. On its coast are Axim, Cape Three Points, Aquida, Seccondee, Dixcove, and Boutre, and many commodious havens and creeks. The country is in general woody, well-peopled, and well-watered, and the soil is considered to be the most fertile on the Gold Coast, yielding rice, sugar cane, and all the tropical plants of that region. Its climate is thought to be less fatal to Europeans than that of any other part of Guinea. Since the abolition of the slave-trade, the English have withdrawn the garrisons formerly stationed at Axim, Dixcove, and Sec condee, and the intercourse with that country has very much diminished. ANTAKIA [anc. Antioch], a celebrated city, Syria, 1. bank, Aazy [anc. Orontes], 20 in. from its embouchure in the Medi terranean, 21 m. S.E. Lskcnderoon, and 50 in. E. Aleppo; lat. 30 12 N. ; Ion. 36 8 E. (R.) It stands close upon the river which is here from 100 to 150 ft. wide, and is crossed by a substantial stone bridge of four arches. Behind, and border ing close on it, is the N. termination of the mountains called Jebel Akra or Arsus. The houses are Turkish as to plan, but of inferior construction, usually of stone, though frequently consisting of a wooden frame, filled up with sun-dried bricks, and having a pent roof covered with red tiles. The streets arc narrow, with a raised pavement on each side for foot-pass engers. The city contains 14 mostly insignificant mosques, with low minarets. A considerable portion of the walls of ancient Antioch still remain, with some remnants of a Roman aqueduct and a few catacombs. In the modern town the only objects worthy of notice are the chief bazaar, a few mosques, and a new palace, built for Ibrahim Pasha, but which he afterwards converted into an hospital, and a large barrack, capable of containing 8000 men. The manufactures of the place are trifling ; they comprise silk and cotton stuft s, leather, and coarse pottery. There is also some trade in silk tissues, goats wool, bees wax, and Turkey leather, and in the large eels caught in the Aazy, which are salted and exported in considerable quantities to various places. Modern Antakia occupies but a small portion of the site of the ancient Antioch, which was 4 m. in circumference, and was considered one of the most flourishing cities in the world, its inhabitants being, at the same time, celebrated for their luxury, effeminacy, and licentiousness. Here it was that the disciples of our Saviour were first called Christians. Few places have undergone so many calamities as Antioch. In B.C. 65, on the breaking up of the kingdom of Syria, it was captured by Pompey ; and in A.T>. 115 it was almost utterly destroyed by an earthquake ; and in 540, and again in 574, it was captured by Chosrocs. In 638, it fell into the hands of the Saracens, and remained in their possession till 966, when it was recovered by the Greek Emperor; but it was in 970 again taken by the Saracens, and remained with them till 1098, when it was captured by the Crusaders, who established there a principality which long survived their kingdom of Jeru salem. In 1268, it was wrested from them by Bibars, the Mameluke Sultan of Egypt, when 40,000 Christians were put to the sword, and twice that number made captives. Since that period it has remained in the hands of the Mahometans (Biblical Cydopcedia). In August 1822, Antakia was visited by a destructive earthquake, when walls, mosques, and houses, were thrown down in every direction, the streets tilled with ruins, and between 4000 and 5000 persons destroyed. Ancient Antioch was the capital of the Syro-Macedonian empire. It was composed of four distinct towns, built at different periods, and was founded by Seleucus Nicator, and greatly enlarged by Seleucus Callinicus, and by Antiochus Epiphancs. For several hundred years it was the residence of the Macedonian Kings of Syria, and afterwards of the Roman governors of that province. The valley in which the city stands abounds in olive, fig, and mulberry trees, and in vines. The rich alluvial lands on the borders of the Aa/y are, however, but indifferently cultivated. Pop. in 1835, ex clusive of military, 5600. (Bowring s lieport ; Paton s Modern Syrians; Chesney s Euphrates Expedition.) ANTALO, or ANTAUTW, a tn. Abyssinia, cap. prov. Enderta, in Tigrd ; lat. 30 20 N. ; Ion. 39 50 E. ; on the declivity of a hill, and commanding an extensive view of the country 8. It contains about 1000 houses or huts of the usual Abyssinian form, and the palace of the sovereign of Tigre", who, in order to check the incursions of the Galla tribes, has his residence occasionally here. The inhabitants manufacture spears, and have some trade in cattle, hides, butter, and salt. A.NTANG 1C>5 ANTEQUERA ANTANG, a vil. and dist., E. end, isl. Java, prov. Ke- cliri. The village lies in lat. 7 43 S. ; Ion. 119 E., about 2000 ft. above the sea. In its vicinity arc numerous Hindoo antiquities, consisting of figures of Brahma, Ganessa, &c. The district is a well-watered upland valley, surrounded with moun tains clothed with dense forests ; the lower borders planted with coffee, which is extensively cultivated. Rice is also grown. Pop. variously stated at 7627 and 10,000. (Jour. Indian Archipelago.} ANTARCTIC OCEAN, the name given to the expanse of sea at and around the S. pole, within the limit of the Ant arctic circle, but frequently used in a more extensive sense, to designate the cold oceanic regions round the S. pole, with out any very positive regard to the limits of the antarctic circle. The mystery in which these all but wholly unknown latitudes were shrouded had invested them with an interest which prompted many a daring adventure, but, until re cently, without any good result. It is now otherwise, although there is yet much to learn, a space equal to double the area of Europe being still unexplored. The expedition, composed of two ships, the Erebus and Terror, fitted out by Govern ment in 1839, for purposes of discovery, and commanded by Captain, now Sir James Ross, has contributed a large amount of new and interesting information regarding these high S. latitudes. The highest point previously attained was in lat. 74 15 S. ; that reached by Sir James Ross was in lat. 78 4 S., or within little more than 100 m. of the magnetic pole. Several islands had already been discovered by various navi gators within the antarctic circle, but it was reserved for Sir James to add to these an extensive continent, which he named S. Victoria, a discovery which confirms, in a remarkable manner, the sagacious conjecture of Cook that the greater cold of the antarctic than the arctic regions, is attributable to the existence of a large tract of land between lat. 70 S. and the pole. The interest attached to the discovery and description of Victoria, Land, which had never before been looked on by human eye, nor trod by human foot, will be best maintained by giving the language of the discoverer himself. On the morning of the llth January 1841, says Sir James, when in lat. 70 41 S., and Ion. 172 36 E., land was discovered at the distance of nearly 100 m., directly in the course we were steering, and, therefore, directly between us and the pole. Continuing our course towards this land for many hours, we seemed scarcely to approach it. It rose in lofty mountain peaks of from 9000 to 12,000 ft. in height, perfectly covered with eternal snow ; the glaciers that descended from near the mountain summits projected many miles into the ocean, and presented a perpendicular face of lofty cliffs. Having taken formal possession of this land in the name of Queen Victoria, Sir James proceeded to trace its coast line. Still steering to the S., early the next Sir James traced Victoria Land from lat. 7 1 to nearly lat. 78 S., when his further progress was interrupted by a barrier of ice, presenting a perpendicular face of 150 ft. in height, and far over-topping the ships masts. This apparently end less and unbroken line of icy wall, is described as one of the most imposing objects imaginable. Although the further progress of the ships was thus arrested, it was not until they had approached the pole more nearly by several hundred miles than any preceding navigator.* Sir James is of opinion that no vegetation exists in these high S. latitudes, no trace of it having been visible on Franklin Island, 12 m. long, and 6 broad, situated in lat. 76 8 S.; Ion. 168 12 E. It would appear, also, that the seas are comparatively shallow in these regions, the soundings of the Erebus and Terror rarely exceeding 400 fathoms, and being more frequently about from 200 to 300. Amongst the more remarkable dis coveries made by this expedition, is that of a permanently low barometric pressure in high S. latitudes over the whole Antarctic Ocean a pressure inferior by more than an inch of mercury to what is found between the tropics. Another, and one of its most important objects, was to ascertain the position of the S. magnetic pole, which Sir James has placed in Victoria Land, in lat. 75 5 S. ; Ion. 154 8 E. It was the opinion of Capt. Cook, and is now ascertained beyond doubt, that the ice of the antarctic predominates greatly over that of the arctic region, that encircling the S. pole coming nearer to the equator by 10 than the ice around the N. pole. The most distinguished explorers of these high S. latitudes are Capt. Cook ; Bellinghausen, who discovered Alexander and Peter s Islands within the antarctic circle ; Capt. Weddcll ; Capt. John Biscoe, the discoverer of Enderby s Land ; Capt. Charles Wilkes, Commander of the U. States exploring expedition, who visited these regions in 1840 ; and Ross and d Urville, in 1841. The extreme points which have been reached by these navigators, in their attempts to penetrate to the S. pole, are as follows : Biscoe, 1831, February 1 ........... Bellin-rhauscn, 1821, January ..... Cook, 1774, January SO .............. Weddell, 18:23, January ............ ROM, 1841, February 2 .............. S. lat. Ion. C8 51 0"... 12 O E. 70 .. 92 W. 71 10 30 ...107 \V. 74 15 ... 35 W. 78 10 ...161 27 W. HEAUFOBT ISLAND AND MOUNT EREBUS. From Sir James Ross s Antarctic Expedit: morning, the 28th, a mountain of 12,400 ft. above the level of the sea was seen emitting flame and smoke in splendid pro fusion. This magnificent volcano (1500 ft. higher than Mount .flCtna) was called Mount Erebus, after one of the ships of the expedition. It is in lat. 77 32 S., and Ion. 167 E. A little further E., another, but extinct volcano was seen, 10,900 ft. high, and named, after the other ship, Mount Terror. (Ross s Antarctic Expedition ; Lyell s Geology.} ANTAREE, a small vil., S.E. Africa, 1. bank Zambesi, which here becomes very narrow, not exceeding 20 or 30 yds. ANT AS, two small rivers, Brazil : 1 , In prov. Sao Pedro do Rio Grande, an affluent of the Taquari. It flows N.E. to S. W., and has a course of about 40 m. 2, In prov. Goyaz, an affluent of the Araguaia, and flowing S.E. to N.W. ANTAS, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 40 m. N.E. from Almeria, in a plain. It has crooked, unpaved streets ; a square, in which are the council-house and prison; and also a parish church, chapel, en dowed school, and a cemetery. The pop., almost exclusively agricultural, is 2300. ANTEQUERA [anc. Anticai-ia], an import ant city, Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 29 m. N.N.W. from Malaga, on the N. slope of the sierra Cabras. The city, which is clean and well built, has eight squares of various sizes and de grees of elegance ; in two of which, named Con- stitucion and San Sebastian, are situated the municipal buildings. Antequera likewise pos sesses six churches, of which that of Santa Maria, a doric edifice, is the finest; an infirmary, poor- house, foundling hospital, a general hospital; two collegiate schools, in which all branches of education are taught; a theological seminary, numerous convents, several hermitages, and an extra-mural cemetery. In the old town, which lies higher up the hill than the modern city, there is a Moorish castle built on Roman * In the Cape of Good U, stated tliat the barque Fngo Shipping Gazette, of July 25, 1840, it is ired by the Colonial Government for a scientific expedition, and commanded by Lieut. Mnore, bad returned to Simon s Bay, after having penetrated further to the S. thaii any other vessel had yet dune, completing the whole, series of masnetio observations left unfinished by Sir James Boss. Lieut. Moore coniirms the existence of the antarctic continent discovered, and culled, by Sir James, South Victoria. ANTHEME (ST.) 1C6 ANTIGUA foundations. It is a quadrangular structure, which has been repaired and remodelled at various times, and presents few attractions of beauty. The city is well supplied with good CALLE BE KSTEl A, ANTKQUEKA. From Baron Tu} lor, Voy:ie Piltorcsque en Esj water from numerous public fountains. The woollen trade is carried on here to some extent, there being eight water- mills for spinning wool and weaving woollen fabrics, chiefly baize, in the manufacture of which numerous handloom weavers are also employed. There are, besides, in Ante- quera, 10 tanneries, an equal number of earthenware fac tories, several dyers ; and silk hats, &c., are manufactured to some extent. The larger number of the inhabitants, how ever, are agricultural. They wear the majo dress, and are very fond of greeii velvets, and gilt filigrane. They raise wheat and barley, some of which is exported; olives, and grapes ; and rear a considerable number of sheep, goats, and pigs ; of horses, mules, asses, and horned cattle. In the neigh bouring plain is a salt lake whence salt is obtained. In 1410, the town was taken from the Moors by the Regent Fernando, who was hence called El In/ante de Antequera. Pop. 17,031 . (Madoz.) ANTHEME (ST.), a tn. France, dep. Puy-de-D6me (Auvergne), 9 m. E. Ambert, and 44 m. S.E. Clermont, on the Ance. Pop. 1003. ANTHONY (CAPE ST.), a cape, S.W. coast, Arabia, prov. Yemen, near the Strait of Bab-el- Mandeb ; lat. 12 41 N.; Ion. 44 10 E. (R.) Its summit is 2772 ft. above the sea. ANTHONY (FALLS OP ST.), a cataract and rapids in the Mississippi, U. States, America, about 2000 m. above the mouth of that river. It is 627 yards wide above the falls, and 209 yards below it. The perpendicular fall is 17 ft. high, with a rapid below of 58 ft. An island divides the river into two parts. The entire descent of the stream for three quarters of a mile is 65 ft. The falls and surrounding scenery, especially during the spring floods, are exceedingly picturesque. ANTHONY (ST.), the name of three parishes, England, co. Cornwall:!, (In Meneage), 1410 ac. ; S. by W. Fal- mouth. Pop. in 1841, 313. 2, (In Jioseland), 710 ac. ; S.W. Tregony. Pop in 1841,- 144. 3, (St. Jacob) , 2860 ac. ; S.E. St. Germains. Pop. in 1841, 2894. ANTIBES, or ANTIBOUL [anc. Antipolis], a flourishing port, France, on a bay in the Mediterranean, dep. Var (Prov ence), near the Piedmontese frontier, and llm. S.S.W. Nice, on the opposite side of the bay. It ranks as a military place of the third class ; its fortifications, erected under Francis I. and Henry IV., and improved by Vauban under Louis XIV., being of considerable strength. The harbour, though of small extent, and encumbered by a sandbank formed by the bar, has about three fathoms water, and is safe and of easy access. It is of a semicircular form, and along the quay is a range of circular arcades. It is defended by a square fort, with four bastions, on a rocky islet at its mouth, and lias two lights to guide the entrance ; one small, on the E. extremity of the mole, and one of the first order on the adjacent promontory of the Galoupe. The only buildings deserving of notice are the parish church, which stands on a lofty rock overhanging the town, and occupies the site of an ancient temple of Diana, near which are two towers, which date two centuries B.C., and the town- house, a handsome edifice. The environs are covered with gardens, vineyards, and orchards. The olive trees are very fine, and the oil which they produce is of superior quality. The figs are delicious and in high repute. Good tobacco also is raised ; while orange trees, Spanish jasmines, various kinds of tuberous-rooted plants, and a profusion of roses and other odoriferous flowers, furnish materials for numerous factories of perfumery and scented waters. The fishery in the bay occupies about 45 vessels belonging to the port, and great numbers of the inhabitants find employment in curing sar dines and anchovies. The chief exports are earthenware and potter s clay, perfumery, salt fish, olive oil, wine, oranges, figs, and citrons. The dried fruits are famous. Antibes was founded 340 years B.C. by Greek colonists from Marseilles, as a barrier against the incursions of the Alpine tribes. The Ilomans enlarged it, and built numerous public buildings ; a fine aqueduct, which conducted the water of a neighbouring spring to the circus, is still in good preservation. Pop. 4515. ANTICOSTI, a large isl. at the mouth of the river St. Lawrence, 125 m. long, and 30 m. broad at its broadest part. It lies between lat. 49V and 49 55 N. ; and Ion. 61 54 and 64 30 W. The original Indian name was Natiseoti, which, by a simple but not very felicitous transposition of letters, has been converted into its present, and far less euphonious name. It has an extremely sterile and unpromising appear ance, being low and swampy on the S. side, and high, rocky, and barren on the N. It is mostly covered with woods of stunted growth, tenanted by bears, foxes, hares, and sables. Partridges, plovers, curlews, and snipes also abound. It has no harbours, but there are a few coves in which ships find tolerable shelter when the wind blows off the land. The island was uninhabited till 1809, when, after some disastrous wrecks had taken place, the governor of Newfoundland erected re sidences for two families at opposite ends of the island, for the purpose of affording relief to those who might be shipwrecked on its shores. A lighthouse also was erected on its S.W. point in 1821, and another afterwards at its E. extremity. The ship channel between the island and Lower Canada is 40 m. broad ; but the navigation is rendered dangerous by num erous shoals and reefs. Provision posts have been established on the island by the government of Lower Canada, for the relief of the crews of vessels wrecked upon the island, and direction boards have been placed at different parts near the beach to intimate where these posts are. The island was first discovered in 1535, by Jacques Cartier. ANTIGUA, one of the N. Caribbee, Leeward, or W. Indian Islands, 50 m. E. St. Kitts, and the same distance N. Guadaloupe, about 28 m. long, and 20 m. broad at its broadest part ; first settled in 1632. Its shores are high and rocky, giving but little promise of the beauty to be found within, consisting of hill and dale, green fields, gorgeous flowers, and cliffs fes tooned with elegant intertropical plants. The shores are in dented on all sides by harbours, bays, and creeks, and lined on the N. and E. coasts with a number of small rocky islets. The only elevated land in the island is a range of hills, called the Sheckerley Mountains, with no great propriety, as their greatest height does not exceed 1500 ft. Several of the har bours are good, but the best is English Harbour, on the S. coast; lat. (dockyard) 17 N. ; Ion. 61 45 7" W. (A.) ; the entrance to it is narrow, but it is capacious and safe, being surrounded with hills. It is a naval station in time of war, and has a well-arranged dockyard. The capital, St. John, the residence of the governor of the Leeward Islands, is built on the shore of a deep and well-sheltered harbour of the same name, in the N.W. part of the island, and is of consider able extent, being about three quarters of a mile in length, ANTIGUA 1C7 ANTIPAEOS and half a mile in breadth ; the houses are of stone, and well built. Pop. about 16,000. The island is divided into six parishes, each of which has a town or village. It contains six churches, as many chapels, and a number of other places of worship belonging to Methodists and other dissenters. The cathedral and parish church of St. John s, a new structure, opened for Divine service in October 1847, cost upwards of 35,000. The climate is healthy, although remarkable for its want of humidity, the droughts being sometimes so protracted as to ruin the crops, and reduce the inhabitants to great dis tress, there being no river in the island, and the few springs it contains being all brackish. On these accounts it is more dependent on the seasons as regards its produce, than any other of the W. Indian Islands. It is subject also to violent BT. JOHN S, ANTIGUA, from the foreground of the Scotch Church From a Drawing l,y E. Pattison, Eeq. hurricanes. One of the most destructive with which it was ever visited occurred on Aug. 21, 1848, when, beside the in jury done to property, many lives were lost. The principal exportable products are sugar, molasses, ruin, rice, arrow-root, and tobacco ; of the last two articles, however, the quantities exported are small. The entire imports of the island, for 1851, amounted to 198,425, and the exports to 219,239 ; | showing a considerable decrease since 1847, when the im ports amounted to 217,998, and the exports to 369,590. The revenue of the island, for 1851, was 218,88, 8s. 8d.; and I the expenditure 2 1,1 93, 17s. I0$d. The legislature not ha v- ! ing yet made any grant for the support of schools, and parents j being unable to do so from the extreme lowness of wages, reduced, in 1848, to Qd. per day for field-work, education has j hitherto made but little progress in the island. The school returns for 1847 show that there were 6493 children under instruction of some kind or other, in that year. A train ing school was opened by the Moravian mission in 1847, into which children are admitted as boarders, and where it is in tended they shall remain until their education is completed, the object being to qualify them for the duties of teachers. The experiment of introducing European agricultural labour ers into the island has been an entire failure, a great portion of them having died or left the island for America. The legislature is composed of a governor, a council of 12, and an assembly of 25 members. The courts of equity and law are the same as in Great Britain. The legislature totally abolished slavery within the island, Aug. 1, 1834, dispensing with the intermediate stage of apprenticeship. The compen sation allowed for the freedom of the slaves, including those of Anguilla, w; x s 425,547, being 14, 12s. 3d. per head. Fop. (1851), including Barbuda, 37,757. ANTILLES. See WEST INDIES. ANTIMO (ST.), a tn. Naples, 7 m. N. the city of Naples, having two churches, some convents, a seminary, Government pawn-offices, several important fairs, and 7100 inhabitants. ANTINGHAM, a par. England, co. Norfolk ; 1530 ac. ; S.W. from N. Walshani. Pop. in 1841, 271. ANTINOE. See ABABDE. ANTIOCH. See ANTAKIA. ANTIOCHE [PERTUIS i) 7 ], a strait, W. coast, France, breadth about 7 m., between Ilochelle and Eochefort, separ ating the isle of Oleron from that of Ee . It was here that, July 15, 1815, Napoleon went on board the lidlerophon. ANTIOCO (SANTO), or ANTICO (SAN), an isl. Sardinian States, S.W. the isl. Sardinia, from which it is separated by the Gulf of Pal mas, and a narrow shallow channel, not navigable for shipping; lat. (S. point) 38 58 N. ; Ion. 8 26 E. (K.) It is about 27 m. in circumference ; 9 m. long, and 2 to 4 m. broad ; soil fertile. It was extremely populous in the time of the Eomans, who called it Enosis. A great number of medals, statues, vases, marble columns, and other monuments of anti quity, have been discovered here. It was once famous for its wild horses, but the race has long been extinct. The chief town, San Antioco, on the E. coast, on the Gulf of Palmas, is a military place, with a small fort. At Calasapone and Calasetta are some salt marshes. Total pop. 2219. ANTIOQUIA, a prov. and tn. New Granada, dep. Cundinamarca. The PROV. lies between lat. 5 40 and 8 N. ; Ion. 75 and 76 30 W. It is watered by the Cauca ; is moun tainous and extensively wooded ; a very small portion being in grass, or under tillage. Gold and silver are the principal products ; but iron, copper, tin, and lead are also found, though either not worked at all, or only to a very limited extent. The negroes and Zamboes were formerly numerous in the mining districts of this province, but both races have been much reduced by the war of independence. The TOWN, pro perly named Santa Fe de Antio- quia, lies on the Cauca, in a deep burning-hot valley, 1790 ft. above the sea; lat. 6 36 N.; Ion. 76 W. The houses and churches are pretty well built, and the inhabitants are lively, active, and naturally given to handicrafts, making good watch-makers, carpenters, and lock smiths. The town is surrounded by maize and sugar planta tions ; and though the heat is great, yet the air is dry and healthy, and the plague of tropical insects is not felt. Pop. in 1807, 18,680; now stated at 4000. ANTIPAROS [anc. Oliaros], a rocky islet, Grecian Ar chipelago, about 16 in. in circumference, W. of Paros, from which it is separated by a strait 1 to 2 m. wide; lat. (S. point) 36 56 N. ; Ion. 25 5 E. (R.) The island is in general flat, con taining only a few eminences of no great elevation. Its soil is fertile, and in good cultivation, producing cotton, barley, and grapes. It has one small village, inhabited by about ANTI PAXO IG3 ANTONIO (SANT) 100 families, with a harbour suited only for small craft; was anciently peopled by a colony of Sidonians, and was the birth place of Phidias and Praxiteles. The wonderful grotto, which has rendered the island famous in modern times, is situated in a high hill about 2 m. from the sea, and 500 ft. from the surface of the ground. The entrance is by a large natural arch of rugged rock, overhung with a variety of trailing plants. The descent into the grotto is effected by the aid of ladders, ropes, and torches. The principal cavern is 120 yards long, by 113 broad, with an average height of 60 yards. It is an immense marble afch, the roof and sides of which are covered with stalactites, and innumerable crystallizations, assuming the various figures of columns, screens, ramifications of trees, and festoons of flowers, the magnificence of which dazzles the eye, and seems almost to realize the idea of the enchanted halls of fable. The stalactite and stalagmite pillars are of great length and thickness. The former, dependent from the roofs, sometimes meet with the latter rising from the floor, and thus form a continuous pillar apparently giving support to the arch. One stalagmite is stated to be of the great thick ness of 20 ft. ANTI PAXO, one of the smallest of the Ionian Isles ; lat 39 8 42" N.; Ion. 20 5 45" E. (R.) ; about 1$ or 2 m. S. S.E. Paxo. It is 2 m. in length, and half a mile in breadth ; produces the olive, grape, and otlier fruits. ANT1PHELLUS, now ANDIPHILO, a small seaport tn. Asiatic Turkey, territory of Lycia, on the Mediterranean, 39 m. S.E. Telmissus or Makrai ; lat. 36 15 N. ; Ion. 29 40 E. It has an active trade in firewood, and contains the houses of several official persons. The ancient town of Antiphellus stood at a short distance, on a finely-situated promontory, which still presents a theatre, tombs, foundations of temples, and other buildings. Many of the tombs have remained unopened dur ing the 2000 years they have existed; others have been pil laged. Many of them are highly ornamented with architectural designs. The form of the sarcophagus found here is peculiar to the district of Lycia. (Fellows Asia Minor.} ANTIPODES ISLAND, a small isl. in the S. Pacific Ocean, about 760 m. S.E. by E. the middle island of New Zealand, and so called from its being nearly antipodal to Green wich, the latter being in lat. 51 28 6" N. ; Ion. 0"; the former, or Antipodes Island, in lat. 49 35 S. ; Ion. 179 30 E. ANTISAN A, a volcano in the Andes of Quito, 35 m. S.E. by E. the city of that name, and 80 m. N.N.E. Chimborazo; lat. 29 45" S. , Ion. 78 24 30" W. Its height is estim ated at 19,137 ft. Antisana is not known to have had any considerable eruption for the last 260 years. When visited by Humboldt, in 1802, smoke was seen issuing from several openings, and an appearance resembling a current of lava was observed by that illustrious person near the summit, while on the slope of the mountain pumice-stone and scoriae were noticed. There is a village or hamlet of the same name on the mountain, 3800 ft. above the plain of Quito, and 13,454 ft. above the sea, being, with exception of the village of Tacora in Peru, and tbat of Calamarca in Bolivia, the highest congregation of houses known on the face of the globe, although there are several post stations in Peru at a much greater elevation. ANTI VAKI, a tn. European Turkey, in Albania, on tho Adriatic, 17 m. W. Scutari; lat. (W. point) 42 2 18" N. ; loii. 19 6 30" E. (n.) It is built on a rocky eminence, about 2 m. from the sea, on the banks of the small river Eichanatz ; is the see of a K. catholic archbishop; contains nearly 1000 houses, a bazaar with 100 shops, and is defended by a castle. At the mouth of the river is a harbour for light vessels, by which a considerable trade in exporting oil and leather is carried on. Pop., composed of Turks and Christians, 4000. ANTOINE (ST.), the common name of at least 16 villages in France, but the only one worthy of notice is a tn. and com., dep. Isere (Dauphine), on the Furand, among mountains, about 27 m. W. Grenoble. The only object of importance is tho celebrated abbey of the same name, belonging to the Augustine order. It was founded in the 13th century, and its church, an interesting and fine edifice, is in good preservation. Some silk stuffs are manufactured here. Pop. 2007. ANTOING, a tn. Belgium, near the French frontier, cap. can. of same name, prov. Hainaut, rather more than 2 m. W.N.W. Tournay, on an eminence which overhangs the r. hank of the Scheldt, and commands a view of the battle-field of Fontenoy. The only buildings of note are the church of St. Peter, the hospital, and the old castle of the Princes of Ligne, with a very lofty tower. The high road from MODS to Tournay passes through the commune, and the canal of Antoing enables Mons to communicate with the Scheldt with out entering the French territory. The manufactures are earthenware and salt. Linseed and rapcsecd are crushed for oil, and a good deal of chicory is prepared. Pop. 2104. ANTONG1L BAY, Madagascar, E. coast, 290 m. S. Cape Amber or Ambro ; 50 m. in length S. to N., and about 25 m. in width at the entrance. The depth of water in the bay decreases, as the head is approached, to 30, 25, 20, and 15 fathoms. The common anchorage is to the N. or W. of Isle Morossc, a small island at the head of the bay. Wood and water are readily procured here. There is an excellent har bour also, called by the French Port Choiseul, where ships may anchor in 6 or 7 fathoms. ANTONIE (ST.), a vil. Holland, prov. N. Brabant, 25 m. E.S.E. Hertogenbosch (Bois le Due), on the E. edge of the Peel. It has a E. catholic church, and 9GO inhabitants. ANTONIN (ST.), the name of several places in France; but the only one of any note, a tn. dep. Taru-et-Garonne, in a spacious valley at the junction of the small stream Bonnet! e with the Aveyron. The town is, in general, ill built, but the E. portion contains large building dedicated to St. Genevieve, occupied by the civic authorities and the gendarmery. In the vicinity, on a lofty precipice above the Aveyron, stand the picturesque ruins of the castle of Adelays. The manu facture of leather, paper, woollens, and serges, is carried on. Pop. 2691. ANTONINA, a small port, Brazil, prov. Silo-Paulo, on the Itapema creek, S. side the Bay of Paranagua, from the city of which name it is distant N.W. about 10 m. ; lat. 25 29 S. ; Ion. 47 40 W. It has a church and a school, and is favourably situated as to salubrity, in comparison with some neighbouring places. A road across the hills commu nicates with the town of Curitiba, whence goods are brought on mules to a river, along which they are transported in canoes to Antonina. The trade of the town consists in rice, mandioca flour, dried beef, hides, building timber, and cord age. The port, which is protected from the winds, and may be entered at all times, has 21 ft. of water. Pop. of town and district above 6000. (Die. Geo. Imp. Brazil.) ANTONIO (Pom-), isl. Jamaica, 6 m. W. from the N.E. end; lat. 18 11 18" N.; Ion. 76 27 W. (R.) It lies 30 m. N.E. Kingston, and is composed of the E. and the W. har bour, divided by a peninsula on which stands the town of Titchfield, N. of which is Navy Island. The E. harbour has good holding ground for anchorage in 9 to 1 1 fathoms water, but is not so secure as the W. harbour, being more exposed to the N. winds, but its channel is broader, and not so difficult to take. The W. harbour has good anchorage in 5 to 7 fathoms. ANTONIO (SAN). 1, A cape, Spain, in Valencia, one of the most E. points of prov. Alicante, and forming the N. ex tremity of the Bay of Jabea. It is high, naked, and precip itous. On the table land at its summit are several wind mills, a small convent, and a watch-tower; lat. 38 48 5" N.; Ion. 10 E. (E.) 2, A cape, isl. Cuba, W. end. It is low, and covered with wood; lat. 21 51 30" N.; Ion. 84 57 2" W. (R.) 3, A cape, Brazil, at the entrance to the Bay of Bahia; lat. 13 42" S.; Ion. 38 31 45" W. (R.) There is a light on this point 140 ft. high. 4, A cape, Buenos Ayres, at the mouth of the Kio de la Plata, S. side. It is high and steep, and rises almost perpendicularly from the sea; lat. 36 19 S. ; Ion. 56 45 W. (u.) 5, A peak, and N.E. cape on the Kurile, isl. Kunashir. 6, A port, isl. Ivica or Iviza, N.W. side; lat. 39 24" N.; Ion. 1 14 E. (R.) It has anchorage for large vessels. 7, A large port or bay, Pata gonia, with anchorage for large vessels ; lat. 40 49 S. ; Ion. 64 54 W. (R.) ANTONIO (SANT), the most N.,and one of the largestof the Cape de \erde Islands; lat. (N. point) 17 12 N. ; Ion. 25 5 7" W. It is of great height, its loftiest summit attain ing an elevation of 7400 ft. above the surface of the sea, and may be seen in clear weather from a distance of nearly 90 m. This, however, is rarely the case, as it is almost always covered by a dense atmosphere. It is extremely fertile, pro ducing large quantities of corn, archil, and cotton. The coast ANTONIO DE BEXAR (S 1G9 ANTRODOCO all around is clear, and although there are no ports in the island, there are several anchorages, one of which is Tarrafal Bay, 011 the W. side, where excellent fresh water may be ob tained. The best anchorage here is in 35 to 39 fathoms, about one-third of a mile off shore, soft bottom. Pop. about 4000. ANTONIO DE BEXAR (SAN), frequently called simply Bexar by the inhabitants, a principal city, and once cap. of Texas, on the river of the same name, which runs through the town, and is here upwards of 60 ft. wide % and 12 ft. deep, 80 m. S.W. Austin. The town is said to be the most pleasant and interesting in Texas ; laid out and built with some atten tion to regularity. The houses are of stone, of one story in height, have thick walls, and but few windows. The climate is pure, dry, and healthy; and as little rainfalls here, the rich and fertile river-margins are intersected by numerous irrigat ing canals, so that even in the driest season a good crop is ob tained. Peaches, melons, and other fruits are cultivated with success. Although it has suffered severely from revolutionary commotions, and from the irruptions of the Indians, it is still a place of considerable trade. Pop. at one period 12,000, now about 3000. The San Antonio River abounds in fish, and is navigable for canoes to its source, and for small steamboats to within 10 m. of La Bahia del Espiritu Santo, now called Goliad. ANTRIM, a maritime co. Ireland, prov. Ulster, bounded, E. by the N. Channel, W. by co. Londonderry and Lough Neagh, N. by the Atlantic, and S. by co. Down and Belfast Lough. It extends about 55m. N. to S.; and in general breadth, from E. to W., about 28 m. It comprises 761,877 ac., of which 176,335 are mountain and bog, 503,288 arable, and 53,288 water ; the remainder is in plantations, and occupied by towns. One-third of the co. is mountainous, but nowhere rises more than 1810 ft. above high sea level. Estates here are gener ally large, but the farms, except in the hilly districts, are small. Improved implements and practices have been ex tensively introduced. The principal agricultural productions are potatoes, barley, and oats. Wheat, pease, beans, and flax, are also cultivated, but to a comparatively small extent; the last, in particular, has much fallen off. EXTENT OF LAND UNDKR CROPS IN 1848. Acr. s. Wlieat 11,296 Oats 100 ; 8t9 Barley, Here, and Rye 3.319 Pease and Beans 4,540 Potatoes 37,699 Turnips 10,991 Manguld-wimel, Carrots. Pursncps, am! Cabliage 1,920 Flax : ". 2,895 Meadow and Clover 54,054 Total under crops 227,573 The cattle are of small size, but the breed has been much improved by crossing with Dutch, Leicester, and Ayrshire stock. Not much attention is paid to sheep, but in the moun tain pastures are fed numerous herds of goats. Pigs are reared in great numbers; and on these the small farmers and cottars, who also employ themselves in domestic linen-weaving, chiefly depend for the payment of their rents. During the salting season, from September to May, the number of swine brought to market is immense; and the bacon and pork of many thousands are annually exported from Belfast. The staple manufactures of the county are the spinning of linen and cotton yarn, and linen and cotton weaving, in which the great bulk of the population are engaged. The fishery districts are Ballycastle and Carrickfergus, comprising 121 m. of maritime boundaries, which, in 1849, had 636 registered vessels, em ploying 2061 men and boys. Coals have been found in the former district ; but the most remarkable feature in the geo logical structure of this county is the stupendous range of basaltic columnar strata, forming, at one part, the celebrated Giant s Causeway, about 8 m. N.E. Coleraine, and extending almost the whole length of the N. coast. (Sec GIANT S CAUSE WAY.) Of these perpendicular basaltic columns, magnificent specimens are also seen at the promontories of Bengore and Fairhead. The latter consists of a range of tremendous rocks and precipices, attaining in some places an elevation of G36 ft. The lower portion is an inclined plane, strewn with huge masses of rock, thrown together in the wildest confusion; cbove this rises a mural precipice of columnar greenstone, 320 ft. in height, the whole presenting a scene of surpassing VOL. I. randcur and sublimity. The sea coast is diversified by succession of projecting precipitous cliffs, here and there THE FAIR HEAD, ANTRIM From the Picturesque Annual. broken by bays and creeks. The county is divided into M baronies, and comprehends 75 parishes, and parts of parishes, and returns six members to Parliament; two for the county at large (constituency, January 1, 1849, 1314) ; two for Belfast orough, and one for each of the boroughs of Carrickfergus and Lisburn. No county of Ireland includes a larger pro portion of Presbyterian Protestants than Antrim, many of horn are descended from natives of Scotland ; and the people of this part of the country have the character of being the most quiet, industrious, and orderly of the whole population of Ireland. The principal towns are Belfast, Carrickfergus, Lisburn, Larne, Eandalstown, Ballymena, and Ballymoney. ANTRIM is also the name of two baronies, Upper Antrim and Lower Antrim, and of a par., all in co. Antrim. Upper Antrim contains 36,493 ac. ; pop. in 1841, 15,629. Lower Antrim contains 80,827 ac. ; pop. in 1841, 25,135. Area of par. 8884 ac.; pop. in 1841, 5182. Pop. of co. in(1851),352,264. ANTRIM, a market tn. Ireland, cap. co. Antrim, pleasantly situated on the Six-Mile-Water, at the N.E. extremity of Lough Neagh, 15m. N. by W. Belfast, and 18m. W. Carrick fergus. It consists of two principal streets, with several smaller diverging. The houses are mostly of stone, and well built. The supply of water is abundant. The parish church is a modern Gothic structure, with a lofty square embattled tower, surmounted by an elegant octagonal spire. There are, besides, several places of worship for dissenters, a meeting house for the Society of Friends, a R. catholic chapel, and several schools of different descriptions; a mendicity society, a branch savings -barik, and a union workhouse. Antrim carries on a considerable trade in bleaching, and in the weav ing of linen, calico, and hosiery. In the neighbourhood are two paper-mills, where the first machinery used in the N. of Ireland for making paper was introduced ; also several flour and meal mills, and malt kilns, as well as a brewery. About half a mile from the town is the celebrated round tower of Antrim. It is 95 ft. in height, and in good preservation. The doorway is placed at an elevation of about 12 ft. from the ground, is but four ft. four inches in height, and is con structed of large blocks of coarse-grained basalt, found in the neighbourhood. This doorway is remarkable in having a pierced cross, within a circle, sculptured in rilievo on the stone immediately over the lintel, in evidence, it has been presumed, that these towers were regarded as sanctuaries. Pop. in 1841, 2645. ANTRODOCO, a tn. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra II., dist. of, and 9 m. E. from Citta Ducale, 17 rn. N.W. Aquila, ANTROS 170 ANTWERP having a church, and two convents. It is the centre of a considerable agricultural district, and has four important annual fairs. Top. 3450. ANTROS, a small isl. or rock, W. coast, France, at the mouth of the Gironde, on which is the well-known lighthouse called the Tower of Cordouan, esteemed one of the most ele gant structures of the kind in Europe; it exhibits a revolving light of the first class, the elevation of which, above the level of the sea, is 207 ft., and maybe seen, in clear weather, at the distance of 24 m.; lat. 45 35 2" N.; Ion. 1 10 2" W. (R.) ANTUCO, a volcano and valley, Chilian Andes, 140 m. E. Conception ; lat. 26 50 S. ; Ion. 70 40 W. The volcano, according to Lyell and Mrs. Sommerville, is 16,000 ft. high. Immense currents of lava have at various periods issued from the mountain, the last discharge occurring in 1828. This event is said to be an exception to the general rule ; few volcanoes in the Andes, and none of those in Quito, having been seen in modern times to pour out lava, but having merely ojected vapour or scoriae. (Lyell s Geology, p. 332.) The VALLEY is remarkable for the mildness of its climate, and the beauty of its plants and flowers. ANTURA, a vil. Syria, pash. of, and 80 m. N.N.E. from Acre, about 5 m. from the coast ; lat. 32 55 N. ; Ion. 35 52 E. It contains a convent and a church. ANTURLI, or ANTOORLEE, a vil. Hindoostan, prov. and dist.Candeish, 10m. S.W. Boorhaunpoor, formerly surrounded by a mud wall, with brick bastions. ANTWERP [German, Antwerpen; French, Anvcrs], a city and port, Belgium, cap. prov. and arrond. of same name, r. bank, Scheldt, 27f m., by rail, N. Brussels, and 32 m. E.N.E. Ghent; lat. (Cathedral) 51 13 12" N. ; Ion. 4 24 15" E. (R.); about 12 m. above the estuary of the Scheldt, and about 50 from the open sea. It is situated at an abrupt bend in the river, which here is about a quarter of a mile wide, with an average depth of 30 ft. ; its limits landward, as marked by its fortifications, form the segment of a circle, of which the Scheldt is the chord. It is strongly fortified, its walls and other defences completely encompassing the city on the land side from the river on the N., to the citadel on the S., a distance, following the line of fortification, and including the citadel, of about 2 m. The latter, one of the finest and most complete defences of the kind anywhere existing, was built by the Duke of Alva, in 1567. It is a regular pentagon, sur rounded by a wet ditch, 90 ft. broad ; and has three bastions, each containing a casemate capable of holding 400 men. The other works were erected partly by Philip II., in 15G7, and partly by Philip V., King of Spain, in 1701. Outworks and forts extend along both sides the river to near the Dutch frontier. The general appearance of the city is exceedingly picturesque an effect produced by its numerous churches, convents, magnificent public buildings, its elaborate and ex tensive fortifications, the profusion of beautiful trees with which it is adorned, and in no small degree, also, by the stately antique-looking houses which line its older thorough fares. The entire breadth of the city, at the widest part, which is between the walls and the river, or from E. to W., is about three quarters of a mile ; its greatest length, between the citadel on the W., and the fortifications on the E., is about If- m., including the esplanade or Place d Armes on the one hand, and the great and small basins on the other. Nearly all the streets, of which there are altogether about 200, are exceedingly tortuous and irregular ; so much so, that a stranger has much difficulty in finding his way. Still, many of them, from the elegance of their buildings, are imposing. The principal one, called Place de Meir, will bear comparison with any street in Europe. The squares, of which there are several, are also fine. At the head of the numerous public buildings with which the city is adorned, stands the cathedral, one of ANTWERP CATHEDRAL, FROM THE EGG MARKET. From ProufB Sketches in France and Germany. the largest and most beautiful specimens of Gothic architec ture in Belgium. It is believed to have been commenced in the middle of the 13th century, and to have taken 84 years to finish. It was burnt in 1533, but the tower and choir were preserved. The exterior is distinguished by the delicacy and elaborate beauty of the workmanship, and the interior by au ANTWERP 171 ANURADHAPURA imposing simplicity. The height of the spire has been vari ously stated from 366 ft. up to 466 ft. The entire length of the huilding is said to be 500 ft., and the breadth 250. The object of greatest interest and attraction in this church is the celebrated masterpiece of Rubens, the Descent from the Cross. The other churches of note are St. James s, St. An drew s, and St. Paul s. The first is a very handsome struc ture, surpassing even the cathedral in its internal decorations. Behind the high altar is the tomb of Rubens, who resided in Antwerp from his 10th year till his death, in 1540. It is covered by a slab of white marble, on which is a long inscrip tion, let into the pavement. St. Andrew s contains a carved pulpit, of exquisite workmanship. All these three churches are enriched with paintings by Rubens, Vandyck, Teniers, and other masters. The churches of St. Michael, of the Carmelites, Augustines, and Jesuits, may also be named as fine edifices. Amongst the other public buildings are the Exchange, built in 1583, and said to have been a model for the old London Exchange, and for that of Amsterdam, neither of which, however, equalled it; the Hotel de Ville, a splendid edifice of marble, rebuilt in 1581; the Maison Anseatic or Hall of the Hanse Towns, a large and magnificent structure ; and the palace, intended for the King and royal family, when they reside at Antwerp. Its institutions comprise academies of painting, of the fine arts, and of the sciences ; a gallery of sculpture ; a picture-gallery, with 200 pictures, many of them the finest works of the first masters of the Flemish school ; a public library, with 1 5,000 volumes ; a botanical garden, and numerous learned societies and schools ; and several hospitals, asylums, and workhouses. The quay along the Scheldt forms a pleasant promenade, being spacious, and finely shaded by elms. Of the docks, dockyards, and basins, constructed by Bonaparte, at an expense, it is said, of 2,000,000, the last only remain, the former having been demolished after his downfall. The area of the great basin is 17 ac., and that of the small one 7. They are now converted into commercial docks, and are lined with capacious warehouses. The harbour thus formed, is one of the finest in the world. It admits ves sels of any size, and can easily hold a thousand. The prin cipal manufactures of the city are black silks and velvets, for which it is particularly famed. Cotton, linen, lace, carpets, hats, and cutlery, are also manufactured to a considerable extent. There are also sugar refineries, and a good deal of shipbuilding. The trade and commerce of Antwerp are ex tensive ; and for hides, it is one of the most important markets in Europe. The number of foreign vessels that arrived there in 1846 was 1970; tonn. 286,474. Of these 359 were English, 704 German, 375 Danish, and the remainder other foreigners. Besides these, there arrived Belgian ships 243 ; tonn. 42,813. Total, 2213; tonn. 329,287. In 1839, the number of ships that entered the port was only 1182, of which 337 were English, and the whole tonn. 202,038. The exports chiefly consist of hides, flax, cotton and linen manufactured goods; glass, zinc, oak bark, grain, and seeds; lace, refined sugar (in 1847, 187,092 cwt.), candied sugar (in 1847, 23,632 cwt.) The principal imports are hides, cofi ee, sugar, cotton stuffs, and other manufactured goods ; corn, raw cotton, leather, timber, tobacco, wool, rice, dye-stuffs, salt, wine, fruits, &c. The following list exhibits the quantities imported, in 1846 and 1847, of a few of the principal articles : ARTICLES. 1847. 1846. Skins 675,609 541,400 Coffee 278,038 bales 253,000 bales Cotton 30,800 30,950 f Carolina 1,611 bushels Aracan 22,092 Madras 11,160 Rice \ Piedmont 15,833 Ports of Europe 166,784 \ -tr -i, ( 230 tons (.Manilla j 2,600 bags Dyewoods 1,794 tons ( 121,650 cases Sugar (Raw) 1 50,500 bags ( 1,900 ban-els ( 5,074 Tobacco J 1,180 bales ( 800 seroons A large proportion of the imports are only transit, and are forwarded with the utmost facility by means of canals and railways. The passenger traffic of Antwerp is also very con siderable, between 4000 and 5000 arriving annually, from 60,000 cases 21,600 bags 3,050 ban-els 11,306 2,791 bales 415 seroons England, by the steam-packets, of which there are nine ply ing between Antwerp, Hull, and London. It has, moreover, become an important point of embarkation for emigrants, 2961 having sailed from this port in 1844, 5275 in 1845, and 15,170 in 1846. Ships of the largest burden come up to the town, there being from 32 to 40 ft. water in the river at ebb tide, with a rise at springs of from 12 to 14 ft. Antwerp is a very ancient city, and had a much larger popu lation, and a much more extensive foreign trade, in the 15th and 1 6th centuries, than now. Its inhabitants then numbered 200,000, and 2000 vessels entered the port annually. Its first reverse occurred in 1576, when it was pillaged for three entire days by the Spaniards ; nine years afterwards, it was besieged for 14 months by the Prince of Parma ; and in 1648, the navigation of the Scheldt was closed in accordance with the terms of the peace of Westphalia, which, added to other calamities, completed the ruin of the city. In 1794 it fell into the hands of the French, and was surrendered by them to the allies in 1814. On the revolt of the Belgian provinces in 1830, the Dutch garrison, consisting of 4500 men, commanded by General Chasse, refused to evacuate the citadel, and continued to hold it for the King of the Nether lands. To compel the evacuation, the fortress was invested in 1832 by the French, under Marshal Gerard, and taken 24 days after the trenches were opened. Pop. about 79,000. (Meert s Belgigue; Allgemdne EncyUopiidie; Moniteur dcs Indes.) ANTWERP, a prov. Belgium, bounded, N. by Holbnd, E. by prov. Limburg, S. by S. Brabant, and W. by E. Flanders ; length, about 40 m. ; breadth, about 30 ; area, about 620,000 ac. It is divided into three arrondissements, Ant werp, Mechlin, and Turnhout; and these are subdivided into 22 cantons, containing 145 communes, among which are the four principal towns or cities, Antwerp, Mechlin, Lierre, and Turnhout. Since 1830, it has formed one of the nine prov inces into which the kingdom of Belgium, then erected, has been divided, sending four members to the Senate, and nine to the Representative Assembly. The province is almost an uninterrupted flat, composed chiefly of fertile soil, but partly also of an extensive tract, called Campine, consisting of heath and barren moor, with some woods of fir. It is bordered, W. by the Scheldt, and intersected by the Great Nethe, the Moll- Nethe, the Little Nethe, the Dyle, the Ruppel, the Senne, and several smaller streams. The soil is in genera light and sandy, with a wet clay subsoil, but is by no means unfertile. Good crops of wheat, rye, barley, buckwheat, pulse, rape, flax, hemp, hops, madder, chicory, beet, potatoes, sain foin, and lucerne, are raised ; and fruit, also, of every kind, and a good deal of tobacco. In 1841, the number of acres under cultivation was about 394,000. Cattle, sheep, and horses, are reared in considerable numbers ; fish abound in the streams, and honey, of excellent quality, is produced throughout the district. The trade, both internal and external, is very im portant. The principal manufactures are lace, tulle, cotton, linen, woollen, and silk stuffs; soap, spirits, ale, and beer; tobacco, refined sugar and salt, leather, and oil. Numerous printfields produce goods which vie with those of Switzerland, Germany, France, and England. The agriculture and manu factures of the province have been considerably improved, by several establishments, for the employment of prisoners and mendicants, and by the formation of what is called the free colony of Wortel, occupying an extensive moorland tract between Antwerp and Turnhout. Still more important im provements have been effected by the increased facilities of transport, both by land and water. The canal of Willebroek carries its produce to the capital ; while more recently, the railway from Antwerp to Mechlin or Mai hies, has brought it into immediate connection with all the great towns and mineral and manufacturing districts in the S., E., and W. Pop. in 1826, 330,125; in 1844, 365,173. (Meert s Bdgique.) ANURADHAPURA, or ANARAJAPOORA, the anc. cap. isl. Ceylon, but now a mass of ruins. It lies about 45 in. S.E. Aripo, and 48 m. N. Dambool, on the road between these two places, about lat. 8 20 N. ; Ion. 79 37 E. A few native huts now contain all the inhabitants of this once densely pop ulated city; and it is questionable if even these would long remain in the place, were not Anuradhapura the seat of a district court, and a Government agency. The country around is desolate unhealthy, and naturally uninteresting; and the ANURADHAPURA 172 ANZIN ruins are surrounded by dense masses of jungle. The walls ! roofed with inetal in place of tiles. To particularize all tlio of Anuradliapura were built about the year A.I). 60, and their remains still exist. They enclose a space of 16 in. sq., or an area of 250 sq. m., and are built due N. and S., E. and W. In this vast space, besides the buildings of the city, there were of course included extensive gardens, water-courses, &c. The ruins are characterized by an immense number of stone pillars, generally square, which meet the eye on every side ; carved stones in great multitudes, some in the form of bullocks, and of lions heads, and portions of sculptured . , - , columns lie scattered about in all directions, evidencing the | that in all these interesting remains of Singhalese art, and state of refinement to which the inhabitants of this once pop- j evidences of Singhalese refinement and power, the more ulous city had attained. The main streets appear to have | ancient structures are decidedly superior to those of a more been as broad as the widest streets in London at the present modern date. Anuradliapura appears to have been founded day. One of the earliest existing buildings, which excellent state of preservation, is the Thupharamaya Dag- ohah,* erected B.C. 307. It consists of a dome-shaped mass interesting remains of this city, would greatly exceed our limits. We cannot, however, pass over in silence the Ruan- welle Dagobah, originally 270 ft. high, and standing on a platform paved with granite, 500 ft. square ; nor the granite trough, said to have been made for Dutugaimoni, for the pur pose of holding his elephants food, and at which six of these animals might feed without incommoding each other, com posed of a single block of stone, and having an excavation 9 ft. long by 4 broad, and 2^ deep. It is to be remarked, about B.C. 540, by Anuradha, a follower of Wijeya, who had VAGOUAH OF THUPHARAMAYA. From Mnjor ForUs s Ceylon. of brickwork, surmounted by a tapering spire, and standing on a square-flagged platform. The entire erection is about 50 ft. high. It is surrounded by long, slender, well-propor tioned columns, each consisting of two blocks of granite, the one forming a square base and octagonal shaft, both together about 22 ft. long; the other forming the capital, richly decor ated with small human figures standing round the lower part of the projecting ornament, and adding about 2 ft. to the height of the pillars. There were originally 108 of these pillars, standing in four rows, on the platform round the dagobah. This dagobah, though by no means the largest, is the most elegant structure of the kind in the city, and is, besides, one of the finest extant remains of Singhalese art. Probably the most remarkable ruins in this ancient capital, are the remains of the numerous pillars which formerly sup ported the Lowa Maha Paya or brazen palace for the priests ; one of the largest buildings that ever existed in the East, and built 150 years before our era, by Dutugaimono. It was 225 ft. square, and of the same height, supported by 1600 stone pillars, forming a square, with 40 on each side. The pillars are nearly all standing, though in very various states of preservation; time, and the wants of some of the later monarchs, having made great havoc among them. They are generally about 12 ft. high, those in the centre being twice as thick as those outside. From the small interspaces it is evi dent they were intended to be built upon; and history informs us, that, when first erected, the Lowa Maha Paya consisted of nine stories in height, each containing 100 apartments. In the centre of this palace stood an ivory throne, having a re presentation of the sun, in gold, on the one side; a similar emblem of the moon, in silver, on the other; and above, the stars, in pearl. It was called the brazen palace, from being itacle of a re ic. Dagobahs -; their characteristic lorm * From D/iutu-garba, the womb are monumental tombs of the relics is bell-shaped, surmounted by a small spire; and, in small cell or hollow stone in the centre, they contain ornaments or emblems of Buddhist wor ship, such as pearls, precious stones, figures of Buddha, &c. (Knighton s History ofCei/lan.j shortly before invaded the island. It was greatly enlarged and improved by the usurper Pandukabhayo, who, in B.C. 437, made it the capital of the island. He appointed 500 chandalas, or people of low caste, to be scavengers in the city; 200 to be night men, 150 to be carriers of corpses, and an equal number to be engaged at the cemetery. In the year B.C. 307, in the reign of Tisso, the sacred Bo-tree of Gotamo was transported from the banks of the Ganges to this place. From this period to the Christian era, and for three centuries thereafter, the city seems to have been in its most flourishing condition. The first blow to its prosperity appears to have come from the wavering monarch Mahasen, who reigned in the third century. He became attached to the heterodox Buddhistic sect, and employed his power in the destruction of the great buildings occupied by the more numerous and more orthodox community. Subsequently his opinion changed, and he endeavoured to restore what he had formerly destroyed. Its prosperity received a further check in the fifth century, from a 24 years struggle between several Malabar invaders and the royal race. It was finally deserted by the royal line in the year A.D. 769. An unsuccessful attempt was made to restore it by a Singhalese monarch, in the llth century. (W. Knighton, in Jour. Asiatic JSoc., Bengal, 1847.) ANWICK.apar. England, co. Lincoln; 1820 ac.; E.N.E. Sleaford. Pop. in 1841, 314. ANWOTH, a par. Scotland, co. Kirkcudbright ; 9023 ac.; contains two ancient structures, the castle of Cardonnes, and tower of llusco. Pop. in 1841, 883. ANXIOUS BAY, S. Australia, having Cape Radstock, lat. 32 12 S. ; Ion. 134 15 E. (K.), on the N. W., and Walde- grave Point on the S.E., 125 m. N.W. from the entrance into Spencer s Gulf. ANZA, a river, Sardinian States, Piedmont, having its source in the glaciers, on the E. side of Monte Rosa ; it tra verses the beautiful though narrow vale of Anzasca, in a direction E. by N., and falls into the Toce near Vogogna, after a course of about 20 in. The scenery along its banks is exceedingly picturesque. There are several mills on, it for crushing the ore obtained from the gold mines in the vicinity. The inhabitants of the valley of Anzasca are re markable for cleanliness and industry; and the females espe cially, for the beauty and symmetry of their persons. ANZASCA VAL. See ANZA. ANZI, a tn. Naples, prov. Basilicata, dist. of, and 12 m. E. from Potenza, on a high mountain. It had its name of Ance or Anza from the Romans, and was famous for its impregnable position. It has a parish church, and a convent. Pop. 3297. ANZIN, a tn. France, dep. Creuse (Flanders), about 1 m. N.W. Valenciennes, in the centre of the most valuable coal mines of France. The coal field of the surrounding district is a very extensive tract; but what is properly called the Concession of Anzin includes about 118 k. (518 sq. m.), and is worked by 11 coal pits, giving employment to 2000 persons, of whom nearly two thirds are miners, and raising annually about 3,361,452 bushels of coal. Some of the pits at Anzin are 1 50 fathoms deep. The seams are very numerous. About 50 have been counted, with a thickness varying from 3 ft. to 30. The coal is of a rich caking quality, in general tolerably free from sulphur, well adapted for the smithy. The ample supply of fuel has led to the establishment of numerous public works at Anzin one blast furnace, several forges, with ap paratus for making chains and iron plates ; glassworks, brew eries, distilleries, salt-refineries, and works for firebricks. A good deal of chicory, also, is prepared. Pop. 3132. ANZO 173 APENNINES ANZO, or ANZIO [anc. Antium], a small seaport tn. Italy, W., according to Wilkes. Commander of the U. States exploi- Papal States, 31 m. S.S.E. Rome. It is beautifully situated, ing expedition. It is about 5 ft. above the surface of the water, and enjoys a mild, agreeable climate. The ancient port, built , and is 10 m. long by 5 m. in breadth. There is anchorage on by Nero, still exists, but has decreased in depth from sanding up; still having, however, 2J to 3 fathoms. A second port, formed by a jetty, built by Innocent XII., is so shallow as the S. side, the soundings varying from 2 to 5 fathoms, with a broken coral and coral sand bottom. It has a large popula tion, but yields little more than supplies their wants. small quantity of fresh water may be had by digging on tho beaches, but neither wood nor refreshments are procurable to admit only of small boats. Its commerce is small, and inhabitants few. It was a favourite Roman watering-place, and Uie birthplace of Nero and Caligula. In and around Anzo for shipping. Apamama is also known by the names of Simp- are many fine ancient architectural remains. | son and Hopper Island. ANZUAN, or HIUZUAN, an isl. Mozambique Channel, i APANORMIA, or APONORMERIA, a tn., N.W. coast See JOUANNAH. i isl. Santorin, Grecian Archipelago, 7 m. N.W. Scauro ; lat. AOE, or AUR (Pulo), a small isl. in the China Sea, off tl.o ! 36 3S N.; Ion. 25 28 E. The only landing place in thu E. coast of the Malay peninsula, from which it is about 47 m distant, and from Singapore 116 m. ; lat. 2 29 N. ; Ion. 104 34 E. (u.) It is double-peaked, and has the appearance, when viewed from a distance, of being two islands. The highest of these peaks is 1805 ft. ; the other, 1520 ft. The island is only about 3 m. in length, and little more than l^m. in breadth. Its formation is granitic, and the soil red. It is covered with cocoa-nut trees, which fringe its bays and cluster imongst the crevices of its rocks, to a height of 1000 ft. above Bay of Santorin, which is lined with lofty precipices, is at this point, and at Pliiro. (See EPANOMERIA.) APATI, or JASZ-APATHI, a tn. Hungary, dist. Jazig, 11 m. E. Jasz-Bere ny, and 50 m. E. Pesth. It lies in a fertile plain, and has an elegant church. Pop. 7607. APATIN, a tn. Hungary, near its S. borders in Sclavonic, 1. bank, Danube, 13 m. S. Bezdan, and 127 m. S. Pesth ; lat. 45 40 N. ; Ion. 19 3 E. It has a church, some manu factures of woollen cloth, and spinning-mills. Silkworms arc the level of the sea. There are here and there, also, fine fruit reared, and madder produced in the vicinity, where there is groves, iii which the durian and mangostan abound. Tho also some good meadow land. Pop. 7100. APCHERON. See APSHERON. APELDOORN, a vil. and par. Holland, prov. Gelderland, 17m.N. Arnhem, and 11 m. N.W.Zutphen, on the Grift Canal. From its position on this canal, and on the high road from Arnhem and Utrecht to Deventer and Zutphen, it is a consid erable thoroughfare. It has a church, school, orphan hospital for girls ; and manufactures of morocco leather, copper plate for brewery and distillery boilers, and for sheathing ships, and of chloride of lime. Pop. of vil. 700; of par. 5200. APENNINES [Italian, Apennino], an Alpine chain of mountains, S. Europe, being the continuation of the Alps into Italy, which the chain traverses in its whole extent. It com mences in the Sardinian States at the valley of Savonna, near the town of that name, W. side of the Gulf of G enoa ; proceeds N.E. to near Genoa, then in an irregular line E.S.E. till it enters the Papal States, after which it runs S.E. in a branch ing irregular manner till it reaches the boundary between Calabria Citra and Calabria Ultra, where it changes its direction to S.S.W., and terminates at the Strait of Messina, throwing off some spurs W. into what has been called tho heel of the boot. The ridge of mountains that traverses Sicily may be regarded as a continuation of the Apennines ; the connection being merely interrupted by the Strait of Mes sina. The total length of the chain, from the valley of Sa vonna to Cape Armi on the Strait of Messina, is about 629 m. ; or, following the sinuosities, about 787 m. Its broadest part, between Mount Marciano, S.E. of Sinagagliaon the Adriatic, and the mountains of Piombino in Tuscany, is 121 m. ; but in Liguria and the Calabrias it is not more than 18 to 24 m. The average height of the Apennines has been estimated at 4330 ft., and in no part do they reach the limit of perpetual snow, though some summits rise upwards of 9000 ft. above the sea. Numerous valleys advance to the coasts of the two seas that wash the shores of the peninsula, dividing Italy, more especially on the N. slope of the Apennines, into a multitude of narrow valleys running perpendicularly to the chain. On the S. slope, the valleys of the Tiber, Arno, Garigliano, and Volturno, are the only ones of the chain of any great extent ; and the rivers that flow through them are the largest that rise in the Apennines, and, indeed, the only ones of importance. Divisions. The mountain chain is usually divided into three great sections, the N., Central, and S. Apennines ; and three minor sections, called, respectively, the Tuscan, Eoman, and Vesuvian sub-Apennines. The N. Apennines extend from the valley of Savonna to the source of the Tiber at Monte Cornaro; lat. 43 47 N. ; Ion. 12 6 E; a total length, in a direct line, of about 75 to 182 m. ; passing through natives generally are of small stature, and puny appearance. Their principal settlements are on the S.W., N.W., and N.E. sides. Although shy of strangers, they are generally found to be inoffensive, yet it is not considered prudent to venture far into the country without due precautions. On the S. W. side ! of the island there is a commodious bay, which affords shelter 1 in the N.E. monsoon, and in which vessels frequently anchor in bad weather, to await a favourable change for entering Singa pore Strait. The island is generally adopted as a point of departure by ships bound to China, which also steer for it on their return. Passing vessels also are supplied here with firewood, cocoa nuts, and water. Pop. 1400. (Horsburgh s Indian Directory ; Jour. Ind. Arcliip.} AOSTA [anc. Augusta] , a tn. Sardinian States, cap. dist. of same name, 50 m. N.N.W. Turin, 1. bank, Dorea-baltea, in the middle of the Val d Aosta. It is the scat of a council of justice, under the jurisdiction of Turin ; and of a bishop, suf fragan to the Archbishop of Chamberry ; and possesses a colle giate and three parish churches, two colleges, and two hospitals. Amongst its antiquities are a triumphal arch, a gate with three arches, and the remains of an amphitheatre. It has some trade in wine, cheese, hemp, and leather. Pop. 7000. Tho PROVINCE, which has the title of a duchy, and is* intersected by the Dorea-baltea, forms one of the great valleys of the S.E. slopes of the Alps, and is surrounded by the highest peaks of the Pennine and Graian Alps ; area, 1024 geo. sq. m. The thick pine forests of the mountains, the rich pastures of the Alpine slopes, the mandel and vine plantations on the deeply- cut terraces, and the mines of silver, copper, and iron, employ the inhabitants in woodcutting; the manufacture of turpen tine, pitch, and tar, Alpine husbandry, vine culture, and mining, but not in sufficient numbers, there being a scarcity of ground fit for grain growing. The poor people, many of whom suffer greatly from goitre, leave their homes in con siderable numbers, and wander about as sweeps, masons, and smiths, returning after a time to their native place to spend their earnings. Pop. 75,000. APAE, or APEE, a small isl., S. Pacific Ocean, one of the New Hebrides; lat. 16 36 S. ; Ion. 168 10 E. (R.) ; about 35 m. S.S.E. the island of Mallicollo or Manicolo, and 350m. N.E. the nearest point of New Caledonia. APALACIIIAN MOUNTAINS. See ALLEGHANV. APAM, a native tn., N.W. Africa, Gold Coast, kingdom Ashantce, 40 m. E.N.E. Cape Coast Castle; lat. 5 16 N. ; Ion. 35 W. It is situated on a small eminence, and con tains the ruins of an old Dutch fort, the hall of which, how ever, is kept in a habitable state by a person appointed for the Sardinian States, the duchies of Parma, Lucca, Modena, and the grand duchy of Tuscany. The Central Apennines that purpose, who has also charge of the flag. The town, with a great number of its inhabitants, was destroyed by the Ashantees in 1811 ; and shortly afterwards, the fort was pil- i run from Monte Cornaro to Monte Vellino, N. of Lake Celano laged by a native chief, the gun-carriages burnt, and the whole ! in Naples; lat. 42 9 N. ; Ion. 13 33 30" E. ; a length, building laid in ruins. without deviations, of 55 to 133 m., and passing from Tuscany APAMAMA, an isl., N. Pacific Ocean, one of the Gilbert through the Papal States, and entering the kingdom of Naples. Lsles, or Kingsmill group, in lat. 30 S. ; Ion. 173 54 , W., I The 8. Apennines extend from Monte Vellino to the termina- accordingto Raperj and in lat. 27 21" N.; Ion. 173 57 30" I tion of the chain at Cape Armi, Strait of Messina, a total APENEADE 174 APOLLONIA length of 55 to 133 m., wholly within the Neapolitan domin ion. The Tuscan sub-Apennities are composed of a branch stretching S. from Monte Cornaro towards Perugia, surround ing the lake of the same name, and spreading its ramifications over the whole space between the Arno and the Tiber. The Roman sub-Apennines cover the S. portion of the Papal States; stretching out from Monte Vcllino, they comprise all the heights between the Salto, the Tiber, the Liri, and the Gari- gliauo. The Vesuvitm sub-Apennines run parallel to the principal chain from which they are separated by the upper course of the Galore and Volturno. Vesuvius is, however, an isolated mountain, not properly connected with this chain, but merely surrounded by it. The following are the highest summits in each of the three great divisions : N. Int. E. Ion. Feet. P. ( Monte de San Peloorino.... 4-1 11 40"... 10" 31 0" 51GO " \ Amiata 43 1 15 ... 11 41 13 5794 fc ( Cimone 44 13 Corno, the highest sum- ) . mil of the Apennines...) * * Vetora 42 49 Veiimo, W. point 42 11 Vellitio, E. point ... 10 43 6975 ... 13 38 9519 ... 13 12 8133 ... 13 28 8174 .... 7%G ( Amaro, summit of the 1 43 13 (Majella. Gargano.... Cueuzzo . 9131 41 45 ... 16 10 37 4639 5223 Geology. The S. slopes of the Apennines include several volcanic masses ; and the only active volcano on the continent of Europe, Vesuvius, belongs to one of these masses, that of the environs of Naples. The others are those of Santa-Fiera and Viterbo, Rome, Santa Agata, and Rocca-Monfina. In the same section are numerous springs of warm water, and of gas and vapours. The only volcano in the N. slope is Monte Voltore, near Melfi. The environs of Modena are known for their mud volcanoes. The whole chain is calcareous ; granite only appearing towards its S. extremity in Calabria. It is poor in metals, though iron is wrought in small quantities ; and there are some coal seams, but of little importance. Vast saliferous deposits exist in the vicinity of Cosenza, but the true wealth of the Apennines consists in their building materials, but more especially the celebrated marbles of Car rara, Equi, Seravezza, and Sienna. The sub-Apennine hills, in many cases, are of tertiary formation. Vegetation. Under a height of 3280 ft., the flanks of the main chain are covered with varied vegetation, of which oranges, citrons, olives, and palms, form the lower zone ; but pine forests are rare in the Apennines, though they produce pines, beaches, cypresses, laurels, chestnut trees. Above 3280 ft. the mountains are in general dry, their summits naked and bare. Passes. The principal chain is crossed by numerous passes, of which the most important are the pass of Bochetta (2549 ft.) ; the Col de Gicoi (1539 ft.), on the roads from Genoa to Milan, and from Genoa to Novi; the Col de Cento- croci, between the valley of the Taro and that of the Vara ; that of Monte Carelli or Pietra-mala (3293 ft.), on the road from Florence to Bologna; the Col d Avezzano (4569 ft.), on the road from Avezzano to Aquila ; the passage of Nicastro (1054 ft.), on the way from Nicastro to Cantanzaro, and many others, which need not be particularized. General Aspect. The Apennines do not present the pyra midal peaks of the Alps, the cloudy tops of the Pyrenees, or the scarped walls and horizontal lines of the Jura. The forms presented by them are, however, agreeable to the eye ; the sub- Apennines are undulating and rounded in their contour ; while the main chain is distinguished by features much more marked and irregular. Notwithstanding the beauty of their forms, they do not present the attractions of mountains of the first order. From their limited elevation they have no glaciers, their slopes are rarely covered with pastures, and their summits exhibit only bare naked rocks. Their valleys are narrow, presenting more the aspect of large rugged and wild ravines. (Or ograpldc del Europe; Guibert, Diet. Geo. ct Slat.) APENRADE [Danish, Aabenraa], a seaport, Denmark, duchy Schleswig, cap. bail, of same name, on the Little Belt and in the Bay (fiord) of Apenrade; lat. 55 2 36" N.; Ion. 9 25 15" E. (R.) It is beautifully situated in a deep valley, surrounded by woody heights and a fertile country. Its streets are crooked ; it has only one church, which is a collegiate charge ; and in the vicinity is an old Gothic castle. Apen rade carries on a considerable seafaring trade, and, in respect of shipping and commerce, ranks as a Danish port next to Flcnsburg. The harbour, though secure, has only 11 ft. water; and the whole tonn. belonging to the port is about 9677. It has extensive docks for shipbuilding; employs a good many hands in fishing; and, since 1819, when baths were established, has been much resorted to for bathing quarters. Pop. 4100. The BAILIWICK has an area of 1 12 geo. sq. in. Pop. 9200. APES HILL. See AKYT,A. APIA, a vil. and harbour, isl. Upolu, or Oahtoonh, one of the Samoan group, S. Pacific Ocean ; lat. 13 48 54" S.; Ion. 171 41 12" W. (R.) The village stands in a grove of bread fruit and cocoa-nut trees. It is paved with large black boulder stones, and contains a church in the European style, having boarded floors and glazed windows, a store built of stone, and a remarkable native building used for public meetings. The latter is 102 ft. long, 22 wide, 21 high, and neatly paved with small pebbles. The harbour is small, and will not con tain more than six moderately-sized vessels in fine weather ; but it is safe. Water and firewood are abundant and easily obtained ; so also are pigs, poultry, and yams. It is much resorted to by whalers. (See UPOLU.) APICE, a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Ultra, dist. of, and about 9 m. S.W. from Ariano ; on a hill. Pop. 3420. APLEY, a par. England, co. Lincoln ; 1240 ac. ; S.W. Wragby. Pop. in 1841, 162. APO, or APPO. 1, An isl. and shoal, Strait of Mindoro, Indian Archipelago, both situated between the island of Min doro and that of Busvagon, the N. point of the former being in lat. 12 39 N. ; Ion. 120 28 E. (R.) ; and that of the latter, or shoal, in lat. 12 45 N. ; Ion. 120 31 E. (Horsburgh.) The island is about half a mile in diameter, is covered with trees, and lined with white beaches on its N. and E. sides. A reef, which projects half a mile, surrounds it. The shoal is 10 m. in length from N. to S., and about 9 m. in breadth. 2, A small isl. off the S. extremity of Negros Island, one of the Philippines, in lat. 9 N. ; Ion. 123 E. APOLABAMBA, a dist. Bolivia, between the river Beni and the S.E. confines of prov. Puno, in Peru, inter sected near its centre by the 15th S. parallel. It is mountain ous, and is intersected, besides, by numerous rocky heights and ranges of precipices, and is traversed by several consid erable streams. The productions arc rice, maize, plantains, cotton, cacao, &c., the latter raised with little trouble. Wood also abounds throughout the country, and monkeys swarm in the forests. APOLDA, a tn. grand duchy, Saxe- Weimar-Eisenach, circle Weimar-Jena, 9 m. N.E. Weimar, on the Werlitz. It is the seat of a superintendent or Lutheran bishop, and has a castle, with manufactures of woollens, kerseymeres, and stockings. It has also several distilleries,.and an extensive bell foundry, which furnished Schiller with the subject of his song Die Glocke. Pop. 3298. APOLIMA, one of the smallest of the Navigator s Islands, situated between the islands of Upolu and Savaii, the Oteewby, and Oahtooah, respectively, of Arrowsmith ; lat. 13 49 S. ; Ion. 172 3 W. (u.) Apolima is apparently the crater of an extinct volcano, and is accessible at one particu lar point, being, with this exception, faced all round with perpendicular cliffs. Its highest summit, which is on the S. side, is 472 ft. above the sea. The soil in the interior is ex tremely fertile, producing, in great abundance, cocoa, bread fruit, taro, yams, &c. In the centre of the island is a village of about 20 houses, having a permanent population of about 75 persons. (Wilkes.) APOLLONIA, or AMANAHEA, a dist., cape, and fort, in N.W. Africa, Gold Coast, Ashantce country. The DISTRICT, which is tributary to the King of Ashantee, lies between the rivers Ancobra and Assinee, the one forming its E., the other its W. boundary. It is about 53 in. in length from E. to W., and 10 to 15 m. in breadth. Its coast line consists of a straight sandy beach, behind which is an undulating range of high land. A great portion of the country is covered with dense forests, and is but thinly peopled ; but for 30 in. along the coast, villages are numerous. The soil is naturally fertile , aud produces in abundance rice, millet, sugar-cane, ami cocoa APOSTLES ISLANDS 175 APPIANO nuts ; while the woods furnish excellent timber for ship build ing. CAPE AroLLONiA, which is formed of four hills or hummocks, presenting the appearance of a long projecting point, is in lat. 4 59 N. ; Ion. 2 35 W. (n.) FORT APOL- LONIA, a British settlement, and the first European fort met with after leaving Sierra Leone, stands on the beach about 4 , m. from the cape. It was at one time an important trading station, but is now abandoned, and going rapidly to decay. APOSTLES ISLANDS, Straits of Magellan, where it , joins the Pacific Ocean, near Cape Deseado ; lat. 52 34 S. ; Ion. 75 6 AV. They are twelve in number, a circumstance j from which they have obtained their name, and are all small | and barren. Their shores abound with shell fish, but are : encompassed with dangerous reefs. APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS. See ALLEGHANY. I APPAL ACHICOLA, a tn., river, and bay, U. States. I The town, which is a port of entry, and cap., of Franklin co. Florida, is situated on a peninsula, at the mouth of the river j of the same name. It is regularly laid out, has an Episcopal i church, two banks, and several stores and warehouses. It has a considerable trade in cotton, and an admiralty jurisdic tion. The Kiver Appalachicola is formed by the union of the Chattahoochee and the Flint in Georgia, and flows thence through Florida, for a distance of 70 m., into the Gulf of Mexico. It forms at its mouth a broad estuary, named Ap palachicola Bay, and is navigable throughout for small vessels. There were 20 steamers plying on the river in 1844. APPALACHIE BAY, Main of Florida ; lat. 29 40 N. ; Ion. 84 30 W. APPENZELL, a can. in the N.E. of Switzerland, the 1 3th in order of the confederation, comprehending the two independent republics of Ausser-Khoden or Outer Rhodes, and Inner-Rhoden or Inner Rhodes; length, 23 m. ; breadth, at the widest part, 16 m., which suddenly diminishes N.W. to between 4 and 5 in. ; superficies, about 160 geo. sq. m. ; wholly enclosed by the territory of St. Gall. It is an ele vated district, the lowest part being at least 1400 ft. above the sea, while it is traversed in various directions by the j outer and lower branches of the Alps, of which Mount Sentis, in the S. of the canton, is about 8000 ft. high. It has large , tracts of rich pasture land, and extensive forests of pine- and | is watered by the Sitter, and by several smaller afflu ents of the Rhine. The prevailing rock is limestone, besides which, occur whetstone, grit, and a species of marble. Salt is found in some localities, and there are a few mineral springs. Glaciers occupy the higher valleys. The climate is cold, but healthy. The chief productions of the soil being flax, hemp, and several kinds of fruit, particularly apples, pears, cherries, and grapes, from which are produced cider, kirschwasser, and some wine ; but the wealth of Inner Rhodes, which is the more elevated division of the canton, lies in its herds and flocks, which are numerous ; that of Outer Rhodes in its manufactures, consisting of embroidered muslins, gauzes, cambrics, tulle, and other cotton stuffs. Bleaching, dyeing, paper-making, letterpress, and cloth printing, are also carried on to a considerable extent. Very little machinery has been yet introduced into the canton. Most of the weavers are proprietors of land, and form the great proportion of voters in the public assemblies. The exports consist chiefly of the various manu factured articles, and of cattle, hides, cheese, butter, honey, and wax. The imports are corn, fruit, wine, brandy, tobacco, salt, raw cotton, colonial produce, dyeing materials, leather, soap, cast iron, steel, pewter, tin, hardware, pottery, &c. The working classes are divided into four different sections, namely, manufacturers, weavers, winders, and embroiderers. The first are of every grade, from the individual who manufactures the quantity only which himself and his family can weave, to those that employ 100 weavers or embroiderers. All the weavers here, as throughout Switzerland, make use of coffee, milk, oat meal, and potatoes, which compose their principal food. A few indulge themselves with meat and half a pot of cider on Sundays. They work from 13 to 14 hours a day, but do not constantly weave, devoting a portion of their time to cultivating their farms, and taking care of their cattle. Schools are numerous, particularly in Outer Rhodes, in which all children above six years of age are obliged to attend, no person being admitted to the sacrament who cannot read. Writing, arithmetic, grammar, singing, and drawing, form the chief branches of instruction. After children have left the public schools at the age of 12, they continue to receive, every eight days, and afterwards once a month, until the age of 17, lessons of repe tition. At the age of 17 they receive the religious instruc tions necessary to the holy sacrament, after which they are declared of age, assist at the popular assemblies, and perform their part of military duties. For the richer classes, and those in easy circumstances, there are here, as in all the other cantons, public schools, where, independently of the dead languages, German, French, Italian, English, geography, mathematics, and geometry, natural history, and drawing, form the basis of instruction. There are several orphan insti tutions in the canton, and savings -banks have been estab lished in almost every parish, but they are little used by the working classes, who prefer buying furniture. Servants, artists, and children, through their parents, however, deposit their savings in these banks. Each parish is bound by law to take care of its respective poor, but each has, at the same time, its own particular regulations and customs as to the extent and manner of affording relief. The people are, in general, moral and well-behaved. Those of Inner Rhodes are Catholics, those of Outer Rhodes Protestants. The separation between them took place in ] 597. The two, however, count but as one canton of the Swiss confederation, and have only a single vote in the federal Diet, to which they send deputies each in its turn. Both governments are pure democracies. The supreme or legislative power is constituted by a general assembly of all the male natives above 17 years of age, called the Landsgemeinde, which meets once a year. The manner of voting is by raising the hand. Every individual comes armed to this assembly, the right to bear arms being the test of citizenship. All bankrupts, paupers, &c., are excluded from this assembly. The principal towns are Appenzell, Trogen, Huntroyl, Herisau, and Gais. Appenzell is, next to Geneva, the most densely-peopled canton of Switzerland, in proportion to its extent. Pop. 51,400. APPENZELL, a tn. Switzerland, cap. of Inner Rhodes, the R. catholic division, can. Appenzell, 7 m. W.S.W. Tro gen, about the same distance S.E. by E. St. Gall, and 103 m. E. by N. Berne ; beautifully situated in a rich and populous APPKNZELL V valley, 1. bank, Sitter, about 2500 ft. above the sea. Its houses, chiefly of wood, are ill built, and it contains a town- house, arsenal, capuchin convent, and a nunnery. It is the residence of the principal magistrates of the canton, and the place in which the Landsgemeinde, or supreme council of the Inner Rhodes, annually meets. The inhabitants are partly em ployed in agriculture, but principally in weaving and bleaching, and have a considerable trade in linen, cotton, saltpetre, whet stones, millstones, and timber. A few miles S.E. are the mineral springs and baths of Weisbad, and N. the village of Gais, both noted resorts of invalids. Pop. 1450. APPIANO, a tn. Venetian Lomhardy, cap. dist. of same name, prov. of, and 8 m. S.W. from Como, and 20 m. N.N.W. Milan. It is tolerably built, has three churches, and carries on a considerable trade in silk, which is here manufactured of superior quality. The vicinity produces grain, fruits of all kinds, and vegetables ; cattle and sheep are also reared. Pop. of the town, 2117; of the district, 23,065. (Dizio. Univ. Italia.} 176 APULIA AI PIN, a large dist. Scotland, co. Argyle, lying chiefly along the E. side of Loch Linnhe. In this district is the val ley of Glencoe, which derives a melancholy interest from Laving been the scene of an atrocious massacre in the reign of William III. APPINGEDAM, a market tn. Holland, prov. of, and 14 m. N.E. from Groningen, on the Damsterdiep, which passes through the town. It is the seat of a court for the arrond. and can. of Appingedam, and has a townhall, a Calvin- istic, and a R. catholic church ; a Jewish synagogue, three schools, and a Bible society. Important horse markets are held here in July and August, a colt market in September, and cattle markets weekly during summer. Pop. 900. APPLEBY. 1, A bor. and market tn., par. Appleby St. Michael or Bongate, England, co. Westmorland. The town is cap. of the co., and lies on the slope of a hill, 1. bank, Eden, 28 m. S.S.E. Carlisle, and 21 m. N.N.E. Kendal. It is compactly built, and consists of one principal street, and several smaller, the former terminated at the upper end by the castle, at the lower by the church of St. Lawrence. On the opposite side of the river is a suburb, called Bondgate, connected with the town by an ancient stone bridge of two Strait, or Salat Panjang, which is from 1 to 5 m. in width, and navigable for large vessels. The coast line of the island is low nnd swampy, as are those of the others. Appong is celebrated for its sago, which is reckoned of superior quality. It is made by a people who inhabit the woods, called Orang Utan, the well-known name also of a large species of ape, common in Sumatra and Borneo. There are 350 persons employed in the cultivation and preparation of the sago, of which they could produce, it is believed, about 400,000 Ibs. annually. According to Carnbee s map of Sumatra, the island lies between lat. 1 and 1 30 N.; and Ion. 102 10 and 102 34 E. APRICENA, a tn. Naples, prov. Capitanata, dist. of, and 7 m. N.N.E. from San Severe. Pop. 4560. APRIGL1ANO, a tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Citra. dist. of, and 5 m. S.E. from Cosenza ; on a steep hill. Pop. 1012. APSHERON (PENINSULA and CAPE OF), on the Caspian Sea, W. coast, fonncd by the most E. branch of the Caucasus. Its heights and clifl s are composed of chalky rocks, upon which here and there repose masses of a sort of brown free stone. The chalky rock exhibits, in great numbers, petrifi- arches. It is well lighted, and abundantly supplied with cations of the same kinds of fish that still exist in the Caspian good water. Near the church is the market-house, rebuilt Sea. About 36,000 Ibs. of prepared saffron are annually in 1811, in the Gothic style. The townhall, situated in the exported from Apsheron. There are 10 salt lakes on the peninsula, from several of which considerable quantities of salt are taken, but muuh more might be obtained. There are main street, is spacious and commodious; close by is the jail. There are here a chapel for the Wesleyau Methodists, an ex cellent free grammar school, founded by Queen Elizabeth ; and an hospital or almshouse for 13 poor widows, founded by the Countess of Pembroke. The town has very little trade, and no particular kind of manufacture ; and cannot be said to be in a thriving condition, nor to be in any way improving. The corporation consists of a mayor, 12 aldermen, 16 com mon councilmen, and other officers. Both the Lent and summer asizes are held here, and petty sessions every Saturday. The borough returned two members to the House of Commons up to the passing of the Reform Act, by which it was dis franchised. Three fairs annually, chiefly for linen, cattle, sheep, and horses. Area of par. 14,550 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1165. (Local Correspondent?) 2, Appleby St. Lawrence, a par., co. Westmorland, E. Ward; area, 5350 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1354. 3, A par., co. Lincoln, wapeutake Manley, parts of Lindsey; area, 5180 ac. Pop. in 1841, 505. 4, A par., counties Derby and Leicester; area, 2020 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1075. APPLECROSS [anc. CcmaraicJ,], a par. and vil. Scot land, co. Ross ; 2700 ac. Pop. in 1841, 2861. APPLEDORE. 1, A small sea-coast tn. England, co. Devon, near the mouths of the rivers Taw and Torridge, 7 m. S. W the town of Barnstaple. It stands on the side of a hill, and contains a chapel of ease, and an Independent chapel. It has of late years become a favourite bathing-place, for which the beauty of its scenery, and the great extent and excellence also a number of naphtha pits, black and white, which are wrought by the Russian Government. The peninsula of Apsheron has been celebrated for many centuries, in all the E. countries, as a sacred soil, and the fire-worshippers still make pilgrimages to adore the fires which there issue from the earth, arising from the ignition of the naturally-formed naphtha. The cape is in lat. 40 29 N. ; Ion. 50 30 E APSLEY RIVER, Australia, New S. Wales, dist. New England, a branch of the river M Leay. It flows through a ravine whose upper edges are from 2 to 3 m. apart, while the width at the bottom does not appear to exceed 200 ft. This tremendous gulf is upwards of 3000 ft. in perpendicular depth. APSLEY STRAIT, a narrow channel, between Melville and Bathurst Islands, N. coast, Australia. It is about 40 m. in length, with a breadth varying from 2 to 5 m. The land is low on either side, and the shores from one end of the strait to the other bordered by a broad belt of impenetrable mangroves, and indented by numerous salt-water creeks, which present the appearance of rivers. Alligators of enor mous size abound in the Straits, many of them measuring from 14 to 17 ft. in length. A settlement was formed in 1824, on the Melville Island side of the channel, about 8 or 10 m. from its N. entrance, but was subsequently abandoned. APT [anc. Apta Julia], a tn. France, dep. Vaucluse (Provence), 30 m. E. Avignon, 1. bank, Calavon, in a fruitful of its beach peculiarly adapt it. 2, A tn. and par., co. Kent, j and beautiful valley. The river is spanned by a remarkable The town, on the banks of the river Rother, is a clean and j Roman bridge of a single arch, which stands unscathed by the neat little place ; and though now nearly 8 m. from the sea, floods and storms of 19 centuries ; and the valley is hemmed it once was an important maritime town of the Anglo-Saxons, in on all sides by hills, clothed to their summits with vines Area of pan 2760 ac. Pop. in 1841, 561. | and olive trees. The town is surrounded by old walls, of APPLEDRAM, a par. England, co. Sussex; 1070 ac. massive structure. The houses in general are well built ; and Pop. in 1841, 156. APPLEGARTH, a par. Scotland, co. Dumfries; 11,500 ac. Pop. in 1841, 857. APPLESHAW, a par. and vil. England, co. Hants; 850 ac. ; E.S.E. Ludgershall. Pop. in 1841, 372. APPLETON. 1, A par. and township, England, co. Berks; 2300 ac.; N.W. Abingdon. Pop. in 1841,496. 2, Appletcm-le-strcet, a par. co. York, N. Riding ; 4780 ac. ; the streets, though in the older quarters narrow and crooked, are, in the more modern parts, wide, clean, and adorned with fountains. The most remarkable building is an ancient Gothic cathedral. The leading manufactures of Apt are woollen and cotton stuffs, wax tapers of superior quality, and confectionery. Excellent porcelain, and common earthenware, are also made; and a good deal of silk is spun. There are also several wax- refineries, tanneries, and distilleries. Before the introduction W.N.W. New Malton. Pop. in 1841, 944. 3, Appleton-vpon- \ of percussion-locks, the gunflints of Apt were in great demand. Wisk, a par., co. York, N. Riding; 1800 ac.; S.S.W. Yarm. I Pop. 4377. Pop. in 1841, 559. APULIA, APUGIJA, or PUGLIA, an anc. prov., S. Italy, APPODI, a river, Brazil, prov. Rio-Crande-do-Norte ; it kingdom of Naples, now comprehended in the provinces oi rises in lat. 6 25 S., flows N.N.E., and falls into the Atlantic in lat. 4 32 S., after a course of 153 m. It receives several affluents, among which the most important is the Upanema, which joins it 20 m. above its embouchure. (Die. Geo. Imp. Brazil.} AITONG, or PADANG, one of three large islands, N.E. Capitanata, Terra di Bari, and Terra di Otranto. To the whole or a part of this district, the name La Puglia is still given. Originally, it was called Daunia, Japygia, Peucetia, and Messapia, and formed part of Magna Graecia or Great Greece. Here is the vast plain lying between the Apennines and the sea, called LaTavoliere di Puglicre, composed nearly coast, Sumatra, in the Straits of Malacca, about 90 m. j \vholly of pasture lands, all belonging to the crown, and on !s. by W. Singapore, separated from Sumatra by Brewer s I which upwards of 1,000,000 sliecp are fed. APURE 177 ARABIA APURE, a river, Venezuela, formed by the junction of several streams which issue from the sierra de Merida, a part of the E. chain of the Andes of New Granada ; and, after an E. course of about 300 m., falls into the Orinoco at Capu- chino; lat. 7 40 N.; Ion. 66 47 W. It is one of the principal tributaries of the Orinoco, into which it rushes with such violence as to agitate the current for nearly 3 m. below its junction. The Apure is navigable for nearly the whole length of its course, and furnishes to the province of Varinas, and the neighbouring provinces of Venezuela, a ready water carriage to Guiana, for the coffee, cotton, and indigo which they produce. The river is infested by crocodiles, and its banks abound with mules, wild horses, and cattle, immense numbers of which, particularly the wild horses, perish by its inundations, being swept away before they have time to reach the rising ground of the llanos or plains. APUEIMAC, a river, S. America, which rises from a lake in the Andes of Peru, in lat. 15 38 S. ; Ion. 76 25 W., among the savannahs of the plain of Condoroma, N. from Arequipa, and W. from the Lake of Titicaca. It flows through a mountainous country, in a N. direction; and, joining the Yucay or Vilcamayu at lat. 9 15 S. ; Ion. 72 30 W., forms the Ucayalc, one of the principal tributaries of the Amazon. Numerous streams flow into the Apurimac, the most consider able of which are the Pachachaca, Pampas, Mautaro, Paucar- tambo, and the UrubamLa. Its whole course, till it meets the Yucay, is between 500 and 600 m. AQUAMBCE, or AKAMBCE, a petty state in the interior of , the Gold Coast of Africa, formerly independent, now subject to Dahomey. It lies on the E. bank of the Volta. AQUA R A, a tn. Naples, prov. Principata Citra, dist. of, | and 16 m. S.E. from Campagna. Pop. 2897. AQUILA, a tn. Naples, cap. prov. Abruzzo Ultra II., dist. Aquila, on a hill, at the foot of which runs the Alterno, 27 m. S.W. Teramo, and 110 m. N.W. Naples. It is forti fied, has a cathedral, 24 churches, several convents, a royal college, founded by Ferdinand IV., and transferred from Sulmona in 1816; an academy, an hospital, two charitable institutions, and an elegant theatre. It is the seat of a court of justice, and of a bishopric; contains several paper-mills, and manufactories of linen and wax, and carries on an exten sive trade in saffron, grown in the neighbourhood. Aquila was founded by Frederick II., King of Sicily, in 1240, and was for a long time one of the most populous, as well as one of the wealthiest towns in the kingdom. Its walls are 3 m. in extent, with 12 gates, nearly all of which are now blocked up. It could then boast of above 100 churches, with num erous monasteries and nunneries. It is still the residence of many noble families. It suffered considerably from earth quakes in the years 1703 and 1706. Of all its ancient forti fications only one small fort remains, which was taken by the French in December 1798, after a feeble resistance. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of the Amiternum of the Romans, the native place of Sallust the historian. Pop. between 7000 and 9000. AQUILEIA, or AQUILEJA, a small tn. Austrian States, Illyria, 21m. N.W. Trieste, near the shore of the Adriatic. It is encompassed by a wall and ditch, and has a good church. The inhabitants, 1480 in number, support themselves chiefly by fishing. In the times of the Roman Emperors, it was a flourishing commercial town, and, on account of its wealth, named Roma Secunda. In 452, it was destroyed by Attila, when a portion of the inhabitants fled to the island, and founded the future Venice. AQUINO [anc. Aquinum], a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, dist. of, and 15 in. S. from Sora; the see of a bishop, who resides at Rocca Secca. The town, which was a Roman colony, is now little else than a series of ruins ; however, it still preserves its cathedral. The town was destroyed by the Lombards in the sixth century, and has long been in a state of decay. It is the native place of Juvenal the satirist, and of Thomas Aquinas. Pop. 806. AQUIRAS, a small, poor vil. Brazil, but the oldest in prov. Ceara. It lies on the Pacoti, between Lake Aquiras and the ocean; has a church, and brandy distillery and sugar factory. Its district is sandy, dry, and badly watered. Pop. of dist. about 5000. AQUITA1NE [Latin, Aquitania], one of the four great divisions of Gaul or France by the Romans. It subsequently took the name of Guienne, and at present forms the depart ments Gironde and Lot-et-Garonne. ARA, a small river, Spain, in Aragon, rising on the S. side of the Pyrenees, prov. Huesca, near the boundary of the kingdom of France ; and, flowing in a S.E. direction, it unites with the Cinca, 2 in. S. Ainsa, after a course of about 45m. ARABAT, a tn. Russia, in the Crimea, gov. Simferopol, on the shore of the Sea of Azov, 70 m. N.E. Akmetchet or Simferopol, on a narrow peninsula, which separates the Sea of Azov from the Black Sea ; lat. (E. bastion) 45 17 9" N. ; Ion. 35 29 5" E. (u.) It consists principally of one long street, is fortified, and contains a mosque. ARABAT EL MATFOON. See ABYDDS. ARABGIR, ARABKIR, or ARABKEIL [anc. Arabrace], a tn. Asiatic Turkey, pash. of, and 102 m. S.E. from Sivas ; lat. 39 3 N. ; Ion. 38 55 E. Originally a small town, with a fortress, it owed its enlargement and prosperity to the Armenians, and is said to be well built and populous. It is especially noted for its manufacture of goods from English cotton yarn, conducted by the Armenian inhabitants, and em ploying about 1000 looms. It contains 6000 houses, of which 4800 are occupied by Turks, and 1200 by Armenians. The district around is rough and hilly, but intersected by well- watered valleys, inhabited by Turcomans. ARABIA, the south-westernmost part of Asia, is called by the natives Jeziret el Arab, that is, the peninsula of the Arabs ; and by the Turks and Persians, Arabistan. In early times it was called by the Hebrews simply Kedein or the East, and its inhabitants Bend Kcdcm or people of the East. The name Arabia, when it first occurs in the Scrip tures (as in Ezek. xxvii., Arabia and the princes of Kedar ), is evidently applied not to the whole peninsula, but only to the territory of some pastoral tribes. Peninsular Arabia is en compassed on three sides by the sea, namely, on the N.E. by the Persian Gulf, on the S.E. by the Indian Ocean, and on the S.W. by the Red Sea. Its most S. point, Rs Arab (the Cape St. Anthony of some maps), stands in lat. 12 35 N. ; Ion. 43 56 E. (R.) The shoals and patches of rock stretch ing E. from this cape render its vicinity dangerous to mar iners. Thirty miles to the W. of it are the Straits of Bab- el-Mandeb. The most E. point of Arabia, Ras-el-Hacl, stands in lat. 22 23 N. ; Ion. 59 55 E. (R.) A line drawn from the head of the Gulf of Suez to that of the Persian Gulf, and marking the limits of the Arabian peninsula on the N., will be found to run nearly in the 30th parallel of N. latitude. But beyond, or N. of this line, extends a vast and desert region, which, being now occupied chiefly by Arab tribes, is also called Arabia ; it is bounded on the E. by the valley of the Euphrates, on the W. by the depressed tract in which lie the valley of the Jordan and the Dead Sea, while towards the N. it gradually contracts till its terminates in the vicinity of Tadmor or Palmyra, in about lat. 34 N. ; so that Arabia extends in length from N. to S. through 21 degrees of lat., or nearly 1300 geo. m., while its average breadth maybe assumed to be about 600 m. It includes also the peninsula of Sinai, between the Gulf of Suez and that of Akabah. The whole area of the vast country thus described does not, prob ably, fall much short of 750,000 geo. sq. m., or about eight times that of the British Islands. Notwithstanding the early reputation of Arabia, and the interest attaching to a country, the inhabitants of which have enacted most important parts in the early commerce and general history of mankind, we still remain very imperfectly acquainted with it. European travellers have hitherto pene trated but partially, and to a short distance only, from its coasts. Nor are the difficulties opposed to its complete ex ploration likely to be soon evaded or overcome. Immeasur able tracts of inhospitable stony desert ; the risk of meeting with bands of predatory and merciless Bedawin; the rapacity of guides, and the extortionate demands of petty chieftains when they have once got the stranger in their power ; the jealousies perpetually reigning among the small communities into which the interior of Arabia is divided, with the bigotry and fanaticism of the people ; these, together with the heat of the climate, and the forbidding aspect of the desert, are enough to deter the most courageous and indefatigable traveller. The only European who has as yet traversed Arabia quite across from sea to sea, is Cant. Sadlier, who was sent, in 1819, by 23 ARABIA 178 ARABIA the Government of Bombay, to congratulate Ibrahim Pasha on his victory over the Wahrfby. He proceeded from Katif, on the shores of the Persian Gulf, to Derrayeh, the ruined capi tal of the subdued fanatics, and, finding that the conquerors had withdrawn, continued his journey to Yambo on the Red Sea. We know, however, that Arabia, taken collectively, is an arid sun-burnt wilderness ; the hills, naked rock ; the plains, rough stones or drifting sand. In this dreary waste may bo \ traced, here and there, particularly near the mountains in the S. half of the peninsula, some green spots which receive the benefit of the annual rains; and the wadies or valleys, descend ing from the rain-collecting heights, figure only as so many green lines more or less strongly marked in the dazzling sun burnt prospect. But it is seldom that the tracts of cultivated land, even in the plains, attain a width of 20 m. ; so that all the irrigated Tehamas or lowlands, and all the green wadies of Arabia taken together, bear but a small proportion to the whole peninsula. Divisions. There is much discrepancy in the accounts of native writers respecting the territorial divisions of peninsular Arabia; and the limits of those divisions which they concur in establishing appear to have fluctuated much at different periods, if, indeed, they were ever ascertained with precision. The first of the divisions met with in proceeding down the lied Sea is Hejaz, which, as it includes the sacred cities, Mecca and Medineh, is always set forth conspicuously by Arab geographers. It extends a short way within the moun tain barrier, and terminates S. in about lat. 20 N. Next comes Yemen, which, according to some writers, embraces the whole of S. Arabia ; but the name is now generally used in a confined sense, Yemen proper occupying the S. W. part of the peninsula, and comprising a Tehama or maritime lowland on the shores of the Red Sea, with an elevated inland district of considerable breadth. Appertaining to Yemen is Aden, now a free port in the hands of the British. Next to Yemen, E., and separated from it by a desert five days journey in width, is Hadramaut, which commences on the coast at Mak- allah. The E. limits of this province are variously assigned by authors, some extending the name nearly as far as Ornfiii, while others confine it to a district only 100 m. in length. Beyond it, along the coast, lies Mahrah ; but across this tract, and apparently included at one time in Hadramaut, extends the principality of Shejcr or Shehr, at the E. termination of which, near the coast, is the populous district of Dhofa"r, which has occasionally figured as an independent state. At the E. angle of the peninsula is situated OmaVi, the chief port of which, Maskat, now carries on a considerable trade with British India. On the S. shores of the Persian Gulf is Bah rein, from which, towards the head of the gulf, extends the maritime district of Hajar, while at a short distance S.W. in the interior lies the fertile district of El-Ahsa (erroneously written Lahsa or Lachsa). The interior of Arabia, from Heja z and Yemen across to the vicinity of the Persian Gulf, is comprised, by Arab geographers, under the single name of Nejd. Towards the N.W. and N. are the deserts of Sinai, and those of Sham, Jezireh, and Irak (Syria, Mesopotamia, and Babylon). Mountains. The cultivated tracts of Arabia are generally in the vicinity of the mountains, the torrents from which, in the rainy season, collect soil, and endow it with fertility. The proximity of the green fields, however, to the rocky heights, depend on the rapidity of the streams, and the con figuration of the country. There are also some oases or pro ductive spots in the interior, surrounded by deserts, and which seem to indicate that the waters of streams lost in the sands higher up, are here again collected and brought towards the surface. The mountains exercising this beneficent influ ence on the land, rise, as far as we have any knowledge of them, at no great distance from the sea-shore, and form, with their ridges, a kind of elevated frame, which encloses the greater part of the peninsula. On the W., along the shores of the Red Sea, from the Gulf of Akabah to the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, a distance of 1000 m., the Arabian mountains are conspicuous throughout, presenting peaked summits of naked rock, from 5000 to 8000 ft. in height, and varying from 12 to 60 m. in distance from the coast. This range falls go abruptly to the W., that it may be said to present towards the sea a series of inaccessible cliffs. The only two passes at present known through it are, respectively, at Tayef, in lat. 21 12 N.; and above Reda, in lat. 18 N., and conse quently 200 m. asunder. Elsewhere there are only steep and narrow paths, readily climbed by the mountaineers on foot, but utterly impracticable for beasts of burden. Jebel Moi lah, near the entrance of the Gulf of Akabah, rises to a height of 7000 ft., thus matching in elevation the group of Sinai on the opposite side of the gulf; and both exhibit the same mineral formations, gneiss and porphyry in vertical strata, rising above hills of sandstone and gypseous rook. Jebel Kora, near Tayef, attains an elevation of perhaps 5500 ft., while Gurned or Sef- yan, about 30 m. S.E. of the former, has an estimated height of 8000 ft. Again, Sa"ber, the highest point of the elevated ridge which rises on the N.E. above the Straits of Bab-el- Mandeb, and commands a fine view of the Abyssinian coast, is supposed, from its vegetation, to attain a height of 7000 or 8000 ft. Further to the N.E., the maritime chain of moun tains between Aden and Shehr have a height varying from 3000 to 5000 ft., the highest points being above Shugra and Magadaiii. In Omari, where the coast between Ras-el-Had and Cape Mussendow runs from S.E. to N.W. towards the Straits of Ormuz, the maritime chain, extending close to the shore, seldom rises above 3000 ft. ; but the Jebel Akhdar or Green Mountains behind these, striking from W. to E., attain to double that height. Other mountains in the interior of the peninsula, as Jebel Shamir, on the route from Bagdad to Mecca, are described by Arab writers, but without any indi cations of height, and there is no reason to believe that they equal in elevation the maritime ranges. liivers, Lakes, Deserts, &c. The sterility of Arabia is suf ficiently proclaimed, when it is stated that that vast country has no considerable, and scarcely any permanent rivers. A few small streams, indeed, in Omdn, as the Massora and Sib, are said to be constant, that is, to contain water, and to flow throughout the year from their sources to the sea. But these, supposing their permanence established, form, after all, but rare exceptions. Arabian rivers, in general, are either con sumed in irrigation or absorbed by the sands, even in cross ing the narrow Teha"mas or lowlands of Heja z and Yemen, before they reach the sea-shore. Hence, too, the interior of Hadramaut has fertile and populous valleys, while the coast is comparatively barren and desolate; but groups of villages, with plantations of dates along the latter, mark the points where the rivers of the interior, swelled by heavy rains, occasionally force their way downward to the sea. In the most elevated part of Nejd, the principal rivers (in the local language & c : il), are the Taraba, which, in the parallel of 2 1 N., separates that country from Heja"z. Its course is to the N.N.E. ; but as nothing more is known of it, we may infer that the stream soon disappears in the sands. A degree further S. flows the Thered in the same direction, and terminates in a lake on the borders of the desert. This river marks the N. limit of the cultivation of coffee. A day s journey S. of this, the Raniyah flows N.E., and under the 18th N. parallel, the river of Bisheh waters copiously a fine country, and, running to the N.N.E., sinks in the sand. Some of the Arabs report that this river flows through the desert to the gates of Bagdad. Others, again, say that it enters a lake in the Wady Sulei meh, and thence runs through El Ahsa into the Persian Gulf. But we may regard it as a point ascertained, that there is no river flowing through El-Ahsa, or entering the sea on the adjacent coast. Besides, it is obvious that a permanent stream, or even a water-course, frequently filled, and crossing the Arabian peninsula, would necessarily be accompanied by a series of towns and plantations, and by a commercial route which would not allow such a natural feature to remain in obscurity. It appears, nevertheless, that Arab geographers have been mis led by fanciful accounts of the Wady Bisheh, or some other of the occasionally copious streams flowing from the same region ; and hence they have described a great river Afna"n or Aftdn (for the original Arabic name is doubtful), as flow ing permanently across the country from the W. mountains to the Bay of Bahrein. The lakes of Arabia are, like the rivers, but of sliort duration. After heavy rains pools are formed, which, being rapidly evaporated, leave the ground incrusted with salt. As to the wastes and oases of this country, Arabia is, collectively, a desert, and the cultivated tracts throughout are all so many oases, surrounded by sterile and irreclaimable wastes. The desert of Ahkaf [the waves of sand], however, is of a peculiar character, swallowing everything which falls ARABIA 179 ARABIA on it, and is supposed by the natives to be the abode of demons, or of the children of Ad. A recent traveller (the Baron Von Wrede) reached the confines of El-Ahkaf, N. of Hadramaut, and throwing into the sand a weight with 60 fathoms of line attached to it, saw the whole disappear in five minutes. Geology. Respecting the geology of a country so imper fectly explored as Arabia, we cannot of course know anything beyond some incomplete and unconnected details. The chain of mountains on the W. side of the peninsula, from Anti- Libanos to Bab -el-Mandeb, is granitic throughout. Its ele vated summits present to view only piles of bare rocks. The exposed surface of the granite is generally blackened by the heat of the sun, and assumes a metallic gloss. The nar row valleys between these dark masses of rock display, not carpets of fresh green, but white lines formed of drift sand. At the base of the granitic chain, on the W., are found lime stones of various kinds, and generally of recent formation. The hills bordering on the coast, however, consist of sandstone, in which shells and madrepores are embedded in abundance. Such is the general character of the W. range ; but towards the S. angle of the peninsula, where Yemen exhibits a wide extent of elevated land, volcanic rocks make their appearance, and Mount Saber, which rises above all the neighbouring moun tains, and attains a height of perhaps 7000 ft., is a mass of trachyte. Proceeding along the S. coast, we find limestone predominating, and forming ridges of 5000 or 6000 ft. in height. But the elevated plains in the interior of Hadramaut, which rise still higher, are said to be formed of sandstone. In Oma"n, the limestone formation attains its greatest height in Jebel Akhdan ; but further N., volcanic rocks again make their appearance, and the N. angle of Arabia, at the Straits of Ormiiz, is composed, like the S. angle at Bab-el-Mandcb, of trachyte and basalts. It was the broken and indented coast of volanic formation which harboured the pirates. Climate. In considering the climate of Arabia, it is neces sary to bear in mind, first, the position of that country, between the burning deserts of Africa on the one side, and those of western India on the other. Not that we can suppose the climate of the interposed peninsula to depend on those of the adjacent countries, but because it is evident that Arabia comes under the influence of those meteorological conditions which have consigned to drought and sterility a wide belt of country across the Old World, from the shores of the Atlantic nearly to those of the Pacific Ocean. This tract of desert, it is true, lies for the most part beyond the tropic, and, towards Central Asia, it bends much to the N. ; the Arabian peninsula, on the other hand, extends several degrees S. of the tropic. But, secondly, the intertropical portion of Arabia falls within the domain of the monsoons or periodical winds, peculiar to the Indian seas. Now, the monsoons not only interrupt the ordinary course of the trade-winds (which blow from the E., with an inclination to the equator), but they also interfere with that general law of intertropieal climate, by virtue of which the rain falls soon after the sun has passed the zenith ; and the hottest season is also the rainy season. In S. Arabia, on the other hand, the hottest months of the year are comparatively dry and cloud less; and the scanty rains fall chiefly in the winter, when the atmosphere, being less heated, is also less loaded with aqueous vapours. In Oma"n, the rains fall from October till May, three or four times in the month, on the lowlands, but more fre quently on the mountains. The same seasons obtain along the S. coast, the period of the rains being abridged, however, towards the W., so that the wet season at Aden lasts only from November to February. But the interior of Yemen seems to be exempt, in some degree, from the influence of the monsoons, and to enjoy the regular tropical rains a circum stance to which may be attributed the superior productive ness of that province. At Sanaa, the capital of Yemen, some rain falls in January, as on the coast ; but the heavy rains take place in June and July, with alternating S.E. and N.W. winds. In the Tehdma of Abu Arish, also, going N. from Yemen, the wet season coincides with the hottest months. But N. of Yembo, on the Red Sea, rain falls only in the winter, from November to February, and never abundantly ; it fails totally about once in four years. Temperature. To the extreme dryness of the atmosphere, and its freedom from cloud or vapour conditions tending to accelerate evaporation and the radiation of heat may be ascribed the remarkable degree of cold occasionally felt in Arabia, and which has given rise to very erroneous conjec tures respecting the elevation of that country. At Tayef, not above 3200 ft. in absolute elevation, and only in lat. 21 12 N., snow is said to fall once in every four years ; and the mountains in the neighbourhood, from 5000 to 6000 ft. high, are annually covered with snow. Further S., ice and snow are of frequent occurrence on mountains ranging from 6000 to 8000 ft. in height; while in Abyssinia, on the opposite side of the Red Sea, they are hardly known at the height of 12,000 ft. On the S. coast, in like manner, we hear of snow and ice at moderate elevations ; andinOma n, the Jebel Akhdar, only 6000 ft. high, and lying nearly under the tropic, are fre quently crowned with snow in winter. Yet Maskat, on the sea-coast of Oma"n, is perhaps the hottest inhabited place on the earth a distinction which it owes in a great measure to its situation beneath bare cliffs, which reverberate the heat. At this place the thermometer, in the shade, in June, generally rises above 100 Fah., towards the afternoon. The heat of Mokha, also, and the adjacent Tehilma, is to Europeans in supportable in summer. In general, the violent changes of temperature which occur frequently in Arabia, are prejudicial to health. The humid S. wind, the cold and dry N. wind, and the storms from the E., attended with clouds of fine sand, all bring with them the seeds of disease ; the N.W. wind alone is regarded as salubrious and refreshing. The coast of the Hcja"z is thought to be particularly unhealthy; and of late years, since the campaigns of the Egyptian army against the Wahdby, the plague, from which Arabia previously boasted to be exempt, has been added to the list of endemic diseases. Here it is as well to remark, that the imminent danger sup posed to attend the occurrence of storms of wind in the desert the sherky (sirocco) or east wind, loaded with fine sand, and the simoom or hot poison wind, from the south exists only in the tales of credulous travellers. Whatever inconveniences must be endured on such occasions by men and cattle, yet it never happens that they are suffocated by the pestilent blasts, nor are the caravans ever buried in overwhelming sands. Zoology. The wild animals of Arabia are few in number. A country so ill provided with wood, bush, and pasture, and where the scanty waters are so closely beset by an active population, is necessarily unable to support such herds of large animals as roam through the interior of Africa. The ibex inhabits the rocky heights ; the wild ass, and antelopes of moderate size, the plains. The jerboa and lizards are seen even in the midst of the bare sands. Apes, chiefly of the species called Hamadryas, are numerous in the woods which clothe the sides of the mountains, particularly in Yemen. It was stated, in the beginning of the 16th century, that the road from Taes to Aden was rendered dangerous and difficult, by the numbers and audacity of the apes infesting it ; but this has not been confirmed by more recent accounts. The beasts of prey are panthers, ounces, and hyenas. In domestic ani mals, Arabia possesses advantages which may be ascribed, in some degree, to the great care and attention which the austere nature of the country makes absolutely indispensable for the support of any kind of livestock. The camels of Ncjd are famed for their speed and beauty; in size and strength they are much inferior to those of Egypt, and therefore less fitted for carry ing burdens; but for riding, they are said to be unrivalled. Mahrah, also, boasts of its swift dromedaries, called Mahry (commonly written Maherry), which are those most highly prized in the African deserts. Nejd possesses, also, the finest breeds of horses, large numbers of which were exported to India in the beginning of the present century. These horses unite perfect symmetry of form with great spirit, but they are small ; and it is not improbable that the value of the breed is over-estimated by its enthusiastic owners. In Yemen, the ass is a handsome animal, nearly as large as a mule, with a sleek coat, and bearing a high price. As to horned cattle and sheep, S. Arabia, particularly Yemen, now draws, and proba bly has always been in the habit of drawing, large and regular supplies from the Somali coasts, near the E. angle of Africa. Botany. The flora of Arabia presents but little novelty ; it seems to be made up of contributions from Africa, India, and Armenia. The sea-shore, where it is not absolutely bar ren, exhibits generally plantations of the date-palm, which thrives even where the ground is covered with incrustations of salt. On the S. coast, towards Oma"n, the mango and cocoa-nut are occasionally met with. Further inland grows ARABIA 180 ARABIA the fig-tree, the tamarind, the almond, and, in Ouuin, the orange, lemon, and citron. The wild bushes are chiefly mimosa;, euphorbiaceae, and the sidr or lotus nebka. With these grow lavender, wormwood, jasmine, and other scented plants. As the mountains are ascended, the vegetation as sumes a more European character. Apricots, plums, pome granates, and grapes, are found at the height of 3000 or 4000 ft.; and above these, the sides of the mountains are covered with forests of juniper, less properly called cypress. The cotton plant and the sugar-cane grow in the Tehama; the sumach or gum Arabic, the aloe, and the cassia fistula, prefer the hills ; and the tree which yields the olibanum or frankin cense (a Bosicellia?}, abounds on the mountains of Shejer or Sliehr, in Mahrah. Agriculture. The Arabs cultivate for food heat, are made in Onuin; and cotton cloth is said to be manufac tured in lladramaut. The cotton plant, as well as saffron, orchil, and other dye-stuffs, is certainly cultivated in the in terior. But the Arab looms are unable to meet the demands of the home trade. The Bedawy procures his supplies of cloth, oil, and other luxuries, in exchange for civet, musk, ostrich feathers, and other trifles, but chiefly for his horses and camels. The trade in coffee, khat, almonds, balsam, senna, and gums, enriches a few proprietors; but, generally speaking, the chief mercantile wealth of Arabia is, and always has been, derived from the carrying trade. The Arab is the active factor who distributes the cotton cloth of India through out half-civilized Africa, and carries back ivory, ghee, gums, and dyewoods, in return. The productions of" Arabia are, as a source of wealth, quite insignificant in comparison with the advantage? of occupying the coasts which connect India with Africa and Europe. There are, however, treasures on the Arabian coasts, which, though not absolutely large, when considered as sources of national revenue, are yet important when compared with the much-vaunted sweets and perfumes of the interior. The pearl banks in the Persian Gulf, extend from Bahrein E. above 300 m. These give employment to nearly 30,000 men, in above 3000 boats, and yield about 80,000 yearly. The pearls are nearly all bought by the Hanyans, who engross still more completely the produce of the pearl fishery in the Red Sea, on the coast of the Hejdz. On the S. coasts of Arabia the fishermen collect much amber gris and tortoise-shell. They take immense quantities of fish, particularly on the line of coast between Mahrah and Oma"n, with which they supply the interior ; and they are not only ichthyophagi themselves, but, if we are to believe the statement of a celebrated Arabian traveller, they feed their too, on fish. It is certain, however, that they are barley, and diirrah or holcus vulgare (the jmvdri of India), besides bananas, water-melons, and other garden produce ; but their chief dependence is on their date plantations. These occupy everywhere the irriguous land, the level margin of the stream, the low sea-marsh, or the hollow moistened by land-springs. The borders only of these favoured spots, if they admit of having water occasionally led to them, are given up to the cultivation of grain. Near every large date planta tion, there is ordinarily a fort, with high walls and dry ditch, round which is collected nearly the whole population of the district or wady. As the success of field labour depends here wholly on irrigation, the Arabs have learned, from necessity, to attain this object by very elaborate and ingenious means. They conduct the water through tunnels or subterranean canals (feltj, in the singular iflaj), so as to prevent its being dissipated in its transit by the thirsty superficial soil, and the sun s powerful rays. These felej have, in Oman, an extent of many miles, with a height which allows a man to walk upright in them. Yet, notwithstanding the care bestowed by the Arabs on their date plantations, to which, as well as to their horses and camels, they are ardently attached, the total produce seems unequal to the demands of the population; while W. Arabia receives provisions, not only sheep and cattle, but millet and other grain also, from the Somali coast. S. Arabia imports annually, notwithstanding the vaunted fertility of its numerous wadies, several thousand tons of dates from the Persian Gulf. In Yemen, however, the culti vation of coffee, and of khat (Celastrus edvlis) is found more remunerative than that of the necessaries of life. The former of these thrives only in a warm and humid atmosphere, and screened from the sun s rays; hence, being planted only under the shade of trees, it is confined to the well-wooded part of Yemen, from the neighbourhood of Mokha, S. to Mount the ship of the desert offered the most convenient and eco- Sa"ber. The cultivation of coffee was introduced into Arabia l nomical mode of conveying goods from the Persian Gulf and from S. Abyssinia; and it is now well known, that the best coffee exported from Mokha, even at the present day, is in fact the produce of Abyssinia. The khat, also, a kind of tea-plant, is originally Abys sinian ; but the use of it as a stimu lant seems as yet hardly to extend beyond Yemen ; yet there, such is the passion for it, that it bears a very high price. The tender shoots, and young leaves, consti tute the best khat; if chewed when quite fresh, they are capable of intoxicating; the denomination and price of the khat depend on its age and tenderness. At every festival actively engaged in the shark-fishery, from which their chief gains are derived; that they launch forth on a rough sea, riding on a plank supported by blown skins, and with bare legs thus exposed, hasten, with paddle and harpoon, to en counter the most formidable monsters of the deep. They kill the sharks for the sake of the tails and fins, which are sent to Maskat, and thence find their way to the Chinese market. Kdfilahs. Although the carrying trade between India and the shores of the Mediterranean Sea has long since sunk into comparative insignificance, yet enough remains to show the importance and the foundation of the monopoly of it, once enjoyed by the Arabs. While navigation was in its infancy, that patient and enduring animal, the camel so justly entitled or social meeting, the master of the house presents to each of his guests a twig of khat ; and, if the accounts given of its virtues, in promoting social feelings, serenity of temper, sprightliness, and power of enduring fatigue, be true, it is to be regretted that so genial a restora tive is not more widely distributed. Manufactures and Trade. Manufacturing industry can hardly be said to exist in Arabia. Handicraft trades are there few in number. The armourers are the only smiths whose work exhibits skill. The town of Haes, in Yemen, is famous for its pottery, because it is the only place in Arabia where the art of glazing earthenware is understood and prac tised. Camelots are, woven in Nejd; silk and woollen stuffs TRAVELLING IN ARABIA Drawn by H. Wl S. Arabia to Egypt and Phenicia, whence they were dis tributed through the west. It seems certain, that the trade routes of the Arabs, in the earliest ages in the flourishing days of Tyre and Sidon nearly coincided with those followed in the days of the Caliphs, when the caravans started from Bahrein for Bagdad, and thence crossed the Syrian deserts to Aleppo, Damascus, or Egypt ; or from Dhofar and the ports of Hadramaut, they passed through Yemen on their way N. The establishment of the Mahometan religion had the effect of reviving this truly Arab branch of industry ; for the Hadji or pilgrimage to Mecca, which was enjoined on all true believers, drew crowds annually to the sacred shrine from all ARABIA 181 ARABIA parts of the Mahometan world. This conflux of strangers required large supplies, and gave great activity to trade ; but besides the pilgrim-caravans to Mecca being deemed sacred, experienced favour and protection in all Mahometan coun tries; and hence, the Hadji merchants taking advantage of the security thus enjoyed, always united commercial specula tion with the work of piety. These caravans (or Kafilahs, as the Arabs call them), are at times exceedingly numerous. There are authentic accounts of caravans to Mecca which numbered 120,000 camels. Now-a-days, the ordinary com mercial caravans rarely exceed from 500 to 1000 loaded camels. These, with the guides, merchants, and followers of all kinds, on horses, asses, &c., resemble in their march a little army. The laden animals are preceded by a vanguard of well-armed horsemen, and are divided into groups belong ing to different owners. At night a lantern, raised on a pole, which is fixed on the back of a leading camel, serves to guide those in the rear, and pistol-shots fired from time to time indicate the position of the line, and serve to prevent strag gling. The Bedawin, as they travel in their migrations, generally allow their camels to browze as they proceed, and to pursue irregular paths ; but in case of a caravan which is very large or richly laden, or which has to cross a waterless desert or a country infested by robbers, care is taken to preserve exact order, and implicit obedience is habitually rendered to the leader. The ordinary day s march of 17 m. is occasion ally, in case of necessity, lengthened to 24 m. Origin of Hie Arabs. The doctors of the Korn ascribe the first origin of the Arab nation to the sons of Iram (Aram), Ad, Thamud, Jorhum, &c., whose posterity are styled Arab el-Arabah or thorough-bred Arabs. These have long since vanished from the page of authentic history, and figure only in legends of remote antiquity. The sons of Kahtan (Yoktan) are entitled Mutarabah, or Arabs by adoption; and the Ish- maelites are named, in a similar sense, Mustarabah. But it may be inferred from the Hebrew Scriptures, that some of the posterity of Ham, also, Seba, Havilah, Sabtah, and other sons of Gush, settled in S. Arabia, which was thus closely connected with the land of Canaan (Phenicia), and this con nection is also testified by profane historians. It is reason able to suppose that the different branches of the Semitic race, who thus occupied at an early age the Arabian peninsula, spoke different dialects; but the prevalence since acquired by the language of the Koran, has for the most part effaced such distinctions. It has, however, been recently discovered, that the upper classes in Mahrah, and especially in Dhofa r, speak a peculiar language called Ehkili, which many circumstances combine to identify with the ancient Hamyaritic. At Mareb, also, where remains of the celebrated dam are still traceable, as well as at several places along the S. coast, inscriptions in the Hamyaritic tongue and character (probably the unknown character described by Arab writers under the name of Mus- nad), have been copied; and from the study of them, it has been found that the Hamyaritic language bore a close resem blance to Syriac and Hebrew, and still more to Ethiopic, which last may be considered perhaps as its immediate offspring. Some Arab writers have alluded to the Ehkfli, as if it betokened a relic of the Adite race. Its modern dis coverer is more inclined to consider it as the language of the Cushites. It has the disadvantage of being, to a stranger, disagreeable to hear, and impossible to acquire, some of its sounds requiring to be uttered with an effort which causes a violent distortion of the face. Anterior to Mahomet, Ham yaritic was the general language of S. Arabia; but the lan guage of the Koran quickly displaced it, and, in the first ages of religious fervour, it fell into disuse. The tribes of Mahrah and Dhofa r, therefore, who now speak Ehkfli, are not to bo considered on that account as a separate race, but only as the descendants of that portion of the population who rejected the proffered Islam in the first instance, and have since received it tardily, and perhaps incompletely. The others lost with their language a chief mark of race, but they retained, and still retain, ancient habits and dispositions, which broadly distinguish them from their Ishmaelite neighbours further N. While the latter are unalterably attached to a pastoral roving life, to arms, and rude independence, the former devote them selves ardently to mercantile pursuits, and dwell in towns ; they seek the advantages of social combination, and cherish the memory of their ancient kings. Jews. It would appear that Jews were always numerous in Arabia. Subsequent to the dispersion, they possessed Yathrib [the lailirippa of Ptolemy], afterwards named Med- ineh [the city] ; and in S. Arabia, with which they were con nected perhaps by commerce, they seem to have been settled in a still earlier age. Their Scripture lore found favour with the people, who were quite willing to believe themselves the posterity of Yoktan, or of Abraham, and even kings were numbered among their converts. Hence, we may reasonably conclude, that of the Arabian Jews of later times, the great majority are probably not Israelites by descent, but only Judaizing Arabs. A few Jews, mostly silversmiths or distil lers, are to be found in all the chief market towns of Arabia, except in the Heja"z, where they are forbidden. In Maskat alone they are exempt from insult and vexation. Jewish observ ances are said to characterize, in S. Arabia, many tribes pro fessing Islam. But in Yemen, the native Jews still form a considerable community; and further N., towards Asir, are the warlike tribes of the Beni Hob^b (Num. x. 29; Judg. iv. 11), who cloak the Jewish faith under a Mahometan exterior. Among them are the Beni Arhab (Kechab), who, proud of their descent, and persuaded of their high destiny (Jer. xxxv. 19), assume the title of the Sword of Yemen. We know not whether these Kechabites still observe the precepts of their forefather Jonadab not to drink wine, nor to dwell in houses but it is certain that the making of wine, and the distillation of brandy, are among the chief occupations of the Jews in Yemen. But with respect to these Arab genealogies, it must be remarked, that an ignorant people, living in large families, under patriarchal institutions, naturally seize on whatever flatters the pride of pedigree, and that popular tra ditions are not necessarily ancient, because they point to remote antiquity. In truth, the original affinity of the Arabs and Hebrews is sufficiently proved by a comparison of their languages; but the attempts of the former to explain in detail their derivation from the common stock, are obviously founded for the most part on hints furnished by the latter. Government. The prevailing form of government among the Arabs is patriarchal, the chief power being vested in a Sheikh, that is, an old man or elder, whose authority resem bles that of the head of a family, and rests more on the senti ments and habits of the community than on organized means of control. The title of Sheikh has, indeed, generally become hereditary, though not by so strict a rule as to prevent the frequent occurrence of contests for the succession. The power of the Arab chieftain depends on his ability to sway the passions of the multitude by the ready use of tongue and sword. If through tyranny or incapacity he forfeits his pop ularity, he is ordinarily deposed by some ambitious kinsman, to whom the people willingly transfer their homage. In Sanaa the chief bears the spiritual title of Imam, as did form erly the ruler of Maskat also; but in the latter case, the title of Ima*m has been superseded by that of SuMn. Religion and Laws. It is believed, that in early ages the chief objects of adoration in S. Arabia were the sun and moon; but with these there were certainly other deities of a more popular character. In the recently-deciphered Ham yaritic inscriptions occurs the name of Athtor, who was prob ably the same as Ashtoreth, the Venus of the Phenicians. The northern tribes seem to have borrowed from the Pan theons of all the nations with whom they came in contact ; and the Kaaba is said to have contained at one time 300 idols. But Mahomet put an end to this accumulating superstition, by establishing a system of pure monotheism, with which he associated as much ritual observance as sufficed, without being wearisome, to connect his doctrines with the habits of the people. The Ishmaelites, the fellow-countrymen and companions of Mahomet, hastened to rally round him as soon as success began to gleam on his career, and willingly ex changed their wavering superstitions for doctrines at once grand, simple, and decisive; but in the S., where Judaism and Christianity too, had gained a firmer footing, the new Ishmaelitic creed met with an obstinate resistance; and it is said that some tribes in Asir, at the S. side of Nejd, remained unconverted till the early part of the last century, when they were overpowered by the fanatical Waha by. At all events, they adhere at the present day to peculiar and barbarous rites, which are quite repugnant to the spirit of Mahometanism. On the S. coast, also, the natives manifest very generally a ARABIA 182 ARABIA striking indifference to tlie precepts of the Korff.n. This volume is to Mahometans not only an exposition of religious faith, but a code of laws also. In Turkey and Persia, the voluminous decisions of the Ulem.-C or learned, and of the Fukaha (plural of Fakfh) or doctors of the law, have reared a vast superstructure on this slender foundation ; but among the Bedawin, the Sheikh is supposed to be a competent lawyer, and pronounces summary decisions, without appeal, or, in large communities, he pays a Cadi to discharge this office. Physical Appearance and Dress. The Arabs in general are characterized by a light and active figure, oval face, regular and finely-turned features, and a forehead neatly formed, but somewhat narrow. Their look is bold, but often inclines to melancholy. They have ordinarily a dark brown complexion ; yet on Mount SKber, in Yemen, and on the Subahn mountains, in Mahrah, dwell tribes who are not darker than the inhabit ants of S. Europe. On the other hand, the native population of the maritime districts are frequently, owing to the mixture of African blood, nearly black. On the shores of the Persian Gulf in particular, the slave population (chiefly from the E. coast of Africa) is numerous, and the fair-skinned Arab comparatively rare. The ordinary dress of the well-con ditioned Arab is a cotton shirt, cotton drawers, and a woollen mantle, called Abbayeh, which is sometimes exchanged for a blue cotton frock, with very wide sleeves. To this the wealthier sort add a caftan of cloth. Round the head is bound a fringed kerchief, striped green and red, over which a shawl is worn in winter as a turban. The Bedawin often cover their nation. Their independence, in which they glory, but which is founded on their poverty; their attachment to ancient habits, and their incapability of change, conduce to nourish in them a strong national spirit. The whole wealth of these wander ing herdsmen consists in their camels and horses, their kine, sheep, and goats. They live indolently in tents, made of a coarse kind of dark- coloured cloth, woven by their own women, drawn over poles fixed upright in the ground ; the larger ones having several compartments, so as to have separate rooms BEPAWIN APABS, WOMEN GRINDING CORN Prawn l,y U. Warren. h.eads only with a lappet of cloth, round which they tie the lint cord of their matchlocks. They despise the straw hats worn by the cultivators of the ground. The men of all classes wear sandals. The women, however, who when young have a very engaging appearance, and are much fairer than the men, go barefooted, with rings on their toes. Their brows and eyelids are darkened with antimony, the palms of their hands and their nails stained red with henna. For increase of their attractions, they rely chiefly on henna and the scent of jasmine. The married women among the Bedawin wrap themselves, so as to conceal the face, in black cloaks, which leave the arms exposed, and have a very unprepossessing look. The young girls, on the contrary, have but little clothing, and are content to adorn themselves with shells strung together. The men pride themselves chiefly on their arms ; their jembfa or long dagger, their sword, from India or Persia; their light spears, tufted towards the head with horse hair or ostrich feathers ; and their matchlocks. In the commercial towns may be seen all the fashions of Turkey, India, and Persia. The buttered heads of the Bedawin meet there the perfumed beards of foreigners ; and even the wild tribes of the interior exhibit considerable diversity of costume. Manners. The Arabs maybe all divided into three classes, which rarely commingle or change places one with another, namely, the inhabitants of towns, the cultivators of the soil, and the Bedawin, or people of the wilderness [from ledu, a desert plain]. These last are considered as the type of the VARIOUS FORMS OF ARAB TENTS From Laborde. for the men, women, and domestic animals ; and keep by one locality till the pasturage around is exhausted, and neces sity compels them to change their position ; thus they wander in the course of a year over a large tract of country. They have no industry, and though in appearance all energy and fire, are incapable of patient exertion. Their only occupation, besides the care of their cattle, is pillage; for they are all robbers, cruel, treacherous, and vindictive the principle of blood for blood maintaining among them perpetual and de structive feuds. Such are their vices, which are hardly atoned for by their well-known hospitality. The stranger within their tents is safe from injury; for him they kill the lamb or kid, and grind their best corn. The Bedawin them selves, and, indeed, the Arabs taken collectively, are the most temperate and abstemious people, perhaps, on the face of the earth. They can subsist on a fifth part of the food consumed habitually by Europeans. Numbers live half the year on nothing but camel s milk. Others on a few dates dipped in ghee, or melted butter ; and some even live wholly on wild honey. A handful of meal, moistened with water, suffices for an Arab during a long journey. Dwellings. The agricultural tribes inhabit villages, which are frequently enclosed within square walls, the houses abutting on the walls, while in the centre is an open space for the herds and flocks. Near the date plantations there are usually forts, with double walls, towers, and dry ditches ; and near these stand the villages of the inhabitants. The houses, sometimes two stories high, are built of stone, or sun-dried bricks of large size, and have flat roofs, covered with clay. In Yemen, which anciently attained a higher degree of civilization, the castles of the chieftains resemble the baronial mansions of Europe in the Middle Ages, and the houses of the opulent merchants are large and commo dious. Considering the general frugality of the people, it may be concluded that the population of Arabia is large in comparison with the natural resources of the country. It is difficult, however, exactly to estimate its amount, as the people elude all such inquiries, from a superstitious dread of enumera tion. Chiefly on conjectural grounds, therefore, the population of Arabia is assumed to amount to 12,000,000. Language and Literature. The Arabic belongs to what is called the Semitic family of languages (spoken by the poster ity of Shem), and is, therefore, cognate with the Hebrew; it is, however, less impaired than the latter, and preserves more completely its primitive forms. The Hamyaritic, or language of S. Arabia, relics of which have recently come to light, is said to be in this respect still more complete, and to retain, in a remarkable degree, its original construction. Of Hamyar itic literature, if such ever existed, nothing now remains; the inscriptions lately found in that language seem to be all of a ARABIA 183 ARABIA (late subsequent to the Christian era. The history of the northern or Ishmaelitic Arabic, cannot be traced back long anterior to Mahomet. We know that the wandering Arabs held the gifts of eloquence and facility of rhyme in high estim ation : the ready poet and story-teller was a welcome guest in every tent. At the fair of Okadh, in Hcjdz, prizes were given for effusions of this kind, and some of the pieces thus distin guished in the pagan age of the Arabs are still preserved. In this state of things, the publication of the Koran wrought wonderful effects ; and the language of the Korefsh, in which it was composed, was studied with a diligence which neces sarily tended to polish and enrich it. The sacred volume was originally written in the old Syriac character, called estranghelo (that is, es-satr-angfl, the writing of the gospel), which the A rabs had recently learned ; but a few years later, when the prophet s successors had founded Kufah, on the Euphrates, and the copying of the Koran became the business of the place, modifications were made in the estranghelo, which resulted in the adoption of what is called the Kufic character. It was in the fourth century of the Hejrah, that the current writing, called Nishky, which continues in use at the present day, first came into fashion in Bagdad. In a few ages after Mahomet, Arabic was the most widely diffused language on the face of the earth. It has undergone, however, in the course of time, that wear and degradation to which all languages are liable, particularly where conquest or trade force the use of it on strangers. The vulgar Arabic of the present day has thrown aside many of the grammatical forms of the old language ; and this curtailment, with the change of terms, has wrought such a transformation, that the illiterate Arab, though he learns to repeat the Koran, rarely understands it. The cultivation of a language implies more or less of literary activity. As soon as the victorious apostles of the new faith had sheathed their swords, they began to apply themselves with great ardour to learning, and particularly to the study of the Greek authors. Every Mahometan court, from Seville and Cordova, to the Balkh and Samarcand, had its crowd of poets and prose writers. But the attempt to force learning and refinement thus suddenly on the children of the desert, proved a failure. The literature of the Arabs is remarkable alike for its extreme abundance catalogues exist of nearly 20,000 Arab authors and its want of masterpieces. Their historical works are not without value, though dry, and occa sionally disfigured by fanaticism and credulity ; but their other works are usually trivial in substance, and exhibit a tendency to petty astuteness, verbal display, and shallow volu- j bility, which may be referred with probability to the original habits of the nation. Ancient Divisions. The Arabian peninsula was divided by ancient geographers into two parts, namely Arabia Deserta, embracing the modern Heja"z and Nejd, in the widest applica tion of the latter name ; and Arabia Felix, or Yemen and Hadramaiit. As to the E. districts, it is not easy to determine how they are to be placed under this vague division. Ptolemy, at a later period, added also Arabia Petrsea, which embraced the Syrian deserts and those of Sinai, taking its name from the city of Petra, situated among the hills E. of the Wady el-Akabah. But, it must be observed, that the name Ara bia was applied by the ancients with a latitude which does not now belong it ; for the entire region on the E. side of the Nile, between that river and the Red Sea, was called by them Arabia, in contradistinction to Lybia, which lay on the W., or opposite bank. This mode of speaking remained in use till the latest period of what may be called ancient geography, in reference to the open country on the right bank of the Nile ; but the line of demarcation thus formed by the river, was, by early writers, continued ideally to the S. Ocean ; and accord ingly, Herodotus, in his description of the cinnamon-bearing Arabia, by which he unquestionably meant the E. angle of Africa, round Cape Jerdaffoon, represents Arabia and Ethiopia as conterminous countries. And there can be no doubt that this extensive application of the Arabian name was ethnologically just; for, if we trace the Nile up as far as the ancients were acquainted with its banks, and thence draw a line in continua tion to the ocean at the equator, we shall find that the coun tries lying E. of the limit thus drawn, have been all occupied, more or less, from the earliest ages, by tribes of Semitic ori gin, who generally succeeded in obtaining an ascendancy over the aboriginal races. It was an ethnographical error of the Greek and Roman writers, to give to the country at the N.W. angle of the Ara bian peninsula, embracing Sinai and the Wady el-Akabah, the name of Arabia Petraea. Modern geographers have erred still further, in supposing this to mean the Stony Arabia, a name equally applicable to any part of the peninsula. The epithet Petrasa was derived from Petra, the Greek name of the capital of the Nabatseans, who are called by ancient writers Ardbas Nabatiei, though, in fact, they were not Arabs at all. The attempt to derive the Nabataeans from Ncbaioth, the son of Ishmael, cannot satisfy a scrupulous etymologist; and, in fact, when the popular misconceptions respecting that people are set aside, it becomes plain enough that they were of Aramaean race, and a colony of the Nabat, who occupied the low lands on the banks of the Euphrates, and who, trading with the Gherraei on the N.E. angle of the peninsula, per ceived, and seized the advantage derivable from possessing the N.W. angle also. Like the Hamyarites in the S., they bore no resemblance to the wandering tribes occupying the centre of the peninsula ; and the architecture of their cities in the desert, admirable even in ruins, must have been marvellous at all times in the eyes of their pastoral neighbours. History. The Ishmaelites appear to have always retained the habits of Bedawin ; they were wild Arabs ; the possession of Mecca and the Kaaba was their sole boast, and they made no figure in history till the time of Mahomet. The sons of Yoktan, on the other hand, in S. Arabia, advanced in civiliza tion, engaged in commerce, and had a regal form of govern ment. Thus we find it stated, characteristically enough, that Arabia (N.) and the princes of Keder, offered lambs, and rams, and goats pastoral produce ; while the merchants of Sheba (the Sabaeans) dealt in spices, precious stones, and gold. Ac cording to the Arab tradition, however, Saba (Sheba) was not the son of Kahtan (Yoktan), but the third in descent from him, the genealogy being Kahtan, Yeshal, Yareb, and Saba. The last had many children, among whom were Hamyar and Kahlan. The descendants of the former, called Hamyarites, or Hirnyarites (the Homer itce of the Greeks and Romans), were not, therefore, identical with the Sabajans, but only a branch of that race. Of the early history of the Sabaeans, nothing now remains but a few obscure traditions. The greatness of the nation appears to have been closely inter woven with the construction and maintenance of the great dam at Marab, in the interior of Yemen, which collected the waters of several mountain-streams, and formed a reservoir whence the neighbouring country was irrigated. The con struction of this great work dated from a period long antece dent to that of authentic history. Some ascribe it to Balkis, the Queen of Sheba who visited Solomon. The bursting of this dam, which probably took place in A.D. 170, constitutes one of the most remarkable epochs in Arab history. It was connected with a dispersion of the tribes of Yemen, many of whom going N., and associating with the Ishmaelites, event ually acquired the ascendency among these people. In the fourth century of our era, a king of Yemen embraced Judaism, and persecuted the Christians within his dominions, : putting several thousands of them to the sword. This j awakened the hostility of the Abyssinians (the Axumites), I and at length, in A.U. 530, an Ethiopian army crossed the Red Sea into Yemen, and put an end to the Hamyarite dynasty. The Ethiopians remained masters of Yemen till A.D.601, when Khosru Parviz, the Sassanide king, sent a Persian army to aid in expelling them. It was during this occupation of Yemen by the Ethiopians, that Abreha marched against Mecca with a Christian army and a troop of elephants, but was induced to retire by the intercession of the Jews of Yathrib. This event gave rise to the Arab era of the Elephant, and is the more remarkable because it took place in the same year (571) which gave birth to Mahomet, whose fiery genius was, no doubt, worked upon by the contest of religious doctrines which agitated Arabia in that age. In tracing the chief epochs of Arabian history, we must not omit to mention, that the era used by the Arabs and Mahometans in general (Moslimin), is reckoned from the prophet s departure from Mecca, July 1C, 622. With the diffusion of the new faith, a new destiny seemed opened to the Arabs. The continued success of their arms has no parallel in history. Within the course of a few generations, Arab dynasties were established from Central Asia and the frontiers of India, in Samarcand, Balkh, and ARABIAN GULF 184 ARACAN Cabool, to the shores of the Atlantic, in Morocco and Spain. In the flourishing days of the Khali fs [successors], the Arab merchant visited China, the interior of Africa, the shores of the Baltic, and N. Siberia. In truth, Arab commerce em braced at one time nearly the whole of the Old World. But this wide-spread superiority was in its nature transient. The power of the Khalifs was extinguished, after many a struggle, by that of the Ottomans, and in trade the Arabs were gradually and completely supplanted by W nations. The Arabian peninsula derived but little advantage from the historic splen dour of the Arab name. Bagdad, Cairo, and Grenada became centres of a civilization which exercised no influence on the tenants of the desert. The most remarkable event in the his tory of Arabia since the age of the prophet, is probably that which closed the career of the Wahdby, a sect of religious re formers, founded by the Shefkh Mahomet Abd-el-Wahal, whose life extended from 16% to 1791. Towards the end of the last century, his followers in Nejd threatened not only Bagdad, but Mecca, and thus provoked the hostility of the Pasha of Egypt. The enthusiasm of the Bedawin, roused by the appearance of an Egyptian army in Nejd, made the con test for some time doubtful, and the Turks were defeated in three successive campaigns. But perseverance and artillery gained the victory at last. In 1818, Derrayeh, the capital of the Waha by chief, in the heart of the peninsula, was razed to the ground, and the spirit of the fierce sectaries completely quelled. Since that event, Hejilz, and a part of Yemen, have remained under the rule of the Pasha of Egypt. (The Travels of Burckhardt and Wclsted in Arabia ; Niebhur, Descrip. de V Arable ; Wolf s Missionary Journey Captain Sadlier, in Trans, of the Lit. Soc. of Bombay ; Crutteuden and Ilaines, in Jour. Roy. Geo. Soc.) ARABIAN GULF. See RED SEA. ARABIAN SEA, a large expanse of sea, S.W. coast, Asia, lying between the peninsula of Hindoostan on the E., Arabia on the W., and having the coasts of Beloochistan and Sinde on the N. The distance from shore to shore, or from the Arabian to the Indian coast, may be, at the broadest part, about 1500 m. The Sea of Bab-el-Mandeb, and Persian (j nlf, are both ramifications of the Arabian Sea, which is itself a portion of the Indian Ocean. ARACAN, or AKKACAN [Rekhaing], a maritime prov. British India beyond the Ganges, presidency of Bengal. It is a strip of coast, bounded N. by Chittagong, from which it is separated partly by the river Nauf ; E. and S.by the Bur- man empire ; and W. and S. by the Bay of Bengal ; lying be tween lat. 1825 and2rN. The natives restrict the name to what is the present district of Akyab, one of the three districts into which Aracan is divided. This portion of the country, which is called Aracan Proper, lies between lat. 20 and 21 10 N., on the sea-coast, extending in the interior to 21 40 N. ; area variously estimated from 11,000 to 16,000 sq. m. The province is divided into the districts of Akyab, Hamree, and Sandoway. The chief towns are Aracan, the former cap ital ; Akyab, the principal port, now the capital of the prov. ; Sandoway ; and Kyouk Phyoo, the chief military post, and hav ing a spacious and beautiful harbour. Aracan is separated from Burmah and the valley of Irrawadi by an extensive mountain range, which extends, from Cape Negrais N., along all its E. frontier, and is named the Aracan, Yomadoung, or Anamec- topiu Mountains, lying parallel to, and in some places ap proaching very near, the sea-coast. These mountains consist chiefly of granite, schist, and limestone; yield iron, and small quantities of gold and silver ; and have an average elevation of 4000 ft. ; the highest peak, the Table Mountain, rising 8340 ft. above the sea, and separating the valley of the river Aracan from that of the Miou or Mayoo. This range, which on the W. is generally abrupt and broken by numerous ravines, is said to be crossed by no fewer than 22 passes, of which, however, only five are in use ; the best of these, the pass of Aeng, being 4664 ft.above the sea. Elevated forests, wooded valleys, rivers, and small lakes, form the general features of this interior mountain district, which extends about 20 in. W. of the main range. Between the mountains and the sea the province is very narrow in the S. portion, but becomes wider towards the N. It is covered with thickly-wooded jungles, which are so intersected by rivers, lakes, creeks, and inlets, 03 to render land communication from town to town exceed ingly difficult. It is watered by numerous streams, of which may be named the Nauf, Mayoo or Miou, the Kuladyne or Aracan, the Aeng and Sandoway, all of them navigable to a greater or less extent. Along the coast are the islands of Cheduba, Ramree, Akyab, the Broken Islands, and numerous detached islets and rocks. In Ramree and Cheduba are mud volcanoes. The soil of the higher grounds is a rich loam ; that of the lower and most extensive portion chiefly argilla ceous ; while on the rivers and on the coasts there are large accumulations of sand. Oak, fir, teak, and bamboo, of all sizes, are found in the forests ; and throughout the country there is abundance of pine apples, plantains, mangoes, jacks, sweet limes, cocoa nuts, and almost all tropical fruits, with the exception of oranges, which are scarce. Among the other vegetable productions are rice, sugar-cane, hemp, cotton, indigo, onions, garlic, and turmeric. Almost the only wild quadrupeds of which we have any account are the elephant, tiger, buffalo, deer, and goat. Wild fowl, poultry, and fis-h, are abundant ; and bees and silkworms are indigenous. With respect to climate, the country, except among the hills, is considered exceedingly unhealthy. The mean temperature is about 80 Fah., and the quantity of rain that falls is very great. The wet season continues from May to November, and the other third part of the year can scarcely be called dry, as much rain falls in December, January, and April. The abundance of moisture, and the high temperature, render the country peculiarly adapted to the cultivation of rice, which is, accordingly, its staple production, and of which there are three distinct kinds grown. Previous to the year 1830, the province produced rice enough only for the con sumption of its scanty population; now 62,000 tons are annually exported, and have been yearly since 1838. The shipments, which, it is understood, were first limited to the Coromandel coast, were then extended to China, Bourbon, and the Mauritius ; and, latterly, to Britain, France, and Belgium. The quality of the grain is excellent. Other objects of culti vation are cotton, sugar-cane, hemp, tobacco, and indigo ; and the fertility of the district is manifested by the largeness of its crops. Agriculture, however, is little practised, the inhabit ants being more addicted to hunting, fishing, and trafficking. The principal article of manufacture and of export, next to grain, is salt. The only other exports, the produce of the province, are sandoway, tobacco, bees -wax, honey, raw cotton, hides, horns, sugar, earth and wood oils, shark-fins, fish- maws, chillies, ginger, cows, bullocks, and ponies The quantities exported of most of these commodities are trifling. The wood oil of Aracan is, as regards this country, a novel article of commerce, although long well known throughout India. It is the production of a lofty tree (genus Dipterocarpus] , which abounds in the country, and is obtained by cutting a large aperture, 3 or 4 inches deep, in the tree, near the root. A fire is then kindled in the orifice, by which the sap-vessels are stimulated, when the oil begins to drop slowly into a hollow formed for its reception at the bottom of the aperture. Some European goods, along with rice and other native products, are exported to Burmah, in return for silver, copper, lacquered ware, &c. The inhabitants are a hardy, inoffensive race, athletic, intelligent, and have an independence of manner which strikingly contrasts with the obsequiousness of the Asiatic. They are far from buing civilized ; but few cannot read and write. Their language is the same as that of the Burmans, who look on the Aracanese as the prime stock from which they themselves are descended. In religion they are Buddhists, and the priests employ themselves almost entirely in educating the young ; the schools, of which there are two or three in every village, being open to all. They are of filthy habits, and use all kinds of animal and vegetable food; their houses are usually made of bamboo, covered with mats, and raised on piles about 4 ft. from the ground. Limestone, procured from the island of Cheduba, was formerly only em ployed in building temples, its use for private buildings being forbidden. Aracan was an independent kingdom till 1783, when it was overrun by the King of Ava, who attached it to his dominions as a province. In 1825, it was conquered by the British. In 1826, by treaty it was ceded by Burmah to the E. India Company. In 1795, the population was estim ated at upwards of 2,000,000. Since that time it has greatly decreased, but latterly has begun again to increase. Imme diately after the British conquest it was reckoned at 100,000 or 120,000. In 1831, the pop. amounted to 173,928. AEACAN 185 ARAGON (Crawford s Embassy to Ava; Jour. Jioy. Geog. Soc., vols. i., I viii. ; Nautical Hay. ; letter s ErdLunde.) ARACAN, a tn. British India beyond the Ganges, prov. Aracan, of which it formerly was the capital, situated on the river of the same name, 50 m. from the sea ; about lat. 20 45 N. ; Ion. 93 10 E. ; in a valley surrounded by conical hills, and intersected by streams or water-courses, one of which divides the town into two. It was at one time a place of considerable importance, having had a population of 95,000 ; but it is now so much reduced, that, in 1835, its population was estimated at from 8000 to 10,000. This decrease is to be accounted for by the unhealthiness of its situation, and the rise of Akyab (which see). ARACATI, or ARACATY. 1, A river-port, Brazil, prov. of, and about 55 m. S.E. from Ceara, r. bank, Rio Jaquiribe [river of ounces], 10 m. from the sea; lat. 4 31 S. ; Ion. 37 48 W. (R.) It consists principally of one long broad street, with several minor ones branching to the S., and contains a handsome townhall, a prison, three schools, and five churches. The houses are built of a framework made of the stems of the Carnahuba palm, filled up with brick, and are generally two stories in height. The principal exports are cotton and hides, nearly all brought from the interior. Of the former, about 5000 bags, or 25,000 arrobas, of 32 Ibs. each, are exported annually ; and of the latter, 2000. With exception of one hill, situated about 8 m. S.W. of the town, and a few sand-hills near the coast, the country around is extremely flat. In the rainy season, the river, which runs close to the town, often rises 12 ft. above its ordinary level. The bar at the mouth of the river, which has a depth of 8 ft. at low water, is nar row and dangerous, owing to the sand-banks on each side, on which the surf is very violent. The river widens within the bar, and forms rather a spacious bay; but, from the uncertainty of its depth, owing to its shifting sands, cannot be depended on. Pop. about 5000. 2, A river, Brazil, prov. Ceara. It flows S. to N., and falls into the Atlantic by two mouths named Aracati-Acu and Aracati-Mirim, in lat. 3 10 N., after a course of 120 m. ARACENA, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 47 m. N. by E. from Huel va, in a valley, and having four squares, and straight, clean, and well-paved streets; two churches, four convents, three schools, an hospital, barracks, public storehouse, and the relics of an old fortification. Manufac tures : leather and oil ; but the chief occupations are agri culture and cattle-rearing. Pop. 2370. ARACUAHI, a river, Brazil, prov. Minas Gcracs. It rises in the serra Esmeraldas, N. of Villa-do-Principe, flows N.E. and falls into the Jequitinhonha, in lat. 16 45 S., 8 m. W. of Tocoyos, after a course of upwards of 200 m. It is tolerably deep, and might be rendered navigable for more than half of its course. In it are found chrysolite and other precious stones. ARAD. 1, A market tn. Hungary, on the Maros, 145 m. S.E. Pcsth, and 27 m. N. Temcswar, divided by the river into or Alt Arad [Old Arad], and Nj or Neu Arad [New Arad]. The former is an open town, cap. dist. of same name, not very well built, but yet possessing some good houses. It is the seat of a Greek non-united bishop, and contains a Greek theological seminary, a E. catholic gym nasium, and "Wallachian normal school. Manufactures : tobacco and snuff. It has an important fair, second only to the fairs of Pesth and Debreczin ; and a considerable amount of trade is carried on in cattle, and in timber grown in Sieben- biirgen or Transylvania, and floated down the Maros. Nj or New Arad lies across the river from Old Arad, in the Banat of Temeswar ; a bridge which connected the two was destroyed during the late revolution. New Arad is chiefly remarkable for its extensive fortress, one of the strongest in Austria, and used also as a prison for political offenders. The united pop. of Old and New Arad is 20,400; the former 16,400, of whom 5923 are R. catholics, 6985 non-united Greeks, 191 of the Reformed or Calvinistic church, and 725 Jews ; the latter 4000, chiefly Germans, who are the leading persons, and hold the official stations of the town. The DIS TRICT, which has an extent of about 1700 geo. sq. m., and a pop. of 251,600, is finely diversified with mountains and valleys ; the former containing marble quarries, and mines of copper and iron ; and the latter producing in abundance wheat, maize, melons, and other fruits ; flax, tobacco, and excellent wines. VOL. I. ARAD, besides the above, is the name of four small places in Hungary, not deserving a separate notice. 2, One of the Bahrein Islands (which sec). ARAFAT (MOUNT), or JEBEL ER RAIIME [the mountain of mercy], a granite hill, Arabia, 15 m. S.E. Mecca; at the foot of a higher mountain, in a plain about 1 Jm. in diameter, surrounded by barren heights, but separated from them by a rocky valley. It is about 1 or 1 m. in circuit; its sides are sloping, and its summit is nearly 200 ft. above the level of the plain, with broad stone steps leading to the top. It is one of the principal objects of pilgrimage to Mahometans, who affirm that it was the place where Adam first received his wife Eve, after they had been expelled from Paradise, and separated from each other 120 years. On the summit the place is shown where Mahomet used to take his station during the pilgrimage. The mountain not being large enough to accommodate all the devotees that go annually on pilgrimage to Mecca, the law declares, that the plain in the immediate neighbourhood of the mountain may be regarded as com prised under the term Mount of Arafat. Burckhardt, who was present during the pilgrimage in July 1814, estimated the number present on the occasion at 70,000, with at least 40 different languages amongst them. The camp covered a space of between 3 and 4 m. long, and from 1 to 2 in. broad, containing 3000 tents, and from 20,000 to 25,000 camels. A sermon delivered by a priest, from a platform about the 60th step of the mount, constitutes the main ceremony of the pil grimage, and entitles all who hear it to the name and priv ileges of a Hadji. ARAGON, a river, Spain, in Aragon, rising in the Pyrenees, near Canfranc, prov. Huesca, on the borders of France. It flows S. for about 20 m. to Jaca, thence W.N. W. to Thiermas, then S.W. through Navarra ; and, after a course of about 110 m., being augmented by the Agra and several other tributaries, it falls into the Ebro, of which it is one of the most important affluents. ARAGON, or ARRAGON, an anc. kingdom, Spain ; bounded, N. by France, E. by Catalonia, S. by Valencia and New Castile, and W. by the Castiles and Navarra ; length about 240 m., average breadth 90 m. ; area, 21,878 sq. m. It is now divided into the three provinces Ilucsca, Saragossa or Zaragoza, and Teruel. It forms a basin encompassed by mountains the Pyrenees, the sierras of Mosella, Abarracin, Molina, and Soria, while offsets from these chains traverse the interior in all directions. Several peaks of the Pyrenees rise upwards of 1 1 ,000 ft. above the sea ; their tops are covered with perpetual snow. Their sides are clothed with forests of oak, beech, and pine ; while lower down are rich and ex tensive pastures, with many beautiful and fertile valleys. The largest level tract is formed by the valley of the Ebro, which, entering on the W., flows S.E., dividing the province into two nearly equal parts. The Guadalaviar, the Xucar, and the Tagus, have their sources in the extreme S., and the Aragon, an affluent of the Ebro. in the N.W. of this kingdom. The climate is variable, though generally healthy. On the mountains, and especially among the Pyrenees, it is extremely cold, becoming much warmer in the valleys near the Ebro and the Cinca. High and piercing winds from the N.W. and S.E., however, frequently prevail ; those which come sweeping down from the hills of Montcayo being peculiarly piercing. The mountains and forests abound with game, and the rivers with fish. The flora of Aragon is varied and extensive, but, like that of the rest of Spain, little known. Its minerals are marble, jasper, pit coal, copper, iron, lead, quicksilver, cobalt, and alum. Extensive tracts are wholly stony and barren, while others, though capable of cultivation, are en tirely neglected. Still, where proper means are employed, excellent crops are obtained, of grain and fruit, saffron, flax, and hemp. Silkworms are reared in considerable numbers. Manufactures: woollen cloth, linen drapery, cordage, leather, spirits, wine, oil, and soda most of which, with grain and other products of the soil, form articles of exportation. The commerce is limited, the principal means of transport being by the Ebro, and the great canal of Aragon, which, commencing near Tudela in Navarra, joins the Ebro 30 m. below Saragossa; it is 9 ft. deep, and 64 ft. broad at the surface. It was com menced, in 1529, by Charles V., and, after having been abandoned for more than two centuries, was recommenced and finally completed towards the close of the 18th century. ARAGONA 186 ARAL SEA ARAKAN. Sec AKACAN. ARAKHOVA, a small tn., N. Greece, 18 m. W.N.W. Livadia, on a declivity of Mount Parnassus, iu au extremely fertile district. Pop. 2000. ARAL SEA, an extensive lake or inland sea, Indepen dent Tartary; lat. 43 42 41" to 4G 44 42" N.; Ion. 58 18 47 to 61 46 44" E. ; and next to the Caspian Sea, from which it is nearly 200 m. E., the largest lake of the E. hemisphere, having a length, N.E. to S.W., of 265 m. ; a central breadth of 1C5 m., and an area of 17,600 gco. sq. m. Its water is salt, The Aragoncse are hardy, active, brave, and hard-headed, but exceedingly obstinate, hard-hearted, and prejudiced, lovers of self, and religious haters of foreigners, especially of the French. They have also a peculiar dress knee-breeches, broad silken sashes, and broad-brimmed slouched hats. The favourite national air and dance is lajota Aragonesa, winch is brisk and jerky, but highly spirit-stirring to the native, on whom, when far from Aragon, it acts like the pibroch on the exiled Highlander, or the Kanz-des-Vaches on the Swiss, creating an irresistible nostalgia or home-sickness." Aragon is thinly peopled, the total population amounting to 847,105 (Madoz ; Murray s Handbook ; &c.) ARAGONA, a small tn. Sicily, prov. and dist. of Girgenti, from which it is distant 8 m. N.N.E. Its old castle contains a fine gallery of pictures, and some interesting relics of anti quity. In the neighbourhood is the mud volcano of Maccaluba. The district grows great quantities of almonds. Pop. 6530. ARAGUA, a valley and river, Venezuela, prov. Carac- cas. The valley lies S. of the mountain range which skirts the sea along the N. of prov. Caraccas, and adjoins the lake of Tacarigua or Valencia, into which the river falls, after a S.W. course of about 30 m. The valley produces a great quantity of indigo, sugar, cotton, European wheat, and abund ance of tobacco. (Aspects of Nature; Alcedo.) ARAGUARI, a river, Brazil, prov. Para, in Brazilian Guiana. It rises in the serra de Tumucaraque, in lat. 45 N. ; Ion. 52 32 W. ; flows E. ; receives several small tributaries ; forms several small lakes, and falls into the Atlantic, lat. 1 50 N., opposite Ilha Nova. A branch of it flows N.E., and falls into the sea N. of Ilha Coelhos. Another branch flows S.E., and falls into the Irigi. Total course about 160 m. ARAGUAIA, a large river, Brazil, the principal affluent of the Rio Toeantins, which it joins at Sao-Joao-das-duas- Barras, about lat. 6 S. ; Ion. 49 30 W. It rises under the name of Copaiapos, in mountains of the same name, about lat. 18 30 S. ; Ion. 52 W. ; flows N., forming the boundary between the provinces of Goyaz and Matto-Grosso as far as they are conterminous, and bifurcates about lat. 12 20 S., its arms uniting again about lat. 9 30 S., and forming the island of Santa Anna or Bannanal. It has numerous affluents on either side, the principal one being the Rio-das-Mortes, which it receives from the left, opposite the island of Banna nal. The whole course of the Araguia stretches over about 13 degrees of lat., for 1 1 of which it is navigable for the vessels of the country. (Die. Geo. Imp. Brazil.) ARAHAL, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 22 m. . ^ . E.S.E. from Sevilla, on an eminence, the summit of which r zo forms an extensive flat. The houses are ill constructed, of the worst materials ; and it has two squares, three churches, I though not unpleasantly so ; may be used for culinary pur- the townhouses, in one of which is a prison ; a hermitage, poses, and is freely drunk by horses ; it regularly freezes storehouse, Latin school, seven other schools, philosophical | in the N. ; in other directions the ice is seen covering the society, hospital, and cemetery. Manufactures : felt hats, shores as far as the eye can reach, and probably, therefore, soap, gypsum, earthenware, and oilmills and wine ; fruits and other produce are exported, and colonial produce imported. Many of the inhabitants are engaged in agriculture and in rearing cattle. Pop. 6988. ARAISCH (ALor EL), or LAEASHE [the pleasure-garden ; anc. Lixus], a tn. Morocco, prov. Fez, on the steep S. point may, in very severe winters, extend over the whole expanse. Towards the N. the sea narrows, and finally becomes divided into two very unequal portions by the island of Kug-Aral, which stretches across it W. to E. for about 25 m., leav ing between it and the mainland only a very narrow channel on the W., and a passage of about 17 m. wide on the E. The of Wad al Khos [river of the bow, or winding river] ; lat. j portion of the sea N. of the island has an area of about 1600 35 12 48" N.; Ion. 6 9 W. (R.) In 1765, the French entered geo. sq. m., and is called the Kitschkine-Dengis or Little Sea, the river with the intention of bombarding the town; but, in contradistinction to the main expanse, which is called the being induced by a feint of the Moors to advance too far, they Ulu-Dengis or Great Sea, and is ten times larger than the were surrounded and destroyed. Al- A raisch had formerly a other portion, having an area of 16,000 geo. sq. m. The number of good houses, paved streets, several mosques, a Little Sea is of very irregular shape, and divides into two bazaar with stone piazzas, and a fort with two batteries. Its great arms which penetrate far inland, the one N.E. forming large castle on the summit of the hill, the lofty towers of tho mosques and the fortifications, still give it an imposing appear ance when seen from the sea; but, on a nearer approach, the whole is found to be little more than a heap of ruins. The environs are laid out in pleasure-gardens and orchards, from which the town received its name ; but they are now neglected. The once flourishing commerce of the port is also gone. At the entrance of the river is a bar with 5 or 6 ft. water at low tide, within which there is a good port about three quarters of a mile long by one quarter broad, with a depth of 24 ft. Pop. in 1830 and 1834, stated at 4000 ; but, in 1835, 2500, including 500 soldiers, and 250 Jews. (Jour. Roy. Geo. Soc., vol. vi.) the bay of Sary-Tschaganak, and the other N. and W. forming the different bays of Perowski, Paskewitch, Dschideli, and Nesselrode, and containing several islands. The bottom of the Little Sea is muddy, and the depth in many parts exceeds 12 fathoms; the coast, which is deeply indented, presenting many peninsulas and headlands, is in some parts low and sandy, but generally consists of hills varying from 100 to 300 ft. in height, and chiefly composed of clay and salt. The Ulu- Dengis or Great Sea, is of an irregularly circular form, having nearly the same length and breadth. Among its peculiar features are the immense number of low and sandy islands which line its E., and the islands, in much smaller number, but of far larger dimensions, which lie at some dis- ARAMOX 187 ARARAT tance from its W. shore. Of these islands, the largest, in addition to the Kug-Aral, already mentioned, are the Takmak- Aty on the S.W. shore, not far from the mouth of the Amoo- Daria, Nicolas I., the chief island of the Zaren group, about 60 m. off the central W. shore, and Barssa Kilmes towards the N. The greatest depth of the Great Sea is in the W., where, almost close to the shore, a depth of 37 fathoms has been found; the central depth is about 15 fathoms; on the N., and more especially on the E. and S. shores, and near the islands, the water becomes very shallow. The bottom is muddy in the N., but in the S. consists generally of fine sand. The E. and S. coasts are very low, consisting in the former direction of long monotonous tracts of almost barren sand, and in the latter direction of alluvial flats overflowed by the Amoo-Daria, which here forms large swamps generally covered with reeds. The most remarkable of these swamps is that of the Ajbujir, or Lauclan, which commences at the S.W. extremity, and stretches southwards in an irregular curve for about 80 m. The W. coast, forming the E. abutment of the plateau of Ust- Urt, is generally bold and lofty, consisting of cliffs of sand stone, clay, and limestone, with scarcely an opening in them where a boat can land. These cliffs lower gradually, both on the N. and S. ; but towards the centre form precipices of 500 ft. high. This is the only part of the Aral Sea where the scenery approaches to grandeur. The only rivers which it receives are the Sir-Daria, Jihoon, or Jaxartes, which joins it on the N.E., and the Amoo-Daria, Jihoon, or Oxus, which enters it by several mouths on the S. It has no outlet. The prevalence of N.E. winds blowing for months without inter ruption, the violence of storms and hurricanes, and the occa sional occurrence of lengthened calms, when not a breath of wind is felt, are very unfavourable to the navigation of the sea. Fish of numerous varieties abound, but the absence of seals, so common in the Caspian, is remarkable. The only part of the Aral shores regularly inhabited, is the S.W. and S. ; but in winter the N. and E. shores and adjacent islands are frequented by Kirghises. The Aral Sea lies between the steppes of Kirghis and Khiva, in the great depression of W. Asia; and, in Humboldt s opi nion, is on the same level as the Caspian, of which, in times remote, it doubtless formed a part. At first it is sup posed to have been but an enlargement of the Oxus, now its principal tributary, but then an affluent of the Caspian, to which again, in recent years, part of its waters seems to have found its way ; accumulations of sand filled up the old bed of the Oxus, and thus transformed an enlargement of the stream into a lake. The Aral Sea has no visible outlet, and as its affluents do not furnish a supply of water equal to the amount of evaporation that takes place, the lake is supposed to be de creasing in size. This opinion is supported by the reports of the natives; and receives a further confirmation from the fact that N.E. winds being prevalent in these regions, the quantity of sand wafted hither by them from the arid wastes to the E. and N. is very great. The map is after Jakob Clianykow s map of the Aral Sea and Khanate of Khiva. (Basiner, Nor turwiss. Rrise durch Kirgisensteppe. St. Petersburg, 1848; Humboldt s Asie Coitrale; Zimmermann, Denkschrift ul>er unt. Lav/ Oxus ; Jour. Roy. Geo. Soc., vol. xiii. ; Maksche- jew, BcscJireib. Aralsee s, in Monatsberichte iiber die Ver- hand. der Gesell. Erdkunde zu Berlin, 1852.) AR AMON, a tn. France, dep. Gard, 15m. E.N.E.Nismes, r. bank, Rhone ; with manufactures of ropes, saltpetre, and earthenware. Pop. 2640. ARAN (VALLEY OF), a secluded mountain-hollow, France, in the Pyrenees, dep. Haute-Garonne, on the frontiers of Spain, and overlooked S.W. by Maladetta (10,890 ft.), the culminating peak of the Pyrenees. Area, 260 sq. m. It may be considered as the continuation of the valley of the Garonne, which, above St. Beat, is called Val d Aran. Much of it con sists of mountain acclivities; and it is traversed S.E. to N.W. by the head waters of the Garonne. Three towns, Viella, Salardu, and Bosost, and 27 villages, are scattered over the valley, which is inhabited by rude mountaineers, who are con stantly engaged in smuggling, except during summer, when they seek employment in the S. of France. Pop. about 1 3,000. ARAN DA DK DUERO, a decayed tn. Spain, Old Castile, prov. and 46 m. S. Burgos, r. bank, Duero, here crossed by a handsome stone bridge of three arches. The river is fringed with rows of poplars, over which the balconied houses hang with an agreeable effect. Some of the houses are built of wood and brick, and betray a considerable propensity to fall over ; many of the streets are irregular, short, and narrow. Aranda has a townhall, an unhealthy and ill-arranged prison, a mont-de-pitte, three schools, and two churches. The portal of the church of San Juan Baptista is a fine specimen of Gothic architecture, and is enriched with niches, statuary, and well- executed high reliefs. The Dominican convent has also a handsome portal. In former times, Aranda was frequently a residence of the Kings of Castile, whose palace is still standing. The inhabitants are almost wholly employed in agriculture ; chiefly in raising grapes, from which a dark, weak, and not disagreeable wine is produced, to the extent of about 500,000 gallons annually. As it does not keep more than a year, it is all consumed in the surrounding country. Pop. 4122. (Madoz ; Hughes Lisbon.) ARANJUEZ [AEA JQVIS], a tn. Spain, in New Castile, prov. of, and 28 m. S. from Madrid, and 22 m. E.N.E. Toledo, in an extensive valley, 1. bank, Tagus, chiefly famous for its royal palace, and as being a place of retirement for the court during the spring months. The town is regularly built, in the Dutch style, with lines of trees on either side of the spacious streets ; and is clean, and presents an agreeable aspect. Its Dutch appearance is due to Grimaldi, minister to Charles III., who had been at the Hague, and by whom the town was re modelled. It has a church and two chapels, several schools, an hospital, a fine public square, entered through a marble triumphal arch in front of the entry to the palace-grounds, and adorned in the centre with a marble fountain ; a noble bull-ring, and a tolerable theatre. The inhabitants are en gaged in agriculture, in the manufacture of crystal, leather, soap, chocolate, and in ministering to the numerous visitors who sojourn in Aranjuez while the court is there. The royal palace, at the Madrid end of the town, and close upon the Tagus, is a building possessing no architectural beauty, and deriving its sole attractions from the fine .gardens and wooded pleasure-grounds by which it is surrounded, which are un doubtedly on a scale of great magnificence. It was here that Charles IV., March 19, 1808, abdicated his crown. The Casa del Labrador, erected by that same monarch, is a pretentious building, in gaudy Asiatic taste, filled with artistic articles ; but described as being more a kingly toy than anything else. Aranjuez and its vicinity is reckoned a kind of earthly paradise by the natives of Madrid ; and to those who have only been accustomed to the arid, treeless Castiles, it must indeed appear an oasis in the desert, with its green, leafy foliage, its brooks, gardens, and singing birds, among which last the nightingale is especially famous. After the month of May, the summer sun, acting on the waters and marshes in the vicinity, fills the air with fever and ague ; and during the winter the atmosphere is moist and cold. When the court is at Aranjuez, the popu lation sometimes numbers about 20,000; at other times it docs not reach 4000. (Madoz ; Willkomm.) ARANSAS. 1, A tn. Texas, the port of entry for Aran- sas Bay, in Refugio co., 170 m. S. Austin, on a peninsula, and having a considerable trade with Mexico. Aransas Pass, the entrance to the bay, is in lat. 27 50 N.; Ion. 97 2 W. (R.), between the islands of Matagorda and San Jose, in the Gulf of Mexico. The bay, within the peninsula on which the town stands, is about 20 m. long, by 7 to 10 broad. It has a depth of from 12 to 16 ft. The harbour is secure. 2, A river which flows into this bay. It is about 80 m. long, and has a few small tributaries. ARANYOS, a river, Austrian empire, in Transylvania, formed by the confluence of the Greater and the Lesser Aran- yos, which rise in Mount Kalimyasza, near the Hungarian frontier, about lat. 46 28 N., and unite near the village of Topanfalva. After a circuitous course of about 90 m. W. to E.N.E. it falls into the Maros, about 7 m. E.N.E. Fel Vincz. Grains of gold are found in the bed of this river, hence its name, Aranyos, golden ; from arany, gold. ARARAT, a celebrated mountain, W. Asia, in Armenia, forming the point of contact of Russia with Turkey and Persia, to all of which it belongs. It lies in the S. portion of the extensive plain of the Aras, about 35 m. broad, and of whose length about 70 m. can be taken in by the eye. It consists of two mountains, the Great Ararat, on the N.W. ; and the Less Ararat, on the S.E. ; their summits, in a direct line, being about 7 m. apart, and their bases insensibly blend- ARARAT 188 ARARAT ing into each other by the interposition of a wide, level, upland valley. The summit of the Great Ararat lies in lat. 39 42 N. ; Ion. 43 38 E., and is 17,323 ft. above the sea level, and 14,320 ft. above the plain of the Aras. The N.E. slope of the mountain is about 14 m. in length, and the S.W. about 20 m. On the former, visible even from Erivan, 32 m. distant, is a deep, gloomy, crater-like chasm. The mountain is covered with perpetual snow and ice, for about 3 m. from its summit downward, in an oblique direction. On the entire N. half, from about 14,000 ft. above the sea, it shoots up in one rigid crest to its summit, and then stretches downward on its S. side to a level not quite so low, forming what is called the Silver Crest of Ararat. Little Ararat rises 13,093 ft. above the sea level, and 10,140 ft. above the plain of the Aras ; and is free from snow in September and October. Its declivities are greater and steeper than those of the Great Ararat ; and its almost conical form is marked with several delicate furrows, that radiate downwards from its summit. The top of the Great Ararat was first reached, October 9, 1829, by Professor Parrot, who reports it to be a gently vaulted, nearly cruciform surface, of about 200 paces in circuit, which at the margin sloped off precipitously on every side, but particularly towards the S.E. and N.E. Formed of eternal ice, without rock or stone to interrupt its continuity, it was the austere silvery head of Old Ararat. Towards the E. this summit is connected, by means of a flat- tish depression, with a lower summit, distant 397 yards ; and, in like manner, covered with ice. After remaining on the summit three-quarters of an hour, determining the height, and making various observations, Parrot descended to the mon astery of St. James ; the third day after, he left it. The observations of Parrot have been in every respect confirmed by another Russian traveller, named Abich, who reached the summit of the Great Ararat without difficulty, July 29, 1845. He, with six others, remained an hour on the top, without experiencing any inconvenience from cold, so much felt by Parrot and his companions. Abich, previous to making the ascent, had his tent for some time pitched on the upper slope of the mountain, in the valley between the two peaks, nearly GOOO ft. above the sea. He reports the important fact, that from this point the ascent can with facility be accomplished, few obstructions interfering with the progress of the traveller compared with those met with on the ascent from the mon astery of St. James. It would appear even that the ascent of Mount Ararat is easier than that of Mont Blanc ; for the height of the latter, above the valley of Chamouni, is 12,000 ft. ; while that of the former, above the point where Abich pitched his tent, cannot be above 9000 ft. ; and the limit of perpetual snow is lower on the Swiss than on the Armenian mountain. The season most suitable for the ascent is the end of July or beginning of August, when the summer attains its greatest heat, and when there is annually a period of atmo spheric quiet, aecompanied by a clear, unclouded sky. So soon, however, as the fine days in the earlier part of August are over, the atmospheric war commences in the higher regions of the air, the strife being hottest between the two great peaks. Then there is no certainty of fine weather, for sudden thunderstorms, always on the higher parts of the mountains accompanied by hail and snow, endanger the life of the travel ler. This continual elemental strife has left, on the summit of the Little Ararat, an enduring memorial of its rigour in the lightning-tubes with which the rocks are bored. These tubes are covered with a greenish glass, which was formerly sup posed to be obsidian. So numerous are they on the highest peaks, that they impart to the rock the appearance of worm- i bored wood. ARARAT, FROM TlIE PLAIN OF ERIVAN From a Paintm* by J. Baillie Fraser, Ks<j. Wholly isolated on the N., S., and E. sides, this enor mous mass shoots up abruptly from the plain on which it stands, in stupendous grandeur, to the eye exceeding in height the giants both of the Himalaya and the Andes. The N.W. slope of this mountain is partially connected with a chain, which, running W. into Turkish Armenia, borders the entire r. bank of the Axares; its W. end, wheeling round the head waters of that river, touches Erzeroom, and gives to the I. bank a mountain-barrier similar to that which exists on the right. All travellers attest the volcanic nature of the Ararat mountains, as evidenced by the stones found on all their slopes, undoubtedly the products of a crater. They are composed chiefly of trachytic porphyry, and on them pumice and various descriptions of lava have been met with (Parrot, p. 198). Reineggs avers that he saw the Great Ararat send forth smoko and flame for three days, in 1785 ; but this is believed to be one of the many romances which tliat traveller has related. No such occurrence was remembered, in 1843, by individuals resident on the mountain at the period indicated, and no erup tion is found recorded in the chronicles of the monastery of Echmiadzin, though they extend back over a period of 800 years. All doubt as to the volcanic nature of the two Ararats was put an end to on July 2, 1840, when an eruption took place from the head of the great chasm, which destroyed the monastery and chapel of St. James, the village of Arguri, and their inmates. (See ARGURI.) Dr. Wagner, an enterprising German traveller and naturalist, who visited the spot in 1843, gives in substance the following account of that event, as related by Sahatel Chotschaieff, brother to Stephan Aga, vil lage elder of Arguri, honourably mentioned both by Parrot and Dubois, arid confirmed by other two eye-witnesses : On July 2, 1840, half an hour before sunset, the atmosphere clear, the inhabitants of Armenia were frightened by a thunder ing noise, that rolled loudest and most fearfully in the vicinity of the Great Ararat. During an undulating motion of the earth, lasting about two seconds, which rolled from the moun tain E. and S.E., and wrought great destruction in the districts of Sharur and Nakhichevan, a rent was formed in the end of the great chasm, about 3 m. above Arguri, out of which rose gas and vapour, hurling with immense force stones and earth ARARAT 189 ARAS over the slope of tlio mountain down into the plain. The vapour rose very quickly higher than the summit of Ararat, and seems to have been wholly of aqueous composition ; for in the same night a heavy rain fell in the vicinity of the moun tain an unusual occurrence in this country (luring summer. The vapour at first was of various colours, in which blue and red prevailed. Whether flames burst forth could not be ascertained ; but the pillars of vapour or smoke had a red tint, which, had the eruption taken place during the night, might possibly have exhibited flame. The blue and red tint of the vapour soon became dark black, and immediately the air was filled with a very disagreeable smell of sulphur. While the mountain continued to heave, and the earth to shake, with the unremitting thunder, along with the subterranean cracking and growling, might be heard the whiz, as of bombs, caused by the force with which stones and large masses of rock, some upwards of 50 tons weight, were hurled through the air. Likewise, the dash of the stones as they met in the air in their flight, could be distinguished from the thundering noise issuing from the interior of the mountain. Where these large stones fell, there in general they lay; for in consequence of the gentle declination of the ground at the foot of the moun tain, to roll far was impossible. The eruption continued a full hour. When the vapour had cleared away, and the shower of stones and mud had ceased, the rich village of Arguri, the monastery and chapel of St. James, were not to be seen ; all, along with their inmates, were buried under the mass of stones and mud that had been ejected. The earthquake, which accompanied the eruption, destroyed 6000 houses in the neighbouring districts of Nakhichevan, Sharur, and Ardubad. Four days after a second catastrophe occurred, which spread still further the work of destruction at the foot of the moun tain. After the rent in the chasm, whence issued the vapour and stones, had closed, there remained in the same place a deep basin filled with water by the melting of the snow, by the rain, and by a streamlet from above, so as to form a small lake. The mass of stone and clay, which formed a dam, and surrounded the lake like the edge of a crater, was burst by the weight of water, and poured down the declivity of the mountain with irresistible force a stream of thick mud, which spread into the plain, and partly stopped up the bed, and altered the course of the small river Karasu. A part of the gardens of Arguri that had escaped the eruption, were de stroyed by this stream of mud, which carried trees, rocks, and the bodies of the inhabitants of the village, down into the plain, and to the bed of the Karasu. This stream of mud was three times repeated, and was accompanied by subter ranean noises. A document, purporting to be an account of this remarkable occurrence, was drawn up by a Kussian officer, Major Wos- koboinikoff, who, however, did not approach the mountain nearer than Erivan, where he obtained his information solely from inhabitants of that town, who had visited the place after the eruption. He narrates, that the mass which covered up St. James s monastery and Arguri was loosened by the earth quake from the highest regions of the mountain. This vera cious document, preserved in the town archives of Tiflis, gave rise to the erroneous report that a part of Ararat had fallen, and that the snowy summit had considerably sunk ; which story Dr. Wagner distinctly contradicts, not only from very perfect evidence derived from a minute investigation of the locality, but also from the concurrent testimony of numerous individuals who had spent their whole life on Ararat, and in its vicinity. Another fable, which has gained some currency, is that this mountain forms a landmark for the navigators of the Caspian Sea, to which a sufficient refutation is furnished by the fact, that the nearest point of the Caspian is about 260 m. distant. There are several glaciers on the Great Ararat, from one of which flowed the stream that passed through the village of Arguri ; the lowest begin about 10,000 ft. above the sea level. The fauna of Ararat is very poor, the only mammal, ac cording to Wagner, being the common hare rather agile prey for the tigers Tournefort avers that he saw, and, even when caught, calculated to form but a scanty repast for such an animal. Birds are tolerably numerous till about half way up the great chasm, beyond which they do not ascend. The most celebrated is the rose-starling (Sturnus roseus), famed as a locust-killer. Insects are numerous, among which, as peculiar, may be noted the curiously-formed coleopter, Cal- listhenes Araraticus. One reason for the small number of the mammalia is, doubtless, the want of water on the mountain, which at the same time causes a scant vegetation. Still, many forms of plants are to be met with. The Great Ararat, on its N. side at all events, has no trees ; but on the Little Ararat, the birches form quite a forest, due no doubt to the greater moistnuss of the soil. In autumn, yellow achillese, white scabiosae, and different kinds of composite, chiefly of red tints, are prominent. A few specimens of Juniperus oxycedrus and Cotoneaster uniflora are to be seen. The Alpine veget ation is the same as on the Caucasus ; and the most frequently to be met with are Aster alpinus and pulchellus, Campanula saxifraga, Pyrethrum caucasicum, and Centaurea pulcherrima. That Noah s ark rested on the top of Mount Ararat is not to be credited; the difficulty of the descent, and the low tem perature of the atmosphere, which must have killed many ot the animals, alike preclude the supposition ; and, moreover, Scripture does not say it rested on the top, but merely on the mountains of Ararat. If this be the mountain there referred to, which is somewhat doubtful, seeing that the olive does not grow near it, the ark must have rested on one of its lower slopes. The name Ararat 5s said to be derived from Arai, a king who lived 1750 years B.C. He fell in battle, in an Armenian plain, which was hence called Arai-Arat the fall of Arai. Before him reigned Amassis, the sixth from Japhet, who called the country Amasia ; hence the name Massis, by which alone Armenians in the present day know the mountain. By the Turks and Persians it is called Agridagh. The third syllable dayh, means mountain ; but philologists are not agreed on the signification of Acjri. (Parrot s Journey to Ararat; Wagner s Eeise nach clem Ararat; Dubois, Voyage autour du Caucase; Die Bestciyung des Ararat, am July 29, 1845, durch H. Abich, St. Petersburg, 1849.) ARARAUMA, a salt-water lake, Brazil, prov. Eio de Janeiro ; length, E. to W., 22 m, ; greatest breadth, 1\ m. It communicates with the sea, to which it lies parallel, and from which it is separated by a strip of land about 4 m. broad ; and has a depth, according to the state of the tide, of from 26 to 80 ft. It receives the waters of several streams. At its E. extremity is the town of Cabo Frio, whence the sugar, rice, millet, French beans and coffee, produced plenti fully on its banks, and brought chiefly from the small ports of Capitao-Mor, and Mataruna, are transhipped to Rio de Janeiro. (Die. Geo. Imp. Brazil.) ARARIPE (SEURA DE), an elevated table-land, Brazil, between 4 and 6 m. S.W. the tn. of Crato or Cratto, in about lat. 6 30 S. ; Ion. 38 30 W. It forms a semicircle round the undulatory plain on which Crato is situated, and is the source of a great many fertilizing streams. In some places the ascent is steep and rugged. In the serra de Araripe, George Gardner, Esq., late superintendent of the Royal Botanic Gardens of Ceylon, found the chalk formation, which, it was previously believed, did not exist in any part of the continent of S. America. ARAS [anc. Araxes], a large river, W. Asia. It rises in Mount Bin-Gheul, about 10 m. S.E. Erzeroom in Turkish Armenia; lat. 39 47 N.; Ion. 41 45 E. Its course is E.N.E. for 150 m., when it enters Russian Armenia, and deflects to the S.E. round the base of Mount Ararat, turns again N.E. about lat. 37 N.., and continues in that direction till its junction with the Kur at Jeval or Djavat, in lat. 39 54 N. ; Ion. 48 30 E., .after a course of above 500 m. It is a rapid dirty river, and opposite Mount Ararat it is described as having high steep banks, and a bed of clay-slate filled with limestone shingle. From the steepness of its banks its water cannot be used for the purpose of irrigation, which the country round Mount Ararat stands greatly in need of, the whole plain of the Aras being here nearly destitute of vegetation. In some parts, however, a hard kind of grass (Dactylis littoralis) occurs, on which large quantities of a spe cies of the cochineal insect are found. There is a ford passable all the year at Yedu Balook, near Ion. 48 E., where its bed is from 3 to 4 m. across. It was known to Herodotus under the name of Araxes, but this must not be confounded with tho Araxes of Xenophon, which is the Chaborras of Strabo, and an affluent of the Euphrates, (London Geo. Jour.; Parrot s Journey to Ararat. ARASAIG 190 ARAURE ARASAIG, a vil. and dist. Scotland, co. Inverness, W. coast ; the name also of a promontory in the district, lying between two inlets of the sea, Loch Nanuagh on the S., and Loch-Da -Gaul on the N. In the village there is a neat li. ctholic chapel Steamers call regularly off this place. ARAT1CA, or CAKLSIIOFF, an isl., S. Pacific, one of the Paumotu group or Paliser Islands, about. 310 m. N.E. by E. from Tahiti, W. point in lat. 15 35 N. ; Ion. 145 38 W. (R.) ARAU. See AARAU. ARAUCANIA, an independent territory, S. part of Chili, between lat. 37 29 and 40 18 S., having the Andes on the E., and the Pacific on the W. Its S. and N. boundaries, however, not being precisely known, are somewhat differently stated by different authorities. Its entire length, taking the limits above assigned to it, is about 200 m. ; its breadth from 90 to 180. As it differs little in its physical features, climate, or productions, from other parts of Chili (winch see), this article will be limited to an account of its inhabitants, who, though greatly overrated by the Spanish writers, form one of the most remarkable, perhaps, of all the uncivilized or semi- barbarous races. "With some of the vices common to all savage nations, the Araucanians possess many noble qualities. They are generous and humane towards the vanquished, courteous, hospitable, benevolent, and grateful, enthusiastic lovers of liberty, and ever ready to sacrifice their lives in the service of their country, the independence of which they have successfully maintained for centuries by their indomitable courage, and singular aptitude for war. Seeing the evils of which gold is the cause, the Araucanians, after they had expelled the Spaniards from their country by force of arms, closed their mines, avowing the most profound contempt for that precious metal, as the source of infamous cruelty, unmanly avarice, and degrading servitude. They are highly suscepti ble of mental culture, but despise the restraints of civilization ; all of those who have been educated in the Spanish colonies having embraced the first opportunity of resuming the haunts and habits of their nation. They cultivate poetry and rhetoric, and are so desirous of excellence in the latter art, that their boys are brought to their public assemblies to hear speeches, and to learn to speak in public. Their style of oratory, as might be expected in the case of a semi-barbarous people, is highly figurative and allegorical in imagery and sentiment, and lively, bold, and original. This remarkable race are of ordinary stature, but muscular, robust, and well-proportioned. Their complexion is of a clear reddish brown, faces round, eyes animated and expressive, mouth handsome, teeth even and white, with little or no beard, all traces of which, when such appear, are carefully removed, although the hair of the head is assiduously cultivated. Possessed of great strength of constitution, neither the symptoms of decay nor the infirmities of age appear until they are far advanced in life ; their sight, teeth, and memory remaining unimpaired till the latest period of their existence. Their most prominent vices are drunken ness, debauchery, and presumption. The Araucanians have divided their country into four tetrarchies or districts, corresponding to the natural divisions of the country, namely, the maritime country, the plain country, the foot of the Cordilleras and the Andes. Each of these is governed by a toqui or tetrarch, independent of each other in the civil administration of their respective territories, but confederated for the general good of the whole country. Each tetrarchate is divided into nine provinces, commanded by apoulmencs, and these, again, into nine dis tricts, presided over by ulmencs or prefects, who are subject to the former. All these offices are hereditary in the male line, and the limit of their authority carefully defined. The criminal jurisprudence is very imperfect, and not at all in accordance with the general intelligence of the people. Justice, when administered at all, is administered in a tumultuous and irregular manner, but is oftener left to the caprice of indivi duals, whence arise interminable feuds, and mutual incursions on each other s possessions, attended by great destruction of property, but without effusion of blood, as, though a warlike and violent people, they rarely employ arms in their private quarrels. The military government is more rational and better systematized than the civil. They maintain no standing army ; but, as every Araucanian is born a soldier, no sooner is war proclaimed than all offer their services, and thus a force of 5000 or GOOO men is quickly in the field. Their army consists of infantry and horse ; the former variously armed with muskets, clubs, pikes, bows and arrows, and slings ; the latter with swords and lances. Their system of fighting is to close with the enemy as soon as they can, which they do with tremendous shouts and yells, and with a fierceness and im petuosity which no ordinary resolution can withstand. The army is led by a commander-in-chief, appointed by a grand or general council, who selects his subalterns, and is implicitly obeyed by all ranks. The Araucanians have little commerce of any kind, and all their transactions are conducted by barter. The articles which they usually give in exchange for goods are horses and horned cattle. In these dealings they always act with per fect good faith. When a trader from Spanish Chili comes amongst them, the Araucanian takes what he wants, without being required to give at the time the equivalent agreed upon. Sometime afterwards, the trader, having visited all the huts dispersed over the part of the country he is in, intimates that he is about to return, when not one fails to bring to the place appointed, generally the cottage of the chief, whatever he had bargained to give in exchange for the goods he had taken, which consist generally of edge tools, toys, and wine. Polygamy obtains amongst the Araucanians, and celibacy is considered ignominious. Their marriage ceremonies have little formality, consisting in little more than carrying off the bride by pretended violence. The women pay great attention to cleanliness in their houses, which are swept several times a day, and all their utensils carefully washed immediately after being used. They are equally cleanly in their persons, so are also the men, and all are partial to frequent bathing. Their dress is made of wool. That of the men consists of a shirt, a vest, a pair of short, close breeches, and a cloak called a poncho, the whole of a greenish blue, the favourite colour of the nation. In the case of the upper classes, however, the poncho is of various colours. On their heads they wear a bandage of embroidered wool, which, on going to war, is ornamented with a number of beautiful plumes. The common people go barefooted ; persons of rank wear woollen boots of various colours, and leather sandals. The women are modestly and simply attired. Their dress consists of a tunic, a girdle, and a short cloak, fastened in front with a silver buckle. They divide their hair into tresses, which float gracefully over their shoulders. The Araucanians subsist chiefly on grain, pulse, and potatoes, of the last of which they have cultivated a great variety from time immemorial. They eat but little flesh or fish. Their usual drinks consist of various kinds of beer or cider. They use also great quantities of wine, of which they are extremely fond ; but having paid no attention to the raising of vines, they are obliged to purchase it from the Spaniards. Their religion is simple. They acknowledge a Supreme Being, whom they believe to be attended by some inferior deities, who execute his behests. They believe also in the immortality of the soul, but have some absurd notions regard ing the future state. It is somewhat remarkable, however, that they have among them a tradition of a great deluge, in which only a few persons were saved, who took refuge upon a high mountain called Thegtheg [the thundering] , which had three points, and still, whenever a violent earthquake occurs, they fly to the mountain in fear that the sea will again return and overwhelm the world. Their funeral ceremonies, which are both numerous and complicated, are striking manifestations of the absurdities in which they believe. Araucania is the subject of a laudatory epic poem by Don Alonso de Ercilla, a Spanish poet of the 16th century, entitled Araucana. It comprises 37 cantos or 42,000 verses, and, though not want ing in lofty feeling, is so destitute of animation and of all poetic enthusiasm, and so overloaded with proper names, as to have been likened to a newspaper in rhyme. The pop. of Araucania has been estimated at 70,000. ARAUCO, a vil. Araucania, near the mouth of the Tu- capel, at the head of a bay, 30 m. S. Conception. It is about 300 yards square; enclosed by a wall 12 ft. high, and guarded by towers at two of the angles ; and consists of about 50 or GO houses, arranged in rows. ARAURE, a city, Venezuela, pleasantly situated, 1. bank, Acarigua, an affluent of the Portuguesa, GO m. E.N.E. Trux- illo ; lat. 9 17 N. ; Ion. 69 28 W. The streets are straight, and the houses well built. It contains a handsome square and church. It is cap. of a well watered, fertile district, which ARAVULLI 101 ARBROATn yields cotton and coffee, and depastures numerous herds of cattle. Pop. 10,000. ARAVULLI MOUNTAINS, a range of mountains which traverses the territory of Eajpootana, N.W. India, from S.S.W. to N.N.E. ; extending from lat. 24 to 28 N., or about 300 m. It nowhere attains any great elevation, the highest summit not exceeding 5000 ft. above the level of the sea, but its declivities, especially those to the \V., are so extremely steep as to he nearly inaccessible. The range is composed of rocks of primitive formation, granite, quartz, compact dark-blue slate, gneiss, and sienite. Several kinds of valuable stones are found here, including garnets, rock- crystal, and an inferior sort of emerald. The southern ex tremity of the chain is united to the Vindhya by a hilly and broken country. ARAWAN (EL), a tn. Sahara, territory of Zawat, 125 m. N. Timbuctoo ; lat. 18 55 N. ; Ion. 3 W. Fifty m. S. from this town is the spot on which Major Laing was mur dered, in 1826, on his return from Timbuctoo. ARAXAS, a tn. Brazil, formerly in prov. Goyaz, but by decree of April 4, 1816, transferred to prov. Minas Geraes. It lies W. of the Malta Corda Mountains, 220 m. S.E. Go yaz, and about 240 m. N.W. Villa Eica; lat. 19 S. ; Ion. 48 30 W. It has a church, townhouse, and prison. The district attached to it has mineral springs in three different localities ; and abounds in fine pastures, on which numerous cattle are reared, and land fitted for growing cotton, which is cultivated to some extent. The inhabitants manufacture cotton cloth, and dispose of it in the trading towns of Minas Geraes. Pop. of tn. and dist., the latter extensive, 5000. (Die. Geo. Imp. Bradl.} ARAXES. See ARAS. ARBE, an isl. in the Adriatic, Gulf of Qnarnero, belonging to Austria, 11 m. in length ; and, at the broadest part, about the centre, 4 m. across. Some parts of it are mountainous and uninhabited ; but it contains several extensive and fer tile valleys, which produce corn, olives, wine, and figs, and afford good pasturage for sheep and cattle. Its chief exports are sheep, hogs, horses, hides, wool, fish, and wine. The principal town is on the S.W. side of the island ; it is built on a hill, and contains a cathedral and collegiate church. Pop. between 4000 and 5000. ARBEL, ARBIL, or ERBIT, [anc. Arlcla], a tn. Asiatic Turkey, in a fertile plain, r. bank, Little Zab, 56 m. S.E. Mosul. It derives its chief interest from the celebrated battle of Arbela, in which Alexander the Great defeated Darius, and decided the fate of Persia, B.C. 331. It subsequently formed part of the dominions of a family of Persian or Arabic princes, and is now the capital of a sanjak in the Turkish pashalic of Bagdad. It was at one time a large and important city, defended by a strong fortress built upon a conical hill, and capable of containing a large garrison. The town stands on a large mound 60 or 70 ft. high, 900 ft. long, and 600 wide. It is enclosed by a brick wall with bastions, and contains three large mosques, and two baths. At the foot of the mound is another town, surrounded by a mud wall, and nearly ruined and deserted. Pop. 6000. (Royal Geo. Jour., vol. viii.) ARBIL. See ARBEL. ARBIRLOT, a par. Scotland, co. Forfar ; 5050 ac. ; con tains a mineral spring, once held in repute. Pop. in 1841, 978. ARBOE, a par. Ireland, cos. Londonderry and Tyrone ; 33,504 ac. ; contains an ancient abbey and ornamented stone cross. Pop. 8005. ARBOGA, a small tn. Sweden, Ian of, and 30 m. S.W. Westerns ; beautifully situated on the navigable river Arboga, by which it is intersected, and near the Arboga Canal, which unites the river with Lake Hielmar. It has two churches and a small library; mineral springs, iron manufactures, boat building, and some coasting trade. It is one of the oldest towns in Sweden ; in its vicinity many antiquities are found ; and within its walls the Diet frequently sat. Pop. 2013. (Possart, Handbucli fur Scliweden; Skbldberg, Bcsltrifning ifoer SlandinavisTca Halfim.) ARBOIS [anc. Arbosivm], a tn. France, dep. Jura (Franche-Comtel, 45 m. S.E. Dijon. The hills around form the sides of a cup, in the centre of which the town is situated. The lower slopes of the hills are covered with gardens, the higher with vineyards, from which wines of great celebrity are obtained. These wines are generally white, and are made from white grapes. They are all good, and are sent far and wide ; but there is one surpassing all the rest, called vin de (jelee [frost wine], because always made late in autumn, often after the first frosts of winter. The manufactures are chiefly leather and paper. There are here several sawmills driven by water, and part of the ground is laid out in nurseries. In the neighbourhood is a good vein of nitre. Pop. 6730. ARBOLEAS, or ARBOLEDAS, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 41 m. N.N.E. from Almeria, near the r. bank of the Almanzora, on a declivity, 20 m. from the sea. Its streets are rough and steep. It has a square, a church, town and court-houses, prison, two schools, and a public storehouse. Manufactures : saltpetre, fine soap, gypsum, linen, counter panes, and horse-cloths. It exports fruits, horses, and eggs, and imports oil. Pop 2378. ARBOLETES, a small seaport tn. New Granada, on the Gulf of Darien ; lat. 8 55 N. ; Ion. 76 25 W. It is de scribed by Alcedo as a recess at once beautiful, capacious, and quiet ; covered with trees, sheltered from every wind, and irrigated with a small river of delicious water. ARBON [anc. Arbor Felix], a small tn. Switzerland, can. Thurgau, cap. circle of same name, S.W. shore, Lake Con stance, 7 m. N.N.E. St. Gall ; chiefly remarkable as the site of a Itoman fortress, and of the ancient castle of the bishops of Constance. It has printworks, dyeworks, cotton and silk manufactures, and a small port upon the lake. Flax, vines, and fruit trees are cultivated in its neighbourhood, which is picturesque. Pop. of tn. and par., composed almost equally of Protestants and Catholics, 1130. ARBORFIELD, a par. England, co. Berks, S.W. Wokingham. Pop. in 1841, 300. ARBROATH, formerly ABERBROTIIOCK, a seaport and manufacturing tn. Scotland, co. Forfar or Angus, at the rnouth of a small stream called the Brothock, whence the name of the town; the prefix, Aber (Gaelic), designating the mouth of a river, or its point of junction with the sea ; lat. 56 33 42" N.; Ion. 2 35 W. (R.) It is 16 m. N.E. Dundee; on the Dundee and Arbroath line of railway, now connected with the railways to the N. and S. of Scotland. It consists of one spacious street, about half a mile in length, running N. to S., and a number of smaller, intersecting each other; all well lighted with gas. Many of the shops are handsomely fitted up, and well stocked. The houses are generally well built, and the whole town has a cleanly and prosperous ap pearance, but is indifferently supplied with water. It contains several respectable modern public buildings, including a neat and tasteful tower, called the Signal Tower, for communicat ing with the celebrated Bell Eock lighthouse (see BELL EOCK), about 1 2 m. distant. The places of worship are the parish church, with an elegant spire ; three Free churches, three United Presbyterian churches, an original Secession, Epi scopalian (Scottish), a E. catholic, Wesleyan Methodist, Con gregational, and Glassite. There are public reading-rooms in the town, with a well-supported public library, and several excellent scientific, educational, and charitable institutions. The principal manufactures are yarn, spun from flax and hemp ; canvas, brown and bleached linen, leather, cast iron, and bone- dust. There are 18 spinning-mills, most of them very exten sive, and four power-loom factories. The leather manufacture is very important ; and shipbuilding is likewise carried on to a considerable extent. Arbroath is a free port, and owns about 13,000 tons of shipping ; being an increase of 5000 tons since 1841. A new harbour has been erected and completed within the last eight years. It consists of a basin 124 yards long, by 80 broad. At the entrance, which is at the S.W. corner, there are 15 ft. water at spring tides, and 9 or 10 at neap tides. Though small, it is secure, but of rather difficult access. A small light, of red colour, is shown on the N. pier head, on the starboard side on entering the harbour. It is lighted by the pilots only when vessels are in the bay, in order to show the proper time of the tide for them to enter, and commonly visible 2 or 3 in. off, when the weather is clear. The roadstead lies nearly a mile off the town, and has from 9 to 10 fathoms water. The total revenue of the harbour in 1849, was 3350. The ex ports are trifling compared to the imports ; the latter of which consists chiefly of flax, from the Baltic and other places ; pot ashes, vitriol, and manganese, for the bleaching-works ; and ARBUS 192 ARCHANGEL coals from Newcastle and Frith of Forth. The number and tonnage of vessels that entered the port in the year ending December 1847, was 726, tonn. 42,574; cleared 241, tonn. 15,920. The town owes its rise, if not its origin, to an important monastic institution planted there in 1178 by William the Lion, who was subsequently interred within its precincts. It is now in ruins, having been destroyed at the Reformation ; but some imposing and interesting fragments still remain to attest its former grandeur. Arbroath unites with Brechin, Bervie, Forfar, and Montrose, in sending a member to the House of Commons. Here, as at many other places on the E. coast of Scotland, the sea has largely en croached on the land ; many gardens and houses having been carried away by it since the commencement of the present :entury. Pop. in 1841, of par. 8707; of tn. 7218. (Corre spondent in Arbroatli.) ARBUS, a tn., isl. Sardinia, 34 m. N.W. Cagliari. In the vicinity are lead and silver mines, in which most of the inhabitants are employed. Pop. 2000. ARBUTHNOT, a par. Scotland, co. Kincardine ; 9423 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1015. ARC [anc. Coenus]. 1 , A river, France, which rises in lat. 43 29 N. ; Ion. 5 40 E., on the confines of deps. Var and Bouches-du-Klione. After a W. course of 35 m., passing not far from Aix, it falls into the Lake of Berre, near the town of this name. The ruins of a Roman aqueduct, from the Arc to the town of Astramela, still exist at a place called Cap d CEil. 2, A river, Sardinian States, Savoy, rising at the foot of Mount Iseran, in lat. 45 23 N. ; Ion. 7 6 E. ; thence flowing S.W. to St. Michel ; thence N.N. W. to Aiguebelle, 4 m. below which, after a course of about 70 m., it joins the Isere. ARCACHON, a bay, France, S. W. of dep. Gironde, with a coast line of about 30 m. in extent. At Cape Feret, near the N. entrance of the bay, is a lighthouse 150 ft above the sea level, and visible 14 m. off. The fishing in the bay is good, and furnishes employment to the inhabitants of the numerous villages which lie along its shore. The largest of these is Fete-de-Buch, to which great additional importance has recently been given by the construction of a railway between it and Bordeaux. The harbour of Arcachon is much frequented, particularly by foreign vessels, which there take in cargoes of resin and pitch, which the neighbouring districts furnish in large abundance. ARCADIA, a nomos or prov. Greece, of irregular form, in the middle of the Morea ; bounded, N. by the nomos of Attica and part of Argolis, E. by Argolis and the Gulf of Nauplia, S. by Laconia, and W. by Messinia and Attica; lat. 37 14 N.; Ion. 21 42 E. (R.) It is divided into the epar chies or dioceses, named, respectively, Gortynia, Mantinea, and Kynuria ; and is mountainous, intersected by narrow valleys, which are frequently flooded so as to form small lakes and unwholesome marshes. Much of the province is a table-land, which, in March, is frequently covered with snow. Arcadia is well watered, and produces in abundance, oak, pine, and chest nut trees, and yields excellent pasture for the numerous flocks, the tending of which forms the chief occupation of the inhabit ants now as in ancient times. Its capital is Tripolitza. ARCADIA is also the name of a division of Ancient Greece, of somewhat more circumscribed limits than the modern nomos. ARCADIA (GULF OF), Greece, Morea, W. coast. It is shallow and open, has Cape Katacolo on the N., and Cape Konello on the S., distant from each other 35 m. ARCANGELO (SAN). 1, A tn. Naples, prov. Basilicata, 10m. W. Tursi, having two churches, a monastery, and 3800 inhabitants. 2, A vil. Papal States, delegation Forli, 7 m. W. by N. Kimini, the birthplace of Clement XIV. ARCAS. 1, A group of small islets or rocks in the Gulf of Mexico ; lat. 20 12 30" N. ; Ion. 91 59 15" W. (K.) ; about 100 m. W. the peninsula of Yucatan. 2, A small isl. at the mouth of the Rio Grande, Senegambia, W. Africa ; lat. 1 1 40 N. ; Ion. 15 38 W. ; and nearly in the centre of the river, about 5 or 6 m. distant from either shore. ARCE, a small tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, dist. of, and llm. S.S.W. from Sora, cap. can., on a high bill. It has a collegiate and two other churches. Pop. 4340. ARCHAIS GEL, or AKKHANGHELSK. a gov. Russia in Europe, extending from the Ural Mountains on the E. to Fin land on the W., comprising Russian Lapland, a distance of about 920 m., and from Vologda and Olonetz on the S to the Arctic Ocean, about 400 m. It is thus, including the White Sea, which occupies a large space nearly in its centre, about 400 in. longer than Great Britain, and more than twice its width, except where the latter is broadest. It comprises, besides, the large island of Nova Zcmbla, G50 m. long, by 150 in. wide, and several others in the Arctic Sea. Its most E. limit is about Ion. 66 E., and its most W. 29 54 E.; its most S. point is in lat. 61 10 N., and its most N. the extreme point of Nova Zembla, in lat. 76 N. The entire province is early one continuous flat, and nearly, also, an unvaried scene of desolation and sterility, especially in the N. parts, where the ground remains frozen for nine months in the year. Nor are the S. portions much more inviting. Here meagre pas tures, marshes, swamps, and extensive forests, occupy nearly all the surface, leaving but little for cultivation. Almost the only crops raised are hemp, flax, and some rye, neither the climate nor soil admitting of the cultivation of oats or wheat. The climate is excessively cold in winter, and oppres sively hot in summer, with sudden transitions from the two extremes. The small quantity of grain produced being in adequate to the support of the inhabitants, they are compelled to mix their meal with moss, scrapings of the bark of the pine, and grated roots, and of this compound to make their bread. In the N. parts they cannot command even this mis erable substitute for the staff of life, but must be content with dried fish. On some parts of the banks of the Dwina, where the pasture is a little more luxuriant than in most other places, some cattle are reared, and their calves sent to St. Petersburg, where this particular kind of veal is much esteemed. The whole live stock of the country has been estimated at 35,000 horse, 90,000 horned cattle, 100,000 sheep, and 450,000 rein-deer the domestic animal of these regions. The timber of the forests is valuable, and forms the principal wealth of the government. Game abounds, and the lakes and rivers arc well stocked with fish. Gold is found in this country, particularly in the district of Kola ; and in those of Kemi and Pinega, naphtha and saline springs occur, the latter producing annually about 2714 tons of salt. Amber and the pearl oyster are met with on the shores. The indus trial occupations of the thin and widely-scattered population, comprise the weaving of coarse linen, manufacturing cordage, fishing, hunting, shipbuilding, preparing tar, charcoal, and potash, making mats, tanning leather, cutting wood, and float ing it down to Archangel. The government is partitioned into eight districts : Archangel, Kemi, Kholmogory, Kola, Mezin, Onega, Pinega, and Scheakoursk. The means of land com munication in all parts of the territory are very imperfect ; but a great government road was, in 1839-40, constructed along the borders of the White Sea, through Kemi to Tornea, which has since been prolonged to the frontiers of Norway. Pop. in 1846, 253,000, all Russians, with exception of about 7000 Samoiedes, 6000 Syriaenese, and about 1 700 or 2000 Laplanders. ARCHANGEL, a seaport tn. Russia in Europe, cap. of the above government, r. bank, Dwina, 20 m. from its em bouchure in the Bay of Archangel, and 670 m. N.E. St. Peters burg ; lat. (Trinity church) 64 32 1" N. ; Ion. 40 33 5" E. (K.) It stands on a low flat, and extends about 2 m. along the river. It is ill built, and consists of two principal and very irregular streets, connected by narrow lanes and paved with wood. The houses are mostly of wood, and two stories in height ; those of the wealthier classes being handsomely and comfortably furnished. The most remarkable buildings in the town are the great bazaar or mart, surrounded by high walls, and the marine hospital. The former is very extensive and wholly of stone. There arc 11 churches in the town, 10 Greek and one Protestant, an ecclesiastical seminary with nine professors, a gymnasium, and schools for navigation and en gineering. In and near the town there are a sugar refinery, the produce of which is sent mostly to the interior, a royal dockyard, some shipyards for building merchant-ships and coasting vessels, rope-walks, &c. There are, generally, two or three men-of-war ships on the stocks here, and a body of 5000 or 6000 seamen of the imperial navy stationed in the town and neighbourhood. The harbour is at the island of Sollenbole about 1 m. from the town. The river below the town branches out in several streams, forming islands be tween. At its mouth there is a bar, with from 12 to 14 ft. water on it, so that vessels drawing more than that depth, ARCHANGEL (BAY OF) 193 ARCHIPELAGO must be partially loaded outside from lighters. The Dwina is here about 5 m. broad, and is navigable by small craft for about 300 m. above Archangel. The produce shipped at the port is brought down the river and its branches, chiefly from the government of Vologda, being floated sometimes for great distances on rafts, or in boats which are afterwards broken up. The trade of Archangel extends as far as Siberia, and along the coasts of the White Sea, E. and W., but is greatly dependent on the demand from the more southerly parts of Europe, and especially from England, for corn ; accordingly, in the dear years of 1840-7, the quantities shipped were very great, amounting, in the latter, to 33,300 qrs. wheat, 155,258 qrs. rye, 10,430 qrs. barley, and 198,170 qrs. oats. The other exports consist principally of linseed, flax, tow, tallow, train- oil, mats, deals, battens and ends, pitch and tar. The imports chiefly of articles for domestic use, such as coffee, spices, salt, woollens, hardware, &c. A considerable quantity of sugar also is imported, but mostly for the refinery. There being no factories, materials used in manufactures are not required, nor is there a population to consume foreign articles, which are looked upon as luxuries. The number of vessels cleared in 1846, was 634, of which 308 were British ; the value of their cargoes amounted to 1,063,700. The coasting traders bring fish, furs, some salt and other commodities from Norway, which are afterwards sent to various inland towns. The trade of Archangel must always labour under a serious re- strictiou from its high N. latitude, and the consequent severity of its climate, the navigation being interrupted by the freez ing of the Dwina for about six months in the year. This is one of the oldest ports in Russia, having been founded in 1584, and was long the only one. It is the seat of an arch bishop, and the residence both of a civil and military gover nor. Pop. (1849), 13,129. ARCHANGEL (BAY OF), Russia, opens to the White Sea, having Cape Keretzkoi on the N.E., and Cape Onega on the S.W., distant from each other 85 m., which is the width of the bay at its entrance ; it penetrates inland about 05 ni. The centre is in lat. 65 N. ; Ion. 39 10 E. ARCHANGEL (NEW). See SITKA. ARCHENA, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 13 m. N.W. from Murcia, on a plain, 1. bank, Segura. It is tolerably well built; has a square, a church, townhall, prison, cemetery, and a curious old palace of the Corbera family. The place, however, is chiefly celebrated for its mineral baths, whose waters are impregnated with hydrochlorate of soda, magnesia, and some other substances, and charged with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. Pop. about 2000. ARCHI, a tn. Naples, prov. Abruzz.o Citra, dist. of, and 17 m. W. from Vasto. Pop. 2400. ARCHIDONA, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 34 m. N. from Malaga, built on the S. slope of a lofty and rugged mountain, 10 m. W.N.W T . Loga. The principal streets, running E. and W., are level and commodious, but the lanes, which cut them at right angles, are narrow and steep, and VOD. [. during wet weather the water from the hills above rushes through them like a torrent, cutting up the paving, and leaving large furrows. The houses are good ; and there are several churches, a medical college, church seminary, two primary schools, a large hospital, prison, and the remains of an ancient fort. In the neighbourhood are rich orchards, giving occu pation to many of the inhabitants ; who are also employed in weaving, expressing oil, and curing bacon, which they export in large quantities. Pop. 7010. (Madoz.) ARC1I1DONA, a small tn. Ecuador, 124 m. S.E. Quito; lat. 25 S.; Ion. 77 10 W.; on an affluent of the Napo. The houses are constructed of wood, and thatched. It was nearly destroyed in 1744 by an eruption of the volcano of Cotopaxi, which is distant W. about 100 m. ARCHIPELAGO, a name which, although neither its origin nor precise signification have been ascertained, is now generally understood to mean a sea interspersed with numerous islands or islets ; but formerly applied, more especially, to the islands scattered over the tract of sea (Grecian Archipelago) lying between Greece and Asia Minor, called by the Greeks and Romans the^Egean Sea (which see}. The other principal groups of islands to which the term is now applied, are, 1, The Aleutian Archipelago (see ALEUTIAN ISLANDS) ; 2, The Chagos Archipelago (see CHAGOS ISLANDS) ; 3, Low or Dangerous Archipelago, a cluster of islets, chiefly coral, in the S. Pacific Ocean, E. of the Society Islands, between lat. 14 and 20 S., and Ion. 1 30 and 145 W. ; 4, Corcan Archipelago (see COREAN ISLANDS) ; 5, Great Cyclades Archipelago (see NEW HEBRIDES) ; 6, Laccadive Archipelago (see LACCADIVE ISLANDS) ; 7, Louis- iade Archipelago (see LOUISIADE ISLANDS) ; 8, Caribbean Archipelago (see WEST INDIES) ; 9, Maldivc Archipelago (see MALDIVE ISLANDS) ; 10, Queen Adelaide s Archipelago (see ADELAIDE [QUEEN] ISLANDS); 11, Archipelago de la Re cherche, a scattered and intricate labyrinth of reefs and islands on the S. coast of W. Australia, between Doubtful Island Bay and Cape Pasley, and between lat. 33 45 and 34 S. ; they are all barren, and the largest only about 4 m. in length; 12, Solomon Archipelago (see SOLOMON ISLANDS); 13, Sooloo Archipelago (see SOOLOO ISLANDS) ; 14, Eastern, Indian, Malay, or Asiatic Archipelago (see article below, namely, AUCHIFELAGO EASTERN). ARCHIPELAGO (EASTERN, INDIAN, MALAY, or ASIA TIC), the various names given to the extensive system of islands in the Pacific Ocean, lying between lat. 11 S. and 19 N., and Ion. 95 and 135 E.; or between Australia S. and the coast of China N., New Guinea E. and Sumatra, including that island, W. It also includes a portion of the Malay Peninsula (which see}. The whole archipelago being situated within the tropics, the equinoctial line running nearly through its centre, there is necessarily a general uniformity in climate, in animal and vegetable productions, and in the character of the different races of inhabitants. The islands vary much in external aspect ; some being low, and sloping gradually to the water, while others are mountainous, and rise abruptly from un fathomable depths. Many of the smaller coral islands, it has j been conjectured, have been reared on the summits of sub merged volcanoes. The grandeur and beauty of the scenery of this great group of islands, says Captain Blackwood, can hardly be surpassed ; while the richness of its productions in the animal and mineral kingdoms is great, and, in the veget able kingdom unequalled in beauty, rarity, and value to man. To this description it may be added, that the seas in this fa voured region are singularly transparent, and generally smooth and placid. A prevailing feature of the entire system is the indication of volcanic origin; in some instances apparently recent, while in others lofty peaks are in active combustion. The intensity of the volcanic force in. this region is also re markable. The noise of the explosions of a volcano in the island of Sumbawa, in 1815, was heard at the distance of 970 m. ; while the ashes it emitted were carried to a distance of 1 100 m., for 300 of which the darkness during the day was as deep as midnight. The minerals include gold, silver, tin, iron, copper, sulphur, and diamonds, the last, however, being confined to Borneo. Most of the islands are eminently beauti ful, their soils fertile, and their vegetation of the most luxu riant kind, displaying all the bright colouring of the tropics, particularly yellow and red ; while many of them are covered with deep forests of stupendous trees. The most rare and valued spices, and the most exquisite fruits, are amongst the 25 ARCIIUDI 194 ARCOT productions of this favoured region. Tlie latter include ba nanas, oranges, lemons, shaddocks, pomegranates, pine apples, guava, tamarind, mango, &c., besides two or three species of delicious fruits peculiar to the archipelago; the former, the clove, nutmeg, black pepper, ginger, cassia, &c. The cereals chiefly cultivated are rice and maize ; the latter, how ever, bearing but a small proportion comparatively to the first, which forms the staple article of food. A great variety of plants with nutritive roots arc also cultivated, including the sweet potato and yam. The latter has been grown in the islands from time immemorial, but is not held in much esteem by the natives, who greatly prefer the sweet potato. The cocoa-nut tree abounds, and is carefully tended by the natives ; chiefly for the sake of the oil which they extract from it, and which they use largely in their cookery. The pistachio and several other oil-yielding plants are also extensively cultivated. The sugar-cane, cotton, tobacco, capsicums, onions, and cucum bers are likewise common articles of culture. The sago-palm abounds. The gums, of natural production, most abundant, are benzoin, catechu, camphor, and olibanum. The principal branches of manufacture practised by the islanders are weav ing cotton and silk fabrics, which is entirely conducted by females ; cloth-dyeing and painting ; working gold, silver, iron, and other metals; joinery, boatbuilding, and making salt, salt petre, and gunpowder. The inhabitants consist of two distinct aboriginal races, Malay and Papuan ; the one brown-cornplexioned, with lank hair ; the other black or sooty coloured, with woolly hair. Further particulars respecting these races and their offshoots, will be found in the articles BORNEO, JAVA, and PAPUA. The principal islands in the archipelago are Sumatra, Borneo, Java, Celebes, the Moluccas, Luzon, Mindanao, the Sooloos, Timor, Flores, New Guinea, Palawan, Banca, Lombok, &c. (all of which see under their respective names.} AKCHUDI, or ARKUDI, one of the smallest of the Ionian Islands, 4 m. N.N.E. the most N. point of Ithaca; lat. 38 37 N. ; Ion. 20 42 E. ; 2 m. in length, from N. to S. ARCIDOSSO, a tn. and com. Italy, in Tuscany, prov. Grosseta, 8 in. W. by N. Kadicofani. It has a square, three churches, and a palace of the Counts of Aldobrandeschi. The commune is well watered ; yields grain, grapes, and olives, and good pasture. Pop. 4999. (Dizio. Univ. Italia.) ARC1S-SUR-AUBE [anc. Artiaca], a tn. France, dep. Aube (Champagne), 1. bank, Aube, 17 in. N. Troyes. It was originally built of wood, but two conflagrations, in 1720 and 1727, having laid the greater part of it in ashes, it was rebuilt in a more substantial form, and is now a tolerably handsome town, with wide streets, well laid out. From its central posi tion it seems well fitted for trade ; and is the natural entrepot, on the one hand, for the grain of the surrounding districts, the timber of Upper Aube and the forest of Orient, the minerals of the Vosges, and the exports from Switzerland, for all of which it has a navigable outlet by the Aube and the Seine as far as Paris; while, on the other hand, the same channel enables it to bring back all the commodities which these ex porting districts import in return. The manufactures of Arc-is are not of much importance. The chief of them are cotton thread, which employs seven mills, and hosiery, which em ploys 2000 stocking-looms. During the campaign of 1814, Arcis was the theatre of a fierce struggle between Napoleon and the allies, when a third of it was laid in ruins. G. Danton, the triumvir of the first revolution, was born at Arcis. Pop. 2665. ARCO, or ARCH, a small tn. Austria, in Tyrol, in a beauti ful valley, on the Satca, 7 m. N.W. Koveredo, and 3 m. N. Lake Guarda. It has a richly ornamented parish church; and on a height immediately behind stands the old palace of the Earls of Arco, built in 1 175. The district around is healthy, and one of the finest in the Tyrol. The inhabitants, about 2000, are chiefly engaged in spinning silk, extracting olive oil, and quarrying marble in the vicinity. ARCOLE, a vil. Austrian Lombardy, 15 m. S.E. Verona, 1. bank, Alpone ; celebrated for the battles of Nov. 15, 1C, and 17, 1790, fought between the French, under Bonaparte, and the Austrians, in which the latter were defeated with great slaughter. Pop. 900. AKCONA. See ARKONA. ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA [anc. Arci-colonia], a city, Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 30 m. E. by N. from Cadiz, r. bank, Guadalete, which is here crossed by a stone bridge. Tho sandstone rock on which the town, in form of a bow, is placed, rises 570 ft. above the level of the river, by which it is washed on three sides. The houses are mean-looking ; the streets paved, but generally steep and narrow ; and the ancient walls and defences are in a ruinous state. On the highest part of the rock stands the castle of the Dukes of Arcos, almost for saken, and partly in ruins. The fine Gothic facade of one of the two parish churches occupies one side of Constitution Place or Square ; on other two sides are the theatre and the chapter-houses medieval buildings ; and the fourth side, which is only enclosed by an iron railing, overlooks the perpendicular S. side of the rock, and affords a fine view of the richly culti vated valley of the Guadalete, and of the hill country of Me- dina-Sidonia. There are, besides, in Arcos, a townhall, prison, abattoir, granary, two general hospitals, a poorhouse and foundling hospital, a patriotic society (de amirjos del pais), several primary schools, and, outside the town, two badly-kept cemeteries. The principal manufacture carried on is that of leather, esteemed the best made in Andalusia ; but there arc also manufactures of thread, sombreros, and cordage of agave, of esparto, and of hair. The vicinity is rich in wheat, barley, grapes, olives, legumes, and fruits of all kinds ; a few sheep are reared, and the bulls and horses are famed for their vigour and their majestic appearance. Pop. 11,272. (Madoz ; Will- komm s Spanien.) ARCOS DE VAL DE VEZ, a tn. Portugal, prov. Minho, dist. Ponte do Lima, in a hilly but fertile territory on the Vez, 19 m. N. Braga. It has a monastery, two churches, and a poorhouse. Pop. 1 640. Several other small places and parishes in Portugal have the name Arcos. ARCOT, a dist., S. Ilindoostan, in the Carnatie, presidency Madras, consisting of two smaller divisions, called N. and S. Arcot, respectively, comprehending an area of 12,700 sq. m. The N. division is bounded, N. by Cuddapah and Nellore, E. by Chingleput and the Bay of Bengal, S. by S. Arcot, and W. by the Balaghaut of Cuddapah. The S. division is bounded, N. by N. Arcot, E. by Chingleput and the Bay of Bengal, S. by Tanjore and Trichinopoly, and W. by Salem and the Bal aghaut Carnatie. The surface of the country in the N. parts is mountainous, but in the S. and E., near the sea, it is more level, and better adapted for cultivation. The lands throughout both districts are for the most part held by small proprietary cultivators, either in severally, or in joint village commu nities. Irrigation is effected by means of artificial water courses, wells, and tanks. The cotton manufactures of these districts have been nearly annihilated by British competition, but a little still continues to be done at Pullicat, a place once so famous for its cotton stuffs, as to give name to a particular and well-known description of muslin. The principal trading ports are Cuddalore, Pondicherry, and Portonovo. Arcot was ceded, in 1801, to the East India Company by Azim ul Omrah, nabob of the Carnatie, and has since been greatly improved in every respect. Pop. of both districts (1851) 1,485,873. ARCOT, or AKUCATI, a city, S. Ilindoostan, Mahometan cap. of the Carnatie, r. bank, Palaur, 70m. W. by S.Madras; lat. (fort) 12 54 14" N. ; Ion. 79 22 23" E. (L.) It was first established as capital of the Carnatie in 1716. In 1749, it was taken by Chunda Saheb, who favoured the French in terests, and, in 1751, a few companies of British and sepoys, under Clive, took possession of the place, which had been evacuated by the natives, and for 50 days successfully de fended it against a much superior force. It afterwards changed hands more than once, and ultimately, in 1801, along with the whole district, was ceded to the East India Company. The town, which is inhabited chiefly by Mahometans, is of modern erection, enclosed by walls, and contains a few buildings worthy of notice. The palace of the nabob is a heap of ruins, with the exception of the principal gateway, which is still entire. The Jumma Musjed is a handsome mosque, with seven arches in front, and two rather elegant minarets. There are several other religious edifices of tolerable archi tecture, and numerous tombs, of which that of Saadtit Oolla alone is remarkable. The fort of Arcot was an extensive structure, but the greater part of it has been demolished, and the space it occupied is covered with scattered ruins, and patches of raghy and the castor-oil plant. On the side next the river, whose channel, though half a mile wide, is, during ARCTIC HIGHLANDS 195 ARCY-SUR-CURE the hot season nearly dry, the ramparts are kept in good | repair, and form the only defence of the town against the j periodical inundations. Pop., tu. and its dist. (1851), 53,474. I ARCTIC HIGHLANDS, a country situated in the N.E. part of Baffin s Bay, on the W. coast of Greenland, between lat 76 and 77 40 N., and Ion. 62 20 and 74 20 W., discovered by Captain Ross in 1818, who gave it the name it now bears. The coast trends S.E. and N.W., extending 110 m. On the N. and E., hills are seen rising to the height of upwards of 1000 ft., covered with ice, and separated by ravines filled with snow. The coast also is ice-bound, and it is only about the bases of the rocks, chiefly granite and gneiss, close by the sea, that a stunted and scanty vegetation is to be seen. In the interior nothing is found growing but moss and lichens, a thin wiry sort of grass, and furze. The ani mals are hares, foxes, white bears, and rein-deer. The shores and neighbouring seas are frequented by seals, sea-horses, and whales. The inhabitants are Esquimaux, and have a close resemblance to the Greenlanders, but have rather larger faces. They are clothed in the same way, with sealskins, have the same manners and customs, and speak a dialect of the same language. They are a gentle and inoffensive people, and so simple and ignorant, that, when first visited by Captain Ross, they believed themselves to be the only human beings in the world, and that, beyond their own country, there was nothing but ice. Their sledges are drawn by dogs, whose flesh serves them for food in winter, when the ice prevents them obtaining the marine animals, aquatic fowls, and other produce of the sea, on which they subsist during the summer. They construct sledges, but have no canoes, and their knives consist chiefly of pieces of sharpened ironstone. ARCTIC OCEAN, in its widest sense, is that portion of the N. Sea which extends from the arctic circle (lat 66 30 N.) to the N. pole, but more restrictedly from about the 70th degree of N. lat. Assuming the former limit, the Arctic Ocean is found entering deeply, in the form of gulfs, bays, &c., into the N. parts of the continents of Europe, Asia, and America. The principal of these indentations are the White Sea, in Europe ; Sea of Kara, Gulfs of Obe and Yenisei, in Siberia ; and Baffin s Bay, in N. America. It is united to the Pacific by Behring s Strait, and to the Atlantic by a wide sea, extend ing from Greenland on the W. to Norway and Lapland on the E. This portion of the Arctic Ocean contains one of the largest archipelagos on the globe. The middle of it is occu pied by Greenland, and on the E. is the extensive group of islands known under the name of Spitzbergen, the small island of Jan Mayen, and Iceland. West of Greenland, and divided from it by Davis s Strait and Baffin s Bay, there are a considerable number of islands of great size, with which we are yet but imperfectly acquainted. The regions embraced by the more restricted limits of the Arctic Ocean, namely, from lat. 70 N., are the most dreary and dismal on the face of the globe. Their shores are covered with eternal snows, and the entire surface of their seas with large fields and huge masses of floating ice, in perpetual motion, and whose constant and tre mendous collisions are attended with the most appalling sounds. Dense fogs, violent storms, and endless nights, add to the horrors of the scene. In the region of Spitzbergen, the sun is not seen for several months in the year, and the thermometer rarely rises above 45 Fall. ; while there is but one month in the year July, in which snow does not fall. The only, or at least the greatest degree of light, the inhabit ants enjoy during their long winters, or from the latter end of September to the beginning of May, is that which proceeds from the snow-blink, the aurora, the moon, and the stars. The Arctic Ocean freezes even in summer ; and during the eight winter months a continuous body of ice extends in every direction from the pole, filling the area of a circle of between 3000 and 4000 m. in diameter. Some of the masses of ice that line the shores of this ocean, extend many miles in length, and present sea-fronts of 200 ft. in height ; while fields of ice, 20 or 30 m. in diameter, and from 10 to 40 ft. in thick ness, are frequent, and sometimes extend over 100 m., so closely packed together that no opening is left between them. They are also often found to have a violent rotatory motion, by which they are dashed against one another with tremendous force. The icebergs, of which vast numbers are seen floating about, vary from a few yards to miles in circumference, and rise to many hundreds of feet in height. The ice in these regie. is is very transparent and compact, and remarkable for the variety and beauty of its tints, the most prevailing of which are blue, green, and orange. The water of the Arctic Ocean is extremely pure, shells being distinctly visible at a depth of 80 fathoms; it also presents rapid transitions of colour, chiefly from ultramarine to olive green, the latter produced by the presence of myriads of marine animals. It exhibits equally sudden changes from purity to opacity. The pressure of its water, at a depth of l m., was found to be 280 J Ibs. on a square inch of surface. The history of adventure in the Arctic seas presents a striking disproportion between effort and achievement. All that human daring can do has been done to open up the mys teries of these dreary regions, but hitherto without any good practical result. The first attempt to explore the polar seas was made in 1553, by Willoughby and Chancellor, who were sent out with instructions to ascertain if there was a N.E. passage, or if they could reach China by passing to the N. of Europe and Asia. Willoughby reached Nova Zeinbla, but he and all his crew were frozen to death. Chancellor en tered the White Sea, and thus opened a communication with Russia. Capt. Cook reached Icy Cape, from the Pacific, in 1778. In 1607, Capt. Hudson was sent out to attempt to discover the N. W. passage, and reached the latitude of 81, but \vas under the necessity of putting back on account of ice. In 1773, this experiment was again tried by an expedition under the command of Capt. Pliipps, who advanced about a.s far as Capt. Hudson had previously done; and a similar attempt was made in 1818, which proved equally unfortunate, under Capt. Buchan. In 1827, Capt. Parry was sen-t out to reach the Pole in boats and sledges over the ice, and he attained about 82 40 , the highest latitude yet reached in these seas, and was obliged to return by the motion of the fields of ice to the south. In 1818, Capt. Ross attempted a N.W. passage, and passed through Lancaster Sound, lu 1819. Capt. Parry reached Ion. 110 W. ; and in 1821-23, examined the coast to the N. of Hudson s Bay; in 1824, he reached Prince Regent s Inlet. In 1826, Capt. Franklin was sent overland to explore the N. coast of America, to the W. of Mackenzie River; and at the same time Capt. Beechy was despatclied to meet him in Behring s Strait. The two expe ditions approached each other to within a distance of 146 m., but returned without meeting. In 1829-33, Capt. Ross sailed up Prince Regent s Inlet. In 1845 Sir John Frank lin sailed with the Erebus and Terror in search of the long- desiderated N.W.passage. No tidings of this expedition having reached this country in 1848, numerous searching expeditions were sent out at intervals up till 1853, under Sir John Rich ardson, Dr. Rae, Sir James Ross, Sir John Ross, Capts, Kellet, Austin, Peiiny, Maelure, Collinson, Sir E. Belcher, Dr. Kane, &e., the last of which returned in the close of 1 855, with out having discovered any traces of the missing vessels. Dr. Rae, however, in the spring of 1 854, ascertained that, in 1 850, a party of white men proved, by relics obtained from the Esqui maux, to have belonged to Sir J. Franklin s expedition, and most probably including Sir John himself had died of starva tion near Point Ogle, at the mouth of the Great Fish River. Though these expeditions were thus fruitless in the main pur pose for which they were sent out, they have added largely to our knowledge of the inhospitable regions which they visited ; and Capt. Maelure, who entered the Arctic Ocean by Behring s Strait, returned to this country, in 1854, by Lancaster Sound, having thus solved the geographical pro blem of the existence of a, N.W. passage. Among the nu merous islands of the Arctic Ocean, there are doubtless several water-ways connecting the Atlantic and the Pacific oceans, but navigation in all of them being impeded by ice, none of them is ever likely to become of commercial im portance. ARCUETL [anc. A r-Jteilum, Arcolium], a vil. France, dep. Seine, about 4 m. S. Paris, on the Bierre, from which a mag nificent aqueduct, built by Mary de Medicis, in 1 624, conveys water to supply the fountains of Paris. Arcueil is one of the greatest holiday resorts of the Parisians. It has a cotton-mill, a print-work for calicoes, and numerous bleachfields. P. 1910. ARCY-suii-cURE, a vil. France, dep. Yonne (Burgundy), 17 m. S.S.E. Auxerre, and famous for its grottoes. These are found in a limestone rock ; consist of a series of caverns opening into each other, and sometimes even standing iu ARD (Locn) 19G ARDECIIE succession over each other, and abounding with columns and other curious forms of stalactite. The numerous concre tions in course of formation are constantly diminishing the extent of the grottoes, and it has been calculated that two cen turies will suffice to choke them up, and convert them into fine quarries of alabaster. Pop. 1495. ARD (Locn), a beautiful lake, Scotland, co. Perth. It consists properly of two sheets of water, called, respectively, Upper and Lower Loch Ard. The former is about 3 m. long, and three quarters of a mile broad ; the latter somewhat less than 1 m. in length, and about a quarter of a mile in width. Its peculiar characteristics are peacefulncss and seclusion. The E. extremity of the lake is about a quarter of a mile W. Aberfoil. ARDABIL. See. AUDEBEET,. ARDAGII, an ancient and decayed vil. and par. Ireland, co. Longford, 2 m. S.S.W. Edgeworthstown, and 6|m. S.E. Longford. It was at one time a place of considerable import ance, but is now a mere hamlet. There is here a church, a plain commodious building, with a square tower ; and close by are the ruins of the old cathedral, which seems to have been a small structure, rudely built of fragments of rock. The place derives its name from its elevated situation, and its origin has been ascribed to the fifth century, when its church was founded. Pop. of vil. 165; of entire par. 4524. Area of par. 11,417 ac. AKDAGH is the name of another village, of other four parishes, and of a barony, in Ireland : 1, A par. barony of Imokilly, co. Cork ; area, 7880 ac. Pop. 2552. 2, A par., co. Limerick, partly in the barony of Glenquin, and partly in that of Shanid; area, 9030 ac. Pop. 2223. In this par. is the vil. above alluded to; it consists of one long irre gular street, in a ruinous condition. Three fairs, however, are held in it annually, in May, August, and November, chiefly for cattle, pigs, and pedlary. 3, A par., co. Mayo, barony Tirawley ; area, 5494 ac. Pop. 2G21. 4, A par., co. Meath, partly in the barony of Morgallion, and partly in that of Slane Lower; area, 3669 ac. Pop. 2518. 5, A barony, co. Longford; area, 40,223 ac. Pop. 19,917. ARDALES, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 31 in. N.W. Malaga, on an elevated plain. It is tolerably well built, but has uneven and badly-paved streets. It has a church, two schools, a townhall, and a prison. Pop. 2900. ARDAMINE a par. Ireland, co. Wexford; 4215 ac. ; contains a large and ancient tumulus, called the Moat of Ardeminc. Pop. 1705. ARDATOW, two towns, Russia in Europe: 1, A tn., cap. dist. of same name, on the Lemet, gov. of, and 80 m. S.W. Nijnei-Novgorod. It has a church and courthouses. The inhabitants, about 600, are mostly labourers, many being employed in the neighbouring iron-works. 2, A tn., cap. dist. of same name, on the Alatyr, gov. of, and 98 m. N.W. Simbirsk. It has two churches. Pop. about 1400. ARDBRACCAN, a vil. and par. Ireland, co. Meath, 2 J m. W. Navan, and formerly a bishop s see. It has a very fine parish church and Episcopal palace, with two parochial schools. Pop. in 1841, 4596, partly employed in agriculture, partly in linen and cotton-weaving. ABDCANDBIE8, or AUDCANDRISK, a par. Ireland, co. Wexford; 1227 ac. Pop. 286. ARDCANNY, a par. Ireland, co. Limerick; 3100 ac. Pop. 1283. ARDCARXE, a par. Ireland, co. Roscommon, shores of Lough Key ; 19,963 ac. ; abounds in limestone and freestone. Pop. 8304 ARDCATH, a par. Ireland, co. Meath ; 4380 ac. Pop. 1481. ARDCAVAN, a par. Ireland, co. Wexford; 2458 ac. Pop. 947. ARDCIIATTAN, adist., co. Argylc, Scotland, consisting of the united parishes of Ardchattan and Muckairn, together 30 m. in length, and from 15 to 20 m. in breadth. The sur face is mountainous, and intersected with numerous streams abounding in trout. A great part of it is covered with wood. Game is plentiful, and red deer numerous. The cultivated parts yield abundant crops of oats, barley, and potatoes. Some remains still exist of the ancient priory of Ardchattan, built in the 13th century, where it is said Robert Bruce held a parliament, in which the discussions were conducted in the Gaelic language. Pop. of par. (1841), 14G1. ARDCLARE, a par. Ireland, co. Roscommon ; 8344 ac. Pop. 2555. AKDCLINIS, a par. Ireland, co. Antrim ; 15,092 ac. ; contains much romantic scenery. Pop. 1742. ARUCOLLUM, or AKDCOLME, a par. Ireland, co. Wex ford ; 2232 ac. Pop. 804. ARDCRONEY, a par. Ireland, co. Tippcrary ; 6429 ac. Pop. in 1841, 1571. ARDEBEEL, ARDABIT,, ARDEIIYT,, or ERDEBIL, a tn. Persia, prov. Azerbijan, on the Karasu, 100 m. E. Tabreez, and 40 m. W. the Caspian Sea; lat. 38 14 N.; Ion. 48 21 55" E. (c.) It lies near the S. side of the great plain of Ardebecl, which is about 40 m. long by 40 broad, and 5000 ft. above the sea level ; in great part uncultivated, and sparingly in habited. The town, built from the ruins of a former city, is surrounded by a ruinous mud wall, flanked by towers in a liko state of decay. The houses are mean and small, built of mud or sun-dried bricks, with flat roofs. The fort is a regular square, constructed according to the European system of forti fication. The only objects of interest in the town are the tombs of Sheikh Suffee, Sultan Kyder, and Shah Isinacl, forming a collection of domes and oblong squares, once richly adorned with lacquered tiles. There are no gardens round Ardebcel, the strong N.E. winds from the Caspian being very prejudicial to certain kinds of vegetation, especially fruit-trees. The climate is cold, and not considered healthy ; yet in many localities around, more especially on the banks of the Karasu, abundant crops of rice, wheat, and barley are raised. Eraser gives the pop. at 500 or 600 families ; Todd, who visited the place in 1837, found it in a most ruinous condition, in conse quence of a visitation of the plague, and much reduced in population. (Eraser s Travels on the Shores of the Caspian; D Arcy Todd, Itinerary from Talrecz to Teheran, in Jour. Roy. Gen. Soc., vol. viii.) ARUECIIE, a dep. France, deriving its name from a river which rises within it, and, with exception of a single canton, the very same as the old division of Vivarais in Languedoc. Boundaries, N., departments Loire and Isere ; W., Loire, Haute-Loirc, and Lozere; S., Gard; E., the Rhone, separating it from Drome, Isere, and a small corner in the N.W. of Vaucluse; between lat. 44 14 and 45 22 N.; and Ion. 3 50 and 4 50 E. Greatest length, N. to S., 80 m.; greatest breadth, E. to W., 45 m. Area, 538,988 hectares, nearly equal to 2110 sq. m., or 1,350,000 ac., of which about 330,000 are arable, 110,000 meadow and pasture, 220,000 woodland, 70,000 vineyards, orchards, and garden ground, and about 400,000 swamps and moorland wastes. The whole department is of a mountainous character. Mount Mezenc, in the W., the highest in the department, forms a central point for several mountain-chains, particularly that of the Cevenncs, which send ramifications into the N.W. and S., forming, in the N. the mountains of Coutiercs, in the W. the mountains of Coiron, and in the S. the mountains of Tanargue. In the W. the mountains have usually a nucleus of granite, and are overlaid by huge masses, evidently of volcanic origin. In the E., and along the course of the Rhone, calcareous rocks predominate. Throughout the department numerous volcanoes must have been in active operation at no very remote geo logical period. Several of the craters still exhale mephitic vapours, and the warm springs issue from their sides. Many of these mountains exhibit ranges of basaltic columns, of great magnificence. The most important of the numerous streams are the Ardeche, the Erieux, and the Doux. They have all an E. course, and belong to the basin of the Rhone. The Loire, however, rises in the department, and continues within it for the first 15 m. of its course, but it is only as a moun tain-torrent. Among the mountains various metals have been found; silver (a mine of which gives its name to the town of Argentiere, and was at one time worked), antimony, several mines of lead, and, more valuable than all, iron, which is now extensively wrought in the E. of the depart ment, near La Voulte ; and, in connection with the limestone and valuable coal-field of Ardeche, supplies blast furnaces and forges, which rank as the most important works of the kind in France. The prevalence of basalt makes it the chief building stone of the district; but the calcareous rocks con tain good marble, which is extensively quarried. At one time the whole of the W. district was covered with vast forests. Though now greatly reduced, they are still large, AKDECHE 197 ARDENNES and furnish much timber, chiefly of pine and beech. But the most common, and at the same time the most valuable tree, is the Spanish chestnut, which covers extensive tracts, and yields excellent chestnuts, known in commerce as the chest nuts of Lyons. The annual produce is estimated at 400,000 bushels, of which one half are consumed within the depart ment as food, and the other half cither employed there in feeding vast numbers of swine, or exported. The hazel and walnut also cover considerable tracts, and furnish a good deal of oil. In the S. both the fig and the olive thrive ; and the whole department abounds with mulberry trees, which supply food for silkworms, the rearing of which is carried on to a great extent, and ought, perhaps, to be regarded as the staple of the district. The vineyards are numerous, and a large quantity of wine is produced ; some of it, particularly that of Limony, St. Joseph, Comas, and St. Peray, being in great request, and well known over all Europe. Agriculture has its chief seat in the S., in the extensive valley of Ardeche, and in the N. in the valley of Erieux. There all the ordinary grain and pulse crops are abundant. Along the valley of the Rhone are rich pastures, covered with cattle and sheep. Horses, mules, and asses are not numerous, and the breed generally are of an inferior description. Much attention is paid to the rearing of bees. In addition to the different kinds of industry already mentioned, notice seems due to the tile- works of Theil, the ferret-silk of Vans, the figured vests of Montpezat, the worsted covers of Burzet, the blonde silk, glove-leather, and far-famed paper of Annonay. The inhab itants of Ardeche are frugal and industrious, sober, of strict morals, and strongly attached to their homes and families. One of the worst blots on the reign of Louis XIV., is the relentless persecution to which the fine peasantry on the S. frontier of this department, amongst whom Protestantism had taken deep root, were subjected on the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. Ardeche is divided into three arrondissements, which are again subdivided into 31 cantons. Pop. 365,000. (Diet, de la France.} ARDECHE, a river, France, largest stream in the dep. to which it gives its name. Its source is at a place called Cap-d Ardeche, among the mountains of Cevennes. It first flows E., then, turning abruptly S., pursues a winding course to St. Alban, where it receives the Beaume from the N.W., and shortly after from the W. the Chasseaux, the largest of all its tributaries. Now become an important river, it proceeds E.S.E., and, after a course of 45 m., falls into the Rhone rather more than a mile from Pont St. Esprit. It is properly navigable for only 5 m. from its mouth ; but for a much greater length admits of the floating of timber and firewood, which are sent down in large quantities from the forests of St. Remeze. Nothing can exceed the magnificence of the scenery on the Ardeche, in the earlier part of its course. In one part, where a current of lava had flowed down from a neighbouring crater into its bed, it has cut a passage for itself over one side, laying bare majestic columns of basalt, which extend, with few interruptions, for 1 J m. below. In another part it plunges over a precipice, called Kay-Pic, which is almost perpendicular, and is above 100 ft. high. Below this cataract is the bridge of Arc, justly regarded as one of the most remarkable natural curiosities in France. It lies 2 m. S. Vallon, about 11 m. above the confluence of the Ardeche with the Rhone, and consists of a natural arch of grayish limestone, 40 ft. thick, running across the river, and forming a kind of vault 90 ft. high, and 180 ft. wide, through which it passes. Near the bridge are several stalactite caves, which were often resorted to for concealment during the civil wars of France. AIIDEE, a market tn., barony, and par. Ireland, co. Lonth. The TOWN is pleasantly situated on the small river Dee, in a fertile corn district, 36m. N.N.W. Dublin. It consists of one principal street, with several lanes branching off; and has some good houses, with many wretched cabins. It was formerly a walled town, and still has a castle, now used as the courthouse, to which is attached the county jail. In the centre of the town is another old castle, now converted into a dwelling-house. The spacious parish church, still in good condition, was formerly the church of an Augustine monastery. In the town there are likewise a R. catholic chapel, corn-market, two charity schools, a savings -bank, a union workhouse (opened in May 1842), and a constabulary barracks. Malting is extensively tarried on, and a considcr- iblu quantity of corn is sold at the weekly market, held on Tuesday. Pop. of tn. 3679. The BAKONY is about 11 m. n length; breadth 7 m.; area, 53,832 ac. Annual valuation nder the Poor-law Act, 55,796, 13s. Pop. 28,704. Area jf PARISH, 4885 ac. Pop. 6392. There is also a small par. ?alled AKDEE, AKDKEE, or LITTLE AKDUEE, in the co. Kildare. Area, 333 ac. Pop. 205. AKUEKU, AUDEKOO, or AKDEKAN, a tn. Persia, prov. Khorassan, two days journey N.W. Yezd. It has 1000 ouses, a good bazaar, which owes much of its prosperity to the manufactures of the place ; for here are woven the cloth used for the tents of the royal household, and carpets, checked with blue and yellow. A1JDELAN, a prov. Persia, forming the E. portion of Kurdistan ; bounded, N. by Azerbijan, S. by Laristan, W. jy Asiatic Turkey, and E. by Irak; about 207 m. long, N. :o S., by about 130 to 150 m. wide, E. to W. Its capital, is well as of all Kurdistan, is Senna, where resides the Wal- ee or governor, a Kurdish chief, paying tribute to Persia, but in reality almost independent, and possessing the power of life and death over his subjects. The province is divided to two districts, the N. or Ardelan proper, and the S., named Kermanshah from its local capital. Both districts are mostly composed of high lands ; and the climate is so severe, that it s only in June, July, and August, that the flocks can remain n the summer stations. The villages in the narrow valleys ire few and sparingly peopled ; the inhabitants being chiefly nomadic. Little agriculture is carried on, the mainstay being the rearing of sheep, horned cattle, and horses, the last of which are famed for their beauty, speed, and power of enduring fatigue. The woods yield excellent oak and fine gall apples, the latter of which are exported chiefly to India. (Hitter s Asien; Chesney s Euphrates Expedition.} ARDENNES, a frontier dep., N. France, deriving its name from the ancient forest of Ardennes, which traverses the N. division, cap. Mezieres ; bounded, N. and N.E. by Bel gium, E. by dep. Mouse, S. by Marne, and \V. by Aisne ; length about 65 m. N. to S. ; breadth 57 m. E. to W. ; area, 517,385 hectares, or about 1955 sq. in. A ridge of the Fau- ciles mountains, a branch of the Vosges chain, running in a direction from S.E. to N.W., divides the dep. into two parts, the one belonging to the basin of the Meuse, and the other to that of the Seine. The principal rivers are the Aisne and the Meusc, both navigable, and connected by the Canal of Ardennes and the Bar river. The soil is not all equally fer tile. Some of the plains in the S.W. are naked and arid, while the districts in the N. are traversed by mountains covered with wood and heath, the forests occupying more than one-fifth part of the whole area. Of arable land there are 785,550 ac.; meadows, 120,475 ac.; vineyards, 43,810 ac.; orchards, nursery-grounds, and gardens, 24,500 ac. ; heath and barren land, 27,050 ac. In the central valleys, which are extensive and fertile, corn is grown, particularly in the valley of the Aisne, one of the finest corn districts in France. But though the quantity of grain produced is greater than formerly, it is not equal to the consumption of the depart ment. The vine is cultivated only in the S. districts, espe cially around Rethel, Sedan, and Vouziers. The pastures are excellent ; the domestic animals, though strong, generally small ; and the cows give but little milk. The sheep, of which there are large flocks, afford excellent mutton, and yield wool of a fine quality. The department abounds in game ; particularly roebucks, wild boars, hares, and rabbits. The inhabitants are, in general, industrious, intelligent, and enterprising, though somewhat unpolished in their man ners. Mining and manufacturing operations are carried on by them with great activity ; the extensive forests supplying fuel in abundance for forges and factories. The minerals of the department consist of iron, lead, calaminc, and some coal, with marble, freestone, limestone, and slate of excellent qual ity, of which there are extensive quarries at Fumayand other places ; also potter s clay, and sand for the manufacture of glass. Iron-works are numerous, and yield annually upwards of 400 tons of bar, and upwards of 5GO tons of cast iron. Chief manufactures : fine cloth, and other woollen stuffs at Sc dan and Rethel; cutlery, ironware, nails, fire arms, and soap, at Charleville ; leather, glass, and earthenware, at Montherm6 ; with hosiery, hats, serges, copper, brass, and porcelain, at various places. Nail-making is likewise carried on to a ARDENNES 193 ARDOCn consideraljlc extent, employing upwards of COOO persons. Trade is carried on in the agricultural and manufactured pro- duets of the department ; the Meuse, the Aisne, and the Canal of Ardennes furnishing great facilities for intercommunication. The department is divided into five arrondissements, 30 can tons, and 478 communes. Pop. in 1846, 326,823. (Diet, de la France; French Official Table*.} ARDENNES, an extensive tract of hilly land, forming a distinct ramification of the Vosges, and stretching continu ously over a large portion of the N.E. of France and S. W. of Belgium. One branch proceeding N. from the forest of Argonne, reaches the sources of the Meuse, Sambre, and Scheldt, while another branch, still more considerable, com mencing E. among the valleys of the Moselle, Eure, and Ourthe, proceeds W., and is finally lost in the plains of Cham pagne. None of the hills attain a great elevation. The highest, La Barraqne Michel, is 2230 ft., but the average height does not exceed 1540 ft. The prevailing rocks are schistous, and in some places furnish extensive quarries of excellent roofing slates. Limestone occurs very rarely, and only in thin beds. Anciently the whole tract formed one immense forest, and possesses considerable interest both in history and in the drama of Shakspeare, under the name of the Forest of Ardennes. Extensive districts are still under wood, but large portions have been cleared, and are now covered with populous towns and cultivated fields. In general, however, the surface is elevated, cold, and bleak, and the soil, even when it would admit the plough, by no means well adapted for cultivation. It is more favourable for pasture, and rears great numbers of cattle, and a breed of horses, which, though small, are hardy and active, and much used for light cavalry. Among minerals, lead, antimony, and manganese are found, but the only mineral which seems to admit of being extensively worked to advantage is iron. ARDEKRA, a par. Ireland, co. Kilkenny; 777 ac. Pop. in 1841, 300. ARDERSIER, or AKDROSSEK, a par. Scotland, co. Inver ness ; 3465 ac. Pop. 759. ARDESE, a large vil. Venetian Lombardy, prov. of, and 18 m. N.N.E. from Bergamo, and 4 m. N. by W. Clusone ; having a handsome church with a lofty spire, a chapel built in 1607, an hospital, and school. The inhabitants are engaged in working iron and steel, making cheese, dressing wool, and in tillage. Pop. 2118. (Dizio. Univ. Italia.} ARDFERT, a tn. and par., W. coast, Ireland, co. Kerry. The town is 4 m. N.W. Tralee, and was anciently the capital of Kerry, the seat of a university, and a bishopric, and sent two members to the Irish parliament; but now it is a ruinous and insignificant village, its see having long since been united to that of Aghadoe. Near the town are the picturesque ruins of a Franciscan monastery. There are two free schools, and a dispensary in the town. Pop. of tn. in 1841, 655. The PARISH is partly in the barony of Trughanaekmy but chiefly in that of Clanmaurice. Area of both, 10,134 ac. Pop. in 1841, 5334. ARDF1ELD, a par. Ireland, co. Cork ; 2645 ac. Copper ore exists in this parish. Pop. 1475. ARDFINNAN, a par. Ireland, co. Tipperary; 1813 ac. ; contains the ruins of a castle built by King John in 1184. Pop. 1214. ARDGL ASS, a small decayed seaport tn. and par. Ireland, co. Down. The town is 7 m. S.E. Downpatrick, and about 73 m. N.E. Dublin, pleasantly situated on the E. side of the tongue of land which separates the Bay of Killough from that of Ardglass. The town consists of one long street, nearly semicircular, with several smaller streets branching off. A free school, on the foundation of Erasmus Smith, educates about 90 boys and 80 girls. There are also four private f-chools, and a dispensary. Ardglass is inhabited chiefly by fishermen, and possesses a good many fishing-smacks and yawls, besides a few sloops. Several packets also ply from it to the Isle of Man. It is the centre of the stations of the Irish fisheries, on this line of coast, arid where, in consequence, numerous vessels assemble during the fishing season, there being frequently from 300 to 400 in the harbour at one time, from various parts of both England and Ireland. The pier has a lighthouse, and in the harbour there is sufficient depth of water at any time of tide for vessels of 500 tons. On the quay arc capacious stores for corn, in which a considerable trade is carried on. A quay and pier for fishing-boats have been erected at an inner harbour, called Kimmersport. Ard glass was in former times an important and flourishing place, but its commercial privileges, &c., having been transferred to Belfast, its trade rapidly declined. There are here a constab ulary police force and a coast-guard station ; a manorial court is held for claims to the amount of 100; and there are an excellent weekly market and four annual fairs. Area of par. 1137 ac.; pop. 1433. Pop. of tn. 1066. ARD1LLATS, a vil. France, dep. Rhone (Beaujohiis) pleasantly situated on the Ardiere, about 16 m. N.W. Ville- tranche, and possessing a fine paper-mill, which was originally established by the celebrated aeronauts Montgolfier, whose improvements in the manufacture are said to form the foun dation of the still more important processes which have since been introduced. Pop. 1112. ARD1NGLEY, a par. England, co. Sussex ; 4780 ac. ; N.E. Cuckfield. Pop. 742. ARD1NGTON, a par. England, co. Berks; 1310 ac. ; E. Wantage. Pop. 405. ARDIS1I. See ARJISIF. ARDJISII, ARDSISCH, ARGISH, orKui!Ti:A-DE-ARJESCH, a decayed tn. European Turkey, cap. dist. same name, prov. Wallachia, 1. bank, Ardjish, 90 m. N.W. Bucharest, on the road leading through the Eotheiithurm Pass into Hungary. It has six churches, and a large monastery, the church of which is considered the finest in Wallachia ; and the ruins of a strong castle, formerly the residence of the lords or princes of the district. See Aiaisn. ARDKEEN, a par. Ireland, co. Down ; 4801 ac. Pop. 2238. ARDKILL, a par. Ireland, co. Kildare ; 5848 ac. Pop. 1214. ARDLEIGH, a par. England, co. Essex ; 5100 ac. ; N.E. Colchester. Pop. 1605. ARDLEY, a par. England, co. Oxford ; 1440 ac. ; N.W. Bicester. Pop. 168. ARDMAYLE, a par. Ireland, co. Tipperary; 4941 nc. Pop. 1757. ARDMORE, a tn. and par. Ireland, co. Watcrford, on the Irish Channel. The town lies 5 m. E.N.E. Youghal, and 33 m. W.S.W. Watcrford. It has Protestant and II. catholic churches, and was formerly a bishop s see. In the parish churchyard is one of the ancient round towers ; and S.E. the church are the dormitory and well of St. Declan, both of which are held in high veneration. There is a fine beach, and the country around being beautiful, renders Ardmore admirably adapted for sea-bathing. Pop. of par. 8737 ; area, 24,2 15 ac. Pop. of tn. 706. ARDMORE HEAD, a promontory, S. coast, Ireland, co. AVaterford, N.N.E. Youghal harbour; lat. 51 52 N. ; Ion. 7 40 W. ARDMULCHAN, a par. Ireland, co. Meath ; 3583 ac. ; abounds in limestone. Pop. 1038. ARDNAGEE11Y, a par. Ireland, co. Cork; 16,335 ac. Pop. 4798. ARDNAMTJRCIIAN (POINT OF), a cape or headland, Scotland, co. Argyle, the most W. point of the mainland of Britain. A lighthouse has been recently erected on this point, the lantern of which is 180 ft. above the level of the sea. It is a fixed light of the natural appearance, and may be seen, in clear weather, from a distance of 18 or 20 m. It was exhibited, for the first time, 011 the night of Dec. 1, 1849; lat. 56 43 45" N. ; Ion. 6 13 30" W. ARDNAREE, a vil. Ireland, co. Sligo, on the Moy, over which is a stone bridge of 16 arches, which unites Ard- naree with Ballina, of which it forms a suburb (see BALLINA). ARDNURCHER, a par. Ireland, King s co., and co. Wcstmeath; 12,012 ae. ; contains the ruins of several ancient castles. Pop. 3687. ARDOCH, a small vil. Scotland, co. Perth, about 8 m. S.S.W. Crieff, celebrated for the Koman camps in its vicinity, one of which is the most entire of any in Scotland. There arc here vestiges of three distinct Koman camps of different dimen sions, and, apparently, constructed at three different periods, the largest and first supposed to be constructed by Agricola, in his campaign in A.n. 84. Besides these camps, there is, opposite the bridge over Knaig water, a strong fort surrounded by five or six fosses and ramparts, about 500 ft. long by 4; .0 ARDOKE 199 ARENDAL broad. The vicinity of Ardoch, near which stood Lindum, a town of the Dainuii, one of the aboriginal tribes of Britain, was the scene of many conflicts during the Eoman period. The interesting remains above alluded to have been en closed by the proprietor of Ardoch by a high stone wall, to protect them from dilapidation. ARDORE, a tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Ultra I., dist. of, and 7 m. S.W. from Gerace, situated upon a hill, in a fer tile country. It suffered much from an earthquake in 1783, and was rebuilt by Ferdinand IV. Pop. 2959. ARDOYE, a vil. Belgium, prov. W. Flanders, about 12 m. S. Bruges. It gives its name to a rural com., which has an area of 4500 ac. ; a pop. of 7G43 ; and possesses several brew eries and malt-mills, brick and tile-works, and a blcachfield. ARDOYNE, a par. Ireland, cos. Wicklow and Carlow; G577 ac. Pop. 1791. ARDPATR1CK, a par. Ireland, co. Limerick ; 624 ac. Gold ore has been found in this parish ; it contains ruins of an ancient monastery and round tower. Pop. 101. ARDQUIN, a par. Ireland, co. Down ; 3043 ac. Pop. 916. ARDRAII, or AZEM, a tn. Africa, cap. prov. of same name, kingdom of Dahomey , lat. 6 35 N. ; Ion. 3 42 E. ; about 20 m. from the sea-coast, on the shores of a lake. Pop. 10,000. ARDRAHAN, par. Irel. Galway; 17,948 ac. P. 4191. ARDRES [anc. Ardrea], a fortified tn. France, dep. Pas- de-Calais (Picardy), 9 m. S.E. Calais, in a marshy district, at the extremity of the Canal of Ardres, and on the railway from Calais to St. Omer. It was a place of considerable import ance during the early English wars, and the splendid fetes given at the interview which took place here between Henry VIII. and Francis I., are commemorated by the name of Champ clu Drop a" Or [field of the cloth of gold], which the spot still bears. Ardres has some salt-refineries. P. 1129. ARDRISHAIG, a small vil. and seaport, Scotland, co. Argyle, 20 in. S.S.W. Inverary, W. shore of Loch Fyne, at the entrance to the Crinan Canal; with a boat-building yard, and two quays ; inhabitants principally engaged in fish ing. Steamers to Glasgow, &c., daily. Pop. (1851), 600. ARDR1STAN, a par. Irel. Carlow; 1571 ac. P. 598. ARDROSSAN, a seaport and par. Scotland, co. Ayr. The town is 30 m. by railway S.W. Glasgow, and 18 m. N.W. Ayr. The streets are wide and straight, and the houses, mostly of two stories, are neat and well finished. There are also many handsome villas in the vicinity. It is much frequented in the summer season by sea-bathers. The harbour, which is on an extensive scale, was begun by the late Earl of Eglinton, who expended 100,000 on it. It is still incomplete, but is capable of accommodating a large number of vessels. The pier and breakwater, the former 900 yards in length, completely protect the harbour from S. and W. winds, an island, called the Horse Island, protecting it from the N.W. At the extremity of the breakwater there are 26 ft. at spring ebbs, and it shoals gradually to 15 ft., where the quays commence. There are two small red lights, one on each pierhead. A branch line, about 4 m. in length, con nects Ardrossan with the Glasgow and Ayr Railway at Kil- wi nning. Steamers ply regularly between Ardrossan and Glasgow, Ayr, Belfast, and Fleetwood. Pop. of par. 4947 ; area, 11,347 ac. ARDSALLAGII, or ARDSALLA, a par. Ireland, co. Meath: 1739 ac. Pop. 341. ARUSKEAG1I, a par. Ireland, co. Cork; 1929 ac. Pop. 280. ARDSLEY. 1, (We*f), a par. England, co. York, W. Hiding ; 2250 ac. ; N. W. Wakefield. Pop. 1420. 2, (East), a par. adjoining the above. Pop. 900. ARDSTRAW, or ARDSTRATH, a par. Ireland, co. Tyrone, on the Mourne, a branch of the Foyle, S. Lifford, and N.W. Oinagh; area, 45,000 ac. Pop. 17,400. ARDSTRAW BRIDGE is the name of a vil. in this par., on the river Derg, and on the road from Dublin to Londonderry. Pop. in 1841, 134. ARD VAR (Loon), an arm of the sea, Scotland, W. coast, co. Sutherland ; lat. 58 16 N. ; Ion. 5 4 W. It is a small but safe harbour for small vessels. In the proper anchor age, there is water enough for the largest ships to ride, but in the narrow part of the channel leading to it, there are not above 3 ft. at low water, spring tides. AREAS, or SAO MIGUEL DAS AREAS, a small tn. Brazil, prov. S3o Paulo, 150 m. N.E. Santos, and 110 N.W. Rio de Janeiro, on the confines of the prov. of that name, and on the road to the city of Sao Paulo, in a fertile district, with a moist climate. It has a church, townhouse, and prison ; and in its vicinity are cultivated coffee in large quantities, millet, rice, French beans, mandioca, and sugar-canes. The principal com merce of Areas consists in coffee and fowls, which is trans ported on mules to Rio de Janeiro. Pop., tn. and dist. 6000. (Die. Gco. Imp. Brazil.} AREBO, or ARBON, a tn. Benin, W. Africa, on the river Formosa, about 37 in. from its mouth ; lat. 5 58 N. ; Ion. 5 8 E. The English and Dutch factories, formerly exist ing here, have been abandoned. ARECHAVALETA, a tn. Spain, prov. Guipuzcoa, 27 m. N.E. Vittoria, on the high road from Madrid to Bayonne, having two churches, a townhall, sulphurous spring (temper ature 71 Fah.}, with an attached pump-room. The people- are chiefly engaged in making rural implements, coarse linen fabrics, and in agriculture. Pop. 2430. ARED, EL-AAREDII, JEBEL ARIDH, or I MARIYEH, a mountain range, Arabia, traversing Nejd S.W. to N.E., from about lat. 22 30 N., Ion. 41 41 E., about 104 m. N.E. Mecca, to lat. 29 50 N., Ion. 46 30 E., about 150 m. S.W. Bussorah, a total distance of upwards of 550 m. At El Derayeh (lat. 25 N., Ion. 46 E.), an offset, called Jebel Tuzek, leaves the main chain in a N.N.W. direction, having a total length of about 280 m. Jebel Aridh, and its offsets, form the hill country of Nejd (which see), ARELEY, two parishes, England:] , (Kings), Co. Wor cester; 1 390 ac. ; S. by E. Bewdley. Pop. 423. 2, (Upper), Co. Stafford; 5160 ac.; N.N.W. Bewdley. Pop. 667. AREMBERG MEPPEN (DUCHY OF), a political division of Hanover, between Oldenburg and Holland ; area, 544 geo. sq. m. It is traversed, S. to N., by the Ems, and consists chiefly of sandy wastes, moors, and heath. Its principal riches consist in turf. Agriculture is little attended to, but the culture of bees is pursued with advantage. Formerly constituting part of the bishopric of Minister, in 1803 it came into the possession of the Duke of Aremberg; in 1810 it was united to France ; in 1815 it was given to Hanover ; and, in 1826, it was erected into the duchy of Aremberg Meppen by George IV. of Great Britain. Pop. 49,000. ARENAS [Spanish, Sands], the name of a number of islands, capes, &c., in various parts of the world : 1, An isl. or rather sandbank, off the N. coast of Colombia, in the middle of the Bay of Galera de Zamba ; lat. 10 46 N. , Ion. 75 30 W. 2, A low isl. Gulf of Mexico, 3 m. long by 2 m. broad ; rocks all round; lat. 22 8 N. ; Ion. 91 23 W. (R.) 3, A bay or cape, off Cape Isabella, N. coast, Hayti, the cape being in lat. 19 58 40" N. ; Ion. 71 6 30" W. 4, A Cay, N. America, Bay of Honduras ; lat. 71 12 N. ; Ion. 88 W. 5, A sandy point, N. coast, Colombia, Gulf of Darien, at the entrance (E. side) of the Bay of Choco ; lat. 8 33 N. ; Ion. 76 56 15" W. 6, An isl. and point, N.E. coast, Guati- mala, S. side, Gulf of Matina, or San Juan; lat. 10 56 42" N.; Ion. 83 42 15" W. (R.) 7, A sandy point, N. coast, Venezuela, E. side of the entrance into the Lake of Maracaybo ; lat. 11 7 N.; Ion. 70 57 W. (R.) 8, A point, W. extremity of Luzon; lat. 16 21 N.; Ion. 119 41 E. (R.) 9, Point Arenas, the most W. extremity of the isl. of Margarita, Ca ribbean Sea; lat. 11 N.; Ion. 64 30 W. AREN D A L, a seaport tn. Norway, prov. of, and 36 m. N.E. Christiansand on the Skager-Rak; lat. 58 23 12" N. ; Ion. 8 52 30" E. (R.) It lies at the mouth of the Nid River, and is built on rocks projecting out into the commodious haven, formed within the islands Tromo and Hisero, between which is the narrow channel leading up to Arendal. The buildings of the town are of wood clustered in declivities, and scattered up the surrounding heights, one of which is crowned by a hand some church ; long ranges of white buildings, the dwellings of the merchant s line, the broad well laid-out quays, presenting, from the sea, an imposing appearance ; and along the shores are neat houses and stores, close to which vessels lie, the water in the harbour being very deep. The town has a commercial and two other schools, a custom-house, and three yards for ship building a branch of industry here carried on extensively. On the banks of a lake, N. the town, are some celebrated iron mines. Arendal is a place of considerable trade, possessing nearly 200 sea-going ships, chiefly employed in exporting ARENDONCK 200 ARETHUSA ( iuibcr, and in importing grain and other kinds of food. Much of the timber shipped here is brought a direct distance of about 100 ni., from Upper Tellmarken, with which there is ater communication. In 1842, 373 vessels arrived at the some stone bridge. It enjoys a delightful climate, and is esteemed one of the best built and most beautiful towns of S. America. It has a square ornamented with an elegant bronze fountain, a cathedral, several churches, three nunneries, six port ; tonn., 39,674 ; departed, same year, 309 ; tonn., 35,543. convents, a college, and an hospital. The houses and public < hitside the islands, and about 4 m. from the port, on island i edifices are all of stone, generally only of one floor, with very Torungen, is a fixed light, 130 ft. high ; lat. 58 23 2" N. ; j thick walls and vaulted roofs, to resist the shocks of earth quakes, which are frequent here, and so de structive as to have laid the city in ruins on four different occasions, besides the damage done by less violent convulsions. It has manufactures of woollen and cotton stuffs, and gold and silver tissue, with an active and flourishing trade. In the neighbourhood are several gold and silver mines, and the district round the town is fertile and well cultivated. Cove Mollendo was for merly the port of the city, but in consequence of the filling up of that port, the harbour of Hay has been adopted in its stead. Pop. about 35,000. The DEPARTMENT of Arequipa extends between lat. 15 30 and 21 28 S., and con sists of seven provinces Caman.i, Condesuyos de Arequipa, the Cercado or district of Arequipa, Moquejua, Arica, Tarapaca", and Caylloma. AREQUIPA, a volcano of the Peruvian Andes, about 12 m. E. the city of that name ; lat. 16 20 S. ; Ion. 71 55 W. Its height, according to Pentland, is 20,320 ft. The summit of the moun tain, which is in the form of a stupendous cone, is generally covered with snow for about 500 ft. downwards. It has a deep crater, from which ashes and vapour are constantly seen to issue. In the immediate vicinity of the volcano, there are other two mountains of great height, Pichu Pichu and Chacani, ARENDAL -- From Asbjbrusen, Morge Fremstillet i TegninRcr. lou. 8 52 5" E. (R.) Areudal, in 1840, suffered a good deal of damage by fire, which, however, has since been repaired, much to the improvement of the town. In 1835, the pop. of the town proper was 1962, including suburbs Colbjb rnsvig, Strommen, Sandvigen, and Tromoen, 4000. In 1846, the town proper had increased to 3562 ; including suburbs, 4500. (Skb ldberg, Beslcrifning fifver SkandinavsJca Half Cm; For ester s Norway, in 1848-9; Munch, Kurt over det sydliye Norge.) ARENDONCK, a tn. Belgium, chief place both of com. and can. of same name, prov. of, and 32 m. E. from Antwerp. The manufacture of stockings and worsted caps occupies a fourth of the inhabitants. Of the former, 200,000 pairs are annually made ; area of com. above 7000 ac. Pop. 3488. ARENDSEE, a small tn. Prussian Saxony, gov. of, and 52 m. N. from Magdeburg; on the S. side of Lake Arend, , which are also generally covered with snow. They are com posed of trachytic rocks, and are conjectured to have formed a portion of the walls of a very extensive elevation-crater, in the midst of which the more recent eruption-cone of Arequipa has been raised. ARES, a tn. and seaport, Spain, in Galicia, prov. of, and 17 m. S.S.W. from Coruiia, tolerably well built, having a church, townhall, and the ruins of a castle and fortification. Fishing and curing fish are carried on. Pop. 1850. ARETHUSA, a celebrated fountain of Sicily, in the city which abounds with pike and eels, and in which petrifactions i of Syracuse. It springs from the earth, under a natural arch and amber are occasionally found. It is divided into the old and new town, and has a Lutheran chapter with seven prebendaries, an hospital, a brandy distillery, and several breweries. Pop. 1950. ARENSBURG, a seaport tn. European Russia, gov. Livonia, cap. and S.E. side of the isl. of Oesel ; lat. 5H" lo ti" N. ; Ion. 22 27 4;V E. (R.) It is the most unimportant liussian fort in the Baltic. The exports are grain, timber, cattle, butter, cheese, tallow, and hides. The trade of the place is chiefly carried on with Liibeck, Sweden, and Holland, in small vessels, of which from 20 to 30 arrive annually ; they anchor at about 5 m. from the town, at a place called the Kettle ; their cargoes are loaded and unloaded by small craft or prams, to and from the town, the water in the port not being deep enough for vessels of burden. P. (1849), 3592. ARENSWALDE. See ARNSWALDE. ARENYS DE MAR, a tn. Spain, in Cata- Ionia, prov. of, and 26 m. N.E. from Barcelona, on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea, in the midst of a rich wine district, tolerably well built, and having well-arranged streets, a square, a parish church, Latin and other schools, an hospital, theatre, and prison. Lace-making, weaving coarse cotton fabrics, distilling brandy, making soap, and other che mical operations, are carried on. Wine, charcoal, wooden hoops, barrels, and timber, are exported ; and grain, alcohol, &c., imported. Pop. 4780. AREQUIPA, a city, Peru, cap. dep. of same name; 450 m. S.E. Lima, 200 m. S.W. Cuzco, and about 40 in. from tiie shores of the Pacific; lat. 17 S.; Ion. 72 10 30" \V. (n., finely situated, 7850 ft. above the sea level, on the plain of Quilca, on the river Chile, which is here crossed by a hand- in the rock, within a short distance of the sea, being separated from the latter by the city wall only. The water described by ancient writers as pure and sweet, is now brackish, from the sea having found access to it, and is used for washing only. The fish spoken of by Cicero have also disappeared, together with its sacred groves and temples. The fountain is named after the nymph Arethusa, who, according to Greek fable, was bathing in the river Alpheus, in Peloponessus, when the river-god, becoming enamoured of her, pursued her, upon which she supplicated the assistance of her patron goddess, Diana, who compassionately transformed her into a fountain. Alpheus, then, seeking to commingle his waters with those of the metamorphosed nymph, Diana opened a passage under ARETTE 201 ARGEXTAN ground, by which her favourite escaped to where the fountain now exists, the island of Ortygia, a part of Syracuse. The story goes on to say that Alpheus still pursued her, either underground or through the sea, without mingling his waters with those of the ocean ; consequently, that substances thrown into the Alpheus, in Greece, will in due time appear in the fountain of Arethusa. (Ovid s Metamorphosis, v. 572.) Pau- sanius gives a somewhat different version of this story (v. 7). ARETTE, a tn. France, dep. Basses Pyrenees, about 11 in. S.W. Oleron, in a fine forest at the foot of hills which form the first slopes of the Pyrenees. It is an ancient place, and several of the houses are interesting from their antiquity. AEEVALO, a tn. Spain, in Old Castile, prov. Arila, G9 m. N. W. Madrid, partly enclosed by ruined walls, well built, and having a handsome suburb, with a church, townhall, sessions-house, two prisons, a storehouse, hospital, Latin and other schools, &c. Pop. chiefly agricultural, 2200. AREZZO [anc. Arretium] , a city, Tuscany, cap. of prov. and bishopric of its own name, on the slope of a hill, in the plain of Chiaria, r. bank, Castro, an affluent of the Arno. It is surrounded by walls 3 m. in length ; has paved, regular, and for the most part, well-built streets, a large square, a noble Gothic cathedral, containing some fine pictures and monu- pro buil CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA, AREZ/O. From Gaily Knight s Ecclesiastical Archit* ments ; several churches, municipal buildings, four hospitals, a university, academy of arts and surgery ; a public library, museum, theatre, medical and other schools ; also an episcopal palace, a palace of the Albergotti family, an aqueduct, the remains of an ancient amphitheatre and citadel, and the monu ment of Mecaenas. Of the churches, the handsomest, as well as the most ancient, is that of Santa Maria. The whole build ing, though irregular, and somewhat fantastic in its details, exhibits an elegance and facility of style which is extremely pleasing. Manufactures : hats, combs, cutlery, nails, imple ments of husbandry, pins, and earthenware ; also woollen stuffs for the army, the making of which employs more than 1000 persons. Dyeing, tanning, and expressing oil are carried on. Four annual fairs are held. Arezzo was an important Roman military station, and once famous for its terra cotta vases. A few ruins are all that now remain of the ancient city. It is the birthplace of Mecsenas, Petrarch, Guiclo, Pope Julius II., and was long the dwelling-place of Dante. Pop. 11,716. (Dizio. Univ. Italia.) AREZZO, a prov. Tuscany (cap. Arezzo), bounded, N. by prov. Florence and the Papal States, E. by the Papal States, S. by Grosseto, and W. by Sienna, with an area of 1776 sq. m. E. and N.E., the Apennines form a natural boundary to the province, and over its surface ramify the Tuscan sub- Apennines, for the most part clothed with chestnut, beech, pine, and other trees and shrubs ; and some of them yielding coal and sulphur. The valleys have a rich alluvial soil, pro ducing abundant crops of grain, fruits, vegetables, wine, and oil. Horned cattle, pigs, and sheep are reared ; and turkeys, fowls, and game of all kinds are plentiful ; agriculture, dress ing hides, preparing wool, and expressing wine and oil, are the principal employments. There are numerous benevolent institutions in the province, and the education of youth is more attended to than formerly ; crimes against the person are comparatively rare. The people are lively, active, and VOL. T. intelligent, fond of music, dancing, and amusement. Pop. in 1836, 228,416. (Disao. Univ. Italia.) ARGA, a river, Spain, in Navarra, rising in the Pyrenees, near Irurita, and, flowing S. and S.W., it falls into the Aragon at Villefranche, after receiving several tributaries. Total course, 60 m. ARGAMAS1LLA DE ALBA, a tn. Spain, in New Castile, rov. Ciudad-Keal, 84 m. S.S.E. Madrid, on the Guadiana, ill uilt, and having a church, consistory, prison, and some schools. Pop. 1600. - AlSO, AllOAMASILLA (DE CALATEAVA), a tn., 13 m. S. Ciudad Heal, having a church, townhall, prison, and storehouse. The inhabitants are much employed in lace- making for the traders in Almagro (which see). Pop. 2020. ARGANA, or ARGIIANA MADEN, a populous tn. Turkish Armenia, pash. Diarbekir, 1. bank, Tigris, near its source, 36m. W.N.W. Diarbekir, cap. dist. of same name; lat. 38 13 N. ; Ion. 39 10 E. It is situated on Mount Taurus, on a de clivity so abrupt, that the houses appear to be piled one above another ; and in winter the torrents rush down the streets with a violence that often renders them impassable. It is wretchedly built, and is inhabited by Kurds and Turks. At an elevation of 3644 ft. above the level of the sea, there is a rich copper mine. The surrounding hills are covered with vineyards. Pop. 4000. ARGANDA-DET.-REY, a tn. Spain, in New Castile, prov. of, and 18 m. S.E. from Madrid, on the high road thence to Valencia, ill built, and having a church and two chapels, with a ceme tery, townhall, hospital, prison, abattoir, and some schools. The inhabitants are employed chiefly in tillage, but also in soapworks and oil- mills. The neighbourhood is celebrated for the excellence of its red wines. Pop. 2790. ARGANIL, a tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Beira-baixa, 21 m. N.E. Coimbra. It contains a parish church and a poorhouse, and has three annual fairs. Pop. 1675. ARGELES, or ARGELEZ, a tn. France, dep. Hautes Pyrenees, cap. arrond. of its name, 17 m. S.W. Tarbes, in the beautiful valley of Lavedan, one of the finest in the Pyrenees, 1. bank, Gave d Azun, near its embouchure into the Gave de of itaij. Pf u. The town is not kept clean, but it contains a handsome square, and groups of pretty slated houses, some of them adorned with marble, and interspersed with patches of rich verdure, which have a very pleasing effect. The only manufacture is steel. Goitre and cretinism are prevalent throughout the district. Pop. 1718. ARGENS, a river, France, with three different sources, which unite at Chateauvert, dep. Var. The chief source is at the foot of Mount Scillon. The river owes its name (argenteus, silvery) to its limpid waters, which are almost always silvery white. Near the chapel of St. Michael, be tween Vidauban and the Thoronet, it precipitates itself over a lofty rock, and forms a magnificent cataract. Losing itself in the abyss into which it falls, it disappears, and again emerges about half a mile below. In its course, which is about 60 m. it receives numerous small tributaries, and falls into the Mediterranean about 2 m. S.W. Frejus. It is not pro perly navigable, but an immense quantity of pine is annually floated down it, and cut up in planks at the sawmills of Muy and Frejus, to be afterwards carried to Toulon and Marseilles. ARGENTAN [anc. Aregenuce, Argentonium Castrum], a tn. France, dep. Orne (Normandy), picturesquely situated on a height in an extensive and fertile plain, which is bounded on the E. by the forest of Argentan, 28 m. N.N.W. Alencon. The town, which is traversed by the Orne, is clean, has well- built houses, and regular streets, and is surrounded by ram parts, which form a promenade. The old castle of Argentan, an extensive massy structure of the 15th century, has been converted into a court of justice and a prison. The churches of St. Germain and St. Martin are interesting edifices of the same century. The manufactures are chiefly linens, ticks, leather, and lace. Pop. 4760. - The ARROND. of Argentan includes 11 cantons. Its chief products are corn, cattle, poultry, and cheese. The last, in particular, bears a high name. The district also has been long famous for its horses. The famous Haras du Pin, to which the superiority of tho Norman breed is mainly attributed, is near Argentan. ARGENTARO (MOUNT) 202 ARGUIN ARGENTARO (MOUNT), a lofty and extensive pro montory, N. W. end, isl. Sardinia; lat. 42 23 42" N.; Ion. 11 10 30" E. (R.) It is visible from a distance of 30 m., and, seen from the N. or S., appears to be an island separated from the main by the low land to the E. ARGENTAT, a tn. France, dep. Correze (Limousin), about 15 m. S.S.E. Tulle, in a beautiful valley, r. bank, Dor- dogne, over which is here a suspension bridge. The cath edral is a Gothic edifice, of striking appearance, but is dis figured by paintings in bad taste. Argentat carries on a considerable trade in corn, ship timber, wood, charcoal, and the rather dusty coal raised from a seam in the vicinity, of about 3 ft. thick. All these products are sent to Bordeaux by the Dordognc, which is navigable for small barques as far up as Argentat. Pop. 2076. ARGENTEAU, a vil. Belgium, r. bank, Mouse, prov. of, and 6 ra. N.E. Liege. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in agriculture. A few make capsules and other vessels of platina. In the vicinity is an old castle, picturesquely situated ou a rocky eminence crowned with verdure. Pop. 800. ARGENTETJIL [Latin, Argentolium}. 1, A tn. France, dep. Seine- et-Oise, r. bank, Seine, 7 m. below Paris, on a small hill, in a fine district abounding in vineyards and gardens, the greater part of the fruit and vegetables of which are sent to Paris. In the vicinity are extensive quarries of gypsum ; and close to the town are the ruins of the Benedictine abbey, in which Heloise received her education ; she afterwards became prioress of it, previous to being abbess of the Paraclete, founded by Abelard. Pop. 4569. 2, A vil., with about 700 inhabitants, in the dep. of the Yonne (Champagne), 10 m. S.E. Tonnere. ARGENTIERA, or KHIMOI.I [anc. Cimolis, or Cimolus, and Eckinusa, or the Isle of Vipers], an isl. Grecian Archi pelago, N. of Milo, from which it is separated by a channel about 1 in. broad ; lat. 36 49 18" N.; Ion. 24 33 30" E. (R.) It is about 18 m. in circumference, of a roundish or oval shape, hilly, some heights being 1000 ft. high, of volcanic formation, with a generally sterile soil, producing, however, in some parts, wheat, barley, cotton, grapes, and other kinds of fruit ; and, in the valleys, feeding a few sheep and goats. It is said to have contained at one time a few silver mines, whence its name Argentiera. It is noted also for a substance anciently called creta Cimolia, Cimolian chalk, a species of fuller s earth, or decomposed porphyry, possessing some of the qualities of soap, and used in washing and bleaching. The island contains a few hot springs, but is destitute of fresh water. The climate is unhealthy. It has a harbour affording good anchorage for light vessels, but has hardly any trade. ARGENT1ERE (CoL u ), a mountain-pass, Maritime Alps, on the road from Barcelonette to Coni, 7200 ft. above the sea level ; lat. 44 27 N. ; Ion. 6 55 E. The path over the Col skirts a little lake called La Madelaine, the source of the Stura. From the summit of the pass, the view is very extensive, especially towards France. ARGENTIERE is also the name of a vil. in Piedmont, within a short distance of the pass. ARGENTINA, a small fort and settlement, La Plata, at the head of Blanco Bay, 390 m. S.S.W. Buenos Ayres ; lat. 38 20 S. ; Ion. 62 10 W. The fort was commenced in April 1828, with the view of checking the Indians, but was never completed, and is now almost wholly neglected. Neither has it made any progress as a colony, although, says Captain Fitzroy, it is the beginning of what may hereafter be a con siderable place. Situated favourably for communicating with Conception, by way of the pass through the cordillera, near Tucapel, it is the only port between lat. 25 S. and Cape Horn, capable of receiving in security any number of the largest ships. The country around is flat, and good grazing districts are within a short distance, but it is subject to the disad vantage of long droughts, some of them of 2 or 3 years con tinuance, although fresh water may generally be obtained, independent of the few running streams, by digging wells of from 4 to 10 ft. deep. The heat in summer is excessive, but in winter there are sharp frosts, sometimes snow. ARGENTINE REPUBLIC. See PLATA (LA). ARGENTON-suR-CREUSE [anc. Arr/cntonum],atn. France, dep. Indre (Berri), 18 m. S.S.W. Chateauroux. It is tra versed by the Creuse, which divides it into two towns, con nected by a stone bridge. The upper town, the ruins of which attest its antiquity, is built upon a rock, in the form of an amphitheatre, and has still some remains of its large old castle, flanked by 10 high towers, which was at one time esteemed im pregnable. It has a wall of its own, with four gates, by which it communicates with the lower town, which lies at the end of a valley shut in by two vine-clad hills. Manufactures: cloth, paper, tiles, pottery, and glass. There are also several small fulling-mills and bleaching-grounds. In the neighbour hood, fine potter s clay of a white colour is found. Pop. 4346. ARGENTON is also the name of several small towns and villages in France. ARGHURL See ARGTTRI. ARGISII. See ARDJISH. ARGO, GANGODES, or CORA, an isl. in the Nile, Nubia, in Dongola, between lat. 19 10 and 19 32 N. It is about 25 m. in length, and 5 m. in breadth. The soil is fertile, but a small portion only is cultivated, the island being but thinly inhabited. Great numbers of sycamores, acacias, palms, &c., grow on it, and its pastures are covered with herds of cattle and horses. It abounds also with hares, pigeons, quails, and partridges. There are several interesting ruins on the island, including two colossal figures, in red granite, of excellent workmanship. They are both prostrate, and one of them has been broken into three pieces, but the other is in good preser vation. ARGOLIS, one of the anc. divisions of Greece, and, with Corinth, still forming one of its provinces or nomcs. It com prises the peninsula formed by the Gulfs Egina and Nauplia or Napoli, and part of the mainland, to Ion. 22 3 E. ; bounded, W. by Achaia and Arcadia, S. by the Gulf of Nauplia and the Mediterranean, and N. and N.E. by the Gulfs of Corinth and Egina. It is traversed throughout its whole length, from N.W. to S.E., by a ridge of mountains, intersected by deep valleys, through which flow rivulets, generally dry during summer. The valleys are most numerous, and of greatest breadth on the S. side of the ridge, but none of them are of any great extent. The coast is irregular, with numerous in dentations, and generally low. The only good harbour is Nauplia, at the head of the gulf of same name. ARGOS, a tn. Greece, nome or prov. Argolis, 6 m. N.W. Nauplia, r. bank, Planitza, on the W. side of a large and fer tile plain, yielding corn, cotton, tobacco, figs, grapes, and rice ; lat. (N.W. corner of Larissa) 37 38 9" N. ; Ion. 22 43 12" E. (L.) It has regular streets, houses principally of wood, .vitli projecting porticoes, which give them a light airy ap- penrance. Pop. (1853), 10,000. Here are the scattered ruins of the ancient Argos, little more than an undistinguish- able mass. W. from the town, on an eminence, stands the Acropolis, called Larissa, once a place of great strength. ARGOSTOL1, a city, Ionian Islands, cnp. of Cephalonia, on a small peninsula, E. shore of the gulf to which it gives name; lat. (Hook Point fixed light) 38 11 12" N.; Ion. 20 28 30" E. (R.) It is marshy and insalubrious. The houses are low, small, and meanly built ; but the town has a small lyceum, a lazaretto, barracks, and churches. The harbour is considered the best in the Ionian Islands, and has several dockyards. The inner haven or port affords excellent shelter, excepting when the wind is from the N.N.W., to which it is open. Manufactures: cotton and pottery. Numerous trading vessels frequent the port; which is the residence of the British governor, of a Greek bishop, and the seat of the civil and criminal courts of the island. Pop. 8000. ARGUIN, an isl., W. coast, Africa, in a bay of the same name, about 54 m. S.E. Cape Blanco; lat. 20 27 N.; Ion. 16 37 W. It is between 30 and 40 m. long, about 1 m. broad, and about 8 m. from the mainland ; between which and the island the water is shallow, the deepest part not exceeding 5 ft. The island is formed of a whitish rock, covered to the depth of about 9 ft. with sand, which is constantly shifting. The N. part is flat, but the S. rises to a considerable elevation, and may be seen at a distance of 30 m. It produces no wood, except a small shrub called the phinim tree ; which yields a caustic juice much used by the Arabs as a healing medicament. Water, of excellent quality, is abundant ; but, owing to the constant shifting of the sand, the wells are often difficult to find. There are two considerable markets or fairs held on the island during the year, in June and December ; and many strangers come from a considerable distance to traffic, bringing necklaces, beads, cloths, and tobacco, for which they receive ARGUN 203 ARGYLE fish and oil, on which the inhabitants, 60 in number in 1844, entirely subsist. The only quadrupeds known are white rats; and the only birds hitherto seen, storks, cranes, and pelicans. The heat is sometimes very great, but the climate is healthy. Arguin is supposed to be identical with the island of Cerne, where Hanno settled a colony during his celebrated voyage of discovery. The BANK or SHOAL of Arguin commences about 12 m. S. Cape Blanco, and stretches S. for upwards of 130 m. ; breadth at the broadest part, which is in the centre, about 40 m. ; at cither end the breadth does not exceed 10 m. It is a hard, sandy flat, generally covered with broken shells. Its outer edge has been fixed at 7 fathoms, which lessens E., or towards the land, to 4 fathoms. Close to the breakers, on some parts of the bank, there are not more than 10 ft. water. Numerous shipwrecks have taken place on this dangerous shoal, amongst them that of the French frigate Medusa. 2, A tn. of same name on the coast opposite the island. It was formerly a French settlement ; and is the termination of the caravan route from Timbuctoo. ARGUN, or AKOOUN, a river of N.E. Asia. See AMOOK. ARGUNSK, a fort, Siberia, gov. Irkutsk, 1. bank, Argun, from which pearls are obtained, 130m. E. Nertchinsk; lat. 50 50 N.; Ion. 120 15 E. A considerable trade is carried on here ; and in the vicinity silver and gold are obtained, and from several lakes salt is procured. Pop. 800. ARGURI, a vil. Russian Armenia, 186 m. S. Tiflis, and about 30 m. S.W. Erivan, on the level ground at the end of the great chasm on the N.E. slope of Mount Ararat, about 5400 ft. above the sea. This was formerly one of the largest and most beautiful villages in Armenia ; its houses, all of stone, were enclosed within courtyards, surrounded by stone walls, and it had a well-built church. A rivulet, which had its source in a glacier, and passed down through the great chasm, had its outlet at the village, and, in conjunction with some spring wells, afforded a plentiful supply of good water. The inhabitants, about 1600 Armenians, and a number of Kurds, lived by rearing horses and cattle, and by growing some corn, though at a distance from the village, the soil in the immediate neighbourhood being very stony. They also cultivated the vine, which, according to very questionable tradition, was first planted here by Noah when he left the ark, whence the Armenian name of the village [argr/t, he planted, itrri, the vine] . Up the mountain, a short distance from Arguri, was the monastery and chapel of St. James, 6375 ft. above the sea. It stood on a grassy terrace, about 25 ft. above the rivulet in the lower part of the great chasm, which here has a depth of 600 to 800 ft. In this monastery Parrot and his companions resided during their exploration of the mountain. On July 2, 1840, an eruption of Ararat overwhelmed, in one common destruction, the village of Arguri and the monastery and chapel of St. James, with their inhabitants and inmates, consisting of 1500 Armenians, 400 Kurdish servants, and eight monks. Only 114 individuals escaped, who were en gaged in the fields, and otherwise at a distance from the scene of the calamity. Since the eruption, the wells of the village have given forth discoloured water of a sulphurous taste. See ARARAT. (Parrot s Journey to Ararat; Wagner s Rtise nacU dem Ararat.} ARGYLE, an inland co. of New South Wales, 60 m. in length from N. to S., and 36 in breadth; area, 1,248,600 ac. It consists of extensive ridges and swelling hills, with irregu lar plains between ; and is watered by streams branching from the Hawkesbury and Shoalhaven rivers. It is more scantily supplied with timber than most of the other counties, there being a tract called Goulburn Plains, consisting of 35,000 ac., without a single tree. The plains of this county are exceed ingly fertile, and the scenery in general picturesque. The county town, Goulburn, is 125 m. S.W. from Sydney. The county sends one member to the Legislative Council. Pop. 5000. ARGYLE, or ARGYLL, an extensive co. in the S.W. of the Highlands of Scotland, consisting partly of mainland, and partly of islands ; bounded, N. by Inverness ; E. by Perth, Dumbarton, the Frith of Clyde, and Kilbrannan Sound : S. by the North Channel ; and W. by the Atlantic Ocean. Area, about 2,432,000 ac., of which 308,000 are under culti vation. Greatest length of mainland about 115 in.; breadth exceedingly irregular, being about 60 m. near its N., and nol much over 10 m. at its S., extremity. From the windings f the numerous bays and creeks with which the land is everywhere indented, it is supposed to have more than 600 of sea-coast. Its principal inlets are Loch Shiel, Loch iunart, Loch Linnhe, Loch Etive, Loch Fine, and Loch Long. Argyle is divided into five districts, Cowall, Lorn or Argyle roper, Cantyre, Morven, and Sunart. Of these there are arious subdivisions, such as Appin, Glcnorchy, Ardna- lurchan, and Knapdalo. The county includes the islands f Tiree, Coll, Mull, Islay, Jura, Staffa, lona or Icolmkill, , anna, Ruin, Muck, Lismore, Lorn, Ken-era, Seil, Easdale, ^uiiig, Shuna, Lunga, Scarba, Colonsay and Oronsay, Gigha, Sanda, Gometra, and Ulva. The chief towns are the capital, nverary, Campbelton, Oban, Bowmore, Lochgilphead, anil lobermory. For a long time this county scarcely formed part f the kingdom, being subject to the Macdonalds of the Isles, rho assumed regal and independent sway over it. The estates, titles, and jurisdiction of the latter, however, sub- equently fell to the Campbells, to whom they still belong. L he Duke of Argyle, whose seat is at Inverary, is proprietor >r feuar of the largest portion of the territory, and chief of the amily of Campbell. The general features of the county are varied and striking ; consisting of lofty mountains, deep glens, and inlets of the sea running far into the land. Towards the *f. it exhibits the wild grandeur characteristic of the W. highlands of Scotland. The W. termination of the great Grampian range is within he county. The mountain masses which stretch N.E. from he river Awe into the shires of Perth and Inverness, consist jhiefly of granite; which also extends along the N.W. shore )f Loch Linnhe into the districts of Sunart and Morven. In ilmost every other part of the mainland (especially among the jirampians, on the E. borders of the county), and in several >f the islands, as Islay, Jura, &c., mica-slate is the prevailing ock, and is extensively quarried. Limestone, chiefly of the earlier, but partly also of the more recent formation, and sometimes in the form of tolerable marble, is found ; and a mall coal field is partially worked in the neighbourhood of Campbelton. The earth called Strontian was first discovered it the village of that name in this county, and there two veins )f lead exist. Copper has been discovered in several localities, and was at one time worked. The climate, though variable, is on the whole mild. The 11s and forests abound with fallow-deer, stags, rocs, and almost every sort of game. The coast, although rocky, being ndented with numerous deep bays and lochs, affords abund ance of safe and excellent harbourage. In the interior there re several lakes, the largest of which is Loch Awe. The county is intersected by numerous streams, but none of im portance. Both lakes and streams abound with fish. The soil is of a mixed character, the pasture various, many of the 11s being covered with heath, while others are green to their summits. Numerous herds of black cattle and sheep are eared ; which, next to the fisheries, occupies the chief atten tion of the inhabitants. Some of the gluns are fertile, and in good cultivation ; particularly Glendarucl, the finest in the county. Agricultural produce is chiefly confined to barley, >, and potatoes ; but wheat, rye, pease, beans, and flax are also cultivated to a small extent. The chief articles of export are sheep, cattle, horses, fish, slate, and granite. The prin cipal manufactures are leather, the weaving of wool, and smelting of iron ore. One of the most important branches of ndustry is the fishing of herring, cod, and ling, which abound on the coast, and around the islands. The roads by which the county is traversed are generally good. It has also internal water communication by the Caledonian and C rinan Canals ; the latter lying wholly within the county, and shortening the passage from the Frith of Clyde to the W. Highlands by 120 m. Nothing has given a greater impulse to the agriculture and industry of Argyllshire than the extension of steam naviga tion. By this means the most distant parts of the county are brought into easy communication with one another, and with Glasgow, to which the inhabitants can now send their stock and produce with the certainty of finding a ready market. Among the antiquities of Argyle are the celebrated monastery of lona, the remains of a Cistertian priory in Oronsay, and the castles of Dunstaflhage on Loch Etive, Ardtornish on the Sound of Mull, Skipness in Cantyre, and Kilchurn on Loch Awe. The most noted of its natural curiosities are the ARGYRO CASTRO 204 ARIEGE basaltic columns and cave of Staffa. Argyle is the birthplace of Ossian, and the scene of many of the occurrences recorded in his poems. The cave of Stafla still bears the name of Fingal s Cave. The population of the entire county, which in 1801 was 73,023, in 1851 amounted to 89,298. Parliamentary constituency for 1844-5, 1766. Valued rental, 12,466, 5s. Wd. ; annual real value in 1815. 227,493. (New Stat. Ace.; Forsyth s Beauties of Scotland; Hon. Mrs. Murray s Guide to Beauties of Scotland; Anderson s Guide to Highlands ; &c.) ARGYRO CASTRO, or ERGIR CASTRO [Turkish, Eryhile], a tn. European Turkey, in Albania, 1. bank. Ergir or Argiro, 40 m. N.W. Jannina. This town, fortified by an extensive castle perched on a rock of conglomerate, and commanding the mountain-pass of Derbeud, is situated on several ridges of rock, broken up by deep ravines, and connected by stone bridges. The houses are scattered over an irregular and broken surface, giving the town a singular and romantic appear ance. The place was taken and fortified by Ali Pasha BALZ in 1812. It was then a place of much greater consequence than it is now, its population being, in 1813, estimated at 13,000; but decay of trade, visitations of the plague, and the by a patriot force, and nearly deserted by its inhabitants. The port is small, and landing difficult, on account of the great swell of the surf, except in the balsas, or double canoes of the country, which are constructed of inflated seal skins, and being war of Greek independence, had reduced the inhabitants, in 1839, to 2000 Albanian and 200 Greek families ; most of the OF INFLATED SKINS. iVom I> OrLiigny, Vojase J""" managed by the natives with great dexterity, will live where an ordinary boat would be swamped. On these fragile barques ARGYRO CASTKO. f few Turks there resident being government officials or soldiers. | The vale of Argyro Castro, which is of a pastoral character, is 30 m. long, and from 4 to 5 wide. ARTAXO, a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Ultra, 44 m. N.E. Naples, on a steep hill in one of the most frequented passes of the Apennines, on the main road from Naples to Puglia. It is the residence of a superintendent of education, and of a suffragan bishop ; it contains a handsome cathedral, 12 parish churches, several convents, an academy, an hospital, several monts-de-piete, and some earthenware manufactories. It suffered greatly from earthquakes in 1456 and 1 732. Pop. 11,718. ARICA, a maritime tn. Peru, cap. dist. of its own name, dep. of, and 200 m. S.S.E. from Arequipa; 200 m. N.W. Potosi ; situated in an agreeable valley, upon the coast of the Pacific; lat. (mole) 18 28 6" S.; Ion. 70 24 W. (R.) The houses are chiefly constructed of canes and reeds, covered with mats. Glass beads are manufactured in the town, and near it salt is obtained plentifully. Arica was formerly a more considerable place than it is now, and had a larger population. From this port, the produce of the celebrated mines of Potosi, in Bolivia, were shipped. It has now fallen into comparative insignificance, and has at various times suffered severely from earthquakes, especially in 1833, when it was almost entirely destroyed. It is the principal port through which foreign business is carried on with Bolivia, that country not possess ing any convenient port of its own. The customs revenue of Arica in 1845, amounted to 54,154; and in 1846, to 64,578. During the war of independence in 1821, Arica was much injured by military operations, having been attacked all kinds of goods are landed. At the entrance to the roads of Arica lies the island of Guano, so thickly covered with the manure of the same name as to communicate no very agreeable odour to the prevalent W. winds blowing over the island, right on the ships at anchor. - The DISTRICT of Arica is about 480 m. long, N.W. and S.E., and about 40 m. average breadth, E. to W. It is, in general, extremely barren, consisting principally of sandy deserts, with a few cultivated spots. In some of the valleys, Guinea pepper, wheat, maize, and other crops are grown. Pop. of the town about 3500, though once estimated at 30,000. ARICATI. See ARACATI. ARICII AT, a flourishing seaport, Cape Breton Island, S. side,Madame Island, about lat. 45 28 N. ; lon. 61 3 W. It contains several considerable establishments for pro secuting the fishery The trade is for the most part in the hands of Jersey merchants, who employ the people in the neighbour hood in taking fish, large exports of which, both dry and pickled, are made to the West , Alton :., *<. Indies, to S. America, and to Europe. Pop. between 1500 and 2000. ARID, a small isl. Indian Ocean, about 70 m. S.W. Possession Island ; lat. 46 56 S. ; Ion. 47 30 E. ARIEGE, a river, France, supposed to derive its Latin name, Aurigera, from the grains of alluvial gold found in its bed ; has its source in Lake Embeix, at the foot of the Pic de Framiquel, in the E. Pyrenees ; flows N.W. through dep. Ariege, enters Ilaute-Garonne, and falls into the river Garonne at Pinsaguel, about 6 in. S. Toulouse, after a course of about 93 m. It becomes navigable at Cintegabelle, 17 m. above its embouchure, the place where Lord Hill, with a portion of the British forces, crossed the Ariege in 1814. The river abounds in excellent salmon trout, shad-fish, &c. ARIEGE, or ARRIEGE, a dep. France, on the Spanish frontier, comprehending the former Comte de Foix, nearly the whole of Couserans, in Gascony, some communes of ancient Languedoc, and a considerable portion of the Pyrenees ; bounded, W. and N. by Ilaute-Garonne, E. by Aude, S.E. by Pyrenees Orientales, and S. by the valley of Andorra and the Pyrenees. Area, 1,124,816 ac., two-thirds of which are covered by mountains ; length, E. to W. 64 m. ; breadth, N. to S. 48 m. The mountains rise gradually from N. to S., and reach their greatest elevation on the extreme frontier, in the Pyrenees. The principal summit is Mont- calm, 10,663 ft. high. The others range from an altitude of 10,61 1 to 6299 ft., the height of the Puy Moreins. The various branches stretching from E. to W. separate the de partment into two valleys, the one watered by the Ariege, and the other by the Salat. These two rivers are the only navigable ones. Among numerous other streams are the Yolp, the Arize, the waters of which pass under ground in AEIENZO 205 ARKANSAS two places, and the Leze, all of which flow into the Garonne. In the N., the climate is mild and temperate, but in the S. the heat is oppressive in summer, and the cold extreme in winter. The higher lands in the S. furnish principally wood and pastures, with some medicinal plants ; the lower are re markable for their fertility, particularly in the N. districts about Pamieres, St. Girons, and Mirepoix. Chief produce : corn, wheat, maize, millet, potatoes, hemp, and flax. The arable land in the department extends to 366,692 ac.; meadows, 82,835 ac.; vineyards, 28,603 ac.; wood, 222,664 ac.; heath and barren land, 322,664 ac. The vine is cultivated up to the middle of the highest mountains. The wine is of in different quality, and is entirely consumed in the district. There are numerous orchards, and woods of chestnuts, which yield a great deal of fruit. A large quantity of cattle, sheep, and goats, are reared. Bears, wild boars, wolves, foxes, badgers, roebucks,chnmois, polecats, otters, hares, and rabbits abound in the forests and mountains ; also eagles and other birds of prey. Eeptiles and vipers are found in the marshy places, and trout and craw-fish in the rivers and lakes. The staple trade of the department is in iron, the principal mines of which are at La Eancie, in the Vicdessos, which supply nearly 60 furnaces in* this one department alone. Lead and copper are procured in various places ; and also small quantities of silver. Marble, jasper, gypsum, slates, and coal, are worked. Cloth, hosiery, cotton stuffs, woollens, linens, hats, soap, earthenware, and china; leather, paper, and glass, are manufactured ; and iron, cattle, cork, resin, wool, marble, and jasper, exported. A considerable tiaffic is earned on with Spain, the goods being transported over the Pyrenees chiefly on mule or horseback. The department, of which Foix is the capital, is divided into three arrondissements Foix, Pamiers, and St. Girons, and subdivided into 20 cantons and 336 communes. Pop. 270,555. (Murray s Handbook for France; French Official Talles.} AEIENZO, a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, 18 m. N.E. Naples, on Mount Tifati, between Naples and Bene- vento ; and said to have been founded by the Normans. It has seven parish churches, an hospital, and a mont-de-pitte. Pop. between 10,000 and 11,000. ARlGrNA, a coal and iron dist. Ireland, in the N. of co Eoscommon, on the stream of the same name. Attempts have repeatedly been made to work the minerals of this dis trict, but hitherto without any advantageous result. AEINOS, a river, Brazil, prov. Matto-Grosso. It rises in the Parcels mountains, which form part of the N. boundary of the Diamond District; takes a N.W. course, and falls into the river Tapajos, an affluent of the Amazon, in hit. 9 30 S. ; Ion. 58 20 W., after a course of about 700m. (Die. Geo. Imp. Brazil.) ARIPO, a small tn., W. coast, isl. Ceylon, Gulf of Manaar, Bay of Condatchy, 125 m. N. Colombo; lat. 8 45 N. ; Ion. 80 8 E. The surroimding country is sterile. To the E. is a bank where the pearl fishery is carried on, in the Gulf of Manaar ; and during the fishing season the civil and military authorities reside at Aripo. AEISH, or ARAISH (EL), a fort and vil. Egypt, near the Syrian frontier, 168 m. N.E. Cairo; lat. 31 5 30" N. ; Ion. 33 57 45" E. (u.) ; on a low eminence about half a mile from the Mediterranean, on a creek and small river of the same name. It has fragments of columns and other architectural remains, and is supposed to occupy the site of the anc. Ehi- nocolura; but, in modern times, it is remarkable only as giving name to a convei.tion (July 24, 1800) between the Turks and French, after the position of the latter, in Egypt, had been rendered insecure by the battle of the Nile, by which the French agreed to leave Egypt within three months. ARISPE, a tn. Mexico, 1. bank, Sonora, cap. intendancy of same name ; lat. 30 42 N. ; Ion. 109 15 W. ; about 190 in. E. the Gulf of California. This town, says Major Pike, 1 is celebrated throughout the kingdom for the vast quantity of gold table utensils made use of in the houses, and for the urbanity and hospitality of the inhabitants. The pop. has been variously stated from 3400 to 7600 ; it may probably be between the two. ARIZE, or LAIUZE, a river, France, which rises near Puy Jugon among the mountains of Esplas, a branch of the Pyrenees, dep. Ariege, and, after a course of about 25 m., falls into the Garonne opposite Carbonne. Near Mas-d Azil, in lat. 43 5 N. ; Ion. 1 20 E., it traverses Eoche-du-Mas, one of the most remarkable caverns of the Pyrenees. Two lofty precipices, slanting towards each other, meet at their summit and form an immense arch, which is capable of shel tering 2000 men, and under which the Arize flows. The two entries to this cavern are wide, and were at one time for tified by high walls. In 1625, during the religious wars, the Calvinists of the surrounding districts took refuge here, and successfully withstood all the attempts of the R. catholic army to force them to surrender. ARJISIT, or AKDISH [anc. Arzes, Arsissa], a small tn. Kurdistan, Turkey in Asia, pash. Van, on the N.W. shore of the lake, and 40 m. N.W. the tn. of that name. It has a castle, now in a ruinous condition. In the neighbourhood are some beautiful gardens, and throughout the district large quantities of corn and cotton are produced. Lake Van is sometimes called Lake Arjish. ARJ1SH, or EHJISH-DAGH [anc. Aryans], a celebrated mountain, Asia Minor, 117 in. N. by W. from the head of the Bay of Jskenderoon ; lat. 39 3 N. ; Ion. 35 40 E. Its height is estimated, by Humboldt, at 13,197 ft.; and by Hamilton, at 13,100 ft. It rises up almost to a single peak, from a broad and extended base, consisting entirely of volcanic rocks and scoriaceous cinders of different kinds. Its sloping sides are studded all round with numerous cones and craters, the effects of volcanic action at various periods. Being nearly destitute of trees, and exhibiting little or no cultivation, it has an extremely inhospitable look ; an effect which is increased by the black, rugged, and cindery appearance of the rocks. The lowest limit of the snow line was found, by Mr. Hamilton, to be 10,300 ft. The elevation of this mountain is so great and so unusual in this part of the world, that the inhabitants of the surrounding country look upon it with awe and astonish ment, and have associated it with many fables. (Hamilton s Asia Minor ; Ainsworth s Journey from Angora to JJir.) ARJONA, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 14 m. N.W. from Jaen, on a mountain slope ; ill-built, but having a pretty promenade, with a church and five schools, a consistory, storehouse, hospital, and prison. The inhabitants are em ployed in agriculture, domestic weaving, and grinding oil. Pop. 3000. ARJONILLA, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 16 m. N.W. from Jaen, on a plain surrounded by hills; tolerably well built, and having a church and three schools, a consistory, hospital, prison, and abattoir. The inhabitants are employed in tillage, tanning leather, and making bricks and tiles. Pop. 2400. ARK, or ARCH, a small isl. in d Entrecasteaux Channel, Van Diemcn s Land, between Bruno Island and the mainland ; lat. 43 17 S.;lon. 147 19 E. ARKAIG, or AIICHAIG (Locn), a solitary but beautiful lake, S. part of Inverness-shire, Scotland, 16 m. long by 1 broad. It communicates with Loch Lochy, from which it is only about 2 m. distant, by a dark and sluggish stream. The lake is but little frequented, although the scenery around it is of surpassing beauty. ARKANSAS, one of the southern U. States of America, bounded, N. by Missouri, E. by the river Mississippi, which separates it from the states of Mississippi and Tennesse, S. by Louisiana and Texas, and W. by the Indian territory. It lies between lat. 33 and 36 30 N., and Ion. 89 30 and 94 30 W., and is 240 m. long, by 228 wide; area, 54,500 sq. m., or 34,880,000 ac. The E. part of Arkansas, watered by the numerous tributaries of the Mississippi, is low, flat, and marshy, thickly wooded, and subject to frequent inundations. The middle is more diversified, having an undulating and partly hilly surface, though of inconsiderable elevation. The W. is more hilly ; being traversed by the O/.ark range, which extends into Missouri, and, at some points, attains the height of 2000 ft. In various parts there are prairies of immense extent ; and extensive forests of large trees, consisting principally of oak, hickory, ash, cotton, linden, maple, locust, and pine. The territory is generally well watered, though in many parts it is otherwise. Its principal rivers are the Arkansas, the lied Kiver, the White Eiver, the St. Francis, and the Washita or Ouachitta, all tributaries of the Mississippi. Near the centre of the state are numerous hot springs ; the temperature of which, though variable, rises in the driest seasons to the boil- ARKANSAS 200 ARLES ing point. They arc much resorted to for chronic and para lytic affections. The higher lands are considered the most healthy ; and the climate is generally mild, but is said to be unfavourable to recent settlers. The soil is various ; the most fertile being that which skirts the rivers. The staple crops are cotton, maize, and com ; but garden plants and fruit- trees are likewise cultivated with success. Wild animals abound, and the domestic species are reared in considerable numbers. Iron, coal, salt, lead, and other minerals, are found. Manufactures and commerce, still limited, are increasing. This state has no colleges, and few common schools. The Arkansas territory, originally, and still partly occupied by Indian tribes, was colonized by the French in 1685, under the Chevalier de Tonti. In 1803, it was ceded by purchase to the U. States ; and, in 1819, was made a separate territory, having been for merly part of Louisiana. Seventeen years afterwards, its consti tution was framed, and it was admitted into the Union. The governor is elected by the people for four years, the senators for four, and the representatives for two. The state sends one member to Congress. Arkansas is divided into 54 coun ties, and contains but few large towns and villages. Pop. in 1840, 97,574; of which 19,935 were slaves, and 465 free people of colour. Total pop. in 1850, 209,639. (U. States Gazetteer; Davenport s American Gazettrer.) ARKANSAS, a large river, U. States, America, rishig in the Eocky Mountains, about lat. 40 30 N. ; Ion. 109 W., flowing E.S.E. through the Missouri and Arkansas territories, and, after a course of 2170 m., joining the Mississippi in lat. 33 40 N. Its channel is broad, and unobstructed by rocks, shoals, or rapids; boats may, at some seasons, ascend the stream for 1980m. It has numerous tributaries; the prin cipal being the Neosho, on the N., and the Canadian, with its branches, on the S. Among the upper component streams or forks, and along the banks of the main river, lies an extensive plain of reddish sand, based on a thick stratum of reck salt, and covered in dry, hot weather with a crust of pure, white, crystallized salt, several inches deep ; and named from these circumstances the salt prairie, grand saline, or salt plain. (Gregg s Commerce of tlie Prairies.} ARKENGART1I-DALE, a par. and township, England, co. York, N. Kiding ; 14,180 ac. ; N. by W. Richmond. Pop. iii 1841, 1243. ARKESDEN, a par. England, co. Essex; 2320 ac.; S. Saffron Walden. Pop. in 1841, 498. ARKHANGEL. See ARCHANGEL. ARKHOURI. See AROUHI. ARKIKO, or ARKEIKO, a seaport, Abyssinia, at the head of the Bay of Massawah; lat. 15 38 N.; Ion. 39 37 E. Il is a small, miserable place, consisting entirely of mud hovels ; and is surrounded by a flat and sandy country, with a few gardens in the immediate vicinity. It is governed by a nayib or native chief; and derives its importance from being the point of the coast nearest to the Abyssinian territories, and through which all intercourse by sea to the N. of that country is now carried on. The principal exports are corn and slaves, sent to Arabia, iire-arms being taken in exchange. ARKINSK, a Cossack settlement in Siberia, gov. of, and about 30 m. W. from Okhotsk, on the Okhota, which, a little higher up, receives the Arka. It was originally founded for the purpose of facilitating intercourse with the indigenous population, and is one of the centres whence the Yasak or tribute levied on the natives is collected. The settlers ex port to Okhotsk the nuts of the stone-pine, a tree which here, though nearly upright in summer, lies prostrate, covered with snow, in winter ; and they do also a good business in collect ing the soft horns of the rein-deer, for the Russian traders to Kiakhta, where the horns are sold to the Chinese, who make them into a jelly much sought after by gormands. The native Tungusses also make a jelly of these horns, but they only use it for glue. (Erman s Travels.) ARKLOVV, a maritime tn. and par. Ireland, co. Wicklow. The town is on the r. bank of the A voca, 14 m. S. S. W. W icklo w, and 39 S.S.E. Dublin. A bridge of 19 arches here crosses the river, which falls into the sea about 500 yards below the town. It is divided into the upper and lower town. The houses of the former are neatly built. The church, a handsome edifice, is in the centre of the town ; which also possesses a R. catholic chapel, and a small Methodist meeting-house. The lower town, built mostly of thatched mud cabins, is inhabited prin cipally by fishermen, engaged in the herring fishery, and in dredging for oysters ; the latter chiefly sent to Liverpool. The harbour being much obstructed at its entrance by a bar, is resorted to by the native fishermen only. The town con tains a school for boys, two schools for girls, a savings bank, a fever hospital, a dispensary, and a constabulary and an in fantry barracks. Some little business is done in the malt trade. At one period a considerable portion of the copper ore obtained from the Wieklow mines was exported from Arklow. The principal import is coal. The PARISH of Arklow, at the S.E. extremity of the county, 8127 ac., contains the celebrated mountain of Croghau-Kinsella ; which, about the close of the last century, was supposed to possess native gold, and mining operations were established there by Government, but the works were destroyed in the insurrection of 1798. They were afterwards resumed, but no gold being discovered, they were ultimately abandoned. Pop. of tn. in 1841, 3254; of par. 6237. ARKONA, or AKCOXA, a promontory, N. coast, isl. Riigcn, in the Baltic. There is here a fixed light, 202 ft. above the sea level; lat. 51 40 54" N.; Ion. 13 26 12" K. (R.) ARKSEY, a par. England, co. York, W. Riding; 5220 ac.; N. Doncastcr. Pop. in 1841, 1056. ARKUDI. See Auciium. ARLANC, or ARLANT, a tn. France, dep. Puy-de-DOme (Auvergne), 40m. S.E. Clermont; agreeably situated on a hill, at the foot of which flows the Dolore. Manufactures: blondes, laces, and ribbons. Pop. 1532. ARLANZA, a river, Spain, in Old Castile, rising in tho sierra de Neilar, prov. Burgos ; it flows W., and, after receiv ing the Pedrosa and other tributaries, joins the Arlanzon about 8 m. N.E. from its confluence with the Pisuerga, after a course of about 60 in. ARLANZON, a river, Spain, in Old Castile, rising 24 m. E.S.E. Burgos, in the sierra Pineda, and, flowing through Burgos, winds S.W., and falls into the Pisuerga 3 m. N.E. Torquemada, after a course of about 70 m. ARLBERG, or ADLERSUKRQ [Eagle s mount], a branch of the Rhetian Alps, in the W. of the Tyrol and the Vorarlberg, between the sources of the 111 and the Lech. The chain is traversed by a road made by the Emperor Joseph II., in 1786, and greatly improved since 1835, along which there is much traffic between Venice, Trieste, and Switzerland. A hospice was erected on the summit in 1386, to shelter travellers from the Alpine snows. ARLECDON, a par. England, co. Cumberland ; 5700 ac.; E.N.E. Whitehaven; new church, and coal worked. Pop. in 184l,558 ; ARLES [anc. Arelate, Arelatum}, a tn. France, dep. Bouehes-du-Ehone (Provence), cap. arrond. of same name, and of two cantons, 1. bank, Rhone, about 24 m. N. from the sea, and 17m. S.E. Nismcs. It stands a little below the angle of the delta formed by the two branches of the Rhone, on a rocky table of shell limestone, which slopes gradually to the river. Its old ramparts, which are not now used, enclose a space of 1 93 ac. The streets, though not laid out in per fectly straight lines, are tolerably regular and spacious ; but the pavement, composed of round flints, is fatiguing to the foot, and inconvenient. The squares, which scarcely exceed three in number, are of limited extent, but regularly formed. The principal one is the Place lloyale, which is used as the market-place, and occasionally as a circus for bull-fights a sport to which the youth of Aries are much addicted. The principal ornament of this Place is an ancient obelisk, a mono lith of granite, the only one executed out of Egypt. It was discovered in 1389, but not set up till 1676, when, in bad taste, it was crowned by a globe of Jicur-de-lis, and dedicated, by inscriptions on its pedestal, to Louis XIV. It is about 50 ft. in height, and being well placed, has an imposing effect. Around the Place Royale are a series of public buildings the Hotel de Ville, an edifice of three stories, decorated with a row of Corinthian pillars, surmounted by a tower, and con taining, on its first story, the public library of about 12,000 volumes ; the museum, occupying the old church of St. Anne; the Gothic monastery of St. Trophimus; and the ancient palace of the archbishops of Aries. The other buildings of note in the town are the cathedral, built by St. Virgilius in the seventh century, adorned without by a fine portico and facade, and within by some fine paintings ; the church of Notro AELESIIEIM 207 ARMAGH Dame, said to have been built on the foundations of a temple of Cybele ; the church of St. Honore", which was founded in the sixth century, and in which a series of ancient frescoes, analogous to those of Pompei, has been recently discovered. The whole town, indeed, abounds in ancient monuments, the most interesting of which is the Roman amphitheatre, which | was fitted to contain 24,000 spectators ; and, both in size j and magnificence, is supposed to have surpassed that of Nisuies. Aries is the chief place of a sous-prefecture, and THE CATHEDRAL, ARLE3, from the Grand Place. From Chapuy, Cathrfraits Francaises. possesses a court of commerce, a chamber of manufactures, an agricultural society, a communal college, and a school of hydrography. Its manufactures, which are not of much im portance, are almost confined to hats and famous sausages. It has also silkmills, and builds some vessels. Its trade is extensive, and gives it, in respect of exports, the fifth place among the ports of France, Aries ranking immediately between Rouen and Nantes. It possesses admirable facilities for trade. Its quays, which are well paved and very spacious, serve as an entrepot for all the merchandise which passes between Lyons and Marseilles. In addition to the Rhone, on which steam-vessels passing Aries regularly ply, two canals terminate in the town, one connecting it with the Durance, and another proceeding S., to the Port de Bouc. To these means of com munication, a valuable accession has recently been made by railways. The great railway which is to pass through Paris, and connect the Mediterranean with the English Channel, has been completed from Aries to Marseilles, while a branch of the same railway proceeds from Aries to Nismes. Aries possesses great historical interest. It is mentioned by Julius Caesar, who, previous to the siege of Marseilles (Massilia), built twelve war-galleys at its port. It was once an arch bishopric, and makes an important figure in ecclesiastical history as the place where several celebrated councils have been held. Its ancient magnificence is still amply attested by numerous remains of splendid edifices. The ARKOXD. of Aries, consisting of eight cantons, subdivided into 33 com munes, has an area of 920 sq. m. Pop. of tn. 14,239 ; of arrond. 85,222. (Diet, de la France.} AKLESHEIM, a small tn. Switzerland, can. of, and about 5 m. S. from the town of Basel, in a fertile district, r. bank, Birs, 1154 ft. above the sea. It is well built, and has some baths, but is chiefly remarkable for its beautiful botanic garden. On a hill close by is situated the ancient castle of Birseck. Pop. 800. ARLES-SUK TECH, a tn. France, dep. Pyre ne es Orientales (Roussillon), 20 m. S.W. Perpignan. It contains an ancient church, the front and portal of which are enriched with curious carvings in white marble. Manufactures : soap, hoops, deals, an:l leather. In the neighbourhood are some iron forges, and, at a short distance, the small fortress and village of Arles-los- Bains, now Amelie-les-Bains, whose hot mineral springs aro much resorted to. Pop. 1939. ARLEY, a par. England, co. Warwick; 2130 ac.; W. by S. Nuneaton. Pop. in 1841, 265. ARLINGHAM, a par. England, co. Gloucester ; 2300 ac.; S.E. Newnham. Pop. in 1841, 793. ARLINGTON, two parishes, England : 1, Co. Devon ; 1890 ac. ; N.E. Barnstaple. Pop. in 1841, 206. 2, Co. Sussex; 4790 ac.; W.S.W. Hailsham. Pop. in 1841, 686. ARLON [anc. Orolanum],a.tn. Belgium, cap. prov. Luxem bourg, 104m. S.E. Brussels, and 15 m. W.N.W. Luxembourg. It has two churches and a chapel ; a townhouse, an hospital, a court of primary jurisdiction, an athenaeum, a school of design, and several initiatory schools. It is the best corn- market in the district. Its manufactures are woollen stuffs for cloaks, leather, and, on a small scale, earthen or delft- wares. The antiquity of Arlon is attested by coins, and in scriptions on several busts of heathen deities, which have been discovered near it. It has frequently suffered by the ravages of war, both in ancient and modern times. Its last disaster was in 1793, when it was pillaged by the French, after the victory which they gained in the neighbourhood over the Austrians. Pop. 4508. ARLSEY, a par. England, co. Bedford; 2370 ac. ; N.W. Baldock. Pop. in 1841, 820. ARM A (SANTIAGO DE-), a tn. New Granada, prov. An- tioquia, on the Arma, a tributary of the Cauca, 71 m. S.S.E. Santa Fe d Antioquia. The climate is very hot. The dis trict produces gold, and all kinds of grain and fruit. ARMACAO, a small tn. Brazil, island of St. Catherine, prov. of that name ; lat. 27 30 S. ; Ion. 48 40 W. There is a whale-fishing establishment here. ARMAGH, an inland co. Ireland, prov. Ulster, having the cos. Down on the E., Louth on the S., Monaghan and Tyrone on the W., and Lough Neagh on the N. It is about 34 m. in length, from N. to S., and in breadth, at the widest part, about 21m. It contains 328,076 ac , of which 265,243 are arable, 35,117 uncultivated, 8996 plantations, 17,942 water, and 778 occupied by towns. The surface, generally, is undulating and flat, excepting in the S.E., where it rises into hills of considerable height, the highest attaining an ele vation of 1893 ft. above the sea. Granite is their principal constituent. In other parts greywacke and slate are the prevalent rocks, while red sandstone predominates along the margin of Lough Neagh. The minerals of this county aro inconsiderable, but they include a very beautiful description of marble, of which there are quarries near Armagh. The soil is, in general, fertile, except in the mountain district. The chief crops are wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and flax. EXTENT OB LAND UNDEE CROPS IN 1847. Wheat. Oats.... Barley. Ben-. .. Kve.... Beans.. Acres, i Acres. 12,216 I Brought, forward, 103,021 88,734 3,972 1,644 322 1,133 Carry forward... 103,021 Potatoes 9,652 Turnips 10,661 MangoJd-wurzel 247 Other green crops 2,585 Flax 6,833 Meadow and clover... 22,492 Total.. .155,491 There are also a great many productive orchards in tha N.E. parts of the county, the greater portion of the produce of which is sent to Belfast, and occasionally to Glasgow. Some dairy cows are kept, and a considerable quantity of butter is made. Cattle, of a small stunted breed, are reared in the mountainous districts ; sheep few and inferior. The weaving of cotton and linen is carried on to some extent, par ticularly the latter, which has long been the staple manufac ture. The farms here are smaller than in any other county in Ireland, running mostly from 2 to 15 ac. ; yet the condition of the lower orders, as regards house-accommodation, is better than in most other parts of the kingdom, their cottages being generally whitewashed, well thatched, clean, and comfortable. In 1845, there were 71 national schools in operation in the county, attended by 7973 children. The whole number attending the various schools, in 1841, was 12,553. The county is divided into eight baronies and 28 parishes, and returns three members to Parliament , two for the county, and one for the city of Armagh. Constituency of the former, in 1849, 1242; of the latter, 753. Principal towns, Armagh ARMAGH 208 ARMENIA und Lurgan (trfrich see}. Top. in 18-11, 232,393; of which, 2 1 1,893 is in the rural, and 20,500 in the civic district, being 511 persons to the sq. m. of arable laud, and 414 to the sq. in. of the entire area of the county. Pop, (1851). 196,085. AUMAGII [anc. Irish, Ardd ifaehe], a city, Ireland, prov. Ulster, cap. of the above co., 70m. N. by W. Dublin, and 33 in. S.W. by S. Belfast, finely situated on the sloping sides of a gentle eminence, the summit of which is crowned by the cathedral. The streets are well laid out. regularly built, and well kept and lighted. Some of them converge towards the cathedral, others ascend in more oblique directions, and are intersected by those of greater magnitude which encircle the town. The houses are of a hard reddish calcareous stone, and generally slated. A number of the public edifices are of hewn limestone, of a vivid colour, and are, for the most part, advantageously situated. The town is well supplied with water, by pipes from a reservoir on an eminence in the neigh bourhood. The most conspicuous and most interesting archi tectural object in the city, is the cathedral. The original edifice is said to have been erected by St. Patrick, in the year 455 ; the present, in 1675 ; it is in the Gothic or pointed style, and in the form of a cross, 183 ft. long, with a tower and spire, the entire height of the latter from the ground to the weather cock being 150 ft. Some years ago it was repaired and beau tified, chiefly at the expense of Lord John G. Beresford, who contributed 10,000 for this purpose. On an eminence N. of the town stands the new R. catholic cathedral, a large and spacious building in the pointed Gothic style. It contains several monuments, but all of comparatively modern date, none of those belonging to the original cathedral being now in existence. There are, besides, a Protestant chapel of ease, a E. catholic chapel, two places of worship for Methodists, three for Presbyterians, and one for Independents. The other public buildings are the county court-house, prison, and infirmary, the district lunatic asylum, which cost 20,000 ; the royal school, styled the college ; a public library, built and endowed by primate Robinson, in 1741, containing 14,000 volumes, some accounts say 20,000 ; a market-house, a brown linen hall, a yarn-hall, and tontine buildings, the last includ ing a spacious news-room ; various hospitals and charitable establishments, and a number of schools, comprising a national and Sunday school. Near the city is the archiepiscopal palace, with a domestic chapel, and extensive and well laid out grounds, open to the public; the mall, a place of public recreation ; an observatory, witli a very superior astronomical apparatus ; and barracks for 800 men. The principal business of the place arises from the retail trade, for the supply of the populous surrounding district, and the weekly market, where a good deal of agricultural produce is sold, as well as the linen made in the neighbourhood. Considerable quantities of corn likewise are sent to Portadown and Newry for exporta tion. There are here a brewery, several tanneries, and flour- mills. There were formerly two distilleries, but they have ceased working. Armagh is the seat of the archiepiscopal see of the primate of all Ireland, whose ecclesiastical province comprises six consolidated dioceses. The city is of great antiquity. In 448, a synod was held in it by St. Patrick, the canons of which, called Canoin Pat- raic, or Patrick s canons, are still extant. They composed the celebrated Book of Armagh, which was considered of such value, that its safe keeping became a hereditary office of dignity in a particular family, who held eight town-lands, as remuneration for the responsibility. In the Middle Ages, it was considered the metropolis of Ireland, and so continued till that distinction was transferred to Dublin. It is still, however, the ecclesiastical metropolis cf the kingdom. It was at one time celebrated for its college, which long continued one of the most famous seminaries in Europe. Armagh has been, at various intervals, from the most remote times, sub jected to some of the worst calamities of war, having been often captured, plundered, and burned, alternately, by Danes, Ostmans, English, Scotch, and, not unfrequently, by the Irish chieftains themselves, when at war with each other. On some of these occasions, numbers of the inhabitants were car ried into captivity by the victors. Armagh returned two mem bers to the Irish Parliament, but sends one only to the British House of Commons. Constituency, 753. Markets are held on Tuesdays 1 or general purposes, and on Wednesdays and Saturdays for grain. The population seems to have been on the decline latterly. In 1834, it was 10,764, of which rather more than one-half were R. catholics; in 1841, it was 10,2 1>. ARMANCON, a river, France, rising in dcp. Cote-d Or, and flowing N.W., parallel, for a considerable distance, to the Bourgognc Canal, which crosses it by a fine aqueduct, it passes Tonnere, and falls into the Yonne, about 3 in. S.E. Joigny, after a course of 112 m., of which about 16 are navi gable. It receives as tributaries the Brenne, Armance, and some other rivulets. ARMENIA, a mountainous country of W. Asia, not now politically existing, but of great historical interest. It varied in extent at different epochs, and its precise boundaries are not now known ; but it may be regarded as lying between lat. 36 50 and 41 41 N., and Ion. 36 20 and 48 40 E. It was sometimes subdivided into First, Second, and Third Armenia, to which a Fourth was afterwards added ; but the division by which it was almost universally known, was into Armenia Major and Armenia Minor, or the Greater and the Less Armenia. The boundaries of each, according to Col. Chesney, the latest authority on the subject, and probably the best, are as follows : Armenia Major, commencing at Sumei- sat, stretches along the Euphrates, which bounds it on the \V., till near Erzingan ; a few miles to the S. of which it quits the river, and keeps the direction of Tarabuzun as far as the moun tains S. of Ghumish Khanah. It proceeds N.E. along this range, then skirts the N. extremity of the district of Kars, and passing onward to near Tiilis, becomes the right bank of the Kur, whose course it follows to its estuary in the Caspian, which now becomes the boundary on the E. Leaving the Caspian, it turns S.W. in the direction of Tabreez, and passes through the districts of Van and Diarbekir, on the frontiers of which it again meets the Euphrates at Sumc i sat. Armenia Minor, or, as it might be called, the territory W. of the Eu phrates, lies along the range of the Kof-tagh, which runs W. almost parallel to the Black Sea, and forms its N. boundary as far as a point on the river Halys or Kizil-Irmak, not far from its estuary in the Black Sea. Armenia Minor follows the course of this river for about 180 m., and continuing S.W. meets the Taurus, which becomes its boundary almost to the sea, near Ayas, on the W. side of the Bay of Iskenderoon. From this point it sweeps round the S. side of the districts of Adana and Marash, and meets the Euphrates; which thus intersects Armenia almost centrally, and forms the natural boundary between the two divisions now described. Armenia Major has nn area of about 84,000 sq. m. ; Armenia Minor, about 70,000. The territory of this once celebrated kingdom is now partitioned among Turkey, Persia, and Russia. The first of these powers possesses the largest share, being that which borders on the Euphrates, and includes the N. part of Diarbekir, with Moosh, Van, and the pashalic of Erzeroom. The share of Persia forms part of Kurdistan, and almost the whole of Azerbijan. The share of Russia forms its govern ment of Armenia. It stretches along the river Aras, and is sometimes known as the district of Erivan. The plateau of which Armenia chiefly consists is mountain ous and volcanic. The ridges, of which there are four prin cipal, are generally parallel to each other, running, with sundry deviations, E. and W., and between them are broad valleys and plateaux ; that of the Aras, at Mount Ararat, being 2890 ft., and many others 5000 to 8000 ft. above the sea level. Tho mountains are mainly composed of trachytic porphyry; with slate, limestone, &c., appearing on the sides of the chains, and sometimes rising up with the porphyry. Granite is also met with, but is not frequent ; and in the N., in the Turkish pro vince of Akalzik, tertiary fossiliferous formation is found. Its volcanoes are all quiescent ; unless we except Ararat, of which an eruption took place in 1840, accompanied by a disastrous earthquake. A few mountains, as Ararat, Alaghez, and Bangb 1-dagh, rise above the line of perpetual snow, but this is not generally the case ; and there are no passes but such as can be crossed in a single day. Silver, lead, iron, and copper are found in the mountains ; and the last two have, to some extent, been wrought in modern times. Rock-salt is plentiful, and is exported, in considerable quantities, to Persia i and elsewhere. Mineral waters abound, but little or nothing is known of their constituents, or of their medicinal qualities. Several important rivers take their rise in Armenia, namely, the Kur or Cyrus, and its tributary the Aras or Araxes, flow ing E. to the Caspian Sea ; the Akampsis or Tchorak, and the ARMENIA 209 ARMENIA Halys or Kizil-Irmak, flowing N. to the Black Sea; and the Tigris and Euphrates, which flow into the Persian Gulf. There are also several minor tributary streams. The only consider able lakes are those of Van, 70 m. in length, and about 28 in breadth ; Goukcha, Sevanga or Sevan, N.E. of Erivan, about 40 m. long by 1 5 broad ; and Urumiyah. The climate of Armenia is very severe, presenting quite a contrast to that of the warm regions of the lower Euphrates, and to the mildness prevalent on the shores of the Black Sea. Any one, indeed, leaving the shores of the Pontus in April, and travelling rapidly S., may in one week experience the delights of the year. On the shore i spring in her most beauteous garb ; . and discomforts of three of the Black Sea he leav on the plateau of Erzeroom he meets stiff, cold winter, and se before him a wide extent of country covered with snow and ice ; in Mesopotamia he finds approaching harvest, and the farmer busy with artificial irrigation to counteract the effects of the burning heat. Winter, in Armenia, continues from October to May, spring and harvest a month each, and the change to summer is very rapid. The heat, especially in the valleys, during summer,, is great, and rain seldom falls. In Erivan, which is a degree of lat. S. from Trebizond, the thermo meter in winter falls 36 Fah. lower than it does in the latter; and in summer it rises 24 Fah. higher. On the plateaux of Erzeroom, Gumri, &c., the difference is still greater ; indeed, in the town of Erzeroom the snow lies in the streets for eight months of the year. E. and S.E. winds in summer, W. winds in spring, and N.E. storm winds in winter, are most prevalent. Though severe, the climate is, however, esteemed healthy. their ruling passion appears to be an inordinate love of gain, but they are generally esteemed honest. Their mental ca pacity is good, and those who are educated are distinguished by superior cultivation and refined manners ; but the mass of the people inhabiting their native country, in consequence of centuries of neglect, are grossly ignorant and superstitious. The Armenians embraced Christianity in the fourth century; and in A.D. 536, separated from the Greek church, being dis satisfied with the decisions of the council of Chalcedon. In doctrine, they hold that there is only one nature in Christ, and that the Holy Spirit proceeded from the Father alone. They have seven sacraments, but, in the mode of using them, differ in several respects from the R. catholics. They adore saints and images, but do not believe in purgatory. Their hierarchy differs little from that of the Greeks. The catJiolicus, patriarch or head of the church, has his seat at Echmiadzin, a monastery near Erivan. A minority of the Armenians, chiefly those residing in European countries, acknowledge the Pope, and conform, in doctrine and church-government, to the R. catholic church. They are called United Armenians. The monastery of Ech miadzin, the seat of the catholicus, or head of the Armenian church, lies in the valley of the Aras, 13 in. E. Erivan, near the village of Vagarhabad, which is also frequent ly, though improperly, called Echmiadzin. The monastery is surrounded by a wall 30 ft. high, en tered by four gates, and flanked by towers, which, as well as the walls, are built of brick, excepting the base, and furnished with loop-holes, giving to the whole structure the appearance of a large quadrangular fortress. The monastery was founded in A.D. 524 ; but the church it contains dates from the time of St. Gregory the en- lightener, who introduced Christianity into Armenia, though various additions have been made to it in later times. The monks have here a printing-press and a seminary ; but little good is to be expected from their labours, as they are un learned, ignorant, and superstitious. In a similar condition are the Armenian clergy in general, which, indeed, is scarcely to be wondered at, when we know that any layman who has been chosen by the congregation, and has passed 14 days in the prescribed fastings and ritual observances of the church, may get ordination from the bishop, and may read mass, baptize, confirm, marry, give extreme unction, and have authority too to forgive sins. (Parrot.) Such a fact makes it easy to understand why ignorance should prevail, and the Bible in the vulgar tongue should be prohibited. Parrot, not knowing Armenian, expected to converse with the monks and priests of Echmiadzin in Latin, but none of them knew either Latin or Greek, though of works, in these languages, there were numbers in the library ; three of them could speak Russian, but all other European languages were unknown. The Armenian language belongs to the most distant off shoots of the Indo-Germanic root ; but still, in its form and structure, has much that is peculiar ; and to the ear it is harsh and dissonant. The old Armenian language, also called Haican, which is that of literature, may now be considered a dead language. In the new Armenian language, which is divided into four dialects not differing greatly from each other, there are many Turkish words, and the construction of sentences is regulated by the rules of Turkish syntax. With exception of some songs preserved by Archbishop Moses Choronensis, no specimens of the earlier Armenian literature have been preserved. After the introduction of Christianity, a great taste for the Greek language and literature arose, and a num- line, and their complexion somewhat swarthy. The women ber of works in Greek and Syriac were translated into Arme- are remarkable for the delicacy and regularity of their feat- I nian. Before A.D. 406, the Armenians had no alphabet of .ires. Like the Jews, whom, in many respects, they resemble, I their own, but used indifferently Greek, Syriac. or Persian VOL. I. 7 PATRIARCHAL CHURCH AND MONASTERY OF KCIIMIADZIN From Duliois, Voyage Autourdu Cuuease. The soil of Armenia is reckoned, on the whole, productive, though in many places it would be quite barren, were it not for the great care taken to irrigate it ; to such an extent indeed is the system of irrigation carried on, that in summer many consider able streams are wholly absorbed. Wheat, barley, tobacco, hemp, grapes, and cotton are raised ; and, in some of the valleys, apricots, peaches, mulberries, and walnuts are grown. From the nature of the country, the rearing of stock is carried on to a greater extent than agriculture. The horses are spirited, fleet, and fiery. Pines, birches, poplars, and beeches flourish, but there are no thick forests except in the N. parts of the country. The flora is not so varied as might be expected in such an Alpine country ; in several respects, it resembles the vegetation of the Alps of Tyrol and Switzerland. The inhabitants are chiefly of the genuine Armenian stock ; but besides them, in consequence of the repeated subjugation of the country, various other races have obtained a footing. Of these the principal are the Turcomans, who still maintain their nomadic habits, and from whom the country has received the name of Turcomania. In the S. portion are the preda tory Kurds and the Turks ; on the Tchorak, Georgians ; and throughout the whole country, Greeks, Jews, and Gypsies. The total number of Armenians has been estimated at 2,000,000, of which probably one-half are in Armenia. The remainder, like the Jews, are scattered over various countries ; and, being strongly addicted to commerce, play an important part as merchants. They are found over all W. Asia ; about 200,000 are in Constantinople and its vicinity; numbers are in Russia, Hungary, and Italy; some in Africa and America ; and a large number in India, chiefly in the great marts Bombay, Madras, and Calcutta. Everywhere they are engaged in banking and trading. In physical structure, they belong to the Caucasian race, and, in general, are well made. Their eyes and hair are black, their look lively, noses aqui- ARMENIA (RUSSIAN) 210 ARNEDO characters. In that year, however, Mesrop Masdoty invented the Haican alphabet, consisting of 38 letters (30 consonants and eight vowels), called, from its inventor, Mesropian, and which still continues to be employed along with the modern alphabet. Armenian literature flourished from the fourth to the 14th century. Of this period, many writers have obtained a name chiefly as historians and chroniclers. Their works, which might throw considerable light on the history of the East during the Middle Ages, have hitherto been little consulted. Armenian literature began to sink in the 14th century, and since that period scarcely any original work of importance has appeared ; but, in all their wanderings, the Armenians have preserved a taste for native literature, and have set up printing-presses wherever they have settled ; so that we find Armenian works printed in Amsterdam, Venice, Leghorn, Lemberg, Moscow, Astrakan, Constantinople, Smyrna, Ech miadzin, Ispahan, Madras, Calcutta, Batavia, &c. The most interesting colony is that on the island of San Lazaro at Ven ice, founded by Abbot Mechitar Pedrosian in 1717, who there established a monastery, academy, and printing-press, whence important Armenian works continue to be issued down to the present time. According to the native historians, the name Armenia is derived from Aram, the seventh king of the first dynasty, who, about B.C. 1800, gave a settled character to the kingdom. The Armenians call themselves Haiks or Haikans, and trace their origin, in their traditions, to Haic or Haico, the father and patriarch of the people, a contemporary of the Assyrian king, Belus. Armenia subsequently fell into the hands of different rulers, and was exposed to many attacks. The Ro mans and Parthians had many fierce conflicts ; but at last, under Trajan, Armenia Major became a Roman province. It afterwards recovered its independence, and was under the rule of its own kings. Sapor, king of Persia, attempted its subjugation in vain, and it remained free until 650, when it was conquered by the Arabians. After this, it several times changed its masters. In 1552, Selim II. conquered it from the Persians, and the greater part has since remained under the Turkish dominion. Armenia Minor ultimately shared the same fate. Of the cities of ancient Armenia, some ruins are yet to be seen, which display a good style in architecture. The chief towns are Erivan, Erzeroom, Nakhichevan, Van, Akalzik, &c. (which see.) Of ancient capitals there were several, the most important of which was Artaxata on the Aras. (Wagner s licise nach dem Ararat; Parrot s Journey to Ararat; Dubois, Voi/age autour du Caucase; Conversations Lexikon,, Brockhaus, 9th Edition.) ARMENIA (RUSSIAN), a trans-Caucasian gov. Russia, comprising that part of Armenia S. of Georgia, and N. of the Aras and Mount Ararat, and comprehending the monastery of Echmiadzin. It was ceded to Russia, in 1827, by Persia, of which it formed the province of Erivan a name by which it is still sometimes designated. ARMEN1ERSTADT, or SZAMOS UJVAR [Latin, Armeno- polis], a tn. Austria, in Transylvania, 22 m. N.N.E. Klausen- burg ; lat. 47 N. ; Ion. 23 52 E. It is well and regularly built, and the streets spacious, and tolerably straight. It contains a neat Armenian church, an Armenian school, and an orphan hospital ; and is defended by a strong castle. The inhabitants are mostly employed in weaving and in cattle- dealing A considerable transit trade is carried on with the interior. In the vicinity are salt springs and salt mines. Pop. 3000. ARMENT, ERMENT, or HERMONT [anc. Hermonthis], a vil. Upper Egypt, 1. bank, Nile, about 8 m. S.W. Thebes. It was the capital of the Hermonthite nome ; and in Christian times it was an episcopal see. Apollo and Jupiter, corre sponding to the Egyptian Mandoo and Amun ; the goddess Rato, and the sacred bull Basis, were here objects of worship. Its modern inhabitants regard it as the birthplace of Moses. ARMENT] EKES [Latin, Armentaria], a tn. France, dep. Nord, on the Belgian frontier, 10 m. W.N.W. Lille, on the Lys, which has here a small harbour, and an active navi gation. The town, which is well built, has a communal col lege or high school ; with factories for spinning flax, hemp, and cotton yarn. There are also manufactories of woollen cloth, table linen, calicoes, lace, thread, beet-root sugar, and tobacco ; bleachfields, distilleries, soapworks, tanneries, and salt-refineries; with a considerable trade in grain, brandy, iron, tobacco, soap, &c. Bricks are made in the neighbourhood in large quantities. Pop. 6675. ARMENTO, a tn. Naples, prov. Basilicata, 26 m. S.S.E. Potenza, on the declivity of a rock. It has two monts-dc-picte. Pop. 2570. ARMIANSKOI BAZAR, or BAZAR OF THE ARMENIANS, a large vil., S. Russia, gov. Taurida; lat. 46 7 N.; Ion. 33 43 E.; 81 m. S.E. by E. Kherson, and 85 m. N. by E. Simferopol ; situated on the Isthmus of Perekop, about 2 in. S. of that town, on the principal road from Russia to the Krimea. It consists of numerous narrow lanes, lined with houses built of stone, or of turf plastered over, and enclosed by walls, which form the boundaries of the streets. It has altogether a filthy and mean appearance ; but contains numer ous bazaars, several mosques with wooden minarets, a Greek temple, and a Russo-Greek church, for the worship of the Tatars, Armenians, and Russians, who compose its popula tion. Upwards of 20,000 cart-loads of salt from the salt-lakes of the Krimea, pass annually, during summer, through the village, for the supply of the S. of Russia. ARMINGII ALL, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 900 ac. P. 79. AKMITAGE, par. Eng. Stafford ; 1950 ac. P. 987 ARMLEY, a chapelry and vil., England, co. York, bor. and 2 m. S.W. Leeds, on the Aire, with a jail, house of cor rection, an Episcopal and several Dissenting chapels. It is an important seat of the woollen manufactures, chiefly carried on for the Leeds market. Pop. (1851), 6108. ARMOY, par. Irel. Antrim; 9665 ac. P. 2766. AUMTHORPE, par. Eng. York (W. R.); 2810 ac. P. 449. ARNA. 1, A tn. on the W. limits of the Libyan desert, r. bank, Kuku, 420 m. N.E. from Lake Tchad. Its precise position, however, is not ascertained. Arrowsmith places it in lat. 17 13 N. ; Ion. 21 30 E., with a query ; and Kicpert, in lat. 18 20 N. ; Ion. 21 40 E., with a similar expression of doubt. 2, A vil. Grecian Archipelago, on the N.W. shore of the isl. of Andros. ARNAOUTS. See ALBANIA. ARNAU, or RIESENSTADT, a tn. Bohemia, 1. bank, Elbe, about 25 m. from its source, and 23 m. N. Koniggriitz. It is walled ; and has a castle, deanery, hospital, townhouse, and Franciscan monastery. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in weaving. Pop. 1439. The lordship of which Arnau is the capital lies along the Elbe, is well wooded, and rears a considerable number of cattle. The inhabitants, employed chiefly in spinning and weaving, are 10,314. ARNAY-LE-DUC [anc. Arnceum], a tn. France, dep. Cote- d Or (Burgundy), 30 m. S.W. Dijon, agreeably situated near the Arroux. It is well built and well paved; and has a high school, manufactures of cloth and starch, tanneries, tile- works, corn and fulling-mills. Its trade is in cattle, grain, wine, vinegar, hemp, wool, leather, horse hair, and poultry. Near this town Admiral Coligny, the celebrated leader of the Huguenots, under whom Henry IV. was then making his first campaign, in 1570, gained a victory over Marshal Cosse- Brissac. Pop. 2331. ARNCL1FFE, a par. England, co. York, W. Riding; 35,860 ac. ; N.E. Settle. Pop. in 1841, 834. ARNE, a par. England, co. Dorset ; 2450 ac. ; E. Ware ham, on the coast. Pop. in 1841, 168. ARNEBURG, a tn. Prussia, gov. of, and 40 m. N. from Magdeburg, 1. bank, Elbe. It was well fortified, but few of its defences remain ; though it is still walled, and has three gates. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in agriculture. Their position on the Elbe enables them to carry on a considerable corn trade. Pop. 1500. ARNEDO, a city, Spain, Old Castile, prov. of, and 27 in. S.E. from Logroiio, near the 1. bank of the Cidacos, an affluent of the Ebro, on a gentle declivity, surrounded by mountains. It has level paved streets, a spacious square, three parish churches, a townhall, several schools, a large hospital, prison, granary, cemetery, and a beautiful paseo, close to which a stone bridge spans the river. On the top of a neighbouring hill stands an ancient castle, recently repaired and fortified, and now containing a barracks. Agriculture, weaving linen fabrics, and distilling brandy, employ the inhabitants. At some seasons of the year great numbers are engaged as mule teers. Considerable numbers of cattle are reared in tli ; vicinity ; for which, and various descriptions of merchandise, two annual fairs are held. Pop. 3345. ARNEB 211 ARNSTAUT ARNEE, or ARANI, a tn. Ilindoostan, in the Camatic, 80 m. W.S. W. Madras ; lat. 12 40 N.; Ion. 79 20 E. It has a fortress, in which Hyder-Ali deposited his warlike stores during his invasion of the Carnatic, in 1782. ARNEMUIDEN, a small tn. Holland, isl. of Walachern, prov. Zeeland, 3 m. E. Middelburg. It has a townhall, a custom-house, and a Calvinistic church; but is very much fallen off in its condition. Formerly it was a place of con siderable importance, as a port and a place of trade. Its haven was at all times filled with vessels from every part of the world. In 1496, the Spanish princess Johanna, bride of Philip the Beautiful, .arrived here with 135 vessels; and, in 1522, upwards of 150 vessels left this port to fetch Emperor Charles V. from England. Its harbour is now dried up, its commerce is gone, and it can only communicate with the sea by means of a canal. Pop. 1200. ARNES13Y, a par. England, co. Leicester; 1510 ac. Pop. in 1841, 505. ARNGASK, a par. Scotland, co. Perth; 6116 ac. Pop. in 1841, 750. ARNHEM or AKNHEIM, an old important and prosperous tn. Holland, cap. arrond. and can. of same name, prov. and cap. Gelderland, 10 m. N. Nymegen, and 34 m. E.S.E. Utrecht, on a rising ground, r. bank, Rhine, about 2 m. be low where it receives the Ijsscl. It is the seat of the pro vincial court, of the court of the arrondissement and canton, and of a tribunal of commerce. The town was fortified, and the defences were improved in 1702, by Coehorn, and it still has several gates ; but, during the reign of William I., it was dismantled, and its ramparts are now public promenades. It is built in the form of a crescent facing the Rhine, which is here crossed by a bridge of boats. The environs are pleasant, the town being surrounded by an undulating country called the Veluwe, by parks, villas, and pleasure-gardens, and the air is pure ; on these accounts, it is much frequented during summer by visitors. The town, which is rapidly increasing, has a townhall, Government-house, courthouse for the province, weigh-house, barracks for 2000 men, civil and military prison, and two squares, one of which is the corn-market, and a fish- market. It has also two Calvinistic, a handsome Lutheran, and two R. catholic churches ; four hospitals for decayed persons and for the sick ; two orphan hospitals, and one for widows ; numerous schools, among which there is one of design and architecture ; and a natural history and literary society. The principal business in Arnhem is the transit trade along the Rhine, and connecting streams and canals, to Amsterdam, Rot terdam, Amersfoort, Utrecht, &c., and the grain trade. It also possesses some manufactures in earthenware, soap, cotton, wool-combing, and dyeing, and has oil and bark-mills. After Lent it has a fair for 14 days, and in August another for eight days, two horse markets and numerous cattle-markets. Arnhem withstood successfully all the attacks of the Spaniards. In 1586, Sir Philip Sydney died there from a wound received in the battle of Zutphen. In 1795, it was taken by storm by the French, who were driven from it by the Prussians in November 1813. It has suffered severely several times by fire. Pop. about 15,000. (Van der Aa s Nederlanden.} ARNHEM S LAND, the middle portion of the N. coast of Australia, lying W. of the Gulf of Carpentaria. Its limits are not well defined, but it may be considered as N. of lat. 14 S., and as having for its E. limit Groote Eylandt or Island, and for its W. Melville and Bathurst Islands. The whole coast is skirted by isles and islets, of which those named are the largest. It was discovered in 1623, by the commanders of the Arnhem and Pera, but is still imperfectly known. On Coburg peninsula was the Government station, Port Essington, now abandoned. The coasts are low, the rocks being loose sand with ferruginous concretions, and not esteemed healthy. In some parts it is well wooded, in others thinly wooded. A table-land 3000 to 4000 ft. high, lies between Ion. 132 and 134 E., and about lat. 13 S., composed mainly of granite. The district is watered by the rivers Adelaide, S. and E. Ali- gator, and Liverpool. ARNHEM BAY, N.E. coast, Arnhem s Land, between point Dule, lat. 11 36 S. ; Ion. 136 7 E. (R.), and Cape Wilberforce, lat. 11 53 S.; Ion. 136 34 E. (R.) ; 40 m. broad at its mouth, 20 m. at its upper end, and about 50 m. deep. It is obstructed by numerous coral islands, and Rt its mouth are the W isel and Engl ish Company s Islands. CAPE ARNHEM, the N.W. point of the Gulf of Carpentaria, lat. 12 17 S.; Ion. 137 E. (R.) ARNO [anc. Arnus], a river, Tuscany, one of the largest in Italy, having its sources in the Apennines in Monte Fal- terone, and Apennino dell Penna, the former about 5 m. N.E. the village of Ponticelli. After the junction of the two sources, the river flows S.S.E. till it receives the Chiana Canal 6 m. N.W. Arezzo, whence it flows N.W. to Pontassieve, where it receives from the right the river Sieve, after which its course is W., passing through Florence, where it becomes navigable, and Pisa, beyond which, about 7 m., it falls into the Mediterranean, after a course of about 155 in. By a canal from Pisa to Leghorn, the difficult navigation of the lower part of the river is avoided. Besides the affluents named, the Arno receives the Greve, the Pesa, the Era, and the Elsa. Its source is 4429 ft. above the sea level ; at Figline, the level of the river is 387 ft. above the sea, and at Florence, 50 m. from its embouchure, it is 144 ft. above the sea level. ARNOLD, a vil. and par. England, co. of, and 4 in. N. by E. Nottingham. The village, which is about three quar ters of a mile long, stands near Harwood forest, and has a church, three dissenting chapels, and an endowed free school. An annual cattle-fair is held at the end of September. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in cotton-mills and weaving hosiery. Area of par. 4670 ac. Pop. 4509. ARNON, a rivur, France, an affluent of the Cher, into which it falls near Vierzou, in tlie department of Cher, after a N.N. W. course of 84 m. ARNSBERG, or ARENSBERG, the most S. of the three govs. into which the prov. of Prussian Westphalia is divided ; area, about 2250 geo. sq. m. It contains 55 towns, and 3420 villages, with a pop. of half a million, being 250 persons per geo. sq. m. Of these 350,000 are Protestants, 4000 Jews, 100 Mennonites, and the remainder R. catholics. The sur face is hilly, particularly in the S. division, but none of the mountains are of great height ; the highest, Hunan, belong ing to the Hochgebirge, on the confines of Westphalia and Wittgenstein, not being more than 2600 ft. above the level of the sea. Arnsberg is watered by the Lippe, Ruhr, Lenn, Eder, Lahn, Sieg, Dimel, Emsche, Wupper, Volme, and Ennepe, and belongs almost wholly to the basin of the Rhine ; only a small portion along the E. boundary belonging to that of the Weser. About a fifth of the whole government is woodland. In particular, the forest of Arnsberg occupying an elevated tract from 700 to 900 ft. above the sea, stretches from E. to W. for 7 m. The soil is generally of a clayey texture, and by no means fertile. Sometimes, however, as in Arnsberg proper, it has a substratum of limestone, and is productive. The best soil is in the mountain valleys towards the S. ; while N., between the Lippe and Hellweg, lies a flat, rich, and well- cultivated tract of a marly nature, on which great numbers of cattle are reared. But minerals and the productions of the loom, are the great staples of Arnsberg, and give it a prominent place among the industrial districts of Germany. Among the former are iron, copper, lead, silver, and calamine. Coal also is raised to a considerable extent, and there are numerous quarries both of slate and marble. The GOVERN MENT of Arnsberg is divided into 14 circles Altena, Arns berg, Brillon, Bochum, Dortmund, Hagen, Hamm, Iserlohcn, Lippstadt, Meschede, Olpe, Siegen, Soest, and Wittgenstein. Of these, in point both of romantic beauty and manufactures, Arnsberg proper appears to take the lead. 1 1 has seven towns, 121 villages, and about 30,000 inhabitants. ARNSBERG, cap. both of the above circle and gov., and at one time cap. of the whole duchy of Westphalia, on the spur of a hill half encircled by the Ruhr, and immediately be low the ruins of an old castle of the same name, 44 m. S.S.E. Miinster. It is divided into the old and the new town, and has three churches (one Protestant and two R. catholic), a normal and an agricultural school, and a gymnasium with eight professors. In the Middle Ages, Arnsberg was one of the principal seats of the Vehmic court [Vehm-gericht], which exercised a powerful sway throughout Germany. Pop. 4000. ARNSTADT, a picturesquely-situated and well built tn. Germany, in the principality of Schwarzburg-Sondershausen, cap. seigniory of same name, 11 m. S. by W. Erfurt, upon the Gera, which divides it into two parts; lat. 50 49 N. ; Ion. 10 57 E. It has an old palace, almost entirely in ruins ; seve ral churches, of which the Frauenkirche, dating from 972, has ARNSTEIN 212 ARPINO fine painted windows, and several old sculptures; a nunnery, now converted into the residence of the prince ; a Franciscan monastery, now become a school-house and parsonage ; a gymnasium, a normal school, a cabinet of natural history, an orphan hospital, a lunatic asylum, and a house of correction. Manufactures: cotton, linen, and woollen stuffs, ribbons, and leather. There are also breweries, stucco, fulling, flour and paper-mills. Arnstadt is one of the best markets in Thuringia for grain, timber, and fruit ; and has also a consider able trade in wool, peltry, and colonial produce. Pop. 5000. ARNSTEIN, a tn. Bavaria, circle, Lower Main, on the slope of a hill near the Werpe, 16 m. N.N.W. Wtirzburg. It contains two churches, an hospital, and a castle ; and an oil, a stucco, and four corn-mills. Its trade is in wine, fruit, and grain. The historian Schmidt was born here. Pop. about 1500. ARNSWALDE, a tn. Prussia, prov. Brandenburg, gov. Frankfort-on the-Oder; 39 m. S.E. Stettin; situated between three lakes, which abound in fish. It has some cloth manu factures. Pop. 4000. AROA, a small tn. Venezuela, prov. Carabobo, about 3 m. from the r. bank of the Aroa, 30 m. from the Gulf of Tristc, on the Caribbean Sea, and 15 m. N. San Felipe; lat. 10 30 0" N. ; Ion. 68 55" W. The river rises in a sierra about 50 m. S.S.W. the town, and, after a course of 80 m. in a N.N.E. direction, falls into the Gulf of Triste, in its course fertilizing a large valley. At a distance of about 10 m. from the town, S.S.W., is a range of hills called by the same name ; namely, the sierra Aroa. AROCHE, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 48 m. N. from Huelva, on the S. slope of the sierra Morena, irregularly built, and partly surrounded by old walls; having a church, hospital, townhall, custom-house, and prison. The inhabitants are chiefly agricultural, and hold a fair in August for cattle and the produce of the neighbourhood. Pop. 2700. AROHA, a range of basaltic hills, New Ulster, the N. isl. of New Zealand, on the E. coast. It commences about lat. 37 52 S., stretches N., and terminates at Cape Colville or Moe-hao, a distance of 110 m. The hills composing this range are covered with wood. AROK-SZALLAS, a privileged market tn. Hungary, on the small stream Gyongoys-Patak, which almost encircles the plain on which the town stands. It is on the high road from Kaschau to Pesth, from which it is 42 m. E.N.E. It is ill supplied with good water, but the ground around is fertile, and considerable numbers of sheep and cattle are reared. Pop. 9106. AROLSEN, a city, W. Germany, cap. of the principality of Waldeck, and seat of the gov., on the Aar, 12 m. N. Waldcck; lat. 51 23 N. ; Ion. 8 55 E. It is well built, and has a handsome palace, the residence of the Princes of Waldeck, containing a gallery of paintings, a cabinet of coins and medals, a valuable museum of antiquities from Herculaneum and Pompeii, and a library of 30,000 volumes. The town possesses three churches and a grammar-school ; with manu factures of worsted and woollen stuffs, and iron-ware, tan neries, &c. Its yearly market is numerously attended. The country around is well wooded. Pop. 2000. ARONA, a tn. Piedmont, prov. Novara, delightfully situated on the W. shore of the Lago Maggiore, and near its S. extremity, 38 m. N.W. Milan. It is a neat and bustling little town, carrying on a considerable transit trade between Piedmont arid Switzerland, and having a small harbour on the lake, with several shipbuilding yards. It has four churches, a gymnasium, an hospital, and an old castle, in which was born the famous Carolus Borromoeus, who has been canonized, and in whose honour a colossal statue was erected in 1G97. This statue, which is situated on a hill above the town, called Monte di San Carlo, is 66 ft. high, and the pedestal 46 ft. A staircase winds through the figure. The head, hands, and feet are cast, and the body made of large ttones, covered with sheets of hammered copper. The work was executed by Zanelli and Falconi, and is reckoned a highly meritorious performance. Pop. 5000. AROSA (BAY OF), Spain, Galicia, W. coast, about 5 m. S.E. Cape Corrobedo, and 16 m. S.E. Cape Finisterre; lat. 42 30 N.; Ion. 8 50 W. Dangerous place for vessels of all kinds AROSBAJA, a market tn., N.W. coast, isl. Madura, Indian Archipelago. It is a large, prosperous, well-built town, with two Mahometan temples, and two large market places. It carries on with Java a considerable trade, to the prosperity of which the roomy haven on which the town is situated greatly contributes. (Van der Aa.) AROUAT (L-), a tn., N. Africa, cap. khalifat of same name, in the Sahara, lying about 300m. inland ; lat. 33 48 N.; Ion. 1 38 E. It is built on the N. and E. slopes of a hill, at the foot of which flows the Wady-Mzi, and is composed of from 700 to 800 houses, surrounded by a wall, forming nearly a square. It is divided into the E. and W. quarters, each of which forms a separate, and often adverse jurisdiction. In the former reside the Wled-Sewin, in the latter the Hallaf people ; these last having also a dependent village population. The houses are mostly low, whitewashed, and ranged on terraces rudely faced with masonry. There are two market places, or more ; and an area, surrounded by arcades, which serves traders for an exchange. The people are industrious, many of them being smiths, armourers, c., who display their implements in public stores ; and shops, of a miscellaneous kind, are numerous. Fifteen or twenty Jewish families are em ployed as wool-dressers, dyers, trinket-makers, &c. The chief articles of native traffic are sheep, wool, oil, grain, butter, cheese, and negro slaves ; mostly exchanged for garments, cutlery, agricultural implements, iron wares, essences, spices, sugar, coffee, glass, small wares, women s trinkets, &c. Be sides being a thriving race, the people are reputed to be kind to their poor, and hospitable to strangers. In the environs are large gardens and plantations, watered by the Wady Lakhir, in which grow dates, vines, cucumbers, water-melons, onions, &c., in large quantities. There are fine forests on the neighbouring hills. The KHALIFAT of El-Arouat is an ancient jurisdiction, was alternately dependent on Morocco and Turkey, and, before the French invasion, paid a yearly tribute of seven negroes to the dey of Algiers. Its possession was confirmed to the present khalif by the French, in 1844-5. It is bounded, N. by Jebel Amour, E. by the territory of Wled- Nail tribe, S. by that of the Beni Mzabs, W. by that of El- Arouat Ksal tribe. It comprises the following towns and villages El-Outaia, Tadjemout, El-Haita, El-Assafia, Ain Madi, and Ksir-el-llaeran. The people comprehend three tribes, namely, Arbas (the most numerous), the Wled-Sidi Atallahs, and the Arazlias. (Sahara Algerien.) AROUBA, an isl. at the mouth of the Gulf of Maracaybo, belonging to the Dutch. See URABA. AROUCA, a tn. Portugal, prov. Douro, dist. Feira, situated among mountains of granite, 28 m. S.W. Lamego. It has a poorhouse, a Latin school, and a celebrated Bernardino monastery. A considerable quantity of linen thread, cele brated for its whiteness, is spun here. Pop. 2515. AROUNDOU, a vil., W. Africa, 1. bank, Senegal, in the Galam country; lat. 14 50 N.; Ion. 13 14 W. It is situ ated 5 m. S.E. Bakel, opposite Diogountrou. ARPAIA, a vil. Naples, prov. Principato Ultra, about 2 m. E. Arienzo, between Capua and Benevcnto ; supposed to have been the site of the anc. Cuudium, where, in the year oil B.C., a Roman army was compelled to lay down arms to the Samnites; but other authority places the scene of that famous disaster in a defile near Avellino, a little to the N. of Arpaia, celebrated as the Furcce Caudince. ARPAJON. 1, A tn. [formerly CMtres], France, dep. Seine-et-Oise, 20 m. S. Paris, in a fertile valley, at the con fluence of the Orge and the Remarde; is surrounded by trees and shady walks, and has a large market-hall. The parish church is large, but not of great antiquity. The Hotel Dieu, an ancient endowment, is well managed. In the town are tan-pits, cotton-works, and breweries ; and some trade is carried on in grain, flour, poultry, pigs, calves, &c. The Marolles station of the Paris and Orleans Eailway is about 1 m. from Arpajon. Pop. 2017. 2, A vil. and com., dep. Cantal (Auvergne), 2 m. S.S.E. Aurillac; with tile-works and lime-kilns. Pop. 2331. ARP1NO [anc. Arjnnum], a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, dist. of, and 6 m. S.W. from Sora ; agreeably situated on rising ground. It has a royal college, with six professors, several churches and convents, and manufactories of cloths and woollen stuffs, the best in the kingdom ; also tanneries, and in the environs is an extensive paper-mill. It was founded by the Volsci, and erected into a municipal town by the ARQUA 213 ARRAN Romans, who wrested it from the Samnites. Arpino is cele brated as having been the birthplace of Caius Marius and (Cicero. The surrounding scenery is singularly beautiful. Pop. 11,060. ARQUA, two villages, Venetian Lombardy: 1, Delega tion of, and 5 m. S.W. from Eovigo, on the canal of Castag- naro. It has un old dilapidated fortress, surrounded by walls and ditches, built in 1129, by Guillaume Alardien. Silk culture and cattle-rearing are carried on. Pop. 3000. 2, ARQUA, or ARQUATO [Latin, Arquatum], Delegation of, and 12 m. S.W. from Padua, dist. Battaglia; pleasantly situated in the bosom of the Euganean hills. Here the poet Petrarch spent the latter years of his life, and (July 18, 1374) died. Pop. 1200. ARQUA, a tn. Mexico, state Zacatecas, formerly pros perous, but now falling into decay. It was well built, and contained numerous squares and churches. Pop. about 4000. ARQUENNES, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. Hainault, dist. of, and about 18 m. N.W. from Charleroi. It has stone quarries, and iron forges. Pop. 1675. ARQUES, a small river, France, dep. Seine-Inferieure, rising at Monterollier, 6 m. S.E. St. Saen, and falling into the English Channel at Dieppe. Its whole course, which is from S.S.E. to N.N.E., is 33 m. ; and of these, 6 m. below the town of Arques are navigable. ARQUES [Latin, Area, Arquai].!, A tn. France, dep. Seine-Infe rieure (Normandy), 3 m. S.S.E. Dieppe; 31 m. N.N. W. Rouen, in a beautiful valley, on the small river of the same name. It has a handsome parish church, with a cotton manufactory, and tanneries. Although now a mere village, Arques was, during the Middle Ages, the principal bulwark of Normandy on the N. Its castle, now in ruins, is cele brated for the number of sieges which it sustained, and espe cially for the victory gained beneath its walls in 1589, by Henry IV., with 4000 Huguenots, over the army of the League, amounting to 30,000 men, commanded by the Duke de Mayenne. Pop. 810. 2, A tn., dep. Pas-de-Calais, near St. Omer; has a manufactory of starch, glassworks, distil leries, and tanneries. Pop. 1854. Several other small places in France bear the same name. ARRACAN. See AEACAN. ARRAIOLOS, or ARROYOLOS, a tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Alemtejo, dist. Estremoz ; on a hill of granite 14 m. N.N.W. Evora. It is not walled, but is defended by a castle, and contains a church, two monasteries, and an hospital. It has a manufacture of carpets and tapestry, and an annual fair, which lasts three days. Pop. 1473. ARRAJAN, or ARREJAN, an anc. tn. Persia, now in ruins, prov. Khuzistan, on both sides of the Kurdistan, about 1 m. N.W. Babahan or Behbeha n, and 135 m. N.W. Shiraz; lat. 30 23 N. ; Ion. 50 40 E. The ruins, which consist of the remains of stone and brick buildings, lie scattered along the lofty banks of the river, mostly on the left shore ; but also on the declivities of the bank, and partly along the nar row strip of land which separates the bed of the stream from its S. embankment. The houses appear to have been but of one story, with vaulted roofs. Both sides of the town were united by two bridges of magnificent dimensions, as their remains, and the eulogiums of ancient Arab travellers would indicate. (Baron C. A. De Bode s Travels in Laristan and Arabistan.) ARRAN, an isl., W. coast, Scotland, Frith of Clyde, co. Bute, between the peninsula of Cantyre and the coast of Ayr shire. It is 20 m. in length, N. to S., and about 10 m. in breadth. Its appearance is very remarkable, the N. part being crowded with lofty granitic mountains of a conical form, connected by sharp, serrated ridges, and intersected by deep gulleys and ravines. The highest summit, Goatfell, is 2900 ft. in height. The S. portion is composed of undulating hilly ground, sloping gently towards the sea, and presenting, in its cultivated fields and bright patches of verdure, a singular contrast to the ruggedness and sterility which characterizes I the N. half of the island. The prevailing line of coast is low, I but in many places steep and rocky ; and is indented with several bays and harbours, the principal of which, Lamlash, on the E. side, is considered one of the best in the W. of Scotland. At the N. extremity of the island is a high isolated mass of new red sandstone rock, called the Cock of Arran, from a real or fancied resemblance to that bird, and which forms a well known sea-mark. On the small islet of Pladda, off the S. end of the island, and distant from it somewhat less than a mile, there is a lighthouse, with two fixed lights. The interior of the island, as well as the coast, abounds in remark able and varied scenery, some of it wild and savage, somo more bland and picturesque. It was at one time covered in many places with extensive forests, which have now wholly disappeared, and with them nearly all the animals of the | chase, by which they were inhabited. The geology and min eralogy of Arran have attracted much attention. The island is divided into two parts, by a band crossing its centre behind the village of Brodick, composed of old red sandstone. N. of this line, the whole interior of the island is composed of granite, with a margin of mica and clay-slate, excepting on the E. coast, where the latter is formed, in part, of old red sandstone, and the carboniferous series. S. of this line, the island is composed almost wholly of trap, sienite, porphyry, and other unstratified rocks, with a narrow margin on the E. coast of new red sandstone; and on the S. and W., of alluvium and old red sandstone, with here and there patches of the carboniferous series. The island contains coal, free stone, slate, limestone, and ironstone. Rock-crystals, of a beautiful description, are found in the granitic mountains; and an extensive vein of sulphate of barytes is now, and has been for some years, successfully wrought in Glen Sannox. Though the hills generally present a scant vegetation, with few attrac tions for the botanist, the same cannot be said of the low grounds near the shore, where is a rich growth, including numerous beautiful species of plants, many of them of rare occurrence ; and within tide-mark are to be found numerous beautiful, and many rare algae. The soil on the E. side of the island is in general light, but varies greatly in the valleys, which are of considerable extent. On the W. side, the arable land is chiefly confined to the vicinity of the sea-coast. The principal crops are oats, barley, and potatoes. The whole rural economy of the island has been greatly improved of late years ; and the condition of both the larger farmers and smaller tenants much advanced, particularly in their domestic accommodation, the houses of the former being similar to those of the same class in other parts of the country, and the latter greatly superior, both in appearance and comfort, to those they occupied 20 years ago. The average rent of land is about 1 per acre. Considerable numbers of black cattle and sheep are reared on the hills, the former chiefly of the Highland Argyleshire breed ; the latter are of the black-faced kind, and are diminutive in size, but take on flesh readily, and afford excellent mutton. In dairy husbandry, the small tenants, though still far behind, are rapidly improving. The larger fauna of the island presents little variety, compre hending only hares and rabbits, both of which are plentiful ; some wild cats ; the brown rat, which is very destructive ; and a few deer, now to be seen only in the most retired recesses of the mountains. Ifoes, wild boars, and foxes, were formerly numerous, but have been long extirpated. Seals and otters are occasionally seen along the shores. Black game and grouse abound, and ptarmigan are sometimes met with on the summits of the mountains. Several species of snakes are found in the woods, glens, and moorlands. The sea around the island abounds in fish, molluscs, zoophytes, and other marine animals, of numerous species. And the entomologist, no less than the geologist, botanist, or ichthyologist, may obtain a rich harvest in this delightful island. There are here numerous relics of antiquity, including Danish forts. Druidical circles, high, erect columns of unhewn stone, cairns, and sepulchral piles, within which are usually found urns enclosing ashes. In this island Robert Bruce and some of his followers found shelter during a season of adversity ; a cave, called King s Cave, at j Drumidoon, on the W. side of the island, being pointed out by tradition as the place of his retreat and residence. On the walls of this cave there is a rudely-cut hunting scene, said to have been done by some of the followers of the fugitive monarch. Tradition asserts, also, that it was from the battle ments of Brodick Castle, an ancient fortress, situated on an acclivity overlooking Brodick Bay, that Bruce saw the light on Turnberry-nook, on the opposite coast, which, taking for a preconcerted signal, induced him to cross to the mainland. The celebrated Celtic bard, Ossian, is said to have died here. The inhabitants of Arran are tall, strong, and remarkably well formed. They are distinguished for sound sense, activity, ARRAN (NORTH ISLAND 01^ 214 ARRECIFE and enterprise. They are frugal and temperate, and, on the whole, of excellent religious and moral character. Gaelic is the prevailing language, though English is very generally understood. There are a number of good schools in the island ; and a universal desire exists among the people to have their children taught at least the elementary branches of education. The yearly rental of the island, which belongs almost wholly to the Duke of Hamilton, is from 11,000 to 1 2,000 a year. It is divided longitudinally into two parishes, Kilbride and Kilmorie, the one comprising the E., the other the W. side of the island. The receipt and expenditure for the relief and management of the poor, for the year ending May 14, 1847, was Kilbride par. (pop. 2786), receipt, 164, 3s. 11JA; expenditure, 168, 18s.: Kilmorie par. (pop. 3455), receipt, 131, 9s. 4cl. ; expenditure, 130. Total receipt, 205, 13.?. 3J.; total expenditure, 298, 18s. Brodick is the principal village. Total pop. in (1851), 5,947. ARRAN (NORTH ISLAND OF), the largest of the group of islands called the Rosses, lying off the N.W. coast of Ireland, co. Donegal; area, 4335 ac., of which 650 are under cultiva tion and in pasture ; lat. (X. VV. point) oo" 1 24" N.; Ion. 8 34 W. (R.) It is about 3 m. long, and 2 broad. Arran more, the highest peak, rises 745 ft. above the level of the sea. The inhabitants chiefly subsist by fishing. On the N. point of the island is a lighthouse, exhibiting a fixed bright light. There is a small R. catholic chapel on the island. Pop. about 1000. ARRAN (SOUTH ISLANDS OF), a group of islands, W. coast, Ireland, at the mouth of Galway Bay, co. Galway. The largest, Arranmore, Great Arran, Killane or Inishmore, is 8 J m. long, and about 3 broad at the broadest part ; and con tains 7635 ac., including two small islands at its N.W. ex tremity, called the Branach Isles. Pop. 2592. On the S. side of this island is a lighthouse, 490 ft. above the sea, and visible at a distance of 24 to 27 m.; lat. 53 7 36" N.; Ion. 9 42 15" W. (R.) The middle island, Inishmaan, 3 m. long by 2 broad, contains 2252 ac. Pop. 473. And the most E., Inisheer, 2 m. long by 1 broad, 1400 ac. Pop. 456. The three islands form three separate parishes, in the diocese of Tuam, and union of Ballinakill. There are also included in the group, the small rocky isles called Straw Island, and Illane-Earhach or the Western Isle. Arranmore yields good oats ; and on it the most esteemed calves in the county are reared. The coasts abound with great variety of fish, in catching which, and in agriculture, the inhabitants are chiefly employed. A pier, 245 ft. long, with a landing-quay, 326 ft. in extent, was erected by the late Board of Commissioners for the Irish Fisheries at the village of Killeany, on this island, where 100 vessels of 40 tons burden may ride in safety. Pop. of Killeany, 604. To the port belong 41 open boats, and 17 row-boats. The islanders use also a boat called a currayh, made of osiers, and covered with tamied canvas, and provided with a rudder. Their language is Celtic, and their costume peculiar, including a kind of boot made of untanned leather. The N.E. coasts of these islands present a sloping shingly beach ; hut on the S. and W. are dark and rugged rocky cliffs, abounding with sea-fowl. On the S. Arran Islands are found antiquities of various kinds ; and on Arranmore there are said, at one time, to have been 10 churches, on the other islands five. ARRAS [anc. Nemetacum~\, a tn. France, cap. dap, Pas- de-Calais (Artois), in the middle of an extensive and fertile plain, r. bank, Scarpe, which here becomes navigable. It was strongly fortified by Vauban; and stands partly on a declivity, and partly on a flat, and consists of four parts, the city, the high town, the low town, and the citadel. The first and highest occupies the site of the town which Caesar took. The high town owes its existence to a small oratory, over which a magnificent abbey was afterwards built. The low town, extending to the glacis of the citadel, is a fine modern town, regularly built. The houses are of hewn stone, several stories high ; and the public squares are very handsome. The two largest of the latter are contiguous, and are surrounded by houses of Gothic construction, which form a series of pillared arcades. The citadel, though enclosed within the same wall as the other parts of the town, is separated from them by an esplanade. It is in the form of an elongated pentagon, and capable ot making a vigorous defence. The chief public buildings of Arras are the cathedral, a large Gothic edifice, not of much external lieauty, but with a fine choir, which is supported by very slender pillars, and remarkable for the boldness of its construction ; the public library, an extensive building, and containing 34,000 volumes ; the Hotel de la Prefecture, the townhouseor Hotel de Ville, theatre, barracks, THE HOTEL DE VILLE, ARRAS. From Coney s Ancient Cathedrals and Uotels de \ Hie. &c. Arras ranks as a fortress of the third class , is the seat of a bishop, of a court of primary jurisdiction, and a court of com merce ; and possesses a chamber of manufactures, a communal college, a literary and scientific society, a school of design, and an institution for the deaf and dumb. Its chief manu factures are ironware, hosiery, lace and lace-thread, pottery and earthen pipes, soap, leather, and nails. It has also flax and cotton-mills, salt-refineries, oilworks, engine-works, several foundries, and numerous breweries. Its trade is in rapeseed oil, oil-seeds, corn and flour, wine, brandy, lace, thread, wool, and leather. The corn-market of Arras is the most important in the N. of France. The notorious terrorist Robespierre was born here. Pop. in 1846, 24,321. ARRAYAS, a tn. Brazil, prov. Goyaz, 120 m. S.E. Natividade, pleasantly situated in a hollow on the table-land of the serra de Santa Brida, and surrounded on all sides by low grassy hills. It contains a church, and three public schools, two of which are elementary ; one for boys, the other for girls ; in the third Latin only is taught. The greater part of the inhabitants are in great poverty, arising chiefly from their extreme indolence ; they are, however, universally of a kind and obliging disposition. Pop. about 300 ; and of the district, in which some gold is obtained and cattle are reared, rather more than 2000. (Gardner s Travels in Brazil; Die. Geo. Imp. Brazil.) ARRECIFE, a seaport tn., E. coast, Lancerota or Lan- zarote, one of the Canary Islands, of which it is the capital ; lat. 28 56 N.; Ion. 13 36 W. It is situated immediately S. of the harbour of Naos. The houses are large, the streets spacious and well paved, and the church handsome ; and the town possesses two endowed schools, and a cemetery. The greater part of the inhabitants are engaged in the fishery on the opposite coast of Africa, and in raising barilla, in which a considerable export trade is carried on. The harbour of Naos is small but secure, having two entrances, a N. and E. ; the former with a depth, at low water, of 12 ft. ; the latter ] 7 , with a 9 ft. rise of tide. During the winter, nearly all the island ARRESEE 215 ARRU ISLANDS vessels resort to this harbour. Pop. 2500. (Jour. Roy. Gco. Soc., vol. vi. p. 287 ; Madoz.) ARRESEE, a lake, Denmark, in the N. of the island of Seeland. It was at one time a bay of the Kattegat ; but the drift sand, by completely closing its mouth, has converted it into a very shallow lake, having a circumference of about 23 m., and an area of about 14 sq. m. The short Fredrichswerker Canal connects this lake with the Koeskelde-fiord. ARRESKOV-SEE, a small lake, Denmark, isl. of Fiihnen, tolerably deep, and abounding with fish. ARRETON, a par. England, co. Hants, Isle of Wight ; 8270 ac.; S.E. Newport. Pop. in 1841, 19b 4. ARRIATE, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. Malaga, in the vicinity of Ronda. It lies in a plain near the streamlet Ventilla, and has a church, prison, and two endowed schools. It is surrounded by extensive meadows ; and grain, olives, and fruit are cultivated, of which considerable quantities are exported to Cadiz, Malaga, &c. Pop. 3024. ARRIFANA, a fort, bay, and isl., S.W. coast, Portugal, prov. Algarve ; the first in lat. 37 15 N. ; Ion. 8 52 W. ; 19 m. N. by E. Cape St. Vincent. ARR1NGTON, a par. England, co. Cambridge; 1388 ac,; S.E. Caxton. Pop. in 1841, 317. ARROAS ISLANDS, a group of small islands and rocks in the Strait of Malacca, about 35 m. from the coast of Sumatra, and 55 from that of Malacca. The principal islands are called, respectively, the Great or Long Arroa, the Round Arroa, and the Western Arroa. The first is in lat. 2 52 30" N. ; Ion. 100 35 E., and consists of two contiguous isles; it is nearly a mile in length, flat, and covered with trees. The second, or Round Arroa, is a high round rock, with some trees on it ; lat. 2 49 N. ; Ion. 100 35 E. (R } Western Arroa con sists of a group of islets and rocks, lying about a mile W. of the Long Arroa, and on the same rocky bank. The Malay fishermen sometimes frequent these isles to fish, and procure turtle. (Horsburgh.) ARROC1IAR, or ARROQUH.AK, a par. Scotland, co. Dum barton, between Loch Lomond and Loch Long ; area, about 48 sq. m. On the banks of Loch Long, near its head, where is situated the parish church, a few houses are collected together, forming a sort of village, much resorted to during the summer season as sea-bathing quarters. The scenery around is wild and romantic. Pop. (1841), 580. ARROE, or HARN1SH ISLANDS, a cluster of islands in the Red Sea, about 30 m. N.W Mokha. The S.W. end of the largest, called Great Arroe, or Harnish Island, is in lat. 13 39 N. ; Ion. 42 39 E. (R.) It is about 10 m. in length, and 3 in breadth at the widest part. The centre rises to a considerable height, and presents from some points of view a remarkable bluff. The W. side is steep, with no bottom, in some places, at 100 fathoms close to. There is good pasturage in the valleys ; and antelopes abound. Little Arroe Island is about 4 m. N. from Great Arroe ; it is of an oblong shape, of great height, and upwards of 7 m. in circumference ; very rugged, with grass in some parts, and a few antelopes. There are a number of small islands and rocky islets scattered around. (Horsburgh.) See also AEKOE. ARROESKIOBING. See AEROE. ARRONCHES [anc. Septan- Arce], a tn. and par. Portu gal, prov. Alemtejo, dist. of, and 16m. S.E. from Portalegre, at the confluence of the Caya and the Alegrete. It is fortified, but not strongly ; and has two churches, a convent, an hospi tal, and a poorhouse. Pop. 120G. ARROO. See ARRU. ARROUX, a small river, France, in deps. Cote d Or and Saone-et-Loire, being an affluent of the Loire, which it joins on its r. bank, 13 m. W. Charolles. Length about 65 in. ARROW, a par. and township, England, co. Warwick ; 4220 ac. ; S.W. Alcester. Pop. in 1841, 543. ARROWSM1TH (CAPE and RIVER), Australia, the for mer on the W. shore of the Gulf of Carpentaria ; lat. 13 15 S.; Ion. 136 32 E. The latter is in W. Australia, Victoria Land ; it rises in Herschell range, and falls into the sea in lat. 29 30 S. ARROYO DEL i-UERCO [Pig Brook], a tn. Spain, in Estremadura, prov. of, and 10 m. W. from Caceres, in an elevated and extensive plain, enjoying a temperate climate. The houses are generally two stories high, the streets clean and well paved, and there are three large and two small squares. The town contains a parish church, in which are preserved several fine pictures by Morales, six endowed schools, an hospital, a palace of the ancient Dukes of Bene- vente, and several flour and other mills. Manufactures : earthenware, linen and woollen fabrics, oil, and soap; many of the inhabitants are employed as carriers in conveying earthenware, oil, fruits, &c., to Andalusia and lower Estre madura, and bringing back iron, grindstones, &c. Pop. 7395. ARROYO MOLINOS DE MONTANCHES, a In. Spain, in Estremadura, prov. of, and 27 m. S.S.E. from Caceres, on the edge of the ridge of Montanches, the scene of the surprise and defeat of the French by Lord Hill, October 28, 1811. The town has a square, and crooked, ill-paved, and dirty streets ; a parish church, a castle, townhall, prison, public granary, and several extensive flourmills ; and in the environs are a hermitage, and some springs of excellent mineral water. Manufactures : earthenware, oil, linen and woollen quilts, figured handkerchiefs, and wine. In the vicinity large num bers of pigs are reared, the bacon of which is famed, and forms a staple article in the trade of the town. Pop. 3286. ARRU, ARROU, or AROO ISLANDS [Dutch, Aroe\, a group of islands belonging to the Dutch, situated on the N. verge of the Great Australian Bank, S. and W. from New Guinea, and N.E. from Timorlaut Island, and extending from N. to S. about 127 m. According to Carnbee s map, they lie between lat. 5 20 and 7 6 S. ; and Ion. 134 10 and 134 54 E. They are nearly unapproachable from the E., in consequence of the coral reefs by which they are beset, consequently many of them have not been visited. The largest are Cobror or Kobroor, 69 m. by 23; Meicor or Maykor, 26 m. by 11; Trana or Tranna, 34 m. by 20 to 7 ; Worcay or Workay, 2 1 m. by 10. Besides these, there are smaller islands of various sizes, Wokan, Wamuier, Doear, Kola Waria, &c., and a great number of madrepore islets. They are separated by narrow channels, some of which are of great depth, and in which the tide regularly rises and falls. The growth of mangroves, which line the shores of these channels, tends every day to abridge their breadth. The islands are all low and swampy, with patches of rock here and there, about 20 ft. high ; but well-wooded and fertile, producing various cereals, fruits, and spices. The trees, which along the shores in many places form impenetrable forests, are of great height, many of them reaching to 90 ft. before they begin to branch out. The timber, of which there are several kinds, is remarkable for durability, and for the ease with which it works. The natives, according to Capt. Stokes, appear to be a mixture between the Malayan race and the Polynesian negro ; they are a harm less people, and have a good character for honesty ; but the greater portion are in a state of poverty, owing to an im moderate use of spirituous liquors, large quantities of which are brought by the traders from Java and Macassar. Many of them profess Christianity, having been converted by Dutch missionaries from Amboina ; from which place also teachers are still sent for the schools, in which the Christian children are taught the Malay language. The natives seem much dis posed to embrace Christianity, and to follow the usages, and adopt the manners, of social institutions. They live in villages 1 containing about 20 small thatched houses, and great harmony prevails among them generally ; their complexion is black, their hair long but strongly curled, and their stature about the middle size. Their food consists of sago, rice, maize, pumpkins, yams, fish, and pork. A small kind of kangaroo, similar to those met with on the N. coast of Australia, and here called the Pilandok, inhabits these islands ; perroqucts and birds of paradise abound ; the latter are shot by the natives with blunt arrows, which stun them without injuring the plumage. They are then skinned and dried, forming a great article of export. Other productions which form articles of export are trepang, tortoise-shell, pearls, mother-of-pearl, and edible birds nests. The chief trepang fisheries are on the shores of the island Workay, and other smaller islands in the S. of the group. The Arru Islands are much visited by native traders, and a considerable amount of commerce is carried on by merchants from Banda, Macassar, &c. ; and large quantities of British goods are annually imported. Pop. of the group, about 60,000. (Stokes s Australia; Earle s Eastern Seas Temminck, Coup d ccil sur VInde Neerlandaisc ; Moniteur des Lides.} ARRUL 213 ARTAKI ARRUL, a river which emerges from the S. end of Lake Munchar, on the W. confines of Sinde, and after a course of 20 m. joins the Indus. At Schwan, about 4 m. ahove, it is nearly 100 yards wide, and the depth of its channel in the middle is never less then 12 ft. The banks are fringed thickly with tamarisks and acacias, and an undergrowth of camel thorn and grass. The Luckee hills, part of the great chain of Hale, at a short distance from its banks, consist of lime stone, and a little below the junction contain a great variety of petrified shells, wood, and coral. Among the shells is a large species of nautilus, 18 inches across. In the country through which the Arrul passes, there is a good deal of laud under tillage, and numerous hamlets are seen ; but the only town of any importance is Schwan, which now contains only 2000 families, but is surrounded by an enormous space covered with ruined houses, mosques, and sepulchres, bearing testi mony to its ancient magnificence. ARS-EN-RE, a tn. France, dep. Charente-Inferieure. (Aunis), 19 ni. W.N.W. Eochelle; on the W. extremity of the Isle de Re, with a good roadstead and a small port. Salt is procured here, and is refined and exported in large quan tities. Beautiful transparent pebbles, white, yellow, and rose-coloured, are also found. Pop. 231 1. ARSAMAS, or ARZAMASS, a tn. Russia, gov. Nijni-Nov- gorod, cap. dist. of same name, r. bank, Tiosha, 250 m. E. Mos cow; lat. 55 25 N. ; Ion. 43 45 E. It contains 20 churches, and two convents. Manufactures : soap, leather, silk, linen, &c., the greater part of the latter of which is sent to Moscow and St. Petersburg. Pop. (1849), 8338. ARSIERO, a vil. Venetian Lombardy, delegation, V icenza, 6 m. N. Schio. In the neighbourhood are several paper- mills, and quarries of beautiful marble. Pop. 2800. ARSOLI, a vil. Italy, Papal States, 13 m. N.E. Tivoli. Pop. 2000. ART, or ARTH, a tn. Switzerland, can. of, and 7 m. N.W. from Schwyz, in a picturesque valley between the mountains Rigi and liossberg, at the S. extremity of the Lake of Zug. The town is well built, and contains a convent of Capuchins, with a library ; the church of St. George, remarkable for its fine architecture ; and a large fountain formed of a single block of granite. The inhabitants are employed partly in spinning silk, and partly in rearing cattle. They realize consider able gains, by furnishing guides and conveyances for tra vellers ascending the neighbouring mountains. Pop. 2150 (Catholics). ARTA, a city, Turkey in Europe, supposed to be the anc. Ambracia, 1. bank, Arta, about 6 or 7 m. from its em bouchure in the gulf of that name. The stream is here about 200 yards broad, and is crossed by a singular bridge, formed of three obtuse angles in place of a uniform curve, thus ren dering the passage both difficult and dangerous. It lies in a picturesque but unhealthy locality ; and its principal buildings are the palace of the Bey, the mosques, churches, and syn agogues. In the commercial quarter, each trade has its sepa rate street and bazaar. Manufactures : woollens, cottons, Russian leather, embroidery, which is brought to great per fection ; and a species of cloak or shaggy capote, termed floc- cata, and mucli esteemed as an article of dress. Chief articles of trade: cattle, wine, tobacco, cotton, hemp, hides, and grain. The. market is abundantly supplied with fruit and vegetables. The N. part of the city is inhabited solely by Turks, who exclude all Franks. The city was nearly de stroyed during the Greek insurrection. Part of the ancient walls, built of very large stones, still exists. The RIVER which rises in the mountains separating Albania from Macedonia, flows S., and falls into the Gulf of Arta after a course of about 70 m. It is not navigable for more than 5 or 6 m. up from its mouth. Pop. 7000. ARTA (GULF OF) [anc. Ambradus Sinus], an inlet, Ionian Sea, about 25 m. in length, and 10 in breadth ; it is composed of a larger and smaller basin ; the latter forming the Bay of Prevesa, and lying next the Ionian Sea. The entrance to each basin is very narrow ; the entire gulf being contracted at two points, by headlands running into it on the N. and S. It abounds with excellent fish, and its shores afford a variety of pleasing and picturesque scenery ; but rocks and sand-banks render its navigation somewhat danger ous. Near its entrance was fought the famous battle of Actium, between Antony and Augustus. See ACTIUM. naturally ornamented with representations resembling the different architectural orders, and reflecting innumerable com binations of prismatic hues from the light of the torches ; the roof is studded with brilliant stalactites, and the floor strewn with fragments which, from time to time, have fallen there from, and studded with large gradually-increasing stalagmites ; in the centre is a small pool of pure water. The second cave, Infierno, is even more splendid, in all its details, than the first, inasmuch as the crystal is of a purer and more dazzling whiteness, having been less frequently exposed to the smoke of travellers torches. ARTAINE, a par. Ireland, co. Dublin ; 954 ac. Pop. in 1841, 367. ART AJ ANA, a fortified tn. Spain, in Navarra, 17 m. S. Pamplona ; surrounded by walls flanked by 12 towers, toler ably well built, and having a church, two schools, an hospital, store-house, and two prisons. Its inhabitants are chiefly engaged in tillage ; but also distil brandy, which, with wine, oil, and grain, is sent to Pamplona, Logrouo, and Burgos. Pop. 1911. ARTAKI, or ANTAKI [anc. Artace], a small seaport, Asiatic Turkey, W. shore of the peninsula of Cyzicus, Sea of Marmara, about 80 m. S.W. Constantinople. It has a small harbour, with the remains of an ancient mole ; and at Cape Melanos, in its vicinity, are some ruins apparently of no great antiquity. The district is covered with vineyards, from the produce of which a wine is made which is much esteemed even at Constantinople. ARTA, a tn., E. side, isl. Majorca, 37 in. E. by N. Pal- ma, at the base of a hill. It is well built, defended by a castle ; has wide but rather steep streets, two large squares, a parish church, several chapels, a townhouse, and two schools. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in tillage, cattle-rearing, and fishing ; but also in weaving, dyeing cloth, and distilling brandy. Pop. 4001. In the neighbouring hills pipeclay I and millstones are obtained ; and on them are the remains of an ancient Arab castle. The locality is, however, chiefly noted for a natural stalactite cavern, which occupies the hollow of a hill, 6 m. S.E. the town. The entrance to this cavern is in the form of a halberd, and its interior is divided into two distinct compartments, called Primero, first, and Infierno, lower, on account of its depth and obscurity. Having passed the vestibule, a gorgeous spectacle bursts upon the sight; vast columns of crystal ascend to the roof profusely, though ARTANA 217 AKVA ARTANA, a tn. Spain, in Valencia, prov. of, and 10 in. S. W. Castellon de la Plana, at the foot of an isolated hill, in the centre of the sierra de Espadan. It has straight, clean, and generally well- paved streets ; two squares, a parish church, endowed school, hospital, and cemetery. On the crest of the hill are the ruins of an ancient castle, with an octagonal tower of Roman workmanship. Tillage, and the manufacture of bass mats and oil, are the chief employments. Pop. 2077. ARTAXATA, a former cap. Armenia, now a mass of ruins, on the Aras, 68 m. S.S.E. Erivan. It was built by King Artaxes, after a plan by Hannibal, destroyed by the Romans in the time of Nero, and rebuilt by King Tiridates under the name of Neronia. About A.D. 344, it again became the residence of the kings, who had left it on account of its unhealthiness. About A.D. 370, it was taken by the Persians, who burned it, and carried its inhabitants into captivity. At this time, it contained 9000 Jewish, and 40,000 Armenian houses, with a population of about 190,000. It rose again after this; but after 798, nothing more is heard of it. (Dubois, Voyage autour du Caucase.) ARTERN, a tn. Prussian Saxony, gov. Merseburg, circle, Sangerhausen, on a height 670 ft. above the sea level, near the Unstrut, which here begins to be navigable, 27 m. N. Weimar. It is the oldest town in the district, and has a palace and two churches. Salt is made here, but the spring which furnishes it is not very strongly impregnated. Pure rock-salt has more recently been discovered, and has been reached at a depth of 150 fathoms. Artern has a distillery, a saltpetre-work, and a seam of lignite. Pop. 3600. ARTHINGWORTH, a par. England, co. Northampton; 9030 ac.; S.E. Market Harborough. Pop. in 1841, 242. ARTHUR, a river, Van Diemen s Land ; it rises in the Surrey Hills, about lat. 41 25 S., and, after a N.W. course of between 50 and 60 m., falls into the sea, in lat. 41 10 S. ; Ion. 144 40 E. ARTHUR (PORT), a penal settlement, Van Diemen s Land, S. extremity of Tasman s peninsula, between Cape Raoul and Port Arthur ; lat. 43 9 6" S. ; Ion. 147 50 45" E. (R.) ; with anchorage and shelter for large vessels. It was first explored by Capt. J. Welsh, who gave it the name it now bears. ARTHUR (GREAT and LITTLE), two of the Scilly Islands (which see}. ARTHURET, a par. England, co. Cumberland; 17,390 ac. Pop. in 1841, 2859. ARTHUR S SEAT, a remarkable hill in the immediate vicinity of Edinburgh, Scotland, rising 822 ft. above the level of the sea. It is of easy ascent on its E. side, but on the W. is steep and rugged. On the S. side of the hill is a remark able columnar precipice, called Samson s Ribs. It is com posed chiefly of trap, and other rocks of volcanic formation, in which spars, zeolites, jaspers, and agates, are occasionally found. On the E. the strata appear to change, and mountain limestone is seen piercing the surface. Separated from Arthur s Seat by a narrow valley, called the Hunter s Bog, and nearer the city of Edinburgh, rises a lofty ridge called Salisbury Crags, presenting a precipitous and almost perpen dicular front. The upper part of it consists of greenstone, which was at one time extensively quarried for the public roads. This greenstone rests upon a sandstone, which, on coming in contact with it, is strangely scorched and twisted, and exhibits a variety of interesting geological phenomena, which were confidently appealed to by both parties in the keen controversy long carried on between Wernerians and Hut- tonians. From the top of Arthur s Seat, as well as from the road which has beer, recently formed around it, and, in honour of her present Majesty, is called the Queen s Drive, a most magnificent view is obtained. ARTOIS, a former prov. France, now forming the dep. of Pas de Calais, excepting the arrond. of Boulogne, and a portion of the arrond. of Montreuil. ARTRAMONT, a par. Ireland, co. Wexford; 2377 ac. ; has fine scenery, ruins of a castle, and Danish fort. Pop. in. 1841, 754. ARTREA, or ARDTREA, a par. Ireland, cos. Tyrone and Londonderry ; 20,963 ac. ; abounds in freestone and limestone. Pop. in 1841, 13,046. ARTVIN, a tn. Turkish Armenia, pash. Trebizond, cap. list. Sivanieh, in a valley, W. side of the Tchorak or Akampsis. VOL. T. The houses are all of wood, with exception of a few stono buildings belonging to the Turks. It contains a large E. catholic church, and has some manufactures of cotton cloth, and a considerable trade in butter, honey, wax, olives, and oil. Pop. 5500, chiefly R. catholics. A RUB A. See ORUBA. ARUCAS, a tn. Spain, on W. shore of Gomera, one of the Canaries, on the slope of a mountain which is upwards of 3000 ft. in height, having a church, chapel, school, and spacious public granary. Manufactures: hats, linen and cotton fabrics, thread, and clothing, all used in the vicinity ; but the chief occupation is agriculture. Pop. 4370. ARUM, or AARDM, a vil. Holland, prov. Friesland, be tween Harlingen and Bolsward, and 5 m. distant from either place. It lies in a cultivated district, and has a handsome Calvinistic church, and a corn-mill. Pop. 1100. ARUN, a river, England, co. Sussex, famous for its gray mullets ; rises in St. Leonard s forest, in the N. of the county, flows S., receives the Rother from the right, 4 m. S.E. Pet- worth, passes Arundel, to which it is navigable for vessels of 250 tons, and falls into the British Channel at Little Hampton, after a course of about 40 m. Canals unite it with the Wye, a tributary of the Thames, and with Chichester harbour. ARUN is also the name of a river in Nepaul, Hindoostan. ARUNDEL, a bor., market tn., and par. England, co. Sussex. The town is 10 m. E. Chichester, and 19 W. Brighton, pleasantly situated on a declivity sloping to the Arun, which is here crossed by a neat stone bridge of three arches. It comprises three principal streets, two of which are spacious, the third narrow and irregular, but all are well kept. The houses are mostly old, and timber-built, many of them dating as far back as the time of Elizabeth ; but there are also a number of handsome, substantial modern buildings. The town is amply supplied with water, effectually drained, and well lighted with gas. On the summit of a steep hill, on the N.E. side of the town, stands the ancient castle of Arundel, of Norman origin, the residence of the present Duke of Norfolk. The church, erected in 1380, is a handsome cruci form structure, with a well-built square tower rising from the centre. At the E. end is the collegiate chapel, in which are a number of curious and interesting monuments, chiefly re lating to the noble family of Howard. The townhall, in the Norman style of architecture, was built by the late Duke of Norfolk, at an expense of 9000. There are here, besides the parish church, an Independent and a R. catholic chapel. The principal school is the national school, erected by Charles, Duke of Norfolk, in 1814, and is supported by voluntary con tribution, and affords instruction to 300 children. The trade of Arundel is considerable, the river being navigable up to the town for vessels of 250 tons burden. The chief imports are butter, bacon, lard, grain, and starch, from Ireland ; grain and cheese from Holland ; grain, oilcake, wine, fruit, and eggs, from France ; timber from the Baltic ; and coal from Newcastle and Scotland. The principal exports are oak-timber, corn, flour, and bark. The gross customs receipt for 1847, was 2453, 7s. 4d. ; but this is little more than half the amount of the preceding year. The number of vessels registered at the port on December 31, 1847, was 47, tonn. 4226. The number of vessels that entered the port during 1847 was 229, tonn. 21,964; cleared 172, tonn. 14,682. There are two extensive breweries in the town. The borough was created in the reign of Edward I. The corporation consists, at present, of 16 councillors, including the mayor and four aldermen. The market is on Tuesday, chiefly for corn, of which large quantities are disposed, and on every alternate Tuesday there is an extensive cattle-market. Previous to the passing of the Reform Act, the borough returned two members to the House of Commons; since then, it sends one only. Registered electors in 1850, 221. The par. comprises 1830 ac., 710 of which are pasture, 347 in tillage, and the remainder in park and forest land. Pop. of bor. and par. 2624. (Correspondent in Arundel.) ARVA. 1, A co. Hungary, N. of the Danube, between lat. 49 10 and 49 35 N., having Galicia on the N. and E., and partly also on the W.; area, 797 sq. m. Pop. about 125,000. It is watered by the Arva, occupies higher ground than any other county in Hungary, and is not generally very fertile, although its soil is peculiarly favourable for the culti vation of the potato. Oats and flax are also grown in con- 28 ARYANS (Sr.) 218 ASCALON siderable quantities ; but its principal resources are its great forests, which aftbrd large supplies of timber. The pop. is chiefly of Bohemian-Slavonic, or Slowachian extraction. 2, A river, Spain, in Aragon, rising near the base of the sierra St. Domingo, prov. Huesca ; takes a S. course, and, being augmented by the Arva de Biel and other small streams, foils into the Ebro 3 m. S.W. Tauste, after flowing about 43 ra. ARYANS (ST.), a par. England, co. Monmouth; 2840 ac. Pop. in 1841, 354. A RYE, a river, Sardinian States, Savoy ; it rises at the foot of the Col-de-Balme, flows S.W. through the valley of Chamouni to Sallenches, thence past Bonneville N.W. to Geneva, about three-fourths of a mile W. of which it falls into the Rhone, after a course of about 70 m. The waters of the Arve being mainly derived from the melting of glacier-ice, are conse quently cold, and turbid from the quantity of pounded rock they hold in suspension. After entering the Rhone, which is clear and pellucid, the turbid stream of the Arve may be dis tinctly traced for about half a mile, holding on its way down the course of the former river, and keeping entirely apart from its clear waters. The effect of the transparent and muddy streams thus flowing along together, without mingling, is sufficiently curious. The latter, however, finally prevails, discolouring the former throughout. The beautiful pebbles found in the bed of the Arve, renders it interesting to the mineralogist. Some gold dust is found among its sands. The scenery on its banks is beautiful. ARVEYRON, a streamlet, Sardinian States, Savoy, an affluent of the Arve, which it joins a little above the vil. of Chamouni. It issues from a natural arch in the lower end of the Glacier des Bois, the termination of the Mer de Glace. The size of the arch, and the regularity of its forma tion, varies with the season of the year. ARVOREDO ISLAND, on the S.E. coast, Brazil, prov. Catherina; lat. 27 17 N. ; Ion. 48 22 W. (K.) ; off the N. end of the island of St. Catherina, and about 8 or 10 m. from the mainland. ARZAMAS, a tn. and dist. Eussia in Europe, gov. Nijni- Novgorod. The TOWN lies at the confluence of the rivers Tiocha and Cholka ; lat. 55 21 N. ; Ion. 43 20 E. It has two convents, several churches, some soap-factories, dyeworks, and iron-works. Two fairs are held annually ; and a consider able trade is carried on with St. Petersburg in sailcloth. Pop. 9000. The DISTRICT is watered by the rivers above named, and produces timber and a considerable quantity of flax. The farmers raise vast numbers of poultry ; and thousands of frozen or dried geese are sent annually to St. Petersburg. Pop. of dist. 120,000. ARZANO, a vil. Naples, prov. of, and 3 m. N. that city. It has some beautiful villas ; and flax and hemp are much cultivated in the neighbourhood. Pop. 41 43. ARZBERG, a tn. Bavaria, Upper Franconia, circle of Wunsiedel. It has two churches, two sawmills, some lime kilns, two iron-works ; and the preparation of alum, leather, pitch, &c., are carried on. In the vicinity are mines of iron, coal, and cobalt. Pop. 1380. ARZBERO is the name of numerous small towns and villages in Germany and Austria. ARZEW, ARZEO, or ARZAW [anc. Arsenaria], a seaport tn. Algiers, prov. Tlemsen, 24 m. E.N.E. Oran; lat. (fort) 35 51 42" N.; Ion. O u 17 W. (R.) It is ill built, but exhibits many traces of former splendour ; consisting of frag ments of columns, beautiful mosaic pavements, cisterns, &c. The harbour is the best in the regency, and is frequently resorted to by European vessels as a place of retreat in winter and autumn. On the fort, on the point of Arzew, a fixed light is shown, visible 4 m. distant ; lighted for the first time, December 25, 1844. Corn and salt, the latter obtained from saline springs in the neighbourhood, are the principal exports. Pop. 500. ARZIGNANO, a tn. Austrian Lombardy, 11 m. W. Vicenza, in a plain surrounded by hills, near the Agno. It has manufactories of cloth and spun silk, dyeworks, brickworks, and lime-kilns ; and an active trade in wool, silk, linen, wine, and cattle. Pop. 3500. ARZ1LLA [the Carthaginian Zillia, and Roman Julia Traducta], a small seaport, Morocco, 21 m. S. Cape Spartel ; lat. 35 28 N. ; Ion. 6 2 W. It is a miserable village, with out trade, wealth, or industry. The surrounding country is well wooded, and partly laid out in gardens. Pop. in 1835, said not to exceed 600. ASAB. See ASSAB. ASAHAN, or ASSAHAN, a tn., N.E. coast, isl. Sumatra, in the Batta country, cap. of a district, and situated on a river of the same name, about 20 m. from its embouchure in the Strait of Malacca. It carries on a considerable trade with Malacca, Penang, and Singapore. Its principal imports are salt, opium, cotton goods, arms, and gunpowder ; principal exports, wood for dyeing, rattans, rice, wax, horses, and slaves. ASAL. See ASSAJ,. A SAM. See ASSAM. ASAMA-YAMA, or ASAMA-NO-DAKE, a lofty and very active volcano, Japan, in the Interior of the island of Niphon, N.E. of the town of Komoro. ASANGARO, a tn. and dist. Peru, N. bank of Lake Titicaca. The town lies on a river of the same name, about 10 m. from its embouchure in the lake; lat. 15 30 S.; Ion. 71 30 7 W. Potatoes are the priiicipal agricultural pro duce of the district. Cattle and swine are numerous, forming the chief resource of the inhabitants. ASAPH (ST.) [formerly, Llan Elwy], a city and par., N. Wales, partly in co. Denbigh, partly in co. Flint, 6 m. N. Denbigh, and 24 m. W. by N. Chester, beautifully situated on the slope of a gentle eminence between the rivers Clwyd and Elwy. It consists of two principal streets, and several smaller diverging from them, all kept clean and in good order. The houses are all of brick, substantially and well built. St. Asaph is a bishop s see, said to have been founded by St. Kentigern or Mungo, Bishop of Glasgow, who, when exiled from his country, took refuge in Wales. On his return to Scotland, he was succeeded by St. Asaph, from whom the see and town are named. The only building of any note in the place is its cathedral, a plain cruciform building, with a square tower in the centre. The interior is striking and impressive an effect not a little heightened by a magnificent stained glass window in the E. end of the building. The original struc ture was founded in 1284, and was burned along with the town by Owen Glendower, in 1402 ; it has since been rebuilt, and has undergone various repairs, but is now disused. The other places of worship are the parish church, and the Cal- vinist, Wesleyan, Independent, and Baptist chapels. The educational means are an endowed grammar-school, a boys and girls national schools, and several private schools. There are also a society for the diffusion of useful knowledge, and several charitable and benevolent institutions. The town has a weekly market on Friday, and fonr annual fairs. It is in cluded in the Flint district of burghs. Pop. in 1841, of par. 3338 ; city, 1701. ASARO, a tn. Sicily, prov. Catania, dist. of, and 9 in. S. Nicosia. Pop. 3000. ASBEN, a considerable kingdom of Central Africa, about lat. 20 N. ; Ion. 7 E. The inhabitants are said to be Tuaricks, of the tribe of Kolluvi, but very little is known of the country. Asben is also the name of the chief town, or caravan station in the kingdom, and the distances are given as follows, in M Queen s Africa: Asben to Tripoli, 50 days journey; Asben to Tunis, two months; to Tafileh, 70 days; and to Murzook, 40 days. (See AIR in Supplement, vol. ii. p. 1287.) ASCALON, ASCULAN, or ASCALAAN [anc. Askkelon], a ruined city and seaport, Syria, 40 m. W.S.W. Jerusa lem, and about 14 m. N. by W. Gaza ; lat. 31 39 N. ; Ion. 34 31 E. (R.) Ascalon was originally a city and lord ship of the Philistines, but afterwards fell into the hands of the Jews, and of various other nations in succession. In the earlier part of the Christian era it was a bishop s see, and in the Middle Ages it bears a conspicuous part in the history of the Crusades. After being several times dismantled, and repaired during the war between Richard and Saladin, its fortifications were ultimately destroyed, and its port filled with stones by the Sultan Bibars, in 1270. In 16GG it was partly inhabited, but in 1827 it is described as without a human inhabitant, and as exhibiting a scene of utter desola tion, and distinctly fulfilling the prophecies of Scripture re garding it. This ancient city lies on an eminence, abrupt towards the sea, but sloping gently landward, and is almost encircled by a ridge of rock, along the edge of which the walls were built. Within arc the remains of a temple, of Grecian architecture, supposed to be that of Venus, which ASCENSION 219 ASCHAFFENBURO Herodotus states to have been plundered by the Scythians u.c. 630. There exist also the relics of a Roman amphi theatre, and of various churches and other buildings. Ascalon was the birthplace of Herod the Great, and of Antiochus the academician, and the teacher of Cicero. It is by the Arabs called Jaurah, and believed to be the residence of evil spirits. A little to the N. is a small modern village, named Scalona, pop. 400, with a harbour for vessels employed in the coasting trade. (Robinson s Bib. Researches ; Kitto s Palestine.) ASCENSION, a. rocky isl., S. Atlantic Ocean, about 8 m. in length, and about 6 in breadth, between Africa and S. America; lat. (Green Mountain) 7 57 S. ; Ion. 14 21 W. (R.), 595 m. N.W. the island of St. Helena, and presenting a very rugged and uninviting appearance from the sea. It was dis covered on May 20, Ascension Day, 1501, by Joao de Nova Gallego, a Portuguese ; and was visited two years afterwards, by Alfonzo d Albuquerque, who gave it its present name. It is of volcanic formation ; consisting of a single rocky moun tain, named Green Mountain, rising to the height of 2820 ft. above the sea level ; surrounded with numerous craggy peaks of less elevation, and with deep crevices and ravines filled with scoria, pumice-stones, and other igneous products. The scanty herbage of the island serves but to support a few goats, whose flesh, however, is said to be exceedingly delicate. A sufficiency of fresh water was long a desideratum on the island ; the only supply being what remained, after rain, in the clefts of the rocks. After many fruitless attempts to remedy this evil, Capt. Brandreth, who was appointed by the Admiralty in 1829, to survey and report on the island pre vious to its adoption as a military station, succeeded in dis covering a spring at a depth of 25 ft., which yields from four to seven tons of water daily, a quantity far exceeding the demands of the island. The coast all around is very steep ; but at the height of about 30 ft., occurs a level plain, 6 m. in circum ference, surrounded by precipitous rocks, supposed to be the crater of an extinct volcano which has gradually filled up. The only good anchorage is on the N.W. side of the island, in a small inlet, called Sandy Bay, opposite Georgetown, and known by a conical hill, called Cross Hill. Georgetown, lat. (barrack-square) 7 55 30" S. ; Ion. 14 25 30" W. (n.) consists of a fort, military quarters, and a few detached resi dences. Sandy Bay is much frequented by East Indiarnen and whalers, who have been in the habit of depositing letters, enclosed in a bottle, in a certain well-known crevice in the rock near the landing-place, called The Sailor s Post-Office, which are taken up by vessels going out or home, as the let ters may be addressed. The island formerly belonged to the Portuguese, but is now occupied by the British, who erected a fort, and placed a garrison there, soon after Napoleon was sent to St. Helena. Several English families, from the latter place, took up their residence on the island at the same time. Ascension has been long famed for its turtle, which are caught in great numbers. The season for taking them is between De cember and June, both inclusive. As many as 2500 have been turned in one year ; but from 400 to 500 is the usual number taken within that period. Many of the turtle weigh from 500 to 800 Ibs. each. They are usually collected in two large ponds or crawls, the water of which is occasionally changed. Turtle can now be obtained only by purchase ; any one taking them on the beach, or floating near the island, are liable to a penalty of 25. The usual price of a turtle is 2, 10s. The coast abounds also with fish of various kinds, and all excel lent; the conger-eel being the most prized. Another indi genous delicacy of this remarkable island, or rather rock, is the egg of the tropical swallow, or wide-awake, as it is called, on the island. They are largely used as an article of food ; 10,000 dozen being frequently gathered in a week. Wild guinea-fowl abound ; and wild goats were also to be had, but their extermination being considered essential to the suc cessful rearing of sheep and cattle, they are now scarce, and will, in all probability, soon disappear. The atmosphere is clear and elastic, and the climate remarkably salubrious. Communication with the shore is frequently rendered diffi cult, if not dangerous, by the setting in of heavy seas or rollers, which rise suddenly in the midst of the most perfect calm, and break with tremendous fury on the beach. The cause of this phenomenon is unknown. Some singular fossils have lately been discovered in this island, in a quarry on the N.W. side of the island, about 100 yards from the sea. They consist of the eggs of turtles, containing young turtle fully developed. (Jour. Roy. Geo. Soc.) ASCII, or ASCHA, a tn. Bohemia, circle, Elbogen, on a streamlet of the same name, and about 4m. N. the Erzgebirge; lat. 50 14 N. ; Ion. 12 12 E. It has a parish church, and manufactures of linen, cotton, and woollen goods. Pop. 2500. ASCH is the common name of at least 10 small places in ASCHACH, a tn. Upper Austria, r. bank, Danube, 13 m. N.W. Linz. It has a small old church, three benevolent institutions, a fine castle of the Counts of Harrach, and a con siderable trade in laths, timber, fruit, and linen. Pop. 1240. ASCHACH is the name of several other places in Germany. ASCH AF AS, a group of small islands in the Red Sea, off the W. coast of Yemen, Arabia, from which they are about 25 m. distant. The 16th parallel of N. lat. passes the most S. ASCHAFFENBURG-, a tn. Bavaria, prov. Lower Main, r. bank, Main, where it receives the Aschaff, and on the S.W. slope of the Spessart, 26 m. E.S.E. Frankfort-on-the-Maiu, and on the proposed railway from Frankfort to Bamberg. It is the seat of important local and appeal courts ; the buildings in connection with which form some of its most conspicuous edifices. It is surrounded by walls on all sides, except along the river. Its most conspicuous building is the royal palace, called Johannisberg, a large square red edifice, with five towers, built originally by the Elector-Archbishops of Mainz, and now the usual summer residence of his Bavarian Majesty. It commands a delightful view of the surrounding country ; and has a large garden, which is laid out in the English style, and forms one of the greatest attractions of the place. The high church, built in 974, has several fine monuments and sculp tures by Vischer, and a number of paintings, including one by Griinewald, and another supposed to be by Albert Durer. The other buildings and institutions deserving of notice are the Capuchin cloister, the Catherine hospital, with its order of poor sisters ; the library, which is at once extensive, and rich in ancient MSS. ; the gymnasium, and several other educa tional institutions ; the grammar school, the school of agricul ture, and the school of design. The chief articles produced here are cloth, paper, common and stained ; leather, red and white ; glue, soap, bricks, pottery, tobacco, brandy, spirit of wine, and liqueurs. The trade is considerable, and has been much extended by the establishment of steamboats, which ply on the Main between Wiirzburg and Frankfort. The antiquity of the town has led some to give it a Roman origin, and to find in its name a corruption of Ptolemy s Astiburgum. Pop. 9500. The PRINCIPALITY of Aschaffenburg, as existing in 1803, and annexed to the dukedom of Frankfort, had an extent of 500 geo. sq. m., lying along both sides of the Main, and including the immense forests of Odenwald and the Spessart parts of the ancient Hyrcania, mentioned by Caesar and Tacitus. In 1814, it came into the possession of Austria, and passed by exchange and purchase to Bavaria. The CIRCLE of Aschaf fenburg has an area of about 80 geo. sq. m., and a pop. of 20,1 80. ASCHE 220 ASHANTEE ASCHE, or ASSCIIE, a tn. Belgium, chief place com. and cau. of same name, prov. Brabant, on the high road from Ghent to Brussels, and 6 m. N. W. Brussels. It has breweries, distilleries, tanneries, and soapworks ; and is famous for a kind of very fine, light, sugared muffins or buns, which have a large sale, and are well known under the name of couques of Asche. Pop., tn. and com. 5300. ASCHEKSLEBEN, a tn. Prussia, cap. circle of same name, gov. of, and 27 m. S.S.W. Magdeburg, on the Eine, near its junction with the Wipper. It is surrounded by a strong wall with five gates, and has six churches (five Pro testant, and one R. catholic), a synagogue, a gymnasium, a poorhouse, and a foundling hospital. The chief articles pro duced are frieze, flannel, worsted stockings, leather, earthen ware, brandy, beer, and vinegar. In the neighbourhood are several interesting ruins; among others the castle of Askaniun, the cradle of the House of Anhalt. The CIRCLE (area 1 30 geo. sq. m.), with exception of a small level tract, is hilly, being traversed by the chain of the Hartz, which is here of considerable height. The soil of half the circle is good, con sisting partly of the bed of a large lake which, in 1703, was drained, and brought under cultivation. Pop. of tn. 10,100; of circle, 40,700, of whom only 450 are R. catholics, and 200 Jews. ASCIANO, an anc. tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 10 m. S.E. Sienna, on a declivity, 1. bank, Ombrone. It pos sesses a collegiate and two parish churches, in which are some fine pictures of the 16th and 17th centuries ; and municipal buildings. Pop. 6508. ASCOLI [anc. Asculum], a fortified tn. Papal States, cap. delegation of same name, r. bank, Tronto, 14 m. above its embouchure in the Adriatic, 90 m. N.E. Rome. The town, one of the most ancient in Italy, is well built, and contains many handsome edifices and noble mansions. It is the seat of a civil court, and of a bishop ; has several parish churches, and a college of Jesuits ; with manufactories of woollen cloths, cream of tartar, china-ware, sealing wax, paper, and glass. It lias an active trade, and its port, at the mouth of the river Tronto, is much frequented by coasting vessels. Pop. 12,500. The DELEGATION is 30 m. E. to W., and 23 m. N. to S. It comprises part of the ancient mark of Ancona and Fermo, is mountainous, and has about 3 m. of coast, which is low. It is divided into the districts of Ascoli and Montalto. Pop. in 1833, 78,946. ASCOLI-Bi-SATRiANO, a tn. Naples, prov. Capitanata, (list, of, and 13 m. E.S.E. Bovino. Built on the site of the Asculum Apulum of the Romans, which was destroyed by the Norrnans. It contains a fine cathedral, a diocesan seminary, an hospital, and some convents; and is the seat of a bishop. It was destroyed by an earthquake in the year 1400, and rebuilt by the inhabitants on its present site. Pop. 5560. ASCOT HEATH, England, co. Berks, par. Winkfield; about 3 m. N. the South-western Railway, and 6 m. S. W. by W. Windsor. It is celebrated for its fine race-course, formed by William, Duke of Cumberland. ASCOTT-UNDER-WYCinvooD, a par. England, co. Oxford ; N.E. Burford ; 2540 ac. Pop. in 1841, 463. ASUOUD, ESDUD, or SHDOOD [anc. Ashdod and Azotus], a vil. Palestine, 20 m. N. by E. Ascalon; lat. 31 5W N.; Ion. 34 43 E. ; between 3 and 4 m. from the Mediterranean, on the top of a grassy hill, surrounded by thick plantations, beautiful pastures, and a finely undulating country. Although occupying the site of an ancient city of note, it exhibits no remains either of antiquity or of grandeur. Asdoud was one of the five satrapies or lordships of the Philistines, who kept possession of it long after the Israelites were masters of the land. In the New Testament, it is mentioned under the name of Azotus, as the place where Philip was found after his meet ing with the Ethiopian eunuch. In very recent times, the village had a large khan or inn ; but was remarkable for no thing but the number of scorpions by which it was infested. (Robinson s Bib. Researches; &c.) ASEERGHUR. See ASSEERGHUK. ASG AKB Y, two parishes, England, co. Lincoln : 1 , Area, 1150ac.; S.E.Sleaford. Pop. in 1841, 77. 2, Area, 1590 ac.; N. by W. Spilsby. Pop. in 1841, 131. ASH, by itself, and with various affixes, the name of five parishes, England:!, Ash (near Sandwich), co. Kent, 6940 ac.; E. by N. Wingham. Pop. in 1841, 2077. 2, Ash (next Jtidley), co. Kent, 2930 ac. ; N. by W. Wrotham. Pop. in 1841, 663. 3, Co. Surrey, 12,650 ac. ; N.E. Faruham. Pop. in 1841, 2236. 4, Ash, orAshe, co. Hants ; 2310 ac. ; E.N.E. Whitechurch. Pop. in 1841, 160. 5, Ash (Bucking), co. Suf folk ; 750 ac. Pop. in 1841, 321. ASHANGEE, a lake, Abyssinia, in Tigre". The centre is in lat. 12 18 N.; Ion. 39 33 E.; greatest length, about 25 m. ; greatest breadth, about 14 m. ASHANTEE, an extensive and powerful kingdom, W. Africa, on the Gold Coast, Upper Guinea (cap. Coomassie), extending from lat. 5 to 9 30 N. ; and from Ion. 55 E. to 4 7 W. ; bounded, W. by the Assinee, E. by the Volta and Soka, N. by the Kong Mountains, and S. by the Atlantic. It is thus about 310 m. from E. to W., and nearly the same from N. to S., its general form being pretty compact. It is veil watered, particularly towards the coast, where the country is intersected by several considerable streams besides those named. The principal are the Seenee or Ancobra, called the Bara in the earlier part of its course; the Sube, the Amissa, Bosempra, and Birrim. The country is in general mountainous, though it has no systems, nor any great elevations. It is covered with dense forests from the coast to a distance of 200 m. inland. These are wholly impenetrable, excepting by paths which have been opened up in various places with great labour. Ashantee abounds in gold. The richest mines are in Gaman, and its provinces of Baman, Safoy, and Showy. In these places the precious metal is found in large pieces, some of about four Ibs. weight, called rock-gold. The ore is of a deep colour, and is dug out of pits from 5 to 9 ft. in depth. About 10,000 slaves are employed on the banks of the Bara for two months in the year, collecting gold dust, v hich is also found in great quantities, as well as the solid metal. The climate is very unhealthy ; the heat great, though perhaps not so excessive as the position of the country would lead us to expect. Vegetable productions attain here their most gigantic dimensions. On the coast flourishes the enormous baobab, with the mangrove, palm and cotton trees, all of which reach the most stupendous sizes. The country is ex tremely fertile, producing abundant crops of rice, corn, sugar cane, and yams, which last form the staple vegetable food of the people. The domestic animals are cows, horses of a small breed, goats, and a species of hairy sheep. The wild animals are elephants, rhinoceroses, giraffes, buffaloes, deer, antelopes, apes, monkeys, baboons, lions, tigers, leopards, jackals, wolves, wild boars, &c. The rivers swarm with crocodiles and hippopo tami ; and reptiles of all sizes, some of them enormous, and many poisonous, abound everywhere. Birds of all descrip tions, with every variety of plumage, many of extreme beauty, are also numerous. Few of them, however, excel as songsters. Insects of various kinds abound. Sharks are so numerous on the coast, that they form the principal food of the natives. The rivers are also well stocked with fish. The Ashantees are warlike and ferocious, with a love for shedding human blood, and inflicting violent and sanguinary deaths, amounting to a passion. In war they spare neither age nor sex; and human teeth, and human jaw-bones, are worn as personal ornaments. Human sacrifices are made to an extent, with a frequency, and accompanied by an atrocity of circum stances hardly credible. Bowditch, who was in Coomassie during one of their saturnalia, relates that a procession entered the town, displaying a number of human heads, and accom panied by two parties of executioners of about 100 each, dancing with the most frightful gestures, and clashing their knives on the skulls which they carried. A hundred persons, says this writer, were sacrificed in different parts of the town on this occasion, the victims being led to execution with knives thrust through their jaws and tongue, from side to side. The manner of death is hacking with large knives and swords. Slaves are sacrificed over brass pans, that their blood may mingle with the charmed ingredients contained in them. The executioners wrangle and struggle with each other for the victims, as they are brought up to suffer death. On the demise of any great personage, or any member of the royal family, these horrors are increased tenfold ; the streets are deserted, and, from morning to night, the work of murder goes on. Bowditch passed several headless trunks, in whose blood vultures were revelling ; and Dupuis witnessed a royal progress, in which the most conspicuous figure was that of a gigantic negro bearing the execution-stool, encrusted with ASHBORNE 221 ASHBY-DE-LA-ZOUCH gore, and howling the song of death. The following descrip tion, by Lander, of the fetiche tree, beneath which grand sacri fices are made every year, completes the account of Ashantee barbarity: It was the most ghastly and appalling object I ever beheld. Its enormous branches were literally covered with fragments of human bodies, and its majestic trunk sur rounded by irregular heaps of hideous skulls. Thousands of vultures were yet hovering round and over their disgusting food, and now and then pouncing fearlessly on a half-devoured arm or leg. Notwithstanding this singular cruelty of dis position, the Ashantees are a people of superior intelligence, and further advanced in civilization than any of the nations of W. Africa. They are also by far the bravest, and have greatly extended their dominions by conquest. The better classes are extremely cleanly in their habits ; their dresses are graceful, and often of rich material. The lower orders, however, wear nothing but a piece of cotton cloth, fastened round the waist. The former live well ; soup, beef, mutton, wild hog, deer, and monkey s flesh, forming their usual fare ; while the latter subsist principally on fish and millet. The common drink is palm wine. Morality is at a low ebb amongst them ; the husband has power of life and limb over his wife, and adultery is punishable by death. Polygamy is allowed, and marriage effected by paying a sum of money to the parents of the girl, and giving a family feast. The Ashantees excel in the manufacture of cotton cloths, and in the brilliancy of their dyes. They also make good earthen ware, tan leather, and work in iron, making sword-blades of superior workmanship. But it is in the fabrication of articles in gold that they display the greatest skill, these often exhibit- j ing a combination of fine taste, with dexterous manipulation. The chief article of export is gold, with a little ivory, and some dyewoods. They also export great numbers of slaves. Their principal imports are : muskets, gunpowder, spirituous liquors, tobacco, iron, tin, copper, lead, with cotton and Indian goods, the latter chiefly for the extraordinary purpose of being unravelled, on account of their colours, and being re-manu factured in the native looms. The currency is gold, in dust and lumps, and the well-known cowrie-shell. The govern ment of Ashantee is a despotism, alleged to be controlled by an aristocracy, consisting of four persons, and an assembly of cabouers or captains. But this control, if it does at all exist, must be very slight, as it never seems to interfere with the royal will, which has all the appearance of being absolute. Of the military prowess of the Ashantees, their numerous victories over native tribes is sufficient evidence; but still stronger, perhaps, is found in their formidable and often suc cessful resistance to disciplined troops. Though finally de feated and brought under subjection to the British arms, they had, throughout a series of years, afforded them no ground of claim to superiority. Their final overthrow occurred in 1826. The military force of the state, according to Bowditch, ex ceeds 200,000 men. The prevailing religion of the Ashantees is Fetichism (see AFRICA); but there are also many Mahometans among them. They appear, however, to have some idea of a Supreme Being, and of a future state, believing that their kings, priests, and chief men, go after death to reside with the Great Spirit, resuming their earthly state, which is thence forth to be eternal. The origin of the Ashantee nation is involved in an obscurity which the interest of the subject would hardly warrant an attempt to penetrate. Taking up its history at an early part of the 17th century, we find it then forming a powerful, though small monarchy, capable of sending 60,000 men into the field. In the beginning of the following century, the King of Ashantee, at the head of a large army, invaded the adjoining kingdom of Dinkra or Dinkira, having been incited thereto by an outrage offered to one of his wives, by the king of the latter kingdom. In this contest, in which it is said 100,000 men fell, the Ashantees were victorious, and the kingdom of Dinkira became a part of the Ashantee territory. After this they conquered, in rapid succession, all the states around them, until they ex tended their dominion to its present limits. Bowditch estimates the population of the whole empire, at somewhere about 3,000,000 ; but this estimate must be in a great measure con jectural, or at best founded on very loose data. (M Queen s Survey of Africa; Bowditch s Ashantee Mission; Dupuis s Residence in Asliantee; &c.) ASHBORNE, a market tn. and par. England, co. Derby. The town is 12 m. N.W. Derby, and 38 m. S.S.E. Manchester, in a fertile valley near the 1. bank of the Dove. The houses are mostly of red brick ; the streets pretty regular, partially paved, and well lighted with gas ; and the supply of water is abundant. The church is a handsome building, supposed to have been erected about the middle of the 13th century. There are chapels here, also, for Baptists, and Wesleyan and Calvinistic Methodists, a free grammar-school, a preparatory English school, a school for girls under 12 years of age, several daiiy schools, and four sets of alms-houses, one of which is for the widows of four Protestant clergymen. A new jail or lock-up has been recently erected, also a savings -bank, the latter a neat stone structure. Cotton and lace are manufac tured here, the former to some extent, but the chief trade of the town is in cheese and malt, mostly sent to the manufac turing districts in the neighbourhood. There are several news -rooms and libraries, all of which are respectably sup ported, and two or three branch banks. The town is governed by the county magistrates, who hold petty sessions here every Saturday. Market-day, Saturday ; eight fairs annually, chiefly for horses, cattle, and wool. The romantic beauty of the scenery in the vicinity attracts many visitors. Area of par. 12,800 acres. Pop. in 1841, 4936. ASHBRITTLE, a par. England, co. Somerset; 2460 ac.; W. Wellington. Pop. in 1841, 540. ASHBURNHAM, a par. England, co. Sussex; 4280 ac. Pop. in 1841, 790. ASHBURTON, a bor. and market tu.anu par. England, co. Devon; in a fertile valley, 15 m. S.S.VV. Exeter. It consists of four principal streets, all well kept. The houses are in general neat, and chiefly of stone. The town is amply supplied with excellent water, and is lighted with gas. A new market-place is just now (1850) in process of erection. There are five churches altogether, some of which are rather handsome structures, a free grammar-school, also a free school for the instruction of children, several benevolent societies, and a public library. The principal manufactures are serges, for the home and China markets, but this branch has much decreased lately. Area of par. and bor. 8320 ac. Pop of par. in 1841, 3841; oftn. 3014. ASHBURY. 1, A par. England, co. Devon; 1650 ac.; S. W. Hatherleigh. Pop. in 1841, 65.- 2, A par., co. Berks ; 5520 ac. ; N.W. Lambourne. Pop. in 1841, 819. ASHB Y, by itself, and with different affixes, the name of 1 6 parishes, England:!, Co. Norfolk; 640 ac.; S.E. Norwich. Pop. in 1841, 263. 2, Co. Norfolk ; 1150 ac. Pop. in 1841, 85. 3, Co. Suffolk; 800 ac.; N.W. Lowestoft. Pop. in 1841, 53. 4, Ashby (Canons], co. Northampton; 2600 ac.; W. by N. Towcester. Pop. in 1841, 252. 5, Asliby (Castle), co. Northampton ; 1740 ac. ; E. by S. Northampton. Pop. in 1841, 172. 6, Ashby (Cold), co. Northampton; 1940 ac. ; N.N.W. Northampton. Pop. in 1841, 443. 7, Asliby, with Fenby, co. Lincoln; 1620 ac.; S. by E. Great Grimsby. Pop. in 1841, 211. 8, Ashby, by Partney, co. Lincoln; 1210 ac.; E. Spilsby. Pop. in 1841, 160. 9, Ashby-de-la-Launde, co. Lincoln; 2880 ac. ; N. Sleaford. Pop. in 1841, 157. 10, Ashby-Folville, co. Leicester; 2830 ac. ; S.W. Melton Mow- bray. Pop. in 1841, 437. 11, Ashby-Magna, co. Leicester; 1720 ac.; N. by E. Lutterworth. Pop. in 1841, 337. 12, Ashby- Parva, co. Leicester; 1260 ac. ; N. by W. Lutter worth. Pop. in 1841, 179. 13, Ashby-Paerorum, co. Lin coln; 1620 ac.; N.E. Horncastle. Pop. in 1841, 102. 14, Asliby (St. Leger s), co. Northampton; 2050 ac.; 4 m. N. Daventry, on the Lincoln and Birmingham Kailway. Pop. in 1841, 257. 15, Ashby (West), co. Lincoln; 1590 ac.; N. Horncastle. Pop. in 1841, 534. 16, Ashby-Mears, co. Northampton; 1890 ac. Pop. in 1841, 496. ASHBY-DE-LA-zoucH, a market tn. and par. England, co. Leicester, in a fertile valley on the borders of Derbyshire, on the Gilwisthaw, a tributary of the Trent, 16 m. N.W. Leicester. It takes its distinctive appellation from the ancient Norman family of La-Zouch, who came into possession of the manor in the reign of Henry III. In 1461, it devolved to the Crown, by whom it was granted to the noble family of Hastings. The town consists of several wide streets, well paved and well lighted. The principal street is particularly spacious and clean. Many of the shops are handsome, and a number of substantial new houses rising in various directions indicate a progressive prosperity. The church is a handsome ASHCHURCH 222 ASHTOLA structure, and the town has, besides, places of worship for Independents, Wesleyan and Calvinistic Methodists, and Bap tists ; several schools, and a small theatre. The manufactures are chiefly of cotton and woollen stockings, and hats. It has also a considerable trade in malt. On the S. side the town, are the Ivanhoe Baths occupying a splendid edifice, and abundantly supplied with medicinal waters, considered the strongest of their kind in England, and singularly efficacious. On the S. side are also the ruins of Ashby Castle, celebrated in English history as the scene of many remarkable occur rences. It is of great antiquity, having been a place of note as early as the llth century. About 1 m. N.W. the town, are the meadows which Scott has made the scene of the famous passage of arms in his magnificent novel, Ivanhoe. Ashby was the native place of Joseph Hall, Bishop of Nor wich, and of Dr. John Bainbridge. Pop. of par. in 1841, in cluding 444 belonging to the chapelry of Blackfordby, 5652. ASHCHURCH, a par. England, co. Gloucester ; 4240 ac.; E.N.E. Tewkesbury. Pop. in 1841, 743. ASHCOMBE, a par. England, co. Devon ; 2250 ac. ; N.E. Chudleigh. Pop. in 1841, 297. ASHDALAG, a large and beautiful vil. Eussian Arme nia, about 35 m. N.W. Erivan, high up on the S. slope of the Alaghez Mountains. It is inhabited exclusively by Christians, enjoys a very mild climate, and is surrounded by rich gardens. The inhabitants are in a comfortable condition, and cultivate the well-watered fruitful soil of the vicinity. (Wagner s Eeise nach dcm Ararat.} ASHDOD. See ASDOUD. ASHDON, or ASIHNGDON, a par. England, co. Essex; 4840 ac.; N.E. Saffron Walden. Pop. in 1841, 1164. ASHELDHAM, a par. England, co. Essex; 1810 ac.; S.S.W. Bradwell. Pop. in 1841, 219. ASHELWORTH, 1710 ac.; N. Gloucester. par. England, co. Gloucester; Pop. in 1841, 594. ASHENDON, a par. England, co. Bucks ; 1790 ac.; N. Thame. Pop. in 1841, 312. ASH1NGDON, a par. England, co. Essex; 1020 ac.; N. Rochford. Pop. in 1841, 119. ASHINGTON, two parishes, England:!, Co. Somcr set; 550 ac.; E.S.E. Suss o parishe Ilchester. Pop. in 1841, 71. 2, Co. sex ; 1430 ac. , N. Steyning. Pop. in 1841, 282. ASHKIRK, a par. Scotland, cos. Roxburgh and Selkirk ; 3200 ac. Pop. in 1841, 563. ASHLEY, four parishes, England: 1, Co. Northamp ton; 1190 ac. ; bounded on the N. by the river Welland. Pop. in. 1841, 323. 2, Co. Stafford ; 2600 ac. ; N.W. Ecclcs- hall. Pop. in 1841, 853. 3, Co. Hants; 2580 ac. ; S.E. Stockbridge. Pop. in 1841, 102. 4, Co. Wilts; 1010 ac.; N. Malmsbury. Pop. in 1841, 9 6. ASHLEY-CUM-SYLVERLEY, a par. England, co. Cam bridge ; 2143 ac. ; S.E. Newmarket. Pop. in 1841, 417. ASHM ANH AUGH, a par. England, co. Norfolk , 700 ac.; N.N.W. Whitechurch. Pop. in 1841, 180. ASHMORE, a par. England, co. Dorset , 3940 ac. ; S.E. Shaftsbury. Pop. in 1841, 242. ASHOLT, a par. England, co. Somerset; 2650 ac.; W. by S. Bridgewater. Pop. in 1841, 201. ASHOVER, a tn. and par., co. Derby, pleasantly situ ated in a deep narrow valley, through which the Amber flows, 16 m. N. Derby, and 3 m. from the Stratton station of the Midland Railway. The chief building is the church of All- Saints, which is a large and beautiful Gothic structure, with a square embattled tower, from the centre of which rises a hand some spire 69 ft. high. This church contains several monu ments of considerable antiquity, and possesses a curious old leaden font of circular form, and ornamented with rude figures in bas-relief. The other places of worship are, one for the Wesleyan, and another for the Primitive Methodists. The rectory is neat and spacious, and surrounded by gardens and pleasure-grounds. Besides an endowed school, there is also a school for girls, built in 1846. Lead mines were at one time extensively worked in the parish, but all mining opera tions have ceased, and Ashover has, in consequence, greatly ASHFIELD, two parishes, England, co. Suffolk: 1, | declined. Limestone is still quarried to some extent; and 1560 ae. ; E. Debenham. Pop. in 1841, 343. 2, Ashfidd\ there is a twisting-mill for Nottingham lace. Medicinal herbs (Great), 2030 ac. ; N.N.W. Stowmarket. Pop. in 1841, 396. are grown in considerable quantities. Area of par. 1 l,29u a.e. ASHFORD, a market tn. and par. England, co. Kent, agreeably situated on a gentle eminence, 1. bank of the Sour, which is here crossed by a stone bridge of four arches, about 54 m. E.S.E. London, and 20 m. S.E. by E. Maidstone. It consists of three principal streets, straight, well kept, and well lighted with gas, but indifferently supplied with water. The houses are, in general, of brick, and are well built. The church, which is in the perpendicular style, is in the form of a cross, with a tower 120 ft. high, surmounted by four pin nacles rising from the centre ; the latter erected in the reign of Edward IV. The other places of worship are a Baptist and a Wesleyan chapel, a chapel for the Countess of Hunting don s connection, and a meeting-house for the Society of Friends. The schools are, a grammar-school, British and national schools, three ordinary day schools, and several boarding-schools. There are a suit of assembly rooms, lately built ; two well-supported libraries, and a reading-room. With the exception of some tanning, the only branch of manufacture is that of table-linen, hop-bags, sacking, &c., carried on to a small extent. Market-day, Saturday. Corn- market, Tuesday. The South-eastern and Dover Railway passes through the parish, the station here being half a mile from the town. The branch line to Canterbury, Ramsgate, Margate, and Deal, joins the main line near Ashford station. There is another branch from Ashford to Hastings. Pop. of par. and tn. in 1841, 3082. Also a vil., co. Derby, hun. High Peak, par. and 2 m. N.W. Bakewell. Pop. 950. ASHFORD, four parishes and a chapelry, England: 1, Co. Devon ; 2170 ac. ; N.W. Barnstaple. Pop. in 1841, 174. 2, Chapelry, co. Derby; situated on the Wey. Pop. in 1841, 950. 3, Co. Middlesex ; 1500 ac. ; E. Stains. Pop. in 1841, 5 ^4. 4, (Bmodler,} co. Salop ; 630 ac. ; S. Ludlow. Pop. in 1841, 96 5, (Carbonell,) co. Salop ; 1480 ac. ; separated from Ashford Bowdler by the river Theme. Pop. in 1841, 266. ASHFORDBY, a par. England, co. Leicester ; 1210 ac.; W. Melton Mowbray. Pop. in 1841, 482. ASHILL, two parishes, England:!, Co. Norfolk; 2970 ac. ; N.W. Watton. Pop. in 1841, 637. 2. Co. Somer set ; 1860 ac. ; N.W. Ilminster. Pop. in 1841 , 438. Pop. in 1841, 3482 ASHOW, a par. England, co. Warwick ; 1 100 ac. ; N.N.E. Warwick. Pop. in 1841, 172. ASHPRINGTON, a par. England, co. Devon ; 2240 ac. ; S.E. Totness. Pop. in 1841, 588. ASH-PHIORS, a par. England, co. Somerset; 750 ac. ; N.W. Taunton. Pop. in 1841, 226. ASHREIGNEY, a par. England, co. Devon ; 6220 ac. ; W. by S. Chumley. Pop. in 1841, 1088. ASHRUFF, ASIIKAF, or USHHUFF, a tn. Persia, prov. Mazanderan, 50 m. W. Asterabad, and about 8 m. from the Caspian Sea ; lat. 36 41 45" N. ; Ion. 53 33 53" E. (i,.) It was the favourite residence of Shah Abbas the Great, who built here an extensive and magnificent palace. This and many other fine buildings that adorned the town are now in ruins ; enough, however, still remains to leave a favourable impression of the Persian monarch s taste. Ashruff is said to have formerly contained 300 baths within its walls; but it has now only 500 houses, thinly scattered through an extensive jungle. (Fraser; Burnes.) ASHTEAD, a par. England, co. Surrey; 2510 ac. ; S.W. Epsom. Pop. in 1841, 618. ASHTOLA, or SUNGADEEP, a small desolate isl. Indian Ocean or Arabian Sea, off the coast of Mukran in Beloochistan ; lat. 25 5 N. ; Ion. 63 42 E. ; about 15 m. from the main land. It is accessible at one point only, on the N. side ; on all others the steep cliffs rise to a height of about 300 ft. When Lieut. Kempthorne visited it in 1835, there were no in habitants on it, nor any vestige of human habitation. Great quantities of turtle frequent the island for the purpose of de positing their eggs ; and immense numbers of the former are killed by the Arabs, who export the shells to China, throwing the carcass away as unclean. Ashtola was at one time a favourite rendezvous of the Jowasimee pirates, who here committed many savage murders on the crews of the vessels they captured. The remains of their look-out tower are still visible; it is built on a high cliff, very difficult of access, and commands an extensive view to seaward. (Kempthorne a Notes.) ASHTON 223 ASIA ASHTON, seven parishes, England: 1, Co. Devon; 1560 ac. ; N. Chudleigh. Pop. in 1841 , 319. 2, Co. North ampton; 1290 ac. ; S. Northampton, on the London and Bir mingham Railway. Pop. in 1841, 417. 3, Asliton (Cold), co. Gloucester ; 2310 ac. ; E. by S. Bristol. Pop. in 1841, 414. 4, Ashton (Keynes), co. Wilts ; 3820 ac. ; W. Cricklade. Pop. in 1841, 1332. 5, Asliton (Lony), a vil. and par., co. Somerset; 4110 ac.; S.W. Bristol. Pop. in 1841, 1926. 6, Ashton- upon-Merscy, co. Cheshire ; 3690 ac. ; N.E. Altrincliam. Pop. in 1841, 2414. Ashton (Steeple), a par. and township, co. Wilts ; 7450 ac. ; E. Trowbridge. Pop. in 1841, 1941. ASHTON-UNDER-LYNE, a market-tn., par., and parl. bor. England, co. Lancaster, hun. Salford. The town is 6 m. E. Manchester, 160 m. N. W. by N. London, on a gentle declivity, 1. bank, Tame ; and consists of upwards of 200 streets, nearly all of which are perfectly straight, but many, especially the older ones, very narrow. Tiie newer streets are more spacious ; and all are well paved, well lighted with gas, and water is plentiful. The houses are in general substantially built of brick, and two stories in height, and many of them are hand some buildings. On the N. side of the spacious market place or square stands the townhall, an elegant structure, erected in 1840 at an expense of 7506. The banking-offices of the Ashton, Stalybridge, Hyde, and Glassop Bank, and the Man chester and Liverpool District Bank, are also worthy of notice. Amongst the architectural objects of antiquarian interest in the town are the old manor hall, the manor court-house, an antique circular structure, erected in 1636, on the site of an earlier building of a similar description ; the parish alms- houses, and the manorial cornmills on the river Tame, known to have existed in nearly the same form as now six centuries ago. The ancient parish church of St. Michael, which stands on an eminence near the S.E. entrance to the town, was founded in the 13th century ; it has frequently been rebuilt, and is at present a fine specimen of ecclesiastical architecture in the later English style. It underwent a thorough repair in 1842, at a cost of 6800. St. Peter s Church, erected in 1824 at an expense of 14,000, is adorned with a remarkably fine tower. Christ-Church, situated on the N.W. side of the town, was erected in 1847 at a cost of 3000 ; it is a cruciform structure, in the early English style. Besides the parish churches, there are 10 dissenting chapels, most of them neat brick edifices, belonging to various religious denominations. The means of education are 22 private and public day schools with an average attendance of 1859 pupils. The principal are those of the National Society, belonging to the three churches ; of the British Society, belonging to the Independents ; and that connected with the Wesleyan body. There are also four dame schools, in which are 64 children ; one infant school, in connection with St. Peter s Church, which has an average daily attendance of 148 pupils ; and 12 Sunday schools, attended by about 4478 scholars. The charitable and benevolent institu tions consist of the female benevolent society, supported by subscription; numerous sick and burial societies, and sundry bequests, which are disbursed from time to time by the rector and churchwardens. A mechanic s institute was established in 1825 ; it has a library consisting of 2000 volumes, and a reading-room well supplied with the current literature of the day ; also evening classes, conducted by competent masters, for the instruction of the subscribers in the various branches of education usually taught in such institutions. Principal manufactures : cotton-yarn spinning, and weav ing calicoes by the power-loom. The number of factories at present existing within the borough is 84, working 3533 horse power, and giving employment to 14,377 work people; the weekly wages of whom amount usually to about 7900. The consumpt of raw cotton is estimated at 1,400,000 Ibs. weekly. The following remarks on the working population of Ashton- under-Lyne and their social condition, by an intelligent local correspondent, will not be found without interest: The operative classes, which comprehend nearly the whole popu lation of this town, are small in stature, sallow in complexion, marry early, have large families, and live expensively when in full employment ; they are deficient in domestic economy, fond of attending public assemblies, careless about education and religion, and wanting in forethought and retrospection ; but they are skilful and industrious workmen, attentive to the due execution of their tasks, and, wheu unexcited by evil influences, are generally contented. In 1843 a barrack was erected near the town, at a cost of 42,500, in which a battalion of infantry and a troop of horse are permanently stationed ; and, in 1840, a cemetery, com prising nearly 3 ac., was laid out on the E. side of the town. The principal market-day is Saturday; and, in 1846, a weekly cattle-market, on Tuesday, was established ; markets are also held on Monday and Wednesday. There are four fairs an nually ; and one on the second Thursday in every month for the sale of horned cattle, sheep, pigs, &c. Aston-under-Lyne sends one member to the House of Commons. Constituency in 1850, 724. The increase of the wealth and population of this town within the last half century, but particularly within the last 20 years, has been very remarkable. In 1821 its population was 9222, in 1841 it was 22,689, and in 1851 it was 29,791. Area of par. 9300 ac. Pop. in 1841 , 46,304. (Correspondent in Ashton-under-Lyne.) ASHURST, two parishes, England:!, Co. Kent; 1000 ac. ; W. Tunbridge Wells. Pop. in 1841, 224. 2, Co. Sus sex ; 2250 ac. ; N. Steyning, on the Brighton and London Railway. Pop. in 1841, 427. ASH WATER, a par. England, co. Devon; 4220 ac. ; S.E. by E. Holsworthy. Pop. in 1841, 1046. ASHWELL, three parishes, England: 1, A par. and vil., co. Herts ; 3500 ac. ; N.N.E. Baldock. Pop. in 1841, 1235.- 2, Co. Rutland ; 1890 ac. ; N. Oakham. Pop. in 1841, 223. 3, Ashwell (Thorpe), co. Norfolk; 1030 ac. ; S.E. Wymondham. Pop. in 1841, 469. ASHWICK, a par. England, co. Somerset ; 1700 ac. ; N.E. Shepton Mallet. Pop. in 1841, 945. ASHWICKEN, a par. England, co. Norfolk; 1260 ac. ; E.S.E. King s Lynn. Pop. in 1841, 78. ASIA, the largest of the great divisions of the globe. Its mainland is bounded, N. by the Arctic Ocean, S. by the Indian Ocean, E. by the N. Pacific Ocean, W. by Europe, and S.W. by Africa. Its greatest length is from the Dardan elles to Bchring s Strait, a distance of about 7500 m. ; its greatest breadth, from Cape Sievero Vostotchnia, in Siberia, to Point Romania, at the S. extremity of the Malay Penin sula, about 5166 m. Asia is joined to Europe throughout the whole length of its W. limit ; being separated from it by an arbitrary line only, part of which is formed by the Ural Mountains ; and is connected with Africa by the Isthmus of Suez. On the E., it is separated from America by Behring s Strait, where the two continents approach within 36 m. of each other. The coasts of Asia are singularly irregular ; being deeply indented all round by immense bays and gulfs, forming projections of corresponding magnitude. The prin cipal of the former are the Persian Gulf, Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal, and Gulf of Siam, on the S. coast ; the Gulf of Tonquin, Yellow Sea, Sea of Japan, Gulf of Tartary, Sea of Okhotsk, and Gulf of Anadir, on the E. coast. On the N., the indentations are equally numerous, but, with exception of the Gulf of Obe, not of the same extent. The more remark able peninsulas are those of Hindoostan, Malacca, Cochin China, Corea, and Anadir, on the S. and E. coasts. The prin cipal islands and island groups included within the limits of this division of the globe are, on the S. and E., the Laccadives, Maledives, the Chagos Archipelago, Ceylon, the Andaman and Nicobar islands, the Mergui Archipelago, Sumatra, Java, Borneo, Celebes, and the Sunda and Banda islands, the Moluc cas, Sooloo islands, Philippines, the island of Hainan, Formosa, Chusan, Hong-Kong, the Japanese empire, Sagalin or Tara- kai, and the Kuriles. On the N., Kotelnoi, Fadievsk, New Siberia, Liokoy, and, according to Humboldt, Nova Zembla. The mainland of Asia is comprised between lat. 1 15 and 78 20 N., and Ion. 27 and 190 E. If its islands are included, its S. limit will extend to lat. 11 S., the most S. point of Rotte, a small island S. of Timor. The countries comprised within its limits are Asiatic Turkey, Arabia, Persia, Beloochistan, Cabool, Punjab, Sinde, Hindoostan, Burmah, Siam, Laos, Anam, Malacca, China, Manchooria, Corea, Mon golia, Thibet, Tartary, Asiatic Russia ; and to these, and to the islands above enumerated, respectively, the reader is referred for such details as may be missed in this article, which, to avoid unnecessary repetition, is intended to be merely general. The vast extent of Asia, the diversity of its surface, and the conflicting accounts given of the physical structure of ASIA 224 ASIA large portions of its interior, particularly in Central Asia, renders it extremely difficult, if not impossible, to give such a view of its general conformation as should be at once accu rate and intelligible. It may, however, be characterized, generally, and notwithstanding its enormous elevations, as a flat country; its mean level above the sea not exceeding 1150 ft., while a third part has not more than 255 ft. of mean height. The whole of that portion lying N.W. of the Thian- Shan Mountains, or of lat. 45 N., and N. of the Altai , or of lat. 50 N., is one prodigious plain or tract of lowland, a third larger than Europe ; the elevation of which is little more than 200 to 1200 ft. The S. portion again, which stretches along the Indian Ocean, is composed, likewise, of comparatively level regions ; so is also a great part of the interior, where the eleva tions do not exceed from 2000 to 4000 ft. above the sea ; though formerly believed to be more than double the height of the lat ter amount, or 9000 ft. ; a supposition contradicted by the fact that grapes, vines, oranges, and cotton, grow there readily and \ in great abundance. It may be added, that the heights of several \ of the other plateaux of Central Asia have been greatly over- j estimated ; and that there is little doubt that, if carefully measured, most, if not all of them, would be found to fall far short of the heights at present assigned to them. Still, while a large portion of Asia is comparatively but little above the level of the sea, many extensive tracts have a great elevation, and no small part of the continent is actually below sea level. The extensive country N. and E. of the Caspian Sea, and around the Lake of Aral, forms a vast cavity of about 55,000 sq. m., all of which is below the sea level. The prodigious mountain systems of Asia are no less remarkable than its vast plains and deserts. With exception of the Ural Mountains, none of any note occur throughout the whole of N. Asia N. of lat. 50, and W. of Ion. 120 E. ; but E. of that meridian the Aldan Mountains, and the Yablonoi and Stanovoi Krebit, attain a considerable elevation. S. of lat. 50, and N. of lat. 31, are to be found the principal mountain-systems of Asia, consisting of four great ranges, tolerably parallel to each other and to the equator ; the largest extending, in an almost unbroken line, under the various names of Taurus, Elbruz, Hindoo Koosh, and Kuen-lun, from the Bosphorus to China proper, E. of the 100th meridian, forming, in a sense, the backbone of the continent. The subsidiary systems lie at various angles to the equator, but, generally speaking, they run parallel to the coasts ; the greater number, however, having a direction S.E. to N.W., as in Arabia, Persia, the coast of Malabar, the peninsula of Burmah and Anam, and Malacca; while on the coast of Coromandel, in N. India, China, Manchooria, and N.E. Siberia, the general direction is S.W. to N.E. Having thus rapidly sketched the physiognomy of the con tinent, we now proceed to notice its principal physical features in detail. Mountains. The great mountain systems of Central Asia are the Himalaya, the Altai , the Thian- Shan or Celestial Moun tains, and the Kuen-lun, all, generally speaking, parallel to the equator. The Himalaya range, the general course of which is from N.W. to S.E., consists of three parts, the Hindoo Koosh or Indian Caucasus, which extends from the Paropamisan range, in Afghanistan, to Cashmere; the Himalaya or Imaus of the ancients, which stretches from the valley of Cashmere to Bhotan, with a semi-circular inflection ; and, lastly, the moun tains of Bhotan and Assam. The entire length of the range of the Himalayas is about 1800 m. ; reckoning from the W. extremity of the Hindoo Koosh, near the rivre Dehas in Cabool, to the Brahmapootra in Assam. The mean height of these stupendous mountains has been estimated at from 1 6,000 to 20,000 ft. The highest summit yet ascertained with any degree of certainty, is that of Kunchinginga in Sikim, which is 28,178 ft. in height. Dwalagiri ranks next to it. But there are several other peaks said to be of equal, and some of even still greater elevation. The number that exceed 2 1 ,000 ft. is upwards of 40. Most of the passes are above 15,000 ft. in height, and some of them 18,000 and 19,000. The line of perpetual congelation is at an elevation, on the S. side, of 12,981 ft..; on the N., of 16,620; a result precisely the re verse of what would, a priori, be expected, but which is suj posed to be owing to the greater serenity of the sky on th N. side, the less frequent formation of snow in very cold dry | air, and the radiation of heat from the neighbouring plains, i which are much nearer than those on the S. The crest of the Himalaya is of stratified crystalline rocks, especially gneiss, with large granitic veins, and immense beds of quartz. The zone, between 15,000 and 18,000 ft. above the level of the sea, is of Silurian strata ; granite is frequent at the base, and strata of comparatively modern date occur at great elevations. Vegetation is prolonged on the Himalaya to the height of upwards of 18,000 ft. These magnificent mountains are inter sected by valleys and ravines of tremendous depth, through many of which rivers and torrents rush with inconceivable impetuosity (see HIMALAYA). The system of the Altai sur rounds the sources of the Irtish and Yenisei. The Altai proper forms little more than a fourth part of the entire system; extending from W. to E. from the confluence of the Uba and Irtish, to Mount Gurbi, and the S. of Lake Baikal. Its branches or continuations stretch under various names, first to the Gulf of Okhotsk, and afterwards to Eastern Cape, where it termin ates ; the whole length being about 4500 m. ; the breadth vary ing from 400 to 1000 m. The most prominent masses of this system, attaining the limits of perpetual snow, are situated between the parallels of 49 30 and 51 N. On the highest known summit, Bielukha, in the Russian Altai , which attains an elevation of 11,000 ft. above the sea, a glacier 1J m. in length occurs. A great portion of this chain is unknown to Europeans ; especially those branches that enter the Chinese empire. The common distinction of great and little Altai is founded on error, and therefore apt to mislead ; both the name and chain of the great Altai being, according to Hum- boldt, imaginary. (Asie Centrale, vol. i. p. 251.) See ALTAI. The Thian-Shan, or Celestial Mountains, run nearly along the 42 parallel of N. latitude, rising in Tartary and terminat ing in the desert of Gobi in Mongolia. Their highest sum mit, Bogda Oola, or Holy Mountain, is always covered with snow. Indeed, snow lies deep on the whole range in winter. Little is known of the country between the Thian-Shan Mountains and those of the Altai a space of about 400 m. in breadth. The Kuen-lun Mountains run nearly parallel with the former range, and in some parts with the Hindoo Koosli also. They rise a little to the E. of the 100th degree of E. longitude, and, under the various names of Kulkun, Aneuta, Kuen-lun, Hindoo Koosh, Elbruz, and Taurus, running W. and N.W., closely skirt the Caspian Sea and Black Sea on the S., terminating to the W. of the latter, thus forming, with the exception of the American cordillera of the Andes, the longest line of elevation on the surface of the globe. In the mountain systems of the N.E. of Asia, beyond the Altai , the ridges (from S.W. to N.E.) are of little extent and elevation when compared to the four great chains above described, running from E. to W., and which constitute, as it were, the framework of Central Asia. The other principal mountain-systems are the Ural and Caucasian Mountains, both in W. Asia, the former running N. and S., and the latter N.W. and S.E. ; the Taurus and Anti- Taurus, in Anatolia, the former S.E. to N.W., and the latter N.E. to S.W. ; the Persian moun tains, and the Western Ghauts in the Carnatic, both running S.E. to N.W. ; the Vindhaya range, in Upper India, and the Assam chain, S.W. to N.E. The numerous other chains, of greater or less extent, existing over this great continent, will be found noticed in the articles on the countries in which they occur. Volcanoes, Earthquakes, &c. The continent of Asia has few volcanoes in a state of activity, though its islands are crowded with them, Java containing a greater number than any other spot on the face of the globe. In W. Asia, the only active volcano existing is Dcmavend, 70 m. S. from tho S. shores of the Caspian Sea. It is 14,695 ft. in height, is covered with snow, and is constantly smoking. The table land of W. Asia was at one time the seat of intense commotion, now restricted to the mountain just named, to Seiban-dagh, and Ararat. In the table-land of E. Asia, the only instance of igneous explosion that occurs is in the volcanic chain of the Thian-Shan, where are two active volcanoes at the distance of 670 m. from each other, Peshan, and Ho-cheou. Thesa are the centre of an extensive volcanic district, extending N. to the Altai Mountains. Fire-hills and fire-springs are numerous in China, but, so far as is known, there are no mountains that eject lava. In Kauitschatka, however, there are no fewer than nine volcanoes in a state 01 activity. Earth quakes are frequent and violent in many parts of Asia. Th ASIA 225 ASIA places most subject to these visitations are Asia Minor, the Persian mountains, Cabool, the regions between Lake Baikal, and the volcano of Ho-cheou in the S.E. of Tartary, and in the province of Cutch in Hindoostan. An earthquake occurred in the second of these districts on January 22, 1832, the concussions of which were felt throughout a space of about 800 m. in length from N.W. to S.E., by about 450 m. in breadth, or from Lahore to near Tashkand in Middle Tartary. Another occurred in Cutch on June 16, 1819, which did much damage. Table-lands, Plains, or Steppes and Deserts. The table lands of Asia, like all the other physical features of that vast continent, are upon the most gigantic scale. That of Iran in Persia occupies an area of 1,700,000 sq. m., and is generally from 4000 to 7000 ft. above the sea, while that of Thibet comprises 7,600,000 sq. m. at a mean altitude of 11,600ft. The table-lands of the interior are frequently fertile, and enjoy genial climates, but in some instances, as in that of the table-land of Thibet, are cold and sterile, snow falling there every month in the year. Among the less extensive table lands are those of Taxila in the Punjab, of Malwah or Central India, of the Deccan, and of Mysore. Nearly the whole of N. W. Asia is one vast plain or undulating surface, occupying upwards of 7,000,000 sq. m., and in W. Asia, around the Caspian, there are extensive tracts of country many feet below the level of the sea. The groat plain or steppe of Ischim in Siberia, extends from the E. slope of the S. extremity of the Ural Mountains, across the Tobol to the Irtish, a distance of about 700 m. It is covered in part with dense forests, and abounds in game. Next to this plain is the steppe of Baraba, occupying the space between the Irtish and the Upper Obi. To the S. of these steppes is another of several hundred miles in extent, lying between the Altai Mountains and the E. confines of Tartary, and including Lake Tengiz. In the E. of China, again, there is an alluvial plain of 210,000 sq. m., most of it productive and highly cultivated, and in Hindoostan there are plains that extend 2000 m. along the S. slope of the Himalaya. The steppes of Asia generally consist of rich pastures, inter mingled with woods, barren sands, muriatiferous clay, and abounding in lakes, pools, and streams of salt and bitter waters. Deserts are numerous in Asia, and many of them of great extent. The most remarkable is that of the Great Gobi or Shamo (which see], sea of sand, occupying an area of 300,000 sq. m. in its E. extremity; its whole length being, probably, not under 1200 m. The great salt desert of Irak- Ajimi in Persia is about 390 in. in length, and 210 in breadth. There are, besides, four other deserts in this country, the whole occupying three-tenths of its entire surface. In Tar tary there are the great deserts of Kizil, Koom, and Khiva, which, with other tracts of a similar description, and equally sterile, extend over nearly half the country. The deserts or Afghanistan, N.W. Hindoostan (the Indian desert), and Thibet, are also of great extent, and on S. W. Asia are the vast deserts of Arabia, occupying many thousand square miles. Rivers and Lakes. Asia contains some of the largest rivers in the world. Those in W. Asia are the Euphrates and Tigris ; in E. Asia, the Amoor, the Hoang-Ho, the Yang-tse-Kiang, the Hong Kiang, and the Sang Koi or Tonquin River ; in N. Asia the Oby or Obi, the Irtish, the Yenisei, the Lena, the Indigirka, and the Kolyma ; in S. Asia, the Indus arid its con- tiuents, the Attok, Jhelum, Chenab, and Sutlej, the Ganges, the Brahmapootra, the Irawady, the Martaban, the Menam, and the Camboja. Some of the basins of these rivers are of vast extent. That of the Obi is 924,800 geo. sq. m., being the largest in the world with the exception of those of the Amazon and Mississippi. The basin of the Yenisei is 784,530 geo. sq. m., that of the Lena 594,400 geo. sq. m. ; while those of the Amoor, Yang-tse-Kiang, and Hoang Ho, are all above 500,000 geo. sq. m. The river of greatest length in Asia is the Yang-tse-Kiang, the development of which is 2880 geo. m.; that of the Yenisei, 2800 m. The lengths of the other principal rivers are from 1400 geo. m. to 2400. The largest lake or inland sea of Asia is the Caspian ; it has no outlet, is about 750 m. in length from N. to S., and about 230 in breadth, having an area of 18,000 sq. m. Next in extent is Lake Aral in Tartary, about 270 m. in length, and varying from 100 to 120 or 130 m. in breadth ; area, 3372 sq. m. ; it is shallow, and, like the Caspian, has no outlet. The VOL. T. other principal lakes to the E. are Lake Tengiz or Balkash, about 150 m. in length, varying in breadth from 20 to 50 m., and Lake Baikal in Irkutsk, Siberia, the largest of Alpine lakes. It is a fresh-water lake, embedded in a knot of moun tains, is of a crescent shape, and about 350 m. in length, by about 40 m. only in breadth. There are, besides, a number of smalljr lakes dispersed over the continent. A great many of them arc salt, some of them intensely so, and also bitter. Minerals. All the precious and useful minerals are found in Asia. Diamonds arc found in Bundeleund, Sumbhulpoor, Gundur, the Deccan, the Ural Mountains, Borneo, and Ceylon, and various other places. Rock-crystals, amethysts, rubies, torquoises, cornelians, agates, onyxes, beryl, lapis lazuli, to pazes, and many other precious stones, are found in numerous different quarters. Gold is found in a great many of the coun tries, but is, perhaps, most abundant in Siberia, in the Altai chain, called emphatically the Gold Mountains, in the Chinese province of Yunnan, in the mountains of the Indo-Chinese pen insula, in Japan, and in Borneo. Silver is a product of China, Asiatic Russia, Anam, and the Japanese and Ottoman Empires ; mercury of China, Thibet, Japan, India, and Ceylon. Tin is met with over all the Malay peninsula, in Burmah, China, and some of the islands of the Indian Archipelago ; copper and iron in Japan, Asiatic Russia, Thibet, Hindoostan, Anam, Persia, Asiatic Turkey; in most of which countries lead also is found. Coal has been discovered in N. China, Bengal, and in some of the islands of the Indian Archipelago, and doubt less exists in many other localities not yet explored. Salt is very generally diffused over the continent, few extensive dis tricts being altogether destitute of salt lakes or springs ; but our knowledge of the distribution of the mineral wealth of Asia, as well as on many other points, is still exceedingly im perfect. Climate. Asia, as a natural consequence of its vast extent, stretching from the polar circle to the equator, possesses every variety of climate, from excessive heat to the most intense cold ; being exceeded as regards the former, by the tropical deserts of Africa alone. This variety of climate is further increased by local influences, particularly by the great heights of its table-lands and mountains, by its compact configuration, not being deeply penetrated by gulfs, and by the great exten sion of land it presents towards the pole, and regions of per petual ice. Beyond the 56th parallel of N. lat., which includes all Siberia, the ground is permanently frozen, in some places to the depth of 630 ft. ; and a degree of cold exceeding 90 below the freezing point, is here of annual occurrence ; while, in other parts of the same region, such as Tobolsk, Barnaul, and Irkutsk ; the summers are equal to those of Berlin, Miinster, and Cherbourg, but are succeeded by winters of great severity, the mean temperature being 4 to 4 . The greatest heat experienced in Asia occurs in the province of Mukran, in Beloochistan, where, according to the natives, the unburnt bricks are made red by the scorching rays of the sun. The overpowering heat of this district corresponds with that on the Tehama of Arabia, and of the countries on the banks of the Senegal, in Africa. But the remarkable variety of climate for which Asia is distinguished, is not manifested by its larger regions alone, but is equally exhibited within the limits of its different countries down to their provinces and districts. Thus, in Afghanistan, the snow lies in some places for three months in winter ; and the thermometer sinks to from 10 to 15 below zero ; while, in summer, it ranges from 90 to 94. At Delhi, the winter s cold is sometimes 3 or 4 below freezing ; while at Calcutta, the thermometer rises to 1 1 0. These extraordinary varieties and sudden vicissitudes of climate are owing, in the greater number of instances, to corresponding elevations and depres sions of the earth s surface, but are, in some cases, the result of other influencing causes. The violent winds called typhoons prevail in S.E. Asia, between lat. 4 and 40 N. ; their sphere of action diminishing westerly, to a space in cluded between 13 and 26 N. lat. They thus comprise all China, and the empire of Anam or Cochin China, to which countries, indeed, and neighbouring seas, they seem to be almost exclusively limited. These destructive winds blow at all seasons, but rarely between May and December. The monsoons, which also prevail in this quarter of the world, extend into Asia, from their central region in the Indian Ocean, as far as lat. 36 N. ; including China, all Hindoostan, ASIA 225 ASIA the Punjab, and part of Thibet. They blow regularly from the S.W. from April to October; and from the N.E. from October to April, the change being accompanied by heavy rain, and violent storms of thunder and lightning. South of the equator, the monsoons blow from the S.E. and N. W. during the same periods. The rainless regions of Asia are of vast extent ; one of these extends from Delhi in N. Hindoo- stan, to near Nertchinsk in S.E. Siberia, a distance of about 2500 in., with a width of nearly half that extent. It thus includes part of Thibet, the great desert of Gobi, and part of Mongolia a space estimated to comprise two millions of sq. in. The other is the continuation of the vast rainless region, which, commencing on the borders of Morocco, terminates in Bcloochistan, of which latter it includes the greater part; with a large portion of Persia, the N. part of Arabia, and the S. of Syria. Vegetation. The vegetation of Asia is aa various as its climate ; and is further diversified by geographical position, and by the higher or lower elevations on which it is exhibited. The extreme S. portions only, including Anam, Siam, the Malay peninsula, Burmah, peninsular Hindoostan, the shores of the Persian Gulf, and Arabia, exhibit the characteristic features of tropical vegetation, excepting in partial instances ; the other portions display those of temperate regions, extend ing N. into those of the arctic zone. In W. Asia, the veget ation approaches nearly to that of India at the one extremity, and to that of Europe at the other. N. of the Altai and Yablonoi Krebit Mountains, perhaps the most characteristic vegetation is the pine tribes, which pervade this part of the continent throughout its whole extent. On the E. coast, the pines descend S. through Manchooria and China, to near the tropic of Cancer ; and in the W. of Asia, they proceed in a S.E. direction, from the Caucasus Mountains along the plateau of Iran to the Himalaya Mountains, over all which the species are plentiful, and thus nearly quite encircle Mongolia and Thibet, regarding whose vegetation comparatively little is yet known. The S. parts of the continent, comprising Arabia, S. Persia, Beloochistan, India, Burmah, Anam, Malacca, the S. part of China, and the islands of the Indian Archipelago, are altogether a palm region. No cereals are cultivated in Asia N. of about lat. 62 N. From that parallel, S. to the Altai, there are two regions ; the most N. characterized by the cultivation of barley, oats, and rye ; and the most S. by that of rye and wheat. Over both, buckwheat and potatoes are raised. The W. part of the continent, S. of the Altai to about lat. 26 N., is wholly a wheat region, excepting the coasts of Anatolia and Syria, where maize is likewise culti vated. On the W. coast of Arabia, and in the S. of Persia and Beloochistan, and the N. of India, wheat and rice are cultivated. The whole of S. India, and the littoral countries of the E. coast, as far N. as the S. end of the island Sagalin, including the Japanese Islands, and the islands of the Indian Archipelago, are characterized by the cultivation of rice. The tea plant is cultivated over nearly the whole of China and Cochin-China, between lat. 17 and 35 N., and Ion. 94 and 120 E., which includes Upper Assam; but is most suc cessful between the parallels of 25 and 33 N. which com prehends the principal tea districts. It is also cultivated in the Japanese Islands. Cotton is grown in Central and S. India, Burmah, Siam, Anam, and China. Sugar in Bengal, and the other countries to the E. j ust named ; also, in Malacca and Java. Ceylon and Java are famed for their coffee, which is also grown on the coast of Malabar, i;> Sumatra, and the Philip pines. Cinnamon luxuriates in Ceylon, probably its native seat, and is grown in Anam ; and nutmegs, cloves, and peppers, have long been known as the products of the famed spice islands of the Indian Archipelago. In these latter localities, also, the sago-palm attains the highest perfection ; and in many of them, as well as on the continent of India, the valuable indigo-plant is grown. Nor would it do, even in this short and imperfect enumeration of the vegetable riches of Asia, to overlook that most valuable, and at the same time most baneful plant, the poppy (Ptqiaver somniferum], which flourishes in the S. parts of Anatolia, in Syria, and E. into India. Zoology. Asia has 288 mammalia, of which 102 are pecu liar; 64 species of ruminating animals, of which 46 are peculiar; 60 genera of carnivorous animals, and 180 species of apes and monkeys, all of which are entirely Asiatic. The quadrupeds of the continent and islands include the elephant, rhinoceros, camel, lion, tiger, leopard, panther, hyena, tapir, wolf, bear, wild boar, hog, dog, antelope, deer, chamois, stag, ox, buffalo, horse, goat, sheep, wild ass, monkey, ape, fox, hare, squirrel, jackal, elk, martin cat, wild cat, weasel. The habitat of the elephant extends from the S. point of Sumatra, lat. 6 S. through that island, across the peninsula of Malacca, over the S. province of China, throughout all India, including Ceylon, to nearly lat. 30 N. It is also met with on the Himalayas, at a height of 5000 or 6000 feet, and roams wild in immense herds through the forests and jungles at the foot of these mountains. The habitat of the rhinoceros is nearly the same, only extending a little further N. in China. The camel is a native of Asia, where, from the earliest ages, it has formed the chief means of communication between the different regions of the East. The greatest numbers, and the best, are produced in Arabia. The camel of Central Asia is the Bactrian camel, which has two humps ; it is stronger and more muscular than the common or Arabian camel, and its hair much more rough and shaggy. The latter is the only description of camel known in other parts of Asia, where it occurs chiefly in a domesticated state. The Asiatic lion has no mane, and is confined to a comparatively limited region, extending from Mount Zerdah Koh, in the Persian plateau, lat. 32 N., to Goojerat and the jungle countries of India on the E., and to the districts bordering on the Euphrates on the W. The tiger of Asia (royal tiger) has its chief habitat in the sultry jungles of Bengal, and the islands of Java and Sumatra; but it occasionally wanders as far as the Altai and Himalaya Mountains, which it ascends to a height of J600 ft. in search of prey, and to the mountains of Persia and Armenia ; it also penetrates into Siberia, and is distributed over Corea, Siam, Tonquin, and the Malay peninsula, where it abounds. But the tiger of the N. and E. regions of Asia, though equally large and strong, differs considerably in its nature from the tiger of Bengal, being much less ferocious, seldom attacking man during the day-time. The leopard, panther, and hyena are common, and are met with everywhere, with the excep tion, as regards the last, of the Burman empire, in which there are neither hyenas, wolves, foxes, nor jackals. The leopard, like the tiger, ascends the Himalaya Mountains to great heights. The tapir is confined to the Malay peninsula, the S. provinces of China, and the Asiatic Archipelago, inhabiting the forests of Sumatra, and the N. parts of Borneo. Aniflngst the most remarkable of the Asiatic bears are the Syrian bear, which is seldom met with ; the Thibet bear, an inhabitant of the mountains of Silhet and Nepaul ; and the sun-bear of Sumatra. It is thought probable that the brown bear exists in Siberia and Kamtchatka, but this has not been ascertained. The wild boar and hog are very generally distributed over Asia, and several of the islands of the Asiatic Archipelago, particularly Celebes, Booroo, and some of the Xulla Islands, which are inhabited by a singular species, called Sus babi/- roussa. The dog tribe abounds in the tropical province of Asia, the greatest number of species, next to Africa, being found there ; but there are none in India beyond the Ganges, and in the Indian Archipelago only two species are known. The musk-deer inhabits the mountainous countries of Central and S.E. Asia, between China and Tartary, and in the regions extending from Lake Baikal to the Altai Mountains ; it is also common in Nepaul, Bhotan, Thibet, and the adjacent countries of China and Tonquin. Four other species of deer occur in India, Ceylon, Sumatra, and Borneo. The rein-deer occurs in the N. parts of Asia ; the fallow-deer in the N. parts of Persia and China; the common stag or red-deer, and the roe buck, in Siberia, between the Altai Mountains and the Lena. Ten species of antelopes are peculiar to Asia, two of which belong to the table-lands, the others are distributed in the Asiatic Archipelago. Various kinds of oxen have been domesticated in India from time immemorial. The most remarkable of these are the Indian ox, which has a hump on the shoulder; and the Tartary ox, with a beautiful white silky [ tail. The buffalo is native in China, India, Borneo, and the ! Sunda Islands ; it is a large animal, and in its wild state for midable, but is universally domesticated. The horse is now known only as a domestic animal in Asia, although believed to have at one time run wild in the central plains of that con tinent. The greatest number of species of the goat family occurs in Asia, one of the most celebrated being the goat of ASIA 227 ASIA Cashmere, which is also spread over Thibet, where they browze at elevations of from 10,000 to 13,000 feet. Another species, called the Dzeran or yellow goat, is both swift and shy. The sheep is originally from the countries of W. Asia, and, like the goats, is most numerous in this part of the world. They also browze at great heights ; a species called the ras, with straight spiral horns, living on the table-lands of Pamer, at an elevation of 15,000 ft. above the sea. The wild ass or onagra of Tartary, a lively and handsome animal, of great speed, is regarded as the origin of the common ass. It inhabits the dry mountainous parts of Great Tartary, ranging, in sum mer, as far as lat. 48 N. Whole herds of them are seen in motion, also, as far as the deserts of the Lower Indus ; but they are distributed chiefly over the E. provinces of Persia. The wild ass of Cutch and N. Goojerat, is not found further E. than Ion. 75 E., on the S. side of the Himalaya Mountains ; it especially frequents the salt deserts and open plains of Jodhpoor, Jaymlmeer, and Bickaneer. Wild asses abound, likewise, on the elevated regions of Thibet, on the shores of the lakes of Manasarowar and Rakastal, at a height of more than 15,250 ft. above the sea. Of the ape and monkey tribe Asia has 180 species. Monkeys are found only on the coast of India, Cochin-China, and the Sunda Islands ; apes in the Sunda Islands, Malayan peninsula, Sumatra, and Bencoolen ; the orang-outang in Sumatra and Borneo ; the latter, and the Chimpanzee of Africa, approach the nearest to man. The Asiatic species of gnawers are all, with the exception of the jerboa, which burrows in sandy deserts, confined to Siberia; the most remarkable of these is the flying squirrel. At the junction of Europe and Asia, on the coasts of the Black Sea and the Caucasus, the European and Asiatic forms of animals are mixed, and pass into each other. The chief haunts of the reptilia of Asia are the N. and N.E. parts of Hindoostan ; between about Ion. 78 and 100 E., and between the Himalayas and the Bay of Bengal ; China, in a less degree ; the islands of Ceylon, Sumatra, Celebes, and Java, in the latter in greater numbers and variety than in any other part of the world. The reptile fauna of Asia, so far as known, comprises only 44 species, but there is little doubt that many more remain to be added to the list. At the head of this class of animals stands the crocodile, the Asiatic genera of which is the Gavial (Gavialis Gangeticus), frequenting the Ganges and other great Indian rivers. The crocodile with the helmet (Crocodilus galeatus), and the double-crested crocodile (Croco- dilus biporcatus), are numerous in various quarters, both con tinental and insular. There are 10 species of frogs peculiar to Asia, and nine species of toads ; but of the former three only belong to the mainland, the others are distributed through the islands, two being peculiar to Japan. Amongst the ser pents of Asia are the Cobra da Capello, and a species of Tri- gonocephalus, both amongst the most dangerous snakes in existence ; vipers, two species of which are peculiar to Asia. Tree-serpents, inhabiting the great tropical forests ; boa con strictors, pythons, the largest snake of the eastern world; chameleons, fresh-water tortoises, of which eight are peculiar to Asia. Sea and fresh-water snakes are also numerous ; the former swarm in the Indian Ocean, and many of them are extremely venomous and ferocious. The number and variety of birds in Asia is too great to attempt either enumeration or description ; they include eagles, vultures, falcons, buzzards, quails, pheasants, partridges, star lings, herons, storks, cranes, swans, wild ducks, pelicans, nightingales, &c. In S.E. Asia and the islands of the Indian Archipelago, birds of the most gorgeous plumage abound ; while several of those above mentioned, though bearing European names, here present themselves in the splendid hues of the tropics. Asia is peculiarly prolific in gallinaceous fowls, some of them possessing most brilliant plumage. Among these may be named the horned pheasants of the Himalaya, a species of Tragophans, the gold and silver pheasants of China, and the Argus pheasant of Sumatra and Borneo. A large gallinaceous fowl (Megapodius), of remarkable habits, is found in some of the islands of the Indian Archipelago ; and to this region, or to the S. part of continental Asia, we are indebted for that most valuable of domestic fowls, the common cock and hen. The same or similar species of insects and fishes being dif fused over a very wide extent of country, it becomes much more difficult to adduce such as peculiarly characterize any particular locality than when dealing with quadrupeds, which are not endowed with the same facilities of locomotion. "We shall, therefore, on these departments of zoology, refer the j reader to the separate articles on the countries composing Asia, in which the more prominent genera of insects and fishes frequenting them will be noticed. Races of Asia, Language, and Religion. Asia is supposed to have been the cradle of the human race. It contains a vast variety of tribes and nations. The great divisions or families consist of the Caucasian group, the Mongol-Tartar group, and the Malayan, and Ethiopian nations. The first occupy nearly the whole of W. Asia, the Himalaya to the Brahmapootra, and all India between these mountains and the j ocean. The Mongol- Tartar family occupies all Asia N. of the Persian table-land and of the Himalaya, the whole of E. Asia from the Brahmapootra to Behring s Strait ; it. includes the Mongol and Tartar tribes, the Chinese, Indo-Chinese, and Japanese. The Malay nations occupy the Indian Archipelago. The Ethiopian, Ceylon, Borneo, Sumbawa, Timor, and, ex clusively or partially, numerous other islands. These great divisions of the Asiatic population are again subdivided into numerous tribes, most of which will be noticed in detail in the respective articles on the various countries of Asia. Of the four principal groups mentioned, the Caucasian is the hand somest, and probably the most intellectual, though this admits of question. A portion of the Mongol-Tartar race are also capable of high culture, especially the Chinese. The Kalmuks, a branch of the same family, who lead a pastoral life on the steppes of Central Asia, are an intelligent and well-formed race. The Malayan nations are dark, with lank, coarse black hair, flat faces, aud obliquely set eyes. They are active, ingenious, mild, and gentle, in some places ; in others, fierce and vindictive. The distinguishing physical characteristics of the Ethiopians are well known to consist of a black complexion, black woolly or frizzled hair, thick lips, projecting jaws, high cheek-bones, and large prominent eyes. The most numerous of the great Asiatic races is the Mongolian, next the Caucasian, then the Malay, and, lastly, the Ethiopian, frequently now called the Papuan race, which is estimated at a million only. The languages of Asia are nearly as numerous as its tribes, there being, according to Aderburg, no fewer than 937 different dialects. The prevailing religions of Asia are Brahmanism and Buddhism ; the former being professed in Hindoostan, the latter in China, Japan, Anam, Siam, the Burman Empire, Ceylon, and amongst the Mongols and Tunguzes. In the S.W. of Asia, Islamism prevails; and Mussulmans are numerous in India, Malacca, and many parts of the Indian Archipelago. There are multitudes of other sects in various parts of the continent. History. The term Asia, the origin of which is unknown, was first applied to a small province of the peninsula now called Anatolia or Asia Minor, but has since been gradually extended to the whole Asiatic continent. The early history of Asia may be regarded as that of the world. Here the human race was first planted ; and here also, from the few survivors of the deluge, arose in succession the primitive families, tribes, nations, and dynasties, of whose history only a few fragments remain. The ancient history of Asia is thenceforth divisible into four great epochs, of unequal dura tion, corresponding with the existence of four great dynasties the Assyrian or Babylonian, the Medo-Persian, the Gre cian, and the lionian, which last may be considered as extend ing to the period of the Mahometan conquest, in A.n. 638. It was during this latter period, and when its power was at its height, that the introduction and establishment of Christianity took place. This event formed a new era in the history of man, and became the source of great and favourable changes, both in the physical and moral state of society. It has given a tone to all succeeding history, and, apart from its blessed results to our race, must, even in a mere historical point of view, be regarded as the most important event that has ever occurred, not only in the history of Asia, but of the whole world. During this long period geography had made little progress. By Ptolemy s account, it would appear that not more than about a fourth of the continent of Asia was known to the ancients, who divided it into Asia citerior, and Asia ulterior; the former corresponding with the modern Anatolia or Asia Minor, and the latter with the rest of Asia then known. The next division of Asiatic history is that which compre hends what are usually termed the Middle Ages, extending ASIA 223 ASIR from the commencement of the Mahometan era to the end of the 15th century, when Vasco de Gania discovered a passage to India by the Cape of Good Hope. In less than a century after the Hegira, or flight of Mahomet from Mecca, in G 22, his imposture, which was destined to exercise so great and permanent an influence in the Eastern world, had been spread over a territory extending S. and N. from the lied Sea to the Caspian, and E. and "W. from the confines of Tartary and India to the shores of the Atlantic. In 1037, the Tartars, under Togrul Beg, subdued Persia, and his successors con quered India, Tartary, Syria, and Egypt. They also took and plundered Jerusalem, and by their cruelties towards the Christian pilgrims to that city, aroused, throughout Europe, a feeling of indignation which led to the crusades. These memorable expeditions were undertaken in succession during a period of 200 years, commencing about 1095, and drew into their cause some of the most powerful kings and most noted warriors of the Middle Ages. After various changes, the dominion of the Saracens, about the middle of the 13th cen tury, ultimately extended, under the sway of Kublai Khan, over all the provinces of W. Asia. The crusades, and other con temporary circumstances, had contributed, in a more remark able degree than formerly, to direct the mind of Europe towards Asia ; and the result was, the establishment of perma nent commercial relations between them. About 1250, two Venetian noblemen, Nicolo and Maffio Polo, visited Asia as merchants, taking with them Nicolo s son Marco, who was afterwards the most celebrated Asiatic traveller of the Middle Ages. During a residence of 24 years at the Tartar court, by which he was frequently employed as an ambassador, he traversed most of China, a considerable part of India, Java, Ceylon, and perhaps several other countries, making also a few voyages along the S. coast of Asia. He likewise col lected much information regarding places which he never visited ; and his correct description of countries formerly un known to Europeans, must be considered as having laid the foundation of modern Asiatic geography. After him several travellers published notices of Asia ; but their relations, in general, are full of fables, and the partial knowledge of China, and of portions of Northern and Central Asia, gleaned princi pally from the travels of Polo, with the discovery, by liubru- quis, that the Caspian is an inland sea, must be regarded as all the geographical knowledge that the Middle Ages have furnished, in addition to that possessed by the ancients. At length, the Portuguese navigator, Vasco de Gama, in 1498, doubled the Cape of Good Hope, and, opening a new channel of intercourse with the E., ultimately led to a more accurate and more extensive knowledge of its geography. From the end of the 15th century to the present times, the history of Asia has gradually risen in importance, and the progress of j its geography has been much advanced. Within a few years after the arrival of De Gama on the Indian coast, the Portu guese had acquired a complete knowledge of the whole coast, from Cape Comorin to the Bay of Cambay, and effected settle ments in the kingdoms of Camboja, Cochin-China, Tonquin, j China, and all the fertile islands of the great Indian Archi pelago. At the death of their famous naval commander and hero, Albuquerque, in 1515, their colonies were established at various points of the Asiatic coast, and extended from the Cape of Good Hope to the empire of Japan, a distance of at least 12,000 m. In 1600, the Portuguese encountered a new competitor and formidable enemy in the Dutch, who sent several commercial expeditions to the E. by the Cape of Good Hope, and, by 1G40, had made themselves masters of all the E. islands and seas, with the exception of some British settle ments on the coast of Sumatra. The Dutch, however, in extending their settlements, acted chiefly on mercantile prin ciples, and have not added much to our geographical know ledge. Their most important contribution was through the German naturalist, E. Kiimpfer, who has given a good de scription of Japan, in which he resided, in the capacity of Dutch physician, from 1G84 to 1692. During the protracted contest between the Dutch and Portuguese, the N. part of Asia, not previously known either to ancients or moderns, suddenly emerged from obscurity. Russia, having thrown off the Tartar yoke in 1461, proceeded to enlarge her dominion by the conquest of Kasar in 1552, and Astrakhan in 1555, thereby extending our geographical knowledge over the basins of the Don. "Wolga, and Ural, up to the Ural Mountains. In 1578, Yermak, a hetman of the Cossacks, having crossed the Ural range with his troop, entered Siberia, the discovery and survey of which were pursued so vigorously, that, in 1644, the mouth of the Ainoor was reached; and, in 1648, Deshncff, another hetman, proved the separation of Asia from America by an open sea, by sailing round the N.E cape from the mouth of the Kowyma to that of the Anadir. Some what later, a complete geographical view of the vast empire of China and part of Central Asia was obtained from the Jesuits, who, having risen to high favour in China, actually published a map of China, under the authority and at the expense of the Chinese Government. The attention of Britain had long been directed to Asia, and the discovery of the pas sage by sea had given a new impulse to their views in that quarter. For many years after that event, frequent voyages of discovery were made by British navigators, and several embassies and other journeys were performed by British sub jects on land. But the formation of the E. India Company, in 1600, which ultimately established British authority in the j E., has done more than any other event to extend our geo- J graphical knowledge in that quarter. At first the new infor mation obtained was scanty, but from 1 740, during the wars with the French in the Deccan, and more especially from 1 757, after the conquest of Bengal, it rapidly increased ; numerous expeditions, both military and exploring, have been made, and the quantity of unknown territory is at length circum scribed within comparatively narrow bounds. Population. The entire population of Asia is estimated at 480,000,000, which is considerably more than half the entire population of the globe. They are thus divided Cauca sian race, 164,000,000; Mongolian, 291,000.000; Malay, 24,000,000 ; Ethiopian, 1,000,000, of which the islands are supposed to contain between 50,000 and 60,000. (Balbi s Abnge; Foreign Quarterly Review ; Humboldt s Asie Central/", Aspects of Nature, Cosmos, &c. ; Murray s Cyclopedia of Geo graphy ; Travels of Marco Polo ; Historical and Descriptive Account of British India; Johnston s Physical Atlas; Mrs, Sommervi lie s Physical Geography; Lyell s Geology; &c.) ASIA MINOR. See ANATOLIA. ASIAGO, a tn. and dist. Austrian Lombardy, gov. Venice, prov. Vicenza. The town, cap. of the dist., stands on the ridge of an eminence, 40 m. N.E. by N. Verona; and is celebrated for the manufacture of straw hats, of which vast numbers are made here annually. Pop. 4670. The DISTRICT is known by the name of the Seven Communes (Sette Comuni). It is generally well wooded ; and is very productive in cattle and sheep, great numbers of which are reared throughout the territory. It is also famous for its turnery, cabinet-work, and other manufactures in wood. The inhabitants are of German descent. Pop. 25,500. ASIATIC ARCHIPELAGO. See INDIAN Ancm- P EL AGO. AS1MAGOMY, a lake, Upper Canada ; the centre in lat. 48 35 N. ; Ion. 85 30 W. It is about 12 m. in length, with a breadth varying from 2 to 4 m., and discharges itself into the K. extremity of Lake Superior, by a stream about 36 m. long. ASINALUNGA [anc. Ad Meusulas], a tn. and coin. Tuscany, prov. of, and 22 m. S.S.W. Arezzo, on the E. de clivity of a hill in the plain of the Chiana. It is well built, has wide and well-paved streets, a handsome collegiate church, in which are many fine paintings ; an hospital, and a theatre. The surrounding country is well watered and fertile. Pop. 7767. (Dizio Univ. Italia.) ASINAKA, a small isl. off the N.W. extremity of the island of Sardinia, 2 m. N. Cape Falcone ; lat. 41 5 N. ; Ion. 8 18 15" E. (R.) It is about 10 m. long by 2 broad ; moun tainous, but fertile, and has a great deal of excellent pasturage. The coast abounds with fish. It is now inhabited by a few shep herds and fishermen only. It has a good lighthouse, and an excellent port, called Trabuccato. ASIR, an independent state, Arabia, occupying the high land on the confines of Hejaz, Yemen, and Nejd. It appears to be of recent origin, for it was unknown to Niebuhr; and though Burckhardt mentions the tribe of the Asfr, yet he docs not seem to have heard of a state so called. The limits of Asfr are formed by deserts or impassable mountains, and, like the boundary lines of all other Arabian states, do not admit of being precisely defined. Nearly in the 18th parallel of latitude, a number of small streams or torrents water the ASIR 229 ASNIERES fertile valley of Khamfr Misheft, enclosed within the rocky summits of the maritime chain of mountains. If the opening of this valley N., be followed, it leads to Wady Shehran, which is also well watered; still further N., or N.E., extend the valleys of Mamaleh Kebi r, and Mamdleh Saghfr (great and little Mamaleh), the latter called also Hama*mah from Hamiim, the name of a bird resembling a dove in size and figure, but with brilliant plumage. A little below Wady Hama mah, the narrow bed of an occasional torrent with a well sunk in it, marks, in the sandy plain, the N. boundary of Asfr, towards Hejaz. This point is probably not far from the parallel of 19 10 . The chain of valleys forming the main portion of the territory of Asfr may be presumed, therefore, to extend about 80 m. in length. The obvious advantages of this country are, first, its numerous mountain streams, which, with the aid of canals, irrigate a wide extent of cultivated land; and, secondly, its natural strength and general inaccessibility ; for though an overpowering force may march through the central valleys of Asfr, it cannot follow the inhabitants to the hills, so as to complete their subjugation. The streams seem to flow collectively into the river of Wady Bisheh, which has water constantly, and fertilizes a tract of about 45 m. in length ; though the Arabs, in their usual style of exaggeration, say that it reaches to the gates of Bagdad. The rivulets are diy during half of the year ; but water may generally be found in their beds at a moderate depth ; and when iieavy rain falls in violent thunderstorms (in August, and perhaps in May also), they are speedily converted into violent and impassable torrents. To persons arriving from Wady Bisheh, which is low and sultry, the air of this elevated region feols cool and humid ; there is not, however, any posi tive ground for supposing that the mountains of Asfr rise to a great height. The favoured valleys of this country have probably an elevation of from 3000 to 4000 ft., while the rocky crests around them may rise 1000 or 1500 ft. higher. Granite seems to be the prevailing rock in the eastern chain ; higher up in Asfr, M. Tamisier thought that he found marble, with ores of tin and lead. In the lower valleys, the date-palm grows to a great height, but the dates are inferior to those of Wady Bisheh ; cotton is also cultivated ; higher up, the date- groves are interspersed with almonds, figs, apricots, peaches, and vines ; the sides of the hills, where they offer any soil, being clothed with forests of sidr, or pine-like juniper. The valley of Khamfr Misheft, the most elevated part of Asir, produces wheat, barley, durrah (Ifolcits sorghum), and excellent fruit in abundance. The middle of the valley in the neighbourhood of the stream is usually resigned to cultivation ; while the villages are perched on the surrounding heights, enclosed by walls, and otherwise fortified after the fashion of the country. In some places, as in Wady Hama mah, each house is a little fort. The houses are generally two stories high, built of sun-dried bricks, and with roofs varying in different situations from flat to pointed, according to the local climate, and the violence of the rains. The ground-floor is given up to the cattle. The door of the house is but a foot wide, so that it may be made of a single date-tree plank. Besides the loop- holed and narrow-doored walls of the villages, which bear witness to the frequency of feuds and intestine wars, there are also regular fortresses, strong, against native means of attack, near all the principal date plantations. It was in the war waged by Mehemet Ali with the Wahdbi, that the importance of Asfr first came to light ; the resources of that country, and the courage of its inhabitants, proved the Pasha of Egypt s chief obstructions. Having subdued the Waha"bi, therefore, he turned his arms against the mountaineers of Asfr, and, between 1824 and 1837, the Egyptian army made three campaigns against them, which all proved unsuccessful ; the invaders being either beaten in the field, as in the first cam paign, or worn out and famished in marches through deserted villages, surrounded by a vigilant enemy, who allowed them no rest, and cut off all supplies, till at last they were com pelled to negotiate a peace, which virtually amounted to permission to retreat unmolested. The people of Asfr are bigoted followers of Abd-el- Wahab, by whom, it is said, they were first converted to Mahometanisrn, in the beginning of the last century; and many of their rites among others, their mode of circumcising still retain a pagan character. (Jomard, Etudes Gcog. et Hist, sur V Arabic, 1839; Tami sier, Voyage dans I Arabic, 1837.) ASIEMTNTAR, an active volcano in the island of One- kotan or Anakutan, the most northerly of the Kurile Islands ; lat. 49 40 N. ; Ion. 155 8 E. Its height is not ascertained. ASK, or ASEK, a to. Persia, prov. Mazanderan, dist. Larijan, of which it is the cap., about 12 m. N. by E. Mount Demaveud, r. bank, Ileraz ; lat. 36 N. ; Ion. 52 8 E. ; at a height of 5900 ft. above the level of the sea. It contains from 1000 to 1500 houses. ASKEATON, amarket-tn. and par. Ireland, co. Limerick. The town is on the river Deel, about 2 m. above its junction with the Shannon, 16 m. W.S.W. Limerick. In the reign of Charles I., it was a large walled town, but is now a mere vil lage. The parish church was formerly that of the Commandery of Knights Templars, founded in 1298. There are here also a R. catholic chapel and several schools. The ruins of a Franciscan monastery, founded in 1420, are beautifully situ ated close to the Deel ; which at high water is navigable for vessels of GO tons up to the town. It is crossed by an old bridge of five arches, which connects the two parts of the town. The principal trade is in grain and flour. Area of par. 6521 ac. Pop. (1811), par. 4438; tn. 1862. ASKERNE, a vil. England, co. York, W. Hiding, 7j m. N. Doncaster, pleasantly situated on a rocky acclivity, ascend ing gradually from an extensive plain. It has risen during the present century from an obscure hamlet to an elegant and fashionable watering-place, through the celebrity of its sul phurous spring. The accommodation provided for visitors is very complete ; the hotels, baths, boarding-houses, &c., being all of the first class, and most of them agreeably situated in the midst of gardens and orchards. Permanent pop. in 1841 , 468. ASKERSWELL, a par. England, co. Dorset; 2330 ac.; E. Bridport. Pop. in 1841, 233. ASKHAM, three parishes, England : 1 , A par. and town ship, co. Westmorland ; 3000 ac. ; S. Penrith. Pop. in 1841, 635. 2, (Bryan], a par. and township, co. York; 1920 ac. ; W.S.W. York. Pop. in 1841, 342. 3, (Richard], a par., co. York; 960 ac. ; S.W. York. Pop. in 1841, 232. ASKRIGG, a small market-tn. and chapelry, England, co. York, N. Riding. The town is built on an acclivity, and consists of one street, well paved, and kept very clean. The houses are of stone, slated, and substantial. There is an ample supply of water from springs in the vicinity. It con tains a church and a place of worship belonging to the W T es- leyan Methodists, and a school supported by subscription. There is also a grammar-school at the distance of about a mile, which is now (1850) being rebuilt. Near the town are six alms-houses for poor widows. The only manufactory in the town is a small mill for dressing wool for stocking-making. Market- clay, Thursday, but very indifferently attended. There are four fairs in the year for cattle and horses. These arc held in May, June, July, and September, that in July is the largest sheep fair in Yorkshire. The country around is wild and mountainous, and has many picturesque waterfalls. Area of chapelry, 4790 ac. Pop. in 1841, 726. ASLA, or ASSELA, a vil. Algeria, 149 m. S. Oran ; lat. 33 32 N. ; Ion. 30 W. It is situated on the edge and crest of a plateau, on a small stream of the same name, which waters the little gardens that compose the principal riches of the inhabitants. The village consists of about sixty badly- built, damp, and unhealthy houses, arranged so closely to gether that their exterior fronts, almost without opening in them, serve the purpose of walls. From a little distance the village presents the appearance of a ruined castle of the Middle Ages. In the centre is a sort of square, from which lead four little streets, conducting to all the houses, and to the mosque. It is a storing-place for the grain of certain nomadic tribes of the vicinity. (Bui. Geo. Soc.) ASLACKBY, a par. England, co. Lincoln ; 4810 ac. ; N. Folkingham. Pop. in 1841, 507. ASLACTON, a par. England, co. Norfolk; 1310 ac. ; W.S.W. St. Mary Stratton, near the London and Norwich Railway. Pop. in 1841, 404. ASMANNSHAUSEN. See ASSMANNSHAOSEN. ASNA. &ESNEH. ASNIERES, the name of several villages in France, one of which, agreeably situated on the 1. bank of the Seine, arrond. St. Denis, and about 4 m. from Paris, forms a station of the railway from Paris to St. Germain. The Versailles ASOLA ASSAM railroad here branches off to the left, and the Rouen railway to the right. Before entering the village, the Seine is crossed by a railway bridge of five arches. Pop. 702. AS( )L A, a small fortified tn. Austrian Lonibardy, 20 m. N.W. Mantua, on the Chiesc. It has an hospital, and a silk spinning factory ; and is a place of high antiquity. Pop. 4000. ASOLO, a small tn. Austrian Lombardy, 20 in. N.W. Treviso ; agreeably situated on a hill. It has an old cathedral, some elegantly-built houses, and the remains of a Koman bath and aqueduct. Near the middle of the town is an extensive old castle, now uninhabited, formerly the residence of Catherine Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus. The inhabitants rear silkworms. A little E. of the town is the freestone quarry of Kocca. Pop. 3400. ASOPH. See AZOF. ASOPO [anc. Asopus], a river, Greece; it has its source about lat. 38 16 N.; Ion. 23 23 E.; 6 m. S.S.W. Thiva or Thebes, and 27 m. W. by N. Athens. It falls into the channel of Negropont, lat. 38 24 N.; Ion. 23 47 E., after an E. by N. course of about 25 m. ASP ALL, a par. England, co. Suffolk ; 1240 ac. ; S. Eye. Pop. in 1841, 132. ASPATKIA, a par. and township, England, co. Cumber land ; 8610 ac. ; N.E. Maryport, near the Maryport and Carlisle Kailway. Pop. in 1841, 1921. ASPE, a tn. Spain, in Valencia, prov. of, and 17 m. W. Alicante, at the foot of a low hill, near the river Elcha ; having tolerably good houses, streets somewhat narrow and winding, a church, townhousc, hospital, prison, abattoir, several schools, a cemetery, and two squares, in one of which is a fountain. Besides flourmills, there are here 18 oilmills, five soap manufactories, and 10 brandy -distilleries. The commerce consists chiefly of oil, wine, and brandy. Pop. 6744. ASPE, a valley, France, dep. Basses-Pyrenees, extend ing about 27 m. S. to N., from Mount Aspe to the ridge of the ; Pyrenees Iie ar Oleron. It contains about 15 villages, the j inhabitants of which are are mostly shepherds. Very little j grain is grown ; but a great quantity of timber for shipbuilding is felled, and floated down to Bayonne by the Gave d Aspe, which traverses the valley, and, joining the Gave d Oleron, passes into the Adour. The valley contains a quarry of alabaster. ASPEDEN, a par. England, co. Herts; 1620 ac.; S.W. Buntingford. Pop. in 1841, 529. ASPEKEN, a tn. Holland, prov. S. Holland, 20 m. E.N.E. Dort, 1. bank, Linge, in form of a parallelogram, ; walled, with four gates. Formerly it was strongly fortified, and had two castles, the ruins of one of which still exist. It j has a townhouse ; a church, built early in the 15th century ; ! a school, and two annual fairs for cattle and horses, held in April and October, of which the latter, for sheep especially, is the greatest in Holland. Pop. 1200. ASPERG, ASBERG, or HOHEN-ASBERG, a tn. Wurtem- berg, circle, Neckar, bail, of, and 3 m. W.N.W. Ludwigsburg. At a short distance to the N. is the ancient fortress of Hohen- Asberg, upon an isolated rock, 1100 ft. above the sea level ; the only strong place in the kingdom, and now, or recently, used as a military and state prison. Pop. 1570. ASPERN, or GROSS AsrERN, a vil. archduchy of Aus tria, r. bank, Danube, nearly opposite Vienna. It was, with the villages of Essling and Engendorf, the scene of a sanguin ary battle, fought between 100,000 French, under Napoleon, ! and 75,000 Austrians, under the Archduke Charles, on May 21 and 22, 1809. On this occasion the French sustained great loss. Marshal Lannes and several of their generals were killed, and they were forced to retreat to the island of Lobau. ASPLEY-GUlSE,apar. England, co. Bedford; 1960 ac.; N. by W. VVoburn. Pop. in 1841, 1139. ASPROPOTAMOS, or ASPRO POTOMO [anc. Acliclous], a river, Turkey and Greece, having its source in the former, and its termination on the W. shore of the latter. It rises in the Mezzovo Mountains, part of the Pindus range ; lat. 39 50 N.; Ion. 21 21 E; about 20 m. E. Janina, and a few miles only from the sources of the Arta. From this point it flows due S., enters Greece at lat. 39 3 N., traverses Liradia from N. to S., and now, taking a S.W. by W. direction, falls into the Ionian Sea, near Cape Skropha, on the N. side of the entrance into the Gulf of Patras ; its whole course being about J20m. ASSAB (BAY OF), Abyssinia, about 40 m. N.W. the nar rowest part of the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb ; lat. 12 55 N. : Ion. 42 45 E. It is 16 m. in length, and upwards of 5 m. in width, at the broadest part; bounded, S.E. and E., and N.E. and N., by islands, the largest of which is Darmabah, nearly 20 m. in circumference ; very low, and partly covered with jungle. The soundings inside the bay are 6 and 7 fathoms mud. Wood may be procured on the islands, but water is scarce and brackish. ASSAL, an extensive salt lake, E. Africa. 25 m. S.W. Tajoora, about lat. 1 1 4(Y N. ; and Ion. 42 40 E. It is, according to D HeVicourt, upwards of 700 ft., according to other authorities, 570 ft. below the level of the sea; of an oval form, 8 m. in length N. to S., and about 4 m. in breadth. The shores are covered with a thick salt crust, resembling ice, which in most places rests on the ground, the water having subsided; the incrustation is frequently found to be about half a foot thick. Numerous caravans from Abyssinia resort to this lake, to carry away the salt. D llericourt describes it as having a singularly dismal .and repulsive ap pearance, the landscape around being lifeless and desolate, and much broken up by deep chasms and ravines, of volcanic formation; while the waters of the sullen lake become turpid, thicken, and slowly solidity under a burning sun. The same author advances the theory, in which other authorities agree, that it is an ancient gulf of the sea, cut off from the ocean by a sudden up-heaving of the land between the latter and the former, a distance of about 5 or 6 m. (D HeVicourt, Voy. dans le Roy. de Choa.} ASSAM, or ASAM, a large district or country, India beyond the Ganges, in the valley of the Brahmapootra; between lat. 25 45 and 28 15 N., and Ion. 90 35 and 96 50 E. Its limits, however, especially on the E., are not well defined ; but its extreme length may be estimated at 400 m., with a breadth varying from 40 to 70 m. ; area about 22,000 sq. m. ; bounded, S.W. by Bengal, N. by Bhotan, E. by Thibet, and S. by Burmah and Cachar. It is divided by the Brahma pootra into three parts, Outcrkole, comprehending the pro vinces on the N. of that river; Deccancole, comprehending those on the S. ; and the Majuli or Great Island, formed by the separation of the stream into two branches, named the Lohit and the Diliing. It is otherwise divided into Camroop, Assam Proper, and Sodiya ; or Lower, Middle, and Upper Assam. The country has the appearance of a perfect flat, studded over with little conical green hills, rising abruptly from the level plains, to the height of from 200 to 700 ft. ; bounded on the N. and E. by lofty mountains. It contains several extensive tracts of well-cultivated land ; amongst which are some districts of primitive soil, above the reach of inundation, and suited for crops of all kinds. Of these high plains, those at Bishnauth, Chardwar, and Chotegah, are the most considerable. Though the country is generally swampy, and intersected with half-filled channels and stagnant lakes, yet in the dry season it is very susceptible of cultivation, and amply repays any labour and expense bestowed upon it. The soil is, for the most part, composed of rich black mould; though occasionally of red stiff clay. On the hills, it is universally composed of red rich loam. Assam has no fewer than 61 rivers, of which 37 flow from the N., and 24 from the S. mountains. Of the former, the principal is the Brahmapootra. Most of the rivers, especially during floods, are navigable by the flat boats of Assam as far up as the mountains. Gold is found in nearly all the moun tain-streams that flow into the Brahmapootra, and also in the latter river itself. But the best is found in the most winding waters with the strongest currents. Iron abounds in most of the hill countries. Coal has been discovered in several places, and limestone and shell lime are found in considerable quantities. There are also mines of precious stones, and several amber mines, which are wrought with considerable advantage. The amber is cut into cylinders about one-fourth of an inch in diameter, and 2 inches long, and is worn in the ear as an ornament. In the Naga hills are numerous brine springs, from which salt is manufactured. Petroleum is found in small quantities in some parts of Upper Assam. The climate of Assam has been long considered so un healthy, that some insurance offices exact a higher rate of premium on the insurance of lives in that province than usual. It does not appear quite to deserve this character j ASSAM 231 ASSAMAREH many of those instances of extreme mortality on which it is founded having been the result of local influences, and of the unguarded conduct of the victims themselves. The wind here blows from the E. or N.E. for more than nine months in the year, and seldom from any other direction for more than a few days at a time. There is a greater equality of temperature during the year than is general throughout India. The hot weather also is much more moderate and endurable, and the nights are cool and refreshing. Very violent stormsarc frequent during April, May, and June ; accompanied with tremendous thunder and lightning, hail showers, and torrents of rain. The rainy season lasts six months ; commencing in April and ending in October. During this season one universal deluge prevails, and all the labours of the field are necessarily sus pended. It might be thought that this would be a miserable time for the natives. It is quite otherwise. Every one, says M Cosh, seems happy and contented ; and lives luxuri ously upon haunches of venison, or steaks of the hog or the buffalo. The native anchors his boat to his own roof tree, performs his ablutions on his flooded hearth, and drags his net in his tobacco garden ; where the oxen lately ploughed, they are swum across to higher pasture ; the sites of large villages are known only by their roofs above the stream. When the inundation has risen too high for the natives to wade from one house to another, they paddle out of their houses in canoes, or roost on scaffolds, with the frequent cala mity of their children falling out of their nests and being drowned. Agriculture is generally in a very backward state; and immense tracts of country are lying waste that might be pro fitably cultivated. Eice is the principal crop; sugar-cane grows well, but does not attract much attention. Mustard, cotton, and opium, are extensively cultivated. The tea tree, which grows wild on the mountains in great abundance, has become an important article of cultivation and commerce. Coffee, in its natural state, also grows luxuriantly, but attracts little attention, and is, in consequence, not very fruitful. The betel-nut palm is cultivated to a large extent about most The natives of Assam chiefly consist of Hindoos, but there is also a large proportion of Mussulmans, who, however, are held in little estimation. The Assamese have generally been described as a degenerate and weakly race, inferior even to the Bengalese. They are a shade or two lighter than the latter, with high cheek-bones, and a physiognomy resembling Their moral character is extremely low ; false- the Chinese. hood and knavery prevail to the greatest extent ; they are idle and indolent in their habits; childish and timid in their manners ; and perfectly indifferent about providing for their future wants. Those represented in the accompanying wood- AS.SAMESE OOSSAINS. cut are Gossains, or land-holders ; a fine race of people, of high Hindoo caste. Their large picturesque hats are beuuti- villages. Fruit-trees, with a very few exceptions, do not fully made of straw, or fine cane. The young man has his thrive in Assam. The ratan grows wild throughout the country, and even forms impenetrable jungles. The plan tain grows abundantly on most of the hills. India-rubber, or caoutchouc, is an indigenous production of Assam, but is inferior to the American. The tree producing this substance is one of the largest known ; the trunk often attaining a circumfer ence of 74 ft. ; height, 100 ft. ; area covered by branches, 610 ft. ; it occurs generally as a solitary tree, but occasionally two or three may be found grouped together. Many valu able gums are found in the forests, including gum-copal. Fig trees form a large proportion of the vegetation, but the fruit is uneatable. Valuable timber abounds in many parts. Wild elephants are numerous, moving about in large herds ; and the densest parts of the forests are inhabited by the rhino ceros. Tigers, leopards, bears, and buffaloes, also abound. Cows are of inferior quality, and are generally in wretched condition. There are no horses indigenous to Assam, but they are imported from Bhotan. Sheep also are imported from the same place, and from Bengal. Wild hogs and wild game abound, but poultry is scarce. Porcupines, flying squirrels, iguana, otters, pangolin, civet cat, and an infinite variety of monkeys and snakes, are common to the country. The white ant is very destructive. Crocodiles swarm in all parts of the Brahmapootra ; and tortoises are also numerous. The rivers abound in fish of excellent quality, which are nearly all taken by the net, hooks being rarely employed. There are few manufactures in Assam ; and, with exception d hao or large knife, in his hand, with which he cuts his crops, or clears jungle. The father carries his food, tobacco, or any other little valuable, in neat-made ratan baskets, which have a covering also made of cane or leaves, impervious to water. The white clothes are of fine cotton ; the coloured, of wild silk tissue called Tufah. The women form a striking contrast to the men, being fair and handsome ; but their morality is at a very low ebb. Education is extremely limited throughout Assam, and, as in many other Eastern countries, is confined entirely to the male sex. The aggressions of the Burmese on the British territories led to a war, which, in 1825, ended in their expulsion from Assam, and the accession of that disturbed district to the British empire. The functionaries appointed by the Bengal Government are subject, in civil cases, to the court of the Sudder Dewanny Adawlut; in criminal cases, to the Aviamut Adawlut; and in revenue cases, to the Sudder board of revenue. The native government of Assam is composed of a king, or rajah ; three gohaings, or hereditary councillors of state ; the boro boruya, or chief secretary ; six choruya phukons, or inferior coun cillors ; and 12 rajkhaoyas, or captains of 3000 men. The greater part of the land is bestowed in grants upon persons called payHcs, who are bound to work four months in the year for the king or his officers. Amongst the principal sources of the royal revenue are the gold mine of Pakerguri, the salt mine of Soduja, and an iron mine in the Doyang district. The custom-house duties form another addition to the royal of potters and coppersmiths, all kinds of artizans are brought I treasury; and in 1836, the whole revenue of the kingdoi from other parts of India. There are three different quali- j amounted to 44,000 sterling. The towns of Assam arc ties of silk made, called, respectively, Path, Moonga, and \ numerous, but are composed of long straggling ranges of Judy ; the first is a fine and costly fabric ; the others are of an inferior description, the last being the coarsest. Large quantities of lac are prepared for export. There is little or no trade. What there is, is carried on entirely by an enterprising class of men, called Kyahs, emigrants from Mar- war, who establish themselves in all the principal parts of Assam, and, through their petty agents, carry on a barter trade ; exchanging salt for lac, gold-dust, and ivory. Nan kins, silks, lacquered and China ware, lead, copper, and silver, tire imported from China and Burmah. huts, which scarcely deserve the name of towns. The country contains many ancient temples, and several large and sub stantial causeways. Pop. in 1836, 602,500. (Martin s History, Antiquities, ttc., of Eastern India; Hamilton s East j India Gaz. Murray s British India ; Pemberton s Report on the Eastern Frontiers of British India: M Cosh s Topography \ of Assam.] ASSAMAREH, a large vil., W. Africa, 1. bank, Niger, about lat. 5 58 N. ; Ion. 6 45 E. Camwood abounds in I the vicinity, and is a staple article of commerce. ASSASSINS 232 ASSISI ASSASSINS or HA88A8SINS [Persic, &MMMM, a po .iiard], the name of a military and religious order formed in Persia, by a sect of Mahometans, in the ninth century, who, in process of time, obtained possession of 10 or 12 cities, and chose a leader or king, to whom they gave the name of The Old Ulan oftlte Mountain, who resided in the hill-fort of Alamut, tf. of Casvin in Persia, and surrounded himself with a devoted band, dressed in a peculiar manner, and armed with sharp daggers, who paid the most implicit deference to his com mands, esteemed assassination meritorious when sanctioned by his mandate; and who believed that the highest joys of paradise awaited them, should their lives be sacrificed in his service. Secret assassination, against which no precaution could prevail, was the tremendous instrument of his vengeance. The greatest monarchs stood iu awe of him, for his was a S-.vcr which they could not guard against ; and many princes 1 under the daggers of their followers, assassins who had succeeded in getting into their service, for the purpose of destroying them. About the middle of the 12 th century, how ever, the assassins were themselves exterminated, by the great Mongol conqueror, Mangoo Khan, their haunts all taken one after another, and their inmates massacred without distinction. ASSATCHINSKAJA SOPKA, an active volcano in Kamtschatka, lat. 52 2 N. ; Ion. 157 43 E. Its last erup tion occurred in 1828. ASSAYE. Sec ASSYE. ASSCHE, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. S. Brabant, (list, of, and 8 in. N. W. Brussels, on the road to Ghent. It has a considerable trade in grain, hops, flax, and fruit. Pop. 5820. ASSEEEGIIUR, or ASEERCIIUH, a tn. and fortress, Ilindoostan, prov. Candeish, presidency, Bombay, 15 in. N. Ijurhampoor, and 280 N.E. Bombay; lat. 21 20 N. ; Ion. 76 20 E. ; long distinguished as the key of the Deecan. The town, called a pettah or suburb, is large and irregular, with one good street and a bazaar. It lies round the foot of a rocky hill 750 ft. high, on whose summit is the fortress, the walls of which are built on the edge of a precipice about 100 ft. high, and only accessible at two points, both strongly fortified. The fort is well supplied with water, and has several magazines cut in the solid rock. The principal approach is on the S.W., where there is a double line of outworks of admirable masonry. It was besieged and taken in 1819, and, along with a small tract of unproductive country around it, ceded to Great Britain. ASSEN, a tn. Holland, cap. prov. Drenthe, and of arrond. and can. Assen, 16 m. S. Groningen at the N. end of the Smilder Canal, by which it communicates with Meppel, Z wart-sluis, and the Zuider-Zee. It is the seat of the court of justice for the province, for the arrondissement, and canton ; has paved streets, and well-built houses, mostly having gardens attached, and altogether has such a good appearance, that it has been called a little town of palaces. It possesses a townhall, a handsome Government-house, a courthouse, prison, bank, a Calvinistic and a R. catholic church, and a Jewish synagogue, a gymnasium, and three other schools. The inhabitants are chiefly occu pied in agriculture, and in the shop and transit trade. An annual fair is held for cattle, &c. Pop. about 2700. (Van der Aa.) ASSEN DELFT, a vil. Holland, prov. N Hoi land, 7 m. N.N.E. Haarlem, and 8 m. N.W. Am sterdam. It has a townhall, a handsome cruciform Calvinistic and a H. catholic church, two orphan- houses, and some schools. Its inhabitants are employed in making butter and sweet-milk cheese, and in weaving sailcloth, upwards of 300 looms being frequently at work. In the vicinity are four paper-mills, and two oilmills. Pop. about 2500. (Van der Aa.) ASSENEDE, or ASSEXDE, a tn. and com. Bel gium, prov. E. Flanders, N. Ghent. It has dye- works, and manufactures of woollen and cotton cloths. Pop. 4306. ASSENS, a small tn. and seaport, Denmark, W. side of the island of Fiihnen, situated on the wider part of the Little Belt, about 20 m. S.W. Odei 55 16 6" N. ; Ion. 9 53 4.5" E. (R.) It has some distilleries, several manufactures, amongst which is an extensive wool-card manufactory, a considerable trade in corn, and a small but safe harbour, with 12 ft. water. The towu has ten vessels, gross tonn., 750. There is constant communication from Assens across to the Schleswig coast. Pop. 2700. ASSES EARS, the name of various remarkable rocky peaks, in different parts of the world: 1, A double-peaked hill, near the mountainous peninsula, Jebel Hassan in Arabia, at the S. entrance into the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb. 2, Two sharp peaks near Kisseen point on the S. coast of Arabia, in lat. 15 20 N.; Ion. 51 48 E. 3, Two remarkable hills i.i Persia, prov. Pars, 5 in. E. the shores of the Persian Gult ; lat. 28 29 N.; Ion. 51 14 E. (u.) t. A rugged double-peaked hill in Malabar, about 18 m. N.E. from Mangalore, and 12 or 15 m. from the sea; lat. 13 2 N. ; it rises almost vertically from the low country. 5, Two spire like peaks in the S. part of the island of Lingin, in the China Sea, about lat. 18 S. ; Ion. 105 4 E. 6, Two high remarkable peaks on the Hae- Pong or Ky-Poong Island, off the S. coast of China, prov. Quang-tong ; lat. 21 54 N. ; Ion. 114 E. (n.) They rise from the same base almost perpendicularly from the sea, and slop ing suddenly down on the N.E. side, are united to a piece of moderately elevated land, which terminates that part of the island. 7, Two singular peaks on the S. end of the island of Timoan or Teoman, China Sea, off the E. coast of the Malay peninsula; lat. 2 54 N.; Ion. 104 15 E. The peaks stand on one base, and rise abruptly from the sea to a great height. ASSEY, a par. Ireland, co. Meath ; 1218 ac. Pop. in 1841, 138. ASSIN, a small state in the Ashantee territory, 1. bank, Amissa. ASSINEE, a river and vil. Guinea, N.W. coast, Africa. The river forms the W. boundary of the Ashantee territory, as the Voltaand Loka do the E. The village is situated at the mouth of the stream, which is in lat. 5 8 36" N.; Ion. 3 23 W. (n.) ASSINGTON, a par. England, co. Suffolk; 3450 ac.; N.W. Nayland. Pop. in 1841, 778. ASSIN 1BOIN, a large river, N. America, within the Hudson s Bay territory, which, after a sinuous course of about 480 m., having been previously joined about lat. 50 by the Red River, flows into the S.W. end of Lake Winnipeg. It is navigable for canoes to its source ; and gives its name to an Indian tribe of the Sioux nation, residing in the W. part of N. America, near the Rocky Mountains. ASS1SI, or ASSISSI [Latin, Assisium], a tn. Papal States, delegation of, and 13 m. S.E. Perugia, 20 m. N.W. Spoleto, picturesquely situated in one of the finest parts of Italy. It stands on a hill, across which a long line of aqueducts stretches, and is surrounded by battlements and towers, overhung by a lofty citadel in ruins. It is the birthplace of St. Francis, founder of the order of Franciscans ; and the most remarkable edifice which it contains is the double church which is built over the crypt where his remains lie, and was erected in the 13th century. Its architecture belongs to the early Gothic, and has served as a model to all the churches of the Franciscan THK PIAZZA, ASSISI. From! i ; lat. order. It contains fine paintings by Ciambue, Giotto, Lo Spagna, Cavallino, and other celebrated artists of that period : and the tomb is annually visited by immense numbers of pil grims, during a great fair which is held here between July 2 1 ASSMANNSHAUSEN 233 ASSYRIA and August 1, and attracts visitors from all R. catholic coun tries by the indulgences which are then given. There are 20 other churches, and 12 monasteries for mendicant friars. In the Piazza, or square, stands a magnificent portico of the an cient Temple of Minerva; it consists of fluted columns and a pediment. The ruin has been attached to a church, to which it has given the name of Santa Maria della Minerva. Assisi has manufactures of iron tiles and needles ; of the latter it ASSUMPTION ISLAND. 1, An isl., If. Pacific Ocean, Marianne Archipelago ; lat. 19 41 N.; Ion. 145 27 E. (H.) ; between 9 and 12 m. in circumference. It contains an active volcano of 2026 ft. in height, and is almost wholly composed of or covered with black lava, and presents a very dismal and repulsive appearance from the sea. Perouse describes it as a most wretched place, but it has been somewhat improved since his time by the Spaniards, who have planted rice in it, produces 4000 Ibs. annually. Assisi gave birth to Metastasio, j and introduced horses, cattle, swine, and lamas. It produce and is celebrated by Dante. Pop. 6000. ASSMANNSHAUSEN, a poor vil. Nassau, r. bank, Rhine, about 2 m. N. W. Riklesheim, celebrated for the excellent red also a few cocoa-trees ; anchorage unsafe. 2, A small isl. at the N. entrance into the Mozambique Channel; lat. (S.E. point) 9 46 S. ; Ion. 46 34 E. (it. wine grown in the Hellenberg, famed as far back as 1108. In early times the religious houses and noblemen around seized on the vineyards, whence arose the poverty of the inhabitants Pop. 579 ASSO, a tn. and com. Austrian Lombardy, prov. of, and battle was fought, on September 23, 1803, between the British 9 m. N.E. Como, and 7 m. W. Lecco, on an elevated plain and native forces under Wellington, then General Wellesley, near the source of the Sambro, having a parish church, eight ! and the combined armies of Dowlet Row Sindia, and the rajah about 7 m. in length, is low, with some sand downs, covered with shrubs. ASSYE, or ASSAYE, a small vil. Hindoostan, prov. Berar, 28 m. N. Janlna, and 220 E.N.E. Bombay; lat. 20 15 N. ; Ion. 75 50 E.; chiefly remarkable as the spot where th chapels of ease, and a school. It has a large bonded store house, two cotton factories, and a linen-weaving factory, making cloth for the great hospital in Milan. Pop. 1832. (Dizio Univ. Italia; Raffelsperger.) ASSOFOODAH, a tn. Fellattah country, W. Africa; about lat. 10 25 N. ; Ion. 2 35 E. hometans. Pop. 12,000. The natives are Ma- of Berar. The forces under Wellesley amounted to 14,300, of which 4500 only were brought into action. The combined Indian army is variously stated at 30,000 to 50,000, and of these about 10,000 were regularly-disciplined infantry, commanded by French officers. Notwithstanding this disparity of num bers, the enemy was completely routed, and British supremacy established in India. Ninety-eight pieces of cannon, seven standards, the camp equipage, and a large quantity of ammu nition, fell into the hands of the victors. The slain on the side of the British Indian army, amounted to 1566 men killed and wounded, on that of the confederates to 1200. (Hamilton s East India Gaz.; Historical Account of British India; Martin s East Indies.) ASSY NT, an extensive par., N.W. coast, Scotland, co. Sutherland, 36 m. long, 18 broad, and comprising 97,000 ac. It is one of the wildest and most rugged districts in Scotland. Some of its mountains are of considerable elevation, and of peculiar form. The loftiest, Benmore, rises to a height of 3230 ft. above the level of tin Limestone abounds in ASSOS, or Assus, an anc. and ruined city, Asiatic Turkey, pash. Anatolia, near the modern Beiram or Beahrahm, on the Gulf, and about 30 m. W. the town of Adramyti ; lat. 39 30 N. ; Ion. 26 20 E. It is surrounded by rocks, which rise abruptly to the height of 60 or 80 ft., and which were formerly crowned with temples. Among the ancient relics here are numerous tombs, the ruins of temples, baths, theatres, &c. ASSOUAN, or ESOOAN [anc. Syene], a tn. Upper Egypt, r. bank, Nile, near the tenth Cataract ; lat. 24 5 30" N. Few remains of the ancient city now exist. The environs are sandy and barren, producing little else than palms, dates, and grain ; every other kind of provision being brought from other parts of the country. Dates are among the principal exports of the town. Senna, charcoal, henna, wicker-baskets, and a few slaves, from the interior, from Abyssinia, and Upper Ethiopia, are sent thence to different parts of Lower Egypt. Near Assouan commences the granite regions of Egypt ; and the most interesting objects in the vicinity are the ancient quarries, whence obelisks and statues were excavated of the kind of granite called sienite. Syene was the place to which Juvenal was banished. ASSOUR, a tn. Nubia, kingdom of Dongola, r. bank, Nile, ---- .......... > ...... ---- --------- , ..... --- about 10 m. N.W. Meroe, celebrated for the number of its I abounds in trout of various kinds, and is surrounded with the most beautiful scenery. On a peninsula that juts into this the parish. In one part, there is a stupendous ridge of that valuable material, interspersed with sandstone, of about 1 m. in length, and 300 ft. in height. There are also inex haustible quarries of beautiful marble, one white, and the other of a variegated colour, and both capable of receiving the finest polish. These quarries were worked some years since, but, in consequence of the difficulty and expense of conveying the blocks to the coast, they have been abandoned. Fresh-water lakes are numerous ; the largest, Loch Assyut, is about 7 m. in length, and 1 in breadth, where broadest. It pyramids. Fine ruins abound in this vicinity. ASSUAN. See ASSOUAN. ASSUAPMOUSSOIN, a lake, Lower Canada; lat. 49 22 N. ; Ion. 73 55 W. It is from 8 to 10 m. in length, and about 4 in breadth, and is connected with a numerous series of small lakes which lie thickly around, all having communi cation with each other by small streams. ASSUAY. See ASUAY. ASSUMPTION, or ASUNCION [Nuestra Seukora D As- sumpgao), a city of S. America, cap. of the state of Paraguay, on a height, 1. bank, Paraguay, a little way above where it is joined by the Pilcomayo, 650 m. N. Buenos Ayres ; lat. 25 18 S.; Ion. 57 30 W. Founded in 1535 by a colony of Spaniards, and originally but a small fort, from its advan tageous position it became in a few years a city of some im portance. It has a cathedral, three churches, four convents and monasteries, an hospital, a theological seminary, and lake, are the ruins of the ancient castle of Ardorack, in which the unfortunate Marquis of Montrose was confined by Macleod of Assynt, after he had been taken prisoner by that chieftain. Of sea lochs or arms of the sea, which are numerous, the largest is also named Loch Assynt. It is about 14 in. long, from Store Point to the head ; and varies from 6 m. broad at Store Point, to half a mile opposite Duart More. Springs and streams also abound ; the former remarkable for their size, and for the purity and excellence of their waters ; one of these springs discharges a current of four cubic feet. A large portion of the parish is laid out in slieep-walks, a very small part only being cultivable. On this account, the great bulk of the population live along the shores, where they have the benefit of fishing. There is no market-town within the parish, and only one village, Lochinver. The coast is bold and , j , ___,, rocky, but has some good harbours. The parish is the property college. It is ill built and irregular, most of the houses are entirely of the Duke of Sutherland. Pop. in 1841, 3178. of earth, and the streets are crooked and unpaved. The in- j ASSYRIA, the name which is usually appropriated to habitants carry on a considerable trade in tobacco, timber, the first of what are known as the four great empires of the hides, and sugar ; and especially in matte or Paraguay tea, , world ; but which, in geography, is more correctly confined grown abundantly in the surrounding district, and exported to to what was called Assyria Proper, and nearly corresponds Buenos Ayres, Tucuman, Chili, Peru, and other parts of S. : with the modern Kurdistan. It was bounded on the N. by America. The air is temperate, and the climate healthy ; the Mount Niphates and part of Armenia, E. by the part of Media adjacent country is fertile, and abounding in rich pastures, on j toward Mounts Chaboras and Zagros, S. by Susiana and which numerous flocks of cattle, and considerable numbers of j part of Babylonia, and W. by the Tigris. Its capital was horses, mules, asses, sheep, and goats are fed. Wheat, maize, | Nineveh, which is still feebly represented by a modern town sugar, tobacco, cotton, mandioca, and potatoes are extensively ! of the same name, near which the ancient ruins may still be cultivated, and honey and wax are produced in abundance, traced; but though it had many other important cities, even Pop. about 12,COO- 1 the sites of the greater number are unknown. VOL. 1. 30 ASTABEL 234 ASTI ASTABEL, SIIERM ANTAR, or ISTABL ANTAR, a tn. Arabia, in Ilejaz, coast of the Red Sea ; lat. 26 24 N. Near it is a good anchor station, in a deep bay, formed in coral rocks. The plant Pavetta longij olia is found abundantly in the vicinity. From the long roots and twigs of this plant the Arabians make tooth-picks, which they chew, that the acid juice thereby obtained may clean their teeth. ASTAFFORT, a tn. France, dep. Lot- et- Garonne, r. bank, Gers ; 10 in. S. Agen. It owes its origin to the English, and its name is said to be a corruption of Stafford. It was anciently a place of some strength, and is still surrounded by walls and bastions, in a ruinous state. In the neighbourhood, a field called Champ de Iluguenots commemorates the defeat of a body of Protestants, headed by Conde, who narrowly escaped being taken. Pop. 1318. ASTARA, a frontier tn. Russia, gov. Georgia, prov. Shirvan, upon the river Astara, which forms the boundary between Russia and Persia ; a quarter of a mile from its out let into the Caspian Sea; 45 m. N.E. Ardebeel, and 130 m. E. by N. Tabreez ; lat. 38 20 N. ; Ion. 48 20 E. It has a small port, in former times flourishing ; and exports grain, fruits, and silk. ASTBURY, a par. England, co. Cheshire; 18,070 ac. It has a spacious beautiful church, of all styles of English architecture, but more especially the later. The screen and the stained glass windows are fine. Pop. in 1841, 14,355. ASTELL S ISLAND, N. coast of Australia, N.W. side of the Gulf of Carpentaria, one of the English Company s group, situated at the entrance to the Bay of Arnhem. It is of considerable height, well-wooded, and contains iron ore. ASTEN, or ASTHEN, a vil. Holland, prov. N. Brabant, 12 m. E.S.E. Eindhoven. It is a large beautiful village in the S.W. part of the Peel ; and has a large handsome cruciform R. catholic church, and an elegant townhouse, in the under part of which is the butter weigh-house. Outside the village ! hood is a mine furnishing lead, litharge, zinc, and silver. Pop pet, loop-holed for musketry, lias been erected. Great part of the town is in ruins ; but the parts still standing have a lively and picturesque appearance. The houses are chiefly of wood, in a light and open style of architecture, with projecting fronts, and sloping roofs covered with red tiles or thatch. Not unfrequently they are furnished with verandahs, supported on wooden pillars ; and lofty square towers, called vaudgeers, with openings on each side, which act like windsails, and maintain a circulation of fresh air throughout their interior. The large extent of open space within the town, generally planted or laid out in fine gardens, is one of its peculiar and most attractive features. None of the buildings are deserving of particular notice. The palace, in which the governor re sides, is extensive ; but has a mean appearance, and bears visible marks of decay. The bazaars, though large, are very indifferently supplied. The manufactures are chiefly confined to a few silk and cotton stuffs ; and though the locality seems well fitted to make it the key of commerce between the East and the Caspian, the trade is inconsiderable. The greatest obstacle to its prosperity is its pestilential atmosphere, which has procured for it the ominous surname of City of the Plague. During the summer rains no inhabitant, whose circumstances enable him to depart, remains within it. It has been repeatedly ravaged by the plague ; and when Burnes visited it, it had been so depopulated by that scourge the year before, that the streets were literally deserted, and half of the shops and houses shut from want of masters. Asterabad is the birthplace of the Kujurs, the reigning family of Persia, and is always governed by a royal prince. (Fraser ; Burnes ; Chesney.) ASTERBY, a par. England, co. Lincoln ; G20 ac. ; N. Horncastle. Pop. in 1841, 256. ASTFELD, a vil. Brunswick, in the dist. and vicinity of Wolfenbiittcl, in the Harz Mountains. In its neighbour is a castle called the Huis te Asten. Two annual cattle-fairs ! 664. are held. The inhabitants are nearly all R. catholics. 2800. (Van der Aa.) Pop. ASTERABAD, or ASTRABAD [anc. Hyrcania], a small prov. Persia (cap. Asterabad), between lat. 36 20 and 38 N., and Ion. 53 40 and 57 55 E. ; bounded, N. by the desert of Khiva, S. by the Koh Caucasian or Elbruz Mountains, E. by prov. Goorgan and N. bend of the Attruck, and W. and N.W. by the Caspian. The S. border, forming the abut ment of the Elbruz, is lofty and mountainous ; but imme diately below, an extensive plain of surpassing beauty and richness stretches out to the N.E. and W. Towards the Caspian, however, the country, though still continuing level, loses its beauty and fertility, and exhibits the well-known characteristics of a steppe. Great part of the surface, both towards the S. slopes and throughout the rich plain, is covered with magnificent forests, so close and tangled as not only to be often impassable, but to exclude the proper circulation of the air, and generate pestilential vapours. The diseases thus spread over the province have repeatedly made fearful ravages ; and are so much dreaded by the roving Turkomans, of whom the rural population chiefly consists, that when the rain sets in, and begins to form stagnant pools and swamps, they retire beyond the Attruck, and prefer the verge of a burning sandy desert to the fatal luxuriance of Asterabad. The inhabitants of the villages, being stationary, have not the same resource, and suffer severely from sickness. Nor is this their only calamity. Though the rich soil produces all kinds of grain and fruit in the greatest abundance, it too often happens that those who sow the crop are not permitted to reap it. The Turkomans who had retired usually return again before har vest, and make no scruple of appropriating it as their own. No redress can be obtained. The King of Persia, though nominally sovereign, is scarcely able, and probably is not much disposed to interfere with these predatory hordes, so long as they continue, as at present, to furnish him with the best UjffuncJiees, or armed horsemen, of which his army can boast. AsTERAnAD, capital of the above province, lies at the foot of the N. slope of the Elbruz range, and on a small stream which falls into Asterabad Bay in the S.E. of the Caspian, about 20 m. below. It has a circuit of about 3 in. ; and is surrounded by a dry ditch and a mud wall, which, though once lofty and flanked by numerous towers, has mouldered down to an earthen mound, on which a low para- ASTIIALL, a par. England, co. Oxford; 1180 ac. ; E. by S. Burford. Pop. in 1841, 389. ASTI [anc. Asia, or Hasta, Pompcia], a city, Sardinian States, gov. Alessandria, cap. prov. of Asti, 1. bank, Bourbo, near its confluence with the Tanaro, 28 in. E.S.E. Turin. The town is surrounded with decaying walls, formerly cele brated for their 100 towers, although few of them now remain. It is in general badly built, although it contains many noble mansions ; the streets are wide, but little frequented. It is the seat of a bishop, suffragan to Turin, has a royal college, a court of justice, a school of jurisprudence, and a theological THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF ST. MAGDALKNK, AOTL From Ohnpuy, Oathedrulen. The original catli- seminary, a rich, picturesque buildi cdral fell in 1323, and was replaced shortly thereafter by tho present fine venerable Gothic building, in which are numerous fine paintings. Besides the cathedral, there are other three ASTLEY 235 ASTRAKHAN fine churches in Asti, which moreover possesses a printing- office, carried on continuously since its establishment in 1479. There are likewise, in the town, several mills for spinning silk, and several silk manufactories ; but it has otherwise little trade, and no great appearance of prosperity. The vineyards in the vicinity supply the best wines produced in Piedmont, and a considerable trade is carried on in them. Alfieri was bora here in the year 1749 (January 17). Asti is a town of high antiquity, having been in existence long previous to B,C. 400, when it was devastated by the Gauls. It subse quently formed alliance with the Romans, and was afterwards again destroyed by the Gauls, but was rebuilt by Pompey the Great. After a series of vicissitudes, extending through many centuries, and including many sanguinary visitations, it fell into the hands of the French, with whom it remained till about the middle of the 16th century, when it passed into the hands of the Duke of Savoy, to whose dominions it is still attached. Pop. 20,000. The PROVINCE, one of the six intendenze or subdivisions of Alessandria, is bounded, W. and N. by prov. Turin, S. by Alba, S.E. by Alessandria Proper, and N.E. by prov. Cassali. It is hilly, but fertile, and is celebrated for a sparkling white wine, resembling champagne, called vino d Asti. It produces, likewise, corn and fruits in great abundance ; also, excellent silk, mulberries being culti vated to a great extent for feeding the silkworms. Pop. 118,709. ASTLEY, the name of three parishes in England: 1, Co. Warwick ; 2550 ac. ; on the Sow brook, E. Leigh ; ancient chapel ; remains of Astley Castle here. Pop. in 1841 , 371. 2, Co. Worcester; 3310 ac.; S. Bewdley, on a tributary of the Severn. Pop. in 1841, 834. 3, Astley [Abbots], co. Salop ; 3330 ac. ; N. Bridgeworth. Pop. in 1841, 657. ASTON, a tn. and par. England, co. Warwick. The town is 2 m. N.E. by E. Birmingham, and 95 m. by railway from Liverpool. The parish contains three churches, and several dissenting chapels, with attached Sunday-schools, in fant and national schools, alms houses, and a large union work house. The Birmingham and Fazely Canal passes here, and is crossed by the Grand Junction Railway, on a viaduct of 10 arches. The inhabitants, of whom there were 45,720 in 1841, are chiefly employed in various branches of the hard ware and Birmingham toy manufactures ; and there are like wise some small silk and cotton-mills.- -AsxoN is also the name of several hamlets in many parts of England. ASTON, the name of numerous parishes in England : 1, Co. Hereford ; 1098 ac.; S.W. Ludlow. Pop. in 1841, 52. 2, Co. Herts; 1990 ac.; S.E. Stevenage. Pop. in 1841, 556. 3, Co. York, W. Riding; 2870 ac.; S. Rotherham. Pop. in 1841, 763. 4, Aston (Abbots), co. Bucks; 2180 ac. ; N.N.E. Aylesbury. Pop. in 1841, 356. 5, Aston (Blank), co. Gloucester; 2250 ac.; N.E. Northleach. Pop. in 1841, 302. 6, Aston (BottereU), co. Salop; 3000 ac.; S.W. Bridge- north, on a branch of the Rea. Pop. in 1841, 173. 7, Aston (Cantlow), co. Warwick; 4300 ac.; N.E. Aleester, E. of the Stratford-on-Avon Canal. Pop. in 1841, 1089. 8, Aston (Clinton), co. Bucks; 3640 ac.; E. Tring. Pop. in 1841, 1025. 9, Aston, or Ashton-sub-Edge, co. Gloucester; 850 ac.; S.E. Evesham. Pop. in 1841, 134. 10, Aston (Flammlle), a par. and township, co. Leicester; 4670 ac.; E.N.E. Hinkley. Pop. in 1841, 1909. 11, Aston (Inyham), co. Hereford; 2300 ac. ; N.E. Mitcheldean. Pop. in 1841, 621. 12, Aston (North), co. Oxford; 1230 ae.; S.E. Deddington, E. of the river Cher- well. Pop. in 1841, 289. 13, Aston (Kowant), co. Oxford ; 2980 ac.; N.E. Tetsworth. Pop. in 1841, 885. 14, Aston (S.indford), co. Bucks; 650 ac. ; E.N.E. Thame. Pop. in 1841, 86. 15, Aston (Somerville), co. Gloucester; 1320 ac.; S. by E. Evesham, on the river Avon. Pop. in 1841, 89. 16, Aston (Steeple), co. Oxford; 1870 ac.; S. by E. Dedding ton. Pop. in 1841, 580. 17, Aston (Tirrold), co. Berks; 2030 ac.; S.W. Wallingford. Pop. in 1841, 343. 18, Aston- iipon- Trent, co. Derby; 3290 ac. ; S.E. by S. Derby. Pop. in 1841, 1952. ASTORGA [anc. Asturica Augusta], a city, Spain, prov. of, and 30 m. W. by S. Leon ; on a plain, 2 m. from the r. bank of the Tuento, 2500 ft. above the sea level. This city, surrounded by ancient walls, flanked with numerous semicircular towers, and described, by Pliny, as magnificent in ancient times, was the scene of various military operations in the peninsular war ; and its fortifications were dismantled by the French in 1812. It has a noble Gothic cathedral, built in 1471, with a splendid screen, by Gasper Becerra ; four parish churches, town and courthouses, several schools, an hospital, some convents, and the remains of a palace of the Osorio family, to which Astorga gives the title of Marquis. In the neighbourhood of the town is the small lake of San- abria, which abounds with fish, and has in the middle a rock on which stands the old castle of the Counts of Benavente. Astorga is the capital of the country of the Maragatos, a tract which occupies about 69 sq. m. S.E. of the mountain Telleno. The Maragatos follow the occupations of muleteers and car riers, and monopolize nearly all the transit trade between Galicia and the Castiles ; their own land, which is rocky and stubborn, being cultivated entirely by the females. They are a strong-built, grave people, and remarkable for scrupu lous honesty. Whatever is intrusted to them is conveyed to its destination in the most perfect security ; while their char acter for intrepidity is such, that few robbers care to attack them. They value their services, however, at a high rate, and thus often acquire considerable wealth. They have their own peculiar dialect, customs, and dress, and never inter marry with other tribes. Pop. of Astorga, 2850. (Madoz; Murray s Handbook; &c.) ASTORIA, a small trading port and fort, Oregon, on the Columbia River, about 8 m. from its junction with the Pacific. It was established in 1811, by John Jacob Astor, of New York, after whom it has been named. It is now called Fort George, and is occupied by the Hudson s Bay Company, who, however, pay little regard to it, having abandoned the idea of improving it as a port, and, in consequence, removed their principal seat of operations to Vancouver, 80 m. further up the river. Though formerly a stirring and considerable place, it now consists of a few log-houses only, with some sheds and pig-styes, and presents, in all respects, an appear ance of rapid decay. The Columbia River, opposite to Astoria, is 4 m. wide, but is obstructed by an extensive sand bar, on which there is only a few feet water. The situation of the port is very beautiful, being surrounded with hills and forests, and presenting wide expanses of luxuriant sward covered with white clover. In the pine forests, in the rear of Astoria, some of the largest trees perhaps in the world are to be found, mea suring, many of them, from 40 to between 50 and 60 ft. in circumference, and from 200 to 300 ft. in height, with a bark of 10 to 12 inches in thickness (17. States Exploring Ex pedition.) ASTRABAD. See ASTERABAD. ASTRAKHAN, a gov. Russia in Europe, N.W. coast, Caspian Sea, between lat. 44 40 and 49 45 N. ; Ion. 43 5 and 51 5 E., having the Maloi Uzen for its N.E. boundary, and the Manitch for its S.W. It is divided into two nearly equal parts by the Volga, which traverses it from N.W. to S.E. Its coast line, excluding minute sinuosities, is about 520 m. in length, and is crowded throughout its whole extent with small islands, rocks, and shifting sand-banks. The entire length of the province is 370 m., its greatest breadth 250. Area 83,000 sq. m., or 51,480,000 English ac. It consists almost wholly of two vast steppes or plains, separated from each other by the Volga, the greater portions of which are arid sterile desert. The largest tracts of this description are the deserts of Naryn and Sedok, the former, in which occur hills of mov ing sand, on the N.E. side of the Volga, the other on the S.W. The whole of Astrakhan was at one period submerged by the Caspian, as is evident from the saline nature of the soil, and the shells it contains ; and as both are upwards of 80 ft. below the level of the sea of Azof, should any convulsion of nature cause a depression of the intervening land, Astrakhan would again be overwhelmed by the ocean. The soil consists gener ally of mud, salt, and sand, intermixed, and in some parts of extensive salt marshes, rendering it almost wholly one wide and sterile waste, destitute of wood ; the few trees it has to boast of being met with on the banks of its rivers only. These are oaks, poplars, birches, and some mulberry trees, the latter of which are found in greatest numbers along the Aktuba. Notwithstanding the general sterility of the country, a few fertile tracts are met with on the skirts and delta of the Volga, including some excellent pastures. Here corn is grown, but not in sufficient quantity to maintain the population, with some fruits, herbs, vines, tobacco, and cotton. Salt lakes and pools are numerous throughout the province, ASTRAKHAN 236 ASTUDILLO the largest of the former, Baskutchatsk, is situated to the K. of the Volga, and is about 12 m in length and 5 in breadth. When evaporated in summer, these lakes and pools leave thick crusts of culinary, and, in some cases, Epsom salt. In this district, low hills of gypsum and rock-salt also occur ; the former vary in size and elevation, the highest rising about 60 ft. above the level of the steppe ; they are mostly of semi circular form, and many of them are crater-shaped at the top. The salt hills rise to about the same height, and contain gem- salt, above which is sandstone, and over that the common yellow sand of the steppe. The salt is colourless, firm, and contains clear and perfectly transparent cubes. The principal rivers of Astrakhan are the Volga (tohich see], the Aktuba, which runs parallel to it at the distance of 2 or 3 m., and the Sarpa. The Kuma, which once formed a part of the S. boundary of the province, does not now reach the Caspian Sea, being absorbed by the sands 60 m. inland. The climate is extremely hot in summer, and equally cold in winter, and is unhealthy to all but natives, from the quantity of saline particles with which the atmosphere is impregnated. Pasturage and fishing constitute the principal occupation of the inhabitants ; the former of the rural and nomadic tribes ; the latter of the population on the coast and banks of the Volga. The live stock consists chiefly of sheep of the broad- tailed breed. Cattle and goats are also reared, the latter principally for their skins, from which morocco leather is made. The breeding of horses likewise obtains some at tention, but they are diminutive and ill-conditioned. The fisheries of the Volga are of great value, no stream in the world being more abundantly stocked with fish, particularly between the city of Astrakhan and the Caspian, a distance of about 25 to 30 m.* On this ground, an immense number of vessels and boats, and many thousand persons, are employed in spring, autumn, and winter, in taking fish, chiefly sturgeon, from the roes and bladders of which large quantities of isin glass and caviar are manufactured. The population is com posed of a great variety of races, including Russians, Cossacks, Tartars, Kalmuks, Indians, Persians, Armenians, &c. The most numerous are the Kalmuks, who occupy large tracts to the E. of the Volga. They are a mild and intelligent people, but addicted, it has been said, to dishonesty. Astrakhan is politically divided into four circies Astrakhan, Krasno-Yarsk, Yenotayewsk, and Tsherno-Yarsk. The population of the government in 1850 was 290,000. ASTRAKHAN, a city, Eussia, cap. of above gov., on an elevated island in the Volga, about 30 m. from its embouchure in the Caspian Sea ; lat. 46 25 N. ; Ion. 48 E. It is irregularly built, streets crooked, mostly unpaved and dirty, being covered with mud in winter, and with sand in summer. Some of the houses are of brick or sandstone, but by far the greater number are of wood. Of streets, there are altogether 146 ; squares or public areas, 46 ; market-places, 8 ; 1 1 wooden and 9 earthen bridges. In the upper part of the town stands the cathedral, from the towers of which, says Dr. Gaebel, a fine view of the city is obtained, with its broad streets and canals bordered by trees, the haven covered with ships, and of the broad majestic Volga, with its beautiful green islands. The cathedral is in the form of a parallelogram, with four small gilt and painted cupolas on the roof, and a large one in the centre, for the admission of light. Its walls inside are hung with coarsely-painted pictures, set in costly frames, mostly of silver filagrane work. There are, besides, 31 stone and three wooden churches, and fifteen mosques ; many of the former richly ornamented and gaudily furnished. The other public buildings of note are the archiepiscopal palace, the Government-offices, and the three factory halls for the Russian, Asiatic, and Hindoo dealers or merchants. An interesting architectural antiquity is a small disused Moresco church, in the fort of Peter the Great, said to have been built by order of Joan IV. Astrakhan is the seat of a Greek and Armenian ecclesiastical eparchy, also of Greek and Armenian archbishoprics. It contains a high court of civil and criminal jurisdiction ; also a Greek theological seminary, a botanic garden, a gymnasium, and upwards of 20 superior and ordi nary schools, with about 1000 scholars of all ranks. The manufactures are inconsiderable, not giving employment to more than 200 work-people; they comprise silks, cottons, Dr. Gicbel says 85 vcrsls, or 5Cf miles. woollens, shagreen skins, morocco leather, and soap. The fisheries form the staple trade of the city, immense quantities of fish, caviar, and isinglass, being exported to foreign countries. In the fishing seasons, from 20,000 to 30,000 persons connected with the fisheries resort to the city. The haven of Astrakhan is now so sanded up as to leave only 6 ft. depth of water; so that large vessels have to land their cargoes on an island nearer the Caspian. A few steam tug boats are employed in taking vessels up and down the river. In 1846 three iron steamers were started, to ply between Astrakhan and the other ports of the Caspian. Previous to that period, there was but one steamer on the Volga, and it was of only 40 horse power. Fresh water being scarce in the city, some attempts were lately made to obtain an increased supply by Artesian wells, but none was found at a depth of 400 ft. From some of the borings, however, there issued streams of carbonic hydrogen gas, which readily burnt with a clear flame. The population, as in the case of the province generally, consists of various races ; but most of the trade of the place is in the hands of the Tartars and Armenians ; the latter of whom are also the chief cultivators of the land in the vicinity. The city was once fortified in the Oriental manner ; and many vestiges of Tartar residence are met with in the neighbourhood, including numerous graves, the stones of which have been taken by tho inhabitants to form ovens. Several of the old embattled towers, and portions of dilapidated walls, still remain. In summer, when the thermometer seldom falls below 98 in the day-time, the air is filled with gnats and other small insects, which are a source of much annoyance. The resident pop. of the tn. in 1842, was 45,703. ASTROS, or ASTRO, a tn. and haven, Greece, in tho Morea, 20 m. S.E. Tripolitza, W. shore of the Gulf of Nauplia. The second national congress of the Greeks was held here. ASTUDILLO, a tn. Spain, in Leon, prov. of, and 22 m. N.N.E. Palencia, in a valley and on the declivity of a small hill. The town is surrounded by a wall entered by five gates ; it contains several squares, in one of which is held an unimportant annual fair ; and its streets are narrow, tortuous, A1STURA 237 ATACAMA and badly paved. The public buildings are three parish churches, the principal of which is celebrated for its antique grand altar ; a townhall, prison, convent, two well- attended schools, and an hospital. Its manufactures consists of tan ning, dyeing, cloth weaving, shoe-making, and several other branches. Pop- 4151. (Madoz.) ASTURA, a vil. Papal States, 37 m. S.S.E. Rome, at the mouth of a small stream of its own name. It formerly had a haven, and was a place of much greater importance than now. Here Cicero was beheaded ; and here the last of the Hohenstaufens was made prisoner by Charles of Anjou, after the battle of Tagliacozzo, in 1268. Near it, on the coast, are the ruins of a small castle. Pop. 250. A8TURIAS, an anc. division of Spain, now prov. Ovicdo (which see], formerly the kingdom of Asturia, and the only part unconquered by the Moors. It was inhabited by a race who maintained their independence against the Carthaginians, but were subdued by the Komans in the time of Augustus. After the fall of the Roman empire, Spain was overrun by the Goths and Vandals, who were opposed by the Asturians with a courage that long resisted all their efforts, but they were at last compelled to yield. Upon the Moorish invasion, at the beginning of the eighth century, the mountains of Asturia again became the refuge of those who still struggled against them ; Pelayo was elected king, and shortly after defeated the Moors at Covadonga, in a battle which may be considered as the inauguration of the sanguinary struggle which lasted for eight centuries, and ended in the final expulsion of the Moors. In 1388, it became a principality, and was appointed appanage of the heir to the Spanish throne, who also has the title of Prince of Asturias. A remarkable security of person and property has long existed in this country ; and one consequence is, that the peasantry, instead of congregating in walled towns for protection, live in small farms, and often own the land which they cultivate. They are generally of kind and civil disposi tions, especially the women, who are gentle and attentive to strangers ; of sober and industrious habits, and proverbial for their honesty and fidelity. They are, however, great boasters, and, during the peninsular war, afforded many instances of the common association of much talk with little work. Notwith standing, too, their proverbial honesty, they have been accused of gross misapplication of the money sent from England in support of the Spanish cause. The costume of the lower classes resembles that of the Swiss ; the females, when dressed in their best, wear boddices of yellow or green, laced in front with gold ornaments, and coral necklaces. Dark-coloured serges are also in great vogue, which, with black mantles or dengues, are thrown over the head. The men generally wear white felt caps, turned up with green. The patois spoken by the peasantry differs from the Galieian, and is called Bable. Travelling in Asturias is performed on mule or horseback, the roads being impassable to carriages. ASTWICK, a par. England, co. Bedford; 570 ac. ; S.S.W. Biggleswade. Pop. in 1841, 84. ASTWOOD, a par. England, co. Bucks; 1300 ac. ; N.N.E. Newport Pagnell. The female population are employed in the manufacture of lace. The church is an ancient structure, with a square tower ; it contains a handsome Norman font, and some curious and interesting monuments. Pop. in 1841. 243. ASUAY, or ASSUAY, a dep. Ecuador ; bounded, N. by dep. Ecuador, W. by dep. Guayaquil and Peru, S. by Peru, and E. by Brazil ; length, W. to E., about 644 m. ; breadth, N. to S., about 276 m. It lies on the E. slope, and to the E. of the Andes, and stretches E. over the immeasurable plains of the Maranon to the Orinoco and the confines of Brazil. The whole of its W. part is covered by the paramo or desert of Asuay, whence the department is named. This paramo is a desert mass of mountains running E. and W., joining the two N. and S. parallel ranges of mountains, and forms the S. boundary of the plateau of Quito. It consists of porphyry, mica-slate, and other primitive rocks ; and attains an elevation of about 13,000 to 15,500 ft. The department is watered by numerous streams, all affluents of the Maranon. The climate varies with the elevation, from very hot to very cold ; conse quently the vegetable productions are equally varied ; par taking of the nature of those both of the torrid and temperate zones. In the warmer localities, sugar-cane, maize, indigo, tobacco, yams, batattas, bananas, &c., are raised ; and in the colder localities, the crops are wheat, barley, rye, flax, lucerne, potatoes, and all kinds of European vegetables. The rearing of cattle, horses, asses, and mules, and above all, sheep, is vigorously pursued. The department exports salted flesh, butter, cheese, wax, beasts of burden, cattle, agricul tural produce, and small quantities of cloths of various de scriptions. It imports European goods of all kinds, cloths, stockings, linen, &c. ; wine, brandy, oil, and dried fruits. It is divided into the provinces of Cuenca, Loxa, and Jacn de Bracamoros. Pop. in 1827, 110,894. (Guthsmuth, Colombia.} ASUNCION. See ASSUMPTION. ASWARBY, a par. England, co. Lincoln ; 1940 ac. ; N. by W. Folkingham. The church is a handsome building, in the pointed style. Pop. in 1841, 119. ASWARDBY, a par. England, co. Lincoln ; 650 ac. ; N.W. Spilsby. Pop. in 1841, 92. ASWATADA ISLANDS, Mozambique Channel. See QUERIMBA ISLANDS. ASYN KALE [anc. Jasus], a tn. Asiatic Turkey, at the head of the bay of same name, W. coast, pash. Anatolia; lat. 37 15 N. ; Ion. 27 42 E. The ancient city occupied a rocky islet, about 1 J m. in circuit, now united to the continent by an isthmus. The N. side of the rock is abrupt and inac cessible, and the summit is occupied by a fortress. Here are remains of a theatre, temples, and other buildings, with ancient inscriptions, one of which is of the age of Alexander the Great. The peninsula terminates in a flat point of land, with a small square fort at the extremity. ASYR. See Asm. ASZALO, a market tn. Hungary, tbis side the Theiss, 1. bank, Hernad, 3 m. N.E. Szisko, in a valley. Pop. 1781. ASZOD. a market tn. Hungary, co. and 23 m. N.E. Pesth, on the Galga. It is well built, and has a R. Catholic, and a Protestant church, and a synagogue ; manufactures of cloaks, lined with sheep-skins, dyed blue and green ; and a consider able trade in corn and wine. Pop. 2470. ATABAPO, a considerable river, Venezuela. It rises in lat. 3 10 N.; Ion. 66 40 W., whence it flows nearly due W. for about 70 m. or 80 m. ; then turning N. falls into the Orinoco at San-Fernando; lat. 4 N. ; Ion. 68 10 W., nearly at the same point where the latter river is joined by the Guaviare and Juirula. Total course, about 140 m. The waters of the Atabapo are dark, clear, agreeable to the taste, and singularly cool ; and so great is their transparency, that the smallest fishes are distinguishable at the depth of 20 ft. or 30 ft.: and the bottom, which consists of white quartzy sand, is usually visible. There are no crocodiles in this river, but water-snakes are numerous, as are also bavas and fresh-water dolphins. The banks of the stream are also free from mos quitoes, and other troublesome insects. ATACAMA, a large, thinly-peopled, sterile tract of country, forming the N. portion of Chili, and S. portion of Bolivia. No exact boundary line is fixed. The Chilians claim as far as the Bay of Mexillanes, lat. 22 S. ; and tho territory thence to the port of Huasco, lat. 28 S., with the Andes tor the E., and the Pacific for the W. boundary, con stitutes the present Chilian province of Atacama. Its capital is Copiapo (which see); and it also contains the towns of Vallenar and Freirina, heads of departments of same names. In this province are found the richest silver- mines in Chili, principally in the districts of Chanarcillo and Tres Puntas. In the latter, discovered a few years back, large masses of native silver are frequently found at the depth of 1000 ft. or 1500 ft., weighing half a ton and up wards, and the country is everywhere rich in metallic de posits. The annual products of the mines amount to about one million sterling; and from the frequent discovery of new mines, are rapidly on the increase. Next to silver, copper is the most abundant metal, and a considerable quan tity of copper-ore is annually exported, chiefly to England. From the dry, arid nature of the country, agricultural pursuits are limited; yet a little cultivation exists on the banks of the rivers, and wherever irrigation is to be had. A railway has lately been opened between the capital of the province and Caldera, one of the three ports in the pro vince, the others being Huasco, and Chauaral. The principal rivers are, the Copiapo, the Salado, Juncal, and Chanaral ; all of them form safe anchorages at their mouths ; but all of ATACAMES ATECA them having short courses, contain so little water that they are nearly dry in the summer. Top. (1847), 25,103. THE BOLIVIAN PROVINCE OF ATACAMA embraces the sea board of the country, bounded, S"! by Chilian Atacama, N. by the river Loa, which separates it from Peru; E. by the Andes; W. by the Pacific. The country throughout is a complete desert, without water or vegetation ; and the lower grounds on the coast, which are within the rainless district of S. America, consist of wide plains, with a dark-brown movable sand. It is said that in this desert the ancient Peru vians were accustomed to bury their dead, the dryness of the climate preserving them from decay for a long period. Some copper-mines are worked in the vicinity of the port (Cobija) ; gold in small quantities is found on the banks of the rivers. Guano formerly existed in this province, but the deposits are now well nigh exhausted. In this prov., lat. 21 35 S.; Ion. 69 15 W., lies the Volcano of Atacama (18,000 ft.), one of the most S. peaks of the Bolivian Andes. The only town is Cobija. ATAC A M ES, a small seaport tn. Ecuador ; lat. 53 S. ; Ion. 79 40 W. (K.); 15 m. S.VV. Esmeraldas. ATALAIA, a tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Beira Baixa, 7 in. S. Thomar. It has an important annual fair. P. 2200. ATALANTI. See TALASTI. ATALAYA, a small tn. Brazil, prov. of, and about 20 m. S.E. Alagoas, and close upon the banks of the estuary formed by the rivers Alagoas and Itinga. It contains a church, a townhouse, and a prison. Its inhabitants carry on some trade with Bahiaand Pemambuco in ipecacuan, cotton, tobacco, and sugar, all produced in the district. Pop. of tn. and dist. 2000. ATAKAIPU [the Devil s Bock], a remarkable isolated pyramidal granitic peak in British Guiana; lat. 2 55 N.; Ion. 58 48 \V. It rises from a plateau between the upper waters of the rivers Guidaru and Kupununi, and from amidst a dense mass of foliage, which spreads around it in all direc tions, to a height of 900 ft. above the former river, and 1300 ft. above the sea. For 350 ft. above its base, the mountain is wooded, and for 550 ft. more it rises in a pyramidal form, desti tute of vegetation, forming a striking contrast to the luxuriant growth at the base, and in all the surrounding country. There being no heights so elevated as Ataraipu for a considerable distance in every direction, renders the appearance of this natural pyramid all the more curious. (Schomburgk.) ATAUN, a tn. Spain, in Biscay, prov. Guipuzcoa, 18 m. S.W. Tolosa ; in a valley, r. bank, Agaunza, surrounded by mountains. In the centre of the town is a square, containing the parish church and townhouse. The produce of the vicinity consists of grain, fruits, vegetables, and wood for charcoal ; - and the river yields fish of various kinds. Pop. 21 64. ATAWAL [for Altwal, the Long Island], an isl. Arabia, N. part of the Red Sea. It contains a large fishing village of the same name. ATBARA, a territory and river, Nubia ; the former some times called the island of Meroe, from its being partially in- Kiilated by the river Atbara on the N.E., the Ba.hr -el-Azrek on the W. and S.W., and the Nile on the N.W. Linant describes it as a very flat country, with mountains scattered here and there like stones placed on a floor ; the surface, for the most part, thickly covered with trees and grass; but in some places entirely destitute of vegetation. The inhabitants are Bisharee Arabs, a handsome and bold race of people ; the women of slender and elegant form, with dark brown com plexions, beautiful eyes, and fine teeth. The men go con stantly armed, and are frequently engaged in quarrels, being, according to Burckhardt, cruel, avaricious, revengeful, and inhospitable. The cattle of this territory are of a superior description, and very numerous. The river Atbara, one of the principal affluents of the Nile, is formed by the united streams of Tokoor, Ohha, and Guangue, and those of the Te- cazze and Augrab, all having their sources in Abyssinia. The two former uniting at lat. 14 15 N. ; Ion. 36 28 E. ; the two latter at lat. 48 11 N. ; Ion. 36 46 E. ; and the con joined streams that form the Atbara, meeting near Sofie, in lat 14 40 N. ; Ion. 36 25 E. ; thence flowing in a N.W. direction, and subsequently falling into the Nile at Adamer; lat. 17 38 N. ; Ion. 34 8 E. The whole course of the At bara from Sofie, the point of its formation, to Adamer, where it joins the Nile, is about 270 m. Burckhardt thus describes the appearance of its banks : After a march of three hours among sandy plains, we came in sight of the river Atbara, and entered the groves of trees with which it is lined. The luxuriant vegetation which now surrounded us, filled with easure even the stony hearts of the slave-traders. Amongst the trees were different species of the mimosa, doum trees of the largest size, whose luxuriant clusters of fruit excited the wishes of the slaves ; the nebek tree, with its fruit ripe ; the allobd, and a number of others, with an abundance of wild herbage, growing on a rich fat soil, similar to that of Egypt. At those parts of the river visited by Burckhardt, the banks were not more than 25 ft. high, and from 400 to 500 paces apart ; and the current so slow as to be hardly perceptible. During high water, crocodiles are found in the river, but no hippo potami. (Burckhardt s Travels in Nubia.) ATCHA, ATCIIU, ATCHAJI, ATCHAK, or ATSCHAK, an Aleutian isl. Andrcnovian group, lat. 52 31 N.; Ion. 173 40 W. (R.), about 75 m. long, by about 10 m. broad. At its E. point is a harbour, near which is a volcano that throws out a considerable quantity of sulphur, and at the foot of which there is a hot spring. Pop. 50 or 60. (Hitter s Lex.) ATC1IAFALAYA, a river, U. States, an outlet of the Mississippi, which it leaves on the r. bank, about 2 m. below the confluence of the Red River. It flows very irregularly for about 150 m., forming the W. boundary of the Missis sippi delta, and enters a bay of its own name in the Gulf of Mexico, in lat. 29 20 N.; Ion. 91 20 W. Its naviga tion, however, is greatly impeded by masses of floating trees, called rafts, which have been arrested in their progress by snags, islands, shoals, and other obstructions, and made to accumulate, so as to form natural bridges reaching entirely across the stream. One of these rafts, which was cleared away in 1839, after four years labour, and which had taken 38 years to accumulate, consisted of a mass 10m. in length, 220 yards wide, and 8 ft. deep. It was covered with beauti ful flower-bushes and trees, some of the latter of which had grown to a height of about 60 ft. A floating light-vessel has been lately placed in the bay, for the guidance of vessels. ATCHAM, a par. England, co. Salop; 3490 ac. ; S.E. Shrewsbury. Pop. in 1841, 513. ATCHEEN. Sec ACHEEN. ATCHERA, a considerable tn. Hindoostan, S. Concan or P.hoonslah country, 46 m. N. Goa; lat. 16 C 11 N.; Ion. 73 37 E. It was formerly a place of great reputed sanctity, and a notorious depot for goods obtained by piracy. It was captured by the British in 1818. (Hamilton s Vzs< India Gaz. t ATCHINSK, or ACHINSK.!, A tn. Siberia, gov. Yen iseisk. 75 m. W. Krasnoyarsk; pleasantly situated in a hilly fertile country, r. bank, Tchulym or Chuluim, an affluent of the Obi ; lat. 56 49 N. ; Ion. 57 50 E. It has two churches ; and the exterior of the houses is in general remarkably hand some. The district around is fertile in gram, and has brim- springs, producing a considerable quantity of salt. Pop. 2000. 2, A tn. Russia, gov. Perm, and in the vicinity of the city of that name. It is uiie of the mining localities of the Government, where a considerable quantity of copper ore was wont to be produced. The miners inhabit a little village, in a fertile dell, close to the pits. ATCHUJEFP, ATCHUCK, or ATCIIU, an isl. on the E. shore of the Sea of Azof, in the Strait of Enikale, a little to the N.E. of Taman, near the mouths of the Kuban, about lat. 45 15 N. ; Ion. 36 40 E. ; and comprised in the Rus sian government of Taurida. It is mountainous, and full of swamps and morasses ; contains a castle and a port, and a small town called Cozadji. The inhabitants, who are Cos sacks of the Black Sea, follow the occupation of fishing, and send large quantities of sturgeons in a dried state, caviar, fish-fat, and isinglass, to Constantinople. ATECA, a tn. Spain, in Aragon, prov. Saragossa, 5 m. W. by S. Calatayud, on the high road from Madrid to Sara gossa. It lies on the Jalon, at its confluence with the Piedra and Manubles, in a damp position, in consequence of which the inhabitants are much subject to ague. The Jalon, here crossed by a handsome stone bridge, divides the town into two nearly equal parts, the smaller of which, on the N.W. bank of the river, contains the better streets. Ateca has six squares, an ancient parish church, two chapels, guildhall, hospital, and three schools. The inhabitants are employed in agriculture, weaving, fishing, the manufacture of fire-arms, locks, tallow, and wax ; and they do a little trade in cotton fabrics, hard ware, tallow, fish, &c. Pop. 3600. ATEF ATHELNEY ATEF (EL-), a tn., N. Africa, in the Sahara, half a mile S. Beni-Isguen ; lat. 32 28 N.; Ion. 2 18 E. It is walled, has two gates, and is composed of 500 to GOO houses, including six mosques. Here is a trade in grain, &c. ATEGEKAT, or ADEGKAT, a tn. Abyssinia, kingdom, Tigre, cap. prov. Agame, 50 m. N.N. W. Antalo, on an eleva tion 8180 ft. above sea level. It contains a royal residence, a large plain structure, and 2200 inhabitants. ATELLA, a tn. Naples, prov. Basilicata, clist. of, and 6 m. 8. Melfi, on a river of its own name, an affluent of the Ofanto. ATENA, a vil. Naples, prov. Principato Citra, 45 m. S.E. Salerno. Pop. 3400. ATEKNO, or PESCARA [anc. Aternus], a river, Naples, separating the two Abruzzi ; rising in Mount Reale, and run ning past Aquila S.E., and then N.E. from Popoli, into the Adriatic Sea, near Pescara, in lat. 42 26 N. ; Ion. 14 15 E., after a course of about 84 in. ATESCH-JAH, ATESCHGAU, ATESHGA, or ATASIIKUDDA [The Place of Fire], a spot on the peninsula of Apsheron, on the W. coast of the Caspian Sea, the object of numerous pilgrimages by the Guebers, who regard it as sacred, and worship the tire which issues from it by the ignition of the naphtha, with which the soil is thoroughly impregnated. The Atesch- Jah is about 1 m. in diameter, and, from its centre, when the weather is dry, emits a yellowish blue flame visible by day, but of course, much increased in intensity during night. A number of cottages are erected in the neighbour hood, and the inhabitants, by several simple devices, apply the light to economical purposes. To prevent the escape of the naphtha vapour, they cover their floors with about a foot of loam, leaving small holes which they can open or shut at pleasure. To kindle a fire, they have only to open a hole and hold a light over it, when a continuous flame is immediately obtained. An opening of 2 inches, has been known to give a flame of about 4 ft. To regulate the flame, a hollow reed of the size required, and previously coated with lime, by the transmission of lime-water, to prevent it from being consumed, is placed in the aperture. The vapour is perceptible, and hence, though botii light and heat are obtained for nothing, the probability is, that, being prejudicial to health, they are dearly purchased. ATESHGA. See ATESCII - JAII. ATESSA, a tn. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Citra, di.st. of, and 12 m. W.S.W. Vasto d Ammone. It has a beautiful collegiate church, four parish churches, several convents, an hospital, and three mouts-de-pUU. Pop. 7526. ATFEH, a vil. Lower Egypt, 1. bank, W. branch of the Nile, about 14 m. above Rosetta, at the junction of the Mah- moudieh Canal with the Nile, where passengers who have come from Alexandria by the former, and are going either to India or the interior of Egypt, embark in steamers for Cairo, which is about 90 m. distant S.S.E. The voyage by steamer is generally performed in a day and a half; but in a sailing vessel, occupies about three days. The return voyage is accomplished by a steamer in from 12 to 15 hours, having the advantage of the current in descending. The passage by the canal, from Alexandria to Atfeh, is made by track-boats. Thus occupying an important position on the overland route to India, and to Central and Upper Egypt, Atfeh has become a bustling place; and is rendered still more so by an exten sive transit-trade, the canal being constantly lined with vessels loading grain and other cargoes. ATFIEH, or ATFEH, a tn. Central Egypt, cap. prov. Atfyh, r. bank, Nile, from which it is about 3 m. distant, and 41 m. S. Cairo. It was the capital of the Aphroditopolite nome, and, according to Strabo, noted for the worship of a white cow, the emblem of the goddess Athor, the Egyptian Venus. The Coptic name of the town is Tpch or Petpieh. It contains no monuments. Pop. 4000. ATH, a fortified tn. and com. Belgium, prov. Hainaut, on the Dendre, about 17 m. E. Tournay, on the railway from Tournay to Mons. It contains several churches, an orphan asylum, an hospital, a theatre, and a college. The principal buildings are the Hotel de Ville, built in 1600; the magazines and arsenal; the church of St. Julien, founded in 1393, de stroyed by lightning in 1817, but since rebuilt; and the college, which was founded in 1416, and, with its buildings, covers a considerable space. Among the ancient monuments of the town, is a tower called Tour du Burband, supposed to have been founded about the middle of the 12th century. Dyeing, bleaching, and soap-making are carried on here to a con siderable extent. There are also manufactures of gloves, lace, and linen cloths (of which last 25,000 pieces are annually sold in its market), a cotton printfield, a worsted mill, several brandy and gin distilleries, and a considerable trade in hemp, grain, oleaginous seeds, leather, cloth, wine, and colonial pro duce. Ath is famous for its trinkets, which circulated all over France; but the demand is now confined to Belgium, particularly Flanders and Brabant. The defences of the town were originally constructed by Vauban, but have been greatly improved and strengthened since the battle of Waterloo. The great barrack, which is bomb-proof, can accommodate 3000 men. Pop. of tu. and com. 8837. ATHABASCA, or ATIIAFESCOW, a river and lake, British N. America, N.W. territory. The river has its sources in the E. slopes of the Rocky Mountains, near Mount Brown ; lat. 52 10 N. ; Ion. 116 30 W. From this point, it pursues a tortuous, but generally N.E. and N. course till it falls into Lake Athabasca, at its \V. extremity. Its whole length, fol lowing the larger windings, is about 600 m. It receives the waters of the Lesser Slave Lake, in about lat. 55 N. by means of a connecting stream about 20 m. in length. It also receives in about lat. 56 25 N. the united waters of several .small lakes. In the upper part of its course, it is known also by the name of the Bichc, and in the lower part, or near its entrance into the lake, by that of the Elk River. The Lake of Athabasca, or Lake of the Hills, as it is frequently called, is situated about 190 m. S.S.E. the Great Slave Lake. It is about 200 m. in length from E. to W., and about 35 m. wide at the broadest part, but gradually narrows to a point at either extremity. It occupies an area of upwards of 3000 sq. m. The only outlet of the lake is by the Slave River, with which it communicates by several small streams that issue from its W. end, and by which its super fluous water are carried into the Great Slave Lake. The Stone River falls into it at its E. extremity. The N. shore of the lake is high and rocky, and thickly wooded with firs and poplars, &c. The S. shore, again, is level, and consists of alluvial soil. On this side, there is a shoal of many miles in extent, formed by the drift-timber and veget able debris brought down by the Athabasca River. The lake abounds in fish ; the most numerous are trout, carp, pike, methye, &c. ATH AN (ST.), a par., S. Wales, co. Glamorgan ; 1300ac. ; S. Cowbridge. Pop. in 1841, 379. ATHASSEL, a par. Ireland, co. Tipperary ; 12,770 ac.; contains the ruins of a priory of great extent and magnificence. Pop. in 1841, 5431. ATH BOY, a market tn. and par. Ireland, co. Meath, prov. Leinster. The town is 35 m. N.W. Dublin, and 6 m. N.W. Trim; its name, in the Irish language, meaning the yellow ford, being derived from its position on a stream called the Athboy river, a tributary of the Boyne. The town consists chiefly of one long street ; and possesses a church, a chapel, a sessions-house, and a constabulary barracks. Large cattle fairs are held here ; and the weekly cattle-market, on Thursday, is well attended; but there is little trade besides. Two schools and a small widows alms-house are supported by the Earl of Darnley, to whose estate the town belongs. A loan fund was established in 1845. Athboy returned two mem bers to the Irish parliament, but was disfranchised at the Union. Near the town, on the N., stands the Hill of Ward, about 390 ft. high a distinguishing feature in the landscape. Area of par. 11,884 ac. Pop. in 1841, 5365 ; of tn. 1826. ATHELINGTON, a par. England, co. Suffolk; 980 ac.; S.E. Eye. Pop. in 1841, 111. ATHELNEY (ISLE OF), the anc. name, now disused, of a rising ground situated in a marsh in the co. Somerset, England, par. East Ling, about 6 m. S.S.E. Bridgewater. The morass by which the island was surrounded was, in for mer times, all but impassable ; thus rendering it a place of security, for which it was often made available. Amongst those who sought safety in this bog-begirt island, was Alfred the Great, who fled thither after his retreat from the Danes, then overrunning Wessex. To commemorate this event, a small obelisk with an inscription has been erected on the spot by the owner of the land. Alfred founded a Benedictine ATHELSTANEFORD 240 ATHENS abbey here, about 888. Many architectural remains, bones, streets and edifices, which are rapidly springing up on all and other relics, have been dug up on the site of the buildings, I sides, and promise to give the city at least the appearance of a which appear to have been extensive and magnificent. The I modern capital, how much soever they may fail to rival mound, now no longer insulated, contains about 100 ac. It was, in ancient times, covered with alders, in which stags, wild goats, and many other animals sheltered. ATHELSTANEFORD, a par. Scotland, co. Hadding- its ancient splendour. Previously to these improvements, the greater part of Athens was a mere heap of ruins, the effect of the recent struggle for independence; while the portions still habitable furnished one of the worst specimens of a Turk- ton ; 4000 ac. Home, author of the Tragedy of Douglas, was j ish town, consisting of a mere labyrinth of narrow, crooked, for 10 years minister of this parish; and it is the birthplace j and irregular lanes. The houses in general had no architec- of Blair, author of The Grave. Pop. in 1841, 991 . ATHENRY, or ATHENREE, an anc. tn., barony, and par. Ireland, co. Galway. The town is 13 m. E.N.E. Galway; and was originally called Athnere, from Ath-na-Riagh, the tural merit, and even those of them which it was impossible to pass unobserved, attracted attention merely by occupying sites on which some of the finest remains of ancient art were still standing, barbarously and grotesquely dovetailed into king s ford or the abode of a king. It was at one time ! modern structures. A specimen of this curious and incon- enclosed within the walls, some vestiges of which still remain. | gruous mixture is exhibited in the woodcut on the following In the 13th century, Meyler de Bermingham granted a site i page, of a marble structure on the E. side of the Acropolis, of land for the foundation here of a Dominican monastery, an supposed to have been dedicated to Rome and Augustus. It account of which is given in Grose s Antiquities of Ireland now stands across a street, the thoroughfare of which passes but it was accidentally destroyed by tire in the 15th century. Part of the ruins are extant, as well as of the castle of the Berminghams, Earls of Lowth. There was also a Franciscan friary founded here in 1464. It sent two members to the Irish parliament, but was deprived of the franchise at the Union. Having no manufactures or trade, it is a poor place, and wears altogether a very desolate aspect. Around the town, the country is flat and dreary, presenting constant alter nations of peat, marsh, rich pasture, bare crag, and tillage- lands. The BARONY is 20 m. in length, and from \\ to 8 m. in breadth ; area, 25,782 ac. Pop. in 1841, 8179. Area of par. 24,950 ac. ; pop. in 1841, 5989. Pop. of tn. in 1841, 1236. ATHENS, the name of a county, and of numerous town ships, &c., U. States: 1, A co. in the S.E. of Ohio; area, 740 sq. m. ; watered by the Hockhocking, the Raccoon, and several smaller streams. The surface is hilly and broken, but the soil is productive, and alike adapted for tillage or grazing. Iron, coal, limestone, freestone, clay, and salt- springs, add to the riches of the county, which, besides raising numerous herds of cattle, sheep, and swine, yields maize, oats, potatoes, tobacco, &c. Pop. 19,109. 2, A post vil., cap. of above co., 72 m. S.E. Columbus. It is a picturesque village, lies on a bend of the Hoekhocking, has well-built brick houses, a Presbyterian and Methodist church, a college, founded in 182 1 , with five professors ; an academy, court house, two tanneries,, three grist and three saw-mills, &c. Pop. 710. ATHENS is also the name of townships in Maine, Vermont, New York, Pennsylvania. Michigan, Georgia, Alabama, &c. ATHENS [anc. A<W Atlience], the capital of Greece; nnd not only for several ages the centre of European civiliza tion, but still, in many respects, particularly to the scholar and the artist, the most interesting city in the world. Its site, equally magnificent for scenery, and advantageous for com merce, is about 4m. N.E. of the Saronic Gulf or Gulf of Egina, in an extensive plain of its own name, watered by the Ilissus and Cephisus, and surrounded by hills on all sides, except towards the sea, where it lies open, and gives a fine view both of the gulf and the numerous islands which seem to float on its surface. This plain, instead of being uniformly level, is broken by numerous ridges of limestone, several of which, with their intervening valleys, are partly occupied by the city; while the highest of them rises up precipitously, and forms the Acropolis or citadel. The chief approaches to Athens are one on the W. by way of Eleusis, over a well made carriage road, in a plain remarkable for the luxuriant beauty of its oleanders ; and another on the S."\V. by the celebrated harbour of Piraeus, along a tract which, though once a mere swamp, has been covered with vineyards, oliveyards, and fig-planta tions. In its most prosperous days, Athens enclosed a large space, including not only the city proper, but a long narrow suburb, stretching continuously to the Pirteus, and was sur rounded by walls which had a circuit of nearly 20 m. Parts of these walls still remain, particularly on the S. and W. ; but within a comparatively modern period, a wall of about 4 in. in circuit had been built, enclosing a space which, during the possession of the city by the Turks, was more than sufficient to accommodate its inhabitants. Since 1834, when Athens again became the seat of Government, this wall, which was in a ruinous state, has been pulled down to make way for new between its central columns, and is seen proceeding in the direction of a Turkish mosque, while modern buildings not only abut on the monument, but are built into and partly con ceal it. Artists have too often kept these rude accompani ments out of view, and, in their sketches of Athenian build ings, have exhibited them not in their actual state, but as they either imagine them to have once been, or expect them to be come by means of the renovating processes which the present Government has begun in good earnest to employ. Though several public buildings well deserving of public notice have been recently erected, the chief interest connected with Athens must long continue to be derived from its antiquities, and with these, therefore, though contrary to the usual order, it seems proper to begin. For this purpose, the reader must transport himself to the Acropolis, a lofty limestone rock, 150 ft. high, precipitous and inaccessible on all sides except the W., but terminating in a large expanse of an oval form, enclosed by a wall 2330 yards in circuit. The ascent com mences on the N. side, and winds round till it reaches the only entrance, the Propylsea, a splendid portal, with a front of six marble Doric columns and two wings, giving admission by five doorways, all of which have recently been cleared of Turkish rubbish, and once more appear almost in their original perfection. Immediately without the entrance, on the right side, a beautiful temple of Wingless Victory has recently been brought to light by the removal of a Turkish battery. It is now in process of re-construction from its numerous fragments, which lie scattered about ; and, both from its beautiful workmanship and commanding position, is expected ultimately to become one of the noblest ornaments of the city. On turning into the Acropolis, the majestic Par thenon, justly described as the finest edifice, on the finest site in the world, bursts on the view. It stands near the centre, on the most elevated spot within the Acropolis, and is built of the white marble of Pentelicus. It was in the form of a parallelogram, 228 by 100 ft., its longest sides facing the N. and S. ; and consisted of a cell surrounded by a peristyle, which had eight Doric columns in front, and 1 7 on its sides, each column 34 ft. high, and 6 ft. 2 inches in diameter at the base, and standing on a pavement elevated by three steps. The whole height was 65 ft. The Parthenon stood almost entire, at least as the Emperor Hadrian had repaired it, till 1687, when, during a siege by the Venetians, a bomb fell upon part of it, which was employed as a powder magazine, and destroyed the roof. Since then, it has received numerous injuries, some of them of a very recent date, and its more delicate ornaments must now be looked for in private cabinets and public museums. The more solid parts are tolerably entire, though even these have suffered much, and must ulti mately have disappeared under the barbarism of the Turks ; who not only, in a case of necessity, had converted its marble into cannon balls, but were in the practice of pounding it for mortar. The other principal building of the Acropolis is the Erectheum, or temple of Minerva Polias, consisting of a cell about 90 ft. long from E. to W., and intersected at its W. end by an irregular transept. The N. and E. porticoes were sup ported by Ionic columns, the S. by a kind of sculptured femalo figures, called Caryatides. The chief compartments in the Erectheum were the temple proper, at the E. end ; the Pan- clroseum, at the W. ; and, in the centre, the Cecropium, sup posed to have been so called from containing the remains of ATHENS 241 ATHENS Cecrops, the first founder of the city. Immediately to the N.W. of the Acropolis, and separated from it by a narrow val ley, is the Areopagus, or, as our Bibles also call it, Mars Hill, famous for the venerable court which there held its sittings under the open air; and still more famous as the spot on which the apostle Paul pleaded the cause of heavenly truth against THE GATE OF AUGUSTUS, ATHENS From Tbunner, Ans Stoic fatalists and Epicurean scoffers, and proved, by a simple appeal to the gorgeous temples around him, that in all things they were too superstitious. A little to the S.W. of this celebrated hill, and due W. of the Acropolis, lies a small valley, forming the old Agora (forum or market-place) ; and on a slope immediately above it, the Pnyx, with its rude bench of stone, at which Demosthenes was wont to stand and fulmino forth his matchless eloquence to the half-over awed and enraptured multitudes crowd ing the forum below. To the S. of the Pnyx, and almost of equal height with the Acropolis, is the Musaeum Hill, so called because Musaeus is said to have sung, and to have been buried there; but deriving its chief interest from a deed of shame one out of four curious dungeons, cut out of the rock at its base, being by tradition that where Socrates drank the poisoned cup. At the base of the Acropolis, near its S.E. angle, was the theatre of Bacchus ; but a few seats, cut in the rock, are almost the only vestiges of it that remain. About 500 yards N.W. of the Acropolis is the temple of Theseus, built B.C. 465, 30 years be fore the Parthenon, and more fortunate in its fate, having not only at one time been employed as a Christian church, but still forming the most complete an cient building of any extent within the city, and serving as its museum. It is built of Pentelic marble, which has assumed a rich mellow hue, and is equally remarkable for solidity and gracefulness. It is surrounded with Doric columns, 13 on each side, but is of comparatively small dimen sions, the cell being only 40 ft. long by 20 broad. Consid erably to the S.E. of the Acropolis, and a little above the torrent Ilissus, is the temple of Jupiter Olympius, which was the largest in Athens; and though begun by Pisistratus, B.C. 530, was first completed by Hadrian, A.D. 145. It consisted of a cell, surrounded by a peristyle of Corinthian columns, 10 in front and 20 at the sides, each 6J ft. in dia meter, and above 60 ft. high, and appears to have had a circuit of 2300 ft. All that now remains is 16 columns, on an arti ficial platform, supported by a wall. It were almost endless to attempt to detail all the ancient edifices with which Athens VOL. I. was adorned, and the remains of which may still be traced ; but before passing to the modern buildings, there is one belonging to an intervening period, which ought not to be overlooked. It is the Cathedral, built of massive blocks of white marble, and furnishing one of the most interesting specimens of the Byzantine style. A modern steeple conceals the original dome; but a frieze, running along the front, is carved with a curious Greek zodiac. The interior is covered with paintings. The chief part of the modern town is to the N., where a new quarter, of good houses, has been built, to which the diplomatic corps has recently removed. In the W., also, a line of houses has lately risen up, not so regularly as could be wished, but all well built, and many of them large and commodious. Here the new palace has been erected, but, unfortunately, by an architect on whom the mantle of his earliest predecessors appears not to have fallen. It is a huge quadrangular building, with massive walls of broken lime stone, faced with cement ; but the front portico, as well as a colonnade, together with all the window-frames, cornices, &c., are of Pentelic marble. The interior is highly decorated in the modern style of Munich. The university or Panepistimion, is the finest modern structure of Athens, and when completed, will not be unworthy of it ; but unfortunately, from want of funds (the greater part of which have hitherto been furnished by subscription, chiefly from foreign Greeks), only half of the design has yet been carried out. It has a handsome portico of Pentelic marble, from each side of which an open corridor leads to the six lecture-rooms, an anatomical theatre, council- room, &c. A double flight of stairs leads to the library, which is a noble hall, and already contains about 30,000 volumes. The number of students exceeds 200. It is pleasing to see that among the different institutions which are springing into existence here, education holds its proper place. In addition to the university, there are numerous schools, supported partly by Government, partly by public societies and private muni ficence. Among the higher class of these establishments are the gymnasium, which prepares for the university, and has 600 pupils ; the polytechnic school for drawing, geometry, &c., attended by nearly 200; the seminary or normal school; and the Risari ecclesiastical school, so called after its founder, and designed to give a preparatory education to students of divinity. Among the secondary schools may be mentioned those of the Greek committee of education, with about 250 pupils ; and the Athens free school, and the American school, each with 600. Athens has no manufactures, and as yet cannot be said to have any important trade, though it has an excellent harbour, which seems to invite the commerce both of the E. and the W. This harbour, called, in modern times, Porto Leone, from the marble colossal lions which once stood upon it, but still better known by its ancient name of Piraeus, is about 4 m. to the S.W. of the city, and was brought within its enclosure by means of what was called the Long ATI1EN 7 S 212 ATIILONE Walls. It ia very deep and capacious, forming a large basin, which is somewhat difficult of entrance, but within which, in its best days, 1000 triremes have rode. To the trade of this port, and the naval superiority connected with it, Athens was mainly indebted for the pre-eminence which she held among the states of Greece; and apparently to the same sources must she still look, if she is again to become great. Of this the Government seems fully aware; and accordingly, one of its earliest labours was to fill up a marsh, and commence the construction of a quay, at which several hundred merchant vessels may lie. Piraeus itself, instead of being a mere suburb, j is rapidly rising into a town. It has been almost entirely built ! since 1834, and already contains 1000 houses. See PIRJEUS. The early history of Athens is obscured by fable; and though Cecrops is universally admitted to have been its founder, so little is known of him that it is still disputed whether he came from Egypt or was a native Greek. At first the Acro polis, and a few cottages clustering round its base, formed the whole city ; but it soon rose into importance, though it does not take a very prominent place till about B.C. 594, when Solon became its legislator. The jealousy of neighbouring states began now to be excited, and a combination, headed by the Spartans, was formed against it. when the appearance of a formidable foreign foe showed the Greeks the folly of intestine dissension, and convinced them that union alone could insure their safety. A numerous Persian host arrived in Attica, ! and threatened to make Greece the paltry province of a bar- j barian empire ; but the battle of Marathon, B.C. 490, drove back the invader, and laid the first great foundation of Athenian renown. Ten years later. Xerxes arrived with almost count less hordes, seeking vengeance, and partly obtained it, by laying the greater part of Athens in ashes. Defeat, however, overtook him at Salamis, and drove him across the Hellespont, a most inglorious, and almost a solitary fugitive. Mardonius, his satrap, still remained, and again obtaining possession of , Athens, left it a heap of ruins. But the victory of Plataea j rid the Athenians of Persian invaders, and opened a career of prosperity which, under the guidance of Themistocles, they were not slow to follow. The city suddenly rose with a magnificence which it had never before possessed, and was enclosed by a wall, which not only secured it against sudden incursions, but extended, so as to form a bulwark around its fleet. The Athenian naval supremacy being now established, an extensive commerce arose, wealth flowed in from all quarters, and the munificence of individuals vied with the state in extending and embellishing the city. This prosperity both made the Athenians arrogant and their neighbours envious. The Peloponnesian war broke out, and terminated most disastrously for Athens, which surrendered to the Spartans, B c. 404, was deprived of its fleet, and saw its Long Walls, and other maritime fortifications, demolished to the sound of music. It never completely recovered the shock ; and though not a few of its great names afterwards appeared, internal degeneracy, as well as outward force, con curred in preparing the Athenians for a foreign yoke. First Philip, and then Alexander (B.C. 336), became the generalis simo of the Greeks ; and no higher part was left for Athens than to furnish her quota of mercenaries to the intended in vasion of Persia. The Roman empire followed, and Athens finally fell under it, being taken by Sulla, B.C. 86. It after wards was repeatedly ravaged by the Goths ; but its worst degradation befell it in 1456, when it passed from the posses sion of Christian powers, and sunk under the domination of the Turks. A new era in its history has commenced. It is now the capital of a monarchy, at least nominally constitu tional, and has nothing but its own misconduct to prevent it from rising even to a higher eminence than it ever before obtained. Pop. (1845), 26,300. (Wordsworth; Thirlwall; Giflard; Clarke; Murray s Handbook; Leake s Morea.) ATHERINGTON, a par. England, co. Devon ; 2500 ac. ; W. South Molton. Pop. (1841), 629. ATHERSTONE [anc. Edrestone, and Adrestone],n market tn. and township, England, co. Warwick, 20 m. N.N.E. War wick, and 97 m. N.W. by N. London, situated in a valley screened by finely-wooded hills. It consists chiefly of one main street, which is but indifferently kept. The houses are irregularly built ; many of them are very ancient ; these are of stone, the modern buildings of brick. The town is amply supplied with water, and well lighted with gas. The chapel, anciently belonging to an Augustine priory, founded in 1376, has been recently entirely rebuilt, with exception of the old octagonal tower, which still remains. There are also in the town chapels for the Wesleyan and Independent Methodists ; and, in its immediate vicinity, are a convent and chapel for Romanists, both handsome structures. The educational means of the place consist of a free grammar-school, an endowed charity school, and an infant school. Hats and stockings are manufactured here, the former to some extent. Athcrstone is said to be the birthplace of Drayton, the poet. The Trent Valley Railway runs by the town; and the Coventry and Fazely Canal passes at its N. W. extremity, where extensive coal and lime wharfs have been constructed. The county magistrates hold a petty session weekly. Market-day, Tues day. Three fairs annually. Pop. of township in 1841, 3743. ATHEKSTOXE-UPON-STOUR is the name of a small parish in the same county, hun. Kingston; 1120 ac. Pop. 93. (Correspondent in Atherstone.) ATHERTON. See CIIOWBENT. ATHLACCA, par. Irel., Limerick; 5511 ac. Pop. (18-11), 1372. ATHLEAGUE, a par. and vil. Ireland, cos. Galway and Roscommon: 13,012 ac. Limestone and freestone, both of excellent quality, abound. Pop. (1841), 5087. ATHLONE, a tn. and barony, Ireland. The TOWN lies on the Shannon, about 67 m. W. by N. Dublin, and 12 N.E. Ballinasloe, partly in co. Westmeath, prov. of Leinster, and partly in co. Roscommon, prov. of Connaught, and stands almost in the centre of Ireland. It is divided by the river into two nearly equal parts, connected by a spacious and hand some new stone bridge of five arches, opened for traffic, for the first time, in November 1844 ; communication having been previously maintained by a narrow old bridge, erected in the time of Elizabeth, now removed. The two divisions were formerly called English town and Irish town, but are now known as the Leinster side and Connaught side. It is an ill-built, irregular, and ill-paved place ; and consists chiefly of narrow, dirty, crooked streets, and obscure lanes and alleys. It is composed of three parishes ; St. Peter and Kiltoom, in the barony of Athlone, co. Roscommon ; and St. Mary, in the barony of Brawney, co. Westmeath. The best private houses, and the only clean street in the whole place, are on the Leinster side. On the Connaught side is the castle of Athlone, erected in the reign of King John, and enlarged and strengthened in that of Queen Elizabeth, and now strongly fortified in the modern style. It was once the residence of the Lord President of Connaught, and completely commanded the old bridge. The town was incorporated by charter from James I., and received a further charter from Charles II. It derives im portance from being one of the chief stations or Government depots for troops and military stores in Ireland. The barracks, N.W. the castle, can accommodate 2000 men; to it an ordnance-yard, magazines, armoury, with muskets for 15,000 men, and hospital, are attached, all occupying an elevated position on the river above the bridge, and, with the three large ATHLUMNEY 243 ATIiNA squares for parade and exercise, cover at least 1 5 English ac. N.W. of the barracks, and outside the town, are extensive out- forts and batteries, commanding the main roads from Galway and Ballinasloe. The sessions -ho use is in the Connaught town. Besides the parish churches, there are four R. catholic chapels, including those of the Augustinian and Franciscan friaries ; also places of worship for Baptists, Presbyterians, and Wes- leyan Methodists ; a charter school, and several free schools, one in the barracks ; with branches of the national and pro vincial banks of Ireland, the usual municipal and county offices, several inns, and a union workhouse, opened in Nov. 1841. There are also two breweries, one of them very exten sive ; some large flourmills, and two distilleries. The manu facture of felt hats, which has long been carried on here to a considerable extent, is now declining. Friezes and linens are also manufactured. The markets, held three times a week, are well supplied with sea and river fish, vegetables, and meat. By means of a canal at Athlone, a mile long, constructed for the purpose of avoiding some fords, the Shannon is rendered navigable for 71m. above the town. The facilities for carry ing on trade here are further augmented by the grand canal from Dublin, which joins the Shannon 17m. below the town. The first bridge in Ireland is said to have been one built across the Shannon at Athlone, by Turlough O Connor, king of Con- naught, in 1 140. Athlone sent two members to the Irish Parlia ment, but sends only one to the British House of Commons ; constituency, 388. Pop. of tn. (1841), 6393. The BAEO.NY is 16 m. in length by 10 in breadth ; area, 146,185 ac. Pop. (1 841), 51,927. (Inglis s Ireland; Otway s TourinConnaught; Murray s Handbook for Ireland ; Parliamentary Papers.) ATHLUMNEY, par. Irel., Meath ; 2454 ac. Pop. (1841), 1269. ATHNASSEY, par. Irel., Limerick; 2837 ac. Pop. (1841), 1503. ATHNOWEN, a par. Ireland, co. Cork ; 4838 ac. There are some remarkable limestone caves in this parish, and the remains of an ancient castle. Pop. (1841), 1925. ATHOLE, or ATHOLL, a mountainous and romantic dist., the most N. part of Perthshire, Scotland, 45 m. long, and 30 broad. It comprehends a great portion of the ancient Cale donian forest ; and, along with Stormont, constituted, in the eighth century, the possessions of a Pictish prince. It con tains several lakes, and richly cultivated valleys ; and in the extensive forest of Athole game of various kinds is abundant. The pass of Killiecrankie, celebrated for the battle fought near it in 1689, in which Graham of Claverhouse was killed, is in this district ; it is a romantic, finely-wooded pass, rising steeply on either side of the Garry. Amongst the most beauti ful of its valleys are Glen Tilt and Glen Bruar. The district contains a nu.nber of villages. It gives the title of Duke to the ancient house of Murray. Athole is said to signify pleasant land, and Blair- Athole, the name of its principal valley, is the field or vale of Athole. The famed Athole Brose is a mixture of whisky and honey. (Pennant s Tour Anderson s Guide to the Highlands and Islands.) ATHOS (MOUNT) [Modern Greek, Hagion Oros; Italian, Monte Santo], the name given properly to a lofty mountain in the S.E. of Turkey, lat. 40 10 N.; Ion. 24 21 E., but generally applied to the whole of the narrow peninsula lying between the Gulf of Contessa, and the Gulf of Monto Santo, and separated from the mainland of prov. Salonichi by an isthmus, whose breadth from gulf to gulf, at its narrowest point, does not exceed 1 \ m. This peninsula, which stretches into the Archipelago N.W. to S.E. 25 m., with an average breadth of about 4m., is generally rugged, being intersected by innumerable ravines. The isthmus itself is flat and sandy, standing only a few feet above the level of the sea ; and traces have lately been discovered of the canal which Xerxes cut across it, to avoid a recurrence of the disasters which his fleet experienced in rounding the promontory; but immediately beyond the isthmus, at its N. end, the ground rises abruptly about 300 ft., forming the abutment of a plateau, which for 12m. maintains a height of 600 ft. From this point the pen insula becomes more decidedly mountainous, two of its heights reaching respectively to 1200 and 1700 ft. Near this stands the town of Karyes, picturesquely situated amidst vineyards and gardens. Beyond Karyes, both the height and the rug- gedness increase, and dark forests of oak, chestnut, and pine, extend without interruption to the foot of the mountain an isolated cone of white limestone or marble, resting on a gneiss and schistous base, and rising abruptly, particularly towards the sea, to a height of 6700 ft. The view from the summit is described as one of the finest panoramas in the world. The mountain belongs to Caloyers, or Greek monks, whose mon asteries, chapels, &c., are scattered over its sides, and have procured for it its modern name of Holy Mount. The monks attempt to trace their institution to the time of Con- stantine, but their earliest authentic documents do not go further back than the 10th century. The site of these mon asteries is very picturesque, but none of them have much architectural merit. They are remarkable chiefly for the solidity of their structure, and the precautions adopted to make them secure as places of defence. One principal mon astery, St. Laura, stands on the S.E. side of the mountain facing the sea. It looks like an ancient fortress surrounded with high blank walls, over the tops of which are seen numerous domes and pinnacles, odd-shaped roofs, and cypress trees. It encloses an irregular space of 3 or 4 ac., and has a front of about 500 ft. The only entrance is by a crooked passage defended by three iron doors. The interior consists of several small courts, and two large open spaces surrounded with two churches, and buildings to accommodate the monks. These at present are only 120. The whole number now inhabiting the peninsula, has been estimated variously from 8000 to 2500. The latter is probably the more accurate estimate. At one time the whole of the monasteries were rich in ancient MSS., but the monks were in general too illiterate either to read them or know their value. Several of the most ancient, which had become mere lumber, and must soon have rotted away altogether, have been happily saved, and now enrich various collections. (Curzon s Monasteries ; Handbook for the East ; Orographie de V Europe.) ATHY, a municipal and market tn. Ireland, co. Kildare, ir the parishes Athy St. John and Athy St. Michael, 20 m. S.W. Naas, and 37 m. S.W. Dublin; pleasantly situated on the Barrow, which is crossed here by a stone bridge of five arches. It consists chiefly of a main street and market square; having three Protestant and two E. catholic churches, two dissenting chapels, several parish schools, a dispensary, sessions-house, extensive county jail, fever hospital, large union workhouse, and police barracks. Athy, which was first incorporated in the reign of James I., is included in a circle extending 1 m. from the town, and governed by a mayor, two bailiffs, 12 burgesses, and a recorder. Before the Union it sent two members to the Irish Parliament, but was then disfranchised. It is, alter nately with Naas, the assize town of Kildare ; quarter-sessions are held in January and June, petty sessions every Tuesday, and a court of presentation is held in October. The modern importance of Athy is due to its position, at the junction of the Grand Canal with the Barrow, which is navigable hence to its mouth ; and it is also one of the chief stations on the Carlow branch of the Southern and Western Railway. It has a large trade in corn, which is sent in barges to all parts of Ireland ; and it has two weekly markets, with six annual fairs. The manufactures, however, are quite insignificant. On the W. bank of the river are the remains of Woodstock Castle, built, in the 15th century, by the seventh Earl of Kildare ; it is in tolerable preservation, and has a fine arched gateway and beautiful inullioned windows. Pop. (1841), 4698. -The PARISH of Athy St. John, partly in Queen s co., and partly in co. Kildare, comprises an area of 1123 ac. Pop. (1841), 394. The parish of Athy St. Michael, co. Kildare, comprises 1881 ac. Pop. (1841), 2849. ATIBAIA, a tn. Brazil, in the E. of the prov. Sao Paulo, on a river whence the town derives its name, 110 m. N.N.E. Santos. It has a church, townhouse, and prison ; and its in habitants, who are subject to goitre, cultivate the necessaries of life, and rear cattle and hogs for the market. Pop. of tn. and dist. 7000. ATIENZA, a tn. Spain, in New Castile, prov. Guadala jara, 18 m. W.N.W. Siguenza, on the E. summit of a rocky hill, surrounded by a dilapidated wall, flanked with 14 towers, entered by three gates. It has an old and extensive castle on its N. side, has ill-paved steep streets, a square, six parish churches, a hall of justice, a prison, an endowed school, hospital, and a convent. Pop., chiefly agricultural, 1983. ATINA [anc. Atinurn], a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di La- voro, dist. of, and 11 m. S.E. Sora, near the Melfa. It has a ATININENI 244 ATLANTIC OCEAN cathedral, a convent, and an hospital ; was formerly a bishopric, and is one of the most ancient towns of Italy, being named by Virgil amongst the cities that took part in the war between .<Eneas and Tumus, prince of the Kutuli. It was a Roman colony during the reign of Nero, and then considered one of the most populous and important in the empire. It has some manufactories of carpets. Pop. 6768. ATININENI, called also ATINIVENV, a large lake, Brazil, prov. Para, in Brazilian Guiana, between the rivers Negro and Japura, 1 10 in. above the junction of the former stream with the Amazon. It communicates S.W. with theCodaya, an arm of the Japnra ; and N.E. with the Negro, through the rivers Ananay and Jaumuhi. Its banks are covered with the copaiba plant. AT1TLAN, a lake and active volcano, Central America, republic Guatimala. The LAKE is 60 m. W.N.W. the city of Gualimala, 30 m. in length, about 10 m. in breadth, and entirely surrounded by rocks and mountains. There is little gradation of depth from its shores, and the bottom has not been found with a line of 300 fathoms. It receives several rivers, and all the waters that descend from the mountains, but there is no known channel by which this great body is carried of. Crabs, and a species of very small fish, are caught in it ; the latter are in immense quantities. The VOLCANO is in lat. 15 47 N. ; Ion. 91 28 W., and is 12,500 ft. in height. ATLANTIC OCEAN, the name given to the vast ex panse of sea lying between the W. coasts of Europe and Africa and the E. coasts of N. and S. America, and extending from the Arctic to the Antarctic Seas, or, as may with sufficient propriety be said, from pole to pole, being separated from the Pacific Ocean by lines drawn from Cape Horn and Cape Agul- has to the Antarctic Circle. Its greatest breadth is between the \V. coast of N. Africa and the E. coast of Florida in N. Ame rica, the distance here being 4150 m. If the Gulf of Mexico, in reality one of its bays, be included, it will extend to 5000 m. Its least breadth, which is between Norway and Greenland, is about 930 m. Between Cape St. Roque, Brazil, and Sierra Leone, the breadth is 1792 m. Its superficial extent has been estimated at 25,000,000 sq. m. From the number and extent of its inlets, gulfs, and bays, its coast lines are of great length, the E. being upwards of 32,000 m., and the W. upwards of 55,000. Its principal inlets and bays are Baffin s and Hud son s Bays, the Gulfs of Mexico, Honduras, and San Juan, the North Sea or German Ocean, the Bay of Biscay, and the Gulf of Guinea. The principal islands N. of the equator are Ice land, the Faroe and British Islands, the Azores, Canaries, and Cape de Verd Islands, Newfoundland, Cape Breton, and the W. India Islands; and S. of the equator, Ascension, St. Helena, Trinidad, Columbus, and Tristan da Cunha, the last three being mere rocks. The Atlantic is of vast depth. In lat. 15 3 S., Ion. 23 14 W., or rather more than half way be tween St. Helena and the E. coast of S. America, Sir James Ross tried soundings with a line of 27,600 ft. without finding bottom, this being the greatest depth yet satisfactorily ascer tained, although it is believed that many parts of the Atlantic are much deeper. Some of the other more remarkable depths recently ascertained are S. ATLANTIC OCEAN, 1841. Lat. 33 21 S. ... Ion. 9 (X K. ... 16,06 Ut. Sir James Ross. 27 26 ... 17 29 W. ... 14,550 ,, Do. N. ATLANTIC OCEAN, 1843. Lat. 25 53 N. ... Ion. 66 W. ... 19,500 ft. (line broke) Capt. Barnctt. 41 19 ... 44 16 ... 22,200 Do. In the Antarctic Ocean, the depth was found by Sir James Ross to be generally about 2000 ft., but on one occasion a line of 24,000 ft. failed to reach the bottom. The saltness and specific gravity of the Atlantic are greatest near the equator, diminishing gradually towards the poles, where they are affected by the melting of the ice. The degree of saltness is greater in the S. hemisphere than in the N., and is greater in the Atlantic than in the Pacific. The temperature of the Atlantic is higher in the N. than in the S. hemisphere, and is highest between lat. 5 45 and 6 15 N., where it has been found to be from 82 5 to 84 5 Fah. ; but in the Gulf of Mexico it attains a temperature of 88 52 . The maximum temperature of the Atlantic Ocean does not, therefore, cor respond with the terrestrial equator, the line of greatest warmth being found invariably N. of it. Currents. The great currents of the Atlantic are of two kinds, the drift current and the stream current. The former is produced by the wind, either by the perpetual or trado- winds, or by prevailing winds ; those having the former ori gin are constant, running always in the same direction, and generally with a nearly equal velocity ; those having the latter are not so constant, neither do they always run in the same direction, nor at a similar rate. The drift currents produced by the trade-winds are found between the tropics ; those result ing from prevailing winds, N. and S. of the parallels of 30. They are comparatively slow in their motions, proceeding at a rate of little more than half a mile an hour, and are confined to the surface or upper strata of water. The stream currents, again, the causes of which are but imperfectly known, extend to a great depth, and have, some of them, an average velocity of 60 m. per diem, the maximum reaching to 120 m. The great stream currents of the Atlantic are the Gulf stream, the Equatorial current, the N. African and Guinea current, the Southern connecting current, the Southern Atlantic current, Cape Horn current, RenneVs current, and the Arctic current. The Gfulf stream originates in the Gulf of Mexico, passes through the Strait of Florida, runs N. along the shores of that territory to lat. 31 N., then in a N.E. direction to about lat. 36 N., when it crosses the Atlantic, passes the W. of the Azores, and is lost in the ocean. Its entire length, from its commencement to the W. of the Azore Islands, is about 3000 geo. m., traversing in its course 20 degrees of latitude, or from 23 to 43 N. Its mean breadth is about 350 m. ; its broadest part is between 40 and 60 W. Ion., where it is upwards of 400 m. broad ; its narrowest, in the Strait of Florida and along the American coast to about lat. 34 N., where it does not exceed 60 m., and is often much narrower. Its compara tive mean velocity in the Atlantic is 35 m. in 24 hours. In lat. 26 and 27 N., it was found to have a velocity of 80 m. in 24 hours, and at the end of the Gulf of Florida, in the par allel of Cape Cannaveral, 5 m. an hour. On issuing from the Strait of Florida it is of a dark indigo blue colour, and is dis tinguishable from the green waters of the Atlantic for many hundred miles. The Equatorial current, so called from its being under the line, commences on the W. coast of Africa, about lat. 10 S., or nearly opposite San Paul de Loando. From this point it pursues a N.W. direction till it makes Ion., when it proceeds due W. on both sides of the equator, till it arrives at Cape St. Roque in S. America, when it is divided into two branches, one running along the Guiana coast, the other along the coast of Brazil, and so called, respectively, the Brazil current, and the Guiana, or main equatorial current. It throws off a third branch at Ion. 22 W., called the N.W. branch, from its taking that direction. The length of this current, from the coast of Africa to Cape St. Roque, is 2500 m. Its breadth, near the commencement, is 160 geo. m. ; opposite Cape Palmas, 360; and before dividing, about Ion. 31 or 32 W., it is 450. Its average velocity, which is greater in sum mer than in winter, is from 25 to 30 m. a day. The Guiana branch of the Equatorial current runs along the low coa.st of Guiana to the island of Trinidad, where it enters the Carib bean Sea. It extends about 500 m., and has a velocity, vary ing at different parts of its course, from 10 to 21 and 36 m.. per day. Temperature, 81 to 84. The Brazil branch flows at a distance of from 250 to 300 m. from the shores of S. Ame rica, and extends from six to seven degrees into the ocean. The average velocity of its N. portion is about 20 m. per day. The N. African and Guinea current originates in the sea opposite the coast of France, between Cape Clear in Ireland, and Cape Finisterre in Spain. It flows in a S.E. direction to Cape St. Vincent, when, after sending a mass of water into the Mediterranean, it pursues a S. course to Cape Mesurada, S. of Sierra Leone, keeping at a considerable distance from the land. It then flows rapidly for 1000 m. due E., to the Bight of Biafra, where it seems to mingle with the Equatorial current. The two currents come first in contact off Cape Palmas, where they are found running swiftly in opposite di rections. The breadth of the N. African and Guinea current varies with the season ; opposite Cape Palmas it extends to 180 m. It runs at the rate of 12m. per day near the begin ning of its course, but after passing Cape Mesurada its velo city is increased to 50 m. The S. connecting current is supposed to be united to the Brazil current, but this is not certainly known. It flows from about Ion. 40 W. in a S.E. direction, passes the Cape of Good Hope at the distance of about 150 to 180 m., and enters the Indian Ocean, where ATLANTIC OCEAN 245 ATLANTIC OCEAN traces of it are found 2000 m. beyond the Cape. The S. At lantic, or S. African current originates N. of the Cape of Good Hope, from which it flows in a N.W. direction, at a rate of from 15 to 30 m. a day, and eventually merges into the Equatorial current. Cape Horn current flows constantly from the Antarctic and S. Seas into the Atlantic Ocean, its general direction being E.N.E. and N.E. Its velocity off Tierra del Fuego is from 12 to 15 m. per day, but in other parts it attains a velocity of 52 and 56 m. per day. In the vicinity of the coast its average rate is about 24 m. per day. Rennet s current commences near Cape Finisterre, and, run ning along the N. coast of Spain, turns to the N. and N.W. along the W. coast of France, and traverses the English and Irish Channels ; it then passes Cape Clear in Ireland, and about Ion. 20 W. bends round, and, proceeding S., joins the N. African current. Its velocity is about 24 to 28 m. per day. The Arctic current is believed to originate in the masses of ice which surround the N. pole, whence it runs along the E. coast of Greenland to Cape Farewell ; having doubled this Cape, it flows up the W. coast of Greenland to about lat. 66 N., when it turns to the S. along the coast of Labrador. Arriving at the N. end of Newfoundland, it sends a branch through the Strait of Belle Isle, the main stream passing be tween the great and outer bank of Newfoundland, and event ually joining the Gulf stream between lat. 44 and 47 N. Immense masses of ice are borne S. by this current from the polar seas, and either strewn along the coast of Greenland, or carried into warmer regions, where they gradually dissolve and disappear. Many hundred icebergs have been seen at one time borne along by this current, and it has been calcu lated that 20,000 sq. m. of drift ice are annually brought by it along the coast of Greenland to Cape Farewell. Besides these great and enduring currents, there are many of a temporary character, of small extent, and of merely local influence ; these are the periodical currents occasioned by tides, monsoons, and other long-continued winds, and temporary currents arising from similar causes. Winds. The winds of the Atlantic, unlike its aqueous cur rents, are not peculiar to that ocean, but identical with those that prevail in the same latitudes in the other seas around the globe. The most remarkable of these are the perennial or trade-winds, which blow constantly in one direction, namely, from E. to W., or nearly so. They extend generally to 28 on each side of the equator, but are divided by a tract of sea, usually occupying a width of from six to eight degrees of lati tude, in which calms and variable winds prevail. The track of the trade-winds to the N. of this zone, which is almost al ways found on the N. side of the equator, is called the region of the N.E. trade-wind, from blowing one or two points N. of E. ; that to the S., the region of the S.E. trade-wind, from blowing S. of E. The N.E. trade-wind blows with less steadi ness than the S.E., but towards the W. India Islands it keeps generally steady between E. and N. E. The trade-winds are constant only at a considerable distance from land, and become more steady the greater the expanse of water over which they blow. They are exceedingly gentle, as well as equable, never rising into squalls, but always maintaining a uniform rate ; and as the sea is but little moved by their action, sailing in these regions is exceedingly pleasant. The voyage from the Cape de Verde Islands or the Canaries, both of which are, accord ing to the season, alternately situated in the very centre of the region of the N.E. trade-winds, to the W. Indies or Gulf of Mexico, is thus the most agreeable that can be imagined, and so safe, that it might be accomplished without the slightest apprehension of danger in an open boat, though a distance of several thousand miles. Beyond the limits of the trade-winds, in the temperate climates of both hemispheres, are the regions of the S.W. and N.W. winds; the former prevailing in the N. hemisphere, the latter in the S. The most desolating hurri- can^es of the Atlantic occur in the region of the W. Indies ; t^ey generally commence E. of the Leeward Islands, blow in a W.N.W. direction to about lat. 30 N., then bend round to the N E., forming a segment of a circle, whose beginning is in about lat. 10 or 15 N., and the termination about lat. 45 or 50 N. They, however, not unfrequently cross the Gulf of Mexico, and sometimes take other eccentric courses ; but the former is their more usual track. Their breadth has been estimated at 600 and 1000 m. The W. India hurricanes generally occur in the months of August, September, and October, rarely in June or July. It must be observed, how ever, generally, that both the space and position occupied by the various regions of wind in the Atlantic, though stated above with some precision, are in reality subject to Consider able changes in both respects, according to the season of the year ; the trade-wind advancing towards the N. with the pro gress of the sun in the N. hemisphere, and receding when it passes the equator on its return to the S. hemisphere. Tracks of Vessels Outward Voyages. Vessels sailing from Europe to the W. coasts of N. America keep to the N. of the j Gulf stream, which, if entered, would greatly retard their voyage, making a difference against them of probably about a fortnight. The usual and best course is between lat. 40 and 50 N., by which not only is the Gulf stream avoided, but, on nearing the American continent, the advantage of the coun ter current, which runs from Newfoundland to Cape Hatteras and Florida, is obtained. Vessels going to the W. Indies, or to the N. parts of S. America, direct their course to the S.W. immediately on reaching the Atlantic, in order to get as quickly as possible into the N.E. trade-winds, carefully avoid ing, however, too near an approach to the African coast, where, between Cape Nun and Cape Blanco, both tide and wind set in towards the shore, and have caused the destruction of many vessels that had come unguardedly within their influence. In going to S. America, S. of Cape St. Roque, vessels traverse the line between Ion. 18 and 23 W., keeping thus far to the E. in order to avoid getting into the Guiana current, which would carry them to the N. W., or nearly in an opposite direc tion to that desired. Having passed the line about the point specified, they make for the Brazil current, which, carrying them to the S., enables them to reach any part of the coast they choose. In sailing to the E. Indies, vessels now gener ally follow the track to Brazil ; holding S., they pass the rocky island of Trinidad on its W. side, and fall in with the S. con necting, or S. Atlantic current, which carries them E., but wide of the Cape of Good Hope. By this route, the voyage from the English channel to the Cape has been made in 59 days, the usual time by other courses being 70 days. Return Voyages. On returning from N. America to Europe, the Gulf stream, though flowing towards the latter, is equally avoided as in going out, it having been found that the loss sustained by the tear and wear of vessels in that stormy re gion, was not compensated by the gain in point of time ; they therefore keep to the N. of it in returning, as well as in going out. On returning from the W. ports of the W. Indies, and the ports of Central and S. America on the Caribbean Sea, vessels take the Mona passage, between Hayti and Puerto Eico, and immediately afterwards steer in a N.E. direction, so as to cut the parallel of 40 N., between the meridians of 30 and 35 W. Sometimes, however, they return by the Strait of Florida, which having cleared, they sail E. to avoid the Gulf stream, cross the Atlantic S. of the Bermudas, and subsequently either pass between Flores and the other Azores, or keep to the E. of the group. On returning from S. Ame rica, vessels keep near the coasts, in order to take advantage of the periodical and variable winds which prevail there. On crossing the equator, they steer for the Azores, and sail as j close with the N.E. passage wind as they did with the S.E. when proceeding to the S. hemisphere. In coming from tlio E. Indies or Cape of Good Hope, vessels sail with the S.E. passage wind to St. Helena, and crossing the line about Ion. 20 j W., steer for the Azores, where they fall into the tracks from the W. Indies to Europe. In the centre of the Atlantic is a vast eddy or whirl, caused by the revolution of the currents, which is thickly covered i with a sea-weed, called Sargasso or gulf-weed (Fucus natans), I in many places so closely matted as to retard greatly the pro gress of vessels. The space covered by this weed is upwards of 260,000 sq. m., extending from the meridian of 30 W. to the Bahama Islands, between the parallels of 20 and 45 N. Much of this weed is floated down the Gulf stream from the Mexican Sea. It was formerly supposed to have been torn : from the bottom of the ocean, but there is now good reason to i believe that it propagates in the sea. and vegetates floating. In the S. Atlantic there are evident signs of volcanic action, rocks and islands having from time to time appeared and dis- ; appeared. fee. At both extremities of the Atlantic, vast masses of ice are accumulated in a variety of shapes and sizes. The ATLAS (Mouxr) 246 ATOOI most remarkable are icebergs, ice-fields, and ice-floes. The first are often several miles in circumference, and rise from 180 to 200 ft. above the sea, with seven times as much below, as floating ice shows only one-eighth of its bulk above the surface of the water. These ice islands have the appearance of chalk cliffs, with a glittering surface, and emerald green fractures: pools of water of azure blue lie on their surface, or fall in cascades into the sea. The icebergs come to a lower latitude by 10 from the S. pole than from the N., being often seen near the Cape of Good Hope. They appear also to be larger; one observed by Captain D Urville was 13 in. long, with perpendicular sides 100 ft. high ; but they are more rare in the S. than in the N. Atlantic. The ice-fields are generally of much greater extent than the bergs, though, as their name would imply, not nearly so thick, seldom exceeding from 10 to 40 feet. Some of them extend 100 m. in length, with an average breadth of 50 m. These immense masses of ice chill the winds that blow from them, and cool the surrounding seas to a distance of 40 or 50 m. on every side. Sometimes they acquire a rotary motion of great velocity, and dash against each other with tremendous violence. The floe-ice is of com paratively small size, rarely extending to a quarter of a mile in circumference. Fish are met with in greater variety and abundance in the N. Atlantic than in the S. In the latter there are only whale- fisheries, while in the former there are the cod-fisheries of Newfoundland, the herring-fisheries of Great Britain, the pil chard-fisheries in the British Channel, and the whale-fisheries of Greenland, &c. (Lyell s Geology; Mrs. Sommerville s Physical Geography; Johnston s Physical Atlas; Eitter s Lex.; Sailing Directions.) ATLAS (MOUNT), an extensive mountain-system in N. Africa, the S. extremity of which commences near Cape Nun, in lat. 28 46 N., on the Atlantic Ocean, and, after traversing the kingdoms of Morocco, Algiers, and Tunis, terminates on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea, about Ion. 11 E. The general course of these mountains is from W.S. W. to E.N.E. ; but they do not, like most other systems, consist of one con tinuous and definite range, but of a congeries of elevations ; sometimes isolated, and sometimes connected, with endless branches and offsets, irregularly diffused over nearly the whole N.W. extremity of Africa. The Atlas Mountains have been divided generally into two principal and parallel ranges, running \V. to E., the one called the Greater, and the other the Lesser Atlas ; the latter lying towards the Mediterranean, and the former adjoining the Sahara or Great Desert, from which it is separated by low sandy hills. The entire course of the principal chain may be reckoned at about 1500 m., measured from Cape Nun, on the Atlantic, to Cape Bon or lias Iddah, on the Mediterranean Sea. Little is known of the heights of the Atlas Mountains ; in some places, however, they rise above the line of perpetual congelation, and, in many, approach it. The highest ascertained elevation is that of Miltsin in Morocco, stated, by Capt. Washington, to be 1 1,400 ft. high ; but their general altitude is moderate, as they do not shoot up into lofty peaks like the Alps, but consist principally of broad ridges and rounded summits. Of the geology, botany, and mineralogy of the Atlas range, we know hardly anything. As respects its geology, our information supplies only die fact, that granite, gneiss, and schist, appear on the higher peaks, and the lower parts of the ridges are formed by secondary limestone; while, as to botany, the few travellers who have penetrated these regions tell us, that on the S. side, or side next the desert, the lower ranges are covered with palm-trees, more especially date-trees; hence the name of this region, Beled-el-Jerid [the land of dates]. Higher up, gum-trees, almonds, olives, and other tropical productions, abound; while, on the table-lands, apples, pears, cherries, walnuts, apricots, &c., are grown in great quantities. Higher up still occur forests of immense pines. The mineral riches of the Atlas, so far as known, are silver, antimony, lead, copper, iron, rock-salt, saltpetre, &c. The precious metals, however, are confined to the province of Suse in Morocco, but even there they do not appear to abound ; the principal silver mine is situated about 150 m. S. W. from Morocco. Three hundred miles N.E. from the same place, a re mines of antimony and lead; copper is also plentiful in the same vicinity, though there seems but little activity on the part of the inhabitants in availing themselves of these resources. From the N. and W. slopes flow the principal rivers of Morocco and Algeria to the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea; and from their S. slopes flow numerous streams, nearly all of which are absorbed in the sands of the Sahara. The Atlas Mountains are infested by large and fierce lions, and abound in antelopes, monkeys, and porcupines. The inhabitants consist of various tribes of the aboriginal race, called the Berbers, a fierce and warlike people, who have always maintained an entire independence of all the neigh bouring powers, with whom they are frequently at war. The name Atlas is said to have been derived from Atlas, King of Mauritania, who, according to ancient fable, having been transformed into a mountain, was feigned to support the heavens on his shoulders. From the name of this mountain region came the name of the adjoining or Atlantic Ocean. These mountains also possess a classical celebrity from the frequent mention made of them by the ancients, particularly Herodotus, and the exaggerated notions which they seem to have entertained of their elevation. The Atlas, however, of the writer just named, was a single isolated hill, probably the highest of those at Cape Ghir or Gheer, as seen from the Atlantic; although several Greek authorities give the name to the branch terminating at Cape Spartel, at the Strait of Gibraltar. ATLIXCO, a tn. Mexico, state, Puebla, in a very fertile district, celebrated for its fruits and its fine climate; 20 m. S. La Puebla de los Angeles. ATOKO, one of the smallest of the Ionian Islands; lat. 38 30 N.; Ion. 20 43 E.; 5m. N.N.E. from the N. extre mity of Ithaca, and 9 m. S.S.E. from the nearest S. point of St. Maura. It is about 2 m. in length, and 1 m. in breadth. ATOLL, a singular description of coral formation peculiai to the Pacific and Indian Oceans. It consists of a ring of coral, sometimes circular, but more frequently oval, varying from 2 to 90 m. in diameter; about a quarter of a mile in breadth, oftener less, and from 6 to 12 ft. in height, enclosing a lagoon or portion of the ocean in its centre. The appear ance of these annular reefs is equally striking and beautiful. The ring is often covered with lofty cocoa-nut trees or other palms ; while round this band of verdure is spread a beach of glittering white sand, whose outer margin is encircled with a ring of snow-white breakers, beyond which are the dark waters of the ocean. The inner beach, also composed of white sand, encloses the still clear waters of the lagoon, which, when illuminated by a vertical sun, is of a most vivid green. The depth of the lagoon varies from 20 to 50 fathoms; but outside, the walls of the ring plunge at once into the un fathomable depths of the ocean, no bottom having been found, in some instances with a line of 1 m. long, within 200 or 300 yards of the reef. Ships often find safe anchorage in the tranquil waters of these lagoons, to which access is obtained by gaps or openings on the leeward side, where only they occur, the windward presenting always a high and unbroken wall ; the coral insects, by which it is reared, working with greatest vigour, activity, and perseverance on the stormy side of their structure, the agitation of the sea supplying them with a greater abundance of food than they can find in the still waters to leeward. Many of the atolls contain inhabited islands; and as they are generally fertile, and the waters of the lagoon in which they are situated swarm with fish, the inhabitants have the means of subsistence in great abundance. The most remarkable assemblage of atolls in the Pacific Ocean, is Dangerous Archipelago, E. of the Society Islands, which consists of 80, generally of a circular form, surrounding very deep lagoons, and separated from each other by profound depths; and the Caroline Archipelago, N. of the equator, which extends its atolls in 60 groups over 1000 m. In the Indian Ocean, the most perfect specimens of this peculiar formation are the Maldive and Laccadive Archipelagos (which see). (Horsburgh ; Lyell s Geology; London Geo. Journal, vol. ii.) ATOOI, or TAUAJ, one of the Sandwich Islands, lat. (E. point) 22 8 N. ; Ion. 159 2W W. (R.) ; about 240 m. N.N.W. Hawai or Owyhee. It is of an oval form, 40 m. long, and more than 24 m. wide at the broadest part ; area, between 600 and 700 sq. m. It slopes on all sides from an elevated centre to the sea, where it terminates in a high coast. Numerous wide, fertile, and well-cultivated valleys run from. ATOUGIA 217 ATTIKE A*D VIOTIA the shore inland. The only anchorage is the roadstead at Waime a, on the S. coast of the island. The number of in habitants is stated to be 10,000. ATOUGIA, a tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Estremadura, dist. Torres Vedras, at a short distance from the Atlantic, and 27 m. W. Santarem. It was a place of some consequence during the occupation of the famous Torres Vedras lines by the British. Pop. 1940. ATRAN, a river, Sweden, rising in a small lake near lat. 58 N. ; Ion. 13 35 E., and flowing N. for a few miles ; then turning rapidly S.S.W., it forms Lake Asunden, and after receiving several affluents, falls into the Kattegat at Falkenberg. ATRAN I, a vil. Naples, prov. Principato Citra, about 1 in. N. Amain, on the Mediterranean Sea. Pop. 2200. ATRATO, a river, S. America, New Granada, dep. Choco, having its sources in the mountains of the latter district; lat. 5 12 N. ; Ion. 76 43 W. It flows nearly due N., and, after a course of about 220 m. in length, falls into the Bay of Choco, the most S. part of the Gulf of Darien ; lat. 8 10 N.; Ion. 77 <Y W. The country drained by the Atrato and its affluents is extremely mountainous, and does not contain a level tract of any extent, except at its mouth. Considerable quantities of gold are obtained from its sands ; and several Europeans have settled on its banks, to prosecute gold- washing. It is navigable for a short distance only from its mouth by large vessels. It was at one time believed that a water communication, by the Atrato, existed between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans ; but this is now known to be incorrect. The junction was said to be effected by a canal connecting the sources of the Atrato and the San Juan, which latter river falls into the Pacific Ocean, on the W. coast of New Granada; but it has been ascertained that no such canal exists, and that the sources of these two rivers, though near, are in no way connected. ATRI, or ATRIA [anc. Hadria, or Hatria Picenci], a tn. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra I., dist. of, and 18 m. S.E. Teramo, 11 m. N. Civita di Penne, and 5 m. from the coast of the Adriatic; on a steep hill. It is the seat of a bishop, and has a cathedral, parish church, several convents, a theo logical academy, two hospitals, and a mont-de-piete. It is a place of great antiquity, and was at one time surrounded by walls ; but these, together with the town itself, have fallen ! into decay. It is said, though on questionable authority, to have given its name, Hatria or Hadria, to the Adriatic. There are some remarkable excavations in a hill near the town, con sisting of a number of chambers, wrought out with the greatest regularity; but to what purpose they were appropriated is unknown. They are supposed to be of very remote con struction. The Emperor Adrian was originally from this city. Pop. 6000. ATR1PALDA, a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Ultra, dist of, and about 1 m. E. Avellino. It has a collegiate and parish church, and several manufactories of cloth, paper, nails, iron, and copper, and a considerable trade in pork. Pop. 3797. ATTAH, a tn., N.W. Africa, 1. bank, Niger, 260 m. from its embouchure; lat. 7 15 N.; Ion. 8 30 E. It is situated close to the water s edge, in an elevated situation, on a fine green sward, and has a beautiful appearance. It is clean, of great extent, and surrounded with fine trees and shrubs. ATTAKEMBO, one of the smallest of the Peejee Islands ; lat. 18 25 S.;lon. 179 W. ATTANAGH, a par. Ireland, Queen s co., and co. Kil kenny; 2561 ac. Pop. (1841), 919. ATTARAM, a river in the Tenasserim provinces, having its source in the lofty range of mountains that separate the Tenasserim coast from Siam Proper. It flows in a N.N.W. direction, and falls into the Gulf of Martaban, at Moehnyne or Moulmein. opposite the N. end of the island of Balu, in lat. 16 25 N.; Ion. 97 37 E., having a course of about 92 m. It flows through a teak-clothed valley, formed by ranges of sandstone and limestone hills ; and on its banks may he seen sections of the secondary strata, composing beds of soft blue clay with ironstone nodules, and the shales of the coal basins, accompanied by a coarse calcareous conglomerate. (Jour. Ind. Archip.) ATTENBOROUGH, a par. England, co. Notts; 1930 ac.; 5 m. S.W. Nottingham, intersected by the Nottingham Canal, the Birmingham and Derby Railway, and rivers Trent and Erewash. Henry Ireton, Cromwell s son-in-law, was bovn here. Pop. (1841), 1036. ATTERCLIFFE-cuM-DARNALLA, a considerable vil. and chapelry, England, co. York, W. Riding; 1^ m. E. Sheffield ; situated on an acclivity, above the river Don. It has two principal streets, which are tolerably well kept. The whole village, which is straggling and irregular, is about three-quarters of a mile in length. The houses are chiefly brick, and generally well built. The supply of water is in adequate, and the quality indifferent. It is lighted with gas, and is, on the whole, improving ; it is also increasing in extent. The church, a handsome Gothic edifice, was built between 1822 and 1826, at an expense of 14,000. There are also an Independent and a Methodist chapel, and two schools, the town school for boys, erected in 1779; and the girls national school, erected in 1824, both of which are numerously attended. The inhabitants are employed in the manufacture of cutlery, and spades, scythes, anvils, &c., for the Sheffield manufac turers. Pop. of chapelry (1841), 4156. ATTERSEE, or KAMMEKSEE, a lake, Upper Austria, 40 m. S.W. Linz, about 12 m. in length, N. to S., and 3 m. in breadth. The river Ager flows from its N. extremity. It abounds in fish. The decaying village of Attersee, once cap. of the district, is situated on the N.W. side of the lake. ATTICA. See ATTIKE. ATTIGNY [anc. Attiniacum], a com. and tn. France, dep. Ardennes (Champagne), 30 m. N. Rheirns, 1. bank, Aisne. Manufactures : cloth, shoes, and biscuits. It has also worsted- mills, breweries, tanneries, and some trade in slates, coal, wood, &c. Its vast and splendid palace, of which some remains still exist, was often the residence of the Kings of France in early times. Here, too, in 786, Wittikind, a bold Saxon chief, received baptism, in presence of Charlemagne, his conqueror and godfather; and here, in 822, Louis Debonnaire was obliged to do public penance for the alleged maltreatment of his brothers. Pop. 1162. ATTIKE and VIOTIA [anc. Attica, and Bceotia}, a nome or prov. Greece, Roumelia, partly insular and partly mainland. The insular parts consist generally of the islands of Salamis, ^Egina, and Angistri (ivliich see). The mainland part joins Phokis and Phthiotis on the W. and N., and is connected with the Morea, on the S., by part of the narrow tract which forms the Isthmus of Corinth. In all other directions it is washed by the sea by the channels Talandi and Negropont, with the intervening Euripus, on the N.E. ; the Archipelago on the E. ; the Saronic Gulf, or Gulf of ^Egina, on the S.E. ; and the Gulf of Lepanto or Corinth, on the S.W. This nome, the territory of which anciently formed the independent states of Thebes and Athens, is now divided into the three eparchs or dioceses of Attike, Thiva, and Viotia; which again are subdivided into dome s or parishes, of which Attike has 16, Thiva 10, and Viotia 9. The capitals of the respective eparchs are Athens, Thebes, and Livadia. The territory is broken throughout by a succession of lofty ridges thrown off from the Pindus, and occasionally rising into mountains of considerable altitude. Of these, the principal are Hymettus in the S.E. of Attike , Fames on its N., and Cithaeron on its W. border; Helicon in Thiva; and, in the N.W. of Viotia, the loftiest and most cele brated of all, Mount Parnassus, or Liakura, 7570 ft. high. The principal river is the Gayrios or N. Cephissus, which, in the lower part of its course, flows through a spacious fertile plain, and falls into Lake Topolias. This lake, the ancient Copais, notwithstanding of its receiving this river, with smaller streams, and having no visible outlet for its waters, continues somewhat unaccountably to be little more than a marsh, with some deep pools. After heavy rains, however, it is subject to overflowings ; one of which, of unusual magni tude, is supposed by some to be fabled under the name of Deucalion s Flood. The only other rivers deserving of note are the Asopo, which flows E. into the channel of Negropont, and the classic streams of the Ilissus and Cephissus, the for mer washing the E. part, and the latter watering the spacious plain of Athens. The minerals of the district are of great cele brity, and the working of them might still, it is thought, yield profitable returns. In ancient times, Athens owed much of its wealth to the silver mines of Laurium, situated in the pen insula which terminates in Cape Colonna; and the beautiful white marble in which its architects and statuaries embodied ATTINGHAUSEN AUBE their glorious conceptions, lies inexhaustible in the mountains The nome, as a whole, is of indifferent fertility, its rugged nature adapting it more for pasture than for tillage. The chief exception is to be found in Boeotia, whose rich plains are almost associated in our minds with the idea of fertility. Tlirougl out the territory the most celebrated vegetable products con tinue to be, as before, the vine and the olive. The modern province embraces the whole of ancient Attica, and the greater part of Boeotia. ATTINGHAUSEN, or ETTIGHUSEN, a vil. Switzerland, can. Uri, 1 m. S.W. Altdorf, 1. bank, Reuss. On a rising ground in the vicinity, near the pretty little church, are the ruins of the castle of the Masters of Attinghausen. It was the dwelling-place of Walter Furst, one of the founders of the Swiss confederacy. Pop. 507. ATTLEBOROUGH, a market tn. and par. England, co. Norfolk, W. division, on the London road, 15 m. S.W. Nor wich, in the midst of a flat, open country, well wooded, and highly cultivated. The TOWN consists of one principal street, upwards of a mile in length, built on each side of the road. The houses are not constructed on any regular plan, but some of them are well built, and all are of brick. The town is sup plied with water from wells ; it is not lighted. The church, the only architectural object in the town deserving notice, is an ancient cruciform structure, with a square embattled tower, built in the commencement of the 15th century. It con tains many interesting monuments. There are in the town places of worship for Primitive Methodists, Baptists, and the Society of Friends ; and a large new national school, in which about 200 children are taught. Market-day, Thursday, chiefly for corn. Two fairs annually. Attleborough is a very ancient town, having been a place of considerable importance during the Saxon era. The PARISH comprises 5247 assessable ac. Pop. (1850), about 2000. ATTLEBRIUGE, par. Eng., Norfolk; 810 ac. Pop. (1841), 94. ATTOCK, or ATAC, a fort, enclosing a small tn. Punjab, on a rock, 1. bank, Indus, about 1 J m. below the confluence of the Cabool,. 200 m. N.W. by N. Lahore; lat. 33 54 N. ; Ion. 72 18 E. ; on the line of the great route between Af ghanistan and N. India. Attock commands the entrance from the Punjab into the Khyber Pass, by which it is said Alexander the Great, Tamerlane, and Nadir Shah, in different ages, have crossed the Indus and invaded Hindoostan. During the mili tary operations against the Afghans in 1841-42, the British forces frequently marched on the same line. The former fort and town of Attock, built by Akbar in 1581, were swept away by a sudden and tremendous inundation of the Indus in the latter end of June or beginning of July 1841, when hundreds of other towns and villages were also carried away, and many thousands of human beings perished. Both town and fort have been since rebuilt. The Indus at this spot, says Baron Hiigel, is a clear, rapid, but unimportant stream, seven-eighths of its sandy bed being quite dry at this season of the year. Both banks are steep ; on the N. they soon become nearly level, but on the S. side, on the contrary, they increase in steepness, and lofty hills arise, to all appearance, from the river itself. The banks, which rise abruptly on both sides from the sandy bed, are about 80 ft. high above the level of the water. The bridge, and the river in its present state, may be from 40 to 45 fathoms across, and the stream in the middle about three deep, but the breadth between the two shores must be at least 300. During the rainy season the river is tilled from bank to bank, the waters rising at this time as much as 50 ft. ; when the bridge, which is admirably contrived, and made of the very best timber, is taken to pieces, the boats being employed to navigate the stream. (Travels in the Punjab.) Other authorities give 30 ft. for the lowest, and 80 ft. for the greatest depth of the river. On the opposite bank from Attock are a large fort and village named Khyrabad, said by some to have been founded by Akbar ; by others, by Nadir Shah. The pop. of Attock is estimated about 2000, though it once was much more. (Hiigel s Travels ; Thornton s Gazetteer.) ATTRI, or ATTREE, a river, Hindoostan, presid. Bengal, formed by an offset of the Teesta ; lat. 26 22 N. ; Ion. 8848 E. It flows S., passes near Dinagepoor, traverses dist. Kajshahye flowing S.E., expands into numerous marshes and small lakes, and falls into an offset of the Brahmapootra; lat. 23 59 N.; Ion. 89 45 E.; 60 m. W.N.VV. Dacca; total course, 252 m.; navigable in the wet season for boats of 30 to 40 tous. ATTU, or ATTOU, the most W. of the Aleutian Islands ; in lat.(W. point) 52 58 N.; Ion. 172 17 W. (R.); nearly 70 m. in length, and about 30 in breadth. It has the same repulsive and sterile aspect as the other islands of this chain. ATTWOOD S CAY, or SAMANA, one of the Bahama Islands ; lat. 23 5 5" N. ; Ion. 73 49 W. ; 10 m. long, S.W. to N.E., and about 1 m. broad. ATTYMASS, par. Irel., Mayo ; 11,154 ac. Pop. (1841), 3435. ATWICK, a par. and township, England, co. York, E. Eiding; 2100 ac. Pop. (1841), 300. AU, the name of nearly 140 villages in Austria ; one of them, in the circle of Briick, of some importance, from its extensive works for making coke, and its iron-foundries. Numerous other places, also, particularly in Bavaria, Baden, and Prussia, have the same name. AUBAGNE [Latin, Albania, Aubania], a tn. France, dep. Bouches-du- Rhone (Provence), on the Huveaune, 10 m. E. Marseilles. The old town stood on the top and S. side of a hill of shale, overlaid by a thick layer of pudding-stone, but has been abandoned for the new town, which lies below, on both sides of the great road from Marseilles to Toulon, and is built with some degree of regularity and elegance. It has numerous cloth manufactories, a magnesia-work, potteries, distilleries, tanneries, paper-mills, &c. ; and a trade in wine, fruits, pot-herbs, and the products of the different works already mentioned. Various antiquities have been found in the neighbourhood. Pop. 3887. AUBE [anc. Alba], a river, France, rising in a range of hills near the village of Praslay, at the extremity of the wood of Auberive, dep. Haute Marne, and running S.E. to N.W. through the dep. of Aube, to which it gives its name. It becomes navigable at Arcis, 22 m. from its embouchure, and falls into the Seine a little above Marcilly, its whole course being about 113 m. AUBE is also the name of a small river of Champagne and Picardy, which flows into the Oise ; and of two villages in France, the one in Lorraine, and the other in Normandy. AUBE, a dep. France, formed out of the S. part of Cham pagne and a small portion of Burgundy, and comprised between lat. 47 55 and 48 42 N., and Ion. 3 24 and 4 48 E. ; bounded, N. by dep. Marne, E. by Haute Mame, S.E. by Cote- d Or, S. and S.W. by Yonne, and W. by Seine-et-Marne ; greatest length, 72 m. E. to W. ; breadth, 57 ; area, 609,000 hectares, or 1 ,504,839 ac., equal to 2351 sq. m. The surface is undulating, with few hills of great height, and consists generally of a slight covering of loam, resting on a subsoil of chalk. It is not of equal quality throughout. In the N. and N.W. it is extremely sterile, producing only scanty crops of oats, rye, and buckwheat. The land is bare of trees, and almost of vegetation ; large tracts, deemed incapable of repay ing the expense of cultivation, are allowed to lie waste. In the S.E., again, the soil is remarkable for its fertility. It consists of an alluvial deposit of great depth. This district abounds in all the ordinary grain and pulse crops, yields large quantities of hemp of the finest quality, is well planted with vineyards, and possesses extensive forests, which, after satis fying the local consumption, leave a large surplus of wood and charcoal for the supply of Paris. The whole arable land of the department is 983,928 ac. ; meadows, 93,575 ac. ; vine yards, 57,270 ac. ; wood, 199,132 ac. ; orchards, nursery- grounds, and gardens, 9583 ac. ; lakes, &c., 5695 ac. ; heath and uncultivated land, 55,102 ac. About 122,222 pipes of wine are produced annually, one-half of which is exported. The best wines are those of Riceys, Bar-sur-Aube, Bouilly, Laine-au-Bois, and Javernaut. Horses, horned cattle, and sheep are reared to a limited extent. Much attention is paid to poultry, and the rearing of bees. Small game, wild boars, stags, and roebucks are plentiful. The department is traversed S.E. to N.W. by the river Aube (which see), from which it derives its name. Among the streams of less importance are the Armance, the Mogne, and the Vanne. In the N. parts are about 100 tarns or ponds, which furnish carp and other fish. Stone quarries exist in various parts, and chalk and marble are also worked, but in minerals the department is poor. The principal manufactures consist of cotton and woollen stuffs, and yarn, hosiery, particularly nightcaps and stockings ; flan AUBEL 249 AUCH nels, blankets, ribbons, hardware, and earthenware ; brandy, beet-root sugar, glass, leather, and paper. In 1844 there were 2500 looms, and 3500 workmen occupied in the weaving of cotton, producing about 30,000 pieces of cloth ; 5400 looms, employing 3600 work-people, produced annually 80,000 dozen caps, and 270,000 dozen pairs of stockings. The spinning of wool furnishes yearly about 800.000 Ibs. of yarn, and that of cotton about 1,000,000 Ibs. of yarn. The tanneries produce yearly about 110,000 skins of leather. The trade of Aube is principally in grain, wine, brandy, pork, cheese, biscuits, hemp, wool, firewood, and charcoal for Paris, hosiery, cloth, and other articles of manufacture. Capital, Troyes; other towns, Arcis-sur-Aube, Bar-sur-Aube, Bar-sur-Seine, Nogent- sur-Seine, Brienne, where Napoleon was educated, Romilly, and Clairvaux. The dep. of Aube is divided into five arronds. and 26 cans., subdivided into 447 corns. Pop. (1846), 261,881. (Diet. Geo. et Stat. ; French Official Tables.} AUBEL, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. Liege, 9 m. N. Verviers, with manufactures of woollen cloth and tobacco. It has also spinning-mills, brick and tile works, breweries, freestone quarries, a considerable trade in butter, cheese, and pigs, and an important weekly corn-market, at which the greater part of the province of Liege, and part of that of Limburg, obtain their supplies. Pop. 3260. AUBENAS [Latin, Albiniacum], a tn. France, dep. Ardeche (Languedoc), 13 m. S.W. Privas, r. bank, Ardeche, at the foot of the Cevennes. It is picturesquely situated, on a height in a rich country, and surrounded by the volcanic mountains of the Vivarais, but the streets, with one exception, are narrow, crooked, and dirty; the squares small and in elegant ; and the houses, as a whole, irregularly built. It has a court of commerce, a royal college, and a high school. Its old Gothic castle, occupied during the wars of religion alternately by Romanists and Huguenots, is still in good preservation, and now accommodates nearly all the public and municipal offices. Aubenas is the great mart for the sale of the chest nuts of the department, and of the silks of Ardeche. Reeling and throwing silk are carried on extensively. In the town there are manufactures of cotton, coarse cloths, and coloured handkerchiefs; also tanneries, dye-houses, &c., and the banks of the river are lined with corn, oil, paper, and other mills. Aubenas has several important fairs. At two of them silk is sold to the value of 83,000 sterling. Pop. 4262. (Murray s Handbook; Diet. Geo. et Stat.} AUBERVILLIERS, or NOTRE-DAME-DES-VERTUS, a vil. France, dep. Seine, 5 m. N. Paris. It has a sugar re finery, and is surrounded with gardens, which help to supply Paris with vegetables. Pop. 2444. AUBETERRE, a vil. France, dep. Charente (Perigord), placed in the form of an amphitheatre at the foot and on the slope of a hill, and traversed by the Dronne. The hill is crowned with an ancient castle, and immediately beneath is the parish church. The manufactures are coarse cotton, and paper, and some trade is done in corn. Pop. 672. AUBIERE, a tn. France, dep. Puy-de-D6me (Auvergne), 2 m. from Clermont. In the vicinity some common red wines are produced. Pop. 3183. AUBIGNY. 1, [Latin, AlUniacum,] a tn. France, dep. Cher, 27 m. N. Bourges. It is traversed by the Nero, and is ugly and ill built. It has manufactures of cloth, druggets, serges, and leather, and a considerable trade in a white wool known by the name of Sologne. Pop. 2381. There are several little towns of the same name in various parts of France. 2, A tn. Lower Canada, r. bank, St. Lawrence, opposite Quebec. It was laid out, in 1818, in marine villas for the opulent merchants of Quebec, and has a Protestant church, &c. AUBIN, a tn. France, dep. Aveyron, 17 m. N.N.E. Villefranche ; consisting chiefly of one long street on the side of a hill. It is supposed to have been built by the Romans, to whom several ancient excavations in the rock are attributed. The district of Aubin is remarkably rich in minerals pyrites, sulphur, alum, but particularly iron and coal, which furnish materials for several blast furnaces, and malleable ironworks, situated chiefly at Decazeville and La Forezie. A consider able quantity of linen is sent into Aubin from the neighbour ing communes, and disposed of principally at its fairs. Pop. 1537. There are several other small towns and villages in France named AUBIN. VOL. I. AUBIN (ST.), a market tn., isl. Jersey, in a large bay of B same name, opposite St. Ilelier. It consists principally of one street, and contains a parish church, chapel of ease, an endowed meeting-house for Independents, and a Wesleyan Methodist place of worship. The pier, which is commodious and strongly built, projects from a rock, surmounted by a fortress called St. Aubin s Castle. At low water, the rock and harbour are left dry, but at high water there is a depth of 30 ft. within the pier. There are some handsome villas in the vicinity, inhabited mostly by Jersey families. Pop. (1841), 2170. (Inglis s Channel Islands.}. AUBONNE, or ALPONA, a tn. Switzerland, can. Vaud, on a river of the same name, 12 m. W. Lausanne, and about 3 m. from the Lake of Geneva. It has an old church, in which are some curious sepulchral inscriptions. It occupies a delight ful situation, and commands an extensive prospect, including the Lake of Geneva, with Mont Blanc towering in the distance beyond. In this locality are made some of the most esteemed wines in Switzerland. Pop. (Protestants), 1534. AUBOURNE, a par. and township, England, co. Lincoln ; 3090 ac.; S.W. Lincoln. Pop. (1841), 374. AUBURN, tha name of a number of places in the U. States, the most important of which is the capital of Cayuga co., state of New York, situated on the outlet of the Owasco Lake, 169 m. N.W. Albany. It is a thriving and beautiful village, and contains some handsome buildings, a theological semin ary, the Auburn female seminary, the Auburn academy, seven churches, belonging to various religious denominations, two banks, and a number of manufactories of various descriptions, ncludiug tanneries, distilleries, and a brewery, and four weekly icwspapers. It is, however, chiefly remarkable for its state- prison, erected with a view to the adoption of a new system of prison discipline, the principal feature of which was solitary confinement, and a total deprivation of social intercourse. Having been found, when pursued in its utmost rigour, to pro duce the most serious effects on the health of the prisoners, and even to render some of them insane, the system, though still partaking largely of its original principle, has been considerably modified, the prisoners being now allowed to work together, but not permitted to hold any conversation. The outer wall of the prison encloses a space of ground 500 ft. square. The principal building, which is within this wall, is of three sides, with a front of 276 ft., each of the sides being 242 ft. long. It contains 555 cells, capable of holding only one person, each being 7 ft. long, 3 j wide, and 7 ft. high. They are well ventilated, and are arranged in five stories, opening into galleries. This part of the building is so constructed, that the slightest whisper in the space in front of the cells can be heard on the ground story. Pop. 5626. AUBURN, or ALDBOURNE. 1, A vil. and par. England, him. Selkly, co. Wilts, N.E. Marlborough, formerly a market town, but, being nearly destroyed by fire in 1760, its trade fell off, and the market was discontinued. Area of par. 8060 ac. Pop. (1841), 1556. 2, [Formerly called Lislimj,] a hamlet, Ireland, par. and barony of Kilkenny West, co. Westmeath, about 6 m. N.E. Athlone, the supposed scene of Goldsmith s poem of the Deserted Village. AUBUSSON, a manufacturing tn. France, dep. Creuse, 20 m. S.E. Gue>et, in an arid, sterile district, in a mountain gorge, and surrounded by rocks, which give it a very pictur esque appearance. It is traversed by the Creuse ; and con sists of but one street, broad, and well built, is the seat of a court of primary jurisdiction and a communal college, and possesses a theatre, a literary club, and an agricultural society. The principal manufacture is of carpets, of a superior descrip tion ; besides which, cloth, velvet, hats, silk, and thread are made. Tanning and dyeing are carried on ; and a good trade is done in salt, wine, and pulse. Pop. 4828. The ARRON- DISSEMENT of Aubusson is divided into 1 cantons and 100 communes; area, 860 sq. m. Pop. (1846), 106,795. AUBUSSON is also the name of two villages ; the one, dep. Puy- de-D6me, with pop. 796; and the other, dep. Orme, with pop. 601 . AUCH [anc. Elimberis, Ausci\, a city, France, cap. dep. Gers (Gascogne), 42 m. W. Toulouse; lat. 43 38 39" N.; Ion. 35 19" E. (L.) Built in the form of an amphitheatre, on the summit and side of a hill, it presents a very picturesque appearance. The Gers divides it into the upper and the lower town, which communicate with each other by means 32 AUCHENAIRN 250 AUCKLAND of a long flight of stairs, of more than 200 steps. The upwards of a mile in length; the houses of which it is formed streets are narrow and crooked, but well paved. The Place Royale, in the upper part of the town, is a fine square, ter minated W. by a beautiful promenade, which commands a view of the Pyrenees. The cathedral, founded in 1489, but dt-s Uepnrteinenta de la Franc*?. not completed till the reign of Louis XIV., is one of the finest Gothic edifices in the S. of France. The vaulted roof, and carved woodwork of the choir, are greatly admired ; and the painted windows, executed by Armand de Moles in 1513, are of exceeding richness and beauty. The hotel of the prefec ture is one of the finest of the public buildings, and the town- house is an elegant structure. The town is the seat of petty courts of justice and a tribunal of commerce, and contains a royal college, a large hospital, a departmental normal school, a scientific seminary with a library of 15,000 volumes, an agricultural society, a museum, a drawing academy, barracks, and a theatre. The neighbouring district yields corn, wine, and brandy, and is famous for its fruits. The principal trade is in wine, wool, quills, brandy of Armagnac, and ship timber; and the manufactures are of coarse woollen and cotton stuffs, thread, worsted velvet, serges, crapes, leather, and hats. In the vicinity, a torquoise mine was formerly worked. Auch is one of the most ancient towns in France, and great numbers of Roman antiquities have been brought to light by means of extensive excavations. Pop. (1846), 7572. AUCHENAIRN, a vil. Scotland, co. Lanark, par. Cad- der, about 3 m. N.E. Glasgow. Part of it, called Old Auch- enairn, is of considerable antiquity, and stands near a spot which is supposed to derive its name of The Tombs, from having been used as a burial-place during the plague. The more modern part is of recent construction, and owes its existence to the iron mines which have been opened in its vicinity, and give employment to the greater part of the in habitants. There is an endowed school in the village, but no place of worship. At a short distance S.W. of Auchenairn is Robroyston, where Wallace was betrayed by the fause Men- teath. AUCHINLECK, a vil. and par. Scotland, co. Ayr. The VILLAGE, which is 10 m. E. Ayr, and 14 m. S.S.E. Kilmarnock, consists chiefly of a row of houses on each side of the Glasgow and Dumfries road. The PARISH is upwards of 20 m. in length, and more than 8 in breadth. It abounds in limestone; coal also has been found, and in some places is wrought to a considerable extent. A considerable portion of the pop. subsist by handloom weaving for the Glasgow manufacturers ; the more common fabrics being light silks and muslins. Snuff box making is also a very general employment. Boswell, the biographer of Dr. Johnson, resided in this parish, where he was visited by the great lexicographer on his return from the Journey to the Hebrides. Pop. of par. 1659. AUCHTERARDER, a tn. and par. Scotland, co. Perth. The TOWN is IS^m. S.W. Perth, and about ISm.N.E. Stirling, on the public road between these two towns. It consists chiefly of one principal street, broad, and tolerably clean, and _ built of stone, roofed with blue slate, and generally two stories high occupying both sides of the highway. It is well supplied with water, and lighted with gas. There are four places of worship in the town, the parish church, the S. and N. U. Presbyterian churches, the latter a handsome Gothic edifice; and the Free Church, built in 1843, and surmounted by a handsome square tower, 75 ft. high ; and four schools, in one of which gratuitous education is given to 22 poor children. The principal occupation of the inhabitants is weaving, there being about 500 looms in the town, chiefly employed by Glasgow houses in making pullicats, ginghams, tweeds, galas, &c., the last being one of the most import ant articles manufactured in the locality, about 20,000 pieces being made annually. The linen manufacture formerly carried on here, was super seded, towards the close of last century, by the cotton fabrics. Auchterarder is a place of con siderable antiquity, and appears to have been of more importance formerly than now. In 1716, the town was burned by order of Prince Charles Edward, who, at the same time, promised indem nification to the inhabitants, the measure being one of some supposed political necessity, but the promise was never fulfilled. In modern times, the parish has acquired notoriety from the litiga tion carried on by the Earl of Kinnoul, the patron, and his presentee, against the presbytery, with reference to the well-known Veto Act ; the termination of which, in favour of his Lordship, led to the formation of the Free Church of Scotland. The par. is 8 m. long by 3 m. broad. Pop. of par. and tn. (1841), 3434. AUCHTERDERRAN, par. Scot., Fife ; 920 ac. Pop. (1841), 1143. AUCHTERGAVEN, par. Scot., Perth ; 19,000 ac. Pop (1841), 3366. AUCHTERHOUSE, par. Scot., Forfar; 3567 ac. Pop. (1841), 769 AUCHTERLESS, par. Scot., Aberdeen ; 1 6,000 ac. Pop. (1841), 1685. AUCHTERMUCHTY, a tn. and par. Scotland, co. Fife. The TOWN is 9 m. W. Cupar, and 24 m. N. Edinburgh ; has three principal streets, and a number of lanes. The houses are of stone, some of two stories in height, but mostly of one only, with clay or earthen floors. The town is well supplied with water, and is lighted with gas ; and has a parish church, built in 1779, a Free church, three U. Presbyterian churches, and five schools, including the parish school. A savings -bank was instituted here in 1821, the deposits in which, in the be ginning of 1850, amounted to 5054. Damasks, dowlas, sheetings, tweels, drills, stripes, checks, &c., are manufac tured in the town and parish to a considerable extent. In these branches of industry, 1516 persons, about one-half fe males, are employed. Distilling and malting are carried on to a considerable extent, the latter considerably improved of late years. Auchtermuchty was erected into a royal burgh by James VI., and although not now recognized as such, it still enjoys all the privileges of that rank. - The PARISH is about 3 m. in length, and from 1 to 2 in breadth. Pop. (1841), of tn. and par. 3356; supposed to be now (1850) about 3700. AUCHTERTOOL, a small vil. and par. Scotland, co. Fife, at the foot of the Cullalo hills. It contains an extensive brewery, long famed for its ale, porter, and table-beer, the first of which is much used in London. The par. is about 3 m. long broad. Pop. (1841), 530. by 1 AUCKLAND, a maritime co. New S. Wales, 60 m. in length and 40 in breadth ; contains about 1,536,000 ac. It possesses some fertile tracts, the most extensive of which is that comprising the plains of Bega. Pop. upwards of 1000. AUCKLAND," a port, and thriving settlement, in New Zealand, isl. of New Ulster; lat. 36 51 30 S.; Ion. 17545 E. (R.) The town consists of two streets, one running down a rather steep little hill, and the other at the foot, running off to the left at a right angle ; from these streets numerous small lanes diverge in various directions. It has a number of good, though small shops, and a great many pot-houses, the latter AUCKLAND - BISHOP 251 AUDE accounting for a remark of Capt. Hayes, of H.M.S. Driver, who visited Auckland in 1847, that he had never seen so many drunken men collected together, at one time, in such a small place before. On a hill above the landing-place is the church, an ungainly red building, and close by is the govern or s house. The general appearance of the town is not pre possessing. The harbour is good and safe, and the water of great depth, but the landing-places are exceedingly bad ; and at low water, and even half ebb, are unapproachable, from the extent of soft mud that stretches far out into the sea. The anchorage is abreast of the town. Prevailing winds, S.W. and N.E. Auckland, however, is a thriving place; its cus toms duties in 1848 exceeded 20,000, being nearly 7000 more than they were in 1847. Its wealth and population are also rapidly increasing. For this prosperity it is indebted in a great measure to its position, which is on the E. side of a narrow isthmus connecting the N. and S. portions of the island, and thus affording an easy communication with both the E. and W. seas. There is a small rope manufactory in the town. Provisions are tolerably abundant, and the climate agreeable and healthful. The country around is not remark able for fertility, but yields sufficient for the present popula tion of the settlement. A considerable extent is now under cultivation, including some market gardens in the immediate vicinity of the town. Pop. (1844), 2754; in 1847, 5217. AUCKLAND -BISHOP. See BISHOP-AUCKLAND. AUCKLAND ISLANDS, a group of islands in the S. Pacific Ocean, lying S. of New Zealand, discovered August 18, 1806, by Abraham Bristow, of the ship Ocean, a S. sea whaler belonging to the Messrs. Enderby; lat. (S. Cape) 50 56 S.; Ion. 166 7 E. (E.) The group consists of Auckland Island, Tie AUCKLAJSTD ISLANDS. 30 m. long by 15 in extreme breadth, and several smaller islands, as Adams, Enderby, Rose, Ocean, Ewing, Disappoint ment Island, &c., separated from each other by narrow chan nels; total area, about 100,000 ac. The Auckland Islands are of volcanic formation, and composed chiefly of basalt and greenstone, and have a wild picturesque appearance. They are so highly magnetic in many places, that the group may be com pared to an enormous magnet. The highest land, Mount Eden, is only 1325 ft. above the sea level, and there being few preci pices, the whole surface is covered with vegetation. Dr. Hooker says, A low forest skirts all the shores, succeeded by a broad belt of brushwood, above which, to the summits of the hills, extend grassy slopes. On a closer inspection of the forest, it is found to be composed of a dense thicket of stag-headed trees, so gnarled and stunted by the violence of the gales, as to afford an excellent shelter for a luxuriant undergrowtli of bright green feathery ferns, and several gay-coloured herbs. The woods consist entirely of four or five species of trees, or large shrubs, which are here enumerated in the order of their relative abundance, Metrosideros lucida, Dracophyllum longifolium, Panax simplex, Veronica elliptica, and Coprosma fcetidissima. 1 For further information on the botany of these islands, see Hooker s flora Antarctica. There are no land quadrupeds except the domestic pig in a wild state. It was introduced by Captain Bristow, and now is exceedingly plentiful. The land birds are tolerably numerous in individuals, but consist of few species, and these chiefly such as are common to New Zealand. Hawks, cormorants, snipes, penguins, gulls, and the albatross, are abundant. Insects are numerous and trouble some. The climate of the group is humid, and the mean temperature rather under that of Great Britain. Violent gusty winds are frequent. These islands possess several harbours, but the best is on the E. side of Auckland Island, and is named Rendezvous Harbour, having a stream of water flowing into it. The upper end of this harbour is called Lawrie Harbour, which is completely land locked, and is suitable for vessels re quiring to heave down or undergo extensive repair, the steep S. shore affording great facilities for loading and unloading ; highest spring tides, about 3 ft. Another good harbour is called Sarah s Bosom ; lat. 50 38 S. ; Ion. 165 28 E. The channel between Rose and Enderby s Islands might, in calm weather, be mistaken by strangers ; but it is only fit for boats. At the N.E. cape of Enderby s Island are some strong whirl pools. The Auckland Islands are frequently visited by French vessels, and by vessels from the U. States, for the purposes of refitting and refreshment, though hitherto much neglected by our own. They are admirably situated for a whaling station, from their proximity to the fisheries, as well as to our colon ies of Australia and New Zealand ; and possess the great na tural advantages of commodious harbours, and a plentiful supply of good water and wood. The Government of Great Britain, to whom they belong by right of discovery, have granted the exclusive possession of these islands to the Messrs. Enderby, by whom a company has been formed for carrying on from thence the S. sea whale-fishery. (Ross s Antarctic Expedition, 1839-43; U. States Exploring Expedition.) AUCUTTA, one of the Laccadive Islands, off the Malabar coast; lat. 10 51 N.; Ion. 72 17 E. It is about 3J m. in length, and half a mile in breadth ; is planted with cocoa-nut trees, and has a considerable population. AUDE, a dep. in the S. of France, formed of part of Lower Languedoc, so called from the river Aude, which runs through it; bounded, N. and N.E. bydeps. Herault and Tarn, E. by the Mediterranean, N.W. by Haute-Garonne, W. by Ariege, and S. by Pyrenees Orientales ; greatest length, E. to W., about 76 m.; breadth, N. to S., 50 m.; area, 1,497,790 ac., or 2340 sq. m. The surface presents three groups of mountains, the Montagne- Noire, or black mountains, a continuation of the Cevennes, on the N. ; the Corbieres, on the E. ; and the Pyrenees, whose N. slopes constitute nearly two-thirds of the whole department. Though generally mountainous, the country is traversed by a great longitudinal valley, extending from W. to E. (the upper part watered by the Fresquel, and the lower by the Aude), with many smaller valleys opening into it. The soil in the more elevated parts is dry and unfruitful, but in the lower districts it is fertile. It yields, according to the position of the locality, good crops of wheat, maize, oats, rye, and buckwheat, in quantities more than sufficient to supply the wants of the department. The vine and the olive, especially the former, are cultivated to a considerable extent. Salsola, or salt-wort, is gathered here, and exported in large quantities to Italy and elsewhere. Honey forms an important article of trade ; that of Narbonnc being esteemed the finest in France. The cultivable land, including meadows, vineyards, forests, &c., occupies aboui two-thirds of the surface ; the remainder is heath and uncul tivated land. A considerable quantity of wine is produced. The white wines, in general, are considered superior to the red ; but both the red and white wines of Limoux, particu larly its Champagne du Midi, and the blanquette of Bages, are among the most esteemed. Great attention is paid to irri gation, and the meadows, both artificial and natural, produce abundance of forage for the cattle. Asses and sheep are numerous. A prodigious quantity of poultry is raised, and exported in large numbers ; considerable quantities being sent to Spain. The ciimate is very variable ; a good deal of rain AUDE 252 AUGSBURG falls in the S W. Even in summer, hail and snow are not unfrequent among the mountains. The hot winds, of which there are two, the Marin or Autan, from the S.E., and the Cers from the N.W., sometimes blow with a fury that occa sions great damage. The mineral productions consist chiefly of copper, lead, and iron ; also marble in great variety, and some coal and slate, j On the coast, along the shore of the Mediterranean, are numer ous shallow lagoons, called Etangs. The salines or salt-pits in the vicinity, eight in number, yield about 374,300 cwt. of salt yearly. The inhabitants carry on considerable manufactures, especially of woollen cloth (chiefly at Carcassonne, Castelnau- dary, and Limoux), a large quantity of which is exported to the Levant. The other principal products are flour, verdigris, paper, leather, glass, tiles, bricks, steel files, combs, and small articles of bijoutry, with some turnery and toys. Great facili ties are afforded to trade by the river Aude, which traverses the dep. S.W. to N.E. ; by the Canal of Languedoc, which crosses it E. to W. ; and by the Mediterranean. At its only port, La Nouvelle, in the Gulf of Lyons, between 100,000 to 140,000 qrs. of grain are annually shipped. Aude is divided into four arronds., 31 cans., and 434 corns. Pop. (1846), 289,661.- (Diet. Geo. et Stat.; Ingliss S. of France; French Official Tables.) AUDE [Latin, Atax; Italian, Aldo], a river, S. of France, rising in the Etang de 1 Aude, near the village of Angles, dep. Pyrenees Oriental es, about 4 m. N.W. the town of Mont- louis. Its whole course is less than 130 m. ; and for some part it runs nearly parallel to the Canal of Languedoc. It re ceives several tributaries, of which the principal is the Orbieu, and falls into the Mediterranean Sea. AUDENARDE, orOuoENARPE [Flemish, Oudenaerden], a fortified tn. Belgium, prov. Hainaut, 15 m. S. Ghent, and 20 m. N. Tournay, situated at the base of a hill in the valley of the Scheldt, which runs through it. It contains three churches, of which that of St. Walburge is as early as the 10th century ; and a townhouse, a handsome Gothic structure, built in 1540, and possessing a carving in wood by Paul Van- derschelden, which is regarded as a masterpiece, and said to equal anything of the kind that France or Italy has produced. Au denarde has courts of primary jurisdiction and of commerce, a college, free communal schools, an academy of design, two orphan houses, and several other benevolent institutions. Its principal trade is in linens ; of which, on an average, 20,000 to 25,000 pieces are annually sold in its markets. It has also extensive tanneries and breweries, dyeworks, soapworks, salt- refineries, oilmills, and manufactures of cotton, ribbons, gloves, and tobacco. The celebrated battle which bears the name of Oudenarde, in which the French were signally defeated by the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eugene, was fought under its walls. Pop. 5670. AUDENHOVE (ST. MARIA), a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. E. Flanders, 9 m. E. Audenarde. It has some linen manufactures, breweries, and flourmills. Pop. 2425. AUD1ERNE, a tn. and com. France, dep. Finistcre, on a bay of the same name, a little above the mouth of the Goyen, 20 m. W. Quimper. Its situation is picturesque, and it has a good harbour, with some trade in dried fish ; but the whole coast, lined with steep rocks, is very dangerous, and so often the scene of shipwrecks, that many of the inhabitants live only by the plunder obtained from them. Pop. 1446. AUDINCOURT, a vil. France, dep. Doubs, 4 m. S.E. Montbeliard, r. bank, Doubs. It is famed for its ironworks, which produce annually 3000 tons of pig, and more than 2000 tons of malleable iron, 20,000 cases of sheet-iron, and 500 tons of iron-plate. It has also a manufactory of spindles, a cotton spinning-mill, and a tannery. Pop. 2024. AUDLEM, par. Eng., Cheshire; 11,780 ac. Pop. (1841), AUDLEY, par. Eng., Stafford; 8140 ac. Pop. (1841), 4474. AUDRUICK, a tn. France, dep. Pas de Calais, 12 m. E.S.E. Calais, at the E. extremity of an agreeable and fertile plain ; with oilmills, breweries, tanneries, and a salt-refinery. Pop. 1165. AUE, the name of several small places in Germany, par ticularly: 1, Atn. Saxony, circle of, and 12m. S.E. Zwickau. It has an old townhouse, a knitting school, and a tin furnace and stamping-mill. In the neighbourhood are tin mines, buds of porcelain earth, and stone quarries. Pop. 1130. 2. Tha name of several rivers of Germany, particularly of two in Hanover ; the one of which joins the Aller on its 1. bank, near Cette, and the other falls into the Elbe a few miles below Horneburg. AUERBACH. 1, A tn. Saxony, circle, Zwickau, bail, of, and 13 m. E. Plauen, on the Gbltzsch. It has considerable manufactures of muslin, and plain and embroidered lace. It has also a needle-factory, a bell-foundry, and a paper-mill. Pop. 3612. 2, A pretty vil. Hesse Darmstadt, about 12 m. S. Darmstadt, with mineral springs and baths, which contain a large quantity of iron, and are not much resorted to. It has a manufacture of clocks. Its castle of Fiirstenlager, built in 1780, is the summer residence of the Grand Duke. Pop. 1600. There are numerous other places in Germany named AUERBACH, all of them small. AUERSTEDT, a vil. Prussia, dist. of, and 25 m. S.W. Merseburg, on the frontier of Saxe- Weimar. Pop. 437. It is only remarkable for the defeat of the Prussians by the French, October 14, 1806. AUGELA, a tn. Tripoli ; lat. 29 15 N. ; Ion. 22 E. Routes from Egypt and the coast of Tripoli, which is about 150 m. distant, to Murzook, in Fezzan, pass through it. AUGGUR, a tn. Hindoostan, prov. Malwa, 40 m. N.E. | Oojein ; lat. 23 43 N. ; Ion. 761 E. ; between two artificial lakes, on a rocky height, 1 598 ft. above the sea. It is sur rounded by a stone wall, and contains a well-built native forti fication, but is chiefly composed of mud houses, in 1820, 5000 in number. AUGHABEY, an important coal dist. of Ireland, on the N. border of co. Roscommon, Connaught. The quantity of coal has been estimated at from 3000 to nearly 5000 tons per acre. A railway connects the Aughabey colliery with the Arigna ironworks. AUGHAGOUR, par. Ire., Mayo; 55,048 ac. Pop. (1841), 12,235. AUGHALOO, par. Ire., Tyrone; 19,583 ac. Pop. (1841), 9867. AUGHANAGH, par. Ire., Sligo ; 8839 ac. Pop. (1841), 2714. AUGHANUNCHON, par. Ire., Donegal ; 4012 ac. Pop. (1841), 1649. AUGHAV AL, or OUGHEVAL, par. Ire. , Mayo ; 33,695 ac. ; excellent limestone abounds, and both lead and copper mines were formerly wrought here. Pop. (1841), 13,441. AUGHAVEA, par. Ire., Fermanagh; 17,142 ac. ; con tains quarries of excellent freestone. Pop. (1841), 1254. AUGHAVILLAR, par. Ire., Kilkenny ; 5671 ac. Pop. (1841), 1997. AUGHER, a market tn. Ireland, co. Tyrone, 15 m. S.W. Dungannon, in a rich undulating valley, watered by one of the head streams of the Blackwater. It has a poor, though pleasant appearance, without any bustle, except on market- days. In its vicinity is Augher Castle. Pop. (1841), 753. AUGHMACART , par. Ire., Queen s co. ; 9601 ac. Pop. (1841), 3667. AUGHNACLOY, a market tn. Ireland, co. Tyrone, 1. bank, Blackwater, 13 in. W.N.W. Armagh. It consists of one principal and three smaller streets. A few of the houses are of brick, and roofed with slate, but the greater part are thatched. There are here a R. catholic chapel, and places of worship for Presbyterians, Wesleyans, and Methodists; several public and private schools, and a convenient market-house. Market-day, Wednesday. Fairs for live stock on the first Wednesday in every month. Pop. (1841), 1841. AUGHNAMULLEN, par. Ire., Monaghan ; 30,710 ac. Pop. (1841), 18,219. AUGHNISH, par. Ire., Donegal; 9195 ac. ; contains several extensive bleachfields. Pop. (1841), 4974. AUGHRIM. See AGHIUM. AUGHTON. 1, Apar. England, co. Lancaster; 4410ac.; S.W. Ormskirk, on the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. Pop. (1841), 1560. 2, A par., co. York, E. Riding; 4200 ac. ; N.N.W. Howden, on the Derwent river. Pop. (1841), 634. AUGSBURG [Latin, Augusta Vinddicorum], a city, Bavaria, cap. prov. Swabia and Neuburg, on a rising ground, in a fertile plain, at the angle formed by the junction of the Wertach and the Lech, 35 m. N.W. Munich ; lat. (St. Ulric s Tower) 48 21 42" N. ; Ion. 10 54 16" E. (L.) It is sur AUGSBURG AUGSBURG rounded with walls and ditches, but not fortified ; divided into the upper, middle, and lower towns, and intersected by four canals. Augsburg is the residence of a bishop, and the seat of a court of appeal. Although irregularly built, with close, narrow, and ill-paved streets, it contains many handsome edi fices, and some elegant squares adorned with fountains. Most of the houses are old, large, and lofty ; and many of them have carved, painted, and scrolled fronts, adorned with frescoes, the subjects of which are usually taken from Scripture, or the legends of saints. The finest street is Maximilien Strasse ; distinguished by its length and breadth, its three bronze foun tains, and the townhall or Math-haus, a civic palace, of Italian architecture, esteemed the finest in Germany. Adjoining the townhall are the Perlach tower, a lofty belfry, ascended by a ing the principal cannon-foundry in Bavaria. Besides these, there are manufactories of articles in gold and silver, silver lace, coloured papers, ribbons, mirrors, carpets, chemical stuffs, with bleacheries and dyeworks. An extensive trade is done in printing, engraving, and bookbinding, and the celebrated Algemeine Zeitung, the leading journal of Germany, started in 1798, is published here. But the principal branches of busi ness to which this city owes much of its modern importance, are banking and stock exchange operations ; Augsburg, next to Frankfort, being one of the most influential money markets on the Continent. It is also the emporium of the merchandise, and the chief mart for the sale of the wines of Italy. Switzer land, and the. S. of Germany ; and hence has an extensive transit trade. Its mercantile establishments are above 200, and its annual circulation, in bills and merchandise, varies in value from 3,000,000 to 4,000,000 sterling. It is connected by a railway with Munich, and, in the opposite direction, with Niirnberg, Bamberg, and Saxony. Augsburg is a place of great antiquity, the Emperor Augustus having established a colony there about 12 years B.C. Ravaged by the Huns in the fifth century, it subsequently came under the supremacy of the Frankish kings, and was nearly destroyed in 788, in the war of Charlemagne against Tassilo, Duke of Bavaria. After the division of the empire of the Franks, it became part of the dominions of the Duke of Swabia, and having acquired riches by its commerce, finally obtained its freedom from the Duke, by a purchase which was, in 1276, confirmed by the Emperor. The city now reached the summit of its prosperity, and was, together with Niirnberg, the principal entrepot be tween N. and S. Europe, until towards the end of the 15th century, when the discoveries of the Portuguese and Spaniards gave a new direction to the commerce of the world. Among its principal merchants in the 15th and 16th centuries, were the families of Fugger and Welser. In 1550, a daughter of MAXIMILIEN STRASSE, TOWNHALL, AND PEKLACH TOWKR, AUGS1JURG, From Prout s Sketches in France and Gtrmany. staircase of 500 steps ; and the arsenal. Among the other remarkable objects are the bishop s palace, now used for Government-offices, where the Confession of Augsburg was presented to the Emperor Charles V. in 1530 ; the halle, a handsome commercial mart and storehouse ; the public library ; the academy of arts, founded in 1820; the cathedral, an irre gular Gothic building, erected in the 15th century, and con taining a fine picture by Domenicheno ; and the church of St. Ulric, with a tower 350 ft. high, from which a fine view of the surrounding country is obtained, and in such immediate juxtaposition with a Lutheran church as to be apparently under the same roof. The city possesses a polytechnic insti tution, a Catholic seminary, a Protestant gymnasium, a gallery of paintings, besides an orphan asylum, and a saving s-bank ; numerous educational establishments, and 15 churches, of which five are Protestant. The Benedictine abbey of St. Stephen, formerly a convent of noble ladies, is now appro priated to the education of youth. It comprehends a royal lyceum, a gymnasium, and a Latin school ; the first having five professors, the second seven, and the last eight teachers. There is also a seminary attached to this institution, super intended by a director and two prefects, in which 54 students are educated. The town is surrounded by wooded alleys, promenades, and private gardens; and in front of the cathedral the Grand Parade is a pleasant place of public resort. Augsburg has been long distinguished by its commercial spirit, and by the activity and industry of its inhabitants, and, although not now so important a place as formerly, is still the seat of extensive manufactures. The principal public works are four cotton factories, spinning and weaving, one of them having 808 power-looms and 40,000 spindles, and employing 1500 work-people ; a flaxinill, silk-factory, machine-factory, paper-mills, brass foundry, and the military foundry, contain- 6. Arsenal ;. < Imivh and Towtr of St. Ulrii 8. Theatre. S. Infirmary and Lunatic Asylu the burgher Welser, Philippina, the most beautiful woman of her time, became Archduchess of Tyrol, by marriage with Ferdinand, son of the Emperor Ferdinand I. The patrician house of Fugger the Rothchilds of the Middle Ages car ried on trade at the same time both with the E. and W. Indies in ships of their own, were proprietors of the richest mines in AUGST 254 AULONA 1 Europe, and more than once replenished, from their own pri vate resources, the exhausted treasuries of the Emperors .Maximilian and Charles V. They received from the former patents of nobility, and the privilege of coining money. In the following century (1619) the family numbered, in its five branches, 47 counts and countesses of the empire, all tracing Iheir origin from a simple weaver of Augsburg. The name and the family are still numbered among those of the German noblesse; but many of its branches have died off, and the liv ing descendants of the patrician stock are reduced in fortune and influence proportionately with the city from which they sprang. (Murray s Handbook.) Augsburg early took a con spicuous part in the Reformation, with which, foe a long series of years, its history is closely connected. Here the celebrated Confession which bears its name, and which was drawn up by Mr land In in under the auspices of Luther, was, in 1531, pre sented to the Emperor Charles V. Here, in 1548, that mon arch promulgated his Interim, a futile attempt to suppress the Reformation by giving up two of the most obnoxious dog mas of Popery communion in one kind, and the celibacy of the clergy; and more than all, here, in 1555, was concluded the celebrated treaty which secured the Protestants in the full enjoyment of their rights and liberties. Augsburg is the birthplace of Holbein the elder, and other eminent artists. Pop., including 13,000 Protestants, 38,000. (Murray s Hand book; Heal EncyMopcidie; Huhn s Lex. Deutschland.) AUGST, or AAKOAU-AUGST, and BASEL-AUGST, two vils. Switzerland, connected by a bridge over the Ergolz, at its junction with the Rhine, 6 m. E. Basel. Aargau-Augst, for merly Kaiser-Augst, is in can. Aargau, and has pop. 322. Basel- Augst is in can. Basel, and has pop. 231. Both of them occupy the site of Augusta Jiawacorum, a Roman colony which was ravaged by the Huns in 450. Some Roman re mains still exist, and numerous coins, medals, &c., have been found in the neighbourhood. AUGSTHX)LZ, or AUGSTHOLZBAD, a bathing-place of considerable resort, prettily situated near the S. side of the Baldegger See, in the N.E. of can. Luzern. On a gentle rising ground in the neighbourhood, stands an ancient castle, once a commandery of the Knights of Malta, supposed to have been founded in the 1 1 th century. AUGUSTA, a vil., W. Australia, cap. co. Sussex, on Hardy s Inlet, Flinder s Bay; lat. 34 18 S. ; Ion. 115 9 E. AUGUSTA, two towns, U. States:!, Cap. of co. Ken- nebec, Maine. It lies on both sides the Kennebec river, 35 m. above its embouchure in the Atlantic, and at the top of the sloop navigation. The principal buildings are, the state-house, a handsome structure, with Doric portico of eight columns, situated on an eminence a little S. of the town ; the U. States arsenal, a large stone edifice on the E. side of the river; the State insane hospital, a fine granite building, with wings, and 70 ac. ground; the high school, and nine churches. Agriculture, manufactures, and commerce, are in a flourishing condition; tonn.in 1844, upwards of 3000. Pop. of township (1840), 5314. 2, A city, Georgia, cap. co. Richmond, 1. bank, Savannah, and 110 m. N.W. the city of Savannah. It is a regularly built, handsome town, contain ing a city hall, courthouse, arsenal, jail, &c. ; is connected with Charleston, Milledgeville, and various other places, by the Georgia Railroad and branches, and has, by these means, and the navigation on the Savannah, a considerable trade, par ticularly in cotton and tobacco. Pop. (1840), 6403. Several other places in the U. States have the same name. AUGUSTENBERG, a small tn. Denmark, prov. Schles- wig, isl. Alsen. It consists of one well-built street, and has a small harbour and dock. In the environs are a palace and park of the Duke of Augustenberg. Pop. 800. AUGUSTINE (ST.), a city and seaport, U. States, E. coast, Florida; lat. 29 54 N.; Ion. 81 26 W. (R.) It was formerly of more importance than now, a circumstance chiefly attributable to the badness of its port, which is shut up by a bar, having not more than 5 ft. at low water, and even in spring tides not more than 8 or 9 ft. A lighthouse on the N. end of Anastasia Island, with a fixed light, marks the en trance to the port. Previous to the acquisition of Florida by the U. States, the population amounted to 40UO or 5000; in 1840, it was only 2459. AUGUSTINE (ST.). 1, A bay [called Isalare by the na tives], S.W. coast, isl. Madagascar (into which falls the Dar- mouth, or Onolahe river), visited by British, U. States , and French vessels, who purchase provisions for beads, gunpowder, muskets, rum, &c., and supply themselves with indifferent water (Naut. Mag.) -2, The N.W. isl. Lord Mulgrave s Archipelago, S. Pacific; lat. 5 38 S.; Ion. 176 6 E. (K.) 3, An isl. Carolines; lat. 7 24 N.; Ion. 155 55 23" E. 4, A volcano isl., N. Pacific ; lat. 24 30 7 N. ; Ion. 141 30" E. ; about 900 m. E. by S. of the Loochoo group. 5, The most E. capeof S.America, in Brazil; lat.821 S.; lon.345G W.(K.) 6, A cape, New Grenada, N.E. Cartagena; lat. 10 14 6" N. ; Ion. 80 49 35" W. 7, A cape in the S.E. of isl. Mindanao ; lat 6 4 N.; Ion. 126 13 E. (K.) 8, A river, Labrador, falling into the river St. Lawrence in lat. 51 N., Ion. 59 W. AUGUSTINUSGA, a vil. Holland, prov. Friesland, 17 m. E. Leeuwarden. It is a scattered village, prettily situated in a wooded district, and has a Calvinistic church (which, in 1580, was burned and plundered by the Spaniards), and a school. The inhabitants are mostly engaged in agri culture and cattle-rearing. Pop. 600. AUGUSTOW, a prov. and city, Russian Poland. The PROVINCE is one of the eight woiwodies or palatinates into which Poland was formerly divided, and is the most N. part of the kingdom, lying next Russia Proper, between lat. 52 40 and 55 5 N. Area, about 7000 sq. in. A large portion of its surface is occupied by marshes, lakes, and forests. It is divided into five circles, and contains 47 towns, 276 com munes, and 155 parishes, cap. Suwalki. Pop. 310,000. The TOWN of Augustow is 20 m. S. Suwalki on the Netta. It was founded by Sigismund Augustus, in 1557, and has some woollen and linen manufactories, with a trade in horses and cattle. Pop. 3350. AUKBOROUGH, par. Eng., Lincoln; 2540 ac. Pop. (1841), 528. AULDEARN, a par. (6J m. long by 5 broad) and vil. Scotland, Nairn. South the village, in 1645, the Marquis of Montrose defeated the Covenanters. Pop., vil. (1841), 351 ; par 1466. AULENDORF, a market tn. Wiktembcrg, circle, Danube, 33 m. S.S.W. Ulm; on the Schussen ; cap. barony of same name. It is very old, and said to be of Roman origin. Close to it is the fine castle of the Counts of Konigsegg- Aulendorf, containing a valuable library, and a fine collection of pictures. Pop. 980. AULETTA, a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Citra, dist. La Sala, 36 m. S.E. Palermo ; situated on a pleasant hill, at the base of which flows the Negro. It contains four monls- de-pitte, and was founded by a Grecian colony. Pop. 2863. AULLAGAS (LAGUNA DE), a lake, Bolivia, in the valley of Desaguadero, which lies between two lofty ranges of the Andes, at an elevation of about 13,000 ft. Lake Aullagas receives, at its N.W. extremity, the river Desaguadero, which flows from the Lake of Titicaca, situated in the same valley, but at a greater elevation. The point at which the river falls into the lake is 12,280 ft. above sea level. The Laguna de Aullagas is intersected, towards its S. extremity, by the parallel of 19 S. It is said to have no fish, and has no known outlet. The banks are inhabited by the Aullagas Indians, whence its name. AULNE, a river, France, which, rising near Lahuee, in the chain of the Menez or Black Mountains, on the confines of dep. Cotes du Nord, first flows S. through dep. Finistere, till it meets and becomes part of the canal from Nantes to Brest. At Chateaulin it again assumes the form of a river, and, flowing W., falls into Brest harbour. Its whole course is about 70 m. Its chief tributaries are the Eleze, the Dou- fine, and the Hiere. AULONA, AVLONA, or VALONA [anc Avion], a tn. European Turkey, prov. Albania, 94 m. N.W. Janina; lat. (custom-house) 40 27 12" N. ; Ion. 19 26 45" E. (it.) ; on a bay of same name, environed by hills terminating S. in Cape Linguetta. It stands on a hill surrounded by a wall, and has on the S. a small fortress called Canina, built upon a steep rock. The streets have a dirty appearance ; and though pos sessing several mosques, and a Greek church, Aulona, as a whole, has the appearance of an Italian town. Unwholesome marshes in the vicinity, occasioning endemics, oblige the in habitants, during the warmest season, almost to desert the place. The bay, protected at its entrance by the island cf AULPS 255 AURORA Sasseno, forms a safe harbour ; but being in general rocky, affords bad anchorage, except close to the town, and at its S. recess, named Porto Ragusano. The Turkish inhabitants manufacture arms, which are in much repute ; and woollen stuffs ; while the Christians, and a few Jews, are principally employed in commercial pursuits. The exports consist chiefly of salt, pitch from the mines of Selenitza, olive-oil, wool, gall- nuts, and valonia ; and from Italy it receives in return gun and pistol barrels, glass, paper, and Calabrian capotes. Aulona is the seat of a bishop of the Greek church. The country around produces excellent wine, of which, however, little is made ; also tobacco, oil, and corn, all of good quality. The town was nearly depopulated by the plague in 1800. Pop. about 5000. AULPS. See Aurs. AULT, a small seaport, France, on the English Channel, dep. Somme, 18 m. W.S.W. Abbeville; it has several cotton- mills, manufactures of ironware, and is one of the principal places whence Paris is supplied with fish. Pop. 1371. AULT-HUCKNALL, par. Eng., Derby; 3730 ac. Pop. (1841), 678. AUMA, a tn. Saxe- Weimar, principality of, and 7 m. S.E. Neustadt, on a small affluent of the Elster; has two churches, an hospital, some cotton and woollen manufactures, together with a dyework, tannery, brewery, and several mills. It has also six markets, chiefly for cattle. The town was at one time larger than at present, but has suffered much both by war and fire. Pop. 1355. AUMALE [anc. Alba Mama], a tn. France, dep. Seine Inferieure (Normandy), 15 m. E.N.E. Neufchatel ; pleasantly situated in an extensive meadow, watered by the Bresle, and hemmed in on all sides by richly wooded hills. It is ill built, and has a communal college, manufactures of serges, blondes, China ware, and coarse woollens ; worsted and fulling- mills, and a bell-foundry; and a trade in cattle, cloth, leather, &c. In 1592, Henry IV. of France was wounded on the bridge of this town, in an action with the troops of the League, and narrowly escaped being taken. Pop. 1 697. AUNSBY, par. Eng., Lincoln; 1250 ac. Pop. (1841), 117. AUPS, or AULPS [Latin, Alpes, Villa Alpium], a small anc. tn. France, dep. Var (Provence), 13 m. W.N.W. Dra- guignan ; built on a plain, at the foot of a mountain. The streets are narrow and dirty ; but the public square, in which the parish church stands, is handsome, and is adorned by a fountain of white marble, of which there are quarries in the district. It has tanneries, and some trade in corn. Pop. 2568. AURAY [anc. Auraicum], a small seaport tn. France, dep. Morbihan (Bretagne), 17 m. S.E. Lorient; on a hill slope, at the bottom of a deep bay, into which the small river Auray falls ; lat. 47 40 4" N. ; Ion. 2 49 28" W. (c.) Its harbour, which is excellent, and adorned with a fine quay, is deep enough to admit vessels of large burden; and its build ing-docks appear to be fully employed. On the height occupied by the upper part of the town, stands the church of the Holy Spirit, an extensive Gotho- Arabic edifice of the latter part of the 13th century. Manufactures : cotton thread, lace, tiles, bricks, &c. Trade (coasting) : corn, fruit, cattle, horses, butter, honey, cloth, wine, wood, leather, wax, and fish, chiefly pilchards. About 6 m. from Auray is the isolated chapel of Sainte Anne, a celebrated place of pilgrim age, to which about 6000 devotees annually repair from all parts of Brittany, in the month of July. Pop. 3755. AURE (VAL D ), one of the four valleys of Upper Ar- magnac, dep. Hautes-Pyre nees, France. This picturesque valley runs up into the Pyrenees, between the Val de Campan and the Val de Luchon, at the junction of the Nestes or tor rents of Louron and Aure. It is fertile, and well cultivated, abounding in pasturages ; and throughout, but especially in the upper part, presents scenery of surpassing beauty. AURE, two rivers, France: 1, Dep. Calvados, affluent of the Drome ; total course, N.N. W., 20 m. 2, Dep. Eure- et-Loire, affluent of the Eure from the left, course E.N.E., 32m. AURICH, a tn. Hanover, cap. gov. and circle of same name, and of the former principality of E. Friesland ; on the river, and 15 m. N.E. Emden, with which it is connected by a canal. It is walled, neatly built in the Dutch style, with a handsome market-place, near which stands the townhouse ; and is the seat of the provincial courts of justice and record, and also of a Protestant consistory. It contains three churches, a synagogue, grammar-school, gymnasium, four public libra ries, a poorhouse, an orphan hospital, a female accoucheur seminary, several sawmills, tanneries, and distilleries, with manufactures of paper, tobacco pipes, and tobacco. Aurich has gained much by the opening of the canal. It has a con siderable trade in cattle, and its horse-markets are well fre quented. Pop. 4250. The GOVERNMENT of Aurich is a low, flat tract of country, comprising about 1 1 34 geo. sq. m. ; bounded, W. by Holland and the Bay of Dollart, N. by the N. Sea, E. by Oldenburg, and S. by the territory of Meppen. It is protected from inundation by artificial dikes, 24 ft. high, and extending nearly 100 m. On the coast of the N. Sea it is tolerably fertile, but in general it is a mere waste, con sisting of barren moors and heaths, separated by tracts of sand. The inhabitants, who are mostly Protestants, employ themselves, in the more fertile districts, in agricultural pur suits, and in rearing cattle ; in the less favoured parts, their chief occupation is herring-fishing, and commercial naviga tion. Pop. 152,400. AURILLAC [anc. Aureliacum], a tn. France, cap. dep. Cantal (Auvergne) ; 269 m. S. Paris. It is agreeably situated in a valley, r. bank, Jourdanne ; is well built, and walled. The houses are covered with slates, obtained from quarries in the vicinity; and the streets, though irregular, are wide and clean, being constantly irrigated by the overflowings of a large re servoir at the top of the town, into which two fountains pour their copious supplies. At the lower part of the town, along the side of the river, is the public walk called Cmirs- Montyon, or commonly Le Cfravier, at one end of which is an elegant bridge of three arches, over the Jourdanne ; and at the other a beautiful fountain, surmounted by a column. Among the ancient buildings of Aurillac may be mentioned the castle of St. Stephen, which on the W. overhangs the town; the church of St. Gerand ; that of Notre Dame, of the 1 3th century, with a much-admired ceiling; and the college, an extensive pile of buildings, with a fine pavilion front, and containing a valuable library, and cabinet of mineralogy. Among modern buildings, the first place is due to the town- house, adorned with busts of 1 2 of the principal writers of France ; the prefecture, the theatre, the corn exchange, at the extremity of a square, which contains a fine basin of serpen tine, about 10 ft. in diameter ; the hospital, the lunatic asylum, and the extensive market-place. Aurillac possesses a stud of excellent horses, and a race-course, which, during the races, attracts numerous visitors from all the S. depart ments of France. Principal manufactures: kettles and other utensils of copper, jewellery, woollen stuffs, carpets, blondes, lace, and paper. Tanning, brewing, and dyeing are likewise carried on, and a good trade in horses, mules, cattle, cheese, stockings, tapestry, leather, and wool. Pop. 8484. AURIOL [Latin, Auriolum], a. tn. France, dep. Bouches- du-Rhone, 15 m. E.N.E. Marseilles, in a valley watered by the Huveaune, on the banks of which are many agreeable promenades. The town is irregularly built ; but the houses, among which the Hotel de Ville is conspicuous, have an ele gant appearance. Manufactures: cloths, soda, bricks and red tiles, for flooring. It has also mills for spinning worsted and silk, distilleries, paper-mills, copper-works, and limekilns. In the vicinity are collieries, beds of gypsum and red ochre, and quarries of alabaster. Pop. 2971. AURORA. 1, One of the Society Islands, S. Pacific; lat. (N. end) 15 50 S.; Ion. 148 11 W. (R.) It rises abruptly from the sea, presenting, on all sides but the S., a perpendicular cliff worn into caverns. Its summit is crowned with trees and a luxuriant vegetation ; including the cocoa- nut and bread-fruit trees. In the upper and interior part of the island, the soil is extremely rich, yielding great abundance of taro, sweet potatoes, melons, yams, and some tobacco. Pigs and poultry also abound ; as do crabs and fish. Aurora presents unequivocal marks of having been uplifted from the sea, which is of great depths ; within 150 ft. of its cliffs, Commander Wilkes having found no bottom with 150 fathoms of line. Its inhabitants are represented, by the navigator just named, as a cheerful, amiable, happy, fine-looking race. Many of the natives can read and write well, and printed copies of several portions of the Scriptures are to be found amongst them. Pop. about 350. 2, One of the New He- AURUNGABAD 256 AUSSIG brides, S. Pacific; lat. (N. point) 1456 S.; Ion. 1G8 6 E. (R.), about 22 in. long and 4 broad; discovered by Bou gainville in 1768. It rises to a considerable elevation; is covered with a luxuriant vegetation ; and has some beautiful cascades and coasts of easy access. It produces bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, plantains, yams, and sugar-canes. The islanders are of a dark colour, go nearly naked, but are of a mild and peaceful disposition. 3, An isl. lied Sea, betwixt Dhoba and Hassane Island ; lat. 25 30 N. ; Ion. 36 20 E. AURUNGABAU [sometimes called Ahmcdnuggur], a large prov. Deccan, or W. Ilindoostan; bounded, N. by Goojerat, Candeish, and Berar ; E. by Berar and Hyderabad ; S. by Beeder and Bejapoor ; and W. by the Arabian Sea. Length, 300 m. ; average breadth, 160 m. The greater por tion of the province is an elevated table-land, of an average height of 1800 ft. above the level of the sea. It is hilly and irregular, especially towards the W., where the Ghauts, cross ing it from S. to N., attain a great elevation. In many places singularly shaped, rocky, isolated hills arise ; affording ad mirable situations for the natives forts or fastnesses. Of these, the most remarkable is that on which the fortress of Dowlatabad is built. Though the province has no consider able rivers, the soil is fertile, and the climate favourable to the production of various fruits. Eice is the principal crop and staple commodity ; but the peach, strawberry, grape, nec tarine, fig, melon, and orange, are cultivated, and arrive at great perfection. Horses, hardy, but neither strong nor handsome, were formerly reared in great numbers for the Mahratta cavalry. Neither agriculture nor commerce are in a flourishing condition. The inhabitants are chiefly Hindoos ; about one-twentieth being Mahometans. The Mahratta lan guage is that generally spoken ; but the Hindoostanee and Persian are used among the higher classes. Various archi tectural peculiarities distinguish the religious edifices from those usually found in upper Hindoostan. Since 1818, the greater part of the province has been subject to Britain. The pop. is scattered, and small in proportion to the extent of the country. (Hamilton s East India Gaz.; Picture of India.} AURUNGABAD, a city, Hindoostan, cap. of above prov., 180 m. E.N.E. Bombay ; lat. 19 54 N. ; Ion. 75 33 E. ; in a hollow, in the immediate neighbourhood of an extensive marsh, and of a large tank overgrown with rank aquatic vege tation ; both of which, in conjunction with a very variable climate, render the locality unfavourable to health. It is separ ated from its principal suburb by the Kowlah, across which there are two substantial bridges. When approached from the N., the view of Aurungabad is imposing ; its large white domes with gilded points, and its lofty minarets, appearing to rise from amidst beautiful groves ; the whole city, with its terraced houses, covering a space of about 7 m. in circum- ATJRt NGZEBE .S DAUGHTER. AURUNGABAI). i Cap:. Meadow* Tajlor. Sketches in the Deccan. ference. It is surrounded by a stone wall with round towers, I but is incapable of withstanding a regular assault. The streets are broad, some of them paved, and there are many large and good houses ; but signs of rapid decay are every where visible. The principal street is about 2 m. long; hav ing at one end a spacious quadrangle, and near it a handsome modern bazaar. The mosques, caravanseries, and other pub lie buildings, are of good and substantial construction, but, in point of architectural beauty, much inferior to those of Delhi and Agra. One of the most important edifices, and also in the best state of preservation, is the tomb or mauso leum, by Aurungzebe, to the memory of his daughter. Its domes are of white marble, and clustered like those of the Taje Mahal, but inferior in size, fulness, and splendour. Originally a small village, Aurungabad, in 1634, became the seat of the Mogul Government, and was afterwards a favourite residence of Aurungzebe, from whom it received its present name, signifying the place of the throne. When the Nizams became independent of Mogul authority, it con tinued their capital till the invasions of the Mahrattas forced them to remove to Hyderabad. It is now the residence of a British political agent, and the head quarters of a battalion of the Nizam s army under British officers. Pop. (1823), 60,000. (Hamilton s East India Gaz. ) AUSEJO, a tn. Spain, Old Castile, prov. of, and 23 in. S.E. Logrono, on the side of a steep hill. The parish church, townhall, a small castle, an insecure prison, and a group of well-built mercantile and dwelling-houses, form the main body of the town. Manufactures: coarse linen and oil. Pop. 2050. AUSPITZ [locally named Hustopec], a tn. Austria, prov. Moravia, 20 m. S.S.E. Briinn. It has a church with an ancient altar, a market-place, an hospital, and an almshouse. A considerable number of the inhabitants are weavers. The vicinity produces fruit and wine, and an active trade is carried on in grain and cattle. Pop. 3000. AUSSA, a tn. Abyssinia, kingdom, Aciel, 1. bank, Ha wash, near its confluence with the lake of the same name, about lat. 11 30 N.; Ion. 41 40 E. It was formerly capital of Adel, and long regarded as their principal seat of learning. The irruptions of hostile tribes put an end to its prosperity and independence, and it is now little else than one of the great encampments of the Dankali, and other tribes, where a perpetual fair or market is held, to which large quantities of salt from Lake Assal are brought for sale ; and blue calico is in high demand for the caps worn by the married Bedouin females ; zinc, pewter, and brass, or copper wire, are bartered for the produce of the soil. It has, however, still a population of from 5000 to 6000. The inhabitants are of a tawny com plexion, with long hair. The LAKE of Aussa is a short distance N.E. the town. It is about 14 m. in length, 7 in breadth, and, according to D He ricourt, is upwards of 260 ft. deep. It overflows during the rainy season, and, when it recedes, leaves a fine deposit, like that left by the Nile. (Harris s Highlands of Ethiopia, vol. i. p. 182; Journals of Messrs Isenberg and Krapf; D He- ricourt, Voy. dans Choa.} AUSSEE, two towns, Austria:!, In prov. Styria, in a mountainous district on the Traun, 2200 ft. above the sea, 53 m. S.S.W. Linz; lat. 47 37 N. ; Ion. 13 47 E. It has manufactures of nails and ironware, and in its neighbourhood are found marble, alabaster, gypsum, pit-coal, salt, and sulphate of soda. It is particularly noted for the extensive and valuable salt mine in its neighbourhood, the produce of which is obtained partly in the form of rock-salt, and partly in the form of brine. The mine is divided into 1 1 stories or apartments for the reception of the brine, which is obtained by the admission of streams of water, and is conveyed in wooden pipes to Aussee, 4 m. distant. The annual pro duce is about 8270 tons. Pop. 1200. 2, In Moravia, circle of, and 20 m. N.N.W. Olmiitz. It is a place of great antiquity, with a church and a synagogue ; and in the neighbourhood a palace of the Prince of Lichtenstein, a splendid edifice, with a fine park. Pop., of which 739 are Jews, 2000. AUSSIG, a vil. Austria, circle, Leitmeritz, in Bohemia, near the junction of the Bila with the Elbe, 42 m. N.N.W. Prague. It lies in the midst of gardens and vineyards, which produce a wine of some celebrity called podskaler. During AUSTELL (ST.) 257 AUSTRALIA the Hussite struggle, it acquired considerable notoriety ; and its old Gothic church, with a stone pulpit, a bust of John Huss, and a little Madonna, by the celebrated Raphael Mengs, who was born here, is an object of attraction to the antiquary. Pop. 1759. AUSTELL (ST.), a market tn. and par. England, co. Cornwall. The TOWN is 13 m. N.N E. Truro, and 30 W. Plymouth, beautifully situated on the declivity of a hill. It consists of one principal street, and several smaller, branching from it irregularly, all tolerably straight, paved, well kept, and lighted with gas. The houses are chiefly stone, and in general substantially built ; and the town is well supplied with water. The places of worship are the parish church, adorned with a handsome tower, two district churches, and chapels belonging to the Wesleyans, Baptists, O Bricnites, Society of Friends, &c. Other buildings of note are the new market- house and townhall in one edifice, and the union poorhouse. The schools comprise a gentleman s boarding and day school for classics, mathematics, engineering, &c., a large national school, two or three minor commercial schools, several ladies schools, two boarding schools, and two or three dame schools. Coarse woollen cloth is manufactured here to a small extent. There are also two steam-engine manufactories, an iron-foundry in the town, and another at Charleston, 1 in. distant. A large trade is done in china clay, and stone, exported from the ports of Charleston and Pentewan, for the supply of the Stafford shire potteries, and foreign countries. In the vicinity are a number of extensive and productive tin and copper mines. About 2 m. N.W. the town, there is a remarkable ancient tin mine, called Carclaze mine, a Cornish name, signifying a gray rock ; it is a vast excavation, about 1 m. in circuit, and 22 fathoms in perpendicular depth. No record exists of the period when it was first opened, but, according to tradition, it was worked more than 400 years ago. Market-day for corn and provisions, Friday. Several annual fairs. The PARISH comprises 11,540 ac., of which 3121 are common or waste. Pop. of par. and tn. (1841), 10,320; (1851), 10,750. (Correspondent in St. Austcll.) AUSTERLITZ. 1, A small tn. Austria [locally named Slawkow], prov. Moravia, on the river Littawa, 12 m. E. Briinn. It has a handsome church, with sculptures, and a palace with a library and good pictures, some of them by Titian and Rubens. It has also some manufactures, but the most remarkable circumstance connected with this town is the great battle of the same name, fought about 2 m. W. on December 2, 1805, and in which Napoleon gained a decisive victory over the united forces of Austria and Russia. This battle was followed by the peace of Presburg, signed on the 26th of the same month. Pop. 2600, of whom 450 are Jews. 2, A hamlet, Holland, prov. of, and 7 m. E. Utrecht, so named by the French, after the victory referred to in the preceding article. General Marmont built here, in honour of Napoleon, a pyramid of earth and turf, which still exists. Pop. 220. AUSTIN, a city, U. States, cap. Texas, on the Rio Colorado, 37 m. above Bastrop, and 140 N.E. San Antonio. It was named after Moses Austin, the first projector of the colonization of Texas. In April 1839, three years after Texas had achieved its independence, Austin was selected as the permanent seat of government for the new state. In April 1840, Austin contained 400 houses and 1200 inhabitants, and since then the population has considerably increased. It is an incorporated town, according to the municipal system of the U. States. The public buildings are not elegant, but are well suited to their various purposes. Conspicuous among them is the president s house, situated upon a hill, and com manding an extensive and beautiful prospect. A Presbyterian church and a Methodist meeting-house have also been erected. In the spring of 1840, two newspapers were published in the capital of Texas; which, like ancient Rome, is built upon seven hills, in a most picturesque and delightful situation. The streets are generally composed of gravel. Agate and cornelian, of the finest quality, are found in great abundance about the city and neighbourhood. The Colorado Hills, about 4 m. off, contain extensive quarries of marble, limestone, and granite ; and will for many years supply the adjoining country with timber. Pop. of town, exceeding 2500 ; of the muni cipality, 6186. (Bonnell s Topography of Texas; Kennedy s Texas.) VOL. I. AUSTIN (SAN FELIPE DE), a post tn., U. States, Texas, cap. Austin co., a place of some trade, on the Brazos river, 125 m. E.N.E. San Antonio de Bexar, and founded July 17. 1824. AUSTRALASIA, a division of the globe of somewhat indefinite limits, but usually esteemed to comprehend the con tinental island of Australia, and an unascertained number of others, many of them very little known, lying between Ion. I 110 and 180 E., and from Papua or New Guinea, the fur- | thest N. island of the division, to lat. 50 S. It includes thus the islands of Australia, Van Diemen s Land, New Zealand, New Caledonia, the New Hebrides, the Mallicollo Islands, Queen Charlotte s Islands, the Solomon Islands, New Ireland, New Britain, the Admiralty Islands, Papua, and the Arru Islands, besides numerous other islands and island groups. The island of Timor, and those lying W. of it, though com ing within the general boundary above indicated, belong to the E. or Indian Archipelago, called also Malasia. Austral asia is estimated to have an area of 6,096,000 geo. sq. m., and a pop. of 2,400,000. It forms one of three portions into which some geographers have divided Oceania, the other two being Malasia and Polynesia, arid corresponds with the Mela nesia of other geographers, who have divided Oceania into Malasia, or W. Oceania; Micronesia, or N. Oceania; Poly nesia, or E. Oceania ; and Melanesia, or S. Oceania. AUSTRALIA, or NEW HOLLAND, the largest isl. in the world, or rather a sea-girt continent, lying between the Indian and Pacific Oceans, S. of Asia; between lat. 10 39 and 39 11 S. ; and extending from Ion. 113 5 to 153 16 E. ; bounded, N. by Torres Strait, the Sea of Timor, and the islands of Papua, Timor, Flores, &c. ; E. by the S. Pacific ; S. by Bass s Strait, Van Diemen s Land, and the S. Pacific ; and W. by the Indian Ocean. It greatest length, W. to E., is 2400 m. ; its greatest breadth, N. to S., 1700 to 1900 m. Coast line, 8000 in. ; area, 3,000,000 sq. m. It is divided into two unequal parts by the tropic of Capricorn, and has, consequently, both a temperate and a tropical climate. Al though there are numerous spacious harbours on the coasts of Australia, there are few remarkable indentations ; the prin cipal are the Gulf of Carpentaria, on the N., and Spencer s ; Gulf, on the S. ; the former extending inland 650 m., with a breadth of 400 ; the latter extending 180 m. inland, and vary- ing in breadth from 80 to 10 m. On the "W. is Shark s Bay, and on the E. Harvey s Bay, neither exceeding 40 to 50 m. in length and width. A ridge of steep, but not lofty, rnouu- tains runs along a great portion of the E. coast, at a distance from the sea varying from 30 to 90 m. ; while the S. coast, from Cape Leuwin to Spencer s Gulf, presents a low and sandy surface. The N. and W. coasts, so far as they have been yet explored, are also generally low, with some moderate eleva tions at intervals. The interior is also believed to consist of an immense plain, the hilly districts rising from it like islands. The geology of Australia is remarkable for its simplicity and uniformity. The strike of the rocks and the direction of the principal chain of hills is, with one exception, the same throughout the country, namely N. and S. Tertiary rocks I prevail on its S., N., and W. coasts, expanding in the S.E. into a vast tertiary plain, traversed by the Murray and Dar ling rivers. Other two immense tertiary plateaux occur on the S. and the N. coasts ; the former lining the great Australian Bight, and the latter the Gulf of Carpentaria, and both spread ing horizontally for unknown distances into the interior. On the E. coast, palaeozoic rocks, basalt, and granite occur in alternate patches along the whole coast from Bass s Strait to Cape Flattery, in lat. 15 S. ; the last constituting the entire floor of the W. portion of New S. Wales, and extending far into the interior of the continent. Colonies have been formed by the British at four different points of this great insulated continent, but none of these have I been yet pushed further inland than from 150 to 200 m., so I that the interior of this vast country may still be considered ; a terra incognita. Some individual adventurers have indeed penetrated a considerable way into the interior, but their accounts contain little to tempt followers. Captain Sturt, one j of the most recent explorators of the wilds and wastes of the interior regions of Australia, and who, in 1845, penetrated from Adelaide as far as lat. 25 33 S., and Ion 138 E., describes i the country he traversed as consisting of alternate sand-hills ! and flats, with no trace of vegetation as far as the eye could 33 AUSTRALIA 958 AUSTRALIA reach. Tossing the level country, he says, we once more found ourselves among sand-ridges, perfectly insurmountable, and so close that the base of one touched the base of another ; the whole country sand. The sand-hills are of a fiery red, and ran, for miles and miles, in parallel rows, with points like the vanishing points of an avenue. I was at length brought up by a stony desert, that stretched before us in absolute bound lessness. All accounts agree in ascribing this Sterile and repulsive character to the interior of the country ; nor is it much better on many parts of the coast, especially on the S., W., N., and N.W. Captain Stokes, who surveyed these shores in 183743, makes frequent remarks in his narrative on the flatness and sterility of the land. It would appear, indeed, that the best portions of Australia have been already located; these being chiefly confined, so far as known, to the S. and E. portions of the island, where there are large tracts of good land, available for the purposes of both the farmer and grazier. Here also the finest scenery is to be met with, composed of picturesque combinations of wood and water, rocky height and deep ravine, such as is rarely to be met with in any other part of the country. Mountains. The highest and most extensive mountain- system yet seen in Australia takes its rise at Cape Wilson, the most S. point of that continent, and runs in a N. direction through New S. Wales. These mountains, called by the na tives the Warragongs, but by the settlers the Australian Alps, comprise three subdivisions the Liverpool range; the Blue Mountains, commencing about 37 m. W. Sydney; and a third, stretching beyond the parallel of 32, which has not yet re ceived any name. The Blue Mountains, so called from their assuming a beautiful blue colour when viewed from a distance, present some very striking scenery. The heights of the pre cipices, and depths of the chasms and ravines are tremendous. 1 It appears, says a writer in the Saturday Magazine, as if the earth, from the force of waters, or some violent convulsion, had all around subsided, or been washed away, leaving im- men.-e hollows and gulfs, and exposing to view, to the depth of 2000 ft., the very ribs of the mountains. Dwarf trees, and a scrubby underwood, which retain their verdancy, through out the year, cover a great portion of these heights; the re mainder consists of naked rock, destitute of all semblance of vegetation, and presenting a singularly dreary and inhospit able appearance. Though formidable from their character, the Blue Mountains do not attain any great height ; the highest peak, Mount York, being no more than 3292 ft. The Liver pool range presents general features and characteristics similar to those of the Blue Mountains, though not quite so imposing. The highest peaks of this range have been variously estimated at from 4700 to 7000 ft. It presents, however, a number of points besides, from 2000 to 4000 ft. The precipices and chasms are tremendous here also. Narrow, gloomy, and profound, says Count Strzelecki, these stupendous rents in the bosom of the earth are enclosed between gigantic walls of rock, sometimes receding from, sometimes frightfully over hanging the dark bed of the ravine, and its black silent eddies, or its foaming torrents of water. Many of the highest sum mits of the Warragongs, or Australian Alps, are covered with perpetual snow, and, though no measurements have been taken of them, are believed, from this circumstance, to reach a much greater height than any of those above named. One of the most remarkable elevations yet ascended by Europeans is Mount Kosciuszko, which rises to a height of 6500 ft., and commands a view extending over 7000 sq. m., while immediately beneath the spectator yawns a gulf of 3000 ft. perpendicular depth. This range is continued N. by a series of low, but imperfectly known heights, to Cape York, on Torres Strait, thus forming a connected chain, at no great distance from the E. coast, the whole length of the island, from its most S. to its most N. point. Another range, commencing near the S. coast at Port land Bay, in lat. 36 52 S., Ion. 142 25 E., after taking a N. course for some time, connects with the Australian Alps by a series of grassy hills. The first have been named by their dis coverer, Major Mitchell, the Australian Grampians; and the Jatter, by the same authority, the Australian Pyrenees. In S. Australia occurs another mountain-chain, running N. from Cape Jervis to the singular horse-shoe depression of Lake Torrens. Many of the mountains of Australia exhibit evidences of their being extinct volcanoes. Of these, the most remarkable are Mount Gambier and Mount Lehank, between the W. bank of the Glenelg and Uiveli Bay. Mount Lehank has five craters, each about three-fourths of a mile in diameter, and all filled with water. So far as is known, however, there is no volcano in that country now in active operation, if a bituminous burn- 1 ing hill be excepted, belonging to a range called Wingcn, which | exhibits a red heat at the depth of about four fathoms, but has no crater, and discharges no lava. The following are* the j elevations of a few of the highest known mountains of Aus- ! tralia; they all occur in New S. Wales Mount Koscinsko, 6500 ft.; Mount Sea View, 6000 ft.: Mount Lindesay, 5700 ft.; Mount Dargal, 5490ft.; Mount Canoblas, 4610 ft.; Mount Mitchell, 4120 ft. ; Mount Pinnabar, 4100 ft. ; Mount Bathurst, 4000 ft. fiiccrs and Laics. A scarcity of fresh water, whether in the form of rivers or lakes, is one of the prevailing character- ] istics of Australia. Along a coast line of not less than 8000 m., few rivers of any considerable magnitude discharge themselves into the sea, most of them being absorbed before they reach it ; | while on the S. coast there is not a single water-course to be found from Port Lincoln to King George s Sound, a distance of more than 1500 in. Want of water forms not only one of the chief complaints of all the travellers who have sought to pene trate into the interior of the country, but has, in several in stances, been the cause of their abandoning their enterprise. Lakes are not scarce, but they are nearly all salt, as are also many of the rivers and springs. Long droughts, which dry up the channels of streams and jirrest vegetation, and sudden ! and violent rains, which cause them to overflow their banks I and inundate the surrounding country, are calamities to which j the agriculturists of Australia are much exposed. The floods, in particular, are extremely formidable and destructive, rush- ! big down with an impetuosity which nothing can resist, and carrying off at one sweep the entire produce of the harvest. A still more remarkable characteristic of the rivers of Aus- tralia is, the circumstance of many of them terminating in marshes situated in the interior of the country, thus reversing the order observed in most other lands, by flowing inwards instead of towards the sea. filters. Amongst the principal known rivers of Australia, exclusive of those more recently discovered, and to be after wards mentioned, are the Hawkesbury lliver, the Richmond River, Hunter s River, the Murrumbidgee, Murray, Lachlan, Macquarrie, and Darling. The Hawkesbury River rises in the Blue Mountains, and falls into the sea at Broken Bay, 30 m. N. of Port Jackson. The Richmond River falls into the sea between 50 and 00 m. S. of Moreton Bay, and is navi gable for small vessels about 70 m. from its mouth. Hunter s river also has its rise in the Blue Mountains, and is navigable for small craft of 30 or 40 tons burden, for 50 m. from New castle, into the harbour of which it discharges itself. The Murrumbidgee has its origin in a range of mountains about 200 m. S.W. Sydney, in the parallel of 35 S., and under the meridian of 149 E. It is subsequently joined by the Lachlan and Murray, and ultimately enters the sea through the large marsh, or shallow brackish lake, called Alexan- drina or Victoria Lake, and the lagoon named Coorong. These large rivers are thus rendered useless as a means of communication from the sea to the interior. The origin of the Murray is unknown, but it is supposed to be formed by the junction of two small streams, called the Hume and the Ovens, which have their rise in the Warragong Mountains. The Lachlan has its origin in the Cullarin range of mountains, in county Argyle, New S. Wales. The Macquarrie is formed by the junction of the Fish and Campbell Rivers. This river also takes an inland course, and is finally lost in one of those vast internal marshes which form a feature of internal Aus tralia. The Darling is supposed to be formed by the junction of numerous streams in the interior, to the W. of Moreton Bay. Its waters are perfectly salt, and the banks incrusted wiih the same substance. It falls into the Murray River ] 30 m. E N.E. Adelaide. Besides the rivers described, there are, of lesser note, the Glenelg, Manning, Hastings, Clarence, and Brisbane. The scenery along the latter stream is said, by Mr. Oxley, to be very beautiful, and the adjoining country well adapted for cultivation or grazing. The recent discover- l ies of Capt. Stokes have added live new rivers to those pre viously known, the Fitz-Roy, Victoria, Adelaide, Flinders, I and Albert, all situated on the N. and N.W. coasts. The two | 1 last fall into the Gulf of Carpentaria, within 50 m. of each | AUSTRALIA 259 AUSTRALIA other. The scenery on the banks of the Albert is described by Capt. Stokes in the most glowing terms, lie ascended the river to the distance of 10 m., and found it to be from 12 to 15 ft. in depth, with a breadth of about 200 yards. Some of the reaches, particularly that called Hope Beach, was found to present one of the most beautiful specimens conceivable of river scenery. Lakes. The lakes possess no characteristics of any inter est, indeed hardly deserve the name, the larger of them being, duration, and rarely take the mariner by surprise, giving ample warning of their approach by the gathering of heavy clouds and much lightning. On the N. coast, the E. and W. monsoons blow with great regularity ; the E. monsoon setting in generally about the beginning of April, and the W. in October. As might be expected, the temperature of Australia is various, being affected both by geographical petition and local circumstances. In New S. Wales the average tempera ture of spring is 65 5 ; of summer, 72 ; of autumn, 66 ; and in general, rather marshes than lakes, depending for their of winter, 55. On the N.W. coast, again, Capt. Stokes supplies of water on the rivers that flow into them, instead j found the thermometer standing in the month of January of being themselves the sources of rivers ; the consequence I at 98 in the shade on shore, and fluctuating during the day is, that they arc often so dried up by absorption and exhala- j between 98 and 94. Capt. Wickham found the average tion, as to present the appearance of vast reedy swamps; and range of the thermometer on this coast, between the N.W. even when filled with water, more resemble submerged flats j cape and the meridian of 120 E., during the months of May, than lakes, with low muddy shores, so soft,; nd of such extent, June, July, and August, to be, on board ship, 75 in the as to render the water unapproachable. Small lakes are nu- middle of the day, and 60 at night. merous in all the level portions of Australia, but they are all I Mineralogy. Granite, sandstone, limestone, coal, slate, ,ny of the largest, their muddy banks being ! potters clay, and sand eminently adapted for glass-making, salt, as are also many of the la incrusted with the same substance. An opinion at one time prevailed, and still prevails, though not now so general, that there was a vast lake in the interior of Australia a theory apparently adopted to account for the inward flow of so many large rivers, which were supposed to discharge their waters into this inland sea. Of this opinion, for one, is Capt. Sturt. The idea was supported by the evidence of the natives in the vicinity of Swan Iviver, who asserted that there was such a lake ; and, to give a notion of its magnitude, said that if a boy commenced walking round it, he would be an old man before his task was completed. There se now good reason to believe, that this accourt either refers to one of the marshes illuded to, or is otherwise a gross exaggeration, and that the occur abundantly. Beautiful marbles, suitable for statuary and other ornamental purposes, have also been found in New S. Wales. Copper, tin, and lead likewise abound ; but all these metals have been thrown into the shade by the discovery, in 1851, in New S. Wales, and in 1852 in Victoria, of numerous rich and extensive deposits of gold, eclipsing in productive ness even the previously unrivalled gold regions of California. Vegetation. There is much yet to learn regarding the vegetation of Australia, our knowledge of it being almost entirely confined to its coasts and maritime districts. The verdure being perpetual, the forests never exhibit either the varied tints of autumn nor the soft freshness of spring, but wear continually a dull, monotonous hue of olive-green. The rivers which take an inland course diffuse themselves, as flowers, too, are generally without perfume, though there are already mentioned, over vast flats, and finally disappear by being partly exhaled and partly absorbed by the sandy soil. Capt. Stokes is of opinion that the centre of Australia is a vast everal odoriferous plants that scent the air to a great distance ; but many of the former are beautifully formed, and exquisitely tinted, although but short-lived. The forests of Australia desert, into which all the waters that flow inland are poured, j are often found differing considerably from each other in their converting it, after heavy falls of rain, into an immense morass general features and characteristics, and in the prevailing de- or lake, which eventually discharges its surplus waters slowly scription of tree of which they are composed ; some of them into the Gulf of Carpentaria. The largest of these swamps exhibiting an agreeable variety of scenery, but most of them or lakes yet discovered, are those of Alexandrina or Victoria, \ having a gloomy and melancholy appearance, and being difii- Dambeling, and Torrens. The first, as already mentioned, traversed by the Murray. The Dambeling was discovered in 1843 by Messrs. Lander and Lefroy. It is 15 m. long by 7J broad, and is quite salt. It is situated 100 m. S.S.E. Bever- ley, in W. Australia, and is supposed to be the lake of which I the natives in that part of the country speak in such hyper- bolical terms. Torrens lies inland from the head of Spencer s Gulf, in S. Australia. It is of a horse-shoe form, and is said by Mr. Eyre to be 400 m. in length, with an average breadth of 15 to 20 m., but its real extent has not yet been determined. The shores, according to the same authority, are composed of soft mud and sand, in many places coated over with an in crustation of salt, which glitters brilliantly in the sun. In the dry season, Torrens is merely a salt marsh. Climate. The climate of Australia, so far as regards the localities touched at, or occupied by Europeans, is, with some exceptions, extremely healthy. That of New S. Wales is particularly so, being perhaps the most salubrious on the face of the globe. The climate may be considered generally as very dry, particularly S. of the tropic of Capricorn, where the amount of moisture is about equal to that of S. Africa, and the S. parts of S. America ; which places it resembles, also, in its mean annual temperature. But here, years of uninterrupted drought frequently occur. N. of this tropic, considerably more rain falls ; while at the N. extremities of the island, including Cape York Peninsula and Arnhem s Land, the quantity is equal to that which falls in Ireland and the S. parts of England. It is, cult to penetrate, owing to the quantity of scrubby underwood with which they arc choked up. Amid the apparent sameness of the forest, says Count Strzelecki, may be often found spots teeming with a gigantic and luxuriant vegetation, sometimes laid out in stately groves, free from thicket or underwood, sometimes opening on glades and slopes, intersected with rivulets, carpeted with the softest turf, and which lack only the thatched and gabled cottage, with its blue smoke curling amongst the trees, to realize a purely European picture. Sometimes, again, the forest skirts an open country of hill and plain, gracefully sprinkled with isolated clumps of trees, covered with the richest tufted herbage, and enamelled with flowers of varied form and colour ; or it is lost in immense thickets, where innumerable flowering shrubs, and elegant interwoven creepers, form Lowers as impenetrable and as picturesque as those seen in the forests of Brazil. In New S. Wales, many of the forests take their names from the predominating trees, such as Stringy-Bark Forest, Iron- Bark Eorest, &c. ; the former, a gloomy- looking tree, impart ing to the woods a dreary and sombre character. Acacias are extremely common, up wards of two hundred kinds having been found, all of them possessing a family resemblance, which dis tinguishes them from the acacias of the Old and the New World. The Proteas and Banksias are almost peculiar to New Holland, and the Eucalyptus, Casuarina, and Norfolk Island pine are remarkable for their beauty, and afibrd valu able timber. The barks of several trees abound in tanning however, extremely irregular, and, though heavy, lasts only matter, and large quantities have been sent to Britain as for a few hours daily. On the W. coast of Australia, S. winds a substitute for oak bark. Several of the acacias afford a prevail from October to the beginning of April, the commence ment of the Australian winter, which is opposed to our summer ; June, July, and August being their winter months. In April, the S. winds are interrupted by violent gales from the N. and W., accompanied by heavy rain. On the N. W. coast the winds are more various, but the W. seems to prevail, especially during the months of September, October, November, and December. This coast is exposed also to heavy squalls be tween E.S.E. and N.E. They are, however, generally of short gum resembling gum-arabic. One of the most imposing trees of the Australian forest is the Eucalyptiis yloluhis, called by the settlers the gum-tree, which often attains a height of 150 ft., with a girth at the of from 25 to 40 ft. Most of the trees of this species shed their bark an nually; the process is curious. When the season arrives, the old bark bursts, splits, and falls off, or is blown off by the wind as it hangs dangling in the air, and the renovated tree stands forth shining, stem and branches, in a new bark of a AUSTRALIA 2 GO AUSTRALIA beautiful silvery hue. Nearly all the Eucalypti are called gum-trees, although one species only yields a pure gum, the exudations of some of the others being merely resins. Another species yields a substance which the colonists call manna ; it is of two kinds a pure white, and a pale yellow. It has the taste of a delicious sweetmeat, with an almond flavour; and is so luscious, that much cannot be eaten of it. This sub stance is much sought after by the natives, who sometimes scrape from the tree as much as a pound in a quarter of an hour. It appears, however, to be by no means very plentiful. From Eucalyptus G-unni the colonists obtain, by incisions in the bark, a cool, refreshing, slightly aperient liquid, which ferments and acquires the properties of beer. The most remarkable and most beautiful tree of the Australian forest is the fern-tree, which grows to the height of 15 or 20 ft., when it suddenly spreads out its enormous leaves, each 4 or 5 ft. in length, in every direction. These leaves differ none , iii appearance from those of the common fern, except in size. Intermingling with the other trees of the forest, is seen, at intervals, the tall slender stem of the palm-tree, rising to a height of 70 or 100 ft. Palms, however, are limited to the N. and E. shores, where vegetation assimilates more to that of India than to the prevailing character of that of Australia. The lilyworts constitute a marked feature of Australian vege tation ; among them are the Xanthoreas or grass-trees, with shrubby stems, somewhat resembling small palms. They bear tufts of long wiry foliage at their extremities, from the midst of which rise very long cylindrical spikes of densely compacted flowers like bulrushes, which furnish valuable fodder for all kinds of cattle ; the base of the inner leaves of some species may be used as food, and the inner portion of the top of the trunk is eaten by the aborigines raw and roasted. In the more favoured regions of Australia, grasses are abundant and nutri tious, presenting pasturages of great extent, and admirably adapted for the rearing of cattle. It is not a little remarkable, however, that notwithstanding the excellence of the climate, and the luxuriance of vegetation, Australia does not produce a single native edible fruit, if we except some insignificant berries, and a kind of chestnut lately discovered. But exotic fruits and vegetables are found to thrive well, and may now be had in New S. Wales in great abundance, and of excel lent quality. The fruits comprise all thoso of the tropics, as well as those of colder climates, and include oranges, lemons, figs, bananas, guavas, pine-apples, &c. Amongst the culinary vegetables are all those known in the gardens of Europe. \ Green pease are gathered in winter as well as summer, and the potato produces two crops in the year. Seed-time is from March to June; harvest in November and December. Every species of corn is cultivated with success in the settled districts. The vine, the olive, and mulberry, also thrive well. Tobacco, of good quality, is grown ; but being unable to compete with the American, in point of cheapness, some attempts to cultivate it on a large scale were attended with ruin to the speculators. The oat, in a wild state, was met with on the W. coast of Australia by Capt. Stokes, who therefore supposes it to be indigenous to that country. Zoology. Of the class Mammalia, three orders are entirely wanting in Australia the quadrumana, pachydcrmata, and ruminantia. There are thus none of the monkey tribe in that country ; no elephants, rhinoceroses, hippopotami, nor deer ; no native hoofed quadrupeds of any kind, nor any native rumin ating* animals, all of the latter now there being of foreign introduction. Neither are there any lions, tigers, bears, wolves, hyenas, or any other wild beasts of prey. The native animals of Australia are mostly inoffensive; few of them being dangerous to man, either from natural ferocity or from the possession of venomous qualities. Of the ten or eleven * An opinion is entertained in Australia that unknown animals, of mense size, inhabit the lar<:e water-hotel anil marshes of the inter. This opinion is confirmed by native authority, always, however, to be doubted in such cases. In one instance, a larjre animal, with two white deciduous tusks, and which made a tremendous noise is said to species of Carnivora that inhabit Australia, and its seas and rivers, one only is a land animal the wild dog. Another is the alligator ; the rest are marine mammals, belonging to the seal kind, and comprehending the sea-lion, sea-bear, &c. As a set-off against the above large deduction from its zoology, Australia possesses several animals peculiar to itself, and of singular physiological structure. It has more than 40 species of marsupials, of which scarcely any congeners occur elsewhere. The largest of these, as well as the largest native quadruped, is that remarkable herbiferous mammal, the kangaroo, attain ing at times the weight of 160 to 200 Ibs. Its flesh is held in high estimation by the settlers, particularly the tail, which grows to an enormous size. There are many varieties of this singular animal, some of them very small, but beautifully fui red; the smallest species is called the kangaroo rat; the largest are locally distinguished by the names of the forester, and the old man. It is said that the kangaroo is rapidly dis appearing before the advance of civilized man. Opossums, similar to those of America, are numerous, taking up their abodes in the hollows of decayed gum-trees. Capt. Stokes met with a beautiful specimen on the N. coast, which he describes as being about half the size of a full-grown rat ; its colour and fur resemble the chinchilla. Next to the animals described, wild dogs are the most frequently met with; their appearance is wolfish, ears erect, and colour a reddish-brown. They do not bark, but sometimes yelp, like the common dog. When hard pressed by hunger, they devour each other ; and, being very destructive to sheep, are eagerly hunted by the settlers. One of the most remarkable animals of this island is the ornithorhynchus, an aquatic, egg-laying mam mal, frequenting rivers and lakes, and their margins ; with the beak of a duck, and a fur-covered body, in shape resembling that of an otter ; length, from tip of beak to that of the tail, 13 inches. It swims well, and, indeed, seldom quits the wa ter, as it crawls with difficulty on land. The foot of the male is armed with a spur like a cock s, through which passes a poisonous liquor, rendering the animal dangerous. Besides these quadrupeds, there are porcupines of two kinds, flying foxes, flying opossums, and flying squirrels, wombats, sloths, the porcupine ant eater, &c. Australia now possesses a large stock of the domestic animals of Britain, which thrive there remarkably well. The breed of horses is excellent. Horned cattle, sheep, and swine, also prosper, the first attaining a great size; while the sheep improve in fleece, and their flesh in flavour. Neither goats, asses, nor mules are reared to any extent. The birds of Australia are numerous, and in great variety; and comprehend many beautiful, and some remarkable kinds. Eagles, some very large, measuring 9 ft. from wing to wing ; falcons, and various other species of hawks and owls, are nu merous ; and so also are parrots, perroquets, and cockatoos, many of them of the most beautiful plumage. Pigeons of various species, and the most delicate and varied hues, frequent sundry parts of the island. Vultures are entirely wanting, as are like wise the common domestic fowls, there being nearly a total absence of the gallinaceous birds. All the tribes of usual sing ing birds are also absent. The largest Australian bird is the emu or cassowary, excelled in size by the African ostrich alone, and attaining a height sometimes of more than 7 ft., 5 and 6 being the average. It is widely diffused over the S. parts of Australia, but is rapidly disappearing before the encroach ments of civilized man. Bustards are not uncommon, some of them attaining a weight of from 15 to 18 Ibs. A remark able bird was met with on the N. coast by Capt. Stokes. The large tumuli, says that intelligent navigator, noticed by Capt. King and others, and supposed to be raised by the inhabitants, are the works of a bird ; some of these tumuli are 30 ft. long, and about 5 ft. high. The edifice is erected by means of the feet, which are remarkable both for size and strength, and a peculiar power of grasping ; they are yellow, while the body is brown. Nothing can be more curious than to see them hopping towards these piles on one foot, the other being filled with materials for building. They resemble nary noises are alleged also to have been heard proceeding from some of their eggs in these mounds, where they are hatched by the the large and remote water-holes, Inch those who heard them believed j heat generated, in part, by decomposition, and from which animal*, oTa imee thought to be unMutiuct, is rappMed to glve^ausi! pendent of parental tendance. This bird is gallinaceous, and biUly to the above belief. 1 the name which has been given it is Meyapodius tumulus. AUSTRALIA 261 AUSTRALIA From the size of its nest, which is spoken of with astonish ment by Capt. Cook, it was presumed to be a bird of enormous bulk. Birds of Paradise abound in the N. parts of Australia, where they are shot by the natives with blunt arrows, in order to avoid injuring their elegant plumage ; they are then skinned and dried for sale. The most common birds belong to the honey-sucking family, and many of the warblers are unusally beautiful; the two most magnificent being the rifle , bird, and the ring oriole. The spotted grossbeak, a splendid j bird, and the menura lyra or lyre-bird, with its magnificent lyre-shaped tail, are natives of this land of extrordinary natural productions. Quails are numerous, and supply the place of partridges to the sportsmen of the antipodes. The gigantic crane may frequently be seen on the borders of the rivers, lakes, or swamps, which also abound in ducks, teals, and widgeons, affording many a savoury dish to the hard-wrought settler. Other aquatic birds are, the pelican, goose, and that rara avis of the Latin poets the black swan, a bird of the most stately form and graceful carriage, to be seen in great numbers on the lagoons of New S. Wales. The reptiles of Australia are pretty numerous, though only a few are dangerous. The most formidable is the alligator, which abounds in the N. They were seen in great numbers in the rivers Adelaide, Albert, and Victoria, discovered by Capt. Stokes. Serpents are numerous, and some of them extremely venomous. Those most commonly seen in New S. Wales are the diamond snake, the black, the gray, and the brown, the whip, and the yellow snakes. In the N. parts of Australia they are more numerous, of greater variety, and | of larger size. The diamond snake, the largest of those named, attains a length of from 10 to 15 ft., and girth of 13 to 15 inches ; it is not venomous, but, owing to the size of its fangs, its bite is dangerous. It is beautifully marked, and obtains its name from being covered with a series of diamond- shaped spots, of various brilliant colours. The black snake, which varies in length from 3 to 5 ft., is poisonous, as are also the gray, brown, and whip snakes ; but the most deadly is the yellow snake, the bite of which is almost instantly fatal. This reptile is also the ugliest of the tribe ; it has a | large flat head, a malignant eye, and emits a strong, offensive fetor. Lizards and frogs are also numerous in various parts. Scorpions, centipedes, and tarantulas do not exist in such num bers as to cause inconvenience or discomfort to the settler. The seas, rivers, and lagoons, abound in fish, of numerous varieties, and other aquatic animals, many of them peculiar. Bream, nearly as large as the sea-fish of the same name, are plentiful in the rivers ; and in the lagoons are caught enormous eels, some of them weighing 20 Ibs. Cod-fish are abundant on the coast, and of a large size, being not unfrequently caught of the weight of 50, 60, and even 90 Ibs. Whales and seals j frequent the coasts and coves. On the N. coasts are extensive fisheries of trepang, much visited by native traders from the Indian Archipelago. The seas are likewise frequented by j several species of sharks, and by sea-serpents of great size. Insects are numerous, and in some respects resemble those of Africa and Asia. Locusts are plentiful in some parts. Of bees there are three kinds, all destitute of stings. Ants are numerous, both in numbers and species, one kind being an inch long; and their hills attain a height of 13 ft., with a width, at the base, of 7 ft., gradually tapering to a point. Spiders are very large; and caterpillars, in some seasons, blight the finest crops. Aborigines. The Australian natives belong to the Papuan negro race, and are of a sooty brown or chocolate colour ; they are of rather less average height than Europeans, ranging from 5 ft. 4 inches to 5 ft. 7 inches, and frequently falling below the lowest of these measurements ; the head is small, the trunk slender, the arms and legs of a rounded and muscular form, and the whole figure, in general, very well proportioned, but frequently marred by the protuberance of the abdomen. The hair, which they wear very long, is jet black, and for the most part lank and coarse, though in some individuals it is soft and curling ; if attended to, it might be made ornamental to their persons, but, being utterly neglected, it becomes matted and greasy, the owners using it as a towel to wipe their hands with. The most remarkable feature, however, of the Austra lian savage is the eye, which is large, full, penetrating, and singularly eloquent, expressing the emotions and workings of i the mind with vivacity and energy. The women are not, in j general, so well formed as the men a circumstance attribut able in some measure to their being much employed in digging, and to the custom of carrying their children on their shoulders. Both parents are fond of their offspring, and treat them with the greatest indulgence. Some of the points alluded to are illustrated in the accompanying woodcuts, all representations B. AUSTRALIAN ABORIGINES. From An K a B . South Australia Illustrated. of S. Australians. No. 1 is a warrior of the Mount Barker tribe ; he is painted with narrow stripes of red ochre that reach quite round his body ; his shield is made of bark. No. 2 is a woman of the Parnkallah tribe, Port Lincoln, with her child on her shoulders, as mentioned above. The little one holds on by the hair of its mother s head. No. 3 is a boy amusing himself with a reed spear. In this figure, the singular protuberance of the abdomen, for which the Australians are so remarkable, particularly when young, is very observable. 3. AUSTRALIAN ABORIGINES From Angus South Australia Illustrated. No. 4 represents a man of the Nauo tribe from Coffin s Bay, W. of Port Lincoln. He wears a covering of emu feathers, with ornaments .of shaved sticks in his hair, which is bound round with spun opossum fur ; in his hand is a womera or instrument for throwing the spear. His breast is marked with deep incisions, cut horizontally across the breast ; these are filled with clay, which prevents them healing, and renders them hard and horny, resembling tubes of gristle, which pro ject from the skin, and produce a repulsive disfigurement of the body. No. 5 represents a woman of the Milmendura tribe, on the Coorong, equipped for travelling, with her net made of bulrush fibres and her rush-basket slung at her back ; she is also provided with the digging stick or katta, and carries fire in her hand between two pieces of bark. Her garment is the circular mat made of reeds, called paingkocut. No. 6 is a man AUSTRALIA 262 AUSTRALIA of the Milmendura tribe, wearing the sea-weed cloak, the most complete and perfect garment to be met with among the S. Australian natives. It resembles a coarse matting, the long ends of the grass-like weed forming a graceful fringe at the bottom of the garment. This dress is of rare occurrence, and only manufactured during the inclement season to protect the individual from the weather on exposed shores. No. 7 is an old man of the Moorundi tribe, on the Murray. The form of the Australian is less massive than that of the African negro, but he is much more swift and graceful in his movements, and is much more agile and adroit; and when beheld, says Count Strzelecki, in the posture of striking, or throwing his spear, his attitude leaves nothing to be desired in point of manly grace. Their speech, meaning particularly the natives of New S. Wales, says the same authority, possesses all those felicitous combinations of syllables which constitute a highly sonorous and euphonious language. Both the physical an 1 intellectual qualities of the Australian aboriginal have been rated much too low, the descriptions hitherto given of him having been apparently from specimens found amongst the debased and degenerate races in the neighbourhood of Sydney, corrupted by the contact of civilization, which, instead of im proving his condition, has taught him new vices, and reduced him from the independence of savage life to a state of Starva tion and beggary. Inform he is by no means the miserable looking creature he has been so frequently represented, neither are his perceptions nor intellectual capabilities at all so limited as they have been described. There is, as might be expected, great diversity, both as regards personal appear ance and character amongst them ; but we have the evidence of Capt. Stokes, and other recent writers, to show that both have been unwarrantably disparaged. The former, who circum navigated Australia, and who thus came in contact with a great variety of tribes, frequently speaks of them as being a fine race of men, and the tribes about Shoal Haven and the small S. ports, he describes as good-looking, useful fellows, of whom much may hereafter be mads. A curious and inter esting manifestation of native talent was found by this intel ligent navigator in Depuch Island, on the N. coast; this was a ! series of drawings of animals, &c., on the smooth surface of j the rocks. Much ability, says Capt. Stokes, is displayed | in many of these representations, the subjects of which could be discovered at a glance. The number of specimens was | immense, so that the natives must have been in the habit of amusing themselves in this innocent manner for a long period j of time. When to this the fact is added, that on the same j coast, the canoes of the natives, according to the same author- ity, are neatly and artistically made, it is irrational to insist on ; entertaining a mean opinion of their capacity. In common j with other savages, but perhaps in a higher degree than any, j not excepting the red men of America, they possess singu larly acute physical perceptions, which they exercise in a way that would appear to be incompatible with a very low condi tion of the intellectual faculties. Of their extraordinary sharpness of vision, Capt. Stokes records an interesting in stance: Two natives were employed to track the footsteps of the strayed child of a settler, a boy of six or seven years of age, which they did for many miles, tracing the tiny footprints through brushwood, over fallen leaves, and large spaces of grass-covered ground, till the object of their search was found. Not the least interesting feature in this case was the joy which these poor savages expressed on discovering the strayed child. Capt. Stokes mentions another instance of their singular acuteness of vision, where a particular individual, a settler, was distinguished and named by a native from his footprint, sub sequent inquiry confirming the accuracy of the recognition. In the following slightly abridged quotation from the same author, we have an account of an aboriginal whose conduct and bearing are alone sufficient to elevate the character of his whole race in the estimation of civilized man : We had just completed our surveying operations, says Capt. Stokes, when \ two of the boat s crew came to report a visit from one of the j natives ; they said their sable visitor came to them without any enticing, no offers of red or blue handkerchiefs, or some gaudy bauble that seldom fails to catch the eye of the savage, ! and without the slightest indication of fear. We hurried down ! to see this marvellously confiding native, whom we found coming up the hill; he met us with all the confidence of an old acquaintance. His first act of civility was to show , Mr. Tarrant and myself an easy road to the beach ; and I shall never forget, as he preceded us, or rather walked by our side, yielding the path, with natural politeness, to those he seemed to regard as his guests, how wonderful was the agility he displayed in passing over the rocks, sometimes coming down the face of one almost precipitous without the lca.st apparent effort. His height was about 5 ft. 8 inches, his forehead was remarkably high, his perception very quick, and his utterance gentle and slow. His extraordinary confidence in us commanded the respect of us all. As already remarked, there is, however, great diversity in the characters of the dif ferent tribes, as well as in their social condition ; while many of them are mild, intelligent, and inoffensive, some are fierce, vindictive, and generally in a state of the rudest barbarism. Of this description are the natives inhabiting the vicinity of Cape Villaret; these savages, unlike the more advanced tribes, who wear cloaks made of opossum skins, go entirely naked, with the exception of a coarse grass mat round the waist ; their spears, also, are clumsy and ill-shaped. Neither is there now any doubt that the native Australians, or at least some of the tribes, indulge in cannibalism. Haydar says that he has on several occasions seen human flesh in their possession, and that he was told that they make a point of eating certain portions of their enemies killed in battle. Infanticide also is practised to a great extent, arising from the extreme difficulty the mother finds in rearing her offspring. They have several curious superstitious beliefs and observ ances. One of the most extraordinary of the former is, the belief that white men were their fellow-countrymen in a former state of existence. Acting on this belief, a party of natives regularly visited a settler twice a year on account of his re semblance to a deceased relative. On these occasions, the settler s kindred, as these poor savages thought themselves, travelled a distance of CO m., and had, besides, to pass through an enemy s country. The Australians have a superstitious horror of approaching the graves of the dead ; they are averse even to speak of them, and when they do, it is always in a whisper. They stand, also, in great awe of the noises of the forest when agitated by a tempest. From the reports of the Commandant at the aboriginal settlement on Flinder s Island, it appears that the natives are making a gratifying progress towards civilization, and becoming expert in some of the industrial arts. In road-making, says one of these reports, they are complete adepts ; they are fully equal, in this kind of labour, to the most experi enced of the white men in the settleraent, and for celerity of movement are greatly superior. In husbandry they had also made great progress, preparing the ground for, and plant ing their own potatoes. Several of the younger male mem bers of the establishment had been put to different trades, and were making rapid proficiency ; one youth, who wrote a fair hand, was employed in the Commandant s office as a clerk or copyist, and another as a messenger. Nor were the females behind the males in aptitude. They had become expert needlewomen, and had attained great proficiency in the art of manufacturing French net. In regard to the domestic arrange ments of their dwellings, they were found to be fully equal to a large majority of white women, and to many much superior. Their culinary utensils were kept clean, and were tastefully ar ranged; they washed their husband s linen, cooked, baked bread, and performed all the ordinary domestic duties of civilized life with judgment and propriety. Some of the more intelligent of the men were employed as police, and were found perfectly efficient in all respects. On one occasion, several of these aboriginal police were despatched in search of a convict who had absconded ; they discovered him, brought him back to the settlement handcuffed, and safely lodged him in the jail. Unfortunately, our relations to the aborigines are not all of this satisfactory character. Violence and bloodshed have marked the contact of the two races. The savage, driven from his hunting grounds, and deprived of subsistence, commits depredations on the flocks of the settler, who, in return, puts the savage to death when and wherever he meets with him ; the latter retaliates by murdering the white man when oppor tunity offers, and a war of extermination is the result. From this fierce and sanguinary spirit, some of the most atrocious scenes have arisen that can well be conceived, the greater turpitude, and greater recklessness of human life and human suffering, being almost always with the whites. Ft is but pro AUSTRALIA 263 AUSTRALIA per to add, that the British Government has ever shown the utmost anxiety for the protection and well-being of tine native. The despatches of Lord Glenelg, while colonial secretary, to the governor, and other public officers of New S. Wales, are filled with injunctions to these functionaries to use every means in their power to protect the native from the violence of the settlers, to conciliate him by forbearance and gentle treatment, and to provide for his wants. The aborigines are declared to be British subjects, and as such entitled to the protection of the laws, and to all the rights and privileges pertaining thereto. The murder of a native to be considered in the same light as the murder of a white man, and the same consequences to attend the perpetration of the crime, by whom soever committed. Acting on this principle of justice, seven men, all convicts and servants of settlers, were hanged at Sydney in the year 1838, for the murder of 22 natives, men, women, and children, whom the ruffians led out, tied together by a rope, to a solitary place, and assassinated, one after the other, burning the bodies afterwards. The native Australians possess no regular habitations, be ing generally on the move in search of food ; but some places along the coasts, where they can obtain a constant supply of fish and oysters, they construct such huts as those represented IVE UUTS, JKUVIS BAl D Urville, Voyage di- i Astrolabe. iu the accompanying woodcuts. No. 1 is a hut of the natives of Jervis Bay. New S. Wales. It is a superior structure to that which follows, bearing out the opinion held as to the greater intelligence of the aborigines of the E. parts of Aus tralia. The native at the door of the hut is procuring fire, by Colonies. The colonies established in Australia are, S. Australia, W. Australia, New S. Wales, and the settlement of Victoria, Port Philip or Australia Felix, and Cooksland or Moreton Bay. A settlement, called N. Australia, was formed some years since, but was abandoned in 1847, after an outlay by the Government of upwards of 15,000. There are two rival routes to Australia, the E. and the W. The one by the Isthmus of Suez, and the other by the Isthmus of Panama. The latter is more direct, and shorter than the former by 1798 m.; the distance by Suez and Singapore be ing 14,488 m , while that via Panama is only 12,690. The distance by the Cape of Good Hope to Sydney, is 13,880 m. ; being 1190 m. more than that by Panama, which is thus the shortest of the three. Commerce, &c. The trade of Australia is still only in pro cess of being developed, many articles not being yet produced in sufficient quantity to admit of extensive export. The com merce is, however, already considerable, and is rapidly extend ing; and, with the increase of population, becomes every year more important to L ritain, whence the colonists derive their supplies of manufactured goods. Particulars respecting the commerce of Australia will be found in articles on the separate colonies. Here it may be noted, generally, that of late years, copper ore, gold, and wool have formed important items of export. After gold, wool is the staple commodity. The ex traordinary increase, from 1830 to 1853, in the quantity of this article produced in Australia, and exported to Great Bri tain, is shown in the following table: Year 1S30 1810 1815 Lbs. 1,967,309 9,721,433 | 24,177,31: 1851 1852 1853 S5.803.831 1. 37,567.5-23 40,861,437 QUANTITIES of the CIIIKF AHTI the U.NITKU Ki I.KS ExrouTKn from AUSTBALI ODOM in 1*51-18:V?. 1851. 1852. 1853. Copper ore, resmlusof copper, cast copper, ton? Copper, wrought Hides, not tanned cwts Hides, tanned Ihs 7,583 2.H 33,280 562,769 248 3,601 1,091 10,545 373 89,638 : ,! ,) m I 1,970 10.69 1 804 14631 37,675 159,(!C1 3.44 i 3,327 686 41,S2t 213 993 8.&31 425 ?,(>5\1 1 -21,12s 752 Mother-of-pearl shi lls, rousjh cwts O 1, cocoa-nut Oil, spermaceti .. tuns Quicksilver Ihs Skins, sheep, undressed and tanned No Tallow cwts Wine, produce of Brit. set. in Australia, ;;als 6,552 170.154- 1,714 HOT 01 MILMKNDUKA TRIBE From j^ngns South Australia Illustrated. nibbing together two pieces of grass tree. The grass sticks are of two kinds, hard and soft. The soft piece is held firmly by the feet, whilst the hard one is rubbed between the hands, with the point inserted into the soft piece. No. 2 is a hut of the Milmendura tribe, built on the shores of the Coorong, a lagoon in S. Australia, IS. and W. Lake Alexandrina or Victoria. On these bleak shores, the huts are built facing the N.E., in order to shelter them from the prevailing S. and W. winds. To the end of 1.852 probably above 10,000,000 of gold have been exported. In 1851, 271 vessels, tonn. 145,777 left the United Kingdom for Australia; but in 1852, 501 vessels, tonn. 304,118, were despatched. Pop. (1849) 287,409. History and Discovery. The first account given of Australia was by Torres, a Spaniard, who passed , through the strait that now bears his name, between Papua and Australia, in the year 1C06. Between this period and 1 628, a large portion of the coast line of Australia had been surveyed by various Dutch navigators. Between 1684 and 1690, Dampier explored a part of the W. and N.W. coasts, to which discovery had hitherto been confined; but, in 1770, Cook extended it to the E. coast, which he care fully surveyed. He was followed by Bligh in ] 789, who carried on a series of observations on the, N.E. coast, adding largely to the knowledge already obtained of this new world. Colonists had now arrived on the soil, and a penal settlement was formed (1787) at Port Jackson. Since then, various adventurers, both by land and sea, have been endeavouring, with more or less success, to increase the amount of information regarding both the interior and the coasts of Aus tralia. Amongst the former are, Mr. Oxley, Messrs. IIowcll and Hume, Capt. Sturt, Major Mitchell, Mr. Earle, Count Strzelecki, Capt. Gray, Messrs. Lander and Lefray, Dr. Leichardt, and Assistant-Surveyor Kennedy, who was mur dered by the natives, when exploring the course of the Victoria, in 1848. Amongst the more eminent navigators, besides those already named, who have explored the coasts of Australia, are, Capts. King, Bass, and Flinders ; and, in recent times, Capt, AUSTRALIA FELTX 261 AUSTRALIA (WESTERN) Ptokcs, to the latter of whom we are, as the reader will have perceived, indebted for much of the newest and most interest ing information contained in this article. (De Strzelecki s Physical Description of New S. Wales and Van Diemen s Land; Stokes s Discoveries in Australia, <&c.; Dutton s S. Australia and its Mines; Government Returns regarding Australian Aborigines; Martin s British Colonial Library; James s S. Australia; Butler s Handbook for Australian Emigrants; Sturt s Expedition into Central Australia, 1845 ; Jukes s Sketch of the Physical Structure of Australia.) AUSTRALIA FELIX. See PORT PHILIP. AUSTRALIA (EASTERN), or NEW S. WALES, the E. part of Australia, S. of lat. 26 S., and E. of Ion. 141 E.; bounded, N. by N. Australia, W. by S. Australia, S. by Bass s Strait, and E. by the Pacific; greatest length about 900-m., and greatest breadth about 750 m. This large district is now divided into 1, Cooksland, or Moreton Bay, comprising the N. portion, S. to lat. 30 S. 2, New S. Wales proper, or the middle district, the oldest colony in Australia, from lat. 30 S. to Cape Howe, lat. 37 30 S. 3, Australia Felix, Port Philip, or Victoria, W. of Cape Howe, S. of the rivers Murrumbidgee and Murray, and E. of S. Australia. See NEW S. WALES, COOKSLAND, and PORT PHILIP. AUSTRALIA (NORTH), that part of Australia lying N. of lat. 26 S.. and E. of Ion. 129 E. ; bounded, N. by the Indian | Ocean; E. by the Pacific, on which side it is fringed by the Great Barrier Keef (which see); S. by E. and S. Australia; j and W. by W. Australia ; greatest length, W. to E., about i 1500 m.; greatest breadth, N. to S., about 1000 m. On the j N. shore is the immense Gulf of Carpentaria, about 400 m. sq. j and in the W., the Gulfs of Van Diemen and Cambridge. Of this large tract of country comparatively little is yet known. Not a single permanent settlement exists upon it ; the hot un healthy Government station at Port Essington, on Coburg s Peninsula, Arnhem s Land, notwithstanding the great hopes that were formed of it, having been abandoned in 1849. For what is known respecting N. Australia, the reader is referred to the articles ARNHEM S LAND, PORT ESSINGTON, CAPE YORK, CARPENTARIA (GULF OF), ADELAIDE RIVER, &c. AUSTRALIA (SOUTH), a British colony, so called from occupying an extensive region on the S. shore of the Aus tralian island-continent, between lat. 26 and 38 S., and Ion. 132 and 141 E., and bounded S. by the Southern Ocean, E. Victoria, N. unoccupied and almost unexplored territories, and W. Western Australia; area, 300,000 sq. m. The coast, about 1500 m. long, is generally low and of desolate aspect, but is occasionally skirted by low sandhills, and towards its E. extremity rises into rocky cliffs of sandstone, covered with wood, and rising to the height of 600 ft. to 800 ft. It is lined j by numerous islands, all small except that of Kangaroo, and is remarkable, particularly in the S., for the number and depth of its indentations, being penetrated from S. to N. by the large gulfs of Spencer and St. Vincent, separated from each other i by Yorke Peninsula, and containing, on the S.W. shore of the former, the excellent harbour of Port Lincoln, and, on the E. shore of the latter, Adelaide, the rising capital of the colony. A large portion of the interior consists of stony bar- j ren tracts, often so completely destitute of vegetation as to present all the appearance of a desert waste, and apparently doomed, from the want of water, to remain for ever unfit for human habitation. Still, after deducting the waste, large tracts remain, some of tolerable fertility, covered with wood or scrub, or somewhat scanty grass, well adapted for exten sive sheep-walks, and others of admirable fertility, capable of raising all kinds of grain and fruit. The surface is traversed by several mountain-ranges, the highest summits of which scarcely, if it all, exceed 3000 ft. Of these, Mount Lofty, commencing at Cape Jervis, which forms the E. entrance of the Gulf of St. Vincent, skirts the E. shore ; of thatgulf for about 40m., attaining the height of 2334 ft, and j then continues N. into the interior, where it seems gradually to descend, but its course has not been traced. Its principal j summits are Razor Back, 2992 ft., in lat. 33 30 ; imme diately N. of it, Mountain Bryan, 3012 ft., with its celebrated Burra-Burra mine; and still farther N., about lat. 32 40 , Black Rock Hill, 2750 ft. Near the head of Spencer Gulf Mount Lofty throws off an arm nearly at right angles, which, under the name of the Gawler Range, stretches nearly due W., rising gradually as it proceeds, and makes a sudden bend N.N.W. Its extreme height appears to be about 2000 ft. It is singularly rugged and barren. On the 1. bank, and near the mouth of the Murray, a range of moderately elevated heights proceeds S.S.E., skirting the coast to its extremity near Cape Northumberland. Throughout these ranges the existence of volcanic agency at a former period is everywhere apparent, and several distinct craters can be traced. The higher summits are usually composed of granite, sienite, por phyry, greenstone, and other igneous rocks. On the lower slopes slate usually prevails, but both on them, and at still higher elevations, a ferruginous sandstone is largely developed. Among the mountains E. of Gulf St. Vincent primitive lime stone, often in the form of a beautiful white marble, is very abundant. Throughout these formations, and more especially in veins of quartz penetrating the clay-slate, a great variety of valuable minerals have been found, including copper, which has already been worked to a considerable extent, and yielded most profitable returns, argentiferous lead, manganese, zinc, and iron. Gold also exists, but has not yet been found in such abundance as to entitle S. Australia to rank as a gold-field. Almost the only stream within the colony which deserves the name of river is the Murray, which enters the colony on the E., in lat. 34, flows first circuitously W., and then S. into the extensive lagoon called Lake Victoria, communicating with Encounter Bay. Though the largest river of S. Australia, it would, in well-watered countries, rank as a comparatively in significant stream, but its great importance here cannot easily be over-estimated, more especially since it has been ascertained that daring the rainy season it is navigable by steamers through its whole course within the colony. Almost all the other streams are, for the greater part of the year, merely chains of ponds. Lakes, both salt and fresh, are numerous, but seldom large. The shallow lagoon of Victoria or Alex andria has been already mentioned. The only other deserv ing of notice, as forming a remarkable physical feature, is Lake Torrens, a shallow basin, which curves from S. to N. in the form of a horse-shoe, for at least 400 m., with a breadth vary ing from 20 m. to 30 m. The climate is hot, but salubrious, and has proved by no means trying to European constitutions. At Adelaide, in the summer months of December, January, and February, the maximum temperature is about 103, the minimum about 65. In July, the depth of the Australian winter, the maximum is 60, and the minimum 48. The surface being much more pastoral than agricultural, wool has hitherto been the staple product; but all the ordinary grain-crops, maize, and pota toes, grow well. The vine finds both a congenial soil and climate, and many varieties of fruit, including melons of un common size and quality, are becoming abundant. By far the most important export is copper, which, in the three years ending 5th January, 1854, amounted as follows: Copper ore (1851), 4128 tons; (1852), 8582 tons ; (1853), 2G77 tons: regulus of copper (185!), 18G tons; (1852), 401 tons; (1853), 36 tons: copper unwrought (1851), 760 tons; (1852), 629 tons; (1853), 462 tons: copper partly wrought (1851), 219 tons; (1852), 372 tons; (1853), 581 tons. The great falling off in 1853 is accounted for by the greater attraction of the Victoria gold-fields. The next most valuable export is wool, which, in the last of the above years, amounted to 3,339,743 Ibs.; the declared value of imports was 1,182,455. The revenue of 1851 was 109,469. In 1853 the population amounted to 70,000. For administrative purposes South Australia is divided into 11 counties. As a colony it was founded by the South Australian Company in 1834, but not properly esta blished till 1837. AUSTRALIA (WESTERN), in the most extended sense, that portion of Australia W. of Ion. 127 1 E.; bounded, E. by N. and S. Australia, and N., W., and S. by the Indian and S. Pacific Oceans. It lies between lat. 13 45 and 35 10 S.; Ion. 112 40 and 127 E. Of this vast territory little is known. Its interior has never been visited, and even its shores have only been partially explored with any degree of minuteness. Its principal bays and gulfs are, Cambridge Gulf, King Sound, Exmouth Gulf, and Shark Bay, all on the N. and W. coasts, there not being a single gulf of any extent on the S. coast, as far as yet known. The principal capes are on the S.W., Cape Leeuwin; on the W., N.W. Cape; AUSTRALIA (WESTERN) 2 Go AUSTRIA (EMPIRE) and on the N., Capes Leveque, Voltaire, Bougainville, Talbot, | and Londonderry. The coast is everywhere, but especially j on the N. and N.W., fringed with coral reefs and islets. N. | of lat. 18 S. it is, as a whole, high, frequently rocky, and at . times well wooded. From lat. 18 to 26 S., it is gener- ally low, sandy, and mostly barren, though here and there rocky hills, patches of grass, and thick mangroves are met with. The remainder of the coast, including the whole of the colony of W. Australia, is elevated, with some intervals of low sandy shore; in some parts it is barren, but in many it is well wooded. The only part of this portion of Australia known with any degree of accuracy, is the colony above referred to. W. AUSTRALIA (Colony of). In a more restricted sense, the name W. Australia is applied to a British colony on the S.W. coast of Australia, founded in 1829, between lat. 30 30 and 35 10 S.; and Ion. 115 and 119 35 E., occupying a space of 300 m. N. to S., and about 160 or 170 E. to W., with a coast line of about 600 m. Its first appearance is not very inviting; dull, green-looking downs, backed by a slightly undulating range of hills, rising to nearly 2000 ft. high, are the chief natural features. It consists of 26 counties, mostly of pretty regular form, lying compactly together, and varying from about 40 to 70 m. in length, and from 30 to 45 in breadth. The land here generally is not remarkable for fertility, the entire territory containing, perhaps, a greater quantity of positively bad land than any other of the Australian colonies ; but, with manure and proper cultivation, very good grain may be produced. The weight of the wheat hitherto grown has been more than 70 Ibs. per bushel, and its quality gener ally as good as that of S. Australia. Soil, upon which sheep have been folded, produces on an average about 20 bushels per acre, but it might be much increased. A great deal of barley is grown. Oats will not grow well, and the climate is unsuited to flax. The herbage is scanty, and the average soil would keep about one sheep to 5 ac. ; but there is the advantage of a supply of water throughout the year, remain ing in pools or lakes, sufficient for the pastoral system, and for the climate generally. The vine, fig, and olive, are beginning to be extensively cultivated in the colony. Grapes and currants of every species also thrive, and a great deal of wine has been made from the former for the consumption of the colony. The quantity of vineyard already planted is 290 ac. The live stock of the colony, in 1848, was estimated at 116,570 head; but there is reason to believe that it much exceeds this, many of the settlers who had considerable flocks having refused to give returns, while others made incorrect ones. With the exception of cinnabar, which has been found in masses on the surface of the ground, in various places, no metalliferous ores have yet been discovered within the colony. Coal of good quality has been found, and, from the reports of j the geologist employed by the Government, it appears that fields of great extent may be calculated on. Very little trade is carried on from this colony to S. Australia or New S. Wales, ! but there is an active communication with Singapore and j the Mauritius. To the latter place, the exports are sheep, bullocks, and potatoes. The principal export of the colony is wool. It has, however, a less average market-price in . Britain than the wools of the other Australian colonies, partly j from its being less known, and partly owing to inferior care bestowed on getting it up, from want of labour, though, in trinsically, it is quite equal to any of them. Its production has greatly increased, and there is a capacity of almost un limited extension. The next most important article of export is sandal-wood, the markets for which are Singapore and , China. In 1846, there were only 32 tons of this wood shipped from the colony ; in the following year the quantity amounted to 370J tons, and would have been much larger had the colonists possessed the means of conveying the wood which had been felled to the port. There is likewise an available supply of shipbuilding timber, which grows quite close to the sea ; it is analogous to Honduras mahogany, is of a great size, possesses the peculiar property of resisting the sea-worms, and is not apt to split or warp, while at the same time it is more easily worked than any other wood in Australia. It | has been used in the colony for building small vessels, and also for rafters, &c., in house-building, being impervious to the white ant. A ship-load was supplied to the Admiralty, under contract, last autumn (1848), and was very highly VOL. I. approved of. It is confidently expected that when the value of this timber, the jarrah of the colonists, becomes more widely known, it will materially promote the progress of the colony, which hitherto has not been very rapid; while, in some respects, there has been a positive retrogression. In 1853 the only item of export to the United Kingdom was wool, and that only to the amount of 24,059 Ibs., though in 1851 it had attained the amount of 368,595 Ibs., and in 1852 that of 327,696 Ibs. The total imports in the same year, amounting to 100,917, consisted chiefly of haberdashery, beer and ale, cotton, woollen, and silk goods, iron, steel, hardware, and cut lery, leather, soap, and candles. In 1853 the quantity of land alienated was 1,332,303 acres, and the quantity surveyed and open for settlement only 21,600 acres. In 1849 the tonnage entered was 7592 tons, and cleared 8145 tons; in 1850 the entered was 15,988 tons, and the cleared 14,748 tons. For administrative purposes the colony is divided into 32 counties. The government is similar to that of the other Australian colonies. The most important part of the colony is the Swan Eiver settlement, founded in August, 1829, by Captain Stir ling, who was appointed governor. Freemantle, at the en trance of the river, is the port ; and Perth, situated about 9 m. inland, in the county of the same name, is the capital and seat of government. It is a large straggling village, partly concealed by the abrupt termination of a woody ridge, and standing on a picturesque slope on the right bank of the river. Guilford and York are the other chief places in the colony. The Swan Eiver, like all the other rivers of Australia, is sub ject to sudden and tremendous floods, which inundate the corn- lands in its vicinity, and sweep away all opposing obstacles with irresistible impetuosity. The number of aborigines is about 1500. A good feeling exists towards them, and many of them are employed by the settlers in menial capacities, but they are fast decreasing. Pop. of colony (1851), 0967. AUSTRALIAN ALPS, a mountain-range, Australia, in the colonies of Port Philip and New S. Wales, extending from lat. 38 S.; Ion. 146 30 E., in a N.E. direction for about 200 m., and forming part of the great Australian chain from Wilson s promontory to Cape York. Its highest peaks are, Mount Kosciusko or Wellington, 6500 ft. ; Mount Dargal, 5490 ft.; and Mount Pinnabar, 4100 ft. AUSTRALIAN GRAMPIANS, a mountain-system in Victoria or Port Philip, W. the Pyrenees, cos. Kipon and Dundas. The highest known peak, Mount William, is 4500 ft. above the sea level. This, the most W. system in the colony, has generally a N. and S. direction, and is composed of several ridges. From its N. slopes rise the Wimmera and Norton, which unite and flow N. to Lake Hindmarsh. From its W. and E. slopes flow the rivers Glenelg, Wando, Wan- nou, and Grange, which all unite into one stream, and fall into the sea in Ion. 141 E. AUSTRALIAN PYRENEES, a congeries of mountains in Victoria or Port Philip, N.W. Melbourne, cos. Talbot and Kipon, and connected W., by low ridges, with the Australian Grampians. The culminating peak, as far as known, is Mount Cole, rather more than 100 m. W.N.W. Melbourne. From their N. slopes rise the rivers Avoca and Yarrayne, the latter an affluent of the Murray. AUSTREY, par. Eng. Warwick; 2280 ac. Pop. (1841), 479. AUSTRIA (EMPIRE OF) [German, Oesterreich or Ostreiclt the Eastern kingdom]. The Austrian empire is one of the largest and most populous of the European states, situated nearly in the centre of the continent. It extends from about lat. 42 to 51 N., or, exclusive of Dalmatia and the narrower part of Croatia, from about lat. 44 30 to 51 N., and from about Ion. 8 30 to 26 30 E. ; comprising 258,000 sq. m. or 45,000 more than France. Its greatest length, from E. to W. , is about 860 m. ; its greatest breadth, from N. to S., with the exclusions above stated, isabout 400m.; bounded, S. by Turkey, the Adriatic Sea, and the independent states of Italy; W. by Sardinia, Switzerland, Bavaria, and Saxony; N. by Prussia and Russian Poland ; and E. by Russia and Moldavia. On the shores of the Adriatic, along the coasts of Dalmatia arid Venetian Lombardy, lies its only sea frontage, extending, exclusive of islands, about 500 m. The Austrian empire is composed of a union of different states, some of them at one time forming independent king doms, inhabited by races of people differing from each other 84 AUSTRIA (EMPIRE) 2G6 AUSTRIA (EMPIRE) in descent, language, customs, laws, anil religion, held together as one empire, by being under one sovereign and one central government It is divided into 15 governments, correspond ing in a certain respect to the nationalities of which it is com posed. The following table exhibits the name and area of these governments, with their population in 1850: ARRANGEMENT of PROVINCES according to tlie Constitution of March 4, 1849, and POPULATION in 1850, exclusive of Military. PKOVI.NCKS. G.o. sy. m. Pollution, 1830. Pop. per CHIEF TOWNS. Population, 1. Archduchy Upper Austria 3,484-32 6,781-00 2,086 08 6 539-36 706,316 1,53-sOtf 14fi,()07 ] 106971 202-7 2C60 C98 1 54-0 I.inz 2B,67fi 407 980 Vicn-m 2 Thich\ of Salzlmr" Salzhur" 11.185 61,349 12,051 17,375 53,310 12,512 1 1 5, 136 45,189 12.827 7( ,970 15,016 0,850 1 56,306 1-27,925 141,100 15.000 25,500 3. Duchv of Stvria ., 4. Duchy of Carinthia . .. *.. .. 8,0(17-04 2,9021)8 2,313-76 8,365-92 15,103-^0 6 4CO-80 1, -197- 12 83,738-39 3,0:5504 8,718-56 6,274-40 31y,224 403,956 03,016 659,706 4,109,900 1,799,830 438,586 4,555,477 380.82S 893,715 2.7^5,740 1061 1691 219-5 102-7 892-0 278 5 2 .3-0 2004 125-4 K 5-8 434-4 s-::8-7 1505 1G3-0 103-1 117-5 1034 KlauenfMrt 1, ay bach 5. Duchy of Carniola 6. County of Goritz and Gradisra, with the) Marjtraviate of Istria, and the town and [ territory of Trieste . . ) Trieste Innspruck I rusiue Brunn 7. Counties of Tyrol and Vorarlberg 10. Ducliy of Upper and Lower Silesia 11. Galicia, with Zator, Auschwitz, and Cracow ... Troppau Lemberg 13. Kingdom of Dalrnatia Zara H Lombardy. Milan Venice Buda and Peith Agram 15 Venice 16. Kingdom of Hungary 62.217-20 8,710-96 5,323-84 17 OH 48 9,752-32 7.804,262 1,420,221 868,458 2,073,7^7 1,009,109 17. AVoiwody of Servia anil Temeswar Banat 18. KinL domof Croatia and Sclavonia, with the ) Croat coast lands and Fiume f 19. Principality of Transylvania 20. Military Frontiers ...". Total 193,920-72 35,775,834 184-5 As this article on the empire, as a whole, must necessarily be general, the reader is referred, for more specific notices of the pro vinces, to the separate articles on them throughout the work. General Aspect. Although presenting every variety of surface, the prevailing character of the Austrian dominions is mountainous, there being few districts where mountains are not found ; while the plains do not occupy more than a fifth part of the whole superficies. The loftiest ranges, and the most extensively ramified, are found in Tyrol, Styria, Illyria, and the S. parts of Austria Proper. In some of these regions, the scenery is bold and romantic, and has been considered equal to that of Switzerland. The most extensive tracts of low or i!at land occur in Sclavonia and the S.E. and central parts of Hungary; much of this level land is remarkably fertile, but it is met at various points by vast morasses and arid steppes. The principal valleys are found in Tyrol, Salzburg, Styria, and Illyria. Extensive plains stretch along the courses of the rivers, particularly the Po, the Danube, and the March. The principal rivers of Austria are the Danube, the Elbe, the Save, the Drave, the Jluhr, the March or Morawa, the Teiss or Theiss, and the Maros. The Danube, for upwards of 300 m., is navigable for pretty large vessels, throughout the whole Aus trian territory; while all the others, most of them tributaries of the Danube, are navigable for vessels of smaller size. All of them abound in fish. The lakes are numerous ; though those in the low lands, particularly in the plains of Hungary, are rather marshes than lakes, being collections of stagnant water with swampy margins. Those in the more elevated regions of Illyria, Tyrol, and the other mountainous districts, are pure lakes, surrounded with wood and rock, and all the other attributes of picturesque scenery. The finest lakes are to be found in Upper Austria; of which the principal are the Attersee, the Mondsee, the Traunsee, and several others. In Styria, the lakes are numerous but small. Climate, and Vegetable Productions. Austria lies between the isotherms of 60 and 50, and has a climate nearly as vari ous as its surface. In some parts, as in Hungary, the annual fall of rain is comparatively small ; while the W. and N.\V. parts of the empire, in this respect, resemble the W. of Eng land ; and the alpine regions are probably the most rainy in Europe. The N. regions, between the 49th and 51st degrees of N. lat., have an average temperature resembling that of the N. of France. Between lat. 40 and 49 the heat is con siderable; and betyveen 42 and 46, which comprises the whole of S. Austria, it is still greater ; the winter lasting two or three months only, and being, in general, extremely mild. In the first region, the principal products are wheat, barley, oats, and rye; in the second, vines and maize are added; anrl in the third, olives. The productive capabilities of the soil, however, are by no means rendered available to their full extent. The quantity of land under cultivation is equal to that in Great Britain, but the produce, even where the soil is superior, is nearly a third less. The wines of Austria are poor, with exception of a few choice kinds, including the well-known Tokay; and none, therefore, but such descriptions are exported, and these in very limited quantity. A great portion of the worst wine is made into brandy. The average produce of wine is about 3,200,000,000 gallons, of which Hungary yields by far the largest proportion. The vineyards, by which the above quantity of wine is produced, occupy 487,202 ac. The quantity of arable land is 52,433,382 ac. ; producing, of yvheat, maize, rye, barley, and oats, 60,260,666 quarters. The forests cover more than an eighth part of the productive soil of the empire, and form no inconsiderable source of wealth. About half of the whole is in Hungary, including the Banat, Croatia, and Sclavonia, and in Transyl vania. Much of it is of excellent quality, and well adapted for house and ship building, furniture, and for all other pin- poses. In general, however, owing to bad management, it is not nearly so productive as it ought to be. Animals. "Wild deer, wild syvine, chamois, foxes, lynxes, and a species of small black bear, are found in many districts, the fox and iynx being particularly abundant. Herds of a native breed of horses, of small size, roam wild over the plains of Hungary. All the domestic animals of England are known throughout the empire. Domesticated birds, especially ducks and geese, are abundant, and wild birds more numerous than in any other part of Europe. Among the latter are wild geese, bustards, grouse, blackcocks, woodcocks, wild ducks, widgeon, teal, &c. Geology, Mineralogy, <fe. A large portion of the countries now composing the Austrian empire, was at one time sub merged by the sea; particularly Hungary, where the general appearance of its vast plains, the nature of their soil, and, above all, the occurrence of fossil sea-shells, leave no room to doubt the former dominion of the ocean. Throughout all Austria the tertiary formation prevails, with a margin of the secondary formation, stretching to a greater or lesser extent into the surrounding countries, and diversified by patches of igneous rocks of the tertiary and alluvial epochs. In mineral productions, Austria surpasses, probably, everyother country in Europe; possessing, with the exception of platinum, all the metals. In Transylvania, gold is obtained in large quan tity; and in Hungary, silver abounds. Copper and lei d AUSTRIA (EMPIRE) 267 AUSTRIA (EMPIRE) mines exist in different parts of the empire. The repositories of iron are inexhaustible; but, from the high price of fuel, the quantity produced is far short of what it might be. Tin is raised in Bohemia, but in no other part of the empire. Quicksilver is obtained in many places; but the richest mine, not only in Austria, but in Europe, is that at Idria in Car- niola. Calamine, zinc, cobalt, arsenic, antimony, chrome, bismuth, manganese, black tourmaline, alabaster, serpentine, gypsum, black-lead, slates, and flint, abound in many of the countries of the empire, and coal in almost every province. Salt, vitriol, alum, sulphur, saltpetre, and soda, are also among the mineral productions. In every part of the Austrian do minions, mineral springs are numerous. The precious stones are the Bohemian carbuncle and Hungarian opal, both much esteemed ; the chalcedony, ruby, emerald, jasper, amethyst, topaz, carnelian, chrysolite, and beryl. Marble, of every description and variety of colour, occurs in most of the provinces. Industry, Commerce, Minerals, &c. The quantity of gold obtained, in 1847, was 56,407 oz.; of silver, 867,607 oz.; of quicksilver, 3351 cwts., of which about a third was con verted into cinnabar ; of tin, found wholly in Bohemia, only 42 tons, a quantity quite insufficient for the home consumpt, though apparently not on the increase. Copper is found principally in Hungary. The whole produce, in 1847, was 2770 tons, but, as in the case of tin, the quantity obtained is not equal to the home demand ; zinc obtained, 294 tons. The produce in lead, in 1847, amounted to 3080 tons, anti mony to 201 tons, cobalt to 144 tons, but the largest produce of the metals is iron, which was, in 1850, 108,481 tons. Cast iron is produced chiefly in the N. provinces of Styria, Carinthia, with Carniola, Bohemia, Moravia, and Hungary. In 1841 there were, of blast-furnaces and smaller smelting-works in operation, 226; cupola-furnaces, 32 ; iron and steel forges, 835; puddle-works, 15, with 54 furnaces; plate-rolling works, 40, and 9 cast-steel furnaces. An important branch of the iron trade of Austria is the manufacture of rails for railways. Some years ago, however, Austria could not supply tlie demand for rails, and large quantities were imported. These importations have now greatly diminished, in consequence of an increase in the production. The quantity of coal produced in 1847, amounted to upwards of 685,499 tons, more than four times the quantity which was raised in 1833. The quantity of salt produced in 1850 rock, boiled, and bay salt amounted to 275,320 tons. The far greater number of the Austrian mines belong not to private companies, but to Government. The following table exhibits a comparative view of the produce of the Austrian mines, in the years 1823, 1833, and 1847: 1853. 1633. 1847. Gold Oz. 81,117 Oz. 311,135 Ot. 56 407 Silver Quicksilver 498,21? Cwts. 1,991 691,755 Cuts. 3711 8fi7,C07 Cwt*. 3351 27,327 43,500 55 400 Lead 550 80882 1,009 61 578 840 Lithar-e 19 8^4 27 557 Lead of commerce "6929 12,897 1 188 15,480 1 d"6 Zuicbleiid 791 Zinc 1 055 50 Kavv iron Foundry iron Sulphur . . . 1.0S2.7C8 71,517 8 809 1,47(5,374. 159,460 Ifi 323 2,PG : -VI49 447,038 23 5T 28 1 555 Antimony 6 373 4029 Colialt Graphite Coal Alum Sulplinte of iron Sulpliate of copper 2, 225,8i2 24,811 31,270 360 15 1,087 10,187 3,228,556 25,251 40,000 4,700 2,700 28,937 13,711,350 26.6D2 41,135 6,014 47 Total Value 1014,310 1,387,421 700,690 Silk. The textile manufactures of Austria have consider ably improved in extent of late years, but are still behind in regard to many important circumstances, including judicious selection of locality, subdivision of labour, and general man agement, which so largely contribute to the success of the English manufacturing establishments. Amongst the textile manufactures, silk holds a conspicuous place, although con fined chiefly to Vienna, Milan, Como, Prague, and Pesth. The first-named of these places consumes annually 600,000 Ibs. of spun silk, or silk-thread; the second, 180,000; and the last, 240,000, making, in all, ] ,020,000 Ibs. The whole produce of the silk manufactures of the Austrian empire amounts to about 3,500,000, employing altogether, in the various pro cesses, about 160,000 persons. The principal silk-producing provinces are Lombardy, Venice, Tyrol, the coast-lands, Hun gary, and the military frontiers. The produce of the Italian provinces alone was estimated at 5,000,000 Ibs. The silk-mills and silk-factories, in 1846, amounted in all to about 6850. Wool. The woollen trade of Austria is also considerable. In 1843 the entire annual produce of the empire was 771,875 cwts., of which Hungary produced nearly the one-half. The manufacture of woollen cloths is confined to Bohemia and Moravia chiefly ; the other provinces do not produce sufficient to meet their own demands. The entire production of Austria in woollen cloth and walked stuffs may be reckoned at about 1 ,000,000 pieces, value about 4,500,000. In the production of combed yarn, from which the finest description of goods is manufactured, the improvement has been considerable. In 1841, there were 14 mills for combed yarn, with 25,4(JO spindles, producing 88,258 cwfs. Tlie number of spindles may now be reckoned at 30,000. The whole produce of Austria, in combed woollen stuffs, may be reckoned at 658,500 pieces. In the manufacture of shawls, and shawl-cloths, Austria is rapidly acquiring a high reputation. The prin cipal seat of the manufacture is Vienna, where there are six factories, which, together, produce annually about 400,000 pieces, value 340,000. Linen. In consequence of the large quantity of linen pro duced by private individuals throughout the various provinces of Austria, an approximation, by estimate, of the value of the whole quantity produced, is all that can be attempted. This, founding on the best attainable) data, is about 6,570,000, employing 30,000 looms, and about 500,000 weavers ; and as each weaver requires 12 spinners, to supply the necessary quantity of yarn, there would appear to be three and a half millions of individuals, or a tenth part of the whole popula tion of the empire, more or less employed in this branch of in dustry. Though machinery for flax-spinning has recently been introduced, this operation is still performed chiefly by the hand. Cotton. The cotton-weaving of Austria is also upon the in crease. Besides the handlooms which it employs, and which, in 1843, were estimated at 90,000, numerous cotton-mills or fac tories have been erected, chiefly in Lower Austria and Bohemia, but partly also in Lombardy, the Tyrol, and other provinces. In 1848 the number, exclusive of those in Austrian Italy, Hun gary, and Transylvania, was 168, with 1,227,361 spindles. Cloth-printing. In the printing of both woollen and cotton, and in Turkey-red dyeing, Austria has made, and is making, great progress. The quantity of cotton and woollen goods printed in 1841 was, together, 2,035,000 pieces, value 2,181,000, of which about six-sevenths were cotton. To the number of pieces of printed cotton and woollen goods above given, there falls to be added 254,000 pieces of mixed fabric, produced in Lower Austria. The principal establishments for Turkey- red dyeing are in the N. of Bohemia in Vorarlberg, Moravia, Galicia, Lombardy, Treviso in Venice, Stein in Carniola, and one or two other places. The united produce of the whole was, in 1841, 12,000,000 pieces. The entire quantity of goods cotton, woollen, and mixed fabrics printed in Aus tria, is rather more than one-fifth of that printed in England, nearly equal to that of France, upwards of one-fourth more than that of Eussia, and more than double that of Prussia and Switzerland. The whole cotton manufactures of the empire, including spinning, weaving, and dyeing, may be estimatedat 4,500,000 ; the number of hands employed, at 360,000. Distilling and Brewing. Austria is somewhat remarkable for the number of its breweries and distilleries. Of the former, there are 3165, which produce about 100,000,000 gallons annually, consuming about 900,000 quarters of malt. The value of the beer produced in 1842 was stated at 2,500,000; the beer-tax amounting, in the same year, to 650,000. The whole quantity produced, however, only equals half that pro- AUSTRIA (EMPIRE) 268 AUSTRIA (EMPIRE) duoed in Bavaria. The number of distilleries in Austria, exclusive of Hungary, Transylvania, the military frontiers, Austrian Italy, and Dalmatia, was in 1850, 14,937, producing 39,577,5 10 gallons of spirit, of which Galicia alone produced 11,791,141 gallons. In Galicia, Moravia, and Silesia, the distilleries work chiefly from grain ; but in Bohemia, Styria, and Austria Proper, large quantities of spirits are manufac tured from wine-lees, plums, cherries, potatoes, &c. Austria had, in 1851, in addition to the sugar-refineries, which annually use about half a million cwts. of colonial sugar, 123 solely employed on the sugar obtained from beet root and potatoes. Of "these there are 63 in Bohemia, 26 in Moravia, and 20 in Hungary ; the remainder are scattered over the other crown-lands. In 1850, when the number of these refineries was only 82, they used 3,090,000 cwts. beet root, and 133,850 cwts. potatoes, in producing 161,174 cwts. raw sugar. The competition with colonial sugar is maintained by means of a heavy protecting duty. In addition to the general import and export trade, Austria carries on partly from its central position in the continent of Europe, and partly from its numerous navigable streams, excellent roads, and, in later times, its partially completed railway system a very considerable amount of business in the transit of goods through her territory to other countries. The transit duties vary from 2 kreutzers, or the 15th part of a shilling, to 27 kreutzers, or 10f d. per centner of 123 Ibs. The relative importance of these three branches of commerce will be perceived from the following table : IMPORT, EXPORT, and TRANSIT TRADE, in 1550. Natural and Agricultural Productions: Imports. Colonial produce 1,829,020 Southern produce and fruit 412,470 Tobacco Oil Grain, field and garden produce Liquors Fish.&c Fowls and giime Cattle and gheep Animal products (food) Draught cattle Fuel and bark Other natural and agricultural pro- ) 252,070 1.251,130 1,451,260 274,450 7,200 1,045,520 10N.600 69,270 240,680 61,200 Exports. 1.580 53,740 1U.130 2,090 43:5,360 128,710 24,670 8,330 302,910 217,640 35,960 514,040 98,983 62,208 6,087 25,645 204,123 28,2(i3 10,535 47 19,262 6,097 13,236 117,470 duce manufacturing Materials, and Partially Manufactured Articles . Medical and perfumer) goods (stuffs) 143.ROO Chemical products 8*8,990 Salt . 92,250 Dves, dvein-. and tannin- stuffs 1,115,370 Gum and resin " 1-U.060 Materials for colours 53,320 Minerals and earths 110,340 Precious stones and crude precious) 145770 Othrr metals partially manufactured 228,620 Raw or crude stuffs 4,016360 Yarn ,. 1,504,780 Manufactures* 666,260 Literary and artistic articles 73,780 55,240 15,980 152,440 109,160 65,410 95,880 18,500 10,400 72,790 8,110 354,180 3,731,180 169,820 3,745,220 59,180 7003 7,400 151,734 11,050 5,241 11.718 6,761 10 42,452 181,802 12,351 180,255 1,37* Total 15,895,540 10,431,750 1,051,159 TBADE of AUSTRIA with FOREIGN COUNTRIES, 1833-1850. Yrmr. Import. Export. Total. 1831 6,880,911 7,949,083 14,830,028 1832 7,902,348 8,922,147 16,824,496 1833 8,146,572 9,237,017 17,383,590 1834 8,146,1(15 8,803,931 U.,950,097 1835 9,144,532 8,890,322 18,031,855 1836 9,855,358 9 755,433 19,610,792 1837 9.734/.3S 9,200,950 18.935,588 1838 10.305,79 10,548,266 20,854,035 1839 10,313,013 10,711,573 21,024,587 1840 11,118,687 10,850,869 21,909,556 18 ll 10,588,939 11,232,034 21 8)0,964 1812 11,065,775 10.855,906 21,921,681 1843 11,142,085 10,411,395 21,553,481 1844 11.448.475 10,961,782 22,410,257 18*5 12,200,847 11,379,258 23,580,106 1846 12,674,223 10,582,142 23,256. 366 1*47 12,799,793 11,220,807 24,020.601 1818 8,311,149 4,636.192 13,007,342 1819 8,807,694 5,912,602 1 1,~50,296 1850 15,895,540 10,484,750 26,380,290 Roth the exportation of wine, and the importation of raw cotton, have greatly increased of late years, the latter being, in amount, nearly twice what it was in 1831. In timber, a similar improvement has taken place. The average annual exports between 1831 and 1840 was to the amount of about 250,000 ; in 1844 it amounted to 427,000. This branch of trade suffers greatly from a want of suitable means of trans port, and, until these are obtained, one of the most important sources of the national wealth must remain comparatively un available. In the iron trade, there has been an improvement during the last 20 years, equal nearly to 400 per cent. ; and on coals to 700 per cent. The exports, again, of linen goods, linen yarn, and flax, show a gradual falling off, the result of the advance of the cotton manufactures. The decrease, how ever, is limited chiefly to fine goods. In the regular increase in the importation of dye-stuffs, we have a marked indication of the progress of industry. The quantities of indigo and woad imported in 1844 were nearly one-third more than in 1840 and previous years, and in dye-woods the increase was about as much. The woollen manufactures of Austria are also im proving, and the exports of the finer description of goods in creasing. Nor do the imports of foreign wool indicate any falling off in the home produce, it being a coarse material from Russia and Turkey for the manufacture of cloths for the poorer classes. The following table exhibits a comparative view of the total imports and exports of the empire in the years 1847 and 1850, and at the same time shows the chief localities from which they come or to which they are sent : S. Germany Imports from Exports to 1847. 1,410,050 ],762, 150 571,900 1,590,410 1,432,560 227,860 486,660 76,560 52,530 3,030,360 1,660,600 498,080 1,549,470 2,254,050 1,386,450 1,884,320 1,924,330 311,650 361,490 99,120 123,210 3,554,210 1,616,430 829,810 1847. 1,410,910 1,756,290 761,750 241,450 243,430 1,254,030 1,237,360 8,107,660 185,110 1,147,010 548,950 325,530 1850. 1,111,970 1,356,290 752,880 168,210 207,240 1,189,890 1,195,650 1,978,690 185,540 1,445,310 531,720 561,360 Prussia Poland Russia. . . . Turkey Italy Switzerland Fiuine Trieste Venice Other coasts Total 12,799,720 15,895,540 11,220,830 10,481,750 IMPORTS and EXPORTS i 1844, from and to each Province. Imports. Exports. Austria, Lower 2,110,300 1,210,200 Upper 291,600 493,900 Btyria,Caruithia,Cariiiola, Littoral 857,300 Tv rol 555,600 Bohemia 1,608,900 Moravia and Silesia 417,400 Galuia 612,900 Lombardy 1,735,600 Venice 1,580,400 Hungary and Tnuwylvaflia 1,460,500 , 447,700 1,913,900 229,700 955,100 2,919,700 457,200 1,538,600 Total 11,448,500 10,961,800 The imports from Great Britain and Ireland include a great variety of articles, the more important of which are refined sugar, cotton manufactures, cotton yarn and twist, woollen goods, fish, &c. A considerable quantity annually enters Austria through Germany ; what reaches it by sea will be seen from the following table : DKCLARED VALUE of the Principal Articles O/BRITISTI and IRISH PRO DUCE and MANUFACTURES, EXPORTED /rom the UNITKU KINGDOM (through the ports on the Adriatic), to AUSTRIA, in 131 to 1850. 1831 619,484 1841 404,392 1832 578,074 1842 431,849 1833 482.231 1843 508,034 1834 626,412 1844 511,452 1^35 681,618 1845 570,522 1836 543,313 1846 751,981 1837 557,958 1847 637.009 1838 723,963 1848 491,525 1839 525,382 1819 658,993 1840 497,407 1850 607,755 To carry on the foreign and internal commerce and trade of the empire, Austria, in 1847, had 5799 vessels of all sizes; to:m. 241,708 ; employing 25,980 men. Of these, upwards of AUSTRIA (EMPIRE) 269 AUSTRIA (EMPIRE) 500 are of large size, handsomely and strongly built. Besides these, there are a great number of lighters employed in load ing and unloading vessels, of which Dalmatia alone has up wards of 2000. The vessels built in 1850 were of larger size for foreign trade, 46 (16,120 tons), large coasters 20 (1456 tons), small coasters 65 (831 tons), and fishing-boats 308 (343 tons). The principal ports of Austria are Trieste, Venice, Chioggia, and Fiume, all in the Adriatic. The vessels that arrived at, and sailed from these ports, in 1844, with their tonnage, was as undernoted : VESSELS entered in AUSTRIAN POETS in 1844. Trieste llovigno Venice Chioggia Hungary, coast ) frontier, Fiume, c &c ) Zara, &c Military frontier... 277,276 6,218 35,082 17,870 5,994 421,783 28,234 4,206 7,283 210,030 39,590 18,687 134,422 4,919 762 7,826 5,133 854,593 31,858 493,306 40,536 362.217 24,905 169,504 130,8?.0 55,078 76,376 VESSELS cleared in 18-14. To Foreign Ports. To Austrian Ports. TOTAL. Vessels. Tons. Vessels. Tons. Vessels. Tons. Trieste 1765 241,829 6,573 244,959 8338 486,818 Korigno 37 2,075 1,985 38,962 2,022 41,037 Venice 683 69,331 3,418 244,497 4,101 313,828 Chioggia 63 3,216 1,534 69,568 1,587 72,784 Hungary, coast ) frontier, Fiume, > 758 67,035 7,231 101,949 7,989 168,984 &c ) Zara, &c 216 22,698 4,824 104,981 5,040 127,679 Military frontier... 288 21,495 2,687 34,682 2,975 56,177 Total 3800 427,679 ^8,252 839,628 32,052 1,267,307 Coins, Weights, and Measures. In Austria, accounts are kept in gulden or florins of 60 kreutzers each, the value of the florin being 2s. sterling. The gold coins are double sovereigns, 2, 13s. id. each; single sovereigns, 1, 6s. 8d.; and half-sovereigns, 13s. 4d. The principal silver coin is the rix-dollar, equal to two florins or 4s. sterling. The copper coin are groschen, grochels, kreutzers, and phennings or hellers. At Trieste, and at all the inland towns of the Austrian dominions, except those of the Lombardo-Venetian kingdom, the imperial dollar of two florins, the florin, and the 20-kreutzer piece, called zwanziger, are the current coins. The Austrian centner, the weight by which all large quanti ties are rated, is 123J Ibs. avoirdupois. The metze (phiral, metzen), the largest dry measure, is somewhat more than the fourth part of an English imperial quarter ; nine metzen making two quarters nearly. The eimer, the most generally used liquid measure, is equal to 14-94 English wine gallons. In long measure, the Vienna foot is equal to 12-45 inches English, the Viennaelle or aune, to 30*66 inches English. In superficial measure, the yoch of land is equal to 6889 English square yards, or 1 acre, 1 rood, 27| poles. Population, Religion, Education, &c. The population of the Austrian empire consists of five distinct races ; the Ger man, Sclavonic, Magyar, Italian, and Wallachian. The re spective numbers of these nations have been estimated as follows : Nations. Sclavonians Germans Magyars Italians Wa To these maybe added Population. 17,033,000 7,285,000 4,800,000 5,183,1100 2,156,000 36,457,000 Total 37,060,000 The Germans, who constitute above one-fifth of the entire population, keep compactly together, occupying the archduchy of Auotria, the N. half of Styria, a part of Carinthia, a small portion of Carniola, the N. part of the Tyrol, and the N. and W. borders of Bohemia. There are, besides, about 1 ,200,000 in the Hungarian provinces. The Austrian population is increasing rapidly. This increase is great in all the provinces, but is most remarkable in Galicia and Dalmatia, being in the first, 1-42 per cent., and in the second, 1-10. As far back as 1827, the average annual increase of the population amounted to 1-193 per cent., or nearly doubling itself in 50 years. The ratio of increase is now much greater. fieligion. The state religion of Austria is the R. Catholic, and next in numbers is the Greek church. Calvinism and Lutheranism are also professed by a large body of the people ; the former mostly in Hungary and Transylvania, the latter in the German provinces, and in Galicia. The civil power exercises supreme control in all ecclesiastical matters, the emperor being in everything but the name head of the church ; and as no sentence of excommunication, or other ec clesiastical edict, can be issued without the sanction of the crown, the Pope s direct authority in Austria is more limited than in some other countries. In 1851, the numbers of the various confessions were as follows : Roman Catholics 2?,090,044 Greek Catholics 3,4.^,1 H Greek, not united 2,742,U55 Protest iintg, Augsburg Coiilessiou 1,151,041 Protestants, Helvetic Confession Unitarians 46,020 Oti.er sects 9,695 Jews 835,196 Education. The educational establishments of Austria are divided into eight classes: 1, universities; 2, academies, including high, special, and art schools ; 3, lyceums ; 4, theo logical institutions; 5, philosophical institutions; 6, gym nasiums ; 7, particular institutions ; 8, people s schools. The last, as forming the foundation of the whole system, fall first to be considered. In their nature they come near to our idea of parochial schools, every parish of the empire, almost with out exception, containing one. They are divided into high schools (Haupt schulen), and elementary schools (Trivial und Madchen schulen}. The former amount to 293, the latter to 17,511, being the whole schools of this class throughout the empire, with the exception of those of Hungary, Transylvania, and the military frontiers, for which there are no returns. In the elementary schools, the education is strictly national. It consists only of the most necessary branches ; and every in dividual between the ages of six and twelve, male and female, without distinction of rank or creed, is understood to be re ceiving it. To insure this, accurate registers are kept of all the children who have arrived at the school age, and the priest and local functionaries of each parish are enjoined to see to their attendance. By the registers of 1842, the number of children of the school age was 2,595,563, and the actual attendance throughout the empire (still with the exceptions above-mentioned) was 2,273,453. Here the education ceases to be compulsory, but all for whom a superior or professional education is required are amply provided by the other classes of educational establishments. The leading statistics belonging to each class are given in the following Table : Universities Academies Lyceums Theological Institutions Philosophical Institutions.... Gymnasiums Particular Institutions People s, or National Schools Number. 9 37 31 77 78 283 1,428 17,511 419 427 817 348 303 1,842 4,420 37,233 15,794 8,747 5,511 56,903 53,233 2,273,453 66,941 34,018 Hospitals. Out of the 63 cities and principal towns of Austria, 21 possess foundling-hospitals, with lying-in estab lishments attached. The number of foundlings received into these hospitals in 1833 was 14,897, and in 1840, 17,410. From 1821 to 1840 there were in public keeping 986,345 children, with a yearly increase of numbers. The number of foundlings claimed is very small proportionally. At Laibach, 242 only were sought back in the course of 81 years, out of 5302 foundlings. In the Prague hospital, 2309 only were sought back from 1822 to 1841, out of 87,341 foundlings. In Milan, the proportion sought back was much greater, indeed remarkable, when the other cases are considered ; it was 7623 out of 20,147 foundlings, or considerably more than a third. AUSTRIA (EMPIRE) 270 AUSTRIA (EnriKE) Government, Revenue, Army, and Navy. The whole legis lative authority is vested in the emperor, who exercises supreme control in all the provinces, excepting Hungary and Transylvania. But a constant tendency on the parts of the various states to resume their independence, and maintain their respective national distinctions, has the efl oct of temper ing the exercise of this control, and thereby preventing what has been lately threatened the dismemberment of the empire. The provincial states, whose business it is to receive and register the laws framed by the Emperor on financial matters, and to allocate or apportion the amount of supplies to be con tributed by the different districts, meet once a year, or oftener if necessary. The executive government acts through coun cils or boards, each having a chancellor, who communicates with the provincial councils and with the cabinet. Hungary and Transylvania have each a separate chancery, and are governed by their own laws ; as are, likewise, the Italian states. The nobles form a separate order in the state, and are so disproportionately numerous as to make the distinction appear ridiculous, the total number of nobility in the empire being no less than 400,000, or one to every 90 inhabitants. Of these there are 259,648 in Hungary alone, or one for every 20 burghers. The privileges and prerogatives of these last are seriously detrimental to the national interests in various respects ; those of the nobles of the other provinces are few and unimportant. The Austrian Government has always been extremely re luctant to give any official account of its financial position or operations ; it is thus difficult to ascertain what these really are. In 1851, the total income was 22, 325,203 ; total expenditure, 27,842,047 ; deficiency, 5,516,846. The national debt, in 1841, was 115,745,042 ; in 1852, 122,376,980. The prin cipal sources of revenue are a land-tax, a tax on consumable articles, customs on goods, and monopolies of salt, tobacco, &c. The numerical strength of the Austrian army on the peace establishment is 400,481, of which 48,842 are cavalry. The war establishment is 589,160. During the last years of the peninsular war, the Austrian army amounted to 650,000 men. The period of service, in all but the Hungarian regiments, is eight years. The military schools of the empire are the academy of engineers in Vienna ; the military academies of Milan, Wiener-Neustadt, and of Waitzen; the military schools of Olmiitz and Gra tz, with a variety of other schools and in stitutions, all having reference to military purposes ; in several of them the pupils are educated at the public expense. The Austrian navy, which is under the management of a naval commandant at Venice, is small, consisting of, in 1852, six frigates, five corvettes, seven brigs, six galliots, with eleven steam-vessels and small craft, and a Danube flotilla of gun boats, having 123 guns and eight howitzers ; the whole force mounting 742 guns. Marine force 3215, staff, artillery, and seamen, with six companies of marine infantry. The chief naval station is Venice, where there is established an academy of naval cadets. Laws, Literature, and Fine Arts. The administration of justice is under the superintendence of the superior ministry of justice, at the head of which there are two presidents. It is divided into two senates, one at Vienna, and one at Verona. All trials are conducted with a degree of secrecy, and those of criminals scandalously protracted; years often elapsing before their trials are brought on, and years more before they are concluded. Sentence of death can be passed after confes sion only; a law which, whatever may be said of its humanity, must have a tendency to defeat the ends of justice. History. After the erection of the German empire in the ninth century by Charlemagne, that prince subdued the district on the S. bank of the Danube, to the E. of the river Ens, and converted it into a military frontier to repel the incursions of the Huns, and other barbarous nations. It was then called Ost-reich, or the East country, from its relative position to Germany, but subsequently obtained the name of Lower Austria, and became the nucleus of the present Austrian empire. The governors of this district or province were appointed by the Emperors of Germany, to whom they were subject, with the title of margrave [German, markgraf lord of the marches], which title was borne by their successors for three centuries after. About the middle of the 12th century, Upper Austria was added to Lower Austria, and the title of margrave merged I into that of Duke. Soon after, Styria came by bequest to the ; Dukes of Austria, when the latter, for the first time, established the ducal residence at Vienna. Hitherto the Dukes of Austria had been of the house of Bamberg; but, in 1246, the male ! branch became extinct, when Rudolph of llapsburg, Emperor I of Germany, one of the ablest princes of his age, vested the , succession to the ducal throne in his son Albert and his [ descendants, and with this prince commenced the llapsburg ! dynasty over Austria. Various accessions of territory by j marriage, purchase, and inheritance, now rapidly increased the extent of the ducal dominions, raising Austria from the rank of a mere province to that of an important state, and giving it a corresponding influence in the councils of Germany. Continuing to extend its limits, Austria finally became so much greater than any other state in the empire, that its Dukes were raised to the dignity of Emperors of Germany, the first so elevated being Albert II., who, in 1438, obtained the imperial crown, which has remained ever since in uninter- : rupted possession of the Hapsburg line of Austrian sovereigns. j In the latter part of the 15th century, Maximilian I., an Emperor of the Austrian line, married the daughter and heiress of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, and by her secured further large accessions to the Austrian dominions, namely, the Netherlands, Tranche Comte", and Artois. In 1521, Ferdinand I. married Anne, sister of Louis, King of Hungary and Bohemia, and succeeded to these states on the death of the latter, which occurred in 1526, at the battle of Mohacz. The vast and continually-increasing power of Austria having excited the jealousy, and her oppressive conduct towards the Protestants, the fears, of the other European nations, a war was the result, from its duration, 1618 to 1648, known as the Thirty Years War. It was a war between the 11. Catholic princes of the empire, with Austria at their head, and Saxony and the Protestant states, aided by Sweden and France. The most distinguished generals of this war were Gustavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, on the part of the Protestants; and Wallenstein, the Austrian, on that of the E. Catholics. The Thirty Years War ended in the treaty of Westphalia, which secured the independence of the different states of the Germanic empire, the free exercise of the Protestant religion, and, for a time, the tranquillity of Europe. In 1740, the male line of the house of Hapsburg was brought I to a close by the death of Charles VI., when the succession devolved on his daughter, Maria Theresa, who, with the aid of English subsidies, successfully repelled attacks on her dominions by Bavaria, Saxony, and France. Regarding j the possession of Silesia, she was less fortunate, however, in | a contest with Prussia, to which it was finally ceded in j 1763, after a war of seven years duration. Maria Theresa was succeeded by her son, Joseph II., a well-meaning and enlightened prince. In 1804, Francis I. assumed the title of hereditary Emperor of Austria, and, two years afterwards, renounced the title of Emperor of Germany. The late Emperor, i Ferdinand I., born April 19, 1793, succeeded his father, I Francis I., March 2, 1835; married February 27, 1831, Anne, daughter of Victor Emmanuel, King of Sardinia. Abdicated, : December 2, 1848, in favour of his nephew, Francis Joseph I , : the present Emperor, who was born on August 18, 1830. The political commotions of 1848, by which the peace and pros- : perity of so many of the nations of Europe were wrecked for a time, extended to Austria, where a predisposition to revolt had long existed previously, being a necessary consequence of the association of the jarring and incongruous elements of j which that empire is composed. In the year above named, a spark from the revolutionary fires of France ignited the com bustible materials, and in a short time Austria was in a blaze. Lombardy revolted. The Austrians were driven out of Milan, Venice, and many other towns, by their disaffected inhabitants, who subsequently formed an alliance with Charles Albert, King of Sardinia, who then invaded the Austrian territory at the head of a large army ; and for a time victory seemed to favour the Italians. In the following year, however, both the insurgents and their Sardinian ally were repeatedly defeated by the Austrian forces under Marshal Radetzky, and Lombardy was again brought under the Austrian sway. Taking advantage of this state of things, Hungary also came forward with a demand for entire independence, assuming, at the same time, that supremacy on her own account over Croatia and Sclavonia, which the two latter had hitherto yielded to her AUSTRIA (ARCHDUCHY) 271 AUSTRIA (ARCHDUCHY) merely as proxy for the monarchy. Austria resisted the demand, as threatening the dismemberment of the empire, when a short but sanguinary war was the consequence, which terminated in favour of the monarchy. This result, however, was owing, in part at least, to judicious concession, as well as to superiority in arms, as the following heads of the new con stitution promulgated at Vienna, March 7, 1849, sufficiently show: Granted Full enjoyment of political and religious liberty ; science and scientific instruction free ; the general education of the people to be provided for by public institu tions ; every one to have free expression of opinion ; the press to be relieved from censorship ; the right of petitioning to belong to every one ; citizens to have the right to assemble and to form associations if the object be lawful ; individual liberty guaranteed ; a man s domicile inviolable ; the secrecy of private correspondence to be held sacred. (Miiller s Stat- istisches Jarlvrbucli; Paton s Servia ; Thompson s Austria; Foreign Quarterly Review ; Annual Register ; Almanack de Gotha ; Lyell s Geology ; Parliamentary Papers.} AUSTRIA (THE ARCHDUCHY OF). The archduchy of Austria, or Austria Proper, is the nucleus around which has grown the vast empire known as the Austrian dominions. In extent it is comparatively small, its area being only 10,909 geo. sq. m. ; while the area of the entire Austrian dominions is estimated at 195,662 geo. sq. m. It is bounded, N. by Bohemia and Moravia, S. by Salzburg and Styria, E. by Hungary, and W. by Bavaria; and is comprised between lat. 47 28 and 49 2 N., and Ion. 12 45 and 17 5 E. It is divided into two provinces by the river Ens or Enns, I which, flowing N., falls into the Danube about 2 m. N. the town of Enns, the line of separation N. the Danube running from a point on that river 4 m. W. Ips, N. W. to the Bohemian frontier. The province W. of the Enns, also called Austria above the Enns or Upper Austria [O/ierosterreich], has Linz for its capital ; the W. boundary is formed by the Inn ; area, 3485 geo. sq. m. The province E. of the Enns, also called Austria below the Enns, or Lower Austria [Unter- or Nieder- osterreich], has for its capital Vienna, the capital also of the empire ; area, 7424 geo. sq. m. E. boundary N. of the Danube, the river March ; and S., the river Leitha, separat ing it from Hungary. Both provinces are mountainous, and abound in beautiful and romantic scenery. The entire vale of the Danube, from Passau to Vienna, a distance of not less than 130 m., presents a continued series of the most pictur esque views, equal, it has been asserted, to those on the far- famed lUiine ; while the scenery on the Enns, and several of the other streams, has been considered but little, if at all in ferior. The confines of the archduchy, on the S., are marked by a range of mountains, including a branch of the Noric Alps, which spreads its branches over the whole country S. of the Danube. The N. portions, again, are traversed in all directions by the JjdJimerwald, or Bohemian mountains. Be tween these N. and S. mountain-ranges lie the vale and basin of the Danube, to which both provinces almost exclusively belong. The principal tributaries of the Danube from the S. are the Inn, Traun, Enns, Ips, Traisen, and Leitha all Alpine streams, and remarkable for the green tinge of their waters and numerous smaller streams ; from the N. come the Krems, Kamp, Gb ller, March, &c. ; the last, after the Danube, the largest stream pertaining to the province. The lakes, chiefly confined to Upper Austria, are numerous, and remarkable for the beauty of their scenery. The principal are, the Giniindensee or Traunsee, about 7 m. long, and 2 broad at the broadest part; the Halstattersee, 5 m. long and about 1 broad ; the Attersee, about 12 m. long and 3 broad; the Mondsee; the Lake of St. Gilgen, and an immense number of smaller lakes. Swamps and morasses of great extent are of frequent occurrence. The mineral wealth of the archduchy is not great. In Lower Austria there are some iron mines, while both provinces contain quarries of marble and freestone, slate, alum, and potter s clay ; and coal, alabaster, gypsum, rock- crystal, garnets, beryls, topazes, and emeralds are obtained. A little gold and silver, copper, lead, and iron are found in certain localities ; salt in the hills of Ischil ; and sulphur in various quarters. The whole produce of the mines and fur naces of the archduchy amounted, in 1845, to 69,915. Of this sum, 27,153 is the value of coal, found only in Lower Austria. The climate of the archduchy varies with the level of the different localities, but neither the heat nor the cold is extreme, though the lower province is subject to sudden changes. The average annual temperature in Vienna is about 51 Fan. The maximum heat does not exceed 97, and the winter cold ranges between 1 and 1 2 C below the freezing point. At Linz, the mean heat is 48 28 . The soil is as various as the climate. In the hilly regions there is little cultivation, but compensation is found in valu able forests. Agriculture, however, is on the whole in an improved and improving condition. The cultivation and general management of the vine, however, is still defective. The following table will give an idea of the productive super ficies of the country, and of the extent to which its capabilities have been made available : PRODUCTIVE SUPERFICIES or THE Ancimucm. Arable 3,180,710 Vineyards 114,128 Gardens, &c 1,392,654 Carry forward. ..4,037,492 Brought forward, 4,6^7,492 Pastures 1,094,683 Woodlands 3,222,917 Total. ..9,Ut r,Vj2 AVERAGE OF ANNUAL PRODUCTION OF THE GRAIN. Wheat Maize and KM:... Qrs. . 41 9,708 .1.048,603 Cany forward... 2,058,311 Brought forward, 2,0:,8,311 Barley 504,; <J9 Oats 1,099,339 Total... 4,202,449 Throughout the territory, fruits and kitchen vegetables of all sorts are produced in great abundance, and of excellent quality. In Lower Austria, a considerable quantity of wine is produced, especially in the hilly districts around Vienna, where the quality is much superior to that obtained from the vineyards on the plains. Flax is cultivated to some extent; and, in Upper Aus tria, hops also. The valley of the Enns, and the plain of Tulla on the Danube, are the most fertile tracts, both yielding most luxuriant crops of corn. The woods and forests consist chiefly of beech, oak, maple, linden, elm, alder, pine, and fir. In Upper Austria, where pastures abound, the rearing of cattle is general ; and the horses bred in the S.W. parts of the pro vince, are noted for their size. The numbers of horned cattle, horses, and sheep, in both provinces, in 1842, was Oxen 200,104 I Horses 119,123 Cows 599,522 | Sheep 839,128 In the mountainous regions goats abound. The lynx, wolf, and bear are also met with. Foxes, stags, deer, marmots, polecats, squirrels, martens, hares, and wild fowl, are numer ous. The lakes and rivers are well stocked with fish. The commercial resources of the archduchy, and the activity and enterprise of its inhabitants, are greater, perhaps, than those of any of the other dominions of the empire ; Lower Austria and Lombardy, with little more than a tenth of the population of the whole Austrian territory, engrossing about a third of its entire trade. Lower Austria, however, is partly indebted for this result to the possession of Vienna, the capi tal, and the largest, the most populous, and perhaps, also, the greatest manufacturing city of the empire. The quantity of spirits annually distilled in the archduchy is very considerable, being no less than 1.180,315 imperial gallons ; of which rather more than the half is made in Upper Austria. To produce this quantity of spirits, there are 7326 distilleries, but most of these are on a very small scale. The quantity of wine produced annually, amounts to 24,896,659 imperial gallons, the produce almost entirely of Lower Austria, neither the climate nor the soil of Upper Austria being favourable to the vine. There are, in Lower Austria, seven sugar-refineries, and three manufactories of sugar from beet-root. Both Austrias produce considerable quantities of iron and wool. In 1845, the amount of wool was 4,446,000 Ibs. The produce of iron in the same year was small, not much exceeding 3000 tons ; the greater part from Upper Austria. The manufacture of linen, though it has suffered greatly by the progress of the cotton manufac tures, is still prosecuted to a considerable extent. Spinning machinery has been lately introduced into the country ; but flax is still spun almost exclusively by the hand, and forms a principal employment of the inhabitants of the mountainous districts. The quantity of linen manufactured in 1845, was 290,000 pieces of 30 ells each; value, 150,000; of which AUSTRIAN ITALY 272 AUTUN quantity Upper Austria produced 90,000 pieces, and Lower Austria 200,000. The cotton manufacture is also con siderable, and is rapidly increasing. In Lower Austria there are 40 factories, with about 385,000 spindles ; in Upper Aus tria, four factories, with 20,000. Silk is likewise manufac tured to a large extent, especially in Vienna ; to a more limited extent in Neustadt and some other towns. The woollen manufactures have not been so prosperous ; although there are some large factories at Vienna, Rittersdorf, and other places ; the supply, however, is not equal to the home consumption. In Upper Austria, the saltworks afford employment to several thousand persons, the produce amounting annually to about 46,000 tons. The other manufactures are laces, iron ware, and cutlery ; tools, copper-ware, brasswork, jewellery, articles of wood, leather, porcelain, paper, glass, chemicals, beer, and spirits. In Lower Austria are numerous tanneries, bleachfields, and also printfields, at which 254,000 pieces of woollen and cotton goods are printed annually. The exports of Upper Austria consist principally of salt, timber, wood for fuel, yarns, linens, woollens, carpets, ironware, tools, cutlery, flax, cotton yarn, cotton stockings, cheese, beer, earthenware, j mill and polishing stones, marble, and considerable quantities j of fruit. The trade of the archduchy in 1845, was as follows : Upper Austria 1,976,065 1,329,707 Lower Austria 306.S48 388,131 Total... 2,282,413 1,717,838 The internal traffic is much facilitated by the excellence of the roads, the navigable rivers and canals, the steam naviga tion of the Danube, and by the introduction of railways, of which there are three in the archduchy. Education is an object of anxious solicitude to the Govern ment, which provides gratis instruction for all who cannot afford to pay for it. To secure an ample supply of teachers, numerous normal schools have been established in various parts of the country, particularly in Vienna, which furnishes from 1600 to 1700 teachers annually. Throughout the whole archduchy, every child must go to school for a certain number of years. A more questionable law enjoins that no person shall marry, or set up in any trade, who cannot produce a written certificate of attendance at school. The inhabitants of Austria Proper are almost all Germans, and are an active, industrious, and good-natured people, living easily and contentedly, with a reasonable command, not only of the necessaries, but of the enjoyments of life. The peasantry, in general, are in comfortable circumstances ; are kind, cheer ful, and affable, simple in their manners, and perfectly con tented with their lot. Pop. in 1845, Upper Austria, 851,288 ; Lower Austria, 1,415,695; together, 2,266,993; of which, per haps, 50,000 or 60,000 are settlers from other parts of the Austrian dominions, and foreigners ; the remainder are native- born Germans. AUSTRIAN ITALY. See LOMBARDY AUTERIVE, a tn. France, dep. Haute-Garonne (Langue- doc), 18 m. S.E. Toulouse, r. bank, Ariege, which is here navigable, and is crossed by a bridge of brick. The chief occupation of the inhabitants is in making army-clothing. Pop. 2230. There are other three places of the same name in France. AUTEUIL, a vil. France, dep. Seine, at the entrance of the Bois de Boulogne, within 1 m. of the W. barrier, and pro perly only a suburb of Paris. It has several manufactories, chiefly of printed stuffs, and soap ; a considerable tannery, with some breweries, distilleries, &c. A great number of elegant country mansions are in the neighbourhood. Auteuil is cele brated as the residence, in former times, of many literary per sons of distinction, among whom are the poet Boileau, whose country-seat is still shown, and Moliere, whose house has been converted into a rustic temple, containing not only his bust, but also those of Boileau, Fontaine, Corneille, and Racine. Pop. 3313. Two other places in France bear the same name. AUTHIE. 1, A vil. France, dep. Somme, 7 m. E. Doullens. It has numerous manufactories of nails, and one of cotton yarn. Pop. 946. 2, A small river, France, which rises near the above village ; for about 20 m. forms the bound ary between the deps. Somme and Pas de Calais, and, alter a course of about 55 m., falls into the English Channel. 3, A vil., dep. Calvados (Normandy), not far from Caen. AUTHION, a river, France, rising in dep. Indre-et-Loirn, flows W., and falls into the Loire on its r. bank, after a course of about 66 m., for 18 of which, from Beaufort to the Loire, it is navigable. AUTHORPE, par. Eng., co. Lincoln; 1390 ac. Pop. (1841) 117. AUTOL, a tn. Spain, in Old Castile, prov. Logrono, 8 m. S. by W. Caluhorra, on the side of a limestone hill, called Santiago, 1. bank, Cidaco ; and having a parish church, prison, hospital, and school. Pop. 2740. AUTOLIN DE VILLANEUVA, a vil. Spain, in Asturia, prov. Oviedo, 2 m. N. Navia ; on the sea-shore, at the em bouchure of the Navia. It has a large parish church, an agricultural population, and is celebrated for salmon and other fish. Pop. 2500. (Madoz.) AUTUN [anc. Bibracte or Augustodunum] , a city, France, dep. Saone-et-Loire (Burgogne), cap. ofarrond.; picturesquely situated on a hill, at the foot of a lofty range of well-wooded mountains, 1. bank, Arroux, 28 m. E.N.E. Chalons-sur-Saone. It is the seat of a bishop, suffragan to the Archbishop of Lyons, and has courts of primary jurisdiction, and of com merce; also a communal college, two libraries, a collection of pictures and antiquities, a society of agriculture, sciences, and arts ; two hospitals, and two ecclesiastical seminaries, with other institutions. The numerous remains of antiquity in and around Autun, render it a very interesting place. Part of the ancient walls are still standing, and are remarkable for their massiveness and solidity. Of the gates built by the Romans, two remain, the Porta Senonica, now called the Porte d Arroux, surmounted by a gallery of the Corinthian order, and covered with ornaments of exquisite workmanship, in good preservation ; and the Porta Lingonensis, now the Porte Saint Andre. A tower is also pointed out as having formed part of a temple of Minerva. In the old parts of the town are the ruins of an amphitheatre, and of several temples, the principal of which appears to have been that of Janus, a square building, of which three sides remain. The modern city is divided into three parts, the highest, the chateau or castle, being supposed to occupy the site of the ancient capitol. The cathedral of St. Lazare, a Gothic edifice, founded in the llth ATJTUN CATHEDRAL, N >rth Side From Ch^puy, Ca century, has a fine lofty spire, 325 ft. high, and a choir richly adorned with marble sculptures. Above the principal portal is a beautiful zodiac; while the tympanum exhibits a curious representation of the resurrection, and final judgment. In the square adjoining the cathedral is an Ionic fountain of great beauty. The quarter called La Ville contains the prin cipal open space or square, named the Champ de St. Ladre, AUVEEGNE 273 AYA which is planted with trees, and forms an agreeable promenade. There are several other public walks, particularly the Champ do Mars, a spacious square in the middle of the town, elevated upon a terrace. The houses of the third quarter, the Marcheau or Martiale Forum, of the ancient city, are mean and ill built, and the streets narrow and dirty. The river here is crossed by two bridges, d Arroux and St. An- doche. Manufactures: carpets, serges, cotton velvet, cloth, hosiery, and delft- ware. During the first Revolution there were here a cannon-foundry, and manu factories of other kinds of arms. In the neighbourhood are some tanneries and paper-mills. Autun is the chief, if not the only place in France where a species of fabric called tapis de Marchau, used for bed-coverlets, horse-cloths, &c., is made. The principal trade is in grain, wood, wine, hemp, leather, horses, and cattle. In the vicinity are iron and lead mines ; and not far distant, the valuable coal-pits of Epinac and Creuzot. At the latter place are extensive iron furnaces. A kind of gray granite, and potter s clay, are also found in the surrounding district. Autun was a place of great extent and im portance, even before the conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar, who makes frequent mention of it under the name of Bibracte, capital of the _<Edui. Talleyrand was Bishop of Autun at the breaking out of the great Revolution. Pop. (1846), 9098. AUVEKGNE, a prov. Central France, now merged into deps. Cantal and Puy-de-Dome, and an arrond. of Haute Loire ; but still deserving of separate notice, because of its frequent use as a geographical boundary, particularly in the numerous works, both popular and scientific, to which its interesting geological phenomena have given birth. The part of Auvergne to which these works specially refer, is an extensive plain, usually known by the name of the Limagne, stretching from S. to N. about 50 m., with an average breadth of 20 m., and an altitude above the sea of 1200 ft., and bounded, E. and W., by two parallel ranges of gneiss and granite, about 3000 ft. high. The surface of the plain con sists of alluvial deposits, resting on a substratum of limestone, and is broken by numerous hills, which appear to have origin ally formed part of the same substratum, and been upheaved by volcanic agency. The best proof of this is in the fact that many of them are surmounted by a crest or cupping of basalt. To the W. of the plain the limestone disappears, and is suc ceeded by a plateau of granite, which, rising 1600 ft. above the valley of Clermont, must be 3000 ft. above the sea. This plateau forms the base of a long chain of volcanic cones and domes, which, to the number of 70, form a zone of nearly 20 m. by 2 m., and vary in altitude from 500 to 4000 ft. The highest of them, Puy-de-Dome, is 4000 ft. above the sea. It is entirely composed of volcanic matter, and has a regular crater 1000 ft. in circumference, and 300 ft. deep. The whole of the cones present the same general character well-defined craters, enclosed by regular cones, on whose sides the lava currents may be traced as easily as on those of Vesuvius. (Diet, de la France; Lyell s Geology; Mantell s Wonders of Geology.} AUVERS-LE-HAMON, a tn. and coin. France, dep. Sarthe (Maine), r. bank, Trulon, 22 m. S.E. Lard; on an acclivity, and built in the form of a square, the sides of which are oc cupied by houses, while an ancient church rises in its centre. The district around is watered by the Trulon, the Erve, and the Vaige. From the margin of those streams abrupt preci pices arise, some of them crowned with the remains of old forts, and others of them in the form of fantastic peaks, which have a very picturesque effect. Pop. 2233. Other three villages in France have the name of AUVEKS. AUVILLARDS. 1, Atn. France, dep. Tarn-et-Garonne (Armagnac), 22 m. W. Montauban; on a height, 1. bank, Garonne, with a port, and considerable trade. Manufac tures: porcelain, earthenware, woollen, hosiery, and hats. Pop. 1742. 2, Auvillards-sur-Saone, a vil., dep. Cote-d Or (Burgundy). Pop. 521. VOL. I. AUXERRE [anc. Antissiodimtm], a city, France, cap. dep. Yonne, 96 m. S.E. Paris, on the side of a hill, 1. bank, Yonne, which here begins to be navigable. The situation is remarkably fine, and the air pure, but the town itself is in general ill built and dirty, with narrow, crooked streets. Its churches constitute its chief attraction. The cathedral, dedi- - AUXERRE. From I/i France Pitroresque. cated to St. Etienne, is a splendid Gothic structure, though still unfinished. Its interior is finely proportioned, and the windows, of stained glass, are exceedingly beautiful. The old episcopal palace, once regarded as among the finest of the kind in France, is now the Hotel de Prefecture. The abbey of St. Germain contains some curious crypts, one below another ; in the lower are tombs of the early Counts of Auxerre. Auxerre is the seat of a court of assizes, and of courts of primary jurisdiction and commerce. It has a communal col lege or high school, a museum of antiquities and natural his tory, a primary normal school, a public library containing 25,000 volumes and nearly 200 MSS., an agricultural society, a theatre, a large foundling-hospital, baths, and a botanical garden. Over a gatehouse in the market-place is a curious old clock-tower. The principal manufactures are of woollen cloths, serges, druggets, hosiery, cotton yarn, hats, wine casks, blankets, violin strings, and earthenware ; leather, red and yellow ochre, rouge, called de Prusse, and chalk. It has some commerce in hemp, leather, staves, bricks, and cattle ; but the chief trade is in wood, and in the wines of the district, of which about 120,000 tuns are annually sent along the Yonne and Seine to Paris and Normandy. Of these wines the most noted is the white Chablis. Auxerre was the ancient capital of the Auxerrois or county of Auxerre, which now constitutes the principal part of the arrondissement of that name. Pop. (1846), 11,890. AUXONNE [Latin, Asona, Aussona], a tn. France, dep. Cote-d Or (Burgundy), 18 m. E.S.E. Dijon, 1. bank, Saone, here crossed by a beautiful bridge of 23 arches. At one ex tremity of the bridge is a bank or causeway, about 1 m. long, to give access to it during inundations of the river. Auxonne is a fortified place of the fourth class, well built, the seat of a court of commerce, and has a communal college, and a public library containing 4000 volumes ; a castle, an arsenal, a cannon-foundry, and an artillery school has been formed on the ramparts. Manufactures : woollen stuffs, serges, muslins, and hardware. Trade: grain, flour, fruit, wine, brandy, iron, wood, and coal. Auxonne was the capital of a small sovereignty, separate from the duchy and county of Burgundy, the sovereigns of which took the title of Sires d Auxonne. Pop. 2944. AUXY-LE- CHATEAU, a small tn. France, dep. Pas de Calais (Artois), in a marshy country on the Authie, which intersects it, 30 m. S.W. Arras. It has an old parochial church, tanneries, and four fairs. Pop. 2342. AVA [Burmese, Angwa or Aingwa Fish-pond; Sanscrit, Ratanapura City of gems], a city, Burmah, of which it was formerly cap., 1. bank, Irrawady, about 1 m. S.W. Amarapura, | also formerly the cap. ; lat. 21 51 N. ; Ion. 95 58 E. It 35 AVAL 274 AVENDALE is divided into an inner and outer town, each surrounded by a brick wall and fosse ; the circumference of the whole being about 5J m. The houses are, in general, mere huts thatched with grass ; but a few, belonging to persons of distinction, are of somewhat superior construction. The outer town is but thinly sprinkled with these wretched habitations, and some large quarters are entirely destitute of buildings. The inner town, about 1 m. in circumference, and forming the N.E. angle of the city, is chiefly occupied by the palace, finished in 1824 ; the Rung-dhau or hall of justice ; the Lut-dhau or council-chamber ; the arsenal ; and the houses of a few persons attached to the court. Ava contains also some dilapidated monasteries. The bazaars, including one without the Avails, are eleven in number ; and were at one time well stocked with native commodities, goods from China and Laos, and British cottons, woollens, glass, and earthenware. The pop. in 1826 amounted to 25,000 or 30,000, but is now much less. An earthquake, in 1839, destroyed every substantial building in the city. Since this event, the seat of government has been removed to Monchobo. AVAL, the largest of the Bahrein Islands (which see], AVALON, a large peninsula, forming the S.E. part of Newfoundland, having Trinity Bay on the N., and Placentia Bay on the S., separated only by an isthmus of about 4 m. broad. The bays of St. Mary and Trepassey on the S., and Conception on the N., divide the district into three lesser penin sulas. It has also several smaller bays, with many excellent harbours. The Great Bank of Newfoundland lies E. of it. AVALLON [anc. Aballo], a tn. France, dep. Yonne, cap. arrond., 26 m. S.E. Auxerre ; romantically situated in a fer tile country, 1. bank, Cousin, which here takes the name of the Voisin, on a hill of red granite, along the brow of which runs a broad terrace-walk, planted with lime-trees, more than 500 ft. above the bed of the river. It has well-built houses, broad and clean streets, an hospital, concert-hall, and parish church, an old edifice with a curious Romanesque portal ; likewise a court of commerce, a coimnunal college, and an agricultural society ; a theatre, and public baths. Manufac tures : woollen cloth, casks, staves, mustard, and paper. It has also some tanneries and fulling-mills, and a trade in grain, wine, cattle, and coals. Pop. 4896. AVARES (KHAXAT OF), a political division of E. Cir- cassia, on the N. slope of the Caucasus, between the rivers Aksai and Koisu ; area, 2287 m. It is mountainous and sterile, inhabited by the Avares, a tribe of Lesghians, governed by a khan, and is nominally subject to Russia. The Avares are Mussulmans, and live by the chase and by plunder. To prevent their predatory incursions on the surrounding tribes, an annual sum is paid to the khan by Russia, and the rank of lieutenant-general is given him. Pop. 31,000. AVATCHA, a river, Kamtchatka. rising in a meadow at the foot of a volcano of same name ; flowing E., and falling into the Pacific Ocean at the town of Petropavlosk, on the Bay of Avatcha. Its whole course is about 30 m. AVATCHINSKAIA, a volcano, Kamtchatka ; in lat. 53 15 N.; Ion. 158 50 E.; height, 9055 ft. The last eruption of this mountain occurred in 1827. AVE, a small river, Belgium, rising in prov. Luxem bourg, and, after passing Lomprez and Wellin, disappearing in a calcareous mountain, under which it continues its course for nearly half a mile. After emerging, it passes Ave and Auffe, and joins the Lesse. AVEBURY, a vil. and par. England, co. Wilts. The village is 6 m. W. by N. Marlborough, and consists of one principal street, badly kept ; houses principally poor-looking cottages, built of stone from the neighbouring downs; supply of water abundant. The parish church is a fine old struc ture of Norman architecture. There are also a Baptist chapel and an Independent chapel in the village, a boarding-school, and a national school. The village occupies part of the site of a place of worship belonging, it is supposed, to the ancient Britons. It was enclosed by an extensive ditch and rampart, I including double circles of large unhewn stones. On the neighbouring downs are numerous barrows or tumuli, one of which, called Silbury Hill, covers an area of upwards of 5 ac., | and is 2027 ft. in circumference at the base, and 120 at the summit, with a perpendicular height of 170 ft. There are numerous other memorials of antiquity of a similar kind in the vicinity. Area of par. 5450 ac. Pop. (1841), 751. AVEIRO, or BRAGAN<?A NOVA, a seaport tn. Portugal, prov. Douro, on a bay of same name, formed by the estuary of the Vouga, 35 m. S. Oporto; lat. 40 38 24" N.; Ion. 8 37 45" E. (R.) Aveiro is situated in a flat, marshy coun try, which renders it very unhealthy. The old walls still re main, but the suburbs extend beyond them. It is a bishop s see, and contains four parishes, a cathedral, and four other churches, six monasteries, a college, and an hospital. The houses are small, and the people generally in poor circum stances. Aveiro has manufactures of earthenware, and salt is made in great quantities from the lagoons in the neigh bourhood; but the quality is reckoned inferior to that pro duced at Setubal and Lisbon. The fishery is active, and the province is supplied with sardines chiefly from Aveiro; and besides salt and fish, a thriving trade is carried on in oil, wine, oranges, &c. The oysters caught off the coast are reputed the best in Portugal. The entrance to the mouth of the river is marked by two lofty stone pyramids, each 70 ft. high. The port is wide and safe, but a shifting bar at the entrance renders the aid of a pilot indispensable. During spring-tides there are 15 ft. water on that bar; at neaps, from 7J to 12. Pop. 4094. AVEIRO, a tn. Brazil, prov. Para, pleasantly situated in a fertile country, admirably adapted for the growth of cacao and cotton ; r. bank, Tapajos, which is here navigable, and 70 m. above its embouchure in the Amazon. The inhabit ants are chiefly Indians. AVELEY, par. Eng. Essex; 3920 ac. Pop. (1841), 849. AVELGIIEM, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. W. Flanders, dist. of, and 8 m. E. Courtray, containing salt works, dyeworks, breweries, tobacco-factories, and oil and flour mills. Pop. 5295. AVELLA, a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, dist. of, and 5 m. N.E. Nola; delightfully situated, and commanding a view extending to Naples. It has four parish churches. Close by are the ruins of the Roman Abella, celebrated by Virgil for its natural products. Pop. 6030. AVELLINO, a tn. Naples, cap. prov. Principato Ultra, dist. Avellino, 29m. E. Naples; situated at the foot of Mount Vergino, near the Sabbato. It is a fortified place, and the seat of a bishop, suffragan to Benevento, and of a civil and criminal tribunal, and contains a mean-looking cathedral, three parish churches, and a royal college. It stands on the declivity of a hill ; the houses are in general well built, but the streets, though wide, are exceedingly irregular. It has a square, adorned with an obelisk, and possesses several agreeable promenades; but the public edifices, with the excep tion of a granary, are of the poorest description. It has some manufactories of maccaroni, of sausages, long celebrated; and of coarse cloth ; also, several dyeworks, much favoured by the plentiful supply of soft water ; it is likewise famed for its confectionery, and carries on an active trade in grain. The neighbourhood abounds in chestnuts and hazel-nuts. The latter were much prized by the Romans, and are still cele brated under the name of Avellino nuts. The town suffered a good deal by earthquakes in 1694 and 1731. At a short distance is the famous Val di Garzano, the site of the Furcm, Caudincc, where the Samnites compelled a Roman army to lay down their arms and pass singly under the yoke, B.C. 321. Pop. 15,586. AVENBURY, par. Eng. Hereford; 3140 ac. Pop. 382. AVENCHES [anc. Aventicum], a small tn. Switzerland, can. Vaud, about 3 m. S. the Lake of Morat, and 30 m. N.E. Lausanne, cap. of a detached dist., surrounded by Frei burg and the Lake of Neufchatcl. The ancient walls, which had a circuit of several miles, may still be traced. A Roman tower, a Corinthian column, 37 ft. high, the remains of an amphitheatre, an aqueduct and baths, numerous inscrip tions, and specimens of Mosaic work, are the chief relics of the former splendour of Aventicum. About a tenth of the ancient city is occupied by the modern town or village of Avenches, consisting of a few streets, and having an old church, a castle, and an institution for lunatics. The environs are beautiful and fertile. Pop. (Protestants), 1458. AVENDALE, or AVONDALE, a par. Scotland, Lanark, watered by the Avon; area, 32,000 ac., of which more than one-half is under cultivation. Drumclog, where Graham of Claverhouse was defeated by the Covenanters, in 1 679, is in this parish. It contains a considerable town, called Strathaven AVENING 275 AVEYEON or Straven, by which name the parish also is sometimes designated. Pop. (1841), 6180. AVENING, vil. and par. Eug. Gloucester, the former on an acclivity; area of par. 46GO ac. Pop. (1841), 2227. AVENWEDDE, a vil. Prussia, pro v. Westphalia, gov. of, and about 32 m. S.S.W.Minden, on the Dolke; with woollen and linen manufactures. Pop. 3322. AVENZA, or LAVENZA, a small tn., N. Italy, in the united duchies of Modena and Massa-Carrara, on the Gulf of Genoa, 1. bank, Avenza, near its mouth ; lat. 44 5 N. ; Ion. 10 C 5 E. It was at one time the principal place of shipment for the Carrara marbles ; but in consequence of the gradual elevation of the coast, it is now 1 m. distant from the sea, and therefore no longer a shipping point. There is here a magnificent castle, built by Castruccio degli Interminelli. Avenza is the first town of the duchy of Massa, and the Modenese custom house is stationed here. AVEREEST, a vil. Holland, prov. Overijssel, 13 m. N.E. Zwolle, and 9 m. S.E. Meppel, r. bank, Keest. It has a Calvinistic, a K. catholic church, and a school. Pop. about 1300, chiefly employed in agriculture and cattle-rearing. AVERHAM, par. Eng. Notts ; 2530 ac. Pop. 264. AVERNAKOE, an isl. Denmark, Little Belt, lat. (centre) 55 2 N. ; Ion. 10 17 E. It is of irregular form, about 5 m. long, varying from J to 1 J m. broad, and is separated from Bjonioe by a deep channel ; but from Dreiue and Skaaroe by shallow water, not more than 6 ft. deep. Pop. 350. AVERNO [anc. Avernus], a celebrated lake, Neapolitan States, occupying the crater of an extinct volcano, about 9 m. W. Naples, dist. Pozzuoli, near the Mediterranean. It is between 1 and 2 m. in circumference, of a circular shape, and about 180 ft. deep in some of the deepest places. It is often referred to by the ancient poets, especially by Virgil, by all of whom it is associated with everything gloomy and dismal. In ancient times the lake was surrounded with groves, which, ex cluding a free circulation of air, rendered the place extremely unhealthy, from noxious accumulations of mephitic vapours. The account of Lucretius is, that birds could not fly over it without being suffocated ; and Lyell sees no reason for dis crediting it, though the spot has now become salubrious and cheerful. The groves were cut down by Agrippa during the reign of Augustus, and a communication opened between Averno and the Lucrine lake, which was afterwards almost entirely displaced by an eruption in 1 538, which threw up from the midst of its waters a mountain, now called Monte Nuovo; but the outlet joining it to the Lake of Avemo still remains. On the S.E. bank are the ruins of a temple of Apollo ; and a little further W., the entrance into the subterraneous grotto of the Cumsean sybil. The surround ing heights are now clothed with vines, and retain none of their original gloomy character. It is still, however, resorted to for its vapour-baths, though its vicinity is unhealthy in summer. (Lyell s Geology.} AVEROE, an isl. Norway, off the coast of Eornsdal ; lat. (centre) 62 57 N.; Ion. 7 25 E. AVERRI. See WAKEE. AVERSA, a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, dist. Caserta, 9 m. N. Naples; on a delightful plain, covered with vines and orange-trees. It is a bustling and lively place, spacious, and well built ; the seat of a bishopric, one of the richest in the kingdom ; of a royal governor, and of a tribunal ; and contains nine churches, several convents, a well-conducted foundling hospital, and a lunatic asylum, celebrated for the excellence of its system. Aversa is famed for its almond- cakes, called torrone, which are in great demand in Naples, with which it communicates by a fine broad avenue. Aversa was built in 1020, by Kainalph, a Norman chief. Andreas, of Hungary, was strangled in a convent here by some con spirators, Sept. 8, 1345. Pop. 16,158. AVES ISLANDS, or BIUD ISLANDS.!, An isl., E. coast, Newfoundland; lat. 50 5 N. 2, An isl. 60 m. N.W. Dominica, and 51 W. Guadalupe. 3, A cluster of small barren, rocky islands, Lesser Antilles, about 100 m. E. by S. the Gulf of Venezuela, between the islands of Buen-Ayre and lioques; lat. 11 5y N.; Ion. 07 40 W. (n.) AVESNES, a small fortified tn., of the fourth class, France, dep. Nord (Hainaut), cap. arrond., on the Greater Helpe, 49 m. S.E. Lille. It is the seat of a sub-prefecture, and of a court of primary jurisdiction; and has a communal college or high school, an hospital for old men, and an agri cultural society. The town is in general well built, and has a cathedral, surmounted by a tower, 300ft. high; some court houses, townhall, barracks, and a fountain, in the Place d Armes. It has manufactures of coarse serge, hosiery, and soap, with several tanneries, breweries, brickworks, salt- refineries, and marble saw-works. A considerable trade is carried on in grain, fruit, hops, wood, cattle, ironware, slates, and cheese. Pop. 2827. AVESNES-LES-AUBERT, a tn. France, dep. Nord, 8 m. from Cambray. It has a church, cemetery, and manufactures of cambric, bricks, and oil. Pop. 2871. AVESTA, a tn. Sweden. See AFVESTADT. AVETON-G1FFORD, par. Eng. Devon; 1840 ac. Pop. 1057. AVEYRON [anc. Veronirts\, a rapid river, France, giv ing its name to the dep. Aveyron. It issues from the springs of Veyron, among the Cevennes. Taking a W. direction, it passes lihodez, Belcastel, and Villefranche; and becomes navi gable at Negrepellisse, about 20 m. above its embouchure in the Tarn, into which it falls, after a course of about 130 m., a little above Moissae. Its principal affluent is the Viaur. AVEYRON, a dep., S. of France, formed of the ancient dist. of Rouergue, a subdivision of the prov. of Guienne ; bounded, N. and N.E. by deps. Cantal and Lozere; E. and S.E. by Gard and llerault, which separate it from the Medi terranean ; W. and S. W. by Lot, Tarn-et-Garonne, and Tarn ; between lat. 43 41 and 44 55 N.; and Ion. 2 50 and 3 50 E. ; length, N. to S. about 96 m., breadth, E. to W. 66 ; area, 2,137,664 ac., or 3340 sq. m. It is one of the most mountainous departments of France ; traversed in the E. by branches of the La Margeride range, which unites the moun tains of Auvergne with the Cevennes its boundary on the S.E. Prolongations of the latter, and of the mountains of Cantal, cover the S. and N. parts. One long chain, called the mountains of Aubrac, extends nearly 30 m. in length, from 1. bank, Truyere, to the point where the Lot enters the de partment. These mountains are all of volcanic origin, and contain numerous grottoes and subterranean caves. Between Guiolle and tha village of Naves, they exhibit basaltic co lumns of various forms, and perpendicular rampart-like preci pices of the most striking appearance. A group, called the Leveson, an offshot of the Cevennes, rises between the sources of the Aveyron and the Tarn, and runs N.E. to S.W. throw ing out several branches. Five considerable rivers traverse the department namely, the Aveyron, after which the de partment is named, the Viaur, the Truyere, the Lot, and the Tarn. Of these, the only one navigable within the department is the Lot. The other streams of any consequence are the Dourdon, the Lorgues, and the Dourbie. During winter, which continues more than six months, the snow lies deep upon the mountains, the sides of some of which are covered with vast forests, principally of chestnuts. It is only in the W. that plains of any considerable extent are found. The soil is of three different kinds, varying with the different species of rocks, from the decomposition of which it has been produced a calcareous earth in the limestone district, a rich, friable mould among the volcanic basalts, and generally a poor hungry clay, when primitive schist, quartz, and gneiss prevail. Agriculture is in a very defective state. In field labour, oxen are generally used. Throughout the N. districts, oats and rye are mostly cultivated. In the W. cantons, besides these, a little wheat is raised, but this species of grain is more abundantly grown in the E., where the farms are often so large as to employ 25 yoke of oxen. Barley, maize, and buckwheat are also produced. Altogether, the grain raised is nearly sufficient for the consumption. The extent of arable land is 909,310 ac.; meadows, 303,790 ac.; vine yards, 86,025 ac. Nearly a fourth part is waste land, and the remainder is occupied with forests, orchard and garden grounds, &c. There are few lakes, and no marshes. Tho I wine produced is of inferior quality. In the district of ! Guiolle, cheese of excellent quality is made ; but the best is i produced in the village of Roquefort; it is made from a mix ture of ewe and goat milk, and is considered the finest in I France. The quantity exported is from 30,000 to 36,000 Ibs. I yearly. Considerable attention is paid to sheep-breeding, and I about 1,400,000 Ibs. wool are annually produced. In the more i mountainous localities both siieep and cattle are very inferior. AVEZZANO 276 AVIGNON Mules are reared for export to Spain. "Wolves and foxes abound, and adders, lizards, and other reptiles are numerous. Aveyron is rich in coal, iron, and alum ; the coal mines being among the most valuable in France. They are principally in the neighbourhood of the small town of Aubin, in the district lying between the Lot and the Aveyron. Here are also con siderable ironworks ; and the burning mountain of Fontagnes, the coal of which having accidentally caught fire, has continued burning for centuries. It also possesses copper mines. Ar gentiferous lead, antimony, sulphate of iron, sulphur, fuller s earth, gypsum, and marble, are procured in large quantities. Manufactures : silks, coarse woollen stuffs, common cloths, table-linen, silk thread, hosiery, china-ware, paper, leather, and glass. Some trade is carried on in grain, prunes, and other fruits ; wool, cheese, hams, sheep, and mules ; copper utensils, coal, alum, nails, staves, casks, &c. The inhabitants are, in general, well-behaved and indus trious ; grave in their manners, but still of a cheerful disposi tion. In the greater part of the department, but especially in the district situated between the Lot and the Aveyron, the females begin to work at an early age, and take part in all agricultural labours, however severe. Aveyron is divided into five arronds., 42 cans., and 274 coins. Its cap. is Ehodez, and other principal towns are Milhau, St. Affrique, and Ville- franche. Pop. (1846), 289,661 . (Diet, de la France; French Official Tables.) AVEZZANO, a tn. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra II., cap. dist.. on a beautiful plain near the lake Fucino, about 22 m. S.S.E. Aquila, surrounded by dilapidated walls, and believed to be founded on the ruins of the ancient Alba. It has 10 churches, and a large public square adorned by some hand some buildings, amongst which is a palace belonging to the Colonna family. Pop. 3166. AVIANO [properly PIEVE DI ARKANO], a vil. Venetian Lombardy, gov. Venice, deleg. of, and 30 in. W. from Udiue, cap. of (list. Pop. 5000. AVIEMORE, vil. Scotland, co. Moray, 1. bank, Spey; 25 m. S.E. Inverness. AVIGLIANA, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 20 m. E.S.E. Susa. Manufactures: silk and coarse cloth. Pop. 3000. AVIGLIANO, a tn. Naples, prov. Basilicata, dist. of, and 11 m. N.W. from Potenza, on the brow of a hill, part of which gave way in 1824, in consequence of long-continued rains, and destroyed a portion of the town. It has an elegant collegiate church, several convents, and a royal college. On the pas turage in the neighbourhood, the largest and finest oxen in the kingdom are raised. Pop. 9290. AVIGNON [anc. Avenio], a city, France, cap. dep. Vau- cluse, situated in a valley, 1. bank, Rhone, here broad, deep, and rapid, crossed by a wooden bridge, and also by a bridge of boats; 403m. S.S.E. Paris, and 53 N.N.W. Marseilles; lat. 43 57 N.; Ion. 4 48 38" E. (U It is a very ancient larly from the Doms, a rock which starts up abruptly from the Khone to a height of 180 ft., a fine view is obtained of the rich surrounding country. The town is, upon th whole, well built, of large antique-looking houses; but the streets are narrow, crooked, ill paved, and extremely dirty. Avignon is the seat of an archbishop, and has courts of primary jurisdiction and of commerce ; a college, a primary normal school, a public library of 42,000 volumes, an Athenaeum, a medical library, a museum of natural history, a collection of pictures and anti quities, a botanical garden, and a school of design ; with an agricultural society, and an association called the Academy of Vaucluse. Among its charitable institutions are a subsidiary infirmary of the Hotel des Invalidcs at Paris for old and wounded soldiers, an orphan hospital, and a lunatic asylum. Many of the public edifices possess great interest. The cath edral, called Notre Dame des Dons, a building of great extent, is said to have been originally founded in the first ages of Christianity on the ruins of a heathen temple ; and, after its destruction by the barbarians of the North, was rebuilt by Charlemagne. The richly-sculptured Chapel of the Resurrec tion is considered a masterpiece. Several popes officiated in this cathedral, and Innocent VI., Urban V., and Gregory X I. were consecrated in it. The former palace of the popes, near the cathedral, now used as a barrack and prison, is a vast irre gular Gothic structure, built at different periods, with walls of great thickness and height, and strong towers, some of them 150 ft. high. The chamber of the Inquisition, established here in the 13th century, and several of the atrocious contriv ances to subdue the minds by torturing the bodies of its vic tims, are still shown. The church of the Cordeliers, of which nothing now remains but fragments of the tower and sidewalls, was celebrated for containing the tomb of Petrarch s Laura. The church was destroyed at the Revolution, when the tomb of Laura, with others, was broken open, and the contents scattered to the winds. Of the churches, those of St. Pierre and St. Martial are almost the only two now deserving notice. In the Place d Horloge are the Hotel de Ville, a semi-gothic edifice, originally a palace of the Colonna family ; the princi pal cafe s, and the theatre, erected in 1824. An ancient stone bridge across the llhone was destroyed by a flood in 1 689 ; only four of its arches remain. ly fou The si city, of an oval form, built on a gently undulating surface, and surrounded by lofty walls, which are crowned with battle ments, flanked with square towers, and adorned with hand some gates. Along the ramparts is an excellent boulevard, planted with elms, from the lofty platform of which, particu Ik manufacture is the principal source of employment at Avignon, and the rearing of silkworms is carried on exten sively in the district. The city has also manufactories of velvet, woollen and cotton goods, hats, jewellery, &c , with silk-dye ing establishments, a cannon-foundry, a type-foundry, iron works, paper-mills, tanneries, &c. ; and a trade in wine, brandy, iron, cotton, wool, truffles, grain, and other articles, of which it is the entrepot for Lower Dauphine, Provence, and all Languedoc. Its chief manufactures, however, have been transferred to Lyons ; the annual fair at Beaucaire has sup planted its market; and it now depends chiefly on its olives, its vines, and the transit of goods upon the Rhone. The means of conveyance which Avignon possesses are very extensive. Numerous diligences run on the public roads which centre in it. Two steamers ply daily to Lyons, and two to Aries. The railway, connecting it on the one hand with Montpellier, and on the other with Mar seilles, has been completed ; while that which is to connect it with Lyons and the capital is in rapid progress. With such means of convey ance, it cannot be doubted that the improve ment which is said to have commenced in the trade of Avignon, will soon become much more decided. Avignon is supposed to have been founded i= i, by the Greeks who settled at Massilia, now Marseilles. After the Romans, it passed under the domination of the Goths, and other northern barbarians. In 730, it was taken by the Sara cens, who possessed it till 737, when it was nee . wrested from them by Charles Martel. After a variety of fortunes, during which it passed to the Counts of Provence, it was sold by a Countess of that name, in 1348, to Clement VI., who, as its price, not only promised to pay her 80,000 crowns, but declared her innocent of the murder of her husband, of which she was almost univer sally believed to be guilty. From that time Avignon con- AVIGNONET 277 AVRANCHES tinued to be possessed, for more than four centuries, by the popes, of whom not fewer than seven reigned at it, besides three others, generally regarded as schismatic popes, who, on the deposition of Gregory XI., the last of the seven, set up their throne here, and maintained it for 40 years. The popes latterly governed Avignon by legates, the last of whom was expelled at the Revolution of 1791. Fop. (1846), 26,185. AVIGNONET, a tn. France, dep. Haute-Garonne, 4 m. E. S.E. Villefranche, on the Lers, near the Canal of Languedoc. It has a considerable trade in cattle. The only remarkable event connected with it, is the summary vengeance which some Albigenses inflicted here, in 1242, on several priests and familiars of the inquisition. Pop. 1031. AVILA, a prov. Spain, in Old Castile, cap. same name, near the centre of the peninsula, and bounded, N. by prov. Val- ladolid, E. by Segovia and Madrid, S. by Toledo and Caceres, and W. by Salamanca; area, 4917 sq. m. ; watered by the Alberche, Adaja, and several smaller streams. The prevail ing formations are granite and mica. The N. portion of the province is, for the most part, flat and exposed, but adapted for tillage ; that on the S. very rugged and mountainous, interspersed with fruitful valleys and verdant slopes. The principal mountain-ranges are the sierras de Gredo.s, Pidra- hita, Villafranca, Villatoro, Avila, and Tiemblo; they are rocky and precipitous, covered with oak, pine, poplar, juniper, &c. Silver, copper, lead, iron, coal, marble, and various other minerals are found in Avila, and to some extent wrought. The plains in the N. part of the province are stony and poorly cultivated, but produce good grain and flax ; the valleys of the S. portion afford rich pasturage, and abound in grapes, olives, mulberries, chestnuts, filberts, and other fruits. Sheep, goats, pigs, horned cattle, &c., are reared in considerable numbers. Cloth, linen, silk, paper, soap, earthenware, hard ware, copper vessels, and leather are manufactured and ex ported. Avila possesses numerous benevolent institutions, and education is perhaps better attended to in it than in any other province of Spain ; crime is proportionally rare. The people are honest, temperate, and cheerful, but reserved and ceremonious towards strangers. Pop. 132,936. (Madoz.) AVILA, a city, Spain, in Old Castile, cap. prov. of same name, 65 m. W.N.W. Madrid, on a hill 3069 ft. above the sea, at the foot of which runs the river Adaja ; divided into three districts San Nicholas, San Antonio, and San Francisco and partially surrounded by a wall of polished granite, in good preservation, entered by nine gates, and formerly flanked with 88 towers. Before the invention of gunpowder, the I place was considered impregnable. It has irregular, badly paved, and filthy streets ; two large squares, containing the principal buildings, which, as well as the houses generally, are built of gray granite. Avila is the see of a bishop ; and has a Gothic cathedral, eight other churches, a university, an endowed school, a school of arts, townhall, public storehouse, hospital, cemetery, and several convents. Two annual fairs ; one held in June, for the agricultural and industrial produce of the country; the other in September, for horses, cattle, sheep, &c. Pop. 4121. (Madoz.) AVILES, a tn. and port, Spain, in Asturias, prov. of, and 17 m. N. Oviedo ; lat. 43 35 N. ; Ion. 5 51 W. ; 4 m. from the sea, 1. bank of the river Aviles, here crossed by a bridge called San Sebastian. The river at high water is navigable for vessels of the largest size up to the town. Aviles has some what regular, but convenient, well-lighted, paved, and drained streets ; several squares, in some of which are some fine houses with arcades ; an elegant guildhall, built on 13 arches, and having a quadrangular tower ; two churches, a townhouse, an hospital, several well-attended schools, a small theatre, the old palaces of the Marquises of Santiago and Ferrera, with numerous public and private fountains. Manufactures : - copper vessels, lime, earthenware, glass, linen, damask, cam bric, and drills ; and bleaching is carried on. The commerce is active, and consists chiefly in the export of copper vessels, earthenware, and a considerable quantity of coals, obtained from the mine of Arnao in the vicinity. Pop. 5600. (Madoz.) AVINGTON. 1, par. Eng. Berks; 1100 ac. Pop. 93. 2, par. Hants; 1820 ac. Pop. 204. AVID, a market tn. Austria, in the Tyrol, on the Adige, circle, Trent. It is the seat of a deanery ; and has a castle, manufactures of silk and velvet, and flint quarries. Pop. 2780. AVISE, a tn. Persia, in Kurdistan, on the Kherka, 72 in. S.W. Shuster. Pop. 8000. AVIZ [Latin, Avisium], a tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Alemtejo, dist. of, and 35 m. S.W. Portalegre, r. bank, Aviz, an affluent of the Zetas ; chief place of the order of military knights of Aviz, founded in 1146 by Alphonso I., and the residence of the grand prior. It is surrounded with good walls, and defended by a castle ; and contains a church, a con vent of the order of Aviz, an hospital, and a poorhouse. Pop. 1415. AVLONA. See AULDXA. AVOCA, or OVOCA. 1, A valley and river, Ireland, co. Wicklow, celebrated as the scene and subject of one of Moore s songs. The Avoca river traverses the parish of Arklow, and falls into the sea about half a mile below Arklow. It abounded at one time with salmon, but since the drainage of the Bally- mustagh copper mines was led into it, the fish have entirely disappeared. 2, A river, Australia Felix, which divides the districts of Wimmera and Westernport. There are a number of stations on its banks. It rises in the Australian Pyrenees, flows N., and falls into Lake Bael ; total course above 100 m. AVOCH, par. Scot. Ross; 6198 ac. Pop. 1931. AVOLA, or AOLA, a seaport tn. Sicily, defended by a battery, prov. of, and 13 m. S.W. Syracuse, pleasantly situated on a wooded eminence, with a marine village on the beach. It is clean and regularly built, has a good trade in wine, corn, cheese, oil, honey, almonds, and fruit ; and some sugar is made at the only cane plantation now remaining in Sicily. The adjacent country produces large numbers of cattle, many of which find a market at Malta. Game is abundant. Tunnies are caught a short distance from the town. Pop. 8500. AVON, the name of five rivers in England, two in Wales, three in Scotland, and two in Australia. Those in Scotland are sometimes called Aven ; the name Avon or Even, accord ing to Ireland, being common to rivers the course of which is easy and gentle. In ENGLAND are: 1, The Upper Avon, which rises in co. Northampton, passes Stratford-on-Avon, the birthplace of Shakspeare, and falls into the Severn at Tewks- bury. 2, Lower or West Avon, which rises in co. Gloucester, and enters the Bristol Channel about 8 m. below Bristol. 3, The Hampshire Avon, which falls into the English Channel at Christchurch Bay. 4, The Little or Middle Avon, rises in co. Gloucester, and falls into the Severn. 5, The Avon- Llivyd or Torvden, which rises in co. Monmouth, and, after a course of about 15 m., falls into the Usk at Caerleon, in the same county. Those in WALES are, a river in co. Glamor gan, which falls into Swansea Bay ; and another which rises in co. Merioneth, and falls into Cardigan Bay. -Those in SCOTLAND are: 1, A tributary of the Spey, which has its source in Loch Avon, in the S.W. extremity of co. Banff. 2, A stream which rises in Loch Avon, co. Ayr, and falls into the Clyde at Hamilton. 3, A river which, for nearly half of its course, forms the boundary between the cos. of Linlithgow and Stirling. It takes its rise in co. Dumbarton, and falls into the Frith of Forth a little W. of Borrowstoun- ness, in co. Stirling. Those in AUSTRALIA are: 1, A river in W. Australia, rising in co. Grantham, about lat. 32 30 S., from which it proceeds N. through the co. of York, and falls into the Swan river, at lat. 31 30 S., co. Victoria. 2, A river, Australia Felix, on which there are several stations. It is a small affluent of Lake Banynong ; lat. 36 25 S. ; Ion. 142 42 E. AVRANCHES [anc. Alrincce], a tn. France, dep. La Manche (Normandy), can. arrond., 30 m. E. St. Malo, 1. bank, Seez, about 3 m. above its embouchure in the Atlantic, pleasantly situated on the extremity of an extended ridge, the summit of which is crowned with the ruins of the cathedral, which was built in the llth century, and destroyed at the Revolution. Here Henry II. of England did penance in 1172, before two of the Pope s legates, for the murder of Thomas-a - Becket. A flat stone, with a cup engraved on it, marks the spot ; and is all, save a single broken pillar, that remains of the once magnificent cathedral. Avranches is the seat of a tribunal of primary jurisdiction ; and has a high school, a public library of about 10,000 volumes, an hospital, a theatre, and a botanic garden. From the latter, and from the public walk formed in what was formerly the garden of the bishopric, at the entrance to AVRANCHIN 278 AXUM tlie town, and various other points, the view obtained is said to be the finest in the N. of France. One of the most pro minent objects is the remarkable peak called St. Michel. Manufactures: lace, blondes, white thread, and wax candles. A small trade in grain, butter, cider, hemp, flax, and cattle is carried on. Avranches is a favourite residence of the English, on account of the beauty of its situation, the salubrity of the air, and the cheapness of living. The celebrated Huet, whose Demonstratio Evangelica is still regarded as one of the best works on the evidences of Christianity, was Bishop of Avranches. Pop. 7247. AVRANCHIN [Abricatinus Pagus], an ancient dist. France, now comprised in dep. La Manche, and forming the arroudissements of Avranches and Mortain. AWA. 1. A prov., tn., and cape, Japan, in the S. of isl. Niphon. The town Awa lies in lat. 34 N.; Ion. 140 E., about 80 m. S. Jeddo. 2, A principality in the same island. 3, A tn. Japan, cap. of isl. Sikoko. 4, A British fort in Bengal, Hindoostan, N. from Agra. 5, A market tn. Persia, prov. Irak, N.W. Sawa. AWASI, or AWADSI, an isl. Japan, about 60 m. in cir cuit, off the S. coast of Niphon, between it and the E. coast of Sikoko, in lat. 34 30 N.; Ion. 134 30 E. It forms a principality of the same name, has an area of 468 geo. sq. m., is high and hilly, has a stony and sandy soil, and yields cotton, but only sufficient for local consumption. From some of its lagoons, salt is gathered. On the coast is a town called also AWASI, besides which there are on the island the towns of Tsina, Mijwara, Mussima, and Jesima. AWATCHINSKAJ A, an active volcano in Kamtchatka; lat. 53 1 5 N. ; Ion. 158 50 E. last eruption took place in 1827. It is 9055 ft. in height ; its AWE (Locn), a fresh-water lake, Scotland, co. Argyle, extending about 28 m. in length, from N.E. to S.W., with a breadth of about 2 m., and communicating with Loch Etive by the river Awe, which, after a course of 7 m., discharges its waters into the latter at Bunaw. It is very deep ; and its sloping shores are well cultivated ; but the horizon is closed by lofty mountains, from which fall many picturesque cascades, Ben Cruachan frowning over its N. end, and giving it a singu larly wild and mountainous character. About 24 small islets are scattered over its surface, on two of which, inishail and Fraoch-Elan, are some beautiful ruins. Near its N.E. end, likewise, is Traocheillan Castle, once the seat of the chief of the M Naghtens ; and about 4 m. E., close on its banks, is the beautiful ruin of Kilchurn Castle, once the residence, and still the property, of the Marquis of Breadalbane. AWLISCOM13E, par. Eng. Devon ; 1820 ac. Pop. 590. AWRE, par. and vil. Eng. Gloucester, the former on a plain near the banks of the Severn. Area of par. 4120 ac. Pop. (1841), 1277. AX, a small tn. France, dep. Ariege, 20 m. S.E. Foix; picturesquely situated amidst mountains of granite belonging to the Pyrenees, at the intersection of three valleys, watered by the mountain-torrents of Ascou, Orgeix, and Merens, which, on their junction here, take the name of Ariege. It is celebrated for its hot sulphurous springs, varying in tem perature from 113 to 168 Fah. There are two or three establishments of baths, and several hotels and hospitals, one of which has been constructed by the French Government for military patients. Near it is an ancient bath, established in 1200, called Basin-des-Ladres, or Leper s Basin. The inhabitants use these hot springs for various domestic and even culinary purposes. Ax has some manufactures of woollen goods, and tanneries. Pop. 1991. (Murray s Handbook; Diet, de la France.) AX, or AXE, two rivers, England, one of which has its source in the Mendip 11 ills, in the remarkable cavern of Wokey hole, co. Somerset, and after being joined by the Chedder water, passes Axbridge, and flows into the Bristol Channel near the village of Uphill. The other Ax rises near Cheding- ton, co. Dorset, passes Axminster, and falls into the British Cliannel at Axmouth, co. Devon. AXBRIDGE, a market tn. and par. England, co. Somer set, him. Winterstoke. The town is 11 m. N.N.W. Glaston- bury, and 120 m. S. W. London, on the banks of the Ax, under the Mendip H ills, and consists of three or four irregular streets. The church, which stands on an eminence, is a large and handsome Gothic structure, of great antiquity, and contains some ancient monuments. There are, besides, chapels for Wesleyan Methodists and Particular Baptists, a guild-hall, a market-house, several schools, and some small charities. Knit stockings are manufactured here, and are in some request. Market-days, Tuesday and Saturday. Four fairs annually for cattle. Area of par. 540 ac. Pop. (1841), 1045. AXEL, a small tn. Holland, cap. can. of same name, prov. Zeeland, S. of the W. Scheldt, and 7 m. W. Hulst. It is built in the shape of a parallelogram, and has a townhall, a Calvinistic church, a school, two breweries, a saltwork, a hat manufactory, and two corn-mills. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in agriculture, and number 2200. AXHOLME, a river isl., England, N.W. angle, co. Lincoln, formed by the rivers Trent, Idle, and Don, about 17 m. long, N. to S. and generally 5 m. broad, E. to W. ; area, 47,800 ac. The soil is fertile, and large quantities of flax and hemp, rape and turnip-seed, are cultivated. In June 1747, the body of a woman was found 6 ft. deep, in a peat moss in this island. The antique sandals on her feet, afforded evidence of her having been buried there for many ages ; yet her nails, hair, and skin, showed hardly any marks of decay. It contains seven parishes, Althorpe, Belton, Crowle, Epworth, Haxey, Luddington, and Owston, and has two market towns, Crowle and Epworth, the latter the principal town of the isle. Pop. (1841), 12,775. AX1M, or AKSIM, a tn. and dist. Ahanta, on the Gold Coast. The Dutch had a fort here called Fort Anthony, situated on the most W. promontory of Cape Three Points. The Portuguese founded the first settlement, but were driven from it by the Dutch in 1642. The landing is good, and the country well cultivated. The town, on a river of the same name, lies between Dixcove and Cape Apollonia ; lat. 5 25 N. ; Ion. 2 35 W. AXMINSTER, a market tn. and par. England, co. Devon. The town is 24 m. E. Exeter, on the 8.W. side of a hill that rises above the river Axe ; consists of five principal streets, somewhat irregularly laid out, with houses mostly of stone, and slate-roofed ; is supplied abundantly with water, and well lighted with gas. The only public building worthy of notice is the parish church, a very ancient edifice, contain ing some interesting antique monuments. Its doorway is a fine specimen of Anglo-Norman. The other places of worship are, an Independent chapel, a Wesleyan chapel, and a R. ca tholic chapel. The educational means are, a national school, with a small endowment, in which about 120 boys and girls are educated; a school on the British system, and several private, dame, and Sunday schools. There are a news-room, several reading societies, and a few minor charities. Axminster was at one time celebrated for its woollen cloth and carpet manufactures; it had also an old established tape-factory; but none of these branches now exist in the town, the trade of which is entirely a retail one. Area of par. 6590 ac. Pop. 2860. AXMOUTH, par. Eng. Devon; 4280 ac. Pop. 645. AXUM, or AKSUM [anc. Axvma or Axiomis], a tn. Abys sinia, kingdom, Tigre, now much decayed ; situated about 10 m. W. Adowa, and 110 S.W. Arkeeko, near one of the sources of the Mareb, 7000 ft. above the level of the sea; lat. 14 IV N. ; Ion. 39 E. Modern Axum is a miserable village of about 600 huts, built in a small recess between two hills, at the N.W. end of a large and fertile valley, and is now worthy of notice only for its antiquities. Of these, the most celebrated is an obelisk, 60 ft. high, consisting of a single block of granite, highly ornamented in relief, and crowned with a representation of the ancient patera. It is of Grecian workmanship, and the only entire and erect specimen remain ing of upwards of 50, the rest lying in fragments around. Probably the most ancient relic in the place is a small square enclosure, with pillars at the corners, and a seat and footstool of granite in the centre, where the coronation of the kings of Axum took place. Axum was capital of a powerful kingdom, but we have no accounts of it previous to the commencement of the Christian era, when it was a great commercial mart, carrying on an extensive trade, especially in ivory, by the port of Adule, Adulis, or Zulla. on the Ked Sea. Its monarchs, \vho ruled not only the country of the AxumiicK, but also part of Arabia, were of Greek origin, and used the Greek language, and for many centuries maintained their dominion unimpaired. (Salt s Abyssinia; Russell s Nubia and Abi/ssinia.) AY (PULO) 279 AYR AY (Fui.o), or PULO WAY, one of the Banda Islands, Indian Archipelago; lat. 4 30 S.; Ion. 159 58 E. It is one of the most beautiful and picturesque of the Bandas, but is without water, the inhabitants depending on rain, or on sup plies from the other islands. In common with the other islands of the group, it produces excellent nutmegs. AY, or Ai (Sx.), [Lat. Ageium], a tn. France, dep. Marne (Champagne), 12 m. 8. Kheims; at the foot of a hill covered with vineyards, r. bank, Marne. It is celebrated for its white wines, which are considered the best of any in Champagne, and produced annually to the value of about 75,000. Besides its trade in wine, it has some distilleries and vinegar-works, and beds of fine clay for earthenware and porcelain. Pop. 3382. AYACUCHO, a dep. Peru, between lat. 12 and 15 30 S., and Ion. about 73 and 76 W.; bounded, N. by dep. Junin, E. and N.E. by independent Indian tribes, S. and W. by the Cordilleras, which separate it from Lima ; greatest length, from N.W. to S.E., 275 m.; greatest breadth, about 160 m.; area estimated at 25,000 geo. sq. m. With the exception of the S.W. frontier, formed by the magnificent range of the Cordilleras, it consists chiefly of a series of plains, from one of which it derives its name. It is well watered by numerous tributaries of the Amazon, the largest of which, the Montaro, proceeds through the N. of the department in a course so tor tuous, as almost to describe a circle. Ayacucho is divided into the 10 provinces of Tajacaja, Huanta, Huancavelica, Hua- manga, Anco, Castrovixeyna, Cangallo, Andahuailas, Lucanas, and Parinacochas. Cap. Huamanga. Pop. about 180,000. AYAMONTE, a seaport tn. Spain, prov. of, and 80 m. W.S.W. Seville, on the 1. bank, and near the mouth of the Guadiana, which here forms the boundary between Spain and Portugal. It stands on an acclivity which slopes from N. to S., and is defended by two small batteries, of modern con struction. The town consists of two parts, an upper and a lower, which have a very marked difference in their appear ance ; the former consisting of narrow and irregular streets, while those of the latter are regular and spacious, and lined with good houses, generally two, and sometimes three stories high. There are three public squares, all with well-planted walks. The largest of these, San Francisco, is adorned witli a fine fountain. The chief public buildings are, two churches, a townhouse, and prison ; but none of them are deserving of notice. Ayamonte has a well-endowed hospital, and two en dowed schools, in which only the humblest branches are taught. Boat-building and lace-making, once carried on to a great ex tent here, have greatly fallen off, though the latter still gives employment to a considerable number of females. The chief occupation at present is fishing. Pop. 4675. A YAK- NOR, a lake in Chinese Tartary, lat. 44 45 N.; Ion. 86 15 E. It is of an oval form, and receives several streams, the chief of which is the Loklon, but has no outlet. Greatest length, from E. to W., 35 m. ; breadth, 20. m. AYAS. SeeAiAS. AY ASH. See AJASII. AYCLIFFE (GREAT), par. Eng. Durham; 10,490 ac. Pop. 1372. AYERVE, a tn. Spain, in Aragon, prov. of, and 20 m. N.W. Huesea, on a hill near the source of the Vadillo. It has ill-paved streets ; two squares, connected by two lofty arches through the hereditary palace of the Marquis of Ayerve ; two churches, a townhall, an hospital, and two schools. Manu factures: linen, oil, and wine. Annual fair in September. Pop., including the adjacent hamlets of Anglis and Fontanellas, 2170. (Madoz.) AYLESBEAR, par. Eng. Devon; 3750 ac. Pop. 982. AYLESBURY, market tn. England, co. Buckingham, 38 m. N.W. London ; houses badly built, chiefly of brick ; water scarce ; six principal streets, irregular, indifferently kept, but lighted with gas. It has two established churches, one of them, St. Mary s, an ancient cruciform structure ; one In dependent, two Baptist, one R. catholic, one Methodist, and some_other smaller places of worship; a national, British, archdiaconal, and other schools ; a mechanics institution, and numerous minor charities. Principal public buildings: county-hall and market-house, handsome edifices; union work house and jail. Chief manufactures: silk throwing and weaving. Ducklings and tame rabbits bred in great numbers for the London market. Aylesbnry returns two members to Parliament; constituency (1849), 1513. Pop. of tn. and par. (1841), 5429. There is a vale of the same name in co. Buckingham, celebrated for its fertility. AYLESBY, par. Eng. Lincoln; 2110 ac. Pop. 201. AYLESFORD, a vil. and par. England, co. Kent. The vil. is 32 m. S.E. London, on the r. bank, Medway, over which there is a stone bridge of six arches. The only manu facture is paper. Pop. par. (1841), 1344. AYLESTONE, par. Eng. Leicester; 3840 ac. Pop. 757. AYLMER, a considerable lake in British N. America, immediately adjoining Clinton Colden Lake, with which it is connected by a small stream ; about 80 m. N. from the N.E. extremity of Great Slave Lake ; and intersected by the parallel of 64 15 N., and the meridian of 109 W. It is about 50 m. in length, and about 30 in breadth. AYLMERTON, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 14GO ac. Pop. 289. AYLSHAM, a market tn. England, co. Norfolk, on a gentle acclivity rising from the river Burr, 10J m. N. Nor wich. It consists of four principal streets, tolerably well kept, lighted with gas ; houses of brick, and generally well built ; supply of water ample, but not reckoned of the best quality. The church is in the decorated style. The other places of worship are, a Baptist chapel, and a Wesleyan and Primitive Methodist chapels. Aylsham was formerly celebrated for the manufacture of linen, sold under the name of Aylsham web. Subsequently, the manufacture of woollen articles gave employment to many of the inhabitants ; but since the intro duction of machinery, all these branches of industry have ceased to exist. Corn now forms the only article of trade. Aylsham has a national school for boys, another for girls, and a third for infants ; a commercial school, in connection with the Norwich Board of Education, for the sons of farmers and tradesmen ; a literary society, with a good and increasing library; and several minor charities. A cemetery with walks has been recently formed. Pop. (1841), 2448. AYLTON, par. Eng. Hereford; 810 ac. Pop. 69. AYMARGUES. See AIMARGUES. AYMAUN, a small tn. and harbour, Arabia, W. coast of the promontory of Maceta or Musendom, at the entrance into the Persian Gulf; lat. 25 25 N. ; Ion. 55 33 E. The houses are built principally of mud. The inhabitants depend for sub sistence upon the pearl-fishery, the produce of which is be tween 2400 and 3000 annually. The country around is sterile, and fresh water scarce, being procured from wells three quarters of a mile distant, and which are often filled up with sand by N.W. gales. The anchorage off the town is bad, over a rocky bottom. Pop. of tn. 1000 to 1200. AYMESTREY, par. Eng. Hereford; 7070 ac. Pop. 958. AYNHO, par. Eng. Notts ; 2330 ac. Pop. 662. AYORA, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 51 m. S.W. Valencia, in an extensive hollow at the base of an isolated limestone mountain. Its streets are, for the most part, straight, com modious, and clean, with wide well-paved footpaths. It has four squares, a parish church and a chapel of ease, a handsome townhall, an unhealthy prison, two schools, an hospital, a large public granary, and a public bath. On the summit of the hill, where a part of the town once stood, are the remains of an old castle. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in husbandry and expressing oil. Pop. 3786. (Madoz.) AYOTT, two pars. Eng. Herts:!, (St. Lawrence}. 980 ac. Pop. 134. 2, (St. Peter], 1270 ac. Pop. 240. AYR, a river, Scotland, Ayrshire, running a W. course of 30 m. through the dist. of Kyle, dividing the co., to which it gives name, into two nearly equal parts, and finally falling into the Frith of Clyde below the town of Ayr. The species of claystone, known as the Water of Ayr Stone, is found in its channel. AYR, AYKSHIKE, or AIKSHIRE, an extensive maritime co. on the S.W. coast of Scotland, having somewhat of a crescent form; bounded, N. by Renfrewshire, S. by Wigton and Kirk cudbright, E. by the shires of Lanark and Dumfries, and W. by the Irish Channel. It is about 70 m. in length, with a breadth varying from 1 to 22 m., but diminishing to 4 or 5 m. at^ its N. and S. extremities. Its coast line, which is about 75 m. in length, presents no deep indentations, but has several excellent harbours. The singular rock off the coast, known by the name of Ailsa Craig, belongs to the county, as does also the island of Little Cumbrae. Ayrshire comprises, altogether, 668,800 ac., of which about a half is supposed to be arable. The county was formerly, and is still popularly divided into the AYR S three districts of Carrick, Kyle, and Cunningham. The first comprehends all that part of the county lying S. of the Doon ; the second, the space between the Doon and the Irvine; and the third, the remaining part of the county N. of the Irvine, the smallest, but the most wealthy and populous of the three. The surface is irregular, and a large portion of it hilly. Of the latter description is the whole district of Carrick, the E. part of Kyle, and the N. extremity of Cunningham. The other parts of the county are in general flat, and somewhat mono tonous, with exception of the banks of the streams, which are remarkable for their picturesque beauty. The level lands are extremely fertile and well cultivated ; but in the lower dis tricts along the coast, the soil is mostly light and sandy, and less productive. Although, as above stated, a large portion j of Ayrshire is hilly, it has no great elevations, the highest summits varying from about 1200 to 1900 ft. The principal streams are the Ayr, Stinchar, Girvan, Doon, Irvine, and Garnock, more than one of which have been rendered classic j by the muse of Burns. There are several small lakes in va- j rious parts of the county, some of them well stocked with fish, but not otherwise remarkable. Fish are also plentiful on the coast, although not so abundant, it is said, as formerly. The mineral riches of Ayrshire are very considerable, although in part but of recent development. Coal is abund ant, especially in the middle and N. parts of the county, which may be considered as included in the great coal-field of Scot land. Extensive seams, also, of black-band ironstone have recently been discovered in various parts, and of so promising a character, as to render it extremely probable that Ayrshire will, at no distant day, become the great seat of the iron manufactures of Scotland. The principal ironworks already established in the county are those of Blair, Glengarnock, Eglin- ton, Muirkirk, Lugar, Kilmarnock, and Dalmellington ; but others are from time to time being added. Humbago is found in some localities in considerable seams; and lead, antimony, and copper are also met with, but in small quan- tity. Limestone and freestone abound. Mill-stones, of coarse granite, much esteemed for their hardness and durability, are j quarried near the N. coast, in the district of Cunningham, j The well-known whetstone, called Water of Ayr Stone, is found in the river Ayr. Marl, also, is procured in many places. The climate of Ayr is moist, the average annual amount of rain falling near the centre of the county being 39 and 42 in. ; but it is by no means insalubrious. The agriculture of the county was in a miserable condition till about the middle of the last century, when it began to improve, and has since con- tinued to make rapid progress. The principal grain raised is j the oat; turnips are rapidly increasing, the quantity now raised being upwards of ten times that grown 15 to 20 years since. Potatoes, also, are universally cultivated. Flax is raised, and : big or bere, but very little wheat. Lime is the common manure, but on the coast sea-weed is much used. Dairy-hus bandry is extensively practised, the Ayrshire cows being celebrated as milkers. The well-known and much esteemed Dunlop cheese, so called from a parish of that name in the district of Cunningham, is produced in large quantities; but most part of the cheese made in the adjoining parishes, and even in the adjoining counties, is sold as Dunlop cheese. Great quantities of milk, also, are sent, in large tin cases, by railway to Glasgow. On the dry lands along the coast, a small white-faced breed of sheep, of indifferent quality, has long been maintained, but in the moors the native sheep are bred in great numbers ; their wool is coarse and scanty, but the flesh is excellent. The horses of Ayrshire are of superior breed, being hardy, strong, and of large size. The arable farms are mostly small ; average rent of land, about lla. 3d. per acre. There are several large estates, although there are also many of the middling and smaller class of proprietors. The roads throughout the county are now excellent, although in former times there was scarcely a practicable road in it. As already mentioned, iron is manufactured to a great extent, and is yearly increasing ; its woollen manufactures are also extensive, particularly carpets, bonnets, and worsted shawls, which are produced in great quantities at Kilmarnock, Stewarton, and other towns. There are some considerable tanneries, and likewise several extensive cotton-works in dif ferent parts of the county ; and a great deal of yarn is spun for the Glasgow and Paisley manufacturers. Ayrshire needle- AYR work is also much esteemed, and has been long known and celebrated under that name ; nor is the county less famed for its beautiful wooden snuff-boxes. The county is adorned with many elegant mansions, of which probably the finest and most picturesque is Culzean Castle, the seat of the Marquis of Ailsa, standing on the verge of a basaltic clilf, overhanging the sea, about 1 1 in. S.S.W. Ayr. Among the many interesting monu ments of antiquity, may be noticed two enormous cairns of gray stones, one in the parish of Galston, the other, the larger of the two, in that of Sorn. Nothing is known of the history of either. There are also traces of encampments in various parishes, supposed to be of Danish origin. On the coast of Carrick, about 13 m. S.S.W. the town of Ayr, is the ancient castle of Turnberry, in which llobert Bruce, King of Scot land, is said to have been born, and where he is known to have spent many of his youthful years. It was here that a fire, accidentally kindled, was mistaken by Bruce for an ap pointed signal, and caused him to cross the sea from the island of Arran opposite, to attempt the deliverance of his country. Dunure Castle, a tall empty tower occupying a commanding position on the coast, about 7 m. S.S.W. Ayr, is also an in teresting relic of former times. Of the ecclesiastical ruins, the most interesting is the abbey of Crossraguel, in the parish of Kirk-Oswald, founded in 1244. The chief towns are Ayr, Kilmarnock, Irvine, Troon, Saltcoats, Largs, Ardrossan, Girvan, Ballantrae, Tarbolton, Mauchline, Beith, Dairy, Catrine, and Maybole. Ayrshire contains 46 pars., and returns one member to Parliament. Constituency in 1849, 4308. Annual value of real property in 1842-3, 531,319. Pop. (1851), 189,858. AYR, a seaport, royal and parl. bor. Scotland, cap. of above co., on a wide plain, 1. bank, river Ayr, near its confluence with the Frith of Clyde, 30 m. S.W. Glasgow, and 40 by railway; Int. 55 27 54" N. ; Ion. 4 37 42" W. (K.) Two bridges, the Twa Brigs of Burns, called, respectively, the Auld and New Brigs, the latter an elegant structure of five arches, connect the town with the suburbs, Newton or New Town, and Wal- lacetown, both on the r. bank of the river. In the more modern parts of the town the streets are spacious, many of the shops elegant, and the houses handsome. Here, also, is one of the finest squares of which any provincial town can boast, called Wellington Square. All the principal streets are well paved, lighted with gas, and kept remarkably clean. In the town and suburbs there are four established churches, two Free, two U. Presbyterian, a Keformed Presbyterian, Original Seceder, Congregationalist, Episcopalian, and K. catholic. The other principal edifices are the Town s New Buildings, containing a suite of elegant assembly-rooms, and a public reading-room, the whole structure being finely set off by an elegant spire, 226 ft. in height; the county buildings, on the N. W. side of Wellington Square, after the model of the temple of Isis at Eome; and Wallace Tower, a handsome struc ture, 115 ft. in height, having, in a niche in front, an indiffer ently-executed statue of the hero. This tower occupies the site of an ancient one of the same name, in which, according to tradition, Wallace was confined. Between the town and the sea are the remains of a citadel erected by Cromwell, now called the Fort. The academy at Ayr has long been celebrated for the excellence of its system, and the ability of its teachers a cir cumstance which has tended in no small degree to promote the prosperity of the town, many families resorting to it for the education of their children. The number of scholars averages from 500 to 600 annually. The building is plain but commodious, and occupies a healthy situation. With ex ception of carpets, there are no manufactures of any extent in the town, which, on the whole, in a business point of view, is a dull place, depending greatly on the weekly markets and the county courts for its support. The harbour of Ayr has two piers, which extend into the sea upwards of 300 yards, one on the S. side of the river, and the other on the N. Further out, there is a breakwater, re cently constructed. The depth of water, in ordinary spring tides, is from 13 to 14 ft., but at low water only 2 ft. The channel, however, is too narrow to admit vessels drawing more than 12 ft. water, while the navigation is much impeded by a shifting bar of sand near the mouth, on which, at ebb tide, there is not more than a foot of water ; but, in spring tides, there is 9 ft. at high water, and 7 in neaps, with a foot or two more with fresh S. winds. The shipping trade of Ayr is AYR ( NEWTON-UPON ) 281 AZERBIJAN chiefly with Ireland, the principal exports being cotton, wool lens, iron, coal, and whetstone. Imports: grain, spirits, limber, slates, bricks, and lime. There is also a small foreign trade in hemp, mats, tallow, tar, iron, and pitch. The sea fisheries of Ayr were at one time very considerable, but have greatly declined of late years. Races are held here on a course about a mile S. from the town, and are generally well attended ; and about 2 m. S. stand Burns s Cottage, Alloway Kirk, &c. See ALLOWAY. The town of Newton-upon-Ayr, on the opposite bank of the river, is now generally ranked as a suburb of Ayr, although it is a burgh of barony, having magistrates of its own, and a peculiar and independent constitution. The principal street is of considerable length, but contains few handsome houses, while those in the other and older parts of the town are nar row, irregular, and straggling, and the houses of homely appearance ; but towards the sea, several new and spacious streets have been laid out, and a number of neat villas erected. The only building of any note, exclusive of the churches, is the council-house. Handloom weaving and hand-sewing are carried on here to a considerable extent, especially the latter, the celebrated Ayrshire needlework, in which several huft- dred females are employed. Newton upon- Ayr has a joint interest with Ayr in the harbour, and supplies nearly all the coal shipped there. It has, likewise, some shipbuilding docks, rope-walks, and iron and brass-foundries. Although called New Town, the erection of the burgh dates as far back as the time of Eobert Bruce. It is included within the par liamentary boundaries of the burgh of Ayr by the Reform Act, and thus forms a constituency with it, Campbelton, Inverary, Irvine, and Oban, in returning a member to Parliament. The terminus of the Glasgow and Ayr Railway is in this suburb. Wallacetown, mainly in the par. of St. Quivox, was formerly a vil. adjoining Newton-upon-Ayr, but is now so blended with it as to form one compact town. Its population consists almost entirely of colliers, artizans, and weavers. It also is within the parliamentary boundaries of Ayr. Pop. Ayr, 8264; Newton-upon-Ayr, tn. and par. 4482. Pop. of parl. bor. 15,749. AYR (NEWTON-UPON). See AYR. AYSGARTH par. and township, Eng. York, N. Riding; 79,980 ac. Pop. 5725. AYSTON, par. Eng. Rutland; 1030 ac. Pop. 88. AYTON. 1, (Great), par. Eng. York, N. Riding ; 5740 ac. Pop. 1216. 2, par. Scot. Berwick; 7000 ac. Pop. 1784. AZAMBUJA, a tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Estrema- dura, dist. Alemquer, 18 m. S.W. Santarem. It is situated on a fine and well-cultivated plain, and has an annual fair. Pop. 1640. AZAMOR, a small tn., N.W. coast, Morocco, prov. Dukaila, on a sand-hill, 120 ft. above the sea, at a short distance from the 1. bank of the river Um -er -biegh; lat. 33 18 N. ; Ion. 8 15 W. (it.) The walls, which are 1 J m. in circuit, are in ruins, and the only defence remaining is a few guns, pointed seawards. The town is dull and lifeless, the streets narrow and filthy. Provisions, fish, vegetables, and fruit are, however, abundant, and of excellent quality. At the S.E. angle of the town is a suburb, containing a mosque and a sanctuary. The inhabitants carry on some trade in wool, which is shipped at Mazagan, a small port about 8 m. S.W. ; a sand-bar at the mouth of the Um -er -biegh, and the rapidity of the current, rendering the approach to Azamor dangerous. The country around is open, and well cultivated, with many gardens, and extensive plantations of henna. Pop. 1000. AZANI, an ancient Phrygian city of Turkey in Asia, pash. Anatolia, now in ruins, 1. bank, Rhyndacus, 22 m. S W. Kutaya. It was formerly a wealthy and magnificent city, as appears from the numerous and imposing relics with which it abounds, including a great quantity of shafts of columns, beautifully-worked capitals, entablatures, and the ruins of a noble temple and theatre. The columns of the temple are of the Ionic order, formed of a single block of marble, 28 ft. in length. Some of the Greek inscriptions on the walls refer to the reign of Hadrian. The modern village consists of a few straggling huts. AZAUGHAL, a tn. Spain, Estremadura, prov. of, and 24 m. S.S.E. Badajoz ; in u, valley, encompassed by three hills. VOL. I. It has straight, well-paved streets, three squares, a parish church, townhouse, public storehouse, two schools, prison, barrack, and an hospital. Agriculture, domestic weaving, oil-pressing, and brandy-distilling, are the chief occupations. Pop. 2890. AZAY, several small tns. and corns. France: 1, Azay- Bi-uU, a vil. and com., dep. Deux-SeVres. Pop. 1906.- 2, Azay-le-Ferron, a tn. and com., dep. Indre (Berry), 16 m. N. Le Blanc; with a hot sulphurous spring. Pop. 1541. 3, Azay-le-Rideau, a tn. agreeably situated on the Indre, dep. Indre-et-Loire (Touraine), 15 m. S.W. Tours; with manufac tures of leather and bombazines. Pop. 1219. 4, Azay-sur- Cher, a vil. and com., dep. Indre-et Loire, 7 m. E.S.E. Tours, 1. bank, Cher. Some good red wines are made here, called vins du Cher. Pop. 1262. 5, Azay-sur-Indre, a vil., dep. Indre-et -Loire, 1. bank, Indre, at the confluence of the Indroy. Pop. 461. 6, Azay-sur-Thoue, a vil. and com., dep. Deux- Sevres ; with manufactures of linsey-woolsey and druggets. Pop. 1199. AZCOITIA, a tn. Spain, Biscay, prov. Guipuzcoa, 20 m. N.W. Tolosa; in a verdant plain, 1. bank, Urola, at the base of the lofty mountain of Itzarriz. The town is in three divisions, and comprises a square, one principal and several other well-constructed and commodious streets, with wide foot -pavements. The townhouse, a fine edifice, with five arches in front ; the parish church, a good specimen of Doric ; and the school, are the only buildings worth notice. Chief employments : agriculture, and the manufacture of iron nails and hardware. There are also some flourmills. The vicinity yields grain, fruits, especially cherries, chestnuts, and veget ables; also, some game and fish. Pop. 3795. (Madoz.) AZEITAO, or VILLA NOGUEIRA, a tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Estremadura, dist. of, and 6 m. W. Setubal ; on a small stream, which falls into the estuary of the Tagus. It has two churches, a cotton-factory, several dyeworks, and some trade in wood. Pop. 1590. AZERBIJAN, or ADERBAIJAN [anc. Media Atropatene], a frontier prov. Persia, between lat. 36 10 and 38 55 N. ; and Ion. 44 20 and 48 20 E.; bounded, N. by trans-Caucasian Russia, E. Russia and Ghilan, S. Irak-Ajemi and Ardelan, and W. Kurdistan ; length, from borders of Kurdistan to the Ma- sula Mountains, 210m.; breadth, 185 m. ; area, 25,285 sq. m. Nearly the whole country consists of a succession of high mountains, intersected by deep and rugged ravines, which occasionally open into plateaux or extensive plains. Many of these are fertile, and partially cultivated. In the very centre of the province are the mountains of Sahend, rising to the height of 9000 ft. above the sea level , towards the E. of Tabreez, Mount Sevelan is between 12,000 and 13,000 ft. The principal rivers are the Aras or Araxes, on the N. border, with its affluent the Karasu ; the Kizil-Ozein, in the S., with its numerous affluents, which water the central parts of the province; the Jugatty, the Sosar-chai, the Aji, and the Salyan, which fall into the Lake of Urmiah. One of the most re markable features of Azerbijan is the great salt lake of Urmiah (which see). The best soils yield from 50 to 60 fold, when abundantly irrigated, by means of the many small rivers by which the province is intersected. The principal produce consists of wheat, barley, maize, rye, flax, hemp, madder, dried fruits, cotton, tobacco, honey, grapes, wax, and wool ; and a considerable number of cattle, camels, horses, and sheep are reared. The chief articles of manufacture are velvets, silk stuffs, carpets, woollens, copper utensils, arms, and a little cutlery. There are very extensive tanneries ; and the dressing of furs and skins is a general occupation. The province has some valuable minerals, particularly iron, lead, copper, salt, saltpetre, and sulphur ; and among the hills in the neighbour hood of Maragha is found a beautiful transparent white marble, much prized in Persia for paving baths and palaces ; and in thin plates it is used for bath-windows. The climate of Azerbijan is healthy, but extremely hot in summer and autumn, and intensely cold in winter ; the latter being severely felt from the great want of fuel, the only sub stitute for which is dried cow-dung mixed with straw. The spring is temperate and delightful in the plains ; but, on moun tains destitute of wood, the snow lies for nine months in the year; and hailstorms are so violent as frequently to kill cattle in the fields. The province is divided into 12 districts; chief towns, Tabreez or Taurus, the capital ; Meanna or Mian- 36 AZIMGHUR 282 AZOKES nali, Anlubeel, Shebuster, Tasouj, Shar, Shelmast, Khoi, Urtniah, the birthplace of Zoroaster, and Maragha. The oppressive and exacting system of the Government tends much to depress the energies of the people; and, in 1832, a colony of no less than 40,000 Armenians left this province and settled within the Russian territories. Pop. 1,500,000; consisting of Persians, Turks, Armenians, and Jews. (Kin- nier s Gcog. Memoir of the Persian Empire; Ouseley s Travels; Eraser s History of Persia, and Travels on ilie S. banks of tlie Caspian Sea; Gcog. Jour., vol. iii. ; Col. Chesney.) AZIMGHUR, a tn. Hindoostan, prov. Allahabad, 60 m. N.N.E. Benares, and 400 m. N.W. Calcutta ; lat. 26 3 N. ; Ion. 83 4 E. It was ceded to the British by the Nabob of Oude, in 1801. The inhabitants manufacture and export a considerable quantity of cotton goods. AZIMNAGUR, a large dist. Hindoostan, prov. Bejapoor, S. the Krishna, about lat. 16 N.; watered by the Gutpurba and Malpurba, but still to a great extent remaining in a state of nature. Chief towns : Gokauk, Belgaum, and Shahpoor. AZINCOURT. See AGINCOURT. AZMERIGUNGE, or AJAMIDA GANJ, a tn. Hindoostan, prov. Bengal, on the river Soormah, a tributary of the Brah mapootra, 225 m. N.E. Calcutta; lat. 24 31 N. ; Ion. 91 10 E. It has an establishment for the construction of native boats, and a considerable inland trade. AZOF (SEA OF), [called by the Russians, More Asowslcoe ; Latin, Palus Mceotis; Greek, A, , MJT], a large body of water in S.E. Europe, forming the N. subdivision of the Black Sea, with which it is connected by the Strait of Kertsch or Yenikale [anc. Cimmerian Bosphorus] ; situated between the parallels of 45 15 and 47 18 N., and between the meridians of 35 and 39 E. ; its length, S.W. to N.E. (from the Strait of Kertsch to the mouth of the Don), being 168 m. ; its average breadth, about 80 m. ; and its area, about 14,000 sq. m. The N. coast is, for the most part, bold and craggy, rising about 100 ft. above the water; the E. coast, inhabited by Cossacks, is very low, chiefly sandy, and intersected with lakes and morasses ; the W. coast is formed by the tongue of sand, called the Tongue of Arabat, which divides it from the Sibache" More or Putrid Sea; while the Crimea, and the territory of the Cossacks of the Black Sea, form the S. shore, on which, here and there, are some hills, visible a considerable dis tance Its greatest depth, between Yenikale and Bielosaria, on the N. side, is 7J fathoms; and it dimin ishes considerably towards the Gulf of Don, several banks extending a great distance from the shore. The water is muddy, and, from the numerous rivers running into it, almost fresh. The Sea of Azof has no remarkable current, the strong est never running more than 1 m. an hour ; the navigation is gener ally stopped from November to March by ice. Perhaps no body of water of equal extent so abounds with fish; the principal fisheries are along the S. coast, between ( ape Dolgava and the Strait of Yenikale, the sturgeon, sterlet, and i 1 ^ other fish, from which are prepared, in large quantities, both caviare and isinglass. The extreme W. part of the Sea of Azof, called the Putrid Sea, is, during the greater part of the year, little better than a noxious quag mire, and, at all times, wholly useless for navigation. The Strait of Yenikale is about 11 m. long, and 4 broad; though the navigable channel never exceeds 1 m. in breadth. A new island was raised in the Sea of Azof, in 181 4, by volcanic eruptions. The chief towns on its banks are Taganrog and Marioupol, on the N. shore, and Kertsch, on the W. shore of the strait of the same name. The commerce of the Sea of Azof has been much hindered, not only by the impossibility of navigating it during four months of the year, but also to the extensive activity of Odessa, which has deprived it of much of its trade. The following gives a comparative view of the foreign and coasting trade, both import and export, in 1845 and 1846 : IMPORT TBADK, 1845-6. POUTS. Value. j Coat ten. Value. M : ....: 1MB 1846 1845 1846 1845 1816 Taganrog... !97 238 200,481 219,852 1604 1863 51,614 82,192 Marioupol.. 74 1,1 379 112 318 411 31,257 31,630 Kostow ii o 1559 1597 18,002 37,240 Berdiausk.. B6 82 26 1 1294 252 350 8,773 18,286 Total .. 167 S82 201,124 251,258 3733 4221 109,646 169,348 EXPORT TRADE, 1845-6. PORTS. VeS Value. COM ten. Value. ,845 1846 1815 1846 1844 1846 184.1 I:MG Taganrog... 540 -J-- 359,669 360,632 1569 1753 99,539 98,318 Marioupol.. 84 71 164,860 195,70:1 296 376 5,921 3,772 Rfttow ii (i 520,747 448,432 1592 1818 396,040 135,734 Berdiansk.. 101 1 !8 215,468 280,115 216 280 7,606 8,526 Total.. 526 1-7 1,260,744 1,284,882 3673 4227 509,106 246,350 AZOF, or Azov, a decayed tn. Russia, gov. Ekaterinoslav, 1. bank, Don. about 10 m. from its emb( mchure in the Sea of Azof; lat. 47 7 N. ; Ion. 39 26 5" E. (R.) AZOGUES, or AZOQUES, a tn. Ecuador, prov. of, and 15 m. N.N.E. Cuenca; lat. 2 42 S.; Ion. 79 7 W. The valley of Yunguilla, in wh ch it is situated, is remarkable for its fertility. There are mines of both s ilver and quicksilver in the vicinity. Rubies are found in the sands of a stream which runs through the valley. AZORES, or WESTERN ISLANDS, a series of islands, N. Atlantic Ocean, belonging to Portugal ; situated between lat. 36 59 and 39 44 N., and Ion. 31 7 and 25 10 W. They are nine in number, and arranged in three groups ; the N.W. being composed of the islands of Flores and Corvo ; the cell- tral group, about 114 m. S.E. from these consists of Terceira, THE AZORES OR, WESTERN ISLES. table, taken from the Journal of Austrian Lloyd s, 1847, tion. The climate, though somewhat humid, is delightful St. George, Pico, Fayal, and Graciosa ; and the third group, 69 m. S.E. from the central, of St. Michael and St. Mary. St. Michael is the largest of all the islands, being 50 m. long, and from 5 to 12 broad. St. Mary is distant from it about 45 m. The Azores, all of which are of volcanic origin, seem ingly of a late period, present a very rugged, though pictur esque aspect, being lofty, precipitous, and generally of a coni cal form. The most remarkable of them is the Peak of Pico, a conical mountain, which shoots up to the height of about 7000 ft. Though presenting a very unpromising appearance from the sea, a closer inspection discovers these islands to be covered with the most luxuriant vegetation, vineyards, corn fields, groves of lemon and orange-trees ; and rich open pas- ures, skirted by beautiful woods, meet the eye in every direc- ,. . ., i . 1 1 :J : jl r>li frit f Till AZORES 283 AZBEK (BAHR-EL-) and, combined with the natural fertility of the soil, brings every sort of vegetable product to the utmost perfection. The sugar-cane, coffee-plant, and tobacco grow luxuriantly ; and fruits and plants of all kinds, and from all countries, could be here cultivated with greater success than perhaps in any other part of the world. Unfortunately, however, the inhabitants have neither the energy nor intelligence necessary to turn the natural advantages of their position to the best account. They know nothing of gardening, and very little of the science of agriculture. Their implements are of the rudest description ; and in sowing they throw the seed about at random, calculat ing on the bounty of nature for a rich return, in which they are never disappointed. The lupine, which grows to an extra ordinary size in these islands, is one of its most valued pro ductions. It is raised in great quantities, and the seeds, after being soaked in sea-water, to divest them of their bitterness, constitute a favourite food of the poorer classes. The Azores produce annually upwards of 17,000 pipes of wine and brandy, and about 160,000 boxes of oranges and lemons ; the greater part of which find their way to Britain, the remainder being divided between Brazil, Hamburg, and the U. States. They also export considerable quantities of coarse linen, salted pork, and beef. Their imports are, chiefly, from England, hard ware, cotton and woollen stuffs, wearing apparel, &c. ; from the Brazils, rum, coffee, sugar, &c. ; from the U. States, fish, staves, timber, tar, oil, &c. ; from Portugal, salt, tea, images, crucifixes, indulgences, dispensations, relics, &c. These last are sold openly in the shops, at high prices. The beasts of burden are asses and bullocks, and a few horses, but of a very inferior description. Sheep, goats, pigs, and dogs are numerous, the last two in excess. The lands are held under strict entail, and the farmer to whom they are leased is oppressed with every possible sort of exaction. The great hinderance, however, to the commercial prosperity of the Azores is their want of good harbours ; the only tolerable port being that of Angra, in the island of Terceira, and even that is much exposed, and offers little safety excepting in the fine season. All the rest are open bays or roadsteads, affording hardly any protection whatever. The Azores, as already remarked, are of volcanic origin, and many tre mendous evidences of the activity of the subterranean fires have presented themselves at various times. In 1591, an earthquake, which continued 12 days, destroyed the town of Villa Franca in the island of St. Michael ; and in 1808 a vol cano rose up in the island of St. George, to the height of 3500 ft., and became extinct after burning with great fury for six days, and sending out a flood of lava which overflowed the island, and covered it with ruin and desolation. In this archipelago, several rocks and volcanic islands have from time to time been thrust up from the bottom of the ocean. The last that appeared was in 1811, off the W. end of St. Michael. In June of that year, the crater of a volcano sud denly emerged from the sea, rose to the height of 300 ft., raged furiously for some time, ejecting ashes, cinders, and stones, and again gradually disappeared. Fountains of boiling water also exist in many of the islands, affording further evi dence of the presence of internal heat. One of the finest specimens both of the mountain-scenery of the Azores and their extinct volcanoes, is the Caldeira of Flores. Its steep sides are clothed with box, cedar, and faya ; while its crater, filled with water, forms a magnificent mountain-lake, deep and clear, and often covered with sea-gulls, whose cries awaken the echoes, and have a strange effect. The islands are poli tically divided into three departments, under a governor general and two lieutenant-governors ; the seat of government being at Angra, in the island of Terceira. Both intelligence and morals are at an extremely low ebb amongst the people of the Azores, who are, besides, very bigoted. The lower classes are abominably filthy in their persons. Their best redeeming quality is temperance. The period of the first discovery of the Azores is not ascertained, but they were known, and several of them were laid down in maps, in the 1 4th century. Little, however, was known of them till about the year 1431 or 1432, when a Flemish merchant of the name of Joshua Vanderberg, in a voyage to Lisbon, was driven by stress of weather on their coasts ; having mentioned his dis covery on his arrival at Lisbon, the Portuguese Government immediately fitted out an expedition, and took possession of them, giving them the name of the Acores, from the great numbers of hawks found on the islands ; Agor being the Por tuguese for hawk. They were at this period totally unin habited, and without animals of any kind, excepting birds, which were numerous and various. A dangerous reef of rocks, on which the sea breaks heavily, has been recently discovered about midway between the islands of St. Michael and Terceira. It is in about lat. 38 16 or 38 18 N. ; and Ion. 26 41 or 26 50 W. ; 35 m. N.W. of the N.W. point of St. Michael. The reef is supposed to have been thrown up recently by the agency of a submarine volcano ; several islets having been formerly thrown up near the same spot, but, from being of arenaceous constitution, were soon washed away. The pop. of the Azores is reckoned altogether at 203,500. Terceira, 40,000; Santo Miguel or St. Michael, 80,000; Pico, 24,000; Fayal, 22,000; Flores, 14,000; Santo Jorge, or St. George, 10,000; Graciosa, 7800; Santa Maria, 5000 ; Coroo, 700. AZOV. See AZOF. AZPEITIA, a tu. Spain, in Biscay, prov. of, and 18 m. W.N.W. Tolosa, 10 m. from the sea, 1. bank, Urola, at the N. base of Mount Itzarriz. Though rather a scattered town, yet near its centre, part of the ancient walls, with four gates of hewn stone, still exist ; as do many old Moorish- looking houses, once highly ornamented, but now partly dilapidated. It has well-constructed and paved streets, and three squares, in the principal of which are the former convents of St. Domingo and St. Augustine, now converted into a primary school and public reading-room ; in the same square bull fights are held on the festival of St. Loyola. In the smaller squares are two town- houses, one of which is now used as a prison. The town also possesses two churches, one of which is of mixed Tuscan and Gothic architec ture ; several good fountains, and a public bath. Manufactures : iron vessels, nails, and shoes, all of limited extent. In two marble-works, driven by water-power, the marble, from the quar ries of Mount Itzarriz, is cut. Ignatius Loyola, the founder of the order of the Jesuits, was born about a mile from Azpeitia, on the banks of the Urola, in a house which is still preserved within the marble walls of the convent that bears his name; and in the same locality, bearing also the name of Loyola, is u fine church in the Corin thian style, also built of marble. Pop. 5300. (Madoz.) AZREK (BAHR-EL-), or BLUE NILE, a river, N.E. Africa, one of the two principal head-streams of the Nile. It rises, under the name of the Dedhesa, in the Galla country, S. from Abyssinia, in an elevated district, about 73 m. S.W. Sokka, cap. of Encrea. It issues from a swampy meadow, and pursues a general N.W. course till it joins the Bahr- el-Abiad or White Nile at Khartoom ; lat. 15 40 N. ; Ion. AZUELA 234 BAALBEC 32 40 E. Its largest tributary is the Aba"i, which joins it about lat. 11 N. See NILE. AZUELA, a large river in S. America, Ecuador, prov. Quito. It rises on the E. slopes of the Cayambe, one of the loftiest summits of the Bolivian Andes, directly under the terrestrial equator, whence it flows E. and S.E. for upwards of 200 in., when it assumes the name of the Ahuaricu, an affluent of the Napo, one of the tributaries of the Amazon. AZUN (VAL D ), a valley, France, dep. Hautes-Pyre ne es, traversed by the Gave, and called, from its beauty, the Eden of the Pyrenees. It is intersected by the stream whence it is named, and opens out \V. of the valley of Argelez, about 3 m. S.W. the town of that name, and extends up into the central chain, between the mountains called Pic du Midi d Azun and Pic de Gabisos, and contains 10 considerable vil lages. It produces principally flax and millet. The heights are cultivated with care, and the lower parts afford excellent pasturage for numerous herds of cattle. At the extremity of the valley is the road leading to Spain. AZURARA, a seaport tn. Portugal, prov. Entre Douro- e-Minho, 1. bank, Ave, at its junction with the sea ; the former separates it from Villa do Conde, of which it may be con sidered a suburb ; lat. 41 20 N. ; Ion. 8 37 18" W. ; 15 m. N. from Oporto. Pop. 788. BAAGOE, or BAAO, two small islands, Denmark: 1, In bail. Mb en, between isls. Falster and Seeland, from which it is about equally distant ; lat. (centre) 54 57 N. ; Ion. 12 4 E.; about 3 or 4 m. long, and about 2 m. broad at the broadest part. It is fertile, has a village named Bogoby, and about 1000 inhabitants. 2, In the Little Belt, between isl. Odense and the E. coast of Schleswig, in lat. (S. point) 55 17 42" N. ; Ion. 9 48 0" E. (R.), about 2 m. in length, and 1 in breadth. It is fertile, and forms part of the par. of Assens in Ftihnen. BAALBEC, or BALBEC [called by the Greeks, Heliopolis the city of the sun], Syria, 40 m. N.W. Damascus, anciently a populous and magnificent city, now in ruins, and inhabited only by a few poor families ; situated on a rising ground, near the N.E. extremity of the plain of Bocat or Bekka, between the heights of Libanus and Anti-Libanus. On an elevated platform, about 1 100 ft. in length, from E. to W., and 700 ft. in width, from N. to S., the principal ruins, seen from a distance, tower like the ridge of a hill. The most remarkable ruin is that of the great temple, which stands at the E. extremity, and occupies a circuit of more than half a mile. A handsome flight of steps leads to a Corin thian propylaBum or portico, 260 ft. in length. This portico leads into a hexagonal court, 1 44 ft. in diameter, surrounded by chambers in ruins. From the AV. side of this enclosure, a gateway and sloping ascent lead into a grand quadrangular court, 347 ft. long, by 317 ft. wide. It occupies the highest and central part of the platform, and is surrounded by apart ments, some of them semicircular alcoves, 30 ft. in diameter, and others quadrangular, of larger dimensions, with light arched roofs. A kind of colonnade appears to have run BAALBKO. From Labonle, Voyjtge alon" the front of these apartments, supporting in its centre a level with the hexagonal court already mentioned, are two vaulted parallel passages, running E. and W., and connected with a third passage running N. and S. The walls of these passages, and a semicircular arch which rests upon them, are composed of large blocks closely fitted, and of admirable work manship. Immediately to the W. is a space 283 ft. long, by 1 18 wide, once the site of a magnificent temple. It appears to have had a peristyle of Corinthian columns, 10 in front, and 19 on the sides. Six of them still remain, of exquisite proportions, and colossal dimensions. They are 7 ft. in diameter, and, with their pedestals, are 7 1 ft. high. The shafts consist of three pieces, beautifully fitted without cement. The whole height, including the entablature and a fine cornice above the columns, is nearly 80 ft. A little to the S. there is a smaller but more perfect temple, in the form of a quadrangle, 225 ft. by 118 ft., with a peristyle of Corinthian columns, 45 ft. high, 19 ft. in circuit, and 9 ft. apart. They were surmounted by a bold cornice 7 ft. high, and connected with the wall by a stone ceiling finely sculptured. The entrance to this temple is through an exquisitely carved doorway, 26 ft. high by 20 ft. wide, with a staircase on each side leading to the summit. The interior, 118 ft. by 65 ft., had niches on each side, and two screens, behind the innermost of which the object of worship is supposed to have been placed. The roof has fallen in, and the floor lies covered with a confused mass of sculptured frag ments. The substructure of these monuments consists of pon derous hewn masses of such prodigious size, that one is lost in astonishment as to the mechanical means by which they could be removed from the quarry to their place. The largest of them is 67 ft. long, 14 ft. broad, and 9 ft. thick. Another, still more gigantic, lies in the great quarry about three quar ters of a mile from the town, almost separated from the rock preparatory to its removal. There are other interesting ruins in Baalbec besides those alluded to, and the entire neighbour hood, for several miles round, is covered with them. The history of Baalbec is very obscure, but there is evidence of its having been a place of im portance in the time of Antoni nus Pius, under the name of Heliopolis, and in all probability for ages before. It was the sta tion of a garrison in the time of Augustus, and was then a great and wealthy city. By whom it was first founded, however, is unknown, neither has it been as certained when its temples were erected. Although gradually de clining through a long series of years, its decay, latterly, was peculiarly rapid. In 1751, its , structure of considerable extent, on which one of the altars of population amounted to 5000; in 1835, it had fallen to 200. Baal is supposed to have stood. Beneath this court, and on a i The whole town presents now a most wretched appearance. BAAMBKUGGE 285 BAB-EL-MANDEB The inhabitants manufacture white cotton cloth to a smal extent, and have some dyeing-houses. There were also, unti within these few years, several tanneries in the town. The pro PoancUM OF THE LITTLE TEMPLE, BAALBKC. From Luborde. Voyage en Orient. perty of the people consists chiefly of cows, with a few goats and sheep. Baalbec mules are much esteemed. Pop. (1835), 200. BAAMBRUGGE, a vil. Holland, prov. of, and 12 m. N.W. Utrecht, 1. bank, Krommen-Angstel, having a small Calvim stic church and two schools. Being on the main road from Utrecht to Amsterdam, there is considerable traffic through it. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in cattle- rearing, and in the cheese and butter trade. Pop. 700. BAAU. 1, An extensive dist. Baden, forming the chief part of the principality of Fiirstenburg. It lies in the Black Forest, partly in the Lake and partly in the Danube circle, and, besides numerous villages, contains 10 towns. It is very hilly, but a good deal of grain is grown on its lower grounds, while the higher yield excellent pasture. The horses reared on it are in high repute. A great many of the inhabitants are clockmakers. 2, BAAR, or BAR, a tn. Switzerland, can. of, and 2 m. N. Zug, on the road to Zurich, in a fertile plain, 1380 ft. above the sea. The townhall is a handsome edifice, built in 1674. There is a large paper-manufactory here, and a considerable trade is carried on with the surrounding district. The vine is cultivated, and fairish wine produced. Pop. 2 135. BA ARDWIJK, a pleasant vil. Holland, prov. N. Brabant, 10 m. E. Geertruidenburg, founded, say some, by the Danes, say others by the Longobards. It has a R. catholic and a Calvinistic church, a small almshouse for old men, a school, and a cornmill. Pop. chiefly agricultural, 1153. BAARLAND, a vil. Holland, prov. Zeeland Island, S. Beveland, 14 m. S.E. Arnemuiden, in the middle of a fertile country and richly-watered meadows. It has a good-looking church, with a lofty spire, a school, and a pop. of 500. BAARLE, BAARLE-NASSAU, or BAAL, a vil. Holland, prov. N. Brabant, 12 m. S.S.E. Breda, on the Belgian frontier, so closely connected with Baarle-Hertog in Belgium, prov. Antwerp, that the two in fact make but one village. Of two contiguous houses, one is frequently in Holland, and the other in Belgium, and some even being built exactly on the line of demarcation between the two countries, have the frontier mark on their gables and chimney-stalks. It has two churches, some church, which is adorned with a lofty spire. It is an old place and was formerly a town. Pop. 900. BABA, the name of several towns in different parts of the world, of two capes in Asiatic Turkey, and of two islands in the Asiatic Archipelago: 1, A tn. Turkey in Asia, on a shelving point of Cape Baba, on the Grecian Archipelago, immediately above the sea ; lat. 39 30 5" N. ; Ion. 26 5 E. It is ill built, and the houses mean- looking, being constructed of iinburnt brick. It contains a mosque and a half-ruined castle, and was at one time celebrated for the manufacture of knives and sword-blades, which were held in high esteem by the Turks. This trade has now much fallen off, though a portion of it yet remains, the yataghans of Baba being still famous. The port, which is in front of the town, and formed of large fragments of rock, is capable of admitting small boats only. Large vessels, however, frequently anchor in the road stead, under shelter of the cape, during the prevalence of N. winds. The inhabitants are occupied chiefly in pastoral pur suits, raising cattle, the pasturage both on the high and low grounds being excellent, and in growing valonia, which they export in large quantities. Pop. 4000. 2, A tn. Turkey in Europe, Upper Wallachia, 1. bank, Ketniste ; lat. 44 5 N. ; Ion. 25 53 E. Pop. 2000. 3, A tn. Turkey in Europe, prov. Trikala or Thessaly, r. bank, Salembria, and about 9 m. from its embouchure in the Gulf of Salonika, 14 m. N.N.E. La- rissa. 4, A tn. Ecuador, dep. of, and 42 m. N. Guayaquil, at the N. extremity of Lake Sanboramban. Pop. 4000.- - 5, and 6, Two capes in Asiatic Turkey, one on the S. shore of the Black Sea; lat. 41 20 54" N.; Ion. 31 26 E. (R.) ; the other, the Lectrum Promontorium of the ancients, 011 the E. shore of the Grecian Archipelago ; lat. 39 28 12" N. ; Ion. 26 2 30" E. (R.); on the N. side of the Gulf of Adramyti. ?, An isl. in the Banda Sea, Indian Archipelago. See BABBEK. 8, One of the Aiou islands (which see). BABABEG, SHUHRE-BABIC, or SHEHER-E-BABEC, a tn. Persia, prov. Kerman ; lat. 29 53 N. ; Ion. 55 3 E. ; for merly a flourishing city, and the depot of merchandise passing from Gombroon, on the Persian Gulf, into the interior, but .ow much decayed. It has four gates, and from each a long street leads to the market-place in the centre, the dome over which is said to be the largest in Persia. It is the residence of the deputy-governor of Kerman, and celebrated for its fruit- gardens. BABA-DAGH, a fortified tn. Turkey in Europe (Bul garia), pash. Silistria, built by the Turkish Sultan, Bajazet; "at. 44 53 N. ; Ion. 28 40 E. The streets are paved, but dirty ; it has five mosques, two public baths, and a college ; nd carries on a considerable trade through the port of Kara Kerman, an outlet of Lake liassein, on the Black Sea. Pop. 10,000. BABAKANDA, a tn. Fellattah country, W. Africa; at. 10 2 N. ; Ion. 2 55 E. It contains a royal residence, n which the king or chief of the district frequently resides, jrood crops of rice and other kinds of grain are produced in he vicinity ; very large yams and edible bulbous plants are cultivated ; and ginger is abundant. Cattle are plentiful, hough of inferior appearance. The chief manufacture of the )lace is leather, and wretched sabres, which retain whatever )end is given them. Pop. 9000 or 10,000. (Duncan s Travels in W. Africa.} BABBER, or BABA, an isl., S. Moluccas, 69 m. W. Timor Laut ; lat. (E. point) 7 52 S. ; Ion. 129 53 E. It is hilly, and in its W. end is the village Tepa, off which is good inchorage, during the E. monsoon, in 14 to 16 fathoms. The greater part of the island is covered with natural wood, ind abounds in wild cattle, pigs, and goats. Very little of it s cultivated, the inhabitants raising their Egyptian wheat, :ocoa-nuts, &c., in the small fertile island of Wetang, lying W. of Babber. The people are poor, and are visited once a ear by vessels from Banda, for the purpose of trading. BABCARY, par. Eng. Somerset ; 2450 ac. Pop. 465. BABEL ISLAND, an isl. Bass s Strait, contiguous to the E. point of Great Island ; lat. 39 57 S. ; Ion. 148 20 E. (R.) BAB-EL-MANDEB [The gate of tears], the straits at he entrance to the Red Sea, from the Gulf of Aden, formed as many schools, two horse and cattle-markets, and an agri- | by approaching points of Arabia and Abyssinia, about 15 m. cultural pop. of 500. I broad at the narrowest part ; and divided into two channels of BAARN, a vil. Holland, prov. of, and 12 m. N.E. Utrecht, j unequal breadth, by the small island of Perim, lying near the pleasantly situated, and built round the large, old. but hand- I Arabian coast; lat. (S. point) 12 38 N. ; Ion. 43 23 E. (R.) BAB-EL-MANDEB (SEA OF) BACCARAT The E. or Little Strait, between Perim and the Arabian coast, about 3 in. in width, with from 9 to 14 fathoms water, is the most frequented, notwithstanding the greater rapidity of its current, being free from shoals, and its moderate depth allow ing anchorage. The W. channel, or the Greater Strait, be tween Perim and the Abyssinian shore, is about 12 m. wide, but much obstructed by rocks and islets. At the narrowest part, Cape Bab-el-Mandeb projects from the Arabian coast, in lat. 12 41 N.; Ion. 43 27 E. (u.) BAB-EL-MANDEB (SEA OF). Sec ADEN (GULP OF). BABENHAUSEN. 1, A tn. Bavaria, circle, Swabia, 1. bank, Giinz, 34 m. S.W. Augsburg. It has a handsome palace, the residence of the Fugger family, the celebrated banker princes, and an agricultural population of 1711. 2, A vil. grand duchy of Hesse-Darmstadt, prov. Starken- burg, 1. bank, Gesprenz, 19 m. S.E. Frankfort-on-the-Main. It contains an ancient castle, formerly the residence of the Counts of Hanau-Lichtenberg, now a military house of cor rection; and a Lutheran parish church, built in the 16th cen tury, with statues of popes and bishops ; also a brickwork and a gluework. Pop. nearly all Lutherans, 1650. BABIACORA, a tn. Mexico, state, Sonora, 1. bank, Souora, 50 m. S.S.W. Arispe. BABINAGrtEDA, a large vil. Austria, Sclavonia, dist. of, and about 30 m. E. Brod, between the morasses of Berava and Koniska. It contains a R. catholic parish church, and an old castle. Pop. 4185. BABINGLEY, or BABURGHLEY, par. Eng. Norfolk; 870 ac. The first Christian church in E. Anglia was erected here. Pop. 54. BABINGTON, par. Eng. Somerset; 600 ac. Pop. 163. BABRAHAM, par. Eng. Cambridge; 2350 ac. Pop. 217 BABUAN, an isl. Sooloo Archipelago, about 20 m. N.E. Tawi-tawi ; lat. 5 20 N. ; Ion. 120 4 E. BABUYANES, or BATANES, a group of small islands, N. the island of Luzon, and S. of Formosa, between lat. 18 52 and 19 36 N.; and Ion. 121 6 and 123 12 E., separated on the N. from the Bashee Islands by the Strait of Balintang. They consist of numerous rocky islets, and the five larger islands of Calayan, Claro, Babuyan, Camiguin, Dalupiri, and Fuga ; some of which are volcanic. Camiguin, which is one of the largest of them, abounds in sulphur, and has a port called San Pio Quinto. The inhabitants of these islands, who are tall and well made, and have but an indifferent character for honesty, are not subjected to tribute, on account of their extreme poverty ; only contributing a little tortoise-shell, and a small number of other articles. The natural products are wax, ebony, bananas, and cocoa-nuts. (Mallat s Philippines.) BABWORTH, par. Eng. Notts; 5490 ac. Pop. 577. BABYLON, or BABEL, an anc. city, Assyria, cap. Chaldea, on a branch of the Euphrates, wnich divided the city into two parts. Although once the most famous city in the world, so complete has been its annihilation that its very site has be come matter of doubt. Rich, Niebuhr, and Rennel suppose it to have been near the modern town of Hillah, about 48 m. S. Bagdad, containing about 12,000 inhabitants, chiefly Arabs and Jews, and the residence of a Turkish bey. According to Herodotus, the city was of a square form, each side measuring 15 m., and of course the four sides 60 in. It was encompassed with walls built of burnt bricks, cemented with bitumen, 350 ft. high and 87 ft. thick, and with 250 towers, 100 gates of brass, and protected on the outside by a vast ditch filled with water, and proportioned in width and depth to the eleva tion of the walls. Streets, 50 in number, stretched across the city, intersecting each other at right angles, and terminating at the different gates. The river, traversing it from N. to S., was lined with quays of the same thickness as the walls, and crossed by bridges of great beauty and admirable contrivance, each about 200 yards long and 10 broad. The whole city contained 676 squares, each 2J m. in circumference. It is difficult to conceive a more thorough destruction than that by which Babylon has been overtaken. The city enclosed large tracts of pasture and arable land, sufficient to support the whole population during a long siege. Amongst the ruins of Babylon, three mounds attract particular attention. First, Birs Nemroud, or Nim rod s Tower (called by the Jews Nebu chadnezzar s Prison), the most remarkable and stupendous mass of all the ruins. It is a huge oblong edifice, 762 ft. in circumference, situated about 6 m. S.W. of Hillah, on the W. bank of the Euphrates. It has been generally supposed to be a remnant of the great pile of Babel, but more properly belonged to the city of Birs, Bursif, or Borsippa, one of the quarters of the Babylon of Herodotus. Second, El-Kasr, the castle or palace, consisting of several ruined walls and piers, which face the cardinal points, and contain many caves and passages. These walls are 8 ft. thick; in some places orna mentcd with niches, and in others strengthened by pilasters and buttresses, built of fine-burnt brick, still perfectly clear :uid sharp, laid in lime cement, of such tenacity that it is almost impossible to extract a whole brick. (Rich.) Third, The MujelibS, or the Overturned, an extensive mound, of oblong shape and irregular height, also facing the four cardinal points. The elevation of its highest angle is 141 ft. Rich thinks that, in some respects, the Mujelibe corresponds to the accounts of the celebrated hanging-gardens of Babylon ; which, according to Strabo, formed a square of 400 ft. on each face, and stood upon the river, that supplied them with water. But, from the circumstance of skeletons and wooden coffins being found in this mass of ruins, it is conjectured to have been a great brick pyramid for the dead, and perhaps also used for an observatory. The surrounding country is a desert, in habited only by some wandering Arab tribes, and periodically subject to inundations. At one period, immense canals, inter secting the plain of Babylon, connected the waters of the Euphrates with the Tigris. Besides the ancient capital of Chaldea, there appears to have been another city of the same name in Egypt, on the site of which old Cairo is built. (D Anville s Gco.; Rich s Memoir; Kennel s Geo. of Herodotus; Porter s Travels; Mignan s Travels in Chaldea; Niebuhr, Voyage en Arable.) BABYLONIA, the name of an ancient kingdom, which comprehended a narrow tract along the Euphrates, extending about 154 m. from the modern town of Sheikh el-Shuyukh N.W. to the ruins of Babylon, and thence, in the same direc tion, 287 m. to Kalneh on the Khabur. Its E. boundary was Assyria, and thus it included the greater part of what was afterwards called Mesopotamia. The name Babylonia still remains, and is more particularly applied to the S.E. portion of the pashalic of Bagdad. BABY PULO, three islands, Indian Archipelago [Ptilo signifying island "] : 1, An isl., E. the N.E. entrance into the Strait of Sunda; lat. (W. point) 5 48 S. ; Ion. 106 17 E. (R.) It is woody and bold, excepting at the E. end. 2, A small isl. off the S.W. extremity of Wetter Island, at the N. entrance of the Ombay Passage ; lat. 8 5 S. ; Ion. 125 40 E. It is high and bold to approach on the W. side. The passage be tween it and Wetter is said to be unsafe. 3, A small isl. between the islands of Ceram and Booro, but much nearer the former than the latter; lat. 3 10 S. ; Ion. 127 50 E. The passage channel between Baby Pulo and Ceram is narrow, and fit for proas and small vessels only. BACALAR, or SAN FELIPE DE BACALAK [anc. Sala manca], a vil. Yucatan, on the N.W. extremity of a small lake of the same name, where it receives the San Joseph, about 86 m. N.N.W. Belize. It contains about 120 houses, inhab ited chiefly by Indians, and is much frequented by English smugglers. BACALHAO, an isl. off the S.E. coast, Newfoundland ; lat. (N. point) 48 9 N. ; Ion. 52 52 W. (R.) It is high, nearly 4 m. long and 1 broad, and is distant about 1 m. from the mainland, with a good channel between. BACAMARTE, a vil. Brazil, prov. Parahiba, 16 m. from Campina-Grande. It lies in the hills of the same name, and its inhabitants are chiefly engaged in cultivating cotton. BACCARAT [anc. Burgaracum], a tn. France, dep. Meurthe, arrond. of, and 16 m. S.E. Luneville, on the Meurthe, which is here crossed by a bridge of nine arches. It is noted for its extensive manufacture of crystal, which affords employment to upwards of 1000 workmen. The method of moulding crystal in imitation of cut glass was invented here, by M. Ishmael Robinet, in 1823. Baccarat has also manu factures of calicoes and cotton stuffs, tanneries, sawmills, and a chemical work, for the preparation of soda, muriatic acid, chloride of lime, manganese, &c. An annual fair is held in July, for grain and cattle, and a considerable trade is done in timber. Pop. 2794. BACCIIIGLIONE 287 BADAJOZ BACCHIGLIONE, a river, Austrian Italy, gov. Venice. It rises about 13 m. N. Vicenza, passes that city and Padua, (lowing S. and S.E., and falls into the Gulf of Venice in lat. 45 8 N. ; Ion. 12 17 E., about 3 m. S. Chioggia, after a course of about 65 m. BACHARACH, a tn. Prussia, prov. Lower Rhine, 1. bank, Rhine, 29m. S. Coblentz. It is a place of great an tiquity, surrounded by an old wall, flanked with towers, which have a picturesque effect. It is said to have been originally a Roman fort, and to take its name from a rock in the river, called Bacclii-ara [altar of Bacchus] , which, though usually under water, becomes exposed in very dry seasons, and is then hailed as the harbinger of a good vintage. The chief things worthy of notice in Bachar.ach are the romantic remains of an old church, called Werner s Church, on a steep acclivity above the town; and its wine, which, though produced in limited quantity, the only soil fit for it being confined to scat tered patches among the rocks, has been celebrated for centuries. Besides the culture of the vine, a manufactory of morocco and common leather gives employment to the in habitants, amounting to about 1900. BACHIAN. See BATSHIAN. BACK STAIRS PASSAGE, the E. entrance into the Gulf of St. Vincent, S. Australia, formed by the E. end of Kangaroo Island, and Cape Jervis on the mainland. It is about 7 m. wide, and has some islands, called the Pages, at its entrance ; but the passage is safe, with from 9 to 15, and 17 fathoms. BACK S RIVER, the name now given, in honour of Capt. Back, to a river originally called the Thleweechodezeth or Great Fish River, British N. America, N.W. territory. It rises in Sussex Lake, near the N.E. extremity of Lake Aylmer, in lat. 64 15 N., and Ion. 108 10 W., and proceeds N.N.E., through a region of sand and granite, to lat. 65 30 N., then turns suddenly S., and makes a long circular sweep towards the S.E., passing over numerous rapids. Near lat. 65 10 N. and Ion. 104 W., it again turns N., and enters Lakes Pelly and Garry; on emerging from which it is broken by a series of falls and rapids, and resuming its original course of N.N.E., continues it to its mouth in a bay, supposed to be part of Boothia Gulf, lat. 67 N. ; Ion. 95 W. The whole tract through which the river flows is sometimes called Back s Land. BACKERGUNGE. 1, A dist. Hindoostan, prov. Ben gal, on the coast between the Ganges and the Brahmapootra, and including part of the deltas of these rivers, and having the Sunderbunds or Soondurbuns on the S.W. Tigers and alliga tors are numerous here, and attain an immense size. The dis trict is in many parts exceedingly fertile, producing annually two abundant crops of rice, but is subject to destructive inun dations; that which occurred in June 1822 destroyed 10,000 persons. It was much infested, also, by Dacoits or river pirates; but, by the perseverance of the British authorities, they have been almost wholly put down. More than one-half of the inhabitants are Hindoos, the remainder Mahometans. Area, 3794 sq. m. Pop. 733, 800. 2, A tn., same dist., 120m. E. Calcutta; lat. 22 42 N.; Ion. 89 20 E. BACKFORD, par. Eug. Chester; 3320 ao. Pop. 556. BACKNANG, a tn. Wiirtemberg, circle, Necker, 16 m. N.E. Stuttgardt, on the Murr; contains a collegiate church, with the tombs of the first Margraves of Baden, and has manufactures of woollen and linen goods, and some tanneries. Pop. 3587. . BACKOFEN, a market tn. Bohemia, circle, Bunzlau, 1. bank, Iser, 35 m. N.E. Prague. It is governed by its own magistracy, and contains a townhouse, two churches, and an hospital. In the Thirty Years War, it was pillaged by the Swedes. Pop. 1010. BACKWELL, or BACHWELL, par. Eng. Somerset; 2750 ac. Pop. 1161. BACOLOR, a tn., isl. Luzon, cap. prov. Pampanga, about 38 m. N.W. Manilla; in a plain, and near the river Pampanga, with which it has communication by means of a Ion. 69 20 W.; when, assuming the name of Guanaparo, it falls into the Portuguesa, in lat. 8 5 N.; Ion. 68 W. BACON8THORPE, par. Eng. Norfolk; 1460 ac. P. 326. BACQUEVILLE, a tn. France, dep. Seine-Inferieure, llm. S.W. Dieppe. It manufactures stockings, serges, and bed-ticking; and has some trade in cattle. Pop. 1494. i BACS, or BATSCH, a market tn., S.E. Hungary, co. Bacs- Bodrogh, 27 m. S. Zomhor, near the Mosztonga marsh; lat. 45 24 N.; Ion. 19 20 E. It was formerly a royal free town, and the see of a R. Catholic and Greek bishop. The transit trade is considerable. Pop. 2770. BACS-BODROGIIER, a co., S. Hungary, circle, beyond the Danube. It contains three free towns, nine market towns, and 96 villages ; is one of the largest counties in the circle, and forms part of the great alluvial, often swampy, and consequently unhealthy tract, which lies between the Theiss and the Danube. It is bounded N. by the Franzens Canal, so called after the Emperor Francis. The soil is very fertile, and produces in abundance wheat, tobacco, and wine. The lakes are numerous, and teem with fish. From the largest of them, Lake Palics, large quantities of alkali are obtained. Fuel is scarce ; and the only substitute possessed by the greater part of the population is cow-dung, mixed with straw. In this county is an entrenchment, attributed to the Romans, which is several miles long. Area, 3625 sq. m. Pop. nearly 500,000. BACTON, three pars. Eng.: 1, Hereford ; 950 ac. P. 140. 2, Norfolk; 1730 ac. P. 513. 3, Suffolk; 2380 ac. P.800. BACUP, a vil. and chapelry, England, Lancashire. The VILLAGE, in a beautiful valley, 12 m. E. by S. Blackburn, and a station of the East Lancashire Railway, contains a church, two Baptist and two Methodist chapels, and a mechanics institution. Here are brass and iron foundries, a large corn-mill, and three considerable dye-works ; but the principal manufactures consist of cotton-spinning, and power- Joom- weaving. Pop. 7279. BADAGRY, a tn. of W. Africa, Bight of Benin; lat. 6 24 12" N.; Ion. 2 53 15" W. (R.) ; 60 m. E. Whydah, and 315m. E.N.E. Cape Coast Castle, on the inner side of a lagoon, two-thirds of a mile from the landing-place. Pop. 10,OUO. BADAJO/ [anc. Pax Julia; Arab. JJdedaix\, a tn. Spain, cap. prov. of same name, Estremadura, about 5 m. from the E. frontiers of Portugal. It stands on a tongue of land formed canal. It was the capital of the Philippines during the British In December, January, and February, invasion in 1762. fever is prevalent. Pop. tn. and environs, 8548. BACONO, a river, Venezuela, rises in a mountainous district, about 10 m. S.E. Truxillo; lat. 8 52 N. ; Ion. 70 20 W.; whence it flows S. and S.E., to lat. 8 N.; 1. St. Vincent* 2. St. Joseph. 3. St. Jaga. Reference to Bastions, &c.: 14. St. John. 6. St. Roque. . Santa Maria, 7. Trinidad. 8. Peter del Pilgrli 9. Catliedral. by the junction of the Rivillas and the Guadiana; the former enclosing it on the N. and E., and the latter on the N.W., where it is crossed by a superb granite bridge of 28 arches. Badajoz is a regular fortress, of remarkable strength. For midable walls and bastions, with a wide and deep fosse, sur round it on all sides ; while a series of important outworks, placed partly on the tongue of land and partly on the opposite BADAJOZ 288 BADEN (GRAND DUCHY) banks of the rivers, adds greatly to its means of defence. The highest part of the site in the N., near the Rivillas, is occupied by an old Moorish castle, from which point the ground slopes gradually to the E., S., and W., and is intersected by numerous streets, which, though very indifferently paved, are in general spacious, clean, and lined with well-built houses, many of them of three stories, with balconied, and painted or white washed fronts, which have a cheerful appearance. As a whole, however, the town is said to be dull, and to have few social attractions, beyond a fine promenade along the banks of the river. The principal building is the cathedral, begun in 1248, but possessed of no architectural merit. The facade, which is of a later date, is in the Graco-Roman style, with Ionic pillars, and a statue of the Baptist. The interior is adorned with some fine paintings by Mateo Cerezo and Luis Morales, the latter of whom, surnamed El Divino, was born here, and gives name to a street. In addition to the cathedral are four parish churches, two of which, the Conception and St. Augus tine, also contain several paintings by Morales. The other principal buildings are the arsenal ; the military hospital, with beds for 220 patients; the college (seminario conciliar], well endowed, and provided with a full establishment of professors ; the theatre, and the prison, a large building, very imperfectly ventilated. Badajoz is the seat of a bishop, and at one time abounded in ecclesiastical establishments, many of which have been suppressed. Four nunneries, and some monasteries, still re main. As the capital of the province, it is also the residence of a captain-general, and contains several courts and public offices. Its chief charity is the extensive and well-endowed Hospicio de Nostra Sefiora de la Piedad, founded in 1757. The manufactures are of little importance, consisting of a few linen and woollen stuffs, china, and leather. There is some trade by the river, and a little transit by muleteers. The importance of Badajoz as a frontier fortress has subjected it to repeated sieges. Those which took place during the penin sular war are well known, particularly the last, in April 1812, one of the most murderous on record, in which the British prowess, so eminently displayed, was unhappily tarnished by the brutal scenes which succeeded it. Pop. 11,715. BADAJOZ, n prov. Spain, Estremadura, bounded, N. by prov. Ciiceres, E. Ciudad Real, S.E. and S. Cordova, Seville, and Huella, and W. Portugal ; area, 10,580 sq. m. The sur face is very much diversified. Numerous mountain-ridges, ramifications of the sierra Morena, traverse it in different directions, but between these, and along the banks of the rivers, are extensive tracts of rich alluvial soil, particularly one called Barros, which is celebrated throughout Spain for its remarkable fertility. The mountainous tracts are well wooded with oak, ash, and other trees ; which are not only extensively used for fuel, but furnish good timber, while the acorns and the mast feed large herds of swine. Too much of the province is said to be devoted to pasture ; and the parts under cultivation, owing to a very imperfect system of man agement, are far less productive than might be expected, from their natural fertility. The chief river is the Guadiana, which traverses the province E. to W., and receives several tribut aries within it. The manufactures consist chiefly of soap, coarse linen, leather, and a few other articles of home con sumption ; the trade is chiefly internal, and as yet insignificant, though a great addition is anticipated from a railroad which is intended to connect Badajoz with Seville. The mines registered within the province amount to 84 ; among which are one of gold, 10 of silver, and several of cinnabar or quick silver. The greater proportion, however, are of lead and copper, though many even of these have ceased to be pro ductive. The climate, particularly in the lower districts, is both hot and damp, and intermittent fevers are very prevalent. The province, for administrative purposes, is divided into 15 districts ; and, ecclesiastically, forms a diocese of same name, whose bishop is suffragan to Santiago. Pop. 336, J 36. BADAKSHAN. See BUDUKSHAN. BADALONA, a tn. Spain, in Catalonia, prov. -of, and 7 m. N.E. Barcelona; in a fertile plain, 1. bank, Besos, near its embouchure in the Mediterranean Sea. It has two squares, an ancient parish church, two schools, several fountains, and a ruined convent, of the order of St. Jerome, burned in the late war. Cotton-weaving and silk-dyeing are carried on, agricultural produce is exported, and, besides husbandry, the inhabitants are engaged in fishing and seafaring. Pop. 5000- BADAUMY, a hill-fort, Hindoostan, prov. Bejapoor, 55 m. N.E. Darwar ; considered one of the strongest forts in India ; lat. 15 55 N. ; Ion. 75 49 E. It was taken by the British, under Sir Thomas Munro, in 1818, although it had previously successfully resisted the efforts of an entire Maha- ratta army. The neighbourhood presents an extraordinary assemblage of huge disconnected rocks, piled on each other, and scattered about in the wildest confusion. BADBY, par. Eng. Northampton; 2370 ac. Pop. 624. BADDESLEY, three pars. Eng. : 1, Baddesley (North], Hants; 2570 ac. Pop. 302. 2, Baddesley Clinton, War wick; 1140 ac. Pop. 115. 3, Baddesley- Ensor, a parochial chapelry, Warwick; 1340 ac. Pop. 579. BADDILEY, par. Eng. Chester; 2080 ae. Pop. 275. BADDOW, two pars. Eng.: 1, Baddow (Great), Essex; 4030 ac. Pop. 2022. 2, Baddmo (Little), Essex; 1830 ac. Pop. 592. BADEBORN, a tn. Germany, duchy of Anhalt-Bernburg, dist. of, and about 5 m. from Ballenstadt. It is a tolerably well-built thriving place, and has two gates. Pop. 1210. BADEN (GRAND DDCHY OF), the seventh state of the Germanic Confederation, in the S.W. corner of Germany, be tween lat. 47 and 49 N., and Ion. 25 and 27 E. ; bounded, N. by Hesse -Darmstadt and Bavaria, E. by Wiirtemberg and an interjected portion of Hohenzollern, S. by Switzerland, and W. by France. It is of very irregular form, and has no proper natural boundaries. On the W., and part of the S., its contour is defined by the Rhine ; but in other directions it is much indented and mixed up with other states. It may be described as a long stripe of land stretching N.E. to S.W., narrowest at the centre, widening considerably towards the N., and much more towards the S. base. The line through its centre, and forming a slight curve, with its convexity E., is about 175 m. Its breadth varies from 13 m., where it is nar rowest, a little to the N. of Baden town, to 85 m. Its area, owing to its extreme irregularity, is not easily calculated ; but, according to the latest measurements, is 4456 geo. sq. m., sub divided into four circles, viz., the Lake Circle in the S.E., and the circles of the Upper, the Middle, and the Lower Rhine, in the S., W., centre, and N., respectively. The surface is occu pied as follows: Arable land, 2,179,375 ac.; meadows and pastures, 993,795 ac. ; wood, 2,234,850 ac. ; vineyards, 127,780 ac.; gardens, 89,930 ac.; waste, 31,700 ac. The remainder is occupied by water, buildings, streets, roads, &c. Physical Features. Baden is decidedly mountainous, being traversed to a considerable extent by the lofty plateau of the Schwarzwald or Black Forest, which, commencing in the circle of the Upper Rhine, between Basel and Waldshut, pro- eeeds in a N. direction, forming, by its W. side, the range of romantic precipices which bound the valley of the Rhine, while its E. side slopes much more gradually. Its highest points are the Feldberg, 4675 ft. in height; the Belchen, 4642 ft.; Blossling, 4380 ft. ; Hochkopf, 4333 ft. ; Kohegarten, 4039 ft. ; Hochfiirst, 4000 ft. ; and the Faulenfiirst, 3553 ft. Another range, of no great elevation, though somewhat precipitous, called the Heiligenberg, attains its greatest height in the vicinity of Heidelberg. In addition to these ranges, are the two smaller groups of the Kaiserstuhl and the Odenwald. The former has an isolated position, and appears to have at one time belonged to an island. Its greatest height is about 1 916 ft. The Odenwald is usually regarded as a continuation of the Black Forest, with which it merges imperceptibly, and, stretching N. into Bavaria and Hesse-Darmstadt, flattens down by a series of gentle slopes, and disappears. The nucleus of the Black Forest and Heiligenberg consists of gneiss and granite, usually overlain, S.W. by Jura limestone, E. by red sandstone, which often forms extensive tracts, and occasion ally appears in isolated masses, and N.E. by Alpine limestone. The Kaiserstulil is evidently of volcanic formation. The Oden wald is composed, for the most part, of red sandstone. In the W., however, there is some gneiss, granite, and sienite; and in the S., Alpine and shell limestone. These mountains are intersected by valleys of more or less extent, which, occasion ally cutting the Black Forest transversely, reach its E. side. In the S., the valleys are generally short, with a rapid declivity towards the N.W. In the N. they are much longer, and have, in general, a much more gradual descent. BADEN (GKAND DUCHV) 289 BADEN (GIUND DUCHY) Rivers and Lakes. Baden belongs entirely to the basins of the Rhine and the Danube ; the former draining the far larger portion of the surface, while the latter occupies only a small portion of the S.E. corner, where it takes its rise, and merely runs the few first miles of its mountain course. The torrents which rush down the steep sides of the Black Forest, hastening into the Rhine, are almost without number ; but its chief affluents within Baden are the Neckar, Kinzig, Pfinz, Alb, Murg, Elz, Weissen, and Wutach. Baden abounds in lakes. A considerable part of the Lake of Constance, and the whole of the Uberlingersee and Zellersee, belong to it, with a great number of others, which, though small, are by no means inconsiderable. Minerals and Mineral Springs. The variety of minerals is very great, but the number of those which exist in such quantity as to be workable to profit is comparatively small. Gold is still occasionally washed from the sands of the Rhine, and the Black Forest contains numerous veins of silver, which, in earlier times, were extensively wrought, and maintained several silver furnaces. Copper is still produced from the mine of Herrensegen, cobalt near Wittich, manganese near Eisen- bach, lead in the Minister valley, and calamine near Wiesloch. These, however, are all surpassed in value by the iron mines, which are worked to the number of 30, and employ 15 smelting furnaces. In addition to these, may be mentioned coal, rock- salt, gypsum, alabaster, marble, whetstones, alum, sulphur, potters and porcelain clay, ochre, and occasionally garnets and agates. In mineral springs, Baden is particularly rich. The number of them has been estimated at 70, and of these not a few are of great celebrity, attracting to the different watering-places to which they have given rise, crowds of visit ors from all parts of the world. Climate and Vegetable Productions. The climate of Baden varies, of course, with the nature of the surface. While in the valleys and plains all the ordinary fruits are coming to ma turity, cold winter blasts are often felt among the mountains ; a nd there are even ravines on the sides of the Feldberg from which the snow seldom entirely disappears. Some observa tions seem to indicate, that in the region of the Feldberg the seasons are becoming colder, and that the formation of glaciers upon it is by no means impossible. In the Black Forest the grape no longer ripens, and on the loftiest summits of the Feldberg ordinary pines and larches have ceased to thrive. Even a few hundred feet above the base, they begin to be scraggy and stunted. The summit now exhibits only patches of grass and Iceland moss, while its lofty sides are chiefly occupied by the alpine rose and bilberry. The open valleys of Baden, in the S., are much warmer than in the N. The E. side, and also the Odenwald, are cold, lying exposed to the blasts of the Swabian Alps, and extensive tracts of table-land, where as yet the labours of the husbandman have done little to mitigate the natural rigour of the seasons. The finest cli mate of Baden, and, indeed, of Germany, is in the valley of the Rhine. Here winter is short, and spring early; the heats of summer are tempered by evaporation from the river and the lakes ; the fields are covered with rich crops, and all the ordinary fruit-bearing plants and trees, particularly the vine and the chestnut, grow in luxuriance. Indeed, the vegetation throughout Baden is peculiarly rich, and manifests itself espe cially in the magnificent forests which line many of its valleys, and clothe its mountain sides, furnishing supplies, both of fuel and excellent timber, which are almost inexhaustible. The mean annual temperature of Baden, taken at Mannheim, is 51 40 ; at Carlsruhe, 51 48 . At Freiburg, which is in the neighbourhood of the Black Forest, and lies exposed to alpine blasts, the temperature is somewhat lower. One peculiarity in the climate of Baden is the frequency of hailstorms in the district of the Kaiserstuhl, and the hurricanes which proceed from the direction of Strasburg. Agriculture. Baden is quite an agricultural country, the arable land occupying rather more than a third of the whole surface. The annual produce of grain is estimated at 1,390, 125 quarters, of which rather more than one-half is spelt or German wheat; about one-fifth oats, one-ninth barley, and rather more than one-ninth rye. Large quantities of potatoes are grown throughout the country, and hemp of excellent quality; to bacco and hops in particular districts. The culture of green crops attracts a good deal of attention, and the soiling of stock is generally practised ; but though scarcely a patch of land on VOL. I. which any crop can be raised is allowed to lie waste, and the collection of manure is never lost sight of, the science of agri culture cannot be regarded as far advanced. The operations of the field are often performed in a very slovenly manner, the implements are clumsy in the extreme, and bullocks, and even cows, are employed to do much of the work. The rear ing of cattle forms an important occupation, but superiority of breed is too often regarded as a matter of secondary conse quence. Numerous herds of goats and swine are fed in the Black Forest. The rearing of bees is duly attended to ; that of the silkworm exists, but has not as yet made much pro gress. In regard both to quantity and quality, few countries are richer in wine than Baden. Vineyards occupy a com paratively large extent of its surface, and several of the wines, both white and red, produced in them, rank in the first class. Baden has long been famous for its fruits, among which may be mentioned extensive orchards, or rather forests of apples, pears, chestnuts, and particularly the cherries and plums of the Black Forest, from which are obtained the liquors which, under the name of Kirschwaeser and Zwetschgewasser, are universally known and esteemed. Manufactures and Trade. Of neither of these has Baden much to boast. The whole number of families engaged in occupations immediately connected with the woollen, cotton, and linen manufactures, Las been estimated not to exceed 200. The working of the minerals enumerated above, affords much more extensive occupation ; but perhaps the most important manufacture is that of wooden clocks, con fined chiefly to the districts of the Black Forest, and, con nected with it, the making of musical boxes, and other musical toys, in which extraordinary skill and ingenuity are displayed, and for which prices, amounting from 12,000 to 15,000 florins (1000 to 1250), have been obtained. The chief trade of Baden is derived from its forests. Timber of the finest quality, much of it adapted for shipbuilding, is transmitted to Holland by the Rhine, and by way of Basel, to Switzerland and France ; both of which also take large quantities of charcoal. The only other articles of trade de serving of notice are wine, particularly the Markgrafler, Klingelberger, and Staufenberger ; liqueurs especially Kirsch- wasser; hemp, tobacco, and fruit. Salt is exported in con siderable quantities to Rhenish Prussia and Switzerland. Population and Moral Statistics. The last regular census of the population of Baden was taken in 1839, and gave a total amount of 1,277,365, apportioned among the four circles into which the country is divided in the following manner: Area Population Classified. Total sq. ni. wicks. ishei. Protest-l R. Ca- a,,ts. tboliM. Men- nons. Jtws. lake Circle 984 18 376 7,951 1 173,6;i8 43 1,348 182,979 Upper Rhine Circle. 1248 18 448 94,195 238,482 67 3,613 336,377 Jlidille Ehine Circle 123:1 21 388 151,708 269,334 286 6,011 427,339 Lower Khine Circle 993 22 383 147,991 171,370 913 10,396 330,670 4456 79 1094 401,845|85i,8i4 13,8 21,368 1,277,365 At the date of this census, and for some time previous, the average annual increase of the population of Baden was about 8500. Accordingly, in 1842, allowing for this increase, the total population was estimated at 1,290,146. At present (1850) it cannot be less than 1,300,000. From the above Table, it appears that the proportion which Protestants bear to R. catholics is barely one to two, while the Jews muster unusually strong. The races which inhabit Baden are chiefly two, the Allemanni and the Franks ; the former occupying the territory from the Murg to the Rhine, and the latter the terri tory to the N. of the Murg. The language corresponds to this territorial division ; the Allcmannisch prevailing in the high country, particularly in the valley of the Wiese, and in tolerable purity, though frequently intermixed with Swabian and Frankish. It is spoken with the least adulteration in the Black Forest, whose inhabitants have a character differing decidedly from that of the inhabitants of the valley of the Rhine. The native of the Black Forest is lively, industrious, of an ingenious and somewhat speculative turn, hence fond of trade, and rather too fond of law ; in general religious, but apt to allow his belief to degenerate into superstition. The natives of the Rhine valley are of more mixed character, and differ greatly from each other. Hence the inhabitant of 37 BADEN (GRAND Duciiv) 200 BADEN Brisgau is easily distinguished from that of Old Baden ; who, in his turn, is as easily distinguished from the inhabitant of the Baden palatinate. In general the inhabitants of Baden are robust and healthy, with some tendency to corpulence ; which, however, is said to be less common than formerly. In the more secluded parts of the country, their manners are primitive and their morals pure ; but, on the whole, their character in this respect is not the highest, and contrasts un favourably with that of their Swiss neighbours. Education is very generally diffused, and the means employed for the purpose deserve honourable mention even in Germany. The general charge of public instruction is committed to a board called Oberstudienrath. Every village has at least one primary, and every town a grammar school. Parents are obliged to send their children to the schools, and continue them there for a certain period, or till a certain degree of proficiency is attained. Of a higher order than those already mentioned are numerous seminaries, called real schools, Latin schools, paedagogiums, gymnasiums, and lyceums. At the head of the whole are the two universities of Heidelberg and Freiburg, both of great antiquity, and entitled to an honourable place among the most distinguished universities of Germany. In addition to very complete courses of classics, literature, and science, the former has a Protestant, the latter a R. catholic faculty of theology. In regard to religion, the course of which France has set the example is followed. There is no proper religious establish- i-flt%s&. ment, but every form of religious belief - > is protected, and, where the adherents are of any numerical importance, directly recognized. Government. Baden ranks as the seventh state in the Germanic Confeder ation. It has one vote in the ordinary deliberative assemblies, and three in what is called the plenum. The govern ment is a constitutional monarchy, founded on a liberal representative basis. In its present form it was established in 1818, being voluntarily conceded by the Grand Duke. The states are composed of two chambers. In the upper sit the princes of the Grand Ducal family, the nobles and barons, the Protestant and R. catholic bishops, 14 deputies from the landed gentry, elected for eight years ; two deputies from the universities, elected by the professors, for four years ; and eight individuals nominated by the Grand Duke, at will, from any class. The lower chamber consists of 63 deputies, elected for eight years ; 22 by 14 privileged localities, and the remainder by 41 electoral districts. The members of this chamber, while actually sitting, are allowed about 8*. Qd. per day. The executive belongs entirely to the Grand Duke, who appoints his ministers and councillors, and all the leading functionaries and judges. The supreme civil and criminal court has its territory, and the title of Elector. At the dissolution of the German empire he received additional accessions of territory, and died in 1811; succeeded by his grandson Charles, who married Stephanie, an adopted daughter of Napoleon, and shared largely in the favours of that dynasty. Shortly after giving the constitution of 1818, he was succeeded by his uncle Lewis; who, dying in 1830, made way for his half-brother Leopold, the reigning Duke. Baden has had its share in the recent insurrections which have taken place in Germany. On May 13, 1849, a popular assembly, held at Offenburg, passed a series of violent resolutions, inter alia, dissolving the chambers, and convoking a constituent assembly. Military insubordination also began to appear, and manifested itself so strongly at Carlsruhe that the Grand Duke quitted it, and withdrew into Alsace. Ultimately, by the aid of Prussian troops, but not without a severe engagement with the in surgents, the insurrection was put down, and matters again returned to their former state. (Huhn s Lex. Deutschland.) BADEN, or BAADEN [commonly Baden-Baden; anc. Ciritas Amelia Aquensis], a tn. and watering-place, grand duchy of Baden, circle, Middle Rhine, 18 m. S.S.W. Carls ruhe, one of the most beautiful localities of Europe. It is built in the form of an amphitheatre, on a spur of the Black CAD EX From Fernet, Voyage rtt,ns le Grand Duehe de Bade. Forest, overhanging a valley, through which runs the little stream Oosbach. The houses are, in general, old and high ; the streets, with one exception, narrow and crooked, and nearly all steep and hilly. The finest buildings lie along the river, but there is not a single handsome square. The edifices most deserving of notice are the new palace, standing on an isolated height above the town, on the site of a Roma seat at Mannheim, but the capital of the grand duchy is j temple and baths, and surrounded by fine gardens ; the palace, Carlsruhe. The military quota which Baden furnishes to the and near it the less extensive but prettier villa of the Duchess Germanic Confederation is 10,000 men. The ordinary stand* i Dowager Stephanie; the town church, containing the tombs ing army, including officers, is about 15,000 men. In 1845, j of 14 members of the margraviate house of Baden, and altar- the public revenue was about 1,275,730 ; and the expenditure, 1,207,470. In 1843, the public debt was 2,547,500. screens painted by Lill after Guido Eeni ; the spital church, an old Gothic building now used by the Protestants, and in History. The hereditary possessions of the House of Baden j which also the English service is regularly performed ; and the museum of antiquities, built in the form of an old Grecian temple. Baden is the chief place of a bailiwick, and con tains the different public offices belonging to it. It has also an excellent hospital, a poorhouse, and savings bank. Ita chief manufactures are linen, ropes, and pottery. Baden has been celebrated, from the remotest antiquity, for its thermal baths, which made it a favourite resort of the Romans. The springs are at least 13 in number, and the temperature ot each, though uniform in itself, differs from that of the others. The hottest, and, at the same time, most copious of the springs, is the Ursprung. It has a temperature of 153 Fah., and yields about 40 cubic ft. of water per minute. The chief ingredients of the water are saline, with some muriatic and carbonic acid, and small portions of silex and extend over little more than a fourth of its present territory. The reigning family dates its historical origin from Berthold, surnamed the Bearded, Count of Thurgau and Brisgau. The Emperor Henry III., to secure or reward his services, allowed him to assume the name of Duke of Zahringen, and gave him the expectancy of the dukedom of Swabia. His grandson Herrman succeeded to his domains in the end of the lltli century, and is the proper founder of the House of Baden. He took the title of Margrave, and died in 1130. On the death of the Margrave Christopher I. in 1527, two lines were formed by his sons Bernard and Ernest ; by the former that of Baden Baden, by the latter that of Baden-Durlach. Both lines became united in 1771, in the person of the Margrave Charles Frederick, who obtained considerable accessions of BADEN BADMINTON (GREAT) the oxide of iron. It is clear, lias a slightly salt and animal taste, and deposits a kind of chalk sinter. Its chief efficacy is in scrofulous, catarrhal, and rheumatic affections. The old vaulting over the Ursprung is of Roman construction ; and in the museum are many Roman remains, found in and about the locality. The annual number of visitors, said to be of a more mixed character than formerly, is estimated at 20,000. July and August are considered the season. On the banks of the On, opposite the town, is the Conversa- tions-haus, with its promenade and gardens. It also contains gaming saloons, with a cafe -restaurant, theatre, and reading- room. The parties who hold the tables on lease from the Grand Duke, pay a heavy sum for the odious privilege. The manufactures of the town are insignificant ; they include rope- making, pottery, and leather-dressing, to a small extent. Light wares of wood, glass ornaments, trinkets, toys, &c., are sold, in a kind of fair held upon the promenade, to attract visitors; but, upon the whole, Baden-Baden must be con sidered merely as a place of fashionable resort, and which is losing its once great respectability. Resident pop. 4343. BADEN [anc. Thermce Ceti<Ba.ndAustriacce],a. tn. Lower Austria, gov. and circle, Vienna, from which it is distant S.W. 15 m., 1. bank, Schwochat, at the foot of the Styrian Alps. It consists of a nucleus and seven suburbs ; and has numerous hot sulphurous springs (84 to 99 Fah.), used both for bathing and drinking, and resorted to annually by thousands of invalids and others. The finest baths are those of the Sauerhof, the Frauenbad, and the Carolinenbad. They are, for the most part, society baths (Gesellschafts or Vollbader), in which the bathers, male and female, in ample dressing-gowns, mix pro miscuously, and walk about up to the neck in the steaming water. They are efficacious in cutaneous diseases, gout, and rheumatism, resembling in their effects the springs of Aix-la- Chapelle. Baden was almost wholly destroyed by fire in 1812, but has been rebuilt witli increased architectural beauty. The chief modern buildings in the town and neighbourhood are the Weilburg, the handsome chateau of the Archduke Charles, in the valley of St. Helen ; the palace of the Arch duke Anthony ; the Sauerhof, a military hospital, with baths for 400 soldiers ; the church of St. Augustine, the only one in the town ; the townhall, theatre, an hospital, founded in 1815 ; and several other charitable institutions. There is a park and public promenade, much frequented, and in the environs the scenery is highly picturesque. The dyeing of yarn, cotton-spinning, and the manufacture of silk, velvet, and muslin, are carried on to a limited extent. Pop. 4800. BADEN [anc. TJiermce Helvetica;], a tn. and dist. Switzer land, can. Aargau. The town ( Ober-Baden or Baden-im-Aar- yau) is 12 m. N.E. Aarau, in a narrow defile, 1. bank, Limmat, which is here crossed by a wooden bridge. It is the seat of a district court, and has a townhall, a handsome R. catholic church, a convent, monastery, hospital, and house of correc tion, and is celebrated for its hot sulphurous baths. The hottest springs have a temperature of 1 16 Fah. The Romans had a castle at Baden, called the Castdlum Thermarum; and during the Middle Ages there was a fortress here, where the Dukes of Austria frequently resided, the ruins of which still exist. From 1426 to 1712, Baden was the seat of the federal diet of the Swiss cantons, and the residence of the foreign ambassadors. The treaty of peace between France and the empire was signed here, Sept. 7, 1714. The town has some trade in wine. Pop. 1844. BADENOCH, a dist. Scotland, Inverness, about 35 m. in length, and 28 in breadth ; bounded, E. by cos. Elgin and Aberdeen, S.W. by Athole and Lochaber, and N. by Nairnshire. The name is derived from a word signifying bushy, the country having been originally covered with natural forests, many of which still remain. Though, like all moun tainous districts, possessing some fertile spots, the country may be generally described as barren, poorly cultivated, and thinly peopled, but abounding in beautiful and picturesque Alpine scenery. In this district is situated, at an elevation of 1 200 ft. above the level of the sea, Loch Spey, the source of the river of that name, one of the largest in Scotland. The lake is sur rounded by the Corryarik Mountains, from which descend the torrents by which it is principally supplied. Badenoch, in days of old, was a lordship of the Cummins, of which family was the Red John Cummin, slain in the church at Dumfries, in 1306, by Robert Bruce. The Cummins, who were long the most powerful family in Scotland, ruled here with absolute sway, planting numerous strong fortresses over the country to support their authority. Bruce subsequently annexed Badenoch to the earldom of Moray, but it was after wards bestowed, by Robert II., on his son, Alexander, Earl of Buchan, a man of a disposition so fierce and ruthless, that he was called the wolf of Badenoch. The issue of the lat ter failing, the lordship of Badenoch fell into, and remained with the Crown till 1452, when it was bestowed on the Earl of Huntly. Badenoch was long the property of the Gordon family, but is now in other hands. It was the birthplace of M Pherson, the translator or author of Ossian s poems, who also died there, on Feb. 17, 1796; his body being afterwards carried up to Westminster Abbey, where it was interred. In this district, also, in the parish of Alvie, is Kinrara House, the beautiful and favourite residence of the celebrated and accomplished Duchess of Gordon, who died there, and who was there buried by her own desire. BADENWEILER, a vil. grand duchy, Baden, circle, Upper Rhine, 15 m. S.S.W. Freiburg, celebrated for its baths, used in rheumatic, hysterical, and hypochondriacal affections. They are insipid, tasting like lukewarm water, and have a temperature of 82 Fah. They were known to the Romans, whose baths were discovered in 1784, and are regarded as the most perfect out of Rome. They are 324 ft. long by 100 broad, and consist of four large and eight small baths, with vapour-bath, anointing and dressing-rooms, &c. Two altars have been found, the one bearing the inscription Diance Abnoba, and the other containing traces of the name of Diana. The wine called Markgrafler, the best which Baden produces, grows in the neighbourhood. Pop. exclusive of visitors, 300. BADESWUR, or BADDESSUR, a small but neatly built tn. Hindoostan, prov. Orissa, presidency, Bengal, picturesquely situated on the r. bank, Mahanuddy, 32 m. S.W. Cuttack ; lat. 20 17 N. ; Ion. 85 25 E. It consists of one broad street having a row of gardens up the centre, with trellis- work coverings, over which beans and other creeping escu lents and flowering plants are trained, forming one continued bower ; at intervals there are fantastic, and sometimes taste fully-constructed vases made of pottery, in which the tulsf plant is reared. There are also several wells in the town, with terraces round them ; the houses are all elevated on plinths, with narrow ledges projecting beyond the walls, on which the people sit in fine weather, and the thatch projects considerably, so as to admit of the rain falling clear. There is a mart here for grain, iron, cotton cloths, silk dhotis, iron mongery, &c., which are both manufactured and brought from the neighbouring places. In the vicinity are some ancient temples, and a hill of volcanic appearance, which rises abruptly from the river to a height of 300 ft. (Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal.} BADGENDON, or BADDINGTON, par. Eng. Gloucester ; 990 ac. Pop. 172. BADGER, par. Eng. Salop; 980 ac. Pop. 137. BADGE WORTH, par. Eng. Gloucester; 1730ac. P.903. BADGEWORTH, par. Eng. Somerset; 1470 ac. P. 321. BADIA, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, prov. of, and 15 m. W.N.W. Rovigo, r. bank, Adige, near the source of the Adigetto. There is here a fine bridge over the Adige, and in the town are several monasteries, a college, a manu factory of earthenware ; considerable trade in corn, flax, silk, hides, firewood, and iron, is carried on. Pop. 3400. BADIA CALAVENA, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, prov. of, and 12 m. N.E. Verona; cap. dist., in which are several quarries of fine marble. Pop. 2000. BADIA SAN SAL V ADORE. See ABBADIA. BADIA TEDALDA, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 23 m. N.E. Arezzo, on a skirt of the Alps near the 1. bank, Marecchia ; well built, commanded by a small castle, and having a fine square, parish church, and an ancient abbey of the Benedictines. The greater part of the inhabitants are shepherds or husbandmen, subsisting chiefly on chestnuts. Pop. 2074. BADINGHAM, par. Eng. Suffolk; 3390 ac. Pop. 864. BADLESMERE, par. Eng. Kent; 820 ac. Pop. 122. BADLEY, par. Eng. Suffolk ; 1050 ac. Pop. 83. BADMINTON (GREAT), par. Eng. Gloucester; 1450 ac. Pop. 552. BADOLATO 292 BAFFO BADOLATO, a tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Ultra, (list, of, and 22 m. S. Catauzaro, on a hill about 2 m. from the sea. Fop. 3394. BADONG, a vil., S.W. part isl. Bali, Indian Archipelago, about 9 in. from the coast, with markets twice a week, attended often by 3000 people. BADONV1LLER, a tn. France, dep. Meurthe, arrond. of, and 21 m. S.E. Luneville, on the Blette. Metallic moulds for the glassworks at Baccarat are manufactured here, besides large quantities of awls and prickers, with some cotton goods and hosiery. There are here, also, tanneries, breweries, and potteries. Pop. 2090. BADONY, two pars. Ireland: 1, Badony, or Bailony flower, Tyrone; 47,921 ac. Pop. 7784. 2, Badony, or Badony Upper, Tyrone ; 38,208 ac. Pop. 5822. BADRACHELLUM [Sacred mountain], a tn. Hindoo- Stan, in the Deccan, prov. Hyderabad, 1. bank, Godavery, about 100 m. from its embouchure in the Bay of Bengal, and 165 m. E. by N. from the city of Hyderabad ; lat. 17 40 N. ; Ion. 81 E. BADSEY, par. Eng. Worcester; 1770 ac. Pop. 497. BADSWORTH, par. Eng. York, W. Hiding; 4320 ac. Pop. 750. BADULLA, a tn. and fort, isl. Ceylon, 35 m. S.E. Kandy, 1. bank, Komene; lat. 6 45" N.; Ion. 81 15 E. It stands at an elevation of 2100 ft. above the level of the sea, and is surrounded by mountains. The town is insignificant, and the fort, now unoccupied in consequence of the unhealthiness of of the situation, is inconsiderable, though possessing a good barracks and hospital. The surrounding country is fertile, and though 40 m. from the sea, is favourable to the growth of the cocoa-nut tree. BAD WELL -ASH, or LITTLE ASHFIELD, par. Eng. Suffolk ; 2000 ac. Pop. 458. BAELEGHEM, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. E. Flan ders, 10 m. S. Ghent, having manufactories of linen, cotton, tobacco, and candles; also breweries. Pop. 2932. BAELEU. 1, A tn. and com. Belgium, prov. Antwerp, on the Great Nethes, 14 m. S.E. Turnhout. Here are a manufactory of coarse woollens ; a distillery ; oil, malt, and corn-mills. Pop. 3262. 2, A vil. and com., prov. Liege, 5J m. N. Verviers, with stone quarries, limeworks, and a paper, a cloth, a thread, two corn, and four fulling mills. Pop. 2041. BAENA, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 24 m. S.S.E. Cordova, r. bank, Marbella. It has hilly though toler ably good streets, two principal and two smaller squares, four parish churches, a town and court-house, ladies college, several well-attended schools, two hospitals, a prison, public store house, riding-school, numerous convents, and a palace of the Counts of Altamira. Portions of the old walls, and the re mains of a castle, still exist. Manufactures : linen, woollen, and cotton fabrics, tiles, bricks, and earthenware, and there are some tanneries, and oil and corn-mills, in the place; still a considerable number of the inhabitants are engaged in agricultural pursuits. Large quantities of grain and oil are exported to Malaga, and the trade with the interior is ex tensive. An annual cattle-fair is held. Pop. 12,944. BAEPENDI, a tn. Brazil, prov. Minas Geraes, 180 m. W.N.W. Rio de Janeiro, on a streamlet of same name. It has a church, townhouse, and prison ; its district well watered, and here and there well wooded, is in general fertile, and yields good tobacco, which is extensively cultivated. Millet and beans are also grown for local consumpt, and a consider able quantity of pigs are reared for the Rio de Janeiro market. Pop. tn. and dist. 9000. BAESRODE, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. E. Flanders, on the Scheldt, about 5 m. E. Dendermonde ; with breweries, oil and corn-mills, and a building dockyard. Many of the inhabitants live by fishing and seafaring. Pop. 3085. BAEZA [anc. Beatia], a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 22 m. E.N.E. Jaen, cap. dist. of same name, about 3 m. N. of r. bank, Guadalquivir, agreeably situated on a height called Loma de Ubeda, amid rich and well-watered plains. When seen from a distance, it-? numerous churches and mon asteries, many of them of Gothic architecture, and its lofty steep-roofed houses, present a very striking appearance. At one time it had a double enclosure of turreted walls, but of these only a few fragments now remain. The streets, though not straight, are in general spacious and well paved; and the houses, mostly of two or three stories, are built of a fine sandstone, quarried in the neighbourhood. This sandstone, by exposure to the air, becomes dark, and gives the town a sombre hue. Of the three public squares which Baeza con tains, the largest is the Plaza de la Constitucion. The houses, which line two of its sides, have a range of porticoes ; and its interior is beautifully laid out, being both planted with pop lars and adorned with a fountain of white and black marble, with several jets. The principal edifices are the cathedral, now united to that of Jaen, an irregular edifice, erected at different times, and in different styles of architecture ; the university, one of the finest edifices of the town, though as a literary institution it has been suppressed; and the old mon astery of St. Philip de Neri. Baeza contains nine parishes, and three monasteries ; is the seat of several district courts, and possesses a seminary (seminario conciliar], in which both theology and philosophy are taught ; an economical society, and several endowed schools, chiefly for elementary instruc tion. The principal manufactures are cloth, leather, and soap. The dyeworks of Baeza were once celebrated, but have greatly fallen off. The annual fair lasts a fortnight. The celebrated sculptor, Caspar Becerra, was born here in 1520. Pop. 10,851. BAFFA [anc. PapTios], a seaport tn., S.W. coast, island of Cyprus ; lat. 34 47 18" N. ; Ion. 32 24 30" E. (R.) It oc cupies the site of the celebrated Paphos of antiquity, where Venus is fabled to have lauded after her birth, having sprung from the froth of the sea near this island. She was worshipped by the inhabitants, and had 100 altars at Paphos; hence her titles of Cyprian and Paphian Queen. The numerous ruins of palaces and churches everywhere to be met with, bear evidence of the splendour of the ancient town, and present a striking contrast to the squalor and wretchedness of the modern one, which consists of an assemblage of miserable houses, with a few Greek churches and mosques. In the neighbourhood are a number of excavations made in the rocks, and inhabited by Turkish families. Beautiful crystals are found in the rocks near Baffa, called Baffa diamonds. The country around is fertile, yielding large crops of corn, besides cotton and silk. The bay is large, but shallow, and unsafe. Pop. 1000. BAFFIN S, or BYLOTS BAY, a large gulf or inland sea, communicating with the N. Atlantic, by Davis Strait, N.E. coast, America, between lat. 68 and 78 N., and Ion. 52 and 80 W., extending S.E. to N.W. about 950 m., with a mean breadth of about 280 m. It was first explored by Baffin in 1616, and more fully by Capt. Ross, in 1818, and Capt. Parry in 1819. It is of great depth in many places, but of extremely unequal bottom, the ascertained depths varying from 200 to 1050 fathoms. Its shores are rocky and precipitous, attain ing a height, in many places, of 1000 ft., backed by ranges of lofty mountains, covered with perpetual snow. In this dreary and barren region there is hardly any vegetation ; the little there is, consists chiefly of mosses, lichens, and ground berries. The coasts are rendered remarkable by the presence of prodigious numbers of high, sharp, conical rocks, so arti ficial in form and appearance, that they are called monuments. Both sides of the bay are indented by numerous sounds, creeks, . and inlets, few of which, however, have b^en yet explored. It abounds in black whales, of a large size, and in seals, the capture of which employs a number of British vessels. The principal land animals are bears, black foxes, hares, and wal ruses. Birds ptarmigans, terns, gulls, eider ducks, auks, and petrels. BAFFIN S ISLANDS. 1, Three small barren unin habited islands, E. shfcres, Baffin s Bay, and so called by Capt. Ross. They are in lat. 74 4 N. ; Ion. 58 W. (R.) 2, A small isl. Fox s Channel, N. branch of Hudson s Bay. It lies S. of Melville peninsula ; lat. 65 40 N. ; Ion. 83 29 W. (R.) BAFFO, a considerable tn. Mahee country, a district of Dahomey, W. Africa. It is situated near the Fellattah fron tier, at the foot of one of the Kong mountains, and is orna mented with a variety of trees silk, cotton, sycamore, ash, acacia. From being in the hill country, the climate here is more temperate than in other localities of Dahomey. The country around is well watered ; and some of the streams are impregnated with iron, others with magnesia. The land pro- BAFING 293 BAGDAD (luces four crops of Indian corn each year, and two of Guinea corn. Tamarinds, grapes, figs, cashew and kolla nuts, &c., abound. There is a good, though small, breed of cattle, but no horses. Sheep and goats, as well as guinea-fowl of various kinds, partridges of a large size, and pigeons, are plentiful ; and venomous serpents numerous. Pipe-clay is abundant in some of the valleys. The market is well supplied with all articles of native consumpt. The inhabitants, who manufac ture a little cloth, are literally slaves, but live at peace since they were brought under the sway of the King of Dahomey. (Duncan s Travels in W. Africa.} BAFING, or BLACK KIVER. See SENEGAL. BAFLO, a vil. Holland, prov. Groningen, 15 m. N.W. Appingedam ; in a well-cultivated district, and having a church and school, and in the vicinity a rye-mill. Pop. 600. BAFRA, a tn. Asiatic Turkey, pash. Koom, r. bank, Kizil-Irmak, 13 m. above its junction with the Black Sea. It has a bridge, and two mosques. Flax and rice are raised in great abundance in the neighbourhood. Pop. 2000. BAGAGEM, a river, Brazil, prov. Goyaz, an affluent of the Maranhao. It rises in the serra Viadeira, flows W.N. W. and falls into the Maranhao about 20 m. above the junction of that stream with the Tocantins, after a course of about 160 m., in lat. 13 30 S. ; Ion. 49 5 W. BAGARIA, a vil. Sicily, 11 m. E.S.E. Palermo, with the mansions of whose nobility it is adorned, that of the Prince of Palagonia being the most distinguished. Pop. 4000. BAGBOROUGH (WEST), par. Eng. Somerset; 1000 ac. Pop. 449. BAGDAD, a pash. Turkey in Asia, of a triangular form, stretch ing N.W. from the head of the Persian Gulf, in about lat. 30 to 38 N.. and lying between Ion. 40 and 48 E. ; bounded, S.W. by the Arabian desert, E. by Persia, and N. by the pashalics of Van and Diarhekir. It is thus about 630 m. long, and about 450 at its greatest breadth, traversed by the Euph rates and Tigris, which afterwards unite and enter the Persian Gulf in a single stream. This pashalic is usually divided into three por tions, that E. of the Tigris, that W. of the Euphrates, and that lying between these two rivers. The first is fertile ; the second flat BAO and sandy, without herbage and without water, excepting along the immediate banks of the river, the overflowings of which form productive rice-grounds ; the third is now a complete desert, though anciently one of the richest and best cultivated territories of the old world. This result proceeds almost solely from the wretched govern ment of the Turks. The better cultivated and more fertile^ portions of the province, produce large crops of wheat, barley,* rice, and maize, with a good deal of tobacco, hemp, flax, and cotton. Near the towns and villages, to which nearly all agricultural efforts are confined, great quantities of fruit are grown, particularly dates, which are reckoned of a superior description, and form an important article of subsistence. Melons, cucumbers, and onions are also abundant, and of excellent quality. Among the wild animals are lions, hyenas, jackals, wolves, gazelles, hogs, and hares. There are not many lions, but jackals are both numerous and troublesome. The domestic animals are horses, asses, mules, buffaloes, camels, and dromedaries. The horses are of small size, seldom exceeding 14 hands high, but are held in much esteem on account of their beauty, docility, and capability of enduring fatigue. The most numerous and most useful, however, of the (lomesticated animals, is the camel. As beef is not used as an article of food, oxen are raised solely for the yoke. The wild birds are black partridges, snipes, wild doves, and, on the lakes and marshes, wild geese, ducks, widgeons, and pelicans. Ostriches are found in the deserts. The only domestic birds bred are the common fowl and pigeons, neither geese, turkeys, nor ducks being domesticated. The province ia only partially subject to the Porte, the Arabs being sole masters of the country from Bagdad to the Persian Gulf. The Arab sheikhs or chiefs are bound to furnish the pasha with a certain number of troops, and a certain amount of tribute ; but these contingents are very irregularly paid, often evaded altogether. The population of the pashalic, consisting of Turks, Arabs, Kurds, Turkomans, Armenians, and Jews, has been estimated at 1,300,000. BAGDAD, a large and celebrated city, Asiatic Turkey, formerly cap. of the empire of the khalifs, now cap. pash. of same name; on the banks of the Tigris, about 190 m. above its junction with the Euphrates; lat. 33 19 50" N.; Ion. 44 22 38" E. (L.) The city stands on both banks two- thirds being on the left, and the remainder on the right of the river, which is here about 620 ft. wide, the communica tion being maintained by a long, narrow, and very inconvenient bridge of boats. It is of an irregular oblong form, and about 3 m. in circuit, and, as seen from a little distance, has a strik ing appearance, being surrounded by formidable-looking walls of furnace-burnt bricks, strengthened with round towers, and mounted with cannon. A forest of palm and date-trees growing around and within the city, adds to the picturesque effect. The interior, however, disappoints the high expecta tions which a distant view is calculated to excite. A large portion of the ground within the walls is unoccupied ; and the bricks of which the houses are built are mostly old, being dug out of the ruins of former edifices, and hence rounded, chipped, or otherwise disfigured. The streets are narrow, unpaved, and extremely filthy; and the houses, built of burnt bricks of a yellowish-red colour, generally consist of two stories above the ground, or rather underground flat. They have seldom any window to the street, and the doors are all strong, and iron-clenched. A few of them, however, are enlivened by a sort of oriel or projecting window, admitting light to a sitting- room, in which the various members of the family meet, and visitors are received. Here the males may be seen smoking, and occasionally the females peeping through the half-closed lattice. The houses consist of a range of apartments opening into a square or inner court, with one or two subterraneous rooms called serdals, in which the inhabitants seek shelter during the day from the intense heat. The bazaar, built by Dawd Pasha, is one of the finest in the East, and is well sup plied with home and foreign manufacture ; but the other ones are mean structures, though sufficiently spacious, and generally well stocked. The shops are poor and dilapidated, the whole indicating neglect and decay. There are about 100 mosques in the town, although not more than 20 or 30 are deserving notice. They differ from, and are in general inferior to, those of other Mahometan cities ; still, some of them have a very gay appearance, their domes and minarets being covered with glazed tiles, of various colours, but chiefly green, white, yellow, and black, arranged in a kind of mosaic work, with consider able taste, and so as to reflect the rays of the sun with brilliant effect. The caravanseries and baths are mostly mean establish ments. Bagdad was formerly a place of extensive trade, having been for many ages the great emporium for the com merce of all the surrounding countries ; but it has of late years much declined, in consequence, principally, of the rapacity of the Government, and its unwillingness or inability to protect the property of the merchants from the Arabs, and BAGE 294 BAGNERES DE BIGORRE in part from the interruptions caused by plague, war, and inundation. Another great cause of decline is, that Persia no longer receives her chief supplies from Bagdad, but obtains them in the N. provinces, via Trebizonde, from Great Britain and Constantinople ; and on the S. direct from India and the Persian Gulf. The yearly trade between Aleppo and Bagdad, at present, seldom exceeds one caravan of 700 to 1 000 camels ; that between Damascus and Bagdad, one of 1200 or 1500 camels. The chief imports of this trade are cotton twist, calicoes, shirtings, prints, imitation shawls, woollen cloths, and djes. The returns, independently of remittances in specie, in which the greater part is paid, are Persian tombak, galls, buffalo-hides, East India indigo, pearls, Cashmere shawls, some Moklia coffee, gums, myrrh, &c. Bagdad has few manu factures. The principal are red and yellow leather, both of which are much esteemed; and a kind of plush, of rich and beautiful patterns, which is much used by the Turks for cover ing cushions and sofas. The climate of Bagdad is intensely hot in summer ; but, on on the whole, salubrious, although subject, during part of the summer, to a hot wind, known by the name of Samicl, which is said to feel as if it had jiut passed over the mouth of a lime kiln. Rain rarely falls later than the beginning of May, or earlier than towards the end of September, after which it con tinues for a time to fall copiously, though the winter on the whole is dry. So far from considering the excessive heat of summer unhealthy, the natives assert, that if it does not attain its usual intensity, sickness is sure to prevail. It has been observed that the plague visits Bagdad every ten years. A tremendous visitation of that calamity took place in 1831, when the city was nearly depopulated, upwards of 4000 dying daily for several days continuously, out of a population of about 60,000! To add to the horrors of the scene, the Tigris overflowed its banks, inundated the lower part of the city, causing the destruction, in one night, of 7000 houses, which, falling with an almost simultaneous crash, destroyed 15,000 The population of Bagdad is exceedingly mixed, consisting of Persians, Turks, Armenians, Arabs, and Jews; and as they all dress after the fashions of their respective countries, the variety of costume displayed in the streets and bazaars is very striking. The natives are said to be the ugliest people in the Turkish empire a circumstance in part owing to the effects of a cutaneous disorder to which they are subject, and which leaves disfiguring marks on the countenance. The only women in Bagdad who exhibit any part of the face are the Arab females, whose dress consists of a wide chemise of red or blue cotton, and whose faces, arms, &c., are tatooed in a manner exceedingly disagreeable to a European eye. The handsomest women, and the least disfigured by art, are the Georgians and Circassians ; but all ranks and classes stain the hair and the palms of the hands with henna, the last so deeply, that they are said to resemble those of a sailor covered with tar. The Turkish women, when they go abroad, are enveloped in large sheets of checked-blue linen, which give them a shapeless appearance, their legs being, at the same time, enclosed in large jack-boots of yellow leather, and their faces covered with a thick blac . horse-hair veil. Two other striking features of this far-famed eastern city, are the immense numbers of singularly ugly negro slaves and white donkeys, that throng the streets. Both are in great request; the latter so much so, as to bring often from 40 to 50 each. Only a very imperfect approximation can be made to the actual popu lation. It once exceeded 100,000. Fontanier makes it as low as 30,000. The probable number does not exceed 65,000. BAGE, a vil. Brazil, prov. Sao-Pedro-do-Rio-Grande, near Piratini, on the S. frontier of the province. It has a church, and about 2000 inhabitants. BAGE, name of two vils. France, dep. Ain, about 3 m. distant from each other, and 15 m. N.W. Bourg: 1, Bage le-Chatel, agreeably situated on a hill, in the midst of a fertile plain, and possessing some manufactures of cloth, leather, and earthenware; and a trade in agricultural produce, particularly poultry. Pop. 740. 2, Vagt-la- Vil/e, a large vil., can. Bage - le-Chatel. Pop. 2069. BAGH, or BHAO, a tn. Beloochistan, dist. Cutch Gun- dava; lat. 28 35 N.; Ion. 68 8 E.; r. bank, Naree, and not far from the celebrated Bolan Pass. It is surrounded by a ruinous mud wall. The houses, about 2000 in number, are of the same material, and wretchedly built. It has a large roofed bazaar, well supplied with wares. Adjoining the town is an extensive cemetery, containing some remarkable tombs ; and near it, a large mosque. In dry weather, water is extremely scarce, the stream of the Naree becoming then exhausted, while the water in the tanks and wells is brackish and unwholesome. The neighbouring country, when properly irrigated, is fertile in grain. The climate is sultry. BAGHTCIIECIISEKAI. See BAKHTBOUBSAUAI. BAGINTON, par. Eng. Warwick; 1480 ac. Pop. 245. BAGLAN, par., S. Wales, Glamorgan. Pop. 548. BAGLANA, or BHAGELANA, a dist. Hindoo^tan, prov. Aurungabad ; extremely hilly, with many fertile plains inter spersed. It is one of the original Mahratta countries, and remained under the sovereignty of that tribe until the fall of Peshwain 1818. B A GLEN, or BAGALEEN, a prov. island of Java, S. coast; bounded, W. by Banjoemas, N. by Samarang, E. by Kadoe and Djocjokarta, and S. by the Indian Ocean. It lies between lat. 7 10 and 8 11 S., and Ion. 109 25 and 110 5 E.; is mountainous, but fertile, generally of volcanic formation, and has lime in its S. parts. The principal mountains are Sindoro, about 10,432 ft. high; and Praauw, about 8202 ft., both in the N. of the province, and both volcanoes; the former an active one. Besides these, several other lower heights have craters. The principal streams are the Ambal and Bogowonto, both falling into the Indian Ocean. The atmosphere gener ally is clear, and, from the height of the ground, the heat is seldom greater than 80 Fah. Rice, Egyptian wheat, tobacco, sugar, and coffee, are the principal products. Buffaloes are plentiful ; and in the woods tigers, panthers, boars, apes, and numerous kinds of birds abound. On the coast the edible birds nests are found. BAGNA, or BAGNI, a tn. Turkey in Europe, prov. Rou- melia, sanjak of, and 40 m. S.S.W. Sophia, 1. bank, Moritza, at the S.W. extremity and near the base of the mountain range that separates the provinces of Bulgaria and Ivouinelia. It is surrounded by an embattled wall, outside of which are some thermal spring baths. Pop. about 1000. BAGNA CAVALLO, a tn. Papal States, 29m. S.S.E. Ferrara, on the Seno. It has some silk-mills ; and large quanti ties of hemp are grown in the surrounding district. P. 10,609. BAGNA LOUKA. See BANJALUKA. BAGNALSTOWN, a tn. Ireland, co. of, and 10 m. S. Carlow ; agreeably situated on the Barrow, over which there is here a handsome bridge. The sessions-house is on an ele> vated site, and has an elegant Ionic portico. The town has a fever-hospital, a dispensary, and a R. catholic chapel. Many persons are employed in the quarrying and dressing of granite for building, and of Carlow flag; both of which abound in the district, and are shipped down the Barrow to Water- ford, Dublin, &c. Pop. (1841), 2225. BAGNAN, or BAGUAN, a small isl. Indian Archipelago, off the N.E. coast of Borneo, from which it is distant about 25 m.; lat. 6 8 N.; Ion. 118 30 E. (R.) BAGNARA. 1, A seaport tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Ultra, 17 m. N.E. Reggio, at the N. entrance of the Strait of Messina. It has a considerable trade in wood and tar. Ex cellent muscat wine is produced in the vicinity. This town is supposed to be the Portus Orestis of the ancients. Pop. 3175. 2, A tn. and castle, Papal States, 20 m. W. Ravenna, r. bank, Santerno. Pop. 2440. BAGNAREA, a tn. Papal States, 15 m. N. Viterbo; on a hill. It is the seat of a bishop. Pop. 2733. BAGNERES-DE-BiGORRE |anc. Aqucnsis Vicus, Aqucc Bigerronum] , a celebrated watering-place, France, dep. Hautes Pyrenees, cap. arroud. of same name, at the entrance of the valley of Campan; 1. bank, Adour, 13 m. S.S.E. Tarbes. Its site is one of the most romantic in the Pyrenees. Well-cul tivated slopes surround it on all sides, and are terminated in the distance by a mountain-range, the most conspicuous summit in which is the peak of Midi. The town is well built, and contains several good squares, and numerous spa cious, handsome streets. The houses are all whitewashed, many of them have doorposts, lintels, and window-sills of a blue marble, which abounds in the neighbourhood. One of the worst evils by which Bagnbres suffers, is a bright glare and sultry stifling heat; but this is considerably allayed by copious streams drawn from the Adour, and made to circulate B AGNEEES DE - LUCHON 295 BAGULCOT in almost every street. Bagneres owes its chief celebrity to and 38 m. E. by N. Florence, near r. bank, Savio. its baths, which are sulphurous and saline, and have a tem perature varying from 87 to 123 Fah. There is also in the vicinity a chalybeate spring, said to be almost the only one in the Pyrenees. The bathing establishment, called Fracasti, is very complete, and is the largest and most handsome build ing of the town. It stands at one of its extremities, imme diately under Mount Olivet, and is approached by a long avenue of poplars, winding through a verdant valley. The inhabitants depend chiefly on the baths, almost every house receiving lodgers ; but the manufactures are of some import ance. The chief of these is the crape known by the name of Crepe-de- Bareges, and a fine woollen gauze, almost as fine as lace, woven into shawls and scarfs. A great proportion of the females, young and old, are employed in knitting. Bagneres has also extensive marble-works, dyeworks, tan neries, and paper-mills. Pop. 6401. BAGNERES-DE-LUCHON, a tn. France, dep. Haute Garonne, arrond. of, and 21m. S.W. St. Gaudens. It is one of the principal watering-places of the Pyrenees, and derives its celebrity from its sulphurous thermal waters, said to be beneficial in rheumatic complaints ; are used chiefly as baths. The town is situated in the picturesque valley of Luchon, surrounded on all sides by hills covered with natural wood. The main street forms a splendid avenue, at the W. end of which the large bathing establishment is placed. The neigh bourhood exhibits some of the most interesting scenery of the Pyrenees ; and as horses can be procured for a trifle, eques trian excursions are the chief amusements of the visitors, who are most numerous in the months of July and August, at which period the place is very gay. Chocolate, of good quality, is made here. The winter lasts seven or eight months. Eesident pop. 2415. BAGNES (VAL DE), a valley, Switzerland, can. Valais, about 25 m. in length. It commences at St. Branchier, little below Orsieres, and follows the course of the Dranse upwards to Chable, stretching thence, in a S.S.E. direction to the glaciers of Chermontane. In the year 1545, the village of Bagnes was destroyed by an inundation, caused by the stoppage of the Dranse at a glacier until its waters had accu mulated. In 1818, a similar stoppage of the Dranse took place at the glacier of Getroz, and the water formed a lake no less than 1 m. long, 700 ft. wide, and at one part 200 ft. deep. Attempts, partially successful, were made to cut a channel through the ice, so as to drain the lake gradually, but the barrier at last gave way, and a deluge of 500,000,000 of cubic feet of water was let loose, in the space of half an hour, to sweep through a tortuous valley. A flood five times greater than that of the Rhine at Basel filled the bed of a mountain- stream. All the bridges on the Dranse were swept away, even that of Mauvoisin, which stood 90 ft. above the ordinary level of the river ; houses were destroyed, many lives were lost, and the fertile pastures were converted into a desert of gravel. The valley contains several hamlets, and about 9000 inhabitants. (Forbes s Travels through the Alps.) BAGNI, or BAGNO m LUCCA [anc. Balnea Corsennce et Villce], a tn. and com. duchy of Lucca, 12 m. N. the city of Lucca, r. bank, Lima, here crossed by a bridge. In the TOWN there are a handsome parish church, an English chapel, muni cipal buildings, theatre, several public libraries, and five bath ing establishments. The waters, which are much used, contain sulphate of magnesia, carbonate of lime, alum, and iron, and their temperature varies from 1 12 to 129. The COMMUNE yields grain, oil, wine, and great quantities of fruits and vegetables ; has forests of chestnut and beech ; and feeds a considerable number of cattle and sheep. Pop. 8834. BAGNI, or ST. GIULIANO [anc. Thermce Pisance], atn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 4 m. N.E. Pisa, at the W. base of Mount Pisano, on which stands the ancient chapel of St. Giuliano, whence the town derives its name. The town is well constructed and clean, and much resorted to by the citi zens of Pisa on account of the reputed efficacy of its thermal baths. The establishments for the accommodation of bathers are extensive and well regulated. The waters are clear, in odorous, and saline; temperature, 107. In Mount Pisano marble is quarried ; and in the vicinity are the remains of a magnificent ancient Roman aqueduct, the Aquce Calidce Pisa- norum of Pliny. Pop. 11,183. BAGNO, a small fortified tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, It has an ancient and handsome church, municipal buildings, and noble old edifice used as a bathing establishment. The ;hermal baths are much frequented ; temperature of water, 108 to 110. The COMMUNE is fertile towards the river ; ts mountains are covered with forests of pine, chestnut, beech, and oak, the fruit of which feeds numerous swine; cattle, sheep, and goats are reared to some extent. Five annual fairs are held ; one of which, in the spring, is the most extensivo and best attended cattle fair in Tuscany. Pop. 6887. BAGNO A ACQUA [anc. Bagni di Casciani], a vil. Tus cany, prov. Pisa, S.S.E. Lari on the Era, celebrated for its thermal, sulphurous, and carboniferous waters, of a tem perature of between 97 and 98 Fah. They are clear and nodorous, but have a sharp acid taste. Pop. 1285. BAGNO A KIPOLI, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 4 m. E. by S. Florence, having a parish church with a few fine pictures, and a townhouse. The vicinity is very fertile, and the low meadows towards the river Arno, N. of the town, afford food for numerous cattle and sheep. Pop. 13,189. BAGNOLI, a tn. Naples, prov. Sannio, 8 m. S.W. Tri- vento, on the slope of a hill. It has five churches, an abbey, and an hospital. Pop. 4379. BAGNOLO. 1, A tn. Naples, prov. Principato Ultra, 8 m. S.W. St. Angelo de Lombardi, on the declivity of Mount Calvello. It has a fine collegiate church, and several convents. Pop. 4500. 2, A tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, cap. dist. of same name, prov. of, and 7 m. S. by W. Brescia, on the high road from that city to Cremona. Pop. 2646. The DISTRICT is fertile, and feeds a considerable number of cattle. Pop. 15,895. -3, A tn. Sardinian States, prov. Salazzo, 1. bank, Grana, at the foot of the Alps. Pop. 2000. BAGNOLS, or BAGNOLS LES BAINS, a vil. France, dep. Lozere, on the Lot, 10 m. S.E. Meude, on a slope near 1. bank, Lot, and deserving of notice for its bathing establish ment, which is very complete, and much frequented. The springs, which are thermal, having a temperature of 111 to 1 13 Fah., rise in a narrow valley. The water, on first issuing, is limpid, and free from smell, but after it has run some dis tance emits an odour of sulphuretted hydrogen. It is not dis agreeable to the taste, but has a kind of soapy, unctuous feel. It is used both internally and externally, and is said to be very efficacious in scrofulous and similar affections. BAGNOLS [anc. Balnea ], a tn. France, dep. Gard, arrond. of, and 15 m. N.E. Uzes, r. bank, Ceze, and of some celebrity for its wines. It is on the whole an ill-built town, with narrow streets, but has one fine square, adorned by two fountains, and surrounded by a balustrade. The college also is a good building. The chief products of the manufactures of Bagnols are coarse cloth, serges, and spun silk. It has also distilleries, tanneries, and dyeworks. Pop. 3803. Four places in France, in addition to the two already mentioned, have the name of BAGNOLS. BAGNONE, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. Pisa, 7 m. S.E. Pontremoli, at the S. base of Mount Orsajo. It contains a large square, parish church, and castle. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in tillage and rearing cattle, for which four yearly fairs are held. Pop. 4855. BAGOLINO, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 24 m. N. by E. Brescia, 2 m. N.W. lake Idro, 1. bank, Caffaro, having a fine church, an hospital, and extensive iron works. Hardware, coarse cloths, and serge are manufactured here, and an annual cattle-fair is held in July. In the vicinity are the sulphurous thermal springs of St. Giacomo. Pop. 3599. BAGSHOT [formerly, Holy Hall], a vil. and chapelry, England, co. Surrey, hun. Woking, 10 m. S.S.W. Windsor. Pop. 1071. It gives its name to an extensive heath in the neighbourhood, once famous for the numerous highway rob beries committed on it. The heath is now much reduced in extent, considerable portions of it having been enclosed and cultivated. Along its borders are numerous handsome villas. BAGTHORPE, par. Eng. Norfolk; 710 ac. Pop. 78. BAGULCOT. 1, A subdivision of the dist. of Darwar, Hindoostan, prov. Bejapoor, presid. Bombay, including the pergunnahs Bagulcot and Bedaumy; length, 54 m.; breadth, 44 m. ; area, 1230 sq. m. It is badly supplied with water, there being few springs and a deficiency of rain, the annual amount rarely exceeding 26 inches. On this account, the vil- BAGUU 290 BAHAR lages are built mostly on the banks of rivers. The principal language is Canarese. Pop. about 100,000. 2, A tn., cap. of above subdivision, 125 ra. N.E. Goa, and the residence of the principal merchants and bankers of the district. Pop. 7523. BAGUR, a dist. Iliudoostan, now attached to the provs. of Mahva and Goojerat. BAHADURl OOR, two towns, India:!, A tn., prov. Goojerat, 20 ra. S.E. Banda, and 81 m. N.N.E. Surat; lat. 22 11 N. ; Ion. 73 46 E. 2, A tn., prov. Malwa, dist. Cheudaree ; lat. 24 15 N. ; Ion. 78 4 E. BAHAMA (GRAND), one of the principal islands of the Bahama group, 57 m. E. from the coast of E. Florida ; lat. (W. end) 26 41 N. ; Ion. 79 W. (K.) ; about 70 m. long by 9 broad ; healthy and tolerably fertile, but thinly inhab ited. Pop. 454 males, and 350 females ; chiefly employed in raising Indian corn, and other agricultural pursuits. BAHAMA ISLANDS, or LUCAYOS, a group of about 500 islands, belonging to Great Britain, many of them mere rocks, lying N.E. Cuba, and E. of the coast of Florida, the gulf- stream of which passes between them and the mainland. They extend from the Grand Bahama or Mantanilla Cays, in lat. 27 31 N., and Ion. 79 5 W., to the Mouchoir Bank, in lat. 21 N., and Ion. 70 32 "W., a distance of upwards of 600 m. Generally speaking, they present a flat appearance, and are mostly long and narrow. They are formed of calcareous rock, which, by retaining the moisture, is found well adapted to the growth of various kinds of fruits. Of the whole group, not more than 12 or 14 are inhabited ; and some of the largest are either altogether uninhabited, or but thinly peopled, while others, again, are almost unexplored. The climate, though rather hot, the thermometer varying from 80 to 90 in summer, is healthy, and, with moderate care, well suited to European constitutions. Though generally sterile, some of the islands produce oranges, limes, lemons, esculent veget ables, maize, and ground provisions, for the consumption of the inhabitants, and a little cotton for exportation. The general wild vegetation of the Bahamas is a close growth of trees, comprising the Madeira, horse-flesh mahogany, mastic, lignum vitae, pigeon, alum, dyewoods, &c., with an entangled underbrush. Numbers of cattle are reared on the islands, and the hog and agouti are found wild in the woods. In the more S. islands, there are natural salt-ponds, of great value, the cultivation of which is increasing, but is capable of much further improvement. Turtles abound on the shore, and are an article of export. In 1850 the total exports amounted to 69,385, and the imports to 124,486. In 1851 there cleared outwards 373 vessels, tonnage 36,914, navigated by 2356 seamen ; and there entered 363, tonnage 36,038, navigated by 2266 seamen ; and there were built 13 vessels, tonnage 494. In 1851 the revenue of the colony amounted to 26,105, and the expenditure to 25,068, of which sum 1650 were for educational purposes. The schools supported by the govern ment are 21 in number, attended by 1857 scholars, besides which there are several private schools. There is also a library and museum, partly supported by government. The colony is divided into 13 parishes, and contains nine Episcopal churches, and 1 1 Episcopal chapels, a Presbyterian church, six Methodist, and several Baptist chapels. The seat of govern ment is Nassau, island of New Providence; one of the largest, and, from its geographical position and natural advantages, the most important of the group. Here also is the heai- qnarters of the troops. The legislature consists of a governor and council, appointed by the crown, and a house of assembly, fhe present inhabitants are composed of two classes, residents and wreckers; the former are chiefly the descendants of American royalists, great numbers of whom repaired to these islands, with the remains of their property, at the close of the American war. The wreckers, as their name implies, follow as a calling the occupation of rescuing the crews and cargoes of shipwrecked vessels a calamity exceedingly frequent in these intricate and dangerous seas. They are licensed by the governor, are excellent sailors, and prompt and intrepid in danger. Their vessels, well adapted for the purpose, are small flat-bottomed sloops, which they manage with great skill. They receive a salvage on all property rescued from the waves. The gambling life of a wrecker has, however, much militated against agricultural pursuits, against the real advancement of these islands, and against the comfort and in tersts of the inhabitants. Much has been done to promote education in the Bahamas; numerous schools having been established and chiefly supported by the colonial government, and also, to a great extent, by the Wcsleyans. San Salvador, one of the islands, was the first land fallen in with by Columbus on his first voyage, in 1492. At this period, the larger of the Bahamas were densely peopled by a mild and inoffensive race of Indians, whom the Spaniards removed to Hispaniola to work the mines, or act as divers in the pearl-fisheries of Cnmana. By this cruel proceeding, the race became entirely extinct in the course of about 14 years. The Bahamas now remained uninhabited for nearly a century and a half, when they were colonized by the English (1629), who were, in turn, expelled by the Spaniards. They subsequently changed masters repeatedly, but were finally ceded to the British in 1783. The principal islands are Grand Bahama, Great and Little Abaco, Andros Islands, New Providence, Eleuthra, San Salvador, Great Exuma, Rum Cay, Watling Island, Long Island, Crooked Island, Acklin Island, Atwood Cay, Man- cuana Island, Great, and Little Inagua, and the Caricos Islands. The entire pop. in 1845 amounted to 26,500; according to the census of 1851 it had increased to 27,519. BAHAR, or BEHAR, an extensive prov., a dist., and tn., Hindoostan, presidency of Bengal. The PROVINCE, of very irregular outline, is situated between lat. 22 49 and 27 20 N.; Ion. 83 1 and 87 14 E.; bounded, N. by Nepaul, W. by Allahabad, Oude, and Gundwana, S. by Gundwana, and E. by Bengal ; area, about 50,000 sq. m. The Ganges, flowing W. to E., divides it into two nearly equal parts; the N. consisting partly of the extensive alluvial tract along the 1. bank of the Ganges, and stretching N. to the forests of Nepaul and Morung ; the S. consisting partly of a similar tract along the r. bank of that river, and an extensive moun tainous tract commonly called Nagpoor, from the diamond mines it was supposed to contain. The province of Bahar is divided into six districts or zillahs, and is, in respect of natural advantages, one of the most highly favoured in Hin doostan. Its climate is temperate and healthy, though sub ject, particularly towards the centre, and during the hot season, to a parching W. wind, succeeded, however, towards evening, by a cool breeze from the E. The cold season among the hills is singularly bracing to European constitutions. At sun rise during that season, the temperature ranges between 35 and 40, and often, in the course of the same day, reaches 75 Fah. The province is well watered. In addition to the Ganges, which traverses it centrally, it possesses the Sone, the Gundach, the Caramnassa, and the Dewah, with almost innumerable smaller streams. The soil, particularly in the plains, is of remarkable fertility. In the tracts S. of the Ganges, irrigation is usually effected by means of wells, from which the water is drawn by a lever and buckets ; in other parts, by damming up the streams. The chief products are opium (the staple commodity), indigo, sugar-cane, rice, wheat, maize, cotton, flax, sesamum, ginger, pepper, tobacco, betel- leaf, and a variety of flowering plants, from which essences are made. There are, besides, considerable numbers of cattle reared. The manufactures consist of cottons (once a staple of great importance, but now almost entirely superseded by English imports), carpets, essences, as rose-water, and otto of roses ; oils, refined sugar, saltpetre, hides, soap, earthenware, and paper. The natives of Bahar excel the Bengalese in stature and physical strength, and in general have better houses, many of them in the towns being two stories high, but they fall below them in cleanliness, domestic economy, and moral propriety. Intoxication is nearly universal, and religion is mocked in the persons of a degraded and dissolute priesthood. The capital of Bahar is Patua. At a remote period of Hindoo history, Bahar seems to have been the seat of two independent sovereignties, that of Magadh.i or S. Bahar, and Mithila (Tirhoot) or N. Bahar. There are no Buddhists here, although Gaya, the birthplace of Buddha, the great prophet and legislator of E. Asia, is within the limits of the province. Bahar was transferred to the British in 1765. Pop. (one-third Mahometans) 9,101,492. The DISTRICT occupies the central portion, bounded N. by the Ganges, E. by Bhaugalnore, S. by Ramghnr and Bhaugalpore, and W. by Shahabad; greatest length, N.E. to S. W., 1 65 m. ; breadth, 68 m. ; area, 5694 sq. m. The greater jiart of the country consists of a rich alluvial plain, bounded on the N. by the Ganges, is level and highly cultivated. BAIIAWULPOOR BAHIA although barren isolated hills are of frequent occurrence, par ticularly in the centre of the district. None of these, how ever, attain a greater elevation than 700 ft. ; but in the S. parts, there are hills of nearly twice that height. The principal rivers besides the Ganges, are the Sone or Golden river, the Punpun, the Phalgu or Fulgo, the Saeri, and the Panchaue, with their numerous branches. About 500 sq. m. are covered with woods and thickets, consisting of palms, bamboos, mangoes, pomegranates, fig-trees, apple, and other fruit-trees. Hot springs and volcanic substances are met with in various places. The principal wild animals arc black bears, spotted tigers, badgers, ichneumons, jackals, squirrels, foxes, hares, dogs, and monkeys ; porpoises, alliga tors, and fish abound in the Ganges ; birds are numerous, but all song-less. The climate is on the whole healthy, though the heats of spring are excessive, and the E. and W. winds hot and parching. The chief productions are wheat, barley, maize, and rice, about a fourth of which, of superior quality, named bismati, is in great demand in the markets of Calcutta. The lands near the Ganges yield two crops a year. Cruciferous plants, ginger, capsicum, turmeric, corian der, linseed, sesamum, potatoes, and legumes, are also exten sively cultivated, together with many other kinds of succulent vegetables ; cotton, sugar-cane, tobacco, betel-leaf, safflower, and indigo, are likewise cultivated to a greater or less extent. Poppies are grown in great quantities in garden land carefully watered, generally along with onions, garlic, and coriander. The manufactures consist of cottons, carpets, blankets, paper, soap, leather in many shapes, bricks, coarse earthenware, &c. There are six great places of pilgrimage in this district, and 200,000 pilgrims have been known to visit one of them called Gaya in a year. The chief towns of the district are Gaya (the capital), Bahar, Shorgotty, Daudnagar, Unvul, &c. The villages are numerous, consisting of mud-built houses, huddled together without regard to regularity or comfort. It is di vided into twenty-eight pergunnahs. Pop. 2,500,000, of whom about a fourth are Mahometans. The TOWN is in the above district; lat. 25 13 N. ; Ion. 85 35 E. ; 40 m. S.E. Patna, 265 m. N.W. Calcutta. It is a large straggling place, built chiefly around a ditch marking out the boundary of the ancient city, which, though now nearly deserted, must have been a place of importance, and was probably the capital both of the district and province. The best part of the town consists of a long, narrow street, roughly paved with bricks and stones, but presenting, altogether, a wretched appearance. In the centre are the remains of a massive stone building, roofed with a number of small domes, having its interior divided into as many cells, resembling the Patan mosques of the upper provinces. The environs are well cul tivated, and improved by irrigation. Pop. about 25,000. BAHAWULPOOR, BIIAWULPOOK, or DOADPOOTRA, a thinly-peopled principality, N.W. Hindoostan, between lat. 2T 41 and 30 25 N. ; Ion 69 30 and 73 58 E.; bounded N. and N.W. by the Punjab, from which it is separated by the rivers Gharra, Punjnud, and Indus ; W. by Sinde ; S. and S.E. by the Jesselineer, and Beckaneer ; and E. by Sikh territories of Patiala ; length, N.E. to S.W. about 300 m.; breadth, about 100 m. at the broadest part. Along the rivers forming the N.W. boundary, the soil is fertile, producing cereals, tobacco, indigo, and sugar, and in this district are situated all the important towns in the principality, Bahawul- poor, Ahmedpoor, Seedapoor, and Och. The remainder of the territory to the S.E. is nearly wholly included in the Great Indian desert ; and consists of arid sand covered with the prickly pear, and saline plants. In some spots, however, a scanty vegetation is met with, supplying food to the herds belonging to nomadic tribes frequenting these localities. The domestic animals are the camel, reared in great numbers in the desert ; the buffalo, the cow, the gaddi or short-tailed sheep, the goat, &c. Poultry is plentiful. West, near the rivers, wild fowl are so abundant that, according to Masson, a goose may be had for a halfpenny, and two or three ducks for the same sum. Many of the inhabitants are Juts and Belooches (Ma hometans), but the majority are Hindoos. The manufactures, carried on almost entirely by the latter, consist chiefly of silken girdles and turbans, and a species of cottons called coongees, of remarkably fine texture. The merchants, also Hindoos, manifest a considerable degree of enterprise, and carry on an extensive trade, chiefly in articles of European VOL. I. manufacture, received by way of Beckaneer, and the desert of Ajmeer. The merchants of Bahawulpoor are not unfre- quently seen in Balkh and Bokhara, and sometimes even in Astrakhan. Bahawulpoor is governed by a khan, whose mili tary force consists of about 2500 regular troops, with about 4000 of a heterogeneous class. Chief tns. Bahawulpoor (the cap.), Ahmedpoor, Ooch, and Khanpoor. P. estimated at 600,000. BAHAWULPOOR, cap. above principality, about 2 m. from the Gharra, 55 m. S.S.E. Mooltan, and 330 m. W.N.W. Delhi ; lat. 29 J 32 N. ; Ion. 71 40 E. It is a place of con siderable antiquity, and had walls, indications of which may still be traced along the public walk. The houses, chiefly of kiln-burnt bricks, are much mixed with gardens, which give them an isolated and straggling appearance. The whole is encircled by groves of date and pipal-trees. The only public buildings deserving of notice are the palaces of the khan, though in appearance they are not very attractive residences. The manufactures are numerous, and some of them costly. They consist chiefly of silk stuffs and coongees. The trade also is extensive. Pop. about 20,000. BAHIA, the name, with various affixes, of a number of bays in different parts of the world: 1, Bahia de Todos-os- Santos, see ALL SAINTS BAY. 2, Bahia Blanca, a bay in S. America, Buenos Ayres ; lat. 38 59 S. ; Ion. 61 40 W. (n.) 3, Bahia Honda, a bay on the N.W. coast of Cuba ; lat. 22 59 N.; Ion. 83 13 W. (it.) 4, Bahia Honda, a bay on the S.W. coast of Guatimala; lat. 7 43 30" N.; Ion. 81 31 W. (R.) 5, Bahia Honda, S. America, Venezuela, at the extremity of the promontory forming the W. side of the gulf of the latter name; lat. 12 19 N.; Ion. 71 48 W. (R.) BAHIA, a maritime prov. Brazil, cap. Bahia, bounded, W. and N. by Pernambuco, from which it is separated by the Eio Suo Francisco ; N.W. by Sergipe ; E. by the Atlantic ; and S. by Espirito Santo, from which it is separated by the Eio Mucuri or Mucury, and Minas Geraes, towards which it is bounded by the Rio Pardo and the Eio G urutuba, the latter flowing W. to the SSo Francisco, and the former E. to the ocean. It is comprehended between lat. 9 20 and 16 35 S., and Ion. 37 20 and 44 50 W. ; estimated area, 222,168 sq. in., divided into 13 districts. The province of Bahia is traversed S. to N. by a mountain-range, under vari ous names, Almas, Chapada, &c., at a distance of rather more than 200 m. from the sea, forming the water-shed between the rivers that flow E. to the Atlantic, and those that flow W. to the Eio Sao Francisco. Numerous offsets of this main chain traverse the province in various directions, causing the course of the rivers to deviate less or more from their general direc tion of E. or W. Gold and copper are rare, but mines of silver exist, though they have not been wrought, on account of the presumed small quantity of the precious metal in them ; iron, granite, and different kinds of clays are abundant in certain localities, as are also limestone, saltpetre, whetstone, and rock- crystal. The principal streams flowing to the Atlantic are, the S. boundary river, the Eio Grande do Belmonte, the Contas, Patipe , Itapicaru, and the Paraguassu, which falls into the Bahia de Todos os- Santos. Besides those named there are numerous others, reaching the ocean either directly or indirectly. The Paramirim and the Eemedio are the principal streams flowing W. to the Eio Silo Francisco, but besides them there are num erous others of less note. Though hilly, the province has also extensive plains, and is throughout well watered ; but, from the limited population, and the agriculturists always preferring the sea- shore or the margin of the rivers, a large portion is still uncultivated. The principal agricultural products are sugar, cotton, tobacco, and coffee, mandioca, rice, beans, and maize. Its supplies of sheep and cattle are drawn from othei provinces. Among its plants and their products are, Brazil wood of several kinds, cedar, gum elerai, and copal, dragon s blood, jalap, ipecacuanha, and saffron. The oranges, mangoes, and numerous other fruits are excellent. This province sends 14 deputies to the general assembly, and seven senators to the upper chamber. Its own provincial legislative assembly is composed of 36 deputies, who are paid both during the session and its prorogations, and receive, besides, an indemnity pro portioned to the distance they have to travel. The revenue of the province for the financial year 1849-50, was estimated at about 74,000 sterling. Besides Bahia, the capital, the principal towns are Jacobina, Cachoeira, C aravellas, San Francisco, Ilheos, &c. Pop. about 800,000. BAHIA 298 BAHIA BAHIA, or SAO SALVADOR, an important maritime city and seaport, S. America, empire of Brazil, cap. prov. of sanio name, beautifully situated in an elevated position on the W. side of a spit of land forming the E. side of the entrance to the Bahia de Todos-os- Santos or All Saints Bay, imme diately within Cape St. Antonio, on which is a revolving light, 140 ft. above the sea level, in lat. 13 42" S.- Ion 38 31 42" W. (R.) It lies 800 m. N.N.E. Rio de Janeiro, and is the seat of the only arch bishopric in the empire. Nothing can be finer than the view of Bahia when seen at a short distance from off the sea ; one part towers above another, and the whitened houses and red-tiled roofs contrast magnificently with the rich foliage interspersed between. It is composed of two parts, the upper (alta) and lower (baixa). The lower or shore town (Eua da Praya) consists of a single narrow, badly-paved, dirty street, with a gutter in its centre, following the sinu osities of the shore, and in all about 4 m. long, from the suburb of Bomfim to the locality called Gamboa. The buildings (of stone) are high, and, though old, have a cheerful exterior; those nearest the shore projecting considerably into the sea. A wide space in this street is i the most important public buildings. The general aspect of the upper city is antique. It is built on the crest of the hill and composed principally of one or two principal streets, which, in their direction, follow the outline of the hill, as the Rua da Praya follows that of the shore, and in all about 6 m. long. These streets are well paved, more, however, with the view of preserving them from injury by rain, than for the further ance of locomotion, which, indeed, in Bahia, except for foot- passengers, appears to be a secondary consideration; the inequality of the ground rendering the use of wheeled-carriages almost impracticable. Rome is not built on so many hills as Bahia, which, according to one writer, is so irregular in its surface, as to give it the appearance of having been thrown up by an earthquake. The wealthier class progress through the streets in a sort of litter or palanquin, called cadeira ; and sugar, cotton, and coffee are borne along in bags on the heads of the negroes, or in bulkier packages, hung by slings from poles, supported on the shoulders of slaves. On one of the most commanding heights of the city is placed the finely-wooded public promenade (Passeio publico) , from which a magnificent view of the ocean is obtained ; it overlooks, likewise, the city and bay, towards which latter it is bordered by a steep pre cipice, protected by an iron railing. A marble monument, to commemorate the landing of Don John VI., the first royal governor of Brazil, decorates the promenade. The city is divided into ten parishes, each having its own church, the most important of which is the cathedral, Sao Salvador ; but numerous other places of worship are scattered through the city; so much so, that it exceeds every other city in the empire for the number and the sumptuousness of its churches. Many of these are attached to monasteries and convents ; which, with their inmates, are, in like manner, more numerous here than elsewhere, and all in the most excellent state of repair. Such are the convents of Benedictines, Carmelites shod and unshod, Franciscans, Capuchins, &c. Among the churches attached to the religious houses, that of Nossa Senhora da Piedade is a large important Spanish edifice. Bahia is abundantly provided with public buildings. Besides those a market-place ; and near it is the exchange, no way remarkable for architectural beauty, but worthy of attention for having been constructed of the best native materials. In this part of the city dwell the mercantile agents, and here the great business bustle exists, the streets being continually thronged with pedlars, carriers, &c., increased in consequence of the difficulty of using carriages or sledges of any kind, from the unevenness of the ground. Recent alterations have, however, greatly improved the ap pearance of the lower town, into which omnibuses have been introduced. Here likewise are situated the custom-house, those stores or magazines called trapiches, for merchandise of all kinds; the granary, the arsenal, and the shipbuilding- yard. One of the most note-worthy edifices in this part of Bahia is the large church of Conceicao or Conception, built of stones brought cut and ready from Lisbon. The upper town lies at an elevation of several hundred feet above the lower town ; and the streets connecting the two parts are con sequently very steep, following, in some instances, the zig zag course of ravines, and in others slanting across the hill- slope. This is the larger, finer, and more populous part of the city. Here the wealthier classes dwell, and here are situated HO.SPICE DE NOSSA SENHORA DA PIEDADE. From Rugf-ndas, Voyage Pittoresque duns le Bresil. mentioned as being in the low town, the more important are the governor s palace, a large quadrangular edifice, of 600 ft. on each face ; the archiepiscopal palace, communicating with the cathedral ; the mint, foundry, courthouse, prison, a public and a military hospital, orphan seminary, theatre, and granary. These are all stone, and mostly solidly-constructed buildings, but none of them possessing especial pretensions to architec tural beauty or elegance. The suburbs of Bahia are beauti ful, Victoria hill being peculiarly so. Here are situated the finest houses and gardens of the city, the residences of the principal British merchants, and the English cemetery. At the Campo do forte do Sao Pedro is an English Protestant chapel. In 1811, a public library was established in the city; which likewise has a surgical school and an agricultural society, an excellent collegiate institution, 16 primary schools, and a normal school, besides several private schools. The upper BAHIA 299 BAHKE1N town has some printing-presses, and is the scat of the manu factures of the place, consisting of tobacco, glass, brandy, &c. Alternate land and sea breezes render the climate of Bahia pleasant, though the temperature ranges between 75 and 85 Fah. The harbour of Bahia is one of the best in America, and suitable for vessels of any size. The bay which forms it is much more extensive than the celebrated bay of Rio de Janeiro. The harbour is defended by seven forts, and at its entrance is a lighthouse. War vessels lie in front of the city, S.E. of fort S2o Marcello; merchant vessels lie further N.W., towards fort Montserrat. The commerce of Bahia consists chiefly in the export of sugar, cotton, tobacco, rum, and other articles of native product ; but it has fallen off considerably since the revolution of 1837, and does not appear even now to be re covering itself. One considerable branch, th importation of slaves, has been materially curtailed by the activity of British cruisers, and by the withdrawal of British credits of money, consequent upon repeated losses from seizure of the slave ves sels. The whale-fisheries of this city were once the greatest in the world ; and a considerable number of whales are still caught in the neighbouring seas, and brought in here for flensing and boiling. Notwithstanding the fetid effluvia dif fused by the decaying animal matter, the capture of a whale is the occasion of general triumph in Bahia. Hundreds of the people, the coloured especially, throng round to witness the monster s dying struggles, and to procure portions of his flesh, which they cook and eat. Vast quantities of this flesh are cooked and sold in the streets. Numbers of swine also feast upon the carcass of the whale. The following table of the vessels cleared and entered at the port of Bahia, 1840 to 1847, shows that the number of vessels and the amount of tonnage has fluctuated considerably, and on the whole has decreased : STATEMENT of the NUMBER and TONNAGE OF VESSELS, belonging to various Nations, Entered and Cleared at the PORT or BAIIIA, in each year from 1840 to 1847. ENTERED. CLEARED. Years. Vessels. Tons. Vessels. Tons. 1840 767 109,261 764 112,075 1841 1061 138,026 936 139,350 1842 297 69,312 282 70,010 1843 286 67,280 301 73,4-19 1844 300 70,111 288 71,709 1845 378 89,347 367 <JO,783 1846 411 98,533 369 91,861 18 i7 335 76,230 335 78,537 A similar general result of decrease in the exports is ex hibited by the following table, notwithstanding the evident increase in some important articles : STATEMENT of the QUANTITIES of the PRINCIPAL ARTICLES OP DOMESTIC PRODUCE exported from the PORT OF BAHIA to various countries, in each year, from 1843 to 1846. SUGAR. COTTON. COFKEE. TOBACCO. HIDES. PIASSAVA. TAPIOCA. Vears. Cases. boxes. llimli. Bags. Bundles. Bags. Rolls. Packages. Bales. No. Bundles. Barrels. 18-K3 39,139 661 2005 18,342 208 11,439 3827 63,032 6,390 152,838 33,813 1335 1844 54,036 772 1949 18,937 16,490 1763 68,452 5,247 130,290 24,170 2057 1845 1846 77,792 67,565 1211 1332 3628 3425 11,724 10,913 " 12,373 20,443 3889 S674, 90,917 57,631 12,884 18,678 124, . 05 125,634 39,114 38,802 3966 471 The imports consist chiefly in manufactured articles ; and possessing no returns for the port of Bahia alone, we present the following table of the imports of the province, which are evidently on the increase : STATEMENT of the VALUE OF THE IMPORTS into the PRO-VINCE OF BAHU,J>0M various Countries in each year from 1840 to 1846. 1814.. 1815.. . 1,070,996 .... 1,241,121 .... 1,431,548 1810 1841 1842 910,690 1843 1,009,264 Bahia de Todos-os-Santos, or All Saints Bay, was discovered in 1503, by Americus Vespucius. In 1510, a vessel com manded by Diogo Alvares Correa, was wrecked near the entrance of the bay, and every one, himself excepted, was murdered by the Tupinambas Indians. Having secured a musket, and saved some powder and ball, CoiTea soon acquired unbounded influence over the Indians, who knew nothing of fire-arms ; and in process of time, he married Paraguassu, daughter of the head chief, Itaparica, whose name was given to the large island in front of the city. He now began a settle ment, which he named Sao Salvador, subsequently recognized by the Portuguese Government as the capital of the Brazilian empire, and residence of the Governor-general, the first one, Thomaz de Souza, landing in 1549. From this time it con tinued to increase rapidly in size and importance, but under went many vicissitudes of fortune, having been taken by the Dutch, and, even after reverting to its original possessors, it euffered from the attacks of its former captors. It continued to be the capital till 1763, when the viceroyalty was trans ferred to Ivio de Janeiro. In 1808, Don John, the first member of the royal family who came to Brazil, landed as stated above. He was pressed to make his court at Bahia, the citizens promising to erect him a magnificent palace. The wide mouth of the bay, and the difficulty of effectually fortifying the harbour, formed a weighty objection to the city as a residence for royalty. The Prince regent, therefore, resolved to pass on to Kio de Janeiro ; but, before the fleet weighed anchor, he communicated to Count de Ponte, the governor, that celebrated document the Carta llegia, by which the ports of Brazil were thrown open to the commerce of all nations. The first printing- press was established in 1811, and the first sugar-mill was introduced from England in 1815. At the Portuguese re volution in 1820, Bahia was plunged into the horrors of civil war, from which it was freed in 1823. It had a small revolution of its own in 1837, which did great damage to the prosperity of the city, but was soon suppressed by the supreme Government. Pop. about 120,000. (Diccio. Geo. Imp. Brazil; Kidder s Brazil; Gardner s Travels in Brazil- Parliamentary Papers; Private Information.) BAHIA-NEGRA, a lake, Brazil, prov. Matto- Grosso, r. bank, Paraguay, on the confines of Bolivia ; lat. 20 8. It is about 20 in. long by about 7 broad. Its waters are of a dark colour, whence its name Negra (black], and flow S. to the Paraguay 35 m. below Nova Coimbra. BAHLINGEN, or BALINGEN. 1, A tn. Wurtemberg, circle of the Black Forest, valley of the Eyach and Steinach, 25 m. S.S.W. Stuttgardt. It has two churches, one of them containing the tomb of Count Frederick von Zollern. It carries on an active business in the manufacture of woollen stuffs, hosiery, and leather ; has also several breweries and distilleries, and a considerable trade in grain. Pop. 3230. The DISTRICT of Bahlingen has a pop. of 32,000, in 31 parishes. It lies along the Swabian Alps, the highest summit of which, Oberhohenberg, 3369 ft. above the sea level, is within it. 2, A vil. grand duchy of Baden, circle of the Upper Khine, 11 m. N.\V. Freiburg. Pop. 1750. BAHN, a tn. Prussia, gov. Stettin, circle, Greifenhagen, r. bank, Thue, 22 m. S. Stettin. It is walled, and contains 2000 inhabitants, who live by agriculture and the manufacture of straw bonnets. BAHREIN, a group of three islands, in a deep bay, on the S. side of the Persian Gulf; to the largest of which, exclusively, Europeans give the name of Bahrein, and the natives, Awal or Aval (i.e., the first) ; close to it is Mahragh ; while Arad adjoins the mainland to the S.E. Arab geo graphers, on the other hand, apply to the whole of this tract of coast the expressive name Bahrein, which signifies the two waters, that is, the salt and the fresh water ; the distinguishing peculiarity of this coast being the number and copiousness of the fresh-water springs which gush forth from the bottom of the sea along the shore. To this abundance of good water is attributable the comparatively dense population of the coast, which is, in general, sterile and forbidding. Some villages have pumps in the sea ; but the chief supply of fresh water, BAHR-EL-ABIAD 300 BAIKAL "^" both for the mainland and the islands, is furnished by divers, who, on reaching the bottom, hold their goatskins open over the springs, and are quickly carried up by the ascending cur rent. Awal extends about 25 m. in length N. to S., with an average breadth of 8 m. ; its N. extremity, where stands the capital town Manama, with a good-sized harbour for vessels of moderate size, being in lat. 26 12 N. ; Ion. 50 40 E. A ridge of low hills runs through the island N. to S. About a fifth of the island is under cultivation, and being well irrigated, is extremely fertile; producing, besides wheat, barley, and dates, a great variety of tropical fruits. This is the centre of the Persian Gulf pearl-fishery, which is carried on with the greatest advantage on the banks in a moderate depth of water. The diving commences in June, but becomes more productive in the three following months, when the temperature of the sea increases. Bahrein is said to own 3000 boats engaged in this business, besides 150 vessels of larger size. The annual value of the fish ery has been variously estimated at from 90,000 to five times that amount; per haps the lowest estimate is intended to re present what accrues to the fishermen, who are always kept in debt to their employers, and extremely poor. Manama, being much resorted to by foreign merchants, is well provided with ample earavanseries, and boasts also of a handsome mosque. Its population may amount to 5000. It is supposed that there are 40,000 inhab itants in Awal, and 20,000 in the other islands. Bahrein was occupied by the Portuguese in the 16th century ; but, in 1622, they were expelled by the Persians. These, after many con tests with the Arabs, finally withdrew from the island in 1790. Subsequently, the Waha by extended their sway over the islands as well as the coast; but since 1819 their power has been extinct, and the peaceful fisherman is now protected by British cruisers. BAHR-EL-ABIAD. See ABIAD (BAHR-EL-.) BAHR-EL-AZREK. See AZREK (BAHR-EL-.) a celebrated watering-place of ancient Italy, AY. shore of the Bay of Naples, and 8 m. \V. the city of same name. This Campanian Brighton, once the place where the wealthy Romans had their country-seats, is now deserted. Its great attractions were its hot springs, and its picturesque situation, on a beautiful bay, sheltered by surrounding hills from the violence of the winds. The strip of land, however, that lay between the hills and the sea was too narrow for the numerous mansions with which it was crowded, and men who possessed half a province elsewhere, contended here for a single acre. Those who could find no room on the bank, built into the sea. But, on the decline of Rome, Baiae fell into decay ; its villas and palaces were deserted, and the dikes and other contriv ances by which the sea was held back being neglected, the waters resumed their ancient territory, overwhelming the mansions of the voluptuous Romans. The temple of Jupiter Serapis is the most celebrated monument of antiquity in the neighbourhood of Baise ; and has recently acquired great additional interest in the eyes of the geologist, from the un equivocal evidence which it affords of great alternating changes in the relative level of sea and land in the surrounding dis trict, two of them since the Christian era, and each exceeding 20 ft. The evidence of this important fact is derived chiefly from three pillars, still standing, which, at the height of 23 ft. above high-water mark, exhibit perforations by lithodomi and other marine animals ; of course, proving incontestably that at the time when these perforations were made, the pillars must, up to that height at least, have been submerged. BAIBOUT, or BAIBOURT, a tn. Asiatic Turkey, pash. of, and 61 m. W. by N. Erzeroom, r. bank, Tchorak, on the road between Erzeroom and Trebizonde. It is irregular and ill built ; occupying the base of an insulated hill, on the summit of which is an ancient castle fortified by an outer wall, which descends far down the hill. The castle was one of the strong- which cover aconsiderable extent of ground, display much bean- tiful masonry ; while the numerous towers, of all forms, with which the walls are strengthened, are remarkably well built. The fall of snow at Baibout, iu winter, is so great, as to @ THE TOWN A?TD CASTLE OF BAIDOUT. From Texicr, Inscription de 1 Armenie la Perse. So. interrupt all communication with the neigbouring villages for several months together. Cow dung, baked in the sun, con stitutes the fuel of the poorer classes, who can afford no other. The inhabitants are described as a stout, active, hardy race, and of mild and civil manners. Pop. 3000. BAIERSDORF, or BAYERSDORF, a tn. Bavaria, circle, Middle Franconia, dist. Erlangen, 14 m. N. Niirnberg, on the railway between that city and Bamberg, and on the Ludwig Canal. It contains a parish church, a synagogue, and the ruins of the palace of Scharfeneek ; and has a copper -work and numerous needle-factories. Pop. 1546, of whom 440 are Jews. BAIKAL [Russian, Svriatoje More Holy Sea], an ex tensive alpine lake, Siberia, gov. Irkutsk, between lat. 51" and 56 N., and Ion. 103 and 110 E. ; greatest length, measured through its centre, from N.E. to S.W., about 380 m.; average breadth, from 30 to 40 m. ; area, 11,200 geo. sq. m. It has somewhat the form of a crescent, with its concavity towards the W., and is surrounded on all sides by lofty moun tain-ranges, intersected usually by dark precipitous ravines, but sometimes, also, by wider valleys covered with pines. These mountains often rise up precipitously in fantastic peaks from the shore of the lake, and appear to be continued as pre cipitously beneath its surface in some parts, a depth of 100 fathoms ; in others, no bottom has yet been found. The preval ence of volcanic rocks, and the violent twisting and upheaving of the more regular strata by their agency, together with the thermal springs which abound in the neighbourhood, seem to justify the belief generally entertained, that the bed of the lake is the crater of an extinct volcano. This belief derives additional support, from the fact that volcanic agency is still active throughout the surrounding country. Scarcely a year elapses without an earthquake. The level of the lake is 1420 ft. above that of the sea an elevation which, taken in connection with the cold mountainous region in which it lies, accounts for the long period during which it continues frozen. Snow usually begins about the end of August. Shortly after, winter sets in, and the lake begins to be frozen only par tially, however, as the whole surface is seldom frozen over before the middle of December. Thereafter it continues so, and may be traversed on sledges till the end of April. The lake receives the drainage of a vast extent of country, not fewer than 200 streams pouring their water into it. Of these the most important are the Selenga and the Bargousin, which both join it on its E. shore ; and the Upper Angara, which falls into its N. extremity by four mouths. The only outlet is the Lower Angara, a tributary of the Yenisei, which brings Lake Baikal into communication with the remotest parts of holds belonging to the Genoese, who were permitted by the ( W. Siberia. Though both a broad and a rapid river, the sovereigns of Armenia to establish a line of fortified stations water which it carries off has been estimated at less than a through their kingdom to the frontier of Persia. The ruins, | tenth of that which the lake receives. The lake has no BATLEN 301 BAJA islands at any considerable distance from its shores, but num bers of them situated near the mouths of the principal streams, and formed, probably, by their deposits. The largest of all, Olkhon, not far from the middle of the W. coast, is above 40 m. long by about 15 broad, but, with exception of a little pasturage in its interior, and a few birches, pines, and brush wood along its rocky sides, is, as its name in Mongolian implies, completely barren. Lake Baikal abounds in fish, particularly sturgeon and sterlet, salmon, salmon trout, omoul, and a very remarkable fish called kalamenka, which, though only from 4 to 6 inches long, is a mere mass of fat, and is often thrown up dead upon the shores in immense shoals. Seals also, though naturalists are very much puzzled to know how they got there, are very numerous; and, at certain seasons, the air is perfectly filled with flocks of swans and ducks. The shores of the lake are thinly peopled, and are occupied chiefly by the Tunguses and Bouriats ; the latter the more numerous, and almost all employed in the fisheries, which are of considerable commercial importance. Sturgeon is caught in large quantities throughout the summer, and salted, and, together with the caviare and isinglass obtained from it, is largely exported ; but the most important fishery is that of the omoul (Salmo migrator ius), which, though rather capricious in its habits, generally appears in vast numbers between August and September. The kalamenkas are seldom taken alive, but furnish large quantities of oil, which finds ready purchasers among the Chinese. The situation of the lake makes it the channel of a considerable traffic, particularly between the E. and W. During the frozen season, sledges laden with goods are continually passing and repassing, while a considerable number of small vessels, of a peculiar construc tion, are similarly employed during the summer months. An enterprising merchant was lately employed in building a steam-vessel, which, in all probability, has been completed, and is now navigating the lake. (Erman ; Hitter ; Marost, Nouv. Annul, de Voyages; Ernst Hofmann.) BAILEN, or BAYLEN, a tn. Spain, in Andalusia, prov. of, and 20 m. N.N.E. Jaen, in a mountain district, on the high road from Madrid to Seville. It has spacious streets, three well-paved squares, a large Gothic church, townhall, five schools, an hospital, prison, public storehouse, cemetery, a castle, and a palace of the Counts of Beneveute. The in habitants are engaged in manufacturing linen, glass, bricks, tiles, soap, expressing oil, distilling brandy, and in agriculture and cattle-rearing. A mine of antimony is wrought in the vicinity. On July 19, 1808, Bailen was the scene of the first victory in the peninsular war, gained by the Spaniards over the French. Pop. 4976. BAILIEBOROUGH, a small market tn. and par. Ireland, co. of, and 15 m. S.E. Cavan. The town, though a sequestered place, is well built, has a respectable appearance, and the markets are well attended. It possesses an established church, two R. catholic chapels, two Presbyterian meeting-houses, several schools, a bridewell, and a large union workhouse. Bailieborough Castle, an extensive and handsome edifice, stands about 1 m. from the town. Pop. of tn. 1203. Area of par. 1 2,416 ac. Pop. 6984. BAILIQUE, PENITENCIA, MARRIATUBA, or ARIPOKE, an isl. Brazil, prov. Para, in the mouth of the Amazon, 40 m. S. Cabo Norte, near the embouchure of the Araguari ; lat. (N. point) 1 4 N. ; Ion. 49 56 W. (R.) It is about 20 m. long by 3 or 4 broad, about 10 in. from the shore, has a village, and about 100 Indian families. BAILLEUL [anc. Baliolum], a tn. France, dep. Nord, arrond. of, and 10m. E. Hazebrouck. It is situated on an eminence, and generally well built. The houses are mostly built in the Flemish style. Large numbers of cattle graze the rich meadows around the town. Manufactures : various kinds of thread, lace, cloth, linen and cotton goods, &c. There are also here a sugar-work, a pottery, several breweries, and some oil-mills. A considerable trade in corn, cattle, cheese, and other agricultural produce, is carried on. Pop. 5988. BAILLEUL is the name of several other small towns in France. BAIN, a tn. France, dep. Ille-et-Villaine, arrond. of Redon, 18 m. S. Rennes, formerly an episcopal see, and a place of some note in the province of Brittany. Manufactures: voollen stuffs. Trade : cattle. Pop. 1249. BAINS (LEs), two watering-places, France: 1, Called also Amelie-les-Bains (which see). 2, Bains, or Bains -les- Bains, a neat tn., dep. Vosge.3 (Lorraine), arrond. of, and 16m. S.W. Epinal, in a fine valley, traversed by the streamlet Bargnerot, which shortly after joins the Coney. The thermal springs here have been known since the Romans invaded Gaul, although little use was made of them during the Middle Ages. What is called the Old Bath was constructed in 1713, and the New Bath in 1750. The springs, which are 10 in number, have a temperature varying from 93 to 122 Fah. The I baths are used principally for chronic affections, rheumatism, indigestion, and female complaints. The bathing establish ment is very complete. Bains has forges, and a work for making sheet-iron for tinsmiths. Pop. 1505. Two places .in France, in addition to the above, have the name of BAINS. BAINTON, two pars. Eng.: 1, Bainton (St. Andrew), York, E. Riding ; 3280 ac. Pop. 452. 2, Bainton (St. Mary), Northampton; 9GO ac. Pop. 161. BAIRAMITSH, a tn. Asiatic Turkey, pash. Anatolia, 55 m. S.W. Beja, and 25 m. N.W. Adramyti. ; lat. 39 45 N. ; Ion. 36 25 E. It is regularly built. Roman antiquities abound in the vicinity. BAIRDSTOWN, a post township, U. States, cap. Nelson co., Kentucky. Contains a courthouse, jail, market-house, church, a bank, an academy and school, both well attended ; and a R. catholic seminary, founded in 1819, called the College of St. Joseph, under the direction of the R. catholics, with a president, and 13 professors or teachers. Pop. (1840), 1492. BAIREUTH, or BAYREUTH, a tn. Bavaria, circle, Upper Main, on the Red Main, 41 m. N.E. Niirnberg. It lies in a pleasant district, among rich meadows, at the foot of the Fichtel Mountains. It is partly surrounded by old walls, and has some pleasant promenades. The houses are lofty, and well built of hewn stone ; the streets spacious, well paved, and occasionally adorned with fountains. It contains the palace of Duke Pius of Bavaria, an opera-house, a riding- school and gymnasium, seven churches (six Protestant and one R. catholic), a synagogue, a public library, and some benevolent and charitable institutions. Principal manufac tures : stoneware and porcelain, tobacco-pipe heads, parch ment, linen, and cottons. There are also in the town a paper- mill, a factory for playing-cards, works for cutting marble and glass, a sugar-refinery, a bell-foundry, tanneries at which both white and red leather are prepared, and several breweries. In the neighbourhood are three palaces, Fantasie, Sanspareil, and Hermitage. The first is surrounded by gardens, well laid out in terraces and alcoves, which are a favourite resort of the inhabitants of Baireuth. In the last are shown the apartment and bed of Frederick the Great. In a cemetery at the entrance of the town, is a monument erected by the King of Bavaria to the celebrated writer, Jean Paul Frederick Richter, who died here in 1825. Pop. 17,000. BAIRRO, two vils. Brazil, prov. Sao Paulo : 1, Four m. N. Sao Sebastiao ; lat. 23 45 S. It has a convent of Fran ciscans ; and its inhabitants, all Indians, are occupied in fishing. The women manufacture some clay vessels. 2, Bairro-das- Silveiras, on the N.E. frontiers of the province, near the town of Lorena, in province Rio de Janeiro. It has a church ; and around it the ordinary necessaries of life are cultivated, and likewise some coffee, which is sent to Rio de Janeiro. Pop. 2000. BAISE, or BAYZE, a river, S. of France, rising in dep. Hautes-Pyre ne es, flowing N., and falling into the Garonne near Aiguillon, dep. Lot-et-Garonne, after a course of 99 m. It has been rendered navigable, by means of locks and sluices, from its confluence with the Garonne to Nerac, a distance of between 10 and 15 m. BAISY-THY, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. Brabant, arrond. Nivelles, remarkable as the birthplace of Godfrey of Bouillon, the leader in the first crusade. The inhabitants live by agriculture, brewing, distilling, oil and soap-works. Pop. , 2234. BAIXAS, a vil. France, dep. Pyrenees-Orientales, in a fertile valley which produces wine of good quality, about 6 m. j N.W. Perpignan. In the neighbourhood are marble quarries, and a celebrated grotto, called the Hermitage of St. Catherine, romantically situated in the heart of a little valley, surrounded by barren rocks which overhang the Gly. Pop. 1960. BAJA, a market tn. and lordship, Hungary, co. Bacs- Bodrogh, 92 m. S. Pesth, near 1. bank, Danube. It is the seat of the courts of justice for the county ; has a Greek and BAJADA 302 BAKONYER -WALD a R. catholic church, a synagogue, and a Franciscan mon astery, important markets, and a brisk river-trade. Here is the beautiful chateau of Prince Grassalkovics. Top. 14,834. BAJADA, a considerable tn. and river-port, La Plata, cap. state Entre Rios, 1. bank, Parana, about 10 in. S.E. Santa Fe, and 238 in. N.N.W. Buenos Ayres. The bustle and ani mation which prevail here, present a curious and striking contrast to the solemn silence, interrupted only by the cries of birds, and particularly the chda, which reigns on the banks of the Parana, above and below the town. Provisions are here abundant and cheap. Pop. GOOO. BAJ ADORE, or BOXEADOK (CAFE), in the isl. of Luzon, about 20 in. from its N.W. extremity; in about lat. 18 32 N. ; Ion. 120 39 E. BAJIBO, or BAJIEBO (OLD and NEW), two towns, W. Africa, on the Niger, on opposite banks; lat. 9 31 N. ; Ion. 4 25 E. ; about 47 m. below Boussa, where Park, the cele brated African traveller, was killed. At this town, Lander met with very large canoes, having a hut in the middle, which contained merchants and their whole families. BAJMOCZ, or BOJNITZ, a market tn. Hungary, cap. dist. of same name, co. Neutra, on the Nyitra, 72 m. N. by E. Komorn. It is surrounded with walls ; and contains a parish church and a castle. The German colonists here annually prepare several thousand saddle-trees for the cavalry regi ments, and a great variety of wooden articles are made both in the town and its environs. Pop. 890. BAJOUR, or BAJOOK, a dist. and tn. Afghanistan, N.E. extremity of that kingdom, and on the S. side of the Hindoo- Koosh. The DISTRICT, which consists of a plain, or rather spacious valley, lies between lat. 34 45 and 35 10 N., and Ion. 71 5 and 71 35 E., and is about 25 m. long and 15 broad. It is enclosed by mountains, nearly inaccessible from their steepness, and covered with dense forests, inhabited by numerous wild beasts. The plain is very productive, and is occupied by an Afghan tribe, culled Turcolaunee, about 70,000 or 80,000 in number, who are ruled by a chief of considerable power. The district contains inexhaustible stores of the finest iron ores. The TOWN of Bajour, cap. of the dist., supposed to be the Bazira mentioned by the historians of Alexander, is in lat. 34 50 N. ; Ion. 71 30 E. ; 130 m. N.E. Cabool, and 170 m. N.N.E. Ghuznee. Pop. about 5000. BAKEL, a large, well-built, and thriving vil., W. Africa, in the lower Galam country, 1. bank, Senegal; lat. 14 54 N. ; Ion. 12 14 W. Here the French have a factory, which is tolerably well fortified, and has a garrison of about fifty black soldiers. The surrounding territory is very fertile, but also very unhealthy ; serpents, alligators, and lizards abound in the environs ; and there are clouds of mosquitoes. The factory of Bakel, which is a dependency of the colony of St. Louis, was established in the year 1819. The people are a simple, contented race, have partially adopted European attire and habits, and show some tincture of French politeness. (Raf- fenel s Afrique Occidentale.) BAKE WELL, a market tn. and par. England, co. Derby. The town occupies chiefly the bottom, and one acclivity of a valley, between Buxton and Matlock, 10 m. from the former and 12 from the latter, and consists of four principal streets, generally kept in good order; lighted with gas, and amply supplied with water; houses well built, chiefly of stone. The parish church is a fine old Gothic structure, and contains many interesting monuments ; and the places of worship for Independents, Wesleyans, &c., are some of them handsome edifices. The educational means are an endowed grammar school, a national and British school, and a few parish schools. Bakewell likewise possesses a dispensary, clothing society, and a mechanics institute. The only trade is marble-cutting, which is carried on to a considerable extent, the workmanship being reckoned of a superior description. In the immediate vicinity there is a cotton-mill, erected by the late Sir Richard Arkwright. The chalybeate baths of Bakewell, formerly celebrated, have been lately re-established by the Duke of Rutland. Market on Friday ; four fairs annually. The parish comprises 43,020 ac., chiefly hilly ground. Pop. of par. (1841), 10,363; of tn. 1976. -(Local Correspondent.) BAKHMONT, a tn. Russia, gov. of, and 130 m. E. Ekaterinoslav, cap dist. of its own name; a region of steppes. Here some coal is mined, and there is a brisk traffic in horses and cattle The town, founded in 1708, was once fortified and flourishing. Pop. 4000. BAKHTEGAN, a salt lake, Persia, prov. Fars, about 12 m. S.E. Shiraz. Its dimensions do not seem to be ac curately ascertained; some authorities giving it a length of 60 in., while Kinneir, in his Geographical Memoirs of the Persian Empire, gives it about that measure of circumference. During summer the lake is nearly dry, and its bottom be comes encrusted with a remarkably fine salt, much esteemed :hroughout the province. BAK1ITIYARI MOUNTAINS, a range of mountains i S.W. Persia, stretching N.W. and S.E. between, and par allel to, the rocky range of Awa and Laristan. None of these mountains, or rather ridges of rocky hills, are more than 1000 ft. above their base. The Bakhtiyari Mountains are ihabited by a wild and lawless tribe, who do not hesitate to rob strangers, though not incapable, at times, it is said, of a savage hospitality. They are represented also as a brave and lardy race. They live in villages of about 20 to 30 honses each, in nooks of the mountain, wherever they can get water and grass ; and some establish themselves in caves, of remote nd dangerous access. They calculate their numbers, with their dependencies, at 28,000 families. BAKHTSCHISSARAI, or BAGTCHE-SEKAI, an ancient tn. Russia, gov. Taurida (Crimea), on the Tschourouk-Su, 15 m. S.W. Simferopol. It is the capital in which the khans or Tartar sovereigns of the Tauridian peninsula long held sway, as deputies or tributaries of Turkey, before Russia established herself in the Crimea. Bakhtschissarai is an inter esting place, and is pronounced, by Dr. E. D. Clarke, one of the most remarkable towns in Europe. The Tartar im press is still strong upon it. It stands at the bottom of a arrow valley, hemmed in by precipitous rocks, and watered by a small rivulet, by no means of the most limpid appearance, and consists almost entirely of a single street, built along the side of this rivulet, and lined with bazaars and workshops, in which the Tartar toils, in primitive simplicity, in the produc- .ion of articles of the very same form and quality as furnished by his forefathers two centuries ago. The town contains several mosques, which are usually embosomed among trees, and whose minarets rise high above the houses, and is adorned with numerous fountains. The Karaim Jews, a peculiar sec tion of that people, carry on a considerable trade in common stuff goods, mercery, and colonial produce. The old palace of the khans, a singular edifice, is in good repair, and even suitably furnished. It stands in the centre of the town, and is enclosed by high walls. A bridge gives access to the principal court, which is spacious, planted with Lombardy poplars and lime-trees, and ornamented with an elegant Turk ish fountain, shaded by willows. The buildings present all the usual irregularity of Eastern mansions ; but the wide gal leries, brilliant painting, pavilions, of a make so light that they seem hardly to belong to the body of the edifice, and a profusion of great overshadowing trees, produce an effect seldom obtained by systematic regularity. It first, became the residence of the khans in the year 1475. In the 16th century, their domination extended not only over the entire Tauridian peninsula, but the contiguous territory, W., N., E., and S., from the banks of the Danube to the foot of the Caucasus; but their rule, continually shaken by Russian in vasions and influence, from the year 1736 downward, ceased altogether in 1783, when the country was incorporated with that empire. The number of houses in the town exceeds 2000, inhabited by about 10,000 persons ; the majority of Tartar blood, the rest Russians, Greeks, Armenians, and Jews. (Demidoff; Ilommaire de Hell.) BAKlR-KUREH-si, a small tn. Turkey in Asia, pash. Anatolia; lat. 41 47 N.; Ion. 33 51 E., about 15 m. from the shores of the Black Sea; situated in a deep hollow, sur rounded by lofty mountains, the most remarkable of which is called Bakir Sultan. It consists of about 200 houses, of which only one-half are substantially built, the remainder are the dwellings of poor miners, and often ruinous and un- tenanted. It contains, however, a handsome mosque. The district around was at one time famous for its copper mines, but they have long since been abandoned. BAKONYER-WALD, a forest covered mountain-chain, Hungary, co. Vesprim, N. Lake Balaton or Platten. It is one of the last offsets of the Noric Alps, running S.W. to N.E., BAKU 303 BALAMBANGAN nearly 60 m. long; culminating point, about 2089 ft. high. The hills are covered with excellent timber, consisting chiefly of lime, oak, and beech. Immense herds of swine, known by the name of Bakonyer, are fed in it; and large quantities of oil are extracted from the beech mast. The burning of wood for potash, by which great havoc had been made in the forest, is now under proper regulation. Game is very abundant BAKU, or BADKU, a seaport tn. Russia, cap. of the khanate of Shirvan, in Caucasia, S. shore of the peninsula of Apsheron, W. coast, Caspian Sea, of which it is one of the most frequented ports; lat. 40 21 20" N.; Ion. 49 51 6"E. (L.) The walls of the town were formerly washed by the Caspian, but they are at present about five yards distant from it ; the sea, however, has gained upon the land in other places, the ruins of ancient buildings being found at the depth of upwards of 18 ft. It stands on a declivity, the summit of which is crowned by the palace of the former khans ; is defended by a double wall and deep ditch, constructed in the time of Peter the Great, and has two strong forts, under whose protection ves sels can anchor in from four to six fathoms water, within 80 yards of the shore, in a spacious road, sheltered from all quar ters. The town is ill-built, streets narrow and crooked; the houses small, with flat roofs coated with naphtha. The Vir gin s Tower is the most striking object in the place. There are, however, several spacious mosques, public squares, marts, and caravansaries; a Greek and an Armenian church, and some Tartar schools. The chief exports of the town and neighbourhood are naphtha, salt, and saffron ; in return for which it receives, chiefly from Persia, raw silk and cotton, rich carpets and shawls, rice, &c.; and from Europe, all kinds of ironware and cutlery, cotton, linen, and woollen manufac tured goods, thus becoming an entrepot through which an important trade is carried on between the E. and the W. The adjacent island of Saiian has important fisheries. Pop. 5500. The peninsula of Apsheron is celebrated for its mud vol canoes and naphtha springs, the latter yielding, annually, up wards of 4000 tons. Near these springs is the Artech-gah, or Field of Fire, nearly half a square mile in extent, and from which inflammable gas is continually escaping. In ancient times, it was held in the highest veneration by the Guebers or Parsees, and frequented by thousands of pilgrims. They have still several temples here, and many of them spend their days in worship and in penitential exercises so severe, as often to cost them their lives. The jurisdiction of Baku extends over 32 villages, with 19,000 inhabitants, of whom 1000 are Turkomans. The khanate of Baku was formerly attached to Persia, but wrested from it by Russia about 1723; restored in 1735, but retaken in 1801 by the Russians, to whom it now belongs. BAKU, or BAKOWA, a vil. Moldavia, on the Bistritz, near its confluence with the Sereth. It was formerly a flourishing place, but has now fallen into utter decay, retaining only a very small trade in cattle, corn, salt, and wood. It contains the ruins of a cathedral, having at one time been the residence of a catholic bishop. BALA, a market and assize tn., N. Wales, co. Merioneth, on a plain at the efflux of the river Dee from the N.E. end of Lake Tegid, 18 m. W. by S. Langollen. It consists of one straight, wide street, chiefly of well-built stone houses. It has an Episcopalian chapel, a Welsh Calvinistic Methodist chapel, and chapels for Wesleyans and Independents, all plain buildings ; a school connected with the Welsh Methodists, and one with the Independents, both for educating young men for the ministry. W T oollen stockings and flannels are manufac tured here to a small extent, and there is a considerable trade in butter and cheese. The spring assizes, and the winter and summer quarter-sessions for the county, are held here, and the county court for the recovery of debts. Tegid or Bala Lake, near which the town is situated, is the largest in Wales, being from 12 to 13 m. in circumference; it abounds with trout, carp, and pike. Pop. (1841), 1255. (Local Cor respondent.) BALABAK, or BALABAC, an isl. Indian Archipelago, between the N. of Borneo and Palawan; lat. (middle) 7 59 N.; Ion. 11 6 56 E. (it.), about 20 m. long; yields ebony, sago, hcney, and wax, which, along with the fish caught on the coasts, are purchased by Chinese traders. Pop. 300. S. of this island, and N. of Balambangan and Banguey, is the Balabak Passage. BALABALAGAN. See PATERNOSTERS (LITTLE). BALAGHAUT [above the Ghaut], a dist. Hindoostan, presid. Madras, between lat. 13 15 and 16 20 N.; Ion. 75 40 and 79 20 E.; the territory acquired by the E. India Company, under treaty with the Nizam, in 1800, and since subdivided into the districts of Bellary, Cuddapah, and Kurnool; bounded, N. by the rivers Krishna and Toombu- dra, and comprising the conquests of the Nizam, acquired by the treaties of Seringapatam and Mysore, in 1792 and 1799. There are no large rivers in the country, except the Krishna and Toombudra, which mark its N. boundary. The soil is in gene ral, good, consisting either of a black loam, or of a red gra velly mould. Droughts are frequent, and rains uncertain : yet much mischief is done occasionally by inundations in Sep tember and October. Balaghaut is not well wooded, its forests having been cut down by the numerous armies by which it has been traversed. Only a few clumps are still found, chiefly among the hills. When this district was ceded to the British, it had 50,258 tanks and wells. Indigo, cotton, sugar, betel- leaf, and tobacco, are raised. Neat cattle, sheep, and goats are reared in great numbers. Diamond mines exist in several places, especially in the E. and central divisions, from which the Golconda merchants are supplied, the country so called not producing any. Balaghaut once formed part of the Hindoo empire of Bijana- gur; after the fall of the Delhi dynasty, it was broken into several independent states, was conquered by Hyder between 1766 and 1780, and in 1800 ceded by the Nizam to Great Britain. Area, 28,669 sq. m. Pop. (1836-37), 2,176,003. BALAGUER, a city, Spam, Catalonia, prov. of, and 13 m. N.N.E. Lerida, r. bank, Segre, here crossed by a stone bridge. The city is surrounded by stone walls, with six gates, and has tolerably good, though rather dirty streets, one grand and several smaller squares, a parish and several conventual churches, a townhouse, college, two schools, an hospital, two reservoirs, and, at the N. side, on the top of a commanding hill, a castle, flanked with four towers, of considerable strength, and in good preservation. The inhabitants, though chiefly agricultural, manufacture hempen fabrics and shoes, express oil, and distil brandy. Three fairs are held annually, in March, September, and December. Pop. 4642. BALAKIIXA, a tn. Russia, gov. of, and about 20 m. N. W. Nijni-Novgorod, cap. dist. of same name, r. bank, Volga, where it is joined by the Usola. It was formerly surrounded by wooden walls and towers, which were destroyed by fire ; but it still has a rampart of earth, with a deep fosse. It con tains 15 churches and a convent, and has a considerable trade, chiefly in grain. Its salt springs are no longer used. Pop. 3500. BALAKLAVA, or BALACLAVA, a tn. Russia, on the Black Sea, gov. Taurida, dist. of, and 38 m. S.S.W. Simfero pol; lat. 44" 29 N. ; Ion. 33 34 40" E. It has a good, but little-frequented port, completely sheltered by lofty hills. The general appearance of the town, perched upon heights, is very picturesque, though it is composed chiefly of a single street, with half-deserted shops, and of houses mostly in a ruinous condition, and is surrounded by a half-fallen wall. It has a fortress, placed immediately above the harbour, on an almost inaccessible rock, and is inhabited chiefly by Greeks, who have a handsome church here ; and, though rather indolently disposed, occupy themselves with fishing, particularly that of mackerel. The trade is of very little consequence, but the hills in the neighbourhood contain marble, which is occa sionally worked, and a good deal of timber is shipped. The wine and melons of the district are excellent. Balaklava is the port of the Lystrigonians, at which Ulysses is said to have touched ; and the description of it given by Homer is so gra phic and correct, that Dubois de Montpereux says (Voyage antour du Caucasc), that were he to give a description of the Bay of Balaklava, he could not do better than borrow that of the old poet. Under the domination of the Genoese, it was called Cembalo, a modification of the ancient appellation (Symbalon), given it by Arrian. In the environs is a wooden Greek convent, built, it is believed, on the site of the cele brated ancient temple of Diana Taurica. A number of churches and mosques, in ruins, attest the ancient magnificence of the town. Pop. about 2000. BALAMBANGAN, a fertile, uninhabited isl., Indian Archipelago, 15 m. N. Borneo; lat. (S.W. point) 7 12 N. ; BALANGA 304 BALFROOSH Ion. 110 50 E. ; 15 m. long, and 3 broad. Wood, of various tine sorts, and fresh water, are plentiful ; the sea around abounds with fish, and two good harbours afford anchorage for large vessels. A settlement was formed here, in 1774, by the E. India Company, with a view to the spice trade; but, in the following year, it was treacherously destroyed by the Sooloos; and a second one, formed in 1803, was soon after abandoned. BALAXGA, a tn., isl. Luzon, cap. prov. Bataan, W. side, Bay of Manilla, near the embouchure of a small river. It is esteemed healthy, and is the residence of the alcalde. Pop. tn. and dist. 6855. BALARUC-LES-BAixs, a small tn. and watering-place, France, dep. Herault, 15 m. S.W. Montpellier. The spring, which is saline and thermal, was known to the Romans, who formed aqueducts and built a temple on the spot, and has long been celebrated for its efficacy in cases of paralysis. An hospital has been erected for poor and military patients, whose expenses are defrayed by the public. Enamelled rings are made here. Resident pop. 595. BALASORE [Valesicara], a seaport tn. Hindoostan, presid. Bengal, prov. Orissa, dist. Cuttack, of which it is the chief port; lat. 21 28 N. ; Ion. 87 E. (R.) ; 130 m. S.W. Calcutta, situated in a very populous district, on a low dreary plain, deformed by numerous unsightly ridges and ant-hills, near the muddy banks of the Bura Balany, and considered unhealthy during the rainy season. It is a long straggling town, with a few brick houses, inhabited by merchants carry ing on an inconsiderable traffic with Calcutta, and was for merly a flourishing town, having Portuguese, Dutch, and English factories, but is now greatly decayed. It has dry docks, in which vessels drawing 14 ft. water can be admitted at spring tides, but is chiefly frequented by Maldive vessels, salt-boats, and a class of sloops that carry rice to Calcutta during the cold season. The Maldivians arrive at Balasore during the S.W. monsoon, bringing with them coir, oil, and all the other produce of the cocoa-nut tree, which is their grand staple; cowries, salt fish, turtle- shell, &c., which they exchange for rice, sugar, cutlery, hardwares, cloths, silks, cottons, tobacco, &c., returning home during the N.E. mon soon. Pop. about 10,000. (Pegg s Orissa Mission.) BALASSA-GYARMATH, a market tn. Hungary, co. Neograd, 1. bank, Eipel, 40 m. N.N.E. Pesth, in a bi.-autiful and fertile district, where large crops of wheat are grown. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of an old castle, belonging to the Balassa family, and celebrated for its repeated heroic de fences against the Turks. A congress, for peace between the Turks and Austrians, was held here in 1626. Pop. 4580. BALATON (LAKE OF), or PLATTENSEE, Hungary, 55 m. S.W. Pesth; length, 50 in. ; breadth, 3 to 10 m.; depth, 39 ft, ; area, about 390 sq. m. It receives the water of 32 rivulets, of which the Szala is the largest, and communicates with the Danube by the rivers Sio and Sarviz. It abounds withfogacs, a species of perch. BALATON, by itself, or with an addi tional term, is the name of several villages in Hungary. BALAYAN, a bay, isl. Luzon, prov. Batangas, opposite the N. end of Mindoro Island, about 9 m. long by 6 broad. A village of same name lies a little way N. of the bay. BALBEC. See BAALBEC. BALBRIGGAN, a tn. and seaport, Ireland, co. of, and 18 m. N.N.E. Dublin ; lat. 53 36 42" N. ; Ion. 6 10 42" W. (R.) It consists of one long, and some smaller streets; houses gener ally of stone or brick, and thatched. It contains a neat church, with a handsome spire, a large R. catholic, and a small Metho dist chapel, and has a national, a mixed, and an infant school, a charitable institution, called the Balbriggan Protestant Bene volent Society ; public baths, and a dispensary. It is much resorted to in summer for sea-bathing. Various branches of cotton manufacture were formerly carried on here, and a good deal of embroidery; but, excepting weaving, which still exists to a small extent, the other branches have nearly, or alto gether ceased ; hosiery, however, for which the town has been long famous, still thrives. Balbriggan has likewise some coasting trade ; exports corn and flour, and imports coals. The harbour has a pier, or quay, of about 600 ft. in length, with a lighthouse at the head, at which vessels of 200 tons can discharge. Pop. 2959. (Local Correspondent.) BALCARRY, a small seaport, Scotland, on the W. side of the entrance to Auchiucairn Bay, Solway Frith, co. of, and 10 m. E.S.E. Kirkcudbright ; lat. 54 47 N.; Ion. 4 49 W. It is safe and commodious. BALSAS, or BALSAS, a river, Brazil, rising in the scrra Corvados, which separates Marnnham from Goyaz; flows, with many windings, N.E., and falls into the Parnaiba or Paranahiba, lat. 7 15 S.; Ion. 45 10 W., after a course of upwards of 200 m., for 80 of which it is navigable for canoes or the balsas, whence the river is named, and which are used by the Indians. BALCOMBE, par. Eng. Sussex; 6050 ac. Pop. 1542. BALDEGG, a vil. Switzerland, can. of, and 19 m. N. Luzern, on the lake of same name, which stands about 1400 ft. above the sea, is about 3 m. long, and 1 m. broad, and contains various kinds offish. Baldegg is famous for its old castle, which was once an important fastness. BALDERNOCK, par. Scot. Stirling; 4 in. long by 3 broad. Pop. 972. BALDERTON, par. Eng. Notts; 4050 ac. Pop. 899. BALI) HEAD, several promontories, capes, or head lands, in various parts of the world : 1, A cape, Australia, S.W. coast, forming the S.W. entrance into King George s Sound; lat, (S. point) 35 7 S.; Ion. 118 1 E. (R.) 2, A headland, U. States, Maine; lat. 43 13 N.; Ion. 70 34 30" W. (R.) 3, A headland, S.W. extremity of Smith s Island, off the coast of N. Carolina ; lat. 33 51 N. ; Ion. 78 W. (H.) BALDUNGAN, or B ALUOKQAS, par. Irel. Dublin ; 858 ac. Pop. 118. BALDOCK, par. and market tn. England, co. of, and 14 m. N.N.W. Hertford, in a valley near the source of the Rhea ; regularly built. Malting and brewing are carried on, and a considerable quantity of straw-plait is made. The old Roman road, Ickneild Street, passes along the N. side of the town ; and, in the vicinity, on the S. side, are vestiges of both Roman and Danish camps. Area of par. 200 ac. Pop. 1807. BALDON, two pars. Eng. Oxford:!, Baldon-Marsli, 570 ac. Pop. 360. 2, Baldon-Toot, 2010 ac. Pop. 269. BALDOYLE, vil. and par. Irel., co. of, and 6 m. N.E. Dublin. The neat and lively-looking village is resorted to in the summer months as a watering-place, and has little trade except fishing. Area of par. 1236 ac. Pop. 1100. BALDRASHANE, BALLYRASIIANE, SraoEHSTOWH, ST. JOHNSTOWN, par. Irel. Antrim and Londonderry; 6361 ac. Pop. 1658. BALE, or BAITIILET, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 710 ac. Pop. 229. BALEARIC ISLANDS, a group of islands in the Mediter ranean, off the coast of Spain, to which kingdom they belong, between lat. 38 40 and 40 5 N. ; Ion. 1 and 5 E. They consist of Majorca, Minorca, Ivica or Ivisa, Formentera, and Cabrera (which sec). Strabo ascribes their first colonization to the Phenicians. They afterwards fell successively into the hands of the Carthaginians and Romans, by whom they were almost depopulated. About 423 A.r>., they were seized on by the Vandals ; in 790, by the Moors; subsequently, they were alternately in the hands of the Moors and Christians, and, finally, were annexed to the crown of Aragon by James I., in 1229, since which time they have continued under Spanish domination. These islands are divided, ecclesiastically, into three bishoprics, namely, Majorca, Minorca, and Ivica or Ivisa. The language of the lower orders is a compound of Catalan, Greek, and Arabic, with a mixture of Syrian, Plien- ician, and Gothic. Pop. 253,000. (Madoz and Mellado.) BALFEIGHAN, par. Irel. Meath; 1617 ac. Pop. 152. BALFRON, a tn. and par. Scotland, Stirling. The town, pleasantly situated near the Enclrick, 15 m. N. Glasgow, is built of a reddish sandstone ; well supplied with water from springs; has two churches, an Established and a United Pres byterian, neither of them of much architectural pretension; and three schools. The inhabitants are nearly all employed in handloom-weaving, for the Glasgow manufacturers ; and in a cotton spinning factory, which employs about 100 workers. The parish is about 11 m. long by 3 broad. Pop. of tn. and par. 1970. BALFROOSH, or BALFURUSH [Ikirfurusli the mart of burdens], a commercial city, Persia, prov. Mazanderan, 98m. N.E. Teheran; lat. 36 33 15" N. ; Ion. 52 51 27" E. (L.) ; on the Bawool or Bahbul, here crossed by a stone bridge of eight arches ; about 12 m. from its port, Mushedisir, on the Caspian Sea. The town, which is open, and of considerable extent, is built in the midst of a forest ; streets straight, wide, BALGACII 305 BALKAN but mostly unpaved and dirty; houses chiefly of brick, and scattered over a vast extent of surface ; bazaars and caravan saries numerous. A good trade in silk and cotton is carried on ; and the iron found in the adjacent district of Amol is worked here. Chief imports: iron and naphtha. The in habitants are principally merchants and mechanics, and moolahs or learned men. Balfroosh is celebrated for its schools or colleges, about 30 in number. Pop. estimated at about 150,000; according to Eraser (in 1822), 200,000. (Eraser s Travels on the S. banks of tlie Caspian Sea; London Geog. Journal, vol. viii. p. 104.) BALGACH, a vil. and par. Switzerland, can. of, and 11 m. E. St. Gall ; contains both a Protestant and a R. catholic church, two Protestant schools, and one R. catholic, and a well- endowed infirmary, not only for this parish, but also those of Marpach and Rebstein. Balgach has also a chalybeate spring ; and in the neighbourhood, on a slope clad with vines, stands the fine modern castle of Grunenstein. Pop. 1395. BALHARUY. See BELLAKY. BALI, an isl. belonging to Holland, Indian Archipelago, between lat. 8 3 30" and 8 53 30" S., and Ion. 1 14 26 and 115 40 E.; bounded, N. by the sea of Java, and S. by the Indian Ocean. Separated W. from Java by the Strait of Bali, 1 m. wide, and E. from Lombok, by the strait of same name. Greatest length, 85 m. ; greatest breadth, 55 m. ; area, about 1700 geo. sq. in. Bali, in shape, bears some resemblance to a triangle, and has been divided into the following districts: Bleling, occupying the whole of the N. coast ; Djembrana on the W. ; Tabanan, Mengoel, Gianjar, and Klorigkong, on the S.; Karang Assam on the E. ; and Pajangang and Bangli in the centre. The surface is chiefly occupied by a series of volcanic mountains, of great height, stretching W. to E., and attaining their culminating point in Agoeng, a volcano of 11,326 ft., which, after long quiescence, became active in 1843. It lies in the continuous line of volcanic action, which stretches in an irregular curve from the Aleutian Isles, through Sambawa, Java, and Sumatra, to the Bay of Bengal. Bali, as might be anticipated from its locality, has had its full share of subterranean disturbance. In particular, in 1815 an earthquake took place, when a mountain near Bleling was broken into fragments, and suddenly disappeared ; while both a large lake from the interior, and the sea, burst in and inundated a space of about 6 m. in extent, drowning more than 1200 persons. The part of Bali not consisting of volcanic rocks, appears to be of a recent calcareous formation. This is par ticularly conspicuous in the S., where a plateau several hundred feet above the level of the sea, abuts on the coast, and forms the precipitous cliff of chalk well known to sailors under the name of Taffelhoek or Table-Point. Notwith standing the mountainous nature of the surface generally, Bali has several extensive and well-watered valleys, in which immense quantities of rice are grown. Coffee is cultivated on the higher grounds, but the quality is inferior. Cotton thrives well. The island is well wooded ; but the most im portant tree, in all respects, is the cocoa, which forms whole forests. The principal animals are cattle and buffaloes, of which some are exported. The horses are small and shabby, but are said to be of a much hardier nature than their ap pearance indicates. Swine, goats, and monkeys abound ; and in the N. and \V. of Bleling and Djembrana, tigers are not uncommon in the mountains. Immense flocks of wild fowl, particularly ducks, are seen in every quarter. The inhabit ants, whose origin is unknown, are a handsome race, much taller and better made than the Javanese. They are of a yellow copper colour, and have regular features. In many, the excessive use of opium and other vices have produced premature decay. Their submission to their princes or chiefs is unbounded, and no degree of ill usage from them provokes a murmur. In domestic life everything bespeaks the savage. The female is first carried off by violence, then becomes her husband s slave. The upper and lower part of the body is uncovered, and the only dress is a piece of cotton cloth, to which, on occasions of ceremony, such as a visit to the prince, a kind of mantle, called a sabak, is added. The villages usually consist of large squares, surrounded by mud walls, within which the cottages, also of mud, covered with reed, but without any window, are arranged. Employments of every kind are carried on in the open air; artizans sitting on a bench outside, with which every hut is provided. These VOL. I. villages have populations varying from 500 to 3000. The dwellings of the princes are of a much superior description, being generally built of well-cemented bricks, and surrounded with substantial walls, with gates. The prevailing religion is H indooism. Education, confined chiefly to reading and writing, is by no means general. Some of the Brahmins, however, cultivate science; and the princes, and other chiefs, have good schools for their children. The manufactures are very trifling. Every family has its loom, worked by the females, and employed in producing some ordinary cotton stuffs. Pottery is confined to the making of gods, and a few domestic implements. Both in the working of iron, particularly steel, and the making of trinkets from gold, considerable progress has been made. The chief articles made for consumption are salt from sea water, and black sugar from a kind of date. The commerce of Bali, with the neighbouring isles of the Archipelago, is considerable. The chief exports are rice, tobacco, and oil ; and the chief imports coarse British cottons, and opium. Pop. 700,000. BALI-BADONG, a petty state, S. angle, isl. Bali. It is wholly a plain, all cultivated, and yielding plentiful crops of rice, large quantities of which are annually destroyed by multitudes of rats, whose overpowering numbers the natives have not found means to withstand. The crops sometimes fail, and the inhabitants, 130,000 in number, are frequently subjected to all the horrors of famine. BALISAKEERY, BALLISAKEERY, or BALLYSAKEEKY, par. Irel. Mayo ; 12,692 ac. Pop. 6034. BALIZE. See BELIZE. BALK, a vil. Holland, prov. Friesland, 10 m. S.S.W. Sneek, in a bushy place near the Lake Slot (Slotermeer). It has a R. catholic, a Calvinistic, and a Baptist church, a school, and council-hall. Many French families came here after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, whose descendants may be traced in the names of many of the country people. Agri culture is the principal employment, but there is likewise a deal of trade done in wood, obtained from the neighbouring forests of Gaasterland. Pop. 1000. BALKAN [anc. Hcemus], an extensive range of moun tains, Europe, Oriental alpine system ; and, when understood in its largest sense, extending in an irregular curve from the Adriatic to the Black Sea, between lat. 42 and 44 N., and Ion. 16 and 28 E. More properly, however, the W. part of the range belongs to the Dinaric Alps, and the true Balkan or Haemus begins near the sources of the Lepentz, lat. 42 N., and Ion. 21 E., where the first great bifurcation of the range occurs, the one branch proceeding S. and forming the Pindus, while the other, or Balkan range, proceeds E., com mencing with the name of Tchar-dagh, and taking in succes sion the names of Ghoubotin-dagh, Mount Argentaro, Egrison- dagh, Ghiustendil-dagh, Codja Balkan, and Emineh-dagh or the Balkan of the Turks. This range, particularly towards the E., has been very imperfectly explored; and the heights assigned to its loftiest summits are only conjectural. The average height of the range does not exceed 5000 ft., and in the E., towards the Black Sea, is far lower than this ; but in more than one summit of the Tchar-dagh, the limit of per petual snow is understood to be attained, while on the tops of Dokimi and Peristera, near Mezzovo, the snow scarcely ever melts. Calculations, founded chiefly on this fact, give to Doubnitzka [anc. Scomius], a height of 8500 ft; to Mount Orbelus, near Sophia, 8000 ft. ; and to Mount Scardus, the culminating point of Tchar-dagh, and probably of the whole Balkan range, 9700 ft. The S. side of the Balkan consists of argillaceous schist, and is much more precipitous than the N. side, which is calcareous. The chain is broken across by numerous ravines of terrific appearance, so deep and narrow, that daylight is almost excluded. There are, however, several practicable passes, the best and most frequented of which, known by the name of Trajan s Gate, leads from Bazardjik, in the N. of Roumelia, to Sophia*, in the S.W. of Bulgaria. Numerous rivers take their rise in this range. Those on the N., the principal of which are the Bosna, Morava, and Iskar, belong to the basin of the Danube, with the exception of a few small streams, which proceed E., and pour their waters directly into the Black Sea. The chief rivers on the S. side are the Vardar, the Struma or Karasu, and the Maritza. These all fall into the Archipelago. The Balkan range is well wooded, and is understood to be rich in minerals. To the 39 13ALKII BALLINAKILL S. of Ghiustendil, in the district of Caratova, silver mines are known to exist, and rich beds of iron appear in almost every quarter; but the Turks neglect to turn them to account. (Orographif. de I Europe.) BALKH, a city, khanate of, and 260 m. S. Bokhara, cap. prov. of same name, on a fertile plain, 1800 ft. above the sea; on the Adirsiah or Balkh river, about 17 m. above its junc tion with the Amou ; lat. 36 45 N. ; Ion. 67 20 E. It was anciently named Bactra, and was long one of the most nourish ing cities of the East, and the emporium of the trade between India, China, and \V. Asia. On account of its antiquity, it is still called the Mother of Cities, and is said to have been built by Kyamoors, the founder of the Persian monarchy. The re mains of the ancient city extend over a circuit of about 20 m., and consist chiefly of fallen mosques, decayed tombs, and three colleges of handsome structure ; none of the ruins, how ever, being of an age prior to that of Mahometanism. The modern town, merely a large village, is surrounded by a mud wall, which excludes the ruins on every side for about 2 m. In the citadel or ark, on the N. side, a white marble stone is pointed out as the throne of Cyrus. The climate is not dis agreeable, but the water is bad ; soil, of a marshy nature, and in appearance not unlike pipe-clay, very fertile; crops good, the wheat grows as high as in England ; and the fruits, par ticularly apricots, are rich. The river Balkh, which has its source in the mountains of the Hindoo Koosh, gives its name to the city and province ; and water from it is distributed by aqueducts and canals, which, frequently overflowing, leave the ground marshy. Snow is brought from the mountains about 20 m. S., and sold in the streets. The travellers Moorcroft and Guthrie are buried outside the town. Pop. about 2000, chiefly Afghans, and a few Arabs. The PRO VINCE lies between lat. 35 20 and 37 20 N., and Ion. 63 and 69 E., extending about 250 m. E. to W., and 110 N. to S.; area, 30,100 sq. m.; bounded, N. by theOxus or Amou, E. by Budukshan, S. by the mountains of the Hindoo Koosh, and W. by the desert on the N. of Khorasan. The country slopes gently towards the Oxus, in which direction there are great facilities for irrigation ; and the soil is generally rich and productive, as is proved by the great population which it once maintained. In the S. and E. the country is mountain ous, but has some fertile valleys. This province formed, during several ages, a powerful and independent state. It is now subject to the Khan of Bokhara. Pop. estimated at r.bout 1.000,000. (Burnes s Bokhara; Jour. Roy. Geog. Soc., vol. iv.) BALL, or BALLAGH, a vil. and par. Irel. Mayo, E.S.E. Castlebar. Here are the remains of a round tower and an cient church; area of par. 5509 ac. Pop. 1934. BALLACHULISH, a ferry, Scotland, cos. Argyle and Inverness, across Loch Leven, an arm of Loch Linnhe, 10 m. S.S.E. Fort- William. Loch Leven lies nearly E. and W., and the ferry is about a quarter of a mile across. On both sides there is an inn, and on the N. side a few scattered crofters houses, part of the male inhabitants of which are employed at the well-known slate quarries on the S. side of the loch, about 2 m. E. the ferry, where a small village has risen, with an Established church, and an Episcopalian, and a R. catholic chapel. The excavations, each of which is called a quarry, are 60 to 70 in number, every one employing four hands. BALLAGHADIREEN, a tn. Irel. Mayo, 14 m. N.W. Tulsk ; has a mean and uninviting appearance ; and a barrack. Pop. 1342. BALLAGHMOON, par. Irel. Kildare ; 2178 ac. P. 308. BALLANE, or BULLANE, par. Irel. Galway; 1729 ac. Pop. 445. BALLANTRAE, a vil., harbour, and par. Scotland, co. Ayr. The VILLAGE, 59 m. S.W. Glasgow, r. bank, Stinchar, half a mile from its mouth in the frith of Clyde, has a neat church, regular steam communication with Glasgow several times a week, a valuable salmon-fishery employing about 1 6 boats, and is frequented during summer as bathing-quarters. The PARISH is about 10 m. sq. Pop. 1651 ; (vil.), 256. BALLAS, a tn. Upper Egypt, 1. bank, Nile, about lat. 26 N.; Ion. 32 42 E.; celebrated for its earthen jars, called, from the name of the town, Ballasee, which are used all over Egypt for carrying water. Large rafts made of ballasee jars are frequently floated down the Nile, to be disposed of in the markets of the metropolis. BALLATER, a vil. Scotland, co. of, and 36 m. W.S/W. Aberdeen, 1. bank, Dee, celebrated for its much-frequented chalybeate springs; houses well-built, streets regular; sur rounding scenery bold and picturesque. There is here a Free church. The wells are distant about 1J in. from the village, at a place called Pannanich, where there is a lodging house and baths of various kinds. Pop. 379. BALLAUGH, a par. and vil. Eng. Isle of Man, 7 m. S.W. Ramsey. Pop. 1516. BALLEE, or BALLY, par. Irel. Down; 6428 ac. P. 2255. BALLEEN, par. Irel. Kilkenny; 2559 ac. Pop. 837. BALLENSTADT, a tn. duchy of Anhalt-Bernburg, on the Getet, at the foot of the Lower Harz Mountains, 48 m. S.S.E. Brunswick. It has an hospital, manufactures of linen, and dyeworks. In the vicinity is a castle, the residence of the Duke, on a commanding situation, surrounded with fine gardens. Pop. 4000. BALLENY ISLES, a group of five volcanic islands, Antarctic Ocean, of which the central one is in lat. 66 44 S. ; Ion. 163 1 1 W. (R.) Two of the islands are small and low, the other three are of considerable size and elevation, the highest, Young Island, rises in a beautiful peak to a height of about 12,000 ft. They are covered with snow and ice, and are walled in with steep precipitous cliffs, without any appearance of inlet or harbour. In one of the islands there are two active volcanoes. BALL1BAY. See BALLYBAY. BALLIN A, a market tn. and river-port, Ireland, co. Mayo, on both banks of the Moy, the town itself being on the 1. bank, and the suburb Ardnaree, with which it is connected by two bridges, being on the r. bank, about 5 m. above its mouth in Killala Bay, where there is a bar with 3 to 5 ft. water at low tide. The general appearance of the town is rather pleasing ; one excellent street runs parallel to the river. Most of the other streets lie at right angles, and consist chiefly of poor cabins and cottages, intermingled with a few better buildings. The town contains an ancient parish church, a handsome It. catholic cliapel, and a courthouse. The retail and provision trade of Ballina is considerable ; it has also a little coasting and foreign trade. The number of vessels entered coastwise in 1847 was 103, tonn. 6151 ; cleared the same year, 29, tonn. 1978; foreign entered, 7, tonn. 957; cleared, 10, tonn. 1895. The river Moy is navigable for vessels of 200 tons to within 1 m. of the town, where there, is a good quay. The exports are chiefly corn, meal, provisions, hides, feathers, &c. The town is a great resort of anglers in the summer season, the fishing in the Moy being excellent. The Ballina Union contains an area of 149,320 ac., and a pop. of 51,980. The value of property rated in the Union, amounts to 43,228. The workhouse affords accommodation for 1554 inmates. Pop. (1841), 5313. BALLINABOY, par. Irel. Cork; 7973 ac. Pop. 2749. BALLINACARGY, a small post tn. Ireland, co. West- meath, 5 m. E. by S. Colehill, on the Royal Canal. It is a thriving and clean town, surrounded bv a fertile district. Pop. (1841), 483. BALLINACARRTG,par. Irel.Carlow;2605ac. Pop. 692. BALLINACLOUGH, two pars. Irel.: 1, par. Tip- perary; 3869 ac. Pop. 1152. 2, par. Limerick; 1092 ac. Pop. 630. BALLINACOR, par. Irel. Wicklow ; 17,449 ac. P. 1359. BALLINACOURTY, two pars. Irel.: 1, par. Galway; 6293 ac. Pop. 3407. 2, par. Kerry ; 5318 ac. Pop. 1472. BALLIN ADEE, par. Irel. Cork ; 8334 ac. Pop. 3038. BALLINADRIMNA,par.Irel.Kildare;4285ac.P.150]. BALLINAFAGH, par. Irel. Kildare ; 4155 ac. Pop. 929. BALLINAHAGL1SH, two pars. Irel.: 1, par. Mayo; 12,659ac. Pop. 5397. 2, par. Kerry ; 3006 ac. Pop.2147. BALLINAHINCH. 1, A vil. Ireland, co. Down, 8 m. E. Dromore; has a parish church, and two Presbyterian meeting-houses. In the neighbourhood is a much-frequented chalybeate spring. Pop. 911. 2, A barony on the coast of co. Galway, the S. part abounding in singularly wild, romantic, and magnificent scenery, but mostly uncultivated j it is the name, likewise, of a lake, rivulet, bay, and village, in the same barony. 3, A river, otherwise called Annacloy, co. Down. BALLINAKILL, a tn. and several pars. Ireland : 1, A market tn. Queen s co. 52 m. S.W. Dublin, in a fertile plain, BALLINAKILTY 307 BALLY on a tributary stream of the Nore. It contains a modern parish church, with a tall spire. Pop 1540. 2, par. King s co.; 6761 ac. Pop. 1079. 3, par. Waterford; 1877 ac. Pop. 639. 4, par. Galway and Eoscommon; 17,578 ac. Pop. 4998. 5, par. Galway ; 49,053 ac. Pop. 7928. 6, par. Gal- way; 5221 ac. Pop. 1762. 7, par. Sligo; 4590 ac. Pop. 1 906. BALLINAKILTY, par. Irel. Galway ; 522 1 ac. P. 1 762. BALLINAMARA, par Irel. Kilkenny; 3839 ac. P. 915. BALLINAMOND, par. Irel. Limerick; 1498 ac. P. 587. BALLINAMORE, a market tn. Ireland, co. Leitrhn, 12 m. N.W. Carrick- on -Shannon, well built, clean, and thriving ; has a church, a R. catholic chapel, some schools, a bridewell, and small session-house. The market is well at tended. Pop. 946. BALLINAMUCK, a vil. Ireland, co. of, and 11 J m. N.N.E. Longford. Bemarkable only as having been the scene of the capture of the remainder of the French army, under General Humbert, by Lord Cornwallis, Sept. 8, 1798. BALLINARD, par. Irel. Leinster; 1442 ac. Pop. 91K BALLINASCREEN, par. Irel. Londonderry; 32,492 ac. Pop. 8384. BALLINASLANEY, par. Irel. Wexford ; 2646 ac. Pop. 1061. BALLINASLOE, a market tn. Ireland, cos. Galway and Roscommon, on both sides the Suck, crossed here by bridges and causeways, about 6 m. above its junction with the Shan non, 15 m. S.W. Athlone. The town, chiefly the property of Lord Cloncarty, is neatly built, the streets wide and clean ; has a parish church, an elegant structure, with an octan gular spire; E. catholic and two Methodist chapels, infantry barracks, and lunatic asylum for the province of Connaught ; a prison, and union workhouse ; several public and private schools, and a horticultural and an agricultural society. The town contains three tanyards, four flour-mills, manufactories of hats and coaches, and an extensive establishment for curing bacon ; in the vicinity are good limestone quarries. It is the head quarters of the Galway constabulary police ; and petty sessions are held every Wednesday and Saturday in the court house. Branches of several banks have been established here. Near the E. end of the town are the remains of a castle, esteemed one of the strongholds of Connaught in the reign of Elizabeth. Ballinasloe communicates both with the river Shannon and with Dublin by canal, and is, consequently, a great thoroughfare both for goods and for passengers, par taking thus largely in the transit trade. It is, however, chiefly noted for its great wool-fair and cattle-market. At the for mer, held annually on July 13, the amount of wool sold has considerably decreased of late years. The cattle-fair, the largest and most important in Ireland, commences on the 5th and ends on the 9th of October. On an average, 12,000 head of black cattle, and 90,000 sheep, are annually brought to this fair. Pop. (1841), 4934. BALLINAULTIG, par. Irel. Cork; 4842 ac. Pop. 1404. BALLINCALLA, par. Irel. Mayo and Galway ; 15, 1 95 ar. Pop. 2165. BALLINCOLLIG, a vil. Irel. Cork, 5 m. W.S.W. Cork, on the river Bride, near its confluence with the sea ; a cheerful place, with a barracks, police station, and the ruins of an ancient castle. Along the river are several extensive powder- mills. Pop. 1287. BALLINCUSLANE,par. Irel. Kerry; 39,740ac. P.5701. BALLINDERRY, two pars. Irel.: 1, par. Antrim; 10,891 ac. Pop. 5679. 2, par. Tyrone r.nd Londonderry; 8178 ac. Pop. 3362. BALLINDOON,par. Irel. Galway; 20,033 ac. P. 5615. BALLINEEN, vil. Irel. Cork, 5 m. E. by N. Dunman- way, on the Bandon River. Pop. 670. BALLINGADDY, par. Irel. Limerick ;5999ac. P. 1761. BALLINGARRY, a tn. and four pars. Irel. : 1, Tn. and par. Limerick, 4 m. S.E. Rathkeale. The town is small, but tolerably clean, and has a church, R. catholic chapel, several schools, and a dispensary. Pop. 1690. Area of par. 17,732 ac. Pop. 8679. 2, par. Limerick ; 61 14 ac. Pop. 2834. 3, par. Tipperary; 6683 ac. Pop. 1962. 4, par. Tipperary; 13,714 ac. Pop. 7062. BALLIIS GHAM, par. Eng. Hereford ; 950 ac. Pop. 149. BALLINGLY, par. Irel. Wexford; 765 ac. Pop. 221. BALLINGRAY, or BALGKAV, par. Scot. Fife, 3J m. long by 1 broad. Pop. 436. BALLTNLANDERS, par. Irel. Limerick; 7717 ac. Pop. 4000. B ALL 1NLOGHY, par. Irel. Limerick; 2340ac. P.1153. BALLINOE, par. Irel. Cork; 7716 ac. Pop. 2566. BALLINROBE, a tn. and par. Ireland, co. Mayo. The town stands on a gentle acclivity on the Robe, about 2 m. from its embouchure in Lough Mask, and 25 m. N.N.W. Galway. It consists of two principal streets, and three or four smaller, all much improved of late ; houses of stone, but not particularly well built ; the court-house, however, is a good substantial structure. Water is obtained wholly from the river. In the town there are a parish church, and three chapels, one of which is R. catholic ; an excellent school- house, in connection with the Church Education Society, but at present (1850) disused for want of funds. Ballinrobe has no manufactures ; and its trade in corn, potatoes, and pigs, formerly considerable, has greatly fallen off, in consequence of the failure of the potato crops. But as the Robe is now in course of being rendered navigable, and a canal being cut between Lough Mask and Lough Corrib, thus opening up a water communication between Ballinrobe and Galway, it is expected that the trade of the place will rapidly improve. There is little agricultural employment here. Pop. of tn. about 3000, of which about 1000 are employed on the drain age-works. Area of par. (in cos. Mayo and Galway) 26,903 ac. Pop. 11,150. (Local Correspondent.} BALLINTEMPLE, four pars. Irel. : 1, par. Wicklow; 4087 ac. Pop. 1114. 2, par. Tipperary; 4208 ac. Pop. 656. 3, par. Cork; 2660 ac. Pop. 1742. 4, par. Cavan ; 10,658 ac. Pop. 5341. BALLINTOBBER, two pars. Irel.: 1, par. Roscommon; 6352 ac Pop. 2616. 2, par. Mayo; 22,966 ac. Pop. 7199. BALLINTOY,par.&vil. Irel. Antrim; 12,754ac. P.4816. BALLINURE, two pars. Irel.: 1, par. Wicklow; 7404 ac. Pop. 17 18. 2, par., with vil. of same name, form ing part of the tn. of Ballyclare, Antrim ; 8540 ac. Pop. 3549. BALLINVOHER, par. Irel. Kerry; 16,661 ac. P. 3579. BALLON, a small tn. France, dep. Sarthe, 15m. N. Le Mans, on a rising ground, 1. bank, Orne. It consists of a principal and several lateral streets, and has manufactures of coarse linens and serges. Its old castle, of which only one large tower and a few turrets now remain, was of some con sequence in the wars between the English and French in the early part of the 15th century. Pop. 1075. BALLON, par. Irel. Carlow ; 3700 ac. Pop. 1524. BALLY [a town], a prefix very common in Irish topo graphy. The following table comprises all the parishes in Ireland having this prefix, excepting such as are noticed in conjunction with towns or villages of the same name, of suffi cient importance to require a separate article, which will be found in their place elsewhere- PAR. County. Artn in acres. Pop. in 1841. r.Mt. County. _ Area Pop. in 1841 PAU. County. Area p i Si in BALLYADAMS .Queen s . 6,908.. 2,051 BALLYBROOD.. ....Limerick 2,355.. 1,121 BALLYCLUG .Antrim... 8269 4,307 BALLY AGHRAN... .Loudouderr -. 3,897.. 2,318 BALLYBUR ....Kilkenny 667.. . 200 BALLYCOMMON.. King s .. 6,641... 1,066 BAI.LYANE .Wexford.... . 4,578.. 1,293 BALLYBURLEY ....King s 7,868.. . 1.621 BALLYCONNICK.. .Wexford.... .. 1,611... 625 BALLYBACON .Tipperary... .11,120.. 3,109 BALLYCAHANE Limerick 2,411.. 1,196 BALLYCONRY .Kerry .. 1,206... 417 BAI.LYBEG. See BALLYBOGGAN... BUTTEVANT. .Meath . 6,222.. 1,43(1 BAI.LYCAHILL. BALLYCALLAN ::::BK:::: 3,844.. 6,835.. . 1,903 1,778 BALLYCOR BALLYCROGUE.... .Antrim .Carlow .. 7,330... .. 870... 2,611 64 BALLYBOGHII.f... .Dublin . 2,789.. 595 BALLYCANEW. ....Wexford 3,628.. 1,275 BALLYCULTEK ... .Down .. 6,177... 2,182 BALLYBOUGHT ... .Kildare . 1.44L. 265 BALI.YCARNEY. ....Wexford 8,234.. 2,045 BALLYCURRANY. .Cork .. 3,939... 1,160 BALLYBOY, fctn.. .King s .14,274.. 4,753 BALLYCASHIN. See KILRONAN BALLYDELOHER. .Cork .. 2,101... 1,183 BALLYBOYS .Louth . 1,436.. 748 BALLYCLERA- \ BAT.LYDF. LOUGH Y .Cork .. 2,000... 796 BALLYBRACKEN . .Kildare . 3,057.. 1,365 CHAN & tn f Tipperary 1,044.. 728 BALLYDUFF,&tn .Kerry .. 6,984... 488 BALLYBRAZIL.... .Wexford .... . 2,371.. 567 BALLYC LOG.... ....Tyrone 7,796.. 2,697 BALLYELLIN, &tr .Carlow . 4,957... 1.750 BALLYBREKNAN. .Wexford.... . 1,041.. 260 BALLYCLOGU,&.tn.Cbrk 9,711.. 3,971 BALLiFKARU .Cork . 3,462... 1,113 BALLYFERMOT 308 BALLYMONEY P tbuntv A * P P " P *- County. ,..,. , 8 ,,. PAR. County. to ^JJJ fc P | in PA.. County. ,_ P P, BALLYFERMOT DuWin 1,183... 346 BALLYUACWIL- ) v - , BALLYNAKILL Sliro 4,590... l,90fl BALLYFOYLE Cork 2,882... 1,811 LIAM J ^ * 4,J/0... J,193 BALI.YNAMONA Limerick 1,498... 5H? IULLYOAKTH Meath 7 r 9... 165 BALLYMADUN Dublin 3,438... 522 BALLYNASCRKKN ..Londonderry.32,492... 8,384 BALLYGIBBON Tipperary 3,294... 1,321 BALIYGRIFFIN Tipperarv 2,862... 1,406 BALLYMAGI.ASSAN Meath 3,476... 667 BALLYNASLANKY.. Wexford 2,646... 1,061 BALLYNOE, & tn ...Cork 7,716... 2,566 BALLYGUKNER Waterford 2,266... 807 BAI.LYMAKENNY...LoUth 1,581... 499 BALLYNUKK, & tn.. Wicklow 7,404... 1,718 BALLYGURRIM Kilkenny 1,924... 796 BAI.LYMANY Kildare 507... 193 Antrim .V 8, o41." 3^469 BALLYHALBEBT, ) p. 4n]Q ...., BAI.LYMARTIN Antrim 2,806... 870 BALLYOUTER.\cn..Cork 4,532... 1,728 9rt n r Down 4,U1#... 2,666 BALLYMARTLE Cork 5,503... 1.761 BALLYOVEY Mayo 27,622... 4,505 BALLYHEAN Mayo 7,675... 4,032 BALI.YMITTY Wexford L365... 393 BALLYPHILIP Down 2,430... 3,086 D . . - ( Antrim &.Lon- BALLYHKIGF..&. tn. Kerry 11,261... 4,795 BALLYMODAN Cork 8,080... 9,298 BALLYRASHANE. j dondurry 636 , 2 658 I!ALLYHOGE Wexford 4,270... 997 BALLYMONKY Cork 7,308... 3,733 BALLYRJAN Queen s 9,682... 3,689 BALLYHOOLY Cork 5,253... 2,337 BALLYHU S K\RD Wexford 7 048 2874 BALLYMORK Wexlbrd 2,525... 568 & tn Westnieath ll 46fi 3487 BALLYROBKRT Antrim 884... 291 BALLYKEAN "*Khu s......!..12 914!" 2/445 "Armagh !.14J59 ."ll 505 BALLYSAX Kildare 7,208.. 1,220 BALLYK.INK Wicklow 11,054... 2,755 BALLYMORTN Wertmeath... 2,205... 700 BALLYSCAD DAN... Tipperary 944... 749 BALLYKINLER Down 2,039... 793 BALLYMUHKEKN... Tipperary 3,8-46... 1,203 BALLYMYBE Armagh 7,381... 3,071 BALLYSCULLION { A o t ^ y L ; l , i750 69?9 g^ t n>> r Limerick 7,717... 4,000 BALLYNACLOGH. ..Limerick 1,092... 630 BALLYSCULLION ) , . . BALLYLANEEN Waterford 6,315... 5,153 ...Tipperary 3,870... 1,152 GRANGE \ Antrim 4,279... 3,183 BALLYLANMAN Wexford 2,493... 710 BALLYNACOURTY ..Kerry...! 6,318.. 1,472 BALLISEEIIY Kerry 3,489... 1,472 BALLYLARKI is- Kilkenny 1,394... 264 ...Galway 6,293... 3,407 BALLYSKANNON ..Kildare 2,815... 494 BALLYLINWY Antrim s ,364." 2,204 BALLYNAFAGH Kililare 4^155... 929 BALLYSHEEHAN ...Tipperary 9,216... 3,068 BALLYsm.LANE...Cork 2,088... 603 BALi.YLOUGiiLOE..Westmeath... 13,578... 4,793 BALLYNAHAGLISII. Kerry 3,006... 2,147 BALLTfSUMAGHAN.SligO 4,217... 1,902 BALLYMACART Waterford 2,538 ... 1,196 Mayo 12,659... 6,397 BALLYTAIISNKY.... Kilkenny 8 J6... 258 .....Down 576... 6,697 BALLYMACELLI- ) K itms AOIS Waterford 1/77... 639 BALLYTOBIN Kilkenny 2,394... 714 BALLYTRUSTAN....DOWH 1,081... 75t > Kerry 14,018... 4,0oo Galway 49,05:!... 7,928 BALLYVALDON Wexford 3,911... 1,550 BALLYMACHUGH .Cavan 7,729... 3,518 j Galway and BALLYVALLOO Wexford 1,891... 822 BALLYMACKEY Tipperary 9.713... 3,178 \ B.08comnum 61,614... 4,998 BALLYVOURNF.Y ...Cork 26,603 .. 4.466 BALLYMACOHMicKLongford 8,925... 3,926 Galway 5,221... 1,762 BALLYWALTKR Down 3,379... 1,916 BALLYMACWARD...Galway 17,258... 6,027 Galway 59,607. ..14,373 BALLYWILLIN Antrim 4,673... 2,202 BALLYAGHRON. See AGHERTOX. place, with a handsome market-house, and some considerable BALLYBAY, a market tn. and par. Ireland, Monaghan. The tn. is 55 m. N.W. Dublin; has a thriving appearance; corn-mills. Pop. 704. BALLYJAMESDUFF, a market tn. Ireland, co. Cavan, numerous new and good houses having been recently erected ; 5 m. N.W. Virginia; has a church, R. catholic chapel, places possesses a neat church, and two chapels for Presbyterians, of worship for Presbyterians and Wesleyans, several schools, Wesleyans, and R. catholics; several schools, a public library, and a dispensary. Fairs are held in May, July, October, and and dispensary; considerable manufactu re of linen fabrics, December. Pop. 1 071. and in the vicinity are some bleachgreens. There has been BALLYLONGFORD, a tn. and harbour, Ireland, co. a great increase in the trade and population of the place within Kerry, at the head of a creek, S. side of the Shannon, 37 m. the last few years. Cattle-fairs are held in January, April, W. by S. Limerick The harbour has 16 ft. water at high July, and October. Area of par. 8741 ac. Pop. (1841), tides, and is capable of being much improved. Large quan 6606; oftn. 1768. tities of corn and turf are conveyed hence by lighters to BALLYBOFEY, a tn. Ireland, Donegal, on the Fin, Limerick. Pop. 1143. 14 m. W.S.W. Lifford ; has a union workhouse, and a pretty BALLYMAHON, a market tn. Ireland, co. Longford, 10 extensive retail trade with the surround ing districts. Pop. m. N.W. by N. At ^ilone, on a declivity near the Inny, here 782. crossed by a fine bridge of five arches ; consists chiefly of one BALLYCASTLE, a small senport tn. Ireland, co. An- long and spacious street ; has a church, a handsome R. catholic trim, beautifully situated in a valley, head of bay of same chapel, market-house, dispensary, two distilleries, some malt- name, W. of Fair Head, 43 m. W. by N. Belfast; Iat. 55 12 houses, and manuf actures of linen, frieze, linsey-woolsey, N. ; Ion. 6 5 W. It consists of one principal and several leather shoes, nails, &c. Several well-attended fairs are held smaller streets; houses well built, chiefl) r of sandstone ; sup- during the year, th at in May being reckoned the best cattle ply of water ample. It has two established churches, one of fair in the central counties, except Ballinasloe. Pop. 1229. them having a handsome spire ; a Presbyterian meeting-house, BALLYMENA, or BALLYMENAGII, a market tn. Ireland, R. catholic chapel, and an infant school. In the vicinity are co. Antrim, 22 m. I >f.W. by N. Belfast, on a gentle acclivity. coal mines and iron smelting-works. Pop. 1697. (Local It consists of 15 streets, mostly straight and well kept; the Correspondent.} BALLYCASTLE is also the name of a small houses, in general, substantial, but old-fashioned, with their maritime tn. Mayo. Pop. 798. gables to the street amply supplied with both river and well BALLYCLARE, a small market t n. Ireland, Antrim, water, and lighted w ith gas. Contains an elegant townhouse, 2 J m. S.W. Ballinure, on the highroad from Antrim to Larne. an Episcopal church, four Presbyterian meeting-houses, one It has a church, R. catholic chapel, and Presbyterian and Wesleyan, one Methodist, and a R. catholic chapel. Schools, Methodist meeting-houses. Linen is manufactured here. unusually numeroi s for a place of this size ; they are General fairs are held in May, July, August, and November. the district school for the diocese of Down and Connor, Pop. (1841), 847. district national m odel school, two classical and mercantile BALLYCOTTON BAY, Ireland, co. Cork, 12 m. N.E. schools, Guy s free national school, national female and from the entrance into Cork harbour ; bottom smooth and industrial school, two boarding-schools for young ladies, a even, of fine sand and clay, perfectly clean, and the holding- parochial school, a Methodist chapel school, and several others ground good ; Iat. 51 50 N ; Ion. 7 5c > W. of less note. The principal trade of the town is in brown BALLYFERRIS POINT, a headland, Ireland, E. coast, linens, and linen yarns ; the manufacture of which is carried on co. Down ; Iat. 54 39 N. ; Ion. 5 34 W. A dangerous reef to a great extent. There is also a brewery. In the vicinity stretches from Uiis point into the sea ; a nd a little S. from it are a flax spinning -mill, and 16 bleachfields. Three weekly there is another still more formidable, called Scalmartin. markets are held two for country produce, and one for linen BALLYGAVVLEY, a market tn. Ireland, co. Tyrone, 3 cloth, cattle, horses , &c. Pop. (1841), 5152. (Local Corre- m. N.N.W. Aughnacloy ; tolerably well built ; has a clean and spondent.} thriving appearance ; and a neat moderi i church, R. catholic BALLYMON 2Y, a tn. and par. Ireland, co. Antrim. and Presbyterian chapels, some schools, a dispensary, brewery, The town is 38 m. N. by W. Belfast, on an acclivity with a and an extensive distillery. Manufacture s : linen and gloves, S. inclination ; coi sists of four main streets at right angles, to a considerable extent. Fairs are he d here in J une, Sep- and four smaller ; houses generally well built, some of stone tember, and November. Pop. 881. and others of brick ; well supplied with both spring and river BALLYHAISE, a market tn. Ire and, co. of, and 3 m. water, and lighted with gas. It has a court-house, lately N.N.E. Cavan, on the Aunalee. It is a clean and improving erected ; bridewell , and union workhouse ; one Established, BALLYMORE 309 BALTIC SEA and four Presbyterian churches ; one Unitarian Remonstrant, and one R. catholic chapel ; a national, and three private schools. Manufactures : linen, tanning, brewing, and che mical stuffs. The trade in linen and flax is considerable ; there being a market for these articles on the first Thursday of every month, and alternate markets, fortnightly, for pork, b ltter, and grain. Area of par. 21,923 ac.; pop. 11,727. Pop. of tn. 2490. -(Local Correspondent.) BALLYMORE, a tn. and par. Ireland, co. Kildare, 3 J m. S.W. Blessington, on the Lifl ey, here crossed by a handsome bridge, near the celebrated waterfall Poul-a-Phooka. It con tains a church, R. catholic chapel, the ruins of an ancient and once strong castle, and several schools. Area of par. 4203 ac. Pop. 2129. BALLYMOTE, a small tn. Ireland, co. Sligo, 12 m. N.W. Boyle, near the river Owenmore. It has a church, R. catholic chapel, several schools, bridewell, dispensary, and, in the vicinity, the ruins of an extensive castle and small abbey. Linen is manufactured to some extent ; and several fairs for cattle and general merchandise are held. Pop. 839. BALLYNAK1L. See AQHIART. BALLYQUINTIN POINT, a well-known cape, Ire land, co. Down, forming the N.E. entrance into Loch Strang- ford ; lat. 54 20 N. ; Ion. 5 25 W. BALLYRAGGET, a tn. and par. Ireland, co. Kilkenny, 1. bank, Nore, 10 m. N.N.W. Kilkenny; has a barrack, but nothing else deserving of notice. Pop. 1577. Area of par., 5270 ac.; pop. 2694. BALLYSADARE, a small tn. and par. Ireland, co. Sligo. The town is situated 4 m. S.W. Sligo, at the head of Ardinglass Bay, near the cataracts of the Owenbeg and Arrow ; the waters of which propel several extensive corn-mills. It has a church, two R. catholic chapels, and some storehouses ; area of par. 16,025 ac.; pop. 7822. Pop. of tn. 869. BALLYSHANNON, a tn. and seaport, Ireland, co. of, and 11 m. S.S.W. Donegal; lat. 54 30 12" N.; Ion. 8 11 42" W. (R.) on the Erne, about 1 m. from the S.E. shore of Donegal Bay. The river flows through the town from E. to W., and divides it into two parts, connected by a bridge of 14 arches. The larger portion is on an acclivity, the other, partly on low, level ground, and partly on a rock of consider able elevation. The town comprises eight streets, most of them straight, and all tolerably well kept ; houses generally well built, some of brick, but many of stone, and slated ; supply of both river and spring water ample. On a com manding eminence in the N. part of the town, stands the Episcopalian church, a handsome structure in the Elizabethan style. The other places of worship are two R. catholic, a Presbyterian, and two Methodist chapels. There are in the town a classical school, an infant and four other schools, and a destitute sick society. Distillation, leather-dressing, and salt, tobacco and rope manufacturing are carried on, but to a very small extent. The trade of the port is very inconsider able, its imports being confined to some building materials ; it had formerly a considerable export trade in corn, but this has entirely ceased since 1846. The harbour is fit for small vessels only, having, at low water, not more than 3 ft. on the bar. The population is chiefly employed in agricultural labour, but a considerable portion, also, in salmon-fishing during the season, and in the salt works. Pop. (1841), 4307. (Local Correspondent.) BALMACLELLAN, par. Scot. Kirkcudbright, 12 m. long by 5 to 8 broad. Pop. 1134. BALMAG1IIE, par. Scot. Kirkcudbright, 9 m. long by 7 broad. On an island formed by the Dee, in this parish, are the ruins of the ancient castle of Threaves, formerly a strong hold of the redoubted Douglases. Pop. 1252. BALME, a vil. France, dep. Isere, about 20 m. from Tour du-Pin, remarkable for an extensive stalactitie grotto, with a lake in it, regarded as one of the wonders of Dauphine". P. 850. BALME (COL DE), a celebrated pass, Pennine Alps, Savoy, on the frontiers of can. Valais, leading from the valley of Trient into that of Chamouni. Its highest point is 72 1 8 ft. above the level of the sea. It forms the boundary between Savoy and Valais, and presents many magnificent views of wild and picturesque scenery. BALMERINO, par. Scot. Fife, about 3 m. long, and 2J broad, contains the ruins of Balmerino Abbey, founded by Alexander II., in 1229.. Pop. 993. BALMORAL. See ABERDEEN (COUNTY). BALONNE, a river, N. Australia ; the upper part of the stream is inferior only to the Murray, in breadth and depth. The banks are thickly peopled by natives. It was discovered by Sir T. L. Mitchell, who fell in with it in lat. 28 35 38" S., and Ion. 148 25 E. BALOOCHISTAN. See BELOOCHISTAN. BALOU, a vil., W. Africa, Galam country, 1. bank, Senegal; lat. 14 44 N.; Ion. 12 16 W.; built on a rocky site, and having several islets in the river opposite to it, which obstruct its navigation. BALQUHIDDER, par. Scot. co. Perth, about 18 m. long, and from 6 to 7 broad. It abounds in romantic scenery, and contains some of the highest mountains in Scotland, one of which, Benmore, is nearly 4000 ft. above the sea. In the caverns of another of its rocky and romantic heights, called /raigruigh [the King s rock], King Robert Bruce concealed limself for some time, after his defeat at Dairy. Pop. 871. BALRAHAN, or BALKAIN, par. Irel. Kildare; 3374 ac. Pop. 485. BALROTHERY, par. Irel. Dublin; 6885 ac. Pop. 4881. BALSAMO, a com. and vil. Austrian Italy, gov. and prov. of, and 7 m. N. Milan, comprising a church, and public square ; in the vicinity are several palaces and country-seats, h-am, fruits, and vegetables are grown, and excellent wines produced. Pop. 4935. BALSCADDAN, par. Irel. Dublin; 3948 ac. Pop. 1074. BALSHAM, par. Eng. Cambridge; 4402 ac. Pop. 1271. BALSOON, par. Irel. Meath; 1269 ac. Pop. 340. BALTA [formerly, Jozefogrod], a tn. Russia, gov. Po dolsk, cap. dist. of same name ; on the Kodyma, 1 15 m. N.N.W. Odessa. It is well built, contains several Greek churches, and has some general trade. Its suburb, on the S. side of the river, a tributary of the Bug, was once in the Turkish territory, but is now in the Russian government of Kherson ; most of the town, or N. portion of the place, was once m the Poland of earlier times. Pop. 7500. BALTA, a small isl. and harbour, Scotland, co. Orkney and Shetland. The ISLAND is 40 m. N. Lerwick, lat. 60 44 24" N.jlon. 047 42"W. (R.) It is worthy of notice only for hav- ng been the locality chosen, in 1817, for the trigonometrical survey of Great Britain, for determining, in this high latitude, the variation in the length of the seconds pendulum. The HARBOUR is on the E. coast of the island of Unst., the most N. of the Shetland group ; lat. 60 45 N. ; Ion. 47 W. It is safe and commodious, of easy access, and completely pro tected by the small island of Balta, which lies at the mouth of it. BALTANAS, or VALTANAS, a tn. Spain, Leon, prov. of, and 14 m. W. by N. Valencia, at the head of an extensive valley; has regularly-built but badly-paved streets, a large square, two churches, a townhall, poors -hospital, unwhole some and insecure prison, endowed school, public storehouse, ducal palace of the Abrante family, and several baths and fountains. Pop. chiefly agricultural, 2575. BALTEAGH, or BALLYDAIGH, par. Irel. Londonderry; 1 1,506 ac. Pop. 3371. BALTIC (THE), or BALTIC SEA [Latin, Mare Balticum; German, Ost See], an internal sea in the centre of N. Europe, between lat. 53 30 and 65 40 N., and Ion. 10 and 30 E., enclosed by the shores of Denmark, Sweden, Russia, Prussia, and Mecklenberg, and communicating with the Kattegat by three passages the Sound, the Great Belt, and the Little Belt. Its greatest length from N.N.E. to S.S.W., is nearly 900 m. Its breadth is very irregular, and varies from 40 to 200 m. Its area, including the three gulfs of Bothnia, Fin land, and Riga, has been estimated at 160,000 sq. m., and its basin, which receives the drainage of more than a fifth of the surface of Europe, is at least, 900,000 sq. m. Its largest volumes of water are derived from the S., where it receives the Oder and the Vistula ; and the E., where it receives the Niemen, the Diina, and the Neva ; but these supplies are probably exceeded in accumulated amount by the almost innumerable torrents which flow down from the N. and N.W., and are fed by the vast reservoirs of the Norwegian moun tains. The shores of the Baltic, proceeding from the Little Belt in the W., and along the S. and E., as far as Dome s Point, at the entrance to the Gulf of Riga, are flat and sandy ; and even towards the N., where the coast assumes a rocky BALTIMORE 310 BALTIMORE character, the beach seldom attains a height of 50 ft. The sea itself seems to partake of the character of its shore. It shelves very gradually, presenting scarcely any harbours which vessels of above 300 tons can enter. Its depth nowhere exceeds 167 fathoms; and, in general, is not more than 40 or 50. Owing to the general flatness of the coast, the Baltic is much more exposed than inland seas usually are to distant influences. The warm moisture accumulated over the Atlantic, and wafted along by the prevailing west wind, meets with no interruption till it arrives at the Baltic, when it encounters the keen blasts of the Ural Mountains, and of the steppes extending to the N. of the Caspian Sea, and is precipitated in heavy falls of rain or snow, which materially affect the com position of the water of the Baltic, and reduce the quantity of salt contained in it to little more than a half of that contained in the water of the N. Sea. According to experiments apparently performed with the greatest accuracy ; of 3 Ibs. of water taken from each, that of the N. Sea yielded 747, that of the Baltic, only 389 grains of salt. This comparative freshness of the water of the Baltic, and shallowness of its bed, disposes it to freeze easily ; and hence, though it rarely happens that exten sive portions of it are entirely frozen over, its shores usually begin to be covered with ice before the end of December, and the navigation of its harbours thereafter, continues interrupted till the beginning of April. The shallowness of the water along the shores of the Baltic is obvious, owing, in a great degree, to the immense quantities of mud and sand deposited by rivers and torrents, the number of which has been estimated at 250 ; but it was early suspected that other causes were in operation, and the Swedish naturalist Celsius, followed by the more celebrated Linnaeus, maintained, that the water in the Baltic was gradually subsiding, at the rate of about 3 ft. in a century. A more philosophical opinion, now more generally adopted, is, that the bed and the surrounding shores, are gradually rising. Scientific measures have been adopted, for the purpose of determining the point ; but, until the result is known, it is still a question whether the amount of alluvial deposit is not of itself sufficient to account for the phenomenon. The Baltic has no proper tides. Its surface is of too limited extent to feel the solar and lunar influence directly ; and the passages which connect it with the ocean are too narrow to communicate the changes of level, which the tides produce on the ocean surface. There is, however, a slight irregular change of level in the Baltic, of which no very satisfactory account has yet been given. The fishing of the Baltic is not of much importance. The herring, which used to visit it in shoals in the 14th and 15th centuries, is now only met with in individual specimens ; but, along the Swedish coast, espe cially in the Gulf of Bothnia, a fish called straemling, and very much resembling the herring, though smaller, is caught in great numbers ; and, besides, a large home consumption, is extensively exported. The other fish which abound most are, the salmon, sturgeon, tur- bot, and flounder. Near the islands of Gothland and Aland, a considerable number of seals are killed. One of the most celebrated productions of the Baltic is amber. It is often thrown on the S. coast after N.W. and W. winds, and is also dug up in a few places, about 200 ft. inland from the beach. BALTIMORE, a small tn.orvil.and seaport, Ireland, co. Cork, S. coast ; lat. 51 29 N.; Ion. 9 22 W. (R.) ; 53 m. W.S.W. the city of Cork, on the E. shore of the harbour of same name. It contains a handsome church with a lofty square tower, a school-house, and dispensary. On the summit of a rock, rising over the pier, stands the picturesque ruins of the ancient castle of Baltimore. The harbour, which lies about 4 m. N.E. of Cape Clear light, is very convenient for ships bound either E. or W. The entrance, in which there are from 12 to 14 fathoms, lies between Baltimore Point, on the E. side, and Sherkin Island or Fort Point, on the W. Small vessels may ride, two or three cables length to the N.N.W. of Baltimore town, in 10 or 11 ft. at low water, quite sheltered from all winds. The number of vessels registered at the port in 1847, was 120; tonn. 3926. Entered in the same year, 357; tonn. 16,803. Cleared, 153; tonn. 9466. The principal exports are slate, copper ore, and agricultural produce ; imports timber, iron, coal, salt, and general mer chandise. There was a considerable fishery here some years since, but it is now much fallen off. .In the beginning of the 17th century, Baltimore was plundered by the Algerines, who carried away 200 prisoners to Algiers, most of whom were English settlers. The population of the town, together with its prosperity, is rapidly declining. Pop. (1831), 459; (1841), 168. BALTIMORE, a city and port of entry, U. States, Mary land, cap. co. of same name, N. side of the Patapscc*, 14 m. above its embouchure in Chesapeake Bay, 42 m. N.E. Wash ington; lat. (Battle Monument. 39 17 24" N.; Ion. 76 37 30" BALTIMORE. After L Lclireton W. (R.) It is the third city of the U. States in population, and the fifth in extent of commerce; pleasantly situated on a bay, on slightly undulating ground. The streets are spa- BALTINGLASS 311 BAMBARRA cious, regularly laid out, generally at right angles, with a few, here and there, running diagonally : rendering the ground-plan not quite so like the squares of a draught-board as that of many other towns in the U. States ; they are well paved, the side walks being laid with red bricks, placed diagonally. The houses are, for the most part, built of red brick, with marble or granite basements, and have a neat and substantial appear ance. A small river, called Jones s Falls, over which there are three handsome stone bridges, and four of wood, intersects the town. The principal public buildings are the city hall, a plain building, three stories high ; the court-house, two stories high ; the state penitentiary, the various buildings of which, with gardens and walks, occupies four acres of ground ; the county prison, a neat structure, with embattled towers ; and the house of refuge. There are, besides, two handsome monu ments, the Washington Monument and the Battle Monument ; the former 163 ft. high, surmounted by a statue of Washing ton ; the latter, which was erected in commemoration of the successful defence of the city against an attack of the British, in September 1814, is 52 ft. high, with a statue on the top, emblematical of the city of Baltimore ; the names of those who fell in the battle are inscribed on the column in letters of gold. The city is well supplied with water, both by pipes and public fountains ; there being several of the latter in vari ous parts of the city, tastefully enclosed by circular railings, and covered by small open temples composed of a dome sup ported by columns. Besides the public buildings and other objects already enumerated, Baltimore contains two museums, two theatres, a custom-house, an hospital, in which there is nn excellent collection of anatomical preparations in wax ; and several other benevolent institutions ; an exchange, five market-houses, 14 banks, 104 places of public worship, of which the Episcopalians have twelve, R. Catholics eleven (including a handsome cathedral), Presbyterians eleven, Lu theran eight, Baptists five, Methodists 43 ; a public library, a lunatic asylum, an observatory, four universities and col leges, with 395 students; 50 schools, with 173 teachers, and 9081 scholars, of whom 3783 in primary schools. The har bour is excellent, and of ensy access, though sometimes ob structed by ice. It consists of three divisions the first 600 yards wide, with 22 ft. water; the second 12 ft. deep at the entrance, increasing at the upper end to 15 ft. ; the third or inner harbour, which penetrates to the centre of the city, has a depth of 10 ft., and admits vessels of 200 tons; those drawing more lie at wharfs near Fell s Point, a little way further down. The commerce of Baltimore is extensive, including most of the trade of Maryland, and a portion of that of the W. states. It is the greatest tobacco and flour market in the U. States ; there being upwards of 60 flour-mills in its imme diate neighbourhood, each capable of producing 32,000 barrels in a year. Cotton, coal, lumber, coffee, hides, guano, grain, &c., are included in its trade ; the department of provisions alone being estimate at 1,600,000 annually. The total imports in 1851 amounted to 1,448,792, and the exports to 1,253,233. In 1852 the total number of vessels that entered the harbour, exclusive of bay craft, was 1889; and the same year there cleared for foreign ports 583 vessels, tonnage 147,570, being a considerable increase since 1846, when the total vessels en tered were 476, tonnage 106,149, and cleared 541, tonnage 123,821. There are also a number of establishments for the manufacture of cloth, cotton, paper, powder, iron, copper, glass, steam-engines, &c. In a large locomotive establish ment here, 100 engines are manufactured annually. Its sup ply of periodical literature is also ample ; consisting of nume rous daily, weekly,andsemi-weekly newspapers, and magazi: or journals. By means of the extensive railway system of the U. States, Baltimore has easy communication with the most important places in the Union. Pop. (1850), 109,054. BALTINGLASS, a market tn. and par. Ireland, co. Wicklow. The town is 28 m. S.S.W. Dublin; pleasantly situated in a vale on both banks of the Slaney, which is here crossed by a stone bridge of three arches. It consists of four principal streets and several smaller, and contains some good houses, but is generally ill built and straggling. There are here the ruins of an ancient abbey, called Baltinglass Abbey, founded between 1148 and 1151, for Cistertian friars. In the vicinity are several calico printing-works, bleachgreens, and a flour-mill. A savings -bank was established here iu 1823. Area of par. 6383 ac.; pop. 4436. Pop. of tn. 1928. BALTONSBOROUGH, or BALTONSDUKY, par. Eng. Somerset; 2700 ac. Pop. 718. BALU ISLAND, an isl. Indian Ocean, Gulf of Martaban, at the embouchure of the Sulween or Thanluyn river, which separates Burmah from Siam. It is 17 m. long, and 8 broad, extending from lat. 16 14 to 16 31 N. It is moderately elevated, and said to be very fertile. BALVASH, or POOLVASU BAY, Isle of Man, S. end of the island; lat. 54 7 N.; Ion. 4 45 W. The bay is spa cious, and affords good anchorage and shelter. BAMBA, prov., W. Africa, kingdom, Congo; bounded, N. by the Coanza, S. by the Loz, and W. by the Atlantic ; lat. 6 12 S.; Ion. 14 30 E. It is one of the largest and richest districts in Congo, possessing mines of salt, silver, copper, lead, and iron, and a fishery of cowries. The cap. of the prov. bears the same name, and is about 90 m. S. St. Salvador. BAMBARRA, an extensive country in the interior of W. Africa, but whose boundaries have not been exactly ascer tained. Its lat. is given by Rennell, 1 2 to 15 22 N.; Ion. 15 E. to 5 20 W. The greater part of the country is level, or slightly undulated, and is traversed by several rivers of considerable size, including the Joliba or Niger, which flows through its entire length, from S.W. to N.E. The W., and lesser por tion of it, is hilly, but the general aspect of the country is beautiful, resembling, it has been said, the central districts of England. The climate, in the N. parts, is intensely hot, though hardly so oppressive as in some of the adjoining countries. In the S. parts it is more temperate. The rainy season com mences in June, and terminates in November, its termina tion being generally followed by a dry N.E. wind, which is reckoned healthful by Europeans, from absorbing the super abundant moisture. Vegetation is various and luxuriant. Rice, maize, millet, yams, cotton, water-melons, French beans and onions, are raised in great abundance ; and, in the rainy season, cabbages, carrots, and turnips. Considerable quanti ties of tobacco, also, are grown in some districts, and in some the indigo plant grows spontaneously. Fruit-trees, however, are scarce, the most numerous being the pistachio, and the shea or butter-tree, the kernel of whose fruit yields a grayish butter, that will keep sweet for twelvemonths without salt a great advantage in a country where the latter is extremely scarce, and consequently dear. The huge baobab, with several other trees, common to other parts of Africa, abound here. The pastures are extensive and rich, maintaining numbers of horned cattle, sheep, goats, and horses, the latter of a superior breed. The wild animals, with the exception of monkeys, are those of tropical Africa, lions, tigers, wolves, panthers, elephants, c. Birds, of a variety of species, are numerous, especially in the marshes, which are resorted to by pelicans, egrets, puffins, ducks, teals, and other aquatic fowls. The rivers abound with fish, which form the principal sub sidence of the natives living on the banks of the Joliba, and other streams. Alligators, too, are numerous, but not, gene rally, of a very dangerous kind. Venomous reptiles, how ever, swarm, and are held in much dread by the natives. Of the mineral wealth of the country little is known, but the mountains are said to be rich in gold. The aborigines of Bambarra are of the Mandingo family, their language, habits, and appearance being precisely the same. They are repre sented as a kind and humane people, inferior to some of the other negro races in refinement and ingenuity, but greatly superior to them in the kindlier feelings and sympathies of humanity. The men manufacture articles in gold and iron, and tan and dress leather, and make gunpowder ; the women spin, weave, and dye a soft coarse cloth, much prized for its durability, and beautiful blue colour. In these commodities, to which may be added ivory, they carry on a pretty extensive trade with various more remote kingdoms, importing, in re turn, salt and European merchandise. The country, generally, is but thinly peopled, the bulk of the population congregating in towns and villages. Some of the towns are thus very crowded, containing, many of them, not fewer than 30,000 inhabitants. Though having a king, the country is in reality governed by a number of petty independent chiefs, who often go to war with one another. The Bambarras are superior to their neighbours in the art of war, and their assistance is often invoked, to turn the scale in the frequent wars that are waged around. Such assistance is usually granted, on condition of BAMBEKG 312 BAMBOUK tribute being paid them, and they are said to be, in general, tory, and a cabinet of natural and experimental philosophy faithful to treaties. The religion of the natives consists sim- There are also surgical, anatomical, and other medical schools, ply in the acknowledgment of a Supreme Being, and a future attached to the general infirmary, founded (1789) by Bishop state ; a few arc Mahometans, and a few practise Fetichism. Frank Ludwig, of Erthal, and possessing a capital of upwards Polygamy is common. Amongst the marriage laws of the of 30,000. The principal manufactures of the town are of country is one of a sigular nature. Should a woman refuse I porcelain, gloves, jewellery, wax, tobacco, starch, musical to become a wife, and afterwards contract a marriage with j instruments, marble wares, &c. Large quantities of garden- another person, she maybe seized by the first suitor as a seeds, and of liquorice, are raised in the vicinity; of the slave. A remarkable feature in the moral character of this amiable, though primitive people, is the extraordinary love of children for their mothers a trait often touchingly displayed. Pop. estimated at 2,000,000. BAMBERG, a tn. Bavaria, circle, Upper Main, beautifully situated at the foot of a range of slopes clothed with orchards, hop-gardens, and vineyards, and traversed by the Regnitz, the branches of which divide the town into three districts, and give it a form very much resembling the letter |<- The com munication between these districts is maintained by seven bridges, one of them an elegant suspension bridge, about 250 ft. long and 30 broad. The town is surrounded with walls, and well built. Its handsome houses, spacious, well-paved, and well-lighted streets, together with the pleasant walks and the gardens of the environs, make it one of the finest towns, and most delightful residences in Bavaria. Among the public buildings of note are the Dom Kirche or cathedral, a fine structure, in the Byzantine style, founded in 1004, and contain ing, among other interesting monuments, the curious and richly-sculptured tomb of the emperor Henry II., and his empress, Cunigunda; the church of St. James, founded in 1073, and remarkable for its handsome portal and frescoed dome; St. Gangolph s Church, with two towers, and a fine altar-screen, executed by celebrated masters ; the upper parish church, or St. Mary s, a handsome Gothic building of a quad rangular form, containing several fine paintings and sculptures, and the Jesuit church of St. Martin s, a massy structure, in which beauty and grandeur are happily combined, and to which is attached a library, particularly rich in MSS. To these buildings may be added the old Benedictine monastery, occupying the height called St. Michael s Mount, and now converted into a workhouse ; the old palace of the bishops of Bamberg, the theatre, and the townhall, completed in 147G, THK TOWN Prom Da Konigrex-li and restored in 1 756. The educational and literary institu tions comprise a lyceum, in which full courses of divinity and philosophy are given by eight professors, assisted by other teachers, and attended by 700 pupils ; a normal school, a me chanics institute, a drawing academy, and a royal library, containing about 56,000 volumes; a museum of natural his- latter, about 50,000 Ibs. are annually sent abroad. The beer of Bamberg is in much repute throughout the surrounding country, and the demand for it is so great, as to employ up wards of 60 breweries. The environs abound in picturesque scenery. Pop., exclusive of military, 19,312, of whom 400 are Jews. (Huhn s Lex. Dcutschland.} BAMBOUK, a country in the interior of N.W. Africa, in the angle formed by the Faleme" and the Senegal, S. of the latter river, E. of Bondou, and N. of Wooli and Dentilca, in from lat. 12 30 to 14 30 N., and from Ion. 10 30 15" to 12 15 W. Its precise extent has not been ascertained, but is supposed to be about 140 m. in length, by 80 to 100 in breadth. It is, on the whole, a mountainous district, and in some parts rugged, though attaining no great elevation ; the highest points never exceeding 600 ft. above the general level of the land, while the ordinary heights are about 300 ft. The higher regions are sterile, being composed mostly of naked rock, but the valleys and plains are remarkable for their fertility, and for the luxuriance, or rather exuberance of their vegetation ; every sort of plant and tree attaining the most gigantic dimensions. Amongst the latter, the enormous baobab, the calabash, and tamarind, with a great variety of acacias and palm-trees, all of which reach here the utmost limits of their growth, and fruitfulness. The rich soil produces like wise in abundance, and almost without culture, maize, millet, cotton, water-melons, and an immense variety of leguminous plants. The low lands, which are subject to inundation, yield large crops of rice of the finest description. With all this fertility, however, Bambouk is one of the most unhealthy places on the face of the globe, and is wholly uninhabitable by Europeans. The rainy season, which lasts for four months, commences about July or August, flooding the low lands, and causing the rivers to overflow their banks, adding to the fer tility of the soil, but greatly increasing the insalubrity of the climate. Immense herds of wild oxen and cows rove through the forests, or feed on the rich pasture of the plains. Lions and elephants are also numerous, and birds and insects of all descriptions, while the rivers swarm with crocodiles of the most formidable kind. But the most remarkable feature of Bambouk is its rich gold mines. The principal one, an insu lated hill of 3000 paces in circumference, and about 300 ft. high, is at the distance of about 1 m. from the large and wealthy town of Natakoo. The soil of this hill is almost wholly auriferous, every cubic foot containing gold in the shape of lumps, grains, or spangles. It is perforated with deep holes or pits in all directions, the greatest quantities of gold being found at the greatest depths. There are numerous other noted gold mines in Bambouk ; those of Kenieba were were visited by Mr. Raffenel in 1843-44, who found them not extremely rich, and wrought, as might be expected, in the rudest manner possible. These mines being considered com mon property, are open to any of the inhabitants of the adja cent villages who choose to work in them. Most of the gold found is given to the Moors in exchange for salt a scarce and much coveted commodity in this part of Africa, as in many others. Bambouk is densely peopled. The natives are Man- dingoes, and so notorious for their ferocity and cruelty, as to be esteemed the type of barbarism. They profess the Maho metan religion, but disregard some of its most important observances, amongst others, as to the use of wine and intoxi cating liquors, drinking to excess of a description of the latter made from millet and honey. They are indolent and volup tuous, and prefer the less laborious employment of searching for gold, to cultivating the fertile lands with which they are surrounded. Bambouk was at onetime, during the 15th century, in the possession of the Portuguese, who had been tempted by its gold mines to invade the country. They do not appear, however, to have held it long. Many of them fell in quarrels amongst themselves, many by debauchery and disease, and the miserable remnant by the weapons of the natives, who, when their numbers were reduced, rose against them, aud massacred BAMBROUGH 313 BANAT them all in one day. The ruins of ancient Portuguese forts and houses are still to be seen in the country. BAMBROUGH, or BAMBORCUGH, a vil., par., and castle, England, co. Northumberland, on the coast. The VILLAGE, about 11 m. S.E. by S. Berwick on-Tweed lat. 55 37 N.; Ion. 1 42 W., is beautifully situated near the sea, and was anciently a royal borough, and important market town. It fell latterly into decay, but is again improving. Close by the village is the ancient castle of Bambrough, a residence of the Earls of Northumberland, and famous in English story. It stands majestically on the summit of a steep rock, which pro jects into the sea, and rises perpendicularly to the height of 150 ft. above low-water mark. The keep, a lofty square structure, is of Norman architecture, and is the most ancient part of the building. The date of the present structure is uncertain, but it is said that a fortress was erected here as early as the sixth century. In 1095, it was taken from the Northumberland family by William Rufus, and remained in possession of the crown till about the middle of the 15th century, soon after which it ceased to be considered a fortress of importance. The castle, latterly, fell by purchase into the hands of Lord Crewe, Bishop of Durham, who, at his decease, in 1720, left a large property to be applied to charitable pur poses. From this source a btnevolent establishment has been formed at Bambrough, for the succour of shipwrecked seamen, the education of children, and the relief of indigent persons. As part of the arrangement, ships stores of all sorts are kept in the castle, while various expedients are adopted in stormy weather to aid distressed vessels. Thirty girls are here edu cated, clothed, and boarded gratis. There are also two free schools, a good library, and a dispensary.- The PARISH con tains 21 townships, and three chapelries; area, 25,100 ac. Top. 4237. BAM1AN, or BAMEEAN, an ancient tn. and celebrated valley in Afghanistan. The town is situated on the slopes of an isolated hill situated in the latter, 52 m. N.W. Cabool ; lat. 34 17 N. ; Ion. 68 8 E. The valley is about 1 m. broad, and very fertile, and is bounded on each side by nearly per pendicular steeps. On the S. side, are several passes varying in height from 9000 to nearly 13,000 ft. The town and its vicinity throughout, indeed the whole extent of the valley, is crowded with relics of antiquity of an extraordinary descrip tion, including colossal idols, and vast caves excavated in the face of the living rock. Two of the idols are upwards of 130 ft. in height, and the caves so numerous as to extend in continued series for 8 miles. It is not known by whom these gigantic works were executed, although many more or less plausible conjectures have been hazarded on the subject. BAMMAKOO, a tn., W. Africa, Bambarra, 186 m. S.W. Sego, I. bank, Joliba, important for its commerce, especially iu salt. BAMOO. See BHAMO. BAMPOORA, or BIIAMPOORA, a tn. Hindoostan, prov. Malwa, on the Rewa, 1344 ft. above the sea level; lat. 24 33 N. ; Ion. 76 E. The fort of Bampoora is unfinished, but the walls are well built, and enclose a palace, also un finished, erected by order of Jeswunt Row Holcar, of whom it contains a statue in white marble. The city and pergnnnahs attached formed part of the dominions of Mulhar Row Holcar. Pop. 20,000. (Hamilton s East India Gaz.) BAMPTON, several towns and parishes, England: 1, A market tn. and par. Devon. The town, situated in a valley, on the river Batheram, an affluent of the Exe, about 20 m. N. Exeter, consists of two principal streets, irregular, but well kept ; houses, stone and slate, but indifferently built ; spring water abundant. It has a church (an ancient, but neat structure), and a Baptist chapel; several schools, including national one for 50 boys and 50 girls ; also two or three minor charities, by one of which 25 boys and 25 girls are clothed yearly. At one time, the serge trade was carried on here to a considerable extent, but has declined since the introduction of machinery. The chief business of the place consists in stone-quarrying and lime-burning. Bampton is noted for its fairs for sheep and cattle, particularly that held on the last Thursday of October. Area of par. 8130 ac. Pop. 2049 of tn. 1275. 2, A tn. and par. Oxford. The town is 16 m. ly road W. by S. Oxford, and 70 W.N.W London ; hou neatly built ; supply of water ample. The town was cele brated in former times for its manufacture of leather jackets, VOL. I. gloves, &c. Area of par. 10,250 ac. Pop. 2734. 3, A par. Westmorland; area, 10,390 ae. Pop. 579. BAN-DE-LA-ROCHE, a valley, France, dep. Vosges, cele brated as the scene of Oberlin s labours. It lies among the mountains of the Vosges, and is enclosed by a number of rounded schistous hills, some of which are 1000 ft. above the leadows below. The soil is naturally sterile, and the climate is severe. Winter sets in about the beginning of October, the snow lies deep, and seldom melts away before the middle of May, leaving at the utmost only five months of tolerable weather. Half a century since, this valley was a barren desert, inhabited by a few poor ignorant peasants. By the labours of a single Christian philanthropist, roads were made, trees planted, schools erected, a better system of agriculture introduced, and the moral habits of the people so much improved, that manufac tures established themselves here, from no other motive than that of obtaining work-people whose conduct was so exemplary. The chief establishment is a cotton ribbon factory. At the entrance of the valley, in the churchyard of the quiet village of Fonday, is the tomb of Oberlin, a plain stone, with his name engraved, and an inscription bearing in terms equally true and touching, He was 60 years the Father of this district. BAN, or BANOWICZ, a lordship and market tn. Hungary, S.E. Trentschin, 64 m. N. Komorn, on a height, near an affluent of the Neutra, with nine annual markets, and an extensive trade in cattle, wool, and iron. Pop. 2660. BANAGHER. 1, A market tn. Ireland, King s co., 42 m. E. Kildare, on elevated ground, 1. bank. Shannon, here crossed by a handsome new bridge of 60 elliptical arches, with lavigable opening of 40 ft. It consists chiefly of one long, rrow street; has a church, R. catholic chapel, royal en dowed and national schools, and small infantry barracks ; a considerable trade in corn and provisions, and large horse and cattle fairs. Pop. 2827. 2, A par. Londonderry; 32,475 ac. Pop. 5810. BANAL-MILITARGRENZE, in Austria, a division in the S.E. of Military Croatia, between the rivers Save, Kulpa, and Una, subdivided into the two nearly equal districts of Banal-Grenz-Regiment I., and Banal-Grenz-Regiment II., each with an area of 400 geo. sq. m. The former has Glina for its capital, and consists of the free military community of Petrinia and 130 villages ; the latter consists of the free military com munity of Costainicza or Kostainiza and 143 villages. The whole Banal is hilly, but tolerably fertile, producing all kinds of corn and pulse, also maize, flax, hemp, and madder. Banal was taken from the Turks by Leopold I., and secured to Austria, by the peace of Carlo witz, in 1699. Pop. 119,600. BANANA ISLANDS, a group of small islands, N.W. Africa, off the coast of Sierra Leone, near Cape Shilling ; lat. 8 8 N. ; Ion. 13 11 42" W. (R.) The largest is 4 m. long, and 1 broad. They are extremely fertile, have abundance of water, and are so comparatively healthy, that the European residents of Sierra Leone, from which they are little more than 30 m. distant, frequently resort to them for the benefit of their health. Good anchorage off the islands in 5 fathoms. All inhabited. BANANAL. 1, Two villages, Brazil. The one in prov. Sao Paulo, on the road from the city of that name to Rio de Janeiro, in the district of Areas, and near the r. bank of the Paraiba. In the vicinity, coffee and sugar are extensively cultivated, and large quantities of poultry are reared for the Rio de Janeiro market. The other vil. is in prov. Rio de Janeiro, on a streamlet of the same name, an affluent of the Paraiba from the right, and navigable for about 5 m. It has a church and sugar-mill. 2, A river isl. Brazil, called also SANTA ANNA, formed by the river Araguia. It lies in the N.E. corner of prov. Matto-Grosso, is 200 m. long by about 35 broad, covered with vast forests, and has in its centre a- navigable lake, said to be about 90 m. long by about 30 broad. The soil of the island is extremely fertile. The name Bananal was given it from the remarkable increase in the banana-trees planted there by the discoverers in 1773. BANAT, a large prov. Austria (cap. Temeswar), bounded, N. by Hungary, W. Hungary and Sclavonia, S. Servia, E. Wallachia and Siebenbiirgen or Transylvania. It consists of the three counties of Temes, Torontal, and Krasso, and two- military districts, called the German Banat and the Wallacho- Illyrian Banat. Greatest length, from E. to W., 120 m. ;. greatest breadth, from N. to S., 98 m. ; area, 5720 geo. sq. nu 40 BANBRIDGE 314 BANDA It is very compact, in form approaching a square; bounded by the Danube, Theiss, and Maros, on all sides excftpt the E., where it becomes hilly. With this exception the surface is flat, and on the W. is partly covered with swamps. The other rivers, besides those mentioned, are the Temes, which traverses the province almost centrally; the Nera, the Karasch, and the Alt Bega, so called to distinguish it from the Neu Bega, a canal about 85 m. long, and wholly within the pro vince. Taken as a whole, the Banat is one of the most fertile districts in Europe. Its wheat has long been famous for the great quantity and excellence of the flour it yields ; while its maize frequently gives 24, 48, or even 60 returns. The vine is extensively planted, and great attention is paid to the rear ing of the silkworm. Good cotton also is grown. Live Stock is abundant, and of good breed. Rearing horses particularly engages the attention of the German colonists. The whole territory is well wooded, and game abounds. Immense flocks of water fowl frequent the marshy districts ; and the rivers, particularly the Theiss, teem with fish. The minerals hitherto have not been considered of very much importance, but an extensive coal field has been recently discovered. The in habitants belong to various races. Magyar villages prevail in the N., Servian in the W., and German colonies both in the W. and S. There are also several settlements of Bul garians and other races, but the mass of the population is Wallaehian. Pop. nearly 1,000,000. BANBRIDGE, a market tn. Ireland, co. Down, 22 m. S.W. Belfast, on the Barm, which, flows through, and divides it into two portions, one of which occupies a rising ground on the 1. bank of the river, the other a sloping space on the r. bank. It consists of four streets; houses chiefly stone, and well built; well supplied with water, but not lighted. The only buildings of any note are the church, in the Gothic style ; three Pres byterian meeting-houses, Episcopalian, R. catholic, and Uni tarian chapels, and a large union workhouse, with fever hospital attached. There are five or six schools; one of which is in connection with the Church Education Society, two in connection with the National Board of Education, and several private schools. A literary institute has been lately established, where monthly lectures are delivered on literary and scientific subjects. The principal manufactory is that of linen, which is carried on to a great extent both in the town and neighbourhood ; where are also several bleaching estab lishments. Pop. 3324. (Local Correspondent.} B ANBURY, aparl. bor. and par. England, co. Oxford. The town, situated in a valley, on the Cherwell, 22 m. N. Oxford, consists of several spacious streets, well paved and lighted ; water abundant. The church, a modern erection, with a tower 133 ft. high, has an ungainly exterior, but is well fitted up within. Independents, Particular Baptists, and Wesleyans, have each a neat and commodious place of worship; and there are small chapels, also, for Primitive Methodists, Calvinistic Dissenters, and Unitarians ; a R. catholic chapel, lately built, and a Friends meeting-house. It has four schools (a charity, national, British, and infant), and numerous charitable in stitutions, supported by voluntary contribution ; a mechanics institute, subscription library, theatre, townhall, and jail. Manufactures: plushes, girth, and other webbing; celebrated also for its cakes, which have been famous for upwards of two centuries, and for its ale. An extensive trade in cattle, corn, and all kinds of provisions. Returns a member to the House of Commons. Registered electors (1849), 538. Area of par. 3150 ac. Pop. 736(5. BANCA, BANKA, or BANGKA, a large isl. Indian Archi pelago, belonging to Holland, between Sumatra and Borneo, celebrated for its tin. It lies between lat. 1 30 and 3 7 S., .and Ion. 103 9 and 106 54 E. ; is of irregular shape, and .about 108 geo. m. long, by 64 broad at its N. end, the broadest .part ; area, 4340 sq. m. ; separated \V. from Sumatra by the Strait of Banca, about 14 m. broad; and E. from the island of Biliton by Gaspar Strait. It has several considerable bays, of which the most important are Muntock and Claba ; and is .hilly, but none of its elevations much exceed 2000 ft. The higher hills are granite, the lower of red ferruginous earth. In black alluvium between these latter are found the tin de posits, discovered first by chance in 1710, and rarely more than 25 ft. below the surface. Only a small portion of the island, in the N. end, near the capital Minto or Muntock, has yet been explored for this metal ; the yield of which, in 1841, reached 4189 tons. The Banca tin is the best obtained in the Indian Archipelago, and said to be equal, or nearly so, to that obtained in Britain. Besides this metal, the island yields iron, lead, copper, silver, and arsenic ; rock-crystal and amethyst ; and, in the W. part, there are beds of lignite. The hills are covered with valuable timber, particularly red-wood (hcematoxy- lon) ; resinous trees are in great numbers, those furnishing gum elastic, and the myrtaceae, forming whole forests. Though vegetation is very vigorous, the soil and climate of Banca are not favourable to cultivation ; the former being too stony and dry for the latter, which, during August, is so hot, that all the leaves of the trees are dried up ; still, were the numerous streams by which the island is intersected turned to the pur poses of irrigation, with the same attention that they are ap propriated to the washing of tin, excellent agricultural results might be obtained. Among the vegetable products may be named dragon s blood, sassafras, nutmegs, benzoin, sago, cassia, &c. The fauna of this island includes three species of apes, and the Galeopithecus marmoratus, all common to Sumatra ; Stenops tardigradus, Pteropus funereus, Viverra Indica, Sus vittatus and verrucosus, Cervus russa, and Moschus kantchil. Neither tigers, bears, nor large pachyderms are to be found in the island, of which probably the most formidable animal is the alligator, which infests the rivers in great numbers, and is exceedingly audacious, attacking boats without hesitation. The birds are nearly similar to those found in Java and Su matra. Banca is inhabited by Malays, Chinese, and a small number of Bengal Cipays, and a still smaller number of Bugis from Celebes. The Chinese, numbering 18,000, are the only laborious race in the island, one of them doing as much work as any three of the others. The climate on the higher grounds is esteemed tolerably healthy ; but on the lower grounds, and along some parts of the coast, which are swampy, fever, of a very dangerous kind, is so prevalent, that Dutch soldiers think no greater misfortune can befall them than to be ordered to Banca. Pop. (1840), 35,000. (Van der Aa; Temminck s Coup d ceil ; Davidson s Trade and Travels in the Far East.} 2, A small island group at the N.E. point of Celebes, separated from that island by a narrow strait of same name. The largest island, whence the group takes its name, is in lat. (E. point) 1 43 S. ; Ion. 125 12 E. (R.) It is about 7 m. long, well inhabited, and produces lemons, cocoa-nuts, bread fruit, ratans, tortoise-shell, &c. BANCALLAN, or BANCALLANG, a large and populous tn., W. coast, isl. Madura, Indian Archipelago ; lat. 7 2 S. ; Ion. 1 12 43 E. ; cap. of the isl., and of the dist. of same name, with a fort and palace ; in the latter of which the sultan of the island resides. The Dutch have a residency here, and a considerable trade is carried on. BANCHORY. 1, (Devenick, or Davinick), a par. Scot land, partly in co. Aberdeen, and partly in that of Kincardine. Pop. 2736. 2, Banchory-Ternan, another par. wholly in the latter co.; area, 21,307 ac. Pop. 2241. The affixes in both cases are the names of saints. The etymology of the word | Banchory is unknown. BANDA, a gov. or prov., Dutch possessions, Indian Archipelago, composed of the Banda Islands, the E. part of isl. Ceram, and the isls. Keffing, Ceramlaut, Kisser, Gorum Key, and Aroo. BANDA, a Moluccan island group, belonging to Holland, Indian Archipelago, in the Banda Sea, S. Ceram, between lat. 3 50 and 4 40 S. ; Ion. 129 38 and 1 30 2 E. The group consists of the inhabited islands of Great Banda or Lonthoir, by far the largest, about 12 m. long by 2 broad; Banda Neira, Pulo Rhun, Pulo Ay, Goenong Api, a volcano, and Rosingyn ; and of the uninhabited islands of Kapal, Pisang Sjethan, and Vrouwen. They are all of volcanic origin, covered with a thick stratum of garden earth, admirably adapted for the cul tivation of the nutmeg, which is, however, limited to the three more important islands, Great Banda or Lonthoir, Banda Neira, and Pulo Ay, the cultivators being partly slaves and partly convicts, together comprising upwards of three-fifths of the total population of the group. The annual produce is upwards of 400,000 Ibs. of nutmeg, and above 130,000 Ibs. of mace. Besides these articles, some trade is done in the oil obtained from the nuts of the Canarium commune, a tree which here attains great perfection. When fresh, the oil is used at table; when stale, for burning. Other vegetable products of those islands, which are all well wooded, are cocoa-nuts, sago, BANDA ORIENTAL 315 BANEZA pisang, and the ordinary tropical fruits. Wild cattle are found on some of them, especially on Rosingyn, where they are hunted by the officers of the garrison. Wild goats, sheep, and pigs are also found. The most remarkable birds are four kinds of pigeons, Columba perspicillata, aenea, javanica, and diademata; and some species of muscicapa and nectarinia. j The two species of pigeons first named are very destructive to the nutmegs, which they eagerly seek, and swallow whole ; ! and, after digesting the fleshy substantial envelope, they void the nut or kernel in a state fit for germination. In like manner, I also, they, and species of the genus Buceros, swallow and void the fruit of the clove-tree, and of the Canarium commune. To ; birds such as these, capable of long-sustained flight, has nature committed the diffusion of the aromatic plants over the Archi- ! pelago. The harbour, which is beautiful, well-sheltered, and easy : of access, lies N. the island of Great Banda, and between it j and the islands of Banda Neira and Goenong Api, all of which approach close to each other. It is defended by several forts , of which the more important are those of Belgica and Nassau on Banda Neira, and llollandia on Great Banda. On the for- mer of these islands is the governor s residence, and the small village or town of same name, the houses in which are built chiefly of wood, and roofed with leaves, on account of the fre quent earthquakes to which the group is subject, caused by the island Goenong Api, which rises 7880 ft. above the sea, and is one of the most active volcanoes in the Indian Archi pelago. It forms an immense cone, increasing in size with each eruption, and is covered with luxuriant vegetation to the limit where the lava, by becoming cold, ceases to flow ; but down through the vegetation to the sea, are to be seen the courses of lava torrents, filled with half burnt-up trees. At the foot of the mountain, cocoa-nut, and other fruit trees of tropical countries, flourish ; and its only inhabitants are a few families, natives of Timor. The proximity of this volcano subjects the Banda Islands to the ravages of frequent eruptions, and of frequent earthquakes, some of which have been very de structive. The strongest recorded were those of 1598, 1615 1 632, 1691, 1711, 1749, 1798, and 1820; but the most fatal in their consequences, those of 1629, 1683, 1686, 1743, and 1816. So terrible were the ravages of the eruption and earthquake of 1691, that all the more wealthy inhabitants fled the islands, and emigrated to Amboina, Ternate, &c., and only through the firmness and courage of the governor, Coyet, was the total abandonment of the establishment prevented. Goenong Api likewise renders the climate very insalubrious. The annual deaths in the group are one in 21. Several of the islands have no fresh water. Pop. of the whole group in 1840, 5081, of whom 2183 were slaves, and 1029 convicts. (Van der Aa; Temmincks Coup d ceil; Jour. Ind. Archip.; Stokes s Dis coveries in Australia.) BANDA ORIENTAL. See URUGUAY. BANDA SEA, Asiatic or Indian Archipelago, the space of sea enclosed by the islands of Booro and Ceram, on the N. ; Timor and the Serwatty Islands, on the S.; Timor Laut, Larat, and other small islands, on the E. ; and the Flores Sea, Oil the W. BANDAH, a tn. Ilindoostan, prov. of, and 94 m. W. by N. Allahabad, presid. Calcutta, cap. dist. of S. Bundelkhund, r. bank, Cane; lat. 25 31 N.; Ion. 80 20 E. A few years ago, this town was an unimportant village, but is now a large and bustling town. Its cotton is proverbially excellent. BANDITTI, a small isl. Indian Archipelago, Strait of Lombok; lat. (S.E. point) 8 51 S.; Ion. 115 29 E. (u.) about 13 m. long by about 10 broad. BANDOLS [anc. Bandoluni], a vil. France, dep. Var (Provence), about 10 m. from Toulon, occupying a lovely spot on the shores of the Mediterranean, and enjoying a I climate in which frost is scarcely known, where the orange grows in the open air, and artichokes, green peas, and the early crops of less favoured climates, are gathered in the dead of winter. Pop. 1814. BANDON, or BANDONBRIDGE, a tn. Ireland, co. of, and 20 m. S.W. Cork, on both banks of the Bandon, a beautiful stream celebrated by Spenser as The pleasant Bandon crowned by many a wood. There are several good streets in the town, straight and well kept; houses of stone from a quarry in the vicinity ; generally well built, lighted, and amply supplied with water. There are two parish churches, two R. catholic chapels, two Methodist chapels, one Scotch church, and one Unitarian meeting house. The other principal public buildings are the courthouse, mar ket-house, and savings -bank, none of which are worthy of note in an architectural point of view ; and a small barrack, where one troop of horse, and a company of foot, are accommodated. There are two good classical schools, besides two paro chial schools in connection with the Church of England, two national, and one Methodist school, for the instruction of the lower classes. Baudon was, about 25 years ago, a flourishing manufacturing town, but hardly a vestige of its former prosperity now remains. Between 3000 and 4000 persons were then employed in weaving, cotton-spinning, &c., but these, and all other branches of industry, with the exception of distilling and porter-brewing, carried on by two distilleries arid two brew eries, have wholly disappeared, the largest cotton-mill in the place having been converted into an auxiliary workhouse. Bandon is one of the most remarkable towns in the S. of Ire land. Peopled originally by a colony of English Protestants, it has been always distinguished for its loyalty and strictly Protestant character. Indeed, so strictly Protestant was it at one time, that, until about the period of the Union, no It. catholic would be permitted to live within its walls. It returns a member to the House of Commons ; constituency in 1850, 396. Pop. 9049. (Local Correspondent.) BANDONG, a tn. Java, 75 in. S.E. Batavia. It has an agreeable aspect, but, in consequence of the vicinity of morasses, is unhealthy. The hills around are clothed to a con siderable height with coffee plantations, and the lower grounds are covered with rice fields. BANEC, or BANNEC, a small isl. France, S. Cape Finis- tere, between Ushant and the mainland; lat. 48 2y 7" N.; Ion. 5 V 42" W. BASfERAS, or BANERES, a tn. Spain, Valencia, prov. of, and 28 m. N. by W. Alicante, r. bank, Vinalapo ; tolerably well built, has a parish church, a townhouse, two schools, an hospital, prison, and three public fountains. The inhabitants, though chiefly agricultural, manui acture caps, blankets, and winter clothing. Pop. 2236. BANEZA (LA), a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 28 m. S.W. Leon, at the head of a valley, r. bank, Suerto, here crossed by a wooden bridge. It has straight and tolerably good streets, one principal and three smaller squares, two parish churches, four chapels, one Latin and three other schools, a townhouse, prison, extensive hospital, storehouse, &c. Pop. 2308, chiefly agricultural, but also manufacturing coarse cloth and ticking, hats, tiles, bricks, leather, and eartheu- I ware. ille, Voyage an Pjle Sud. BANFF 316 BANGKOK BANFF, a co. Scotland, bounded N. by the Moray Frith, S. and E. by the co. Aberdeen, and W. by cos. Moray and Inverness ; extreme length, about 67 m. ; breadth, very un equal, averaging about 12 m. ; area, 647 sq. m., or 414,080 ac. The general surface is mountainous, the county contain ing some of the highest mountains in Britain ; Cairngorm, celebrated for its topazes, rising 4060 ft. above the level of the sea ; Benrinnes, 2763 ft. (according to the late Government survey); Corryhabbie, 2558 ft.; Knockhill, 2500 ft.; and Cabrach, 2377 ft. The N. side of Benmacdui, the highest of all the Scottish mountains, is also in this county. These mountains generally consist of a nucleus of granite, overlain by gneiss, quartz rock, and mica schist, succeeded by clay- slate, and old red sandstone. At Portsoy, near the coast, there is a bed of serpentine, known by the name of Portsoy marble; and in different places iron and lead have been dis covered. Towards the E. the mountains gradually slope away, and leave along the coast a level tract, which extends about 30 m., and has a fertile soil, which is well cultivated, and produces large and early crops. In the interior there is comparatively little arable land, but many fertile valleys between the hills and mountains well adapted for grazing the principal dependence of the farmer, as the coldness and humidity of the climate render the harvests precarious, and always late, being seldom completed before the end of October. Agriculture has made considerable progress in the county, but there is still ample room for improvement. The farm- steadings are in general substantial, the fields well enclosed, and large tracts of waste land are brought every year under cultivation. The principal rivers are the Spey, remarkable for its rapidity, and for the value of its salmon-fisheries, which, for some miles from its mouth, yield a rent of from 8000 to 10,000 a year to the Duke of Richmond, who is now proprietor; the Doveran, whose salmon-fisheries rent at 2000 a year ; the Avon, the waters of which are so singularly transparent, and consequently so deceptive as to depth, that it is extremely dangerous for strangers to attempt to ford it. Salmon were abundant in this river in former times, but they are now scarce; it is still, however, an excellent trouting stream, and for this sport is preferred by anglers to the Spey. There are, besides these, the smaller streams of Livet, Fid- dich, Isla, and Conglass, the first giving its name to the Glen so celebrated for its whisky. The Isla is another fine trout- ing stream, and the scenery on its banks beautiful. The principal lakes are Lochavon, 3 m. long and 1 broad ; and Lochbuilg, upwards of 1 m. long, and about half a mile broad, both in the parish of Kirkmichael, and both abounding in trout. Game of all kinds abounds in the county. Its most valuable minerals are marble, limestone, marl, granite, free stone, slate, rock-crystals, and topazes. Its manufactures are few and unimportant, comprising several breweries, tanneries, and ropeworks. Its commerce is confined to the coasting- trade, through the medium of the ports at Banff, Macduff, Portsoy, and Gardenstown, where oats, butter, salmon, &c., are shipped, and coals, iron, and timber imported. The principal productions of the county are cattle, corn, and fish. The white fisheries along the coast occupy from 100 to 120 boats. The herring-fishing is also extensive. The county is divided into districts, and includes 24 parishes, but only one town of any consequence, namely, Banff. It returns one member to the House of Commons ; constituency in 1849, 826. Pop. (1851), 54,171. BANFF, a seaport tn. and royal bor. Scotland, cap. above CO., 121 m N. by E. Edinburgh, and 39 m. N.W. Aberdeen ; lat. (N. pier) 57 40 18" N. ; Ion. 2 31 30" W. (R.) ; situ ated at the influx of the Doveran, across which is a fine bridge of seven arches, into the Moray Frith ; it is separated into two parts, one of which lies partly on the lower extremity of a plain on the river side, and partly on a declivity; the other portion, called the Sea Town, stands on an elevated ridge, terminating abruptly within a short distance of the sea. Be tween these two, and beautifully situated on a projecting point, stands the castle. The houses are, for the most part, irregu lar in size, but the streets are generally straight and wide, and are kept remarkably clean ; one of them, under different names, is more than half a mile in length. The town contains a gas- work, a commodious market-place in a centrical situation, and public baths, all of modern erection. It has Established, Free, United Presbyterian, Independent, Episcopalian, and R. catholic places of worship ; a literary society, and scientific institution ; several benevolent institutions, several well-con ducted educational institutions, and four branch banks. The public buildings of note, besides churches, are the townhouse, adorned by an elegant spire ; and an academy. The harbour is situated on the W. extremity of a circular bay, at the opposite extremity of which are the town and harbour of Macduff. It consists of an old basin partly sanded up, and now suitable only for vessels of very limited draught of water ; and of a new basin formed by a pier and breakwater, built in 1816. Vessels drawing 12 ft. water can enter the new basin at high water of ordinary neap tides; drawing 15 ft. at spring tides. The herring- fishery of the port was at one time very considerable, there being about 70 boats employed in it in the year 1819; but, in 1848, the number had fallen off to 22. The number of vessels registered in 1847, was 1 14 ; tonn. 9396 ; mostly em ployed in carrying grain, herrings, salmon, live cattle, and cured pork, to London, Leith, Aberdeen, and other places in the S. There is also a small foreign trade, occasional voyages being made to Sweden, Russia, and Holland, for iron, deals, hemp, and flax. Of the few and limited manufactures in the town, the principal are a foundry, and some small manufac tories of ropes and sails, chiefly for home use. The town was erected into a royal burgh by Robert II., in 1372 ; after wards confirmed by James VI. and Charles II. In 1645, the town was pitifully plundered by the Marquis of Mon- trose, by which the inhabitants were reduced to a state of absolute beggary, as set forth in their humble supplication to the high court of Parliament, in 1647 ; the copy of which is indorsed, Supplicatione, Town of Banff Bodies, 1647. Par liament granted the petitioners their own excise as a means of relief. James Sharp, the celebrated Archbishop of St. Andrews, was born in Banff castle in May 1613 ; and James Macpherson, the notorious Highland outlaw, was executed here on November 16, 1700. Banff suffered by the great inundations of 1829 and 1835, there being, on these occasion.*, 5 or 6 ft. of water in some of the streets. The town is governed by a provost, four magistrates, and 17 councillors, all elected by the 10 constituency. The parliamentary con stituency, in 1849, amounted to 218, Banff uniting with Elgin, Cullen, Inverury, Kintore, and Peterhead, in sending a member to the House of Commons. Pop. of tn. 5309 ; of par., exclusive of bor., 3958. BANGALORE [Barujalura}, a fortified tn. Hindoostan, Mysore, 70 m. N.E. Seringapatam, 190 m. W. Madras; lat. 13 N. ; Ion. 77 40 E. ; built on a plateau 3000 ft. above the sea, and much resorted to by Europeans, on account of its salubrious climate, the thermometer ranging between 82 and 57 Fah. The cypress and vine grow luxuriantly ; and apples, peaches, and strawberries are raised in the gardens. The houses are in general two stories high, well built of red earth, and roofed with tiles. The principal bazaar is spacious and handsome, ornamented with rows of cocoa-nut trees. Tippoo Saib s palace, built of mud, in the Saracenic style, is an im pressive structure, used occasionally by the rajah for public entertainments. The fortress, detached from the town, was of great extent and strength ; but it is now in ruins, having been destroyed by Tippoo Sultan, when he found that it was not impregnable. The cantonment is about 2 m. from the town ; and contains a large barracks, numerous shops stocked with European manufactures, a public library and assembly-room, and a handsome race-stand. From its central position, Bangalore is of considerable importance, both poli tically and as a trading station. Its merchants carry on a traffic with every part of S. India; chiefly in sugar, salt, betel-nut, metals, spices, dye-stuffs, raw silk, and cotton wool. The silk goods manufactured here are of a particularly strong description. The cotton bought at the weekly markets is spun by poor women of all castes, except the Brahmin. Bangalore was founded by Hyder Ali ; in 1791, it was taken by Lord Cornwall!*. Pop. 60,000. BANGIL, a tn. Java, 23 m. S. Soorabaya, having good houses, many of them large stone buildings, and a spacious, roomy market-place, well supplied with provisions, and much frequented. BANGKA. See BANCA. BANGKOK, or BANKOK, an extensive city, cap. of the kingdom of Siain, extending for 3 or 4 in. on both sides of the Menam, 15 m. above its embouchure in the Gulf of Siam, BANGKOK 317 BANGOR and 45 m. S. Yuthia or Siam, the former capital; lat. 13 58 N.; Ion. 100 34 E. (u.) The river is deep enough for vessels of 350 tons, but there is a bar at its mouth on which the depth at low water is never more than 6 ft., and at no time exceeds 14 ft. The city properly consists of three parts the town itself, the floating town, and the royal palace. The first stands on a rich tract of alluvial land, low, but not marshy, and in tersected by tributary streams, and winding creeks and canals, so that almost all intercourse is by water. Owing to the daily tides, and the annual inundations to which the town is exposed, the houses, which are mostly of wood, and many of them wretched hovels, are built on piles, and elevated above the water level. There are no regular streets, and each house has a small canoe or boat for its use. The floating town occupies the channel of the river, opposite to the town itself, leaving a considerable opening in the centre. The floating houses are of an oblong form, constructed of boards, and rest ing on rafts of bamboos, moored to the bank, in rows of eight, ten, or more in depth ; they are occupied principally by Chinese, and provided with a covered platform, on which merchandise, fruits, rice, earthenware, dried fish, and fresh pork, are exposed for sale. The king s palace is on an island, from 2 to 3 m. in length, but of inconsiderable breadth, separated from the land by a narrow arm of the river, and is surrounded by high walls. Numerous temples, conspicuous by their tall spires and glittering gilding, are scattered through nwfunrt Embassy to Siam the city. The principal one is of a pyramidal form, and is surmounted by a spire 200 ft. high. The palace, temples, and houses of a few chiefs, are the only edifices of brick and mortar, roofed with timber, and covered with red tiles. Fires are in con sequence frequent. There are a R. catholic bishop, and three R. catholic churches, at Bangkok, and about 1000 R. catholics, either converted natives, or descendants of Portuguese settlers. The trade of Bangkok is considerable. The imports into the port, in the year 1846, amounted to about 1,130,000 ticals (120,000), and the exports to 1,500,000 ticals (about 160,000) ; this amount comprehending the trade with Singa pore, Bombay, Batavia, Palembang, and England, but not the direct junk trade with China, which is very large, but of which no estimate can be obtained. The import duties are levied, not with any regard to the value of the goods, but upon the tonnage of the vessels entering the port. They act, therefore, almost as a prohibition, especially on cotton manufactures, which hold the most important place in the trade. Principal exports : sugar, pepper, lac, ivory, aromatic wood, and fine wood for cabinet-work ; tin, hides, cotton, rice, salt fish, edible nests, &c. Chief imports : porcelain, tea, mercury, dried fruits, silk and silk goods, nankins, paper, and other Chinese manufactures ; Indian printed goods, British cotton goods and woollens, British glassware, and opium. The commerce with the interior is also important. There is a considerable manu facture of tin vessels by the Chinese settlers ; who are also workers in iron and leather, tanning and preparing large quan tities of deer, ox, and buffalo hides for exportation. Vessels of 300 tons burden, and a great number of large junks, are built here of the teak and other timber furnished by the Siamese forests. The Chinese and their descendants compose nearly three-fourths of the inhabitants. The remainder con sists of Siamese, natives of Cambodia, Burmese, Peguans, Malays, and natives of Laos. Total pop. estimated at between 350,000 and 500,000. (Crawfurd s Embassy to Siam; Ham ilton s East India Gas.; Singapore Free Press.) BANGOR, a city, port, and par., N. Wales, co. Carnarvon, at the head of Beaumaris Bay ; lat. 53 13 N. ; Ion. 4 6 W.; beautifully situated at the entrance of a small valley which opens upon the Laven Sands, opposite to, and about 2^ m. S.E. Beaumaris, on the railway to Holyhead. It consists chiefly of one narrow crooked street, nearly 1 m. in length, and several smaller, lighted with gas, and abundantly supplied with water ; houses substantially built of stone. The prin cipal buildings are the cathedral, a finely-situated and hand some structure, chiefly in the later style of English architec ture, 214 ft. in length, breadth of body and side aisles, 60 ft. ; an Episcopal palace, deanery house, freo school, market-house, assembly-rooms, and infirmary. The other places of worship are a Baptist, Independent, R. catholic, two Calvinistic, and two Wesleyan chapels. Bangor has likewise a free grammar, national, British, infant, and two boarding schools, an infir mary, dispensary, and a set of alms-houses for. six poor old single men. The principal trade is in slate, brought by rail way from quarries about 7 m. distant, which employ upwards of 2000 men; chimney-pieces, tomb-stones, ridge-slates, writing-slates for schools, &c., are manufactured from slate in the town. The only other trade carried on is shipbuilding. The scenery around Bangor is exceedingly pleasing and picturesque, and in many parts characterized by features of striking grandeur. The town is, on this account, much frequented by strangers, no fewer, it is said, than 50,000 visiting it annually. Bangor is one of five parliamentary boroughs returning together one member to the House of Commons. Market- day Friday; four fairs annually. Area of par. 6000 ac. Pop. of tn. and par. (1841), 7232 ; bor. alone, 5030, now (1850) estimated at 6000. (Local Correspondent.} BANGOR, par., N. Wales, co. Cardigan. Pop. 210. BANGOR-MONACHORUM, BANGOR-IS-Y- COED, par., N. Wales, cos. Flint and Denbigh. Pop. 1257. BANGOR, atn., seaport, and par. Ireland, co. Down. The town, situated on an acclivity, S. side of Belfast Lough, 4 m. N.W. Dona- ghadee, lat. 54 40 N. ; Ion. 5 35 W., consists of one prin cipal and several smaller streets, all clean and well kept ; houses of stone, but some of them so old and dilapidated, as to give a very unfavourable appearance to the town. There are many neat buildings, however, along the shore, which are let in the summer season as bathing quarters, Bangor being much resorted to for this purpose. It has an Episcopal church, a small Methodist, and a R. catholic chapel, and two Presbyterian churches, one of which is an elegant structure, and finely situated near the centre of the town ; several well-conducted mercantile and mathematical schools, two cotton spinning-mills, and some trade in import ing coals. The male part of the population is chiefly employed in fishing ; the females in hand-sewing, in all its branches. Bangor takes its name from one of the earliest religious houses built with lime and sand Bangor, i.e., White wall ; built in 555 ; destroyed by the Danes in the 12th century, and rebuilt by Malachy O Morgair, primate of Armagh part of the walls are still standing. In this town and parish are six Presby terian churches ; 9500 inhabitants, of which upwards of 9000 are Presbyterians, descendants of Scotch settlers in the reigns of Elizabeth and James I. Hamilton the poet, and corre spondent of Allan Ramsay, was a native of Bangor, and Moore ! contends that this, and not Bangor in Wales, was the birth place of Pelagius. Pop. of tn. 3500. (Local Correspondent.) BANGOR, a city and pert, U. States, cap. co. Penobscot, Maine, at the head of the navigation, r. bank, Penobscot river, 60 m. from the sea ; lat. 44 47 50" N. ; Ion. 68 47 W.; 68 m. E.N.E. Augusta, and 230 N.E. Boston; occupies BANG-PA-KUNG 318 BANJOEWANGI a pleasant and commanding situation, affording a fine view of I and well-watered by numerous streams, of which the Banjar the river and surrounding country. The buildings, both is navigable for a considerable distance inland. The soil is public and private, are neat, and many of them elegant. It \ exceedingly fertile, bearing a spontaneous vegetation of great has seven churches a Congregational, Episcopal, Baptist, richness and variety. Amongst the products are dragons Methodist, Lutheran, Universalist, and R. catholic ; two blood, wax, pepper, benzoin, rattans, rice, and cotton ; birds academies, 25 schools, a courthouse, and three banks. There i nests, iron, gold, and diamonds, large and fine. The gold is is here also a theological seminary, called The Maine Charity found at a depth of 15 to 20 ft. Good coal in abundance is School. It is under the direction of the Congregationalists, I found in the S.E., on the river Riam. In the N., at Nagara has three professors, 43 students, 139 alumni, and 7000 i and Margasari, famed steel blades and other kinds of armour volumes in its libraries. The harbour is spacious, of easy are manufactured, and excellent proas are constructed. The access, and capable of floating vessels of a large class, the population is meagre for the extent of country, being estimated tide rising 17 ft.; but it is not open in winter. The prin cipal article of trade is lumber, brought down the river Penobscot in large quantities, 1200 vessels, of about 100 tons each, being employed in this trade during the navigation season. There are, besides, 100 vessels engaged in the coasting trade, 50 in foreign commerce, and about 20 in the fisheries. It enjoys regular communication with Portland and Boston, by steamers, for eight months in the year. The city is governed by a mayor, seven aldermen, and 21 com- mon-councilmen. Pop. (1840), 8027. (1846) at not more than 120,000. (Van der Aa; Temminck, Coup rl feil ; Mntiitf.ur des Indes.) BANJALUKA, a sanjak and tn. Turkey in Europe, prov. Croatia. The town stands on the Verbas, which here separates Bosnia from Croatia, in lat. 44 45 N.; Ion. 17 12 E. It is strongly fortified, and contains a citadel, a number of mosques, several colleges, baths, and bazaars, and a manu factory of gunpowder. Pop. 7000. BANJARMASSIN, a tn. Borneo, Dutch cap. of above territory, on an arm of the Banjar, about 14 m. above its BANG-PA-KUNG, a river, Siam, having its sources in mouth. The houses, being exposed to daily inundations of the the mountains which separate Siam from Cambodja, lat. 14 45 N. ; Ion. 102 15 E.; whence it flows in a S.S.W. direction towards the Gulf of Siam, into the N.E. corner of which it falls near Bang-pa-soe, lat. 13 30 N.; Ion. 101 7 E. Its entire length is about 200 m., and in size it is said not to be inferior to the Menam. BANG-PA-SOE, a tn. Siam, cap. of a dist. fertile in rice and sugar, near the mouth of the Bang-pa-Kung; lat. 13 30 N.; Ion. 101 13 E.; 47 m. E.S.E. Bangkok. It is a con siderable town, containing several thousand inhabitants, and surrounded with a wooden stockade. BANGUEY, a small isl. in the E. seas, near Balamban- gan lying off the N. extremity of Borneo ; lat. 7 19 N. ; Ion. 117 6 E.; abounds in turtle. BANHAM, par. Eng. Norfolk; 3710 ac. Pop. 1165. BANHO, a tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Beira-alta, dist. of, and about 10 m. from Viseo; on the Vouga, which is here crossed by a fine stone bridge of 10 arches. It has thermal springs, which were used by the Romans, and are so copious as to be capable of turning a mill. Pop. 650. BANIAK. See BANJACK. BANIAS. 1, A vil. Syria, near the source of the river Banias, a tributary of the Jordan, 47 m. S.W. Damascus. This place, once the important city of Paneas, is now mean and insignificant, though many existent ruins, amid the finest scenery, attest its past grandeur. The relics of its Saracenic citadel, which once crowned the adjoining hill, still include foundation walls 10 ft. thick. (Robinson s Researches in Pales tine.) 2, A small tn. Syria, coast of, and 53 m. N. Tripoli ; with ruins of ancient Baneas. BANJACK, BANIAK, or BANJKH, an island group, Indian Archipelago, W. coast, Sumatra, 16 in number, yielding nothing but birds nests and trepang; lat. (S.W. island, W. point) 2 8 N. ; Ion. 97 14 E. (R.) The principal island, Ban- jack, from which the group is named, lies opposite the mouth of the river Singel, and is about 18 m. long by 7 broad ; lat. (S. point) 2 2 30" N.; Ion. 97 15 E. BANJARMASSIN, BANJERMASSINO, or BANDJIRMASING [from Bandjar, inundation, Massing, frequent; or, according to others, Banjer, water, tlassin, salt], once an extensive empire occupying the S.E. corner of Borneo, upwards of 350 m. long and 270 broad, now all included in the Dutch province of the S. and E. coasts of the island. The supremacy over this extensive tract has been ceded to Holland from time to time, so that now the Sultan of Banjarmassin reigns over only a small portion of his former empire, and even in governing that remnant, which he does in a manner absolutely, he owns the Dutch as his suzerain. Banjarmassin, as arranged by treaty of 1846, comprehends the tract of country bounded W. by the river Banjar or Barito, and Bekoompai ; E. by the Mcratoos Mountains, the loftiest summit of which is 5905 ft. high. The two boundaries converge and unite N. at Mount Loeang, about lat. 1 S.; Ion. 115 45 E., and S. about 8 m. S.W. Martapoora; area, estimated at 5946 sq. m. The Sultan resides in Martapoora, about 17 m. S.E. the town of Banjarmassin, which is the seat of the Dutch governor. The country appears to be generally flat, large t the river, are built on piles, elevated 3 ft. above the level of the marshy ground, and communicate with each other by means of a plank, which serves the purpose of a street. A 1 number of the houses are built on rafts, the front nex river being used as a shop or stall on which wares are exposed for sale. On market-days, the water is covered with skiffs, having a single individual in each, moving about selling vegetables, &c. The people are continually on the river, all necessaries being purchased at these floating markets, and all business being done on the water. In every respect it is a floating town, possessing neither carriages nor horses; the only animals reared being pigs, goats, ducks, geese, and fowls. The houses of the European functionaries, the government buildings, and the fort, are built partly of stone and partly of wood. The fort Tatas is surrounded with palisades, and contains the resident s house, the magazines, and barracks. Exports: pepper, benzoin, bezoar, ratans, dragons blood, birds nests, iron, and straw mats, very artistically made ; and imports : rice, salt, sugar, opium, coral,Chinese porcelain, silk, cutlery, gunpowder, &c. The navigation of the Banjar is ob structed by a bar at its mouth, in lat. 3 32 S.; Ion. 114 42 E. (R.), on which there are 11 to 16 ft. of water at high tide. BAN JOE MAS, a dist. or prov. and tn Java. The DIS TRICT lies near the centre of the island, between Ion. 108 35 and 110 E., and has a sea- 1, towards the Indian Ocean, of about 35 m. It is chiefly of volcanic formation ; consists in greater part of an extensive valley, watered by numerous streams, and is one of the richest and most fertile provinces in Java ; producing rice, Turkish wheat, sugar, coffee, indigo, &c. The climate, especially on the S. coast, is very change able ; still Banjoemas is not esteemed unhealthy. Pop. 316,063. The TOWN, cap. of prov., lies 22 m. from the coast, at the opening of the valley above referred to; lat. 7 33 S.; Ion. 109 20 E. It is tolerably well built, is the residence of the governor, and contains a fort and garrison. The inhabit- ts carry on a considerable trade, and are extremely frank d hospitable. Pop. 9000. BANJOEWANGI, a tn., E. coast of Java, prov. Bezoeki, cap. of dist. of same name, on the Strait of Bali. It has a fort, and only one stone house the governor s residence. It s an exceedingly unhealthy place. The lofty mountains land ward prevent the wind from clearing the atmosphere, so that the heat is very great. In the vicinity are several volcanoes ; the loftiest, Idjeng, about 15 m. N. W., is 10,170 ft. high. The DISTRICT is the most E. portion of Java, and in greater part uncultivated, and covered with wood. A range of lofty ountains, several of them active volcanoes, shut it out from the rest of Java. The soil, mixed with lime, is naturally so fertile, that this is esteemed the most beautiful district in the ! sland, but, at the same time, one of the most unhealthy. It was formerly used as a place of banishment; the convicts being employed in clearing the ground of trees, and in bringing t under cultivation. The coffee raised here is esteemed equal to Mokha ; and many other products are of the greatest excel lence. On the coast, near the capital, are some pearl-fisheries. Hanjoewangi was formerly a small state, governed by its own chiefs, under the protection of the Prince of Bali. BANKA 319 BANTAM BANKA. See BANCA. BANKEL, an isl. in the Asiatic Archipelago, at the entrance into the Bay of Tolo, E. coast, Celebes ; lat. 2 20 S. ; Ion. 122 50 E. (R.) BANKS S ISLANDS. 1, A group of islands in the 8. Pacific Ocean, about lat. 13 53 S.; Ion. 168 45 E. (R.), named after the celebrated botanist, Sir Joseph Banks, as have also been various other islands, points, capes, peninsulas, straits, &c., in different parts of the world. 2, A group of islands in Spencer s Gulf, S. Australia, lat. 35 18 S. ; Ion. 136 55 E. (R.) 3, An isl. in Torres Strait, in lat. 10 12 S.; Ion. 142 19 E. (R.) 4, Cape (West}, S. Australia, Bonny Land; lat. 37 53 S. ; Ion. 140 24 E. (R.) 5, Bantes Land, British America, Arctic Ocean, the westernmost land seen by Parry; lat. 74 N.; Ion. 1 17 W. 6, Banks s Peninsula, New Zealand, S.E. coast, isl. New Munster; lat. (extreme point) 43 54 S.; Ion. 173 1 E. (R.) 7, Banks s Strait, the channel formed between the N.E. end of Van Diemen s Land and the Furneaux Islands. 8, A bay on the W. side of Albemarle Island, one of the Galapagos group, S. Pacific Ocean; lat. 9 S.; Ion. 91 30 W. 9, A cape, isl. Baranov, King George III. Archipelago, Russian America. BANMO. See BHAMO. BANN (UPPER and LOWER), two rivers in N. of Ireland. The first rises in a plain called the Deer s Meadow, and some times the King s Meadow, in the mountains of Mourne, co. Down, about 8 m. E. Newry. After flowing a distance of 38 m., in a N. direction, it falls into Lough Neagh, near the Ban-foot ferry, in co. Armagh. It is navigable by boats of 50 tons burden. The Lower Bann is the outlet of Lough Neagh. It runs past Toome, and expands into Lough Beg, winding through a rugged country ; and afterwards flowing by Port- glenone in Antrim, and Kilrea in Londonderry, forming the boundary of the two counties ; passing Coleraine, it falls into the Atlantic Ocean, 4 m. below that town, after a course of nearly 40 m. A bar at its mouth renders the navigation at the entrance to the river difficult in rough weather; but, on ordinary occasions, vessels of 200 tons can proceed as far up as Coleraine bridge. At that town occurs a fall of the river, called the Salmon Leap, and above it are one or two rapids. By means of the Newry navigation, the Upper Bann is made subservient to the opening of a communication from Lough Neagh to the Irish Sea; and, if the Lower Bann were rendered navigable throughout, a safe communication would be opened from the Irish Sea to the Atlantic. B^NNA, a river, S. Guinea, having its sources in a mountainous region, about 80 m. from the coast. It flows in a W.S.W. direction, and falls into the sea in about lat. 3 30 S. BANNALEC, a tn. and com. France, dep. Finistere, 19 m. E. Quimper; noted for its wrestling-matches, held an nually in September, and which attract multitudes of specta tors. The Breton wrestlers are celebrated for their strength, and scarcely less so for the singularity of their costume. A considerable trade is done here in cattle, horses, and poultry. During the wars of the League, a bloody battle was fought under the walls of Bannalec, between the leaguers and the royal trrops. Pop. 4372. BANNINGHAM, par. Eng. Norfolk; 770 ac. Pop. 329. BANNOCKBURN, a vil. Scotland, co. of, and 2 m. S.E. Stirling, on both sides of the Bannock, which divides it into two parts, called, respectively, Upper and Lower Bannock- burn. It is amply supplied with water, and both the private dwellings and public works are lighted with gas. It has three churches (Established, Free, and United Presbyterian), and four schools, well taught, and well attended. Bannockburn has been long celebrated for its woollen fabrics, consisting chiefly of tartans, tartan shawls, carpets, and hearth-rugs. All the tartan worn by the Highland regiments in the British army, has been made here for the last half century. The chief kinds of carpeting are Brussels, three ply, and Venetian. In Bannockburn moor, not far from the village, is an extensive coal-work, employing upwards of 100 workmen, who bear a high name for intelligence and moral character. A school has been established for the miners children. This village, however, is still more celebrated for the decisive battle of the same name, fought in its vicinity, between the English forces under Edward II., and those of the Scotch under Robert Bruce, by which the independence of Scotland was fully and finally secured, the former having been defeated with great loss. This memorable battle was fought on Monday, June 24, 1314. The English army amounted to 100,000 men, the Scotch to about 30,000. The best authorities represent the loss of the English on this occasion, in the battle and pursuit, to have been 30,000 men ; while that of the Scotch is alleged to have been about 8000, An interesting memorial of the conflict still remains at a short distance S. W. from the village of St. Ninians, on the position occupied by the Scottish army. This is a large piece of granite, with a hole in it, in which was planted the Scottish standard, called Bored Stone, from its having been pierced or bored for the reception of the pole of the standard. It is now protected by an iron grating from the depredations of the relic-hunter. Pop. 1987. BANOLAS, a tn. Spain, Catalonia, prov. of, and 10 m. N. by W. Gerona ; tolerably built ; has four squares, a parish church, chapel, town-hall, hospital, Latin, and two other schools, and three public fountains. The inhabitants manu facture cotton fabrics of all kinds, oil, and paper ; but most of them are engaged in agriculture and cattle-rearing. Three annual fairs are held. Pop. 4600. BANOS [baths], by itself, and with affixes, the name of numerous towns and villages in Spain, of which the following are the most important: 1. Banos, a tn. Andalusia, prov. of, and 24 m. N. by E. Jaen ; on the skirt of the sierra Morena ; has indifferently-built streets, steep, but well paved ; a parish church, several chapels, a school, hospital, storehouse, and cemetery. The inhabitants are employed in agriculture and cattle-rearing. In the vicinity are mines of antimony, and thermal springs ; from the baths attached to which last, the town derives its name and importance. Pop. 1770. 2, Banos de Cerrato, or de rio Pisuerga, a tn. Leon, prov. of, and 6 m. S. Palencia, between the rivers Carrion and Pisuerga. It is ill built, has a small square, handsome Gothic parish church, chapel, townhall, prison, school and storehouse, and cemetery. Near it are baths, esteemed efficacious in various disorders. Pop. 272. 3, Banos de Ebro, a tn. Old Castile, prov. of, and 15 m. W. by N. Logroiio, r. bank, Ebro ; tolerably well built, and possessing a church, townhouse, prison, school, and storehouse. The baths are much frequented in the summer season for cutaneous affections. Pop. 331. 4. Banos, a vil. Estremadura, prov. Caceres, 30 m. W. Palencia, at the base of the hills which divide Estremadura from Leon. The baths are much resorted to for rheumatic complaints. Pop. 1636. (Madoz.) BANSBEREA, a considerable tn. Hindoostan, prov. Bengal, 1. bank, Hooghly, and 3 m. N.W. the town of that name. Within its limits are comprised two adjoining villages ; and near it, to the N., are ruins of stone buildings of Maho metan structure. BANSWARRA, a tn. Hindoostan, dist. of Bagur, prov. Goojerat, cap. of a small native state, under British protection, 117 m. N.N.E. Baroda; lat. 23 34 N. ; Ion. 74 32 E. It is an agreeable place, surrounded with gardens, and contains some handsome temples, and a respectable bazaar. At a short distance from the town is a pool of water, with a stately flight of steps, overhung by palms, peepuls, and tamarind- trees ; and beyond it, on the crown of a woody hill, are the towers of a large castle, formerly the palace of Banswarra. BANTALLAN, an isl. Indian Archipelago, one of the allest of the Philippines, at the N. entrance of the strait between the islands Negros and Zebu; lat. 11 N.; Ion. 123 20 E. BANTAM, or BATAN [rebellious people], a prov. Java, occupying the whole W. end of the island ; bounded, N. by the Java sea, W. by the Strait of Sunda, and S. by the Indian Ocean, about 88 m. N. to S. in its greatest length, and as much in its greatest breadth. It is of very irregular outline, Cape Java or Java Head forming a high rocky peninsula, and is indented by the extensive bays of Bantam, Pepper, Wel come, &c. The coast, in many parts, is difficult of access, but verywhere it abounds with fish. Bantam, inland, is moun tainous, and has several extinct and two active volcanoes, Pulo Sarie, and Karang ; the latter, the loftiost summit in the province, is 6069 ft. high Many of the mountains are ooded to the top, and among them warm sulphurous springs are numerous. The N. part of the province is flat, in some places marshy, in others sandy, and in many insalubrious. Health is supposed also to be injured, on the S. coast, by the strong winds from the Indian Ocean. The climate of BANTAM 320 BAR-LE-DUC the interior mountainous country is bracing and healthy, in proportion to the elevation. Here the thermometer does not rise so high, and is much more steady than on the coast, where sudden and great changes of temperature are frequent. Bantam, though fertile, is less so than some of the neighbouring provinces; and its fruits are not esteemed so highly as those of Batavia. Pepper was long the principal article of culture; but now, rice is the main article of pro duce, for the raising of which the numerous marshes through out the province render it peculiarly well adapted. Coffee, cotton, indigo, and sugar, are also extensively cultivated ; batatas and cocoa-nuts are produced in great quantities, and tobacco to a small extent. The rearing of cattle, buffaloes of large size, and goats, is a principal means of support ; the latter are sent extensively to the market at Batavia. Of wild animals, tigers, rhinoceroses, serpents, and apes, are plentiful ; and pigs are superabundant. Though spirited in hunting the tiger, the inhabitants are effeminate, voluptuous, and jealous in the highest degree ; false, revengeful, and indolent. Still they manufacture coarse cotton cloths, striped and lozenge figured, much esteemed as an article of dress, and extensively sold to the natives of the interior, and to the neighbouring islanders. They prepare, also, yarn from the fibres of the pine-apple, pottery-ware, excellent mats of bulrushes and bamboos, and fine chalk, extensively used by Europeans throughout the Indian Archi pelago for plastering and whitewashing houses, and by the natives themselves, for various purposes. The religion is Islamisin. The principal towns are Bantam (the capital), and Serang. Bantam at one time formed an independent kingdom, under a sultan of her own ; and though, from the time the Dutch obtained full supremacy in Java, they held a certain sway over it, still it was not till the beginning of the present century that it was incorporated formally with their posses sions, and placed directly under their government, the then reigning sultan being banished to Amboina. Pop. (1838), 3(52,242. (Van der Aa.) BANTAM, an old and celebrated tn. Java, cap. former kingdom, and present prov. of same name. It is beauti fully situated on the bay and river of the same name, and hacked by lofty picturesque mountains ; lat. 6 1 42" S. ; Ion. 1 06 1 42" E. (K.) The river Bantam divides into three arms ; the centre one of which, not very deep, passes through the town, the other two bounding it right and left. The houses, chiefly of reeds plastered with clay, roofed with leaves, and each one surrounded by a bamboo enclosure, and thus separ ated from one another, are so embosomed among cocoa-nut trees -that it is somewhat difficult at first to suppose one s self in a town. The Sultan s palace, and the Dutch forts Spel- wijk and Diamant are in ruins ; and the only building of note is the mosque or temple, surrounded by a lofty wall, and adorned with a small tower or minaret. In the \V. part of the town is the Chinese quarter ; and beyond it, at some little distance, are situated the dwellings of the Europeans. To wards the shore, fishermen live in miserable huts, and behind them are some salt-pans. In consequence of the numerous mud banks on the shore, and the pent-up position of the place, Bantam is one of the most unhealthy spots in Java, frequently being the whole day so enveloped in thick mist, that nothing can be seen from the roads but the mere outline of the bay. A few miles from the town the atmosphere is found to be quite clear. Bantam is one of the oldest and most famous towns in the East, and, at one time, was the principal mart of the Dutch ; but its trade has now been transferred to other channels. It was at one time 2 m. long, but, by fire, as well as the loss of trade, it has been reduced both in size and appearance. The BAY is about 8 m. E. to W., by about 5 or 6 m. N. to S., from the island of Panjang, at its mouth, to the town of Bantam. Several islands are scattered over its surface, of which Pan jang is the largest. Formerly the bay was deep and the anchorage good, and it was frequented by numerous and large vessels, but, from the increase of the mud deposits, it has become much shallower, so that even small vessels reach the town with difficulty. (Van der Aa.) BANTKY, a seaport tn. Ireland, co. Cork, at the head of Bantry harbour, near the N. end of Bantry Bay, E. side, 64 m. W.S.W. Cork; lat. 50 4(y 48" N.; Ion. 9 27 12" W. (R.) It consists of two parallel streets, irregularly and ndifferently paved; some good houses, but the greater portion squalid huts, imparting to the town altogether a very mean ap- jearance ; and contains a parish church (a plain modern build- ng), a R. catholic chapel, and a Wesleyan meeting-house. It las little trade, and no manufactures, although it had formerly a considerable amount of both. The scenery around it is of most picturesque description. Pop. 4082. The BAY, remarkable at once for its natural beauties, and its natural advantages, although the latter are turned to little account, s large, safe, and commodious for vessels of any size. The water is deep close to both shores, no rocks or shoals in the way but such as may be easily avoided, and the stream of tide is scarcely sensible in any part of it. The points of land Forming the entrance into Bautry Bay are, Crow Head on the N.W , and Sheep s Head on the S.E. ; the latter in lat. 51 33 N.; Ion. 9 27 4" W. BAN WELL, vil..& par. Eng. Somerset; 4970 ac. P. 1819. BANYA-FELSO, a mountain village, Hungary, circle, Thither-Theiss, co. Szathmar, 5 m. E. Banya-Nagy. It con tains a parish church (R. catholic), a Greek, and a Reformed church. Pop., consisting of mixed races, 4720. BANYA-NAGY [anc. Rivuli Dominanim], a mountain tn. Hungary, co. Szathmar, 93 m. E. Debrecsin, and not far from the borders of Transylvania. It has gradually risen from a mere mountain village to the rank of a town, and carries on a considerable trade in wine, fruit, arid earthen ware. The inhabitants suffer much from a want of good water, though there are springs in the neighbourhood which, it is said, might be brought into the town at very little cost. Four yearly markets are held here. Pop. 5500. BANYU WANG1. See BANJOEWANGI. BANYULS-SUR-MER, or BANYULS-LA-MAISO, a vil. France, dep. Pyre ne es-Orientales, arrond. of, and 20 m. E. Ceret, in a small bay formed by the Mediterranean, near the frontiers of Spain. It was a place of some military import ance in the Spanish war, and the scene of several encounters. An excellent red wine, of a deep colour and great strength, called Rancio, from its resemblance to a Spanish wine of that name, and a rich sweet wine, known by the name of Grenache, are grown in this district, which, in addition to its wines, has also a trade in grain. Pop. 1357. BAOL, a state of W. Africa, Senegambia, having the state of Sin on the S., of Kayor on the N., the Jaloff territory on the E., and the Atlantic on the W. Its N. boundary is about 35 m. S.S.E. Cape Verde, the parallel of 14 3l>" N. passing nearly through its centre. BAPAUME, a tn. France, dep. Pas-de-Calais, 14 m. S.S.E. Arras, regularly built, and fortified after plans of Vauban. The inhabitants were formerly obliged to use water of bad quality, but, in 1723, an artesian well was sunk in the vicinity, and an abundant supply obtained. Fine woollens and calicoes are made here, and cambric is extensively manu factured in the vicinity. Bapaume has also spinning-mills, saltworks, soapworks, and tanneries. Pop. 2973. The name of a large manufacturing village in the neighbourhood of Rouen, on the top of the long and steep hill of Caiitalen, is pronounced in the same way, but spelled Bapeaume. BAPCHILD, par. Eng. Kent, 1080 ac. Pop. 338. BAR, a tn. Ilindoostan, prov. Bahar, presid. Bengal, r. bank, Ganges; lat. 25 28 N.; Ion. 85 50 E. It is meanly built, but is of large extent, and has a considerable trade. Pop., including Masurgunge, 26,000. BAR [formerly Ii6w], a tn. Russia, gov. Podolsk, 68 m. N.E. Kamenetz, on the Rdw. It is defended by a citadel, built on a rock, and contains several churches, and a mon astery. Bar is famous for the confederation, formed here Feb. 29, 1768, by the Polish nobles, Pulaski, Potocki, and Krasinski, against the Russians. Pop. 3000. BAR-LE-r>uc, or BAR-SUR-OKNAIN, a tn. France, cap. dep. Mouse, 125 m. E. by S. Paris. It was formerly fortified, and had a castle, but which, with the fortifications, is now in ruins. The modern Bar is composed of an upper and a lower town. The former, situated on an eminence, on which it rises in the form of an amphitheatre, is the aristocratic district. It commands a fine view, is well built, and has several elegant mansions. The lower town extends into the valley traversed by the Ornain, which is here crossed by three stone bridges. It is a busy active place, with many shops, manufactories, BAR -SUR- AUBE 321 BARBADOS warehouses, and places of business. The streets are wide, and well laid out; in particular, those of Rochelle and the Capuchins, which are lined with a double row of lime-trees, but the public buildings are of an inferior description. The church of the upper town contains the monument of Rene de Chalons, Prince of Orange, who was killed in 1544, at the siege of St. Dizier. It consists of an altar of black marble, into which a white marble skeleton, of almost hideous appear ance, has been inlaid, and was executed by Richier, a pupil of Michael Angel o. The chief manufactures are cotton yarn, cotton and woollen stuffs, printed calicoes, and coloured hand kerchiefs. The preserved fruits and confectionary, as well as the wines of Bar, are in great repute. In the environs are ironworks and stone quarries. Fir and oak planks are also prepared, and sent to Paris. Pop. 12,673. BAK-SUR-AUBE [Bar rum ad Albam], an aric. tn. France, dep. Aube, 29 m. E. Troyes, agreeably situated, r. bank, Aube, here crossed by a bridge; at the foot of the St. Germain moun tain, in a valley, surrounded with picturesque hills covered with vineyards. In general it is badly built, and the streets inconveniently laid out. It has two ancient churches, one of which is of large dimensions, and an hospital, founded in the 1 1th century. On the neighbouring mountain of St. Germain are the remains of a camp, said to have been occupied by Attila. Calicoes, waxcloths, nails, brandy, and vinegar are manufactured here ; and a considerable trade is done in corn , wine, wood, hemp, and wool, is embarked on the Saone, and forwarded to Lyons and the S. of France. In 1631, above three-fourths of the inhabitants of Bar-sur-Aube were carried off by the plague. In 1814, a hotly contested action was fought here between Napoleon and the allies. Pop. 4134. BAR-scR-SEiNE, a tn. France, dep. Aube, 19 m. S.E. Troyes, r. bank, Seine, which is here a small limpid stream, j and is crossed by an elegant stone bridge. It is walled, well built, and very clean, with streets regularly laid out ; and has manufactures of paper, cotton, hosiery, cutlery, and some | tanneries. Its principal trade is in corn, wine, brandy, hemp, wool, and leather. Pop. 21G2. BARABA, a steppe, Siberia, govs. Tobolsk and Tomsk. It is a vast plain, formerly a sea, between the rivers Irtish and Obi, which constitute its N., W., and E. boundaries, while the Altai Mountains bound it on the S., about 400 m. in length, and about 300 in breadth. This great expanse of flats is full of s\vamps and salt lakes, but is in many parts fertile; and a considerable portion has been brought under cultivation by colonists settled there by the Russian Government. Bears and wolves abound, as well as domestic poultry and cattle. The horses are small, but so vigorous and nimble, that there is no part of Siberia where one is conveyed from place to place with such celerity as here. (Cochrane s Journey through Russia and Siberian Tartary.} BARACOA.-l, A harbour, N.E. end of Cuba; lat. (entrance) 22 20 50" N.; Ion. 74 21 W. The opening is clear, but exposed to heavy swells. 2, A tn. situated on the S.E. point of the harbour, and between the two anchorages of Baracoa and Molasses*beach. It is inhabited chiefly by pilots. BARAHAT, or BAUAMATII, a tn., N. Hindoostan, cap. Gurwal ; lat. 30 45 N.; Ion. 78 22 E.; on the N.W. bank of the Ganges ; once a place of some importance, afterwards an insignificant village, but again rising into importance ; n station for pilgrims visiting Gangoutri. BARAITCHE, or BERAITCII, a tn. and dist. Hindoostan, prov. Oude. The town stands in a pleasant situation, 64 m. N.E. _Lucknow, 68 m. N.W. Oude; lat. 27 38 N. ; Ion. 81 35 E. It is a place of great antiquity, and is described by Abu Fazel, in 1582, as a large city. The N. part of the district is covered with dense forests ; but towards the river Goggra, the country is open, fertile, and tolerably well culti vated. Many of the old Patan race are found scattered over the district, and one of their chiefs has still the title of Khan of Baraitche. BARANCA (NUEVA), a tn. New Granada, at the junction of the Mahates with the Rio Magdalena, 45 m. S.E. Carta- gena. It is a thriving place, and the point of embarkation of goods and travellers from Cartagena going up the Magdalena, and of debarkation for those coming down that river. BARANELLO, a tn. Naples, prov. Sannio, 5 tn. S.W. j Campo-Basso. Pop. 2663. VOL. I. BARANYA, one of the best peopled counties of Hungary, forming part of the circle beyond the Danube, and lying between that river and the Drave. It has an area of nearly 1500 geo. sq. m. The surface is generally flat, and, where under cultivation, very fertile, yielding, in abundance, corn, wine, fruit, and fodder ; but about a half of the whole is covered with forests. Great numbers of cattle are reared. The county is divided into six districts, containing one royal burgh (Fiinf- kirchen), one municipal town, 11 market towns, and 337 vil lages. Pop. 285,000. BARATAR1A, an is!., bay, and lake, U. States, Loui siana, N. coast, Gulf of Mexico. The ISLAND is small, lies at the entrance of Barataria Bay ; lat. 29 N. ; Ion. 90 W. ; is a strong military position, and affords a safe and commodious harbour for merchant vessels and small ships of war. The BAY, 37 m. S. New Orleans, is surrounded by a flat marshy country, and was formerly much resorted to by pirates. The LAKK, a little W. of the bay, is about 30 m. long, and 8 m. broad. BARBA, a river, Guatimala; rises in lat. 14 48 N.; Ion. 84 45 W., and falls into the Caribbean Sea, by two branches, one terminating near Beaver s Island, the other several miles to the E. of it; the embouchures of both being nearly on the parallel of 14 N. Tbe entire course of the river is about 90 m. BARBACENA, a city, Brazil, prov. Minas Geraes, 150 m. N.W. Rio de Janeiro, on the top of two hills in the serra Mantiqueira, about 3500 ft. above the sea; lat. 21 22 S.; Ion. 45 W. It enjoys a mild climate; has broad straight streets, the two principal ones are paved, and have a footpath on either side ; the houses are low, and have gardens in the rear. The parish church is in the middle of a large square, in which the two principal streets meet, and there are, besides, in Barbacena three other churches, a townhall, prison, and primary school. The chief occupations are extracting gold, and exporting large quantities of cotton and coffee to Rio de Janeiro. Pop., tn. and dist., including three parishes besides that of Barbacena, 12,000. BARBADOS, an auriferous river, Brazil, prov. Matto- Grosso, which falls into the Paraguay, on its r. bank, lat. 15 S.; Ion. 57 30 W., after a S.E. course of 120 m. BARBADOS, or BARBADOES, the most E. of the Carib- bee Islands, standing apart from that chain at about equal distances (78 m. E.) from St. Lucia and St. Vincent. Its capital, Bridgetown, situated at the S.W. corner of the island, is in lat. 13 V 12" N. ; Ion. 59 37 W. (it.) Barbados is 21 in. 4.1 BARBADOS 322 BARBADOS in length, 13 in breadth, and 55 in circumference, excluding the sinuosities of the bays, and contains about 166 sq. m., or 106,470 ac. It is nearly encircled by coral reefs, which in some places extend 3 m. to seaward, and render the navigation dangerous. It has no mountains, nor any very elevated sum mits, the highest, Mount Hillaby, being only about 1145 ft. above the level of the sea. The surface, however, is much diversified, and often picturesque, presenting, on a small scale, a succession of valleys, hills, table-lands, cliffs, gorges, and ravines, some of the latter exhibiting perpendicular walls of 150 ft. The low lands are of limited extent, and are confined to the N., S., and S.E. parts of the island. About a seventh part of Barbados consists of tertiary sandstones and limestones, rising to considerable heights ; the remainder is covered by raised coral reefs, divided by vertical walls of coral rock, some of them nearly 200 ft. high, into six terraces, indicating as many periods of upheaval. In the lowest of these terraces, 15 or 20 ft. above high water, Indian hatchets have been found, showing that the last movement had taken place within the human period. With exception of the most minute forms of organic life, marine bivalve and univalve shells, no fossil remains of any kind have been hitherto discovered in the rocks which compose the island. It is not supposed that Barbados possesses any of the precious metals. Bituminous coal is found in many places, and is used as fuel in furnaces. Petroleum, potter s clay, and ochres, yellow and brown, also abound. The clays, which are more or less mixed with sili- cious matter, were formerly extensively used for the prepara tion of earthenware, and the ochres are sometimes employed as paints by the labourers. There are also several mineral springs on the island, but no streams deserving the name of rivers ; although some are so called ; they are mere streamlets, excepting during the tropical torrents, when they become impassable. The productive soil of Barbados is of a reddish brown hue on the higher table-land ; in the low lands it is black, and somewhat reddish in the parts where it is shallow. This black mould is the best suited for the growth of the sugar-cane. It is considered one of the healthiest islands in the \V. Indian Archipelago ; for, being open to the sea breezes, and cultivated throughout, injurious miasmata are unknown. The most delightful months in the year are January and February ; the hottest, July, August, September, and Oc tober, when the heat is extremely sultry and oppressive. The heaviest rains fall in November and December. Bar bados is subject to hurricanes and thunder-storms of the most violent character. One of the most destructive of the former on record, occurred on October 10, 1780, when 4326 persons perished, and the colony was damaged to the extent of 1,320,564 sterling. Land-slips have frequently occurred by which houses and growing trees have completely changed their positions. There are now no woods or forests in Bar bados, these having been all cut down to make way for agri cultural operations. The indigenous mammalia comprise only the Barbados monkey, the racoon, both animals nearly extinct, though formerly so numerous as to be objects of legislative enactment for extirpation ; an indigenous mouse, and two species of bats. The list of birds is also extremely meagre ; the number of indigenous species amounting only to 11, of which the Barbados blackbird is the most conspicuous. The island is now much infested with wild dogs the progeny of the domestic animals imported from Britain, chiefly by the labourers. These have turned wild, and have increased so rapidly as to commit the most serious ravages in the sheep- pens. A dog-law has been introduced for their destruction, but hitherto without entire success. The cattle used in the island are chiefly imported from Porto Rico, Angostura, and the Orinoco ; the horses mostly from the U. States. An ex traordinary mortality, amounting to 25 per cent, prevails here among the latter, causing a large annual importation of these animals. Barbados possesses an unusual portion of cultivable soil. Out of the 106,470 ac. which its area contains, no fewer than 1 00,000 are under cultivation, 40,000 of which are an nually planted in sugar canes; the remainder being either appropriated to provisions, or used as pasture. The cultiva tion of the natural pasture grasses, however, seems to be neglected for that of sugar ; the best descriptions of the former having been eradicated by the progress of the latter, leaving only the hardiest and worst. There is also much room for improvement in some of the agricultural departments. Few things strike a stranger more, on his arrival at Barbados, than the bad state of the working cattle, and seeing 10, and some times 12, weak oxen drawing in a waggon. The same num ber are put to the plough. The cattle are generally of a small breed, and much out of condition, which seems attributable Loth to the scarcity of sufficient food, and to the want of shelter from the sun and rain. (Governor Reid s Report, May 24, 1848.) The account given by Mr. Henry Dummet, .1 native of Barbados, and a large proprietor there, is some what different, and, generally, suggestive of other inferences. In his evidence before the select committee on sugar and coffee planting, in March 1848, he states, That mules and horses are generally employed, and have nearly superseded cattle; that the cultivation of the island, particularly that of the sugar-cane, is perfect, and that improvements of every nature are eagerly sought after and adopted. The staple articles produced in the island for export, are sugar, arrow root, aloes, and cotton. Fustic, logwood, rum, indigo, and to bacco, were formerly exported in considerable quantities, but the cultivation of the last two has been long since entirely abandoned ; rum does not remunerate, and fustic and logwood are now raised in small quantities only. The greatest quan tity of sugar the island ever produced was in the year 1838, when 32,500 hogsheads were exported ; latterly the quantity has been much less, rarely exceeding 25,000 or 26,000 hogs heads, and often considerably below that amount. Notwith standing this great decrease, the general trade of the island, judged of by the following table, appears to be on the in crease : TUA.DE AND NAVIGATION OK BARBADOS. 1840... 1841... 1842... 1843... 1844... 1845... 1846... Commerce. Imports. Exports. ..643,826.. 465,459 ... .. 610,954... 529,210 .. 609,254... 551,984... .. 642,180... 679,802 ... .. 618,028... 681,598 .. .. 682,368... 691,809 ... .. 631,267... 773,405 ... Shipping. Outward. Inward. .. 73,511 tons.... 73,523 tons. .. 78,524 ...80,832 .. 82.571 ...87,875 ..100,281 ...99,869 .. 84,468 ...88,137 .. 93,773 ...94,542 .. 90,310 ...9:5,330 The trade with Great Britain has always been, and continues to be, the most important, surpassing in amount the whole commerce of Barbados with all other parts of the world. More than three-fourths of the exports go to Great Britain, principally sugar molasses, cotton, and aloes ; the remainder to the other W. India islands, the British N. American colonies, the U. States, and various other foreign parts. The chief imports from Great Britain, amounting to more than a half of the whole trade, consist of corn, flour, manure, salted meat, rice, spirits, refined sugar, tea, wines, and miscellan eous goods. All British manufactures, or articles of British growth, are free of colonial duty. The number of vessels belonging to the colony in 1843 was 41, tonn. 1778; of these, 12 were above 50 tons. The revenue of the island, chiefly derived from the exports and imports, from duty on brandy and gin, and from surplus tonnage and crown duties, amounted, in 1845, to 57,751, 2s. 9rf. ; the expenditure, to 52,347, 19s. 3d., of which the expenses of the civil establishment absorbed 34,571, 10s. lOd. Both income and expenditure appear to be on the decrease. The moral condition of the lower classes in the island is far from being satisfactory, although it is said to be improving. This, however, does not appear to be the case from the report of Governor Reid, who, in his despatch of May 24, 1848, says, That the number of marriages contracted, does not show the progress making in this respect (social order), and that marriage is too often con tracted in order to obtain legal powers over younger women. Illegitimate ties with a plurality of women, he adds, are main taining many social evils in the W\ Indies, which Government should strive to diminish. The condition of the agricultural population of Barbados, which is estimated at 45,000, seems, on the whole, to be tolerably comfortable. A labourer s pay, with a cottage, is about lOrf. per day; without, from Is. Q$d. to Is. 3d. nine hours work, but working only five days in the week, Saturday being a holiday, or employed in the culti vation of his provision-grounds, which, favoured by the climate, yield so abundantly, that a single day s labour is sufficient for a week s subsistence. The local government of Barbados consists of a governor-in-chief, assisted by a council. The go vernor has the title of Excellency, and is invested with the chief civil and military authority. The council have, by courtesy, BARBADOS 323 BARBERINO-DI-MUGELLO whilo iu the colony, the title of Honourable, and consists of 12 members, who are appointed by mandamus of the sovereign. The house of assembly is composed of 24 delegates, elected annually, two for each parish, and two for the city of Bridge town, by the body of the people. The governor may, at any time, of his own authority, adjourn, prorogue, or dissolve the assembly. The courts for the administration of civil justice are, the courts of chancery, of common pleas, of exchequer, of ordinary, of admiralty, of error, and of escheat. For the administration of criminal justice, there are the court of grand sessions, and the court of admiralty sessions. An efficient police force was established in the island in 1835. In 1846, the militia of the island amounted to 1733 men, including officers, &c. ; but the usual number is from 1000 to 1100, the year named having been one of political excitement. The island is divided into 11 parishes, and has 11 parish churches, and 32 chapels, chapel-schools, or licensed places of worship. There are in the island, besides, four missionary stations belonging to the United Brethren, the congrega tions of which amount altogether to 3911 individuals; eight chapels and four meeting-houses belonging to the Wesleyan Methodists, the united congregations of which amount to 5380 persons; and a Jewish synagogue, one of the hand somest buildings in the West Indies, although the congre gation numbers only 70 persons. There are but few It. Catholics on the island, but there is a priest stationed there, chiefly in consequence of the military, amongst whom there are always many of that persuasion. The whole church accommodation of the island comprises 13,800 sittings, for a population of about 123,000. Of the schools of the island generally, Governor Reid, in the despatch previously referred to, reports unfavourably. He says, he found them in a very low state, and not at all suited for the wants of the colony ; but that means were being taken for their improvement, and for increasing the number of branches taught. The schools for the education of the poor are 59 in number ; in which, between 3000 and 4000 children are educated. There are also Sunday-schools attached to nearly all the churches and chapels. Some of the public schools are supported by parochial grants ; the children being, in some cases, maintained and clothed, as well as instructed. At the head of the educational establish ments of the island, stands Codrington College, founded by Col. Codrington, a native of Barbados, who died in 1710. The building was begun in 1716, and was finished in 1721. It is beautifully situated on the E. side of the island, at the distance of about 14 m. from Bridgetown ; and has a disposable annual revenue of 3610 ; expenditure in salaries to professors, schoolmasters, &c., 2510. Neither booksellers nor public libraries are so numerous in the island as might be desired ; of the former, there are only two, and of the latter, there were none till 1847, when one or more were established, through the instrumentality of Governor Reid ; previously, however, several libraries belonging to private associations, including a clerical library, were in existence. The benevolent and charitable institutions are numerous, and on a scale highly creditable to the Christian feeling of the inhabitants. The principal institutions of this kind are, the general hospital, opened in 1844, with accommodation for 77 in-door patients, and a lunatic asylum. There are, besides, a largo and com modious alms-house in Bridgetown, and a long list of minor charities, supported by voluntary contribution. There are several literary and agricultural societies, and five weekly newspapers ; one of which, the Barbados Mercury, has existed for upwards of 114 years. There are several small towns on the island, but ihe prin cipal is Bridgetown, which was erected into a city in 1842. (See BRIDGETOWN.) The early history of the island is involved in uncertainty, and the events of the settlement variously related. It would seem, however, to have been known to geographers in the early part of the 16th century, as appears from a manuscript chart of the world preserved in the British Museum, and believed to have been executed previous to the year 1536, where it is shown in correct relative position to the other Caribbee Islands, under the name of Bernados. No settle ment, however, was made in Barbados till 1625, when Sir William Courteen, a merchant of London, established a colony there, although it had been visited 20 years before by an English vessel, called the Olive Blossom, the first ship from that country, it is supposed, that had ever touched its shores. It has remained in the possession of the British ever since the founding of the settlement in 1 625. The population of Barbados is the most dense of any spot of land in the world, and is believed to be fast increasing. At present it is about 122,198, which gives 734-8 individuals to each sq. m., being nearly three times that of England, Wales, and Ireland, and nearly eight times that of Scotland. (Schom- burgk s Barbados; Parliamentary Reports, &c.) BARBARA SANTA. 1, A small isl., channel, and tn. California. The ISLAND is in lat. 33 23 N.; Ion. 119 2 W. (K.) The CHANNEL is the narrow passage between the island of Santa Cruz and the mainland, the S. entrance of which is crossed by the parallel of 34 N. The TOWN lies at the head of the port or harbour of San Felipe, 230 m. S.W. San Francisco; lat. 34 24 12" N.; Ion. 11 9 41 W. (R.) 2, A port, N. end of the isl. Campana, W. coast, Patagonia ; lat. 48 2 S. ; Ion. 75 30 W. (R.) BARBAREEN, a small tn. and seaport, Ceylon, W. coast, dist. of, and 3 m. S. Cultura; lat. 6 28 N. ; Ion. 80 3 E. Most of the houses are covered with tiles. It has manufactures of cordage and iron, is a port of entry and ex port. The principal article of commerce is cocoa-nuts, of which large quantities are produced in the vicinity. (Ceylon Grazetteer.) BARBARY [anc. Barlaria or Bcrberorum Terra], the most N. general division of N. Africa ; bounded, N. by the Mediterranean, E. by Egypt, S. by the Sahara or Great Desert, and W. by the Atlantic Ocean. Its length, from E, to W., is about 2600 m. ; its breadth, from N. to S., varies from about 140 to about 550 m. It comprises the empire of Marocco and Fez on the W., the French colony of Algeria, and the regency of Tunis in the centre, and the regency of Tripoli, including Barca and Fezzan, on the E. Its different parts were known to the ancients under the names of Mauri tania, Numidia, and Africa Proper. Its superficial extent has been estimated at 650,000 to 700,000 sq. m. The name has given rise to some dispute, but is probably derived from Berber, the designation given by the Arabs to its ancient in habitants, who were called Berbers, and whose descendants, forming a large portion of the general population, still inhabit the mountains and valleys of the Atlas. (See ALGERIA, BAKCA, FEZ, FEZZAN, MAROCCO, TRIPOLI, and TUNIS.) BARBASTE, a tn. France, dep. Lot-et-Garonne (Condo- mois), close on the edge of the Geslise, 4 m. from Nerac. The town, which is well built, and has a cotton-mill, numerous vinegar-works, and several cork-factories, lies at the termina tion of the ancient road commonly called Caesar s road or Tenarese, which crossed the river by a bridge, at a point a little below that where a Gothic bridge of seven arches now stands. At one extremity of this bridge stands a large square building with walls of great thickness, and flanked at each of its corners by a square turret, which terminates in a point. This edifice, and the mills attached to it, having been the property of Henry IV., sometimes procured for him the sur name of the Miller of Barbaste. Pop. 1715. BARBASTRO, a city, Spain, Aragon, prov. of, and 28 m. E.S.E. Huesca, in a mountain district, occupying a declivity, at the top of which stand the principal buildings and older parts of the town, and at its base runs the river Nero, crossed by two bridges of stone, and one of wood. The city has straight, well-made, and paved streets, several squares, a cathedral, parish church, college, Latin, and three other schools, townhouse, session-house, ecclesiastical court-house, extensive hospital, two prisons, several convents, with churches attached, two palaces, a theatre, xnd bull-ring. Fn the vicinity are fine gardens and promenades, adorned with luxuriant trees and elegant fountains. It also possesses philosophical, agri cultural, commercial, and other literary and beneficent as sociations. The manufactures of Barbastro have greatly declined, consisting only of hats, hardware, cutlery, shoes, and ropes ; and a little trade is carried on in horned cattle, horses, and mules, reared in the vicinity ; and two annual fairs are held. Pop. 6175. BARBERlNO-ni-MUGELLO, a tn. and com. Tuscany, dist. of, and 16 m. N. by E. Florence, on the Sieve. Straw hats are made here in large quantities. In the vicinity is the royal villa of Cafaggiola, the ancient residence of the Medici. Pop. 9399. BARBEKINO-DI-VAL-D ELSA 324 BARCELONA BARBERINO-Di-VAL-i/ELSA, a tn. Tuscany, prov. of, and 14 m. S. by W. Florence, commanded by a castle. The Uarberiiii family, to which Pope Urban VIII. and several cardinals belonged, derived its name from this town. Excel lent cheese, called di Lucardo, is prepared here. Pop. 725. > BARBENTANNE, a tn. France, dep. Bouches-du-Khonc, ! about 4 m. S. Avignon, at the confluence of the Rhone and Durance, in a wine and fruit district. The town, on the slope of a hill, surmounted by the ruins of an old castle, is j well built, and has a fine promenade. The inhabitants, who | are remarkable for their liveliness and love of dancing, are engaged exclusively in the culture of the ground, and more especially in that of vines and olives. Pop. 1831. BARBEZIEUX, a small tn. France, dep. Charente, 20 m S.W. Angouleme. It is tolerably well built, and pleasantly situated in a wine and grazing district. Trade : principally in agricultural produce. It has also some manufactures of coarse hempen cloth, and extensive tanneries. There is a mineral spring in the vicinity. Pop. 2335. BARBONA, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, prov. of, and 20 m. S.S.W. Padua, 1. bank, Adige, containing a parish church and an oratory. Pop. 2500. BARBUDA, one of the Caribbean or W. India Islands, belonging to Great Britain, 27 in. N. of Antigua, of an oval form, 15m. long, S.E. to N.W., and 8 m. broad; lat. 1733 N.; Ion. 61 43 W. (R.) It is low, level, and fertile, well covered with woods, stocked with deer and various kinds of game. Some dangerous reefs extend off the island. The climate is healthy, and the air so mild and pure, that invalids from other islands resort here for the benefit of their health. The island is a proprietary of Government, the only one in the W. Indies, and belongs to the family of Codrington. It produces, in great abundance, corn, cotton, pepper, and tobacco, but no sugar. It has no harbour, but a roadstead on its W. side. BARBY, a tn. Prussian Saxony, gov. of, and 14 m. S.S.E. Magdeburg, 1. bank, Elbe. It is walled, and well built, has an old castle and three churches, with manufactures of linen and cotton, soapworks, breweries, and distilleries. Pop. 3400. BARBY, par. Eng. Northampton ; 3700 ac. Pop. 640. BARCA, a dist., N. Africa, forming the E. division of the regency of Tripoli ; between lat. 26 30 and 33 N., and from Ion. 20 to 25 30 E. ; length, N. to S., about 500 m. ; greatest breadth, E. to W., about 400 m. All ancient writers, with exception of Herodotus, represent this country as a desert, and this representation was generally believed even in modern times ; but it is now ascertained, that though that part of it next the Libyan desert, which bounds it on the S., is almost barren, the sides and summits of the hills in the E. and N. portions are fertile ; both containing cultivated fields, which yield luxuriant crops, and large tracts of excellent pasturage. A little way inland, an extensive plateau, broken by a range of hills, lies parallel with the coast. The utmost height of these hills does not exceed 1800 ft. The whole of this tract is thickly wofdcd, and covered with excellent soil. Among its vegetable productions are the pine, palm, date, fig, and olive, and a great variety of flowering shrubs, including roses, laurestinas, honeysuckles, &c. The principal cereals culti vated are Indian millet and oats. There are no rivers which contain water at all seasons, but a great number of mountain- torrents, that pour down the ravines to the W., S., and E., and are soon lost in the sands ; amidst which, however, are found the two oases of Aoudjelah and Syouah. The domestic animals, j camels, hor.ses, oxen, assus, sheep, and goats, are numerous, and form the chief wealth of the inhabitants, who are Bedouin Arabs. Beasts of prey, such as hyenas, jackals, &c., and all sorts of noxious insects, also abound. Barca, so called from i the Greek Kanxtt, once contained two wealthy Greek colonies, I one of the same name, and the other called Cyrene ; and was , regarded as one of the chief granaries of the African coast. | The Romans succeeded the Greeks ; and the remains of temples, aqueducts, and other great public undertakings, together with the discovery of numerous Greek and Roman coins, whose inscriptions identify them with the country, show at once the importance to which it had attained, and the amount of civili zation introduced. All this, however, has long passed away, and the Arab is again sole master of the country. The seat of the fabulous Hesperian gardens was placed here. Pop. astimated at 1,000,000. BARCELONA, a prov. Spain, one of the four subdivi- sions of Catalonia, bounded, N.E. by prov. Gcrona, S.E. by the Mediterranean, S. NV. by Tarragon.",, and N.W. by Lerida ; area, 3905 sq. m. It is generally mountainous, especially the N. portion, being traversed by offsets from the Pyrenees ; the highest peak, the Turon de la Loina, on the confines of Gerona, is covered with perpetual snow. The mountains are mostly well wooded, and afford fine timber for ship and house build ing. One of the most remarkable objects in this province, perhaps in Europe, is an enormous mass of rock-salt near Cardona, between 400 and 500 ft. above the river Cardener, and nearly 4 m. in circumference, equally celebrated for the purity of the mineral and for the brilliant effect of the sun s rays on its crystal pyramids. The plains and valleys, watered by the Llobregat, Besos, Tordera, and numerous other streams, all falling into the Mediterranean, are fertile, and yield good crops of wheat, rye, barley, and other grain, fruits and veget ables, with abundance of oil and wine ; and the rich meadows depasture numerous flocks. The climate is variable, cold, and rough in the uplands, but mild, salubrious, and clear in the lowlands, especially on the coast. Game abounds, and wolves and bears are sometimes met with in the wilder parts of the mountains. The manufactures are considerable and various, consisting of woollen, cotton, linen, and silken fabrics ; hats, glass, soap, cutlery, ribbon, earthenware, gunpowder, cocoa, stockings, gloves, and brandy ; tanneries, dyeworks, and bleachfields are numerous. Education in Barcelona is, per haps, better attended to than in any other province in Spain ; benevolent institutions of various kinds, as well as schools for the instruction of the rising generation, being generally found in all towns of any importance. Probably in some measure owing to these advantages, crime (with exception of smug gling) has of late years been considerably on the decrease. Pop. 533,695. (Madoz.) BARCELONA, a seaport tn. Spain, cap. prov. of same name, Catalonia, 312 m. E.N.E. Madrid; lat. (Mole light) 41 22 36" N.; Ion. 2 11 E. (R.) It is semicircular in its general outline, and is both surrounded by walls and defended Plaza del Pnlacic. 6 Governor s Paln-x. c Kxchamr-. d Cathedral. < ni.hop s Palace. </ ( aliil.lo (lowiihounf) h Convent . f St. AuRU! k La RamWa. by a citadel, which forms its N.E. boundary. It is not strong, however, in itself, being commanded by the fort of Montjoi, occupying a height of that name in the 8. The possession of this fort necessarily secures that of the town and citadel BARCELONA 325 BARCELONA (Naw) also. Barcelona is divided into two nearly equal parts by a finely-planted promenade, called La Kambla, running N.N.W. from the shore. The N.W. division forms the old, and the S.W. division the new town, the former consisting chiefly of narrow, crooked, ill-paved streets, while those of the latter are more spacious and regular. To the E. of the town, and S. of the citadel is the extensive suburb of Bar- celonetta, laid out with great regularity, built chiefly of brick, and occupied by sailors, and other seafaring people. Many of the houses of Barcelona itself are also of brick, but most of them, particularly in the new town, are of hewn stone, several stories in height, and of an imposing appearance. In recent times, great improvements have been made. Gas has been introduced, and extensive sewers have been constructed. Fountains of the finest water are found in every quarter, and in addition to La Kambla, already mentioned, the Muralla de Tierra and the Muralla del Mar, form almost unrivalled pro menades. The principal public edifice is the cathedral, which stands in the highest part of the old town. Its origin dates from the first ages of Christianity, but its present form of Gothic architecture appears to belong to the end of the 13th century. It is approached by a lofty flight of steps, and sur mounted by two towers. It is by no means an elegant struc ture, and part of it, particularly its portal, remains unfinished. There are numerous other churches, several of them ancient and handsome, but scarcely entitled to a separate notice. One of the most remarkable buildings of Barcelona is the Palacio de la Deputacion, where the Cortes of the province used to hold their sittings. It is in the Greco-Roman style, and is now called the Audiencia, being occupied by the courts of law. The records of Aragon and Catalonia are kept in it. Some of them are of the ninth century, and the whole collec tion is said to be one of the most interesting of the kind in of cotton and woollen goods manufactured in one year, lia* been estimated at 440,000, and the number of shoes annually exported at 700,000, value 70,290. Its other chief exports are iron, copper, fire-arms, cork, fruit, wines, and brandies. Its principal imports are Baltic timber, wax from Africa, stock fish from Newfoundland in British bottoms, Swedish iron, Styrian steel, Kiga and Petersburg hemp, copper and iron ware from Germany, and various articles of French and Italian manufacture. The following table exhibits the amounts of the exports and imports of the port from 1841 to 1846, along with the number of vessels entered and cleared : Y~ ENTERED. CLEARED. V.-ssuls. Tonnage. Value of Cargo Vessels. Tonnage. Value of Carto. 1841 1842 1843 1844 1845 1846 6134 3GG7 2551 3125 3266 3193 206,730 189,117 224,411 256.121 259,592 537,040 4,433,832 3,651,750 2,672,858 3,121,879 3,065,499 3,267,632 5803 2872 2610 3010 3623 3522 189,873 147,269 225,960 245,090 270,287 756,807 3,968,457 3,007,404 2,076,560 2,180,970 2,221,197 2,389,120 THE CUSTOM-HOUSE, AND STREET OF THE CUSTOM-HOUSK, BARCELONA From Chapuy, L existence. Of modern buildings, the principal are the custom house, the exchange, the theatre, and the prison. The con ventual establishments, though many of them have been suppressed, are still nominally 22. The principal educational establishment is the university, which, though it had almost fallen into complete decay, has lately been revived, and pro mises again to become worthy of its early fame. At present its chief functions are performed by the colleges, in which a complete course in the arts and sciences is given. In con nection with it are numerous schools, in which elementary education is provided for all classes. Theological education is given chiefly in the Seminario Conciliar, while there are several separate establishments specially set apart for the study of medicine. Charitable and beneficent institutions are numerous; the chief being the Casa de Caridad, Casa de Misericordia, and the hospital of the Holy Cross. Among literary institutions, may be mentioned four public libraries and two museums, the Academy of Belles Lettres, and the Royal Academy of Arts and Sciences, &c. Barcelona is the seat of various manufactures, the principal of which are silks, woollens, flowered cottons, calicoes, lace, and shoes; and it also has a foundry for cannon. The amount The trade of Barcelona has greatly fallen off from what it used to be in former times, more especially the decrease of intercourse with Britain is very marked. Half a century ago, many hundreds of British vessels entered the port in the course of a year; in 1841 the number was 57, which, in 1846, had increased again to 90 ; the tonnage, at the same dates, being respectively 7469 and 15,080. Amongst the causes assigned for this decav in the trade with Britain are, the non-importa tion of English hardware, the German being now preferred on account of its greater cheapness ; the falling off of the traffic in Newfoundland fish, which has passed almost entirely into the hands of the Swedes and Norwegians ; and, lastly, an all but total cessation of the cotton trade with England, the Catalonians now import ing their cotton themselves direct from Pernambuco. The main part of the trade now is coasting; the number of Spanish vessels entered in 1846 was 2925; cleared, 327 1 ; and for the preceding years the pro- ^_ portion was similar. The principal trades A m the town are shoemakers, tailors, bra ziers, armourers, cutlers, carpenters, em broiderers, silk-weavers, cabinet-makers, and turners. The port of the city is com modious, but obstructed by a bar, which will not allow of vessels entering that draw more than 12 ft. water ; large ships are, therefore, obliged to anchor outside. On the mole, which is 400 fathoms in length, there are a lighthouse, two batteries, and two redoubts. Barcelona is said to have been founded by the Carthaginians under Hamilcar Barca; hence its name. After the fall of Carthage, the Romans first became its masters, then the Goths, who possessed it, with the rest of Catalonia, till the year 714, when it was conquered by the Saracens. In 805, it was retaken from them, and governed by French viceroys. In 874, it became an independent earldom, and maintained its independence till the annexation of Catalonia to the crown of Aragon in the 12th century. In 1714, it was besieged by the Duke of Ber wick, for Philip V. of Spain, and taken, after a defence equal ling in desperate valour that of Saragossa in more modern times. In 1 786, when the population was a third less than now, the number of monks in the city was 1212 ; of secular priest?, 1216; and of nuns, 654. Pop. (1842), including Barcelonett.i , 12], 815. (Madoz; Parliamentary Papers.} BARCELONA (N E w), a tn. and port, Venezuela, at the mouth of the Neveri, on the Caribbean Sea; lat. 10 10 N.; Ion. 64 47: W. The houses are mostly of mud, ill constructed, and poorly furnished. The streets are unpaved, and, in wet weather, extremely filthy; while, in dry, the dust is intoler able. Its harbour and shipping are protected by a fortress, called El Morro de Barcelona, situated on a hill which rises to about 400 ft. above the level of the sea. In 1847, the number of vessels entered was 27; tonn. 3241; cleared, 39; tonn. 4497. Barcelona is a most unhealthy place, from the BAECELONETA 3 excessive lieat and moisture of the air. The country around, however, is extremely fertile. The chief trade of the town is in horned cattle, jerked beef, and hides; and of agricultural produce, in indigo, annotto, cotton, and cacao. Pop. (1807), 15,000, half whites, and half mulattoes and negroes. BARCELONETA, a tn. Venezuela, 105 m. S.S.E. An gostura, 1. bank, Paraguay. Pop. about 2000. BARCELONETTA. See BARCELONA. BAECELONETTE, a tn. France, dep. Basses Alpes, on the Italian frontier, 30 in. N.E. Digne. It stands in the middle of the valley of same name, here 1 in. broad. The two principal streets, the houses of whicV are lined with a row of arcades, cross each other at right angles, and have smaller streets, laid out in regular order, opening into them. Most of the houses have their windows as much as possible to the S., with very small openings to the N., on account of the extreme severity of the cold when the wind blows from the mountains. At the end of the main street, towards Italy, a handsome square, planted with trees, forms an agreeable pro menade, and round it are placed the barracks, courthouse, prison, and other public buildings. Snow falls heavily in winter, during which, the arcades already mentioned form convenient and sheltered pathways. Like most frontier towns, Barcelonette has suffered by war, having been burnt no fewer j than seven times. It is now, however, perhaps the prettiest of all the French towns in the Alps. Silk, serges, and small ! drapery are manufactured here, and as it is the central point where the inhabitants of the valley dispose of their produce, and purchase their household and other articles, the Saturday market has the appearance of a fair. The valley of Bar celonette formerly belonged to the Counts of Provence, sub sequently to Savoy, but is now in France. The people have always been noted for their love of liberty, and, at the close of the 18th century, when an attempt was made to revive feudal exactions, which had previously been abolished, the measure was abandoned on account of the clamour it created, the mountaineers willingly paying a sum of 1 00,000 livres (about 4000) for exemption from seignorial claims. Pop. of tn. 1905. BAECELLOS. 1, A tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Minho, chief town of dist. of same name, r. bank, Cavado, here crossed by a handsome stone bridge, 27 m. N. Oporto. It is sur rounded by walls, flanked with towers ; and has broad and straight streets, lined with well-built houses; contains two churches, two monasteries, an hospital, a poorhouse, and a grammar-school ; stands in a rich and well-cultivated district, and has several important fairs. Barcellos is said to have been founded by Hamilcar, the father of Hannibal, 250 years B.C. Pop. 3900. 2, A tn. Brazil, prov. Para, r. bank, Rio Negro ; lat. 1 S. ; Ion. 63 W. It has a church ; and, at one time, was the residence of the chief of the district of Kio Negro. Now it is inhabited by Indians, and by a few people, partly fiehermen, agriculturists, and merchants. 3, A vil. Brazil, prov. of, and 100 m. S.S.W. Bahia, advantageously situated on the river Marahu. It has a church and primary school, and its inhabitants are chiefly engaged in agriculture. BAECHESTON-wiTii-wii.LiNGTON, par. Eng. Warwick; 1620 ac. Pop. 193. BAECHFELD, a market tn. Hesse-Cassel, prov. of, and 33 m. N.E. Fulda, r. bank, Werra. It contains a palace, a castle, a church, a stamp-hall, and has four yearly markets. ! Pop. 1600. BAECOMB, par. Eng. Sussex; 5280 ac. Pop. 1028. BAUD, or BAKDO, a vil. and fortress, Sardinian States, Piedmont, 1. bank, Doire, 22 m. E.S.E. Aosta. It stands on a height at the S. entrance of the valley of Aosta, and, in 1800, after a siege by the French, was taken and razed. It has since been rebuilt. BAEDEL, a tn. Japan, Bay of Totomi, in the S.E. of the isl. of Niphon. It is a place of some note, and has botn a con siderable general trade and fishing. BAEDENBEEG, a tn. Rhenish Prussia, prov. of, and 5 m. N.N.E. Aix-la-Chapelle. It has a It. Catholic parish church, and three yearly markets. Coal is worked in the neighbour hood. Pop. 1290. BAEDFIELU, three pars. Eng. Essex: 1, Bardfield [Great], 3400 ac. Pop. 1 120. 2, Bardfield (Little], 1970 ac. p. 375. 3, Bardfield- Soling, or Little Kalinrj, 1510 ac. P. 381. BAEDT, a tn. and com. Italy, duchy of, and 30 m. S. by BAEEILY E. Piacenza, 1. bank, Ceno, commanded by a castle situated on a hill S. the town, erected in the ninth century. In the vicinity are forests of chestnut, beech, and oak, and abundant pasturage for cattle. Two annual fairs are held. Pop. of tn. 720; com. 7314. BAEDIA, an isl. Gulf of Siam, E. coast, Lower Siam, opposite the embouchure of the Tayung; lat. 10 50 N.; Ion. 99 50 E. (R.) It is 20 m. in length, 10 m. in breadth, very lofty, and is separated from the mainland by a channel about 2 m. in width. BAEDNEY, par. Eng. Lincoln; 5490 ac. Pop. 1192. BAEDOLINO, a vil. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, 15 m. N.W. Verona, having a small harbour on the E. margin of Lake Garda, 7 m. N. Peschiera. Near this village, at the famous battle of Rivoli, January 1797, the French under Bonaparte defeated the Austrians under Alvenzi. Pop 1320. BAEUONNECHIA, or BARDONNF.CHE, a vil. Sardinian States, Piedmont, prov. of, and 18 m. W. Susa, on a streamlet of same name, a tributary of the Doria. It has some trade in cattle. Pop. 1000. BAEDOWICK, a vil. Hanover, prov. of, and 4 m. N. Liineburg, on the Ilmenau. It is a very ancient place, and has a cathedral church. The chief employments are field and garden culture and linen weaving, and some trade is done in seeds. Pop. 1400. BAEUSEY, par. Eng. York, W. Riding; 2780 ac. P. 469. BAEDSEY, an isl., N. Wales, co. Carnarvon, in the Irish Sea, at the N. point of Cardigan Bay; lat. 52 45 N.; Ion. 4 48 W. (R.) ; about 2 m. long and 1 broad, called in Welsh. Juys Eulli [the island of the current], from the violence of the stream in Bardsey Sound. On the S.E. side is a small harbour, capable of admitting vessels of 40 tons burden. There is a lighthouse on the island, with fixed and revolving lights, 129 ft. above the sea. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in fishing and agriculture. Pop. 90. BAEDT, or BARTH, a tn. Prussia, prov. Pomerania, on the Binnensee or Gulf of Ribnik, a large lake communicating with the Baltic, 17 m. W. Stralsund; lat. 54 21 N.; Ion. 12 42 E. It is old, but tolerably well built ; has manufactures of soap, candle, and tobacco ; and, by means of its harbour, which is good, and its communication with the Baltic, carries on a considerable commerce. Pop. 4400. BAEDWELL, par. Eng. Suffolk; 3320 ac. Pop. 826. BAEEGES, or BAKREGES [anc. Valletria], a watering- place, France, dep. Hautes-Pyre ne es, 22 m. S. Tarbes, on the Gave de Bastan, celebrated for its hot sulphurous springs. The narrow valley of Bareges contains 18 villages, perched, like eagles nests, high up in the mountains, or on little plateaux, formed by the debris that has fallen from them, and affording a few acres of ground for cultivation. The village of Bareges is composed of a single tolerably spacious street, of about 60 good houses, intended principally for the accommodation of the visitors to the baths. It is a dull-looking place, but some of the wildest scenery of the Pyrenees is in the neighbourhood, and the road that passes up the valley from Pierrefitte and Luz is considered an extraordinary effort of engineering skill. From June to September the place is crowded with invalids, sometimes to the number of 800, besides the soldiers in tho military hospital. The remainder of the year is winter, but snowfalls in summer are not uncommon. There are six springs, varying in temperature from 82 to 111. Their principal ingredient is sulphuret of sodium, with portions of carbonate, muriate, arid sulphate of soda; azote, sulphuretted hydrogen, and animal matter. They seem principally bene ficial in rheumatic complaints, cutaneous affections, ulcers, old wounds, and contractions of the muscles or tendons. The inhabitants are remarkable for their skill in knitting, and many articles of dress are very tastefully got up. The ladies dresses called bartyes, take their name from this place. BAEEILY, a dist. Hindoostan, Delhi, between lat. 28 and 29 N.; bounded, N. by the Kumaon hills, W. by the Ganges, E. and S. by part of the Oude territory, and S., S.W., and N.W. by Furruckabad, Alighur, and Mooradabad; area, 6900 sq. m. The soil is well watered by numerous small streams. To N. of Rampoor, the Kosila is navigable during the rainy seasons, and serves to float down large timber. In summer the heat is intense ; but in winter, with N. winds, the thermometer falls below 30 Fah.. and water freezes in the tents. The surface, in general, is level, and the soil excellent: BAREILY 327 BARI date-palms, bananas, walnut, apple, and pear trees, vines, &c., are plentiful. Sugar and grain are grown everywhere, and, together with rice and cotton, bring the highest prices. The chief imports from the lower provinces are chintzes, salt, coarse sugar, cottons, cutlery, cheap trinkets, and coral beads. From the hilly country, and even from Thibet, goods are transported on the backs of goats. The Rohillas or Patans, of this dis trict, are a tall and handsome race of men, and comparatively fair and well-featured. The tribe of Bungaries (carriers and bullock-drivers), are estimated at 14,000, all Mahometans. Bareily formed part of Rohilcund previous to the conquest of that country, in 1774, by the British. In 1801, it was ceded to the East India Company by Vizier Shuja-ud-Doolah, Nabob of Oude. BAREILY, a tn. Hindoostan, cap. of above dist., on the united streams of the Jooah and Sunkra; lat. 28 38 N.; Ion. 79 20 E.; 131 m. E.S.E. Delhi, and 148 m. N.W. Lucknow. The site of Bareily is elevated and pleasant; the principal street is nearly 2 m. long, and the houses, although mostly of one story only, are well built; in some other parts of the town, the houses are mere huts or hovels. There are here several mosques, and an old fort in ruins ; the civil and military servants of the E. India Company live in cantonments S. of the town, where a new and strong quadrangular citadel, surrounded by a ditch, has been built. The articles manu factured here, wholly by the Mahometans, are chiefly warlike cutlery of all kinds, such as swords, daggers, &c., also bows and arrows ; saddles, and horse trappings ; fine carpeting, em broidery, and jewellery. Bookbinding and engraving; shoe- making, tailoring, tanning aud dressing leather, and all the minor trades from pursuing which the Hindoo is prohibited, are likewise carried on by them. The brazen water-pots of Bareily are much valued, as well as the cabinet-work, painted black, varnished, and adorned with a yellow pigment, in imi tation of gilding. Bareily possesses 131 Persian and Hindoo schools, and some hundreds of seminaries, pretty well attended, besides an English college, teachers of medicine, &c. A native school, under the auspices of the Company, had, in 1841, about 70 Hindoo scholars. Bareily is the head-quarters of a civil establishment and circuit court, to which nine other districts are subordinate. The lands in the neighbourhood are but 8 ft. above the waters of the Ramgunga, and are annually inundated. Pop. (one-third Mahometans), 65,796. (Hamilton s East India Gaa. ; Parliamentary Papers.) BARENTIN, a tn. France, dep. Seine-Inferieure (Nor mandy), r. bank, Austreberte, about 10 m. N.W. Rouen, with manufactures of handkerchiefs and calicoes, cotton, paper, and oil mills. There is also a mill for spinning flax, which has 500 spindles. Pop. 2278. BARENTSWEIL, or BAKETSCHWEIL, a vil. and par., can. of, and 16 m. E.S.E. Zurich, on a height near a stream of same name, which traverses the parish, and is here crossed by a stone bridge. The church is new and handsome, and possesses a fine chime of bells. The greater part of the inhab itants are employed in spinning and weaving silk. Pop. 3462. BARETOUN (AL), [anc. Parcetonium}, a tn. Egypt, on the Mediterranean, on the borders of the desert of Barca ; lat. 31 30 N. ; Ion. 27 30 E. It is now, perhaps, better known by the name of Port Mhaddra or Berek Marsa. Its harbour is good, and enables it to carry on a considerable trade. BARFLEUR, a seaport tn. France, dcp. Manche (Nor mandy), 15 m. E. Cherbourg; lat. 49 40 6" N.; Ion. 1 15 30" W. (R.) It is situated ou the peninsula of Cotentin. in the English Channel, and lias a harbour so small, so encumbered I with rocks, and every way so ill adapted for the purposes of navigation, that the only wonder is, not how it should now have ceased to be, but how it ever could have been, a port of any consequence. Accordingly it deserves notice at present solely on account of interesting historical associations. In the 12th century, Barfleur was more frequented than any other port of Normandy ; and, after the Norman conquest, it was the principal point of communication with England, and it was on one of the rocks near the port that William, only son of Henry I., was shipwrecked in 1120, and perished, with several members of the royal family, and 140 young English iioble- naen. In the 13th century, Normandy was annexed to France, when the trade of Barfleur was transferred to Cherbourg. In 1346, and again in 1405, Barfleur was pillaged by the English. At the close of the 16th century, the fortifications were de stroyed by command of Henry IV. of France. Small vessels only can now enter the harbour, but there can be no doubt that it admitted vessels of considerable burden during the Middle Ages. It has two lighthouses, with fixed lights, neither of which can be seen from any great distance at sea. The little traffic now carried on is in flax, hemp, butter, oys ters, and fish. Pop. 1185. BARFORD, six pars. Eng.: 1, par. Norfolk; 940 ac. Pop. 417. 2, par. Warwick ; 1490 ac. Pop. 849. 3, Barford (Great), par. Oxford ; 1180 ac. Pop. 370. 4, Barford (Great], par. Bedford; 2830 ac. Pop. 814. 5, Barford (Little), par. Bedford; 1190 ac. Pop. 190. 6, Barford (St. Martin], par. Wilts; 2290 ac. Pop 569. BARFRESTON, or BARSTON, par. Eng. Kent; 3GO ac. Pop. 125. BARGA-DE-GARFAGNANA, a tn. and com. Tuscany, dist. of, and 25 m. N. Pisa, near the 1. bank of the Lerchio. It has a handsome collegiate church, and a powder manufactory. Beautiful jasper is found in the vicinity, and chestnut forests cover the mountain sides. Pop. 7194. BARGE, a tn. Sardinian States, Piedmont, prov. Saluzzo, at the foot of Mount Monbracco ; 1. bank, Grandon, 28 m. S.S.W. Turin. It has a communal college, manufactures fire-arms, and carries on a brisk general trade. Slates are quarried in the neighbourhood. In 1808 it suffered greatly from an earthquake. Pop. 7000. BARGOUZINSK, a tn. Siberia, gov. Irkutsk, cap. dist. of same name, 30 m. above the mouth of the Bargousine, which, after a course of about 200 m., falls into the E. side of Lake Baikal. In its neighbourhood are thermal baths, and the bitter lakes from .which the purgative salt of Siberia is obtained. BARIIAM, three pars. Eng.: 1, par. Huntingdon; 700 ac. Pop. 107. 2, par. Kent; 4480 ac. Pop. 1151. 3, par. Suffolk; 2520 ac. Pop. 576. BARIIOLME, par. Eng. Lincoln; 1230 ac. Pop. 165. BARI, a vil., isl. Sardinia, near the E. coast, prov. Lanusei, 55 m. N.N.E. Cagliari. It is very unhealthy; but has a small harbour, at which some corn and wine are shipped. Pop. 1500. BARI (TERRA m), a prov. Naples; bounded, N. and N.E. by the Adriatic, N.W. prov. Capitanata, S.W. and S. Basilicata, S.E. Otranto; greatest length, from N.W. to S.E., 80m.; average breadth, about 34m.; area, 1290geo. sq. m. In the S. and S.W. it is traversed by an offset of the Apennines; but the province, as a whole, is perhaps the most fertile and best cultivated in the kingdom. It has three lakes, and numerous mountain-torrents; but the only river of the least consequence is the Ofanto ; and even it is almost confined in its course to the N.W. frontier. The principal products are corn, flax, tobacco, cotton, wine, olives, and capers. Large numbers of sheep, goats, swine, and asses are reared. The principal manufacture is salt. Some saltpetre also is obtained. Bari takes its name from its capital. Pop. 426,000. BARI [anc. Barium}, a seaport tn. Naples, prov. and cap. of Terra di Bari ; W. shore, Adriatic, 50 in. N.W. Taranto; lat. 41 7 42" N. ; Ion. 16 52 30" E. (R.) It stands on a small promontory, and is defended by walls and a castle; streets in general narrow, and houses badly built. The cathedral is a handsome structure, with a tower upwards of 260 ft. high. Other public edifices are, the celebrated priory of St. Nicholas, founded in 1087, and still resorted to by pilgrims; the royal lyceum or academical school, with 1 6 professorships of sciences, letters, luw, aud medicine; the college, founded in 1817, for the education of the nobility; the diocesan seminary, several parish churches and convents, an orphan institution, two hospitals, an arsenal, with extensive magazines for grain, and a mont-de-pitte. Ban is the seat of a criminal and civil court, and of an archbishopric, metropolitan to the sees of Bitonto- et-Ruvo and Conversano. It has manufactures of cotton and linen goods, hats, silk, soap, and glass. The aqua stomachlca di Santa- Scolastica, so generally used as a liqueur throughout the kingdom of Naples, is prepared here in great perfection. The port is small, and almost choked up with sand, but the roadstead affords good anchorage-ground. Trade, principally with Venice, Trieste, and the coasts of Dalinatia. Exports : wine, grain, almonds, oil, and cotton, produced in the sur rounding district. Bari, under the Romans, was governed BARIGIANO BARNARD CASTLE by its own magistrates. On the fall of the empire, it passed first into the hands of the Saracens, and afterwards into those of the Northmen, who became masters of Apulia, and fixed their government in this town. It was thrice taken and de- j stroyed, and thrice rebuilt on the same site. Pop. 21,373. I BARIGIANO, a tn. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra I., \ 1 1 m. S.W. Aquila. Pop. 2000. BAR1LE, a tn. Naples, prov. Basilicata, 4 m. S.S.E. Melfi, agreeably situated on a hill. It was founded by a Greek colony of the Lower Empire, and the rites of the Greek church were practised so late as the 17th century. It has three churches. Pop. 3730. BAR1MA, a headland and river, British Guiana. The former is the extreme N.W. point of that territory, on the S.E. side of the estuary of the Orinoco; lat. 8 36 N. ; Ion. 00 40 W. (K.) The river, after a course of about 60 m., almost precisely parallel with the coast, falls into the estuary of the Orinoco a little further up than point Barima. BARJAC. 1, A tn. France, dep. Card, 17 m. E. Alais, at the foot of the Ceveimes ; with a cold mineral spring ; and in the neighbourhood a quarry of excellent stone, for building or sculpture. Pop. 1748. 2, A tn., dep. Lozere. Pop. 1028. BARJALS, a tn. France, dep. Var, 9 m. N.N.W. Brig- nolles. It is well built, and the environs are singularly picturesque. The chief products of Barjals are nongat, a kind of cake, made of almonds and honey, for which there is a great demand ; vermicelli, glue, and earthenware. It has also a refinery of wax, paper and fulling mills, tanneries, and distil leries. Its trade is in oil, brandy, figs, raisins, and olives. Pop. 3181. BARKA. See BUKKA. BARKBY. par. Eng. Leicester; 2290 ac Pop. 849 BARKEHDIEH, a populous vil., W. Africa, Damga country, on the Senegal ; inhabited by a warlike and agricul tural tribe, called Daliankes, whose chief resides here. BARKHAM, par. Eng. Berks; 1450 ac. Pop. 248. BARKING, a tn. England, co. Essex, 1. bank, Ifoding, about 2 m. above its junction with the Thames, and 7 N.E. London ; consisting chiefly of one principal street ; houses mostly of brick, and generally well built ; well lighted, but badly supplied with water. It has a parish church, a hand some structure, with a lofty tower, and containing some ancient monuments; a Wesleyan and an Independent chapel, and a meeting-house belonging to the Plymouth Brethren, a national, infant, and Plymouth Brethren schools, a mutual improvement society, a friendly society, and a parochial lend ing library. No manufactures ; but the fishing trade is carried on to a great extent. There is a convenient wharf at Barking creek, which is navigable to llford for vessels of 80 tons. Pop. (1841), 8718. BARKING, par. Eng. Suffolk ; 3010 ac. Pop. 1879. BARKOUL, or TcniN-Si, a tn. and lake, Mongolia, prov. TV. Kansuh, on the N.N.W. margin of the desert of Gobi. The TOWN is in lat. 43 40 N.; Ion. 94 E. ; a little S.S.E. from the.lake, and about 38 m. N. the important town of Kamil or Hami. Barkoul has a considerable trade in provisions and clothing, and is governed, along with several other towns and settlements around it, partly by Chinese officers, and partly by the chieftains of the various tribes. The country around is cultivated to a small extent. The LAKE is from 10 to 15 m. in length, and about half that breadth. BARKSTON, par. Eng. Leicester ; 2870 ac. Pop. 403. BARKSTONE, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 2080 ac. Pop. 41 3. BARKWAY, a par. and tn. Eng. Hertford ; 5060 ac. Pop. 1291. BARK WITH, two pars. Eng.: 1, Barfa -itli (East], par. Lincoln ; 990 ac. Pop. 255. 2, Earkwith (West], par. Lin coln; 500 ac. Pop. 130. BARLASTON, par. Eng. Stafford; 2340 ac. Pop. 591. BARLAVINGTON, or BARLTON, par. Eng. Sussex; 1710 ac. Pop. 132. BARLBOROUGH, par. and vil. Eng. Derby; 3220 ac. Pop. 804. BARLETTA, a seaport tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Bari, cap. dist. of same name, W. shore, Adriatic, 33 m. N.W. Bari ; lat. (telegraph) 41 19 18" N.; Ion. 16 17 30" E. (K.) It is a fortified place of the fourth class, and is surrounded by a tingle wall. The streets are wide, and well paved ; the houses high (of stone), and in general well built. In the market place is a colossal bronze statue, about 18 ft. high, supposed to represent the Emperor Heraclius. The cathedral is a fine Gothic edifice, the nave of which is supported by antique granite columns. There are several other churches, con vents for both sexes, an orphan institution, a college founded by Ferdinand IV., and a theatre. The harbour is formed by a mole running out from the shore. It admits of small vessels only, but good anchorage-ground is found in the roadstead. The port is defended by a citadel, part of which is falling to ruins, (/lose by is a lazaretto. Barletta has a considerable trade in grain, wine, almonds, and the other productions of the country, which are exported to the different ports of the Adriatic. The Neapolitan Government have some extensive saltworks about 3 in. from the town. The sea-fishery forms an important branch of industry. A great corn-market or fair is held annually in November. Pop. 19,929. BARLEY, par. Eng. Hertford; 2700 ac. Pop. 792. BARLING, par. Eng. Essex ; 1240 ac. Pop. 326. BARLINGS, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 2630 ac. Pop. 352. BARMBY-ON-THE-MOOR, par. Eng. York, E. Riding; 2290 ac. Pop. 475. BARMEN, a manufacturing tn. Rhenish Prussia, circle, Elberfeld, dist. Diisseldorf; situated in the valley of the Wupper, 27 m. N.N.E. Cologne. It is in fact a continuation of the town of Elberfeld, to which it is united by a bridge, and with which it forms one uninterrupted street of 6 m. in length ; and it is composed of an agglomeration of numerous places of different names, now constituted a town. Its situation is healthy and picturesque, but the town itself is dirty, and not prepossessing. The staple manufactures are ribbons and tapes, which are very widely diffused. Silk is likewise manu factured, with cotton and linen fabrics, linen and cotton thread, velvet, lace, steel and plated articles, hardware, chemical products, and earthenware, with establishments for calico- printing, which have long been famous for the excellence of Ihe dye called Turkey-red. The town is surrounded by kitchen-gardens, the cultivation of which employs many persons. It contains four churches, one of which, the Pro testant church, is a very handsome building ; a high school, a deaf and dumb asylum, exchange, two banks, a police court, and a commercial tribunal. The district in which the united towns of Elberfeld and Barmen are situated is the most popu lous, the most industrious, and most thriving in the Prussian dominions. Pop. (1846), 34,932. BARMING, par. En-. Kent; 1210 ac. Pop. 584. BARMOUTH, or ABEBMAW, a small seaport tn., N. Wales, co. Merioneth, 8 m. W. Dolgelly; lat. 52 44 N. ; Ion. 4 2 W.; at the mouth of the Maw or Afou; built on steep and unequal ground, at the foot of a lofty mountain. The houses rise in successive terraces above each other, and are reached by steps cut in the rock. The town is much frequented in summer for sea-bathing ; and some trade is done in flannel and hosiery; and tanning and shipbuilding are also carried on to some extent. Its chief exports are timber, bark, copper, lead, &c.; imports: corn, flour, coals, lime stone, hides, and groceries. It contains several dissenting chapels. Pop. (1841), 1930. BARMSTEDT, a market tn. Denmark, Holstein, co. Eanzau, 19 m. N.N.W. Hamburg. Besides agriculture, the main employment is shoemaking, for export, over Hamburg to America. In the middle of the town is a good market place. Four annual fairs are held, one of which, for oxen, is important. Pop. 1700. BARMSTON, par. Eng. York, E. Riding; 2180 ac. Pop. 254. BARNACK, par. Eng. Northampton ; 4440 ac. Pop. 860. BARNAIIKLY, par. Irel. Cork; 895 ac. Pop. 1183. BARNANEELY, par. Irel. Tipperary ; 21 67 ac. P. 752. BARNARD CASTLE, a tn. and par. England, co. Dur ham. The TOWN is on an eminence rising abruptly from the Tees, 22 m. S.W. by S. Durham. From the principal street, which is about 1 m. in length, two or three smaller ones, and numerous lanes, diverge. The main streets are macadamized in the middle, and pitched at sides with pebbles, and all are lighted. The better class of houses are of freestone, and many of them handsome ; but those of the working classes are overcrowded and ill ventilated. Manufactures: two , extensive thread-mills, ar.d four large carpet-manufactories. BARNARDISTON 329 BARNSTAPLE Barnard Castle has a national school, which was attended, in 1849, by 295 scholars 181 boys, and 114 girls ; a dispensary, and several charitable societies. A well-attended market is held on Wednesdays. The greater portion of the working population are of the manufacturing class, most of them being employed in the thread-mills and carpet manufactories. Their moral condition is represented as being extremely low. The ruins of the CASTLE, which stand between the N. ex tremity of the town and the river, form an imposing object. They enclose an area of about 6 ac. Portions of the walls stand on the verge of a cliff, which rises precipitously from the bed of the river Tees, to the height of 70 ft., commanding an extensive view of the beautiful valley of Teesdale. The castle was originally built about the year 1178, by Barnard Baliol, grandfather of John Baliol, king of Scotland. Pop. (1841), 4452. (Local Correspondent.} BARNARDISTON, or BARNISTON, par. Eng. Suffolk ; 1520 ac. Pop. 217. BARNARD, a group of islands, N.E. coast, Australia, within the Great Barrier Reef, extending in a straggling direction for 6 m.,to the S. of Double Point; lat. 17 40 S.; Ion. 146 30 E., about 30 in. from the shore. BARNAUL, or BARNAULSKOI ZAVOD, a considerable mining tn. Siberia, gov. of, and 230 m. S.W. Tomsk, on the Barnaulska, near its influx into the Obi ; lat. 53 20 N. ; Ion. 83 26 E. It is well built, and contains regular and spacious streets. The chief edifices, besides the churches, one of which is Lutheran, for the use of the Germans employed about the mines, are, the chancery offices for the mines, the command ant s residence, the stores and barracks, and the public mart, all built of wood. There is also a mining school, an observ atory, a public library, and a museum of antiquities and na tural history. It is the seat of the court of directors for the whole of the mines of the Kolyvan line, including the silver mines on the Obi, and the mines of the Altai Mountains. Ex clusively of the lead mines in the vicinity of the town itself, large quantities of that metal are here smelted from the Sme inogorsk or Schlangenberg [Mountain of serpents] mines, and also all auriferous silver ores. There are lime and brick kilns here, a bell-foundry, two tile manufactories, glassworks, and a mint for copper coin. Pop. (1850), 0920. BARNBROUGII, BARNUURGH, or BARNBOROUGII, par. Eng. York, W. Riding; 1770 ac. Pop. 508. BARNBY, two pars. Eng. : 1, par. Suffolk; 1390 ac. Pop. 296. 2, Barnby-in-the-willows, par. Notts; 1690 ac. Pop. 266. BARNBY- UPON DON, or BARNBY-DUN, par. and town ship, Eng. York, W. Riding; 3670 ac. Pop. 629. BARNEGAT INLET, U. States, New Jersey, 70 m. S. New York. On the S. side is a fixed light, in lat. 39 45 54" N ; Ion. 74 7 W. (R.) BARNES, par. and vil. Eng. Surrey; 820 s,c. Pop. 1461. BARNET, CHIPPING, or MARKET BARXET, a tn. and par. England, co. Hertford. The town is 11-f m. N.W. London; pleasantly situated on the summit of a hill, and consisting of one principal street upwards of 1 m. in length. Some of the houses have a respectable appearance, but many of them the reverse ; water scant. It has a church, a venerable structure of the 15th century ; an Independent chapel, a free school, a national school, an hospital for six elderly women, several alms-houses, and other minor charities. Races, and a large cattle and horse fair, held in September. The cattle con sist chiefly of small black cattle from Scotland. Baniet is celebrated for the battle fought near it in 1470, between the Earl of Warwick and Edward IV., in which the former was defeated and slain. A column commemorates the event. Area of par. 1440 ac. Pop. (1841), 2485. BARNET is the name of other three parishes in England: 1, Barnct (East), Hertford ; 1630 ac. Pop. 598. 2, Barmt-Friarn, or Friarn Hornet, Middlesex; 1330 ac. Pop. 84 ( J. 3, Barnet-bylt- Tf We?, Lincoln; 1030 ac. Pop. 679. BARNEVELD, a vil. Holland, prov. Gelderland, 18 m. N.W. Arnhem, in a fertile district surrounded by sandhills, and having a Calvinistic and a beautiful R. Catholic church, some good schools, and an alms-house for okl men and women. It has numerous markets and fairs for horses and cattle. Pop. 1400. BARNEY, par. Eng. Norfolk; 1210 ac. Pop. 276. BARNHAM, three pars. Eng. :- 1, par. Suffolk; 5420 ac. Voi . I. ; Pop. 412. 2, par. Sussex ; 730 ac. Pop. 125. 3, Barn- \ ham-Broom, par. Norfolk ; 1870 ac. Pop. 494. BARNINGHAM,five pars. Eng.: 1, par. Suffolk; 1520 ac. Pop. 508. 2, par. York, N. Riding; 10,930ac. Pop. 600. 3, Barmnyham (Little), par. Norfolk; 1200 ac. Pop. 229. 4, Barningham-Norwood, par. Norfolk; 8H)ac. Pop. 54. 5, Earningham- Winter, par. Norfolk; 860 ac. Pop. 86. BARNOLDBY-LE BECK, par. Eng. Lincoln; 1460 ac. Pop. 292. BARNOLDSWICK, par. Eng. York, W. Riding; G040 ac. Pop. 2<U4. BARNSLEY, a market tn. England, co. York, W. Riding, 12 m. N. Sheffield, partly on the summits, and partly on the slopes of two hills, having three principal streets, generally well kept; houses substantially built of stone, but a good many also of brick ; well supplied with water, and lighted with gas. The only edifices of note, exclusive of the churches, are the commercial buildings, including the post-office ; the commer cial news-room, mechanics news-room and library, the latter a substantial Ionic structure; and the theatre, now converted into the mechanics hall. There are two churches in Barns- ley, one of which, St. George s, is a handsome building, in the decorated Gothic style ; and nine chapels for various re ligious demominations, including Wesleyans, Independents, Baptists, R. Catholics, &c.; also a Friends meeting-house. It likewise has a free grammar, national, two boarding, two public, several day and infant schools, connected with the church and with the various dissenting bodies, and four female seminaries; a mechanics institute, restored in 1847; a church institute, established in 1847; and a Franklin club, composed chiefly of working men. Linen, in a great variety of fabrics, is the staple manufacture of Barnsley. These fabrics include damasks, drills, ticks, huckabacks, sheetings, shirtings, dow- lasses, towellings, ducks, drabbets (a thick and warm fabric), plain and fancy hollands, &c. There are five factories in the town, the largest of which contains 350 looms. Hand-loom weaving is still extensively carried on. The other works are, a wire manufactory, a patent stay manufactory, four iron- foundries, four dyeing establishments, and seven bleachfields. In the vicinity are three stone quarries, a number of coal mines, and several beds of ironstone. The market, which is ! toll-free for all kinds of grain, is on Wednesday ; and there is also a market for provisions on Saturday ; fairs for cattle and horses in May, October, February, and September. In January 1 850, a branch from the Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway, near Wakefield, was opened to this town. Barnsley is improving greatly, and increasing in size and population. Pop. (1841), 12,310; now (1850) estimated above 14,000. (Local Correspondent.) BARNSLEY, par. Eng. Gloucester; 2050 ac. P. 305. BARNSTABLE, a seaport tn., U. States, Massachusetts, cap. co. of its own name, 63 m. S.E. Boston; on a harbour at the bottom of Cape Cod Bay, neatly built, and has a con siderable trade, besides extensive fisheries. There is a bar with 6 or 7 ft. water at the mouth of the bay. Between 50 and 60 fishing vessels belong to the port ; the tonn. of which, in 1840, was 56,556. It has two academies and 22 schools. Pop. (1840), 4301. The COUNTY includes the whole of Cape Cod. The inhabitants depend for subsistence chiefly on cod, mackerel, and other fisheries ; the greater number of the male population are sailors. Pop. 32,548. BARNSTAPLE, a port, market tn., and par. England, co. Devon. The town is situated on r. bank, Taw, where it receives the Yeo, and is crossed by a handsome bridge of 16 arches, 34 m. N.W. Exeter. It has been much improved and enlarged during the present century, and now extends about 1 m. in length, including its suburbs Pilton and New port. It consists of two principal and a number of smaller streets ; the larger of which are generally straight, flagged, paved, well kept, and all lighted; houses mostly of stone, and the more modern well built, supply of water ample. The principal civic buildings are the guildhall, a spacious and handsome Grecian edifice, the new fish-market, the borougli prison and bridewell, and the blue-coat schools. The churches are, the parish church, a large ancient Gothic structure, said to have been rebuilt in 1318, but enlarged and altered at sub sequent periods ; Holy Trinity church, in the perpendicular style, having an elegant tower 133 ft. high; St. Mary Mag dalene, a handsome building, with a tower aaid spire, together BARXSTON 330 BARRA 115 ft. high ; Pilton parish church, an ancient Gothic struc ture with an embattled tower ; and five chapels for Independ- j ents, Baptists, Wesleyans, &c. It has also four large national j schools, several Sunday, private, boarding, and day schools, a grammar, blue-coat, and girls charity school ; an infirmary, dispensary, and several sets of alms-houses, besides a number of minor charities ; likewise a literary institution, established in 1845; a museum, two reading-rooms, a musical society, a farm ers club, and horticultural and agricultural societies. The | manufactures consist of wool stapling, lace-making, malting, paper-making, tanning, shipbuilding, stocking-weaving, brush and rope-making, &c. There are also two potteries ; and in the neighbourhood several serge and blanket-mills. Some of these branches of industry are carried on to a great extent. The trade of the port is considerable, and its foreign trade increasing. The number of vessels registered here for the year ending December 31, 1847, was 89; tonn. 5010. Ves sels entered for the same year, 1032 ; tonn. 46,932 ; cleared, 418; tonn. 21,585. Chief exports: grain, wool, bark, leather, paper, &c. Imports : coals, timber, iron, groceries, spirits, porter, freestone, &c. There are four commodious quays, at which vessels of 100 to 200 tons load and unload ; and the river is navigable for barges and small craft for 3 m. above the town. Barnstaple is governed by a mayor, re corder, six aldermen, and 18 councillors. It returns two members to the House of Commons. Registered electors (1849), 781. Area of par. 109(3 ac. Pop. of tn. (1850) about 11,000. BARNSTON, or BIRNSTON, par. Eng. Essex; 2770 ac. Pop. 197. BARNVILLE-sun-MEK [anc. Crociatonum portus], a small tn. and seaport, France, dep. Manche, 15 m. W.S.W. Valognes. It has an ancient and curious Roman church, and carries on considerable trade in agricultural produce, with Guernsey, Jersey, and Alderney. Pop. 1205. BARNWELL, two pars. Eng.: 1, Barnwell-all- Saints, or King s Barnwell, par. Northampton ; 1680 ac. Pop. 140. 2, Barnwell St. Andrews, par. Northampton; 1740 ac. Pop. 282. BARNWOOD, par. Eng. Gloucester; 1150 ac. P. 383. BARO, a river, Africa, which rises in the country of the Wallegas, S. W. of Abyssinia, near lat. 8 N., in an extensive plateau, in which the Dedhesa, Gandji, Naso, and Gddjeb, all, like the Baro itself, tributaries of the White River or true Nile, have their source. The course of the Baro is not ex plored, but the natives represent it as a very large river, the valley of which is inhabited by Shankalahs, and frequented by herds of elephants. (Geo. Jour. vol. xiii., xvii.) BAROACH, or BIIOACH [anc. Barygaza water of wealth], a tn. Hindoostan, Bombay presidency, prov. Goo- jerat, cap. dist. of its own name, on the Nerbudda [anc. Na- madus], 25 m. from its embouchure in the Gulf of Cambay ; lat. 21 46 N.; Ion. 73 24 E.; 42 m. N. Surat; a poor, mean-locking, unhealthy town, with narrow and dirty streets ; but in the vicinity are numerous dilapidated mosques and mausoleums, indicating its former importance. The river is here 2 m. broad, very shallow, but abounding in fine fish, especially carp. A considerable trade is carried on with Bombay and Surat in raw cotton, grain, and seeds. There is here a pinjrapole or hospital for animals, supported by volun- [ tary donations, and by taxes on marriages, mercantile transac tions, &c. About 1000 are annually raised for this purpose. I Baroach was taken by storm by the British in 1772, and since 1803, along with the district, has remained part of the British dominions. Pop. about 33,000. The DISTRICT has an area of 1600 sq. m., and is one of the most populous and best cul tivated in the W. of India, yielding large quantities of excel lent cottcn. Pop. (one-fourth Mahometans), 229,500. BARODA, a city, Hindoostan, cap. dist. of same name, and of the Guicowar s dominions, and the station of a British resident and a body of troops ; lat. 22 20 N. ; Ion. 73 25 E. ; 240 m. N. by E. Bombay. It stands on marshy ground, 1. bank, j Viswamitra, and is surrounded by a double wall of mud, with round towers at irregular intervals, and several double gates. Two spacious streets, which cross each other at right angles, divide the town into four equal parts. In the market-place is a square pavilion, with three bold arches on each side, and a flat roof, adorned with seats and fountains, and is a Mogul building, like everything else in tliis city having the smallest claim to grandeur or elegance, the Mahratta structures being mean and shabby. Baroda was a large and wealthy town during the reign of Aurungzebe, and is still considered one of the richest cities of its size in India. Here is a stone bridge over the Viswamitra, remarkable as being the only one in Goojerat; and some singular wells with grand flights of steps. Pop. in 1818 estimated at 100,000. The DISTRICT has an area of about 12,000 sq. in.; yielding sugar-canes, tobacco, indigo, corn, legumes, opium, hemp, flax, and cotton, the last being a staple commodity. Deer, hares, partridges, and other game are numerous. BARON, or NOESSA-BARON, an isl., S.E. coast, Java; lat. (centre) 8 30 S.; Ion. 113 25 E. BARONSTOWN, par. Irel. Louth ; 2209 ac. Pop. 967. BAROS, or BAROOS, a tn. Sumatra, W. coast ; lat. 2 N. ; Ion. 98 25 E., near the mouth of a small river. There is here a good harbour, to which much of the produce of the island of Nias is brought, such as batatas, rice, beans, fowls, &c., and exchanged for Steel, iron, tobacco, coral, and cotton goods. The district round Baroos was formerly a kingdom or petty state here, of the same name. It produces excellent camphor, benzoin, and some gold. BARQUESIMETO, a tn. Venezuela, cap. prov. of same name, 92 m. W.S.W. Valencia; lat. 9 54 35" N.; Ion. 69 12 27" W. (L.) Previous to the great earthquake of 1812, the town was well built, having straight and wide streets, a handsome parish church, a rich convent of Francis cans, and an hospital. It is now but a wreck of what it was. It has several schools and higher seminaries. Pop. 10,000 to 12,000. The PROVINCE lies between lat. 8 47 and 10 46 N.; and Ion. 68 30 and 70 30 W., and is bounded N. by the Caribbean Sea ; area, 12,312 geo. sq. m. Agriculture and cattle- rearing are the chief occupations. The principal products are wheat, coffee, cacao, maize, and indigo. Pop. (1825), 85,557; (1839), 122,755. BARR, a tn. France, dep. Bas Rhin (Alsace), 9 m. N. Schelestadt, agreeably situated at the foot of the Vosges ; tolerably well built, and has a good square. Near Barr, on the mountain of Hoeuburg, are the cax"e of Landsperg, and the convent of St. Odila, founded in 622, by Odila, daughter of Attic, Duke of Alsace. Part of a Roman wall, called by the inhabitants the Pagans wall, in some places 10 or 12 ft. high, and from 6 to 9 ft. broad, is also still to be seen there. The trade of Barr is principally in woollen stuffs, manufactured in the town. The dyeing establishments employ almost 800 workmen. Barr has also several mills, among others spin ning, tan, and oil mills, driven by water-power, and some trade in wine and brandy. Pop. 3585. BARR, two vils. and a par. Scotland: 1. A vil. and par. Ayr, the former 18 m. S.W. the town of Ayr, picturesquely situated on an angle formed by the water of Gregg and the river Stinchar. The most of the houses occupy an acclivity, and have been built without regard to order: but the whole village has a clean and neat appearance, and is well kept. The inhabitants are mostly employed in handicraft and agri cultural labour, and in muslin-weaving for the Glasgow manu facturers. Their social condition is excellent, there having been no criminal action against any inhabitant of the parish for 30 years. In August 1849, the lower part of the village was nearly swept away by a sudden flood from the neighbour ing heights, supposed to have proceeded from the bursting of a water-spout. Area of par., stated to be about 100 sq. m. or 64,000 imp. ac. Pop. 959. 2, A small vil., co. Argyle, dist. Cantyre, about 13 m. N. Campbelton. BARRA [a bar] , the name, with different affixes, of various places in Brazil: 1, Barra-das-Vdhas, a considerable vil., prov. Minas Geraes, r. bank, Rio Sao Francisco, where it is joined by the Rio das Velhas; lat. 16 50 S.; Ion. 45 20 W. It is situated in a vast plain, annually inundated by the two rivers which fertilize it. In this plain are salt deposits, from which the province is supplied. The village has two churches, and is rather unhealthy. Gold-washing, peltry trade, and agriculture, employ the 3000 inhabitants of the vil. and dis trict. 2, Barra-do-Rio-de-Contas, a flourishing tn., prov. Bahia, agreeably situated, r. bank, Rio de Contas, at its em bouchure in the Atlantic; lat. 14 22 S.; Ion. 39 W. It has a municipal hall, prison, church, primary school, and a good port for coasters. Two rivulets hard by are esteemed excel lent for tempering steel. In the district a considerable quan- BARRA 331 BARRADA tity of mandioca and cacao are cultivated for export to Baliia. i Pop. (tn. and dist.), 3000. 3, J3arra-do~ltio-Sao-Joao, a hamlet, prov. Rio de Janeiro, at the mouth of the Rio Sao I Joao ; and having a church and primary school. Sawing planks from timber cut in the neighbouring forests, is the I principal business of the place. The port is commodious, I and has 12 to 15 ft. of water. In winter, fever is prevalent in the district, arising from numerous marshes, with which it abounds. Pop. 4000. 4, Barra-do-Eio- Grande, a tn., prov. Bahia, at the junction with the Rio Grande and the Sao Francisco. It was formerly in prov. Pernambuco, but in 1820 was annexed to prov. Bahia. It has a church, and a primary school ; its district is generally sterile, producing only salt, in the procuring and transportation of which the most of its 4000 inhabitants are employed. 5, Barra-do-Eio- Neyro, also called Rio Negro, au ancient tn., prov. Para, 1. bank of the river after which it is named, near its junction with the Amazon. It has a church, and is the depository of various kinds of produce brought down the Rio Negro and its affluents ; and in it are three Government establishments, under Government superintendents, for making piassava cor dage, cotton cloth, and earthen tiles. 6, Barra-Longa, or Sao Jos6, a vil., prov. Minas Geraes, 45 in. S.W. Pilla-Rica or Ouro-Preto, on the Rio Gualcho, across which there is here a bridge. The village has a church, and 5000 inhabitants, mostly agriculturists. 7, Barra-Mansa, a vil., prov. Rio de Janeiro, on a river whence it is named, an affluent to the right of the Parahiba. It has a church, and sugar mill. The inhabitants of town and district are about 6000, and chiefly engaged in cultivation of coffee. (Diccio Geo. Imp. Brazil.} BARRA, a large vil. Naples, 4 m. E. the town of Naples. It produces silk, and contains many country houses belonging to the inhabitants of the metropolis. Pop. 5000. BARRA, a petty state, N. W. Africa, at the mouth of the Gambia, r. bank, extending about 54 m. along the coast, with a breadth of about 42 m. It is in general well cultivated, and contains a number of considerable villages, with some fine forests. The palm, banyan, and fig trees are also plentiful. Horses are scarce, but asses are numerous, as are also wild bufialoes. The greater part of the population is composed of Mandingoes, a fine race; the women stout, active, and pretty; the males tall, and well made, and of a more intellectual cast of countenance than is usual amongst negroes. They are also more refined, and of a more amiable and benevolent nature than the natives of the neighbouring kingdoms. In com mercial transactions they are shrewd, sharp, and wary. A principal branch of industry is the manufacture of salt, large quantities of which are exported ; maize, cotton stuffs, ivory, gold dust, &c., being taken in exchange. Their laws are inild, just, and in general fairly administered. They are all rigid Mahometans, and strict observers of the laws of the prophet. Pop. estimated at 200,000. The capital, Barra- Inding, lies on the coast, at the mouth of the Gambia, about 7 in. N.E. Bathurst, and has some trade in the articles above noticed. BARRA, or BARKA* ISLANDS, a group of upwards of 20 islands, forming a par. of same name, W. coast, Scotland, co. Inverness, forming part of the chain known by the name of the Outer Hebrides. About 10 of these are inhabited, and the others used as grazings. The principal island, from which the group is named, is about 12 m. in length, varying in breadth from 6 to 3 m.; its N. point is in Iflt. 67 2 N. ; Ion. 7 34 W. (R.) It is much indented by bays and arms of the sea, particularly on the E. side. On the W., with exception of two or three sandy bays, it is defended from the billows of the_ Atlantic by a barrier of huge rocks, excavated by the action of the sea into vast caves and fissures, the latter of appalling depth. Gneiss is the universal formation of these islands, but of an unusually refractory nature, undergoing little change from the action of the atmosphere, and every where displaying a singular aspect of obstinate durability ; while the difficulty with which it decomposes, imparts to the surface of the island a naked and barren appearance. The climate, like that of all the W. islands of Scotland, is variable and fluctuating, but mild and healthful. Notwithstanding its unpromising look, Barra contains a great deal of fine pasturage in the hollows and valleys ; while the hills, which are of con siderable height, afford excellent grazing to their very sum mits. The island, and parish in general, being better adapted for grazing than agriculture, the latter has not made much progress, although the adoption of improved implements has enabled the small farmers to turn their ground to much better account than formerly. The black cattle raised in Barra are much esteemed ; and for rearing sheep it is considered one of the best places in the Highlands, although it is but lately that a regular sheep stock was introduced there. The chief part of the lands is let to small tenants in crofts, from year to year a system under which no improvement can of course be expected. For the most part the inhabitants are miserably quartered, their houses being composed of loose stones and earth, and having neither windows nor chimneys, a round hole in the roof, and one or more holes on each side of the house, supplying their place. Their habits are uncleanly, and their household furniture generally of the most wretched description. Their ordinary food consists of barley-meal, potatoes, milk, and fish. More ardent spirits are said to be consumed in this island than in any place of the same extent in the W. isles. The manufacture of kelp employs a great many hands, old and young, for about two months in the year, but the pay is miserably small, the commodity itself having fallen to about a fourth of the former price. Few of the natives can either read or write. The coasts abound in fish, including ling, cod, tusk, hake, turbot, flounders, and herrings, the latter frequently visiting the island in immense shoals ; but the inhabitants, unfortunately, are in such a state of poverty, that they cannot provide themselves with the tackling necessary to enable them to take the utmost advantage of the wealth on their shores, perhaps not equalled, certainly not exceeded, in any other part of Scotland. As it is, there are from 20 to 30 boats of 3 tons each, with five men to each boat, employed in fishing. They carry the cod and ling they take, in a dried state, the latter being highly esteemed, to Glasgow and Greenock. Shell-fish are also abundant on the shores of Barra; lobsters, crabs, &c., and cockles in immense quantities. In scarce seasons the inhabitants live in a great measure on cockles, boiling them with milk, and thus making them into a kind of soup, which they consider wholesome and nutritious. There are four fresh-water lakes in the island, of from half a mile to a mile in length, all abounding in trout and eels. The ruins of several religious houses, apparently of very old date, exist in Barra, the more remarkable of which two churches, said to have been built by the monks of Icolmkill are at a place called Killbar. There are also numerous ancient watch-towers distributed over the islands ; and on every lake there is a dun or fort, supposed to have been built by the Scandinavians. Many Druidical circles are also to be met with. The ancient castle or stronghold of the MacNeils, the former proprietors of Barra, a rude and lonely mansion, stands in the middle of a beautiful bay, upon a small rock, which is entirely covered by the sea at high water. It is of an irregular form, strongly built, and about 60 ft. high, with a square tower in one corner, rising many feet above the adjoining walls. Here the MacNeils, in times of old, main tained the state and authority of sovereign princes, ruling with despotic sway, and mimicking the pomp and dignity of royalty. The names of the larger islands, of which the parish is formed, are Watersay, Sanderay, Pabbay, Mingalay, and Bernera to the S., with several others of lesser size, unin habited, to the E. and N.E. Mingalay and Bernera are re markable for their lofty rocks, one on the former being 1400 ft. perpendicular above the sea. To these rocks the natives resort for sea-fowl and their eggs. The most pre valent winds here are the S.W. and N.W., the former often blowing with such extraordinary violence, as to sweep away the sandy soil with its vegetation, leaving only naked rocks be hind. Pop. of par. 2363, of whom about 2000 are R. Catholics. BARRACKPOOR, a military cantonment, liindoostan, presid. Bengal ; 1. bank, Hooghly, 10 m. N.N.E. Calcutta. The site is beautiful, and the climate salubrious. Near this village is the palace of the Governor-general of India, the park around which is 4 m. in circumference. The canton ment is a large military village, with bungalows for the Euro pean officers and the other white inhabitants, who are attracted thither by the beauty and healthfulness of the place, and by its vicinity to the Governor s residence. Ruces are held here in the cool season. BARRADA, a river, Syria, pash. Damascus ; it rises near Ain-el-Hawra-Ujmt, flows S. along the Anti-Libanus, and BARRAFRANCA 332 EARROSA then, turning S.S.E., proceeds in a tortuous course through a rich valley, bordered alternately by bold rocks and wooded hills. On approaching Damascus, it is divided into two branches, one of which passes along the N. side of the city, while the other is diverted into eight different channels, for watering the city and irrigating its gardens. The former branch is supposed to be the Pharpar, and the latter the Abana, of ancient times. The branches shortly after unite, and the trunk receiving two tributaries, enters the marshes and lake of Bahr-el-Merdj-Atibe. (Chesney.) BARRAFRANCA, a tn. Sicily, valley of Caltanissetta, dist. Piazza. Pop. 5800. BARRAGH, par. Irel. Carlow; 13,297 ac. Pop. 3742. BARRAMAHL, or BARRA-MAUL, a subdivision of prov. Salem, Hindoostan, presid. Madras. See SALEM. BARRAUX, a vil. France, dep. Isere, 21 m. N.N.E. Grenoble. On an eminence, contiguous to the village, stands fort Barraux, a place of considerable strength. The inhabit ants are chiefly engaged in agriculture. Nearly opposite, across the Isere, stand the mouldering turrets and shattered walls of Bayard, the birthplace of the famous chevalier Sans Peur et sans Reproche. Pop. 2029. BARRAX, a tu. Spain, New Castile, prov. of, and 20 m. W. by N. Albacete ; in a plain, at the foot of the sierra de Alcaraz. It has clean streets, a square, parish church, town- house, with prison attached ; two schools, a storehouse, and a cemetery. The people are engaged in tillage, raising grain and saffron, and as muleteers. Pop. 2361. (Madoz.) BARRE, several townships, U. States:!, In Massa chusetts, co. Worcester ; the soil fertile, and well adapted for grazing. It contains one academy and 13 schools. Pop. 2751. 2, In Vermont, co. Washington ; with four churches and 15 schools. Pop. 2126. 3, In New York, co. Orleans; containing several villages, two academies, and 34 schools. Pop. 5539. 4, In Pennsylvania, co. Huntingdon ; with 10 schools. Pop. 2225. BARRE A, a vil. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra II. ; on a hill, r. bank, Sangro, 19 m. S.S.E. Salmona. Benedetto di Yirgilio, a poet of some name, was born here. Pop. 1 150. BARREAH, a tn. Hindoostan, prov. Goojerat, cap. of a small principality, 80 m. E.N.E. Cambay; lat. 22 44 N.; Ion. 74 E. It stands in a narrow valley, near the Pannah, a tributary of the Mhye, and is neatly built ; many of the houses are of brick. The district is wild, and covered with jungle, extending for a space of almost 40 m. wholly unculti vated, and inhabited by a few nomadic and predatory Bheels. BARREGES. See BAREGES. BARREL-OF-BUTTER ISLAND, a skerry or small rocky islet, Scotland, Orkney, off the S. end of Pomona, de riving its name from the circumstance of the tenant paying the proprietor a barrel of butter, as rent for the privilege of killing seals on it, the only thing of value it produces. BARREN ISLAND, the name of several islands in various parts of the world: 1, An isl., S.W. entrance into Bass s Strait, one of the Hunter group ; lat. 40 32 S. ; Ion. 144 48 E. 2, An isl., S.E. entrance, Banks s Strait, one of the Furneanx islands ; lat. 40 23 S.; Ion. 148 6 E. (R.) 3, A group of 7 or 8 islands, Mozambique Channel, W. coast, Madagascar; they are small, and low, with white sandy beaches, and shrubs on them. Some of them have reefs and breakers projecting to a considerable distance, and are ex tremely dangerous: they lie between 17 50 and 18 35 S., Ion. 43 32 and 43 55 E. 4, An isl. in the Bay of Bengal, about 55 m. E. from Middle Andaman Island ; lat. 12 16 N.; Ion. 93" 54 E. (R.) It is a volcano, 1848 ft. high, and may be seen from a distance of 36 to 40 m. It is of small extent, covered with trees, except near the crater. It was not gener ally known that this volcano was in an active state until ] 791, since which time it has continued so, and is subject to violent eruptions. The crater is very large when compared with the extent of the island. 5, A small isl. in the S. entrance of the Malayan or China Sea, between Borneo and the Malay Pen insula; lat. 1 29 N.; Ion. 106 28 E. (R.) 6, A small isl., sometimes called Rocky Island, on the E. coast of China, in the Tong Hai or Eastern Sea ; lat. 30 43 N. ; Ion. 123 8 E. (R.) 7, An isl. of Russian America, at the S. entrance into Cook s Inlet; lat. 58 53 N.; Ion. 151 26 W. (R.) BARRENJUEY POINT, New S. Wales, co. Cumber land ; it is a rocky peninsula, joined to the mainland by a narrow isthmus ; bounded by the sea on the E., and Pitt- water, an inlet from Broken Bay, on the W. ; lat. 33 37 S. ; Ion. 151 25 E. BARRHEAD, a large manufacturing vil. Scotland, co. Renfrew, in the vale, and on the banks of the Levern, 7 m. S.W. Glasgow; consisting chiefly of a row of houses on either side of the public road to Irvine. The more modern houses, mostly occupied by the working classes, are neat and com modious. The most elegant building is the chapel of ease, in the Norman style, connected with the Established church ; besides which, there are a Free and a U. Presbyterian church, and a R. Catholic chapel. Numerous extensive factories line either bank of the Levern. In the village and its vicinity there are four spinning-factories, with about 80,000 spindles ; and two weaving factories, nine bleacheries, seven printfields, a flour-mill, an iron-foundry, and a machine-shop, employing in all about 5000 hands. The railway to Barrhead, opened 1849, has greatly increased the prosperity of the place. Pop. (1841), 5337; now (1850), estimated at 8000. (Local Cor- \ respondent.) BARRIE, par. Scotland, Forfar; on the German Ocean, I N. of the Frith of Tay, having two lighthouses, which form 1 the leading lights for vessels entering the Tay. Pop. 2124. BARRIER REEF (THE GREAT) ; this reef, called ein- ! phatically the Great Barrier Reef, from its vast extent, is j situated off the N.E. coast of Australia. It commences witli Breaksea Spit, in lat. 24 30 S.; Ion. 153 20 E.; and ex tends to Bristow Island, on the coast of Papua, in lat. 9 15 S. ; Ion. 143 20 E., being a distance, in a straight line, of about 1260 m. It stretches along the coast at a mean distance | of about 30 m., being in some places not more than 10 or 15 in. j from the land, at ethers upwards of 100. This prodigious [ reef is wholly composed of coral, and rises in general precipi tously from a very great depth, no bottom having been reached in some places on the outer side of the barrier with a line of 285 fathoms. If laid dry, says Mr. Jukes, it would be found to have a considerable resemblance to a gigantic and irregular fortification ; a steep glacis, crowned with a | broken parapet wall, and carried from one rising ground to another. In sailing from Sydney, through Torres Strait, vessels have their choice of two tracts, called, respectively, the Inner and Outer Routes. In taking the former, they enter within the Barrier Reef at its S. extremity, and run np to the northward along shore. This passage, although narrow and intricate, is safe, with good anchorage the whole of the way, the depth being generally about 1 2 fathoms ; and it is protected also from the violence of the sea by the reefs themselves. The outer route has not yet been surveyed, and is only known roughly by having been traversed by whalers and merchant vessels. It has not, of course, the advantages of the inner passage, being exposed to the open sea, and having a depth of water which precludes all possibility of anchoring. Several vessels having been lost on these reefs, in consequence of there having been no chart to point out their dangers, or to indicate the openings by which, when taking the Outer Route, they might steer through the reefs for Torres Strait, Capt. Black- wood was despatched by the Admiralty, in II. M. S. Fly, in the year 1842, to survey the Barrier, and to lay down such channels between the outer and inner seas as offered a secure passage. This has been done, and several eligible openings marked, together with a very complete scries of soundings. ! On Maine s Islet, lat. 11 35 S. ; Ion. 144 5 E. ; which marks I the best passage through the reef, a beacon has been raised | 40 ft. high, and 30 ft. diameter at the base. It is built of i stone quarried in the island, and wrought into square blocks. ! (J. B. Jukes s Narrative of the Surveying Voyage of II. M.S. Fly. ) BARRIGA NEGRA, a tn. and dist. Uragnay or Banda Oriental. The town is 85 m. N.E. Monte Video. Large herds of cattle are reared in the district, many of the estates into which it is divided having from 60,000 to 200,000 head. BARRINGTON, four pars. Eng.: 1, par. Cambridge; ,2129ac. Pop. 533. 2, par. Somerset; 1520 ac. Pop. 531. 3, Harrington (Great), par. Berks and Gloucester; 2580 ac. Pop. 553. 4, Barrinyton (Little), par. Gloucester; 1780 ac. Pop. 208. BAKROSA, a vil. Spain, S.W. coast, Andalusia, prov. ! of, and 16 m. S.S.E. Cadiz. To the E. of the village, on a knoll of the same name, was fought (March 5, 1811) the well- BARROW 333 BARTON known battle in which the British, when shamefully aban doned by the Spaniards, gallantly repulsed an attack by a superior force of French under Victor, and took two of their BARROW, a large and important navigable river, Ire land, prov. Leinster ; it rises at the foot of Glenbarrow, in the Sliebhbloom mountains, on the borders of the King s and Queen s counties, a few miles W. Portarlingfon ; and, after a generally S. course of about 90 in., joins the Suir in forming the estuary called Waterford harbour. It is navigable to New Ross, a distance of 25 m. from the sea, for vessels of 200 tons ; and above that town for barges to Athy, where a branch of the Grand Canal joins it. Its principal tributaries are the Nore, the Greece, and the Blackwood river. BARROW, nine pars. England:!, Suffolk; 2810 ac. Pop. 995. 2, Chester; 2620 ac. Pop. 668. 3, Salop; j 2290 ac. Pop. 383. 1, (-Gumey), Somerset; 2130 ac. j Pop. 303. 5, (North], Somerset; 970 ac. Pop. 140. 6, j (South], Somerset; 580 ac. Pop. 140. 7, (-on- Trent), Derby; j 4040 ac. Pop. 641. 8, (upon-IIumler}, Lincoln; 4620 ac. Pop 1662. 9, (-upon-Soar), Leicester; 7950 ac. Pop. 5782. BARROW STRAIT, the connecting channel between Baffin s Bay on the E. through Lancaster Sound, and the Polar Sea on the W.; between lat. 73 45 and 74 40 N. ; | from 30 to 45 m. in breadth. The coasts are rocky, rugged, and sterile, and the water of great depth, frequently upwards of 350 fathoms, while often no soundings at all can be found. Icebergs of immense size are met with in this Strait. Whales abound there also, as in Baffin s Bay, which it quite resembles in all other respects. The strait was discovered in 1616 by Baffin, but Capt. Parry, who visited it in 1819, gave it its present name, after the late Sir John Barrow. BARROWBY, par. Eng. Lincoln; 4010 ac. Pop. 799. BARROWDEN, par. Eng. Rutland ; 1530 ac. Pop. 658. BARRY, a vil. and par., S. Wales, co. Glamorgan, 9 m. S.W. Cardiff. Pop. (1841), 104. There is a small isl. of the same name in this parish, abounding with rabbits, and having an area of about 300 ac. BARS. 1, A co. Hungary, circle, Hither Danube, length from N. to S. about 45 m., average breadth from W. to E. 18 m. ; area, 784 geo. sq. in. Towards the N. the surface is generally hilly, but in other directions it consists for the most part of rich alluvial plains or valleys, watered by numerous streams, of which the principal are the Gran, Nitra, and Sitra. It is rich in corn, wine, and cattle. Its minerals, once important, are understood to be nearly exhausted ; but some gold is still obtained. It possesses chalybeate springs and thermal baths. The cap. is Aranyos-Maroth. Pop. (chiefly Sclavonian and German), 133,000. 2, The name of four small places, Hungary ; three of them in the above co. on the Gran, in the vicinity of the town of Leva, and one in co. Siimegh, on the Drave. BARSAC, a tn. France, dep. Gironde, 23 m. S.E. Bor deaux, 1. bank, Gironde, in a district celebrated for its white wines. The best vineyards are above the town ; these pro duce a wine similar to Sauterne, having only a little less flavour, and rather more spirit. Pop. 1701. BARSHAM, four pars. Eng.: 1, par. Suffolk; 1470 ac. Pop. 250. 2, Barsham (East), par. Norfolk; 1230 ac. Pop. 240. 3, Barsham (North), par. Norfolk; 710 ac. Pop. 89. 4, Barsliam (West), par. Norfolk; 1380 ac. Pop. 86. BARSOE, an isl. Denmark, Schleswig, in the Little Belt, bail. Apenrade, about 2 m. long by 1 broad ; lat. 55 7 N. ; Ion. 9 32 E. A large portion of the E. side of the island forms a perpendicular limestone wall ; which, being under mined by the sea, causes Barsbe to become gradually less. On it is a small village. BARSTON, par. Eng. Warwick ; 1990 ac. Pop. 392. BART AN, or BARTIN, a tn. Asiatic Turkey, pash. Ana tolia, built at the junction of two rivers, the Ko jahna s and the Ordei ri, and near where the united streams fall into the Black Sea ; lat. 41 46 N. ; Ion. 32 10 E. It is surrounded by a ruinous wall, and consists of about 650 houses, and is built on two low hills of cretaceous limestone. The houses, on account of the marshy character of the surrounding country, are all built of two stories, the upper one of which alone is inhabited. For the same reason the streets are carefully paved with large limestone slabs. It has 12 mosques, five khans, and four baths, and carries on a lively trade with Constantinople, from which it imports various kinds of mer chandise, sending, in exchange, hemp, fruit, and building timber. Small vessels only can come to the town, there being but 7 ft. water on the bar. Pop. 10,000. BARTEN, a tn. Prussia, circle, Rastenberg, duchy of E. Prussia ; on the Siebe, 47 m. S.E. Kb nigsberg ; with a church, and a linen, horse, and cattle market. Pop. 1637. Other five villages in Prussia have the same name. BAKTENHEIM, a vil. France, dep. Haut-Ehin (Alsace), 15m. from Alt-kirch, near the Neuf-Brisach Canal. P. 1865. BARTENSTEIN, a tn. Prussia, circle, Rastenberg, duchy of E. Prussia; on the Aller, 34 m. S.S.E. Kb nigsberg; with woollen manufactures, tanneries, and more especially potteries. Pop. 4000. BARTFA, or BAETFELD, a free tn. Hungary, co. Saros, 156 m. N.E. Pesth ; on a rising ground, near the banks of the Tepla and Lauka. It is one of the oldest towns in Hun gary, and is well built ; has several It. Catholic churches, a Lutheran church and school, a Franciscan monastery, military academy, hospital, theatre, paper-mills, potteries, forges, &c. In the public square stands the townhall. Some acidulous chalybeate springs and baths, near the town, are much fre quented. In the neighbourhood a meteoric ironstone was found, weighing nearly 2 cwt. The trade in wine, hemp, linen cloth, and woollen yarn, is considerable. Pop. 5200. EARTH. See BARDT. BARTHOLOMEW (ST.) 1, One of the W. India leeward islands, belonging to Sweden, in lat. (centre) 1 7 50* N.; Ion. 62 52 W.; having the isl. of St. Martin N.N.W., distant about 12 m. ; and St. Christopher S.S.E., distant about 30 m. It is about 8 m. long, varying from 2 to 3 in breadth ; area, about 25 sq. m. It is of irregular shape, and deeply indented by numerous small sandy bays, separated by bold and steep rocky acclivities, of moderate height. In the in terior it is hilly, but its loftiest elevations do not reach 1000 ft. The island is, in most parts, barren and sterile ; but the numerous little valleys are well cultivated, and vegetables are at all times to be obtained. It produces also a little cotton, sugar, tobacco, and indigo ; but its only exports are cattle, and some salt. The trees of the island comprise lignum vita3 and iron-wood. Water is scarce, the inhabitants being obliged to depend for their supplies almost wholly on rain. The only harbour, Le Carenage, a safe and commodious one, and much frequented, is on the W. side of the island. Close by is Gustavia, the principal town, inhabited by a mixed popula tion of Swedes, English, French, Danes, and Americans. It is a thriving place, having a considerable commerce with the neighbouring islands in general supplies, which may be ob tained there at all times. This island was settled by the French in 1648, and was ceded by them to the Swedes in 1784, with whom it still remains. The slaves on this island were emancipated by a decree of the Swedish Government, dated October 9, 1847, on which occasion the negro popula tion framed an address of thanks to the King of Sweden. The population is estimated to be between 8000 and 9000, of which two-thirds are black. 2, An isl. of coral formation in the N. Pacific Ocean ; lat. 6 35 N. ; Ion. 148 47 E. ; it is low, covered with cocoa-nut trees, and inhabited by a light- complexioned race. BARTHOLOMEW (ST. HYDE), par. Eng. Hants; 2250 ac. Pop. 776. BARTHOMLEY, par. Eng., cos. Chester and Stafford ; ll,600ac. Pop. 2725. BARTIN. See BARTAX. BARTLOW, par. Eng. Cambridge ; 320 ac. Pop. 89. BARTOLOMEO-ix-GALDO (ST.), a tn. Naples, prov. Capitanata, 28 m. W. by. S. Foggia ; on an elevated hill, E. of the Fotore. It has a diocesan seminary, with a collegiate and several other churches. Pop. 3425. BARTON, numerous pars. Eng.: 1, par. Cambridge; 1500 ac. Pop. 319. 2, Barton, or High Barton, par. West morland ; 33,690 ac. Pop. 1668. 3, par. York, N. Riding ; 2790ac. Pop. 631. 4, Barton-in-Fabis, par. Notts; 1620ac. Pop. 333. 5, Barton- Bendish, par. and vil. Norfolk; 4390 ac. Pop. 455. 6, Barton-Blount, par. Derby; 1530 ac. Pop. 68. 7, Barton-in-the- Clay, par. Bedford ; 2270 ac. Pop. 855. 8, Barton (St. David s), par. Somerset; 1090 ac. Pop. 455. 9, Barton (Earls), par. Northampton ; 1 760 ac. Pop. 1079. 10, Barton (Great), par. Suffolk; 4030 ac. Pop. 774. BARTOX-UPON-HUMBER 334 BASEL 11, Barton-Hartshorne, par. Buckingham ; 870 ac. Pop. 165. 12, Barton-upon-the-Heaih, par. Warwick ; 1540 ac. Pop. 212. 13, Barton (Little), or Barton Mills, par. Suffolk ; 2050 ac. Pop. 640. 14, Barton-Segrave, par. Northampton ; 2030 ac. Pop. 219. 15, Barton Stacey, par. Hants; 4520 ac. Pop. 561. 16, Barton-Steeple, par. Oxford; 2710 ac. Pop. 640. 17, Barton in-the- Street, par. York, N. Riding; 3180 ac. Pop. 419. 18, Barton-Turf, par. Norfolk; 1750 ac. P. 408. 19, barton -TFesta>,par. Oxford; 650 ac. P. 290. BAETOX-CPON-HUMBEis, a tn. and par. Eng., co. Lincoln. The TOWN is pleasantly situated, on r. bank, Ilurnber, 33 m. N.N.E. Lincoln; has two ancient churches, and Wesleyan, Calvinist, Primitive Methodist, and R. Catholic chapels ; an endowed charity school, several alms-houses, and other chari ties. Trade principally in corn, flour, malt, coal, and bones for manure. Rope and sacking are manufactured ; and there are corn-mills, breweries, tanneries, potteries, c. Area of par. C710ac. Pop. 3475. BAETOX-UPON-iiiWEL, a township, England, co. Lan caster, 5 in. W. by S. Manchester, on botli sides the Irwel, here crossed by the Bridgewater canal, and on the Liverpool and Manchester railway. It has a neat church, Methodist, Independent, Unitarian, and R. Catholic chapels; several schools, and manufactures of calicoes, nankeens, iron and steel. It includes the village of Patricroft (which sec}. Pop. 10.865. BARTSCI1, a river, Prussia, which rises in gov. Posen, near the frontiers of Poland. It first takes a N. course, then turning E. passes Adelnau, and at Meletsch becomes navi gable. Here it turns to the S., and proceeds in a circuitous course till it is joined by the Orta. From this its course is W.N.W., till it falls into the Oder, 8 m. E. of Glogau. BARVAS, a vil. and par. Scotland, isl. Lewis, co. Ross. The VILLAGE is situated at the mouth of a small river of the same name, on the N.W. coast. The PARISH, in the N. part of the island, is 12 m. long by 7 broad. Pop. 2040. HARWELL, par. Eng. Leicester; 3950 ac. Pop. 1607. BARWICK, three pars. Eng.: 1, Barwick~with-Sta/ord, par. Somerset; 920 ac. Pop. 446. 2, Barwiclc, or Berwick- in-the-Brakes, par. Norfolk; 890 ac. Pop. 32. 3, Barwick, or Berwick-in-Elmett, par. York, W. Riding ; 8030ac. Pop. 2275. BAS, or BATZ, a small isl. France, in the English Channel, N. coast of dep. Finistere, 15 m. N.W. Morlaix. It is 2 m. long, and nearly 2 broad ; has three villages, four batteries, and two forts. The spring from which the inhabitants derive their sole supply of water, is below high-water mark. No trees grow on the island. The channel between the island and the mainland is a tolerable refuge for ships. A revolving light stands on an elevation, 223 ft. above the level of the sea, in lat. 48 44 48" N. ; Ion. 4 1 30" W. (R.) BASCHURCH, par. Eng. Salop;10,270 ac. Pop. 1491. BASECLES, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. Hainaut, on the road, and nearly half-way between Tournay and Mons ; with extenisve lime and marble quarries, and a considerable export of agricultural produce and cattle. Pop. 26G1. BASEELAX. See BASILAN. BASEL, or BASIL [French, Basle, Bah}, a can., N. W. corner of Switzerland, the llth in the Confederation, between lat. 47 21 and 47 37 N., and Ion. 7 29 and 7 48 E.; bounded, W. by France, N. by Baden and can. Aargau, E. by Aargau, and S. by cantons Soleure and Bern. Its shape is so very irregular, as to make it almost impossible to give an average length and breadth ; but its area is 140 geo. sq. m. The surface in the S. is mountainous, being intersected by portions of the Jura range, which in a manner isolates the canton from the rest of Switzerland; but the N. part is flat, lying along the banks of the Rhine. The whole canton belongs to the basin of that river, and is watered by a great number of its affluents, the chief of which are the Ergolz and Birse. The highest summit is about 2500 ft. The forests are considerable, and consist of oak, ash, pine, and fir. The soil, where it admits of cultivation, is fertile, and produces good crops, particularly on the borders of the Rhine, and in the valleys of the Ergolz and the Birse ; but the corn raised does not much exceed what is necessary for the consumption of the inhabitants. Wine of good quality, the best being Schwcizerblut, and fruit, are also produced. In the mountains, where the pasturage is excellent, cheese and butter are made to a large extent, and many cattle are reared. The only minerals wrought are sand stone, limestone, a little coal, and seme iron. Salt is obtained from salt springs. Manufactures employ the greater part of the population. Ribbon-making in particular had become an important branch of industry as early as the commencement of the 17th century, and was greatly extended by the influx of French Protestants, on the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. It occupied 1238 looms in 1754, and has since in- i creased to such an extent, that the number of persons employed j by the ribbon manufacturers of Basel, in this and the neigh- bouring cantons, is about 15,000; and the value of the ribbons i produced varies from 480,000 to 600,000 annually. The patterns were formerly imported from France; but the manu facturers now employ draughtsmen, who furnish the designs. The U. States take about a half of the whole, and the greater part of the remainder goes to Germany. England was at one time a considerable purchaser, but the great improvements in the manufactures of Coventry have almost entirely ex cluded those of Basel. Other manufactured articles are, silk thread, tape, sarsanets, leather, paper, cotton thread, some cotton goods, tobacco, and hardware. The commerce of the canton is extensive and flourishing ; its exports including in addition to the staple of ribbons already mentioned leather, paper, tobacco, hardware, and agricultural produce, particu larly wine, fruits, cattle, butter, and cheese. Its imports are colonial produce, silk, cotton, salt, leaf-tobacco, metals, iron, copper, and steel. The position of the canton between France, Germany, and Switzerland, procures for it an extensive transit trade, facilitated by the Rhine, and by the railways on either side that river. Its contingent to the army was 918 men, and its war contribution 34,425 francs (1377). It was divided into six Bezirk or administrative divisions- Basel, Liestall, Sipach, Waldeuburg, Berseck, and Unterer Bezirk. Since 1833, this canton has been definitively divided into the two cantons of Basel Country (Basel-Landschaft) , and Basel City (Basel-Stadt, Basle- Ville), Basel Country compris ing the whole territory of the old canton, with the exception of the town of Basel, its suburbs, and three communes on the r. bank of the Rhine, which together constitute the canton of Basel Town. Both cantons are portions of the Swiss Con federation, but have only a single vote between them an arrangement attended with the awkward result, that when they are not agreed they neutralize each other, and the vote is lost. BASEL [French, Basle or Bale}, one of the most extensive towns in Switzerland, cap. formerly of the whole can. of Basel, but now, since the subdivision of that can., cap. only of the can. of Basel Town. It is 43 m. N. Bern, pleasantly situated on the Rhine, which is here crossed by a wooden bridge, supported partly on stone piers. The river divides the town into two parts Gross Basel or Great Basel on the left bank, and Klein Basel or Little Basel on the right bank ; lat. 47 34 N. ; Ion. 7 36 E. Basel is surrounded by walls, and is tolerably well built ; streets irregular but clean, and plentifully supplied with fountains. The cathedral, built by Henry II. in 1019, has a tower 250 ft. high, and is one of the finest churches in Switzerland. It contains the tombs of Erasmus, (Ecolampadius, Bcmouilli, and Anne, wife of Ru dolph of Hapsburg, mother of the line of Austrian princes. In a corner of the square in which the cathedral is situated, is the public library, containing 50,000 volumes, with many important manuscripts, an interesting collection of paintings and drawings by Holbein, and a number of antiquities from Augst, the site of the Roman Augusta Ilauracomm. Behind the cathedral is a terrace, about 60 ft. above the level of the river, planted with chestnut trees, and commanding a fine view of the Rhine, the town, and the hills of the Black Forest. The arsenal contains the armour worn by Charles the Bold at the battle of Nancy. The university, founded in 1459 by Pope Pius II., and re-organized, in 1817, with 24 professors, was the first great seminary for the advancement of learning estab lished in Switzerland. It once enjoyed a high reputation, and numbered Erasmus, Bernoulli!, and Euler, among its profess ors ; the two latter were natives of Basel. The town has also a normal school, a gymnasium with 12 professors, an element ary polytechnic school, a theological institution, a school of practical agriculture, and the Erasmus college. The library of the theological institution contains 20,000 vols. ; and a special library attached to the botanical garden is said to be the richest of the kind in Europe. As a commercial and manufacturing town, Basel is the most important in Switzer- BASELE 335 BASHKIRS land. This is partly to be attributed to its position on the Batanes. That portion of them formerly called N. Bashees, frontiers of France and Germany, a few miles below the spot as will be seen from the following extract, is supposed to have where the Rhine becomes navigable, and at the termination no existence, at least in the position in which they are usually of the French and German railways on either side the river, 1 laid down, lat. 21 9 N.; Ion. 122 E.: The following morning we found ourselves close off Ya"mi or the northernmost of the Batanes group, and were for tunate enough to effect a landing on a detached islet, and obtain its position. This enabled us to efface from the chart the islets termed N. Bashees, which have no existence in the position as signed to them, nor in the visual radius from the mast-head po sition of the Samarang, 108 ft. above the level of the sea. The channel between the two north ernmost islands is safe, and carries soundings, but too deep for an chorage, as well as the bottom being rocky. The position of the islet lying off the S. extremity of Ya"mi, is in lat. 21 5 N.; Ion. 121 54 E. See BATAN and BATANES. (Sir E.Bel cher s Voy., Samaranfj, vol. i. p. 310.) BASHKIRS, apeculiarpeople BASEL, from above the town From Front s Sketches in France nnrt Switzerland. inhabiting the plains adjoining the S. Uralian Mountains, on the which naturally renders it the entrepot of the commerce of | confines of Europe and Asia, between the parallels of 52 and Switzerland with France, Germany, and the Low Countries. Its ribbon manufactories are extensive (see preceding ar ticle); and it also produces paper, silks, gloves, leather, jewel lery, printed cottons, and turnery ware. About a quarter of a mile beyond the gates a cross is erected, to commemorate the battle of St. Jacob, fought in 1444, when 1600 Swiss attacked a French army of twenty times their number, com manded by the Dauphin, afterwards Louis XL, and for 10 hours kept it in check ; nearly all the Swiss fell, not more than 10, according to some accounts, escaping alive. This exploit first spread the fame of Swiss valour, and led to the enrolment of the Swiss body-guard of France, The vineyards near the field of battle produce a red wine called Schweizer- llut [Swiss blood], esteemed the best in the canton. Down to the end of last century (1795), the clocks of Basel were kept an hour in advance of those in other places of Europe a singular custom, the origin of which is unknown. The treaties of peace, between France and Spain, and France and Prussia, were signed here, July 22, 1795. Pop. 21,601, almost all Protestants. BASELE, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. E. Flanders, on the Scheldt, 12 m. N.E. Tcrmonde. The chief church is handsome, and contains some good paintings ; and in the im mediate vicinity is an old Gothic castle of the 13th century, surrounded with a fine domain laid out in modern style, with a lake and suspension bridge. In the commune are large brickfields, producing from 60 to 70 million bricks annually. Many of the inhabitants gain their living by making sabots or wooden shoes. Pop. 4918. BASELICE, a tn. Naples, prov. Sannio, 18 m. S.E. Cam- poliapo, on the declivity of a mountain. It has an hospital, and two mcnts~de-piete, established to portion poor girls on their marriage. Pop. 4406. BAS-EN-BASSET, a tn. France, dep. Haute Loire, 11 m. N. Yssengeaux. Overlooking the town is the picturesque ruin of the castle of Rocliebaron. There are here manufac tures of blonde lace, ribbons, and earthenware. Pop. 1080. BASFORD, par. Eng. Notts ; 2720 ac. Pop. 8688. BASHEE ISLANDS, a group of islands, Indian Archi pelago, N. of the Philippine Islands, and between lat. 20 and 21 20 N., and Ion. 121 and 122 E.; discovered, in 1687, by Dampier. They were so called, by their discoverer, from the name of an intoxicating liquor which is much drunk there. Bashee is a thick yellow fluid, of a sub-acid taste, between that of cider and toddy, and is not very potent in its effects. They are hilly, and produce sugar-canes, plantains, bananas, pumpkins, yams, and vegetables ; abundance of goats, hogs, and good horses. These islands are now frequently called 55 30 N., and the meridians of 58 and 63 E. The origin of these people is extremely obscure ; their language, which dif fers but little from that of the Tatars of Kasan, seems to connect them with the Turkish race, while in looks and features they are said to bear a stronger resemblance to the Finnish tribes. It is not improbable that they are the descendants of Bulga rians, Nogays, and other Tatar adventurers who settled in the Uralian valleys, partly expelling, partly mixing with, and absorbing the original Finnish population. In the 13th cen tury, the travellers Carpini and Rubruquis point out in this quarter the country of Bascart or Pascatir, which they entitle Great Hungary. The Ostiaks on the river Obe, have the tradition that their nation came from the S.W., that is, from the S. Ural. The tradition of the Bashkirs is, that they left Bulgaria towards the end of the 16th century. They are now called, by their Tatar neighbours, Ueshtak (Ostiak) or strangers, so that all circumstances tend to show that, in occupying the territories, they succeeded also to the names of the original Finnish race. It is true that the name Bash kir is usually explained from the Turkish language ; some suppose it to be a corruption of Bash-kurt [a bee-head] , which is explained to mean a keeper of bees. Others endeavour to make the word signify shaven heads; but these etymologies, ingenious as they may be, fail to reconcile the comparatively recent and evidently Turkish origin of the present Bashkirs, with the mention of Pascatir, in the 13th century, in connec tion with the Hungarian or Finnish name. As to physical characters, the Bashkir may be said to be long to the rudest and most uncouth Mongolian type. He is of middle height, very muscular and strong ; his eyes are small, his mouth large, his face flat and broad, and widened still further to the view by the projection of enormous ears. He has black hair, and an olive complexion. The Bashkirs may be justly called the Bedouins of the N. They are in dolent on foot, but indefatigable on horseback; and being habitually intent on pillage, these bold horsemen and expert archers long proved extremely troublesome neighbours to the Russians. In 1741, however, they were completely subdued, and being placed, at a subsequent date, on the same footing as the Cossacks, they were obliged to furnish 3000 cavalry to the general service of the empire. They are allowed to choose their own chiefs their Starshiman and Attaman (Het- man) who govern each a volost or canton, assisted by a Rus sian secretary bearing the title of Tsemskoi Ispraonik. The Bashkir guards are armed with spear, bow, and arrows, and so expert are they in the use of the latter weapons, that it has not been thought worth while to supply them with fire-arms. The Bashkirs are, at the present day, the only people within BAS1LAN 336 BASS (THE) the limits of the Russian empire who still cling to their ancient nomadic habits. During half of the year at least, they live under trees or tents ; as winter approaches, they return to their villages for each encampment owns a group of wooden houses at the borders of some wood they send forward the women to exorcise the fixed, and, to their senses, gloomy dwellings, and thus settle for a few months with their droves and flocks around them. In spring, again, with different feelings, they hurry to the open plains, and encamp in small companies. The women milk the cattle, make cheese, weave cloth, and prepare felt for tent coverings ; the men drive the mares, tend the cattle, fish, and hunt with hawks. Their falconry is successful, and hawks trained by them fetch good prices in the Kirghiz steppes, and in Persia. With abundance of mares milk, mutton, and honey, to say nothing of game and wild fruits, devoid of care, and always on horseback, the Bashkirs lead a singularly happy and healthful life. Their wealth consists chiefly in droves of horses. A rich man will possess 2000 or 3000 mares, and there are few so poor as not to have a score. Their bee-hives are also extremely numerous ; honey, and, still more, wax, constituting chief articles of their export trade with the Russians. The Bashkirs are Maho metans, but of the most illiterate kind ; they assemble round their priest or mollah to pray in an open enclosure, having no covered mosques. They do not bury their dead in con secrated ground, but in the plain. The Bashkirs avoid as much as possible the towns and mines, and readily sell to the Russians the right of mining on their estates ; nor have they villages anywhere on the mountains, except near the pass of Zlatoust. At that point, the line of their usual haunts crosses the Uralian chain, extending N.E. to the Isset, and S.W. to the Bielaya, the Samana, and the Ural. Their territory S.W. Slatoust, is of the finest kind, well watered, wooded, and abundantly fertile ; but these equestrians think only of pas ture, and never of their own accord engage in agricultural pursuits. They do not go beyond Ekaterinburg on the one side, nor Orenburg on the other. In 1770, they reckoned 27,000 families or probably about 160,000 souls; in 1838, they had increased to 195,000; of whom about 20,000 were in the government of Perm, the remainder in that of Orenburg. BASILAN, or BASEELAN, one of the largest islands of the Sooloo Archipelago, off the S.W. extremity of Mindanao, from which it is separated by the Strait of Basilan, abut 15 m. broad, a safe channel, though having irregular tides ; lat. (E. point) 6 41 N.; Ion. 122 17 E. (H.) It is about 42 m. in length by 6 average breadth. It is low towards the coast, but mountainous in the centre ; produces bananas, sugar cane, and rice. Its coast abounds with fish ; hogs and deer run wild, and in the depths of the forest elephants are met with. Basilan is a favourite resort of pirates, particularly of a daring and active race calling themselves Illanos, a distinct people, who inhabit the line of coast comprised within the bight of the bay of that name in the island of Mindanao. (Journal of Hie Asiatic Society of Bengal.} BASILDEN, or BASILDOX, par. Eng. Berks ; 3120 ac. Pop. 812. BASILICATA, a pror. Naples, bounded, N. by provs. Principato Ultra and Capitanata, N.E. Bari, E. Otranto and Gulf of Taranto, S. Calabria Citra, S.W. the Mediterranean, W. Principato Citra ; greatest length, from N. to S., 95 m., greatest breadth, from E to W., 65 m. ; area, about 2464 geo. sq. m. It lies almost wholly on the E. side of the Ap- pcnnines, and its numerous streams, the chief of which are the Sinno, Agri, Salandrella, Basento, and the Bradano, flow E. into the Gulf of Taranto. The valleys in which these rivers flow, slope gradually in the same direction till within 10m. of the coast, when they sink down into a low plain. Here the fertility is great, and abundance of corn (principally maize), wine, flax, hemp, liquorice, and tobacco, are produced. Many of the hilly parts are planted with olives, and the more moun tainous districts afford excellent pasturage, on which great numbers of sheep, goats, and swine are reared. The capital of the province is Potenza. Pop. 469,000. BASING, par. Eng. Hants; 4970 ae. Pop. 1172. BASINGSTOKE, a tn. and par. England, co. Hants. The town, pleasantly situated near the source of the Loddon, 18 m. N.N.E. Winchester, consists of several streets lined with well-built houses, paved, amply supplied with water, and lighted. A handsome new townhall was erected here in 1832, containing a spacious market for corn, a ball-room, and other | apartments for public purposes. Basingstoke has a church, a fine Gothic structure erected in the time of Henry VIII.; ; two Dissenting chapels, and a Friends meeting-house ; a blue- coat and national school united, a British day-school for boys and girls, supported by the Society of Friends, and several Sunday-schools ; a mechanics institute, with good library, and numerous charities founded by private persons. A consider able trade is carried on in corn and malt, which is much faci litated by the favourable position of the town as regards the means of transport. Area of par. 3970 ac. Pop. 4066. BASINGTHOKPE-wiTii-WESTBY, par. Eng. Lincoln; 920 ac. Pop. 137. BASLE. See BASEL. BASLTC, par. Irel. Roscommon ; 15,396 ac. Pop. 3608. BASOUDA, a tn. Hindoostan, Malwa, on an affluent of the Betwah; lat. 23 53 N.; Ion. 78 E., containing about 2000 houses. BASQUE PROVINCES [anc. Cantabria], a territory of a nearly triangular shape, in the N. of Spain, formed by the three provinces Alava, Guipuzcoa, and Biscay, which contain j unitedly an area of about 4863 sq. m. It is bounded, N. by the Atlantic, E. by France and Navarre, S. by Old Castile, and W. by Santandcr, between lat. 42 25 and 43 28 N. ; and Ion. 1 44 and 3 20 W. These provinces are very mountainous and picturesque (see ALAVA, BISCAY, and GUIPUZCOA), and in language, manners, costume, and government, differ materially from the rest of Spain, each having a separate constitution. The privileges enjoyed by these provinces are not merely political ; for they have free trade in salt, tobacco, &c., on which a heavy duty is paid by the rest of Spain, and freedom from conscription. The Basques generally are honest, simple, and primitive, attached to music and dancing, and remarkably fond of the bagpipe ; with kindness they are easily managed, but are sullen and revengful if treated with severity. In person they are of the average height, remarkably well built, muscular, and capable of enduring great exertion ; they make the best sailors in Spain, and are industrious and skilful in mercantile pursuits. They are a brave people, much addicted to smuggling, and eminently fitted for the desultory manner of guerilla fighting, by which they have so long preserved their independence. The name Basque is derived, by Humboldt, from Basoa, a forest, whence Basocoa, belonging to a forest ; other antiquaries derive it from Bassoco, a mountaineer. The nation is, as far as history informs us, the first that took up its abode in Spain, though its origin is doubtful. Humboldt imagines that the inhabitants are the modern representatives and descendants of the ancient Iberi, and, according to the Basque historians, the Vascones, so called by the Romans, had settlements in France, Italy, and Ireland. Be this as it may, it is evident that the Basque nation has at different periods held the greater part of Spain in subjection, and successfully resisted all attempts to deprive it of its liberties and privileges. Pop. 373.149. BASS (THE), a remarkable insular trap rock, Scotland, co. Haddington, at the mouth of the Frith of Forth; lat. 56 4 42" N. ; Ion. 2 38 12" W. ; 2 m. from the coast of E. Lothian, and 3 m. from N. Berwick. It is of a circular form, about 1 m. in circumference, rising majestically out of the sea to a height of 420 ft. On being closely approached, its aspect is tremendous, from its lofty precipitous walls of rock, and the immense excavations which the sea has opened all around, one of which, running N.W. and S.E. may be taken in calm weather. The rock is inaccessible, except on one flat shelvy point to the S.E. There is a spring of water on its summit, whose superficies has been guessed at 7 ac., and where a few sheep also are grazed, which bring a high price, Bass mutton being considered a delicacy. Solan geese, and other sea fowl in myriads, cover its rocks, and keep flying around it in clouds. On the N.E. side, the water is of great depth, but shallow on the S. Among the several ruins on the island, of historical interest, are (Jie remains of a fortalicc, com- Imanding the landing-place, capable of accommodating upwards 1 00 men, and which had been accessible only by ladders or i buckets and chains, and the ruins of a chapel, about half-way ; up the acclivity of the rock. The Bass was purchased by Government after the Revolution, and its castle, long since demolished, converted into a state prison, in which various I leaders of the Reformation were confined. It was the last BASSA 337 BASTIA place in Britain that held out against William III., its gallant defenders, a small band, yielding only when they had no longer a means of subsistence. This singular rock anciently belonged to a family of the name of Lauder, whose head was styled, Lauder of the Bass. BASSA, BAFFA, or BUFFA, a harbour, Grain Coast, coast of Guinea, between the Capes of Mesurado and Palmas, in about lat. 7 N. ; Ion. 10 20 W., and distant from the former between 70 and 80 m. The neighbouring country abounds in fruits, especially oranges, lemons, and bananas. Cattle, sheep, and goats are also reared in great numbers, affording ample supplies to vessels resorting to the harbour. BASSAIN, a tn. Bunnah, cap. prov., 1. bank, Bassain river, one of the mouths of the Irawady, 99 m. W. Rangoon; lat. 16 50 N. ; Ion. 94 45 E. It is considered the third port in the empire ; has a greater depth of water than Eangoon, but is less centrally situated for trade. Pop. (1826), 3000. BASSALEGr, par. Wales, Monmouth ; 6290 ac. P. 1731. BASSAM (GRAND). 1, A river, W. Africa, the embou chure of which is on the S. part of the Ivory Coast, where the French have a settlement. Its chief affluent, the Acka or Ackba, which comes from the N., is said to approach near one of the arms of the Niger. 2, A tn. near the mouth of the above river, and cap. of a district of same name ; lat. 5 20 N. ; Ion. 3 30 W. It is a place of some trade, and exports a considerable quantity of gold. BASSANO, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, 15 m. N.E. Vicenza, 1. bank, Brenta, here crossed by a beautiful stone bridge, connecting the town with its suburbs on the opposite side of the river. Bassano is surrounded by walls, is well built, and well paved, having marble footpaths. It has 30 churches, four nunneries, two hospitals, a gymnasium, schools, and several benevolent institutions ; a mont-de-piete, and barracks ; works for spinning silk and bleaching wax, tanneries, manufactures of woollen cloth, straw hats, and cop per utensils ; and likewise a printing establishment, founded 1663, which, at one time, employed 50 presses, and more than 1 000 persons, but is now much fallen off. Paper-mills are attached to it, and also a school of engraving, by which Bar- tolozzi, Volpato, and other distinguished engravers, largely benefited. The trade of Bassano consists chiefly of silk, the produce of its own territory; cloth, timber, iron, corn, wine, and cattle. In the vicinity a great quantity of charcoal is made, which is sent to Venice. The country around is studded with villages, and abounds in vines and olive-trees, which last here reach their N. limit of growth. Bassano is the birthplace of Francesco, Giacomo, and Leonardo da Ponte, the fathers of the Venetian school of painting, and of Aldus Manutius, the celebrated printer of Venice. On September 9, 1796, the Austrians, under Wurmser, were here defeated by the French under Bonaparte. Napoleon, when Emperor, created his secretary, Maret, duke of Bassano. Pop. 10,000. BASSAR (AL), or EL-KASR-KEBIR, a tn. Marocco, 85 m. S.S.W. Tangier, r. bank, Luccos or Loukkos. It has good- looking houses, roofed with tiles in the European style, 14 mosques, a large number of shops, and a market. Pop. 5000. BASSAR PULO, a small isl., Asiatic Archipelago, N. coast Ceram, a little W. of the entrance into Sawa Bay ; lat. 2 45 S.; Ion. 129 10 E. BASSAS DA INDIA, an isl. Mozambique Channel ; lat. 22 22 30" S.; Ion. 40 24 15" E. (R.) The name of Baxosda India, given it by the Portuguese discoverers, it still bears in all European charts except our own. It is of a circular shape, about 3 or 4 in. in diameter, highest towards the N., but generally flat; and on the W. has a white sandy beach, without any appearance of shoals or rocks. It is of easy access, is well wooded, and the shores abound in turtle. (Horsburgh.) BASS STRAIT, the passage between Van Dicmen s Land and Australia, about 150 m. in length, and 120 to 140 in breadth. It is much obstructed by islands and coral reefs, and is, on this account, a rather dangerous navigation. The pre vailing winds are from the W. The tide rises from 8 to 12 ft., and runs at the rate of 1^ to 3 m. per hour. The soundings vary from 35 to 42 fathoms. The strait is called after Mr. Bass, a surgeon, by whom it was explored while on a sealing voyage from Port Jackson. BASSEE (LA), a small tn. France, dep. Nord, 14 m. S.W. Lille, on the canal of same name, that forms the water VOL. I. communication from the Deule to St. Omer, Dunkirk, and Calais. Bonnets, soft soap, and pottery, are made here. i There are also spinning-mills for wool and cotton, oil- mills, tanneries, and a saltwork. The trade is principally in grain, seeds, wine, oil, butter, fruit, cattle, pigs, wood, and coal. Pop. 2248. BASSEIN, a seaport tn. Hindoostan, presidency Bombay, prov. Aurungabad ; lat. 19 22 N. ; Ion. 72 54 E. ; 30 m. N. Bombay, and separated from the island of Salsette by a narrow channel. It was fortified by the Portuguese in 1531, and remained in their possession until captured by the Mah- rattas, in 1750. Here the treaty was signed, December 31, 1802, between the Peshwa and the British Government, which annihilated the federal empire of the Mahrattas ; since which it has belonged to the British. A considerable part of the rural population of the district are R. Catholics. To the N. and N.E. of the town are extensive forests of teak, from which the dockyards of Bombay are supplied. BASSENTHWA1TE, par. Eng. Cumberland ; 6930 ac. Pop. 536. BASSERSDORF, a vil. and par. Switzerland, can. of, and 8 m. N.E. Ziirich, pleasantly situated in an open valley. It has a church and two schools. The inhabitants are engaged partly in agriculture and partly in manufactures. Pop. 825. BASSES (GREAT and LITTLE), the former, called Kaman- paaj by the natives of Hindoostan, is the name of a ledge of rocks nearly 1 m. in extent, off the S. end of the island of Ceylon; lat. 6 11 N. ; Ion. 81 36 E. It is elevated but a few feet above water, and the sea breaks over it with great violence in stormy weather. There is a safe channel between it and the main, which is about 9 m. distant. About 21m. N.E. by E. of the Great Basses, is the ledge of rocks called the Little Basses ; lat. 6 24 30" N.; Ion. 81 54 E. BASSETERRE, two tns. West Indies:!, Cap of isl. St. Christopher s ; is situated at the mouth of a small river, S. side of the island ; contains about 800 houses, a spacious square, and a church, and is defended by three forts. The district of Basseterre contains 17 sq. m., with a population of 6620; and is divided into two parishes St. George s, and St. Peter s, the former of which sends four, the latter two members to the Assembly. The vale of Basseterre is beautiful, and well cultivated. 2, The cap. of isl. Guadaloupe, lies near the S. end of the island, and consists of one principal long street, stretching along the sea-shore. Defended by Forts-Royal and Matilda. The anchorage is unsheltered, and exposed to a constant swell. B ASSIGN AN A, a tn. Sardinian States (formerly fortified), prov. of, and 7 m. N.E. Alexandria ; r. bank, Po, not far from the mouth of the Tanaro. Pop. 4000. BASSINGBOURNE, par. Eng. Cambridge; 4235 ac. Pop. 1774. BASSINGHAM, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 1940 ac. P. 792. BASSORA. See BUSSORAH. BASTAD, or BATSTA, a market and fishing tn. Sweden, bail, of, and 58 m. N. W. Christianstad, on the Kattegat ; lat. 56 26 N. ; Ion. 12 49 E. It has a tolerably good harbour, and carries on some seafaring business with Malmb Ystad and other places. BASTELICA, a tn. France, dep. Corsica, arrond. of, and 15 m. E.N.E. Ajaccio; on the Prunnetta, chief place of can ton. Pop. 2528. BASTIA, a seaport tn. France, N.E. coast, isl. Corsica, 55 m. N.N.E. Ajaccio ; lat. 42 41 48" N. ; Ion. 9 27 E. (R.) It is the wealthiest and most populous town in the island, is built in the form of an amphitheatre, amid olive, orange, and citron gardens, and has a fine appearance from the sea ; but on a nearer approach, the houses are found to be mean, the streets narrow, though well paved with a kind of marble jasper. Several of the churches are handsome, with rich gilding and marble sculptures, resembling the churches of Italy. The finest is that of St. John the Baptist, which is of large size, and highly decorated. This town is the seat of the royal court of appeal for the island, of a court of com merce, and of an inspector-general of forests. It has a royal college, a royal school of hydrography, a theatre, a public library, with 6000 volumes, and is the residence of consuls from most of the European states. The staple of Bastia is leather. Its numerous tanneries prepare, on an average, annually, 5000 to 6000 bullock-hides, 1000 calf, and 6000 EASTIDE-DE-SEROU 333 BATAVIA Bheep-skins. Tlie other manufactures consist of soap, wax candles, liqueurs, and stilettoes, which are highly esteemed by the Italians. The trade is chiefly in wine, oil, leather, goats hair, and coral. Coral-fishing, also, is carried on to some extent. A considerable trade is done in wine, oil, figs, pulse, grain, oak-bark, and fruit; and there is regular com munication by steam with Toulon. Of late years, Bastia has greatly increased in importance, and has become a centre of most extensive traffic between France, Sicily, Italy, and the Levant. The former incommodious port is (1850) in pro cess of being replaced by a new one, which will enclose a surface of 20 ac., one-half of which will present a depth of 19 ft. ; and a quarter, 26 ft. It will be protected by a mole, and form an excellent harbour of refuge. Before the annexa tion of Corsica to France, Bastia was the capital of the island. Pop. (1846), 12,571. BASTIDE-DE-SEROU, a neat little tn. France, dep. Ariege, 8 m. N.W. Foix ; situated or the Arizo, here crossed by a stone bridge of a single arch. There are in the vicinity a remarkable grotto, and a copper mine, no longer worked"; and a worsted, and some saw mills. Tiles, pottery, and hosiery are made here. Pop. 1107. BASTIDE-ROUAiROCx, a tn. France, dep. Tarn, 23 m. from Castres ; well built, has some dyeworks, and cloth manu factories. Pop. 1496. BASTOGNE, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. Luxem bourg; in a plain, on the high road between Namur and Luxembourg, from the latter of which it is about 32 m. N.W. It has two churches, four chapels, a small seminary, and an hospital. Its fortifications were demolished by the French in 1688. Tanneries, and the knitting of worsted stockings, employ a great part of the inhabitants. There is also an important trade in grain and cattle. Bastogne is famous for its hams. Pop. 2220. BASTON, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 3520 ac. Pop. 765. BASWICH. or BERKSWICH, par. Eng. Stafford ; 6200 ac. Pop. 1438. BATAAN, a prov. Philippines, isl. Luzon, forming a peninsula, W. side of the Bay of Manilla; to the N. it is bounded by prov. Zambales. It is poor, and little cultivated, yet produces the best sugar in the Philippines, and very good indigo, but scarcely enough of rice to supply the wants of the people. The country is frequently inundated, and the roads rendered impracticable in the rainy season. The province is traversed by lofty mountains, which are well covered with valuable wood ; but the streams by which it is watered are generally small, and only to be navigated by native boats ; they abound, however, in fish, which forms a staple article of food to the inhabitants. Pop. 37,010. BATAC, or BATAG ISLAND, Asiatic Archipelago, X. coast, Samar, one of the Philippines; lat. (N. point) 12 43 N.; Ion. 1255 E. (it.) Inside of this island is the port of Palapa, having 5 and 6 fathoms water, accessible by two channels, one on each side of Batac. BATALHA, atn.and par. Portugal, prov. Estremadura, dist. of, and 7 m. S. Leiria, on the Lis. The Dominican con vent here, was founded by King John I., in commemoration of a victory over the King of Castile, near Aljubarrota, in the year 1385. This convent, in the Norman Gothic style, is one of the most splendid buildings in Europe. An Irishman, named Hacket, was the architect. It was intended as the royal bury- ing-place for the Kings of Portugal, but the sepulchre of the Braganzas is now at Belem. The town has some trade in salt, and an important annual fair, which lasts eight days. Pop. 1002. BATALIN, or BATAI.TNG, a small isl. Asiatic Archipelago, S.W. Cape Talyabo, on the E. coast of the island of Celebes ; lat. 1 30 S.; Ion. 123 50 E. (K.) BATAN, an isl. Indian Archipelago, the principal of the Batanes group, belonging to the Philippines ; lat. (cathedral of San Domingo) 20 27 30" N.; Ion. 121 59 E. (R.) It is about 12 m. long by about 4 broad, covered with rich vege tation, and is mountainous, the highest peak being 5000 ft. high, and apparently an extinct volcano. It yields in abund ance, yams, sweet potatoes, maize, onions, garlic, rice, grain, &c. Cattle, pigs, goats, sheep, and poultry, wood and water, are plentiful. Batan has three convents. The Alcalde resides in the Casa Real, San Domingo, in the bay of same name, in which good anchorage and shelter are to be found. He has jurisdiction over the Babuyanes ; the Batanes proper, in most British maps named the Bashees (all of which see}. BATANES, a group of islands, Indian Archipelago, be longing to the Philippines. They lie N. of the Babuyanes, but in British maps are usually called Bashees. They consist of six islands, Batan (which sec], Bayat, or Ibayat, or Orange. Island, Saptang, Chevre, Bashee, and Dampier, all off the N. end of the island of Luzon, between lat. 20 and 21 20 N. The Babuyanes, in some authorities, are named Batanes. (See BASHEE.) BATANG ISLAND. See BATTAM. BATANG PASSA AND BATANG LOBO. 1, Two fine streams, Sumatra, affluents of the Rokan or Rakan, which falls into the Strait of Malacca, at Tanah Pooti. 2, Batang Ilari, a considerable stream, Sumatra, an affluent of the Jambi, which falls into the China Sea, N.W. the island of Banca. 3, Batang Godis, a considerable stream, Sumatra, but not navigable. It falls into the Indian Ocean, on the W. coast, opposite the island of Niha or Nias. BATANGAS, a prov. and tn. Philippines, isl. Luzon, S. Manilla. The PROVINCE is intersected by lat. 14 N., and bounded S. by the Mindoro Strait; it is composed principally of plateaux and fertile meadows, variegated with beautiful and fragrant flowers, yielding ample food to innumerable humming birds and bees, the latter producing large quantities of honey. The mountains of this province, among which are four peaks of considerable elevation, are well wooded on the W., but have scarcely any vegetation on the E. side. They are said to contain iron and some gold. The principal rivers, all small, are the Baytigbug, Obispo, Gemil, Daccan, Caon, and Bonbon. This last flows from the lake of the same name, otherwise called Taal, and falls into the Bay of Balayan; it abounds in excel lent fish. Lake Bonbon or Taal, lies near the centre of the province, and is about 12 m. long by about 10 broad. It is deep, full of fish, and in its centre is a small island, in the middle of which is the crater of a still active volcano. At the bottom of this crater and in the midst of flaming vents, is a small lake, the waters of which, as analysed by the chemist Lopez, are composed of sulphuric acid. This lake is sufficiently large and deep to be navigated by small boats, and round its edge is a flat space sufficiently broad to form a carriage way. It has no communication with the large exterior lake. The province is subject, to earthquakes. It grows excellent coffee, indigo, maize, a little pepper, fine cotton, legumes, fruits, cacao, and wild nutmegs. Its pastures are good, and feed beauti ful flocks, cattle, and horses. Some little cotton spinning and weaving are carried on ; and fishing supports a considerable number. Commerce: chiefly with Manilla, in the various articles of native produce already enumerated, but more especially in cattle, the flesh of which is highly esteemed. The province is reckoned healthy, and the people are affable and laborious. Pop. 180,937. The TOWN, cap. of the prov., lies on the bay of the same name, 1. bank, Calumpang, 58 m. S.Manilla: lat. 13 45 N.; Ion. 121 5 E. (R.) It was founded in 1581, is large, built with tolerable regularity, has spacious streets, an elegant royal house, the dwelling of the Alcalde, with several elegant private houses. It is well situated for trade, the large bay on which it lies, about 10 m. sq., opening into the Strait of Mindoro, which is the track of a great number of vessels. Pop., tn. and dist. 17,380. (Mallat s Philippines.} BATANTA, an isl. Indian Archipelago, off the N.W. end of Papua; lat. (W. end) 58 S.; Ion. 130 30 E. It is separated S. from the island of Salawatty by Pitt s Strait, and N. from Waygin, by Dampier Strait. It was formerly under the king of Tidor, but is now under the Dutch. It is inhabited by Malays and Papuans. BAT AV AN AN, an isl. Indian Archipelago, S.E. coast, Luzon, a little E. of the bay of St. Miguel, in lat. (N. point) 14ll N.;lon. 123 3(X E. (it.) BATAVIA, a coast prov., N.W. end, isl. Java, cap. same name, bounded, E. by Krawang, S. by Buitenzorg, W. by Bantam, and N. by the Java Sea ; length, about 50 m. ; breadth, about 20; area, 880 sq. m. Along with Buitenzorg, it funned at one time the native kingdom of Jaccatra. This province is in general flat, the ground rising a little in the S., and is not so fertile as other parts of Java, arising doubtless from the scarcity of water in many localities. Rice in moderate quantities, coffee, and pepper are grown ; excellent fruit and LATAVIA 339 BATAVIA good vegetables in superabundance are cultivated, and a con siderable number of cattle, horses, and pigs are reared. Sea and river fish are plentiful, and so are likewise crocodiles. Pop. (1845), 281,143. BATAVIA, a large important commercial tn. Java, cap. not only of that island, but of all the Dutch possessions in the East. It lies near the N.W.end of Java, in a spacious and beautiful island-studded bay ; lat. (observatory) 6 8 S. ; Ion. 106 50 E. (R.) It is composed of two portions, the old, called Jaccatra by the natives, situated in a marshy flat near the sea, and intersected by the Tjiliwong or Great Kiver, and sundry canals ; and the new suburban portion, extending over the higher grounds to a distance of several miles inland, the respective sections of this latter portion being called Hijs- wijk, Noordwijk, Molenvliet, Tanabang, Koningsplein (King s Plain), and Weltevreden. In these suburban portions are the dwellings of the Europeans, who no longer inhabit the old town, on account of its well-known insalubrity, so great, that instances are on record of fever being taken from sleeping in it one night only. Much has been done, however, to improve public health in Batavia ; marshes have been drained, and into the stagnant canals currents of water have been led, so that now the sanitary condition has been much ameliorated. In consequence of the desertion of the Europeans, many houses in the old town present a very dilapidated appearance, ren dered all the more melancholy by the white stone of which they are built. Still it is the business part of the town. The principal warehouses and offices of the Europeans, together with the Java bank and the Exchange, are all collected into one long street, which, from nine A.M. till four P.M., presents a very busy scene ; but in the evening, after business hours, when the merchants have returned to their dwellings in the suburbs, it is as still as before it was animated. The prin cipal buildings in the old town are, the Stadhuis or townhall, the Lutheran and Reformed churches, the exchange, the cus tom-house, and the Chinese hospital, none of them having any pretensions to architectural beauty. On the W. side of the Great River, is the Chinese quarter, inhabited exclusively by THE TOWN AND POUT OF BATAVIA. Af natives of the celestial empire, who form an important and industrious portion of the population of Batavia. This quarter is so Chinese in outward appearance, as might almost lead to Vhe supposition that a section of Canton had been transported to Java, In smaller matters, the Chinese are governed by their own laws, administered by native officers, usually re spectable merchants, appointed to the duty by the Dutch Government. The suburbs, inhabited by the Europeans, pre sent more the appearance of a garden than a town, each house being built apart from its neighbour, and surrounded by cocoa- nut trees, bananas, &c., whose shade imparts a delightful freshness to the apartments. Here are located the Governor s house, the general hospital, William s church ( Willemskerl;} , the society of arts and sciences, and the museum of that society, containing an extensive collection of Malay and Hindoo deities, and having a reading-room attached to it. The Government offices are united in a large building, at one of the extremities of Waterloo plain, formerly called Weltevreden, and in the same plain are located the 11. Catholic church, and an excel lent primary school. Elsewhere throughout the town there are several other schools, a Mahometan mosque, several Chinese temples or pagodas, and a theatre. Batavia, in common with the other two principal towns of Java, possesses an orphan court, charged with the administration of all successions not expressly excluded by testamentary deed. This court has agents in all the towns over which it has jurisdiction. The streets of Batavia have footpaths on either side, re served for the use of freemen natives, or Chinese. Slaves must either walk on the unpaved centre, or if on the footpath, get out of the way of any freeman they may chance to meet. Earopeans never walk. So strict is etiquette in- this respect, according to Dumont d Urville, that if a European, either from choice or necessity, should walk on his feet in the streets, he must needs be followed by a carriage. Batavia is the depot for the produce of all the Dutch pos sessions in the E. Seas. Of the three articles most in demand for European consumption, coffee, pepper, and sugar, the two former are entirely monopolized by the Dutch Government. Spices are brought from the Moluccas ; coffee and pepper, camphor, benzoin, edible birds nests, and elephants teeth, from Celebes and Sumatra ; gold dust and diamonds from Borneo ; tin from the government mines in Banca ; tortoise- shell, bces -wax, dyewoods, &c., from Timor, Sumbawa, and the other islands to the E. ; tea, nankin, porcelain, mother-of- pearl, borax, tobacco, and paper, from China; and opium, drugs, patna cloths, &c., from Bengal. A valuable trade is also carried on with Japan; but since the establishment of the British in Singapore, the Dutch trade with India, China, and Siam, has considerably decreased. To these importations, ice from America has recently been added, large quantities being now yearly brought to Batavia, to India, and to various islands of the Indian Archipelago. The principal exports are rice, coffee, sugar, pepper, and arrack. The Dutch ships from Europe seldom proceed further than Batavia, to which place the produce of the other possessions is brought in Dutch country ships, a fine class of vessels, for the most part owned, officered, and commanded by British subjects. The bay forms an open but secure roadstead, of great beauty, and may be entered by the largest vessels. It con tains a number of islands, many of them named after towns in Holland. On Onrust is the naval arsenal, well fortified ; on another is a convict establishment; on a third, an hospital; and on a fourth, warehouses. The chief articles of native consumption are rice, fish, and salt, the two latter monoplized by the Government. Near the town are extensive works for making salt from sea-water, but the produce is disposed of at the Government stores at about seven times its real value. The whole of the fish brought to Batavia is, in the first instance, sold wholesale by a Govern ment auctioneer to the rich Chinese fishmongers, who retail BATAVIA 340 BATH it at a large profit. The markets are well supplied with fruit and vegetables. The principal sorts arc mangosteens, durians, and shaddocks, the three prime fruits of Java ; pine apples, soursops, rambutans, rose apples, guavas, dookoos, limes, lemons, melons, pomegranates, and sixty different kinds of plantain and banana. Poultry is plentiful and cheap, but turkeys, pigeons, and wild fowl are, in general, scarce, and butcher meat is dear. Bata-via originally was merely a com mercial station. It received from the Dutch its present name in 1619, and in 1723 it had risen to be a considerable town. In 181 1 it was taken from the Dutch by the British, but was restored by the treaty of 1815. The population is very mixed, consisting of Dutch, English, and Por tuguese, and their descendants, 2800; Javanese, chiefly of Malay extraction, 80,000; Chinese, 25,000; Moors and Arabs, 1000 ; Slaves, 9500. Total pop. (1832), 118,300. (Temrninck s Covp d ceil; Van der Aa s Nederlanden ; Earl s Eastern Seas ; lla.ussma.rm, Voy.en Chine, Inde, et Malaisie ; Dumont D Urville, Voy. autour du Monde.) BATAVIA, a township and post vi!., U. States, cap. co. Genessee, New York, 40 m. E. Buffalo. It has three academies, and 22 schools. The post village contains a court-house, jail, county clerk s office, five churches, and a female seminary. Pop. (1840), 2000. There are several other places of this name in the United States. BATCHIAN. See BATSHIAN. BATCOMBE, two pars. Eng. : 1 , par. Dorset ; 1790 nc. Pop. 171. 2, par. Somerset; 3150 ac. Pop. 780. BATE ISLE, an isl. Ilindoostan, off thcN.W. extremity of the province of Goojerat, and the entrance to the Gulf of dutch ; lat. (Fort) 22 28 30" N. ; Ion. G9 9 E. (p.) It has a good harbour, and about 2000 houses, chiefly inhabited by Brahmins. It was for many years the retreat of pirates, who, in 1803, repulsed a British force, but were at length put down. Pop. 7000. BATEA, a tn. Spain, Catalonia, prov. of, and 50 m. W. Tarragona, at the foot of a small hill. It is tolerably well built, and possesses two squares, a parish church, chapel, two schools, a prison, and an old castle. The inhabitants are chiefly occupied in tillage, and in expressing oil and wine ; which, as well as fruit, they export ; and import rice, and other articles of consumption. Pop. 2444. BATEMAN BAY, Australia, S.E. coast, co. St. Vincent; 142 m. S.W. Port Jackson; lat. 36 15 S. ; Ion. 150 20 E. BATENBUKG, a tn. Holland, prov. Gelderland, 10 m. Vv .S.W. Nijmegen, r. bank, Maas, consisting of two streets, crossing each other in the centre, and having a Calvinistic church with a lofty tower, a R. Catholic church, and a school. It is reputed to be one of the oldest towns in the country ; was formerly of much greater extent than now ; was walled, sur rounded by a ditch, and had a castle and two gates. Its decrease in size is probably owing to its having been repeat edly burned. Pop. 500. BATH, a city, England, co. Somerset, 12 m. E. by S. Bristol, and 107 \V. London. The greater part of it lies in a deep valley on the Avon, the remainder on the surrounding acclivities ; the whole presenting a singularly striking and imposing appearance. The principal streets are straight, well lighted with gas, and particularly well kept great atten tion being paid to this department of municipal economy; supply of water plentiful. The houses are of freestone, which is obtained in abundance from the adjacent hills, and are generally handsome. The principal buildings are, the as sembly rooms, guildhall, theatre, the pump-room, King s and Queen s baths, cross bath, hot bath, and swimming bath, hot bath pump-room, Kingston bath, general hospital, city dis pensary, and united hospital, and the literary institution. Among the numerous fine specimens of domestic architecture in the city, associated with unrivalled beauty of situation, the Circus, Eoyal Crescent, and Pulteney Street, are the best. Bath has, altogether, 12 churches, and 12 chapels ; most of tho latter belonging to various bodies of Protestant dissenters ; two R. Catholic chapels, and a Jews synagogue. Two of the churches, the Abbey church, and St. Michael s, are par ticularly handsome ; the W. front of the former being richly embellished, and the pierced spire of the latter forming one of BA1II, AEUEY CHURCH, CHEAP STKEKT, 4 i:e Oranxe Grove. the most interesting features of the city. The most important schools are the grammar college, grammar school, blue-coat charity school, and the national school. The principal charitable and literary institutions are, the Bath general BATH 341 BATHURST hospital, the united hospital, and several dispensaries, two literary and scientific institutions, and a mechanics institute. There are no manufactures of any consequence in the city, nor any trade beyond the retail business of a fashionable place of residence. The famous thermal springs to which Bath owes its cele brity, are three in number, yielding, respectively, 128, 120, and 112 gallons per minute, their temperature ranging from 1 1 2 to 116 Fall. The waters have been analyzed by various chemists, the results of whose investigations exhibit consider able discrepancies, inducing the belief that the ingredients vary both in kind and proportion, at different times. The following analysis of water taken from the large spring that supplies the Grand Pump-room, was made by the German chemist, Walcker: In 1000 RT. 1 pint (34-659 cub. in.) Chloride of Sodium 0-21560 1-89031 Chloride of Magnesium 0-19018 1-66744 Sulphate of Potassa 0-04173 0-36583 Sulphate of Soda 0-27618 2-42145 Sulphate of Lime 1-16371 10-20303 Carbonate ot Lime 0-15208 1-33339 Proto-carbonate of Iron 0-00347 0-03042 Alumina 0-00215 0-01885 Silica 0-04610 0-40419 Extractive matter 2-09120 gr. 18-33196 gr. Carbonic Acid Gas, ) t , , , ( 0-05 cub. in. Atmospheric Air, ) ( 1-74 cub. in. The accommodation provided for bathers at the various bathing establishments is of the most complete and elegant description. The King s bath, one of the most extensive, is GO ft. long by 41 ft. wide, is filled daily to the height of 4 ft. [ 7 in., and contains more than 314 tons of water ; the Queen s bath, adjoining, is 25 ft. square. The new royal private baths, of which there are seven, contain, each, 14 hogsheads of water, and the tepid swimming bath, 670, being 62 ft. long, and 23 ft. wide. Salubrity of climate, beauty of scenery, and abundance and cheapness of markets, in all of which respects it is unequalled by any other city in the kingdom, are the other leading attractions of Bath. It is not now, however, so popular a place of resort for the fashionable world as it was in former times, but still contains a great number of gentry, who have been induced, by its numerous advantages, to make it a permanent place of residence. Bath was founded by the Romans, and called by them Aquce Solis. Amongst the remains of that people discovered there, were some baths, exceeding in elegance, it is said, those of the present day. These baths were found about 20 ft. below the present level of the soil. The city owed much, if not all, its early celebrity and prosperity, to the singular personage known by the name of Beau Nash, who came to reside there in 1703, and who, from the zeal and tact he displayed in arranging and conducting the balls, assemblies, and other amusements of the town, was unanimously voted master of the ceremonies a position which he occupied undisputed for about half a century. Nash died in 1761, and was buried with great pomp in the Abbey church. Anstey, the author of the New Bath Guide, in which the follies and vices of that fashionable resort are so cleverly satirized, was a native of this city. The corporation of Bath consists of a mayor, 14 aldermen, and 42 councillors. Jointly with Wells, it is the head of a diocese, and returns two members to the House of Commons. Registered electors, in 1850, 3059. Top. (1850), estimated at 60,000. (Local Correspondent.} BATH. 1, A seaport tn., U. States, Maine, co. Lincoln, of which it is one of the principal commercial towns ; pleasantly situated, W. bank, Kenebec river, 12 m. from the ocean. Shipbuilding is carried on here to a great extent; in 1840, to the amount of about 44,000. The tonnage of the port, in the same year, amounted to 64,035 tons. It contains three churches, five academies, and 20 schools. Pop. (1840), 5141. 2, A co. Virginia, having nine schools, and a pop. of 4300. 3, Several towns and townships, the largest of which is the cap. of eo. Steuben, state of New York, which has a court house, jail, five churches, one bank, a female seminary, and 26 schools, with two weekly newspapers, and a pop. of 4915. BATHAMPTON, par. Eng. Somerset ; 860 ac. P. 354. BATHEALTON, par. Eng. Somerset ; 740 ac. P. 135. BATH-EASTON, par. Eng. Somerset; 1900ac. P. 2191. BATHFORD, par. Eng. Somerset ; 2030 ac. P. 1099. BATHGATE, a tn. and par. Scotland, co. Linlithgow. The town is situated on an acclivity, and near the base of a ridge of hills, 19 m. W. Edinburgh, and 25 m. E. Glasgow, on the Edinburgh and Bathgate Railway. It comprises an old and new town ; the former consisting of several narrow, crooked, and very dirty lanes ; the latter of several principal streets, on a regular plan, straight and spacious, with broad footways. The houses are almost all of stone, and, in the new part of the town, are well built. The town is lighted with gas, and abundantly supplied with excellent water, chiefly from springs. It has a parish church, a Free church, and two U. Presbyterian churches, all very plain buildings. The schools are, the parish school, and the well-known aca demy, a handsome structure, erected in 1 832-34, situated on a rising ground a little E. of the town. The principal manu factures are ginghams and pulicates, mostly for exportation ; but, during the last few years, the weaving of the finer sorts of worsted plaids and shawls has been carried on to a limited extent. Except at times when trade is depressed, there are about 530 hand-loom weavers employed on fabrics of the former, and about 30 on fabrics of the latter description. The weavers are mostly all employed by large mercantile houses in Glasgow. There are, besides, a distillery, a brewery, and three grain-mills. A number of the females are employed in tambouring ; and a good many hands are engaged in the coal and ironstone mines in the neighbourhood. On the low grounds, a little S. of the town, the remains may still be traced of a castle, in which Walter, High Steward of Scotland, resided, and in which he died, 1328. Bathgate was erected into a free burgh of barony in 1824. The length of the par. is 7 m. ; its greatest breadth 4 m.; area, 11,214-6 ac. Pop. of tu. and par. (1841), 3928. (Local Correspondent.} BATHURST. 1, An English settlement, W. coast, Africa, at the E. end of the small isl. of St. Mary, at the mouth of the Gambia; lat. 13 28 N. ; Ion. 16 32 W. The principal street, called Wellington Street, faces the river, and consists of warehouses and private dwellings, built of stone or brick, and roofed with slates or shingles. The houses consist of one floor, raised from the ground on brick pillars; have verandahs, and large open apartments, and are approached by a long flight of steps. They are, in general, commodious, and have a handsome appearance. The other parts of the town are composed chiefly of African huts, with small gardens on each side. The market is held under a long open shed, and is thronged by individuals of various tribes, and with people from the different neighbouring kingdoms. Pro visions are plentiful ; beef, mutton, poultry, fish, niilk, and butter, being brought into the town by the natives in great abundance. At a short distance from Bathurst is a spacious hospital for liberated Africans. The English settlers are chiefly merchants, who deal in gum, bees -wax, hides, ivory, and gold, receiving, in exchange for these articles, the cloths and cutlery of England. Bathurst settlement was established in 1816. 2, A tn. Cape Colony, co. Albany, 20 m. S.S.E. Graham s Town. 3, A dist. Upper Canada, of a triangular form, with its base stretching along the r. or S. bank of the Ottawa ; area, 1 700 sq. m. The surface is generally level or of but moderate elevation, covered with lofty forest trees. The soil, in this and the adjoining districts, is, in some situations, marshy, but, in general, fertile ; average value of cleared land, 2, Qs. Id. per ac. ; wild, 6s. Sd. In 1848, there were 41,659 ac. under crop; of which 16,083 were wheat, 16,359 oats, and 4767 potatoes. The remainder comprised barley, rye, pease, maize, and buckwheat. The agricultural produce of Bathurst, for 1848, includes also 158,693 Ibs. maple sugar. Live stock in the same year : cattle, 22,329; sheep, 36,416; hogs, 13,375. Daiiy produce: butter, 303,730 Ibs.; cheese, 9573 Ibs. The principal manufactures of the district are, fulled cloth, linen, and flannel ; of the first of which, upwards of 33,000 yards are manufactured yearly; of the second, about 2000 yards ; and of the third, upwards of 71 ,000 yards. Bathurst comprises the counties of Lanark and Renfrew, cap. Perth. It sends one member to the legislative assembly. Pop. (1848), 29,448. (Canadian Almanac, 1849-50; Bouchettes British N. America.} 4, A tn. and bay, New Brunswick ; the latter in lat. 47 37 N. ; Ion. 65 45 W. 5, A cape, Arctic Ocean; lat. 70 36 N.; Ion. 127 35 W. (K.) 6, An inland co., New S. Wales, 65 m. in length uud 40 in breadth; BATIIWICK 342 BATTA area, 1,190,400 ac. It consists, in general, of broken table land ; in some places forming extensive downs or plains with out a tree. This is one of the most flourishing counties in New S. Wales, and its resources, as a fine-woolled sheep- farming district, considerable. The live stock is estimated (1849) at 3131 horses, 27,166 head of horned cattle, 853 pigs, and 236,033 sheep. Being the most W. county of the colony, it labours under several disadvantages distance from mar kets, and want of easy access to the coast, from which its nearest point is distant about 90 m. These drawbacks oper ate unfavourably on its agricultural interests, compelling the settlers to confine their attention to the rearing of sheep. Pop. of co. 4391, of which 2799 are males. Bathurst, the cap. of the co., is situated, r. bank, Macquarrie, 100 m. N.W. Sydney, to which there is a carriage road. It contains 364 houses, and is built mostly of stone or brick. Pop. of tn. (1848), 1883. 7, An isl. Australia, N.W. coast, separated from Melville Island by a narrow channel called Apsley Strait; lat. 11 19 S.; Ion. 130 16 E. (K.) The island is of a triangular shape, each side measuring about 40 m. The N.W. coast is generally low, and lined with mangroves ; the other sides are more elevated, and sometimes abrupt, forming cliffs or clay banks. The W. end is sandy and barren, but in all other parts it is covered with wood, chiefly the red gum and papyrus ; presenting one mass of dark- green foliage, which imparts to the island a gloomy and forbidding appear ance. Cockatoos abound. Captain Stokes found rocks con taining iron ; these rocks, he adds, had a strange appearance, being heaped together in the form of a whirlpool ; the ground beneath appeared quite hollow. 8, A bay, Australia, N.E. coast; lat. 14 7 S.jlon. 144 10 E.; having Cape Melville on the E. side of its entrance, and Flinder s Islands on the W., the distance between these two points being about 15m. The bay runs inland about 6 m. 9, A lake, New S. Wales, co. Argyle, from 3 to 5 m. in diameter. 1 0, A harbour, Van Diemen s Land, S. coast, a branch of Port Davey, ex tending about 9 m. to the E., having several islets in it, with coves or indentations on either side. The entrance by Port Davey is in lat. 43 18 S. ; Ion. 146 1 E. BATH WICK par. Eng. co. Somerset ; 630 ac. P. 4972. BATICALO, a tn. and seaport, E. side, isl. Ceylon, cap. dist. of same name; on an island, about 3^ m. in circum ference, called by the natives Puliantive, close to the land ; lat. 7 42 30" N.; Ion. 81 42 E. (R.) Being embosomed in cocoa-nut trees, it presents a very pleasing appearance. It is protected by a small square fort, and is chiefly occupied by Dutch burghers and natives. It has one Protestant church, two K. Catholic churches, and several places of worship for Mahometans and heathens. Baticalo was the first port visited by the Dutch on their first voyage to Ceylon, in May 1602. (Ceylon Gaz.) BATIGNOLLES-MoxcEAUx, a com. on the N.E., and properly a suburb of Paris. In 1814, it was an open unoc cupied space which the Prussians, under Blucher, used as their camp. It is now covered with handsome buildings, and has a pop. of 19,380. BATINDAH, or BEHTINIDEH, a large tn. Hindoostan, in Rajpootana; lat. 30 12 N.; Ion. 75 7 E.; 75m. N.N.W. Ilissar. The surrounding country abounds in excellent pas tures, and is famous for its breed of horses. BATISCAN. 1, A seigniory, Lower Canada, co. Cham- plain, 60 m. long and 6 broad ; comprises three parishes, St. Stanislaus, St. Genevieve, and St. Francois. Timber grows here in abundance, but a great part of the seigniory is cleared, and agriculture extensively pursued as an occupation. Pop. 2700. 2, Two rivers, N. America, the one falling into the St. Lawrence about 2 m. S. Batiscan, and the other into the river St. Maurice. BATLEY, a tn. and par. England, co. York, W. Riding, in a valley, 2 m. N. Dewsbury. The tn. consists of two parallel streets, straight, and well kept ; houses of stone and brick together, and rather irregularly built. The supply of water is indifferent, but the town is well lighted with gas, and Is rapidly increasing and improving. Batley has a parish church, an ancient fabric, in the early English style , several chapels, for Wesleyans and other dissenters ; a free grammar school, national, free girls , an academy, with several minor and Sunday schools ; a literary society, called the Batley Literary and Mental Improvement Society, and several benefit societies. The principal manufactures are those of heavy woollen cloths, such as pilot, beaver, kersey, army and frieze cloths, as well as blankets and carpets. This is a very important | place, as regards the above trade ; it may fairly be considered the seat and centre of it. There are 8 or 10 large woollen mills in the valley, in the compass of about 1 m., besides as many others in various parts of the town. The ruins of Howley Hall, which stand on an eminence overlooking the town, form an object of some interest. Area of par. 6390 ac. ; pop. 14,278. Pop. of tn. (1841), 7076; (1850), about 10,000. (Local Coi-responcknt.) BATON ROUGE (EAST), a tn., U. States, Louisiana 1. bank, Mississippi ; on a bluff or high land, 85 m. N.W. New Orleans. It is limited almost to one street, and con tains a court-house, jail, penitentiary, four churches, one college, three academies, and three schools. Pop. (1840), 2269 BATOUANI, a tn., S. Africa, E. end of Lake Ngami, where the river Zouga emerges from it; lat. 20 46 S.; Ion. 24 E. Batouani is inhabited by people of the same name. (Jour. Boy. Geo. Soc., 1850.) BATOUM, or BATUM, a seaport tn. Turkey in Asia, pash. Trebizond, E. shore, Black Sea, 4 m. N. from the mouth of the Tchorak; lat. (Cape Batoum) 41 39 24" N. ; Ion. 41 37 E. (R.) It is irregularly built, contains a bazaar, situated on the W. side of the bay, close to the sea; about 60 shops, several coffee-houses, khans, and a mosque, all built of wood. It is a safe port, being well sheltered, with deep water, and capable of containing a great many ships of large size. It has, however, little trade, excepting with Trebizond, in coasters which import chiefly British manufactured goods. The country around is fertile in fruits, corn, and rice. The W. side of the bay is considered unhealthy, especially from July to October; the E. the reverse, having none of the marshy ground around it, which is the source of the insalubrity of the other. Pop. 2500. BATSFOED, or BATTESFORD, par. Eng. Gloucester; 980 ac. Pop. 79. BATSHIAN, BATCIIIAN, BACHIAS, or BATJAN, a Molluca isl. Indian Archipelago, W. coast, Gillolo, about 57 m. long by 5 to 20 broad; lat. (fort Barneveldt) 37 S.; Ion. 11736 E. (R.) It is of volcanic formation, mountaii ous, and picturesque ; produces large sago and cocoa palms, good rice, and the best cloves in the Mollucas ; but the culture of these last is not attended to. It has some warm sulphurous springs. On the coasts, fish are very plentiful. The island is governed by the Prince of Batshian, a vassal of the Sultan of Ternate. The principal town or village is Batshian, on a narrow neck of land near the centre of the island. It con tains about 200 native houses or huts, and a school, the teacher of which, on Sabbaths, preaches in a neat little Chris tian church, which stands about half-way between the town and the Dutch fort, Barneveldt, distant about 1 m. About half of the 1100 inhabitants of the town are Christians. In 1707, the island was nearly depopulated by small-pox. BATTA, or BATTAK, a dist. Sumatra, extending from the Battu Barra river on the N.N.W., to the Rackan on the S.S.E., and occupying the entire breadth of the island, which is here comparatively narrow. It is divided into six principal districts, and, according to Dutch authorities, into three small kingdoms. The centre of the territory is occupied by ex tensive plains, in the midst of which is a considerable lake. On its S.W. side it is traversed by the Dili Mountains, a portion of the continuous range which runs parallel to the S.W. coast of the island, throughout its whole length. On this side, therefore, the land is high near the shore, and some times thickly wooded. The soil is in general fertile, and better cultivated than that of some of the S. districts, though water is not over abundant. Batta district is inhabited by a peculiar race of people, differing widely, in many respects, from those occupying the other parts of the island. They are muscular, square built, and strong, rather below the stature of the Malays, and having fairer complexions. Their dress is commonly of a sort of cotton cloth, manufactured by them selves; thick, harsh, and wiry, of various colours, and worn round the middle, with a scarf over the shoulder. The women, who are treated as slaves, are far from being attractive, either in manner or appearance. The liattas, although they do not seem to be naturally either of a ferocious or sanguinary dis position, are accused of cannibalism, but with the usual palli- BATTAGLTA 343 BAUUOUR ntion that it is practised as a species of ceremony, and not from any inherent love for human flesh. In other respects, they seem to be a sufficiently amiable sort of people, with a general tendency rather to good than evil. The houses are built with frames of wood, with the sides of boards, and usually consist of a single large room, which is entered by a trap-door in the middle. The ordinary food of the lower class of people is maize and sweet potatoes. Amongst their delicacies are horse-flesh, and the flesh of a small black dog, which they fatten and eat. Toddy or palm-wine, they drink copiously at their feasts. Polygamy is practised, each wife occupying a different part of one large room, but being no otherwise separated. Their religion is at once peculiar and unintelli gible. The natives of the sea-coast exchange their benzoin, camphor, cassia, and small quantities of gold dust, for iron, steel, brass wire, and salt. These they barter again with the more inland inhabitants, for the products and manufactures of the country, particularly the home-made cloth. The Government of the Batta country, although nominally in the hands of three or more sovereign Kajas, is effectively divided into numberless petty chiefships. BATTAGLIA, a small tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, 9 m. S.W. Padua, on the canal of Monselice, at its junction with the canal of the Battaglia. It is celebrated for its hot sulphurous springs and baths, 158 Fah., to which crowds of foreigners resort every year. The promenades along the banks of the canal are charming, and a great source of enjoy ment to visitors. Pop. 3000. BATTAHAN, a dist., W. coast, Sumatra, Dutch prov. of Padang, with vil. of same name, 12 m. S. Natal, at the mouth of the river Battahan. The district yields gold, which is sent for sale to Natal. BATTALAH, or BETTAT.A [Vatala], a large tn. Punjab, in a vast open plain, 26 m. N.E. Amritser; lat. 31 48 N. ; Ion. 75 6 E. It is surrounded by groves of mango trees, and tanks of water. All kinds of fruits prized by Europeans grow here in abundance ; it is considered the healthiest place in the Punjab. BATTAM, or BATANO, an isl. Indian Archipelago, W. entrance into the Strait of Singapore, and distant from the island of that name, 13 or 14 in. E.S.E.; lat. 1 5 N.; Ion. 104 E. It is about 28 m. long by 8 broad, and contains a good harbour, called Boolang Bay, which has been lately much frequented by American ships trading with Singapore, who, by discharging and receiving their cargoes there, avoid the dues exacted at the latter port. It is surrounded by rocky islets, and is separated from Bin tang island by a narrow strait. BATTERSEA, a par. and vil. England, co. Surrey, in a low situation, r. bank, Thames, across which there is here a wooden bridge, connecting it with Chelsea on the opposite side. A great portion of the parish is laid out in market gardens, the produce of which is sent to the London market. The parish church is a neat brick building, and contains, amongst other interesting monuments, one to the celebrated Lord Bolingbroke, sculptured by Eoubiliac. Area of par. 3020 ac. Pop. 6887. BATTICE-josE, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. of, and 12 m. E. Liege. From 300 to 400 looms are employed in weaving cloth. A great deal of butter, and still more of cheese, known by the name of Liinburg, are exported. Pop. 4490. BATTICOTTA, a vil. and par. Ceylon, in Jaffna; the former contains a seminary, established by the American missionaries, into which native youths only are admitted. There is here, likewise, a Bible association. Pop. of par. and vil. 6841, all Malabars. (Ceylon Gaz.) BATTISFORD, par. Eng. Suffolk; 1340 ac. Pop. 520. BATTLE, par. and vil., S. Wales, Brecon. Pop. 176. BATTLE, a market tn. and par. England, co. Sussex. The town, in a valley nearly encircled by wooded hills, 7 m. N.W. Hastings, consists chiefly of one irregular street, in which there are many old-fashioned buildings, is well supplied with water, and lighted with gas. The church is ancient, and contains some fine specimens of painted glass, and numer ous antique monuments. There are places of worship, also, for Baptists, Wesleyans, Swedenborgians, and Unitarians, and an endowed and charity schools. Battle has been long celebrated for the manufacture of gunpowder. Tanning is likewise carried on to a considerable extent. Interesting remains of the ancient abbey, built by William the Norman, still exist, including the gateway, a beautiful specimen of the | decorated English style. The town was anciently called Epiton, but changed to its present name after the battle of Hastings. Market-day, Thursday; three fairs annually. Area of par. 7880 ac. Pop. 3032. BATTLEFIELD, par. Eng. Salop ; 850 ac. Pop. 64. BATTLESDEN, par. Eng. Bedford ; 1140ac. Pop. 179. BATTUECAS, or BATUECAS-LAS, two remarkable valleys in Spain, prov. Salamanca, in the midst of high and rugged mountains, on the borders of Estremadura. They are difficult of access. Spanish tradition had peopled these wild and lonely glens with demons, and other supernatural beings ; but the establishment of a Carmelite convent there, in 1599, tended to put an end to this absurd belief. The principal valley is 3 m. long, and 2 broad. On the summit of the highest moun tain, by which it is overhung, is a chapel dedicated to the Virgin, which is visited by immense numbers of people on the 8th of every September. State prisoners were sometimes sent to this dreary region. The romance of Las Batuecas, by Madame de Genlis, is founded on a story which represents these valleys as having been discovered in the 16th century by two fugitive lovers. BATU, an isl. Indian Archipelago, W. coast, Sumatra, immediately S. of the equator; 40 m. long, and 10 average breadth ; almost entirely covered with wood. It is rich in sago, cocoa-nuts, and birds nests ; and is inhabited by a tribe from the island of Nias, who pay a yearly tribute to the Kaja of Baluaro, a small fortified village in the interior, belong ing to a different tribe, whose number is never allowed to exceed 100. BATURIN, a tn. Russia, gov. of, and 78 m. E. Tscher- nigov ; pleasantly situated on a hill, near the Se im, a tributary of the Desha. It contains a handsome chateau, belonging to the Counts of Easumowski ; a convent, and eight churches. The inhabitants depend chiefly on agriculture, and several yearly markets. Baturin was once the residence of the hetmans of the Cossacks; and had a fastness, which, on the revolt of the celebrated Mazeppa, in 1708, was demolished. Pop. (1819), 1399. BATURITE [formerly Montemor Vellio], a tn. Brazil, prov. Ceara, 95 m. S.W. Aracaty, in the serra Baturite. It has a church, school, and electoral colleges. The inhabitants of town and district, 2200, are engaged in cultivating and gathering cotton, and in rearing cattle. The serra of Baturite or Botarite, runs S.W. to N.E., with a considerable curve; total length, about 150 m. It is fertile, and well peopled. BATURSKA-WOLA, a vil. Austria, Galicia, circle, and 9 m. N.W. Bochnia; on the Vistula. Pop. 2260. BATZ (ISLE OF). See BAS. BATZ, a fishing tn. France, dcp. Loire-Inferieure (Brit tany), amidst salt marshes, on the shores of the Bay of Biscay, and about 22 m. W. Sevenay. The houses are well built of granite, with lofty windows and slated roofs. The inhabit ants are chiefly engaged in fishing, for which their locality and little harbour are well adapted ; they are remarkable for their cleanliness, which is especially manifested in the care fully waxed floors and furniture of their houses, and for a curious costume peculiar to themselves, and transmitted with out change from generation to generation. The object most worthy of notice is the church, whose square belfry, sur mounted by a cupola, about 170 ft. high, is an important land mark for vessels, in passing two very dangerous reefs at the entry of the Loire. A variety of curious shell-work is made here. Tho chief trade is in fish, herrings, and pilchards ; corn, hay, flax, and salt of the finest quality obtained from the salt marshes. Pop. 1286. BAUBELTHOUAP, an isl. Pacific Ocean, the largest of the Pellew group; lat. (N. extremity) 7 49 N. ; Ion. 134 52 E. (R.), forming the N.E. part of the chain; it is about 24 m. in length, and on its W. side there is a high hill, from the summit of which both extremes of the chain may be seen. BAUCO, a tn. Papal States, 6 m. W. Frosinone. P. 3000. BAUD, a tn. France, dep. Morbihan, 20 m. N.W. Vannes; having some trade in grain, cattle, hemp, butter, and honey. Pop. 1082. BAUDOUR, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. Hainaut, 7 in. W. Mons. The DISTRICT is noted for its pottery. It BAUEEWITZ 344 BAVARIA lias also two salt-refineries, two breweries, an oil and two corn mills. The COMMUNE is watered, on its E. extremity, bj the Haine, and traversed by the canal from Mons to C onde. A large part of its surface is covered by a morass. Top. 2946. BAUERWTTZ, or BABOROD, a tn. Prussia, gov. of, and 34 m. S. Oppeln, circle, Leobschutz, 1. bank, Zinna. It con tains a R. Catholic church, a chapel, castle, townhouse, and hospital ; is the seat of several public offices, and some manu factures of linen and earthenware. Pop. 2300. BAUGr, a tn. Hindoostan, prov. Malwah, at the confluence of the Guirna and Waugerry, 92 m. E. Baroda; lat. 22 22 N. ; Ion. 74 49 E. It stands on horizontal beds of sandstone, at the base of a range of hills, in a valley, on the road between Malwah and Goojerat by the Oudipoor pass, and is famous for its smelting furnaces and forges. About 3J m. S. the town are four extraordinary cave temples, cut out of the solid rock, and supposed to be of Buddhist origin, though there is no record of the existence of Buddhism in the district. Their walls are sculptured with mythological representations, which, with a single exception, apparently of modern date, have no resemblance, to those of the Brahmins. Pop. 5000. BAUGE, a tn. France, dep. Maine-et-Loire, 19 m. E.N.E. Angers ; agreeably situated in a valley near the Couesuon, which is here crossed by a handsome stone bridge. Some of the houses are good ; but the town is, in general, very irregu lar. An old castle, built by Foulques Nerra, still remains in good preservation, and the hospital is one of the best in the department. Coarse cloth and woollen stuffs are made here. The trade is principally in cloth, wood for carpentry, and cattle. Pop. 3107. BAUGHURST, par. Eng. Hants ; 1020 ac. Pop. 528. BAULEAH,a tn. Hindoostan, presidency Bengal, 1. bank, Ganges, 20 m. N.E. Moorsliedabad. It is a large place, and of some commercial importance ; has a spacious factory ; and is the residence of a commercial officer of the E. I. Company. BAUMBER. or BAMBUJIGH, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 3200 ac. Pop. 371. BAUME, the name of several places in France, espe cially: 1, Baume les Dames [anc. Balmea], an anc. tn. France, dep. Doubs. It is well built, and pleasantly situated, r. bank, Doubs, in a hollow surrounded with vine-clad hills, and close to the canal that connects the Rhone and the Rhine. The prin cipal buildings are the parish church, which is large and hand some, and the spacious hospital. Previous to the Revolution of 1798, there was here a celebrated Benedictine convent, to which only nuns who could exhibit proof of nobility were ad mitted. This convent was founded in the fifth century, and was patronized by the kings of Burgundy. Hats are manu factured here to a considerable extent ; and in the environs are glassworks, ironworks, tanneries, paper-mills, &c. Pop. 2211. 2, Baume les Messieurs [formerly Baume les Moines], a tn. France, dep. Jura, 6J m. N.W. Lons-de-Saulnier. It has a magnificent church, and was formerly noted for its large monastery of Benedictine monks. The neighbourhood is very rugged and precipitous, and much visited by travellers for its romantic scenery. Pop. 771. BAUMEEAN, or BAUMIAN. See BAMIAN. BAUNTON, par. Eng. Gloucester; 1310 ac. Pop. 187. BAURE, BAURUS, or BAURES, a river, Bolivia, rising in Lake Guazamire; lat. 15 18 S.; Ion. 62 30 W.; flowing N.W., and falling into the Itenez or Guapore, on its 1. bank, on the frontier of Brazil, after a course of about 300 in. BAUTSCII, a tn. Austria, Moravia, circle Prerau, 23 m. N.E. Olmu tz. It has a parish church, and its own magis tracy. Pop. (German), about 2500. BAUTZEN, or BUDUISSIN, a tn. Saxony, cap. Upper Lusatia, r. bank, Spree, 32 m. E.N.E. Dresden. It is well built, with large massy houses, broad, straight, well-paved streets, and suburbs adorned with beautiful gardens. It was formerly defended by a strong castle, which is now in ruins. The public buildings of note are, the royal palace of Orlen- burg, now used as public offices ; the cathedral, a large struc ture, built in 1213, with a very lofty spire; a R. Catholic chapter-house, a townhall, and public library ; a gymnasium, a normal school, with a number of churches, hospitals, and other charitable institutions. It has considerable manufac tures of tobacco, woollen, cotton, linen goods, and hosiery, with iron, powder, and paper-mills ; copper and wire works, dyeworks, tileworks, bleachfields, breweries, distilleries, and tanneries. About 7 m. E. by S. from Bautzen is Hochkirch, the scene of a great battle fought in the Seven Years War, 1746. Near the town is the scene of another sanguinary conflict, the battle of Bautzen, fought between the French under Napoleon and the allies, May 21 and 22, 1813. Pop. exclusive of garrison, 8676. BAVARIA [German, Baiern; French, Bavierc], a king dom of Central Europe, in the S. of Germany, composed of two isolated portions of unequal size. The larger portion, comprising about seven-eighths of the monarchy, is included between lat. 47 19 and 50 41 N., and Ion. 8 53 and 13 50 E. ; bounded, E. by Bohemia and the archduchy of Austria, S. by Tyrol, Vorarlberg, and Lake Constance, W. by Wiirtemberg, Baden, Hesse-Darmstadt, and Hesse-Cassel, N. by the states of Ducal Saxony, the principalities of Reuss, and the kingdom of Saxony. The smaller portion, the Pfalz or Palatinate, lies W. from the main portion of the kingdom, and separated from it by Wiirtemberg, Baden, and Hesse- Darmstadt. It is included between lat. 48 57 and 49 50 N., and Ion. 7 6 and 8 31 E.; and is bounded, E. by the Rhine, which separates it from Baden, S. by France, W. by the Prussian Rhine provinces, and a portion of Saxe- Coburg, and N. by Hesse- Darmstadt. Bavaria is estimated to contain an area of 29,657 sq. m and is divided into eight circles (kreisc), which were formerly named after the rivers that watered them ; but an edict of Nov. 29, 1837, gave the circles new names and new bound aries. The following table shows the new and old names of the circles, with their area and population, at the present time : CIRCLES (KRKISE). s A q ^ Population. 1. Fop. per q. m. CHIEF TOWNS. Population. Modern Name. 1. Oberbaiern (Upper Bavaria) 2. Niederbaiern (Lower Bavaria) 3. Pfalz (Palatinate) 4. Oberpfalz (Upper Palatinate), and ) Regen-burg (Katisbon) f 5. Oberfranken (Upper Franconia) 6. Mittelfranken (Middle Franconia) 7. Unterfranken (Lower Franconia), and ) Ascbaffenburg ) 8. Schwaben (Swabia), and Neuburjj Ancient Name. 6,614 4,113 3,226 4,198 2,226 2,793 3,004 3,858 715,238 5-15,421 615,005 468,923 498,943 527,430 587,403 561,184. 4,519,546 108 132 271 112 223 m\ 163 145 Munich (1846) Passau (1845) Spires Ratisbon (1845) Baireuth 113,38-4 10,211 9,240 23,000 17,000 16,000 45,381 26,814 37,000 Unterdonaukreis (Lower Danube). Rheinkreis (Rhine) Obermainkreis (Upper Main) Rezatkreis (Rezat) Untermainkreis (Lower Main) Oberdonaukreis (Upper Danube) ... Anspach Nuniburg....(1846) Wiirzburg (1846) Augsburg 29,637 Mountains. Bavaria is a hilly rather than a mountainous country. A large portion, more especially S. of the Danube, is a plateau country of considerable elevation, and indeed, the whole of the main portion of the kingdom may be de scribed as an upland valley, averaging about 1 600 ft. above the sea level, intersected by numerous large streams and ridges of low hills. On all sides it is surrounded by hills of a greater or less altitude, either quite upon the frontier or only at small distances from it. The whole S. frontier is formed by a branch of the Noric Alps, offsets from which project far into the S. plateau of Bavaria. Besides numerous peaks which this range contains, varying from 4000 to 8000 ft. high, the following may be named as being above the latter number : the Zug- spitze, 9675 ft. high ; the Watzmann, 8732 ft. ; the Hochvogel, 8475 ft. ; the Madlehorn, 8650 ft. Passing along the valley of the Inn and across the Danube, we come to the Bohemian BAVARIA 345 BAVARIA frontier, formed by the Bb hmerwald Mountains, running S.E. to N. W., and lowering down at the valley of the Eger. The highest peaks in this range, are the Rachel, 4743 ft., and the Arber, 4848 ft. Crossing the Eger, we meet with the Picbtelgebirge, presenting the Schneeberg, 3450 ft. high ; and the Ochsenkopf, 3341 ft. W. from this range, and along the frontier of the Saxon ducal territories and Hesse-Cassel, run hills of moderate elevation, under various names,Frankenwald, Rhbngebirge, &c., no peaks of which attain an elevation of more than 3148 ft. The W. mountain boundary of the Ba varian valley is formed N. of the Main by the Spessartwald range, and in the kingdom of Wiirtemberg by the Alb (which see}. The only note-worthy interior ranges are in the N.W., the Steigerwald ; and in the N.E., running in a S.W. direction from the Fichtelgebirge, the Franconian Jura ; a low limestone range, containing numerous remarkable stalactitic caves. The Pfalz or Palatinate, is traversed S. to N. by the N. extremity of the Vosges, the highest peak in this locality being Don- nersberg, 2137 ft. high. Lakes. The lakes of Bavaria are neither very numerous nor of very great extent, though many of them present ex ceedingly picturesque scenery. The larger are all situated on the upper part of the S. plateau ; the smaller within the range of the Noric Alps. The most remarkable of the former are, Lake Ammer, about 10 m. long by 2 broad, 1736 ft. above the sea; Lake \Viirm or Starnberg, about 12 m. long by 3 broad, 1899 ft.; and Lake Chiem, 9 m. long by 9 to 4 broad, 1 651 ft. above the sea. Of the smaller, the more re markable are, Lake Tegner, about 3 m. long, 2586 ft. ; Lake Walchen, 2597 ; and various others, upwards of 2000 ft. above the sea level. Most of the lakes are well supplied with fish. Rivers. Bavaria belongs wholly to the basins of the Danube and the Rhine, with exception of a very small por tion in the N.E. corner, which through the Eger appertains to the basin of the Elbe. The river Danube intersects the main portion of the kingdom W. to E. nearly in the centre, and before it enters the Austrian dominions at Passau, where it is still 925 ft. above the sea, it receives on its r. bank the rivers Iller, Lech, and Isar, which have their sources in the Noric Alps, besides numerous smaller streams ; and on its 1. bank, the Wornitz, Altmuhl, Naab, and Regen, besides other lesser streams. The Main traverses nearly the whole of the N. part of this portion of the kingdom from E. to W., and is navigable for steam vessels from Bamberg to the Rhine. Its principal affluents are the Regnitz, and the Saale. In the Palatinate there are no streams of any importance, the Rhine being merely a boundary river. Climate. If we except the valley of the Rhine, and the valley of the Main in Lower Franconia, Bavaria, even includ ing the Palatinate, in comparison with other German States, is a cold country. The average temperature of the year is about 47 Fah., the same as the E. coast of Scotland. Winter, 30 ; spring, 47; summer, 63; and autumn, 47. Soil and Vegetation, <tc. Bavaria is one of the most favoured countries in Germany, in respect of the fruitfulness of its soil, due no doubt in a considerable degree to the undulating nature of the country, to the numerous streams by which it is watered, and to being nearly wholly composed of Jura limestone. In the plains and valleys the soil is capable of producing all kinds of crops, but not until lately were the natural advantages of the country turned to good account. Ignorance and idleness opposed a barrier to improvement, which it took the utmost efforts of an enlightened Govern ment, aided by the general spread of education, to remove. At length a spirit of agricultural enterprise pervades the kingdom, improved methods of cultivation have been intro duced, and large tracts of waste land have been reclaimed and brought uiider the plough. The principal crops are wheat, rye, barley, and oats ; but in some districts rice, spelt, maize, and buck-wheat, are also raised. To these productions of the soil may be added potatoes (the culture of which is yearly increasing), tobacco, and fruit, of which large quantities are grown in the valleys of the Main and the Rhine. In the circles of Mittelfranken and Sehwaben-Neuburg, the hop plant is cul tivated to a considerable extent, the quantity varying from 30,000 to 40,000 cwt. per annum ; and the vine in the circles of Pfalz and Unterfranken. The latter produces the Francon ian wines ; the best wines of the former are produced neat Deidesheim and Wachenheim. The celebrated Steinwein and VOL. I. Leistenwein are the produce of the S. slope of the Marienberg, near the town of Wiirzburg. The forests of Bavaria, com posed chiefly of fir and pine trees, cover nearly a third of its entire surface, and yield a large revenue to the state ; much timber being annually exported, together with potashes, tar, turpentine, and other products peculiar to these wooded regions. The principal mineral products are, salt, coal, and iron. The first is a royal monopoly, and produces a considerable revenue ; the latter are not wrought to nearly the extent they might be, though a considerable number of ironworks and coal mines are in operation. Black-lead is found in several places, and pretty largely exported, especially to America, where it is used for making crucibles. Porcelain clay, of the finest quality, likewise abounds in some localities, the best being obtained in the district of Wunsiedel in the Upper Main. In the rearing of cattle and sheep, the Bavarians are still far behind. Notwithstanding the extent and excellence of their pastures, the stock, generally, is of inferior quality, and inadequate to the home consumption. Improvement in these respects, however, is now in progress, through the instrumen tality of agricultural and veterinary schools, which were estab lished a few years since, and which distribute prizes to encourage the breeding of stock. Swine are reared in great numbers in all parts of the country, and poultry and wild fowl are abundant. The wolves and bears with which the forests of Bavaria were at one time infested, are nearly extinct. The manufactures of Bavaria are singly very unimportant, being mostly on a small scale, and conducted by individuals of limited capital. The principal articles manufactured are coarse linens, woollens, cottons, leather, paper, glass, earthen and ironware, jewellery, &c., but the supply of the first three articles is inadequate to the home consumption. Of leather, paper, glass, and ironware, pretty large quantities are exported. The optical and mathematical instruments made at Munich, are the best on the Continent, and are prized accordingly. But the most important branch of manufacture in Bavaria is the brewing of beer the universal and favourite beverage of the country. There are upwards of 5000 brewing establish ments in the kingdom, which have been calculated to supply on an average, about 20 gallons a year to every individual of the population. The beer is neither so strong nor so sweet as Scotch ale ; but is of more delicate flavour, and forms a pleasant and wholesome beverage. It is not only consumed in immense quantities in the country, but is sent to all parts of Germany. A large portion of the industrial population maintain themselves by weaving linen, and by the manufacture of articles in wood (some of which are of beautiful workman ship), and by the felling and hewing of timber. Notwith stand ing its favourable geographical position, and other natural advantages, the trade of Bavaria is very limited. The whole amount of import, export, and transit duties collected in 1843, did not much exceed 200,000. Principal exports : corn, timber, wine, cattle, sheep, hogs, butter, salt, iron, leather, glass, hops, fruit, beer, &c. Imports: sugar, coffee, cotton, rice, tobacco, drugs, copper, oil, spices, dye-stuffs, silk, and silk goods, lead, &c. From its position, Bavaria enjoys a considerable portion of transit trade, much facilitated by the good roads that traverse the country in all directions. The means of communication have recently been greatly augmented, by the completion of the Kb nig Ludwig (King Louis) Canal, which connects the Main at Bamberg with the Altmuhl, a short distance above its embouchure in the Danube, thus establishing direct water communication through the Rhine, between the German Ocean and the Black Sea. By the railway from Munich through Augsburg, Niirnberg, and Bamberg to Ilof, Bavaria is con nected with the railway systems of N. and W. Germany. Several other railways are contemplated, but the only one yet opened is that from Augsburg to Kaufbeuren. Education and Art. The department of education is under the superintendence of the Superior Board of Education and Ecclesiastical Affairs. A complete system of inspection is established throughout the country ; the reports of the in spectors, including not only the number and proficiency of the scholars, but also the conduct of the teachers, the state of the buildings, and the nature and extent of the funds available. It is necessary in Bavaria, before admission can be obtained into any higher school, to have passed a satisfactory examina- nation in the lower school. Not only must all candidates for 44 BAVARIA 346 BAVARIA offices under the state pass examinations, but examinations are held of apprentices in trade, who wish to become masters, and even of officers in the army on promotion. The total of both sexes receiving instruction in 1844, was 1,038,203, or about 1 in 5 of the whole population. There are three uni versities in Bavaria; two of which (Munchen and Wiirzburg) are R. Catholic, and one (Erlangen) Protestant. In the first, there were, in 1847, 1471 students; in the second, 521 ; and in the third, 364. There are also several lycea, a number of gymnasia, numerous Latin, normal, and polytechnic schools, besides academies of arts and sciences, fine arts, horticulture, &c. The capital, Munich, contains a library of 600,000 volumes, including 16,000 MSS. ; several scientific and literary institutions, academies, and national societies, and extensive collections of works of art. Bavaria enjoys the honour of having originated a school of painting of a high order of merit, known as the Niirnberg school; founded, about the middle of the 16th century, by Albert Diirer, a native of that town, whose works are little, if at all, inferior to those of his great Italian contemporaries. Hans Holbein, who excelled Diirer in portrait, though far be hind him in historical painting, is claimed by Bavaria, but neither the precise locality nor date of his birth are known with certainty ; Augsburg, Basel, and Griinstadt being sever ally named as the one, and the dates 1495 and 1498 as the other. To these celebrated names have to be added those of the eminent sculptors Kraft and Vischer, both also Bavarians; the former born about 1435, and the latter about the middle of the same century. The masterpiece of the latter distin guished artist is the bronze shrine of St. Sebaldus in Niirnberg, esteemed a marvel of art, for beauty of design, and delicacy of workmanship. The most celebrated of Kraft s works is the remarkable tabernacle in stone, affixed against one of the columns of the choir of the church of St. Lawrence, also in Niirnberg. The restoration of Bavarian pre-eminency, in modern times, in connection with the fine arts, is, in a great measure, if not entirely, owing to Louis, the late sovereign of that kingdom ; whose love of art, and liberal patronage, have rendered the capital one of the most celebrated seats of the fine arts in Europe. Religion. There is no predominant church in Bavaria, but the prevailing religion is the 11. Catholic, professed by 3,000,000 out of about 4,500,000. The principal portion of the remainder are Lutherans, Reformed, and Jews. Although, however, Catholicism be the religion of the state, all others are free ; and all citizens, whatever their creed, are equally admissible to the same public functions and employments, and possess the same civil and political rights. The Articles of the Concordat concluded with the Pope, are subordinate in their application to the fundamental law of the state. By an ordinance of Louis, late King of Bavaria, females are pro hibited from pronouncing any monastic vow until after having passed their 33d year. The ceremony of taking the veil must always be performed in presence of a lay commissioner, in trusted with the power of interrogating the person about to withdraw from the world. The dioceses of Bavaria are, Munich, an archbishopric, with 20,000 florins (1666) ; Bam- berg, also an archbishopric, with 15,000 florins (1250) ; Augsburg, Ratisbon, and Herbstadt, bishoprics, with 10,000 florins (833) each ; Passau, Eichstadt, and Spires, bishoprics, with 8000 florins (666) each. The dean at Munich has 4000 (333), at Bamberg, 3500 (291), in the first set of bishoprics, 3000 (250), and in the second, 2500 florins (208) a year ; and the dignitaries called pr&positi, who rank between the bishop and dean, have the same as the dean. The canons incomes vary from 1400 (116) to 2000 florins (166). These salaries are paid by Government. In Bavaria, marriage between in dividuals having no capital cannot take place without the consent of the principal persons appointed to superintend the poor institutions, who, if they grant such liberty where there are no means of supporting the children that may spring from such marriage, render themselves liable for their maintenance. The law is apparently intended to prevent improvident mar riages, for which it seems certainly better adapted, than for the promotion of morality. People. In personal appearance, the Bavarians are stout and vigorous, well adapted to bear the fatigues of war, and are in general considered as good soldiers. They are indolent, addicted to drinking and to immoral practices, but are brave, patriotic, and faithful to their word. Their manners and cus toms, towards the close of the last century, were described as coarse in the extreme, and strongly marked with the super stitious bigotry of their religious creed ; but since the more general diffusion of knowledge, a great change for the better has taken place. The peasantry are clad in long loose snuff- coloured coats, lined or edged with pink, and studded in front with clusters of silver or white metal buttons, thrown open to display a smart waiscoat of various and brilliant colours ; their hats are ornamented with artificial flowers. Many of the Ba varian females are handsome, lively, and graceful. They dress smartly, and display much taste in their attire. Some of them wear black silk handkerchiefs tied tightly round their heads, decorated with flowers or ribbons ; some caps of silver or gold tissue, and all having their hair neatly braided. German is the language chiefly spoken by the Bavarians ; but they have never been conspicuous for the cultivation of their native tongue. Money, WeiyJits, &c. The Bavarian currency is the same as that of Frankfort, Wiirtemberg, &c. Accounts are kept in florins and kreutzers. The most common Bavarian silvei coins are : Pieces of 3 kr., of which 20 make a florin. 6kr., 10 12 kr., 6 24 kr. (Zwan/iger), 2* Bavarian dollars = 2 florins 24 kreutzers. i = 1 12 =1 Aiist. fl.irin. Prussian coins are very common throughout K. Bavaria. The principal linear measures are the /MSS = -958005 Eng. foot ; die = -911 378 Eng. yard ; and Uafte.r = 6 fuss. Each of these measures, multiplied by itself, gives the square measure of the same name. The principal dry measure is the schcijfel = 764688 Eng. quarter. The basis of the liquid measures is the maass or maasskanne = -235307 Eng. gallon. The eimer (wine measure) is = 60 maasskannen, but the eimer (beer measure) = 64 maasskannen. The principal weights are the pfund (pound) = 1-23459 Eng. lb., and the centner = 123-45 Eng. Ibs., or about 11 Ibs. more than the English cwt. Constitution. Bavaria is an integral part of the Germanic Confederation, the domains inalienable, the crown hereditary. The executive is in the hands of the King. The legislature consists of two chambers, one of senators, and one of deputies ; the former composed of princes of the royal family, the great officers of the state, the two archbishops, the heads of certain noble families, a bishop named by the King, the president of the Protestant General Consistory, and any other members whom the King may create hereditary peers; the latter, of members chosen, one to every 7000 families, or 35,000 persons. The qualifications are, that the candidate have completed his 30th year, that he be a free and independent citizen, that he be a member of the Romish or Reformed church, and pay taxes on property of the value of 765 at the least. The members are chosen every six years, unless dis solved by the King, and are generally convened once a year, but are bound to assemble at least once every three years. Each of the eight circles or provinces has a provincial govern ment, consisting of two boards, one for the management of the police, schools, &c., and the other for the management of financial affairs. The national budget exhibits a favourable state of matters, the receipts considerably exceeding the ex penditure. The full war complement of the army is about 57,000 men; the contingent furnished to the German Confed eration, 35,800. The army is raised by conscription, every man, excepting the nobility and clergy, being liable to serve after the completion of his 21st year. The period of service is six years, and no Bavarian can settle or marry, or accept of any definite appointment, until he has fulfilled his military liabilities. History. The Bavarians are descended of the Boii, a Celtic tribe, who subdued the native inhabitants, and took possession of the country about 600 years before the Christian era. The Boii were in turn conquered by the Romans, who re tained the territory till the fall of the empire, when it was overrun by the Ostrogoths and Franks. The sovereignty of Bavaria was subsequently assumed by Charlemagne, and on the death of that monarch, the kings of the Franks and Ger mans governed it by their lieutenants, who bore the title of Margrave, afterwards converted into that of Duke, and latterly (1623), into that of Elector. In 1070, Bavaria passed into the possession of the family of the Guelphs, and in 1180, it BAVARIA 347 BAYAS was transferred by imperial grant to Otho, Count of Wittles- bach. On the extinction of the direct line of that family in 1777, the Elector Palatine, Charles Theodore, added the Pala tinate, and the duchies of Juliers and Berg to the Bavarian dominions. In 1799, Charles Theodore died without issue. and the Sulzbach branch of the line of the palatinate became extinct with him. The Duke Maximilian Joseph of Deux- Ponts came into possession of all the Bavarian territories. The peace of Luneville (Feb. 9, 1801) put an end to the re newed war, and its most important article the cession of the left bank of the Rhine to France essentially affected Bava ria. Whilst it lost all its possessions on the left bank of the Rhine, and also the lands of the palatinate on the right bank, it obtained, on the other hand, by an imperial edict, an indem nification, by which it gained, in addition to the amount lost, a surplus of 2109 sq. m., and 216,000 inhabitants. The political importance of Bavaria, with respect to Austria as well as to France, was more fully displayed in the war of 1805. When Austria resumed hostilities against France, she required the Elector of Bavaria to unite his troops with the Austrian army, and refused to allow him to remain neutral, which (as the Emperor Francis wrote to the elector, Sept. 3, 1804) France herself only would suffer as long as she should find it expedient. Bavaria, however, did not find it accord ant with its own interests to place itself entirely in the power of Austria. At the beginning of the war, the Elector joined the French with about 30,000 troops, and the peace of Pres- burg annexed to his dominions 10,595 sq. rn., and 1,000,000 inhabitants, and conferred on him the dignity of King ; in return for which, he ceded Wiirzburg, which was erected into an electorate, in the place of Salzburg. The King of Bavaria, like the rulers of Wurtemberg and Baden, now assumed sove reignty over the lands of the nobility of the empire within his borders. When, in 1812, the war between France and Russia broke out, Bavaria sent anew its whole proportion of troops to the French army. Insignificant remains only of the 30,000 Bavarians returned in the spring of 1813. Maximi lian Joseph, notwithstanding this sacrifice, placed fresh troops under the command of Napoleon as the protector of the con federation of the Rhine, when the new campaign was opened, near the close of April. This army also suffered great losses, but distinguished itself with its wonted bravery, under the command of Marshal Oudinot. It suffered particularly in the battles of Luckau and Grossbeercn (1813). In 1805, Bavaria was raised, by the treaty of Presburg, to the rank of a kingdom, with some further accessions of territory, all of which were confirmed by the treaties of 1814 and 1815. In 1 848, the discreditable conduct of the King of Bavaria, in maintaining an open liaison with a wandering actress, who had assumed the name of Lola Montes, but who was in reality the eloped wife of an Englishman, and whom he had created a Bavarian countess, by the title of Grafin von Lansfeldt, had thoroughly alienated the hearts of his sub jects, and quickened that desire of political change which had previously existed. In this spirit the people, early in March 1848, demanded the immediate convocation of the Chambers, the liberty of the press, that judicial trials should be public, that an electoral reform should be granted, and that the army should take an oath to observe the constitution. The King having refused to convoke the Chambers before the end of May, the people flew to arms, attacked and captured the arsenal after a short engagement. They subsequently marched against the royal palace, the military refusing to charge them, although commanded to do so. In this predica ment, the King, finding further resistance useless, yielded to all the demands of the people, who now returned their arms to the arsenal, and afterwards dispersed quietly. Fresh tumults, however, occurred, and on March 21, King Louis announced his resignation of the sceptre to his son, the crown prince Maximilian, the second of that name who has filled the throne of Bavaria. Bavaria contains several very ancient and vener able cities, formerly free towns of the empire, such as Augs burg, Ratisbon or Regensburg, and Niirnberg, in their day of prosperity, centres of wealth and commercial activity, created and fostered by the extensive carrying trade overland from Italy and the East, to the Baltic, and to the great cities of the Netherlands. Nor less remarkable were the Episcopal cities, Wiirzburg and Bamberg, once capitals of ecclesiastical princi palities, but now still further reduced than the imperial towns. Pop. (1849), 4,519,546. (Berghaus ; Huhn; Parliamentary Papers ; Annual Register, <c.) BAVAY [anc. Eagacum], an anc. tn. France, dep. Nord, arrond. of, and 15 m. N.N.W. Avesnes, of considerable mili tary importance in the time of the Romans. It contains the ruins of an aqueduct, amphitheatre, and fortifications, and has manufactures of glass, earthenware, hardware, agricultural implements, hosiery, and leather. The inhabitants are also engaged in agriculture and rearing cattle. Pop. 1605. BAVERSTOCK, par. Eng. Wilts ; 710 ac. Pop. 194. BAVISPE, a tn. Mexico, prov. Chihuahua, in a moun tainous district, near the source of a river of the same name. It used to be classed as one of the Spanish presidios or small forts, built as a protection against the wild Indians. BAW BURGH, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 2070 ac. Pop. 404. BAWDESWELL, or BALDESWELL, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 1310 ac. Pop. 582. BAWDRIP, par. Eng. Somerset ; 1780 ac. Pop. 425. BAWDSEY, par. Eng. Suffolk; 2640 ac. Pop. 468. BAWSEY, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 1090 ac. Pop. 28. BAWTRY, a market tn. England, co. York, W. Riding, on a plain on the Idle, 9 m. S.S.E. Doncaster. It consists of two principal streets, straight, and well kept ; lighted with gas, and amply supplied with water ; houses, chiefly of brick, plastered or stuccoed ; and contains a parish church, a Method ist and an Independent chapel, several Sunday-schools, and a day-school. It has some trade in corn, oak-timber, and stone, which is sent chiefly to London and Hull. The Idle is navigable to the town for small vessels of about 24 tons. Pop. (1841), 1083. (Local Correspondent.) BAXTERLEY, par. Eng. Warwick ; 850 ac. Pop. 228. BAY, a lake, isl. Luzon, S. of Manilla. It is of very irregular form, but measures above 30 m. both in length and breadth. There are several small islands in it, of which the largest, named Tatin, is about llm. long by half that width at its broadest part. It receives the waters of several rivers, but has only one outlet, the Passig, which falls into the Bay of Manilla, at the town, after a course of about 18 m. The lake is deep in many parts, though generally not more than about 16 fathoms ; it contains vast quantities offish, of which daily supplies are sent to the Manilla market. Game is abundant on its shores ; fowls of various kinds, and crocodiles in immense numbers, frequent its banks and waters. (Mallat s Philip- pities.) BAY OF ISLANDS, a large and commodious harbour, N.E. coast, New Ulster [native name, Eaheinomauwe], the most N. of the New Zealand Islands ; about 90 m. S.E. North Cape; lat. (E. point, Cape Brett) 35 10 S. ; Ion. 174 22 E. (R.) It is of easy access ; and, with exception of one rock, called the Whale-rock, the position of which is well ascertained, there are no hidden dangers. It is studded with islands, whence its name, and contains a surface of water of about 10 m. sq. Near the middle of the W. side of the bay is the opening of Kororareka harbour, a secure but shallow port ; better adapted to merchant shipping than to the use of men- of-war. Within the line from Cape Pococke to Cape Brett, between which is the entrance into the bay, there is not more than 30 fathoms of water ; and everywhere, excepting close to the rocks, the bottom is soft and tenacious, affording secure anchorage. The view on all sides is pleasing, exhibiting everywhere an appearance of fertility, but is without any grand, or remarkable features. The bay has been the resort of whalers for many years. (Surveying Voyages of Adventure and Beagle ; Parliamentary Report.) BAYAMO, or SAN SALVADOR, a tn., E. part, isl. Cuba, 60 m. N. W. Santiago, near 1. bank, Cauto, a small stream that falls into the bay called the Canal of Bayamo. It lies in lat. 20 40 N. ; Ion. 76 55 W. ; and carries on a good trade. Pop. variously stated from 7500 to 14,000. BAYAN or BAIN, KHARA-COOLA, a lofty mountain-range in Asia, on the N.E. border of Thibet, a branch of the Kuen- lun, stretching N.W. and S.E. between the sources of the Hoang-Ho and the Yang-tse-Kiang, two of the largest rivers in China. BAYAS [auc. Baiai], a tn. Syria, pash. Aleppo, a little to the S. of the river Deli Chili, and 15 m. N. Iskenderoon. It contains a castle, khan, bazaar, baths, and numerous ruins. There are several villages in its neighbourhood, situated amidst groves of orange and palm trees. (Chesney.) BAYAZID 348 BAYONNE BAYAZID, or BAYEZEED, a tn. Turkey in Asia, pash. of, and 140 in. S.E. Erzeroom; S.W. Mount Ararat, from the base of which it is separated by a lava-covered plain 10 m. in width; lat. 39 24 N.; Ion. 44 20 E; governed by a pasha of two tails, appointed by the pasha of Erzeroom. It is situated on the declivity of a rugged eminence, the sum mit of which is fortified, and surrounded by a wall and ram- porcelain, although the latter is of a purer white. A considerable trade is carried on in horses, cattle, pigs, poultry, fish, and butter, of which latter article large quantities are sent weekly to Paris, either fresh or slightly salted. The All-Saints fair, which lasts two days, is devoted to the sale of horses. Bayeux is of high antiquity, having existed previously to the inva sion of Gaul by the Romans. Pop. 9106- BAYFIELD, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 780 ac. P. 21 . BAYFORD, par. En-. Hertford; 1450ac. P. 357. BAYLEHAM, par. Eng. Suffolk ; 830 ac. P. 275. BAYLEN. See BAILEX. BAYONNE, a seaport tn. France, dep. Basses Py- re ne es; lat. (cathedral) 43 29 30" N.; Ion. 128 30" W. (R.) It is advantageously situated about 4 m. from the sea, at the confluence of the Nive and Adour. The former divides the town into two nearly equal parts, called Great and Little Bayonne, connected by the Mayou and Paneco bridges. Both parts are sur rounded by ramparts, flanked with bastions and broad deep ditches, which can at any time be filled with water. Four gates form the entrances to the town, parts. The town is in a ruinous state ; most of the houses : As a fortified place, Bayonne ranks in the first class. Great are small and ill built, and the streets are in an extremely | Bayonne extends along the 1. bank, Nive, and contains the old filthy condition. Besides the extensive palace of the pasha, ! castle ; Little Bayonne stretches along the r. bank of the same THE CASTLE OF BAYAZID Fn xie , Description de 1 Armenle la Perse, t the town contains two Christian churches, three mosques, and the famous monastery of Kara-Keleeseh, celebrated for its beautiful architecture and antiquity. The inhabitants con sist chiefly of Kurds and Armenians. The former amount only to 300 or 400 families ; the latter to not more than 190 families. Kurdish is the common language of the place. Some trade is carried on with Georgia and Persia, on the frontiers of which the town is situated. Total pop. 5000 (Smith and Dwight s Researches in Armenia?) BAYDON, par. Eng. Wilts ; 3060 ac. Pop. 335. BAYEIYE [men], a tribe of people, S. Africa, inhabiting the banks of Lake Ngami, and the river Zouga. They are a fine intelligent race, much darker and larger than, and in every respect superior to, the Bechuanas. They make canoes, roughly fashioned, out of entire trees ; and so that one end counterbalances the other they do not care for them being straight ; consequently, many are quite crooked ; sails are unknown. They live chiefly on fish, caught by means of neatly-made nets, dyed in tan, made from the bark of the camel-thorn, to prevent them from rotting. (Letter from W.C. Oswell, Esq., in Jour. Soy. Geo. Soc. 1850.) BAYEUX, an anc. city, France, dep. Calvados, 16 m. N.W. Caen; situated on the Aure, in a fertile plain about 5 m. from the sea, and surrounded with excellent pasturage. The principal street is handsome, but most of the others are narrow and irregular. The houses have an antique and singu lar appearance ; the squares are large, and planted with trees. river, and the 1. bank, Adour, and contains the new castle, which is flanked by four towers. A third quarter, properly a suburb of the town, although it does not belong to it, nor even to the same department, is situated on the r. bank, Adour. It is called St. Esprit, and belongs to the department of Landes, com municating with Bayonne proper by a handsome wooden bridge across the Adour. In St. Esprit is situated the citadel, which commands the town of Bayonne, the port, the surrounding dis trict, and the approach from the sea. Bayonne is an agreeable town, built in the Spanish fashion, and presenting a different appearance from the generality of French towns. The houses have lattice-windows and balconies, over which cloth blinds are extended. The shops are open in front like booths, and the Grande Place resembles a Spanish square in all its principal features. The inhabitants are remarkable for the animation and gaiety of their manner, and have an appearance of light- heartedness that contrasts strongly with the more solemn de meanour of their Spanish neighbours. The town is well and substantially built. The main street, through which the high road to Spain passes, contains several handsome edifices. The other streets are narrow, and appear to be more confined than they really are, from the height of the houses, which are gener ally of three or four stories. The Place Grammont, which opens, on one side, on the Nive, and on the other on the Adour and the harbour, is embellished with some fine buildings, amongst which are the custom-house and theatre. This square is the great resort of both the busy and the idle. The only remark The cathedral is a splendid Gothic edifice, with a tower 240 ft. able public building in Bayonne, besides those named, is the " cathedral, a small but elegant Gothic structure. Its arsenal is one of the best and most complete in France. The mili tary hospital, also, is of considerable extent, being capable of high. It contains some interesting statues, sculptured in th 16th century. The church of St. Exuperus, situated outside the town, is supposed to be the oldest in Bayeux. Little remains of the original structure, however, excepting a portion of the square tower. Tn the Hotel de Ville is preserved one of the most interesting relics of the Middle Ages, known by the name of the Bayeux Tapestry, although, in reality, the work of the needle. It is a representation of the events connected with the invasion and conquest of England by the Normans, wrought, in worsted of various colours, in the style of a sam pler. It is 2 14 ft. long, and 20 inches broad, and is divided into 72 compartments, each with a Latin superscription indicating its subject. This singular relic is said, on good grounds, to have been the work of Matilda, Queen of William the Con queror, assisted by her female attendants. Napoleon, during accommodating 2000 invalids. On the bank of the river is an agreeable promenade, carefully kept. On one side is a row of houses painted in various colours, and on the other a noble quay. An avenue of trees occupies the intervening space. A little lower down the river are the dockyards, which are very commodious, and well adapted for the construction both of ships of war and merchant vessels. The walks along the river are much frequented, and present a picturesque variety of cc The women of Bayonne are celebrated for the elegance of their figures. Their attractions have become almost proverbial in France. The harbour of Bayonne is encumbered by a bar across the mouth of the Adour, but, his meditated invasion of England, caused this tapestry to be ! when entered, it affords every security. The rise of flood carried from town to town, and exhibited in the theatres tween the acts, to animate the spectators to a second conquest. An excellent engraving of the tapestry has been made by tide is 13 ft., of neap tide, 8 ft. In 1849, the number of vessels that entered the port was 728, of which 59 were Brit ish ; cleared the same year, 726, of which 43 were British. Stothard, for the London Society of Antiquaries. There are several manufactures in the town, including lace of superior quality, calicoes, serges, table linen, cotton yarn, and hats ; and tanning and dyeing are carried on. The porcelain manu factory, established in 1812, continues to maintain its reputa tion. It employs about 60 workmen, and the articles produced i | are stronger, and stand heat much better than the Limoges i BAYPOOR BEAR LAKE Bayonne Las an exchange, and schools of commerce and navigation. The chief products consist of Andaye brandy, liqueurs, chocolate, ropes, cordage, glass, and refined si .gar. It has a chamber of commerce, and carries on an important trade, not the least portion of which is by smuggling, into Spain. The chief exports are resins, woollen cloths, serges, linens, dyed silks, drugs, cream-of-tartar, wines, brandy, &c. The chief imports are fine Spanish wool, liquorice root and juice, wines, iron, cocoa, olive-oil, millstones, &c. Bay- onne prides itself on never having been taken by an enemy, and its motto is, Nunquam polluta. The bayonet, a well- known military weapon, was invented here, and derives its name from the town. Pop. (1846), 13,850. BAYPOOR, a seaport tn. Hindoostan, in Malabar, prc- sid. Madras, 7 m. S. Calicut; lat. 11 10 N.; Ion. 75 52 E. Tippoo Saib new named this place Sultanpatnam, and intended to make it a commercial emporium. Teak ships of 400 tons are built here, and teak tar is extracted from the chips and sawdust. BAYREUTH. See BAIKEUTII. BAYSWATER, a hamlet, England, co. Middlesex, in the immediate W. vicinity of London, of which it may now be considered a suburb, being only 3 m. from St. Paul s, on the Uxbridge road, on a plain adjoining Kensington gardens. The houses are tolerably well built, principally of brick, the fronts faced with composition ; many of them are in the villa style, and some of them spacious and handsome residences ; well lighted with gas, and water abundant. It contains a church, Episcopal and Wesleyan chapels, and several schools, including three ladies schools, and one connected with the Wesleyans. (Local Correspondent,} BAYTON, par. Eng. Worcester ; 1960 ac. Pop. 468. BAYVILL, par., S. Wales, Pembroke. Pop. 130. BAZA [anc. Basti] , a city, Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 53 m. E.N.E. Granada, in a valley N. the sierra Baza. It has ill-arranged, and, for the most p;irt, crooked and narrow streets, three squares, a collegiate, and two parish churches, town- hall, hospital, college, four elementary schools, civil and ec clesiastical prisons, numerous public fountains, fine gardens, and promenades. Manufactures : hats, linen fabrics, earth enware, and gypsum. The environs yield wine and hemp ; sheep, cattle, and mules are reared ; and an annual fair is held in September. Baza is famed in early Spanish history, more especially in that of Granada. In 1489, it was taken from the Moors by the Spaniards, after a siege of nearly seven months. In 1810, the French, under Marshal Soult, here defeated the Spaniards under Generals Blake and Freire. Pop. 10,133. BAZA DOTS (THE) [anc. Vasates], France, one of the dis tricts into which prov. Guyenne was divided, and now included in deps. Gironde and Lot-et-Garonne. Its capital was Bazas. BAZARUTA, a group of islands, Africa, off the coast of Sofala, just beyond Cape St. Sebastian. They extend in a chain to the N., and, approached from the S., appear like one island. Their N. extremity, forming the cape of the same name, lat. 21 31 S.; Ion. 35 33 E., has a reef projecting from it, which is covered at high water. On the W. side of the N. island there is a cove called Punga Bay, with from 7 to 9 fathoms water, but lined by shoals on each side. There a ship might find shelter from E., S., and W. winds, and pro cure wood and water. (Horsburgh.) BAZAS [anc. Cossio], a tn. France, dep. Gironde, 33 m. S.S.E. Bordeaux ; on a rocky eminence, at the foot of which flows the Beauve. It is surrounded by agreeable promenades, and by ruined walls, the only remains of its ancient fortifica tions. The houses are generally badly built ; the only edifice possessing any architectural interest is the cathedral, a Gothic structure, erected in the 13th or 14th century. It is small, but well proportioned, and remarkable for the number and lightness of its columns, for the purity of its style, and for the delicacy of the principal fa9ade, which is ornamented with numerous statues and sculptures. In the principal porch is a font for holy water, in which, by a curious optical effect, the whole vault of the cathedral is reflected. Some saltpetre, glass, and leather are manufactured ; and a considerable trade is carried on in agricultural produce, and wood for fuel, car pentry, and shipbuilding. Pop. 2325. BAZZANO, a tn. Papal States, 14 m. W. Bologna, on the Samoggia. Pop. 2937. BEACH AMPTON, par. Eng. Bucks; 2110 ac. P 248- BEACHINGSTOKE, BEECHINGSTOKE, or BIRCHAM .STOKE, par Eng. Wilts; 740 ac. Pop. 19<>. BEACHY HEAD, a promontory, England, coast of Sussex, between Hastings and Seaford, about 1 m. S. East- bourn ; lat. 50 44 24" N. ; Ion. 12 42" E. (R.) It is the highest headland on the S. coast of England. In 1828, a re volving light of the first class was erected here, 285 ft. above the level of the sea, visible in clear weather from a distance of 28m. BEACONSFIELD, a tn. and par. England, co. Bucking- ham. The town stands on an eminence, 23 m. W. by N. London, and consists of four principal streets, which meet in a spacious market-place in the centre. The houses are in general well built ; water abundant. The church is a hand some ancient structure, in the Norman style, of stone and flint, with tower and spire. It contains the remains of Edmund Burke, and of Waller the poet, both of whom were interred within its precincts. Beaconsfield has likewise Independent, Wesleyan, and Presbyterian chapels ; a free school, and some small charities. Area of par. 3710 ac. Pop. 1732. BEAFORD, par. Eng. Devon ; 37GO ac. Pop. 713. BEAGH, par. Irel. Galway; 14,581 ac. Pop. 5751. BEAGLE, BANK, ISLAND, and EEEF : 1, An extensive coral sand-bank, N.W. coast, Australia, N.N.W. Buccaneer Archipelago ; lat. 15 19 S. ; Ion. 123 35 E. (n.) It is about 4 or 5 m. in length N.W. and S.E., having part of it dry. 2, An isl., coast of S. Australia, about 60 m. N.N.W. from the entrance into Spencer s Gulf; lat. 34 49 S. ; Ion. 134 49 E. (R.) 3, A reef, in Bass Strait; lat. 39 41 S. ; Ion. 147 42 E. (R.) BEAKESBOURNE, or LYVYNGSBOURNE, par. Eng. Kent; 1200 ac. Pop. 332. BEAL, a vil. and headland, Ircl. co. Kerry, S. side of the estuary of the Shannon, 6 m. W.N.W. Ballylongford. Near the village is an old castle. BEALINGS, two pars. Eng. : 1, Beatings (Great], par. Suffolk; 830 ac. Pop. 377. 2, Bcalings (Little], par., W. of the former ; 410 ac. Pop. 322. BEAMINSTER, a tn. and par. England, co. Dorset. The town is situated in a fertile valley, on the Birt, 14 m. N.W. Dorchester ; houses, in general, good modern buildings ; streets well paved and lighted with gas; water abundant. The church, built on an eminence on the S. side of the town, is a stately structure, with a well-proportioned tower nearly 100 ft. in height. The Wesleyans and Independents have chapels each ; and a new chapel of ease is now (1850) in course of erection. There is an endowed school, several daily and Sunday schools, and an alms-house for eight aged persons. Principal manufactures: sailcloth, iron, tin, and copper wares ; market-day, Thursday. The town was almost entirely destroyed by fire on three different occasions; first, in 1644; again, in 1684; and third time, in 1781. Area of par. 4350 ac. Pop. 3270. BEAR, or BERE ISLAND AND HAVEN, Ireland, Bantry Bay, co. Cork. The ISLAND, which is about 5 m. long and from 1 to 2 broad, is situated on the N.W. side of the bay. Its loftiest summit, 897 ft. high, is in lat. 51 37 30" N. ; Ion. 9 52 12" W. (R.) The HAVEN, situated between the island and the mainland, is spacious and well sheltered, and has suf ficient depth of water for large ships. It has two entrances, one at the E., the other at the W. end of Bear Island. Bere- haven has recently been pointed out as well adapted for a naval and transatlantic packet station. BEAR ISLANDS. 1, An isl., N. Ocean, about 315 m. S. Cape South, in Spitzbergen ; lat. 74 30 N. ; Ion. 20 E. (R.) 2, Three islands in Hudson s Bay, one in lat. 54 24 N. ; Ion. 80 50 W. (R.) ; another in lat. 54 32 N. ; the third in lat. 54 46 N. 3, A group of islands in the N. Polar Sea, off the N.E. coast of Siberia, between lat. 70 and 70 30 N. ; and Ion. 164 and 168 E. BEAR LAKE (THE GREAT), an extensive sheet of fresh water in the N.W. part of N. America, on the Arctic circle, between about 65 and 67 32 N. lat. ; and under the 20th degree of W. Ion. It is of irregular shape, and measures 170 m. N. to S. and E. to W. Its depth has not been ascer tained, but where tried, no bottom was found with 270 ft. of line. The water is remarkably transparent, and appears of BEARN 850 BEAUFORT a light bine colour. It abounds with fish, particularly with a kind known by the name of the herring salmon of Bear Lake. The Bear Lake river flows from it to the Mackenzie river. BEARN [anc. Pagus Bearnensis], an anc. prov. France, now constituting the department of the Basses Pyrenees, with the exception of the arrond. of Bayonne, and part of that of Mauleon. Pau was the capital ; the other towns were Lescar, Oleron, Nai, Orthez, Navarrens, Morlaas, St. Jean, Pied de Port, St. Palais, Sauveterre, Pontac, and Sallies. BEARN (CAPE), a promontory, France, dep. Pyrenees Orientales, on the Mediterranean ; lat. 42 31 N. ; Ion. 3 d 7 30" E. (R.) Its summit is formed by Mount Bcarn, on which a lighthouse of the first class has been erected, 751 ft. above the level of the sea, visible from a distance of 14 m. BEARSTEAD, par. Eng. Kent; 640 ac. Pop. 605. BE AS, or BEYAS [anc. Hyphasis}, one of the great rivers of the Punjab, having its rise at the Ratanki Pass, on the S. side of the Santch Mountains, a branch of the Himalaya system, in lat. 32 21 N. ; Ion. 77 22 E. ; where the former attain an elevation of 13,300 ft. From this point, the Beas flows generally in a S. direction for about 50 m., when it turns W. and N.W., till it reaches the E. margin of the Punjab, a distance of about 90 m., when it proceeds S.S.W. for 75 m. ; forming, throughout that space, the E. boundary, and is then joined by the Sutlej, about 8 m. N.N.E. Sobraon ; lat. 31 10 N.; Ion. 75 2 E. Its entire course is thus about 215m. The Beas has been considered larger than the Sutlej, but it is greatly inferior to that river in the length of its course -, and, according to Burnes, though they have about the same breadth each 200 yards, the Sutlej has the greater volume of water. The united stream, below the point of junction, is called the Ghara or Gharra. BEAS DE SEGURA, a tn. Spain, Murcia, prov. of, and 50 m. N.W. Jaen, in the centre of a fertile vale, near the 1. bank of the Guadalimar. It has two principal and several smaller streets, two squares, a church, town and court houses, an hospital, endowed school, damp and gloomy prison, and the relics of a large old castle. Coarse cloth and linens are manufactured, and dyeing, bleaching, tanning, and oil- express ing, are carried on, Pop. 2695. BEATENBERG (ST.), a mountain, Switzerland, can. Bern ; it rises from the S.E. side of Lake Thun, and has a re markable cave called the Beatenhohle, in which St. Beatus is said to have lived, and worked miracles. On the slope of the mountain stands the alpine village and church, of the same name, about 3500 ft. above the level of the sea. Pop. 974. BEATH, a small par. Scot. Fife. Pop. 487. BEAUCAIRE [anc. Bellum Quadrum], a tn. France, dep. Gard, 14 m. E. by S. Nismes, r. bank, Rhone, opposite Tarascon. It is favourably situated for commerce ; the THE CASTLE OF BEAUCAIRE. Irom France, II Rhone being navigable for vessels of moderate burden, up to the town. From its easy communication with the sea, Beau- caire is frequented by vessels from all parts of the Mediter ranean, and has become the depot of the French trade with Spain, Italy, the coasts of Africa, and the Levant. The town is, in general, tolerably well built, but the streets are narrow and inconvenient. There are no public establishments here, and very few manufactories ; but the suspension bridge across the Rhone, which forms the communication with Tarascon, is the finest work of the kind in France. The river here is about 478 yards wide. Previous to the erection of the present bridge in 1829, the Rhone was crossed by a bridge of boats. Picturesquely situate on a rock stand the ruins of the ancient castle, erected at the period of the first Crusades, and partly demolished in the reign of Louis XIII. Beaucaire is principally celebrated for its great fair, which rivals the fairs of Leipzig and Frankfort, and is held partly in the town, and partly in booths erected on the bank of the river. It commences on the 1st of July, and terminates on the 28th, at midnight. Little business is done, however, till the 15th. About the 20th, buyers and sellers arrive in multitudes, and the town, which has not more than the ordinary accommoda tion for 10,000 inhabitants, receives an influx of 80,000 or 100,000 strangers. Merchants from all parts of Europe, and even from the coast of Africa, attend with their goods ; and almost every kind of article, however rare, is to be purchased here. French, Italians, Spaniards, Greeks, Armenians, Turks, Egyptians, and Arabs, attend with the produce or the fabrics of their various countries; and notwithstanding the short period allotted to the transaction of business, sales are effected to the amount of several millions of francs. A court, composed of ] 2 members, pronounces judgment in all disputed cases. After the 28th, the unsold goods are either re-packed, or disposed of at a low price; and the town sinks into its usual state of quiet. The ordinary trade of the town is principally in olive-oil, wine, and agricultural produce. Steamboats ply to Lyons, and to Toulon, and there is railway communication to Nismes, Montpellier, Alais, Avignon, Aix, and Marseilles. Pop. 8536. BEAUCHENE, a small isl., S. Atlantic, about 34 m. S. of E. Falkland Island ; lat. (S. point) 52 55 42" S. ; Ion. 59 J 12 42" W. (R.) BEAUCOURT, a vil. France, dep. Haut Rhin, 16 m. S.E. Belfort, noted for an extensive factory, employing in the town, and its vicinity, about 3000 persons ; and in which are made all the finest kinds of clock and watch work, screws, locks, &c. Pop. 1 987. Three other places in France have the same name. BEAUDESERT, par. Eng. Warwick ; 840 ac. Pop. 205. BEAUFORT. 1, A group of islands, Gulf of Boothia, N.W. or outer isl. in lat. 69 55 N. ; Ion. 97 5 W. 2, A cape, E. side of Cockburn s Gulf, lat. 67 40 N. ; Ion. 96 W. 3, A cape, Russian America, lat. 69 N. ; Ion. 163 W. 4, A bay, Russian America, on the Arctic Ocean, lat. 70 N. ; Ion. 142 W. BEAUFORT. 1, A tn. France, dep. Maine-et-Loire, 1. bank, Couesnon, 16 m. S. S.E. Angers. It has a parish church with a lofty spire, a college, two hospitals, and a large sailcloth manufac tory. Pop. 3062. Several other places in France bear the same name. 2, A tn. Sar dinian States, prov. Upper Savoy, 10 m. E. Conflans, near the Doro. Has some trade in cattle and cheese. Pop. 3000. 3, A tn. Cape Colony, S. Africa, cap. of dist. of same name, 280 m. N.E. Cape Town; lat. 32 31 S. ; Ion. 22 40 E. 4, A seaport, Cape Colony, dist. Zwellendam, 145 in. E.S.E. Cape Town, at the mouth of the Breede river; lat. 34 25 S.; Ion. 20 E. It is encumbered by a bar, and only admits vessels of 200 tons, but is, notwithstanding, one of the best harbours on the S. coast of the colony, and has a consider able trade. 5, A seaport tn., U. States, N. Carolina; lat. 34 40 N.; Ion. 76 41 W. Contrary to an opinion formerly entertained, the harbour of Beaufort has been found to have sufficient depth for ships. By soundings and explorations, made in February 1850, it was ascertained that there was 22 ft. water on the bar at half flood, a depth of several feet beyond former sound ings. It is, besides, safe and spacious, and admits of direct and easy communication with the ocean. Beaufort is a place of considerable commerce j it has a Methodist church, a court- BEAUFORT 351 BEAUMONT house, jail, and several seminaries. Pop. 1974. 6, A small seaport, U. States, S. Carolina, on an arm of the sea off Port Eoyal, 50 m. S.S. W. Charleston ; lat. 32 26 N. ; Ion. 80 41 W. (R.) BEAUFORT. 1, A dist. Cape Colony, bounded, N. by part of the extensive barren tract recently included within the colony, E. Graaf Reynet, and Uitenliage, S. George, and W. Worcester and Clanwilliam ; area, about 20,000 sq. m. It is divided into three parts, namely, Zwarteberg, Gouph, and Nieweveld. Zwarteberg, lying in the S.W., is adapted for agriculture, is well watered, has extensive orchards and vine yards, and raises the greater part of the grain (chiefly wheat) consumed in the division. Gouph, an extensive elevated tract belonging to the Great Karoo, is chiefly used as a sheep- walk, consisting principally of heath, with very little grass. The want of water is here greatly felt. Nieweveld, com mencing with the mountain range of the same name, stretches N. to the limits of the division. It has some grassy pasture on the mountain-slopes, and is tolerably supplied with water, but the greater part of the surface is, like Gouph, covered with heath. Beaufort, the capital of the division, stands near the source of the Gambia or Great Lion river, about 360 m. E. Cape Town, and has not, as yet, acquired much importance. Bad roads appear to be one of the greatest obstacles to its prosperity. Pop. 5807, of whom nearly a half are coloured. 2, A co., U. States, N. Carolina; area, 650 sq. m. Surface low, and, at times, extensively over flowed. Principal productions: cotton and rice. Cap. Washington. Pop. (1840), 12,225, of which 7050 are slaves. 3, A co. W. Australia, of a triangular form, each of the three sides being about 45 m. in length. Its most prominent physical features are the Glenelg Hills, Emu Hill, and Mounts Walker and Arrowsmith ; the latter at the southernmost point of the county. BEAUGENCY [anc. Belgenciacum, Castrum de Belgency] , a tn. France, dep. Loiret, 16 m. S.W. Orleans; agreeably situated on the side of a hill, r. bank, Loire, which is here crossed by a stone bridge of 39 arches. The town was for- merly surrounded by a wall flanked by towers and bastions, parts of which still remain. In the middle of the last cen tury, the fortifications of the castle extended to the bridge, but they were destroyed in 1767. The square donjon tower of Beaugency, 115 ft. high, is a remarkable structure, and of high antiquity, probably of the 10th or 11th century, though the exact date of its erection is unknown. The articles manu factured here are principally cloth and leather. There are also some distilleries. A considerable trade is carried on in the wine of the neighbourhood, which bears the name of Beau gency, and is the best grown in the Orleanais ; and in brandy, grain, wool, and beet-root sugar. Pop. 4028. BE AUH A ENOIS, a co. Lower Canada,U. States frontier, S.W. Montreal ; length 55m.; breadth 22 m. ; area, 710 sq. m. Both its soil and climate are good ; and it possesses consider able local advantages from its extensive frontage to the St. Lawrence, here called the Lake of St. Francis. The principal villages are, Beauharnois, St. Regis, and Dundee. Pop., consisting of natives, Scotch, Irish, and Americans, 14,164. BEAUJEU, a tn. France, dep. Rhone, arrond. of, and 14 m. N.N.W. Villefranche. It is the oldest town of the Beaujolais, of which it was the capital, and was formerly a place of some importance, being the residence of the feudal lords of that small state. Paper-mills and a cotton-mill, driven by water, are established here, besides several tanner ies. The trade is principally in wine of good quality, grain, iron, leather, and casks, made in the town. It is the entrepot for the trade between the Saone and the Loire. Pop. 2469. BEAUJOLAIS [anc. Bellojoviensis Ager], a dist., anc. prov. Lyonnais, cap. Villefranche. It is now included in the deps. Loire and Rhone. BEAUL1EU, or BEWLEY, par. Irel. Louth; 1228 ac. Pop. 688. BEAULIEU, a tn. France, dep. Correze, 20 m. S. Tulle, agreeably situated, r. bank, Dordogne. The church is en riched with some very remarkable Gothic sculptures. Cutlery is manufactured here, and the wine grown in the neighbour hood is of fair quality. The trade is in wine and ship-timber. Pop. 2151. BEAULIEU is the name of a number of other small towns in France. BE AUL Y, a vil. and port, Scotland, co. Inverness, 1. bank, Beauly, at the head of the loch of same name, and near the embouchure of the river, 9 m. W. Inverness. It consists of one spacious street, with several smaller diverging from it ; houses of stone, and generally well built ; supply of water insufficient. The only building of any note is the N. of Scot land Bank, in the Elizabethan style. The parish church is 2 m. W. from the town, and the Free church about 1 m. in the same direction. There are two schools in the village under the auspices of the latter. An extensive pork-curing establishment, and a large brewery, are here busily employed. The harbour is an excellent one, and has sufficient depth of water for vessels of from 150 to 200 tons. Principal ex ports: timber, potatoes, and grain; imports: coal, lime, salt, &c. The moral condition of the people is good, crime being hardly known among them. At the E. end of the vil lage stand the ruins of its ancient priory, founded in the 13th century. They are surrounded by trees of great size and age, and have a very picturesque appearance. The scenery along the banks of the Beanly is, in many places, of surpassing beauty ; the acclivities on either side being covered with birch and fir, and the edges of the stream lined beautifully with oaks, weeping birches, and alders. Pop. (1841), 560. (Local Corresponden t.) BEAUMARIS, a tn., seaport, and par., N. Wales, isle Anglesey. The town is situated on the W. shore of the Menai Strait, near its junction with the Irish Sea, where it expands into a good roadstead called Beaumaris Bay; lat. 53 16 N.; Ion. 4 5 W. It consists of several streets well paved and clean; houses, in general, good, particularly in the principal street, which is terminated by the ancient castle of Beaumaris, erected by Edward I.; while many modern dwell ings, of very handsome appearance, have lately arisen, and are (1850) in course of erection, in various parts of the town and vicinity. The chief public buildings, exclusive of the churches, are the townhall, a commodious and handsome edi fice, containing a splendid ball-room, and other spacious apart ments appropriated to public purposes ; the county hall, the jail, and a custom-house. The places of worship comprise the chapel of St. Mary, a spacious and elegant structure, in the later style of English architecture, with a lofty square em battled tower; Wesleyan, Calvinistic, Methodist, Independent, and Baptist chapels. Beaumaris has a free, national, and several daily and Sunday schools ; several charities, and be nevolent societies. The harbour is safe and commodious, and may be entered at any time of tide with a moderate breeze. Registered shipping in 1847, 17,219tons; entered for the same year, 36,762 tons; cleared, 48,580. Customs revenue for 1846, 4993, 11s. The town has neither trade nor manufac tures, but is much resorted to in the summer season for sea bathing. It unites with Amlwch, Holyhead, and Langefin. in sending a member to the House of Commons. Registered electors in 1849, 354. Area of par. 327 ac. Pop. of muni cipal bor. and par. 2299; of parliamentary bor. 2680. BEAUME (LA), a vil. France, dep. Ardeche (Vivavais), 6 m. from Aubenas ; picturesquely situated under a mass of basalt occupying the angle of a valley nearly opposite to the junction of the Fontaulier with the Ardeche. The face of the basalt is finely pillared, and the top of it, forming what is called the Causeway of Pont-de-Beaume, is covered with vines. Within the rock is a grotto lined and vaulted with pillars, evidently natural, but so regularly joined and indented as to have all the appearance of a work of art. The causeway seems to be the joint product of the lava streams of several extinct volcanoes. Crowning a lofty peak, between the Fon taulier and Ardeche, stand the unmantled ruins of an old castle, which belonged to the dukes of Ventadour. La Beaume is encircled with terraced gardens, formed on the line of the old fortifications ; and contains numerous antique houses of the 15th and 16th centuries, with some probably of a still [ earlier date. Pop. 1065. Other three villages have the name of BEAUME. BEAUMONT, two pars. Eng. : 1, par. Cumberland; 1470 ac. Pop. 288. 2, Beaumont with- MOKB, par. Essex; 2890 ac. Pop. 451. BEAUMONT, a tn. Belgium, prov. Hainaut, 33 m. S.E. Mons. It owes its name to its site on an elevated table-land, from which an extensive and richly diversified prospect is obtained. The marble of Beaumont is in great demand for ornamental purposes. It has marble saw-works, forges, manu- BEAUMONT 352 CEAUVAIS factures of woollen stuffs, soapworks, breweries, distilleries, productive ridges, covered with timber ; which, however, is and tanneries, and also a considerable trade in articles of mer eery. Beaumont is a place of considerable antiquity. In the llth century it was the capital of a large county belonging to the princes of the house of Croy, and had an old castle, of which only a few walls and towers now remain, William III., King of England, having blown it up on taking the tower in 1691. Pop. 200 i. Other three places in Belgium have the name of BEAUMONT. BEAUMONT, several towns, France: 1, Beaumont-de- Lomagne, a tn., dep. Tarn-et-Garonne, 9 m. S.S.W. Castel- Sarrasin, beautifully situated, 1. bank, Gimonc. The town is of excellent quality. The chief agricultural productions of the seigniory are grain, fruit, vegetables, and maple sugar. Sandstone and limestone are found in the district ; which also contains the quarries that supply the building-stone to Quebec. There is a village of the same name in the seigniory, beauti fully situated on a gentle eminence, and remarkable for its neatness and regularity. It is inhabited by persons of the first respectability. In the vicinity are the celebrated falls of Montmorency. BEAUPREAU, a tn. France, dep. Maine-et-Loire, cap. rrond., in a fertile country, on the Evre, 26 m. S.W. at once remarkable for the regularity of its plan, the neatness Angers. Parts of its former wall, and other defences, still of the houses, and the beauty and fertility of the surround- j remain. The old castle of Beaupreau, on a hill in the vicinity, ing country, which is particularly rich in vineyards. The j has a picturesque appearance. The town possesses one of the square is intersected by a main road, and in the centre is I best colleges of the department. Manufactures: handker- a covered market. The streets run at right angles from the chiefs, linens, flannel, and common woollen stuffs. Trade: square, and are broad and well kept. Manufactures: coarse principally in cotton and woollen cloth, and leather. Pop. cloth, tiles, and leather. A good trade is done in agricul- 2117. tural produce. Pop. 3217. 2, Beaumont-le-Roger, a tn., BEAUPRE ISLANDS, a group in the S. Pacific, be- dep. Eure, 9 m. E. Bernay, near the forest of same name, r. bank, Killc. Cloth manufactories are established here, employing 400 workmen, and producing annually about 1000 pieces, of 21 yards each. The town has also bleachfields and glassworks. Trade: principally in wood, flax, yarn, and cloth. Pop. 1250. 3, Beaumont-sur-Sarthe, or Beaumont-le- Vicomte, a tn., dep. Sarthe, 13 m. S.W. Mamers, in the form of an amphitheatre, on the side of a hill, above the Sarthe, which is here crossed by two bridges. The streets are narrow and crooked, and the town, in general, badly built. It has manufactures of coarse cloth and matting, with worsted and cotton spinning-mills, besides tanneries. The trade is in grain, hemp, thread, honey, wax, poultry, and cattle. Pop. 1893. 4, Beaumont-sur-Oise [Bettus Mons], a tn., dep. Seine-et- Oise, 14 m. N.E. Pontoise, agreeably situated on the brow of a hill, at the foot of which flows the river Oise, here crossed by a handsome bridge. The houses are well built ; and a ruined tower, the sole remains of the ancient castle, overlooks the town. Leather is manufactured to some extent. Trade : principally in grain, flour, and agricultural produce. Pop. 2030. Numerous other places in France, in addition to the above, have the name of BEAUMONT. BE AUNE, a tn. France, dep. Cote-d Or, cap. of arrond., 23 m. S.S.W. Dijon, at the foot of a hill, on the Bouzeoisc. longing to the Loyalty Isles, N.E. of New Caledonia. The most N.E. of the group is in lat. 20 22 S.; Ion. 160 14 E. (R.) BEAUREPAIRE, a vil. France, dep. Isere, 14 m. S.E. Vienne, formerly a place of considerable strength. During the wars of religion, it was besieged on more than one occa sion. It has manufactures of table linen ; corn and fulling mills, and carries on some trade in silk, grain, fodder, and cattle. Pop. 2030. BEAUQUESNE, a tn. France, dep. Somme (Picardy), 5 m. S.S.E. Doullcns. On its square are to be seen the re mains of a castle, built there, in the 13th century, by Philippe d Alsace, Count of Flanders. Pop. 2671. BEAUSSET (LE), a tn. France, dep. Var, 8 m. N.W. Toulon. It has manufactories of soap, olive-oil, linens, casks, and tar ; and some trade in wine, brandy, &c. Pop. 2050. BEAUVAIS [anc. Bratuspantium, Bc.llovacitm], an anc. tn. France, cap. dep. Oise, 43 m. N. Paris, at the con fluence of the Avelon with the Therain, in a rich valley sur rounded by wooded hills. Several branches of the river run through and by the side of the town, forming canals which are of great service to the manufacturers. The houses of the town are badly built, being for the most part of wood, clay, and mortar, but what is wanting in solidity is made up in The houses are well built, the streets spacious, and watered ornament, and the stranger is struck with the prodig: by a fountain. The ramparts are planted with trees, and number of wooden sculptures and statues that decorate their afford an agreeable promenade. The church of Notre Dame exterior. As in most old towns, the streets are narrow, is a handsome edifice, and ranks next to the cathedral of the diocese. The great hospital, however, is the finest building in the town. It was founded in 1443, by Nicholas Rollin, chancellor of Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. In the court of the hospital are some fine remains of Gothic archi tecture. Beaune has also a public library, containing about 10,000 volumes, a very fine public garden, a theatre, public baths, &c. It manufactures cloth, serges, druggets, vinegar, casks, and beet-root sugar; and is noted for its dyeworks, breweries, and tanneries. In the neighbourhood are some excellent orchards. The trade is principally in the wines of Burgundy, of which Beaune exports thirty or forty thousand butts per annum. The wines grown in the district are the best of the ordinary Burgundy. A large trade is also carried on in agricultural produce, grain, provisions, .and cattle. The arrondissement of Beaune contains 10 cantons. Tn the 17th century, Beaune was a flourishing manufacturing town, and had 200 Calvinistic families, who furnished employment to 2000 workmen; but the revocation of the Edict of Nantes having driven the Protestant manufacturers from France, the manufactures fell into decay, and have never been revived. This town is the birthplace of the celebrated geometer, Gas- pard Monge, the chief improver, if not inventor, of Descriptive crooked, and inconvenient. The main street runs E. and W., Geometry, and one of the founders of the Polytechnic School, j and, under five different names, divides the town into two Pop. 10,753. BEAUNE-LA-KOLT.ANDE, a tn. France, dep. Loiret, 1 1 m. N.E. Pithiviers, noted for the quantity of fine saffron, honey, and wax produced in the neighbourhood. Pop. 1118. Other three small places have the name of BEAUNE. BEAUFORT (SEIGNIORY OF), Lower Canada, co. Quebec. The ground on the banks of the St. Lawrence is level, fertile, nearly equal parts. A small portion of the present town is called the city ; it is very ancient, nearly square, and sur rounded by walls two yards thick, strengthened by round towers at intervals. The new town, which is much larger than the city, was formerly fortified, but the fortifications fell into decay after the invention of artillery, and are now replaced by handsome boulevards, which afford agreeable promenades. and well cultivated. In the interior, the land rises into un- ! The ramparts were demolished in 1803, when the town uii- BEAUVAL 353 BEDALE derwent several important alterations and improvements. The cathedral, although a fine Gothic edifice, part of it only has been completed on the original plan. Its choir is the loftiest in the world, the height from the pavement to the roof being 153 ft., 13 ft. more than that of Amiens. The painted glass, executed in the best period and by the most celebrated masters of the art, is particularly rich. The church of St. Stephen has likewise fine painted glass windows, and the facade of the S. transept is remarkable for the richness of its sculpture. The Hotel de Ville is the finest modern building in Beauvais. The Episcopal palace, now the Hotel de Prefot, is an ancient structure, partially fortified during the Middle Ages. In Beauvais there are also a college established in the old Ursuline convent, two hospitals, one for the sick, another for orphans, aged persons and foundlings, a theatre, cavalry barracks, and the court-house, where the sittings of the court of primary resort are held. Before the Revolution of 1793, there were here no less than 26 churches, monasteries, and convents, the greater number of which have been appropriated to secular purposes. The principal manufacturing establish ment of Beauvais is the Royal tapestry and carpet manufactory, famed for the beauty of its productions, and employing about 400 hands. The high price of the articles, however, confines them to the wealthy. Other principal manufactures are flan nels and woollen cloths, and, to a smaller extent, lace, earthen ware, and chemical stuffs. In the neighbourhood are some extensive bleacheries and tanneries, and the dyeworks of Beau vais are in high repute. None of the manufactures, however, can be said to be in a flourishing condition. Printed cottons, for merly made here to some extent, are now superseded by other fabrics. The trade, however, is extensive, a large district being supplied by the town with the articles of ordinary con sumption. Large quantities of corn and other agricultural produce are brought to the weekly market, held on Saturday. Beauvais is a place of great antiquity, having existed under the Romans. One of the most remarkable events in its history is the siege which it successfully stood in 1472, against an army of 80,000 Burgundians, under Charles the Bold. Though ungarrisoned, the citizens boldly closed their gates, and made a most heroic defence. The women particularly distinguished themselves. One of them, Jeanne Hachette, seeing a Bur- trundian planting a standard on the walls, hurled him to the bottom, and bore it off in triumph. In the procession of St. Angadreme, which still commemorates the raising of the siege, the ladies, conformably to an ordinance of Louis XL, lead the way, bearing the banner which La Hachette so valor- ously acquired. Pop. 12,355. BEAUVAL, a tn. France, dep. Somme, 4 m. S. Doullens, on the highroad from Paris to Lille. It is neatly built, has a parish church, and manufactures coarse linen, chiefly pack sheeting. Pop. 2562. BEAVER ISLANDS, a group of five or six islands in Lake Michigan, U. States. The largest, Big Beaver, contains 40 sq. m. BEAWORTHY, par. Eng. Devon ; 6270 ac. Pop. 405. BEBEHAN. See BEHBEHAN. BEBINGTON, par. Eng. Chester ; 5250 ac. P. 5008. B^CAN, par. I re l. Mayo; 15,373 ac. Pop. 5589. BECCLES, a market tn. and par. England, co. Suffolk The town, 33 m. N.N.E. Ipswich, r. bank, Waveney, consists of several well-paved and well-lighted streets, uniting in a spacious market-place ; houses in general well built ; supply of water ample. It has a handsome townhall, a theatre, at present used as a corn exchange ; a jail, a custom-house, and assembly rooms. The church, erected in the 14th century, is a spacious and elegant structure in the later style of English architecture, with a fine freestone tower, and beautiful porch. There are, besides, chapels for Independents, Baptists, Wes- leyans, and Primitive Methodists, also two free schools, one of which has 10 exhibitions at Emmanuel College Cambridge, and various charities. Beccles maintains an active carrying trade in coals and corn coastwise by the Waveney, which is navigable to Yarmouth. A good deal of malting is likewise carried on in the vicinity. Races are held annually on a fine course near the town. The environs abound in beautiful scenery. Area of par. 1740 ac. Pop. 4086. BEC-DU-RAZ, or POINT RAZ, a dangerous promontory, France, coast of Brittany, surrounded with rocks. There is a lighthouse on it ; lat. 48 2 24" N. ; Ion. 4 43 45" W. (R.) VOL. I. ( i BECERRIL-DE-CAMPOS, a tn. Spain, Leon, prov. of, and 10 m. N.W. Palencia, in a fertile valley, intersected by the Canal de Campos, having a central square, six parish churches, a large townhouse, session-house, with attached prison, two endowed schools, an hospital, and numerous fountains. Em ployments : agriculture, and domestic weaving. Pop. 3069. BECHIN, a tn. Bohemia, circle of, and 10 m. S. W. Tabor, 47 m. S. Prague, r. bank, Luschnitz. It has a castle, manu factories of woollen cloth, and a chalybeate spring (temperature 73 Fall.), formerly much frequented. In the neighbourhood is found a singular mineral called the stone of Bechin. P. 2 1 30. BECHUANAS, or BICHUANAS, a nation, S. Africa, in habiting the country N. of lat. 27 S.; and between Ion. 22 and 28 E. They are said to be superior to the Kaffirs in arts and civilization (Liclitenstein], and in personal appearance; their complexion being a brighter brown, and their features more European. They inhabit large towns, their houses are well constructed, and remarkable for their neatness ; they cul tivate the soil, and store their grain for winter consumption. BECKANEER. See BICKANEER. BECKBURY, par. Eng. Salop ; 1640 ac. Pop. 312. BECKENHAM, par. Eng. Kent ; 3820 ac. Pop. 1608. BECKENR1ED, a vil. and par., Switzerland, can. Un- terwalden, pleasantly situated on the 1. bank, Lake Luzern, at the foot of a mountain-range. The parish church, a hand some building, possesses a fine organ. The deputies of the four Waldstatte used to meet here. In the neighbourhood are the remains of the castle of Isenring. Pop. 1314. BECKERMET, two pars. Eng. Cumberland : 1, Becker- met (St. John s], 3030 ac. Pop. 468. 2, Beclcermet (St. Bridget s), 4640 ac. Pop. 630. BECKFORD, par. Eng. Gloucester ; 2650 ac. Pop. 461. BECKHAM, two pars. Eng.: 1, Bed-ham (East), par. Norfolk; 790 ac. Pop. 56. 2, Beclliam (West), par. Nor folk; 780 ac. Pop. 179. BECK1NGHAM, two pars. Eng.: l,par. Notts; SOlOac. Pop. 491 .2, Beclincjliam-with-Sutton, par. Lincoln ; 2200 ac. Pop. 462. BECKINGTON, par. Eng. Somerset ; 1840 ac. P. 1190. BECKLEY, two pars. Eng.: 1, par., cos. Oxford and Bucks; 4370 ac. P. 763. 2, par. Sussex; 5540 ac. P. 1412- BECKTHEIM, a market tn. Hesse - Darmstadt, prov. Rheinhessen, near Osthofen. It has a church and a synagogue, and gives its name to an excellent wine grown in the district. Both coal and iron are worked in the neighbourhood. Pop. 1600. BECKUM, a tn. Prussia, Westphalia, gov. of, and 23 m. S.E. Miinster, cap. circle of same name, on the Werse, which at a short distance from the town, is crossed by a handsome stone bridge. It contains five churches and chapels, and a synagogue ; is the seat of several provincial offices, and has manufactures of linen, together with numerous breweries and distilleries, and four yearly markets. Pop. 2050. The CIRCLE, which has an area of 199 geo. sq. m., is watered by the Werse, Angel, Sterne, and Liese. It has a few heights, as the Stromberg and Mockenberg, but is for the most part flat, and covered witli moors and heathy pastures. Very little corn is grown, but considerable numbers of cattle are reared. Pop. 34,268. BECLAEERE, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. W. Flan ders, ^ m. E. Ypres, with a manufactory of woollen cloths, two breweries, and oil and corn mills. Pop. 2235. BECSKEREK, two tns. Hungary, Banat: 1, Becskerck Nagy, or Great Becskerek, prov. Thither Theiss, co. Torontal, cap. dist. of same name, 1. bank, Bega ; 45 m. S. W. Temesvar, with which it communicates by the Bega Canal. It possesses important privileges as a market town, is the seat of several district offices, and contains a R. Catholic (parish), and a Greek non-united church. Pop. 1 2,000. 2, Becskerelc Kis, or Little Becskerek, co. Temes, and 10m. N.W. Temesvar. It is in habited by Germans and Wallachians. The former have a R. Catholic and the latter a Greek non-united church. BECTIVE, par. Irel. Meath ; 3386 ac. Pop. 602. BEDAF, a vil. Holland, prov. N. Brabant, 12 m. E.S.E. Hertogenbosch, with a church and school, and 600 R. Catholic inhabitants. BEDALE, a market tn. and par. England, co. York, N. Riding. The town, situated in a valley, on the stream called Bedale-beek, which flows into the Swale. 33 m. N.W. York, 45 BEDARIEUX 354 BEDFORD consists chiefly of one principal street, lighted with gas ; houses mostly of brick, and irregularly built. The church, erected in the reign of Edward III., is a spacious building in the early English style, and contains some interesting monuments. The Methodists, Particular Baptists, Wesleyans, and 11. Catholics, have also chapels here. A handsome public building was erected in 1840, containing a suite of assembly rooms, and various other commodious apartments for public purposes. Bedale has an endowed grammar, and two national schools, with numerous charities, including an hospital for six decayed townsmen, and another for six aged persons. Wool stapling is carried on here to a considerable extent, giving employ ment to numerous wool-combers. The adjoining country is famed for its breed of hunters and race horses. Market-day, Tuesday ; and several annual fairs. Area of par. 7070 ac. I op. 2803; of tn. 1250. BEDARIEUX, a tn. France, dcp. Herault, 18 m. N. Beziers, agreeably situated, 1. bank, Orb, which separates it from one of its suburbs. It is well built, the streets con veniently laid out, and is one of the busiest, and most thriving commercial and manufacturing towns of the same size in France. It has manufactures of fine and common cloth, woollen stuffs, and floss silk, worsted and cotton stockings, hats, soap, olive-oil ; tanneries, dyeworks, paper, and glass works, and a brass foundry. It has also trade in wine and brandy. Top. 8722. BEDARRIDES, a tn. France, dep. Vaucluse, beautifully situated, r. bank, Ouveze, which is crossed by a fine bridge, and near the confluence of the Ozeille and the junction of several canals, about 8 m. N.E. Avignon. The environs are very picturesque, fertile, and covered with rich pastures. Bedarrides has a mill for grinding madder. Pop. 1494. BEDDGELERT, or BETHGELKRT, a vil. and par., N. Wales, the former in co. Carnarvon, and the latter partly in Carnarvon, and partly in co. Merioneth. The village is situated in a beautiful tract of meadows, at the junction of three vales, near the confluence of the Glas-Llyn, and the Colwyn, 12 m. S.E. Carnarvon. The scenery in this parish is remarkably wild and picturesque, and derives no little additional interest from the touching story so beautifully versified by Southey, in his ballad entitled The Grave of Bethgelert. Area of par. 26,71 6 ac. .Pop. 1397 ; of vil. 777. BEDDINGHAM, par. Eng. Sussex; 2250 ac. P. 268. BEDDINGTON, par. Eng. Surrey ; 3830 ac. P. 1453. BEDEEKARFEE, a large and populous tn. Central Africa, kingdom, Bornou, 110m. W. Kouka, r. bank, Yeou, which falls into Lake Tchad, about 110 m. to the N.E.; lat. 1 2 45 N. ; Ion. 1 2 47 E. It is the residence of the governor, commonly called here and in other African towns, Sultan. His dwelling, which is large and extremely clean, consists of a spacious quadrangular enclosure, surrounded with mats fixed to high poles. The Arab women of this place are remarkable for their beauty. BEDE-GUNA, a tn. and territory, Central Africa, king dom, Bornou. The TO\VN is 130 in. W. by S. Kouka, and 80 S.S.W. Old Birnie ; lat. 12 17 N.; Ion. 12 3(Y E. The TERRITORY, called sometimes Bedee, lies between lat. 12 13 and 13 T N. ; and Ion. 11 16 and 12 45 E., and is bounded on the N. by the Yeou, which here bends suddenly in that direction. It includes many towns and villages, and pro duces Indian corn, wheat, and cotton. Herds of cattle also are numerous. The principal implement of agriculture, as throughout all Bornou, is a hoe of native iron, and native manufacture. The reaping is performed with a crooked knife, and merely the ears of corn are cut off, and stored in round thatched huts of clay, or matting, raised on wooden blocks above the ground. The grain is cleared from the husk by hand-rubbing, and ground into flour between two stones. The inhabitants of this district are Bornouese, and speak their native language. Although in the centre of the hottest region on earth, Capt. Clapperton and Dr. Oudney found the tem perature so low in this part of Africa in a morning in Decem ber, that the water in their shallow vessels was crusted with thin flakes of ice, the water skins themselves frozen as hard as a board, and the horses and camels shivering with cold. (Denhain and Clapperton s Travels.) BEDFIELD, par. Eng. Suffolk; 1780 ac. Pop. 358. BEDFONT (EAST), WITH-HATTON, par. Eng. Middlesex ; 1890 ac. Pop. 982. BEDFORD, an inland oo. England, cap. Bedford, bounded, N.W. by Northampton, W. by Bucks, S. by the latter co. and Herts, E. by the latter and Cambridge, and N.E. by Hunt ingdon ; area, 296,320 ac., of which about 250,000 are arable, meadow, and pasture. The surface is pleasingly diversified by hill and valley, and presents every variety of soil ; but, on the whole, of about an average fertility. Chalk prevails in the S. division ; while a belt of sand, varying from 1 m. to 5 m. in breadth, extends from Leighton Buzzard, on the S. W. border of the county, to Potton, on the N.E., particularly well suited for horticultural purposes, and for the turnip husbandry. The vale of Bedford, the soil of which consists mostly of clay, is very fertile ; and the meadows on the margin of the Ouse and other streams are verdant and luxuriant, from frequent over flowings. The land is chiefly under tillage, but agriculture is by no means in a very advanced state. On the sandy and chalky soils, culinary vegetables are extensively cultivated for the London, Cambridge, and other markets. The onions pro duced here are reckoned little inferior to the Spanish ; and the cucumbers, which are raised in great quantities, in the open air, are much esteemed. On the clays, beans and wheat are the principal produce ; on the light soils, turnips, barley, seeds, and wheat usually follow each other ; on the loams, beans or pease are generally sown after wheat. The drill is in extensive use, and a good deal of wheat, is dibbled. Cattle and sheep, of indifferent breeds. The stock of the former has been estimated at about 200,000 ; and the produce of wool at 4250 packs. Average size of farms, about 150 ac., mostly held from year to year; average rent of land in 1842-43, 25s. M. per ac. The Ouse, with an exceedingly winding course, W. to E., intersects the county ; besides which, it is watered by the Ivel, and some smaller affluents of the Ouse. Principal manufacture : straw plait for hats, reckoned inferior only to that brought from Tuscany. The county is divided into nine hundreds, and 123 parishes. It returns four members to the House of Commons ; namely, two for the county, and two for the borough of Bedford. Registered electors (1849), for co. 4287; forbor. 1071. Pop. 124,478. BEDFORD, a bor. and market tn. England, cap. Bedford shire, 4(5 m. N.N. W. London ; pleasantly situated on both banks of the Ouse, which is here crossed by a handsome stone bridge of five arches. The streets, the principal one of which is about 1 J m. long, are open, clean, and lighted with gas. In the part called New Town, on the N., there are several new terraces, and rows of handsome houses. Water is abundant. The principal buildings are the five parish churches, one sup plementary church in the large parish of St. Paul, a range of public schools in the early English style, to be afterwards more particularly mentioned ; a large infirmary, a lunatic asylum, and an elegant and spacious chapel, built by the church and congregation over which Bunyan was pastor. There are also public assembly rooms, a sessions-house, a subscription library containing 8000 volumes, and a handsome market-house, lately erected. The principal feature of the town is the Bedford Charity, founded by Sir W. Harpur in 1561, which comprises the ancient grammar-school, a commercial and preparatory school, a girls and infant schools; educating, altogether, with out cost to the parents, about 1200 children. Connected with the grammar-school there are eight exhibitions, of 80 each, to Oxford, Cambridge, or Dublin, tenable for three years. Besides these schools, marriage portions of 20 each are given to poor maidens, premiums of 20 to boys, and 15 to girls, on going out apprentice; benefactions to the same, of 10 each, on the expiration of their apprenticeship ; donations to domestic servants ; 56 alms-houses, handsomely endowed; an hospital for the sustentation, clothing, and educating a limited number of poor children ; and lastly, 500 a year given away in alms. The qualification for the schools is residence and parochial settlement of the parents in one of the five parishes of the town, excepting to the preparatory school, for admis sion to which, simple residence is required. The revenue of this establishment is upwards of 12,000 per annum ; hav ing risen to this amount from a comparatively small sum, through the improved value, in course of time, of the land from which it is derived. There are several smaller charities in the town, the principal of which belong to Bunyan meet ing. These latter amount to upwards of 300 a year, and are, with the exception of 70 to the minister, given to the i poor of the congregation. The public free schools have at- BEDFORD LEVEL 355 BEDOUINS tracted large numbers of residents during the last 20 years. -There was once a large trade done in Bedford in pillow lace, the manufacture of which employed most of the poor female inhabitants ; but this trade has been all but destroyed by the introduction of machinery ; and there is now no staple trade in the town ; but within the last few years, two manufactories of agricultural implements have been successfully carried on, employing about 150 hands. There is a large and increasing market for corn and cattle held on Saturday, and another for pigs on Monday. Bedford has given birth to no very emi nent men, but is identified with two imperishable names Bunyan and Howard. John Bunyan was born at Elstow, a village situate 1 m. S. of the town. It was at Bedford, how ever, that he lived, preached, and was imprisoned. He lived at a house in St. Cuthbert s parish ; preached in a barn fitted up as a chapel, on the site of the new place of worship ; and was imprisoned, some say, in the county jail, and others, in a cell of the old gate-house ou the bridge, probably in both. But the house, barn, and prisons, are all pulled down. There are several relics of Bunyan in the town, the principal of which are, his chair in the vestry of the chapel, and the copy of Fox s Book of Martyrs which he read in prison. The latter is in the county subscription library. It is in two vols. folio, black letter, and has Banyan s autograph in each of the titles, and several verses in his handwriting scattered over the book. John Howard lived at Cardington, 3 m. S.E. the town. He is identified with Bedford by having constantly attended the dissenting places of worship there. Bedford has railway communication with the London and North Western line, by a branch from Bletchly station. Pop. (1841), 9178; believed now (1850) to be about 12,000. (Local Correspondent.) BEDFORD LEVEL, a large tract of low-lying land in England, comprising about 400,000 ac., in cos. Cambridge, Norfolk, Suffolk, Huntingdon, Northampton, and Lincoln, formerly full of fens and marshes, and, in rainy seasons, for the most part under water. Peterborough Fen, which is that part of the Level running into Northamptonshire, and extend ing between Peterborough and Crowland, contains between 6000 and 7000 ac. One-seventh part of the Level is situated in Huntingdonshire. Nearly the whole of the isle of Ely, which forms the N. division of Cambridgeshire, consists of this marshy ground. The S.E. part of Lincolnshire, usually termed Holland, extending to the river Witham on the N., is also included in the Bedford Level. 63,000 ac. are situated in Norfolk ; and 30,000 in Suffolk. It derives its name from Francis, Earl of Bedford, who, in the 17th century, expended large sums of money in attempting to drain this fenny district. There is sufficient evidence to show that this part of the country was formerly dry land, at a much lower level than the present surface, which is formed by sedimentary deposi tions. Various expedients have been had recourse to for the purpose of draining these marshes. Numerous cuts have been made, intersecting every part. Some of these are so large and deep as to serve for navigable canals. In the isle of Ely, the Old and New Bedford rivers are two cuts, running nearly parallel to each other. These are both navigable for upwards of 20 m. In various places, windmills have been erected, which raise the water to the requisite height, to admit of its being conveyed to receptacles sufficiently elevated, by which it may be carried off to its proper channel ; but the expense incurred in draining sometimes exceeds greatly the value of the land reclaimed. In Huntingdonshire, about the latter end of the last century, the tax raised on the land by the conservators, for its drainage, and the preserving of its embankments, was in some instances so great, that the farmers preferred forfeiting their land to paying so exorbitantly for its preservation. In the present day, the art of drainage is better understood than when this stupendous work was first under taken ; but even yet, in many places, the farmer is still liable to have the produce of his grounds carried away by sudden inundations. Great improvements are now, however, con stantly being made in the drainage and embankment of this extensive tract of land. In 1795, an Act was passed for ini proving the outfall of the river Ouse, and for making a cut across the marshes, from Eau Brink to Lynn ; but it was not till 1818 that this important work was commenced. It was completed in about two years, and has proved highly service able. A great part of Bedford Level has been brought under cultivation, and produces grain, flax, and cole-seed, in con siderable quantities ; but there is still sufficient fenny land to yield a rich harvest of wild fowl, in winter, for the London narket. (Elstobb s History of the Bedford Level; Vancouver s Survey of Cambridge; Gough s edition of Camden s Britannia.) BEDHAMPTON, par. Eng. Hants; 32GO ac. Pop. 533. BEDINGFIELD, par. Eng. Suffolk; 1680 ae. Pop. 336. BEDINGHAM, par. Eng. Norfolk; 1140 ac. Pop. 316. BEDIZZOLE, a vil. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, 9 in. E. Brescia, pleasantly situated on a rising ground, in the dist. of Lonato, near the Chiese. It is well built, and has a hand some church ; with forges for the manufacture of nails and agricultural implements, and an extensive silk spinning work. Pop. 2200. BEDJA, a dist. Nubia, lying along the W. coast of the Red Sea, and extending N. from Suakin to Cape Camol, be tween lat. 19 and 22 30 N. It is chiefly inhabited by the Bisharye, a tribe of Bedouins, possessing the usual features and characteristics of that race, but with some of their worst qualities in an aggravated form. They are very savage ; and, t is said, will even rcb the house of the person who receives them as guests. Their food is almost entirely flesh and milk. Much of the former is eaten raw ; the hot Mood of slaughtered sheep is highly relished, but the greatest luxury is the raw marrow of camels. A few of them occasionally visit Derr or Assouan with senna of the best kind, sheep, and ostrich feathers ; taking in exchange linen sheets and Indian millet, the grains of which they swallow raw, as a dainty, and never make into bread. They possess a breed of camels said to be uperior to any other ; and make plundering excursions as far as Dongola, and along the route to Senaar. Bedja is generally mountainous, and is rich in minerals, particularly gold. BEDLES. See BETLIS. BEDLINGTON.par. Eng. Northumb.; 8910ac. P. 3155. BEDMINSTER, par. Eng. Somerset; 4180 ac. P. 1 7,862. BEDNORE, or BEDENORE, a tn. and dist. Hindoostan, Mysore territory. The TOWN is 25 m. N.W. Coondapoor; lat. 13 50 N. ; Ion. 75 6 E. It was formerly of great ex tent and importance, but was ruined by Hyder Ali, who took and plundered it in 1763. It has since, however, greatly recovered, being a convenient thoroughfare for goods. The DISTRICT occupies the N.W. extremity of the Mysore Raja s territories, and extends over the summit of the range of W. hills, some of which are 4000 and 5000 ft. high, which over looks the provinces of Canara and Malabar, and is named the W. Ghauts. The climate is extremely moist, rain falling frequently for nine months in the year; but this redundant moisture only favours the peculiar products of the soil, which consist principally of pepper, betel-nut, sandal-wood, and cardamums. Great numbers of cattle are reared for domestic purposes, but they are small. BEDONIA, a tn. and com. Italy, duchy of Piacenza, 8 m. W. Borgo Tara, at the foot of Mount Selpi ; tolerably well built, and having a church, medical college, and ele mentary schools. The surrounding country is hilly, well wooded, and produces fine fruits, but little grain ; cattle and sheep are reared in considerable numbers. Pop. 5378. BEDOUIN, a tn. France, dep. Vaucluse, 8 m. N.E. Car- pentras, at the foot of Mount Ventoux. It is surrounded by very old walls, of remarkable strength. Bedouin has exten sive potteries, and also spins a good deal of silk. This town was the scene of one of the most atrocious massacres of the revolutionary party. Because a tree of liberty had been sawed across during the night, the inhabitants were con demned en masse, and given up to military execution. Under the direction of Margnet, an apostate priest, the town was set on fire, the public buildings blown up, and 180 of the inhab itants either butchered on the scaffold, or shot while attempt ing to escape. Pop. 2550. BEDOUINS [Arab. Bedawi inhabitants of the desert], a race which, supposed to be derived from Islnnael, the son of Hagar, had its original seat, and forms the great bulk of the population in Arabia. It is not, however, confined to that country, but has spread in all directions, particularly to the E. and W. In the former direction, Bedouins are said to have penetrated as far as China, and are found among the hills of Kurdistan; and in the latter, they have extended almost over the whole of N. Africa, and made its boundless deserts their peculiar domain, forming no inconsiderable part of the whole population, along the shore of the Mediterranean BEDRULE 35G BEERNEM to the Atlantic on the W., Egypt and Nubia on the E., and Negritia on the S. For the peculiar characteristics of the race, which in all countries seem scarcely susceptible of change, see ARABIA. The name is now frequently written Bedawin, plural, Bedaici or Bedaiay. BEDRULE, par. Scot. Roxburgh, 4 in. long, and from 2 to 3 in. broad. Pop. 256. BEDSTONE, par. Eng. Salop; 1200 ac. Pop. 139. BEDUM, a vil. Holland, prov. Groningen, 11 m. W. by S. Appingedam. It is a lively, thriving place, and has an old Calvinistic and a K. Catholic church, a school, and several mills corn, bark, saw, and oil. Pop. 800. BEDWARDINE (ST. JOHN), par. Eng. Worcester; 3730 ac. Pop. 2G63. BEDWAS, par. Eng., S. Wales, cos. Glamorgan and Monmouth. Pop. 800. BEDWELTY, or BVDWELTY, par. Eng. Monmouth; 15,440 ac. Pop. 22,413. BEDW1N (GREAT and LITTLE), a market tn. and vil. England, co. Wilts. GREAT BEDWIN lies on a plain, sur rounded by forest and woodland, 7 m. S.E. Marlborough ; consists chiefly of one main street, straight and well kept ; houses brick, and mostly old ; water abundant. It has a church, a plain, ancient structure, principally of flint, with a square tower ; a Methodist chapel, a Ranters meeting-house, a townhall, built over the market-house ; a school for poor children, established by the Marquis of Aylesbury. The town has a little trade in coals, timber, &c., by the Kennet and Avon Canal, which passes through it ; and some business also is done in malting. Pop. (1841), 2178. LITTLE BEDWIN is situated about If m. N.N.E. the former ; it contains a neat little church, and has a pop. of 580. (Local Correspondent.} BED WORTH, par. Eng. Warwick; 2240 ac. P. 4253. BEEBY, par. Eng. Leicester; 1020 ac. Pop. 115. BEECH AM WELL, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 3730 ac. P. 246. BEEDER, a prov. Hindoostan, chiefly between lat. 17 and 20 N. ; bounded, N. by Aurungabad and Berar, W. by Aurungabad and Bejapoor, S. by Hyderabad, and E. by Hyderabad and Gundwana. It is divided into seven districts, namely, Calberga, Naldroog, Akulcotta, Calliany, Beeder, Nandere, and Patree; and is well watered by several rivers, of which the Godavery and Manjera are the principal. The surface is rather hilly, though not properly mountainous, and the soil generally fertile. Under the old Hindoo Govern ment, Beeder was very populous ; but since its conquest by the Mahometans, it has been comparatively deserted. Three languages, the Mahratta, Telinga, and Canarese, are spoken in this province. Beeder, with the other provinces of the Deccan, was conquered by the Moguls towards the close of the 17th century, in the reign of Aurungzebe, from whose successors it was wrested, 1717, by Nizam ul Mulk, the sovereign of Hyderabad, in the occupation of whose suc cessors it has since remained. BEEDER, or BIDER, a city, Hindoostan, cap. of above province; lat. 17 49 N.; Ion 77 36 E.; 73 m. N.W. Hyderabad. It stands on an open plain ; is fortified by a stone wall, a ditch, and round towers, and is said to have been for merly 6 m. in circumference. About the end of the 16th century, Beeder was founded near the ruins of an old city, by Ahmed Shah Bhamenee, who named it Ahmedabad, aud transferred to it the seat of government from Calberga. BEEDINGr,orSEAL,par. Eng. Sussex ; 3500 ac. P. 1389. BEEDON, or BUDON, par. Eng. Berks; 1930 ac. P.334. BEEFOKD, par. Eng. York, E. Riding; 5270 ac. P. 977. BEEK [a brook or rivulet], several villages, Holland: 1 , A vil., prov. Limburg, 6 m. N.E. Maastricht. It is a pretty large place, has a large R. Catholic and a Calvinistic church ; and two annual fairs. 2, A vil., prov. N. Brabant, 2J m. N.W. Breda; with a church and school. 3, A scattered vil., prov. N. Brabant, 9 m. N.E. Eindhoven, lying round the tri angular market-place, in which is the It. Catholic church, and the townhouse. It has a school, and two annual fairs. Pop. 550. 4, A vil., prov. Gelderland, 7 m. S.S.E. Doesburg; with a R. Catholic church, and school. Pop. 600, all R Catholics. 5, A vil., prov. Gelderland, 3 m. S.E. Nijmegen. It is picturesquely situated on the N. shoulder of a ridge of hills, at the end of which Nijmegen lies. It has two churches, and a school ; and besides agriculture, a considerable number of the inhabitants are employed in washing and bleaching, for which the numerous clear streams in the vicinity render the place peculiarly well adapted. Pop. 640. BEEK is also a name applied to numerous streamlets in Holland, but usually conjoined with a descriptive prefix, as Broedijkerbeek [broad- dike-brook] ; JHuUnbeet [mill-brook], &c. (Van der Aa.) BEELSBY, par. Eng. Lincoln; 1980 ac. Pop. 181. BEEMSTER, a fertile dist. Holland, prov. N. Holland, N. of Purmerende. It consists of a drained part of the sea ; has an area of 18,868 ac., and is divided into Middle, N., E., W., and S. Beemster. In Middle Beemster, the most im portant section, are a Calvinistic and a Baptist church, town- house, and a school ; in W. Beemster are a R. Catholic church and a school, and there is a school likewise in each of the other three divisions. Beemster has two building-yards for vessels, one near either end of the district. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in making Edam cheese. Pop. 3000. BEENHAM, or BENHAM VALENCE, par. Eng. Berks; 1890 ac. Pop. 421. BEER, or BERE, two tns. and four pars. Eng.: 1, Seer- Alston, a small tn., co. Devon, pleasantly situated on a gentle eminence, overlooking the vales of the Tamar and Tavy, 6 m. S. Tavistock, and 7^ N. Davenport. It consists of four prin cipal streets, and a few smaller ; most of the houses are mere cottages, built of clayslate, brick being used for the chimneys only. There is a moderate supply of water, but it is apt to fail in summer. The places of worship are a chapel -of-ease, a neat new building, in the early English style ; and an Inde pendent, Methodist, and Bryanite chapels. There are fivo schools, one of which is endowed for a master and 16 scholars ; another is a dame s school, in connection with the Estab lished church, having about 120 children. The principal sources of industrial employment are mining and smelting, there being some extensive lead and silver mines in the vicinity. Much employment is afforded, also, by picking black cherries in the season, of which there are large orchards in the neighbourhood. Beer- Alston formerly returned two members to the House of Commons, but was disfranchised by the Reform Act. 2, Beer-Ferris, a par. co. Devon, in which the above town is situated; 5850 ac. Pop. 2142. 3, Beer- licgis, a decayed market tn. and par., co. Dorset. The town is pleasantly situated on the small river Beer; houses in general modern, and well built ; abundant supply of water. The church is a large ancient structure, in different styles ; it has a noble roof of carved oak, and contains some interest ing monuments. The other places of worship are an endowed meeting-house of Congregationalists, and a Wesleyan chapel. The parish comprises 7898 ac. Pop. 1394. 4, Beer-Cro- combe, a par., co. Somerset ; 770 ac. Pop. 179. 5, Beer- Hacket, a par., co. Dorset; 450 ac. Pop. 103. BEERBHOOM, or BIRBHOOM [Sanscrit, Viralhumi the land of heroes], a dist. Hindoostan, N.W. extremity of prov. Bengal, between lat. 23 25 and 24 25 N., and Ion. 86 20 and 88 20 E. ; bounded, N. by the district of Bogli- poor, E. by Itajshahy, S. by Burdwan and the jungle Mahals, and W. by Boglipoor and the jungle Mahals. The district is hiUy, and mostly covered with jungle ; the navigable streams are few, and trade is consequently limited. The roads and bridges are kept in good order by the Government convicts, and the prosperity and population of the district are increas ing. The chief productions are silk, sugar, and rice. Mines of coal are profitably worked for the Calcutta market, and to supply the shipping. Iron ore is found in abundance, and smelted in native works. The fuel used is wood ; but though the quantity required is very great, the forests from which it is taken continue undiminished, the power of reproduction rapidly filling up the gaps caused by consumption. Chief towns, Noony, Nagore, and Soory, in the last of which are the head quarters of the judicial establishment. Area, 3884 sq. m. Pop. about 1,267,065. BEERFELDEN, a market tn. Hesse-Darmstadt, prov. Starkenburg, at the source of the Miminling, 23 m. E.N.E. Mannheim. It contains a church, synagogue, and townhouse, and has some manufactures of cloth and hosiery; also, a dye- work, tilework, and oil-mill. Pop. 2600. BEERNEM, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. W. Flanders, 5 m. S.E. Bruges, not far from the canal from Bruges to Ghent, which traverses the commune. It has trade in linen and cattle; and also possesses corn, oil, and malt mills. Pop. 3440. BEEROO 357 IlKIIIJEHAN BEEROO, a kingdom or dist, \V. Africa, N. of Bam- barra. Its principal town, Walet, is large and populous. BEERSE, or BEERZE, a river, Holland, prov. N. Bra bant, an affluent of the Dommel, into which it falls near Boxtel. It is formed by the junction of the Great Beerse and Little Beek. The former originates in a lake within the Belgian frontier, takes a N. course, and receives the Little Beek near Oostel-Beers. Total course, exclusive of windings, from the source of the Great Beerse, 22m. BEERSHEBA, or BERSABA, the site of an ancient tn. or vil., on the S. borders of Palestine, pash. Gaza, 40 m. S.S. W. Jerusalem. It stood on a brook or torrent, now called Wadi Seba, on the N. side of which are still two wells, at some distance apart, circular, and lined with masonry. The larger is 12 ft. in diameter, 44 ft. deep, to the surface of the water, and partly excavated out of the rock ; the less is 5 ft. in diameter, and 42 ft. deep. The water is abundant, pure, and sweet. The ruins, though scarcely any part is standing, can be traced about half a mile along the N. bank of the torrent, and about a quarter of a mile behind it. Beersheba possesses great interest from the frequent mention of it in Scripture, as the place where Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob often dwelt. The name may mean either Well of the Seven, or Well of the Oath, referring to Abraham s offering of seven lambs, on making a covenant with Abimelech. BEERTA. 1 , A vil. Holland, prov. of, and 24 m. E. by S. Groningen. It is an old thriving place, consisting of a row of good-looking farm houses, the corn stacks connected with which are thatched with red tiles. It has a Calvinistic and a Baptist Church, and three schools. The inhabitants are mainly engaged hi agriculture. Pop. 1600. 2, New Beerta, a vil. Holland, 1 m. N.E. the preceding village, with a church, two schools, and a corn and a bark mill. Pop., chiefly agricultural, 700. BEES (ST.), par. Eng. Cumberland ; 69,260 ac. P. 20,123. BEES HEAD (Si.) \_Cliff of Barath], a promontory, England, the most W. point of co. Cumberland, par. of St. Bees, ward of Allerdale-above-Derwent, projecting into the Irish Sea, and forming a conspicuous sea-mark for vessels; lat. 54 30 48" N. ; Ion. 3 38 W. (R.) On the summit of the cliff is a lighthouse, erected in 1718, which exhibits a bright fixed light, visible at the distance of 20 m. in clear weather. BEESBY-iK-THE-MAKSH, par. Eng. Lincoln; 1180 ac. Pop. 157. BEESKOW, a tn. Prussia, prov. Brandenburg, 1. bank, Spree, 18 m. S.W. Frankfort-on-the-Oder. It is the seat of a court of justice; and has manufactures of cloth, linen, and tobacco ; with breweries, tanneries, limekilns, and four annual fairs. A considerable number of the inhabitants live by fish ing, and seafaring occupations. Pop. 3625. BEESf, a vil. Holland, prov. Gelderland, 29m. W.S.W. Arnhem, 1. bank, Linge. It has two churches. The houses are built close to each other, along a street paved with stone, the only one in the like circumstances in all the district. Pop., chiefly agricultural, 1000. BEESTON, several pars. Eng.: 1, par. Norfolk; 3100 ac. Pop. 679. 2, par. Notts; 1440 ac. Pop. 2807. 3, Beeston (St. Andrew), par. Norfolk; 920 ac. Pop. 46. 4, Beeston (St. Laurence), par. Norfolk; 450 ac. Pop. 48. 5, Beeston- Regis, par. Norfolk; 740 ac. Pop. 265. BEESTON, a township, chapelry, and vil., England, co. York, bor. and 2 m. S.S.W. Leeds, with an Episcopal and a Weslsyau chapel. Inhabitants chiefly engaged in the woollen manufactures, and the numerous coal mines in the vicinity. Pop. (1851), 1973. BEETGUM, a vil. Holland, prov. Friesland, 5 m. N.W. Leeuwarden ; with a church and school. It was at one time a coast village, but is now several miles from the sea ; the inter vening land having been gained by means of dikes. Pop. 800. BEETHAM, or BETHOLME, par. Eng. Westmoreland ; 12,850 ac. Pop. 1656. BEETLEY, par. fing. Norfolk ; 1770 ac. Pop. 394. BEETSTERZWAAG, a vil. Holland, prov. Friesland, 10 m. N.E. Heerenveen; with a church, a school, and a corn- mill. Pop. 700. BEFORT. See BELFORT. BEG (LOUGH), a small lake, Ireland, co. Antrim, separated from Lough Neagh by a neck of land, on which is the village of Toome. It is about 4 m. long, 1 to 1 m. broad, contains several islets, and is considered an expansion of the Lower Bann, which flows through it. BEGA, a river, Hungary, which rises on the confines of Transylvania, and, proceeding in a circuitous course, traverses the Banat N.E. to S.W., passing Temesvar, and joining the 1. bank of the Theiss near Teriasvaros, about 6 m. above the junction of that river with the Danube. The navigation of the Bega itself is very imperfect ; but, by feeding the Bega Canal, which runs parallel to it during the greater part of its course, it has greatly added to the trade of this portion of Hungary. BEG-BAZAR, or BEY-BAZAR, a tn. Turkey in Asia, pash. Anatolia ; in a close valley, on three low hills, near r. bank, Kirmir, 52 m. W. Angora. The houses cover the declivity of the hills, and are of two stories, neatly covered with planks. It has some manufactures of carpets ; and, in the vicinity, which is very fertile, the excellent pears sold in Constantinople as those of Angora, are raised. Pop. about 4000. BEGBROOKE, par. Eng. Oxford; 380 ac. Pop. 110. BEGELLY, par., S. Wales, Pembroke. Pop. 1159. BEGEM DER, a prov. Abyssinia, E. from Dembea, about 200 m. in length, and 50 or 60 in breadth. It is more level than the other provinces , and rears large numbers of black cattle, horses, and sheep. The hilly portion of it contains valuable iron mines. In this province is situated the valley of Weekneh, where the relations of the royal family, suspected of a dangerous ambition, are confined. BEGHARMI, or BEGHERMEH, an extensive, but little- known country, E. part of Central Africa, bounded, W. by Bornou, N. by Lake Tchad and the district of Kanem. It is traversed by the river Shary, which discharges itself into the lake just named. The inhabitants are warlike and predatory. BEG-SHEHER, BEY-SHEHER, or BEI-SHEHR, a tn. Turkey in Asia, pash. Karamania, 38 m. S.W. Koniyeh, cap. sanjak of same name. It stands near Lake Beg-sheher, on both sides of the river Bey-sheher, which is here crossed by a stone bridge of seven arches. The principal part of the town is on the N. side of the river, and contains some hand some buildings, among others an old mosque, richly orna mented ; but the place generally is dirty and wretched, and though once possessed of an extensive commerce, appears fast falling to decay. The principal manufacture is common earthenware. Lake Bey-sheher is vaguely described as 32 hours in circuit, and evidently, from the number of tertiary fresh-water shells found about 200 or 300 ft. above its present level, has formerly occupied a much larger space. On the E. it is very shallow, and covered with rushes and reeds. On the W. and N. are some rocky, wooded islands. Large fish are sometimes caught in it. The water is perfectly fresh, though it has been described as salt ; and one traveller even talks of hillocks of salt on its shores. BEGU, or BAGUR, a cape, Spain, N.E. coast of Catalonia; lat. 41 56 38" N. : Ion. 3 14 E. BEGUILDY (UPPER and LOWER), par., S. Wales, Radnor. Pop. 1051. BEHBEHAN, or BABAHAN, a tn. Persia, prov. Fars, cap. dist. of same name, in a very fertile and extensive plain, watered by the Kurdistan, 128 m. W.N.W. Shiraz; lat. 30 23 N. ; Ion. 50 42 E. It is surrounded by a mud wall, flanked with circular towers and bastions ; and at its S.E. corner is a castle, with thick and lofty mud walls, encircled by a deep ditch. The streets contain few good houses, and are lined chiefly by wretched mud hovels, almost in ruins. The bazaar is small, and commerce is almost neglected. Pop. about 4000. The DISTRICT is bounded, N. by the mountain range which separates Irak-Ajemi from the S. provinces of Persia, E. by Shulistan, S. by the Persian Gulf, and W. by Eam-Hormuz and the Chab country. The soil, particularly in the plain, is a rich alluvial deposit ; yielding, in the neighbour hood of the town, a return of twenty-four fold of corn. Near the gulf, cotton and rice are the staple productions. Among fruit trees, are the lemon, orange, pomegranate, and palm. Of these, the last takes the precedence. The whole district is watered by numerous streams ; the principal being the Shemsi- Arab, Kheirabad, and Kurdistan. The climate is so mild, that in January the meadows in the vicinity of the town are covered with the narcissus, appearing spread out like a white sheet several miles in circumference, and diffusing the most BERNARD 358 EEITII delicious fragrance. The inhabitants consist chiefly of Kho- gilu tribes. BEHNARD, a tn. France, dep. Maine-et Loire (Anjou), on the Loire, about 9 m. from Angers. Directly opposite to the town is a little island of the same name, containing a Gothic chapel, embosomed among trees, and founded on a rock, whose uneven surface forms its only pavement. It was for ages a place of pilgrimage ; and was visited by Louis XL, whose faded portrait still hangs within it. The walls, painted with Jleurs de Us and other coats of arms, are hung with the votive chains of Christian slaves who had been rescued from Algiers. Pop. 2712. BEHNESEH, or BAH.VKSE [anc. Oxyrldnchus], a tn. Central Egypt, on the Bahr Yousef, 110 m. S.S.W. Cairo; lat. 28 33 N. ; Ion. 30" 47 E. It was formerly a place of great strength and importance, but has long been going to decay. It is still, however, the residence of a governor; and was, some years ago, garrisoned by Turkish soldiers. In the vicinity are some mounds, covered with sand, on which stand several Sheikhs tombs ; and others, consisting of broken pot tery and bricks. Numerous granitic columns, fragments of cornices, mouldings, and altars, lie scattered about, sufficiently indicating the former importance of the town. BEHRING S STRAIT, SEA, and ISLAND. The STRAIT is the channel that separates the continents of Asia and America, and which connects the N. Pacific with the Arctic Ocean. Its breadth, at the narrowest part, which is between Cape Prince of Wales, on the American coast, and E. Cape in Asia, is about 36 m., but it widens rapidly both to the N. and S. of these points. Its depth, in the middle, varies from 29 to 30 fathoms. On both sides of the strait are several com modious bays ; but the country has a repulsive aspect, being barren and rocky, with but a scanty display of vegetation. The sea here is frozen over every winter, and foggy, hazy weather is almost perpetual ; the sun seldom shining, even in the summer, for more than a few hours, and being often in visible for days together. Whales frequent the strait, and the walrus in vast numbers. The inhabitants on either shore support themselves chiefly by hunting and fishing; but those on the Asiatic side are greatly superior, both physically and intellectually, to those on the American. The strait is called after Vitus Behring, a German, and captain in the Russian navy during the reign of the Empress Catherine, by whom it was first discovered. It was, however, more fully explored by Captain Cook in 1778, who surveyed the whole length of both coasts. BEHRING S SEA, sometimes called the Sea of Kamtchatka, is that portion of the N. Pacific Ocean lying between the Aleutian Islands and Behring s Strait, or between lat. 50 and 63 N. ; having Russian America on the E., and the peninsula of Kamtehatka and the country of the Tchuktchi on the W. BEHRING S ISLAND is in the S.W. part of the above sea, off the E. coast of Kamtchatka ; lat. (W. point) 55 17 N. ; Ion. 165 46 E. (R.) ; the most W. of the Aleutian elutin. It is uninhabited, and is without wood. It has, how ever, several springs of excellent water, and fine cataracts ; and is frequented by various marine animals. On this island, the celebrated navigator, Behring, died under the most un happy circumstances. After undergoing a series of great hardships, his ship was wrecked on this barren island, on November 3, 1741, where neither food nor shelter, of any kind, were to be obtained ; and here, as already stated, the in trepid mariner sunk under his sufferings, both of mind and body, on the 8th of the following month. BEIGHTON, three pars. Eng.: 1, par. Derby; 3070 ac. Pop. 1121. 2, par. Norfolk; 910 ac. Pop. 288. 3, par. Suffolk; 550 ac. Pop. 884. BEIJERLAND, or OLD BEIJERLAND, a vil. Holland, prov. S. Holland, 7 m. S.S.W. Rotterdam. It is the largest and finest village in the country ; has eleven streets, and through the centre a canal, planted on either side with chest nut-trees. It has also a fine market-place and two harbours, frequented by numerous vessels during the flax season. The townhouse, an elegant structure, is built over the canal, and has a pleasing appearance. There are here two churches, a synagogue, some schools, and a branch of the Society for General Good. Pop., chiefly agricultural, 3000. NEW BEIJERLAND is a vil. about 3 m. S.W. the former. It consists of one long, broad street, lined with good houses and rows of elm-trees ; and has a church and school. SOUTH BEIJER LAND, or HITSERT, is a vil. 6 m. S. of Old Beijerland, with a small church and school. Pop. 200. BEILA, or BELA, a tn., S.W. Asia, Beloochistan, cap. prov. Las or Lus, 50 m. from the Arabian Sea; lat. 26 17 N. ; Ion. 66 34 E. ; on a rocky height, W. of which flows tho Pooralee river. The houses are built of mud, and have but the ground floor. The residence of the Jam, or chief of the province, is also mud-built, and surrounded by lofty castellated walls, flanked with circular towers at the angles. Within tho enclosure is a large mosque, covered with a dome. The streets are narrow, but always dry ; and the bazaar, though small, neat and clean. In the neighbourhood are some old Mahometan sepulchres. In the ancient bed of the Pooralee, are fields of vegetables and tobacco, with a large cultivation of rice. Pop. 5000. (Masson s Journeys in Beloochistan. } BE1LAN, a tn. Syria, near the sea, 9 m. S.E. Iskanderoon ; lat. 36 29^ 30" N. ; Ion. 30 17 E. Situated in the gorge of a mountain, from which numerous torrents pour down in winter. One large stream rushes through the centre of the town. The houses, which are of stone, are flat-roofed. The climate in summer is extremely pleasant, though somewhat severe in winter. A great many wealthy Turks have taken up their residence here, attracted by its local and political advantages ; the town being governed by a Sheikh, chosen by the inhabitants from amongst themselves. Pop. between 4000 and 5000. BEILEN, or BEYLEN, a vil. Holland, prov. Drenthe, 10 m. S.S.W. Assen, near the Havelter Aa. It is a thriving place ; has a church and school, and branch of the Society for General Good; a good deal of trade, and two annual fairs. Pop. 500. BEIRA, a prov. Portugal, bounded, N. by provs. Entre- Douro-e-Minho and Tras-os-Montes, E. by Spain, S. by provs. Estremadura and Alemtejo, and W. by the Atlantic ; area, 6480 geo. sq. m. The surface is mountainous, being inter sected by the sierra d Estrella, and traversed by its ramifica tions. The soil, though by no means fertile, produces wine, oil, corn, flax, and different kinds of fruit. Chestnuts are particularly abundant. The mountainous districts afford fine pasture both for sheep and cattle, and are famous for their cheese. Considerable attention is paid to the rearing of bees. The chief rivers are the Douro, Tagus, Aguada, and Mondego. Among the metals are traces both of gold and silver, but the only one wrought is iron. The other minerals are marblo and a little coal. The principal trade is in wine, oil, and fruit. In 1835, Beira was subdivided into Upper and Lower Beira (Beira-alta and Beira-baixa) ; the former containing 298 con- celhos, cap. Viseu; and the latter 29 concelhos, cap. Castel Branco. The heir-apparent of Portugal has the title of Prince of Beira. Pop. 615,238. * BEIROUT. See BEYROUT. BE I SAN. See BETHSHAN. BEI-SHEHR. See BEG-SHEHER. BEITAVEND, a vil. Persia, Irak-Ajemi, about 15 m. N.E. Shuster, at the foot of gypsum hills, surrounded by green fields and meadows, and intersected by a small stream of brackish water. It consists of about 100 neat and clean houses. BEIT-EL-FAKiH [commonly called Beetlrj acJrie], a tn. Arabia, Yemen, 32 m. S.S.E. Hodeidah, and 77 N.E. Mokha ; lat. 14 31 N. ; Ion. 43 41 E. It is without walls, but has a strong castle. It is celebrated for its trade in Mokha coffee, which is chiefly grown in the neighbourhood. Merchants from Persia, Russia, and Turkey visit the town, for the purpose of purchasing the coffee. Pop. 7000. The word Beit, signifying a house or hut, is prefixed to the name of various other small towns and villages in Arabia. BEITH, a tn. and par. Scotland, the former in co. Ayr, the latter in cos. Ayr and Renfrew. The TOWN, which is 15 m. S.W. Glasgow, is situated on terrace ground, sloping W., at an elevation of 300 ft. above the sea level. It consists of one principal street, stretching N. and S., and intersected by several smaller, all tolerably well kept; is lighted with gas, but indifferently supplied with water. The churches and schools are, the parish church, two U. Presbyterian churches, and a Free church ; the parish school, with library attached, U. Presbyterian school, Free Church school, besides private schools, both in town and parish. There are here a thriving savings -bank, a public reading-room, and several benevolent BEITSTAD 359 BELALCAZAR societies. Principal manufactures : tanning, spinning, and hand-loom weaving ; the first employing 150 hands, the second about 200, and the third about 400. A considerable busi ness is also done in seed and grain. The PARISH is about 5 in. in length, and 4 in breadth, mostly in co. Ayr, a small portion only being in Renfrew. Montgomerie, an early and celebrated Scottish poet, author of the Cherry and the Slae, was born at Hazlehead Castle, in this parish. Pop., tn. and par., 5795. (Local Correspondent.} BEITSTAD, or BEDSTAD, a tn. Norway, prov. N. Trondhjem, on the Beitstad Fiord, the most N. arm of the Trondhjem Fiord ; lat. 64 5 N. ; Ion. 11 20 E. Pop. 2700. BEJA [anc. Pax Julia, afterwards Pax Augusta}, a tn. Portugal, prov. Algarve, dist. of same name, 85 in. S.E. Lis bon. It stands on a height in the centre of a pleasant district, is surrounded by walls flanked with 40 towers, and defended by an old fort built by King Denis. It is the seat of a bishop ; and contains a cathedral, four parish churches, six monasteries, a well-endowed hospital, and grammar-school. It has pot teries and tanneries, but the chief employment is rearing bees, goats, and swine. In the neighbourhood are some fine olive plantations. The town was founded by the Romans, and some remains of their works are still visible. Pop. 5284. BEJAPOOR, a large prov. of the Deccan, Hindoostan, comprised partly in the British dominions, and partly in those of the Rajah of Sattara and the Nizam, and containing the Portuguese territory of Goa. It is situated between lat. 15 and 18 N., and Ion. 73 and 78 E. ; bounded, N. by Aurun- gabad, E. by same province and that of Hyderabad, S. by the rivers Wurda and Toombuddra, and the Cavara district, and W. by the Indian Ocean; length, 320 m. ; average breadth, 200 m. The W. districts of this province include part of the Ghauts, in which are numerous fortresses of great natural strength, usually built on isolated eminences, of which the sides are either naturally scarped, or cut perpendicular for 70 or 80 ft. below their upper margin, with only one narrow path leading up to the fortress. The country E. of the Ghauts, although less mountainous, is considerably elevated above the sea. Along the banks of the chief rivers, and other flat and arable tracts, a black soil prevails. The horses reared in this province were highly esteemed by the Mahrattas, and mounted their best cavalry. The Ramoozes, a numerous tribe of rob bers, are spread over the province ; but their chief strongholds are in the hills adjoining the Ghaut Mountains, S.W. of Sat- tara. They are without caste, abstain from eating beef, dis like husbandry and mechanical trades, but are much attached to hunting and other similar recreations. In 1818, the whole of this province, except the part reserved for the Rajah of Sattara, came under British government, and the numerous petty chiefs, though most unwilling to adopt peaceful habits, have been coerced into them. BEJAPOOR [anc. Vijayapura the impregnable city], anc. cap. of the above prov., stands near the r. bank of an affluent of the Krishna; lat. 16 48 N.; Ion. 75 40 E. ; 122 m. S.E. Sattara. From the great extent of its ruins, it would seem to have been one of the largest cities of India, while the splendour of these remains have procured for it the title of the Palmyra of the Deccan. In its present state, it may be described as two cities adjoining each other the fort on the E., and the old city on the W. The former, though much less than the latter, has one entire and regular street, 50 ft. wide and nearly 3 m. long. Groups of houses stand scat tered over its extensive area, and numerous mud hovels are seen stuck up among its massy ruins. Some of the mosques and mausoleums of Bejapoor exhibit specimens of elaborate architectural elegance, but the prevailing character is solid and massive. _ The great dome of Mahomet Shah s tomb is visible at the distance of 14 m.; and numerous spires, cupolas, and minarets, are still standing. The fretwork on the ceil ings and verandahs, the pannels covered with passages of the Koran in bas-relief, and stone trellises pierced with a mesh- work of Arabic characters, are all in the richest style of Oriental sculpture. Among the religious structures is a low Hindoo temple, built in the earliest and rudest style of Brahminical architecture, and popularly supposed to have been raised by Pandoos, a mythological race. There are here some guns of enormous size; one of brass, cast in 1549, capable, it is said, of carrying an iron ball of 2646 Ibs. weight 1 It was intended to send this gun to England, but the state of the roads rendered its removal to the coast im practicable. BEJAR, a tn. Spain, Leon, prov. of, and 48 m. S. Sala manca, near the sierra de Bejar. It is surrounded by a wall, now ruinous, and entered by nine gates ; has narrow, crooked, steep, and dirty streets ; a square, three parish churches, town and court houses, an orphan and four other schools, some pub lic fountains, an old palace, and several convents witli churches attached. The inhabitants manufacture linen and hempen fabrics, baize, and cloth, which they export; and import grain, oil, wool, &c. Pop. 4994. BEJETSK, a tn. Russia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 70 m. N.N.E. Tver, near the Alaloga. It contains 14 churches, two convents, and a theological seminary. Pop. about 4000. BEJIJAH, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 19 m. N.E. Jaen, r. bank, Guadalquivir. It is well built, and has a parish church, two endowed schools, several fountains, and a palace, once a castle, presented at the conquest, by Don Alonso, to the bishops of Jaen. Domestic weaving of linen and hempen fabrics, and tillage, are the chief employments. Pop. 2159. BEJIS, a tn. Spain, Valencia, prov. of, and 35 m. W. Castellon de la Plana, on the skirt of a mountain forming part of the sierra de Javalambra, at the confluence of the rivers Canales and Palanacia. It is indifferently built, with irregular and steep streets ; and has a parish church, townhall, endowed school, and, at the top of the hill, an old castle, originally of Roman construction, but rebuilt by the Arabs ; and, in the civil war, repaired and fortified by the C arlists ; but, as a place of defence, insignificant, being commanded by the neighbour ing heights. Paper, linen and woollen fabrics, wine, and oil, are manufactured and exported. Pop. 3155. BEJUCAL, or BAJUCAL, a tn. and dep. Cuba. The TOWN lies 25 m. S.S.W. Havana; is well built. Pop. 2000. The DEPARTMENT is mountainous,well watered, and fertile, yielding excellent tobacco. Pop. 24,000, of whom 10,000 are slaves. BEKES, BEKESVAK, or BEKESCH, a market tn. Hungary, beyond the Theiss, cap. co. of same name, at the junction of the Black and White Kbrbs, 41 m. S.W. Grosswardein ; for merly strongly fortified, and having three churches. Chief productions : flax, cattle, corn (particularly wheat), wine, and honey, in all of which the trade is considerable. Fuel is scarce. It has an old castle, whence the province obtained its name. Pop. 18,850. ThecouNTY of Be"kes,forming the two districts of Gyala and Ksaba, has an area of about 1040 geo. sq. m., and a pop. of 1 57,000. It is watered by four streams the AVhite and Black Kbrbs (which both flow S.E. to N.W.), the rapid Kbrbs, and Brettyo, which join the former two, and fall with them into the Theiss. The soil, composed of a rich alluvium, is of remarkable fertility, and produces heavy crops, particu larly of wheat ; but the wine is indifferent, fuel scarce, water bad, and the climate, owing to the numerous swamps formed by the inundations of the rivers, very unhealthy. Water melons attain great perfection ; fish abound, and crawfish and tortoises abound in every quarter. BEL A. See BEILA. BELABRE, a tn. France, dep. Indre, 7 m. S.E. Blanc, r. bank, Anglin. Near it are iron furnaces and foundries. Pop. 829. In the old castle of Belabre was strangled the Sieur de Flavi, whose cowardly order to shut the gates of Compi egne led to the capture of Joan of Arc. BELAIA (WHITE), two rivers, Russia:!, A river, Si beria, which rises in the mountains of Okhotsk, in lat. 62 N., and Ion. 138 E., and, flowing W., joins the Aldan. 2, A river which rises in the Ural Mountains, gov. Orenburg, and, after proceeding for about 100 m. S.E., suddenly turns almost due N. for another 100 m., then turns N.E. to Oufa, and con tinuing in the same direction, with numerous small windings, passes the town of Birsk, and ultimately joins the Kama on its 1. bank. Its -principal affluents the Oufa from the N., and the Dioma from the S., both join it at the town of Oufa. Its whole course is about 550 in. Of these, 240 m. are navigable. BELALCAZAR [anc. Cacta}, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 45 m. N.N.W. Cordova, 1. bank, Caganchas. It has a large square, parish church, two schools, small hospital, and an ancient fortress, once of great strength and BELAN BELFAST celebrity. The inhabitants are employed in agriculture, weaving, and expressing wine and oil. Pop. 3380. BELAN, par. Irel. Kildare; 1198 ac. Pop. 286. BELASPOOR, a tn. Ilindoostan, Gurhwal, 1. bank, Sut- lej ; lat. 31 19 N.; Ion. 76 47 E.; 27 m. N.W. Simla, and GO m. N.E. Loodiana. It lies about 1465 ft. above the level of the sea, in a spacious and extremely fertile valley, through which the Sutlej winds. The town is said to be well built, chiefly of flint stones ; to contain about 3000 houses, and to exhibit a regularity rather exceptional in this quarter of India. Baron Hiigel found the streets paved with flint stones about 1 ft. in diameter, and as often loose as not ; dislodging the un steady foot of a luckless wayfarer, and knocking it violently to one side or the other. The natives, however, trip lightly over these stones without ever once stumbling. Towards the S. are three fortresses Bahadurpoor, Futihpoor, and Champa, formerly serving as a retreat to petty tyrants, who plundered both travellers and inhabitants indiscriminately. To this, however, an end has now been put. From Belaspoor, the snowy peaks of the Himalaya are distinctly visible. (Hamilton s ast India Gaz.; Hiigel s Travels in the Punjab.} BELAUGH, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 810 ac. Pop. 161. BELAUN, or BELAWAN, a small isl. Sooloo Archipelago, about 35 m. S. the isl. of Basilan, or about midway between that isl. and the isl. of Sooloo ; lat. (E. point) 6 N. ; Ion. 122 8 E. (R.) It has a high round mount on its W. part, with a long space of low level land, extending several miles to the E. BELBEIS, or BELBEYS, a tn. Lower Egypt, 28 m. N.N.E. Cairo, on the road from that city to Syria a circumstance which gives it considerable importance, in despite of its want of attractions in other respects, being ill built and dirty. It was occupied, in 1798, by the French army, when its fortifi cations were repaired. They arc now falling into decay, the walls being composed chiefly of mud. Belbeis is successor to the ancient Bulastis, from the site of which it is 14 m. distant. In the neighbourhood are traces of the ancient canal that joined the Nile to the Ked Sea. Pop. 5000. BELBROUGHTON, par. Eng. Worcester; 5350 ac. Pop. 1765. BELCASTRO, a tu. Naples, prov. Calabria Ultra, 14 m. N.E. Catanzaro, on a rock. It is the residence of a bishop, has a cathedral, diocesan seminary, and a mont-de-piete. Great numbers of cattle are reared in the neighbourhood. P. 1005. BELCHALWELL, par. Eng. Dorset ; 950 ac. P. 225. BELCH AMP, three pars. Eng. Essex:!, Belchamp- otten, 1600 ac. Pop. 389. 2, Belchamp (St. Paul), 2270 ac. Pop. 731. 3, Belchamp (Walters), 2110 ac. Pop. 698. BELCHFORD, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 2390 ac. Pop. 554. BELCH1TE, a tn. Spain, Aragon, prov. of, and 30 m. S.S.E. Saragossa ; pleasantly situated in a plain, at the foot of a small hill which commands it on the S. and W. Its houses are tolerably well built, and its streets generally wide, though unpaved and indifferently kept ; and it has five squares, of which the principal, Plaza Nueva, is handsome, and occu pies the centre of the town. The parish church is an old structure, built of brick in the Gothic style, with a lofty tower of the same material. Other public edifices are, a capacious townhall, hospital, two chapels, two schools, and a theatre, formerly a church dedicated to St. John. Manufactures : serge, stuff, blankets, horse-cloths, and linen fabrics of vari ous kinds and excellent quality, which are exported to a con siderable extent. On June 18, 1809, an engagement took place here between the French army, under Suchet, and the Spaniards, commanded by General Blake, in which the latter suffered a signal defeat, and lost 9 or 10 pieces of cannon. Pop. 2385. BELCLARE, par. Irel. Galway ; 7847 ac. Pop. 2663. BELEM, a tn. Portugal, prov. Estremadura, r. bank, Tagus, 2 m. S.W. Lisbon, of which it may almost be regarded as a suburb. It has a church and a monastery, built by King Emanuel in 1499; the former a fine building, ir. the mixed Norman-Gothic and Arabic styles, and the latter containing a royal mausoleum. It has also an hospital, high school, and extensive iron-foundry. A remarkable square tower rises out of the Tagus, called the Torre de Belem, which defends the entrance to the port, and whence ships entering the river are boarded by the custom-house officers. Here also are com modious quays, and a quarantine station. In the neighbour hood is the royal palace of Ajuda, with a botanical garden, menagerie, and cabinet of natural curiosities; and the Quinta da ttaiuha, a royal villa, with fine gardens and extensive parks all of which are accessible to the public. Belem is inhabited by many of the nobility and rich citizens of Lisbon. Pop. about 5000. BELEM, or PAKA, a city and seaport, Brazil, cap. prov. Para, 1. bank of the estuary of Kio Para ; lat. 1 34 S. ; Ion. 48 50 W. ; having W. the Moju, E. the Guama, and S. the Acara, a tributary of the Moju, all falling into the Bahia Guajara, on the S. shore of which the city is placed. Belem has straight, and mostly paved streets; its houses are of stone, constructed with solidity and some pretensions to elegance. The principal buildings are, the Governor s palace and the cathedral, magnificent edifices ; but, besides these, the cruci form church of Santa Anna, and the octagonal one of Sao Jofio Baptista, are note-worthy. The city possesses several other churches, a convent, turned into a barrack; an arsenal, an episcopal palace, a seminary, in which Latin, theology, &c., are taught; a college, with chairs of Latin, rhetoric, philosophy, geometry, and French ; a normal, and two primary schools, two convents one of Carmelites, and another of Capuchins ; three hospitals, and a botanic garden rich in plants, both exotic and indigenous. Belem is the seat of the legislative assembly of the province, the residence of the president, of the commander of the forces, and of the Bishop of Para. The port is defended by forts, and is capable of admitting vessels of any size ; the tide rises 10 or 12 ft. The trade of the port is in rice, cacao, cotton, coffee, sarsaparilla, hides, and leather; tapioca, balsam, copaiba, gum-elastic, and Maranham chest nuts. The principal disease is intermittent fever. Pop. 10,000, mostly European. BELENYES, a tn. Hungary, beyond the Theiss, co. Bihar, 32 m. S.E. Grosswardein, on the Black Koros. It is the see of a bishop ; has three churches, a salt-office, and in the vicinity, quarries of beautiful black marble, mines of iron, copper, and silver ores. Pop. 3250. BELESTA, a vil. France, dep. Ariege, 19 m. S.E. Foix ; remarkable for an intermitting spring in its vicinity, which, after flowing 36 minutes, ceases for about 32 minutes before it again begins to flow ; but, after heavy rains, flows continu ously without intervals. Belesta has extensive marble quar ries, and mills driven by water for sawing marble, porphyry, and alabaster. It has also forges and iron-mills, and a con siderable trade in fir timber. Pop. 1212. BELFAST, a seaport tn. and parl. bof. Ireland, co. An trim, 88m. N.N.E. Dublin; lat. 54 36 24" N.; lon.556 12" "W. (n.) ; mostly on low ground on the 1. bank of the Lagan, near its embouchure in Belfast Bay. The river, which is here about 250 yards wide, is crossed by an elegant stone bridge of five arches, each of 50 ft. span. Two other bridges, of less pretension, cross the stream ; one about a quarter of a mile further up, and the third about three-fourths of a mile above the second. The town, owing to its extremely low position, has from a distance nothing imposing in its appear ance; but, on a nearer approach, is found to improve consider ably. The houses, mostly of brick, are well built, many of them very handsome ; the streets are regular, spacious, and cleanly, well macadamized and lighted, and the whole general aspect of the place eminently calculated to make the most favourable impressions, not a little strengthened by the cheer ful stir and activity which prevails in the mercantile quarters ; and which, associated with an enterprising spirit, have ob tained for Belfast the reputation of being the first town in Ireland in commercial prosperity, and second to Dublin only as a port. The places of worship are numerous ; consisting of eight Established churches, 21 Presbyterian, one Indepen dent, eight Methodist, one Society of Friends, and four K. Catholic. Some of these are handsome structures. Of this description is St. Anne s, which is also the oldest ; it has a graceful cupola, and is fitted up inside with rich old mahogany. Trinity Church is a good specimen of the pointed Gothic, with a spire 130 ft. high. St. George s Church is adorned with a beautiful portico, but has little other architectural beauty. At the head of the educational establishments is the Queen s College, a magnificent structure of brick and stone, built at an expense of upwards of 25,000, and opened for the recep tion of students in November 1849. The collegiate body consists of the president, vice-president, and 20 professors ; BELFAST 361 BELFAST and, for the maintenance of the institution, 7000 allowed from the consolidated fund. The other edu establishments are, the Royal Academical Institution a year is 400,000. The other branches of industry iueational vicinity are, two distilleries, 12 breweries, ; i, founded I and corn mills, four large, and several i ilustry in the town or its veral large flour 7 _, large, and several smaller foundries, in 1810 by voluntary subscription, an annual parliamentary | several tanyards, two vitriol-works, a patent felt manufac tory, saw-mills, &c. ; four extensive ship-yards, and yards for manufacturing ropes and sailcloth. Previous to the potato failure, Belfast had also a very large provision trade ; and, since the par tial restoration of that crop, it has begun to revive. The commerce of Belfast is very considerable, and is rapidly increasing ; the most important branch is across the Irish Channel. The tonnage which entered the port, in 1849, showed an in crease of 48,068 tons over that of the previous year. The following statement of the number of vessels and their tonnage, registered at the port, and which entered the harbour since 1842, shows the rapid development of the trade of the port : Registered. Entered. Years. Vessels. Tons. Vessels. Tons. 1842 375 51,278 3349 337,505 1843 359 49,402 3370 363.038 1845 39 1 54,771 3888 492,560 1846 42C C2.094 4168 543,862 1847 464 68,659 4213 538,523 1848 475 71,556 3905 506,953 1849 467 75,441 4080 555021 1851 461 88,860 56H3 684,798 1852 464 78,373 5818 706,840 The tonnage which entered the port in 1849 consisted of Irish coasters, 8474; across channel, 213,827; steamers, 270,921; foreign, 61,799; total, 4080 vessels; 555,021 tons. In the year 17*6, the port revenue was but 1533, in 1850, 29,012. In 1852 the net customs receipts were 355,308, 3s. lid. About 30 steamers ply regularly between Belfast and Lon don, Liverpool, Fleetwood, Carlisle, and White- haven ; Glasgow, Greenock, Stranraer, Ardros- grant of about 1900 a year, which it received latterly, is now san, and Dublin. The chief articles of export are cotton and ;. Trinity Church. 2. St. Anne s Church a. St. George sChuvei I 4. Christ Church. 5. St. M;ilitl-lii sC:ilie.lriil. I 6. R. Academical Institution. 1. House Of (\,n, rl . 2. Barracks. discontinued ; the Belfast Academy, the Lancasterian School, numerous national schools, and private seminaries. The charitable and benevolent institutions comprise the poorhouse, with medical and surgical hospitals attached; the lying-in hospital, the fever hospital, the district lunatic asylum, the deaf and dumb and blind asylum, a new and elegant edifice ; the Ulster female penitentiary, and the union workhouse. The other public buildings are, the commercial buildings, erected on a capital of 20,000, containing a spacious public news room, hotel, offices, and assembly-room ; the white and brown linen-halls, the theatre, the music hall, the new house of cor rection, built on the model of the London prison at Penton- ville, and capable of containing 300 prisoners ; and the new county court-house, a handsome pile, with a Corinthian portico of eight columns, crowned by a colossal figure of Justice. The building occupied by the Belfast Banking Company is also a very handsome edifice. The literary and scientific institutions comprise a natural history society, a royal botanical and horti cultural society, a society for the promotion of knowledge, Ulster teachers association, established for the purpose of im proving the literary character of elementary teachers gener ally, and for securing to them a more adequate remuneration ; Belfast music class, rhetorical society, and Belfast mechanics institute. Belfast is the great depot of the linen trade of the N. of Ireland, as well as the chief seat of the manufactures of both linen and cotton. In 1841, there were, in the town and its linen manufactures, linen yarn, corn, meal, flour, provisions, flax, tow, and horses. Belfast Lough is 13 J m. in length, and 8 in breadth at the entrance, gradually narrowing as it approaches the town. Prior to 1839, large vessels had to lie in the pool or basin of Garmoyle, 4 m. from the town ; but, in 1840, a new channel was formed, having 9 ft. water at low tides, so that vessels drawing 16 ft. water can now come up in neap tides, and those drawing 18 ft., in spring tides. A lighthouse and pilot sta tion have been established at Garmoyle. Belfast is governed by 10 aldermen, one of whom is mayor, and 30 councillors, and returns two members to Parliament. Registered electors, in 1849, 4701. The country around is extremely beautiful. The lough itself is a fine object; and the hills which bound it, and partly encircle the town, are being gradually brought under cultivation, while their slopes are thickly studded with the villas and country houses of the merchants. Belfast is comparatively a modern town, dating from about the beginning of the 17th century, when it was erected into a municipal and parliamentary borough, having the privilege of sending two members to the Irish parliament ; but its pro gress was subsequently much impeded by the civil wars of Charles I., during which it was occupied successively by royalists and parliamentarians. In 1704, one of the first editions or the Bible printed in Ireland was printed here; .nd in 1777 the cotton trade was introduced, from which its uu couon. in io4i, mere were, in tne town ana its ; ana in n 1 1 me cotton traue was mirouuceu, irum wuic mediate vicinity, 25 steam mills for spinning linen yarn; I chief prosperity, it is considered, has arisen. Three railways there are now (1850) upwards of 30, employing many thousand persons; one alone affording constant work to 1200 people, the annual amount of whose wages is about 20,000. This house consumes about 1000 tons of flax yearly, producing 450,000 bundles of yarn, at an estimated value of from 100,000 to 110,000. The same concern produced, besides, during the six months ending June 1850, 55,637 webs of brown linen, and 70,282 webs of bleached linen, each web averaging 60 yards. The number of spindles now at work in Belfast and the neighbourhood, is between 300,000 and VOL. I. diverge from Belfast N. W. the Ballymena and Carrickfergus railway, N.E. the County Down, and S. W. the Ulster railway in connection with the line to Dublin. Pop. (1851), 100,300. (Local Correspondent.) BELFAST, a post township, and seaport, U. States, cap. Waldo co., Maine, beautifully situated at the head of Belfast Bay, W. side of Penobscot River, 38 m. from the ocean. A small river passes near the centre of the town, over which is an extensive bridge. Belfast has a spacious and safe harbour, rarely obstructed by ice, and sufficiently deep for vessels of thr BELFAST LOUGH 362 BELGIUM largest class. It has an extensive trade foreign, coasting, in fishing, and in shipbuilding. Principal exports : lumber end fish. Its tonn. in 1840, was 38.218. As the river above it freezes, Belfast forms the principal mart of the winter trade of Penobscot River. It has an academy, and 21 schools. Pop. (1840), 4186. Also the name of another post township in Alleghany county, with a pop. of 1 646 ; and of several other places in the U. States. BELFAST LOUGH, or CARRICKFERGUS BAY, a navi gable marine inlet, N. of Ireland, between the cos. Antrim and Down. It is about 13J m. long, with a breadth at the entrance of 8 m., gradually contracting to about 2 m. It is almost completely sheltered from the prevailing winds, by heights on the AV. and N.AV. Its banks are studded with woods, parks, elegant mansions, villages, and towns, and at the head of it, where it receives the river Lagan, stands the manufacturing town of Belfast (which see). BELFOKD, a market tn. and par. England, co. Northum berland. The town, which is small and neatly built, is pleas antly situated on a gentle eminence, 9 m. N.E. Wooler, about 2 m. from the sea, and consists chiefly of two tolerably wide streets; houses well built, and principally of stone, water abundant. The church, originally erected in 1700, has been rebuilt, in the early English style, and is capable of contain ing 600 or 700 persons. Market-day, Tuesday, when an ex tensive business in corn is done. Area of par. 9380 ac. Pop. (1850), about 1500. BELFORT, or BEFORT, a tn. France, dep. Haut Rhin, on the Savourcuse, 40 m. S.S.AV. Colmar. Before the year 1648, Belfort consisted of little more than a castle, the forti fications of which were considerably increased by Vauban, who surrounded the town with a wall flanked with bastions. The new town was built inside of the works, and laid out on a regular plan, with spacious, handsome streets. It is now a fortified place of the first class, and has three gates. Its situation at the intersection of six main roads, is highly favour able to its commerce, and makes it an entrepot for the traffic between the interior of France, and Alsace, and Switzerland. Belfort is well built, and has a fine parish church, barracks, townhouse, court of primary resort, public library containing 20,000 volumes, and a communal college. Manufactures : hats, clocks, wax tapers, iron, wire, sheet-iron, &c. There are also breweries, tanneries, and iron furnaces. The prin cipal trade is in grain, wine, brandy, and liqueurs. Iron is extensively worked in the neighbourhood. In 1814, Belfort was besieged by the Allies without success. Pop. 4114. Other two small places in France have the same name. BELG^E, the name given by Cssar to the inhabitants of one of the three divisions of Gaul. This division stretched from the Rhine to the German Ocean, and extended into France as far as the Seine and the Marne. The Belgae were of Germanic origin ; and being very warlike, had succeeded, about A.D. 280, in driving out the Celtae, by whom the country had been previously inhabited. BELGARD, a tn. Prussia, circle, same name, prov. Po- merania, 20m. E.S.E. Colberg, at the confluence of the Leitz- nitz with the Persante, and nearly insulated. It is surrounded with a wall, which, though old, is still strong, has an old castle, three churches, two hospitals, and manufactures of cloth and tobacco. Pop. 3000. The CIRCLE has an area of 320 geo. sq. m., and a pop. of 29,392, of whom only 40 are K. Catholics, and 2GO Jews. The surface is for the most part flat, and the soil, though occasionally inclining to sand, is fertile. BELGAUM, a tn. Hindoostan, prov. Bejapoor, presid. Bombay, dist. of, and 55 m. N.AV. Darwar; lat. 15 52 N.; Ion. 74 42 E. The site of the town is elevated and healthy, having the benefit of the sea breeze ; supply of water abund ant, and of good quality. The fortifications are extensive and complete ; the walls are massy and solid, with a broad and deep ditch, surrounded by an area of 600 yards. The inner area is large, but full of the ruins of native buildings, among which are two ancient temples. In 1818, the fort and town were taken by the British, after a gallant resistance by the Peshwa s forces. The former stands in a plain, and is of great strength and extent. Its ramparts are faced with stone, flanked by massy round bastions, and protected by an admir able wet ditch cut out of the rock. The soil of the district, though barren in dry weather, becomes very fertile during the rainy season, which lasts for six months. From the salubrity of the climate, and the purity of the water, it has been selected as a permanent military station. Pop. of tn. 7652. BELGENT1ER, a small tn. France, dep. Var, arrond. of, and about 14 m. N.N.AV. Toulon. It is a place of great an tiquity, and Roman remains have been found in its vicinity. Its manufactures consist of woollen stuffs, paper, and leather ; and it has some trade in wine and olives. Pop. 1320. BELGERN, a tn. Prussia, prov. Saxony, 1. bank, Elbe, circle of, and 7 m. S.E. Torgau. It has a church, an hospital, and townhouse. The inhabitants live chiefly by agriculture, including that of the vine, the rearing of cattle, and traffic on the Elbe. Their general and cattle markets are considerable. Pop. 2850. BELGIOJOSO, a tn. Austrian Italy, cap. dist. of same name, gov. Milan, prov. and 8 m. S. by E. Pavia. It is situated in a beautiful and remarkably fertile plain, between the Po and the Olona, from each of which it is about 1 m. distant. It is well built, and contains a parish and an auxiliary church. The old castle, in which Francis I. was temporarily lodged after being taken prisoner at the battle of Pavia, has been converted into a magnificent chateau, surrounded by fine gardens. Belgiojoso has an important annual fair, which lasts three days. Pop. 3383. BELGIUM [French, Belgique; German, Bt lgien], a king dom in the W. of Central Europe, between kt. 49 30 and 51 30 N., and Ion. 2 35 and 6 7 E. ; bounded, N. by Hol land, N.AV. by the N. Sea or German Ocean, W. and S. by France, and E. by the duchy of Luxembourg, Rhenish Prussia, and Dutch Limburg; greatest length, N.AV. to S.E., 165 m.; greatest breadth, N. to S., 120 m. ; area, about 11,400 sq. m. Belgium, in shape, resembles a triangle, which has its vertex in the AV. ; the base resting on Germany on the E., the shorter side facing Holland and the sea, and the larger forming the frontier of France. For administrative purposes, it is divided into nine provinces Antwerp, S. Brabant, E. Flanders, AV. Flanders, Hainaut, Liege, Limburg, Luxembourg, and Namur. These provinces do not differ much in area, and are so ar ranged as to form a compact and commodious division of the kingdom; S. Brabant, which, from containing Brussels, the capital, may be considered the metropolitan province, occu pying the centre, while the others cluster round, and, with exception of the extreme provinces of Luxembourg and AV. Flanders, actually touch it. Physical Features. A general idea of the surface of the country may be obtained by regarding it as an inclined plane, somewhat rugged, and considerably elevated in the S.E., from which it slopes, more or less gradually, N. and AV. till it sinks into low plains, only a few feet above the level of the sea. The elevated districts are formed by ramifications of the Ardennes, which, entering Belgium from France, stretch along the S. of Namur, occupy the greater part of Luxembourg, and attain their culminating point in the S.E. of Liege, at Stavelot, in the neighbourhood of Spa, where the height exceeds 2000 ft. The rocks appear to rest on primary formations; but those which reach the surface generally consist of slate, old red sandstone, and mountain limestone. Proceeding N.AV., in the direction of the dip, these rocks take a cover, and the coal formation becomes fully developed. This coal field is a continuation of that of the N. of France, and stretches through Belgium in a N.E. direction, occupying the greater part of the province of Hainaut and a considerable part of that of Liege, and skirting the provinces of Namur and Luxembourg. It con tains numerous workable seams, both of coal and iron. N. and W., beyond the limits of this coal field, a more recent formation is found, covered by deep beds of clay and sand, the former prevailing more in the interior, and the latter near the coast, where it has been drifted into hillocks or downs, and forms the only barrier against the encroachments of the sea. Some of the clay in this district is fit for the manufacture of fine pottery ; but the greater part of it is fit only for coarse ware, or for bricks. In accordance with the general slope of the surface already mentioned, the main streams of Belgium have a N. direction ; and the whole country lies within the basin of the German Ocean. In the S.E., where the surface is ele vated and broken, numerous torrents descend with rapidity ; and, becoming confined within rocky, precipitous, and richly wooded banks, often furnish, if not the grandest, the most picturesque and enchanting of landscapes. On reaching the BELGIUM 363 BELGIUM lower country tlieir speed is slackened, and their augmented volume moves along in a slow winding course. Only two of them the Meuse and the Scheldt have a magnitude which entitles them to the name of rivers ; but so important are these two in themselves, and so numerous their affluents, that TIO country in Europe is better supplied with water communi cation. Besides the Scheldt or Schelde, and Meuse or Maas, the navigable streams are, the Ambleve, Denier, Dender, Darme, Dyle, Lys, Great Nethe, Little Nethe, Ourthe, Rupel, Sambre, Yperlee, and Yser. The climate of Belgium bears a considerable resemblance to that of the same latitudes in England. Though subject to sudden change, it is, on the whole, temperate and agreeable. Luxembourg and Namur, where the surface is high, and the numerous hills and dales which diversify it, both cheer the animal spirits and freely circulate an air at once keen and pure, are most favourable to health and longevity. The only parts of the country which can be considered unhealthy are the low flats, which prevail in Flanders, and the polders or rich alluvial tracts which have been gained from the rivers by embankment, chiefly in Ant werp. There agues, and other diseases engendered by a humid and sluggish atmosphere, are prevalent. Woods and Forests. Nearly one-fifth of the whole surface of the kingdom is occupied by wood. The distribution of it, however, is by no means equal ; and hence, while the two Flanders and Antwerp fall far below the average amount, Luxembourg and Naiiiur rise far above it, and are very densely wooded. In these provinces, extensive tracts are covered with natural woods, in which the wolf and wild boar still have their haunts. These woods are the remains of the ancient forest of Ardennes, which Csesar describes as stretching far out into France from the banks of the Ehine. They consist of hard wood, principally oak, which is often of great size, and furnishes large quantities of the most valuable timber. By carefully dressing the stools after it is cut, a fine oak copse is raised, the cuttings of which annually produce many tons (if bark ; which not only supplies the tanneries of the country, but leaves a considerable surplus for exportation, chiefly to England ; while the wood, unfit for the carpenter, is partly employed as fuel, and partly converted into charcoal, for the use of the ironworks, where the superiority of the iron smelted and wrought by it is well known. S. Brabant also possesses several fine forests ; among others, that of Soignies, with which the field of Waterloo has made us familiar. In the other provinces, scarcely anything deserving the name of forest is eeen. Wood is distributed over them in occasional patches, and more frequently in the form of hedgerow. The timber thus grown is by no means small in aggregate amount, and I forms a well-known feature in the rich rural landscapes which the old Flemish masters loved to paint; but, taking into account the injury which the cultivated crops sustain from it, it is very questionable whether it ought to be regarded as a source of profit either to individual proprietors or to the coun try at large. The timber itself, consisting chiefly of various kinds of poplar, is soft, and of an inferior description. Agriculture. The greater part of the country is well adapted for agricultural operations, and the inhabitants have so happily availed themselves of their natural advantages, that they early began, and in some respects still deserve, to be regarded as the model farmers of Europe. In the high lands traversed by the Ardennes, the climate is ungenial, and the soil so shallow and stony, as almost to forbid the labour of the plough. Here the occupants display their skill, not so much by what they do, as by what they refrain from attempt ing. Instead of vain endeavours to force the growth of corn, where it could never yield an adequate return, they have been contented to turn the natural pastures of the district to the best account, by employing themselves chiefly in the rearing of stock. In particular, they produce a hardy breed of horses, which, being admirably adapted for light cavalry, are largely exported to France for that purpose, while vast herds of swine are fed, almost at no expense, on the mast of the forests. At the same time, no part of the surface is allowed to lie waste. Where arable land occurs, it is carefully applied to its proper use. Even the vine has not been forgotten, and sunny slopes on which little else could have been grown, have been made to yield a tolerable wine. In the opposite extremity of Bel gium, chiefly in the province of Antwerp, and partly in that of Limburg, an extensive tract occurs, which strikingly con trasts in appearance with the hilly districts of the S.E., but is perhaps still less adapted for the ordinary operations of agriculture. This tract, known by the name of Campine, is a vast expanse of moorland waste, of the most dreary appearance, a dead monotonous flat, composed for the most part of barren sand, in which the ordinary heaths and lichens will scarcely grow. The greater part of this tract seems destined to re main for ever in its natural state, but whenever a patch of more promising appearance occurs, the hand of industry has been at work, and corn fields and green pastures have become not unfrequent even in the Campine. Agricultural colonies, partly free, and partly compulsory, have been planted in dif ferent parts of the district. The former consist of persons generally in poor circumstances, who have voluntarily en gaged in reclaiming barren tracts as the means of procuring a maintenance, and saving them from the degradation of pau perism. The latter consist of convicts, who, having forfeited their liberty, give compulsory labour as the penalty of their offences. By the united exertions of both, a wondrous im provement has been made, and on parts of this waste, some of the finest cattle of the country are reared, and much dairy produce of excellent quality is obtained. Still, however, about 300,000 ac. remain untouched. With exception of the two districts now described, there is no part of Belgium in which agriculture does not flourish ; but the husbandry which has been so much lauded, is seen in its greatest perfection in the two Flanders. Its excellence is owing not to any superior knowledge of what may be called the theory of agriculture, nor to any remarkable ingenuity in the invention of imple ments, by which its operations are more efficiently or more cheaply performed, but chiefly to an innate spirit of economy and industry an economy which carefully appropriates every gain however small, and an industry which grudges no labour however great, provided it is possible, by the application of it, to obtain an additional amount of valuable produce. In fact, the Flemish husbandry partakes more of the nature of garden than of field culture. In many of its operations, no doubt, horse labour is employed. The plough and the harrow are in frequent requisition, but the implement on which the greatest dependence is placed, is the earliest and simplest of all the spade. To give full scope for the use of it, the ground is parcelled out into small fields of a square form, which have their highest point in the centre, and slope gently from it in all directions towards the sides, where ditches of sufficient size carry off the superfluous water as it filters into them. To promote this filtration, the ground is trenched to a uniform depth, so that the slope of the subsoil corresponds as nearly as possible to that of the surface. In performing this trenching, a considerable degree of skill and ingenuity is displayed. The performance of the whole at once, would be a formidable and not a very efficient process. In a few years, a new subsoil would be formed, and the trenching would re quire to be renewed. This is rendered unnecessary in the following manner. The land is laid out in ridges about 5 ft. wide, and when the seed is sown it is not covered, as usual, by the harrow, but by earth dug from the furrows to the depth of two spits, and spread evenly over the surface. By chang ing the ridges, and throwing the furrow of the previous year into the ridge of the next, the whole ground becomes furrow in the course of five successive crops, and is consequently trenched to the depth of about 18 inches. This process of trenching never ceases, and is unquestionably one of the most important characteristics of the Flemish husbandry. The only other process particularly deserving of notice, is the care and skill manifested in securing an adequate supply of manure. Every farm is fully stocked, and the cattle, instead of being grazed in the fields, are fed at home, in winter, on turnips and other roots ; and in summer, on green crops carefully arranged, so as to come forward in regular succession, and yield a full supply of rich succulent food. In addition to this, every homestead has a tank built and generally arched with brick, into which all the liquids of the cattle sheds are conveyed, and have their fertilizing properties increased by the dissolu tion of large quantities of rape-cake. This liquid manure is of singular efficacy in promoting the growth of flax, which enters regularly into the Flemish rotation, and is perhaps the most valuable crop of all, the produce of an acre being not unfrequently sold for 50. As this crop is one of the most exhausting which can be grown, and requires the richest BELGIUM 364 BELGIUM manure while it yields none, the growth of it to any great extent, must, without the aid of the tank, have been impos sible. At present, in Flanders alone, the value of flax annually raised has been estimated at 1J millions sterling. To save the necessity of further details, we subjoin tho fol lowing table. The PROVINCES of BELGIUM, their AREA, EXTENT under CULTIVATION, and POPULATION, as at Jan. 1, 1849. PROVINCES. Aren, in *q. m. Ana, in ae. Cultivated. Wood. Waste. Population. Pop. pcrsq m 1 093 699 778 394 792 80 601 Brabant (S.) Flanders (W.) Flanders (E ) 1,267 1,248 1 157 810,958 798,916 740 474 671,504 669,219 621 701 106,175 72,856 74438 3,117 11,379 2 781 711,332 626,847 661-43 502-28 Lie"e l.imburg 1,456 1,116 931 1 705 919,346 714,618 596,048 1 091 009 723,997 5:8,535 381,183 371 63G 1 50,201 134,121 88,163 9,043 33,612 123,903 723,539 460,663 185,621 503-05 412-79 199-37 Namur 1,413 904,465 447,826 310,086 119^407 268,143 118-92 11,366 7,275,613 4,800,393 1,360,218 813,116 4,359,090 It thus appears that about two thirds of the whole kingdom is under cultivation, and nearly eight-ninths profitably occu pied, leaving only about one-ninth waste. Of this last, the far greater part belongs to the comparatively barren districts of the S.E. and N.E., already described ; and hence, in the more favoured provinces, particularly those of S. Brabant, the two Flanders, and Hainaut, the quantity of waste is so very small, that the whole surface may be regarded as one vast garden. It is an error, however, to assert, as is usually done, that Belgium raises more corn than it consumes. For several years the import has considerably exceeded the export. In 1844, the import of wheat for home consumption amounted to above 60,000 quarters. The average price, for the same year, was 2, Is. 8d. per qr. Considerable attention has been paid in Belgium to the rearing of stock, and the breeds both of cattle and horses are of a superior description. The horses of Flanders in particular, are admirably adapted for draught, and an infusion of their blood has contributed not a little to form the magnificent teams of the London draymen. In general, however, Belgium stock of all kinds is inferior to that of England. Throughout the kingdom, the estimated number of horses is 250,000 ; of cattle, 900,000 ; and of sheep, 753,000. Mines. The mineral riches of Belgium are great, and, after agriculture, form the most important of her national interests. They are almost entirely confined to the four provinces of Hainaut, Liege, Namur, and Luxembourg, and consist of lead, manganese, calamine or zinc, iron, and coal. The lead is wrought to some extent at Vedrin, in Liege ; but the quantity obtained forms only a small part of the actual consumption. Manganese, well known for its important bleaching properties, is obtained both in Liege and Namur. The principal field of calamine is at Liege, where it is worked to an extent which not only supplies the home demand, but leaves a large surplus for export. All these minerals, however, are insignificant compared with those of iron and coal. The former has its seat in the country between the Sambre and the Meuse, and also in the province of Liege. At present, the largest quantity of ore is raised in that of Namur. The coal field already described, has an area of above 500 sq. m. The annual output exceeds 3,000,000 tons, and of these nearly two-thirds are obtained in the province of Hainaut. It forms the largest and most valuable of all the Belgian exports. More than a half of the whole coal raised is taken by France. There cannot be a doubt that this export yields a handsome profit to the coal- masters, and adds greatly to the national wealth ; but a ques tion has been raised as to the policy of thus lavishly disposing of a raw material which is absolutely essential to the exist ence of a manufacturing community, and the quantity of which, though great, is by no means inexhaustible. One obvious effect of the great foreign demand, is to raise the price, and thus place some of the most important manufactur ing interests of the country in an unfavourable position for competing successfully with so formidable a rival as Great Britain. Besides minerals, properly so called, Belgium is abundantly supplied with building-stone, pavement, limestone, roofing-slate, and marble. Of the last, the black marble of Dinant is the most celebrated. Manufactures. The industrial products of Belgium are very numerous, and the superiority of many of them to those of most other countries, is confessed. The fine linens of Flanders, and lace of S. Brabant, are of European reputation. Scarcely less celebrated are the carpets and porcelain of Tournay, the cloth of Verviers, the carriages of Brussels, the cutlery of Namur, the extensive foundries, machine-works, and other iron establishments of Liege. The cotton manu facture, confined chiefly to Flanders and the province of Antwerp, engrosses a capital of 2,500,000, and gives em ployment to more than 12,000 persons. Trade and Commerce. The geographical position, the admirable facilities of transport, and the indefatigable industry of the inhabitants, early combined to place Belgium at the very head of the trading countries of Europe. The gradual rise of competitors still more highly favoured, has deprived her of this pre-eminence ; but her trade is still of great im portance, and within recent years has made a rapid advance. Her coal and iron, and the numerous products of her manu factures, furnish in themselves the materials of extensive traffic ; while the possession of one of the best harbours in the world, situated on a magnificent river, which directly, or by canals, stretches its arms into every part of the kingdom, and now made accessible by a system of railways with every kingdom of Central Europe, promises to make it the seat of a transit trade even more important than that which it mono polized during the Middle Ages. The limited extent of the sea- coast, on which alone mariners can be reared, seems to make it impossible for Belgium ever to take high rank as a naval power; but if others must be the sea- carriers, she certainly bids fair soon to become the greatest land-carrier of the world. This she owes chiefly to the admirable system of railway com munication which, in the exercise of an enlightened policy, was early established throughout the kingdom. This system has its centre at Malines, from which a line proceeds N. to Antwerp; another W. to Ostend, another S.W. through Mons, and on to the Northern Railway of France, which communi cates directly with Paris; and another S.E. to Liege, and on into Prussia, where it first communicates with the Rhine at Cologne, and thence by that river, and by rail, gains access both E. and S. to all the countries of Central Europe. In addition to these great trunks, one important branch connects Liege with Namur and Mons ; and another from Antwerp, after crossing the W. trunk at Ghent, passes Courtray and proceeds directly towards Lille. The ramification is thus complete ; and there is not a town in Belgium of any impor tance which may not now, with the utmost facility, convey the products of its industry by the safest and the speediest of all means of transport. Electric telegraphs have been an nexed to all or most of the lines. From the official returns of external commerce of Belgium, published by her government for the year 1850, it appears that the Belgian trade is steadily advancing. Thus, taking quinquennial periods as the best criterion to judge by, it results that, from 1835 to 1839, the valued amount was 15,480,000; from 1840 to 1844, 25,000,000; from 1845 to 1849, 28,720,000; and in 1850, 36,480,000. The ex ports of Belgian produce and manufactures, which in 1840 were to the value of 5,600,000, in 1849 had increased to nearly 9,000,000. The articles of export are far more numerous than those of import, the latter being chiefly raw cotton, wool, and colonial produce. The former are prin cipally coal and flax, tissues of flax, cotton, and wool; glass wares, firearms, ami nails, in 1853 there were sent to Great BELGIUM BELGIUM Britain nearly 7,000,000 eggs; wool (sheep s and lambs ), 1,760,916 Ibs.; glass (flint) 142,530 Ibs. ; plate glass, 9598 sq. ft.; poultry and game (value) 15,381. Little more than a half of the foreign commerce of Bel gium is of a substantive nature, the rest depending on her position and polity, as a trading intermediary for the produce and goods passing to and from the states of the German Zollverein, the Netherlands, Britain anil her colonies, America, &c. Thus it appears that the value of the direct exports in 1850, from Belgium to the United States, was about 660,000 ; from the United States to Belgium, about 1,300,000; but these figures give us no clear idea of the balance of trade between the two countries, as much of the American produce, finally destined for Belgian use, is borne first to Britain, &c. ; while, on the other hand, not a few manufactures of Bel gian origin pass to the United States through France. To the latter country, in fact, more than a third of the whole exported products of Belgium is sent. Of similar character, probably, is the Belgian trade with Turkey, the imports from which, in 1850, were valued at fully 150,000, and the exports thither to not quite 30,000. The external trade of Belgium is chiefly carried on by means of foreign vessels. The returns for 1849, indeed, give a list of 161 ships, &c., employed in deep-sea voyaging; but not more than five of these were of considerable burden. In that year, the arrivals of vessels in Belgian ports from foreign countries were 2424; total tons of their cargoes, 268,931. Belgium is, in fact, much more of a manufacturing than a trading country. The commercial intercourse between Belgium and Great Britain is considerable. From the reports of the Board of Trade, published in 1855, the following table of the chief articles of British export has been drawn up: GOODS AND PRODUCE. Tt 1851. 18. Cottons Declared value of do. Cotton yarn ...yards. .V.V. .Vb s; 2,122,4*1 1,57 54,209 S 1. 1 J79,556 1,15 Value 1(14,926 6 Linens Value ...yards 260,990 6 6,322 Linen yarn V. .V. .iijs. 674,6-13 9 Value... Woollens Value ..pieces 25.766 4 68,343 6 105,187 9 Woollens . .[yards 846,636 1-2 Value... 3 637 Wool, sheep and lambs . Value Woollen yarn .......Ibs . . ." .Ibs ).760istt 308 116.488 21 453,488 SfiJ Value 1-8,620 3< Silks, vnlue 33,013 4 Aggregate of British exports, value Do. foreign and colonial native ^ ) 984,501 1,076 7,718,407 1*6,848 L. 19,824 ,151,603 60.837 2 675 968,705 45,631 6S.106 95,243 7--!4.313 3,506 62.170 3,159.883 179,676 08,033 4,667 1,451,075 74,821 61,843 88,708 1,024,386 2,481 1,677,383 126,250 970,592 100,235 70,669 1,371,817 People. The Belgium population is the densest in Europe and is composed of two distinct races-Flemish, who are of German and Walloons, who are of French extraction. The tormer, by tar the more numerous, have their principal locality in Flanders ; but also prevail throughout Antwerp, Limburg and part of S. Brabant. The latter are found chiefly in Hainan? Liege, Namur, and part of Luxembourg. The language of each corresponds with their origin-the Flemings speaking a dialect of German, and the Walloons a dialect or rather corruption of French, with a considerable infusL of words and phrases from Spanish and other languages. This distinc mixture of races, and the repeated changes of masters to which they have been subjected, have necessarily been very unfa vourable to the formation of a national character. Still in some leading features, there is a remarkable uniformity in the populate Though the position of the country between France and Germany has made it the battle field of Europe, the inhabitants show few warlike tendencies, and are unwearied m pursuing the arts of peace. Hostile armies have frequently met upon their soil to decide the fate of kingdoms, carryin- devastation into every quarter; but no sooner have Set- withdrawn, than the labours of the field and the workshop have been quietly resumed, and the very traces of devastation been, in a few years, effaced. The tact bears strong testi mony to the patient endurance of the Belgians, but bespeaks a deficiency both of physical and moral courage, and thus pre pares us for another leading feature in their character their blind and slavish subjection to the llomish see. Protestantism is fully tolerated, and even salaried by the state, but cannot count above one-twentieth of the population among its adher ents. One astonishing circumstance connected with this state of matters is, that Belgium early embraced, and at one time seemed on the eve of being gained to, the Kefonnation. Per secution of the most fearful kind took place, and did what, perhaps, it has never done in any other part of the world, not only forced the people back to a religion which they had renounced, but induced them to return to it as willing con verts. Where such a spirit prevails, education of an enlight ened kind cannot have made much progress. Numerous schools, partly free and partly supported by the state, are planted throughout the kingdom ; but the instruction given is of the most elementary description. Under the Dutch, attend ance at these schools was compulsory. It has since become voluntary, and is said to have, in consequence, declined. In all the large towns, colleges (athcnees) have been established, where a superior education may be obtained, while a complete course for the learned professions is provided by four univer sities ; two of them at Ghent and Liege respectively, established and supported by the state ; one at Brussels, called the free university, founded by voluntary association ; and one at Louvain, called the Catholic university, founded by the clergy, and apparently the most flourishing of all. Many of the pro fessors in these universities are of distinguished reputation ; but their works, written in French, which is still the official language, and in general use among the educated classes, can scarcely be regarded as forming part of a national literature. Of late, however, patriotic feelings, to which the Belgians have too long been strangers, have acquired new strength ; and one of its first manifestations has been an eager desire to cultivate the vernacular Flemish. It is said to possess great power and flexibility, and several works have already appeared in it, which bid fair to make it a classic language. The popu lation, generally, is moral, and apparently in comfortable cir cumstances. The far larger proportion of it is rural ; and though property is very much subdivided, the Belgians, in stead of exhibiting the wretchedness so common among the small occupiers in Ireland, manage, by a happy combination of agricultural with other industrial employments, to derive from their little tenures all the necessaries, and not a few of the comforts of life. It is not to be denied, however, that in some of the provinces, particularly in Flanders, population, in so far, at least, as it can be maintained by agricultural resources, has reached its limit ; and that a deficiency of other employment, particularly spinning and hand-loom weaving, has placed large numbers on, if not within, the verge of pau perism. In Flanders and S. Brabant, a fourth of the people is dependent on total or occasional relief; and pauper riots have repeatedly occurred. Still, the population continues to move on, as if with accelerated pace. In 1841, it was 4,067,393 ; and in 1849, 4,359,090. Government. The Belgian constitution combines mon archical with a strong infusion of the democratic principle. The executive power is vested in a hereditary king ; the legislative in the king and two chambers, the senate and the chamber of representatives ; both elected by citizens paying about 35*. of direct taxes the former for eight years, and the latter for four ; but one-half renewable every two years. The chief divisions of the territory is into nine provinces, each of which is administered by a governor, and is subdivided into arrondissements admiuistratifs, and arrondissements judi ciaries ; subdivided again, respectively, into cantons de milice and cantons de justice de paix. Each canton is composed of several communes, of which the sum total throughout the kingdom is 2514. The other great territorial divisions are the ecclesiastical, which divides the kingdom into six dioceses ; and the military, which divides it into four sections. The army has an effective force of 90,000 men, with a reserve of the same amount ; but all citizens between the age of 21 and 50 are enrolled in the garde civiqite, and form a militia of not less than 500,000. The defensive power of the kingdom is greatly id-eased by numerous strong fortresses. The navy of Bel gium is confined to a few steamers and a small flotilla of gun boats. The public revenue for 1850, derived chiefly from direct taxation and dues of transport, amounted to 4,636,420. BELGRADE I The expenditure amounted to 4,670,206. About one-third of it was absorbed by the interest of the debt, the sum total of which, at the same date, was 39,747,060. The coins, weights, and measures are the same, both in name and value, as those of France (which see). History. The first mention of the country is made by Julius Csesar, who includes it in one of the three divisions of Gaul, and describes its inhabitants as particularly distinguished for valour. It continued under Roman domination till A.D. 409, when it became part of the empire of the Franks; which, under Clovis, extended from the Khine to the Loire. On the death of Clovis, in 511, it was divided among his sons, and formed four separate kingdoms. Ultimately, about A.D. 800, they all merged in the empire of Charlemagne. In the partition which took place on his death, almost the whole of modern Belgium fell to his son Lothaire. It was afterwards subdivided into several duchies, which, having been gradually absorbed by that of Brabant, passed with it to the house of Burgundy, in 1406, and continued with it till 1477, when, by the marriage of Mary, heiress of Charles the Bold, it became united to Austria ; and shortly after formed part of the extensive dominions of the Emperor Charles V. Through him, Belgium was united to the Spanish monarchy. On the peace of 1714, it was ceded to Austria; which maintained its possession till 1791, when the armies of the French republic overran the country, and portioned it out into nine departments, as part and parcel of France. On the downfall of Napoleon, the allies united Bel gium and Holland, under the king of the latter, into the king dom of the Netherlands. The union was never harmonious, and proved short-lived. Taking advantage of the agitation caused by the expulsion of the Bourbons from France, in 1830, the Belgians revolted, and obtained a recognition of their independence. They have since enjoyed great prosperityunder the enlightened and constitutional government of their own king, Leopold I. The recent changes in France were gene rally expected to produce corresponding changes in Belgium ; and thousands of Frenchmen proceeded to the frontier to bestow the benefits of their republicanism. The Belgians, by the decisive manner in which they rejected the boon, proved that they are both sensible of the better blessings which they already enjoy, and prepared, if necessary, to defend them. (Meert s Belyique ; Almanack Jtoyal de Heltjique Almanack de Gotha; Das Gegenwart; Parliamentary Papers.} BELGRADE [anc. Sicjindunum; Latin, Alba Grccca, Uettogradia], a fortified city, N. part of European Turkey, cap. of Servia, r. bank, Danube, at the junction of the Save with that river ; lat. 44 47 46" N. ; Ion. 20 39 E. ; on the declivity of a hill. It is composed of the citadel, rising in the centre, and situated on a rock 100 ft. high; the lower town stretching W. from the citadel to the river ; and the suburbs, Baizenstadt on the Save (opposite to the mouth of which river is the island Zingaris), and Palanka on the E. and S., leaning upon the height on which the citadel stands. The houses are, in general, very mean ; the streets filthy in the extreme, and infested by swarms of half-famished dogs ; and the shops consist wholly of a series of wooden stalls or booths, open towards the street, and, in general, poorly stocked. The only public buildings worthy of notice are the caravansary, the college, the two exchanges, and the two bazaars, the residence of Prince Milosch, a Greek church, and the barracks. Belgrade was at one time strongly fortified, and might still be rendered almost impregnable ; but its works have been neglected, and are now rapidly decaying. Within the fortress are the arsenal and magazines erected by the Austrians, the principal mosque, with its lofty tower, and the palace of the pasha, the latter composed of wood and mud. The garrison maintained in the citadel is in keeping with its ruinous condition, consisting of a few half-disciplined, ill-equipped, and miserably paid Turk ish soldiers. The principal articles of manufacture are carpets, silk stuffs, hardware, cutlery, and saddlery ; but the quantities produced are inconsiderable, compared to what they were in former times, when Belgrade was celebrated for the extent of its manufactures. From the excellence of its port, formed by three islands in the Danube, above the town, and its favour able position on the Danube, which gives it an easy communi cation with the Black Sea, it still carries on a pretty extensive trade. The military experiences of Belgrade have rendered it famous in history. Being the key of Hungary, it was long an object of fierce contention between the Austrians and the BELIZE Turks. It was besieged by the latter in 1456; and again, with more success, in 1522, from which time it was held by them till 1688, when it was retaken by the Elector of Bavaria. Two years afterwards, it was again captured by the Turks, who perpetrated every sort of atrocity in the conquered city, besides killing 1200 of the garrison. In 1693, the Austrians made an unsuccessful attempt to regain the town, sustaining a loss of 1000 men. From this period it remained in posses sion of the Turks till the year 1717, when it was besieged by Prince Eugene, with an army of 90,000 men ; the Turkish gar rison amounting to 25,000 men, supported by a strong flotilla on the Danube, and subsequently by an army of 200,000 men, under the Grand Vizier, who marched to the relief of the city. After a desperate conflict between the contending armies, the Turks were defeated, with a loss of 13,000 killed, 5000 wounded, and 3000 prisoners ; the Austrians having only 3000 killed and 4500 wounded. In 1739, the Turks made another vain attempt to retake Belgrade ; but came, soon after, into possession of it by treaty, retaining it till 1789, when it was taken by the Austrians, who restored it to the Turks in 1791 ; since which time it has remained in their possession, except for a short period during the Servian insurrection, when (1813) its suburbs were burned and its fortifications partly destroyed. Pop. 30,000. BELGRAVE, par. Eng. Leicester; 3430 ac. P. 2609. BELHAVEN, a small marine vil. Scotland, co. of, and 10 m. N.E. Haddington, and half a mile S.W. Dunbar, beau tifully situated at the head of a small bay. The houses are of stone, and most of them neatly built ; and in the vicinity are several handsome mansions. Water is abundant, and a supply of gas is obtained from Dunbar. Belhaven has a chapel in connection with the Establishment. Ale is the only manu facture, for the making of which there is here erected an extensive brewery. The locality is remarkably healthy, and forms, altogether, a very desirable summer retreat ; enhanced for such purpose by a mineral spring lately discovered there. Belhaven gives the title of Baron to a branch of the family of Hamilton. Pop. 380. (Local Correspondent.) BELHELV1E, par. Scot. Aberdeen. Pop. 1594. BELIDA, or BLIDA, an inland tn. Algeria, at the foot of the Lesser Atlas, near the plain of Metidjah, 30 m. S. the town of Algiers. It is surrounded by a wall, entered by four gates. The streets are comparatively wide, and the supply of water abundant. The adjoining country is fertile, yielding grain and all sorts of fruit in great quantities, including, amongst the latter, oranges and olives. To these, and spices, the trade of the place is chiefly confined. The town was nearly destroyed by an earthquake in March 1825. P. (1849), 8247. BELITZ, a tn. Prussia, prov. Brandenburg, 12 m. S. by W. Potsdam. It is surrounded by old walls, and has con siderablc manufactures of linen. Flax is grown extensively in the neighbourhood. Pop. 2000. There are several other small places of this name in Prussia. BELIZE, or BALIZE, a tn. British Honduras, or the Settlement of Belize, Yucatan, Central America, situated at the mouth of the river of the same name, which is crossed by a substantial wooden bridge ; lat. 17 29 18" N. ; Ion. 88 12 W. (R.) It consists of a long street, running parallel to the sea-shore, from which three or four smaller streets diverge. The houses are constructed entirely of wood, and are raised 8 or 10 ft. from the ground on pillars of mahogany ; they are well built, spacious, and convenient. The town seems almost entirely inhabited by blacks ; the streets, stores, and market places being thronged with them. They arc described by Mr. Stephens as a fine-looking race, tall, straight, and athletic, and well dressed the men in white cotton shirts and trousers, with straw hats ; the women in white frocks, and short sleeves, and broad red borders, and adorned with large ear-rings and necklaces. During the three dry months of the year, April, May, and June, fresh water is extremely scarce here, and, indeed, throughout the whole settlement, there being no rivu lets, and the water of the river being brackish for several miles upwards. The consequence is, that the inhabitants, at this season, are compelled to have recourse to wells about 3 ft. in depth, from which they procure a muddy, brackish, and fetid water, injurious to health, and productive of a variety of disorders. Strenuous efforts sre now being made to re medy this evil, both by the Government and the European public of Belize ; and considerable sums have already been BELK 367 BELLE-ISLE-EN-MER expended in sinking wells. An iron market-house has re cently been erected in the town, for which 4000 was voted. A savings - bank has been established, under the gaurantee of the local legislature. There are, also, a public hospi tal, a dispensary for the relief of the poor, an asylum for the reception of lunatics, and a grammar-school, conducted on the Madras system, and which was attended, in 1847, by 100 pupils, while in the year before the number was only 75. This school, which is entirely supported by the local government, has a department for girls annexed. The Baptists and Wesleyans have chapels here, with schools con nected the former, one ; the latter, two. There are five judicial courts in Belize the court of ordinary, and the supreme, grand, summary, and police courts. It is also the seat of the Honduras legislation. The anchorage in front of the town is excellent, being protected from the heavy swells of the open sea by the numerous cays ; but is adapted for vessels of moderate size only. Belize is said to have obtained its name from a noted bucaneer, called Wallace, by whom it was first discovered. The name was written Waliz by the Spaniards, and subsequently corrupted into Belize, as it now stands. For trade, &c., see HONDURAS (BRITISH). BELK, or HUMMOCK ISLAND, an isl. Asiatic Archipelago, one of theSerangani Islands; 23 m. S. Serangani Point, isl. Mindanao; lat. 5 24 N.; Ion. 125 21 E.. (R.) BELL ROCK, or INCH CAPE, a dangerous reef off the E. coast of Scotland, in the German Ocean, opposite the Frith of Tay, 12 m. S.E. by S. Arbroath, and about the same distance N.E. Fife Ness; lat. 56 26 N.; Ion. 2 23 W. (R.) The reef, which is of a reddish sandstone, is about 850 yards in length, and 110 in breadth. At low water, some of its highest parts are from 4 to 8 ft. above the level of the sea, but at high water the whole is covered, in some places to a depth of about 12 ft. In stormy weather the sea breaks over it with tremendous fury, and many vessels have been lost on it, as it lies in a much frequented track. To prevent as much as pos sible the recurrence of such disasters, a magnificent lighthouse was erected on one of its points in 1808-10, at an expense of 61,331. The total height of the building, including the light-room, is 115 ft.; the lantern being elevated 90 ft. above the sea at high-water mark. The light is revolving, the flashes succeeding each other every two minutes. During foggy weather, bells are tolled every half minute. In ancient times, there was a solitary bell on the rock, which was rung by the action of the waves, and warned vessels of their danger. The circumstance, according to tradition, of this bell having been sunk by a Dutch pirate, who was himself, in consequence, afterwards wrecked on the reef, has afforded subject for an impressive ballad by Southey, called The Inch Cape Bell. BELL S (KING) TOWN, atn.,\V. Africa, 1. bank, Came- roons River, near its embouchure in the Bight of Biafra; lat. 4 2 N. ; Ion. 9 41 E., cap. of a self-styled regal chief of Guinea. The houses are neatly constructed of bamboo, in wide and regular streets, interspersed with plantain and cocoa- nut trees. The King s house is well built, with a raised story, surrounded by a verandah. A spacious saloon occupies the whole front, and is filled with European goods in chests, and piles of crockery ; figures and looking-glasses in abundance adorning the walls. (Allen s Niger Expedition.} BELLA, a tn. Naples, prov. Basilicata, 15 m. S.W. Melfi on a hill. It has a collegiate and one other church, an hos pital, and three charitable institutions. Pop. 5800. BELLA ISOLA. See BORROMEAN ISLES. BELLAC, a tn. France, dep. Haute Vienne, on the slope of a hill on the r. bank, VinQou, 23 m. N.N.W. Limoges. It has manufactories of cloth, paper, table linen, hats, and leather, th a considerable trade in horses, cattle, mules, oak wood, &c. Pop. 3166. BELLAGIO [Latin, Bilacus], a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, cap. dist. of same name, prov. of, and 15 m. N.N.E. Como, on the 1. bank of the lake of that name, at the ex tremity of the promontory which divides the lake into two arms. Here are several beautiful villas, and it is said that here Pliny the younger had his country-house. Pop. 2258. The DISTRICT is, for the most part, fertile ; but in some parts hilly and well wooded. Pop 9051. BELLANO, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, cap. dist. of same name, prov. of, and 26 m. N.N.E. Como, at the mouth of the Pioverna, on the E. shore of Lake Como. It is well built, has a handsome principal street, an archiepiscopal palace, and several curious natural caverns. Pop. 2135. The DIS TRICT is very productive, and it pastures large herds of cattle. Pop. 7685. BELLARY [VaMiari], a collectorate, Hindoostan, pre sidency of Madras, part of the Balaghaut ceded districts. It occupies the W. section of Balaghaut, but its limits have not been well denned. The principal towns in it are, Bellary (the capital), Bijanagur, Adoni, Gooty, and Curnoul. It is watered by the Krishna, Toombudra, and Vadavati; and yields cotton, but not in large quantities. The TOWN, cap. of the above collectorate, the head-quarters of a civil estab lishment and military division, is 272 m. N.W. Madras; lat. 15 5 N. ; Ion. 76 57 E. The fort is a square building, on an isolated rock, very difficult of access, and protected by three distinct ranges of works, one above the other. The pettah, or small fortified town below, is spacious, and contains perhaps the most regular military bazaar in India. BEL LARY is also the name of a tn., prov. Allahabad, 50 m. N.E. Gurrah, where are several fine Hindoo temples, and the ruins of a large town. BELLAS, a tn. Portugal, prov. Estremadura, 9 m. N.W. Lisbon, 1. bank, Ancelva. The chalybeate waters in the neighbourhood are highly valued. Pop. about 3446. BELLE-ALLIANCE, a farm-house, Belgium, field of Waterloo, r. side of the highroad to Brussels, and about 2 m. S. Mont St. Jean. Here Napoleon marshalled his guards for their last effort at Waterloo, and here Wellington and Bliicher met after the battle was gained. BELLEAU, par. Eng. Lincoln; 650 ac. Pop. 193. BELLEEK, par. and vil. Irel. Fermanagh; 12,849 ac. Pop. 2875. BELLEGARDE, the name of 12 or 13 small towns and villages in France. One in dep. Pyre nees-Orientales, is a fortification of the first class, intended to command the pass of Perthus, between France and Spain. BELLEGHEM, a tn. and com. Belgium, W. Flanders, 3 m. S. Courtray ; with breweries aud oil-mills, and some trade in flax and thread. Pop. 3233. BELLE-iSLE-EN-MER [anc. Colonesus, Pulclira insula], an isl. France, dep. Morbihan, in the N. part of the Bay of Biscay ; lat. (lighthouse) 47 18 42" N. ; Ion. 3 13 30" W. (R.) ; 11 m. BELLE ISLE BELLOVAK long, and about 6 broad. It is almost entirely surrounded by rocks, but is accessible by vessels at low water. Le Palais is the chief town, and has the best of the three harbours on the island ; the depth of water, however, seldom exceeds 5 ft. It is defended by a citadel. The island is fertile, and produces excellent wheat. There is also a considerable extent of rich pasture, on which 700 or 800 horses of the best Breton breed are annually reared. Fresh water, of good quality, is abun dant; and, about Ij m. from Le Palais, may be seen the reservoir of Port Larron, constructed by Vauban, for the supply of water to the ships of the French navy. On the S.W. part of the island, a light of the first class is situated, 27G ft. above the sea level, and can be seen from a distance of 19 m. Several druidical monuments are to be found in the island. The English took possession of Belle-isle in 1761, but restored it to France at the peace of 1763. Pop. about 6000. BELLE ISLE. 1, An isl. and strait, British America. The former is situated near the middle of the N.E. entrance to the strait of the same name, 15 m. N. from the most N. point of Newfoundland, and about the same distance E. from the coast of Labrador ; lat. (N.E. point) 52 1 N.; Ion. 55 17 W. It is about 21 m. in circumference ; and has a small, but convenient harbour, on its N.W. side. The fisheries round the island are said to be of great value, but have hitherto been, in a great measure, monopolized by the French. The STRAIT is a channel between the N.W. coast of Newfoundland and the coast of Labrador, on the continent of N. America. Its length is about 80 m., and its breadth about 12. It is considered unsafe, and therefore little frequented. 2, Two other small islands, Newfoundland. One on the N.E. coast; lat. 50 40 N. ; Ion. 55 25 W. ; and the other on the S.E. coast, in Conception Bay, about 20 m. N.W. St. John. BELLEM, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. E. Flanders, 19m. W.N.W. Ghent; with a considerable manufacture of sailcloth, a brickwork, an oil and a corn mill. The canal from Ghent to Bruges traverses the commune from E. to W. Pop. 1847. BELLEME, or BELLESME, a tn. France, dep. Orne, 10 m. S. Mortagne. The streets are neat, clean, straight, and well paved. It has manufactures of cotton, table linen, can vas, cotton yarn, and paper ; and has a good trade in corn, ship-timber, cotton goods, horses, and cattle. Pop. 3241. BELLEVILLE. 1, A vil. France, dep. Seine, 3 m. from Paris, built in an agreeable situation, on an eminence, for the most part covered with country-seats. It has very much increased within the last 50 years, and now forms almost a suburb of the metropolis. It has numerous gmngiiettes, tea gardens, and other places of amusement, much resorted to by the Parisians. On the hill of Belleville are springs of water, which supply the capital by an aqueduct, which is one of the most an cient in the neighbourhood of Paris, being mentioned as early as the year 1244. It has manufactures of varnished leather, chemical stuffs, articles in polished steel, &c.; and spinning-mills for fine woollen yarn, which is wovtn into cachemires. Pop. (1846), 24,235. 2, Bellevitte-sur-tSavne, a tn. France, dep. Rh5ne, 8 m. N.N.E. Villefranche. It has manufactures of calico and embroidery ; and carries on a considerable trade in casks, and in wine produced in the vicinity, which is sent to Paris and the N. of France. Pop. 1870. 3, A vil., U. States, New Jersey, 3 m. N.E. Newark. It has an episcopal and several other churches, with a variety of schools ; fine mill-streams, and various kinds of manufactories. The calico printing-works are extensive. Pop. 2466. BELLE Y [anc. Bellied], a. tn. France, dep. Ain, cap. arrond., 39 m. S.E. Bourg, and 38 m. S.W. Geneva, agreeably situated between two hills, a short distance from the Rhone, in a fertile valley, watered by the Furan. A suspension bridge across the Rhone, at Balme-sous-Pierre-Chatel, con nects France with the magnificent road of the Mont-du-Chat, leading to Italy by Chambery and Mont Cenis. The town is very ancient, having been a place of note in the time of Julius Caesar, and is the scat of a bishopric, founded in 412. It contains a communal college, agricultural society, and court of primary resort. The episcopal palace, the belfry of the cathedral, the college, and the rich cabinet of medals and antiquities, are worth notice. Muslins and Indianas are made here. Silkworms are reared ; and lithographic stones, reckoned the best in France, are obtained from quarries in the neighbourhood. Pop. 3666. BELLHEIM, a market tn. Bavaria, circle, Pfalz, about 5 m. from Germcrsheim, on the Spiegelbach. It is a place of great antiquity, being noticed so early as the eighth century ; and has two churches a Protestant and a R. Catholic. Pop., chiefly agricultural, 2375. BELL1GAM, a tn. Ceylon, prov. same name, situated on a small, but beautiful bay, between Matura and Point de Galle. The houses are scattered among cocoa-nut groves. It contains many religious edifices, in one of which is a colos sal figure of Buddha, in a reclining posture. The inhabitants, who are composed of Singhalese and Moors, are chiefly em ployed in fishing. (Ceylon Oaz.) BELLI NGEWOLDE, a vil. Holland, prov. of, and 27 m. E.S.E. Groningen, in a moorish district on the Hano verian frontier. It has a church, and two schools. The in habitants are mainly employed in agriculture. Pop. 1500. BELLINGHAM, a market tn. and par. England, co. Northumberland. The town, pleasantly situated on a decliv ity, 1. bank, N. Tyne, contains an ancient church, the only one in the district which has survived the Reformation, one Presbyterian, and one R. Catholic chapel. Area of par. 15,540 ac. Pop. of par. 1730; of tn. 672. BELLINGHAUSEN ISLAND, one of the Society Islands, S. Pacific Ocean; lat. 15 48 S.; Ion. 154 30 W. (R.) about 350 m. N.N.W. Tahiti. BELLINZONA [German, Bellenz], a tn. Switzerland, one of the three caps, of can Tessiu or Ticino, 1. bank, Ticino, BELLINZONA. From Sazerac, Lettres sur la Suiase. here crossed by a stone bridge of 10 arches, and about 5 m. from its embouchure in the N. end of Lago Maggiore. It occupies the whole breadth of the narrow valley in wliichit stands. The walls and ditches prevented the increase of the town, the houses of which, built of stone, have a regular ap pearance, and are mostly built over arcades, but form narrow and dirty streets. It is a place of some commercial im portance, as an entrepot for the merchandise of Germany and Italy, and from its position at the union of the four roads from the St. Gothard, the Bernardin, and from Lugano, and Locarno on the Lago Maggiore. It contains an arsenal, prison, Benedictine college, some silk-mills, and tanneries. Pop. 1520. BELLOVAR,or BELOVAii,afortifiedtn. Austria, Croatian military frontier, on the Belovar, 12 m. S.E. Kreutz; lat. 45 56 N. ; Ion. 16 46 E. It has two churches, and a sem inary of Piarists, all handsome structures ; a grammar-school. BELLUNO BELOOCHISTAN and an hospital. A considerable quantity of silk is spun and exported, and the potteries, which are numerous and extensive, produce wares which are in great repute, not only in Croatia, but the surrounding provinces. Pop. 2800. BELLUNO, a prov. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, bounded N. and AV. by Tyrol, E. by prov. Friaul, and S. by provs. Treviso andViceuza; area, 1088 geo. sq. m.; divided into eight circles. It is mountainous ; its principal stream is the Piave, and the only lakes of note are Capicino and Allegho. Grain, wine, fruits, and timber, are produced plentifully, and its rich pastures feed a large number of cattle and sheep. It likewise yields copper, lead, iron, alum, sulphur, chalk, pipe clay, and marble. Pop. 125,000. BELLUNO [Latin, BeUunum], a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. of, and 48 m. N. Venice, cap. of above prov., on a hill, r. bank, Piave, at its junction with the Ardo. It is well built, and fortified, and contains, besides the cathedral planned by Pal- ladio, several churches, convents, and hospitals ; an extensive public library founded by the prelate Lollini, a gymnasium, and several other educational institutions. It has a consider able trade in timber, wines, and fruits ; and has manufactories of wax, silk, leather, hats, and earthenware. The town is supplied with water from a considerable distance, by means of an aqueduct. It is the see of a bishop, who had formerly the title of Count of Belluno, and is the residence of the governor of the province. From this town, Victor, one of Bonaparte s marshals, took his title of Duke of Belluno. Pop. 10,000. BELLUS, or BELUSSA, a market tn. Hungary, co. of, and 16m. N.N.E. Trentschen, 1. bank, Waag. It is governed by its own magistracy, has a parish church and a chapel, a con siderable manufacture of earthenware, and a sulphur spring. Pop. 2330. BELMONTE. 1, A tn. Spain, New Castile, prov. of and 45 m. S.W. by S. Cuenca, on the declivities of two small hills in the extensive plain of La Mancha. It has irregular and badly-paved streets, two squares, two churches, a town- house, hospital, school, prison (once a Jesuits college), and some convents. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in tillage, but they also weave some woollen stuffs, and express oil. Pop. 2533. 2, A coast tn. Brazil, prov. Bahia, at the mouth of the Jequitinhonha, also called the Rio Grande or Belmonte ; lat. 15 54 S. ; Ion. 38 30 W. It consists of three straight streets, each of upwards of 80 houses, surrounded by palm- trees, which give the place an agreeable aspect ; and has a church, townhall, prison, and primary school. The port is inconsiderable, and is impeded by a sand bar at the mouth of the river ; still it admits coasters, and has communication up the river with the interior of the province of Minas Geraes, whence, from Minas Novas, considerable quantities of salt are brought. Pop. 600. 3, A tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Citra, 13m. S.W. Cosenza, on a mountain not far from the Mediter ranean. It has a citadel, and four churches. Silkworms are reared in the district. Pop. 2914. 4, A small tn. Naples, prov. Sannio, 18 m. N.E. Isema. 5, A small tn. Portugal, prov. Beira-baixa, on a hill overlooking a fertile valley, 15 m. S. Guarda. Pop. 1144. BELMONTE (Rio). See JEQUITINHONHA. BELMULLET, a small tn. and port, Ireland, co. Mayo, 32 m. AV.N.AV. Ballina, consisting of two streets, and a small central square, a session-house, &c. Corn and fish are exported, and timber, iron, slates, and other requisites imported. Many of the inhabitants are engaged in fishing. Pop. 637. BELCE1L, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. Hainaut, 16 m. E.S.E. Tournai, on the road to Mons. It is chiefly remark able for its old castle, built in 1146, now the seat of the Princes de Ligne. With its gardens and parks, it forms a noble do main; and its interior is rich in pictures and other objects of art and curiosity. The commune of Belceil is one of the loveliest in the province, and exports various kinds of agri cultural produce, as well as cattle. It has several breweries, two salt-refineries, and a tannery. Many of the inhabitants live by tambouring. Pop. 2429. BELOOCHISTAN, or BALOOCHISTAN, an extensive country, S. Asia, lying between Persia and the valley of the Indus, having the former on the AV., Afghanistan on the N., Scinde on the E., and the Arabian Sea on the S.; extend ing from lat. 24 50 to 30 40 N.; and from Ion. 58 51 to 67 30 E.; greatest length, E. to AV.. about 600 m.; greatest VOL. I. breadth, N. to S., 380; area, 160,000 sq. m. Its sea-coast rom Cape Monze, or Ras Moaree, to Cape Jask at the W. extremity, is of remarkably uniform outline, about 630 m. in extent, and has several well-sheltered roadsteads, particularly Soumeanee Bay and Choubar Bay, but no good harbours. Beloochistan is a little-known country, consequently in de cribing it, only an approximation to accuracy can be attained. It comprises seven divisions, or provinces: 1, Cutch Gun- dava on the N.E, bordering E. on Scinde, and N. on Afghan- tan. 2, Sarawan, bounded, N.and W. by Afghanistan, and E. by Cutch Gundava. 3, Kelat, in which is the reputed capital of the country of the same name, bounded, E., N.,and W.,by the two provinces already named, and S. by Jhalawan. 4, Jhala- an, bounded, N. by the three preceding provinces, E. by Scinde, W. by prov. Mekran, and S. by Lus. 5, Lus, bounded E. by Scinde, S. by the Arabian Sea, W. by Mekran, and N. by Jhalawan. 6, Mekran, or Mukran, occupying the whole breadth of the country, from the desert of Afghanistan on the N., to the Arabian Sea on the S., and bounded, E. by Jhalawan and Lus, from which it is separated by a ridge of mountains, and W. by Persia and Kohistan ; from the latter of which it "s separated by the Bushkurd mountain-range. 7, Kohistan, the mountain-country, and the most W. province, bounded, E. and S. by Mekran, W. by Persia, and N. by Seistan. Harrand and Dajil, included in some enumerations, appear properly to belong to Scinde. The provinces will be found noticed in separate articles, in their proper place. Surface and Geology. The general surface of Beloochistan s rugged and mountainous, with some extensive intervals of barren sandy deserts. The direction of the numerous moun tain-chains with which it is intersected, are almost wholly unknown, with exception of a few of the principal ranges, and of these the general parallelism and uniformity are somewhat remarkable, one system having an inclination from N. to S., another more palpably from E. to W. ; of the latter, one vast chain stretches along the entire coast, from the vicinity of Ras Jask on the W., to the river Pooralee on the E., appar entlya continuation of the great mountain-systems of Armenia, Azerbijan, Kurdistan, and Luristan, which, uniting at Shiraz, hold on their course in a single range to the valley of the Indus. Parallel to this range, and at the distance of about 70 m. N. from it, another well defined chain intersects Mekran, stretching from about Ion. 60 30 to 65 30 E., where it joins the Sarawanee Mountains near Beila. A third parallel range, called the Wushutee, or Mue Mountains, about 110 m. N. from the last-described chain, forms part of the N. boundary of Beloochistan, separating it from the great S. desert of Afghanistan. This range is much shorter than either of the other two, being not more than a third of the length of the first, and scarcely a half of that of the second. The other more remarkable chains are the Bushkurd Mountains, stretch ing S.W. to N.E., or from Ras or Cape Jask, to near Sibbo, and forming the S.E. boundary of the prov. of Kohistan. The length of this range may be about 240 m. The Sara wanee Mountains, stretching generally N.E. and S.W. from lat. 26 to 28 50 N., thence to 30 in a N.N.E. direction. The Hala Mountains, forming a part of the E. boundary of Beloochistan, are connected with the elevated region of Af ghanistan by the Toba Mountains, of which they may be con sidered a prolongation. Tracing their course N. to S., they are found overspreading the N.E. part of Beloochistan with their branches and offsets, in one of which is the famous Bolan Pass, and ultimately terminating at Cape Monze. Many of these mountains are of great height, and covered with snow. The geology of Beloochistan, like all its other physical features, is but imperfectly known. Some of the mountain- chains are of compact limestone, enclosing marine shells and corals, identical with similar objects picked up on the sea-shores at this day. The strata of the Hala range, where it presents a section of great depth in the Bolan Pass, exhibits similar formations, the hills being of coarse conglomerate, secondary limestone, and sandstone ; of which, also, the more S. portion of the same range, and the low hills extending along the coast on the S., are composed. The Kohistan, or hill country in the N.W., bears strong marks of existing volcanic action. Excepting fragments of quartz, found in Lus, primary forma tions have not been observed in any part of the Belooche mountains. In the same province is a singular geyser of liquid mud, resembling the Malacuba, or mud volcano of Sicily. BELOOCHISTAN 370 BELOOCHISTAN The mineral wealth of the country is believed to be consid erable, including gold, silver, lead, iron, copper, tin, antimony, brimstone, alum, sal-ammoniac, and many kinds of mineral salts, and saltpetre. Rock-salt is common in Kohistan. Itivers. Throughout Beloochistan there is a great defi ciency of water, particularly in summer. The largest streams are the Dustee, or the Bhugwar, the Bunth, the Sudgee, the Siroo or Tank, the Aghor, the Kurmut, and the Pooralce, all of which fall into the Indian Ocean. In the N. part are the Bolan and the Molloh, which are ultimately lost in the sands of Cutch Gundava. Their courses form the celebrated passes bearing their names, leading from the valley of the Indus to Belooch istan and Afghanistan. The roads through the mountains in this country generally lead through the dry beds of rivers ; and the plains are everywhere intersected by mounds, in tended to collect the rain water for the purposes of irrigation. Climate. The climate in the higher parts is extremely cold, particularly during the months of December, January, and February ; while in the plains and valleys, the heat in summer is oppressive. Some parts of Mekran are said to be the hottest localities in Asia. Snow falls from October to the end of February; and in some parts, remains continuously on the ground for two months. In February and March, a good deal of rain falla. From the latter month to September is the dry season. Soil and Produce. The soil is not in general fertile ; but patient industry has rendered the plains and valleys produc tive in wheat, barley, and millet. The other chief crops are madder, and various kinds of pulse and oil seeds, in the districts principally N. and E. of Kelat ; cotton, particu larly in Cutch Gundava; and in the low and hot regions, rice, maize in small quantities, indigo of excellent quality, and tobacco. The sugar-cane grows chiefly on the plains of Lus, and the date in Mekran. Vegetables are abundant. The principal esculents are turnips, carrots, cabbages, lettuces, cauliflowers, pease, beans, radishes, onions, celery, parsley, garlic, egg-fruit, and cucumbers. The gardens and orchards in the vicinity of the towns produce the finest fruits, espe cially figs, apricots, grapes, pomegranates, apples, plums, peaches, almonds, cherries, quinces, pistachio-nuts, and melons of fine flavour and large size. On the sides of some of the mountains, and in the jungle, which generally covers the wide beds of the rivers, trees are numerous, consisting of the juniper, cedar-tree, the tamarind, tamarisk, mulberry, caper- tree, babool, oriental plantain, ber-tree, chinar, peepul, mango, walnut, sycamore, wild fig, and willow. The oak, ash, fir, and other trees common in Europe, are unknown. Tribes, Manners, and Customs. The inhabitants are divided into two great branches, called Belooches and Brahooees, dif fering in their language, figure, and manners, and each subdi vided into a number of minor tribes. The Belooches are tall, and well formed, and have small bones, long faces, with prominent features, a dark complexion, and black hair. They are indolent and dissolute, avaricious, vindictive, and cruel. The Brahooees, so called from the words bah-roh-i [on the waste], are much shorter and broader than the Belooches; and have large bones, round faces, and flat features, their hair and beards frequently brown. Many of the females are pretty. They are most numerous in the province of Jhalawan, and in the N. and W. parts, but are found everywhere. They have greater physical strength, and are less addicted to rapine and predatory violence than the Belooches. . Both races, but par ticularly the Brahooees, are pastoral. Both races are hospit able, brave, and capable of enduring much fatigue. They live in rude tents, made of black felt or coarse cloth, of goat or camel hair, stretched over a frame of wicker-work. Their usual dress is an under-coat, trowsers gathered at the ankle, and a white or blue tunic of cotton cloth, with a scarf about the waist. In winter, men of rank wear an upper-coat or tunic of quilted cotton, and the lower orders a rough capote of felt or coarse cloth. The dress of the women within doors is much the same as that of the men, excepting that their trowsers are wider, and their cotton tunic is open in front below the bosom, When they go abroad, they muffle them selves up from head to foot in a long shroud-like mantle. Both Belooches and Brahooees are of the Soonee sect of Mahometans, and opposed to the Shiites, Neither race pos sesses a written language, and their early histories have not been preserved. The Belooche language resembles the modern Persian, the Brahooee the Hindoo. The other inhabitants of Beloochistan are few in number, and consist principally of Hindoos, who are found in almost all the towns ; Dehwars or villagers, of Persian descent, and speaking the Persian lan guage, who are engaged in agricultural and other settled pursuits ; and Jets, of Indian origin, who speak a peculiar dialect, called Jetki, allied to Hindoostanee, and form the bulk of the fixed population of Cutch Gundava ; while others of them lead a wandering life, like the gypsies of Europe. All the Belooches are excellent marksmen, and attached to field sports. Gambling, of various kinds, is one of their chief amusements. They keep as many slaves as they can main tain, and often domesticate and treat kindly the captives carried off in their predatory excursions. Polygamy is uni versal. Few, however, have more than two wives. Some of the chiefs have four. Wives are obtained by purchase, payment being made in sheep, &c. The ceremony of marriago is performed by the mollah or priest, and a man is expected to marry the widow of a deceased brother. On the occur rence of a death, the body is watched for three nights by the friends and neighbours, and the time is passed in feasting. Animals. The domestic animals are horses, mules, and asses, camels, and dromedaries ; sheep, goats, cows, and buf faloes. The sheep are generally of the fat-tailed species. The horses are strong, bony, and large, but vicious. The best are to be found in the N. and W., where the breed is much improved by the admixture of Arabian and Persian blood. The wild animals are numerous. Leopards, wolves, lyeuas, jackals, tiger-cats, and foxes, are found in the jungles ; but except on the E border, lions and tigers are rarely seen. There are also wild dogs, wild asses, antelopes, elks, red and noose deer, hares, mongooses, mountain goats, and wild hogs, with various sorts of monkeys. Reptiles and insects are not common. Of birds, there are almost every kind, including eagles, vultures, kites, falcons, and magpies ; parroquets, mainas, the variety of kingfisher called mitu, herons, flam- ngoes, bustards, black partridges, and snipes. Fowls and pigeons are plentiful ; and the thickets in the hot districts abound with the jungle-fowl. Geese, ducks, and turkeys are not found in the country. On the coast, fish are caught in great quantities. Trade and Commerce. The manufactures of Beloochistan are confined to a few matchlocks and other fire-arms at Kclat, .nd the trade is very unimportant. Besides horses, the only exports are, grain from Cutch Gundava and Lus, and dates from Mekran ; with butter, hides, wool, a few coarse drugs, dried fruits, and vegetable oil. The imports consist of a small quantity of British and Indian silk and cotton manufactured goods, some metals, rice, betel-nut, sugar, spices, and dyed stuffs ; with salt from Mooltan, and slaves from Muscat. Gacernment. The government is despotic, the Khan hav ing unlimited power over life, person, and property. He usually resides in Kelat, and his rule is almost confined to the immediate province around it ; the greater part of the country being held by tribes who acknowledge subjection only to their own chiefs. He has no standing army, but all the heads of tribes are bound to furnish contingents of men in case of war, as well as to pay tribute an obligation which is often evaded. The Khan s revenues are estimated at up wards of 30,000. He has a great number of household slaves, from among whom he selects fit persons to be ap pointed governors of towns and provinces. Modern History. About the middle of the last century, Beloochistan was made tributary by Nadir Shah, who be stowed it on Nasir Khan, with the title of Beglerbeg or com- mander-in-chief. The latter greatly extended the Belooche dominions, and was the ablest ruler who has ever governed Beloochistan. On his death, in 1795, the country was left in a comparatively prosperous condition ; but since the com mencement of the present century, especially since 1809 and 1810, it has suffered much from intestine wars and revolutions, and its territorial boundaries have been greatly curtailed. In March 1839, on the advance of the British army of the Indus through the Bolan Pass towards Afghanistan, the conduct of Mehrab Khan, the ruler of Beloochistan, was marked with so much hostility, that Major-General Willshire was detached to assault Kelat, which, with the citadel, was taken by storm after a siege of a few hours, Nov. 13, the same year. The Khan himself, and about 400 of his troops were slain ; and BELOEADO 371 BEN 2000 of his soldiers became prisoners. In 1840, the governor established at Kelat by the British, with a feeble garrison of sepoys, was overpowered by the Belooches ; but, at the close of the same year, the capital was re-occupied by the army under G eneral Nott. In 1841, Mir Nasir Khan, the youthful son of Mehrab Khan, was recognized as ruler by the British, who soon after left the country. Principal town, Kelat. Pop. uncertain, being computed at 450,000 to 2,000,000, which is presumed to be nearest the truth. (Masson s Jour neys in Beloocliistan, Afghanistan, and the Punjab; Elphin- stone s Account of Cabool; Pottinger s Beloochistan; Hart s Journey from Kurrachce.) BELORADO, a tn. Spain, Old Castile, prov. of, and 25 m. E. Burgos, 1. bank, Tiron. It has ill-made streets, three small squares, as many parish churches, a Latin and two other schools, prison, chapter-house, hospital, some convents, a cemetery, and some vestiges of the ancient walls and castle. Coarse cloth, sacks, linen, and earthenware are made, but tillage is the chief employment. Pop. 1897. BELP, a tn. Switzerland, can. of, and 5 m. S.E. Bern, at the foot of the Belpberg, near Ifbank, Aar, which occasionally inundates it. The mountain of Belp, which extends S. from the town, parallel to the Aar, furnishes excellent grindstones, and some good veined marbles. On its side are the ruins of the castle of Hohburg. Pop. (Protestants), 3146. BELPASSO, a tn. Sicily, cap. can. same name, dist. of, and 8 m. N.W. Catania, about the same distance S. Mount Etna. Pop. 2500. BELPECH, a tn. France, dep. Aude, 14 m. S.W. Cas- telnaudary, r. bank, Lers, formerly a place of importance, but the religious wars, and several destructive fires, almost anni hilated it. Woollen cloths are made here. Pop. 1496. BELPER, a market tn. England, co. Derby, in a valley, 1. bank, Derwent, over which there is a handsome stone bridge of three arches, 7 m. N. Derby, on the Midland Railway. It consists of several streets, partially paved, lighted with gas, and amply supplied with water from wells and pumps. The older houses of the town are fast disappearing, and are being replaced by handsomer and more commodious buildings, while numerous neat little villas, with flower gardens, orchards, &c., attached, are fast rising on the elevated grounds around the town. An elegant new church was built here recently, at an expense of nearly 12,000, and another is now (1850) in course of erection. There are places of worship, besides, for Independ ents, Wesleyan and Primitive Methodists, Baptists, Unita rians, and Plymouth Brethren ; a national, Wesleyan, and infant school ; a mechanics institution, library, and two neat alms-houses. Belper owes its prosperity to its cotton, and silk and cotton hosiery manufactures, which are very extensive, the latter said to be the largest in the kingdom, while the for mer, one company alone, employs 2000 persons. Nails and eartlienware are also manufactured here to a great extent. Pop. 9885. (Local Correspondent.} BELSTEAD, par. Eng. Suffolk; 1090 ac. Pop. 261. BELSTONE, par. Eng. Devon ; 2010 ac. Pop. 208. BELT (GREAT and LITTLE). The GREAT BELT, a strait forming the central communication between the Baltic and the Kattegat, and separating the island of Ftihnen from that of Zeeland. Its length is about 37 m., its medium breadth 18 m. The depth of its channel ranges between 6 and 26 fathoms. It has many shoals, and the navigation through it is difficult. In autumn and winter, ships have often a rough passage. Owing to the strength of the current it is seldom frozen over, but is often much encumbered with drift ice. Lighthouses with fixed lights, chiefly for the purpose of guiding the packets between Fiihnen and Zeeland, have been placed on Knudshoved, an E. promontory of Fiihnen, on Halstov, on the W. coast of Zeeland, and on Sprogo, a small island which lies in the middle of the strait between these two points, and is constantly wearing away by the force of the waves. The LITTLE BELT is another strait, forming the W. communication between the Baltic and the Kattegat, and separating the island of Fiihnen from the mainland of Jut land. Its length is about 30 m. ; its breadth varies from 1000 yards to 12 m. ; its depth ranges between 5 and 30 fathoms. The same inconveniences and dangers beset this passage as the former. It is annually frozen up from December to April. The two Belts, with the Sound, form the only com munication between the Baltic and the Kattegat. BELTON, five pars. Eng.: 1, par. Leicester ; 1900 ac. Pop. 718. 2, par. Lincoln; 3120 ac. Pop. 176. 3, par. Lincoln; 8530 ac. Pop. 17064, par. Rutland; 2380 ac. Pop. 402. 5, par. Suffolk ; 2120 ac. Pop. 465. BELTURBET, a market tn. Ireland, co. Cavan, r. bank, Erne, over which there is a new stone bridge, 8 m. N.W. Cavan. It is irregularly built ; has straggling and mean streets, a parish church, a 11. Catholic chapel, a Methodist meeting-house, several schools, a small cavalry barrack, a dispensary, and alms-houses for six poor widows. There is a weekly market for corn, which is well attended; and barges with timber, coals, &c., navigate the Erne to and from the town. Pop. 2070. BELUGYUN, or BELOOGYOON, other names for BALU (which see] . BELVEDERE, a tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Citra, 28 m. N.W. Cosenza, on a hill close to the Mediterranean. It has a fort, several churches and convents, and three monts-de- piete for portioning poor girls. The wine and raisins of the district are of good quality. Pop. 3970. BELVES, a tn. France, dep. Dordogne, 32 m. S.S.E. Perigeux, on the brow of a hill that overlooks several valleys. Its public square is large and handsome, but the streets which terminate in, or open into, the principal street, are narrow and irregular. The extraction of oil from nuts is carried on here to a large extent. Manufactures : paper, leather, serges, and hosiery. Belves is the entrepot for the wines and agricultural produce of the district, which are conveyed in boats to Bordeaux. Pop. 1851. BELYANDO, a river, N. Australia, about 190 m. from the E. coast, to which it runs parallel throughout the greater part of its course. It joins, under the name of Cape River, the Suttor River at lat. 20 25 S.; Ion. 147 3 E. The portion of the river called the Belyando was discovered by Sir T. L. Mitchell, in 1846; that part called the Cape was discovered, at an earlier period, by Leiehhardt. BELZ, a tn. Galicia, gov. Lemberg, circle of, and 21m. N. Zolkiew, on the Zolokia, in a plain surrounded by forests. The houses are, for the most part, constructed of wood. There are here an old castle, two handsome churches, and a potash-work. Pop. 2400, of whom 600 are Jews. BELZIG, a tn. and circle, Prussia, gov. Potsdam. The TOWN, on a small stream of the same name, 23 m. S.W. Pots dam, has an old castle, three churches, an hospital, and con siderable manufactures of linen and woollen cloth, and paper. Pop. 2500. The CIRCLE, area about 565 geo. sq. m., is flat, and of considerable fertility, producing all the ordinary grain and pulse crops, hops, flax, and some wine. Manufac tures both of woollen and linen goods exist, particularly the latter. There are also breweries, distilleries, tanneries, paper, and other mills. A considerable quantity of vermicelli is pre pared. Pop. 55,640. BEMBATOOKA, a tn. and bay, N.W. coast, Madagascar, N.E. or Majunka Point; lat. 15 42 54" S.; Ion. 46 20 30" E. (R.) The town, an insignificant place, is on the N.E. side of the bay, which is large and safe. The entrance to this bay is about 3 m. wide, clear of danger, the depths irregular, from 18 or 20 fathoms to 6 and 7 fathoms in some places. This bay is esteemed an eligible place to refresh a fleet of ships. Bullocks are plentiful at 8s. tid. each ; rice and other articles may also be procured at reasonable prices. BEMBR1DGE, a vil. England, E. side, Isle of Wight, 4 m. S.E. Ryde. It was formerly a mere collection of fish ermen s huts, but is now a favourite watering-place. BEMMEL, a vil. Holland, prov. Gelderland, 3 m. N.E. Nijmegen. It is an agreeable beautiful village, surrounded by shady lanes and rich fields of grain and tobacco, and fine meadows and orchards. It has a Calvinistic and a R. Cath olic church, two benevolent societies, three brick fields, and an extensive brewery. Pop. 1200. BEMPTON, par. Eng. York, E. Riding; 1930 ac. P.313. BEN, BEIN, or BUEIN, a Gaelic word, signifying an ele vated summit, and applied with various distinguishing affixes to a number of the highest Scottish mountains, the principal, or, at any rate, the most widely known, of which are : 1 , Bcnlawcrs, co. Perth, 31 m. W.N.W. Perth, height, 3945ft.; being the fourth highest mountain in Scotland. It is of easy ascent, and the view from it singularly grand and imposing. It is rich in rare and beautiful specimens of alpine plants, in- BENABARRE 372 BENARES eluding Gentiana nivalis. Eutilitc, an ore of titanium, a scarce metallic mineral, is found here. Scott speaks of this moun tain in the Fair Maid of Perth, as The frowning mountain of Benlawers. 2, Denial!, co. Perth, 2 in. W. Callander, 3009 ft. high. It derives its name from the Gaelic words Beinn-lc- Dia [the hill of God], supposed to have been so called by the Druids, who had a place of worship on its summit. The view from it is magnificent, including the Friths of Forth and Clyde, the towering hills of Arran, .and a large portion of the Grampian range. Allusion is made to it in Scott s Lady of the Lake: Beuledi saw the cross of fire, &c. 3, Benlomond, co. Stirling, on the E. side of Lochlomond, from which it rises by a succession of swelling knolls. The height has been va riously stated, from 3190 to 3240 ft. On the S.E. side, it presents a sheer precipice of about 2000 ft. By the usual route to the summit, the distance is 6 in. of continuous ascent, and generally occupies about three hours. The lower regions are finely wooded, and the intervening knolls comparatively smooth and verdant. It commands a prospect of vast extent and sublimity, including the beautiful lake below, with its numerous islands. 4, Benmacdhu or Benmacdhuie, co. Aber deen. The precise height of this mountain also is uncertain, being variously stated from 4290 to 4305 ft. It disputes with Bennevis, the honour of being the highest hill in Scotland. 5, Benmore, the name of three mountains in Scotland, of re markable elevation one in co. Perth, 44 m. W. by S. from the city of that name, height, 3818 ft.; a second in the island of Mull, co. Argyle, height, 3168 ft.; and the third in co. Sutherland, height, 3231 ft. 6, Bennevis, co. Inverness, re puted the highest mountain in Scotland, the height assigned to it being 4380 ft. It is thus 809 ft. higher than Snowdon, the highest mountain in Wales, and 1214 ft. higher than Scawfell, the highest in England. Its circumference at the base is supposed to exceed 24 m. On the N.E. side, there is a tremendous precipice of 1500 ft. sheer descent, and in the clefts of the rocks on this side, snow is found all the year round. To reach its summit is a laborious achievement, and should never be attempted, but by those capable of enduring much fatigue, nor ever without a guide. 7, Benwyvis, co. Ross. As in the cases of most of the other Scottish mountains, the height of Benwyvis is variously stated, from 3722 to 3426 ft. With the exception of the year 1826, the summit of this mountain has never been entirely free from snow in the memory of man. In the September of that year, how ever, it had wholly disappeared. 8, Bencruachan, co. Argyle, on the banks of Loch Awe ; 3669 ft. 9, Benvoirlich [Great Mountain of the lake], co. Perth, S. side of Loch Earn ; 3180 ft. ; by other authorities, 3300 ft. (For other remarkable ele vations, see SCOTLAND.) BENABARRE, or BENAVARRA, a fortified tn. Spain, Aragon, prov. of, and 35 m. E. by S. Huesca, at the base of a limestone bill, defended by a castle, surrounded by a stone wall, and having six gates. It has narrow streets, a ^rand square, parish church, townhall, college, hospital, small and unwholesome prison, public fountains, and baths. Tillage, the manufacture of hempen shoes, brandy distilleries, and an oil expressary, afford the chief employment. Pop. 1900. BENACO. See GAKDA. BENAGAUCIL, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 14 m. N.W. Valencia, 1. bank, Turia. It comprises two large and three smaller squares, an ancient castle, townhouse, prison, parish church, two endowed schools, and a storehouse. The in habitants are chiefly occupied in agriculture and weaving. Pop. 3577. BEN-AHIN, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. Liege, 3 m. W. Huy, r. bank, Mouse, with manufactures of woollen stuffs, leather, gunpowder, and paper ; and some trade in oil and wood. It has also breweries and limekilns. Pop. 1466. BENAMARGOSA, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 18 m. E. by N. Malaga, on the river of same name. It has steep, narrow, and badly- paved streets, a square, parish church, chapel, endowed school, two fountains, and a cemetery. The inhabitants are engaged in tillage and mule-driving ; besides expressing oil. and distilling brandy. A considerable quantity and variety of fruit is grown in the vicinity, and sent to Malaga. Pop. 3200. BENAMEJI, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 38 m. S. by W. Cordova, in a plain, surrounded, on the N.E., S., and W., by precipitous mountains. It has well-made clean streets, two large squares, a paiish church, chapel of ease, townhouse, hospital, public storehouse, small, damp, un healthy prison, a palace, and a cemetery. The inhabitants are employed in agriculture, and in the manufacture of bass mats, soap, and vinegar, which they export. Pop. 4552. BENAMOCARRA, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 20 m. E. by N. Malaga, on a rising ground at the base of the sierra de Eeugel, near the river Benamargosa. It has three squares, and badly-made, unpaved, and dirty streets ; a Gothic parish church, civil and ecclesiastical court-houses, two schools, a public storehouse, prison, cemetery, and three fountains of mineral waters ; with baths much esteemed as remedies for scorbutic and cutaneous disorders. Manufac tures : linen fabrics of all kinds, brandy, wine, and oil. Fruit is extensively cultivated in the vicinity, and exported. Pop. 2364. BENAOCAZ, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 60 m. N.E. Cadiz, in a mountainous district E. of the Guadelcte, and W. of the sierra de Ronda ; having a parish church and townhouse. It is celebrated also for its beautiful promenade and avenue, adorned with fountains and gardens. Pop. 3176. BENAOJAN, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 42 m. W.N.W. Malaga, at the base of the sierra de Juan Diego. It has a parish church, two schools, a ruinous prison, and two fine fountains ; two oil-mills, a soapwork, and distillery. Trade in agricultural products, grain, fruits, and vegetables. Pop. 2377. BENARES, one of the N.W. provinces, Hindoostan, for merly included in that of Allahabad, presid. Bengal. It lies chiefly between lat. 24 and 26 N., and Ion. 82 and 84 30 E. ; and is divided into five districts, the names of which, with their area, population, &c., will be seen in the accompanying table: Gorackpore Aziraghur Jounpore Mirzapore Benares Ghazeepore No. of Town ships. in gfo sq. m. Ana in Acres. Land Revenue in Total Pop. 1845-6. j Site geo. m. 15,607 6,277 3,380 8,208 2,0] A 2,38S 5,521 l.MW 1,111 -!,:>< 7 691 1,650 4,677,792 l,609.39(i 968.970 1,954,120 585,318 1,398,2:55 11,193,831 206,538 149,217 125,361 90.819 91,402 149,839 2,.S8(i,831 97^.7 ^ (itse.OUl 726,13* 554,112 1,059,08? 132-3 515-4 599-0 314-7 801-9 641-0 Total 52,865 13,212 813,179 |ti,390 ; 970 483-7 About five-sixths of the whole consist of a well-cultivated flat on both sides of the Ganges, abundantly watered by that river, and by the Goomty, Caramnassa, Sone, &c. The climate, which is cold enough in winter to make fires agree able, is in summer scorching, from the N.W. winds which set in after March, and continue for three months. Not much rice is grown. The chief productions are wheat, barley, legumes, flax, indigo, tobacco, betel-nut, sugar, and opium. The last is a Government monopoly, and Benares and Bahar are the only provinces of Bengal presidency in which its cul tivation is allowed. Benares is one of the most flourishing provinces in India. The chief manufactures are flowered muslins, brocades, and ornamented gauzes ; some salt, of in ferior quality, is made, but the greater part is imported. The principal export is indigo. In 1775, the Nabob of Oude ceded Benares to the East India Company, and the Rajah has since become merely a stipendiary. BENARES [Sanscrit, Varanashi or Kasi the splendid], a large and populous city, Hindoostan, the ecclesiastical me tropolis of India, presidency Bengal, cap. prov. and dist. of same name, 1. bank, Ganges, 400 m. N.W. Calcutta; lat. 25 18 33" N.; Ion. 82 55 51" E. (L.) The Ganges here makes a sweep of about 4 m. long, and on the convex side of the curve stands the most holy city of the Hindoos, the Lotus of the world : believed by the natives not to belong to earth at all, but to be perched upon the top of one of the prongs of the trident of the god Shiva. The streets are so exceedingly narrow, that it is difficult to pass through them even on horseback, while some houses are connected, with those on the opposite side of the street, by balconies. The city, seen from the river, presents the form of an amphi theatre, extending for 3 m. along the banks of the river, which are elevated some 40 or 50 ft., above which are reared a series of temples and palaces but chiefly the latter with superb ghauts or flights of steps. The palaces are those of BENARES 373 BENARES the Indian Rajahs and Indian chieftians, from one end of In dia almost to the other ; every independent potentate being earnestly desirous to have a palace in Benares, so that, once in his life, at least, he may make a pilgrimage to the holy city ; and that, when not there, he may have a resident repre sentative in the person of an official, or some member of his family. Many of the houses are built of stone, six stories in height, with small windows, each story inhabited by a separate family; some of the larger houses thus contain, perhaps, 200 persons ; the walls are daubed with mythological representa tions from the Hindoo pantheon. The more wealthy Hindoos live in detached houses, with open courts, and surrounded by walls. The British and other Europeans reside chiefly at Seroli, a handsome well-built village, about 2 m. from the city ; they are few in number, consisting principally of officials connected with the G o vernment, and courts of j ustice ; medical men, and a few merchants ; indigo planters, and persons em ployed in the Government mint. Besides the native popula tion, there are settled in Benares a great number of Turks, Tartars, Persians, and Armenians. The Rajah s palace stands at Bamnaghur, about 1 m. above the city, on the opposite side of the river, where is also a superb temple built by Cheyt Singh ; and, on an elevated and conspicuous site, on the city side of the river, the Emperor Aurungzebe erected, in the 17th century, a magnificent mosque. There are numerous other mosques, many of them inconveniently situated ; also a number of Hindoo temples, stuck, says Bishop Heber, like shrines, in the angles of the streets, and under the shadow of the lofty houses. Their forms, however, are not ungraceful, and many of them are covered over with beautiful and elaborate carvings of flowers, animals, and palm-branches ; equalling, in minute ness and richness, the best specimens that I have seen of Gothic or Grecian architecture. Fakirs houses, as they are called, adorned with idols, and sending out an unceasing tinkling of discordant instruments, occur at every turn ; while religious mendicants, with distorted limbs, and in hideous attitudes of penance, literally line the chief streets on both Bides. An old observatory, founded before the Mussulman con quest, and still very entire, though not made use of, is one of the most interesting and singular objects in the city. It is of stone, with a large square tower, containing instruments, chiefly of stone, of which many had been evidently used for judicial astrology. A few miles E. of Seroli is the Saranath, a remarkable monument, 40 to 50 ft. in diameter, seemingly of solid masonry ; considered, by some, to be of Grecian origin ; but alleged, by the inhabitants of Benares, to be a Buddhist structure. This city and its environs, for a distance of 10 m. round, are held sacred by the Hindoos ; and the number of pilgrims who resort hither, during religious festivals, from all parts of India, and even from Thibet and Burmah, is very great. It is crowded with mendicant priests, and there are, it is said, 8000 houses occupied by Brahmins who live on the alms and offerings of the pilgrims. Several of the natives here are men of affluence, who act as bankers, and are wont to facilitate the money operations of the East India Company. Some deal in diamonds, and other precious stones, brought hither from Bundelcund. Benares is, in fact, says Heber, a very industrious and wealthy, as well as a very holy city. It is the great mart where the shawls of the N., the diamonds of the S., and the muslins of Dacca and the E. provinces centre ; and it has considerable silk, cot ton, and fine woollen manufactures of its own ; while English hardware, swords, shields, and spears, from Lucknow and Monghyr, and various European luxuries, circulate througli Bundelcund, Gorruckpoor, Nepaul, and other tracts which are removed from the main artery of the Ganges. Benares has long been the most celebrated seat of Brahminical learning in Hindoostan ; and is still so revered, that many foreign Hindoo Rajahs keep vakeels or deputies here to perform for them the requisite oblations and sacrifices. The Hindoo Sanscrit col lege of Benares, founded in 1791, is the chief seat of native learning in India ; an English class was added to this college in 1827, when the number of students was 259; in 1830, the number of students was increased to 287. In 1811, it was found necessary to re-model the regulations of the Hindoo college, and to correct the prevailing abuses. A great many other schools have been established here by missionaries MADHOEAY GHATJT, AND THE MINARETS, HENARES, from the River. From Prinsep s Benares Illustrated. and others, of late years, which are well attended ; in one of these, upwards of 200 scholars are taught English, Hindoo- stance, Persian, and Arabic, as well as writing, arithmetic, geography, general history, and astronomy; there are also BENASAL 374 BENE private teachers of both Mahometan and Hindoo law. The vicinity of the city is fertile and well cultivated, but very bare of wood ; fuel is, consequently, scarce and high -priced. In 1017, the city was taken by Sultan Mahmood, and, from 1 190, followed the fortunes of the Delhi sovereigns until 1775, when it devolved to the British, under whom it has enjoyed perfect tranquillity, with the exception of one single instance of temporary disturbance. Pop. about 200,000. (Heber s Narrative; Hamilton sEastliulia Gaz.; Parliamentary Papers.} BENASAL, a tn. Spain, Valencia, prov. of, and 30 m. N. Castellon de la Plana. It has three squares, a parish church, three chapels, townhall, prison, a Latin and two other schools, two fountains, and a cemetery. Manufactures : soap and woollen fabrics, but the chief occupation is agricul ture. Pop. 2108. BENATEK, several small places, Bohemia; the only one of importance is the municipal town of Benatek or New Benatek, cap. of a circle of same name, r. bank, Iser, about 20 m. N.E. Prague ; with an old castle, which was long the residence of the famous astronomer, Tycho Brahe. Pop. of tn. 904 ; of circle, 5347. BENAVENTE. 1, A tn. Spain, Leon, prov. of, and 23 m. N. by E. Zamora. It is overlooked by a castle, and is surrounded by an old decayed wall, entered by six gates. Its squares and principal streets are spacious, well paved, and clean, but want uniformity. It has six churches, one Latin and seven other schools, townhouse, three hospitals, two prisons, storehouse, ecclesiastical court, a bishop s palace, and one belonging to the Counts of Benavente ; many of the above edifices, especially the last, are of high antiquity, and of con siderable architectural merit ; and in some of the churches several good pictures, and good specimens of monumental sta tuary, are preserved. Manufactures: linen, woollen, silken, and cotton fabrics, and velvets, which are exported to some extent. Three annual fairs. Pop. 12,464. (Madoz.) 2, A tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Estremadura, dist. Saiitarem ; in a beautiful plain, 1. bank, Zatas, 26 m. N.E. Lisbon. It has a royal palace, and an annual fair, which lasts three days. Pop. 1860. BENBECULA, a small isl. Scotland, one of the outer Hebrides, co. Inverness ; lat. 57 28 N. ; Ion. 7 18 W. ; lying between the islands of N. and S. Uist, separated from the latter by a channel half a mile broad, which is dry at low water. The island is 8 m. long by 8 broad, and mostly flat, sandy, and unproductive ; and contains numerous fresh-water lakes, and its shores are serrated with bays, lochs, and inlets. There are no trees now on the island, but the trunks and branches that are being constantly dug out of the mosses afford evi dence that it must have been at one time well wooded. A good deal of moss land has been lately brought under cultiva tion here, and considerable improvement generally has taken place in the mode of agriculture. The language spoken is Gaelic. The ordinary food of the peasantry, who are not of very cleanly habits, consists of barley-bread, potatoes, milk, and occasionally fish. The rents are mostly paid in kelp. Anciently there was a nunnery in this island, and the ruins of several old castles still exist; one of them, called Caisteal a Bhrelidcr or the Weaver s Castle, is a very conspicuous object. Pop. 2107. BENCOOLEN [Dutch, Bengkoelen and Benloelen ; pro- perly, Banyka-lwoloo\,3. tn.,W. coast, isl. Sumatra, cap. Dutch prov. of same name. It is protected by Fort Marlborough, and lies at the mouth of a small river, in an unhealthy situa tion, on a contracted, incommodious, and insecure roadstead, and in a thinly-peopled district; lat. (Fort Marlborough) 3 47 36" S. ; Ion. 102 19 E. (R.) At one time, it was the first town on the W. coast of the island ; but, not being ad vantageously situated for commerce, it is now far eclipsed by Padang, the residence of the governor of Sumatra. As a whole, the town is mean-looking ; the houses of the Chinese inhabitants are mostly in a falling condition. The houses of the Europeans are built apart from each other, and have stone foundations, but the upper parts are constructed of wood, on account of the earthquakes to which the locality is subject; one which occurred in 1833, destroyed the only Christian church, and injured nearly all the houses in the place. The old and new governor s houses, situated within the fort, are both respectable-looking edifices ; the former is surrounded by a | pleasant park, planted with cocoa-nut and nutmeg trees.- The only other public building of importance is the Roema-Pand- jang, in which are all the Government offices. The trade of Bencoolen has declined greatly from what it was formerly. The imports consist of cloths, rice, and salt, by the Bugis and Bali traders ; handkerchiefs, tobacco, sugar, and various other articles, from Batavia; opium, taffetics, coarse cloths, chintzes, and white cloths, from Bengal ; salt, and blue and white piece goods, from Coromandel ; iron, steel, cloth, beads, brass wire, cutlery, and printed cottons, from Europe ; and gambir, salt fish, oil, salted eggs, poultry, salted fish roes, timber, and planks, from the N. parts of the island. The principal exports are coffee, sugar, and wood, with pepper, nutmegs, cloves, benzoin, and camphor. The town was formerly several miles further N., where the British settled in 1685, and, in 1690, built Fort York. In 1714, they built Fort Marlborough, on the site of the present town, as being a more healthy locality. In April 1825, Bencoolen, which had always been maintained at a great loss by the British, was ceded, with their other settlements on the island of Sumatra, to the Dutch, in ex change for their possessions on the continent of Asia. The population is very mixed, being composed of Europeans, Javanese, Bengalese, Malays, and 600 or 700 poor Chinese ; total, 6000, or not more than half the number it formerly contained. The PROVINCE of Bencoolen is a mountainous district, and lies on the W. side of a mountainous range ; and all its streams flow to the Indian Ocean. It extends from the river Mandjoeta, S.E., to Point Basse; or from about lat. 2 20 to C S., with a breadth varying from 5 to 40 m. It is thinly peopled. Its principal products are benzoin, camphor, cassia, cotton, indigo, rice, ivory, gold, and tin. The culti vation of cloves and nutmegs, formerly carried on to a con siderable extent, is understood now not to be very extensive. Pop. variously estimated, from 94,000 to 200,000. (Van der Aa ; Temminck, Coup d ceil Monitevr des Indes.) BENDEM1E, or KUR [anc. Araxes], a river, Persia, which rises among the mountains of Zagroosch, on the fron tiers of Irak-Ajemi and Khuzistan, and, after a S.E. course of nearly 300 m., falls into the W. extremity of the salt lake, Baghtegan, 55 m. E. Shiraz. It is wholly within prov. Fars, and its chief affluent is the Ab or Cyrus. The passage of Alexander the Great over the Bendemir, is celebrated. A village, also called BENDEMIR, and traversed by the river, lies 30 m. N.E. Shiraz. BENDEK, a tn. European Russia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. Bessarabia, 34 m. S.E. Kijenef, r. bank, Dniester. It is a fortified town, having a citadel. It likewise has a leather manufacture. In the environs is Varnitza, a locality famed as the retreat of Charles XII., King of Sweden, from 1709 to 1712, after the battle of Pultowa. Bender once had some importance, but lost it long before it was ceded by the Turks, in 1812. The Russians took it by assault in 1770, and again in 1809. Pop. (1849), 14,820. BENDER-ABBAZ or ABASS, or GOMBEROON, a seaport tn. Persia, prov. Kcrman, opposite the island of Ormus, at the entrance to the Persian Gulf; lat. 26 10 N. ; Ion. 56 15 E. During the period that Ormus was occupied by the Dutch, it was a place of great importance. Though a considerable quantity of goods are still landed here for transmission into the interior of Persia, yet the town has much fallen off from its former condition, no trace of its splendour now remaining, excepting the ruins of the dwellings of the Europeans. It is a town of Arab construction, and is only inhabited during winter, the summer heat being so suffocating, and being suc ceeded by dangerous fevers. A good deal of trade is done in fish, caught plentifully in the gulf; and salt, fruits, and sul phur, the latter obtained in the vicinity, are shipped to Mascat. The roadstead is by no means secure. Bender-Abbaz, though situated in Persia, is a dependency of the Imaun of Mascat. BENDOEF, a tn. Prussia, gov. circle of, and 6 m. N. Coblentz, r. bank, Rhine; with a valuable iron mine, and two iron furnaces. The vineyards and orchards of the vicinity employ a great number of the inhabitants. It has also stone quarries, clay pits, tileworks, some manufactures of cloth, and a mill for spinning worsted. Pop. 2063. BENE, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 11 m. N. Mondovi, between the Sture and the Tanaro. It has a col lege, an old castle, and an hospital. This town has arisen out of the ruins of the ancient Avyusta Bayiennorum, destroyed by Alaric, and of which many interesting vestiges are found at BENEFIELD 375 BENGAL Roveglia, about half a mile distant. The ruins of an aqueduct, amphitheatre, baths, and other buildings, extend over a con siderable tract of ground. North of Bene is the district of Salmoria, anciently called Sarmatia, from the Sarmatiaas who settled there during the lower empire. Pop. 5600. BENEFIELD, par. Eng. Northampton ; 5100 ac. P. 533. BENENDEN, par. Eng. Kent ; 6780 ac. Pop. 1594. BENESCHAU, a tn. Bohemia, circle, Beraun, 23 m. S.S.E. Prague; with two churches, one of them ancient, and in ruins ; a Piarist college and gymnasium, and an hospital. The inhabitants live chiefly by weaving and agriculture. Pop. 2000. Other four places in Bohemia, two in Prussia, and one in Moravia, have the same name. BENET, a vil. France, dep. Vende e, 12 m. E.S.E. Fontenay, in a fertile plain ; with manufactures of woollen and linen goods. Pop. 1364. BENEVENTE, a maritime tn. Brazil, prov. Espirito- Santo, 1. bank, river of same name, 50 m. S.W. Victoria; having the church on an eminence behind, and the vicar s house, sessional chambers, townhall, and prison all in one building, which was formerly a church. Before the town is a bay, affording shelter to vessels. The port is one of the most frequented in the province. The building of merchant vessels is carried on here to a limited extent. Pop. of tn. and dist, chiefly agricultural, 3000. The KIVEH Bene- vente has an E.S.E. course of about 70 m., and is deep at its mouth, forming a good harbour for merchant vessels. BENEVENTO [anc. Seneventum] , a city, Papal States, cap. deleg. of same name, situated on the declivity of a hill, near the confluence of the Calore and Sabbato, 31 m. N.E. Naples; lat. 41 7 N.; Ion. 14 43 E. It is about 2 m. in circumference, surrounded by walls, and defended by a castle. It contains a number of interesting antiquities, and many of the walls of the modern buildings are constructed of frag ments of the altars, tombs, and columns of ancient Bene- ventum. The monument in best preservation is the triumphal arch of Parian marble, erected in honour of Trajan, by the Eoman senate, about the year 114. It forms one of the gates of the city, called the Porta Aurea, and is ornamented with sculp tures of exquisite workmanship. The other public buildings are the palazzo publico or townhall, the archiepiscopal palace, the cathedral, eight other churches, and several convents. There are here, likewise, a seminary of architecture, containing a rich library ; a college, an orphan hospital, three other hospitals, and two monts-de-piete. The town is the seat of a district court, and of an archbishopric, founded in 969 ; and metro politan to ten episcopal sees. The origin of Benevento is attributed to Diomed. At first, it is said to have been called Maleventum, on account of the violence of the winds that prevailed in the district. When the Romans established a colony here, they changed its name to Beneventum. In 545, it was taken and partially destroyed by the Goths. The neighbouring plain was the field of battle where Charles of Anjou, King of Naples, de feated and slew his rival Manfred, in 1266. In the 16th century the population of the town was much more consider able than at present. The plague of 1652 carried off 4000 persons, and the earthquakes of 1688 and 1703 were also very destructive. Several councils were held here in the llth and 12th centuries. Pop. 16,316. The PROVINCE or delegation is locally within prov. Principato Ultra of Naples, but belongs to the States of the Church. It is of an elliptical form, and is traversed from E. to W. by the Calore, which divides it into two nearly equal parts; greatest length, 10 m. ; breadth, 6 m. ; area, about 45 sq. m. The surface is hilly, but the soil fertile in corn, fruit, and pasture. Game is very abundant, and the Sabato, which joins the Calore from the S., teems with fish. In the sixth century, Benevento became a dukedom under the Longobards, and was of great extent, including all their conquests in Samnium, Campania, and Apulia. On their subjugation by Charlemagne, Benevento became independent, and its dukes assumed the title of Princes. The Normans having taken it, gave it to the Pope, in whose possession, with occasional in terruptions, it has since remained. In 1806, Bonaparte gave it to Talleyrand, with the title of Prince; but it was restored in 1815, and is now governed by a cardinal, with the title of Legate. Pop. about 23,000. BENFELD, a tn. France, dep Bas-Rhin, 10 m. N.N.E. Schelestadt ; agreeably situated on the river 111, in a district which is remarkable for its fertility, and is the centre of the tobacco culture. It has cotton mills, a tannery, breweries, dyeworks, tile and brick works, and manufactures of candles, earthenware, and various articles of ironmongery. It also carries on a considerable trade in grain, tobacco, hemp, leather, &c. Pop. 2642. BENFLEET, two pars. Eng.: 1, Benfleet (North), or Little Benfleet, par. Essex ; 1730 ac. Pop. 364. 2, Benfleet (South), or Great Benfleet, par. Essex ; 2160 ac. Pop. 707. BENGAL (PRESIDENCY OF), the largest and most im portant of the three presidencies into which the British pos sessions in E. India are divided, extending between lat. 1 6 and 31 15 N., and Ion. 74 to 96 E.; bounded, N. by Raj- pootana, the Himalaya Mountains, Nepaul, and Bootan, E. by the Burman Empire, S. by the Bay of Bengal and the presid ency of Madras, and W. by Bhopal, Independent Bundelcund, and Rajpootana ; thus comprising the provinces of Bengal, Bahar, the government of Agra, composed of the N,W. provinces, Agra, Allahabad, Meerut, Delhi, Benares, and Rohilcund ; portions of Oude, Gundwana, Berar, Orissa, and the British possessions beyond the Ganges; Assam, Cachar, Aracan, the Tenasserim provinces, and the possessions in the Straits of Malacca, Penang, Malacca, and Singapore. The government is vested in the Governor-general of India, at Calcutta, and five councillors, three of whom are appointed absolutely by the East India Company ; the fourth is also ap pointed by the Company, but subject to the approbation of the sovereign ; the fifth is the commander-in-chief. These form the Supreme Council of India. The net revenues of the presidency, including the N.W. provinces (formerly Agra presidency), for 1847 and 1848, was 17,089,527. The largest items in the revenue returns of the presidency, are the land revenue, and the customs and stamp duties. The tariff, which came into operation in June 1845, levying increased duties on various descriptions of goods imported into the presidency, has had the natural effect of checking the impor tation of such goods. Woollens have fallen more than one- half, metals to nearly a half, and wines and spirits about a fourth ; the whole reduction in imports amounting to nearly a million and a half. An increase has, however, singularly enough, taken place in the importation of English salt, to the serious detriment of the Indian revenue, one of the most im portant sources of which was the sale of the native salt manufactured by Government. Both the exports and im ports of the presidency are, however, on the increase, and have been so since 1835, being now nearly double what they were then. The imports of 1842 amounted to 5,855,826, and the exports to 8,440,880. Accounts throughout the presid ency are kept in Company s rupees (value about 2s. each), to which standard all current specie must be reduced. Cowries, and other small coin formerly in use, are now disappearing, being confined to small payments amongst the natives. There is little gold in circulation ; the most common coin in that metal is the mohur, equal to 16 rupees or 1, 12s. (For trade and commerce, see CALCUTTA.) The native infantry of the presidency consists of 74 regiments, containing 80,249 men ; their number, however, varies according to circum stances, having been at times nearly the double of that named. The principal cities are, Calcutta, the British capital of India ; Delhi, the Mahometan capital ; with Benares, Moorshedabad, Dacca, Bahar, Patna, Allahabad, and Agra. For an account of the physical features of the presidency, its climate, pro ductions, &c., see the articles on the different provinces of which it is composed. Estimated area of the entire presidency, 220,312 sq. m. Pop. 69,710,071. BENGAL, a large and important prov. Hindoostan, and the principal seat of British authority in the East ; is situ ated between lat. 21 and 27 N., and Ion. 86 and 93 E., being about 400 m. N. to S., and 470 E. to W. It is bounded, N. by Nepaul, Bootan, and Assam ; S. by Orissa and the Bay of Bengal, E. by Assam, Cachar, and Burmah, and W. by the province of Bahar. Its general physical character is that of a champaign country, there being few remarkable elevations within its limits, though surrounded with lofty chains of mountains ; the N. part resting on the terraces of the Hima laya Mountains, the E. being bounded by the Garos or Garrows chain, and the W. being ribbed with offsets of the Vindhya Mountains. It is intersected in all directions by rivers, the BENGAL 376 BENGAL principal of which are the Ganges and Brahmapootra, whose annual inundations render the soil which they reach extremely fertile, particularly in the production of rice, of which it yields immense crops. In those tracts where this advantage is not important vegetable productions of the province are cotton, indigo, tobacco, sugar-cane, mulberry, and poppy, from which opium is manufactured. The fruits are pine-apples, citrons, lemons, limes, oranges, pomegranates, grapes, almonds, tama- enjoyed, the soil is thin, seldom exceeding a few inches in | rinds, and plantains. Apples and pears are met with in the depth. Notwithstanding, however, the general fertility of j N. districts, but there only. Orchards of mango-trees are to the country, the crops sometimes fail, chiefly through the ! be found in every part of Bengal, the fruit being held in the abundance of the periodical rains, when all the horrors of famine ensue, the unfortunate natives dying by thousands, of starvation. The most inhospitable part of Bengal is vhat is called the Sunderlnnds (from being covered with the highest estimation, and in general demand during the hot months. Most of the vegetables known in other countries are cultivated in the gardens, including potatoes, carrots, onions, garlic, &c. Many of them, however, become tasteless soondru or sunder-tree), that portion of the country through and insipid, as in all other tropical climates. The flowering which the numerous branches of the Ganges seek the sea, or the space lying between the river Hoogly and Chittagong, about 150 m. from E. to W., and about 1GO from N. to S. This district is infested with tigers, is traversed in all directions by water -courses or nullahs, and interspersed with numerous sheets of stagnant water, called jheels, which abound with fish and water-fowl, and are much resorted to by alligators. The greater part of these contain no water during the dry season. Geology and Minerals. In the N. part of Bengal, at the foot of the Himalayas, is a band of tertiary formation ; S. from which, and along the course of the Ganges, more especially E. from that river, and including the greater part of its delta and that of the Brahmapootra, the country is wholly composed of alluvium or modern detritus. Calcutta stands upon strata of the transition series, which stretch W. into Bahar ; and are- flanked, N. and S., by tracts of crystalline formation. In the Garos hills, coal, iron, and limestone are found ; and nitre effloresces on the surface round Calcutta and elsewhere. Mineral springs are not numerous. Rivers. The principal rivers besides the Ganges and Brahmapootra, the latter of which enters the province at its N.E. extremity, and falls into the Bay of Bengal, near the principal embouchure of the Ganges, are the Soobunreka, which trees and shrubs that grow wild, or with little care, are nu merous. Of the former, the most remarkable is the Ficus Indica or banyan-tree, whose immense size, beautiful foliage, and golden-coloured berries, with its singular manner of send ing down roots from its branches, and thus forming new stems, renders it an object at once of surprise and admiration. This tree, though of little use, is much esteemed by the natives of Bengal. Flowers are numerous, and many of them of the most gorgeous hues ; but, excepting roses and a few others, none of them have any scent. Few countries equal, and none sur pass Bengal, for useful timber. The principal trees of this description are teak (Tectona grandis), Sal (Shorea robustu), yielding a resinous exudation ; toon (Cedrela toona], well adapted for boat-building ; mahogany (Swietenia mahogani), billoo (Chloroxylon Swietenia} or satin-wood (Pterocarpus santalinus), red sandal-wood (Pterocarpus murrupium), which is said to produce a variety of gum- kino, and is impervious to insects. Several kinds of ebony, and numerous other valu able woods, are also abundant. Animals. The wild animals are lions, tigers, elephants, boars, bears, wolves, foxes, jackals, hyenas, leopards, panthers, lynxes, hares, deer, zebras, buffaloes, antelopes, apes, and monkeys. The most formidable of all these animals, not ex cepting the lion, is the tiger, which here attains its utmost falls into the Bay of Bengal in lat. 21 35 N. ; S.S.W. of the size, and perhaps also its greatest ferocity, there being, prob- Hoogly, the Cosi or Coosee, which rises near Khatamandoo in Nepaul, and falls into the Ganges near Bhagulpore in lat. ably, no animal on tha face of the earth so tremendous as the Bengal tiger, which is said to be able to clear 100 ft. at one 25 20 N. ; and the Dumooda, which, rising in Bahar, falls | spring, and to carry off a large bullock with the gi eatest into the Hoogly about 22 m. below Calcutta. There are ease. The jungles in the province are infested with them ; numerous other streams of less note, mostly tributaries of the but they are most numerous, as are lions also, on the delta of the Ganges, where they every year carry off many of the natives. Dogs, most of them without owners, swarm in the streets of every town in Bengal ; they are generally of the Ganges and Brahmapootra, or their larger affluents. Climate. There is more regularity in the changes of the seasons in Bengal, than, perhaps, in any other part of India; but it is subject to great extremes of heat, which, added to cur species, with sharp erect ears, and pointed tails. The domestic animals are native horses, thin, ill-shaped animals, and not well adapted for any kind of labour; cattle, of a very inferior breed, being extremely small and miserable-looking; sheep, likewise of diminutive size, with very coarse hairy wool; but when well fed, their flesh is excellent. Hogs and goats are also plentiful, and buffaloes are domesticated for the sake of their milk. Keptiles are numerous and for midable, including gavials, a kind of crocodile, with which the larger rivers are infested ; and, amongst the serpent tribe, many of which are highly poisonous, the deadly cobra-da- capello. Turtles, frogs, and lizards, also abound, with swarms of mosquitoes. The turtle are chiefly procured from the island of Cheduba, in the Bay of Bengal. Fish are so exceedingly plentiful, as to be within the reach of almost every class of inhabitants. Those most highly esteemed are the mango-fish (a sea fish which ascends the rivers when the mango-fruit is most abundant, hence its name), the bicktee, sable fish, ani/ mullet, the first two being especial favourites with Europeans. Game, poultry, and water-fowl of all descriptions, abound in Bengal, particularly ducks, of which there is a great variety, and most of them of a superior kind. The gigantic crane, commonly called the adjutant, from the stately air with which he struts about, frequents the towns in considerable numbers, generally cultivated, being found in almost every part of the performing the office of scavengers, by clearing the streets of province, in an endless variety of species. Forming the I garbage, in consideration of which duty he enjoys an entire chief article of food, much care is bestowed on its cultiva- immunity from all disturbance; its principal food is offal, the humidity of its surface, and the heavy dews that fall, renders it generally unhealthy to Europeans. The preval ence of hot winds, which are sometimes loaded with sandy particles, is another source of disease. The seasons are dis tinguished by the terms hot, cold, and rainy. The hot season continues from the beginning of March to the end of May, within which periods the thermometer frequently rises to 100, sometimes to 110. The month of September is also often intensely hot; and when so, is the most unhealthy period of the year to natives as well as Europeans, owing to the pro fuse exhalations from stagnant waters left by the inundations, and from a rank, decaying vegetation. The rainy season commences in June, and lasts till October. During the first two months of this period, the rain is frequently so heavy, that 5 inches of water have fallen in one day, the annual average being from 70 to 80 inche It is e day, in this season that the inundations take place, and that the Ganges overflows its delta, covering the land with its waters for more than 100 m. The cold season, the most grateful and healthful of any to Europeans, continues from November to February, during which period N. winds prevail, with a clear sky. Natural Productions. Almost all kinds of grain and pulse are grown in Bengal ; but rice (called also paddy) is the most tion ; embankments are formed to retain the water indispens able to its growth on the plains, and reservoirs are formed on the higher grounds for irrigating the lands below. Millet (called also jowary) is also extensively cultivated, and in the W. districts large quantities of maize are grown. At the commencement of the colder season, wheat and barley are sown, and are reaped before the rains set in. The next most toads, lizards, serpents, and insects. The argill or hurgill, a species of ardea. may also be noticed ; it is a large and ravenous bird, held in great veneration by the Brahmins. Crows, kites, sparrows, and other small birds, are numerous. Agriculture, Manufactures, &c. There being few gar deners by profession in India, vegetables are grown mostly by farmers; who, however, meet with little demand for them BENGAL 377 BENGAL from the natives, who have never acquired a relish for them, not even for the potato, which is rarely to be met with, excepting in the gardens of Europeans. The plant called pat, from which a stout cordage and a coarse kind of cloth is made, is largely cultivated in Bengal. It will grow on almost any description of land ; is sown generally in May, and cut down in August and September. It attains to a height of 5 or 6 ft. ; and after being cut, is steeped in water for about 10 days, when it is reduced to a substance like hemp. The greater part of this crop is cultivated by those who use or manufacture it, almost all the Hindoo farmers weaving cloth from it. About a fourth part of the whole is sold for exporta tion. The East India Company are endeavouring to promote the cultivation of an article called the son, similar in its uses to pat, affording excellent material for both sails and cordage, and from which the natives make their fishing nets. Cotton is grown over all India, but the best of the herbaceous kind is raised in Bengal and on the Coromandel coast ; the finest grows on light rocky soil. The cotton seed is sown in the latter end of October, and is gathered between the middle of April and the middle of June, the produce varying from 500 to about 800 Ibs. an acre. In the absence of rain, the cotton field is watered every 8 or 12 days, four men watering about an acre a day. The cotton of India is generally inferior to that of N. and S. America ; but this is believed to be wholly owing to careless cultivation, and to the slovenly manner in which it is prepared for the market. Sugar-cane is cultivated through out the whole valley of the, Ganges, but hitherto without much success. For the four or five years preceding 1848, the average produce of Bengal did not exceed 70,000 tons. Where a proper system of agriculture is observed, one crop only of sugar-cane is grown on the same field in three years. There are two kinds of sugar-cane, the Khagra and Kajoli. The former is a yellow hard cane, about the thickness of a finger ; the other is much thicker, is deeply stained with pur ple, and often attains a height of 12 and 14 ft. The Kajoli is by far the most productive, but the most troublesome to cultivate ; and, therefore, avoided by the most indolent farm ers ; the land on which it is grown requiring 10 or 12 double ploughings, and a great deal of manure. These ploughings take place between October and January ; the cuttings, about a foot in length, are planted in February and March, and are cut between the middle of December and the end of the fol lowing March. Extensive farmers, and these only, cut so much as an acre of cane in a year. One mill, and one set of implements used in inspissating the juice, thus serve for several farms. The mill and implements generally belong to some wealthy man, who lets them out on hire. Although the expense of cultivating sugar is more than that of cul tivating grain, the profit accruing from the former is con siderable. Tobacco, which requires a light soil, is grown in three different situations, in rich spots of land con tiguous to the farmer s house, in high land suitable for the growth of sugar-cane, and often alternating with that crop, and on the banks of rivers. The crop is generally largest in the first of these situations, and most scanty in the last. The betel leaf, famous for its intoxicating quality, and largely used over all India on that account, is cultivated in what is called a voroj or fort, and is carefully protected from the sun and wind. So great a luxury is this plant considered, and such the importance attached to it, that its cultivators form one of the nine tribes of tradesmen that were admitted to be pure. A betel garden lasts from 12 to 30 years, yielding the best return of any land in Bengal. Indigo being one of the principal articles of foreign commerce with Bengal, is extensively cultivated in that province. It is, however, a very uncertain crop, and both the soils chosen for it, and the seasons for sowing it, are various. The land most commonly selected is high, sandy, and, in general, poor. The seed is sown broadcast in March, April, and May, and is fit for cutting in four months after; its cultivation is neither so laborious nor expensive as that of rice. Indigo is also grown on the flat sandy banks of rivers, which are inundated in the rainy season ; but here the additional risk is run of the waters rising earlier than usual, in which case the crop is over whelmed and entirely lost. It is remarkable that the pro duce of indigo in Bengal has not increased in any degree for the last 30 years. The luxuriance of vegetation in Bengal is, perhaps, un- VOL. L equalled in any other part of the world. The cultivation of the land requires little effort, and large crops are obtained without the application of any other manure than the sediment or mud deposited by the inundations. It is doubtful, how ever, how far this facility is good, since it seems to have had the effect of preventing all attempts at improvement, either in the science of agriculture itself, or in the implements used in its practice. The Indian plough is of wretched construction, having neither coulter nor mould-board, and, in some districts, it wants even the share ; while the animals by which it is dragged, two oxen or cows, are miserable, half starved crea tures. The reaping-hook (kastya) is a most inefficient imple ment, the curved or cutting part of the blade is 6 inches long by 1 broad, with teeth like a saw ; the handle is about 4 inches long. The dengki, by which the husks are separated from the grain, is another wretched implement, and so ill adapted to its purposes, that one fifth part of the whole grain is sacri ficed in the operation. Nearly all the other implements in use are of an equally rude and imperfect description. Rotation of crops and the use of fallows are unknown to the farmers of India; the land is generally in an exhausted condition, and the enclosures everywhere bad. Grain is trodden out by oxen, and stacking corn is unusual ; the corn being often left exposed to the weather. Irrigation, however, is well under stood necessity giving rise to invention and is accom plished by the most ingenious and efficient means. Farms are generally small, varying from 1 to 20 ac., and are oppres sively high rented ; the consequence is, that the farmers are, most of them, miserably poor, and are without the means of effecting improvements of any kind. Another obstacle to improvement is the mixture of occupations ; the peasants in differently quitting the plough to use the loom, and the loom to resume the plough. Manufactures. The principal manufactures are, cotton piece goods of various descriptions, calicoes, blanketing, diaper, chintzes, woven silks, and taffetas ; pack-thread, and sailcloth. Muslins of the most beautiful and delicate texture were for merly made at Dacca, a city in this province, but the manufac ture is now extinct. Some of these fabrics, says Ta vernier, were so fine that they could hardly be felt in the hand, and the thread, when spun, was scarce discernible. In Ward s History, <&c., of the Hindoos, this character of the muslin of Dacca is confirmed; though, perhaps, in both cases, it is a little exaggerated. When this muslin is laid on the grass," says the latter, and the dew has fallen upon it, it is no longer discernible. In the hyperbolical, but poetical, language of the East, these delicate airy fabrics were designated as webs of woven wind. The extraordinary fineness and beauty of India muslins manufactured under the disadvantages of rude machinery, and ill-prepared material, is attributed to the ex quisitely fine sense of touch possessed by the Hindoos, an effeminate people, to their patience and gentleness, and to the hereditary continuance of a particular species of manufacture in families, through many generations. The delicate forma tion and flexibility of their fingers is equally remarkable, and presents a striking contrast to the rigid clumsy fingers of the European. The extinction of the muslin manufactures of India has been owing, in a great measure, to the successful competition of this country, and to the circumstance of British fabrics being subject to no duty in Bengal, while high duties were levied on the fabrics of Bengal in Britain. In 1831, a great number of natives of the highest respectability individu ally petitioned the Lords of the Privy Council, to allow the cotton and silk fabrics of Bengal to be used in Great Britain free of duty, or at the same rate which may be charged on British fabric consumed in Bengal. The petition was not complied with. Large quantities of a coarse cloth called tat or choti, manufactured from pat, a plant formerly spoken of, are made in various districts of Bengal ; and many of the poorer people are clothed with a coarse linen (megili) prepared from the same material. Commerce. The trade of Bengal with Britain is at once extensive and various. The chief imports are metals, foreign wines and spirits, beer, woollen and cotton cloths, cotton yarn, glass, and hardware ; the exports, silk and silk manu factures, cotton, indigo, sugar, saltpetre, and lac dye. Ben gal has also a considerable trade with France, Portugal, the U. States, China, Burmah, Java, and several of the larger islands of the Asiatic Archipelago. The following Table ex- BENGAL 378 BENGAZI hibits the proportion of the commerce of Bengal enjoyed by each country in the year 1849-50 : Imports. Exports. United Kingdom France Hamlmnr Oilier countries of Europe Coromandel coast Malabar coast China Singapore Other countries of Asia Africa (Mauritius, liourhon, Cape) North America South America 1,057,275 4,7C>8,074 123,380 609,i 2 1 13,227 12.763 163,824 2(18,924 938,072 339,966 67,877 112,887 13.551 9,272 191,881 3 n 15,440 3,219,696 io :, 469,974 316,110 2J132 6,497,114 10,932,712 The aggregate exports, as shown above, exceed those of the preceding year by 1,078,203; and the imports by 791,138. For a more detailed account of the foreign trade and com merce of the presidency and province of Bengal, see CALCUTTA, the only port of importance. People, Education, Social and Domestic Condition, &c. The natives of Bengal are generally handsome, particularly when young, though slightly formed, and small of stature ; their colour varies from light olive to dark brown ; faces oval, hair and eyes universally black. Their dispositions are lively, and their manners mild and polite ; but their bad qualities are numerous, and their moral character, generally, exceedingly low. They are overbearing to inferiors ; strangers to truth, honesty, and good faith ; and incorrigible cheats and pilferers. The lower classes live in a state of continual warfare with each other ; and there are few families without internal divi sions, accompanied by the most bitter and lasting enmities. They want courage to meet their enemies in open combat, and to commit thefts attended by danger; but have little hesi tation in murdering and robbing when darkness or other circumstances promise a safe perpetration of these crimes. It is a necessary consequence of the extreme poverty of the bulk of the population of India, that education should be there at a very low ebb. The first rudiments of education are usually given in small schools called patlisals, in which the fees are extremely low, but still far beyond the reach of the majority of the people ; they are, therefore, few in number ; and did not parents, in many instances, instruct their own children, there would not be many who could either read or write. Children usually go to school at five years of age, and are instructed in reading and writing at the same time, tracing letters on the floor with a pencil of steatite ; at a more ad vanced stage, they write on the palmyra leaf, with a pen (made of reed or bamboo) and ink ; afterwards, they begin to write on paper, and learn to keep accounts. Nothing is taught in these schools but reading and writing, in the common lan guage of the province, together with arithmetic. The Prak- rito, or polite language of Bengal, is confined to persons of liberal education, amongst whom it is the usual means of cor respondence. In the common language of the country, there is neither grammar nor dictionary, nor a single book from which anything can be learned ; neither are there many books of value in the Prakrito, the usual printed compositions in that language being songs, hymns, and poems. The English language is now, however, making rapid strides in every part of India. The private houses of Bengal are huts, with pent roofs, constructed of two sloping sides, which meet in a ridge. One hut of this kind serves the poor man for himself, family, and cattle ; wealthy men increase the number of houses, without altering the plan, and without having any communication be tween the different apartments. The walls are generally made of mud, and the floor is raised a foot or two above the level of the plain, to prevent its being flooded in the rainy season, which however is not always accomplished ; in which case the family have to wade through mud to reach the door. The frames of the houses consist of bamboos tied together ; wooden posts and beams being used in the construction of the houses of the wealthy only. The huts, collectively sufficient for the accommodation of a family, are usually surrounded by a common fence. Farmers have, in general, larger and better houses than people living in towns. A rich farmer will some times have as many as 12 or 14 huts within his enclosure. The expense of maintaining the table of a Hindoo family of high rank and station, with eight domestics, exclusive of the master and mistress, has been estimated, by Mr. Masters, at about 167 per annum. The maintenance of a common labourer, with a wife and two children, is estimated at between 8 and 9 per annum; his whole expenses at about 12. Intermediate classes, with one or two more in family, vary, according to position, from 87 to 33 and 15 per annum, for food alone ; which consists chiefly of rice, wheaten flour, fish, vegetables, and butter, with various condiments and seasonings. In the case of the labourer, there is neither flour, fish, vegetables, nor butter, the chief food of that class being a coarse description of rice. Hjstori/. The English first established themselves in Ben gal in 1656, when, through the influence of an English medical man named Boughton, the East India Company obtained the sanction of the Emperor of Delhi to locate themselves on the right bank of the river Hoogly. Thirty years afterwards, the Company s factors, having had a rupture with the Moslem commander at the place where they were located, removed to Calcutta, then the village of Chuttanutty, where they con tinued to carry on their trade. In 1700, the Viceroy of Ben gal, being in want of money to dispute the succession to the Mogul throne, obtained a large sum from the Company for the township on which their factory stood at Calcutta, and some adjacent lands. Seven years afterwards, namely, in 1707, Calcutta was erected into a presidency, and the founda tion of British power in India laid ; presenting a striking proof of the superior energy of the British character, there having been settlements in India by the Portuguese, Dutch, French, and Danes, previous to, and contemporary with, the location of the English in that quarter of the world, but the mighty achievement of attaining the supremacy in that vast empire, could, it appears, be accomplished only by the British. For nearly half a century, the Company pursued a peaceful and profitable commerce ; but, at the expiry of that period, 1756, Calcutta was attacked and taken by the Soubahdar of Bengal, who threw the Englishmen he found there, 147 in number, into a dungeon, the well-known black hole of Calcutta, where 123 of them perished in 11 hours. In the ensuing year, Calcutta was retaken by Lord Clive ; an event which was followed by a series of victories on the part of the British, that terminated in the entire conquest of India. (See INDIA.) Bengal is distributed into three divisions Calcutta, Moor- shedabad, and Dacca which have 17 subordinate districts or collectorates. The principal cities, besides the three just named, are Burdwan, Hoogly, Chandernagore, Purneah, Kaje- mahal, and Dinajepore. Pop. estimated at about 25,000,000. (Martin s Eastern India; Hamilton s East India Gaz. ; Journal of the Statistical Society of London The Picture of India; Porter s Progress of the, Nation; M Culloch s Account of the British, Empire ; The Anglo-Indian and Colonial Al manac ; Martin s British Colonial Library ; Baine s History of the Cotton Manufacture ; Parliamentary Reports.} BENGAL (BAY OF), a gulf of the Indian Ocean, and, with exception of the Arabian Sea, the largest indentation on the S. coast of Asia. It lies between the peninsular portion of Hindoostan, on the W., and the coasts of Lower Siam, Tan- asserim, Tavoy, Burmah, and Aracan, on the E. ; or between lat. 7 and 23 N., and Ion. 78 and 99 E. It is about 1400 m. in width at the broadest part, or between Cape Comorin, the extreme S. point of Hindoostan, and the corresponding lati tude on the coast of Lower Siam. From this point it dimin ishes little in breadth till lat. 15 N. is passed, when it gradually contracts to a breadth not exceeding 250 m., and latterly terminates in a comparatively narrow inlet, of not more than 50 m. in width, crowded with islands, and in which are the embouchures of the Brahmapootra, and the largest and most E. branch of the Ganges. BENGAZI, or BENGAZY, a maritime tn. regency of Tripoli, dist. Barca, E. coast of the Gulf of Sidra ; lat. (castle) 32 6 48" N. ; Ion. 20 2 42" E. (R.) ; situated on the verge of a large and fertile plain, extending to the foot of the Cyrenaic chain of mountains. It is wretchedly built, and most of the houses are constructed of mud, or of rough stones cemented with that material instead of mortar. Those who can afford it, spread a preparation of lime over the mud, which renders it imper vious to the weather. The houses consist generally of one floor, having a quadrangular courtyard within, into which the BENGEO 379 BENIGANIM doors of the various apartments open. The roofs are flat, laid over with rafters, and thereafter covered with all sorts of rub bish, which is kept down by a thick coating of mud. The houses of the poorer classes are composed of such frail mate rials, and so unskilfully constructed, that numbers of them fall on their inmates, often seriously injuring them, during the rainy season of each year a calamity which combined indo lence and poverty prevent them providing against, notwith standing their repeated experiences. The town is, besides, extremely filthy throughout ; and in the market-place is a pool of stagnant and putrid water, into which all the blood and offals of the animals killed, and all the rubbish of the town, excepting what is deposited on the streets, is thrown. The harbour, which was, about 50 years since, of sufficient depth to admit vessels of from 200 to 300 tons burden, is fast filling up with sand, and will not now float vessels drawing more than 7 or 8 ft. water. It is defended at the entrance by a castle, so slightly constructed as to be incapable of a pro tracted resistance. The trade of the town, which is carried on principally by Jews, is still pretty considerable. The exports consist chiefly of cattle, sheep, corn, wool, and salted butter. Provisions, fruits, vegetables, and fresh water abound ; and ships touching at the port may have ample supplies of them all. Bengazi occupies the site of the Berenice of the Ptolemies, of which few vestiges are to be seen above ground ; but numerous and interesting remains are found at almost every point within the distance of half a mile, on digging a little way beneath the surface of the earth. In the neighbourhood are to be seen some singular chasms, of large area, filled with luxuriant vege tation, and surrounded by perpendicular walls of rock, pre senting a most picturesque appearance, and supposed to have been the sites of the gardens of the Hesperides. Bengazi is in the dominions of the Pasha of Tripoli, under whom it is governed by a Bey, who resides in the castle ; where, also, his officers and troops are quartered. Pop. estimated at 5000. BENGEO, par. Eng. Hertford; 3020 ac. Pop. 1141. BENGE WORTH (Si. PETEK), par. Eng. Worcester. Pop. 1082. BENGORE HEAD, a promontory, N. coast, Ireland, co. Antrim ; lat. 55 15 N. ; Ion. 6 29 W. It is formed of a number of capes, the most prominent of which rises 320 ft. above the level of the sea. BENGUELA, a little-known dist., W. coast, Africa, lying between lat. 11 and 17 S., and bounded, N. by Angola, E. by the Cunene river, S. by Nourse s river, and \V. by the Atlantic Ocean. The interior of the country is mountainous, the direction of the elevated lands being from N.E. to S.W. It is well watered, having numerous springs and lakes, many of the latter brackish, and some salt ; and being thickly inter sected by rivers and streams. Its vegetation is luxuriant, including every description of produce peculiar to tropical countries. The slopes of the mountains are covered with dense forests of cedars, palms, date-trees, tamarinds, &c. The vine, the banana, ananas, and other descriptions of tropical fruit, also abound. The soil is well adapted for the produc tion of gram ; but, from indolence and want of skill on the part of the natives, little is grown. The larger and fiercer animals of the African wilds are numerous in this district ; lions, tigers, rhinoceroses, elephants, hippopotami, and alli gators (the latter of a very formidable kind) frequently in vading, in large bodies, the neighbouring towns and villages, when the rivers they inhabit run low. Zebras, elks, deer, and antelopes are likewise abundant. Horses are scarce, but cattle, sheep, and goats plentiful. The ostrich and the pea cock are found here ; the latter wild in the woods. Reptiles of all sorts, harmless and dangerous, are met with everywhere. The mineral wealth of the district consists of copper, sulphur, petroleum, and crystals. Gold and silver have also been found, but it is not known whether they abound. BENGUELA (Slo FELIPE DE), a tn., W. coast, Africa, Portuguese cap. of the above dist. It is situated on an open bay, formed to the S.W. by projecting cliffs, below Mount Sombreiro or St. Philip s Cap; lat. (flag-staff) 12 32 15" S.; Ion. 13 30 45" E. The buildings are of half-baked bricks, cemented with mud, and covered with a thick plaster of shell lime. The town is surrounded by a marsh, full of stagnant pools, from which the most deadly exhalations arise, rendering the place so unhealthy that no European can live in it. A large mud fort, going to decay, mounted with a few rusty guns, forms the chief defence of the town. Here an exten sive trade in slaves was at one time carried on, 20,000 being annually exported from it ; and there is no good reason for believing that there are fewer now. The town was, some time ago, invaded by a herd of elephants in quest of water, and almost wholly destroyed by them. The pop. consists of free blacks and slaves, and amounts to about 3000. BENHALL, par. Eng. Suffolk; 2010 ac. Pop. 749. BENHOLME, par. Scot. Kincardine, about 3 m. square, bounded on the S.E. by the German Ocean. Pop. 1648. BENI, a river, Bolivia, formed by several head-streams having their sources in the high mountain-ranges N.W. of Cochabamba, about lat. 18 S., and which unite about lat. 16 42 S. ; Ion. 68 10 W. From this point, the Beni holds a generally N. course for about 300 m., when it bends N.E., arid subsequently joins the Mamore or Marmore in lat. 10 35 S., the united streams receiving the name of the Madeira, which falls into the Amazon near Serpa, in lat. 3 20 S. It is but proper to mention that there are considerable differences of opinion regarding some parts of the course of this stream, the whole not having been yet explored. Extensive levels, of great fertility, stretch along its banks, which are also adorned with the most magnificent trees, many of them fruit- bearing; medicinal herbs and aromatic gums also abound. Fish are numerous ; and gold is found on its shores. The banks are inhabited by various tribes of Indians, some of whom are in a barbarous state. BENI, a dep. Bolivia, formed, in 1843, by uniting provs. Caupolican or Apolabamba, previously included in dep. La 1 az, to those of Moxos and Yuracares, which made part of dep. La Cruz. The new department, therefore, embraces the terri tory on both banks of the river Beni. It extends N., according to the Bolivian maps, to lat. 10 S. ; and includes, on the W., the highest points of the Bolivian Andes, Sorata, and Illimani ; on the E., a vast tract of level plain, watered by numerous great rivers, clothed with superb forests, and extensively in undated during the wet season. The pop. of this vast terri tory probably does not exceed 35,000, nearly all indigenous. BENICARLO, a tn. and port, Spain, Valencia, prov. of, and 44 m. N.E. Castellon de la Plana, 1 m. from the Medi terranean. It is entered by four gates ; and has well-made and paved streets, four squares, a parish church, townhouse, custom-house, hospital, adult and three other schools, a ceme tery, and several convents. Manufactures : hempen fabrics, ropes, and sailcloth. There are here two brandy distilleries, tanneries, numerous wine-presses, and oil-mills. Fishing, to a limited extent, is carried on. Exports: red wines, brandy, and oil, which are sent to Cadiz, Malaga, and other points of the peninsula. Imports :- wheat, ling, sardines, sugar, iron, and timber. Benicarlo is chiefly noted for the red wines of the surrounding country, of which it exports upwards of 220,000 casks annually. Most of these wines are sent to Bordeaux, for the purpose of mixing with their clarets. A portion, and no inconsiderable one, is also sent to this country to be manufactured into port. During the vintage, says Mr. Ford in his Handbook, the mud of these towns is abso lutely red with grape-husks, and the legs of the population dyed from treading the vats. Nothing, he adds, can be more dirty, classical, and unscientific than the modus operandi. The press is rude ; the filth and negligence boundless. Pop. G060. BENICIA, a recently-commenced seaport tn., U. States, California, about 30 m. N.N.E. San Francisco. It is admir ably situated on a spit of land in the N. part of the Bay of San Francisco, and commands the navigation both of the Sacramento and San Joaquim rivers. The largest vessels lie close in shore. The climate is fine ; the place is rapidly increasing. Shipbuilding is carried on. BENIDORM, a tn. and port, Spain, Valencia, prov. of, and 27 m. N.E. Alicante, on a hill at the head of a bay of same name. It has a parish church, townhall, prison, four public schools, custom-house, and a ruinous castle. The inhab itants are chiefly employed in fishing, and as muleteers. As a port, its commerce is unimportant ; consisting principally in importing grain from Andalusia, and exporting salt fish, fruits, vegetables, c. Pop. 4502. BENIGANIM, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 37 m. S. Va lencia. It has spacious, clean, and well-paved streets, an extensive square, two parish churches, two endowed schools, a substantial townhall, hospital, prison, two public fountains, BENI-ISGUEN BENNINGTOX a palace of the Marquis of Bclgida, and several convents. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in agriculture, but also manu facture linen fabrics, soap, and a kind of sweetmeat called nrropa de Beniganim. There are here also four brandy dis tilleries, and some wine-presses. Pop. 2318. BENI-ISGUEN, a tn. Algeria, in the Sahara Desert, on the Wady Mzab ; lat. 33 30 N. ; Ion. 2 E. It is described as approaching hi size to the town of Algiers, as being strongly built, and surrounded by a rampart, on which are five towers. It has three gates, and some trade in grain. The inhabitants are of the Beni-Mzab tribe. (Daumas, Le Sahara Algerien.} BENI SABIH, a tn. Marocco, cap. prov. Darah or Draha, r. bank of streamlet Draha, 224 m. S. by E. the city of Ma rocco ; lat. 28 58 N. ; Ion. 6 45 W. It is a small but rather densely-populated town, and has some trade in goat -skins. BENIN, a Negro country or kingdom, W. Africa, Upper Guinea, on the Bight of Benin, Gulf of Guinea, extending along the coast on both sides of the Benin Eiver, but how far, and to what distance inland, is not known ; indeed, respecting the whole country, our information is exceedingly defective. It is, however, now understood to be neither so extensive, nor important, as at one time it was deemed. The capital is Benin. The coast is thickly indented with estuaries, some of them of considerable breadth, and studded with islands. The country is flat for some distance inland, when it begins gradu ally to rise, till it attains a height of between 2000 and 3000 ft. It is very well wooded, and being likewise well watered, it is rich in all the vegetable productions of the tropics. Cotton is indigenous, and its wool is woven into cloth by the women. Sugar-cane of good quality is grown ; the soil is laid out in square plots, producing yams, plantains, Canada and Indian corn. The religion is Fetichism. Human sacrifices are num erous, and cruelty, in its most atrocious forms, is character istic of the people and the Government. An extensive traffic in slaves is carried on in this country. Besides this nefarious traffic, there is a considerable trade in salt, palm-oil, and blue coral. BENIN, a large tn., W. Africa, cap. of above kingdom ; lat. 6 12 N. ; Ion. 5 45 E. (c.), r. bank, river of same name, formerly called by the Portuguese Rio Formosa, but now ascertained to be one of the mouths of the Niger. As in almost all African towns, the houses are set down without the slightest regard to order, and often at wide distances from each other. They are built of clay, neatly thatched with reeds, straw, or leaves, and kept exceedingly clean. The palace of the King stands outside of the city, and is defended by walls. Benin was at one time the great emporium of the district for slaves, but this traffic is now carried on nearer the coast, as large vessels could not come within a shorter distance of the town than Gatto or Agattou, a port about 40 m. down the river. It is still, however, the scene of a busy market for cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, poultry, yams, cottons, ivory, and European wares; with fruits of various kinds. The country around is fertile, but low and swampy, and very un healthy for Europeans. Belzoni, the celebrated traveller, died here in 1823. Pop. estimated at 15,000. BENIN (BIGHT OF), a large indentation of the Gulf of Guinea, extending along the entire coast of Benin and Da homey. The coast is low and swampy, and rendered exceed ingly dangerous by the heavy surf which is continually rolling on the beach. The current on the shore sets always E. at a rate varying from half a mile to one and a half per hour. The prevailing winds are W. In the months of February and March the coast is subject to violent tornadoes from the N.E., accompanied by heavy, cold rains. There are a number of considerable towns along the coast, carrying on a pretty extensive trade in palm-oil and ivory, and at all of which, the necessaries of life, with fruits and vegetables, may be had cheap, and in abundance. BENIN (RIVER OF), [called by the Portuguese Rio For mosa, and still recognized by that name], in W. Africa, king dom of Benin, and believed to be one of the mouths of the Niger. It falls into the Gulf of Guinea about 180 m. below Benin, and about 115 m. N.N.W. Cape Formosa ; lat. (entrance, N.W. point) 5 46 N. ; Ion. 5 4 E. (R.) It is a fine bold river. It divides into two branches, both of which were ascended in 1 840, in a steamer, by Capt. Becroft, the one branch for a distance of 50, and the other for a distance of 70 m. Further progress was stopped, by the impenetrable nature of the aquatic vegetation. The river is 2 m. wide at its mouth, across which is a bar of mud, clay and sand, extending from 4 to 5 m. seaward, and on which there are not more than 12 ft. water at spring tides. A few miles up, the river contracts to the width of half a mile. The depth of water does not in any part exceed 24 ft. The climate here is fatal to Europeans ; the disease, a malignant remittent fever, which frequently carries off great numbers of the crews of vessels frequenting the river. The chief articles of export are palm oil, ivory, and pod or cayenne pepper, for which cloth, par ticularly scarlet, beads, guns, gunpowder, hardware, and spirits, are taken in exchange. The tide rises in the river 5 or 6 ft. BENIOLEED, a tn. and valley, N.W. Africa, regency of Tripoli, about 100 rn. S.S.E. from the seaport town of that name. The valley, which is very fertile, is described by Major Denham as being bounded on all sides by whitish brown hills, capped in many places with greenstone, and amygdaloid, or vesicular lava, rugged villages, and ruinous castles, on every point, some overtopping the columnar green stone, and scarcely distinguishable from it. The hills do not exceed 400 ft. in height, and are composed mostly of limestone. BENISA, a tn. Spain, Valencia, prov. of, and 38 m. N.E. Alicante, on a lull overlooking the Mediterranean. It has badly-constructed and mean-looking streets, a parish church, two schools, a townhnll, public prison, hospital, storehouse, and a Franciscan convent, the church of which is used as a chapel of ease. The inhabitants are engaged in tillage, and in preparing Muscatel raisins, which are exported. A monthly market is held for the sale of the agricultural produce, and for cattle. Pop. 3678. (Madoz.) BENISALEM, a tn. Spain, isl. Majorca, prov. Baleares, 10 m. S.W. Inca, having spacious streets, two squares, a parish church, two schools, a townhall, and a cemetery. Trade in coal, and marble, wrought in the neighbourhood, and in lime, grain, oil, and exquisite fruits. Pop. 3027. BENISUEFF, or BENISOO^F, a tn. Egypt, cap. prov. or j beylik of same name, 1. bank, Nile, 83 m. S. Cairo. It is the residence of the bey or governor, who has a palace in the town, and contains a maufactory for silk and cotton stuffs, established by Mehemet AH in 1826, and a large barracks for cavalry. Benisueff was once famous for its linen manu factures, and for its trade in flax, but both are now extinct. An indifferently supplied market is held here once a week. The bank of the river at BenisooeT, says Sir Gardner Wil kinson, presents the ordinary scenes common to all the large towns on the Nile ; the most striking of which are, numerous boats tied to the shore, buffaloes standing or lying in the water, women at their usual morning and evening occupation of filling water-jars, and washing clothes, dogs lying in holes they have scratched in the cool earth, and beggars importun ing each newly-arrived European stranger, with the odious word bakshish [a present]. Pop. 5000. BENNECKENSTEIN, a tn. Prussia, prov. Saxony, on the Rapbode, at the foot of the Ilarz, 13 m. N.N.W. Nord- hausen ; lat. 51 40 N. ; Ion. 10 40 E. It has an iron foundry, a nail-work, a brewery, and manufactures a variety of articles from wood. Pop. 3500. BENNEKOM, a vil. Holland, prov. Gelderlaml, 10 m. W. by N. Anihem. with a church, school, and 900 inhabitants. BENNESCH, or BENNISCH, a tn. Austrian Silesia, on the borders of Moravia, 9 m. E. Troppau. The inhabitants, who 1 are almost all Germans, live chiefly by weaving linen, and spinning yarn. A valuable silver mine, which employed a great number of furnaces, once existed in the neighbourhood. It had long been closed, but was again opened in 1817. Nothing, however, is obtained from it except iron ochre, and clay ironstone. Pop. 2750. BENN1NGTON, three pars. Eng.: 1, par. Hertford; 2950 ac. Pop. 605. 2, par. Lincoln ; 3090 ac. Pop. 539. 3, Beunmyion (Long), par. Lincoln; 4420 ac. Pop. 1007. BENNINGTON, a post vil., U. States, Vermont, on elevated ground, 37 m. N.E. Albany; lat. 42 42 N. ; Ion. 73 W. It has a court-house, Congregational church, two academics, and 12 schools. In 1777, an engagement took place on the W. border of the village, between the British and Americans, in which the former sustained a defeat. Pop. ! (1840), 3429. BENNIWORTH BERAR BENNIWORTH, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 2840 ac. P. 488- BENOIT (ST.), a tn., E. coast, isle of Bourbon, 27 m. S.E. St. Denis, for which place the produce of the district is shipped in small vessels. Pop. about 9000. BENOWEN, par. Irel. Westmeath; 6S87 ac. Pop. 1548. BENOWM, or BENOWN, a tn., N. Africa, cap. of king dom Ludamar, S. border of the Great Desert; lat. 15 8 N.; Ion. 9 40 W. BENSHEIM, a tn. grand duchy of Hesse-Darmstadt, prov. Starkenburg, on the highroad and the railway between Frankfort and Heidelberg, 17 m. S. Darmstadt; lat. 49 40 N. ; Ion. 8 35 E. It is surrounded with old walls ; and con tains a gymnasium, a normal school, and three churches. The inhabitants live by trade and agriculture, including that of the vine. Pop., chiefly R. Catholic, 4000. The DISTRICT of the same name, though mountainous, is fertile ; produces all the ordinary crops ; rears a great number of excellent cattle ; and has a pop. of 23,200. BENSINGTON, par. Eng. Oxford; 2800 ac. Pop. 1254. BENTALA, a tn. Senegambia, about 210 m. N.N.E. Sierra Leone ; lat. 1 1 25 N. ; Ion. 12 W. ; 1. bank of a tri butary of the Rio Grande. BENTHALL, par. Eng. Salop ; 770 ac. Pop. 587. BENTHAM, par. Eng. York, W. Riding; 23,100 ac. Pop. 3535. BENTHEIM, a prov. or earldom, Hanover, lying be tween the Prussian prov. of Westphalia, and the Dutch prov. of Overijssel ; area, about 399 sq. m., mostly level, and toler ably productive. Amongst its mineral products are potters clay, coals, millstones, and freestone. Its only manufactures are flax yarn spinning and weaving. The climate is, on the whole, temperate and healthy. Both the language and manners of the inhabitants are Dutch. The TOWN of Bentheim, in lat. 52 18 N. ; Ion. 7 8 E., is built on an acclivity, on the W. side of the Wechte. The streets are steep and crooked ; but the palace, which crowns the summit of the acclivity, and is of a castellated form, surrounded with walls, commands a beautiful prospect. There is a sulphur spring in the neigh bourhood, which is much resorted to. Pop. of tn. 1972 ; of prov. 28,754. BENTINCK ISLAND, an isl. in Australia, Gulf of Car pentaria; lat. (S. point) 17 8 S. ; Ion. 139 30 E. It is about 10 m. long, and as many broad, of moderate elevation, and thickly covered with wood. Its S. side is much indented, and the projections are lined with mangroves. BENTLEY, several pars. Eng. : 1, par. Hants; 2450 ac. Pop. 766. 2, par. Suffolk ; 2350 ac. Pop. 419. 3, Bentley (Great], par. Essex ; 2850 ac. Pop. 1005. 4, Bentley (Little), par. Essex; 2750 ac. Pop. 462. 5, Bentley (Fenny], par. Derby; 670 ac. Pop. 343. BENTON (LONG), par. Eng. Northumberland; 8760 ac. Pop. 8711. BENTOTTE, a beautiful vil. or small tn. Ceylon, 1. bank, river of same name, 12 m. S. Cultura. It has distilleries of arrack, and manufactures considerable quantities of cordage, both of which are exported to the coast of Coroinandel. There is a pretty large church in the village, and a house for the reception of travellers. Fish is abundant ; and the oysters taken in the vicinity are celebrated for their flavour. The pop. is numerous. (Ceylon Gas.) BENWEE HEAD, Ireland, co. Mayo, rises perpendicu larly from the sea to a height of 900 ft. ; lat. 54 21 N. ; Ion. 9 45 W. BENTWORTH, par. Eng. Hants ; 3770 ac. Pop. 609. BENZERTA. See BIZERTA. BEOLEY [anc. Beaulieu], par. Eng. Worcester ; 4700 ac. Pop. 657. BEPTON, par. Eng. Sussex; 1260 ac. Pop. 207. BEQUIA ISLAND, one of the Grenadines, a chain of small islands, belonging to the British, between St. Vincent and Grenada, W. Indies, 7 m. S. from the former. It is about 7 m. in length, and from 1 J to 2 m. in breadth. On the W. side is a spacious bay, called Admiralty Bay ; lat. (N. point) 13 5 N. ; Ion. 61 14 W. (K.) It has a slightly hilly surface. Produces cotton and sugar. BERAR, a large prov. Hindostan, in the Deccan, incor porated into the Britisli dominions in the year 1854; be tween lat. 17 48 and 22 43 N., and Ion. 75 20 and 82 48 E. ; bounded, N. by Candeish and Malwa, E. by prov. Gund- wana, S. by Aurungabad and Beeder, and W. by the dominions of the Nizam ; greatest length, N. to S., 330 m. ; breadth, 300 m. ; area, 56,723 sq. m. It is centrally situated, being almost equidistant from the Bay of Bengal and the W. coast of India ; and consists chiefly of an elevated valley, reached by a chain of ghauts or mountain passes, sometimes sloping gradually, sometimes terminating abruptly towards the valley, which, owing to the undulations of the ground, and numerous intervening small peaks, is seldom seen till it is nearly ap proached. The chief rivers are the Wurda, the Khahan, Wynegunga, and other affluents of the Godavery, and the Tuptee or Tapty, and Mahanuddy. The soil is fertile, yield ing abundant crops of dry grains ; also pease, vetches, flax, sugar, betel, and tobacco. The wheat is reckoned the best in India, and is harvested three months after it is sown, leaving time for a crop of Indian corn. Cotton is grown to some ex tent, and considerable numbers of sheep are reared. Since the country has been under the supervision of the British, a large proportion of the land has been brought into cultivation, and greater attention paid to the means of irrigation generally. The agricultural implements in use are still of a very inferior de scription, particularly the plough, which is extremely rude and inefficient. The indigo-plant is not cultivated, though grow ing wild ; neither is opium much attended to. A large portion of the country is in the hands of zemindars, who pay small quit-rents to Government, but are otherwise independent. In the more civilized parts of Berar, the revenue is collected by the potail or head village farmer, who is responsible to Government for the punctual payment of the ryot s rents ; he himself receiving some 17 per cent, by way of remuneration. The office of potail is usually considered hereditary, but the Government claims the power of dismissal. The judicial authorities rank, under the Rajah, in the following order: the soubahdar of the district, the native pergunnah collector, and the potail. The punchayet, a body of five arbitrators, of whom two are chosen by each party in the cause, and the fifth by the local authority, decides most petty civil causes, finally, without appeal. Cases of more importance are decided by the Rajah in person, or by the soubahdar, who is usually a military officer ; when the loser must pay down one -fourth of the disputed claim, as a fine, to the Rajah, and the gainer another fourth, as recompence for the trouble of decision. Education in Berar is chiefly confined to the children of Brahmins and those of the mercantile classes, and is of a de scription little calculated to advance their moral or intellec tual faculties. All the other classes are exceedingly illiterate, it being rare to find a cultivator of the soil who can write his own name. The only order who ever study books are Brah mins, and these books are exclusively books of theology. The trade of Berar is chiefly limited to internal traffic, and that is insignificant, from the want of good roads and other means of communication ; still a considerable quantity of cotton, and numerous sheep, are sent to Kamgaum, in the N.W. part of the province, to be forwarded thence usually by the Chandore pass to Bombay. The road, however, is so wretched, that large quantities of the cotton are lost or de stroyed on the way, and not one-third of the sheep reach Bombay alive, and even those that do survive the journey are greatly reduced in flesh. Towards the end of the 17th century, Berar, which had been formerly ruled by independent sovereigns, was added to the Mogul empire. On the decline of that empire it was overrun by rapacious hordes of Mahrattas, and for some time it was nearly equally divided between the Peshwa and the Rajah of Nagpoor. The latter, however, in 1803, having taken part with Dowlat Row Siudia against the British, he was, in the December of the same year, compelled to cede to the latter the province of Cuttack, including the port of Balasore, as well as the provinces of Sumbulpore and Patna (afterwards restored to him), also some districts on the Hyder abad frontier, which were made over to the Nizam. In 1817, the new Rajah, Appah Sahib, having joined the Peshwa against the British, the latter took upon themselves the government of his territory, in the name of Bajee Rao Boosh- lah, then a minor. In 1826, the young Rajah attained his majority, and was put in possession of part of his territory, the remainder of which was given up to him in 1829. lie died without issue, December 11, 1853, and in course of the following year his territories were incorporated with the pos- EERAT 382 BERBICE sessions of the East India Company. (Mill s History of British India; Parliamentary Papers, &c.) BE RAT, or ARNAUT BERAT [anc. Arnaout Bcligrad], a tn. Turkey in Europe, near the centre of Albania, sanjak of, and 28 m. N.E. Aulona, romantically situated on both sides of the Tuberathi or Ergent, here crossed by a handsome bridge of eight arches. It contains an acropolis or citadel, repaired and strengthened by Ali Pasha, situated upon a high hill, with in which are the palace of the Vizier, several Greek churches, and about 250 houses. The lower town, without the walls of the acropolis, has 13 mosques and a large and handsome bazaar, well supplied with articles from Constantinople and Macedonia, and with foreign goods imported through the port of Aulona. It lies in, and commands a narrow pass, is con sidered an important post, and its possession has been fre quently disputed by contending Pashas. It is the residence of a bishop. The Greek women here wear a peculiar kind of cap or bonnet, nearly two feet high, and shaped like a bishop s mitre, generally made of blue cloth, well stuffed, and fastened under the chin with ribbons. The vicinity is fertile in grain, wine, and oil. Pop. about 8000 or 9000. BERAUN, a small walled tn. Bohemia, cap. prov. of same name, 17 m. W.S.W. Prague, on the Beraun, near its junction with the Litawka. It has a gymnasium, and a monastery of Piarists. Its staple manufacture is earthenware, of excellent quality. In the vicinity are marble quarries and coal mines. A few miles off, on a rock, in the middle of a valley, stands the castle of Karlstein, the most remarkable feudal fortress in Bo hemia. It suffered greatly during the Thirty Years War, but is still tolerably entire. It has a donjon tower 1 2 1 ft. high, with walls 13 feet thick. On the third story is an interesting old chapel ; and close to it, the magnificent oratory of St. Catherine, built by Charles IV. of Austria, by whom the castle itself was erected, in 1348, for the preservation of the Bohemian regalia. Within the castle is a well 232 ft. deep. At Beraun, in 1744, the Austrians gained a signal victory over the Prussians. Pop. 2200. The PROVINCE of Beraun, area 720 geo. sq. m., consists of mountains, intersected at intervals by fertile val leys, and is watered by the Moldau, Sasawa, Beraun, and Litawka. It produces rich crops of grass, and small quantities of wine and hops ; and is famous for its breeds of horses, cattle, and sheep. Its higher slopes are covered with excellent timber ; and among its mountains are mines of silver, lead, and iron, the last maintaining several blast furnaces and other iron works. Coal, also, and quarries of marble, abound. Nor are the manufactures of Beraun unimportant. Its naileries are the most extensive in Bohemia; and it has numerous sugar-works, potash-works, potteries, and paper-mills, together with manufactures of linen and cotton goods. Pop. 185,000. BERBER, a dist. Nubia, on either side the Nile, inter sected by lat. 18 N. It consists of rich alluvial land, suitable for growing grain, cotton, tobacco, and indigo ; but it is to a great extent uncultivated. It is the rendezvous for merchants from Sennaar and Kartoom, on their way to Cairo. A con siderable traffic in slaves is carried on. Pop. 8000 to 9000. BERBERA, a seaport and tn., or rather market-place, E. coast, Africa, Somauli country, on the Gulf of Aden, situated in a beautiful harbour, formed by a curvature of the coast line, and a low sandy cape projecting out nearly at right angles with the general line of the coast to a distance of nearly 1 j m. The extreme of this sandy cape is in lat. 10 26 20" N. ; Ion. 44 6 20" E. The direction of the harbour is E.N.E. to AV.S. W., and at its entrance it is three-quarters of a mile wide, with 13 fathoms mid-channel ; shoaling to 5 fathoms, within 200 yards of the town. Daring the summer, from April till early in October, Berbera is a waste, utterly deserted, without inhabit ant ; but no sooner does the season change, than the inland tribes commence moving towards the coast, to prepare huts for the expected visitors. These huts being merely for tem porary use, mostly consist of leaves of the doum palm, long dried grass, or badly-preserved skins, extended over a few poles, so as to form a roof. A few huts of the more wealthy mer chants make an attempt at greater display ; but being wholly composed of roof, there is little scope for the exercise of architectural genius. Now the traders begin to arrive from all points of the compass ; long strings of camels wind through ^TB^streets, and now the annual fair commences. Here are met slave merchants from Hurrur and Efat, Egyptians, Nubians, Abyssinians, Dankali, and natives of Somauli, Susa, Ivaffa, Kombat, Isah, and Zingero, surrounded with the pro ducts of their respective countries; Banians from India, peering forth cunningly between piles of rich goods ; Persians, th shawls from Kerman, and turquoises from the neighbour hood of the Caspian Sea ; the natives of Mesopotamia, and Oman, and Hadramaut, and Yemen, and the Hejaz, with whatever commodities the soil of Arabia produces. The har bour is filled with vessels from Arabia, Persia, India, &c. The imports are white and blue cotton cloths of Indian manu facture ; also, piece goods, Indian handkerchiefs, brass and copper wire, zinc and beads, dates and grain from the coast of Arabia, and some few prints from Hurrur. The exports are ghee, hides, deers horns, ivory, gums, ostrich feathers, coffee, sheep, and horned cattle. Among the principal subjects of traffic are slaves, particularly young females, most of whom have been kidnapped from their parents. The greater part of the trade of this fair is in the hands of the Banian mer chants, and the amount of business done, mainly by barter, rery great ; the amount of coffee alone sold having been estimated as high as 15,000 tons. The whole of the multi- .dinous assemblage brought together at this remarkable fair, and pervaded by the spirit of gain, is engaged from morning till night in excessive turmoil and wrangling. Honesty, moreover, is a rare visitor among them. Each endeavours to overreach the other, high words arise, quarrels spring up, blows are given and returned, lances flourished and creeses drawn ; and here and there a pool of Mussulman or Pagan blood tells of the way in which bargains are sometimes con cluded by these rough customers. All the dialects and idioms of Babel pass current, each man screaming at the top of his voice, in order to make himself heard amid the indescribable din. By the end of March, the fair is nearly at a close ; craft of all kinds, deeply laden, sail on their homeward voyage, and kafilas depart on their homeward journey; and by the first week of April, Berbera is again a desolate waste, with nothing left to mark the site of a town lately containing 20,000 in habitants, beyond bones of slaughtered camels and sheep, and the framework of a few huts carefully piled on the beach, in readiness for the ensuing year. Beasts of prey now take the opportunity to approach the sea. Lions are commonly seen at the town well during summer, and ostriches walk quietly about on what recently was the scene of business, activity, and turmoil. Berbera has evidently been a market-place for centuries ; but there are no architectural remains in or near it, excepting the remains of an aqueduct, similar to those at Aden, of a stone reservoir, of a small building which has apparently been a mosque, and of a small fort or tower. The water in the town wells is brackish ; and the wealthier merchants procure supplies of good water from Seyareh, a small harbour 18 m. E. (Lieut. Barker and Lieut. Cruttenden, in Jour. Roy. Geo. Soc.; Johnston s Travels in S. Abyssinia; D Hericourt s Voy. dans le Eoyaume, de Choa; Commercial Tariffs; Foreign Quarterly Iteview.) BERBERS, a name given by the Arabs to the original inhabitants of N. Africa; who, however, do not recognize it, calling themselves, in their own languages, Amazirgh or Tam- zirght. The country of the Berbers, in its widest accepta tion, includes the whole of the mountains and deserts of N. Africa, from the Atlantic to the Egyptian oases, and from the Mediterranean to the banks of the Senegal and Niger ; but it is now generally restricted to the Atlas range, from the Atlantic coast of Marocco to the shores of the Gulf of Cabes, in the regency of Tunis. The Berbers in the mountains live under tents, or in huts covered with mats, or in caves ; but in the plains they have houses and villages, built generally of wood and clay, covered with straw, and surrounded by a wall full of loop-holes, to fire through. They subsist chiefly on the produce of their cattle, and all rear bees. They have light complexions, fair hair, and thin and scanty beards; they are remarkably well proportioned, robust, active, lively, rest less, and bold, and implacable in their revenge. BERBICE, a river, British Guiana, supposed to rise about lat. 3 30 N. ; and which was ascended by Schomburgk as far as a great cataract S. of lat. 4 N. It flows nearly due N., and falls into the Atlantic in lat. 6 24 30" N. ; its whole course, so far as known, being upwards of 200 m. The bore which occurs at the mouth of this river is noted for its height and strength, rising, it is said, from 12 to 15 ft. At the dis- BEEBICE 383 BERENT tance of 165 m. from the sea, measured along the windings of the river, the influence of the tide ceases. Beyond this point, formidable and frequent rapids and cataracts render further navigation impracticable. The river is much infested by the species of alligator called Cayman, some of them of immense size. It was in a basin of this river that Schomburgk dis covered the magnificent and gigantic flower known by the name of Victoria regia. The Berbice is about 4J m. wide at its mouth, where there is a bar, having only 7 ft. water at low tide. In the middle of the channel is an island, called Crab Island, from its abounding in crabs, which divides the course of the river into two passages, both of which are navigable; the one on the E. side having from 17 to 20 ft. water, that on the W. from 8 to 13 ft. Vessels of considerable size can ascend the stream for about 50 m. The banks of the river are generally low, and covered with mangroves. BERBICE, co. Guiana. See GUIANA (BRITISH). BERBICE, tn. Guiana. See AMSTERDAM (NEW). BERCETO, a tn. Italy, duchy, Parma, 10 m. E. Borgo Tare, near the borders of Tuscany. It is well built, and clean; has a castle, a church, and school. Pop. 900. BERCHEM, a vil. Holland, prov. N. Brabant, 12 m. E.N.E. Hertogenbosch. It is a large spread-out place, some thing in the form of a semicircle, with a windmill in the centre. It has a R. Catholic church and a school. Three annual fairs are held here. BERCHEM. 1. A vil. and com. Belgium, a short dis tance S. Antwerp, of which it may be considered a suburb. It has a manufactory of starch, a cotton printfield, a brewery, a distillery, and two corn-mills. Here, in 1830, a struggle took place between the Belgian and Dutch troops; here, also, the French besieging army had its head quarters in 1832. Pop. 3045. 2, A vil. and com. Belgium, prov. E. Flanders, r. bank, Scheldt, 6 m. S.W. Audenarde, with linen manu factures, two oil-mills, and a distillery ; it has also extensive establishments for the preparation of chicory. Pop. 2386. BERCK, a coast vil. France, dep. Pas de Calais (Picardy), 9 m. S.W. Montreuil. There is here a lighthouse, with a fixed light, which can be seen from a distance of 8 m. ; lat. 50 24 N. ; Ion. 1 33 42" E. (R.) Pop. 2100. BERCY, a large and handsome vil. France, outside the walls of Paris, beyond the Barriere de Bercy. It owes its origin to the guinguettes and wine-houses, established outside the barriers of the capital for the retail of liquors, that pay a tax on entry. As the greater part of the wine and brandy that come to Paris arrives by the Seine, it necessarily passes in front of Bercy, and the merchants found it advantageous to establish a depot here, which in a short time presented an extensive range of excellent warehouses, and is now one of the best depots of its kind in France. A quay was soon after added, and a suspension bridge to communicate with the 1. bank of the Seine. The most noteworthy building is the chateau of Bercy, in a park on the r. bank of the Seine ; a handsome edifice, ornamented with numerous statues. There are dis tilleries, vinegar-works, a sugar-refinery, and some tanneries at Bercy. The business done in wine, brandy, vinegar, oil, wood for fuel and for building, is very considerable. Pop. 8641 . BERDIANSK, a seaport, S. Russia, gov. Taurida, at the mouth of the Berda, N. shore of the Sea of Azof, 150 m. N.E. Simferopol ; lat. 46 38 12" N. ; Ion. 36 48 1 5" E. (R.) When viewed from the sea, its appearance is by no means prepossess ing ; but it gains much on a nearer inspection, and is found to be a clean, well-built town, consisting of several regular spacious streets, lined with handsome houses, many of them provided with gardens, and indicating, by their exterior, the comfort which prevails within. The roads of Berdiansk are the best in the Sea of Azof. They are sheltered on all sides except the S., and have a sandy bottom, affording good anchorage. Coasting vessels unload on the beach ; but larger vessels lie at some distance. A lighthouse shows the entrance into the roads. Berdiansk is admirably situated for trade, and is rapidly out stripping the neighbouring ports. Its trade is furnished, to a considerable extent, by the products of its own immediate neighbourhood ; but it is also the natural entrepot for the pro ducts of the surrounding governments, which send to it large quantities of grain, oil seeds, and wool for exportation. The interior trade extending by the mouth of the Don, and through it by the Wolga, into the whole of E. Russia, and even Siberia, consists chiefly of wood, coal, fish, and salt. The mines in the neighbourhood furnish the last to the extent of 1600 tons annually, and are apparently inexhaustible ; while the fishing already employs from 400 to 500 persons. Pop. (1849), 6498. BERDITSCHEF [Pol. Zerdyczew], a city, European Russia, gov. Volhynia, dist. of, and 25 m. S. Jitomir. It is an ill-built place, swarming with Jews, but contains several churches, and a large Carmelite convent ; in the church of which is an image of the Virgin Mary, the object of pil grimages. It carries on a considerable trade in corn, wine, cattle, honey, wax, and leather ; and it is famous for its quar terly fairs. At these, goods to the value of about 600,000 are disposed of, and much business is done, especially with Austrian dealers. An almanac of great repute is printed here. Pop. (1842), 35,592. BERDON, BEUDEN, or BERDIN, par. Eng. Essex; 1570 ac. Pop. 391. BERE ISLAND. See BEAR. BERECHTESGADEN, a tn. Bavaria, circle, Upper Bavaria, on the Achen, or Alben, in a pleasant valley at the foot of the two Matzmanns, about 13 m. S. Salzburg. It has a judicial tribunal ; an office of woods and forests ; an ancient cathedral church ; a Franciscan monastery ; a charitable asylum, and a royal palace. The chief manufactures are cutlery and hosiery. The salt mines in the neighbourhood are important, employing 200 miners, who turn out annually about 800 tons of rock salt. Pop. 1800. BERECHURCH, or WEST DONILAND, par. Eng. Essex; 1450ac. Pop. 146. BEREGH, several places in Hungary : 1, A tn., circle, this side the Danube, co. Bacs ; on the Danube, near the con fines of co. Baranya, about 5 m. from Bezdan. Pop. 2331. 2, A market tn. and co., circle, this side the Theiss. The TOWN stands near the Borsoa, in the lordship, and about 14 m. S. Munkacs, and has a pop. of 1750. The COUNTY, area, 1070 geo. sq. m., is hilly in the N., level in the S., and in the latter direction particularly, is very fertile. Great part of the sur face is covered with forests, which abound with game, and in which great herds, both of cattle and swine, are reared. It is well watered by streams, which abound in fish, and are much frequented by water-fowl. Land tortoises also are numerous, and of large size. The principal minerals are iron, rock-crystal, and alumstone. The last is in great abundance, is extensively refined, and bears a high name. Gold, in small quantities, has been found near Muzsaj. There are several extensive swamps, but the climate is said, notwithstanding, to be healthy. Pop. 121,500. BEREGHSZASZ, a tn. Hungary, circle, this side the Theiss, co. Beregh, on both sides the Verke, 16 m. S.S.W. Munkacs, famous for its millstones. In the environs an ex cellent wine is produced ; and a gold mine was at one time worked. Pop. 3560. BEREGUARDO, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 9 m. N.W. Pavia, on the grand canal which runs through Pavia and Abbiate-Grasso. The irrigation of the soil in this district is effected through supplies of water drawn from this canal. Pop. 1002. BERENICE [modern name, SaMyt-d-Kubla, or The Southern Saka"yt ], an anc. port, W. side of the Red Sea, at the extremity of a deep gulf, formed by the projecting point of Septe Extrema, now Ras el-Ans, or Cape Nose; lat. 23 56 N. ; Ion. 35 34 E. The inner bay, which constituted the former port of Berenice, is now nearly filled up with sand. The ancient town was founded by Ptolemy Philadelphus, who named it after his mother. A number of interesting antiqui ties have been found here, including sculptures of various kinds, inscriptions, and hieroglyphics, in which last occur the names of Tiberius and Trajan, &c. ; besides a temple built in the Egyptian style, 102 ft. long, and 43 wide, the walls of which are adorned with well-executed figures in basso-rilievo. The ancient town is said, by Belzoni, to have measured 1600 ft. N. to S., 2000 E. to W., and to have contained 10,000 inhabitants. BERENT, or BEHREND, a tn. and circle, Prussia, gov. Dantzic. The TOWN lies on the Ferse, 32 m. S.W. Dantzic. There are two blast furnaces in the neighbourhood. Pop. 2000. The CIRCLE, area, 470 geo. sq. m., is almost entirely covered with forests and lakes. The chief crop raised is pota toes. Fish is very abundant. The manufactures are various, BEEETHALOM BERGAMO but none of them are carried on to any great extent. Pop. 28,000. BERETIIALOM, or BERTHALM, a market tn. Hungary, Transylvania, in a valley between vine-clad hills, 30 m. N.E. Hermanstadt. It is the residence of a Lutheran superintend ent, and has a Lutheran parish, and a Greek non-united church. Its wines are the best in the principality. Pop. 3290. BERETTYO, a river, E. Hungary, which rises in the Beregh hills, in the N. W. part of Transylvania. It flows N., and then W., and, after a somewhat winding course of about 170 in., falls into the Koros near Szarvas. It is subject to frequent inundations, and is the cause of numerous marshes. BERETTYO-UJFALU, a market tn. Hungary, beyond the Theiss, co. Bihar, r. bank, Berettyo; with a reformed church. Pop. 5426. BEREZINA, a river, European Eussia, which rises in the gov. and N. the town of Minsk ; lat. 54 53 N. ; Ion. 27 4 E. ; and, after. a course mainly S.S.E. for above 250 m., for the most part navigable, falls into the Dnieper 8 m. above Eet- chitzka. It is united to the Diina, or Dwina, by a caual, which thus gives a communication between the Baltic and the Black Sea. This stream is memorable for the disastrous passage of the French army at Studianka, near Borisov, in 1812, on its retreat from Moscow. BEREZNA, a tn. Eussia, gov. of. and 24 m. E.N.E. Tcher- nigov, on the Desna, containing six churches. Pop., including the villages dependent on it, 5500. BEREZOV, or BERESOFF [the town of birch-trees], a tn. Siberia, gov. of, and 400 m. N. Tobolsk, cap. dist. of sa me name, on a height above the 1. bank Sosva, one of the branches of the Obi ; lat. 63 55 59" N.; Ion. 65 4 19" E. (L.) It consists of wooden houses, carefully built of large timbers, and generally with high steps in front, and contains three churches and a chapel. The chief trade of the place is iu connection with the important fair of Obdorsk. Many of the merchants are opulent, and have their warerooms stored with Ostyak and Samoyed products, principally rein-deer skins, much valued for clothing. Its inhabitants, who are chiefly Cos sacks, subsist by the chase and by fishing ; they barter furs, skins, fish, &c., for flour, flesh meat, tobacco, ironware, and brandy, brought by the Tobolsk dealers, whose craft are floated down the Irtish into the Obi. Berezov is the favourite place of resort for the Ostyaks and Yoguls. Prince MenzikofF, the favourite of Peter the Great, died here in exile in 1731, having been banished by his grandson, Peter II. In 1821, nearly a century after, his grave having been opened, the coffin was found embedded in frozen soil, and the contents so entire, that parts of the clothing, and even the eyebrows, heart, and other parts of the body, were sent to his descendants. P. (1842) , 1 1 79. BEREZOV1E, an isl. Eussia, Gulf of Finland, gov. Viborg, separated from the mainland by the Biork Sound or Strait of Berezovie. BERG [hill]. 1, An anc. duchy of Germany, forming part of Ehenish Prussia, and now included in go vs. Anisberg, Cologne, and Diisseldorf. It extended along the Ehine from the Euhr to the frontiers of Nassau, and had an area of 864 geo. sq. m. It is more a manufacturing than an agricultural district, and has long been famed for its minerals, which include iron of the finest quality, lead, copper, zinc, and the precious metals. In addition to the employment furnished by these minerals, the, inhabitants, who are very industrious, have, with considerable success, superadded textile manufac tures. The duchy of Berg, founded in 1 389, had been long con solidated with the Prussian dominions, when, 1806, Napoleon revived the title, and conferred it, with an enlarged territory, on Murat. It returned to Prussia in 1815. Pop. 376,238. 2, Of the numerous places in Germany of the name of BERG, the most deserving of notice is a vil. Wiirtemberg, roman tically seated on the Neckar, N.E. Stuttgart, and containing the remains of the ancient castle of the Lords of Berg. It has a cotton-mill, dye-works, copper-work, and manufactures of leather, a considerable wine and general trade, and a strong chalybeate spring. Pop. 1200. 3, A vil. Switzerland, can. of, and 4 in. N.N.E. St. Gall ; with a church and school. The vicinity yields good fruit and wine; the latter of which used to be a favourite beverage of the abbots of St. Gall, and was presented at all high festivals in the monastery. Pop. 609. 4, A vil. France, dep. Bas-Ehin, 18 m. N.W. Saverne; with lime quarries. Pop. 470. 5, A vil. Holland, prov. Limburg, 11 m. N. by E. Maastricht, r. bank, Maas, built in a semicircle. It has a E. Catholic church, a school, and a corn- mill. Pop. 700. 6, A vil. Holland, prov. N. Holland, 9 m. S.E. Amsterdam, on an island formed by the Vecht; con sisting of a single street, on the W. side of which stands the church, elevated on a height, whence the village takes its name. This elevation or mound is supposed to be of artificial formation, raised for the purpose of keeping the church dry during inundations, to which the place is exposed, from the overflowing of the river. Besides the chutch here referred to, there is also a E. Catholic church. Hoop, charcoal, and vinegar making are carried on, but the principal employments are agriculture and turf-cutting. Pop. 800. BERG-AMBACIIT, a vil. Holland, prov. S. Holland, 14m. E. Eotterdam. It is a good-looking, well-built place, and has a church, built in the 16th century in place of one burnt in 1 51 3. There is a school here. Pop. 650. BERGA. 1, Atn. Spain, Catalonia, prov. Barcelona, 18 in. N.E. Solsona, near the river Lobregat. Its streets are paved, but for the most part narrow and crooked. It has five squares, three churches, a chapel, a Latin, and three other schools ; a small, but respectable townhouse, two prisons, an hospital, theatre, several fountains, and a castle, with a strong battery, by which the town is overlooked and defended. The manu factures of Berga, though on the increase, are confined to cotton fabrics, and the usual branches of mechanical industry ; the bulk of the inhabitants are employed in husbandry and as muleteers, by which conveyance the produce of the vicinity, grain, wine, oil, fruits, &c., are exported. Two annual fairs are held. Pop. 6999. 2, A vil. Prussian States, prov. Saxony, gov. Merseberg, circle of, and near to Sangerhausen ; with an evangelical church, and hospital. Pop. 1182. BERGAMO [anc. Pergamos], a tn. Turkey in Asia, pash. Anatolia, r. bank, Grimaldi or Cai cus, 42 m. N.N.E. Smyrna. It occupies the site of the ancient town, which was the seat of one of the seven churches of Asia, and contains numerous remains attesting its ancient magnificence. In the centre is an extensive ruin, supposed to have been the palace of a Roman emperor. Numerous khans and mosques among the latter, one which, from its style, appears to have been an early Christian church occupy the site of ancient buildings. Triumphal arches, and ruined houses, are interspersed with Turkish hovels. To the S.W. of the castle are the remains of the amphitheatre, with arches of fine workmanship, though now almost under ground. The cemeteries are full of beauti ful relics. Pop. about 10,000. BERGAMO [anc. Bergarmim], a city, Austrian Italy, cap. prov. of same name ; gov. of, and 29 m. N.E. Milan. It is well fortified, being surrounded by walls flanked with bastions, and is defended by several small forts, and is built in the man ner of an amphitheatre, on an isolated height, between the Serio and the Brembo. It is divided into the high and the low town. The former, or town proper, consisting of all that lies within the walls, has steep narrow streets, and old houses, several of them, however, interesting, as affording fine speci mens of the architecture of the Middle Ages. The low town consists of the three districts of St. Antonio, St. Tomaso, and St. Leonard s; the last of which, in particular, is well and regularly built, with spacious well-paved streets, and hand some houses, chiefly occupied by the more wealthy merchants. Bergamo is the seat of a court of primary resort in civil, criminal, and mercantile causes; and the see of a bishop, suf fragan to Milan. It contains a very ancient cathedral, com pletely repaired in 1689, after the designs of Carlo Fontana, and adorned with numerous fine frescoes, wood carvings, and figures in bronze and marble ; and 14 other churches, several of them handsome, and rich in tine paintings. The other public buildings of note are the museum, particularly rich in the antiquities of the district ; the old palace Delia Eagione, with a fine colonnade ; the market hall or fiera, a large quadrangular building, with a handsome piazza, shaded by old trees, and adorned with a beautiful fountain ; the governor s palace ; the municipal buildings ; the theatre ; and the Academia Carrara, so called after its founder, the Count of Carrara, a magnificent building, in which, with a view to promote the study of design and painting, numerous pupils are gratuitously instructed. The chief benevolent institutions are, the general hospital, the foundling hospital, the house of invalids, the house of industry, the institute of mercy, the mont-deyriett, and the peniten- EERGAKA 385 BERGEN tiary. Among the educational establishments are, four higher elementary, and numerous minor schools, a gymnasium, and a lyceum, to which a good collection of philosophical appar atus, and cabinet of natural history, are attached. Here is also an institution for teaching the deaf and dumb. There are in the town some large manufactories of silk, cotton, and woollen stuffs, wax candles, china, and earthenware; and its trade is considerable in these, and in corn, wine, oil, whet- stones, confections, and ironware. Within the market hall, containing 540 booths, a great annual fair, which dates from the 10th century, is held in the months of August and Sep tember, during which all the products of the Austrian pro vinces are exposed for sale, but chiefly silk, wine, and ironware. It is said that goods to the value of 1,000,000 sterling are sometimes sold during the fair. Bergamo is the birthplace of Bernardo Tasso, father of Torqua to Tasso, to the latter of whom a statue has been erected in the great square; of Tiraboschi, a learned Jesuit, author of the Storia della Letteratura Italiana ; of Antonio Serassi, the biographer of Dante, Petrarch, and Tasso ; and of many painters of note. The city was taken by the French in 1796, and made the capital of the department of the Serio. Pop. 32,614. The PROVINCE of Bergamo has an area of 928 sq. m., divided into 18 districts. Its greatest length is about 100m.; its greatest breadth, 45 m. With the exception of the S., which is level and fertile, it is of a mountainous nature, and much covered with wood. Its pastures are rich, and rear large numbers of sheep and goats ; but the produce, neither of corn nor wine, does not equal the con sumption. Chestnuts and olives abound, and considerable quantities of excellent ~"i$^S^ silk are produced. Among the mineral products are iron, marble, whetstones, and lignite. Pop. 363,754. BERGARA, or VERGARA, a tn. Spain, BERGEN from th* cui prov. Guipuzcoa, 25 m. S.E. Bilbao, in a fertile valley, surrounded by mountains, r. bank, Deva. The houses are generally well built, the streets wide, well kept, and paved ; and the two squares, in the principal of which is a substantial townhouse, supported by 12 arches, are spaci ous, though somewhat irregular. The other public edifices are three parish churches, several chapels, an hospital, prison, and fives-court, a convent wherein females are educated, and several public schools. Hardware, agricultural implements, and cutlery, are manufactured ; and a handsome cotton fac tory, recently constructed, employs above 300 persons. In the vicinity, turnips are raised in considerable quantities, and form the chief winter provender of the numerous cattle. An annual fair is held in May for general produce, and one monthly for cattle. This place has obtained considerable celebrity, on account of the Convention of Bergara, concluded here on August 31 , 1839, after protracted negociation between Mazoto and Espartero, thereby putting an end to the disastrous civil war of that period. The site of this act of fraternization is called El Campo del Abrazo. Pop. 3785. BERGEDORF, a small tn. Germany, under the joint jurisdiction of Liibcck and Hamburg, and about 10 m. E.S.E. the latter, with which it is connected by a railway. It carries on a considerable trade. Pop. 2151. BERGEN, a tn. and seaport, Norway, cap. prov. of same name, and of bail. Sondre Bergenhuus, beautifully situated iwar the head of the innermost bay of liyfiord, called Vaagen, about 25 m. from the open sea, and 186 m. N.W. Christiania; lat. 60 24 N. ; Ion. 5 18 E. (it.) The houses are mostly timber built, and painted white ; those of the wealthier classes being often very handsome structures, somewhat in the Dutch style. By the side of each door stands a water cask, for use in case of fire, from which Bergen has frequently suffered severely. The streets are irregular and narrow, but for the most part well paved. The Strand-Gaden, the principal thoroughfare and place of traffic, is described by Mr. Forres ter as having a busy air, from the number of shops, and the groups of citizens, sailors, and country people by whom it is thronged. Almost all the houses of the better sort have pots of flowers ranged in the windows, the effect of which is ex ceedingly pleasing. There are five churches in the town, including the cathedral ; of these the most remarkable, as well as the most ancient, is the German, or St. Mary s Church, situated near the entrance-gate on the N. side of the port. The exterior is of a cumbrous, but effective, style of architec ture ; it has two towers, and contains many objects of interest, including an ancient altar-piece, and several fine specimens of carving. All the other churches are of modern date, and have no particular claim to attention. The principal schools comprise: one cathedral school (a handsome new building), and five church schools ; two burgher ; four poor and free schools, and one commercial and artizan school. There are several charities, hospitals, and poorhouses ; three or four small libraries, in one of which both native and foreign works are to be had ; a theatre, and a museum, the latter containing a large and interesting collection of Norsk antiquities. The only other place worthy of special notice is the castle, or fortress, which commands the entrance to the harbour ; it is of irregular construction, consisting of three bastions, and a ravelin towards the town, and three bastions and two batteries towards the sea. All the guns, however, are now dis mounted, except one battery of twelve-pounders, on traversing platforms. Within the fort there is an agreeable promenade, and several walks planted with trees. Above all rises Walk- endorf s Tower, a square massive building, with a flat roof of stone, supported by immense beams of timber, forming a platform, from which a splendid view of the surrounding scenery is obtained. The inhabitants of Bergen are said to be remarkable for an excessive politeness. Persons who have but the slightest acquaintance of each other, on meet ing in the street, uncover the head with a profound obeisance; the same ceremony is observed as often as a window is passed in which females are seated. On entering a shop for the purpose of purchasing any trifling article, the intending pur chaser takes off his hat, and remains uncovered during the transaction. Even young boys take off their caps to each other in the street with the utmost gravity. The principal manufactures of Bergen are tobacco-spinning, candle-making, rope-making, and shipbuilding ; there are also several distilleries. Its commerce, though much fallen off from what it was in former times, still exceeds that of any other port in Norway. Vessels from almost every country in Europe may be seen in its harbour ; and in the early part of the season, it is crowded with the craft which bring the produce of the cod-fisheries from the stations on the N. coast, and by the sea-going ships by which it is conveyed to foreign ports. Bergen exports annually about 231,250 worth of stock fish, and 400,000 or 500,000 barrels of salted herrings, with 20,000 barrels of cod-oil. Large quantities of spawn and fish-scales also, are sent to the S. of Europe, where they are used as baits, particularly for the fishery of sardines, in the Mediterranean. There is likewise a considerable ex- 49 BERGEN 386 BERGHOLT port of rye. The principal imports are com, brandy, and wines, cotton and woollen manufactures, slates, soap, salt, coals, hemp, aud colonial produce. In 1 846, there were 364 | vessels belonging to the port, and in the same year it was ! entered by 973 vessels, in all about 71,000 tons. The ! business of the place is facilitated by a branch of the Nor wegian bank, established here. The harbour is sheltered and secure, but is of difficult, and even dangerous access, without a pilot. Bergen was founded in the llth century, and was at an early period a town of the Hanseatic League, but since Chris tian ia has become the seat of the legislature, as well as of a university, it has taken precedence of the former, while lofty ranges of empty warehouses, extending along the quay, testify at once the large scale on which trade was here conducted by the llanse merchants in the latter part of the 16th century, and the decay which ensued on the overthrow of the Hanse atic influence in the middle of the 18th. Bergen sends four representatives to the Storthing, or Senate, of Norway. Although there is little attraction in the town itself, its vicinity is exceedingly picturesque, having mountains 2000 ft. in height on three sides, and the fiord, with its islands, in front. Numbers of beautifully-situated villas are scattered along the heights, commanding fine and extensive views. Top. (1845), 25,000. (Forrester s Norway in 1848, 1849 ; Skoldberg s Beskrifning dfver Skandinaviska Half on; Parlia mentary Papers ; Murray s Handbook.) BERGEN. 1, A tn. Prussia, cap. of isl. Eiigen, 15 m. N.E. Stralsund, situated in the centre of the island ; streets aud lanes dirty, and the houses mean. North of the town rises the hill of Rugard, the highest in Eiigen, crowned by old fortresses, and from which a complete view of the whole island is commanded. Bergen has a court of justice, a castle, and a convent of noble ladies. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in agricultural pursuits, and the linen manufacture. Pop. 3100. The CIKCLE of the same name has an area of about 275 geo. sq. m. The surface is generally flat, fertile, and well cultivated. The district around Gingst in particular, is so rich, as to have acquired for it the name of Paradise. Pop. 38,500. Numerous places in Germany have the name of BEKGEN. 2, a vil. Holland, prov. Limburg, 25 m. N. Eoermonde. It has a E. Catholic church, and a school ; and in the vicinity are several breweries, two tanneries, two grain, two oil, and two malt mills. Pop. 850. 3, Two vils. and two townships, U. States : a vil. and township, New York, 237 m. W. Albany. Pop. 2032. a vil. and township, New Jersey, 56 m. N.E. Trenton. It was settled by Danes in 1616, and contains two churches and 14 schools. Pop. 5255. BERGEN, or BERGENS-STIFT, an administrative prov. and diocese, Norway ; bounded, N. by prov. Trondhjem, E. by Chrfstiania, S. by Christiansand, and W. by the N. Sea. It lies between lat. 59 30 and 62 41 N., and Ion. 4 42 and 8 12 E. ; area, 1C ; 984 geo. sq. in. It is mountainous; the coast is very much indented by a multitude of bays, gulfs, and fiords, and fringed by innumerable islands and rocks. The highest hills are on the E. boundary, and among them may be named the Uouklefjeld, Ilardangerfjeld, Halnefjeld, Filefjeld, and Sognefjeld, all portions of the Langefjeld ; besides these, there are numerous lofty peaks in other parts of the province. Many of the hills are covered with perpetual snow, and on their slopes are numerous glaciers. The valleys are narrow, and only the islands and the coast land can be said to be low. Lakes and rivers of any size there are none, but there arc innumerable rivulets. Though mountainous, Bergens-Stift is by no means well wooded; the forests having been to a great extent exhausted, the hills are now mostly covered merely with copsewood. In consequence of this want, the iron and copper, which are plentiful, can only be wrought to a very limited extent. Besides metals, marble, whetstones, millstones, &c., are wrought. Agriculture is not much pursued ; and though some grain, vegetables, and fruits are raised, yet the quantity is far from being sufficient for the demands of the inhabitants, who mainly subsist by cattle- rearing and fishing, for which the fine pastures, and numerous gulfs and fiords, render it peculiarly well adapted. The climate is moist ; winter is wet, dark, and cold, and summer warm. Manufactories, except in the capital, Bergen, which is the only town in the province, there are none; but the country people make violins, combs, turnery-wares, and fish ing-nets. Bergens-Stift is divided into two ami or bailiwicks Nordre (North) Bergenliuus (area, 5072 geo. sq. m.), and Smdre (South) Bergenliuus (area, 4368 geo. sq. m.) ; and one fiigderi or stewartry, SimdmiJers ftijderi, being a portion of the bailiwick of Komsdal ; area, 4544 geo. sq. m. The pro vince is subjoined into six fogderi or stewartries, and 168 parishes. Pop. of prov. (1845), 276,281. BERGENHUUS (NORDRE and SONDRE), Norway, two bailiwicks in Bergen or Bergens-Stift (which see). BERGEN-OP-ZOOM, an important fortress and port, Holland, prov. N. Brabant (formerly cap. of a margraviate of same name), in a marshy situation, r. bank, E. Scheldt, 20 m. N.N.W. Antwerp; lat. (church) 5 r 29 42" N.; Ion. 4 17 30" E. (R.) It is strongly fortified both by nature and art, the impassable morass on one side adding greatly to the strength of the defences constructed in 1699-1700, by the celebrated Coehorn. The town has four gates, and a con venient harbour, furnished with spacious quays, planted with trees. It is generally well built, and has been greatly im proved since 1831, when many houses were destroyed, and many lives lost, by an unfortunate explosion which then took place. It has five open squares, of which the most important are the great market, the fish market, and the horse square. In the great market stands the townhouse, a large elegant building ; and in the middle of the town is the barracks, an old good-looking edifice, still called Markiezenhof, and form erly used by the Margraves as a place of residence. The military hospital, formerly a nunnery; the cloth hall, now used as a military watch-house ; the shambles, now become a repository of works of art, are all respectable structures of their kind. The places of worship are a E. Catholic and two Protestant churches, and a synagogue ; and the schools, a Latin, a French, and five common schools. Of benevolent institutions there are several, an hospital for old men, one for orphans, and an infirmary, besides some others of less note. Bergen-op-Zoom was at one time a place of much greater commercial importance than it is now, having suffered greatly from the proximity and rise of Antwerp. Some transit and shipping, however, is still done, and some fishing carried on, the anchovies and plaice caught in the neighbourhood being highly esteemed. Many of the inhabitants, however, depend on the garrison for their support. The principal manufactures of the town are earthenware and tiles, which are considered to be of a superior description, and for the making of which there are no less than ten establishments. The only other manu factures are ale and salt. The history of this fortress dates as far back as A.D. 422, at which period a castle is said to have stood here. Bergen-op-Zoom suffered greatly during the Spanish war, and was deemed impregnable, having withstood the attacks both of the Duke of Parma (1581 and 1588), and of the Spanish General, Spinola (1622), and others; but in 1747, it was taken, after a siege of 63 days, by the French under the Count of Lowenthal. It was again taken by the French in 1794. An attempt made to reduce it, in 1813-U, by the British under Sir Thomas Graham, was unsuccessful, and the loss to the besiegers considerable. Pop. 7000. (Van der Aa s Aardrijkskundig Woordmboek de.r Nederlandcn.) BERGERAC, a tn. France, dep. Dordogne, 25 m. S.S.W. Pcrigueux; on a large and fertile plain, r. bank, Dordogne, here crossed by a fine bridge of five arches. The town is in general very badly built, the greater portion being composed of narrow, crooked streets. It contains a theatre, a public library, a communal college, a court of first resort, and manu factories of liqueurs, chemical stuffs, serges, and crockery. In the neighbourhood are iron-foundries, tanneries, and brandy-distilleries. A considerable trade is carried on in grain, truffles, white wine, iron, copper, timber, and paper. Pop. 6805. BERGHEIM, a tn. France, dcp. Ilaut Ehin (Alsace), about 9 m. from Colmar. On a height above it stands the old castle of Eeichenberg. The manufactures are cutlery and larger articles of ironmongery. Pop. 3363. BERGHOLT, a vil. and two pars. England:!, A vil. Suffolk, N. bank of the Stour, 6 m. S.S.E. Hadleigh, and {) m. S.S.W. Ipswich ; contains a church, in the decorated Gothic style, the tower of which is unfinished. 2, Bergltolt (East), par. Suffolk; 2380 ac. Pop. 1461. 3, Bergholt (West), par. Essex; 2170 ac. Pop. 822. (Local Correspondent.} BEEGOO 387 BERKHAMPSTEAD BEEGOO, or BEKGOU, an extensive territory in the in terior of Africa, bounded, E. by Nubia and Darfur, W. by Berghanni. It is more generally named Wada or Waday (which see). BERGREICHENSTEIN, a tn. and lordship, Austria, Bohemia, circle, Prachin. The town lies in a narrow valley, 42 m. S.S.E. Pilsen, and was once famous for its gold mines. It contains two churches, three chapels, a townhouse, and school. About 30 persons are still employed in the mines, which are nearly exhausted ; but the inhabitants live chiefly by agriculture and weaving. Pop. of tn. 1752 ; of lordship, 4593. BERGUES, a fortified tn. France, dep. Nord, 5 m. S. Dunkirk ; situated in a marshy country, at the junction of the Bergues, Dunkirk, and Colme Canals. The town is well built of brick, has a good port on the canal, capable of admitting vessels of 250 tons, and is the centre of a considerable trade. The Hotel de Ville is very elegant ; but the most remarkable THE CLOCK TOWER AND HOTEL DE VILLK, BEKGUES. From Coney s Cathedrals and Hotels de Ville. edifice is the belfry, upwards of 160 ft. high, of unknown date, but supposed to be of Spanish origin. The other public build ings are two high towers that once belonged to the abbey of St. Winnoc, preserved to serve as landmarks to vessels entering the port of Dunkirk ; a public library, and a museum. Bergues has manufactures of soft soap, earthenware, hats, cotton yarn, and lace. It has also sugar and salt refineries, distilleries, tanneries, and a considerable trade in grain, cheese, butter, wine, brandy, and cattle. The weekly grain and cattle market is the most extensive in this part of France. The fortifications were constructed after the plans of Vauban, and it is now a fortified place of the first class. Bergues owes its origin to the castle of Berg, to which St. Winnoc retired in 902. Baldwin II., Count of Flanders, walled and fortified it; and Baldwin IV. adorned it with a magnificent monastery, in honour of St. Winnoc. In the beginning of the 13th century, it had become a flourishing manufacturing town, but suffered greatly during the three following centuries, when it passed successively under different masters, and was subjected to a series of assaults, in one of which, by the French (1383), the most fearful atrocities were committed. It was finally secured to France by the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle. Pop. 5827. BERGUM, a vil. Holland, prov. Friesland, 9 m. E. Leeu- warden ; pleasantly situated, N. side of lake of same name, in a flat country, well covered with underwood, and possessing good pasture and arable land. Bergum has a church and i school, and two annual markets one for cattle, the other for j horses. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in agriculture, i and in rearing young trees. Formerly there was a convent here; and on some neighbouring moorlands, Coehorn, the celebrated constructor of fortifications, while a youth, made some of his early experiments. Pop. 1900. The LAKE has a circumference of about 9 m., and, by means of canals, communicates with the sea both from the E. and from the W. side. BERGZABERN, a tn. Bavaria, circle, Pfalz, 10 m. S.S.W. Landau. It contains a R. Catholic and two Pro testant churches, a castle and several public offices. It has some tobacco factories, a saw, oil, and two flour mills. Iron stone is worked in the neighbourhood. Pop. 2565. BER1NGEN, a vil. and par. Switzerland, can. of, and 3 m. W. Schaffhausen ; at the foot of the Eanden, in the midst of vineyards and cherry orchards, from the former of which a good wine, and from the latter a famous cherry brandy is made. Pop. 1417. BERJA, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 22 m. W. Almeria, in a glen overlooked by the sierra de Gaclor. The houses are generally two stories high, well built, commodious, and have gardens attached ; the streets are clean, and paved. It has four squares, of which the principal one contains the parish church and townhouse. The other town buildings are a chapel, prison, storehouse, a Latin and three primary schools, a cemetery, and several fountains. Linen fabrics, hats, hard ware, wine, oil, and leather are manufactured. Lead and antimony, from the mines of the sierra de Gador, are smelted and exported to Adra and Roquetas ; and some of the inhab itants are engaged in husbandry. Berja suffered severely from an earthquake in 1804, during which numerous indi viduals were maimed, and 67 lost their lives. Many public edifices were also destroyed, amongst others the parish church, which has since been only partially restored. The structure now used as a sanctuary was once a pantheon. Pop. 8709. (Madoz.) BERKEL, two vils. Holland: 1, a vil., prov. N. Bra bant, 9 m. S.W. Hertogenbosch, whose inhabitants, about 500, are employed in agriculture, raising chiefly rye, buck wheat, and coleseed. 2, a vil., prov. S. Holland, about 8 m. N.W. Eotterdam ; well built, with a Calvinistic, a Remon strant, and a R. Catholic church, and a school. Pop. 1100. BERKEL, BOKCKEL, or BORKUL, a river, Holland, prov. Gelderland. It rises in the Prussian province, Westphalia, near Coesfeld, flows with a generally N.W. course past Borkulo and Lochem in Holland, and falls into the Ijssel at Zutphen, after a course, exclusive of windings, of nearly 50 m. It is in many places shallow, and sanded up, so that it is of very little use as a water-way. BERKELEY, a market tn. and par. England, co. Glou cester. The TOWN, 16 m. S.W. Gloucester, is pleasantly situated on a gentle eminence in the vale of Berkeley, r. bank, Avon, about 1 m. from its junction with the Severn, and within 1 m. of the Bristol and Birmingham Railway. It con sists chiefly of two irregular streets, one of which is well paved, and contains some good houses of brick and stone water abundant. The church is a spacious structure, style later Norman and early English; it contains some curious monuments, and is the burial-place of Dr. Edward Jenner. There is also here a Wesleyan chapel. The Avon being navigable to the town, for vessels of 40 or 50 tons burden, a pretty extensive trade is carried on by its means, in coal, brought from the Forest of Dean. At the S.E. end of the town stands Berkeley Castle, esteemed a singularly perfect specimen of castellated building. It has been the scene of many remarkable events, including the atrocious murder of Edward II. The date of the commencement of the castle has not been ascertained ; but it is known to have existed long prior to the 12th century. A tradition, told by Matthew of Westminster, respecting an old woman, a noted witch, who lived in Berkeley A.D. 852, has furnished Southey with the subject of a curious ballad. The PAKISU is the largest in the county, comprising about 14,680 ac. Pop. 4405; of town, 926. (Local Correspondent:) BERKESWELL, a par. Eng., co. Warwick; 6360 ac. Pop. 1504. BERKHAMPSTEAD, a tn., vil., and three pars. Eng land, all in co. Hertford: 1, Berkhampstcad (Great), a tn. and par., the former beautifully situated in a hollow, surrounded by hills, on the main road leading from London to Ayles- BERKLEY SOUND BERLIN bury ; W. side of the Bulbourn stream, and tlie Grand Junction Canal ; on the line of the London and North- Western Railway; 26 m. N.W. London, by railway; and 26by road. It consists almost wholly of one main street, which is nearly 1 m. in length; is well-supplied with water, and is lighted with gas. The church is an ancient and beautiful Gothic edifice, and contains some curious antique monuments. The other places of worship are, a Baptist, Independent, and Wesleyan chapels, and a Friends meeting-house. Schools : one national, with infant school connected, one day school, on the British system, one charity school, called Bourne s school after the founder, and maintained by endowment ; and a free grammar-school, where a certain number of boys receive a liberal education. There are various small charities and benevolent associations connected with the different religious denominations, and a mechanics institute on a small scale. The only manufacture is straw-plaiting. Market-day, Satur day, chiefly for corn. Four fairs annually. Petty sessions are held once a fortnight. Area of par. 4250. Pop. 2979. 2, Berkhampstcad (Little), a par., and small but neat vil. in hund. of Hertford, 4 m. S.W. Hertford. It contains a national school, for boys and girls, and a provident society, one of the principal establishments of the kind in the county. Area of par. Iu70 ac. Pop. 555. 3, BcrMampstead (St. Mary), a par., hund. Dacorum. Area, 3890 ac. Pop. 1265. (Local Correspondent.} BERKLEY SOUND, a spacious inlet, at the N.E. extremity of E. Falkland Island, about 4 m. wide at its entrance, and upwards of 15 m. in length, terminating in three excellent and distinct anchorages, Johnson Harbour, Stag Road, and Port Louis. This sound is the only place on the E. coast of the island that can be entered by night. BERKSHIRE, an inland co. England, and one of the most beautiful in the kingdom, bounded, N. by Oxford and Buckingham, from which it is separated by the Thames, E. by Buckingham and Surrey, S. by Southampton, and W. by Wilts. Area, 481,280 ac. ; of which 237,000 are arable, meadow, and dairy land. The principal high land consists of a range of downs, running W. by N. ; which in some parts attain a considerable elevation. The soil is various, being very poor on the hills, and in the low lands, cold and labo rious to work ; but in the district called the vale of the White Horse, which comprises a large portion of the county N. of the chalk range, there occurs some of the most fertile lands in England, and in its W. parts, the richest pastures. Here, also, along the bottom of the hills, lies the fine corn laud for which the vale is renowned. The vale of Kennet, extending along the river of that name for about 25 m., is also a fine tract of land, and well adapted for corn, though not so fertile as the vale of the White Horse. The E. part of the county, or what is called the forest district, contains Windsor Forest, part of Bagshot Heath, and some other considerable tracts of waste land. It is, perhaps, the least productive part of the county, but exhibits much pleasing woodland scenery. Rich meadows stretch along the banks of the Thames and Kennet. Agriculture is a good deal improved in this county, but is still at rather a low ebb. Principal crops, oats and wheat. Farms are usually held on leases for 7 and 14 years; but, as there are rarely any restrictions imposed on the tenant as to cultivation or mode of cropping, the land is generally in bad condition, and is often left by the outgoing tenant completely exhausted. Farms, for the most part, rather small, average rent in 1842-43, 1, 4s. 8%d. per acre. The W. parts of the vale of the White Horse, is celebrated for its dairies ; producing cheese of the description called Double Gloucester. The number of cows has been estimated at 5000, and the quantity of cheese made at 1000 tons. The cattle are now chiefly of the Holderncss and Teeswater breeds ; but Scotch and AVelsh cattle are extensively grazed in the forest district. Of sheep, the South Down breed, but much crossed, is at present the most generally diffused. The total stock of sheep has boen estimated at about 308,000, and the total annual produce of wool at 4500 packs. Hogs are reared in great numbers in this county, and are esteemed the best in England. Manu factures and minerals, of no importance. Berkshire con tains 20 hundreds, and 151 parishes. It returns nine members to the House of Commons three for the county, two each for the boroughs of Reading and Windsor, and one each for Abingdon and Wallingford. Annual value of real propertv, iu 1842-43, 967,475. Pop. (1851), 170,065. BERLAER, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. Antwerp, 10 m. N.E. Mechlin, on the Greater Nethe. The inhabit ants are chiefly employed in weaving, and have also a little trade in wood and coal. Pop. 3075. BERLAERE, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. E. Flanders, r. bank, Scheldt, 12 m. E. Ghent. Agriculture and weaving are the principal employments. Pop. 3505. BERLANGA, a tn. Spain, Estremadura, prov. Badajoz, j 13 m. E. Llerina, in a hilly district. It has a parish church, | several schools, town and court houses, prison, poor s hospital, j large fountain, several convents, and a cemetery. The in habitants are chiefly engaged in tillage, and manufacturing frieze cloth. An annual fair is held in August. Pop. 3410. BERLEBURG, a tn. Prussia, prov. Westphalia, gov. of, and 28 m. S.S.E. Arnsberg. It is the residence of the prince of Wittgenstein ; has some manufactures of woollen goods ; and in the neighbourhood are several forges and iron- mills. Pop. 2035. BERLENGAS, a group of small islands in the Atlantic, near the W. coast of Portugal, about 8 in. N.W. Peniche ; lat. 39 25 N. ; Ion. 9 30 W. They are surrounded by shelving rocks, and are, for the most part, precipitous. Berlenga, the chief of them, has some flat ground and a fresh-water spring, and is defended by a small fort, which has been occasionally used as a state prison. BERLICHINGEN, a vil. Wiirtemberg, on the Jaxt, 7$ m. W.N.W. Kunzelsau ; with a E. Catholic church and a syn agogue. Wool-spinning is carried on ; but a large proportion of the inhabitants are musicians, in which capacity they travel about to distant parts. There was formerly here a castle, the natal place of the family of Berlichingen, from which sprung the famous robber knight Gb tz von Berlichingen, with the iron hand, whom Goethe has made the subject of one of his dramas. Pop. 1410. BERL1KUM, a vil. Holland, prov. Friesland, about 8 m. N.W. Leeuwarden, consisting chiefly of a double row of houses, running E. and W., with some small bye-streets, all well paved. It has a beautiful Calvinistic and a Baptist church, and a school ; and its inhabitants are chiefly engaged in trafficking in apples, pears, berries, and other fruits, the ! produce of their gardens and orchards. Two annual fairs are held. Pop. 1200. BERLIN, a post township, U. States, Connecticut, 10 m. S. by W. Hartford ; containing New Britain, a considerable vil., where various articles, particularly tin ware, are exten sively manufactured. It has an academy and 16 schools Pop. (1840), 5255. BERLIN [anc. Berle uncultivated land], the cap. of the Prussian dominions, the residence of the King and foreign ambassadors, prov. of Brandenburg; lat. (new observatory) 52 30 16" N.; Ion. 13 23 53" E. (L.) ; after Vienna, the largest town in Germany, and, for the beauty and size of its build ings, the regularity of its streets, the importance of its insti tutions of science and art, and its activity, industry, and trade, one of the first cities in Europe. It is situated on a dreary sandy plain, about 126 ft. above the level of the sea, on both sides of the Spree, a sluggish stream, here about 200 ft. broad, which winds through the city from S.E. to N.W., and, near its centre, forms an island by the division of its channel. It is somewhat more than 10m. in circumference, and occupies a surface of 6700 ac. It is surrounded with a wall 16 ft. high, with 16 gates, besides minor outlets; and divided into 11 sections or quarters, namely, Berlin Proper, Old and New Kolln, Friederichswerder, Luisenstadt, Dorotheenstadt, Friedrich-wilhelms-stadt, Spandauer quarter, Kb nigs-stadt, and Stralauer quarter, besides the two suburbs beyond the walls Kosenthal and Oranienburg. The principal public buildings are in Berlin Proper. The original portion of the city lies on the r. bank of the river, and is very irregularly built, consisting, for the most part, of narrow crooked streets, and very indifferent houses. The more recent portion rose up, as if by magic, at the orders of Frederick the Great ; who, having previously adopted a plan, subdividing its intended site by straight and spacious streets, partly parallel, and partly at right angles to each other, caused them to be lined by elegant houses of uniform appearance, and, for the purpose of occupying a larger space, of only two stories iu height. BERLIN 3S9 BERLIN As yet, however, the plan has only been partially completed, and nearly a third of the whole space within the walls, to wards the S. and E., is still unoccupied. The houses are built partly of white freestone, but the greater number are of brick covered with a thin coating of plaster or stucco. The drainage of the city, however, owing to the flatness of the ground on which it stands, and to the sluggishness of the Spree, is so bad, that, in hot weather, the most offensive odours pollute the air and render it unhealthy. The streets are now well paved and well lighted with gas. Hackney coaches and other street conveyances are numerous, and under excellent surveillance. The houses are all heated with stoves. Of the numerous bridges, the finest is the long bridge or Frederick s bridge, constructed of iron, 245 ft. long, and 33 ft. broad, with eight arches, each of 27 ft. diameter. The city has 27 churches, and 1 synagogue; 17 public hos pitals, 8 military infirmaries, 17 barracks, 8 royal magazines, and 24 cemeteries, 16 within the walls, and 8 beyond. Ber lin, though not advantageously situated, is one of the finest cities of Europe. Its principal and most frequented street, the Uriter den Linden, is perhaps unsurpassed. It is situated in the new portion of the city, and traverses it from E. to W. It is three quarters of a mile in length, and of remarkable width, the centre- being occupied by a double avenue of lime-trees, which give it its name, and form a fine shady pro menade ; while on either side of the trees is a carriage way, and beyond each carriage way, in front of the houses, a spa cious foot pave ment. At the E. end of this street are clustered the principal public buildings of the city, the museum, with its fine col lection of sculp ture and paint ings; and behind it the new mu seum, erected for the reception of Egyptian antiqui ties; and the castle or schloss, royal palace, arsenal, university, opera house, and theatre, and, diverging from it, several fine squares : at the W. end, it terminates magnifi cently with the Brandenburg gate, a noble structure, modelled, on a grand scale, after the Propyloeum of Athens, and regarded as one of the finest portals in existence. It is surmounted by a colossal Victory, mounted in a car drawn by four horses, and bearing in her hand an eagle and iron cross. Outside the walls, immediately beyond this portal, are two large open spaces ; on the right, the Exerzier Platz, or exercise-ground, where the troops are drilled ; and, on the left, the Thiergarten, an exten sive and well-wooded park. The royal castle or scltloss is a vast pile, more remarkable for a certain air of grandeur than architectural beauty. It is sumptuously furnished, and contains the great library belonging to the heir-apparent, the royal treasury, a valuable picture-gallery, with museums of natural history, the mechanical and fine arts, including an interesting collection of historical relics. The arsenal (Zeiujliaus} is a building of the most exquisite architecture. It is in the Grecian style, and above the windows of the inner court are 21 masks, admirably carved in stone by Schliiter, and repre senting the agonies of dying combatants. The apartments on its first and second floors form a kind of military museum ; the former containing various kinds ot ancient artillery, and the latter about 00,000 stand of arms. The palace of Prince Albert, a handsome edifice ; the architectural academy, by the emi nent architect, Schinkel, one of his most original achievements in this department of art ; the Italian opera-house, the colon nade of the new museum, the guard-house, and the university, are all beautiful structures. Amongst the more remarkable monuments are an equestrian statue, in bronze, of the great Elector Frederick William, finely placed on an elevated pedestal at one extremity of the long bridge. In front of the arsenal is a statue of Bliicher, also in bronze, in which the celebrated IJauch has admirably succeeded in exhibiting both the features and well-known characteristics of the hero. Two marble statues by the same sculptor one of Bulow and another of Leharnhorst, are well deserving of notice. There are also, in the square called Willhelms Platz, statues of six heroes of the Seven Years War Prince of Anhalt Dessau, Generals Ziethen, Schwerin, Winterfeldt, Keith, and Seid- litz, but they have little merit. The literary institutions of the city are numerous and respectable ; they include the uni versity, attended by nearly 1800 students, and numbering, among its professors, many names of European reputation ; the academy of sciences, the gymnasia or high schools, of which there are six, with a number of less celebrated aca demies ; an institution for instructing the deaf and dumb, an academy of fine arts, the Gewerlie Schule or in dustrial school, where promising young artists are taught drawing, modelling, &c., gratuitously. Berlin is the li terary and scien tific metropolis of Germany, and, in the various walks of literature, phi losophy, science, and art, can show a galaxy of names such as few cities can equal. Since the time of Fre derick the Great, it has been the policy of thePrus- sian kings to at tract to their capi tal, either through professorships in the university or otherwise, learn ed men in every department of knowledge. Consequently, though but a city almost of yester day, the number of eminent men who have laboured, or who still labour, within the walls of Berlin, is very great. Of those who are world-renowned, may be named Leibnitz, who founded the academy of sciences in 1700, and became its first president ; the pious Spener, the historian Puffendorf, the philosophers Fichte, Schleiermacher, F. A. Wolf, and Hegel ; the theo logians Neander, Twetsten, and Hengstenberg ; the historians Earike and von Uaumer ; the geographers Kilter and Leipsius ; the linguists Bopp, Zumpt, the brothers Grimm, and many others. In the natural sciences, stands unrivalled in the present or any other age, Alexander von Humboldt; and after him are many brilliant names, as Poggendorf, Ermann, Mitscherlich, IJose, Erichson, Ehrenberg, and Link. Many others might be mentioned ; but it may suffice, further, to name the poets Tieck and Riickert, the famous sculptors Kauch and Schadow, and the composer Felix Mendelssohn. The charitable institutions include the hospital of charity, the royal institution for providing for widows, the hospital for invalids, the hospital of St. Dorothy, the new royal hospital, &c., with a great number besides for all kinds of benevolent purposes. The manufactures of Berlin are various and extensive. Its chief productions are china, silks, cottons, stockings, ribbons, BERLIXCHEN 390 BERMUDA ISLANDS cast iron ware, types, silk hats, paper, oils, refined sugars, two of which one of them a very handsome buildin^ have tabacco, ami snuff. In the iron-foundry, busts, statues, has reliefs, and copies of pictures, are cast ; together with a great variety of ornaments of unrivalled delicacy of workmanship. The black varnish with which the ironware is laid over, to prevent rust, is made of amber, dissolved, and mixed with lamp-black. The society of the upper classes of Berlin is difficult of access, and their hospitality limited. Music is here extensively and successfully cultivated. The perform ance of sacred vocal music in particular, has attained extra ordinary perfection. The opera and theatres are on the most respectable footing, and are liberally encouraged, the taste for such entertainments pervading all classes. The local affairs of the place are administered by a magistracy, consist ing of 25 individuals, with the assistance of the assembly of deputies. Railways. Berlin is well supplied with railways. It communicates W. direct with Hamburg ; N. with Stet tin, and thence S.E. with Posen ; E. through Frankfort -on -the -Oder and Breslau, with Cracow, Warsaw, and Austria ; S. by a line of two forks one to Leipzig by Cothen and Halle, and the other to Dresden, and from these cities communicating: with the lines of S.W. Germany; S.W. through Potsdam, with Magdeburg, and thence through Hanover, with Cologne, Bel gium, and France. History. About two centuries ago, Berlin was a place of little importance. It was confined to the immediate bank of the Spree, and the island which divides its channel ; and consisted of a series of villages, which have grad ually merged into each other, and now form its different quarters. The first important improvement was made by the great Elector, Frederick William, who planted the Uuter den Linden. His successor, Frederick I., seconded his efforts ; but Berlin never assumed the appearance of a capital till the tim been erected within the last two years ; and several dissenting chapels, including Baptists and Wesleyans, and a handsome R. Catholic chapel. There is also a convent of the Sisters of Mercy for about 40 inmates, a free school, the united charity schools ; each of the four churches above mentioned having, besides, schools attached. Leather-tanning is carried on here to a great extent ; there are also numerous woolstaplers, felt- mongers, curriers, and manufacturers of vellum, parchment, and hats ; vinegar-works, a distillery, a brewery, and some boat-building. The London and Greenwich Railway crosses the parish by means of a magnificent viaduct. Area of par. 620 ac. Pop. (1841), 34,947. (Local Correspondent.) BERMUDAS (THE), or SOMEU S ISLANDS, a group of islands, N. Atlantic Ocean, belonging to Great Britain, 580 m. of Frederick the Great, who, determined to make it worthy of his extended dominions, enclosed a large space within the walls, and pro ceeded to build upon it, to supply the wants, not so much of actual, as of an anticipated population. He was twice interrupted in the work, and almost driven from his purpose, when, in 1757, the city fell into the hands of the Austrians ; and, in 1760, into those of the Austrians and Eussians. But he soon repaired the damage ; and his successors, having fol lowed ardently in his steps, Berlin has rapidly risen to be the second city in Germany in respect of population, and perhaps the very first in respect of architectural grandeur and political influence. Pop. (1846), 408,502 ; of whom 19,194 were sol diers, and 5000 Jews. (Huhn s Lex. Deutschland; Murray s Handbook; Forster s Deutschland; Dieterici, Die Bev dkerung des Prcussisclien Staats.} BERLINCHEN, a tn. Prussia, gov. Frankfort, on the large lake of the same name, 40 m. S.E. Stettin, with a large church, an hospital, a paper-mill, linen manufactures, and distilleries. Pop. 3400. BERMEJO. See VERMEJO. BERMEO, a tn. and seaport. Spain, prov. Biscay, 15 m. N. Bilbao, lat. 43 35 N. ; Ion. 2 40 W., on a slope facing the bay. It has two parish churches, two schools, a town- house, which contains the prison and the public storehouse, a custom-house, two fountains (one of medicinal waters) , and some convents. The chief occupation of the inhabitants is agricul ture, fishing, and salting and drying fish, which they export, although the trade has much fallen off. Pop. 4000. (Madoz.) BERMONDSEY, a tn. and par. England, co. Surrey, r. bank, Thames. The town is 1 j m. S.S.E. London, and consists of several principal streets, all straight, paved, and well kept, and a number of smaller. The houses are of various form and construction, and mostly of brick, with some ancient structures of timber intermingled. It is lighted with gas, and amply supplied with water ; and has four churches, S.E. Cape Hatteras, in N. Carolina, and lying between lat. 32 14 and 32 25 N., and Ion. 64 38 and 64 52 W. They lie S.W. to N.E., based on the edge of a bank stretching in the same direction, 23 m. by 13; but only occupy a space of about 18 m. by 6, though said to be about 365 in num ber. They are separated from each other by very narrow channels, and are mostly rocky islets, five only being of any considerable size. They are of difficult access, being enclosed on three sides, N., W., and S., by formidable coral reefs, nearly all under water, and extending, in some parts, 1 m. from the islands, the only reefs of this description occurring in the whole central expanse of the Atlantic Ocean. Some of the corals now growing here, are asserted by the natives, on the authority of tradition, to have been living in the same spots for centuries, and are supposed to vie in age with the most ancient trees of Europe. In removing some reefs, by means of divers, at the entrance of St. George s harbour, in the island of that name, evidences were found confirmatory of the idea that part of the former land of the Bermuda Islands has subsided, and is now below the sea. The islands have little elevation, and, in their general aspect, much resemble the W. India Islands. The climate is delightful, a perpetual spring clothing the fields and trees in perpetual verdure. Severe thunderstorms, however, frequently occur ; and when S. winds prevail, the atmosphere becomes charged with a humidity unfavourable to various complaints, including those of a pulmonary nature. Though the soil is not so fertile as it was, being now much exhausted, almost every descrip tion of fruit and vegetable grows here abundantly, and the arrow-root is said to be superior to that of any other place. The orange orchards of the islands are extending and improv ing; and generally more skill and industry has been applied to the clearing of land, and to cultivation, within the last few years than formerly. The quantity of live stock maintained is small, and the dairy produce sufficient only for the wants of the inhabitants. Domestic fowls are abundant, especially BERN 391 BERN ducks ; and during summer, numbers of turtle are taken. It is somewhat remarkable that there are neither springs nor fresh water streams in the islands, and only a few wells, the water of which is brackish. This want is supplied by collecting rain water in tanks, every house being provided with one, and the roofs being adapted as conductors. The adjoining seas are stored with various kinds of fish ; and many whales are taken in the season, which is between March and June. The flesh is sold in the markets, and eaten by the natives. The principal employment is building vessels, generally of cedar ; small, swift, and durable. Platting straw, and the mid-rib of the palmetto leaf, is also carried on to some extent. Principal exports: arrow-root, potatoes, and onions. The amount of imports into the Bermudas, for the year ending January 5, 1848, was 138,992, 16s. 9cL; exports for the same year, 20,205, 6s. 8d. The number and tonnage of vessels inwards, for the same period, were 185; tonn. 19,399 ; outwards, 189, tonn. 20,400. The number and tonnage of vessels belonging to the celony in the year named, were 52 ; tonn. 3372. The largest harbour is that of St. George s, a beautiful and ro mantic bay, capable of containing a large fleet, but of difficult ingress and egress, from the narrowness of its entrance, now, however, much improved. It is strongly fortified, and gen erally garrisoned by a regiment of the line, with some com panies of artillery and engineers. The legislature consists of a governor, council, and legislative assembly. The council is composed of eight members and a president, nominated by the governor, but subject to confirmation by the Crown ; the House of Assembly of 36 members, returned by the nine tribes or parishes into which the island is divided. The islands contain nine churches, five chapels for dissenters, and 24 public or free schools, principally supported by different so cieties in England, an; 1 , by funds under the control of the Bishop of Nova Scotia, in whose diocese the Bermudas are situated. There are, besides the above, 25 private schools. An establishment for convicts has recently been placed here. The number of the latter, in 1848, amounted to 1750. The computed cost of a convict to the public at the Bermuda establishment, including the expense of the passage out, and every other charge, is about 20 per annum; and the value of his labour, 33 per annum. The capital is Hamilton, on Ber muda or Long Island. Pop. (1848), estimated at from 9500 to about 11,000 whites, coloured, and free blacks. BERN, or BERNE (CANTON OP), the largest, and in rank, the second canton in the Swiss Confederation, one of the three vorort or directing cantons, situated in the W. of Switzerland, between lat. 46 19 and 47 30 N.; and Ion. 6 50 and 8 28 E.; bounded, N.W. by France; N. and N.E. by the cantons of Basel Country, Soleure, and Aargau ; E. by Luzern, Unterwalden, and Uri ; S. by the Valais ; S.W. by Vand ; and W. by Freiburg, and Neufchatel; greatest lengih, 83 m.; greatest breadth, 65 m. ; area, 2560 sq. m. The S. boundary of the canton is formed by the Bernese Alps, which include some of the highest summits of the alpine system. Among these are the Finster-Aarhorn, 14,111 ft; Jtingfrau, 13,718 ft.; Schreckhorn, 13,386 ft. ; the Monch, 13,498 ft., &c. Offsets from this mountain-range cover the S. part of the canton, and form the high country or Bernese Oberland, celebrated for the beauty of its valleys, the principal of which are, the Siminen, the Lauterbrunnen, the Grindelwald, and the Hasli. The N. part of the canton, separated from the S. by the valley of the Aar, bears the name of Leberberg or Jura country, from the moun tain-range that intersects it. This range is considerably lower than the Bernese Alps. Excepting a small portion on the French frontier, watered by the Doubs, the whole of the canton belongs to the basin of the Khine. The principal streams are, the Aar, and its tributaries, the E:nmen, Simmen, Kander, and Thiele. In the N.W., besides the Doubs, the canton is watered by the Suss and the Birs, with its affluent the Trame; the former falling into the Lake of Biel, and the latter into the Khine near Basel. The canton contains three considerable lakes, Biel in the basin of the Thiele, and those of Thun and Brienz, in the basin of the Aar. The climate is healthy, but rigorous in the alpine regions, where the incessant snows form extensive glaciers; and in some localities it is exposed to sudden changes, a warm day being frequently succeeded by a night of frost. In the valleys of the Thiele, the Emmen, and lower Aar, the temperature is much milder. The mountains of Bern are finely wooded with pine and ash ; the valleys are fertile, and yield good crops of grain, but not in sufficient quantity for the population. Hemp, and flax of good quality, are raised, and indifferent wine to a small extent, is grown in the neighbourhood of the lakes. But cattle form the principal wealth of the inhabitants ; the rich pastures of the canton ren dering it peculiarly well adapted for the rearing of cattle, of which, the breeds found in the vales of Emmen, and Sarine or Saane, are esteemed the best in Switzerland. The dairy produce of these valleys has a high reputation, the cheese being reckoned only second to that of Freiburg. The total cheese made in the canton, amounts to about 2500 tons annually. Bern is famed for its horses ; those of Emmenthal are exported in con siderable numbers to France, for draught and heavy-armed cavalry. The canton contains mines of iron, lead, and copper, with quarries of marble, gypsum, freestone, grindstones, granite, and limestone. Coal is also obtained, but in small quantities. Fine crystals are found among the quartz rocks of the Grimsel, and gold dust is met with in the sands of the rivers. Mineral springs are numerous, and the bathing establishments of Weis- senburg, Blumenstein, &c., are much frequented. In the mountain districts, the houses are generally of wood, but in the lowlands, and round Bern, of stone. The land, in general, is very much subdivided, from being equally partitioned among children, except in Emmenthal, where the youngest son in herits the patrimonial domain. The manufactures of the can ton are inconsiderable ; linen and woollen goods are made in the Emmenthal ; paper, leather, hardware, kirschwasser, fire arms, and agricultural implements are also made, and partly exported. Horses, cattle, and cheese, form the principal ex ports. The imports consist of salt, colonial produce, wine, grain, tobacco, metals, cotton, wool, silk, hemp, and flax. The transit of goods in the W. part of the canton, is much facilitated by the Aar and its tributaries, from which also a considerable quantity of fish are obtained. Schools and educational insti tutions are numerous. Attendance at school is obligatory. The contingent of troops furnished to the Confederation, is 5824 men, and the war contribution, 104,080 Swiss franks (5960), annually. The canton is divided into 28 administra tive sections or prefectures, the first magistrates of which are elected for six years by the executive council. The prefec tures are divided into political communes, whose boundaries frequently differ from those of the ecclesiastical communes or parishes. The tribunals are 1 . The supreme court, composed of 10 members, chosen for 15 years by the Grand Council, and a president chosen for five years. This is the high court of appeal, both for criminal and civil cases. 2. The district courts, 30 in number, one for each prefecture, and two each for the prefectures of Delemont or Delsperg, and Cerlier. Ecclesiastical affairs are under the direction of two ecclesias tical committees, one Protestant, the other R. Catholic. One- third of the vacant Protestant churches, are filled up by the executive council, and the other two-thirds by the seniority of the ministry. The first Protestant minister is the Dean of the Miinster or cathedral of Bern, capital of the canton. The R. Catholic part of the state belongs to the the bishopric of Basel, and is dependent on the vicar-general of Porrentrui. The canton of Bern has formed a portion of the Swiss Con federation since 1352. In 1798, it comprised a larger extent of territory, and was then divided into four cantons, Bern, Aargau, Lemar (which afterwards became the canton of Vaud), and Oberland, which was reunited to Bern in 1803. As an in demnification for its dismemberment, the Congress of Vienna, in 1815, added to it the town of Biel or Bienne, and the terri tory on ths W. side of the Thiele, which formed the greater part of the ancient bishopric of Basel, and was then possessed by France. "With exception of the inhabitants of this dis trict, who are of French extraction, the Bernese belong to the German stock, and speak German. The great majority are Protestants. Pop. (1837), 407,913. BERN [Latin, Hcrna, Arctopolis], a tn. Switzerland, cap. of above canton, and, alternately with Zurich and Luzern, seat of the federal government, and of the diet or vorort of the Swiss Confederation, 59 m. S.W. Zurich, 39 m. W.S.W. Luzern ; lat. (observatory) 46 57 6" N. ; Ion. 7 26 34" E. (L.) Height (at the observatory) above the level of the sea, 1912 ft. The town, situated on a sandstone promontory formed by the Aar, is bounded on three sides by the river, and on the fourth, the W. side, it is defended by fortifications. A magnificent stone bridge, 909 ft. long, and the central arch of which is 93 ft. BERN 392 BERNARD (LITTLE ST.) above the stream, here crosses the Aar, and supplies a level road between the town and the high bank on the opposite side. Bern is the handsomest town in Switzerland, and one of the most regularly built in Europe. It has the air of a metropolis, and is the reputed capital of the Confederation, being the residence of the ministers from all the foreign states, except the Papal nuncio, who resides at Luzern. The houses are substantially built of stone, and the streets are spacious; all of them are plentifully supplied with water by means of fountains, some of which are grotesque, others elegant, and many of the streets have a rapid stream of water running under the footpath. The principal street or Grande Hue, like a majority of the others, is steep, but it is also wide, and is adorned with many fountains; the houses are lofty and handsome, and built over arcades or covered piazzas, which line the street on either side, affording shade and shelter from summer s heat, and from winter s snows; though, from being neither high nor wide, they make the street look rather heavy and sombre. From the platform on which the cathedral stands, which is about 100 ft. above the river, a magnificent view of the Bernese Alps is obtained. Gardens, in terraces, hang upon the bank ; which, for a mile in length, presents a beautiful declivity, covered with fruit-trees, evergreens, and weeping willows. Beyond the river, the country presents a verdant and finely-diversified surface, sprinkled with - villages, houses, and cottages ; and, in the farther distance, is a vast range of mountains. The cathe dral is a fine Gothic structure, built between 1421 and 1502, with a spire 190 ft. high, but incomplete. The other public edifices are, the church du St. Esprit; the museum, containing an extensive collec tion of the natural productions of Switzerland ; the townhouse, a Gothic edifice of the 15th century ; the mint, where money is coined for several cantons; the extensive citizen-hospital (BurgerspitaT), the new prison and penitentiary, the Inselor island hospital, the corn market and corn magazine, for storing grain in case of scarcity ; the bank, and the state house. The university of Bern was founded in 1834, and has a full equipment of professors in all the different faculties and arts. There is also an academical lyceum, with 11 professors; a gymnasium, with 11 professors and masters ; a school of arts, with nine professors ; a school of painting and design, and a deaf and dumb institution. The public library con tains 35,000 volumes, and 1200 MSS. ; the medical library, 7000 volumes. Bern is celebrated for the number and excel lence of its charitable institutions ; and, in addition to the hos pitals, has two orphan asylums, an infirmary, lunatic asylum, and a fund for the aid of indigent students. It has also an observatory and a botanical garden. The chief manufactures are cloth, linen, cotton, and printed goods, clocks and watches, delicate mechanical and philosophical instruments, straw hats, leather, gunpowder, &c. The property belonging to the cor poration is very large ; and the revenue not only suffices to defray the public expenses, but to provide all the citizens with fuel, and still leaves a surplus. Bern owes its foundation to Bcrchtold, fifth Duke of Z;ih- ringcn ; who, in 1191, fortified the peninsula on which the town stands, and invited merchants and craftsmeii to resort thither for protection. In 1218, it was raised to the rank of a free town of the einpire, with extensive privileges. In 1353, it entered the Swiss Confederation, at that period consisting of seven cantons, and obtained the second rank. In 1798, Bern was obliged to open its gates to the republican armies of France, and the canton was dismembered From 1799 to 1803, it was the scat of the Helvetic Government. The government of Bern had hitherto been oligarchical, but, in 1830, the population threw off the rule of the privileged fami lies, and appointed a supreme council, which entered on its duties in October 1831. Bern is said to derive its name from liiren, the plural of the German word bar [a bear] ; and that animal figures on the armorial bearings of the town, as well as on the coins, sign-posts, fountains, and public buildings. For many centuries, living bears have been maintained at the public expense, as part of the state property. The great majority of the inhabitants of Bern are Protestants. Pop. 22.422, BERNARD (GREAT ST.), a celebrated pass of the Pen nine Alps, can. Yalais, on the mountain-road leading from Martigny in Switzerland to Aosta in Piedmont; lat. 45 51 N. ; Ion. 7 1 1 23" E. (r..) On the E. side of the pass is Mount Velan, and, on the \V., the Pointc de Dronaz ; there is no mountain known by the name of St. Bernard. Almost on the very crest of the pass is the famous Hospice, supposed to be the highest inhabited spot in Europe, 8200 ft. above the level of the sea. It is a massive stone building capable of accommodating 70 or 80 travellers with beds, and of shelter ing 300. As many as 500 or 600 have received assistance in one day. It is situated on the highest point of the pass, exposed to tremendous storms from the N.E. and S.W., and is tenanted by 10 or 12 brethren of the order of St. Augustine, who have devoted themselves by vow to the aid of travellers crossing the mountains. The climate of this high region is necessarily rigorous. There is a lake on the summit, at a short distance from the Hospice, on which ice has fre quently remained throughout the whole year. The severest CONVENT OF THE GREAT ST. HERNARD. From racliar&on t Sketches in Italy anil Switzerland. cold recorded is 29 below zero, Fah., but it has often been 18 and 20 below zero; the greatest summer heat recorded is 68 Fah. From the difficulty of respiration in so elevated a locality, and the severity of the climate, few of the monks survive the time of their vow, 15 years from the age of 18, when they are devoted to this service. They are driven, often with ruined health, to retire to the more genial climate of Martigny, where there is a branch establishment for the brethren who cannot live on the mountains. The dogs kept at St. Bernard, to assist the brethren in their humane labours, are well known. In the museum of Bern, the skin of one, called Barry, is preserved, who is recorded to have saved the lives of 15 human beings. In 1847, the revolutionary go vernment of Valais laid the monastery under the heavy forced contribution of 120,000 francs (4800), thereby much impair ing the resources of the establishment, and, according to a letter of the prior, written at the time, rendering its continu ance impossible. Subscriptions from various quarters have since been made, to enable the brethren to continue their benevolent labours. The pass of St. Bernard appears to have been known at a very early period ; and a pagan temple for merly stood here, from which a IJoman road led down the Picdmontcse side of the mountains. The remains of a massive pavement are still visible ; and the cabinet of the Hospice con tains votive tablets, bronze figures, and other antiquities, found in the vicinity. The Hospice was founded in 962, by Bernard de Menthon, a Savoyard nobleman, for the benefit of those who performed pilgrimages to Rome. In May 1 800, Napoleon led an army of 30,000 men, with its artillery and cavalry, into Italy by this pass. BERNARD (Lirn.E ST.), a mountain, Sardinian States, belonging to what are called the Grecian Alps, about 10 m. S. Mont Blanc. It stands between Savoy and Piedmont, BERNARDIN (ST.) BERTHOLSDORF having the valley of the Isere, in the former, on the W., and ( hat of the Doire, in tho latter, on the E. The pass across it is one of the easiest in the Alps, and is supposed to be that which Hannibal used. The Hospice, at the summit of the pass, has an elevation of 7192 ft. BERNARDIN (ST.), or BERNARDINO, a mountain, Switz erland, can. Orisons, over which a road, constructed at the joint expense of the Sardinian and Grison governments, leads from the Rheinwald into the valley of the Misocco, and forms one of the direct lines of communication, through Switzerland, between W. Germany and the N. of Italy. It leads to Lago Maggiore ; the pass of the Splugen departing from the same main road in Grisons, leading to Lago di Como. The summit of the pass is 7115 ft. above the sea, and is partly occupied by Lake Moesola, the source of the Moesa. On the S. slope stands the VILLAGE of St. Be.rnardin, a post station, the first and loftiest in the valley of the Misocco, consisting of a few houses on a small plain or ledge. It possesses a mineral spring, which is one of the highest in the Alps, and attracts a few visitors. BERNAU, a tn. Prussia, prov. Brandenburg, on the Planke, 14 m. N.E. Berlin. It is surrounded with walls and ditches ; has two churches, an ancient townhouse, and an hos pital. It has manufactures of silk, velvet, calicoes, linen, &c., and a number of breweries. Pop. 2850. Several other places in Germany and Bohemia have the same name. BERN AY, a tn. Prance, dep. Eure (Normandy), 25 m. W.N.W. Evreux, agreeably situated, r. bank, Charentonne. The grain market occupies part of an old abbey church, the remains of which are very curious and interesting. The church of St. Croix is distinguished by its large and magni ficent altar, and by marble statues and sculptures, brought from the abbey of Bee ; and the church of La Conture was formerly celebrated for being supposed to cure persons pos- Kessed with evil spirits, and is still visited by numerous devo tees. Bernay has also a communal college, an hospital, a court of first resort, a board of manufactures, an agricultural society, and a savings -bank. It has important manufactures of cloth, and flannel, tape, linen, and cotton goods ; and spins a good deal of cotton, thread, and worsted. It has also bleachfields, dyeworks, tanneries, &c. Trade: principally in grain, cider, cloth, iron, paper, leather, linen, horses, and cattle. The horse fair, held in Lent, is one of the greatest in France, and is attended by purchasers from all parts of the country, to procure post and diligence horses, for which Normandy has long been celebrated. Pop. 5490. I5ERNBURG-, or ANHALT-BERNBURG, a tn. Germany, cap. duchy of same name, on both sides of the Saale, in N. W. Leipzig, with which, as well as with Berlin and Magdeburg, it is connected by railway. It is divided into the old, the new, and the high town ; the first two surrounded by walls, and com municating by a bridge 173 ft. long. Bernburg is well built, and contains several well-paved and well-lighted streets. The principal building is the palace, situated, with a garden, on the highest part of the high town. It is very ancient, but has received numerous modern additions ; and contains a picture- gallery, theatre, and church. Among the other buildings and establishments are a townhouse, court-house, three Protestant churches and a chapel, a It. Catholic oratory, a synagogue, gymnasium, savings -bank, hospital, widow s asylum, bride well, and seven schools. Besides an oil-mill, and several breweries and distilleries, there are manufactures of paper and earthenware. Pop. 6772. The DUCHY, forming part of the country of Anhalt (which see), has an area of 256 geo. sq. m., is well wooded and well cultivated, and has made considerable progress in manufactures. The minerals include coal, copper, lead, silver, and iron, of which the last is the most important. Pop. 46,252. BERNE. See BERN. BERNECK, BERNEGG, or BERNANG, a vil. and par. Switzerland, can. of, and 1 1 m. E. St. Gall, pleasantly situated in the Rheirithal, and containing an ancient church, which is used in common by Protestants and R. Catholics. The cul ture of the vine, spinning, and knitting, are the chief employ ments. Pop. 2119. BERNECASTEL, or BERNCASTEL [anc. Bcronis Castel- lum], a tn. Prussia, prov. Lower Rhine, cap. circle of same name, r. bank, Moselle. It is a dirty town, but picturesquely situated at the base of the Hundsriick Mountains, 38 m. S. W. VOL. 1. Coblentz. The wines of the neighbourhood are celebrated. Bernecastel has several quarries, from which excellent grind stones are obtained, also a lead and a copper mine. Its com merce is considerable. Pop. 2100. The CIRCLE of the same name has an area of 210 geo. sq. m. It is very hilly, several of its highest points exceeding 2000 ft. About two- thirds of the surface are covered with wood. The hills are rich in minerals, particularly iron, lead, and copper, which are extensively worked ; and, along with the coal which is also found in the district, maintain numerous furnaces. Pop. 43,318. . BERNERA, a small isl. Scotland, the most S. of the Hebrides ; lat. (N. point) 57 43 N. ; Ion. 7 12 W. (R.) ; about 5 m. in circumference. The S.E. side is rocky, and frequented in the summer months by immense numbers of sea-fowl. The interior is fertile. It contains a quarry of granite, beautifully marbled, and of a very superior quality. A handsome lighthouse, built of this granite, has been erected here. The island is said to have been a sanctuary of the Druids, an entire circle of upright stones giving a plausibility to this belief. There are here the remains of two chapels, one dedicated to St. Asaph, the other to St. Columba. Pop. 30. BERNESTADT, or BERNSTADT, a tn. Prussia, prov. Silesia, r. bank, Wida, 24 m. E.N.E. Breslau. It is walled, has an old castle, two churches, a synagogue, an hospital, and manufactures of woollen cloth, linen, and leather. Pop. 3600. BERNIER S ISLAND, a small isl., W. Australia, at the entrance of Shark Bay ; lat. (Kok s Island, off N. point) 24 43 S. ; Ion. 113 T E. (R.) It is about 15 m. long by 3 to 5 broad. BERRE, a tn. and com. France, dep. Bouches-du-Rhoue, and 14 m. W.S.W. Aix, on the lagoon of same name. It is well built, but ill supplied with water, there being but one well in the town. The little port is safe and commodious, and carries on an active coasting trade in salt, chemical sub stances, oils, and fruit. Soda and chemical stuffs are manu factured. Pop. 1926. The LAGOON is about 12 m. long, by 7 broad, and communicates with the sea by the canals of Martignes and Tour-de-Bouc. It deposits on its shores large quantities of salt, the gathering of which gives a considerable amount of employment. The lagoon also abounds in fish. BERRI (LE), a former prov. of France, which, with the exception of the single arroncl. of St. Amand, belonging to the Bourbonnais, now forms the departments of Indre and Cher. BERRI AN, a vil., N. Africa, in the Sahara of Algiers, 25 m. E. Gardaia. It is walled, and has 250 to 300 houses, including some mosques and schools ; and has a little trade in grain. BERRIEDALE, or BERRYDALE, a small fishing hamlet and ness, or headland, Scotland, co. Caithness, par. Latheron. The VILLAGE is situated at the mouth of the Berriedale water, which rises in the mountains in the S. W. part of the parish, and is one of the most picturesque and romantic streams in Scot land. In the vicinity are the ruins of the ancient Castle of Berriedale. The NESS, or promontory, is about 2 m. S. by W. the village, and is in lat. 58 12 N. ; Ion. 3 30 W. This district gives the title of Lord Berriedale to the Earl of Caithness. BERRIEW, or ABEK-RIIIW, par.,N. Wales, Montgomery. Pop. 2259. BERRIMA, a tn. New S. Wales, co. Camden, 66 m. S.W. Sydney, on a remarkable bend of the flat which forms the channel of the Wingecarribbee river. Pop. 377. BERRIN, a tn., W. Africa, Senegambia, in the country of the Feloops, on the 1. bank of the Casamanza ; lat. 12 28 N. ; Ion. 16 28 W. BERRINGTON, par. Eng. Salop; 2920 ac. Pop. 651. BERROW, two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Somerset; 2310 ac. Pop. 578. 2, par. Worcester; 1940 ac. Pop. 480. BERRY HEAD, a promontory, England, co. Devon, S. point of Torbay; lat. 50 24 N. ; Ion. 3 28 W. (R.) BERRY-POMEROY, par. Eng.Devon;4610ac. P.1149. BERR YN-ARBOR, par. Eng. Devon ; 5050 ac. Pop. 899. BERSTED, par. Eng. Sussex ; 2750 ac. Pop. 2490. BERTHOLSDORF, a market tn. Austria, duchy, Lower Austria, on the railway between Vienna and Trieste. It lies among the hills between Brunn and Roclaun ; surrounded by j vineyards, and contains an ancient church, with a lofty tower, and a curious subterranean chapel. Behind it are the ruins I of an old castle, which was repeatedly occupied by dowager BERTHOUD 39 1 BERWICK-ON-TWEED princesses of the house of Hapsburg. Baths, and a swimming establishment, have recently been erected here. Pop. 2226. BERTHOUD. Su BURGDORF. BERT1NORO, a tn. Papal States, 7 m. S.E. Forli, on a hill, at the foot of which flows the Ronco. It is the seat of a bishopric, and has a cathedral, three parish churches, and five convents. The wine produced in the neighbourhood is highly esteemed. Pop. 4000. BEK VIE, BEUVY, or INVERBERVIE, a royal bor. and par. Scotland, coast of co. Kincardine. The town is 22 m. S.S. W. Aberdeen. It is irregularly built, and the only buildings worth mentioning are the parish church, an elegant Gothic structure; a Free church, commodious and substantial; a small Baptist chapel, and the townhall, also a good building. The ancient market cross is an object of interest; it is an octagon of six steps, surmounted by a column 12 or 14ft. high. The first flax spinning-mill in Scotland driven by in animate power was erected at Bervie, but was unsuccessful. There are now five small flax spinning-mills here, all driven wholly by water, excepting two, which have some auxiliary steam power. Collectively, they throw off about 4000 spindles of yam weekly, and employ about 100 hands. There are also a meal mill, and a small wool mill on the water of Bervie; the latter employing about 30 hands on the premises, carried j on by a firm principally in the hosiery trade, who employ out of doors, chiefly in Aberdeenshire, in the winter season, about 1300 women knitting hose; and in the summer season, about a third of that number. Tiles are likewise made here to a considerable extent. The staple trade of Bervie used to be handloom-weaving ; but it has declined very much of late, and now only about 60 looms are employed, by houses in Arbroath, Montrose, Brechin, and Aberdeen. The seaport of Bervie is Gourdon, about 1 m. distant, where the grain from the Howe of the Mearns is mostly shipped, amounting to about 30,000 qrs. annually, principally barley and oats, sent mostly to Glasgow. About 1 6 boats belong to Gourdon ; and during the herring fishery, about 40 boats fish here, manned by about 200 men. There is one fish-curing firm in the place, who send the fish to London and Glasgow. Bervie has long been famous for its smoked haddocks, known by the name of bervies. It unites with the Montrose district of burghs in returning a member to the House of Commons. The parish is about 2 m. in length, and 1 J in breadth. Pop. of burgh (1841), 864; of par. 478; total, 1342, which in cludes the vil. of Gourdon, containing 390 inhabitants. (Local Correspondent.) BERWICK, four pars. England:!, par. Sussex; 1250 ac. Pop. 199. 2, Berwick (St. James], par. Wilts; 2370 ac. Pop. 247. 3, Berwick (St. John), par. Wilts; 4230 ac. Pop. 419. 4, Berwick (St. Leonard), par. Wilts ; 970 ac. Pop. 41. BERWICK, a co. Scotland, forming the S.E. extremity of the kingdom, bounded, N. by co. Haddington, W. by cos. Edinburgh and Roxburgh, S. by the Tweed, and E. by the German Ocean ; area, 282,880 ac., of which, from a third to j a half are supposed to be arable. The Lammermoor range of , hills, varying in height from 630 ft. to 1500 ft., occupy the! N. parts of the county ; between these again and the Tweed is a tract of comparatively level country, called the Merse, one of the most fertile and best cultivated districts in Scotland. The farms here are in general large, and the farmers a wealthy and intelligent class of men. Handsome country seats and farm houses, with comfortable cottages, thickly distributed over the country, afford pleasing evidence of the prosperity that everywhere prevails. The E. part of the county is also hilly, and in many places broken up into deep, rugged gullies and ravines. The sea-coast is bold and rocky, and of irregular outline, curving into bays, and winding round numerous pro montories, of which the most remarkable is St. Abb s Head. Wheat and turnips are the great objects of culture, but barley and oats are raised in large quantities ; beans also are culti vated to a considerable extent. Many improvements have been effected during the last 20 years, by the more complete drainage of the land, the adoption of rotations better suited to its varying capacities, the introduction of bone manure, tlu: culture of waste land, &c. The horses are principally of the Clydesdale breed, and in general strong and active. Cattle, a mixed breed, latterly improved by the introduction of short- horned bulls. In the Merse, the sheep are principally long- J woolled ; in the Lammermoor hills, the Cheviots have been ! extensively introduced ; but in the bleak parts of the country, the black-faced breed keep their ground. The stock of sheeji lias been estimated at about 115,000. Average rent of land in 1842-43, 16s. 9|d an ac. The principal river connected with the county is the Tweed, which is here a beautiful and majestic stream. There are a number of smaller rivers, amongst which are the Whitadder, Blackadder, and Leader, all well stored with trout. There is only one lake in the county, Coldingham Loch, a small sheet of water, covering about 30 ac. The county is all but purely agricultural, the majority of its population subsisting by its pursuits, and the various arts connected with them ; almost the only excep tion is found in the bleak, hilly district of Lammermoor, which, being unfit for any other purpose, is appropriated to the grazing of sheep. Interesting remains of antiquity are numerous in this county, every parish containing old castles, towers, abbeys, priories, &c., with many tumuli, cairns, &c. The county contains 33 parishes, and has Greenlaw for its capital ; it returns one member to Parliament. Registered electors in 1849, 1050. Pop. (1851), 36,297. BERWICK (NORTH), a royal burgh, seaport, and par. Scotland, co. Haddington. The town is situated on a small bay, near the base of a beautiful conical hill, 940 ft. in height, called N. Berwick Law, at the S. entrance to the Frith of Forth, 21 m. N.E. Edinburgh; lat. 46 14 N.; Ion. 2 41 W. It is built on a sandy plain, and consists chiefly of two principal streets, straight, and well kept, running nearly at right angles to each other ; and one of which is adorned with a row of fine plane-trees. The houses are mostly plain, and are built of hard trap rock. They are generally old, and have a weather-beaten appearance ; but of late years, some handsome houses have been erected to the E. and W. of the town. The supply of water is obtained from springs, and is generally much impregnated with lime. The churches are, the parish church, cruciform, built in 1670; a Free church, and a U. Presbyterian church. Schools the parochial, burgh, and two private schools, none of them very numerously at tended. The harbour is small, but of easy access. Its coasting trade, which was at one time considerable, is now altogether extinguished by the railways. Of late years the town has come into some repute as bathing quarters ; and a number of the inhabitants depend, to a considerable extent, on letting portions of their houses to summer visitors. About a quarter of a mile W. from the town, are the ruins of the abbey of North Berwick, beautifully situated on the summit of a gentle elevation. The town forms one of the Haddiugton district of burghs, which return a member to Parliament. Pop. (burgh and par.) in 1841, 1708. (Local Correspondent.) BERWICK-ON-TWEED, a port, bor., market tn., par., and co. of itself, England, on a gentle acclivity, 1. bank, Tweed, near its confluence with the sea, 48 m. S.E. Edinburgh, and 300 N. by W. London; lat. (lighthouse) 55 46 12" N.; Ion. 2 W. (R.) It occupies an area of nearly 2 m. in circumfer ence, and is surrounded by fortified walls 1 J m. in circuit, formed of earth, and faced with stone, along which is an agreeable promenade. The streets are for the most part narrow, steep, straggling, and irregular; but some of the principal ones are wide, and open. Houses chiefly of stone, and well built ; supply of water indifferent, and the quality often objectionable ; lighted with gas by two companies, an old and new. There are altogether 12 churches in the town, namely, the parish church, four U. Presbyterian, an Inde pendent, a Baptist, one in connection with the Church of Scotland, one with the English Presbyterian, a Wesleyan, ;\ Primitive Methodist, and a R. Catholic. The schools are: the corporation academy, for the education of the children of burgesses, no others being admissible, conducted by a rector, with three male and three female teachers, and managed by the town council ; a classical academy, the management of which is vested in 21 trustees, appointed by the Lord Chan cellor ; a charity school, founded in 1725; a school of industry, established in 1819; and an infant school, the workhouae, and various private schools. The principal public buildings are: the townhall, erected between 1750 and 1760, a hand some modern freestone structure, with a beautiful portico of the Tuscan order, and a spire 150 ft. high; the barracks for infantry, built of stone, in the form of a quadrangle, capable of accommodating upwards of 600 men ; the parish church, a commodious building, without a spire, having been built in CERZOCANA DE SAN FULGENCIO 395 BESSARABIA the time of the Puritans ; a prison, finished in 1850, affording accommodation for 12 prisoners, and containing, besides, a room in which the petty sessions are held ; a chapel, &c. Thee Tweed is crossed at the town by a bridge of 15 arches, mea suring 1164 ft. in length, and only 17 ft. in width, commenced in the reign of James I. ; and by a magnificent railway viaduct, considered to be the largest stone bridge in the kingdom, con sisting of 28 semicircular arches, each 61 ft. 6 inches in span. Of literary and benevolent institutions, Berwick has a natur alists club, a public subscription library, established in 1812 ; and a dispensary, combining the advantages of an infirmary. The only manufactures carried on, and these but to a small extent, are linen, sack and sail cloth, ropes, hosiery, carpets, and hats. The river is navigable to the bridge only, though the tide flows for several miles beyond it. The harbour, which is naturally inconvenient, has been recently deepened several feet, and the shipping trade of the place thereby much improved, large steamers and other vessels now superseding the smacks and small craft by which the traffic of the port was formerly exclusively carried on. The number of vessels registered at Berwick-on-Tweed, for the year ending December 31, 1847, was 251 ; tonn. 17,219. The number and tonnage entered for the same period, was 995 ; tonn. 53,859. Cleared, 553 ; tonn. 39,082. The chief exports are salmon, of which great quantities are caught in the Tweed, and mostly sent to London, packed in ice ; cod, haddocks, herrings, corn, wool, and coal. The imports timber-deals, staves, iron, hemp, tallow, and bones for manure. In the beginning of the, l 2th century, during the reign of Alexander I., Berwick was part of his realm of Scotland, and the capital of the district called Lothian. Soon after this date, it became populous and wealthy; was the chief seaport of Scotland, contained a strong castle, with churches, hospitals, and monastic buildings, and was created one of the four royal burghs of Scotland. In 1216, the town and castle were stormed and taken by King John. During the competition between Baliol and Bruce for the Scottish throne, the English Parliament sat in Berwick ; and in the hall of the castle, Edward I. pronounced judgment in favour of Baliol. Bruce retook the town and castle in 1318; but, after undergoing various sieges and vicissitudes, both were surrendered to Edward IV. in 1482, and have ever since remained in pos session of England. By 6 and 7 Will. IV., Berwick is consti tuted a county of itself to all intents and purposes (excepting the return of members of Parliament). Pop. of par. (1849), 9000 ; or for the entire parliamentary and municipal bor. 13,800. (Local Correspondent.} BERZOCAXADE SAN FULGENCIO, a tn. Spain, Estre madura, prov. Caceres, 6 m. N.E. Logrosan, on the borders of New Castile. It has spacious, clean, and paved streets, a parish church, endowed school, townhall, storehouse, several fountains, and a cemetery. The inhabitants are almost ex clusively engaged in agriculture, and in rearing goats, pigs, horned cattle, and a few sheep. Pop. 2026. BESALU, a tn. Spain, Catalonia, prov. of, and 15 m. N. by W. Gerona, in a plain, between the river Fluvia and the brook Campellada. It has two squares, two churches, an endowed school, townhouse, prison, and a public fountain. The inhabitants, engaged in agriculture and as carriers, also spin and weave cotton. Pop. 2012. BESANCON [anc. Vcsontio], a fortified tn. France, cap. of dep. Doubs, and of the sixth military division of the kingdom, 206 m. S.E. Paris ; lat. (citadel) 47 13 46" N. ; Ion. go 2 i9 E ( L _) j t is a g reea biy situated at the extremity of a valley watered by the Doubs, which almost surrounds the town, and divides it into two parts. These communicate with each other by a stone bridge, part of which is a Roman struc ture of large blocks, and part a modern erection, for the pur pose of enlarging the roadway. The town is surrounded by hills covered with vineyards. The isthmus or peninsula, on which it is built, is composed of a mass of rocks crowned by the citadel, which commands the country towards the N. ; but the citadel itself is commanded by several eminences in the neighbourhood, on which forts have been erected for the pur pose of securing the approaches. Besancon, which is a forti fied place of the first class, and one of the strongest towns in France, is also considered to be one of the best built. Within the walls it contains 1455 houses, all built of hewn stone, two or three stories high, and ornamented with balconies. The streets are spacious and well laid out, and the squares, which are of considerable extent, are adorned with fountains. A splendid promenade is formed, within the town, on the banks of two branches of the Doubs. The public buildings are, the cathedral, and three other churches (containing some fine pictures and sculptures), the hospital, the hotel of the prefecture, the college, the palace of justice, and the citadel, which is one of Vauban s finest works. There are also a theatre, and a public library containing 50,000 volumes and some valuable manuscripts ; and an aqueduct, cut in the rock by the Romans in the second century, and called now Porte Taille e. The celebrated architect Paris bequeathed to his native town, BesanQon, a collection of antiquities, pictures, drawings, books, and other objects of rarity, now forming a museum here. In the environs are the splendid ruins of the castle of Montfaucon, supposed to have been built by Louis XI. BesanQon is the seat of a royal court for the de partments of Doubs, Jura, and the Haute Saone ; of a court of first resort and of commerce ; and of an archbishop. It like wise has a school of artillery, academy of arts and sciences, royal college, agricultural and medical societies, deaf and dumb institution, and grand seminary. Previous to the j Revolution of 1793, it was the capital of the Franche-comte; | had a parliament, university, mint, eight parishes, two chap- I ters, a college, and 13 convents or abbeys. Besan9on car- I ries on a considerable trade, especially with Switzerland ; the principal articles are, wine, brandy, liqueurs, vinegar, salt, drapery, clocks, and watches ; files, "iron, chains, nails, horses, cattle, grain, butter, cheese, &c. ; and manufactures carpets, hats, stoves, ironmongery, printing-presses, coach-springs, stained papers, artificial flowers, liqueurs, and mustard. It has also extensive foundries, breweries, and tanneries. Watch making is the principal trade. It was introduced from Switz erland about 50 years ago, and employs 2000 workmen, who work principally at their own houses. About 600,000 bottles of artificial Seltzer water are made here annually. The origin of the town is too remote to be traced. Julius Caesar entered it 56 years before the Christian era, and men tions it in his Gallic War as a place of great extent and natural strength. Louis XIV. besieged and took it in 1660 ; and by the treaty of Nijrnegen its possession was secured to France, along with the rest of the Franche-comte. In 1495, a council was held here under Charles of Neufchatel. Pop. (1846), 27,854. BESHEK, or BELSCHIK [anc. Bolbe], a lake, Turkey, Macedonia, a little E. of the Gulf of Contessa, into which it pours its superfluous waters, and about 20 m. E. Salonica ; greatest length, E. to W., about 14 m. ; greatest breadth, 4 m. To the N. it is bounded by a chain of mountains stretching E. and W., and the scenery in its neighbourhood is very mag nificent, bearing some resemblance to that of Switzerland. Various kinds of fish are found in the lake. On its N. shore are the two villages of Greater and Lesser Beshek, both beauti- I fully situated ; the former on the water edge ; the latter, and larger of the two, on a promontory jutting into it, with lofty hills behind, covered to their summit with olive- trees. BESIGHEIM, a tn. Wiirtemberg, 15 m. N. Stuttgardt, on a rocky tongue of land, at the junction of Enz with the Neckar. It has two Roman towers, and is walled. On the Schalkstein, a hill hard by, the best wines on the Neckar are produced. Pop. 2412. BESNI, a tn. Turkey in Asia, pash. Marash, 38 m. W.N. W. Sumeisat. It is 2340 ft. above the level of the sea, but, being pent up in a narrow limestone glen, and having neither trees nor gardens within it, is hot and unhealthy in summer. It contains 2500 houses of Mahometans, and 250 of Armenians, clustering round the castle, which stands on the summit of a | cliff, and is in a very ruinous condition. There is a tolerable bazaar. BESOEKT. See BEZOEKI. BESSARABIA, once the E. division of Moldavia, now the most S.W. gov. of European Russia; bounded, S. by the Danube, N. and E. by the Dniester and the Black Sea, W. by the Pruth, which separates it from Moldavia, and by the Buckowina, part of Austrian Galicia. It thus forms, between two rivers, a strip of territory 372 m. long by 50 of medium breadth ; area, 14,256 geo. sq. m. On nearing the maritime borders, it gradually widens, and naturally divides itself into two portions. The portion named by the Tartars Budjak t BESSASTAD1R 396 BETHLEHEM I* composed of a flat, reaching to the sea-shore, between the mouths of the Danube and the lower course of the Dniester, and lias the common aspect of the Russian steppes, being chiefly suited to the breeding of stock. The N. portion pre sents a hilly country, beautifully undulated, covered with noble forests, and extremely fertile. The climate is in general mild, salubrious, and agreeable ; the grape, the finer kinds of fruit, and melons, growing in the open air. The chief mineral product is salt, obtained from lakes in the Budjak. Saltpetre, coal, alabaster, marble, and lime, are also found. Bessarabia is divided into six districts Ismael, Akermann, Bender, Kichinev, Khotin, and Yassy. In the Budjak territory are met Russians, Cossacks, Ger mans, Jews, Bulgarians, Swiss vine- dressers, Gipsies, with Greek and Armenian traders. The N. part of the province, again, is almost entirely inhabited by the Moldavian race, the line of their villages extending along the Dniester, to near Akermann. Bessarabia was the fairest and most productive portion of Moldavia at the beginning of this century, and perhaps has more capabilities, natural and commercial, than any portion of the Russian empire of the same extent. Yet, till very re cent years, it has been strangely neglected, being poorly cul tivated, and in many places almost deserted. The Russian Government has established, in different parts of the territory, colonies of Bulgarians, Germans, Cossacks, and even some heretofore wandering Gipsy tribes. The people of Bessarabia are essentially agricultural, few of them take to trades ; the few of these that exist in the country, are entirely of the do mestic kind. Of what is understood by the term manufactures, there are none. The Moldavian peasants are generally frank, cheerful, and hospitable; but are said by the Russians to be indolent. Hommaire de Hell, however, asserts that in the Moldavian villages the houses are usually kept in the neatest order, and generally surrounded with gardens and fruitful orchards. Bessarabia once formed the E. district of the Roman pro vince of Dacia. After various vicissitudes consequent upon the fall of that empire, it was invaded by the Asiatic Turks, and became a portion of European Turkey. It was ceded to the Russians by the treaty of Bucharest in 1812. At first, the Bessarabians were allowed to retain their peculiar laws and privileges undisturbed ; but misunderstand ings soon arose, and since 1829, the administrative institutions of the country have been assimilated tD those of the rest of the empire. P. (1850), 808,000. BESSASTADIR [Danish, Bessastad], a vil. and church, S.W.coastof Iceland, dist. Gullubringu-Syssel, on a promontory, opposite to, and about 3 m. S.W. Reikiavik, to which the school formerly possessed by Bessastadir has been recently removed. (Baggesen.) BESSE, several small tns. France, particularly: 1, Besse-sur-Braye, dep. Sarthe, 7 m. S. St. Calais, r. bank, Braye. It has manufactures of coarse cottons, paper, and wax candles. Pop. 1195. 2, Besse, dep. Puy -de-Dome, on the Couse, 17m. W. Issoire. It lies in the midst of a mountainous district, and is built on an immense mass of basaltic lava. All the houses are built of the same material, and have in consequence a gloomy appearance. An ancient building in the town, of a circular form, has been supposed to be the remains of a temple of the sun, but is more probably only a bap tistery. In the neighbourhood there is an acidulated spring. Pop. 996. BESSELSLEIGH, par. Eng. Berks; 980 ac. Pop. 106. BESSIXGBY, r ar Eng. York, E. Riding; 1230 ac. P.66. BESSIXGHAM, or BASSINGHAM, par. Eng. Norfolk; 410ao. Pop. 139. BESSUNGEN. See DARMSTADT. BESTIIORPE, par. Eng. Norfolk; 2440 ac. Pop. 536. BET AN IM EXES, a maritime dist. Madagascar, E. coast, extending between lat. 18 30 and 20 S. It is watered by several rivers, and contains two considerable towns, Devour- ante and Manooroo, both of which are situated on the coast, at the mouths of rivers bearing, respectively, the same names. BETANZOS, a city, Spain, Galicia, prov. of, and 12 m. S.E. Coruna, on an eminence, at the base of which flow the rivers Mandeu and Mendo, subsequently uniting to the N. The houses are well built and commodious, forming several steep, but clean streets ; and the square, or Campo de la Feria, contains a handsome edifice, once used as a depository for the archives of Galicia, but now converted into a barrack. Here are also two parish churches, several chapels, a hand some townhall, hospital, two endowed schools, two suppressed convents, and an Augustine monastery, on the bank of the Mcndo, near the old bridge. Linen fabrics, earthenware, leather, and bread, are manufactured; considerable quantities of the latter article being exported to Coruiia. An annual cattle fair is held in May. Pop. 4210. BETCH WORTH, or BEACHWORTH, par. Eng. Surrey; 3660 ac. Pop. 1140. BETHANIA, or BETHANY, a tn. Syria, about 2 m. S.E. Jerusalem, on the way to Jericho. It is now a mean village, inhabited by a few Turkish families, by whom it is called Lazari, in memory of Lazarus, who dwelt here, and who was here raised from the dead. The inhabitants of the village show the pretended sites of the houses of Lazarus, of Martha, of Simon the leper, and of Mary Magdalene. The alleged tomb of Lazarus, a large excavation in the rock, is also shown to the credulous. The situation of Bethania is extremely picturesque. BETHERSDEN, par. Eng. Kent; 6410 ac. Pop. 1011. BETH-HORON (UPPER and LOWER), or BEIT-UR .EL- FOKA, and BEIT-UK EI.-TAIITA, two vils. Palestine, pash. Gaza, about 9 m. N. W. Jerusalem. They are small, but exhibit traces of ancient walls and foundations. They were both fortified by Solomon. The one stands on the side, and the other at the bottom of a hill, and between them is the pass of Beth-horon, which still, as in ancient times, is the great thoroughfare between the sea-coast and Jerusalem. BETHLEHEM, a tn. Syria, honoured above all other towns, in having been made the birthplace of our Saviour. It stands 6 m. S.W. Jerusalem, on an eminence, surrounded by small valleys, or depressions, covered with vine and olive- yards. Half the town is in ruins, and the other half consists of houses irregularly huddled together. These, though not large, are solidly built; and several of the streets are entered by gates. The convent, which is separated from the town by a platform, crowns au E. slope, and is occupied by three sets of monks, Greek, Armenian, and Latin. The church called TUB PRINCIPAL STREET, BETHLEHEM From Slajtr 8 Views in Palestine. St. Mary of Bethlehem, or the Church of the Nativity, was built by Helen, the mother of Constantino the Great, and is said to stand on the spot where our Saviour was born. It is a structure of considerable grandeur, though of irregular architecture. The roof, which is of a moderate height, is supported by a double row of marble Corinthian columns. The floor also is of marble, and both the walls and ceiling are covered with half-faded pictures, and representations of Mosaic, apparently of great antiquity. Beneath the chancel is a cave, which is entered from above by a flight of steps, and is shown by the monks as the Cave of the Nativity. An inscription bears, Hie de Virgins Maria Jesus Christus natus est Here Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin Mary. BETHLEHEM 397 BEUTHEN The chief occupation of the inhabitants is in making cruci fixes, chaplets, &c., for pilgrims. Pop. 3000. BETHLEHEM, a tn., U. States, Pennsylvania, 1. bank, Lehigh, at the mouth of Manskicy Creek, 48 in. N.N. W. Phil adelphia. It has a commanding appearance, being built on ground which gradually rises from the river and creek. It consists of a compact street running N. and S., and two others running E. from it. It has a large Gothic church, with a small tower rising from the centre, and surmounted by a dome. The burying ground, E. of the town, is laid out with great elegance and taste. A bridge over the Lehigh is 400 ft. long, and the Lehigh Canal passes along the river through the lower part of the town. It has likewise a celebrated female school, conducted by the Moravians ; by which community of Moravians it was settled under Count Zinzendorf, in 1741. Pop. (1840), 2989. BETHNAL GREEN, par. Eng. Middlesex, and one of E. suburbs of London ; area, 760 ac. Pop. 74,088. (See LONDON.) BETHSHAN, or BETHSHEAN [Greek, Scijthopolis ; mo dern, Beisun], a vil. Palestine, pash. Damascus, 20 m. S.E. Nazareth, on a height a little above r. bank, Jordan. It was anciently a place of importance, as indicated by the extensive ruins, both of the city itself, and of its acropolis, which stood on a lofty circular hill. At present it is only a village, contain ing 70 or 80 houses, occupied by inhabitants who have made themselves somewhat notorious by fanaticism and lawless demeanour. BETH8HEMESH, or Am SHEWS, anciently a city, Palestine, about 15 m. W.S.W. Jerusalem. It stood in a fine deep valley, and is repeatedly mentioned in Scripture as a place of importance. At present its site is merely marked by a ruin. BETHUNE, atn. France, dep. Pas de Calais, cap. arrond. of same name, 19 m. N.N.W. Arras. It stands on a rock washed by the Brette, and is a place of considerable strength, ranking as a fortress of the second class. It is nearly in the form of a triangle, one of the angles of which is occupied by the castle, built by Vauban. The appearance of the town is not prepossessing. The houses are ill built, and the streets are bad. There is, however, one fine square, the centre of which is occupied by an ancient belfry of remarkable con struction, while the Hotel de Ville, among the best edifices in the town, forms one of its sides. There are two parish churches. The nave of one of them is remarkable for the elegance and lightness of the pillars which support its roof. The chief manufactures are oil, soap, and cloth. There are also distilleries, tanneries, and salt and sugar-refineries. The trade, including corn, wine, brandy, oil-seeds, cheese, linen, and earthenware, is greatly favoured by the canals of Lawe and Basse e, which meet here, and form a fine basin. A native of Bethune is said to have invented Artesian wells, which are common in the town, and supply several fountains of excellent water. The family of the Lords of Bethune is very cele brated, and a branch of it was established in Scotland about the end of the 12th century. To this branch the persecutor, Cardinal Beaton, belonged. Pop. 7 1 50. The ARRONDIPSE- MENT has an area of 200 sq. m., and is subdivided into eight cantons. Pop. 131,973. BETLEY, par. Eng. Stafford; 1480 ac. Pop. 884. BETLIS, BEDIJS, BIDLIS, BITLIS, and BITTIS, a tn. Turk ish Armenia, about 20 m. W. Lake Van. It is one of the most ancient cities of Kurdistan, situated in a wide ravine, traversed by a stream, on whose steep banks the town is built. The houses are of red stone, generally two stories in height, with grated windows to the streets. In the centre of the town, on a high rock, is an ancient castle, formerly the resi dence of the Khans of Betlis. The town contains several caravansaries, a number of mosques, nine churches, and three baths. The country around is fertile, well cultivated, and produces excellent crops of grain, cotton, hemp, rice, olives, tobacco of the best description, and a variety of fruits and vegetables of superior quality. Game is plentiful in the neighbourhood, and on the surrounding hills are numbers of lions, wolves, and bears. The principal manufactures of the town are of coarse cotton cloth and tobacco, the greater part of the latter being sent to Erzeroom and Constantinople, where it is much esteemed. The inhabitants consist of Turks, Kurds, and Armenians. Pop. 10,000. BET8ILEO, a prov. Madagascar, in the interior of the S. part of the island, divided into N. and S. Betsileo. Having a great extent of excellent pasturage, it produces vast num bers of cattle, sheep, goats, and pigs. The scenery is pic turesque, and the indications of volcanic action numerous and distinct. Saline springs are of frequent occurrence. The inhabitants of this district are so attached to the place of their nativity, that they seldom leave it ; they are of a warlike disposition, but false and treacherous. BETSIMSARAKA, a maritime prov. Madagascar, E. coast, between lat. 16 45 and 18 S. It is, in general, flat towards the sea, and mountainous as it approaches the in terior ; in some places it is swampy, and covered with thickets and forests, but in others it presents abundance of grazing land, and is covered with numerous herds of cattle belonging to the Queen, and a few also to the inhabitants. Several fine lakes exist in this province, forming a series along the coast of upwards of 100 m. in extent. The soil is fertile, and the country to some extent brought under cultivation. The crops, however, are often much damaged, and not unfiequently alto gether destroyed, by the herds of wild pigs with which the neighbouring provinces are infested. The N. part of this dis trict is celebrated for the growth of roots. Rice is also cul tivated to a great extent, as well as other grain. The principal trading ports are Foule Pointe, Tenerif, and Tamtave. BETTALA. See BATTALAH. BETTESHANGER, or BETSHANGER, par. Eng. Kent ; 370 ac. Pop. 18. BETTISCOMBE, par. Eng. Dorset ; 1810 ac. Pop. 53. BETTOLA (SAN GIOVANNI DE), a tn. and com. Italy, duchy of, and 20 m. S. by W. Piacenza, 1. bank, Nure. It contains a church, and a school for both sexes. The vicinity is fertile, but not wholly cultivated. The low marsh land on the r. bank of the river is much infested by snakes. Pop. 6608. BETTUS, par. Eng. Salop ; 8500 ac. Pop. 452. BETTWS, numerous pars. Wales: 1. Bettws-yn-rhos, or Bettws-abergeley, par. Denbigh. Pop. 911. 2, Bettws, par. Carmarthen. Pop. 1109. 3, Bettws, par. Glamorgan. Pop. 438. 4, Bettws, par. Montgomery; 7000 ac. Pop. 821. 5, Bethos-bleddrws, par. Cardigan. Pop. 227. 6, Bettws-dyro, par. Radnor. Pop. 218. 7, Bettws-diserth, par. Radnor; 1800 ac. Pop. 132. 8, Bettws-garmon, par. Carnarvon. Pop. 111. 9, Bettws-gwerJ ijl-gocli, par. Merioneth. Pop. 279. 1 0, Bettivs-jevan, or Evan, par. Cardigan. Pop. 426. 11, Bettws-newydd, par. Monmouth; 1200 ac. Pop. 106. 12, Bettws -y-coed, par. Carnarvon. Pop. 451. BEUNINGEN, a vil. Holland, prov. Gelderland, 3 m. W. by N. Nijmegen; with a R. Catholic and a Protestant church, a school, and 800 inhabitants, chiefly engaged in agri culture. BEUSICHEM, a vil. Holland, prov. Gelderland, 7 m. N.W. Thiel, near 1. bank, Leek. It is an old, nice-looking village, with the church (founded in the middle of the 10th century) placed in a large open space, planted with linden- trees. It has, likewise, a school ; and in the vicinity, across the Leek, formerly stood the old castle of Beusichem. In the month of June a market is held, celebrated for its horses and stallions. Pop. 900. BEUTELSBACH, a tn. Wiirtemberg, circle, Jaxt, on the Beutelsbach. It contains an ancient church, and a castle, which was the original seat of the Wurtemberg family. Pop. 1850. BEUTHEN. 1, Beutlien, or Butom, a tn. Prussia, gov. of, and 46 m. S.E. Oppeln, cap. circle of same name, contain ing two churches, a synagogue, townhouse, and hospital. Pop. 4400. The CIRCLE, which has an area of 226 geo. sq. m., is intersected by ridges of clay, but has a good deal of fertile loam, inclining, in the N. and E., to sand. Among the hills, the Trockenberg is particularly remarkable for its mineral riches. The principal rivers are the Malapane, Brinnitze, Stola, and Klodnitz. The chief minerals are, argentiferous lead, calamine, iron, marble, alum, and millstones. The lan guage almost universally spoken is Polish. Pop. 69,000. 2, A tn. Prussian Silesia, gov. Liegnitz, 1. bank, Oder, 11 m. below Glogau. It contains a palace, two parish churches (a R. Catholic and a Protestant), two schools, a townhouse, and an hospital. There is a garrison ; and several public offices have their seat here. The inhabitants are chiefly employed BEVAGNA 393 BEVERWIJK in making earthenware and straw-plait, and in boatbuilding. Pop. 3200. BEVAGNA [anc. Mevania], a vil. Papal States, 17 m. S.E. Perugia, on the Maroggia, a tributary of the Tiber. It suffered much by an earthquake in 1832. In the neighbour hood an excellent wine is grown. BEVEDEHO, a considerable lake, La Plata, prov. or state, Mendoza, between lat. 32 45 and 34 17 S., and Ion. 66 and 66 32 W. It is composed of two distinct portions, called sometimes the Greater and the Less Bevedero, con nected by a river channel about 8 m. long. The smallest, and most N., measures about 22 m. by 15 in. ; and the larger, which is very irregular in form, though somewhat triangular, measures 40 m. N. to S., and from 3 or 4 m. to 25 m. E. to W. This lake is the reservoir of the waters flowing E. from the Andes, between lat. 31 and 34 S. Through the Desagua- dero, it receives the waters of the rivers Mendoza and San Juan, and the lakes Guanacache and Silvero, besides numerous extensive morasses. The other principal affluent is the. river Tunuyan, which enters it by numerous arms. The lake, has no outlet. BEVEL AND (NOORD), or NORTH BEVEL AND, a river isl. Holland, prov. Zeeland, forming part of the delta of the Scheldt. It is isolated from Schouwen, Duiveland, and Tholen, by the E. Scheldt ; from Zuid or South Beveland and Wol- faartsdyk it is parted by the Zuid-Vliet ; and from Walcheren by the Sloe. N. Beveland is 11 in. long, by 5 broad at its widest part. The lands here are tolerably fertile, and produce corn and madder ; and much stock is raised on the grazing flats. It was entirely submerged in the year 1532, and a considerable number of the inhabitants drowned. The soil was not recovered for many years. Pop. 4800. BEVELAND (Zuio, or SOUTH), a river isl. Holland, the largest and most fertile in prov. S. Zeeland. It is situated at the parting of the E. and W. Scheldt, and is separated from Walcheren by the Sloe, and from Wolfaartsdyk by a narrow canal. The entire length of S. Beveland is 25 m., its greatest breadth about llm. This district, too, suffered an inunda tion, though not so complete as that of N. Beveland, in 1532 ; it suffered greatly from floods again, Jan. 14 and 15, 1808. It is now a very productive territory, especially in wheat, esteemed the best grown in Holland ; much vegetables and madder are also grown, and butter and cheese made. It is well covered with underwood, and has some good orchards and nursery gardens. Fish are caught in abundance near the coast. The capital is Goes, N. side of the island. Pop. 23,000 BEVERCOATES, par. Eng. Notts ; 790 ac. Pop. 44. BEVEREN. 1, A tn. and com. Belgium, prov. E. Flan ders, about 6 m. W. Antwerp, on the road between Ghent and Antwerp. It has a fine church, built of white stone, with a lofty pyramidal tower ; from the top of which is a fine view over the Waes territory. This church contains the tomb of Adolphus of Burgundy, Lord of Beveren, who died in 1540, and also several tolerable pictures. In the town there are breweries, tanneries, dyeworks, tobacco-factories, and exten sive manufactures of lace, employing about 2000 women Pop. 6566. 2, A tn. and com. Belgium, W. Flanders, in which aro a brewery and brickworks. Pop. 2996. BEVERLEY, a vil. and township, U. States, Massa chusetts, 16 m. N.E. Boston. N. of it is Salem, with which it is connected by a bridge 1500 ft. long. It has considerable manufactures, but the inhabitants are chiefly employed in com merce and the fisheries. The village contains four churches (two Congregational, one Baptist, and one Unitarian), an academy, and 10 schools; a bank and an insurance office. Pop. 4689. BEVERLEY, a market tn. and bor. England, co. York, cap. E. Riding, 27 m. E.S.E. York, at the foot and E. edge of the chalk range of the Yorkshire Wolds, and on the Hull to Bridlington branch of the York and N. Midland Railway. It consists of one continuous street, bearing various names, and upwards of a mile in length, and of 13 smaller streets, some of which, however, are spacious, and not inelegant. The streets are all paved with boulders, called cobbles; and the principal ones have flagged footways, and are kept ex tremely clean. The houses are mostly of brick, and are irregular as to height and dimensions. Water is supplied by pumps and deep wells, or borings in the chalk, below the gravel on which the town stands. Several of these wells are 60 ft. in depth, and in some the water rises spontaneously to the surface. The town is lighted with gas. The most re markable and most interesting edifice in Beverley, and one of the finest structures of its kind in the kingdom, is the minster. This superb specimen of ecclesiastical architecture was built at different periods, and is in the decorated and perpendicular English styles. Its length, from E. to W., is 334 ft. 4 inches; the breadth of the nave and aisles, 64 ft. 3 inches ; the height of the nave, 67 ft. ; and the length of the great cross aisle or | transept, 167 ft. 6 inches. The centre tower is 107 ft., and the two W. towers 200 ft. high. It is now the parochial church of the united parishes of St. John and St. Martin. The other places of worship are, St. Mary s Church (a large and beautiful structure), St. John s Chapel, two Wesleyan Methodist chapels, and chapels for Independents, Baptists, Primitive Methodists, Scotch Baptists, and a small R. Catholic chapel. The town or guild hall is a spacious and handsome edifice, and contains several public offices. At the N. end of the town is an extensive range of buildings, comprising the E. Riding sessions -house and jail, the principal front of which consists of a portico, supported by four Ionic columns. The other public buildings are, the register office, assembly rooms, temperance hall, and news and billiard room. A beautiful cross in the market-place, erected in 1711, may be also men tioned. Principal schools: an endowed grammar-school, St. Mary s national, St. Mary s infant and school of industry, St. Martin s national, the minster girls , a Wesleyan, blue-coat charity, and two infant schools. Charities: a dispensary, seven sets of alms-houses, in which upwards of 90 aged poor are maintained; and several minor charities. Literary in stitutions, &c. : a mechanics institute (established in 1833), several good libraries, the Methodist reading society, a pam phlet club, two news-rooms, and the news and billiard room already mentioned. Manufactures : the principal manufac tories are, an extensive foundry and manufactory of agricul tural implements, employing, when in full work, 400 hands ; a large cement and colour-work, a linseed-cake and rape-dust manufactory, a bone-crushing mill, and several extensive breweries and tanneries. There is a considerable trade in wool and leather. The corporation is composed of six alder men and 1 8 councillors, who annually elect a mayor out of their number. Beverley sends two members to the House of Commons ; registered electors (1849), 1373. The vicinity of the town abounds in the most beautiful and picturesque walks ; while its inhabitants have, at all times, unobstructed access to a tract of pasture land, consisting of 1174 ac., be longing to the freemen of the town, to whom it is open as pastures ; and as public walks and rides to every one. Bever ley was, at one time, deemed one of the healthiest places in England, and was, on this account, a favourite place of resid ence with persons of independent means. It is now otherwise. Owing to bad drainage, defective sewerage, and the extreme hardness of the water, its mortality has been rapidly increas ing, and is now very great; the deaths in 1848 being 32 per cent, over those of 1847. Pop. (1841), 8409. (Local Corre spondent.) BEVERLOO, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. Limbourg, 12 m. N.W. Hasselt. On the extensive heaths in the neigh bourhood is held a yearly camp for exercising the Belgian army. Pop. 1505. BEVERSTONE, par. Eng. Gloucester; 2360 ac. P. 178. BEVERUNGEN, a tn. Prussia, gov. Minder., circle of, and 8 m. S. Hb xter, 1. bank, Weser, near the confluence of the Bever. It is walled, and otherwise fortified ; and has a R. Catholic church, a synagogue, and poorhouse. Manufac tures : leather, soap, and paper ; some shipbuilding ; several oil-mills ; and an active trade in corn, iron, wood, and colonial produce. Pop. 1918. BEVERWIJK, an anc. market tn. Holland, prov. N. Holland, 8 m. N. Haarlem, close upon the Wijkermeer, an arm of the Ij. It is a large, beautiful, well-built, and well- paved town, situated in one of the most agreeable localities of N. Holland. The principal street (Breestraat) is broad, and planted on either side with a double row of trees; and opens, to the one side, through Meerstraat, upon the harbour, which has a spacious, excellent quay. By means of the Pipe, about 1000 yards long, the harbour communicates with the Wijker meer. The townhouse of Beverwijk is a respectable-looking edifice, and, besides the usual offices, contains the weigh-house BEVILACQUA BEZIERS and the chief watch-house. There are here four churches (Calvinistic, Evangelical Lutheran, E. Catholic, and Baptist), and a small Jewish synagogue. The town, moreover, pos sesses two ordinary and two industrial schools (of the latter, one being for boys, the other for girls), an orphan hospital, and two hospitals for the sick. Beverwijk has an annual leather market, and formerly had cattle markets ; the latter have, however, been discontinued. It is much exposed to inundations. Pop. 2300. BEVILACQUA, a vil. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, prov. Verona, 5 m. E. Legnago, on the Togna. The only object in it deserving of notice is a feudal castle, built in 1354. The greater part of the ancient edifice has disappeared, but a palace, of modern erection, has been united to what remained ; and the whole, though much dilapidated during the revolutionary wars, has a very picturesque appearance. BEWCASTLE, par. Eng. Cumberland ; 26,640 ac. Pop. 1274. BEWDLEY, a market tn. and bor. England, co. of, and 14 m. N.N.W. Worcester, beautifully situated, r. bank, Severn, here crossed by an elegant stone bridge. It has two or three spacious paved streets, is lighted with gas, and amply supplied with water. The houses in the principal street are in general well built, and of respectable appearance. The townhall is a neat structure of stone. Places of worship : a chapel of ease (a spacious stone building, witli a tower and peal of bells), and chapels for Baptists, Wesleyans, Unitarians, and a Friends meeting-house. Schools and charities : a free grammar-school, a blue-coat school, and several sets of alms- houses. Manufactures : comb and rope making, tanning and brassfounding ; some malting is also carried on. The corpor ation consists of a mayor, four aldermen, and 12 councillors. Bewdley returns a member to the House of Commons. Re gistered electors (1849), 394. Pop. 3400. BEX, a large vil. Switzerland, can. Vaud, 26 m. S.S.E. Lausanne, on the Avencon, an affluent of the Rhone, and in a mountainous and picturesque country. It is a beautiful vil lage, with substantial stone houses, and a tastefully-built church, and five annual fairs. Near it are saline springs, and mines of rock-salt; the most important source in Switzerland whence salt is derived ; besides, sufphurous springs and baths, and marble quarries. In the salt mines, beautiful crystals of selonite and muriacite are obtained. Pop. 2854. BEXAR, (SAN ANTONIO DE), a tn. Texas. See ANTONIO. BEXH1LL, par. Eng. Sussex ; 7900 ac. Pop. 1916. BEXLEY, par. Eng. Kent ; 5370 ac. Pop. 3955. 3EXWELL, par. Eng. Norfolk; 1280 ac. Pop. 70. BEYED, a lofty mountain, Abyssinia, prov. Samen, king dom of Tigre; lat. 13 18 N. ; Ion. 38 40 E. ; covered with per petual snow, and believed to be nearly 16,000 ft. high. About 15m. S. by W. from Mount Beyed is Amba Hai, the highest mountain in Abyssinia, also covered with perpetual snow. BEYERLAND. See BEIJEKLAND. BEYROUT, BEIRUT, or BAIROUT fane. Berytus], a sea port tn. Asiatic Turkey, pash. Acre, agreeably situated on a promontory which on one side projects about 2 m. into the sea, and on the other merges into a beautiful plain, backed by the mountains of Lebanon, 60 m. W.N.W. Damascus; lat. 33 54 30" N. ; and Ion. 35 28 15" E. (E.) It consists of the town proper, and of suburbs far surpassing it in extent. The latter are situated among fine gardens, orchards, and groves, and contain a great number of villas and other com modious buildings. The former occupies a kind of shoulder, sloping from the N.N.W. side of the promontory to the shore, where two castellated buildings defend the anchorage ; on the land side it is enclosed by a substantial wall of no great height, flanked by large square towers, and is entered by six gates. The houses, all of stone, are well built, and generally lofty, but have the disadvantage of being much crowded, and arranged in narrow and ill-cleaned streets. Its principal edi fices are a mosque, a Capuchin convent, a nunnery belonging to the sisters of charity, and the mansions occupied by the different consuls, and rendered conspicuous by their national flags. The manufactures consist chiefly of silk and cotton goods, the latter produced to some extent by European ma chinery; the bazaars are large and well supplied; and the trade though wanting the benefit of a proper harbour, and possessing only an anchorage capacious and deep enough, but exposed to W. and N.W. winds -is already extensive, and promises a rapid increase. As the port of Damascus, Beyrout has extensive connections with the interior. Its chief imports are Manchester goods, rice, and hardware ; its exports, the above articles of manufacture, tobacco, gall-nuts, madder, and oil. It is considered the healthiest town on the coast of Syria, is the residence of a wealthy class of Armenian Chris tians, and has every appearance of being in a flourishing con dition, though possessing little of the splendour for which it was celebrated in early times, and of which some traces still exist in the fragments of granite columns strewn along the shore. It is supposed (o be the Berothah of Scripture, or Baal Beroth of the Phenicians. Undei* the Romans it had a famous school of jurisprudence, and in the 6th century was considered the finest city of Phenicia, It subsequently expe rienced disastrous changes, and suffered much, particularly during the Crusades. Pop., including suburbs, at least 30 000 BEY-SHEHER. See BEG-SHEHER. BEZIERS, a tn. France, dep. Herault, cap. arrond. of same name, 38 m. S.W. Montpellier, on a hill on the banks of the Orbe, here crossed by a stone bridge, and at the mouth of the Languedoc Canal. The situation of the town is celebrated for its beauty, and is, likewise, deemed healthy. Beziers is surrounded by old walls, but has no gates. The streets are, in general, narrow, but the houses are tolerably regular, and substantially built of stone ; and the inhabitants boast greatly of the recent improvements made in the town, which is a busy thriving place. The general aspect of Beziers, on the Narbonne side, is extremely picturesque, as it seems to rise high above the plain. The effect is heightened by the THE CATHEDRAL, I oyagee dam 1 Anoienne France. old cathedral, which stands on the top of the hill, and is a regular Gothic structure, with a handsome nave ; an elegant choir, in form of a semicircle, surrounded with columns of red marble, and well-painted windows. On the terrace of the cathedral, there is a reservoir to supply the town with water, which is raised from the river Orbe by a steam-engine. Besides the cathedral, there are two other churches of interest in the town. Beziers has courts of first resort, and of com merce ; a communal college, a public library containing about 5000 volumes, a courthouse, formerly the episcopal palace, and an agricultural society. In the vicinity, excellent red wines are produced. Brandy-distilling is: carried on here to a great extent, this being one of the chief markets for that spirit in France. Other manufactures, some of them extensive, are, cloth, silk stockings, gloves, confectionary, chemical stuffs, silk yarn, glass, paper, soap, leather, and casks. It has a considerable trade in wool, grain, oil, soda, verdegris, BEZOARA 400 BHAUGULPORE almonds, nuts, fruits, and the articles manufactured. In 1209, Beziers was the scene of a horrible massacre of the Albi- genses by a fanatical crusade, headed by the bishop of the district, and the abbot ofCiteaux. The number of victims has been stated at 00,000 ; but the abbot himself, in a letter natives being made of reeds thatched with grass, but thos? belonging to the Chinese are mostly substantially built of blue-stained bricks. The Chinese temple is built, and the streets are paved with the latter material, and the grounds of emple are surrounded by a neat brick tile-covered wall. to Pope Innocent III., humbly apologizes for not having ; Besides the regular inhabitants, who are chiefly Laos, there succeeded in slaying more than 20,000. Pop. 16,322. | always numerous strangers in Bhamo Chinese, Shans, and BEZOARA, a tn. Hindoostan, Carnatic, presid. Madras, Kakhyens, who come either as purchasers or in search of 1. bank, Kistnah, 42 m. N.W. Masulipatam; lat. 16 37 N. ; Ion. 80 43 E. The Kistnah, which is here confined be tween two bold projecting mountains, is 3300 ft. wide, and is crossed by a ferry, which forms the great thoroughfare be tween the Circars and the Carnatic. The town contains a well-built Mahometan serai and mosque. The rocks are em bellished with picturesque Hindoo pagodas, and cave temples of an inferior description have been formed in the body of the mountain. Brahmins and beggars are the only inhabitants. BEZOEKI, a prov. Java, occupying the whole of the E. end of that island ; bounded, W. by prov. Passoeroean, N. by the Strait of Madura, E. by the Strait of Bali or Bally, and S. by the Indian Ocean ; area, 3072 geo. sq. m. It is vol canic and mountainous ; the highest peaks, volcanoes, are, Idjeng, 10,170 ft. ; Wido Daren, 7956 ft.; and Lemongan, 0561 ft.; and those not volcanoes, Argopoero, 8530 ft. ; and Krintjing, 8202 ft. The E. part is thickly wooded, and yields sulphur ; and in the W., limestone rocks are found. Towards the shore, the land is low, marshy, and unhealthy ; but, over all, the soil is fertile. Coffee, rice, and sugar, are the prin cipal products. Among the trees is found the upas-tree. mimals are, horses, buffaloes, oxen, sheep, and numer ous tigers. Fish are plentiful on the coast. The province is divided into the districts Probolingo, Bezoeki, and Banjoe- wangi. Pop. (1838), 398,061. BEZOEKI, a tn. Java, cap. above prov., on a rivulet of same name, At its embouchure in the Strait of Madura, 69 m. S.S.E. Soerabaya. Being built on a plain formed by the alluvium of the river, and sand thrown up by the sea, in the midst of rice fields, and at the foot of high wooded mountains that prevent a free circulation of air, it is a very unhealthy place even for Java. The stagnant water in the marshes de voted to the culture of rice being, at certain seasons, run off, the decomposition of vegetable matter, and of the thousands of worms and marine animals exposed under a tropical sun, raise a stench felt even on board ships in the roads, though vessels must lie a considerable way off. Intermittent fevers are then prevalent, attacking both natives and Europeans. These last, however, chiefly reside up the river from the town, in a more healthy locality. A good deal of business is done here in the products of the province. The roadstead is secure in the E. monsoon. BHADRINATH, or BADRINATH [anc. Vadarinatha]. 1, A small tn., N. Hindoostan, prov. Kumaon, in the centre of a narrow valley of the Himalaya, on the Alacananda, 10,290 ft. above the sea, 80 m. N. Almora; lat. 30 43 N.; Ion. 79 39 E. ; famous for a Hindoo temple, said to possess 700 villages in different parts of Gurwal and Kumaon, and visited yearly by upwards of 50,000 pilgrims from all parts of India. There are here warm, sulphurous, and cold springs. 2, A peak of the Himalaya, 17 m. W. the town, 23,440 ft. high. B HAG, or BAGH, a tn. Beloochistan, dist. Cutch Gun- dava, 140 m. E.S.E. Kelat. It is a large place, and surrounded by walls, which are in a ruinous state. It has not much trade in the products of the district, but its situation, on the caravan route from Shikarpoor to Khorasan, gives it an important transit trade. Pop. 8000. BHAMO, BAMO, or BANMO [also ZefAlicet-eeit the new mart landing-place], a large trading tn. Burmah, the seat of a viceroy. 1. bank, Irawadi, which is here a deep navigable stream. It lies 170 m. N.N.E. Ava, and 15 m. W. from the frontier of the Chinese province of Yunan ; lat. 24 9 N. ; Ion. 96 45 E. (Gutzlaff.) This is a modern town, erected for the convenience of water carriage to Ava; the old Shan town, Manmo or Bamo, being two days journey distant up the river Tapan, which falls into the Irawadi about 1 m. above the new town of Bhamo. It lies on unequal clay ground, 40 to 50 ft. above the level of the river, and is sur rounded with a bamboo palisade. The houses, about 2000 in number, are large and comfortable ; these belonging to the work. There is here a good bazaar, and the principal mer chants are Chinese, with an intermixture of Burmans. The principal article of export trade, cotton, is entirely in the hands of the Chinese. Other articles of trade are, salt, dried fish, rice, betel-nuts, and other vegetable produce; birds nests, ivory, copper pots, carpets, and warm jackets. From China, the imports are, tea, manufactured goods, paper, &c. It is the chief entrepot between Burmah and China, and, in many respects, maybe considered a southern Kiakhta. The people are wealthy and comfortable, and pay for everything in silver, the export of which, however, from Burmah, is prohibited. The Palongs, who inhabit the neighbouring hills on the Chinese frontier, are remarkably industrious ; they are good dyers, carpenters, and blacksmiths, and make all the swords used in this part of the country. (Jovr. Bengal Asiatic & oc., April, 1837.) BHATGONG, a city, N. Hindoostan, Nepaul, 9 m. E.S.E. Katamandoo, once the seat of an independent chief, and said to have formerly contained 12,000 houses. It is now much decayed, but is still a favourite residence of the Nepaulese Brahmins. It has a palace, several public buildings, and an extensive library. Pop. 12,000. BHATNEER, or BHUTNEER, a tn. Hindoostan, Rajpoot- ana, modern cap. of the Bhatty Country, and the most E. town in the presidency of Bengal, 180 m. W.N.W. Delhi, 130 m. N.N.E. Bicanere; lat. 29 36 N.; Ion. 74 27 E. It was taken and destroyed by Tamerlane in 1398, and in 1807, was again captured by the Rajah of Bicanere, who kept possession of it for several years. BHATTIES (THE COUNTRY OF THE), Hindoostan, prov. Ajmeer. Its limits are not fixed, but it may be assumed to be bounded, N. by the riven Garra or Gharra, S. by the terri tories of the Bicanere Eajah, E. by Hurrianna and parts of Delhi, and W. by the great sandy desert. Bhatneer and Batindah are the chief Bhatty towns, but those best known to Europeans are, Futtehabad, Sirsah, Raneah. The inhabit ants barter or export little produce, and import only white cloth, sugar, and salt, being almost wholly abandoned to pre datory habits. They were originally shepherds, whose descend ants are still to be found in the Punjab, and E. of the Indus from the sea to Ooch. BHAUGULPORE, or BOGLIPOOR, a dist. Hindoostan, presid. Bengal, chiefly in prov. Bahar, but the E. portion in Bengal, between lat. 23 4 and 25 49 N., and Ion. 86 15 and 87 31 E.; bounded, N. by districts Tirhoot and Pur- neah ; E. by Purneah and Moorshedabad ; S. by Ramghur and Beerbhoom ; and W. by Bahar and Ramghur ; length, N.W. to S.E., 133 m. ; breadth, 80 m. ; area, 8225 sq. m. It lies on both sides of the Ganges, and has several chains and groups of hills, forming part of the Vindhya Mountains. The two principal groups arc situated, respectively, near the N.E. and N.W. boundaries of the district. The former, close by Raja- mahal, are pretty well cultivated ; but the hills to the W. are mostly waste, and, in many places, covered with almost im penetrable forests. A great part of the surface of the level land is mere rock ; in other parts, the ground is studded, at intervals, with fragments of rock, particularly on the W. hills, where the plough cannot be employed. It has been estimated that the area of the rocky level ground is upwards of 1700 sq. m. ; and that of the uncultivable hills, 1 150 sq. m. The re maining arable portions consist of rich and productive soil, about 3000 sq. m. being under tillage. The chief crops are, wheat, barley, maize, cotton, sugar-cane, and indigo. Of the last, large quantities are exported. Potatoes are grown near Monghir and Boglipoor. Small quantities of silk and salt petre are produced. Tissues of cotton, and silk and cotton mixed, fire-arms, sugar, arid domestic articles in metal, are the only manufactures. Owing to the want of good roads and bridges, there is little trade. Besides the Ganges, which runs through the district for 60 m., the chief rivers are the Goggra and the Gandahi. South of the Ganges, the streams BHAUGULPORE 401 BHURTPOOR are merely liill torrents, which, though broad, are usually fordable during the rainy season, when several of them are deep enough to float down bamboos and timber. The winds most prevalent are the E. and W. ; they are also the most violent. The winters are less cold than in the adjoining district of Purneah, and the summer season is often oppres sively hot. There are a few wild elephants on the hills in the E. part of the country ; but the most destructive quadruped is the Hunimaun baboon (considered by the Hindoos nearly as sacred as the cow), which abounds here. Great numbers of pilgrims, soldiers, and European travellers, are constantly passing through the district both by land and water ; and this forms a principal source of profit to the inhabitants, who furnish travellers with provisions and other necessaries ; it is estimated that, at certain seasons, no fewer than 100 pas sage boats stop daily at Eajamahal, besides those stopping at Pointy, Colgang, Sultangunge, Boglipoor, and Monghir. In the 12th century, W. Bhaugulpore was seized by the Maho metans, and E. by the Bengalese, and, until the British su premacy was established, anarchy prevailed in both. Pop. 2,020,000, of which one-sixth are Mahometans. (Tennant s Indian Recreations ; Martin s History of East India; Rennell s Memoir of a Map of Hindoostan ; Report on East Indian Af fairs; Hamilton s East India Qaz.} BHAUGULPORE, (more commonly now, Boglipoor}, [the abode of refugees], cap. of above dist., seat of a govern ment, resident, and circuit court, beautifully situated near r. bank, Gauges, 113m. N.W. Moorshedabad ; lat. 25 13 N.; Ion. 86 58 E. The town is large and finely situated, but is meanly built, and contains numerous bazaars inconveniently placed. The European houses and Mahometan mosques are handsome buildings, and the monument of Hosein Khan is well worth notice. Bhaugulpore has a neat jail, an hospital, Arabic college, with about 40 scholars, and an English school, well attended, chiefly by the children of the hill chiefs. There is a small R. Catholic church, attended by persons of that re ligion, partly descendants of the Portuguese, and partly by native converts, who, in other respects, retain their own dress and manners. A little N.W. of the town, are two singular round towers, supposed to be of Jain origin, and meant for the accommodation of the numerous worshippers of this sect, who annually visit them. As the traveller approaches the town, the numerous mosques, overtopped by lofty palms, and mingled with the hanging foliage of the tamarind-tree, give it a very pleasing appearance. The vicinity abounds with swelling hills, and is very fertile, well-cultivated and healthy, though much infested by snakes, particularly the Cobra da capello. Pop., chiefly Mahometans, 30,000. BHAWULPOOR. See BAIIAWULPOOR. BHEELS, a race of mountaineers, Hindoostan, inhabit ing the mountains of Candeish, and the wild and uncultivated country along the 1. bank, Nerbudda, from the plains of Newaur, to those of Goojerat. They differ from the other natives in appearance and manners, and are believed by some to be the original inhabitants of the country. They are small, have dark complexions ; go almost in a state of nudity, constantly armed with bows and arrows, and are greatly addicted to thieving and robbery. They are said to be Hindoos of the Brahminical persuasion ; but they bury their dead, eat beef and pork, drink spirits of every description, and indulge in many other practices which are in direct opposition to the requirements of the Hindoo religion. Many of them, in cer tain districts, pretend to be converts to Mahometanism ; of which, however, they seem to know little beyond the name. BHEERJOON, or BIEDBCHDN, a tn. Persia, prov. Kho- rasan, cap. dist. of same name, about 1 80 m. S. Mushed. It is of great antiquity, and though much decayed, is still a place of considerable importance. It is the seat of Government, and has extensive felt manufactures. The population has been stated at 30,000 families, but Fraser thinks that it does not exceed that number of individuals. BHOBANESER, or BHAVANESWARA, a small tn. or vil. Hindoostan, prov. Orissa, 16m. S. Cuttack, on the site of a very ancient city, founded in the seventh century. It consists of a few hundred mud huts. At one extremity of it is the bur- rali tellores or great tank, half a mile square, and very deep, with a magnificent temple in the centre. BHOOJ, a city, Hindoostan, prov. Cutch, of which it is the modern cap., on an acclivity in a plain, S.W. a fortified VOL. 1. hill called Bhoojan, 240 m. N.W. Surat, and 35 m. N. the Gulf of Cutch ; lat. 23 17 N. ; Ion. 69 53 E. It is situated on a rising ground, and presents, from a little distance, a pic turesque appearance, with its mosques, pagodas, and brilliant white houses, shining from amidst thick plantations of date- trees. As in the case of most Eastern cities, however, a nearer view dispels the illusion. The fort of Bhooj was taken by the British in 1819, and both port and town suffered consider ably from an earthquake in June of the same year. West of the city, and close to the walls, is a large tank, with stairs to the water s edge, and in the centre an elevated terrace, form erly a place of recreation for the chiefs ; but the buildings are now in ruins. Bhooj is celebrated for the skill of its artists in working gold and silver. Infanticide is frequent in the vicinity. Pop. 30,000. (Bombay Researches; Trans. Bombay Lit. Soc.) BHOONG-BARA, a dist. India, N. part of Scinde, about lat. 28 N. ; Ion. 69 E. It contains 15 villages, and formerly yielded an annual revenue of 60,000. It has repeatedly changed masters, and in 1843 the British authorities in Scinde bestowed it upon Mahomet Bhawl Khan, ruler of Bahawulpoor, as a reward for his zeal and fidelity. BHOPAUL, or BOPAUL, a territory, Hindoostan, under British protection, presid. Bengal, provs. Malwa and Gund- wana, between lat. 22 32 and 23 46 N.; and Ion. 76 40 and 79 20 E. ; bounded, N., W., and S., by the Scindias dom inions. The Nerbudda forms a natural boundary through nearly the whole extent of the S. frontier; length, E. to W., 140 m.; breadth, N. to S., 81 m. ; area, 6764 sq. m. The surface is uneven and full of jungles, and is traversed centrally from E. to W. by a hilly tract, forming part of the Vindhya Mountains. The soil is generally fertile, especially in the valleys, yielding wheat, maize, millet, pease, and other vegetable productions peculiar to Central India. Rice is not largely cultivated, but sugar, tobacco, ginger, and cotton, are raised in quantities exceeding the home consumption, and exchanged for salt and manufactured goods. The district is well watered by the Nerbudda, Betwah, and other minor streams. The dominant people are Patans, established here by Aurungzebe, in the early part of the 18th century. In 1812, the Vizier Mahomet made a gallant and successful defence against the combined forces of Scindia, the Rajah of Nagpoor, and the Pindarrees ; but on his death in 1816, the British took Bhopaul under their pro tection, conferring on Mahomet s son, Nusseer Mahomet Khan, a considerable part of the present territory. The country has remained since in a peaceful and prosperous condition. Popu lation estimated at 662,872. BHOPAUL, a tn. Hindoostan, cap. of above territory, on the boundary between Malwa and Guild wana, 108 m. E. Oojein ; lat. 23 16 N. ; Ion. 77 28 E. It is surrounded by a stone wall, and has on the S.W. a native fort or ghuny, with square towers, all much dilapidated. E. and W. of the town are two large tanks, the source of the rivers Bess and Patra. BHOTAN. See BOOTAN. BHOWNUGGUR, a seaport tn. Hindoostan, prov. Goo jerat, W. side of the Gulf of Cambay, 60 m. W. Baroche ; lat. 21 50 N.; Ion. 72 15 E., and the chief mart of import and export for Ahmedabad, &c. The trade with Arabia is con siderable. BHURTPOOR, a native state, Hindoostan, bounded, E. by Agra, and S. and W. by the Rajpoot states, extending from lat. 26 43 to 27 50 N.; Ion. 76 54 to 77 49 E. ; area. 1978 sq m. The chief towns are, Bhurtpoor (the capital), Deeg, Weyre, Biana, Combher, Gopaulghur, and Kur- nau. Some parts of the country are so low and flat, as to be completely inundated during the rainy season. The soil in general is light and sandy, but well watered, and well cul tivated. The chief productions are corn, cotton, and sugar. Salt also is obtained from brine springs. From the country not being well wooded, fuel is scarce, and consequently high- priced. The villages are in good condition, and indicate an industrious population. There are numerous wells, constructed by building the masonry first, and afterwards undermining and sinking it. The peacock is an object of such veneration here, that it is dangerous to kill it. About A.D. 1700, the Jats settled in this district, having emigrated from the banks of the Indus, in the lower part of the province of Mooltan ; they assumed the title of the military caste, and their chief that of Rajah. In 1768, this territory was at its greatest extent, stretching along the course of the BHURTPOOR 402 BIASCA river Jumnah, from near Delhi to Etawah ; but in 1780, Nud- jiff Khan conquered it and reduced it to an insignificant area, diminishing in proportion the revenue of the Rajah. After various changes, Buldeo Singh, in 1824, ascended the throne of his father Runjeet, and his son, Bulwunt Singh was recog nized by the British, in 1825, as legitimate Rajah. In 1826, Durjunt Sal attempted to usurp the throne of the young Rajah, and having resisted British interference, was defeated, and himself and family sent prisoners to Allahabad. Since this time, Bhurtpoor has been under British protection. BHURTPOOR, a tn. Hindoostan, cap. of above dist., 110 m. S.S.W. Delhi, and 30 m. E. Agra; lat. 27 12 N.; Ion. 77 32 E. It is about 4 m. in circuit, and was formerly strongly fortified, but its defences have been long demolished, and it is now surrounded by a low wall only. The streets, as in all Eastern towns, are extremely narrow and dirty, but are full of life and bustle ; the houses are of stone, and two or three stories in height. At the N.W. part of the town is the fort, in the form of a pentagon. It consists of walls of hewn stone 60 ft. high, reckoning from the bed of the moat, which is 30 ft. deep, and is full of water, in winch are a number of tortoises. Within the walls is the Rajah s palace, situated on THE RAJAH S PALACE, BHURTPOOR From an original drawing, by Capt. R. Smith, 41th R-giment an eminence, surrounded with pretty flower-gardens and foun tains. The building is of red and yellow freestone, in the Mogul style, and has a singularly picturesque appearance, not a little heightened by the fine trees with which it is encom passed. Bhurtpoor derives no small interest from having been the scene of two sieges, in one of which the flower of the British army was destroyed. The first occurred on January 3, 1 805, when the place was invested by Lord Lake, and taken after a siege of upwards of 1 4 weeks, with a loss to the British, in killed and wounded, of 3100 men. The second took place in January 1826, when it was again taken, but with a loss, on this occasion, of no more than 103 killed, and 446 wounded. Standing on a plain, Bhurtpoor is seen from a great distance; in approaching it, luxuriant fields of wheat and barley arc eeen on every side. Pop. about 100,000. BHUTNEER. &.e BHATNEER. BIAFRA (BIGHT OF), Africa, Gulf of Guinea, having Cape Lopez on the S., and Cape Formosa on the N., distant from each other 390 m. The shores of the bight extend to about GOO m., between lat. and 4 N. ; and Ion. 5 and 10 E. The_N. African and Guinea current terminates in this bight, coming slightly in contact with the equatorial current before entering it. There are three islands in the bight, Fernando Po, Prince s Island, and St. Thomas s; and it receives the Old Calabar river, the Cameroons, and some others. BIAGIO (Sr.), or ST. BIASE, a tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Ultra, 2 m. W. Nicastro. In the vicinity good wine is pro duced, and there are some mineral springs ; but the situation of the town is unhealthy. It suflered from an earthquake in 1783. Pop. 3300. BI ALA. 1 , A tn. Austrian States, Galicia, gov. Lemberg, on the frontiers of Moravia, circle of, and 18 m. S.W. Wa- dowice, on the Biala. It has manufactures of woollens, linens, nails, and iron utensils. It has been a free town since 1789, and was made capital of the circle by the Confederation of Bar. Pop. 4000. 2, A tn. Poland, gov. Podlachia, 38 m. E.S.E. Siedlec, on the Krzna. It contains the fine castle of the Radziwill family. Pop. 3600. BIALYSTOK, or BELOSTOK. 1, A prov. Russia in Eu rope, formerly belonging to Poland, but ceded to Russia by the treaty of Tilsit, in 1807. It is bounded, E. and S. by the Grodno territory, and N. and W. by Poland, and is divided into four districts Bialystok, Sokolka, Bielsk, and Drohiczya; area, nearly 3400 sq. m. The surface is flat, and marshy at intervals, but is in general fertile ; and a considerable portion is covered with fine forests, those belonging to the Crown comprising about 250,000 acres. In these forests, bears and wolves are not uncommon, and game abounds. The agricul tural produce includes rye, wheat, oats, barley, flax, hemp, and hops. Its manufactures comprise coarse cloths, hats, leather, soap, &c. The chief exports are grain, flax, hemp, hops, tallow, and timber. Pop. (the majority R. Catholic), 265,944. 2, A tn. Russia in Europe, cap. of above prov., on the Bialy, 45 m. S.S.W. Grodno. It is a well-built, handsome town ; is the seat of a criminal court, and of a civil court of appeal, and contains a gymnasium and seven other schools, with about 500 pupils. It has some manufactures, employing about 700 hands; also a busy trade. Here are the fine dwelling and domain formerly pos sessed by the Counts of Braniski, once called The Versailles of Poland. Pop. about 10,000. BIANA, or BEANA, a tn. Hin doostan, prov. of, and 52 m. S.W. Agra, dist. Bhurtpoor, on the Ban- gunga; lat. 26 56 N.; Ion. 77 14 E.; situated at the foot of a hill. It was formerly the capital of the province of Agra, and is still a con siderable town, containing large stone buildings, and a spacious and flourishing bazaar. In the environs may be traced the remains of a more extensive city. BIANCAVILLA, a tn. Sicily, dist. of, and 14 m. N.N. W. Catania. It stands on the S.W. slope of Mount Etna, from which it is about 10 m. distant, and is supposed to occupy the site of the ancient Etna or Inessa. It lias some trade in grain, silk, and cotton. Pop. about 6000. BIANCO [white], four capes, Mediterranean Sea: 1, A cape, Tunis, the most N. point of Africa; lat. 37 20 N., Ion. 9 47 E. (R.) 2, A cape, isl. Cyprus ; lat. 34 29 18" N. ; Ion. 32 28 15" E. (R.) 3, A cape, Ionian Islands, the most S. point of Corfu ; lat. 39 21 12" N.; Ion. 20 7 45" E. (R.) 4, A cape, isl. Sicily, S.W. coast; lat. 37 22 24" N.; Ion. 13 16 30" E. (R.) BIAR, a tn. Spain, Valencia, prov. of, and 29 m. N. Iv W. Alicante, in a valley of same name. It has steep, but generally wide and well-paved streets, two squares, a parish church, townhouse, containing the prison ; an hospital, poor- house, endowed school, and storehouse. The inhabitants are engaged in agriculture, weaving woollen fabrics, and in cut ting tombstones, &c., and manufacturing earthenware. Two mines of copper and iron are wrought in the neighbourhood ; wine and oil made, and excellent honey produced. Pop. 2963. BIARRITZ, an unimportant seaport tn. France, dep. Basses Pyrenees, 4 m. from Bayonne. There is here a light house, situated on a point called St. Martin de Biarritz ; lat. 43 30 N. ; Ion. 1 33 W. The light is revolving, and visible from a distance of 16m. The town is much frequented by the inhabitants of Bayonne as a watering place. Pop. 1892. BIASCA, or ABLENTSCH, a vil. and par. Switzerland, can. Tessin, on the Blegno, 8 m. N. Bellinzona. It contains a very ancient church, from which a series of chapels, forming what is called a Via Crucis, leads up to the chapel of St. Pe- tronilla, commanding a fine view. In 1512, a mass of earth and rock, thrown down by an earthquake, dammed up the Blegno, which soon formed an extensive lake. Two years after, the barrier gave way, and the flood carried devastation into the district. Biasco, then a flourishing place, was almost destroyed, and has never recovered. Pop. 1912. BIBBIENA 403 BIDEFORD BIBBIENA, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and ll m. N. Arezzo, near 1. bank, Arno, commanded by a castle of considerable strength and extent ; and having two churches, a townhouse, theatre, several palaces, an academy of science, and other educational institutions. Some grain and fruits are grown, and a considerable number of sheep and cattle reared. Pop. 5079. . BIBBONA, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 34 in. S. by E. Pisa, 16 m. N. Campiglia, on a declivity N.W. Mount Gherardesca. It possesses a spacious square, and handsome church ; and is commanded by a castle, defended by a wall flanked with towers, and surrounded by a deep fosse. Here are extensive ironworks, supplied with metal from the island of Elba. The commune is fertile in grain, and is rich in pasturage. Pop. 1 656. BIBERACH, a tn. Wiirtemberg, circle, Danube, on the Riss, 22 m. S.S.W. Ulm. It is surrounded by walls, has a townhouse, five churches, numerous educational institutions, and an hospital. It carries on an active business in skin- dressing, tanning, and brewing, and in the manufacture of strong woollen fabrics. It has also a considerable trade in grain. In the vicinity is Oberholzheim, the birthplace of Wieland. The French, under Moreau, defeated the Austrians near Biberach in 1796. Pop. 4687. Several other places in Germany have the same name. BIBIANA, a vil. Sardinian States, Piedmont, prov. of, and about 8 m. S.S.W. Pinerolo, on the Felice. It contains a parish church, a convent, and a castle, and has two annual fairs. Pop. 2500. BIBLIS, a tn. Hesse -Darmstadt, prov. Starkenburg, r. bank, Weschnitz, 15m. S. W. Darmstadt ; with a E. Catholic parish church. Pop. 2050. BIBURY, par. Eng. Gloucester; 6300 ac. Pop. 1077. BICANERE, BICKANEER, or BICANIK, a principality, Hindoostan, prov. Ajmeer, of which it occupies the centre. It lies chiefly within lat. 27 and 29 N. ; and has, N. the great Ajmeer desert and the Bhatty country, S. the Joudpoor and Jeypoor dominions, E. the British district Hurriana and the Shekawutty country, and W. Jesselmere and the great desert, into which it merges ; but like all other states in this desert of moving sand, its limits are not easily defined, and are continually changing; area, supposed to be about 18,000 sq. m. The country is somewhat elevated, but the surface is flat; and the soil, which is a light brown sand, absorbs the rain as soon as it falls. Various kinds of Indian pulse are almost the only produce of the soil. Artificial irrigation must, in almost all cases, be resorted to, in order to obtain a crop of any kind. Horses and cattle, of a very inferior kind, are the sole exports ; while rice, sugar, opium, and indigo, are the principal imports. This is the poorest of the Rajpoot principalities, and in 1818 was admitted within the pale of British protection. The capital is Bicanere. Pop. 539,250. BICANERE, or BICKANEEK, a fortified tn., W. Hindoo- Btan, prov. Ajmeer, cap. principality of same name, 240 m. W. by S. Delhi; lat. 27 57 N.; Ion. 73 30 E. It stands within a tract of desolate country, and has a magnificent ap pearance at a distance, which is not borne out by a closer inspection. It is surrounded by a wall, with numerous round towers and Indian battlements. There are some elevated houses and temples, one of which has a lofty spire ; but the great majority of the dwellings are mere huts, with mud walls, painted red. The citadel, a confused assemblage of towers and battlements, about a quarter of a mile square, and sur rounded by a wall 30 ft. high, is regarded by the natives as a place of great strength. In it is a well, 300 ft. deep and 20 ft. diameter. There are generally several Europeans in the service of the Eajah. Pop. vaguely estimated at 60,000. BICCART, a tn. Naples, prov. Capitanata, 18 m. W.S.W. Foggia, on the E. declivity of the Apennines. It has a col legiate, and several other churches. Large fairs are held here. Pop. 3460. BICESTER, a market tn. and par. England, co. Oxford. The town stands on a plain, 54 m. N.W. London, and llm. N.N.E. Oxford. It consists of three principal streets, two of them straight, and all well kept ; houses mostly of stone, and all well built. The town is lighted with gas, well supplied with water, and has been much improved of late by flagging and draining. The churches are, the parish church, a spacious structure, with a lofty tower and peal of bells, rebuilt in 1400, and containing many interesting monuments and antique sculptures ; an Independent chapel, and Wesleyan chapel, both handsome edifices. The principal schools are, the national school, for girls only; the blue-coat school, founded 1721, for 30 boys; the diocesan school, two private schools for girls, and two for boys, and several sabbath-schools, two of which are endowed. There are also several benevolent and charitable societies and associations ; the most remark able of which is an ancient institution called The Town Stock, for the relief of decayed parishioners who have been formerly in good circumstances. A savings -bank was estab lished in 1842. The manufacture of leather slippers and sacking, and the combing of wool, were formerly carried on here to a considerable extent ; but one only of these branches (the manufacture of sacking) now remains, and that only on a very small scale. Ale is brewed to some extent, and has obtained considerable celebrity, its excellence being supposed to arise from the purity of the water. Area of par. 2580 ac. Pop. (1841), 3022. (Local Correspondent.} BICETRE. See GENTILLY. BICKANEER. See BICAKEKE. BICKENHILL (CHURCH), par. Eng. Warwick ; 3810 ac. Pop. 774. BICKER, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 3720 ac. Pop. 925. BICKERTON S ISLAND, Australia, W. coast, Gulf of Carpentaria ; lat. 13 45 S. ; Ion. 136 15 E. (R.) BICKINGTON, two pars. Eng. Devon:!, 1220 ac. Pop. 374. 2, Bickington (High), 3890 ac. Pop. 895. B1CKLE1GH, two pars. Eng. Devon : 1 , 1690 ac. Pop. 362. 2, 2980 ac. Pop. 469. BICKNOLLER, par. Eng. Somerset ; 1370 ac. P. 345. BICKNOR, three pars. Eng. : 1, Bicknor (Church], par. Kent; 500 ac. Pop. 46. 2, Bicknor (English), par. Glou cester; 2440 ac. Pop. 576. 3, Bicknor (Welsh), par. Mon- mouth ; 960 ac. Pop. 74. BICTON, par. Eng. Devon; 1180 ac. Pop. 198. BIDASSOA, or VIDASOA [Basque, way to the west, or two streams ], a river, Spain, about 45 m. long, the last 12 of which form the boundary between France and Spain. It rises in the mountains of Spanish Navarre, and, after various changes of direction, falls into the Bay of Biscay near Font- arabia. In former times, Spain claimed not only the entire river, but so much of its banks, on the French side, as its waters covered at full tide. This difference was finally settled by each country contenting itself with its own shore. Near Irun, there is a small island in the middle of the stream, called the Island of Pheasants ; on which, being a sort of neutral ground, Louis XI. and Henry IV. met in 1463. Here, also, a peace was concluded between France and Spain in 1654; and here, again, in 1660, Cardinal Mazarin met Louis de Haro, and arranged the marriage between the daughter of Philip IV. and Louis XIV. BIDBOROUGH, par. Eng. Kent; 1360 ac. Pop. 260. BIDDENDEN, par. Eng. Kent; 7110 ac. Pop. 1486. BIDDENHAM, par. Eng. Bedford ; 1760 ac. Pop. 345. BIDDESHAM, par. Eng. Somerset ; 510 ac. Pop. 145. BIDDESTONE (ST. NICHOLAS and ST. PETER), par. Eng. Wilts ; 2530 ac. Pop. 452. BIDDLESDON, or BITTLESDEN, par. Eng. Bucks ; 1630 ac. Pop. 169. BIDDULPH, par. Eng. Stafford ; 5530 ac. Pop. 2314. BIDEFORD, a market tn., river-port, and par. England, co. Devon, him. Shebbear. The town is 44 m. N. Plymouth ; lat. 51 4 30" N. ; Ion. 4 12 W. (R.), picturesquely situated on both sides the Torridge, the principal portion being on the W. side, on a bold acclivity, 3 m. from the sea. A handsome stone bridge of 24 arches, and 677 ft. in length, connects tho two divisions of the town. There are six principal streets, all well paved, and which, from their being on a slope, are always clean and dry ; houses mostly of stone, and generally well built. The town is abundantly supplied with water from numerous springs, there being scarcely a house without a pump ; and it is well lighted with gas. Near its centre is a spacious market-place ; and, on the margin of the river, a commodious quay. The principal public civic buildings are the town and guild halls, both extremely plain. There are six different places of worship, including the parish church ; an endowed grammar-school, two other public schools, and two private seminaries, and a number of minor charities ; also 131DFORD 404 BIELO-OZERO a dispensary (lately established), a literary and scientific in stitution, with a good library. The woollen manufactures, formerly considerable, have been discontinued. The most important manufactures now are coarse earthenware, and pot tery of a finer description, ropes, sailcloth, shipbuilding, and the various branches connected therewith. A prolific culm mine, also, has been lately opened, which promises to form a considerable addition to the ordinary trade of the town. In former times, Bideford had an extensive shipping trade, having, at the close of the 17th century, more ships engaged in the Newfoundland trade than any port in England, except London and Topsham. It is also said that it imported more tobacco in some years of last century than the metropolis. The trade of the port is still considerable. The number of vessels re gistered, in the year ending December 1847, was 150; tonn. 12,436. Entered during the same period, 572 ; tonn. 26,376 ; cleared, 250; toun. 12,912. The imports consist chiefly of timber, hemp, tallow, wines, fruit, cattle, coal, iron, flag stones, &c. The principal export is agricultural produce. The amount of customs received in 1847 was 3750. By the municipal act of 1835, the government of the town is vested in a mayor, four aldermen, 12 councillors, a recorder, and several borough magistrates. The scenery around the town is singularly beautiful, and the climate is salubrious. Area of par. 4510 ac. Pop. (1811), 5211 ; of tn. 4830. (Local Correspondent.) BIDFORD, par. Eng. Warwick; 3240 ac. Pop. 1567. B IDOUZE, a small river, France, an affluent of the Adour, into which it falls 15 m. W.N.W. Bayonne. It rises in the Pyrenees, near St. Jean Pied de Port, dep. Basses Pyrenees, and by means of the tide is navigable for a small part of its course, which in all does not exceed 50 m. The chief article of traffic upon it is hewn stone, for Bayonne, from the quarries of Came and Bidache. BIDSCHOW (NED), or NEW Biczow [Bohem. Nowy- Bydsow], a tn. Bohemia, circle of same name, 45 m. E.N.E. Prague, on the Czidlina, near a small lake. It is very old, and has a church, a synagogue, a townhouse, and an hospital. The inhabitants live chiefly by agriculture and weaving. The cattle reared here are of a superior kind. Topaz, chal cedony, agates, and jasper have been found in the environs. Pop. 7891, of whom 3863 are Jews. The CIRCLE is bounded, N. by Prussian Silesia, W. by circle Bunzlau, S. by Chrudim, Czaslau, and Chocsim, and E. by Koniggratz ; area, 744 geo. sq. m. The surface consists of three marked de scriptions the highlands, belonging to the Riesengebirge, and containing several ridges of considerable height, broken by narrow valleys ; the midlands, exhibiting generally an undu lating surface ; and the plains. The summits of the moun tains are granite, and their sides mica-slate ; the lower hills are chiefly of red sandstone, in which are some appearances of coal ; the plains have usually a substratum of chalk, covered by a deep alluvium. The principal rivers are the Elbe, which rises in the circle ; the Iser, the Milnitz, and the Czidlina. The minerals are of no importance. The hilly districts are in general well wooded, and the lower very fertile, producing all kinds of corn and pulse. The principal fruits are cherries and plurns. Excepting in the lower valleys, the climate is unfavourable to agriculture; consequently the inhabitants are chiefly engaged in trade, and in the manufacture of cotton, linen, glass, iron, paper, &c. Pop. 251,414. BIDSTONE, par. Eng. Chester; 4260 ac. Pop. 1013. BIEBRICH, or BIEBERICH, a tn. duchy of Nassau, 20m. W.S.W. Frankfort; prettily situated, r. bank, Rhine, which here forms the boundary between Nassau and Hesse-Darm stadt. It is the usual residence of the Duke, whose palace is a large and handsome edifice, surrounded by gardens and an extensive park. The railway from Wiesbaden to Mainz has a station at Biebrich. There is here also a quay, at which vessels can load and unload. The sawing and polishing of marble is carried on to some extent. Pop. 3000. BIEDENKOPF, a tn. Hesse-Darmstadt, on the Lahn, 23 m. N.N.W. Giessen; with ironworks, and considerable manufactures of cloth, serge, and hosiery. Pop. 3200. BIEL. See BIENNE. BIELA, the name of numerous small German villages, particularly in Bohemia. BIELEF, or BELEV, a tn. Russia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 62 m. S. W. Tula, 1. bank, Oka ; lat. 53 45 N.; Ion. 36 5 E. It is the second town of the government, and gives name to the Greek bishopric of Tula-and-Bielef. It has manufactures of soap, leather, and hardware. Leather- dressing and tallow-melting are carried on, and a considerable general trade. Pop. 8000. BIELEFELD, a tn. Prussian prov. Westphalia, cap. circle of same name, 38 m. E. Miinster. It has walls with ramparts, along which spacious walks have been formed; several R. Catholic and Protestant churches, a synagogue, and an orphan asylum, with a fine old castle, now turned into a prison. It has extensive manufactories of thread and linen ; the last, the best made in Germany ; and is celebrated, also, for its tobacco pipes, made of carbonated magnesia, and called meerschaum. Pop. 5800. The CIRCLE, area, 80 geo. sq. m., is of far greater importance than its extent would seem to indicate. The inhabitants are remarkable for their industry. The chief agricultural products are hemp and flax ; but bleach ing, and the weaving of common linen and damask, are carried on to an extent which makes Bielefeld one of the most im portant manufacturing districts of Prussia. The other in dustrial products are ironmongery, tobacco, woollen stuffs, leather, soap, and yarn. Pop. 45,903. BIELGOROD, a tn. Russia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 76 m. S. Koursk, on the Donetz ; lat. 50 40 N. ; Ion. 36 35 E. It comprises, properly speaking, two towns, the old and new, with three suburbs ; the houses are nearly all of wood. It is the seat of an archbishopric, contains 13 churches and two monasteries, and has three very important fairs, of a week each. Its name, which in Russia means white town, is derived from a chalk hill in the vicinity. The environs are noted for producing fine fruits. Pop. 10,318. B1EL1TZ, a tn. Austrian Silesia, gov. Briinn, circle of, and 18 m. N.E. Teschen; 42 in. W.S.W. Cracow, 1. bank, Biala, which divides Silesia from Galicia. A stone bridge connects it with the town of Biala in Galicia. It has exten sive manufactures of woollens and linens ; and dyeworks and printfields of considerable repute. A large amount of business in manufactures is done with Hungary, Italy, Poland, Russia ; and in Hungarian wine, sent to Prussia, Silesia, and Galicia, from which last province it in return receives rock-salt. Here are several charitable institutions, and a Protestant con sistory, having under its jurisdiction Moravia and Austrian Silesia. The town was totally destroyed by fire in 1808. In 1751, Bielitz was erected by the Emperor Francis I. into a duchy, and has since belonged to the princes Sulkowsky, who have here a castle, converted into public offices, with a handsome park attached. Pop. of the duchy, about 10,000 ; of the tn. 6000. BIELITZA, two tns. Russia: 1, Bielilza (Novo), gov. Mohilew, at the confluence of the Mies and Soj with the Dnieper, 63 m. N. Tchernigov. Pop. 2000. 2, Bielitza, gov. of, and 55 m. E. Grodno, r. bank, Nieinen. Pop. 900. BIELLA [Latin, Eugella], a tn. Sardinian States, Pied mont, cap. prov. of same name, gov. of, and 36m. N.N.E Turin, on the Cerno. It is the seat of a bishop, and of a district court of justice; and contains a cathedral, five parish churches, eight convents and monasteries, two hospitals, and a college. Manufactures : cloth, serges, linen, and stockings, silk, wool, and paper; and carries on some trade in silk, oil, and chestnuts. Pop. 7700. The PROVINCE is 20 m. long, and 16m. broad ; mountainous, being partly formed by spurs of the Pennine Alps ; and has no rivers, except some small affluents of the Po. It produces the best wine in Piedmont, depastures a large number of cattle, and yields copper and iron. The inhabitants are industrious, and carry on an active trade. The province is divided into 1 mandements, which are again subdivided into 78 communes. Pop. 94,958. B1ELOI, a tn. Russia, gov. of, and 80 m. N.N.E. Smolensk, on the Mega or Obsha. It has a considerable trade, particularly in grain. Pop. 3476. BIELOPOLJE, a tn. Russia, gov. of, and 108 m. N.W. Kharkof, in the Vira. It contains eight churches, has several large distilleries, and a considerable general trade. Pop. 9600. BIELO-OZERO [White Lake], a lake, Russia, gov. Novgorod, about 240 m. E. St. Petersburg; 25 m. long by 20 broad. Several streams flow into it; and it sends its waters by the Scheksua into the Wolga. It is very dee]), abounds in fish, and, by means of canals, communicates with the Onega, Sukona, and Dwina. BIELOZERSK 405 BIHAR BIELOZERSK, a tn. Russia, cap. dist. of same name, EOV. Novgorod, S. side of Lake Bielo-Ozero ; agreeably situ ated on a hill, and possessing a pure, healthy air ; indifferently built of wood. It contains 16 churches, and a seminary. Its chief manufacture is candles; and it has some trade in pitch, tallow, cattle, corn, and especially fish. Bielozersk is an ancient city, and was capital of the old principality of the same name. It was taken and ravaged by the Lithuanians in 1 678. Pop. 3000. BIELSK, a tn. Russia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 25 m. S. Bialystok, on the Biala. It is well built, and paved ; has a fine custom-house, and was once capital of a Polish palatinate. In 1831, the Poles gained a victory here over the Russians. Pop. 2400. BIENNE [German, Biel], a tn. and lake, Switzerland, can. Bern. The TOWN is situated at the N. end of the lake, at the foot of the Jura Mountains, 16 m. N.W. Bern. It is sur rounded by ancient walls and watch-towers, is well built, and approached by several avenues. It has a parish church, townhouse, public library, college, and hospital, with exten sive tanneries, dyeworks, and a cotton mill. The transit trade is considerable, from several main roads meeting at the town. Six fairs are held in the year. Pop. (principally Protestants), 4248. -The LAKE [German, Biclersee] is in length, N.E. to S.W., 10 m.; greatest breadth, 3 m. It stands 1400 ft. above the level of the sea, and has a depth of about 30 fathoms. It lies 8 ft. lower than Lake Neufchatel, whose superfluous waters it receives by the Thiel, and after wards sends with its own, by the same river, into the Aar. The scenery around is beautiful, but not bold. One of the most interesting objects is its little islet of St. Pierre, where J. J. Rousseau took up his residence for two months, in 1765, to avoid imaginary persecution. BIENTINA, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. Pisa, 2 m. N.E. Vico Pisano, at the E. base of Mount Pisano. The town is well built, and has a square, and a parish church, in which are some good pictures. Pop. 2537. BIENVENIDA, a tn. Spain, Estremadura, prov. of, and 49 m. S.E. Badajoz, in a fertile plain. It has a church, a large and substantial building ; a chapel of ease, approached by a fine avenue of poplars ; a townhouse, prison, two schools, a storehouse, and cemetery. Some little trade is done in wine, fruits, and wool. Pop. 2800. (Madoz.) BIEQUE, VIEQUE, or CRAB ISLAND, one of the Virgin Islands, W. Indies; lat. 18 7 N.; Ion. 65 C 34" W. (R.) It is uninhabited, and is about 16 m. long, E. to W., and 3 to 4 broad, N. to S. ; low towards the E., and covered with trees and bushes ; and towards the W., rising to an elevation of 600 to 800 ft. It has no harbour, but has some good road steads. The British, Danes, and Spaniards have the right of cutting wood and fishing here, but none of them are allowed to form settlements in the island. BIERTON-wmi-BKOUGHTON, par. Eng. Bucks ; 2470 ac. Pop. 605. BIERVLIET, a vil. Holland, prov. Zeeland, 9 in. E. by N. Oostburg, 1. bank, Braakman; with a church, school, and small port, from which grain is exported, and to which wood, stones, &c., are imported. In olden times, Biervliet was rather an important town, subsisting chiefly by fishing, more especially the herring-fishing. Frequent inundations almost totally destroyed this town and its fortifications, which were renewed early in the 17th century, from which period the present village dates its existence. In the 15th century, Willem Beukelsz, a native of Biervliet, invented the method of curing herring by salt. He died in 1497, and his picture is preserved in the church. Pop. 470. BIESBOSCII, a large sheet of water or marshy lake, Holland, provs. N. Brabant and S. Holland, between the towns of Dordrecht, Geertruidenburg, and Willemstad. It is also now called Hollands Diep, and forms part of the estuary of the Maas. It was formed, November 18, 1421, by an inunda tion of the sea, and, according to some, a simultaneous rise of the Waal and the Maas. Dikes and dams were broken down, and the sea burst in and overflowed 72 villages and towns, of which 34 were never more seen; and drowned 100,000 human beings, besides innumerable cattle. It is not very deep, and has numerous islands. BIETIGHEIM, a tn. Wiirtemberg, circle, Neckar, at the confluence of the Metter with the Enz, 14 m. N. Stutt gart; with woollen manufactures, dyeworks, worsted spinning- mills, and fulling-mills. Pop. 2920. BIEVENE, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. Hainaut, 34 m. E.N.E. Tournai; with considerable linen manufactures. Pop. 3414. BIGBURY, par. Eng. Devon; 4160 ac. Pop. 652. BIGBY, par. Eng. Lincoln; 1040 ac. Pop. 245. BIGGA or BIGA, one of the Shetland islands in the Sound of Yell, between the island of the latter name, and the main land. It is about 2 m. long and from 1 to 1J broad ; and is inhabited by a few families, who rear some black cattle and sheep. BIG GAR, a bor. of barony and par. Scotland, co. Lanark, Upper Ward. The town stands on a gentle acclivity, having a fine S. exposure, 25 m. S.W. Edinburgh, 4 ra. from the Caledonian Railway, on both sides the Biggar Water, that on the r. bank being of modern erection. It consists chiefly of one principal street, straight, spacious, and clean ; houses, of stone, and generally well built ; and many of the shops hand some. It is lighted with gas, and is amply supplied with water. The churches are, a parish church, a plain Gothic building, with an unfinished spire, and two U. Presbyterian churches. Schools : a parish, infant, and U. Presbyterian. There are about 140 hand-loom weavers in the town. A well- attended market is held here every Thursday. The parish contains 11 sq. m. and an entire pop. of 1865. Pop. of tn. 1395. (Local Correspondent.) BIGGLESWADE, a market tn. and par. England, co. Bedford. The town is pleasantly situated r. bank, Ivel, here crossed by two stone bridges, 9 in. S.E. Bedford. Since 1785, when a large portion of the town was destroyed by fire, it has been greatly improved, and now presents a very hand some appearance. It is lighted with gas, and well supplied with water ; has a respectable townhall, a modern structure of the Doric order, a mechanics institute, a saving s bank, and free, British, national, and infant schools, and four small charities. Places of worship : the parish church, a hand some Gothic edifice, built in 1230, but much modernized, a Wesleyan and a Baptist chapel. The making of white- thread lace and edging, and straw-plaiting, afford employment to a considerable portion of the female population. The river is navigable to the town, and affords the means of carrying on a considerable traffic in coals, timber and oats. A well- attended market for corn is held every Wednesday. The Great Northern Railway, which passes through the town, has a station near it. Area of par. 4220 ac. Pop. 3807. BIGIIA, or BIGA, a tn. Turkey in Asia, pa.sh. Anatolia, cap. sanjak of same name, in a fertile plain, about 15 m. S. the Sea of Marmora. The sanjak is ancient Troas, and celebrated as containing both Mount Ida and the plain of Troy. Its chief products are cotton, silk, wine, tanning bark, gall-nuts, and turpentine. BIGHORN, a navigable river, U. States, rising in the Rocky Mountains, in lat. 42 30 N., and falling into the Yellowstone River, at Fort Manuals, after a N.E. course of 240 m. direct distance, unobstructed by falls, through a fertile open country. BIGHTON, par. Eng. Hants ; 1580 ac. Pop. 284. BIGNOR, par. Eng. Sussex; 1180 ac. Pop. 210. BIGORRE [anc. Birjeritanus Pagus}, France, a dist. of the former prov. of Gascogne, of which the cap. was Tarbe s. It now forms almost the whole of dep. Hautes Pyrenees. BIHACS or BIHATCH, a fortress, Turkey in Europe, prov. Croatia, on an island in the Unna or Unnaly, about 50 m. E. the Adriatic. It is one of the strongest places in N. Turkey, and its possession was often keenly contested during the Turkish wars. It consists of old Hungarian stone buildings, and more modern Turkish houses ; the latter look ing as if they would tumble to pieces. A mosque has recently been constructed, and a Christian church which once stood without the walls, is now known only by its site, where the Christian rayahs still assemble for their devotions, though the Turks have so completely destroyed the building, that not a stone is standing. Owing to the lowness of the situa tion, the town is unhealthy, and the inhabitants have a sickly look. Pop. 3000. (Paton s Adriatic.) BIHAR, a co. Hungary, circle, beyond the Theiss, area, 3200 geo. sq. m. Its capital, which stands near its centre, is Grosswardein. The E. side is encircled by the Carpathian BIHAR 406 BILDESTONE Mountains, the \V. stretches out into an extensive plain. It i.s watered by the Koros, the Black Koros, and the Berettyo. All are subject to great overflows, which have covered the plains with lakes and morasses, and made them very unhealthy. A clearer air and better climate are found in the upper grounds, and also in the valley of the Korotch, which is of great extent and very beautiful. The county is on the whole fertile, producing large crops of winter and summer corn, .about 120,000 pipes of wine, and 6200 tons of hay. The higher grounds are well, the plains but indifferently, wooded. The minerals are numerous and valuable. Gold and silver are found in small quantities; copper, lead, and iron, in abundance. The woods are well supplied with game, and the rivers and lakes team with fish. Crawfish also, and land tortoises, are found in great numbers. There are several mineral springs and baths. The chief employment of the inhabitants is in pursuits connected with agriculture. There does not seem to be any manufactures. Pop. 459,200. BIIIAR, a market tn. Hungary, above co. to which it gives its name, within 3 m. of Grosswardein, with a Pro testant church. Pop. 2440. BUSK. See BIYSK. BIJANAGUR \Vijayanagara the city of triumph], a city, Hindoostan, of great antiquity, and once of great import ance, but now nearly uninhabited, and little more than a heap of ruins ; presid. Madras, prov. Bejapoor, r. bank, Toombuddra, 30 m. N.W. Bellary ; lat. 15 15 N.; Ion. 76 37 E. It stands in a plain, surrounded by enormous masses of granite, in some places assuming the appearance of hills ; and in others, presenting detached blocks, heaped together in the most extraordinary manner; sometimes obstructing all passage excepting through the narrow winding I defiles which separate the fragments. N. and W., the city is bounded by the Toombuddra, and S.E. it is enclosed partly by natural barriers, and partly by strong stone walls, the whole nearly 8 m. in circuit. The main streets, which often follow the tortuous passages between the stone blocks, are paved with large flags of granite, and are intersected at intervals by aqueducts. The remains of numerous temples, and public and private buildings, exhibit the purest style of Hindoo architecture. There is a continued succession of paved streets, now almost uninhabited, for 3 m. W. from the Toombuddra ferry. Near the W. extremity, and terminating a street 90 ft. wide, is a magnificent temple, dedicated to Mahadeva (the great god) ; it is surrounded by numerous cells for devotees ; facing the E. is a pyramidal portico, about 160 ft. high, divided into 10 stories. The attendant Brahmins are numerous ; and the establishment is well endowed. The street leading to this temple is lined by a row of handsome stone buildings, decorated with sculptures, and appropriated to the use of pilgrims during the annual festival. Another temple, near the centre of the city, is dedicated to Wittoba (an incarnation of Vishnu), and occupies an area of about 400 by 200 ft., environed by cells, and entered through a painted pyramidical portico. The temple of Kama is known by its pillars of black hornblende, covered with mythological sculp tures of the minutest elegance ; and near the ferry, among a group of picturesque temples, is a gigantic figure of Hunimaun, the huge monkey, carved in basso-rilievo. Besides these, there are the ruins of numerous other pagodas, temples, &c. Bijanagur was built between 1336 and 1343, by two brothers, named Aka Hurryhur, and Bucca Hurryhur, who ruled here in succession, the former until 1350, and the latter until 1378. In 1564, it was taken, and completely sacked, by a confedera tion of Mahometan rajahs, which caused it to be almost totally deserted. (Hamilton s East. India Gaz.) BIJA-PUR, or VIJAYA-PURA. See BEJAPOOR. BIJBAIIAR, or VIGIPARA, a tn. Cashmere, r. bank, Jailum, 20 m. S.E. Serinagur, with nothing in it worthy of notice except a large bazaar. Next to the capital, it is the largest town in the valley. Over the river here is a wooden bridge. BlJNEE, or KHUNGTAGHAUT, a principality, Hindoostan, cap. same name, prov. Bengal, adjoining Assam, consisting partly of independent territory, and partly of lands under the British jurisdiction. It lies on both sides of the Brahma pootra, and consists chiefly of a flat country, watered by the affluents of that river. The soil is suited for the production of rice (the chief crop), wheat, barley, mustard, legumes, the THE CHURCH OF SAN ANTONIO ABAD, BILBAO. From Espans Artistiea y Monumental. a very handsome suspension bridge of recent construction ; and along its banks is a wide and pleasant promenade, well planted with oak and lime trees. The chief educational estab lishment is the general college of Biscay. There is also a Latin, five public, and numerous private schools. Bilbao is uncommonly well supplied with water, which is conveyed in stone tunnels under the street, and, in order that these may not be disturbed, wheeled carriages are absolutely prohibited, all the traffic being carried on on horseback, or by means of sledges. The chief manufactures are, woollen and linen goods, silks, iron and copper ware, hats, paper, and soap. Ship and boat building is also extensively carried on. The port of Bilbao is reached by the tide, but does not admit vessels of more than 70 tons. The trade, however, is still important, though much less so than formerly. Merino wool used to be the staple export, but has suffered much by the competition of the fine wools of Saxony. One of the chief imports i.s dried cod, which is transmitted to all parts of the interior. Bilbao was twice besieged by the Carlists, without success, in 1835. The first siege was conducted by the celebrated Zumalacarregui, who received a death-wound. Pop. 10,234. BILBOROUGH, par. Eng. Notts ; 1090 ac. Pop. 267. BILBROUGII, par. Eng. city of York Ainsty; K10 ac. Pop. 216. BILDESTONE, or BILSON, a decayed market tn. and par. England, co. Suffolk. The town is 11 m. W.N.W. Ips wich. The parish church, on an elevation at a short distance W. the town, is a spacious and handsome structure. There is also a Baptist chapel here. Bildestone was at one time betel, sugar cane, and mulberry. Many of the villages are stationary, and much neater than those of Bengal, and many have plantations of betel-nut and sugar-cane; but numbers of cultivators are migratory, and, on the least dispute, with draw into the territories of Assam and Bootan. The inhabit ants are divided into two sections, the Bhakat, or worshippers of Krishna, and the Goraini, who eat pork, and indulge in strong drink. BIJNEE, the capital, is 310 m. N.N.E. Cal cutta ; lat. 26 35 N. ; Ion. 90 51 E. It is surrounded by a brick wall, has some small brick temples, and a few thatched huts ; and is the residence of the rajah. HIJORE. See BAJOUR. BILBAO, a city, Spain, cap. prov. Biscay, in a fertile plain surrounded by mountains on all sides, except towards the sea, r. bank, Nervion, 26 m. N. Vittoria ; lat. 43 15 40" N. ; Ion. 2 54 W. (R.) The appearance of the town, when viewed from any of the heights around it, is very picturesque. It is generally well built. The houses are usually of three stories, with ornamental facades ; and some of the principal streets are straight and spacious, though the majority of them are narrow and winding. All of them, however, are remark ably clean and well paved. There are, properly, only two squares in the town, but both of them are handsome. The principal buildings are, the four parish churches, several mon asteries and convents, the hospital, a magnificent stone build ing, supported by voluntary subscription, and containing 600 beds ; the custom-house, townhall, court-houses, the theatre, and slaughter-house. The last, which serves also as the flesh market, is a fine building of the Tuscan order, and is kept perfectly clean by a copious fountain, which is constantly flowing. The river is crossed by three bridges, one of them BILEDULGERID 407 BILSTON noted for its manufactures of blue cloth and blankets, but both have fallen into decay. The market which used to be held here has been discontinued for some time. Area of par. 1420 ac. Pop. (1841), 857. (Local Correspondent.) BILEDULGERID, an extensive and little-known tract, N. Africa, lying between the S. declivity of Atlas and the Great Desert, and between Fezzan on the E., and Cape Non, on the Atlantic, on the W. It consists of gently-inclined plains, which spread to the foot of the mountains, and which are nearly as sandy and barren as the desert itself, excepting along the courses of the numerous streams descending from the S. slopes of the Atlas Mountains, all of which are absorbed by the sand, and many of which are strongly impregnated with salt. Along these streams date-palms abound, which, with camels, horses, and cattle, form the sole wealth of the inhabitants. The real name of the place is said to be Beled-el-Jereed, which has been translated, by some, into the land of dates, by others, into the parched country. Both would, to a certain extent, apply, as the date-tree flourishes luxuriantly in its limited localities, while an utter sterility characterizes all other por tions of the country. BILGORAY, a tn. Russian Poland, dist. of, and 50 m. S. Lublin, 1. bank, Lada. It contains three churches, and has several important fairs. Pop. 1 600. BILIARSK [anc. Boulimer], a tn. Russia, gov. and about 80 m, S.E. Kazan, 1. bank, Tcherem-Kana. It is a place of great antiquity ; and, though now decayed, its former magnificence is attested by numerous ruins, particularly those of an ancient temple, which is still held in great veneration by the Tartars. Pop. about 2500. BILIN [Bohemian, Byllna; Latin, Belina], a post tn. Bo hemia, circle, Leitmeritz, 42 m. N.W. Prague, prettily situ ated in the vale of the Bila. It is walled, contains a fine old castle, built in 1680, and one of more modern date, in which is a good collection of minerals, an armoury, and a museum. In the town there are several churches, chapels, cotton-spin ning mills, and beet-root sugar manufactories. Within 1 m. of the town are mineral acid springs, much resorted to, and from which 900,000 jars of water are exported annually. The waste water of the wells is evaporated, and the salts and mag nesia thus obtained form important articles of commerce. In the vicinity are found coal and garnet. Here is also the sin gular basaltic rock called Borzenberg or Biliner Stein. BILLERICAY, a small market tn. England, co. Essex, on a hill, 24 m. E.N.E. London. It consists of two principal streets, one of which is straight, spacious, and about half a mile in length. It is amply supplied with water from numerous and copious springs, and is well lighted with gas ; and contains a plain, but neat market-house, in which a corn market is held every Tuesday. The churches are, the district church, having au ancient and handsome tower adorned with turrets ; and a chapel belonging to the Independents, a very tasteful struc ture. Principal public schools : a national and British school, also a respectable academy, several minor schools, and a thriv ing mechanics institute. No manufactures, and the chief business of the town is limited to a retail trade. The scenery in the vicinity is exceedingly beautiful, and from several points extensive and delightful views are obtained. Pop. 1284. (Local Correspondent.} BILLESDON, a small market tn. and par. England, co. of, and 8 in. E. Leicester. In the town are a church, Baptist chapel, alms-houses, and other charities ; also a school-house, erected in 1650. In the vicinity are vestiges of a strong Roman encampment and pagan temple ; and, though the trade and population are now inconsiderable, Billesdon appears to have been, in the time of the Romans, a place of some conse quence. A fair is held in April. Area of par., including the chapelries of Goadby and Rolleston, 4430 ac. Pop. 878. BILLESLEY, par. Eng. Warwick ; 750 ac. Pop. 31. BILLING, two pars. Eng.: 1, Billing (Great), par. Northampton; 1290 ac. Pop. 401. 2, Bitting (Little), par. Northampton; 890 ac. Pop. 101. BILLINGBOROUGH, par. Eng. Lincoln; 2020 ac. Pop. 999. BILLINGFORD, two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Norfolk; 1650 ac. Pop. 353. 2, Billingsford or I iiicston, par. Nor folk; 1100 ac. Pop. 219. BILLINGHAM, par. Eng. Durham; 8970ac. P. 1053. B1LLINGHAY, par. Eng. Lincoln; 7630 ac. P. 2095. BILLINGHURST, par. Eng. Sussex ; 6830 ac. P. 1439. BILLINGSLEY, par. Eng. Salop ; 1560 ac. Pop. 149. BILLITON, BILLETON, or BLITONG, an isl. Indian Ar chipelago, belonging to Palembang in Sumatra. It lies E. of Banka and W. of Borneo, between lat. 2 3 and 3= 20 S. ; Ion. 107 28 and 108 22 E. ; rises to a considerable height above the sea, and is surrounded with dangerous rocks and shoals. Billiton, as well as Banka, contains vast deposits of tin, which the Dutch Government keeps in reserve in case of the ex haustion of that metal in the larger island. At present, the iron and steel ores only are worked, and are found, without much trouble, in the form of slightly oxydized iron. It produces the same woods as Banka. The inhabitants live chiefly by fishing, and the sale of trepang, tortoise-shell, wax, rosin, and edible birds nests. They were, for a long period, notorious pirates; but having, in 1821, had the audacity to attack and plunder a Dutch gun-boat conveying stores and money to Sara- pua, the Dutch Government made Billiton a military post, and gradually brought the island entirely under its sway. The inhabitants, being excellent boat-builders, were employed in constructing light cruisers, which have proved of great use in suppressing piracy. Billiton was recognized as a Dutch possession by the treaty of London, in 1824. Pop. 6000. BILLOCKLY, or BILLOCKBY, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 260 ac. Pop. 71. BILLOM, a tn. France, dep. Puy-de-D6me, 13 m. E.S.E. Clermont, on a hill in a fertile district. The town is ancient, and in the 1 5th century was surrounded with walls, and had a flourishing university. At that period its tanneries were very considerable, but the walls have now disappeared, and the trade has long been on the decline. Still, however, it has manufactures of linen, serge, delft, and coarse earthen ware, bricks, and tiles, and a considerable trade in hemp (the great staple of the district), thread, wool, honey, corn, cattle, wood, and tanned leather for gloves. Storms are of frequent occurrence, and the great quantity of rain that falls at Billom has become proverbial. Pop. 3265. BILL-QUAY, a vil. England, co. Durham, 3 m. E. Gateshead. It has extensive works for .smelting lead ore, and making litharge and red lead ; green glass bottle-works on a large scale ; a tar, naphtha, and turpentine distillery; and an establishment for distilling oil from bones ; also manufac tures for preparing colours, and making mustard, besides a large ship-building yard, and floating dock. BILLY, par. Irel. Antrim ; 17,330 ac. Pop. 7277. BILMA, a tn. in N.W. Africa, Sahara, and in the W, limit of the Tibboo country, of which it is the cap. ; lat. 18 30 N.; Ion. 13 30 E. It stands in a hollow, on the oasis called Wady Kawas, and is surrounded by low mud walls, which, with the houses within, are mean and miserable. The women of this town, says Major Denham, are of a superior class to those of the minor towns ; some having ex tremely pleasing features, while the pearly white of their regular teeth is beautifully contrasted with the glossy black of their skin. They are further described as dancing with great taste and skill, and being altogether exceedingly attrac tive. Bilma is the residence of the Sultan, and derives fur ther importance from the caravans which pass through it on the road between Murzook and Bornou, and from its vicinity to some salt lakes, from which large quantities of fine crys tallized salt are collected, and sent to Bornou and Soodan. Dates also grow here abundantly, but other provisions are scarce and dear. BILNEY, two pars. Eng.: 1, Bilney (East), par. Nor folk; 670 ac. Pop. 218. 2, Bilney (West), par. Norfolk; 2750 ac. Pop. 298. BILSA (BILVESA), a large tn. Hindoostan, prov. Malwah, belonging to Scindia, r. bank, Betwa, near its junction with the Bess, 34 m. N.E. Bhopaul ; lat. 23 33 N. ; Ion. 77 56 E. It is surrounded by a stone wall, and some years since con tained 5000 houses. The vicinity is celebrated over all India for its tobacco. BILSBY-AND-THUKLUY, par. Eng. Lincoln; 2960 ac. Pop. 584. BILSINGTON, par. Eng. Kent ; 2800 ac. Pop. 385. BILSTHORPE, par. Eng. Notts ; 1600 ac. Pop. 244. BILSTON, a market tn. England, co. Stafford, 3 m. S.E. Wolverhampton, on a rising ground, and extending nearly 2 m. in length. It is irregularly built, but the principal BILTON 408 BINGEN street contains some substantial and handsome houses. It is lighted with gas, but very inefficiently; the smaller streets are nnpaved, and the larger macadamized. There are few public buildings, and none of any note. The church is a neat edifice, in the Grecian style, with a low tower. St. Mary s chapel is also a handsome structure, in the perpendicular Eng lish style, built in 1829. A third church lias been recently erected. There are places of worship, besides, for Baptists, Independents, Primitive and Wesleyan Methodists, Metho dists of the new connection, and R. Catholics; also a small | Welsh chapel. Schools numerous, including what is called the Cholera Orphan school, instituted for the gratuitous edu cation of the children under 12 years of age, of those who died of cholera in the town in the autumn of 1832, amounting to no fewer than 742 in less than seven weeks, leaving 450 des titute children. The manufacturing industry of Bilston is very great. The noise and smoke of engines a.nd furnaces is heard and seen in all directions, and for many miles around the town. The manufactures include tin, japanned and en amelled wares of every kind; iron-wire, nails, screws, iron gates, and palisades, machinery, steam-engines, &c. There are also some mills for forming pig-iron into bars, and many iron and brass foundries. Coarse pottery is made with the clay which is found in the neighbourhood in great abundance. A particularly fine sand for casting, and a very hard stone, suitable for grindstones, are also obtained here in great plenty. Pop. 20,181. BILTON, two pars. Eng. : 1, A par. and small vil. War wick; 1820 ac. Pop. 623. 2, A par. Ainsty of the city of York; 4150 ac. Pop. 881. BIMA, a seaport tn., isl. Sumbawa, Asiatic Archipelago, cap. dist. of same name, N. side of the island, and near its E. extremity, at the head of the Bay of Bima. It is a place of pome importance, being the residence of the Sultan, of a Dutch agent, and having a considerable export trade in rice, pis- tacia-nuts, timber, wax, and horses. During the dreadful volcanic eruption of the Tomboro Mountain, 40 m. distant, which occurred in this island in April 1815, many of the houses in Bima were choked up with ashes, while the lower parts were inundated with the sea, which, though there was a perfect calm, rolled in upon the shore. The Bay of Bima stretches 21 to 24 m. into the island, with soundings of GO or 80 fathoms at the entrance, 2 or 3 m. inside of which the bay narrows, and has on each shore a native fort. Rugged Point, the E. entrance into the bay, is in lat. 8 11 S.; Ion. 118 51 E. BIMBIA, a river, W. Africa, falling into the Bight of | Biafra, W. the Cameroons ; lat. 4 N. ; Ion. 9 20 E. On its banks are numerous villages, built on a beautiful amphi theatre of rocky ground. The inhabitants, who are of the Dualla nation, are principally occupied in the collection of palm-oil, which forms the staple article of their traffic. In 1833, their chief placed himself under British protection. BIMLIPATAM, a small seaport tn. Hindoostan, Carnatic, 16m. N.N.E. Vizagapatam; lat. 17 53 N. ; Ion. 83 22 E. The only tolerable buildings are a few houses in the European style near the beach, and a temple on the slope of a moun tain that bounds the town on the S. Traces of a Dutch fort still remain. A considerable trade is carried on from hence in native craft. BINAB, a tn. Persia, prov. Azerbijan, 1. bank, Sofi Chai, 55 m. S.S. W. Tabreez, and 8 m. E. Lake Urumia ; lat. 37 1 7 N. ; Ion. 46 E. It is abundantly supplied with water, and is one of the neatest and cleanest towns of Persia ; having several good caravansaries, and a bazaar. It is surrounded for many miles by orchards and vineyards ; and, from its mild climate, is well adapted for the cultivation of grapes, vast quantities of which are exported to Tabreez. It is a depend ency of Maraghah ; yielding a considerable revenue, and fur nishing a quota of 400 men to the Azerbijan army. Binab is quite a modern settlement, no mention being made of it by any of the Oriental geographers. Pop. about 7500. BINABOLA, or TWELVE PINS, a group of mountains, Ireland, co. Galway, about midway between Lough Corrib and Aghris Head, consisting of two distinct mountain-ranges, connected by an elevated pass called Maam Ina, and occupy ing a space of about 25 sq. in. The highest summit is 2400 ft. above the level of the sea, and the lowest about 1800 ft It Ls intersected by glens, and encircled by lakes, and in most places is very precipitous. Quartz is the principal formation, but towards the foot of the mountains limestone abounds. BINACRE,orBENACRE,par.Eng.Sufiolk; 1660ac. P.194. BINASCO, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, cap. dist. same name, prov. of, and 12 m. N. by W. Pavia, and inter sected by the Pavia Canal. The town is defended by a castle, and has a handsome church. It was burnt by the French in 1796. Pop. 1182. The DISTRICT is well irrigated, arid produces fine crops. Pop. 9338. BINBROOKE (St. Gabriel and St. Mary), a united par. Eng. Lincoln ; 6070 ac. Pop. 1209. BINCHE, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. Hainaut, nearly midway between Mons and Charleroi. It is pretty; its en virons are picturesque; and it contains several handsome buildings; among others a church, a communal house, a small college, and an hospital. The manufactures are considerable, including metal forging, cutlery, glassworks, soapworks, sugar refineries, hat factories, tanneries, three breweries and distil leries. Some hundreds of women are engaged in flowering lace. Binche was walled, in 1110, by Baldwin the builder, Count of Hainaut ; and burnt, in 1534, by Henry II. of France. Pop. 5131. BINCOMBE, par. Eng. Dorset; 1220 ac. Pop- 170. BINDRABUND, a large tn. India, prov. of, and 35 m. N.N. W. Agra, r. bank, Jumna ; lat. 27 37 N. ; Ion. 77 43 E. It is chiefly famous as having been the scene of the youthful sports of Krishna, the eighth avatar of Vishnu, who is an object of enthusiastic admiration to the Hindoos, and to whom many temples, still existing, were dedicated. Some of these HINDOO TEMl LKS AT BINI)I!AIlt*KP. are of a remarkable style of architecture, and the great cruci form pagoda is esteemed one of the most massy and elaborate works of Brahminical superstition. There are likewise several sacred pools, where the pilgrims perform their ablutions, and wash away their sins. Different parts of the neighbouring woods are pointed out as the abode of ancient Hindoo saints and sages, and which are now occupied by religious mendicants. B1NEG AR, par. Eng. Somerset ; 680 ac. Pop. 338. BINFIELD, par. and vil. Eng. Berks; 3530 ac. P. 1242. BI NGEN , a tn . grand duchy Hesse- Darmstadt, prov. of, and on 1. bank,Rhine,l 5 m. W. Mainz. It contains about 520 houses, and is the place of sale for the wines produced in its vicinity, which are much esteemed. It has also a considerable trade in corn, several extensive tanneries, and manufactures of tobacco, and carries on an active traffic on the Rhine. It is a place of high antiquity, having existed under the Romans. The bridge across the Nahe into Bingen, is said to have been constructed by Drusus, the Roman general. On an eminence near the town are the ruins of an old fort, called Klopp, or Drusus Castle, commanding a fine view. The navigation of the Rhine was formerly obstructed near Bingen, by a ledge of rocks that ran obliquely across the river; but by blasting, BINGHAM 409 BIRIOUSSA a channel of 210 ft. width, called Linger Loch [liole of Bin- gen], has been opened in them, through which vessels now pass in safety. In its vicinity are the Mausethurm [mouse tower], the retreat ?.nl death-place of Bishop Hatto of Mainz, the castle of Eheinstein, and other architectural remains. Pop. 4415. BINGHAM, a small market tn. and par. England, co. Notts. The town, 9 m. E. Nottingham, has two principal streets, and a few smaller, a large church, several dissenting chapels, a poorhouse, some parochial and Sunday schools, and other charities. The petty sessions for the hundred of Bingham are held here, and it is one of the polling places for the S. division of the county. Two annual cattle-fairs are held, in February and May ; and two others, one in Whitsun- week and one in November, for hops, &c. The par., intersected by the Grantham Canal, has an area of 2930 ac. Pop. 1998. BINGPIAMTON, a post vil., U. States, New York, cap. Broome co., 138 m. S.W. Albany. It contains a court-house, jail, county clerk s office, an academy, nine churches, two Presbyterian, one Episcopal, one Baptist, two Methodist, one E. Catholic, and two African ; is surrounded by a rich agri cultural country, and exports a large amount of lumber. Pop. (1840), 2800. BINGLEY, a tn. and par. England, co. York, W. Riding. The town lies on the sides and summit of a gentle eminence, between the Aire, and the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, 36 m. W.S.W. York, and consists chiefly of one long street, is toler ably well built, lighted with gas, and amply supplied with water. The churches and schools comprise the parish church, a spacious and venerable structure, with a square embattled tower, in the later English style ; Baptist, Independent, Primi tive Methodist and Wesleyan chapels, a free grammar, na tional, and several day and Sunday schools. The manufacture of worsted and cotton is carried on here, and in the neigh bourhood, to a great extent. There are also paper manu factories, and some trade in malt. The town is altogether rapidly increasing in importance and prosperity. Area of par. 13,180 ac. Pop. 11,850; of tn. 10,157. BINGTANG, PULU-BINTAM, or BIXTAM, an isl. Indian Archipelago, between lat. 1 10 N. and 1 10 S.; Ion. 104 15 and 104 37 E.; bounded, N. by the Strait of Singapore, E. and S. by that of Riou, and AV. by the China Sea. It is 30 m. in length, and nearly the same in breadth. Numerous small islands and reefs make its waters dangerous to seamen, to whom it and some of the neighbouring islets are best known under the name of Riou, a port in the small island of Tand- jong-Pinang. Bingtang is subject to a Viceroy of the Sultan of Linga, but the supremacy of the Dutch is fully recognized. It contains GOOO ginger gardens. Pop., with surrounding islets, 6000. BIN HAM, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 2200 ac. Pop. 502. BINIC, a seaport tn. and com. France, dep. Cotes-du- Nord, 6 m. N.N.W. St. Brieuc, at the foot of a semicircular hill, whose base is washed by the sea. A wooden bridge across the river Ic unites the communes of Pordic and Binic. The port has a depth of above 18 ft. in spring, and about 8 ft. in ebb tides, and is one of the most convenient on the coast of Brittany. It receives annually between 150 and 160 ves sels of various sizes. Twenty-nine belong to Binic, and of these, 18 to 20, from 120 to 300 tons burden, are engaged in the Newfoundland cod-fishery. Pop. 2324. BINLEY, par. Eng. Warwick ; 2470 ac. Pop. 233. BINSEY, par. Eng. Oxford; 470 ac. Pop. 61. BUNSTED, two pars. Eng. : 1, Hants ; 7060 ac. Pop. 1055. 2, Sussex; 1010 ac. Pop. 111. BINTON, par. Eng. Warwick ; 1260 ac. Pop. 269. BINTEEE, par. Eng. Norfolk; 2120 ac. Pop. 409. BIOBIO, the largest river in Chili, prov. Concepcion. Its head streams, which are numerous, rise in the Andes, and, uniting at Nacimiento, or about lat. 37 20 S., form the Bio- bio, which falls into the Pacific at the town of Concepcion, lat. 36 49 30" S. ; Ion. 73 5 30" W. (K.), after a total course of about 150 m., but not more than 80 m. from the junction of the head streams at the point above named. It is about 2 m. wide at its mouth, but is too shallow for large vessels; small river barges, however, and canoes, navigate it as far up as Nacimiento. The Biobio forms the N. boundary of the ter ritory of Araucania. BIR, or BEER [anc. HirtJia], a tn. Asiatic Turkey, 62 m. VOL. I. N.E. Aleppo, on the side of a steep hill, 1. bnnk, Euphrates, which is here about 600 yards wide, and from 10 to 12ft. deep. The town is surrounded, on the land side, by a wall, with towers at the angles, and pierced with loop-holes. The streets are narrow, but clean. It contains several mosques with tall minarets, a few coffee-houses, a bath, a bazaar, and a caravansary. In the centre, on a steep rock, is an old ruined fortification. The rocks on which Bir is built are of chalk, and the houses of the same material, the whiteness of which, in bright sunshine, is painful to the eyes. Bir has long been the point where caravans and travellers, from Aleppo to Orfah, Diarbekir, Bagdad, and Persia, cross the Euphrates, which they do in boats of a peculiar description, 40 ft. long by 10 broad, 15 ft. high at the prow, and only 2 ft. at the stern. It is also the point from which it is proposed to navi gate the Euphrates by steam. Pop. between 3000 and 4000. BIRBHOOM. See BEERBHOOM. BIRCH, two pars. Eng.: 1, Birch (Great], par. Essex; 2940 ac. Pop. 794. 2, Birch (Little], par. Hereford; 930 ac. Pop. 375. BIRCH AM, three pars. Eng. Norfolk:!, Bircham (Great), 3530 ac. Pop. 51 1. 2, Bircham (Newton], 1 150 ac. Pop. 107. 3, Bircham (Tofts), 1450 ac. Pop. 142. BIRCHANGER, par. Eng. Essex ; 1150 ac. Pop. 386. BIRCHINGTON, par. and small seaport, Eng. Kent ; 1760 ac. Pop. 874. BIRCHOLT, par. Eng. Kent; 310 ac. Pop. 37. BIRD ISLAND. See AYES ISLAND. BIRD ISLAND, numerous small islands:!, An isl. Banda Sea; lat. 5 29 S.; Ion. 130 1 E. (R.) 2, One of the Falkland Islands, about 1 J m. long, and 410 ft. high ; lat. 52 11 S.; Ion. 60 54 W. (R.) 3, An isl. Ladrones, about 2 m. in extent, and having rocks round it; lat. 16 1 N.; Ion. 146 3 E. (R.) 4, An isl. Low Archipelago, called also Heknerd, about 2tV m. in extent, and having a lagoon in it; lat. (N. point) 17" 48 S.; Ion. 143 7 W. (R.) 5, An isl., S.W. coast, Papua; lat. 4 19 S.; Ion. 133 28 E. (R.) 6, An uninhabited isl. Sandwich group ; lat. 23 6 N. ; Ion. 161 57 W. (R.) 7, A low isl. Seychelle Archipelago, in which water may be procured by digging. It is about 2 m. in extent; lat. (N.E. point) 3 42 42" S.; Ion. 55 15 42" E. (R.) 8, An isl., W. coast, Africa, about 2 m. long; lat. 13 39 30" N.; Ion. 16 40 W. (R.) BIRD ISLANDS. 1, A cluster of low islands, N.E. coast, Australia, named by Capt. Cook; lat. 11 46 S.; Ion. 143 9 E. (R.) 2, A small cluster of islands, called also Chaon, off Algoa Bay, Cape Colony, extending over a space about 7 m. by 2 m. ; lat. (E. one) 33 52 6" S. ; Ion. 26 18 E. (R.) 3, Two small islands, N.W, the Magdalen Islands, Gulf of St. Lawrence ; lat. (E. one) 47 51 N. ; Ion. 61 9 42" W. (R.) BIRDBROOK, par. Eng. Essex ; 2640 ac. Pop. 557. BIRDHAM, par. Eng. Sussex; 1930 ac. Pop. 506. BIRDINBURY, par. Eng. Warwick; 1180 ac. P. 201. BI RDSALL, par. Eng. York, E. Riding; 3650 ac. P. 267. BIRGHAM, a small vil. Scotland, co. Berwick, on the Tweed, 15 m. S.W. Berwick, formerly called Brigliam, from a bridge which, it is supposed, united the two kingdoms at this point. The village is worthy of notice on account of its historical associations only. It was here that Hugh, Bishop of Durham, ambassador of Henry II. of England, and Wil liam the Lion of Scotland, attended by bis bishops, earls, and barons, met on the subject of the Saladin tenth, .1 tax which Henry proposed to levy in Scotland, as he had done in Eng land, to carry on a new crusade ; but which William there in formed the bishop he could not prevail on his people to pay. It was here, also, that a numerous meeting of the community of Scotland assembled to express their approbation of the pro posed man-rage of Prince Edward, son of Edward I., with Margaret of Scotland, but which, in consequence of the death of the latter, never took place. In July of the same year, 1290, another meeting was held at Birgham, at which were present the Bishop of Durham and five others, who ratified, in the name of the King of England, certain measures taken by the Scots to secure the independence o"f their kingdom. BIRIOUSSA, a river, Siberia, forming part of the bound ary between govs. Irkutsk and Yenesei. It is one of the head streams of the Ona, an affluent of the Tchuna, and has a N. course of about 200 m. 2 BIRIOUTSCH 410 BIRMINGHAM BIRIOUTSCH, a tn. European Russia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 80 m. S.S.W. Yoroneje, 1. bank, Sosna, a tributary of the Don. It is surrounded by an earthen ram part, and a ditch of considerable depth, contains seven churches, and has four important annual fairs. Pop., chiefly agricul tural, about 6000. A stream of the same name, near the town, is remarkable for the pearls occasionally obtained from its oysters, and the bones and teeth of elephants often exposed upon its banks. BIRKBY, or BRETBY, par. Eng. York, N. Riding; 3400 ac. Pop. 256. BIRKENFELD, a principality, cap. same name, belonging to the grand duchy of Oldenburg, but locally separated from it, 1. bank, Rhine, N. of Hesse-Homburg, and surrounded on all sides by the Prussian governments of Trier and Coblentz. It has an area of 154 geo. sq. m., and is divided into the three bailiwicks of Birkenfeld, Oberstein, and Rohfelden. The surface is generally rugged, the soil by no means fertile, and the climate, particularly in the neighbourhood of the Hunds- riicken, cold and severe. The chief streams are, the Nahe, Frais, Idar, and Kanne. The wood is principally oak and beech ; and the minerals are, coal, iron, roofing-slate, and whet stones. Pop. 28,669. The TOWN is 24 m. E.S.E. Treves or Trier, with a sharpening and polishing mill, linen manufac tures and tanneries. Pop. 2385. Numerous small places, particularly in Prussia, have the same name. B1RKENHEAD, a market tn. and port, England, co. Cheshire, on the estuary of the Mersey, here 134(J yards wide, opposite Liverpool ; lat. 53 23 N. ; Ion. 3 2 W. It is of entirely modern erection, and owes its formation and the prosperity which has attended it, to its commodious docks. It has five principal streets, running from N.W. to S.E. ; crossed at right angles by a number of shorter ones ; a handsome square, having an area of 6J ac., four of which are en closed and planted with shrubbery ; a townhouse that cost 10,000 ; market on an extensive scale, which cost 30,000; slaughter-houses on the most approved plan, and ranges of dwelling-houses for workmen, unusu ally complete in their accommodation and in all their appointments. The system of drainage and sewerage is also singularly complete. The width of courts is regulated, and the streets are generally wider than in the best parts of most towns. It is well paved, lighted with gas, and abund antly supplied with water. There are four churches belong ing to the establishment, all handsome edifices, in various styles of architecture, a Scotch church, five dissenting places of worship, and a R. Catholic chapel, five schools in connec tion with the parish church, three with Trinity church, three with St. John s, and two with St. Anne s, besides schools in connection with the dissenting chapels. There is also a theo logical college, where young men are prepared as clergymen for foreign missions. A mechanics institute was established in 1840. The benevolent institutions comprise an hospital or infirmary, a lying-in hospital, and a dispensary. In the N.W. part of the township, on rising ground, a large public park beautifully laid out, has been formed, having a noble carriage entrance, in the Ionic style. Its magnificent docks, however, form the great distinguishing features of Birkenhead, and are the sources of its prosperity. When the works are completed, there will be a total accommodation of more than 200 ac. The dock warehouses are on an equally magnificent scale. The area of the principal or floating dock will be 120 ac.; and its depth 19 ft. The communication with Liverpool is kept up by small steamboats, which ply from each side of the river every quarter of an hour. Birkenhead is connected by railway with Chester, and thence with all parts of England. The rails are brought round all the quays of the docks. Pop. of the township, which includes Birkenhead and a few neighbouring places, about 23,000. BlRKlN.par. Eng. York, W. Riding; 5890 ac. P. 921. BIRLEY, par. Eng. Hereford; 1260 ac. Pop. 172. BIRLING, par. Eng. Kent; 2240 ac. Pop. 511. BI RLINGH AM, par. Eng. Worcester ; 1450 ac. P. 390. BIRMAII. See BURMAH. BIRMINGHAM [anc. Brememum}, one of the greatest manufacturing towns of England, N.W. extremity of co. War wick, division of its name, him. Hemlingford, on the borders of the counties of Stafford and Worcester; 102 m. N.W. Lon don, and 112J by railway. It stands nearly in the centre of England, on slightly elevated ground, having an ascent on all sides but the N.W., is somewhat circular in form, and about 5j^ to 6 m. in circumference. The streets are generally wind ing, few of them running parallel to each other, and still fewer being perfectly straight ; many of them, however, are imposing, and are lined with handsome buildings. The lower part of the town, consisting chiefly of old houses, is crowded with workshops and warehouses, and inhabited principally by manufacturers ; but the upper part contains a number of new, broad, and regular streets ; houses well built, chiefly of brick, the more recently erected being, in most instances, faced with Roman cement and plaster. They are lighted with gas, and the main streets, upon the whole, well paved ; in the smaller, however, as in many other towns in England, the footways are laid with boulders, making very uncomfortable walking to unaccustomed feet. THE TOWNHALL, BIRMINGHAM From Nature and on inxxl. by C. W. Rulelyffe. Public Buildings. The most remarkable of these are the townhall, and free grammar-school; the latter founded and chartered by Edward VI. The townhall, situated at the E. end of Paradise Street, and erected for municipal purposes, public meetings, and musical performances, is the great orna ment of the town, and is so lofty and large, that it is seen from almost every part of it. The building is rectangular, and after the model of the temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome. It rests on a rustic basement of 20 ft. in height, pierced with doors and windows, and is surrounded by a series of Corin thian columns supporting entablatures above. It is 160 ft. long, 100 broad, and 83 high, and is of brick, faced with marble. The large saloon or hall is 1 45 ft. long, 65 wide, and 65 high. It can accommodate above 4000 persons sitting ; and contains a large orchestra, capable of holding 400 per formers, with a lofty, wide, and deep recess for the organ, one of the largest and finest in the world. The free grammar- school, a beautiful structure, erected in 1834 at an expense of about 50,000, stands nearly in the centre of the town. The architect, Mr. Barry, has employed in it the same general style as that which he has adopted in the new Houses of Par liament. It is of a regular quadrangular figure, 174 ft. in front, 25 wide, and 60 high, and embodies an adaptation of the collegiate, civil, and ecclesiastical pointed architecture of the latest Gothic or Tudor style. It contains both a clnssical and a commercial school; and the education given in it has been eulogised as consisting of a happy combination of classic lore and practical science. In 1847, the number of pupils was 1200, about 400 of these being in the central schools, and 800 in three branch schools, erected in suitable BIRMINGHAM 411 BIRMINGHAM situations for the children of artizans and others, thus con veying the benefits of this noble foundation very extensively. The institution is now open to persons of every denomination. It is under the management of 20 governors, and the bishop of the diocese. Among the other public buildings of note, besides several of the churches to be afterwards mentioned, are the Queen s college (late the royal school of medicine and surgery), opposite the townhall, in Paradise Street, founded in 1828, containing most valuable and extensive museums of human and comparative anatomy, incorporated by royal charter in 1843 up to 1846 open to medical students only, but now open to all classes of students, and entitled to issue certificates for degrees in the university of London, in arts, law, or medicine ; Queen s hospital, lying-in hospital, deaf and dumb institution, blue-coat school, blind asylum, Bingley exhibition hall, Hebrew school, Odd-fellows hall, bank ruptcy court, the building belonging to the society of arts, the theatre, the post-office, the news-room in Bennett s Hill, the philosophical society, the polytechnic institution, the dis pensary, and the new market-hall, wash houses, and baths ; and to these may be added the public office, the proof-house, the London and North-western Railway station, the general hospital, the cavalry and infantry barracks, the Birmingham new and theological library, the extensive and commodious j baths at Lady Well and Balsalt, and the statue of Lord j Nelson, a colossal figure in bronze, in the centre of the open ; area called the Bull Ring. New barracks, on a large scale, are about to be built at Birmingham. Places of WorsJiip. Birmingham, within the borough, which includes Edgbaston, a suburban par. and town, and part of Aston, contains 23 churches and chapels in connection with the Establishment. The old parish church of St. Mnr- | to have been founded in the seventh or eighth century, though its pre sent exterior does not seem earlier in date than the 13th, is not remark able either for grandeur or architectural beauty, but has a large massive tower, sur mounted by a tall symmetri cal spire, about 210 ft. high; measures are now in pro gress for re- building it. The interior contains some fine and remarkably curious monuments of the De Birming- hams, the ancient lords of the place. St. Philip s Church, erected in 1725, on the most elevated spot in the town, is a beautiful structure, in the Palladian or Italian style, con sisting of a pedestal line, of good height, a range of lofty Doric pilasters, enclosing the large and well-proportioned windows, and a handsome balustrade. The tower, carried upwards by a series of carved figures, is surmounted by a dome and cupola. St. George s Church, erected in 1822, is a handsome and graceful structure, in the decorated English style, with a lofty, square, embattled tower. St. Thomas s Church, the most capacious in the town, built in 1829, gives a fine specimen of Doric architecture. The other churches are St. Mary s, belonging formerly to the parish of St. Mar tin, erected by subscription in 1744 ; St. Paul s, erected by subscription in 1779, somewhat heavy in its architecture, but relieved by an extremely light and elegant spire ; Clirist Church, a large, plain, and commodious stone building, ad mirably situated on an angular tongue of land, formed by the convergence of several important streets ; St. Bartho- TH E BULL RING AND ST. HAKTIS CHDECH, lomew s, a plain brick building, with a powerful organ, by England, and a handsome altar-piece ; St. Peter s, formerly a chapel of ease to St. Philip s, in the Grecian style, with a massive Doric portico, in imitation of the Parthenon at Athens ; St. James s Chapel, a chapel of ease to Aston Church, as are also St. John s, built in 1735, and Holy Trinity Chapel, a handsome Gothic building; All Saints , erected in 1833, a large and handsome brick structure, interspersed with Bath stone ; and Bishop Ryder s Church, so called as a testimonial to the memory of the prolate of that name, by whose example and influence subscriptions were raised for its erection. To these may be added, the old and the new church at Edgbaston, and several churches recently built in those populous parts of the adjoining parishes, included within the Parliamentary boundary of the borough. The dissenting places of worship are very numerous. There are a large R. Catholic cathedral, and three or four chapels ; ten Wesleyan Methodist chapels, three new connection, and one belonging to the Wesleyan Association, besides several smaller, belonging to other sec tions of Methodists ; eight Baptist chapels, seven Independent chapels, five places of worship for Unitarians, an elegant new Presbyterian church in Broad Street, and a chapel belonging to Lady Huntingdon s connection; a New Jerusalem church, a Quakers meeting-house, and a Jews synagogue. Some of these places of worship are very elegant and spacious build ings. The most remarkable is the E. Catholic cathedral of St. Chad, erected at an expense of 60,000; it contains a melodious peal of bells ; contiguous is a handsome building-, the residence of the R. Catholic bishop and clergy. Charitable Institutions. Amongst the charitable institu tions, the most important are the general hospital, supported by subscriptions, and by the profits arising from the triennial musical festi val ; and the Queen s hospi tal, founded in 1840. There are, besides, the general and self-supporting dispensaries, the lying-in - hospital, the eye infirmary, an institution for the relief of deafness, the general institu tion for the blind, the deaf and dumb asy lum, and the Magdalene asylum at Is lington. In va rious parts of the town are numerous almshouses, for the aged and infirm poor ; and sundry other charitable insti tutions, the names of which need not be here specified. Schools, Literary and Scientific Institutions, &c. Besides the free grammar-school, and Queen s college, already de scribed, the principal educational establishments of Birming ham are: the blue-coat school, with accommodation for 200 boys, and 100 girls; the education includes the ordinary ele mentary branches, and religious instruction; the girls are also taught sewing, knitting, and household work, and are prepared for domestic servants; the Protestant Dissenters charity school, established in 1762, and entirely supported by voluntary subscription, at present clothes, maintains, and educates 40 girls, but the number is not limited ; St. Philip s industrial free school originally established in 1824, though the present building was erected in 1846 admits 170 chil dren, boys and girls. Besides these, there are numerous pri vate, ordinary, and boarding schools ; National, British, and Lancasterian schools ; a Hebrew school ; infant, Sunday, and ragged schools, &c. ; Springhill College, for the education of young men for the dissenting ministry amongst Independents, BIRMINGHAM 412 BIRMINGHAM is a well-endowed seminary, recently established; and in the neighbourhood of Birmingham is the 11. Catholic seminary of Oscott. A diocesan training institution is about to be erected, for the diocese of Worcester, at Saltley. There are two public subscription libraries in the town, one containing 30,000 volumes, and the other 7000; a society of arts, and Govern ment school of design, an Odd-fellows literary institute, a philosophical institution, a polytechnic institute, and a society of artists. Among the scientific institutions, the Birmingham botanical and horticultural society, established in 1829, whose gardens are at Edgbaston, is deserving of notice. Manufactures. The origin and progress of the prosperity of Birmingham, is wholly attributable to the excellence and extent of its hardware manufactures. Its geographically cen tral situation on the border of a great coal and iron district, combined with the command of a wide and ready transit, both by canal and railway, have contributed to render it one of the greatest manufacturing towns, in the particular line above alluded to, in the world ; approached only, perhaps, by Sheffield. Nowhere else can we find such extraordinary de velopments of human skill and ingenuity, nor such perfec tion in the arts in which they are employed. The vast variety of trades render it a desirable place for the talented and skilled artizaii ; and this variety is such, that it has seldom happened that Birmingham has been distressed, like many towns, from utter lack of employment. Of the early history of Birmingham, as a manufacturing town, little fur ther is known, beyond the general fact that it has enjoyed a reputation for its iron and steel manufactures for several centuries ; although its greatest and most rapid progress has taken place within the last forty years. In 1805, the amount of hardware and cutlery exported was 4288 tons; in 1844, it amounted to 22,552 tons, all the intermediate years, with two or three exceptions, showing a progressive increa-e. In 1821, the value of the exports was 1,237,692; in 1844, 2,179,087. But the value of hardware goods was, probably, fully a third more in the former than in the latter year ; so that the quantity exported in 1844, exceeds that of 1821 far more than the respective valuations indicate. The extra ordinary reduction in the price of Birmingham manufactures has arisen, partly from a reduction in the cost of the material, but chiefly, and in many cases solely, from improved methods of production, as the cost of the material forms, generally, a very small portion of the value of the finished article. Some of these reductions are truly extraordinary : on fire-arms the reduction is about 53 per cent. ; on gun-locks, from 65 to 85 per cent. ; on spoons, stirrups, &c., from 61 to 69 per cent. , and on iron chains, 68 per cent. One of the most important manufactures of Birmingham is that of fire-arms. During the last war, 5,000,000 were furnished on account of Government, and oi the private trade ; those for the former being supplied 24. St. Bartholomew s Church. 25 S:. James s Church. 86. St, Matthew s Church. 27. Church of England Cemeter 29. R. Catholic Cathedral. at the rate of 15,000 muskets weekly. The manufacture of swords is also one of the staple trades of Birmingham. Both of these trades, however, have, of course, much fallen off; and the skill and industry employed in them have taken other directions. At Soho, in the vicinity of the town, was formerly one of the largest steam-engine manufactories in the world, belonging to Boulton, partner of the celebrated James Watt ; but the steam-engine department is now carried on, exclusive ly, at Smethick, a short distance to the west of Sol.o, where extensive works have recently been erected by the same company. Goods of various descriptions, however, are still made here, such as vases, candelabras, and other articles in bronze or ormulu, with large quantities of plate. Here, also, the copper coinage of the kingdom used to be executed. The coining mill, working eight machines, was capable of throw ing off 4000 pieces of money per hour. Cast-iron articles of all kinds, and of the most beautiful patterns and workmanship, BIRMINGHAM 413 BIRMINGHAM are manufactured here to a great extent, superseding those made of more expensive metals. In former years, iron-found ing was limited to large and heavy articles, but is now ex tended, with the most entire success, to the lightest and most graceful, in the finishing of which bronze is now very gener ally employed. The quantity of solid gold and silver plate manufactured in Birmingham is not great; but the con sumption of silver in plating was very considerable, having been estimated at about 200,000 oz. a year. It is now, how ever, rather less, in consequence of the introduction of such metallic compounds as that called albafa, which, though in ferior in appearance to well -finished plated goods, are durable and cheap. The beautiful invention of electro-plating, first discovered in this town, tends very greatly to the increase of the consumption of silver, and also of gold. The vast estab lishment of Smith, Elkington, and Co., New Hall Street, is an object of great attraction. Japanning, in all its forms and varieties, is carried on here to a large extent ; and, though of comparatively recent introduction, has attained to a great degree of perfection, especially in the pictorial department ; the trays and waiters manufactured in Birmingham, particu larly those of papier mache, often displaying, in the conception and execution of their ornamental designs, taste and talent of the highest order. Glass manufacturing, and glass staining or painting, forms another important branch of manufacture ; in the former, ornaments of a size are made, which it was once thought could be produced only in metal ; on these the most beautiful, delicate, and brilliant surfaces are raised by the. lathe and cutting tool. The manufacture of steel pens, scarcely known 25 years ago, is another important branch of the trade of Birmingham. One manufacturer of this appar ently trivial article, employs 400 individuals, and consumes upwards of 85 tons of fine sheet-steel annually, each ton making 10,000 gross of pens. The price of this article has fallen from 12s. per dozen to Is. per gross, and still lower for an inferior article. The whole quantity of steel pens now manufactured is estimated at 750,000,000 annually, consum ing above 400 tons of steel. Large quantities of these are exported. Pins are also manufactured here to a great ex tent ; and such is the extraordinary productive powers of the machinery employed, and of the system of minute subdivision of labour, that 12,000 pins can be cut and pointed in an hour, and 50,000 heads rounded off in the same space of time. The manufacture of buckles was at one time carried on to a great extent at Birmingham, but has long been extinct, in conse quence of the general disuse of that article. Buttons are still made in large quantities, and, though there has been a great falling off in some of the branches of that trade, yet necessity, the mother of invention, has given birth to many new species of buttons. The whole number made annually in the town is estimated at 750,000,000. When gilt buttons were more in demand than they now are, so extraordinary a degree of perfection was attained in the art of gilding, that 3d. worth of gold was made to cover a gross of buttons. In making florentine, or silk buttons, 14 pairs of hands, and a number of machines, are employed ; and yet a set of 14 buttons can be sold for a Id. or l^d. Fancy seals, brooches, clasps, and other trinkets, composed of what is called Birmingham gold, and polished steel, are made in immense quantities, of the most beautiful workmanship, and at prices which excite astonishment. Great numbers of gold rings are also manu factured ; in 1839, no fewer than 25,000 wedding gold rings were assayed and marked at the Assay Office in Birmingham. The above sketch gives only a selection of a few of the leading articles manufactured at this great seat of human industry and ingenuity. The simple enumeration of all, without any statis tical detail, would occupy a far greater space than could be afforded in a work of this nature. The machinery employed in the manufacture of nails, screws, button shanks, and in rolling out thick bars, or ingots of metal, into long thin sheets, are amongst the most wonderful inventions of the mechanical genius of this extraordinary place ; all of these combining prodigious power, with the most delicate and beautiful pre cision of movement. The most delicate impressions on metals are often produced by the die sinking stamp. Not many large capitalists are engaged in the manufactures of Birmingham; a great proportion averaging from 500 to 1000. These persons give out their work to the workmen they employ, who are generally paid by the piece, and work at home. The employer has thus no expensive establishment to maintain, and no wages to pay but when he has orders to execute. The workman, again, when the work put into his hands requires the aid of machinery, may hire, for any given time, one or more rooms, together with a certain quantity of steam power, in any one of a number of buildings appropriated to such purposes, which are furnished with steam-engine, working-shafts, lathes, benches, &c. The engine power of Birmingham, in 1849, was estimated at that of 5400 horses, and consumed 377 tons of coal per day. The working of this power employed 8000 to 10,000 persons. It has been greatly lamented by those who take an interest in the morals of this town, that a vast and increasing employment of married women and of very young children in the delicate manufactures, should occasion much domestic evil and physical suffering ; but still more that the morals of the cottage hearth, together with its comforts, should vastly suffer by the absence, in so many cases, of the mother and wife. The effect upon the educa tional effort is very disastrous. There is a branch bank of England in Birmingham, and seven other banks, and a very flourishing savings -bank. Canals and Railways. Birmingham is in the centre of the canal and railway systems of the kingdom ; and is indebted to them for a great part of its prosperity. The Old Canal opens a communication, through the Severn, with Shrewsbury, Gloucester, and Bristol ; and, through the Trent, with Gains borough, Hull, and London. This canal has also a junction with the grand line, running through the potteries of Stafford shire, to Manchester and Liverpool ; so that both the Irish Sea and the German Ocean are laid directly open to Birmingham traders. The new Birmingham and Fazely Canal provides a similar water conveyance, by Tamworth, Atherston, Nuneaton, and Coventry, to Oxford; and thence, by the Thames, to London. In addition to the facilities for conveyance by canals, Birmingham has the advantage of the following railways : the London and Birmingham, and the Grand Junction, now amalgamated under the name of the London and North-western Railway ; the Birmingham and Derby Junction, which passes from the London and Birmingham line to Derby, and thence to Nottingham ; the Birmingham and Bristol, which passes through Worcester and Gloucester ; both of which branch from the London line to their respective termini. There is now open a railway into the potteries, and the N. parts of Staffordshire are also penetrated. Shortly there will be a direct communication with the populous district of which Dudley and Wolverhampton are the extremities, by means of the Stour Valley Railway, soon to be opened. The Oxford Railway, amalgamated now with the Great Western, is ex pected to proceed in its works, which are far advanced ; its immense viaduct being now a prominent object. Markets, Fairs, &c. The markets are held, Monday, Thurs day, and Saturday, and are well and abundantly supplied. On Tuesday, there is a market for hay, straw, and hides. Fairs are held at Whitsuntide and Michaelmas ; that is, on the Thursday and two following days in Whitsun-week, and on the Thursday and the two following days nearest to September 29. At these fairs, considerable business is done in cattle, horses, and agricultural produce generally. Birmingham is the emporium of the midland couuties. Municipal Government and Representation. By the Reform Act in 1832, and Corporation Reform Act, 1835, Birmingham was constituted a borough, and sends two members to Parlia ment. Constituency in 1846, 6129. Its municipal charter bears date October 31, 1838, and divides the borough into 13 wards. Sixteen aldermen are elected ; one for each of the 13 wards, and three supernumeraries to act in the absence of any of the other 13. The number of councillors is 48. . The aldermen are in the commission of the peace, and hold regular borough courts. The county magistrates sit in petty session, for the division, at the public office, twice a week, and the borough magistrates daily. The county court has also been established in Birmingham, and has superseded the old court of requests. A separate court of quarter-sessions for the borough, has recently been granted by the Crown. Previous to the erection of this court, all prisoners committed for trial were sent to the county prison, at Warwick ; but a borough jail has been lately completed at Winson Green, 2 m. from the centre of the town, at the estimated cost of 50,000. There is also a lunatic asylum erected near it. The borough BIBNAM 414 BISAYAS comprises the parishes of Birmingham and Edgbaston, and the townships of Bordesley, Deretend, Duddeston, and Nechells. Area, within the parliamentary and corporate boundary, 8780 ac. Name and History. Birmingham was known to the Romans under the name of Bremenuim, and is mentioned in Doomsday Book under the name of Bermengeliam. The name, as well as those of the neighbouring hamlets of Castle Bromwich and West Bromwich, is supposed to have been derived from the great quantity of broom which grows in the vicinity. It is said to have been celebrated for the manufacture of arms previous to the Roman invasion. Of its early history, how ever, very little is known. It was the centre of the Saxon kingdom of Mercia ; and, at the time of the Conquest, was a place of some consideration. Birmingham was distinguished in the cause of the parliament ; and was the scene of some conflicts, in the last of which, in 1643, it suffered consider ably ; having been taken, partially burnt, and a heavy fine inflicted on the inhabitants by Prince Rupert. It suffered, to a fearful extent, from the plague in 1665. Its first consider able increase in size and population, took place in the reign of Charles II. Toward the middle of the last century, it be gan to assume an important appearance, and has since con tinued rapidly to increase. It is not eighty years since it was made a post town ; previous to this, letters used to be directed to Birmingham, near Walsall. The American and French wars, during the latter part of the last century, and the early part of this, were the great causes of the prosperity and in crease of the place, by the great demand which they caused for muskets. In July 1791, Birmingham was the scene of a series of disgraceful riots ; property was destroyed to the amount of 60,000. In 1839, riots again took place, when several private buildings in the neighbourhood were set on fire, and various other excesses committed. During the ex citement of 1848, not one man was taken into custody for any political offence a circumstance indicative of great moral improvement. The general healthiness of Birmingham is de- | serving of notice. Dr. Price considered it the healthiest place in England. For this it is thought to be indebted partly to the quantity of vitriol which is consumed in the manufactories, and is considered to have a purifying influence on the atmo sphere ; but a more obvious and more extensive cause may be found in the larger quantity of open space which Birmingham possesses, when compared with such towns as Manchester and Liverpool; in the general excellence of its drainage, greatly facilitated by the substratum of sand and gravel on which it is built ; and in the important fact that there is scarcely an underground dwelling, or what is called a cellar, within its precincts. One man in Birmingham lives on the same space as two in Manchester, and three in Liverpool ; and the mor tality of each town is as nearly as possible in the same ratio. Edgbaston, already named, a suburban par. and tn. Birming ham, is pleasantly situated about half a mile W. from the latter. It is a favourite residence of the wealthier classes of Birmingham, and is almost exclusively inhabited by them. It is in consequence rapidly increasing, and becoming quite a fashionable resort. It consists of several principal streets, regularly laid out, and remarkably well kept. The houses, mostly modern, are well built, chiefly of brick stuccoed, there being few of stone. Water is abundant, and all the principal thoroughfares are now lighted with gas. There are here two churches, and a third is about (1850) to be erected, all con nected with the Establishment, and three public schools. No workshops of any description are allowed to be erected in the parish. There are botanical gardens here, open to the public one day in the week. Area of par. 2790 ac. Pop. 6609. Population. In 1801, the population of Birmingham and the suburbs was 73,670; in 1841, it was 182,922; being about 150 per cent, in 40 years ; in 1849, it was estimated at 220,000. (Local Correspondent ; Guide to Birmingham ; &c.) BIRXAM, a hill, Scotland, co. of, and 12 m. N.W. Perth ; according to the last statistical account 1300 ft. in height; and according to some other authorities, 1580. It was anciently included in a royal forest, but has long since been denuded of the wood, rendered famous by Shakspeare. Birnam is 12 m. distant from Dunsinnan. BIBNBAUM, a tn. Prussia, cap. circle of same name; on the Wartha, 45 m. W.N.W. Posen; with a R. Catholic and a Reformed church, a synagogue, an orphan hospital, and manufactures of linen. Pop. 2800. The CJRCLE, area, 400 geo. sq. m., is in general flat, and covered to a great extent with forests and meadows. The inhabitants are chiefly occupied with agricultural pursuits. Pop. 38,158. Numerous small places in Germany have the same name. BIRNEE, or BIRNIE (Ot.D and NEW), two tns. Bornou, both W. Lake Tchad. Old Birnee, formerly cap. of the kingdom, but now deserted and in ruins, is near the r. bank of the Yeou, 70 m. N.N.W. Kouka, and 75 W. the lake; lat. 13 N.; Ion. 13 15 E. In the days of its splendour, it covered a space of 6 sq. in., and is said to have contained a population of 200,000. The walls, of which portions are still standing, in large masses of hard red brickwork, were from 16 to 18 ft. in height, and from 3 to 4 ft. in thickness. New Birnee is about 75 m. S.S.E. Old Birnee, 20 due N. Kouka, and 15 from Lake Tchad; lat. 12 30 N. ; Ion. 14 16 E. This town is also walled, and contains a royal palace, a large mud edifice. Pop. about 10,000. BIRNIE, par. Scot. Elgin, 7 m. long, and about 2 broad. Pop. 407. BIKE, or PARSON S- TOWN, a market tn. and par. Ireland, King s co. The town stands on gentle acclivities, on both banks of the little Brosna, 69 m. W.S.W. Dublin. It con sists chiefly of one principal street and several smaller, the better description of which are straight and well kept ; houses generally of stone, and the greater number having a respect able appearance. There is also a good square, in which is a statue of the Duke of Cumberland, at one of the terminations of the main street. Water is sufficiently abundant, but of indifferent quality. The only buildings of note are the parish church, and the R. Catholic chapel. The former has a square tower, and the latter an elegant spire. They are both in the Gothic style, and both of recent erection. There is also a court-house. Besides the churches mentioned, there are a neat Wesleyan Methodist chapel, and a Presbyterian meeting house. There are two national schools in the town, one for boys, the other for girls the latter conducted by nuns; a school connected with the parish church, one with the Pres byterians, a classical school, and several smaller primary schools; likewise a fever hospital, a dispensary, a public reading-room, and a mechanics institute. In the town and neighbourhood are several corn and rape mills, and a distillery. There is no trade of any importance. Area of par. 7218 ac. ; pop. 9567. Pop. of tn. 6336. BIRSA, par. Orkney, Mainland, 7 J m. long, and 5 broad. Pop. 1634. BIRSE, par. Scot. Aberdeen, 10 m. long, and about the same breadth. Pop. 1295. BIRSIS, a small maritime tn. Tripoli, dist. Jeb-el-Akdar; lat. 32 17 N.; Ion. 20 39 E. BIR-SEBA. See BEER.<HEBA. BIRSK, a tn. Russia, gov. Orenburg, at the confluence of the Bir with the Belaia, 50 m. N.W. Outa. It contains three churches. Pop. 3500. BIESTALL, a par. and vil. Eng., co. York, W. Riding ; 13,180 ac. ; 7 m. S.W. Leeds. The inhabitants are princi pally employed in the manufacture of woollens, cottons, linen, silk, and in the coal and ironstone mines. Pop. 29,723. B1RTS-MORTON, par. Eng. Worcester; 1410 ac. Pop. 313. BIRU, or BEROO, a kingdom, W. Africa, in Soodan, N. and W. of the Niger, with the Sahara bounding it N., between lat. 15 and 16 N., and Ion. 5 30 and 7 15 W. The cap. town, Walet, is 260 m. S.S.W. Timbuctoo. BISACCIA, a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Ultra, 12 m. N.E. St. Angelo de Lombardi, on a hill ; with several churches, and an hospital. Pop. 5916. BISACQUINO, or BUSSACHINO, a tn. Sicily, 28 m. S. Palermo ; with a considerable trade in grain, oil, and flax. Pop. 8000. BISAMBERG, a vil. Lower Austria, about 8 m. N. Vienna, cap. of a dist. and situated on a hill of the same name, the summit of which is 1190 ft. above the sea. It has a palace, a parish church, a school, and an hospital. In its neighbourhood, one of the best wines of Austria is pro duced, and a great deal of lavender grown. Pop. 642. BISAYAS, a name given by the Spaniards to all the Philippine islands excepting Luzon. It is derived from the \ language spoken throughout them, called Bisaya, which has BISBAL 415 BISHOP- AUCKLAND numerous dialects, and differs greatly from the Tayala, the language spoken in Luzon. These islands were also called Pintados [painted men], from the inhabitants painting their bodies different colours a custom not yet quite disused among the tribes of the interior. BISBAL, a tn. Spain, Catalonia, prov. of, and 12 m. E. by S. Gerona, in a fertile plain surrounded by hills. It has a parish church, two chapels, several schools, a chapter-house, prison, hospital, and a fine promenade. Manufactures : linen fabrics, bricks, tiles, earthenware, and corks. An annual fair is held for grain, cattle, implements of husbandry, and industrial requisites. Pop. 4000. BISBROOXE, par. Eng. Rutland; 720 ac. Pop. 211. BISCARA, a tn. Algeria, originally built by the Romans, 200m. S.S.E. Algiers. It is defended by an insignificant castle, mounted with a few guns, and is said to be so infested with scorpions and other poisonous reptiles, as to be unin habitable during summer. It carries on a small trade in negroes and ostrich feathers. The natives are held in great esteem for their honesty in Algiers, to which town the greater number of the poorer classes resort for a livelihood. BISCAEI, or VISCARI, a tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 44 m. W. by S. Syracuse, founded in the 15th century. Pop. 2700. BISCATHORPE, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 1050 ac. Pop. 63. BISCAY [Spanish, Vizcaya], also called BILBAO, a prov. Spain, forming one of the three Basque provinces [Spanish, Vascongadas] , bounded, N. by the Bay of Biscay, W. by prov. Santander, S. by Alava, and E. by Guipuzcoa ; area, 1267 sq. m. The surface is generally mountainous ; the only plains of any extent lying along the banks of the principal streams. The loftiest summits are in the W., S., and E. ; in which last direction they attain their culminating point in Mount Arno, on the borders of Guipuzcoa. In geological structure, the province belongs to the more recent secondary formation ; the smaller portion of it, lying to the N. and N.E., consisting of lias, and the larger portion of chalk. Both, but particularly the chalk, are traversed by ridges of trachyte, and occasionally of green porphyry. The principal river is the Nervion or Ibaiza- bal, which crosses the province from S.E. to N.W., and divides it into two nearly equal parts. The other streams are little more than mountain-torrents. In point of soil and natural productions, Biscay is one of the least favoured provinces of Spain ; but the industry of the inhabitants has been success fully exerted, in converting naturally barren tracts into fruit ful fields and verdant pastures. The chief crops are maize and barley. Many fine fruits, especially nectarines, are raised ; walnuts and chestnuts everywhere abound, and form a con siderable export to England and Germany. The cattle are of a small and inferior breed ; and the rearing of sheep for wool is rendered difficult by the brushwood, which covers great part of the mountain-districts, and tears and destroys the fleece. Fish abound along the coast, and give occupation to a great number of fishing-boats. The principal species taken are bream, tunny, cod, and anchovies. The most im portant mineral is iron, which is found of excellent quality throughout the province, and is extensively worked. Lead, copper, and zinc also occur. The inhabitants of Biscay are brave, active, and industrious One of their most distin guishing features is their love of freedom, and their history is full of the exploits which they have performed in repelling attempted encroachments on it. Pop. 150,000. BISCAY (BAY OF), a gulf of the Atlantic, on the coasts of Spain and France, extending from Cape Ortegal, in Spain, to the isle of Ushant, off Brest, in France, distant from each other about 400 m. This bay is remarkable for its heavy seas, produced by N.W. winds. It is of great depth, and is traversed by Kennel s current. (See ATLANTIC.) BISCEOLIA, a seaport tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Bari, 13 m. E.S.E. Barletta, on a rock, W. shore of the Adriatic; lat. 41 14 24" N. ; Ion. 16 30 30" E. (R.) surrounded by walls, and in general badly built. It has a cathedral, two col legiate and several other churches, convents of both sexes, a seminary, hospital, and a mont-de-pictt. It is the residence of a bishop. The port admits vessels of small burden only. The town being almost destitute of water, rain is collected in large cisterns cut in the solid rock. The neighbourhood produces good wine. Important fairs are held here twice a j ear. Pop. 15,141. B1SCHHEIM, a tn. France, dep. Bas-Ehin (Alsace), about 3 m. N. Strasburg, with a manufactory of starch. Here the first attempt was made to cultivate tobacco in Alsace. Pop. 2929. BISCHOFSBURG, a vil. Prussia, prov. E. Prussia, on the Dimmer, 15 m. S.S.W. Rossel. The inhabitants are em ployed in weaving and spinning. Pop. 2450. BISCHOFSHEIM. 1, BiscTiofsheim vor der ETiim, a tn. Bavaria, Lower Franconia, cap. dist. of same name, on the Brent, in a mountainous district, 19 m. S.E. Fulda. It has manufactures of woollen and linen cloth, a dyework, a large worsted and several other mills. Pop. 1795. The DISTRICT has an area of 56 geo. sq. m. Pop. 12,241. 2, Biscliofs- heim-Neckar, a tn. Baden, circle, Lower Rhine, cap. dist. of same name, about 1 6 m. S.E. Heidelberg. It is walled ; and has two palaces and a powder-mill. Pop. 1930. The DIS TRICT has an area of 48 geo. sq. m. Pop. 14,803. 3, Bischofs- heim-7iein, a tn. Baden, circle, Middle Rhine, cap. dist. of same name, 10m. N.E. Strasburg. Pop. 1652. The DIS TRICT has an area of 36 geo. sq. m. Pop. 12,606. 4, Bischofs- heim-Tauber, a tn. Baden, circle, Lower Rhine, cap. dist. of same name, 16m. S.W. Wurzburg, on the Tauber, with a parish church. Pop. of tn. 2427 ; of dist. 16,482. 5, Two small places, the one in Hesse-Darmstadt, the other in Hessc- Cassel, each containing a parish church. BISCHOFSTEIN, or BISCHSTEIN, a tn. Prussia, prov. E. Prussia, 47 m. S.S.E. Kb nigsberg, with three churches (one of them amongst the finest in the province), a high school ; manufactures of cloth, hosiery, and leather ; distilleries, breweries, &c. Pop. 2830. BISCHOF-TEINITZ, a fortified tn. Bohemia, circle, Klattau, 1. bank, Radbusa, 26 m. S.W. Pilsen, with a palace, surrounded by a fine park ; several churches, two of them founded in the 1 3th century, and containing fine tombs and statues. The inhabitants live by agriculture, weaving, and shopkeeping. Pop. 2403. The LORDSHIP of the same name has a pop. of 17,775. BISCHWILLER, a tn. France, dep. Bas-Ehin, 12 in. N. Strasburg, r. bank, Moder. It was formerly an episcopal town, and defended by a castle, erected in the loth century, but dismantled in 1706. It has manufactures of cloth for the army, ticks, linen, woollen gloves, knitted articles, oil, and pottery ; besides bleachfields, spinning-mills, breweries, tanneries, madder-mills, and iron mines. Its trade is in wine, hops, hemp, tobacco, madder, coal, cattle, &c. Pop. 6242. BISENTINA, or POSSENTINA, an islet, Papal States, in Lake Bolsena. It contains a church, built by the Farnese family, and decorated by the Caracci ; and a Franciscan con vent, with fine gardens. BISENTO, or BISENTI, a tn. Naples, prov. Abruzzo- Ultra, 9 m. N.W. Civita-di-Penne, in a valley. It has several churches, and a dyework for woollen cloth. Pop. 2742. BISENZ, a tn. and lordship, Moravia, circle of, and 12 m. S.W. Hradisch. The town lies in a plain, at the foot of a hill, which produces the best wine in Bohemia. It has a handsome palace, surrounded by extensive gardens. A good deal of garden produce is raised, and the vine is successfully cultivated. The chief field crop is maize. Pop. of tn. 2800 ; of lordship, 5858. BISERT, a river, Russia, gov. Perm. It rises in the Ural Mountains, and, after a S.W. course of about 80 m., joins r. bank, Oufa, a little above Krasnoufimsk. BISHAM, par. Eng. Berks ; 2520 ac. Pop. 659. BISHAMPTON, par. Eng. Worcester ; 2 140 ac. P. 4] 0. BISHOP and CLERK, two rocky islets, S. Pacific Ocean, S. from Macquarie s island, lat. 55 15 S. ; Ion. 158 56 E. (R.) BISHOP-AUCKLAND, a market tn. England, co. of, and 9 m. S.W. Durham, on the Stockton and Darlington Rail way, pleasantly situated on an eminence, nearly 140 ft. above the level of the plain. The slopes on each side are partly covered with hanging gardens, while the houses occupy the i brow and remaining portion of the declivity. It consists of three principal streets, and a spacious market-place. The | houses are generally old, ill built, and of every sort of material. It is well lighted with gas, but is indifferently supplied with water. The parish church is a mile from the town. The other places of worship are, a chapel of ease, belonging to the Church of England ; a Wesleyan, an Associated Wesleyan, a Primitive Methodist, an Independent, and a R. Catholic chapel, and a Quakers meeting-house. Schools : a grammar-school, BISHOPBKIDGE 416 BISTRAU Barrington school, a Quakers school, and four or five private schools. There are likewise several benefit societies, and a mechanics institute. No manufactures, the town depending on the coal trade, being situated in the midst of a coal field, known as S. Durham. Pop. 3776. (Local Correspondent.} BISHOPBKIDGE, or BISHOPIIKJGGS, a vil. Scotland, co. Lanark, par. Cadder, about 3 in. N.N.E. Glasgow, and a station on the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway. The quar ries in its vicinity are very extensively worked, and furnish much of the fine freestone of which Glasgow is built. Above the freestone is a good seam of Roman cement. BI8HOPSBOUKNE, par. Eng. Kent; I860 ac. P. 334. BISHOP S CANNINGS. & e CANNING* (BisnopV. BISHOP S CASTLE, a market tn. and par. England, co. Salop, bund. Purslow. The town is situated on a gentle acclivity, 17 m. S.W. by S. Shrewsbury. It consists chiefly of two streets, both straight and well kept; houses of stone, and, though old, generally well built; supply of water ample. The only buildings of note are, the union workhouse, the market-house, a neat modem building, and the parish church, a fine old structure, partly in the Norman style. The other places of worship are a Primitive Methodist chapel, and a chapel belonging to the Independents. The schools are a national school, and a partially free school, for the benefit of the inhabitants of the town. With exception of a little chair- making, no manufactures are carried on here, the people being chiefly engaged in agriculture. The castle, from which the place takes its name, is not now in existence, its site being occupied by the Castle Inn. It belonged to the Bishops of Hereford. Area of par. 6000 ac. Pop. of par. 1781 ; of tn. 1510. (Local Correspondent.) BISHOP S BTOBTFOBD, a market tn. and par. Eng land, co. Hertford. The town, which is 27 m. N.N.E. London, is built in the form of a cross, and occupies the acclivities of two hills, on the river Stort. It consists chiefly of four streets, call nearly straight and well kept; houses, mostly brick ; lighted with gas, and supply of water abund ant. The corn exchange, built in 1828, is a handsome and commodious building, containing assembly and coffee rooms. The. church is also an elegant structure, having a tower at the W. end, with a spire about 80 ft. in height. Other places of worship are, "Wesleyan, Baptist, and Independ ent chapeb, one of each, and a Quakers meeting-house. There are here, likewise, a free grammar-school, a national school, and a British and Foreign school, some alms-houses, several minor charities, a savings -bank, and a mechanics and literary institution. The principal trade of the town is malting, which is carried on to a very considerable extent. A large patent tanning manufactory, which employed many hundred hands, is now, and has been for some years, closed. The business of the town is facilitated by the Eastern Counties Railway, which has a station here, and by a canal, which joins the river Lea. The market, now one of the principal in the county, is held on Thursday. Petty sessions are held once a fortnight, and the county court once a month. Area of par. 3080 ac. Pop. 4GS1. (Local Correspondent.) BISHOP S SUTTON, par. Eng. Hants; 3510 ac. P.517. BISHOPSTONE, five pars. Eng.: 1, par. Hereford; 840 ac. Pop. 304. 2, par. Sussex; 1820 ac. Pop. 288. 3, par. Wilts; 2730 ac. Pop. 569. 4, par. Wilts; 3330 ac. Pop. 704. 5, par., S. Wales, Glamorgan. Pop. 491. BI8HOPSTROW, par. Eng. Wilts; 980 ac. Pop. 296. BISHOP S WALTHAM, a small market tn. and par. England, co. Hants, the former 10 m. N.E. Southampton. Its church is an ancient structure, in the mixed style, with a square stone tower. The schools are, a national school for boys and girls, and an endowed grammar-school. S.W. the town are the ruins of Waltham Abbey, the ancient palace of the bishops of Winchester. Bishop s Waltham is a polling station for the election of county members for N. Hants. Area of par. 7389. Pop. 2193. (Local Correspondent.) BISHOPTHORPK-, or TiionrE-ur-ox-OusE, par. Eng. city of York Ainsty ; 760 ac. Pop. 404. BISHOP \VEARMOUTH. See SONDEULANP. BISHOPTON, par. Eng. Durham ; 5100 ac.- Pop. 473. BISIITON, par. Eng. Monmouth ; 1850 ac. Pop. 187. BISIGNANO [anc. Eisitianium], a tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Citra, 14 m. N. Cosenza, the seat of a bishop, and defended by a citadel occupying the summit of the highest of the seven hills that surround it. It contains a cathedral, 19 churches, several convents, a seminary, two hospitals, ami a house of refuge. The cultivation of the silkworm forms a principal branch of industry. Pop. 10,000. BISK. See BIYSK. BISKRA, a tn., N. Africa, in the Sahara, 214 m. S.E. Algiers ; lat. 34 47 N. ; Ion. 5 22 E. It is less a town than the collocation of seven villages, or urban quarters, lying among plantations of date-trees covering nearly 50,000 ac. of land. Nearly in the centre rises the kasbah, a kind citadel, where a garrison is lodged. The summit of the chief mosque surmounts the highest palm-trees near it. The general aspect of the town buildings is not otherwise remarkable than that, like all other houses in towns of the Sahara, they are built of baked earth, and have terraced roofs. Biskra is the capital of the Zibans. Pop. about 4000. (Sahara Algerica.) BISLEY. 1, A vil. and par. England, co. Gloucester. The former, 11 m. S.E. Gloucester, consists chiefly of one main street ; houses well built, supply of water indifferent. There are here but one church, and a parish school. Broad cloth was formerly manufactured here to a great extent, but is now very limited ; area of par. 7980 ac. Pop. (1841), 5339. 2, par., co. Surrey; area, 780 ac. Pop. (1841), 321. (Local Correspondent.) BISPHAM, par. Eng. Lancaster; 3490 ac. Pop. 2339. B1SSAGOS (THE), or BIJUGA ISLANDS, a group of small volcanic islands, about 20 in number, W. coast, Africa, opposite the mouth of the Rio Grande, between lat. 10 and ]2 N.; and Ion. 1 5 30 and 1 6 30 W. The largest, Marshi, is about 15 m. in length. Most of them are inhabited, but some of them are merely bare rocks, and visited only occasionally. The soil of the more fertile islands is excellent, consisting principally of decomposed lava, and vegetable matter. They are mostly covered with wood, but present a few clear spaces covered with a rich verdure, on which herds of elephants, deer, buffaloes, and other wild animals depasture. The in habitants cultivate maize, and have plantations of bananas and palms, but their chief dependence is on their cattle, goats, and fisheries. They are a brave, but treacherous people, and go always armed. There is a town of the same name on the 1. bank of the Bulola laver, about 22 m. from its embouchure ; lat, 1136 N.; Ion. 15 10 W. BISSAO, an isl. and seaport tn., W. Africa, coast of Sene- gambia, at the mouth of the Jeba or Geba, the latter in lat. 11 52 N.; Ion. 15 37 W. (K.) The island is extremely fertile, and densely peopled by a race called Papels, remark able for their industry and fidelity. On the E. side of the island, and close to the beach, is a Portuguese fort, a large square building with four bastions and several guns, garrisoned by about 300 soldiers, who are chiefly convicts and mulattoes. excepting the officers, who are detached from the Cape de Verde Islands, of which this settlement is a dependency. Good anchorage may be had off the town in 7 fathoms mud. Re freshments of all kinds are to be obtained here, but at high prices. Water of good quality is also to be had, but the supply is scanty. The Portuguese have been in possession of this island for upwards of two centuries, but of the numerous fortifications with which it was formerly protected, the one above spoken of is all that remains. The present trade is confined to a very few annual ships from Lisbon. B1SSOLEE, two towns, India:!, A tn. Punjab, r. bank, Ravee ; lat. 32 28 N. ; Ion. 75 44 E., with an irregularly built bazaar, and a remarkable palace of the Rajah, regarded by Vigne as the finest building of the kind in the East. 2, A tu., prov. Delhi, 31 m. S.W. by W. Bareily ; lat. 28 19 N.; Ion. 79 10 E. It flourished under the early Mogul Emperors and the Rohillas, but is now comparatively desolate. It con tains the tombs of some of the family of the Rohillah founder. BISSUNPOOR, an anc. tn. Hindoostan, prov. Bengal, 79 m. N.W. Calcutta; lat. 23 4 N.; Ion. 87 25 E. It is situated in a tract of ferruginous soil, about 30 ft. above the alluvial plains of the Ganges, and is still a place of consider able traffic and importance. The only note-worthy structure is the old fort where the Rajah resides, at one time a place of great strength and magnificence, though now fallen into decay. BISTRAU, a tn. Bohemia, circle, Chrudim, cap. lordship of same name, in a deep valley, 39 m. W. by S. Olmu tz. It has a church with a fine altar-screen, an industrial school, and a weekly market. Pop. of tn. 1926 ; of lordship, 10,179. BISTRITZ 417 BJO RNEBORG BISTRITZ. t, A tn. and lordship, Moravia, circle, Pre- rau, The town, situated on the Bistritsa, 25 m. S.E. Olmiitz, lias a parish church, two chapels, a castle, and an hospital. Pop. 1463. The lordship has an undulating surface, and is watered by the Bistritsa and Eussawa. Pop. 9512. 2, A tn. and lordship, Moravia, circle, Iglau. The town, 42 m. W. by S. Olmiitz, has its own magistracy, two churches, a town- house, an hospital, and considerable manufactures of cloth. Pop. 2447. The lordship is generally level, though in part hilly, and is watered by the Schwazawa, Nedwedicka, and Bobruwka. Pop. 6328. 3. A vil. and lordship, Bohemia, circle, Klattau. The village has a castle, a chapel, a manu factory of looking-glasses, a mill, and two workhouses. Pop. of vil. 524; of lordship, 14,299. 4, Bistritz (Neu), a tn. and lordship, Bohemia, circle, Tabor. The town lies in a valley almost level, 35 m. S.S.E. Tabor, and contains a church, a castle, a townhou.se, and hospital, and has some woollen and linen manufactures. Pop. of tn. 3450; of lordship, 10,164, all R. Catholic. BISTRITZ, a royal free tn. Transylvania, cap. dist. of same name, on the Bistritz, opposite to the Borgo Pass, in a fine valley, 29 m. E.N.E. Szamosujvar; lat. 47 6 N.; Ion. 24 30 E. It is walled, has two churches, one Lutheran, with a tower 250 ft. high ; and one R. Catholic, a monastery of Piarists, and one of Minorite Friars, a Protestant, and a R. Catholic gymnasium, a printing-office, two hospitals, two schools, and a handsome corn-market. The inhabitants manu facture cloth, cordage, leather, potashes, and soap, and trade with Bukowina, Austrian Poland, and Moldavia. Two large cattle-markets are held here annually. Wine is produced in the vicinity. Near the town are the remains of an old castle, formerly the seat of the Hunyads. Pop. 6620. The DIS TRICT, area, 530 geo. sq. m., is intersected by a branch of the Carpathian Mountains, and particularly in its higher parts has a severe climate. Agriculture is necessarily of very limited extent, but the woods abound with game, and the rivers with fish. There are about 30 salt springs in the district. The great Szamos is the largest stream, but the most celebrated is the Little Bistritz, known by the name of Golden Bistritz, which it owes to the gold dust found among its sands. Pop. 55,000. BITBURG, a tn. Rhenish Prussia, gov. Trier or Troves, cap. circle of same name, between the Nyms and the Kyll, 18m. N.N. W. Treves. It is the seat of several public offices, has two R. Catholic churches, and a castle, some manufactures of cloth and leather, a weekly, and four yearly markets. Pop. 2000. The CIRCLE, area, 220 geo. sq. m., lies between the Ardennes and the Eifel, and is watered by the Moselle or Mosel, Kyll, Priini, Nyms, Sauer, Diezbach, and Enzbach. The surface is much broken by hills, which are generally well wooded, and in the N. W. furnish quarries of slate, lime stone, and sandstone. The valleys are fertile and well culti vated, and produce good crops of grain, pulse, potatoes, rape, flax, and hops. Iron is worked to some extent. Pop. 39,941. B1TCHE, a fortified tn. of the first class, France, dep. Moselle, 59 in. E. by S. Metz. The lower town, formerly called Kaltenhausen, is built at the foot of a rock, near a lake, from which the Home takes its rise. The castle, situated on a rock about 150 ft. above the valley, mounts about 80 pieces of cannon, and requires 1000 men for its defence. It consists of four bastions and a half-moon battery, and is well supplied with water from fine cisterns, and a very deep well sunk in the heart of the rock. Bitche has manufactures of earthen ware and paper snuff-boxes ; and in the neighbourhood are the glassworks of Munsthal. Pop. 3131. BITCH FIELD, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 1540 ac. Pop. 160. BITETTO.a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Bari, 10 in. S.W. Bari, in a fertile plain, W. shore Adriatic. It is the seat of a bishop, has several convents, and a cathedral, containing numerous interesting pictures and marbles. Pop. 4664. BITIOUG, a river, Russia, which rises in the S. of gov. Tambov, shortly after enters Voroneje, and, after a S. course of above 130 m., joins 1. bank Don, about 15 m. above Pav- lovsk. Its banks are covered with fine forests. BITLTS. See BETLIS. BITONTO [anc. Butuntum], a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Bari, in a fine plain, 15 m. W.S.W. Bari. It is the seat of a bishop, and has a handsome cathedral, 1 2 parish churches, convents for both sexes, an hospital, and a seminaiy. The VOL. 1. environs produce excellent wine, called Zagarello. A short distance from the town the Spaniards gained a decisive victory over the Austrians, May 25, 1734. Pop. 16,235. BITRITTO, a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Bari, 6 m. S. from Bari. It has a collegiate church ; and its territory is noted for the excellence of its wines and almonds. Pop. 2607. BITSCHWILLER, a tn. France, dep. Haut-Rhin, 18 m. N.N.E. Belfort, in the valley of the Thur. It has cotton mills, iron furnaces, and manufactures of numerous articles in tin, steel, and common iron. Pop. 2847. BITTADON, par. Eng. Devon ; 5100 ac. Pop. 78. BITTBURG. See BITBURG. BITTERFELD, a tn. Prussia, prov. Saxony, cap. circle of same name, 1. bank, Mulde, 21 m. N. Leipzig, 16 m. S. Dessau. It was founded by a colony of Flemmgs, is walled, and has some manufactures of cloth and earthenware. Pop. 3850. The CIRCLE, area, 210 geo. sq. m., is level, and the soil fertile. The railway between Leipzig and Magdeburg skirts the circle. Pop. 41,373. BITTERLEY, par. Eng. Salop; 5610 ac. Pop. 1098. BITTESWELL, par. Eng. Leicester ; 2630 ac. P. 495. BITTI, a vil., isl. Sardinia, about 55 m. S.E. Sassari, in a mountainous district. The rearing of cattle is the chief employment. Pop. 2200. BITTON, par. Eng. Gloucester ; 7520 ac. Pop. 9338. BIVERI, or BIVIERI, a lake, Sicily, 15 m. 8. S.W. Catania. In summer, the greater part of it, converted into a mere marsh, produces a miasma which makes the whole district unhealthy ; but when swelled by the rains of winter, it has a circuit of nearly 20 m. It communicates with the sea by the river Lentini, and contains various kinds of fish, the taking of which employs from 50 to 60 boats. BIX, or BIXBRAND, par. Eng. Oxford ; 3130 ac. P. 427. BIXLEY, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 760 ac. Pop. 110. BIYA, a river, Siberia, uniting with the Katunya, 10 m. S.E. Biysk, and forming the Obi. It rises in Lake Altin, flows N.W., then S.W., and has a total course of upwards of 100m. BIYSK, BUSK, BISK, or BEJSK, a tn. Siberia, gov. of, and 270 m. S. Tomsk, on the Biya ; lat. 520 N. ; Ion. 85 10 E. It is wholly composed of wooden houses, and derives its chief importance from the facilities it offers for carrying on trade with China, from the frontiers of which it is only 190 m. distant. The country around is fertile in wheat, depastures numerous cattle, and produces a considerable quantity of honey. Pop. 2000. BIZERTA, or BENZERTA [anc. Hippo Zarrhytus], a seaport tn. and bay, regency of Tunis. The town stands on the W. side of the bay, 35 m. N. by W. Tunis ; lat. 37 16 36" N. , Ion. 9 49 15" E. (R.) ; and is thus the most N. town of Africa. It is about a mile in circumference, and is fortified, towards the sea, by several castles and batteries ; which, however, are all but useless as defences, in consequence of being commanded by a hill at the distance of a quarter of a mile. Bizerta was formerly one of the best ports in Tunis ; and is still good, though now seldom frequented, except by small vessels. The shores of the bay are chiefly composed of sandy downs ; there is good anchorage at a little distance from the shore, in 5, 6, and 7 fathoms. A lake, or rather lagoon, runs from the bay a considerable distance into the land, and is said to have a depth, in some places, of 40 to 50 fathoms ; but its entrance from the sea is narrow, and has not more than 9 ft. over the bar. There is an extensive fishery here, which is farmed at a high rate ; the fish taken are chiefly mullet, of a large size and fine flavour. The country around is singularly beautiful and fertile, producing corn, pulse, oil, cotton, and fruits in great abundance. Notwithstanding this, its inhabitants have been represented as living in a state of the greatest poverty. Pop. about 10,000. BJORKO. 1, An isl. Sweden, in Lake Malar, about 13m. from Stockholm. It is supposed that here stood the famed large and great city Bjb rko ; and ruins of walls, gates, &c., seem to confirm the accuracy of the supposition. 2, An isl. E. coast, Sweden; lat. 59 53 N. ; Ion. 19 E.; 10 m. long by 4 broad. 3, An isl. Russia, Gulf of Bothnia, W. coast, Finland; lat. 63 21 N.; Ion. 19 13 23" E. BJORNEBORG, a seaport tn. Russian Finland, dist. of, and 70 m. N.N.W. Abo, and on a sandy tongue of land, at the mouth of the Kumo, in the Gulf of Bothnia. It has some BLABY 418 BLACKBURN shipbuilding; and exports of timber, pitch, tar, articles of I wood, and fish ; the two last chiefly to Stockholm. Its entrepot is N. Sanbad, above a mile from the town. The States of Sweden met here in 1602. Pop. 4570. BLABY, par. Eng. Leicester; 3300 ac. Pop. 1896. BLACK FOREST. See SCHWARZWALD. BLACK HEAD. 1, A bay, Ireland, co. Clare, S.side, Galway Bay, having the promontory of Black Head lat. 53 9 N.; Ion. 9 17 W. (R.) on the W., and Finvarra Point on the E. 2, A point, N.E. coast, Ireland, co. Antrim, N. side of the mouth of Belfast Lough ; lat. 54 46 6" N. ; Ion. 5 41 15" W. (R.) BLACK RIVER, a river, U. States, New York, falling into Black River Bay, in the N.E. part of Lake Ontario, after a N.W. course of about 108 m., of which about 40 m., near its centre, are navigable for boats. The lower part of the river is obstructed by rapids. BLACK SEA, or EUXINE [anc. Pontus Euxinus}, a large inland sea, bounded, N. and N.W. by Russia, N.E. by Cau casia, W. by Turkey in Europe, S. by Anatolia, and S.E. by Armenia, between lat. 41 V and 46 37 N., and Ion. 27 25 and 41 46 E. Greatest length, from E. to W., about 700 m. ; breadth, about 300 m. ; extent of coast, upwards of 2000 m.; area, variously estimated at 160,000 and 180,000 sq. in. It receives some of the largest rivers in Europe, in cluding the Danube, Dnieper, and Dniester, and drains a surface of 950,000 sq. m. ; its waters are, in consequence, only brackish. Its depth in general is great, no bottom having been found in some parts with a line of 140 fathoms, although, in a few places, as the Strait of Yenikale", it does not exceed 10, 20, or 30 ft.; while off the mouth of the Danube the water deepens so gradually from the shore, that the distance from the latter may be ascertained within half a mile by soundings alone. Throughout the whole of the 1 Slack Sea there are scarcely any rocks, and almost every where are excellent anchoring-places. Storms are rare, and, when they do occur, are of short duration, seldom lasting more than 12 hours, without considerable abatement. During the summer, N. winds prevail, and S. in the beginning of autumn and spring. The former frequently detain vessels from the Mediterranean in the Dardanelles and Bosphorus for weeks together. The currents of the Black Sea, generally, have a tendency towards the Bosphorus or channel of Constantinople. The most constant and powerful is that which sets along the W. shore, from the mouth of the Dnieper to the Bosphorus, occasioned by the great influx of water, especially on the melting of the snow, from the great rivers that fall into the N.W. portion of this inland sea. There is no flow of tide in the Black Sea, the slight difference of elevation that occa sionally occurs arising solely from the winds and currents. The S. coast of the Crimea, and the coast of Anatolia and Caucasia, abound in lofty mountains, which rise up imme diately from the margin of the sea, and afford excellent land marks. On the N.W. and N., the coast is generally low, and on this account dangerous, as it can be seen only from a very short distance. Harbours and bays are numerous, and many of them good ; but there are none of any great extent. Those that penetrate deepest into the land are the Gulf of Kerkinet on the N., between the Crimea and the mainland ; the Gulfs of Rassein and Burgas on the W., and those of Sinope and Samsoon on the S. There are no remarkable projections or headlands, excepting those formed by the W. and S. extremi ties of the Crimea, and Cape Indjeh and Bozdepeh in Anatolia. The Black Sea communicates with the Sea of Azof by a nar row channel, called the Strait of Kertsch or Yenikale , and with the Mediterranean by the Bosphorus or Channel or Strait of Constantinople, the Sea of Marmora, and the Dardanelles. There are few fisheries of any importance carried on in the Black Sea, although it abounds with various kinds of fish, including porpoises, sturgeons, dolphins, mackerel, mullet, bream, &c. Seals, also, are numerous. One of the most extensive fisheries is at the entrance of the Strait of Yenikale", where considerable quantities of sturgeon are taken. The N. ports are frequently shut up by ice for three or four months in the year, or from about December to March. The Black Sea extended, at a remote period, much further E. and N. than it now does, occupying the whole of the vast plains and steppes that surround the Caspian and the Sea of Aral, in Tartary, neither of which had then a separate exist ence, being included in this great inland sea. The relative level of the Black Sea, with the Caspian on the one hand and the ocean on the other, Avere long undetermined points ; but seem now to be pretty well ascertained. It has been found that the Caspian is 101 ft. lower than the Black Sea, and that the latter is precisely of the same level as the ocean. That it is, however, a little, though, perhaps, but a very little above the level of the Mediterranean, which is itself kept below that of the Atlantic by evaporation, would appear from the almost constant flow of a current towards the Grecian Archi pelago, through the Dardanelles. The amount of evaporation which takes place in the Black Sea must be also very great, as the discharge by the Bosphorus is wholly insufficient to account for the disposal of the immense quantities of water passed into it by its rivers. How it should retain its saltness, notwithstanding this large and constant accession of fresh water, has not yet been satisfactorily explained. The Black Sea was explored at an early period by the Greeks, who, from their ignorance of the arts of navigation and shipbuilding, represented it as beset with dangers of the most formidable kind ; and who, it has been said, gave it the name of Black Sea, as expressive of the dread and terror in which they held it a feeling further manifested by their placing the Cimmerian land of everlasting darkness on its N. shore. Having gathered courage from experience, the Greeks, at a later period, formed numerous establishments along its shores, from which they carried on an extensive trade in slaves, cattle, and corn ; and to this day, their vessels are the most numerous in the Black Sea, the greater part being em ployed in exporting the corn, hides, timber, iron, and furs of Russia, and in importing wine and fruits, and the manufac tures of England and France. BLACK WARRIOR RIVER, a river, U. States, Ala bama, falling into the Tombeckbe ; lat. 32 32 N.; Ion. 88 W., after a S.S.W. course of about 160 m. For steam boats, it is navigable to Tuscaloosa, 48 m. direct distance; and for boats, much higher up. BLACKAUTON, par. Eng. Devon ; 5850 ac. P. 1449. BLACKBURN, a parl. bor., market tn., and par. Eng land, co. Lancaster. The town is 21 m. N.N.W. Manchester, pleasantly situated in a valley, sheltered by hills on the N.E. and N.W. It is very irregularly built, but contains many respectable houses ; is lighted with gas, and amply supplied with water, but indifferently paved. The church, a spacious and elegant edifice, in the later English style, with a lofty square tower, was almost wholly rebuilt in 1819-26, at an expense of 30,000. The other churches are, the district churches of St. Paul, St. John, and St. Peter ; the latter two neat modern edifices. There are places of worship for Bap tists, Independents, Wesleyans, Primitive Methodists, War- renites, and Society of Friends ; also a Scotch kirk, and R. Catholic chapel ; a free grammar-school, several national, and numerous other schools, in which 5000 children, altogether, are educated ; a number of charitable institutions, and a gym nasium, established by a private company for the recreation of their workmen, for whose children the same benevolent individuals have erected a school, at a cost of 1 000. There is a spacious covered market, with tower and clock, a small theatre, assembly rooms, and a cloth hall, now seldom used for that purpose, the stalls for the sale of cloths being erected in the streets. The house is still shown in Blackburn in which the father of the late Sir Robert Peel was born. It is a homely-looking dwelling, situated in what is called Fish Lane. Blackburn is the seat of extensive manufactures of cotton goods, of which from 50,000 to 60,000 pieces are manufactured weekly in the town and vicinity, employing above 10,500 per sons. The annual value of the goods produced, is estimated at upwards of 2,000,0000. This species of manufacture has entirely superseded the Blackburn grays, a fabric for which that town was formerly celebrated, as it was, also, at an earlier period, for Blackburn checks. Some of the most important improvements, in the spinning and manufacturing of cotton, originated with James Har- greave, a carpenter in Blackburn, who was the inventor and patentee of the spinning- jenny. Blackburn commands an extensive inland navigation by means of the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, which passes the outskirts of the town; railways afford it still further facilities, BLACKFORD 419 BLAKENEY connecting it, on the E., with Burnley and the W. Riding of York ; on the W., with Preston and Liverpool ; and on the S., with Bolton and Manchester. There are two railway stations in the town, belonging, respectively, to the East Lancashire, and to the Bolton and Clitheroe Railway Companies. Black burn returns two members to the House of Commons. Re gistered electors (1849), 1116. Areaof par. 45,620 ac. Pop. of parl. bor. (1841), 36,186; of par. 71,711. BLACKPORD, par. Eng. Somerset ; 680 ac. Pop. 178. BLACKHEATH, a vil. and well-known heath, England, co. Kent, the former about 6 m. S.E. London, with which it is connected by the Greenwich Railway, pleasantly situated on a gentle slope on the verge of the heath. It consists of one principal street, spacious, but irregular ; the houses plain, and mostly of brick ; those of the working classes said to be ill drained, and otherwise exceedingly uncomfortable. Close by is Morden College, a quadrangular red brick building, founded by Sir John Morden, for the benefit of decayed Turkey merchants, many of whom reside here in the greatest comfort, and are remarkable for their longevity. The only place of worship in the village is the Wesleyan chapel. There are no manufactures in the village. The HEATH contains about 70 ac. within its present limited bounds. It is very picturesque, and, in summer, is much resorted to by pleasure parties, donkey-riding being one of the amusements for which it is well adapted. This celebrated heath has been the scene of many remarkable events, some of them of great historical interest. (Local Correspondent.) BLACKLAND, par. Eng. Wilts ; 460 ac. Pop. 81. BLACKMORE, par. Eng. Essex; 1990 ac Pop. 709. BLACKNESS, a vil. Scotland, co. Linlithgow, r. bank, Forth, 3 m. E. Borrowstounness. It has been long in a de caying state, and is now only resorted to by a few families in summer as bathing quarters. On a peninsula near the village stands Blackness Castle, one of the four forts in Scotland, stipulated to be kept in repair by the articles of union, and famous as the place of confinement of many of the Covenanters. BLACKPOOL, a vil. England, coast of Lancashire, be tween the estuaries of the Ribble and Wyre, 27 m. S.S.W. Lancaster, which has, of late years, attracted many visitors by its advantages as a watering-place. It is elevated con siderably above the sea at low water ; affords excellent ac commodation for visitors, a range of lofty houses about 1 m. long facing the sea. A library and news-room are kept open during the bathing season, and an excellent promenade has been formed along the edge of the breakwater. The air is healthy and bracing. The number of visitors present at one time, during the bathing season, varies from 2000 to 6000. Stationary pop. 1304. BLACKRATH, par. Irel. Kilkenny; 1759 ac. P. 341. BLACKROCK. 1, Atn. Ireland, co. Dublin, 4 m. S.E. Dublin Castle, S. shore of Dublin Bay, intersected by the Dublin and Kingston Railway. It is much resorted to as a bathing place by the inhabitants, and its numerous handsome villas form suburban retreats for the wealthy citizens of Dublin. Pop. 2372. 2, A vil., U. States, New York, near the foot of Lake Erie, 2 J m. below Buffalo, with which it is connected by railway. It has a church, with several stores, warehouses, and manufactories of different kinds. The harbour is formed by an immense pier projecting into the Niagara, built by the State of New York for the accommodation of vessels on the lake, and of boats which here enter it from the canal. Pop. (1840), 1800. BLACKTOFT, par. Eng. York, E. Riding ; 2730 ac. Pop. 505. BLACKWALL, a tn. England, forming an important suburb of London, co. Middlesex, par. Poplar, 4 m. E.S.E. St. Paul s, at the confluence of the Lea and the Thames. It is a scene of immense bustle and activity, containing a great number of shipbuilding yards, and also the E. and W. India docks. It is connected with the city of London by a railway ; and numerous steamers are continually arriving and departing from its wharfs. The Cabinet Ministers take an annual white bait dinner here, prior to the prorogation of Parliament. Pop. of par. (1841), 20,342. See LONDON. BLACKWATER, several rivers, Ireland:!, Rising in the S. part of co. Tyrone, and forming, for a considerable por tion of its course, the boundary between that county and cos. Monaghan and Armagh. After flowing S.E., N., and N.E., and receiving the Cullen and several other affluents, it falls into the S. part of Lough Neagh. Total course, 30 to 40 m. It long formed the boundary between the English Pale and the Tyrone O Neills. 2, The principal stream, co. Cork, and celebrated for the romantic and picturesque beauty of its banks; by Mr. Inglis esteemed not inferior to either the Rhine or the Danube. It rises on the confines of cos. Kerry and Limerick ; flows, generally E., by Mallow to Cappoquin, where it bends S., and falls into St. George s Channel, through Youghal harbour, after a course of upwards of 80 m. It is not navigable, but it abounds in salmon, and propels numer ous mills. The other streams of the same name, nearly 20 in number, are all small, and famous for nothing but trout. BLACKWELL, par. Eng. Derby ; 1700 ac. Pop. 477. BLACKWOOp RIVER, a small stream, W. Australia, co. Sussex, falling into the Indian Ocean at Cape Leeuwin, after a course of about 50 m. BLADON, par. Eng. Oxford ; 1350 ac. Pop. 687. BLAEN-PORTH, par., S. Wales, Cardigan. Pop. 752. BLAGDON, par. Eng. Somerset; 2520 ac. Pop. 1178. BLAIR-ATHOLE, a vil. and par. Scotland, co. Perth ; the former on a plain near the confluence of the Tilt and Garry, on the great Highland road from Perth to Inverness, 30 m. N.N. W. Perth. It consists of a single row of ornamental cottages, and a commodious inn, erected by the Duke of Athole. At a short distance are the parish church and school, both plain but sub stantial buildings. At the distance of about a quarter of a mile is Blair House or Castle, the seat of the nobleman above named a plain but beautifully situated building. There are here some larch trees of enormous size, which derive no small in terest from their being amongst the first planted in Scotland. The parish is about 30 m. in length, and 18 in breadth, and is remarkable for the beauty of its scenery. Pop. 2231. (Local Correspondent.) BLAIRGOWRIE, a vil. and par. Scotland, co. Perth. The VILLAGE is on a rising ground with a S. exposure, 15m. N.N.E. Perth. The streets are, in general, straight and well kept ; houses of stone, and slated, and, for the most part, well built. The churches and other places of worship comprise the parish church, a Free church, and Independent chapel ; an Episcopal chapel, and a R. Catholic chapel, none of which have any claim to architectural beauty. The principal schools are, the parish school, the Free church school, and a school supported chiefly by private subscription. There is here a charitable clothing society. Flax-spinning is carried on here and in the vicinity to a great extent, there being 110 fewer than 1 3 mills in the village and around it, all driven by water-power from the river Ericht. They employ, altogether, about 1200 hands ; from 300 to 400 more are engaged in hand-loom weaving. The salubrity of the climate, and the beauty of the scenery around Blairgowrie, have rendered it a favourite summer resort. The PARISH is about 1 1 m. in length, and upwards of 8 in breadth. Pop. of par. (1841), 3471 ; of vil. (1850), upwards of 3000. (Local Correspondent.) BLAIR-LOGIE, a small vil. Scotland, co. of, and about 3 m. N.E. Stirling, beautifully situated at the base of the Ochils, at the entrance to Glendevon, and much resorted to by invalids on account of the salubrity of its climate. Pop. 124. BLAISDON, par. Eng. Gloucester; 760 ac. Pop. 264. BLAISE, two small rivers, France ; the one rises above Senonches, arrond. Dreux, dep. Eure-et-Loire, and running N.E., falls into the Eure, after a course of about 25 m. ; the other rises above Juzennecourt, arrond. Chaumont, dep. Hauto Marne, and after a course of about 36 m. falls into the Marne. BLAISE (ST.), a well-built vil. Switzerland, can. of, and 4 m. N.E. Neufchatel, and on the borders of the lake. It has an old church with a lofty tower, three schools, and an ex tensive cotton-printing work. Good white wine is grown in the vicinity. Pop. 1050. BLAISOIS, a dist. France, which formed a dependency of anc. prov. Orleannais, and had Blois for its capital. It now forms the greater part of dep. Loh-et-Cher. BLAKEMERE, or BLACKMOOK, par. Eng. Hereford; 1080 ac. Pop. 183. BLAKENEY, a par. and small seaport, Eng. Norfolk; 1630 ac. The harbour is capacious and safe, and numerous vessels are employed in oyster-fishing. Pop. 1021. 1JLAKENIIAM 420 BLARNEY BLAKENHAM, two pars. Eng. Suffolk:!. Bldkf.nham (Great], 1850 ac. Pop. 180. 2, Blakenham (Little], 250 ac. Pop. 119. BL A KESLEY, par. Eng. Northampton; 2840 ac. P. 830. BLAMONT. 1, A tn. France, dep. Meurtho, 17 m. E. LuneVille, on the Vezouze. Its old castle was occupied by the allies in 1814. It manufactures calicoes, woollen yarn, earthenware, and leather. Pop. 2671. 2, A small tn., dep. Doubs, on the frontiers of Switzerland, 40 m. E.N.E. Besaii- 9on. It has a castle of considerable strength. Pop. 698. BLANC (L E ), a tn. France, dep. Indre, 32 m. W.S.W. Chateauroux, picturesquely situated on the Creuse, which divides it into the Upper and Lower town, and formerly a place of great strength, but now its fortifications are dis mantled. It is, however, one of the neatest towns in the department, and has recently received great improvements. It has a court of first resort, manufactures of coarse cloth, vinegar, earthenware, woollen yarn, linen thread, and an ex tensive brewery, and in the vicinity there are several blast furnaces, and other ironworks. Trade: principally in the wine of the district, iron, wood, and fish. Pop. 4770. BLANC MONT. See MONT BLANC. BLANCA, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 20 m. N.W. Murcia, in a rocky and barren district, near 1. bank, Segura. It has a spacious, paved, principal street, with several smaller streets and narrow hilly lanes diverging from it, a large square, a parish church, town and chapter house, prison, hospital, school, and some remnants of a Moorish castle. Manufactures : silk, linen fabrics, bass-mats, and oil, but people mainly en gaged in agriculture. Pop. 2240. BLANCH VILLESKILL, par. Irel. Kilkenny; 854 ac. Pop. 152. BLANCO CAPE, numerous capes in various parts of the world: 1, A well-known cape, W. coast, Africa ; lat. 20 46 30" N. ; Ion. 17 4 W. (R.) It forms the extremity of a rocky ridge, named Jebel-el-Bied or White Mountain, which, bending S., forms, with the shore, a spacious harbour, called the Great Bay. It was discovered by the Portuguese in 1441. A lucrative fishery is carried on here by natives of the Canary Islands, who resort to it in boats or vessels of 100 to 150 tons burden. 2, A cape, N. W. Africa; lat. 33 8 N.; Ion. 8 38 W. (R.) 3, A cape, N. Africa, Tunis; lat. 37 15 N.; Ion. 8 35 E. 4, A cape, Corfu Island; lat. (S. end) 39 20 N.; Ion. 20 10 E. 5, A cape, Palestine, N. of Acre, and 13 in. S. Tyre; lat. 33 5 N.; Ion. 35 E. (R.) 6, A cape, isl. Cyprus, S. W. coast ; lat. 34 20 N. ; Ion. 32 41 E. 7, A cape, isl. Majorca, S. \V. side; lat. 39 20 N. ; Ion. 2 47 E. (n.) 8, A cape, Peru, N. W. extremity; lat. 4 17 S. ; Ion. 81 16 W. (R.j 9, A cape, E. coast, Patagonia, N. of the Gulf of St. George ; lat. 47 12 S. ; Ion. 65 44 W. (K.) BLANDAIN, a vil., tn., and com. Belgium, prov. Hai- naut, 6 m. W.N.W. Tournai. The chief employments are weaving and spinning. Much oil is made here ; and butter, Loney, and wax are exported. Pop. 2783. BLANDFOED FORUM, a market tn. and par. England, co. Dorset. The TOWN is 14 m. N.E. Dorchester, beautifully situate on a bend of the Stow ; across which are three bridges, one of them having six arches. It has regularly laid out, well-paved, and lighted streets ; a townhall and theatre, neat and commodious buildings ; the church, situated in the centre of the town, an elegant modern structure, in the Grecian style, with a tower and spire ; places of worship for Independents and R. Catholics ; a free grammar-school, a blue-coat school, for clothing and instructing 12 boys, besides daily and board ing schools, with alms-houses, and other charities. Blandford was formerly celebrated for its fine point lace ; but shirt buttons are now the only manufacture, and even that is declining. Races are held in August, on fine downs, in the immediate vicinity. The weekly market is on Saturday ; and fairs are held on March 7, July 10, and November 8, for horses, sheep, cattle, and cheese. Blandford is a borough by prescription ; and a charter of incorporation was granted by James I. The government of the town is vested in a bailiff, four aldermen, and 12 councillors. Petty sessions are held every alternate week. The town has suffered severely, at four different times, from fire; the last time, June 4, 1731, it was nearly wholly destroyed. It gives the title of Mar quis to the Duke of Marlborough. Area of par. 920 ac. Pop. 3349. BLANDFORD (ST. MARY), par. Eng. Dorset; 420 ac. Pop. 407. BLANKENBERGH, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. W. Flanders, 9 m. N.W. Bruges. The village was once a seaport, and called Scharphout ; but was destroyed, with a great number of other villages, in 1334, by a rise of the tide; and afterwards rebuilt under its present name. Fishing is nearly the whole support of the inhabitants. Pop. 2125. BLANKENBURG, a tn. duchy of, and 38 m. S.S.E. Bruns wick, cap. circle of same name ; situate on the Harz Moun tains, surrounded by walls, and has a gymnasium, with several educational and charitable institutions. On the summit of a height close by the town is the ducal palace of Luisenburg, a heavy-looking structure, containing 270 apartments, and a large collection of paintings. Pop. 2800. The CIRCLE, area, about 144 sq. m., is, in some parts, well cultivated ; but a great portion of it is covered with forests. Pop. 22,600. Several other places in Germany have the same name. BLANKENESE, a tn. Denmark, prov. Holstein, r. bank, Elbe, 5 m. W. Altona, to which there is a good road ; and about lat. 53 34 N.; Ion. 9 48 E. Three small creeks of the Elbe divide it into three parts, which rise up in terraces to a considerable height. It is irregularly built ; but has a beautifully laid out park containing about 110 ac., the price of admission to which, a small sum, yields a considerable yearly amount, which is appropriated to charitable purposes. The inhabitants are nearly all engaged in seafaring pursuits. About 240 vessels, together 15,876 tons, belong to the place ; but there being no harbour, they are obliged to winter in Altona and Hamburg. There is a ferry across the Elbe, which is here about 1 m. broad. Pop. 3000. BLANKENHAYN, a tn. Germany, duchy of Saxe- Weimar, on a height 8 m. S.S.E. Weimar. It contains a castle, two churches, and a R. Catholic chapel ; and has manufactures of ginghams, porcelain, common pottery, and tiles. It has also some trade in wool and ribbons ; and three yearly markets. Pop. 1690. BLANKNEY-wiTH-LiNWOOD, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 6000 ac. Pop. 640. BLANQUEFORT, a tn. France, dep. Gironde, 6 m. from Bordeaux. In the vicinity, excellent white wines are grown. Four fairs are held annually. Pop. 1648. BLANQUILLA, an isl. Caribbean Sea, 53 m. N.N.W. Santa Margarita ; lat. 1 1 55 N. ; Ion. 64 37 W. (R.) It is about 15 m. in circuit, abounds in turtle, and is inhabited by a few fishermen. BLANTYRE, a vil. and par. Scotland, co. Lanark, the former on a plain 8 m. S.E. Glasgow, and 3 m. W. Hamilton. It is kept extremely neat and clean, and being tastefully adorned with trees, has a remarkably pleasing appearance. The houses are of stone, and generally well built. The parish church is in the village, and at a little distance from it is a Free church. Pop. 261. About 1| m. from Blantyre stands a village called Blantyre Works, or Low Blantyre, containing a manufacturing pop. of 1750, connected with the works carried on there by Henry Monteith and Co., including the branches of cotton spinning, weaving by hand and power loom, and Turkey-red dyeing. The houses of the village are beautifully situated about 90 ft. above the level of the river, and over look a fine sloping bank of about six acres, laid out in green sward as recreation ground for the inhabitants. The houses and streets are lighted with gas, and well supplied with river and spring water. A station of the Hamilton branch of the Clydesdale Junction Railway is within 200 yards of the vil lage, affording communication with Glasgow, Hamilton, &c. The PARISH, about 6 m. in length, and about 1 m. in breadth, contains the ruins of Blantyre Priory, founded by Alexander II., situated on a high rock on the banks of the Clyde, opposite Bothwell Castle. Pop. of par. 3047. BLANZY, a vil. France, dep. Saone-et-Loire (Burgundy), which gives its name to part of a very important mining district, known as the coal-field of Creuzot and Blanzy. BLARNEY, a vil. Ireland, co. of, and 4 m. N.W. Cork, on a rivulet of same name, here crossed by a handsome bridge of three arches. It is small, but well built ; and, besides the parish church, contains a national school and dispensary. Flax and cotton were formerly manufactured to some extent, but both of these branches have now decayed. Spinning and dyeing woollen yarn, is, however, still carried on ; and there BLAS (SAN) 421 BLENHEIM PARK is an extensive paper-mill, employing about 170 hanfo. Blarney Castle stands on an isolated limestone rock, at tha junction of the Blarney and Comane; erected in the 15th century, and the scene of several interesting historical events ; but deriving its chief notoriety from a stone in its N.E. angle, about 20 ft. from the top, bearing a Latin inscription, record ing the date of the erection, and called the Blarney Stone ; to which tradition ascribes the faculty of communicating to all who kiss it, that species of most persuasive fluency of speech, commonly called blarney. The groves of Blarney are extensive and interesting ; and beneath the castle there are also some curious natural caves. The Dublin and Cork Railway passes close to the vil. Pop. 253. BLAS (SAN). 1, A point or cape, and bay (the latter called also Mandingo Gulf), Caribbean Sea, N. coast, isthmus Panama, and precisely at the narrowest part of the latter, which is here not more than 30 m. broad. The point, which forms the N.W. side of the bay, is in lat. 9 35 N. ; Ion. 78 58 W. (it.) The mouth of the gulf from Cape Bias to the anchorage of Mandingo, is 6 in. N. and S. ; and from that line, as much to the \V., its coasts are low, and covered with mangroves, which run into the sea. The anchorage is sheltered, and has depth sufficient for any class of vessels. In the gulf, and extending from it several miles E., there are numerous islets and cays, with banks. It is about 50 m. E. Porto Bello, and 70 m. N.E. Chagres. 2, A seaport tn. Mexico, Jalisco, on an island, at the embouchure of the Santiago, in the Pacific Ocean, 37 m. W.S.W. Tepic; lat. 21 32 30" N. ; Ion. 105 15 30" W. (R.) The climate is ex tremely unhealthy, the harbour bad, and the trade very inconsiderable. 3, A tn., S. America, La Plata, on the bay of same name, 480 m. S.W. Buenos Ayres ; lat. 40 32 S. ; Ion. 62 10 W. The port is known also to sailors as the liubia de todos Santos. Pop. about 2000. 4, A cape, N. shore, Gulf of Mexico, mainland of Florida, U. States; lat. 29 40 N. ; Ion. 85 22 W. (R.) BLASENDORF, or BALASFALVA, a market tn. Transyl vania, in a very fertile district, on the angle formed by the confluence of the Great and the Little Kokel, 39 m. N.N.W. Hermanstadt. It is the see of a bishop of the Greek United Church; and contains, besides the cathedral, several other churches, a divinity hall, a diocesan seminary, a gymnasium, a normal school, and a monastery. Pop. 4000. BLASEWITZ, a vil. Saxony, circle of, and about 5 m. S.S.E. Dresden, 1. bank, Elbe ; and only deserving of notice because Schiller has named the female Suttler in the camp of Wallenstein Gustel of Blasewitz, doubtless after a person of the same name, who, in Schiller s time, sold cakes at the inn close to the ferry. Pop. 230. BLASKAT, or BLASQUET ISLANDS, a group of 12 rocky Islets, lying off the S.W. coast of Ireland, N. side of entrance to Dingle Bay, co. Kerry, the largest of which, called the Great Blaskat, is 2 m. long. BLASTON (ST. MICHAEL), par. Eng. Leicester; 1300 ac. Pop. 102. BLATHERWYCKE, par. Eng. Northampton; 2750 ac. Pop. 236. BLATNA, a tn. Bohemia, circle, Prachin, cap. lordship of same name, on the Uslawa, 52 m. S.W. Prague. It con tains a palace, a deanery church, townhouse, school, and hospital, and has a potash refinery. Gold was at one time found in the neighbourhood. Pop. 1500. BLATON, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. Hainaut, 14 m. S.E. Tournai, with manufactures of woollen stuffs, hosiery, serges, &c. It has also limekilns, and some trade in cattle. Pop. 2608. BLAUBEUREN, a tn. Wtirtemberg, circle of the Danube, on the Aach, 9 m. W. Ulm. The principal buildings are the church, and the monastery, which was founded in 1467, and contains some good pictures. Besides woollen and linen manu factures, Blaubeuren possesses several breweries, a vinegar work, and numerous mills, among others, an iron, a saw, an oil, a paper, and a fulling mill. Pop. 1 973. BLAXHALL, par. Eng. Suffolk; 1930 ac. Pop. 576. BLAYDON, a vil. England, co. Durham, r. bank, Tyne, 4 m. W. Newcastle, a station of the York, Newcastle, and Berwick Railway. It has an Established, and three Wesleyan churches. Large quantities of coals are embarked here in keels, to be shipped at Shields. Here are extensive works for the manufacture of lead ; several white lead and sulphuric acid works; a chain and nail manufactory; a foundry for ovens, stoves, and other articles ; a coke and lamp-black factory ; a steel and iron forge ; and a fire-brick manufactory. Pop. 1114. BLAYDON -BURN, a hamlet, England, co. Durham, 6 m. W.S.W. Newcastle, pleasantly situated on the Tyne, at the confluence of a small rivulet. It has extensive works, where fire-bricks and various articles of fire-clay are manu factured. Here is also an extensive colliery, employing from 200 to 300 hands. BLAYE [anc. Elavia], a seaport tn. France, dep. Gironde, r. bank, Gironde ; lat. 45 7 N. ; Ion. 41 W. It is a forti fied place of the fourth class, and lies at the foot of a rock, on the top of which stands the Upper town, called the citadel, a modern fortification built round an old Gothic castle. The glacis is planted with trees, and forms an agreeable promenade. Blaye is also defended by Fort Medoc, on the r. bank of the Gironde, and by the Patd, a fortified tower oil a small islet in the middle of the river, here 2 m. wide, which is thus completely commanded. The fort of Blaye is much frequented, inward bound vessels delivering their manifests here, and out ward bound usually calling for provisions. This town has courts of first resort, and of commerce, an hospital, and an agricultural society, with manufactures of linen and woollen stuffs, brandy distilleries, glassworks, potteries, and building- yards for coasting vessels; a considerable trade in wine, brandy, oil, soap, apples, nuts, dried fruits, resin, ship and house timber, &c. In 1832, the Duchess de Berri, who had been arrested in Nantes, was confuted in the citadel of Blaye. Pop. 3348. BLAZEY (ST.), par. Eng. Cornwall ; 2000 ac. P. 3234. BLEADON, par. Eng. Somerset; 2490 ac. Pop. 778. BLEAN, par. Eng. Kent ; 5760 ac. Pop. 606. BLEASB Y, par. Eng. Notts ; 1550 ac. Pop. 353. BLECHINGDON, par. Eng. Oxford ; 2540 ac. P. 638. BLEUD-FA, or BLETHVAUGH, par., S. Wales, Radnor. Pop. 235. BLEDINGTON, par. Eng. Gloucester ; 11 10 ac. P. 354. BLEDLOW-wiTH-BLEDOW-KiDGE, par. Eng. Bucks; 4130 ac. Pop. 1205. BLEGNO, a river and valley, Switzerland, can. Tessin. The VALLEY lies in the N. part of the canton, formed by the mountains of the Laventina Valley on the one side, and of the Grisons on the other ; it is watered by the river, and is fertile, yielding fruit and grain, and depasturing cattle. The RIVER falls into the Tessin, after a S. course of about 15 m. BLEIBACH, a tn. Austria, Carinthia, circle of, and about 5 m. W. Villach, in the valley of the Drau, and not far from the famous Bleiberg or Lead Mountain. It contains two churches, a R. Catholic and Lutheran. Pop. 5600. BLEIBERG, a vil. Austria, Carinthia, about 7 m. W. Villach, and so called from standing in the centre of the important mining district of Bleiberg, which yields annually about 1600 tons of lead and copper. BLEICHERODE, a tn. Prussia, prov. Saxony, gov. Erfurt, 11 m. W.S.W. Nordhausen, at the foot of the Pocken. It is walled, and has considerable woollen and cotton manu factures, tanneries, bleachfields, and oil-mills. Pop. 2780. BLEISWIJK, a vil. Holland, prov. S. Holland, 7 m. N. Rotterdam, in a pleasant fertile situation, surrounded by a canal called de Snelle. It has a respectable townhouse, in which is a weigh-house ; two churches, and a school. BLELING, a small principality, cap. same name, N. side, isl. Bali, against which a successful expedition was directed by the Dutch, in July 1846, in consequence of the piratical doings of the Rajah and his subjects. The TOWN, lat. 8 15 S.; Ion. 115 5 E., is the second on the island. BLEND WORTH, par. Enc. Hants ; 31 10 ac. Pop. 280. BLENHEIM, or BLINDHEIM, a vil. Bavaria, on the Danube, circle, Schwaben and Neuburg, near the town of Hochstadt, celebrated as the scene of the great battle fought between the English, aided by Prince Eugene and the Im perialists, under Marlborough, and the French and Bavarian forces, under Marshal Tallard, on August 13, 1704, when the latter were defeated with a loss of 40,000men, killed, wounded, and taken prisoners, 120 pieces of cannon, and 300 standards. BLENHEIM PARK, a tract of land, England, co. Ox ford, 60 rn.W.N. W. London, containing 2940 ac., bestowed by BLERF, 422 BLOIS Queen Anne, upon the great Duke of Maryborough, in reward of the splendid victory of Blenheim ; and subsequently con firmed by Act of Parliament, the House of Commons further voting the sum of 500,000, for the erection of a suitable palace. The structure was completed in 1715, after a design by Sir John Vanbrough. BLERE, a tn. France, dep. Indre-et-Loire, 16 m. E.S.E. Tours, 1. bank, Cher, here crossed by a bridge, built, about the middle of the 12th century, by Henry II. of England. Ble re is the entrepot for the timber from the forest of Loche, and for most of the merchandise that comes down the Cher, from the Berry and the Bourbonnais. In the canton, and near the town of Ble re , is the castle of Chenoneeaux, which at first was a simple manor-house, but extended to its present dimensions in the reign of Francis I. It was purchased, in 1535, by Henry II., who gave it, with the duchy of Valen- tinois, to the celebrated Diana of Poitiers, who embellished it with great magnificence ; but, before her designs were com pleted, was obliged to cede it to Catherine de Medicis, who continued the embellishments on a still more lavish scale. It was afterwards possessed by the house of Conde; and, in 1733, was purchased by M. Dupin (former General), the wit and beauty of whose widow attracted the most distinguished literati of the last century to the castle. Voltaire, Montes quieu, Buffon, and Rousseau, who wrote one or two pieces for the theatre, were amongst the visitors. The castle is constructed on a kind of bridge across the Cher, and has a long gallery that leads from one side of the river to the other. It fortunately escaped the Revolution, and is in perfect pre servation. Many fine pictures decorate the interior. The architecture, furniture, and decorations all belong to the time of the Valois. Among the curiosities, is shown the mirror used by Mary, Queen of Scots, when married to the Dauphin. Pop. 1972. BLESSINGTON, a tn. and par. Ireland, co. Wicklow, on the Liffey, 16m. S.W. Dublin. The TOWN is tolerably well built, has a thriving appearance, and comprises a hand some church, two R. Catholic chapels, several schools, a dispensary, and numerous elegant private dwellings. Manu factures : frieze cloth, and linen fabrics. Fairs are held in May, July, and November. In the PARISH, which is for the most part hilly, are several quarries of excellent granite. Area, 15,781 ac. Pop. (1841), 2168. BLETCHINGLY, a tn. and par. England, co. Surrey. The town, 19 m. S. London, is pleasantly situated on an emi nence, and commands an extensive prospect of the S. Downs, and other parts of Sussex. It has a church, a venerable and spacious edifice, in the early English style ; an Independent chapel, an endowed grammar-school for 25 boys, alms-houses for 10 aged persons, and several smaller charities. The in habitants are principally employed in agriculture. It formerly returned two members to Parliament, but was disfranchised by the Reform Bill ; since which it has sunk into a mere vil lage. The market has long been discontinued ; but there are two annual fairs, for horses, cattle, and pigs. The South- Eastern, and the London, Brighton, and South-coast Railways, have each a station at Bletchingley. Area of par. 5250 ac. Pop. 3546. BLETCHINGTON, two pars. Eng. Sussex:!, Bletcli- ingtvn (East), 2110 ac. Pop. 163. 2, Bletcliington (West), 2590 ac. Pop. 04. BLETCHLEY, par. Eng. Bucks ; 2220 ac. Pop. 685. BLETHERSTON, par., S. Wales, Pembroke. Pop. 271. BLETSOE, par. Eng. Bedford ; 2220 ac. Pop. 420. BLEWBERRY, par. Eng. Berks ; 6950 ac. Pop. 1096. BLEWFIELDS, or BLUEFIELDS, a tn. Central America, Mosquito territory ; lat. 11 59 18" N. ; Ion. 83 41 30" W. (R.) It stands on an inlet of the Caribbean Sea, on a height, near the mouth of the river of same name, has a good harbour, and is the residence of the king. The RIVEK rises about lat. 13 1(K N. ; Ion. 86 O 7 W., flows S.E., and falls into the inlet on which the town stands, about 7 m. N., after a course of upwards of 200 m., for 80 of which it is navigable. BLICKLING, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 2240 ac. Pop. 356. BL1DA. See BELIDA. BLIDWORTH, par. Eng. Nottingham ; 6610 ac. Pop. 1132. BLTEP, a small river, W. Germany, which rises in an isolated part of the territory of Saxe-Coburg, and, after a circuitous course through a corner of Rhenish Prussia and Rhenish Bavaria, joins r. bank, Sarre, near Sarreguemine. BLIESKASTEL, a tn. Bavaria, Palatinate, cap. can. of same name, on the Blies, here crossed by a bridge, 5 m. W. Zwei-Briicken or Deux Ponts. It contains two churches and a grammar-school, and has a tobacco-factory. Pop. of tn. 1874; of can. 19,762. BLIGII, an inland co. New S. Wales, 88 m. in length, S.W. to N.E., and about 28 ra. in breadth at the broadest part, or throughout about half its length, and from 10 to 15 m. throughout the remainder ; area, 1683 sq. m., or 1,077,120 ac. The plains in this county are extremely fertile. Live stock : horses, 927; head of cattle, 9035; pigs, 151; sheep, 120,986. The principal town is Ailsa; the others are Dalkeith and Montefiores. Pop. 598. BLIGH, a dist. New S. Wales, containing 5,000,000 ac., bounded, S.W. by the Macquarie river, and N. by the Liver pool range. Live stock: horses, 695; head of horned cattle, 35,754; pigs, 100; sheep, 124,211. Pop. 788, of whom 615 are males. BLIJHAM, a vil. Holland, prov. Groningen, 3 m. S.W. Winschoten, near the Hanoverian frontier, with two churches and a school. The vicinity is chiefly fertile clay lands, in the cultivation of which the inhabitants are mainly employed. Pop. 800. BLIND BAY, New Zealand, N. end, isl. New Munster, off Cook s Strait, having, at its entrance, D Urville Island on the E.,and Cape Farewell on the W., distant from each other 50 m. ; lat. 40 42 S. ; and between Ion. 173 and 174 E. BLIS, BALIS, or BELES [anc. Barlissus], a ruined tn. Syria, 60 m. E.S.E. Aleppo, r. bank, Euphrates ; lat. 36 1 21" N. ; Ion. 38 7 10" E. The ruins lie among chalk hills and dry valleys, and extend about 2 m. parallel to the river, and about half a mile from it ; and consist of remains, both Roman and Saracenic, including mosques, castles, and domestic buildings. There are here the remains of a landing-place or port, and Blis is supposed at one time to have been the Euphrates port of Aleppo. (Chesney s Euphrates Expedition.) BLISLAND, par. Eng. Cornwall ; 6800 ac. Pop. 688. BLISWORTH, par. Eng. Northampton ; 1 980 ac. P. 882. BLITHFIELD-wiTH-NEWTON, par. Eng. Stafford ; 4180 ac. Pop. 390. BLOCK ISLAND, an isl., U. States, state of Rhode Island, 10 m. S. the mainland; lat. 41 13 24" N. ; Ion. 71 35 W. (K.) The surface is uneven and hilly, and the soil fertile. It has no harbour. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in fishing. BLOCKLEY, par. Eng. Worcester ; 7660 ac. P. 2136. BLOF1ELD, par. Eng. Norfolk; 1990 ac. Pop. 1112. BLOIS [anc. Blesum, Blcsia], a tu. France, cap. dep. Loire- et-Cher, 99 m. S.S. W. Paris ; lat. 47 35 20" N. ; Ion. 1 20 24" E. (c.) ; built in the form of an amphitheatre, r. bank, Loire, on one of the finest sites of the kingdom. From its position, on an acclivity, it is divided into upper and lower town. The upper portion, which more properly forms the town of Blois, is ill built ; with narrow, crooked streets, almost impassable by carriages, but clean, and ornamented with fountains. The lower town consists of a series of well-built houses, extending along a handsome quay ; a stone bridge of 1 1 arches, which crosses the river at this point, unites it to one of the principal suburbs. The castle of Blois is celebrated from its historical associations. It was for several centuries the abode of the Counts of that name, and afterwards the favourite residence of the Kings of France. It has been inhabited by more than a hundred princes or crowned heads, who from time to time embellished and extended it. Louis XII. was born there; and Francis I., Henry II., Charles IX., and Henry III. held their courts in it. Amongst other events, the Castle of Blois was the scene of the murder of the Guises. During the religious wars which at that period (1588) desolated France, the states known by the name of the States of Blois, were convoked in the castle by Henry III., to put an end if possible to the troubles by which the kingdom was distracted. The Due de Guise, and his brother the Cardinal, were on their way to attend the sitting, when the former was stabbed, almost in presence of the King. The Cardinal was murdered next day by some soldiers in the tower of the castle, and his body was burnt, to prevent the leaguers from making relics of his remains. The castle has been rebuilt and extended at so many various periods, that BLOKZTJL 423 BOAVISTA nothing remains of its original structure, except the Gothic tower. The E. portion was built by Louis XII., the N. by Francis I., and the fine W. facade by Gaston of Orleans, after the designs of Mansard. The castle is now used as a barracks; but the states hall, the Queen s room, and the cor- COURT OF THE CASTLE OF LOIS -- From France M le ct Pittoresque ridor where the Duke of Guise was assassinated, are still pointed out. The finest modern building of Blois is the episcopal palace, built by Gabriel, architect to Louis XIV. It is now used as the hotel of the Prefecture. The old church of the Jesuits, built after the designs of Mansard, is an inter esting structure. The aqueduct that supplies part of the town with water, is cut through the solid rock. It is a stupendous work, and is supposed to have been executed by the Eomans. Blois has also a fine public promenade, a public library, containing 17,000 volumes ; a theatre, hospital, bo tanic garden, lunatic asylum, and several interesting monu ments. It is the seat of a bishopric, a court of first resort, and of commerce, and has an exchange and an agricultural society, communal college, two seminaries, and a royal stud. Manufactures: gloves, vinegar, earthenware, and leather. It has a considerable trade in wine, brandy, cloth, paper, ship-timber, and firewood. Blois is the principal entrepot for the spirit called Orleans brandy. The town is of great antiquity, and was formerly the capital of an extensive county. In the 16th century, it was twice the seat of the states-general of the kingdom. When the allied armies menaced Paris in 1814, the Empress Maria Louisa retired here, and made this place for a short period the seat of imperial government, the last acts of which were dated and despatched from Blois. Pop. (1846), 13,132. BLOKZIJL, a market tn. Holland, prov. Overijsel, 16m. N.N.W. Zwolle, at the embouchure of the Blokzijler Aa, in the Zuider Zee. It is a regularly built, good-looking town, with two churches, Calvinistic and Baptist ; a synagogue, three schools, and a weigh-house. The chief occupations are trade, shipping, the manufacture of salt and leather. Pop. 1700. BLOMBERG, a tn. Germany, Lippe-Detmold, on the Distel, 26 m. S.S.E. Minden. It is entered by three gates, contains two churches, a townhouse, and old castle ; and has a bark-mill, a fulling-mill, and a tilework. Pop. 1950. BLOOMINGTON, a vil., U. States, Indiana, 43 m. S. Indianopolis. It has five churches, belonging to different religious bodies ; a female academy, and a university. Pop. (1840), 1550. BLO-NORTON, par. Eng. Norfolk; 1400 ac. Pop. 435. BLORE, par. Eng. Stafford; 3730 ac. Pop. 333. BLOTZHEIM, or BLADOLSHEISI, a vil. France, dep. Haut-Rhin, 15 m. E. Altkirch. Near it is a ferruginous spring. Pop. 2280. BLOXHAM, par. Eng. Oxford ; 4240 ac. Pop. 1543. BLOXHOLME, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 1100 ac. Pop. 67. BLOXWORTH, par. Eng. Dorset ; 3420 ac. Pop. 306. BLUDENZ, or PLUDENZ, a tn. Austria, Vorarlberg, r. bank, 111, 12 m. S.E. Feldkirch. It is a sombre-looking place, has a capacious monastery, salt and alum works, and, on a neighbouring hill, an old castle. Pop. 1865. ELUEFIELDS. See BLEWFIELDS. BLUE MOUNTAINS. 1, A system of mountains occu pying the E. portion of isl. Jamaica. The principal ridge runs from E. to W., and varies in height from 5000 to 6000 ft. Some isolated peaks rise still higher. 2, A range of moun tains in E. Australia, about 70 m. from the coast, stretching generally from N. to S., and lying between lat. 33 and 35 S. 3, A range of mountains in the Oregon territory, mid way between the Rocky Mountains and the coast ; they are about 200 m. in length, and attain an elevation, at the highest part, of 2400 ft. 4, Blue Ridge, the E. portion of the Alle- ghany Mountains, U. States, branching off from the main range in N. Carolina, crossing the state of Virginia, and extending to the high lands on the Hudson River, the highest peak has an elevation of about 4000 ft. BLUNDESTON, par. Eng. Suffolk ; 1500 ac. Pop. 592. BLUNHAM, par. Eng. Bedford ; 3300 ac. Pop. 1050. BLUNSDON (ST. ANDREWS), par. Eng. Wilts; 1420 ac. Pop. 79. BLUNTISHAM-AND-EARiTH, par. Eng. Huntingdon; 3410 ac. Pop. 1457. BLYA, a vil. Holland, prov. Friesland, 12 m. N.E. Leeu- warden ; with a church and school. The inhabitants, chiefly agriculturists, are said to be the best flax-growers in Friesland. Pop. 990. BLYBOROUGH, par. Eng. Lincoln; 3080 ac. Pop. 197. BLYMHILL-wiTn-BRiNCTON, par. Eng. Stafford; 2190 ac. Pop. 633. BLYTH (SOUTH), or BLYTH NOOK, a small seaport tn. England, co. Northumberland, r. bank, Blyth, at its confluence with the German Ocean, 11J m. N.N.W. Newcastle; lat. 55 7 30" N. ; Ion. 1 30 W. It has but one principal street, crooked, and indifferently kept ; houses of stone, ill built ; and water carted into the town. It has a chapel of ease connected with the Established church, four places of worship belonging to dissenters, day and Sunday-schools, a mechanics institu tion, baths, and two public gardens. The harbour is secure, and the entrance for small vessels at all times free from obstruction. A lighthouse was erected here in 1788, which shows a fixed light visible for 10 m. in clear weather. There are also a beacon light, a dry dock, two slipways for building and repairing ships, and a custom-house. In the neighbour hood are several coal mines. The export of coals and salt, and of iron, from the Bedlington ironworks, 5 m. distant, employs about 100 vessels. The Cramlington station of the York, Newcastle, and Berwick Railway, is 6 m. from the town. Pop. (1841), 1921. North Blyth, situated opposite S. Blyth, 1. bank of the river, is a small vil., inhabited chiefly by fisher men and pilots. BLYTH, a par. and vil. England, co. York, W. Riding, area, 17,070 ac. The vil. lies 6 m. N.N.W. East Retford, on a gentle acclivity ; and possesses a church and several charities. It was formerly a place of some importance. Pop. of par. 3488. BLYTH , a river, England, co. Suffolk, rising near Lax- field, and, after an E. course of 16 m., falls into the German Ocean, 1 m. S. by W. SouthwoJd. It is navigable to Hales- worth, a distance of about 8 m. BLYTHBURGH, par. Eng. Suffolk ; 3590 ac. Pop. 837. BLYTHFORD, par. Eng. Suffolk ; 1240 ac. Pop. 223. BLYTON-wiTH-WHARTON, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 2830 ac. Pop. 647. BO, or Po, a group of seven islands, Indian Archipelago, E.S.E. isl. Gilolo; lat. 1 17 S.; Ion. 129 18 E. They abound in cocoa-nuts and sago, are very populous, and subject to the Rajah of Popo. BOARHUNT, par. Eng. Hants ; 1850 ac. Pop. 232. BOAVISTA, or BONAVISTA, the most E., and one of the largest of the Cape de Verde Islands, 21 m. S. by E. Ilha de Sal, and 300 m. W. by N. Cape Verde, the nearest point of the African coast ; lat. (N. point) 16 5 N. ; Ion. 22 48 W. It is of irregular form, about 16m. long, and as many broad ; and, as its name implies, presents a beautiful appearance. Hills and valleys alternate, while, in some places, low points project into the sea ; on the E. side, in particular, is a low projecting point, not discernible at a distance, from which extends a reef of dangerous rocks ; and N. this point are several rocky islets, terminating in another reef, which has caused the destruction of several vessels. Salt is the principal article of trade, exchanged for clothes and other necessaries. The best and BOBBING 424 BODE safest of the several anchorages is English Road, a little off the only town on the island. The inhabitants exhibit every variety of colour, owing to intermarriages ; and several years ago were estimated at 3000. BOBBING, par. Eng. Kent; 1040 ac. Pop. 404. BOBBINGTON, par. Eng. Salop and Stafford ; 2320 ac. Pop. 418. BOBBTNGWORTH, par. Eng. Essex ; 1430 ac. P. 357. BOBBIO, a tn. Sardinian States, cap. prov. of same name, gov. of, and 37 m. N.E. Genoa, on the Trebbia. It is surrounded by walls, has a dismal appearance, and is the seat of a bishopric suffragan to Genoa, and of a district court of justice. It owes its origin to a monastery founded here in the 7th century. In 1743, it was ceded to Sardinia by Austria. Pop. 4000. The PROVINCE is 25 m. long, and 10 ni. broad. A spur of the Apennines divides it into two parts ; the S. portion watered by the Trebbia, and the N. by the Stafora and Tidone. It is divided into four maudements, which are again subdivided into 27 communes. Pop. 31,354. BOBER, a river, Prussian Silesia, which rises near a vil. of same name, in the Riesengebirge, and after receiving, 1. bank, the Queis and Oels, and, r. bank, the Sprotta, falls into the Oder, near Crossen, after a N.N.W. course of nearly 180 m. BOBERKA, or BOBRKA, a small tn. and lordship, Aus tria, Galicia, circle, Berzezany, 19 m. S.S.E. Lemberg. It contains a R. Catholic and a Greek church. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in weaving linen. Pop. 2700. BOBIA, ABOBBI, or PIRATE ISLAND. See AMBOISES. BOBLINGEN, a vil. Wiirtemberg, 10m. S.W. Stuttgart; with woollen, linen, and cotton manufactures, vinegar and chemical works. Pop. 3300. The DISTRICT, area, 54 geo. sq. m., has a pop. of 40,000, employed chiefly in weaving, the culture of hops, and the timber trade. BOBROUISK, a fortified tn. Russia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 85 m. S.E. Minsk, at the junction of the Bobrouiia with the Berezina. It has four churches and a school, and forms a station for steam-vessels navigating the Berezina and Dnieper. It was besieged by the French, without success, in 1812. Pop. 5500. BOBROV, or BOBROFF [beaver], a tn. Russia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 53 m. S.E. Voroneje, r. bank, Bitioug. It has two churches, extensive gardens, and some trade. Pop. 5500. BOCA, or BOCCA [mouth]. 1, Boca del Toro, a channel between two islands, leading into the bay of the same name, Carribean Sea, N. coast, Veragua ; lat. 9 20 30" N. ; Ion. 82 15 15" W.(R.) 2, Boca del Drcif/o, a channel leading into the same bay, 15 m. N.W. the former. 3, Boca de Chiriqui, a channel, Carribean Sea, leading through a cluster of islands into a lagoon of the same name, N. coast, Veragua, 40 m. S.E. Boca del Toro. 4, Boca Cliica [little mouth], the entrance into the harbour of Cartagena, New Granada ; lat. 10 20 N. ; Ion. 75 38 W. BOCAGE (LE), two dists. France, the one forming part of dep. Vendee, and so called from the great quantity of wood which covers it; and the other, called also Bessin Meridional, which belonged to prov. Normandy, and had Vire for its capital, is now included in dep. Calvados. BOCAINA, a mountain-range, Brazil, prov. Rio de Janeiro. It is an offset of the Orgaos or Organ Mountains. BOCAYRENTE, a walled tn. Spain, prov. of, and 50 m. S. S.W. Valencia, on a small conical hill at the \V. extremity of the valley of Agres. It has hilly and inconvenient streets, four squares, a parish church, three well-attended schools, a town- Lall, small and very unwholesome subterraneous prison, an hospital, public storehouse, and an extensive palace of the Baron de Casasnova. Manufactures: linen and woollen fabrics, cloth and baize of all kinds, hats, soap, hemp, and brandy. A monthly market is held. Pop. 4074. BOCCA TIGRIS, or BOGUE, the name given to the embouchure of the principal branch of the Chu Kiang, or Canton river, China. At this point the river suddenly ex pands to an estuary of 20 m. in breadth. To the S.W. there are several shallow channels, by which the flat-bottomed trading craft of the Chinese can reach Canton ; but British ships, and all others of large draught of water, can ascend the river by the Bogue only. On this account it was strongly fortified by the Chinese, but, though mounting 120 camions, I was forced, with little effort, by the British frigates Imogene and Andromache, in September 1834. BOCHNIA, a tn. Austria, Galicia, cap. circle of same name, gov. Lemberg, 25 m. E.S.E. Cracow, near the Raba. It is tolerably well built, with several churches, a gymnasium, a grammar and other schools, and a board for the government of mines and saltworks. The salt mines here employ 500 persons, and yield about 12,500 tons per annum. Pop. 5500. The CIRCLE, area, 800 geo. sq. m., contains five municipal and eight market towns, and 377 villages. In addition to agriculture and the ordinary handicrafts, mining, particularly that of salt, gives employment to the inhabitants. There are also considerable manufactures of linen, and various articles of ironware. Pop. 178,760. BOCHOLD, or BOCHOLT, a tn. Prussia, prov. Westphalia, gov. Minister, on the Aa, 15 m. E.N.E. Cleves. It contains three churches, one of them a beautiful structure, in the Gothic style, and a castle of the princes of Salm-Salm; and has manufactures of silk, cotton, and woollen stuffs, bonnets, and hosiery; with several distilleries. In the neighbourhood are valuable iron mines, and ironworks, which produce sheet iron, and all kinds of castings. Pop. 4462. BOCHOLZ, a vil. Holland, pcov. Limburg, 13 m. E.S.E. Maastricht, with a R. Catholic church, a school, an old castle, a brewery, and a distillery. Pop. 680. BOCHUM, a tn. Prussia, prov. Westphalia, gov. Arns- berg, cap. circle of same name, 25 m. N.E. Diisseldorf. It is walled, contains four churches and chapels, and has manu factures of kerseymeres and ironmongery. Pop. 3813. The CIRCLE, area, 104 geo. sq. m., consists of an undulating plain, which is very fertile, watered by the Ruhr, and the Emsch, and studded over with old castles, which gives the whole district a very picturesque appearance. Pop. 48,058, almost all Protestants, only 2000 being R. Catholics, and 300 Jews. BOCKAU, a mining vil. Saxony, circle, Zwickau, dist. of, and 4 m. W.N.W. Schwarzenberg. It has a tin furnace, several chemical, and numerous vitriol works. In the neigh bourhood, silver and cobalt are worked, and medicinal herbs extensively grown. Pop. 1700. BOCKENHEIM, a tn. Hesse-Cassel, prov. and circle of Hanau, not far from Frankfort-on-the-Main. It is a very stirring place ; and has numerous manufactures cloth, straw hats, ironware, machinery, and the well-known Hessian cru cibles. It has also a bleachfield, and a distillery for spirits of wine. Pop. 3300. BOCKING, a vil. and par. England, co. Essex. The village lies on a gentle acclivity on the Blackwater, a little N. from Braintree; with which it forms a continuous town, though in a different parish. It consists of one principal street, and several smaller; some of the houses are well built ; most of the others are merely lath and plaster. It is well supplied with water, but not lighted. The only build^ ings of any note are the parish church, an Independent and Wesleyan chapels, and the union workhouse. The schools are, a national school, a British school, and a respectable boarding-school. There are several minor charities ; also a literary and mechanics institute. Bocking was, formerly, celebrated for its baize manufacture ; but this branch has given place to the silk trade, which is carried on here to a great extent ; the weaving of silks, satins, and velvets, em ploying many hundred hands. There is also a crape manu factory. Area of par. 3800 ac. Pop. 3437. (Local Cor respondent.) BOCKLETON, par. Eng. Hereford ; 3300 ac. Pop. 358. BOCOGNANO, a tn. France, isl. Corsica, 16 m. N.E. Ajaccio, in an extensive and very fertile plain, near 1. bank, Gravone. Many persons in easy circumstances retire to it during the summer heats, to enjoy its cooling breeze. Pop. 2631. BOCONNOC, par. Eng. Cornwall ; 2230 ac. Pop. 312. BODDINGTON, two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Gloucester; 1550 ac. Pop. 414. 2, Boddington (Lower and Upper), par. Northampton ; 3770 ac. Pop. 675. BODE, a small river, Germany, which rises in the Harz Mountains, and is formed by two streams, called the Cold and the Warm Bode. It afterwards receives the Rapp-Bode and the Lup-Bodc; and, flowing E.N.E., joins the Saale about 7 m. E. Halberstadt. BODEDERN 425 BOGOEODITZK BODEDERN, par., N. Wales, Anglesey. Pop. 1085. BODEGA, a port and settlement, U. States, California, on the Pacific, 40 m. N.W. the embouchure of the San Francisco, lat. 38 40 N. ; Ion. 122 40 W. The settle ment was made by the Russians, in 1812, and was designed to serve as the factory of the Russian American Company, and the entrepot of their peltry. BODEGRAVEN, a vil. Holland, prov. S Holland, 11 m. W.S. W. Leyden. It is well built, on both sides of the Rhine, here crossed by a drawbridge, and has a cruciform Calvinistic church, a small evangelical Lutheran church, and two schools. It is one of the stations between Leyden and Utrecht, the traffic between which makes the village cheerful. BODENHAM, par. Eng. Hereford ; 5530 ac. P. 1017. BODENSEE. See CONSTANCE (LAKE). BODENSTADT, a tn. Austria, Moravia, circle, Prerau, in a valley 20 m. E. Olmiitz. It is a very old place, and contains a castle, two churches, and an hospital. Pop. 1305. BODENSTOWN, par. Irel. Kildare; 2832 ac. P. 459. BODENWERDER, a tn. Germany, on an isolated part nf Hanover, and 30 m. S.S. W. the city of that name, 1. bank, Weser. It has walls with two gates, carries on a good shipping trade, and contains numerous tanneries, a printfield, and cotton mills. Pop. 1486. BODEWRYD, par., N. Wales, Anglesey. Pop. 32. BODFARY, or BODVAKI, par., N.Wales, Denbigh. P. 945. BODFERIN, par., N. Wales, Carnarvon, Pop. 64. BODFUAN, or BODVEAN, par., N. Wales, Carnarvon, Pop. 366. BODHAM, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 1680 ac. Pop. 292. BODIAM, par. Eng. Sussex ; 1480 ac. Pop. 377. BODMIN, a parl. bor. and tn. England, co. Cornwall, near its centre, chiefly on the slops of a hill, 26m. N.W. Plymouth. It has three principal streets, lying E. and W., all straight and well kept ; houses of stone, and those of recent erection commodious and substantial ; well lighted with gas, water abundant. The church, erected about the middle of the 15th century, and situate at the E. end of the town, is the largest in the county, and, in the interior, the handsomest. It con tains, amongst other interesting relics, a curious font, evi dently of high antiquity. There are chapels, besides, for Bryanites, Independents, and Methodists. The schools are, a national school, an endowed British and Foreign school, and an academy. There are also a literary institution and a dis pensary. The town has much improved since 1839, when the whole of the county sessions and assizes began to be held in it, although its population does not seem to be increasing. It has no manufactures. By the municipal act, its govern ment is vested in a mayor, fonr aldermen, and 12 councillors. It returns two members to the House of Commons. Area of par.6310ac. P.(1841),4643;ofbor.5901. (Local Correspond.) BODNEY, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 2390 ac. Pop. 98. BODGE, a tn. Norway, prov. Tromsoe, cap. bail. Nord- land, on the Salten-fiord, at the extremity of Bodb e peninsul the youngest and most unimportant chief town in the country! It has a good harbour ; trade is its only support, and fish its only export. Pop. 309. BODROGH KERESZTUR, a market tn. Upper Hun gary, 3 m. N.N.W. Tokay, r. bank, Bodrog. It has t churches, a synagogue, and large annual cattle-markets. The environs produce rye, and the famous Hegyalla wines, known by the name of Tokay. Pop. 4500. An important river, which is formed by the confluence of the Latoreza, the Ungh, the Laborez, and the Ondava, takes the name of BODROGH in the latter part of its course, before joining the Theiss at Tokay. BODROROG, par., N. Wales, Anglesey. Pop. 358. BOEO (CAPE), [anc. Lilybceum Promontorium\, the most W. point of Sicily, about 1 m. W. Marsala ; lat. 37 48 10" N. ; Ion. 12 25 10" E. The cape, like the rest of the coast in its vicinity, is low, and the shore is foul, a shelving rocky bottom extending more than a mile out, and making the navi gation dangerous. This cape being the point of Sicily nearest to ancient Carthage, early became an important naval station ; and near it was fought a famous naval battle between the Romans and Carthaginians. The decisive victory gained by the former, put an end to the first Punic war. BCEOTI A, a division of ancient Greece, now included in the modern nome or province of Attike and Viotia. See ATTIKE. VOL. I. BOG. See BUG. BOGAN, a river, New S. Wales, Wellington district. Its chief sources are in Harvey s Range, in about lat. 32 50 S. ; on. 148 27 E. It flows N.W., and falls into the Darling, n lat. 30 S. ; Ion. 145 51 E. ; whole course, about 300 m. The uniformity of this river is remarkable, neither the charac ter of its banks nor the breadth of its bed undergoing any perceptible change throughout its entire length. BOGARRA, a tn. Spain, New Castile, prov. of, and 29m. S.S.W. Albacete, near 1. bank, Madera; with irregular and steep streets, a large square, a parish church, townhouse, ion, endowed school, and two public storehouses. Manufac tures : linen, woollen, and silken fabrics ; trade, cattle and grain. Pop. 1927. BOGDOIN DABASSU, a salt lake, Russia, gov. As trakhan, at the foot of the remarkable hill Bogdo-oola, and 14 m. E. Tchernoiarsk. It is about 10 m. long, from N. to S., and 6 m. broad ; produces a fine sparkling white salt, the incrustation of which along the shore makes it look as if covered with snow. The salt, owing to the expense of trans port, has ceased to be an object of traffic. BOGDO-OOLA, a remarkable hill, Russia, gov. Astra khan, not far from the banks of the Aktuba, and about 14 m. E. Tchernoiarsk. It stands isolated in the middle of a vast steppe, and, rising up into a conical peak, to the height of nearly 500 ft., forms a conspicuous object from a great distance. Its base forms a mass of earth and rock of a triangular form, and appears to rest on limestone. Higher up, it consists of sandstone, which, on the N.E. side, rises perpendicularly like a rampart, and is cut into deep clefts, which are the resort of innumerable birds from the steppes. The sandstone is succeeded by layers of clay and sand, alternately white and red, giving it a very strange appearance. The summit con tains fragments of mussel limestone, but is chiefly composed of masses of rock-salt. Bogdo-oola, or Holy Mount, is the name given to the hill by the Kalmuks, who hold it in the highest veneration, and have a tradition that the Dalai Lama once passed a night upon it, and, while dining, let fall a grain of salt, which grew up into the present salt cone. At the foot of the hill is the salt lake Bogdoin Dabassu (which see). BOGENHAUSEN, a vil. Bavaria, r. bank, Isar, in the immediate vicinity, and almost a suburb of Munich. It con tains two palaces and a fine royal observatory. Pop. 196. BOGENSE, a tn. Denmark, N.W. coast, isl. Fiihnen, 17m. N.W. Odense ; with a small harbour, from which there is regular communication to the coast of Jutland. Pop. 1400. BOGIE, a rivulet, Scotland, co. Aberdeen, formed by the confluence of two burns near the manse of Auchindoir, and, after a course of about 1 1 in. through the beautiful strath to which it gives its name, falls into the Doverin a little below Huntly. BOGLIPOOR. See BHAUGULPOKE. BOGMUTTI, BOGMUTTY, or BOGMUTTEE, a river, Hin- doostan, rising in Nepaul, S. W. Khatamandoo, and after a S.E. course of 22 m. and receiving numerous affluents, it falls into the Ganges opposite Monghur ; lat. 25 25 N. ; Ion. 86 28 E. BOGNOR, a small market and maritime tn. England, co. Sussex, 6 m. S.E. Chichester, on an extensive plain, sheltered from the N. winds by the S. Down hills. It is lighted with gas, amply supplied with excellent water, and has three prin cipal, straight, spacious, and well-kept streets, houses built without any attempt at regularity, but generally substantial. There are, besides, two handsome terraces, and numerous elegant villas in the vicinity. Bognor has four churches, the parish church, a chapel of ease, and a dissenting and Wes- leyan places of worship, all of them plain structures ; a national and infant school, and an academy. Jt has become a favourite watering - place. Pop. 3000. (Local Correspondent.) BOGOE, or BAAGOE, an isl. Denmark, between islands Moen and Falster. It is fertile, has a village named Bogb by, and about 1000 inhabitants. BOGODOUKHOF, or BOHODOUKHOF, a tn. Russia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 34 m. N.W. Kharkov, on the Merle. It has some trade in ox-hides, and goat-skins, which are prepared in considerable quantities. Pop. 10,606. BOGORODITZK, a tn. Russia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 32 m. S.E. Tula. It is a mean-looking place, but contains three churches, a fine palace, and has some export of grain, flax, and honey, produced in the district. Pop. 3000. BOGORODSK 420 BOHEMIA BOGORODSK, or BOHORODSK, a tn. Russia, gov. of, and 30 m. E. Moscow, r. bank, Kliasma, and on the road between Moscow and Vladimir. Though it ranks as a town, and is chief place of a circle of the same name, it is in appearance a mere village. The houses are of wood, and have steps to the doors, and covered balconies. Most of them have bath chambers, and at almost every front door, an earthen vessel is hung up called riikamoinik [hand-washer], which is used by the inmates every morning. In the neighbourhood are quarries, with strata of compact quartz, generally yellow, but sometimes brown, and exhibiting marks which have evidently been made by the spines of encrinites. Pop. about 500. BOGOSLOYSK, a mining vil. Russia, Ural Mountains, gov. of, and 185 m. N.E. Perm, near lat. 60 N., 960 ft. above the sea. The copper ores obtained here are found in lime stone, about 2 m. from the village. The mines are the pro perty of the bank of Russia, the workmen convicts. Grain will not ripen, and turnips do not thrive here. BOGOTA [formerly Santa Fede Bogota], a city, S. Ame rica, cap. republic of New Granada, the seat of government, and of an archbishopric ; lat. 41 35 48" N. ; Ion. 74 13 45" W. (L.) It is situated on an elevated plain, 8863 ft. above the sea, at the foot of two lofty mountains, with a delightful though moist climate, resembling a perpetual autumn ; the temperature rarely exceeding 59 Fall. Seen from a distance, it presents a very imposing appearance, rising in the form of an amphitheatre. The streets are narrow, but regular, cross ing each other at right angles, and many of them having a stream of water flowing down the middle. They are all paved, and have footpaths, but are indifferently lighted ; and, there being no common sewers, are often in a filthy state. The principal street, Calle Real, is very handsome, terminating at one end in a square, formed by the palace of the president, the cathedral, the custom-house, &c. There are several other squares besides, of inferior pretensions, though spacious, and all ornamented with fountains. Bogota being subject to earthquakes, the houses are low, and strongly built ; few of them exceeding two stories in height. They are constructed of sun-dried brick, whitewashed, and tiled, without chimneys, stoves only being used. Traffic is carried on in the streets by mules, no vehicles of any kind being employed. The religious structures of the city are disproportionately numerous, there being no fewer than 26 churches, a cathedral, nine monasteries, and three nunneries, to which more than half the houses in the city belong. The churches, though gorgeously adorned interiorly, display more splendour than taste. Bogota contains a university, three colleges, most of the professors in which are monks or priests, a school of chemistry and mineralogy, a Lancasterian school, a national academy, a public library, an observatory, a botanic garden, and a well-attended theatre. The inhabitants, mostly Creoles, are described as a mild, polite, and cheerful people. The women are reputed handsome, with fair and clear complexions, and Spanish physiognomy. The market is well supplied with provisions of every kind, and with fruits and vegetables, the former including straw berries, pine-apples, peaches, &c. Manufactures : soap, cloth, leather, and precious metal ; trade active. Bogota was founded in 1538, and made an archbishopric in 1561 . It was formerly capital of the Spanish vice-royalty of New Granada, and also capital Republic of Colombia. Pop. 30,000 to 40,000. BOGOUSLAV, or BOGUSLAW, a tn. Russia, gov. of, and 70 m. S.S.E. Kiew, cap. dist. of same name, r. bank, Rossa. It contains three churches (two Greek and one United). A great proportion of the inhabitants are Jews. Pop. 6000. BOGOWONTO, a river, isl. Java, rising in prov. Baglen, skirting the W. of Djocjokarta, and falling into the Indian Ocean. BOGUTSCIIAK, a tn. Russia, gov. of, and 138 m. S.E. Yoroneje, on the Bogutscharra, at its junction with the Don. The district is productive of corn and cattle. Pop. 2600. BOGWANGOLA,orBiiAGAVAN GoLA,atn. Hindoostan, presid. and prov. Bengal, 8 m. N.E. Moorshedabad, r. bank, Ganges. It is a busy place, presenting more the appearance of a fair than a town, and is built entirely of bamboos and thatch. The encroachments of the river have caused the town to be removed back several times. Having always plenty of water, it is a busy emporium for inland navigation. BOHAIN, a tn. France, dep. Aisne, 12 m. N.N.E. St. Quentin. Cashmere and light silk shawls are made here, and n the surrounding villages, to a large extent. Musical clocks ire also manufactured. Pop. 3748. BOH ARM, a par. Scotland, cos. Banff and Moray; length, 9 m.; breadth, from 2 to 3 m. Pop. 1261. BOHEMIA (KINGDOM OF), [German, Biihmen or Boheim; French, Boheme}, an administrative division of the Aus- rian empire, in the Germanic Confederation, cap. Prague; bounded, E. by Moravia, N.E. by Prussian Silesia, N.W. by he kingdom of Saxony, W. by Bavaria, and S. by the arch duchy of Austria; and between lat. 48 33 58" and 51 3 39" N. ; and Ion. 12 4 and 16 47 8" E. ; length, E. to W., 210 m. ; Breadth, N. to S., 171 m.; circuit, 814 m.; area, 20,223 sq.m. Bohemia forms an extensive upland valley, with an inclination o the N.W. It is surrounded on all sides by mountains, and belongs almost exclusively to the basin of the Elbe, by which stream nearly all the water that falls in the country is drained off through a single defile on the Saxon frontier, which separ ates the Erzgcbirge from the Lausitz branch of the Riesenge- birge. It is divided into 16 circles (kreise) or provinces, and e metropolitan district of Prague. CIJICLES. Kakonitz Beraun Kaurzim liunzlau Bidschow .... Koi Chi Czaslau Tabor Budweis Prachin Klattau Pilsen Elnbostn Saatz Leitmeritz.... Prague 864 lisa 1111 1042 954 1206 1243 1243 1200 1605 19oO 977 1444 1198 909 1441 CHIEF TOWNS. Schlan (1849) Beraun (1849) Kaurzim (1849) Jung-bunzlau (1846) Bidschow (1849) UtaiggrStz (1845) Chnulim (1846) Czaslau <ls<49) Tabor (1849) Budweis (1846) Pisek (IM J, Kl;m;m (1849) Pilsen (1845) r.hilmu en (1849) Saatz (1M9) Leitmeritz (149; Prague (1846) Populatio 4,180 2,200 2,170 5,074 3,831 8,454 6,107 3,100 4,043 8,730 5,406 6,564. 9,798 2,000 4990 4,300 C8.6J5 Mountains. Four chains of lofty mountains constitute the natural boundaries of the Bohemian basin. N. and N.E., it is separated from Silesia by the Riesengebirge [giant mountains], one of the principal branches of the Sudetic chain. The highest peaks, which are likewise the loftiest of N. or Central Germany, are the Riesenkoppe [giant cap] , or Schneekoppe [snow cap], 5400 ft.; the double-capped Brunnberg, or Born- berg, 5007 ft.; and the Sturmhaube [storm- hood] , 4756 ft. N. and N.W., it is separated from Saxony by the Erzgebirge [ore mountains]; parted N.E. from the Riesengebirge by the defile through which the Elbe leaves Bohemia. The Erzgebirge is not so much a chain of mountains as a huge con tinuous mound, sloping gradually on the Saxon side, but re markably abrupt on the Bohemian. It is well wooded, and ts undulating ridges are broken in some places by consider able depressions. Its highest peaks are the Schwarzwald, or Sonnenwirbel, near Joachimsthal,4124 ft. ; Little Fichtelberg, near Wiesenthal, 4009 ft. ; Schnecberg, 3300 ft. W. and S.W., Bohemia is separated from Bavaria and the archduchy of Austria by the Bohmerwaldgebirge [Bohemian forest moun tains], a range which forms part of the Sylva Hcrcynia of ancient geographers. At its N.W. extremity, it is separated from the Erzgebirge by the depression through which the Eger flows. It is wild, precipitous, and full of deep chasms and ravines ; towards Bavaria it is very steep, but of more gradual inclination on the Bohemian side. Its most elevated points in Bohemia are the Heidelberg, 4623 ft.; Kubani, or Boubin, 4521 ft.; Plakenstein, 4482 ft.; Ossaberg, 4245 ft. S., S.E., and E., the Mahrischesgebirge [Moravian mountains] separate Bohemia from the archduchy of Austria and Moravia. This chain, uniting at its S.W. extremity with the Bohmer waldgebirge, and at its N.E. with the Riesengebirge, com pletes the circle of mountains by which Bohemia is enclosed. The Moravian chain is of gentle acclivity, of the average height of 3281 ft., and separates the basin of the Elbe and Moldau from that of the Danube. Several offsets from these chains, of inferior height, intersect the kingdom. Geology and Minerals. The whole of these mountain- ranges, generally speaking, are of primitive formation, though later formations are found on the N.W., where the Elbe BOHEMIA 427 BOHEMIA quits Bohemia, and on the N.E. near Trautenau. In the centre of the country is an extensive sandstone formation; and that the carboniferous series likewise exists, is evidenced by the presence of coal, of which the quantity produced in 1845 was 285,180 tons, and in 1846, 321,855. Indeed, one of the chief sources of the country s wealth has been its valuable minerals, found chiefly in the Erzgebirge and the spurs of the Fichtelgebirge. Of gold and silver it now yields little ; of the latter, in 1844, the quantity obtained was only 21,243 Ibs. Troy. But it produces cinnabar, tin, bismuth, copper, zinc, nickel, lead, manganese, litharge, sulphur, alum, iron, arsenic, chrome, sulphate of iron and copper, and plumbago ; some of these in considerable quantity. For the years 1842, 1843, and 1844, the total money-value of the produce of the mines was, respectively, 317,172, 322,093, and 368,109. The plumbago, or graphite, is said to be inferior to that of Eng land, though still of good quality. In 1845, the quantity produced was about 400 tons; and in 1846, upwards of 550 tons. Quarries are worked everywhere, and excellent marble, alabaster, quartz, granite, freestone, superior millstones, and grindstones are obtained. The beautiful garnets, famous over Europe, are found chiefly in the circles of Czaslau and Leit- meritz; and in various localities topazes, chalcedonies, ame thysts, jaspers, sapphires, carnelians, rubies, agates, and many other kinds of precious stones, porcelain earth, and potters clay. Rivers, Lakes, and Springs. The streams of Bohemia con verge from all sides towards the Elbe, which rises in the Eies- engebirge, and of which, either directly or indirectly, with ex ception of some inconsiderable tributaries of the Danube and Oder, they all are affluents, and through which their waters are drained off through a mountain defile in the Saxon frontier, where the level of the river is 287 ft. above the sea. The principal affluents of the Elbe in Bohemia are the Moldau, with its tributaries the Berauuand the Egcr; the first rising in the Moravian mountains, and the second in the Fichtel, and the third in the Bohemian forest. These streams afford excellent water-ways for navigation and flotation. Bohemia has no large lakes, but it is said to possess 20,000 ponds, and 160 mineral springs. Some of these last are famed over Europe, of which may be specified the saline chalybeate springs of Franzensbruun, near Eger; those of Marienbad and Giess- hiibel; the warm alkaline aperient springs of Carlsbad and Toplitz (166 and 99 Fah., respectively) ; one at Marienbad, and others at Bilin and Liebwerda ; the bitter, cathartic waters of Sedlitz, Saidschiitz, and Piittna; the sulphurous springs of Toplitz ; besides a host of others of less repute. The warm spring to which Carlsbad owes its celebrity, seems to have been known in the seventh century. 200,000 gal lons of these mineral waters are exported annually. Climate. The climate is variable, but in general healthy; and warmer in the low districts, the central parts, and towards the N., than in the S. The mean annual temperature at Prague, is 48 43 Fah.; winter, 32 31 ; spring, 47; summer, 69 5tf ; autumn, 50 22 . In the Bb hmerwald, the snow is often found 12 ft. deep, and lies till the middle of April ; in some of the other ranges it remains throughout the whole year. The prevailing winds are W., N.W., and S.W., bring ing drought in winter, and rain in summer ; the annual fall of rain is about equal to that of the midland counties of England. Vegetation, Agriculture, c. Excepting in the lofty moun tain-ranges, the soil of Bohemia is generally fertile, more especially in the N. and N.E., and in the valleys of the Eger and the Elbe. The whole amount of arable land is estimated at 12,259,362 ac., of which 6,101,649 ac., or nearly one-half, is under the plough, the remainder being laid out in orchards, vineyards, pastures, &c. The principal crops raised are rye and oats, about equal in quantity ; barley and wheat, about half the two former. Potatoes and turnips are grown exten sively, and considerable quantities of legumes, poppies, rape and clover seeds, flax, and hemp. Of the hops, which are good, a large portion is sent to Bavaria. Fruit is abundant on the lower grounds ; and in the warmer localities, on the banks of the Elbe, the vine ripens, and yields about 250,000 gallons of wine. Besides the portion under cultivation, 3,756,290 ac. are under wood, yielding annually 3,638,000 cubic fathoms of timber, value 1,916,811. The horses are superior, though of small size, being handsome and vigorous, especially in the circles of Saatz, Leitmeritz, and Chrudim. The horned cattle are small, and ill formed, owing, in part, to the scarcity of fodder ; and the supply for home demand is so inadequate, that it is found necessary to import large numbers from Poland and Moldavia. The breed of sheep is now greatly improved, and the wool excellent. Comparing the stock of cattle in 1834 with the stock in 1846, as follows, it will be found that cattle-rearing has been on the increase: 183t. 1846. Horses 144,882 158,319 Horned cattle 1,011,559 1,059,092 Sheep and goats 1,357,566 1,409,856 The rearing of poultry and bees is extensively prosecuted ; but attempts to introduce the silkworm have not been suc cessful. On the whole, agriculture has made considerable progress in Bohemia of late years; but still, the utmost capabilities of the soil are not, and cannot be fully developed under a system which, as there, excludes the cultivator from participation in its produce. In Bohemia there are no tenants, properly speaking, and, therefore, no class corresponding to our farmers ; the owners of estates keep them in their own hands, and employ labourers to perform the necessary work. Hence arise two evils of great magnitude the land is not parcelled out into manageable farms, but retained, in immense tracts, in the hands of the landlord ; and the immediate culti vator of the soil, receiving no share of the produce, takes no interest in its amount. Animals. Game is still abundant; and hunting is a favourite amusement, though, from the progress of agricul ture, gradually on the decrease; still, extensive preserves exist, containing large numbers of the wild boars for which Bohemia is noted. Polecats, martens, foxes, and squirrels are met with, but wolves and bears have been nearly exter minated. Pike, carp, and trout are plentiful in the rivers and ponds ; and in the Moldau and some other streams, large numbers of pearl mussels are found. Manufactures. For manufacturing skill and activity, Bo hemia has long ranked as one of the most important provinces of the Austrian empire. In 1844 there were produced 1 ,500,000 pieces of linen, of 30 ells each ; value, 1 ,050,000. There are 83 cotton-spinning factories in the kingdom, with 395,000 fine spindles, producing about 3,500,000 pieces, and employ ing about 150,000 persons. Much cotton yarn, of the inferior numbers, is spun by machinery, but the higher numbers are imported from the archduchy of Austria, and from Britain. Calico-printing has increased of late, and bleachfields are numerous. The whole quantity of wool produced in Bohemia, is estimated at 106,960 ewt. ; and the cloth made, at about 186,000 pieces value, 1,082,000. Tapes, ribbons, and lace are also manufactured ; and in Prague, silk to a small extent. The manufacture of potash employs nearly 6000 people, and leather 4000. In 1845, there were 10 manu factories of sugar from potatoes, and 25 from beet-root ; but the quantity produced was too small to supply the home con sumption. Besides these, there are five sugar refineries. There are likewise 917 breweries, and 1228 brandy distil leries, mostly on a very small scale, producing 4,052,852 imperial gallons of spirits distilled from various articles, such as rye, potatoes, wine-lees, plums, cherries, &c. ; but the national beverage is beer made from barley. The total amount of cast-iron manufactured in Bohemia, in nails, wire, cutlery, locks, &c., may be estimated at 17,500 tons per annum, employing about 6000 persons ; and the value of the whole ironware produced, 170,000. Gold, silver, and pewter are manufactured at Elnbogen, Budweis, Koniggratz, and Prague, at the last of which, and at Carlsbad, good needles are made. Other manufactures are white lead and brass, to a small ex tent; spoons, buckles, buttons, porcelain, earthenware, and paper, the last extensively. Glass has been a staple article of Bohemian manufacture since the 13th century, although it is not supposed to be now so flourishing as it was formerly. There are in the kingdom 67 glassworks, properly so called, besides mirror factories, and glass-cutting works, and factories of glass pearls, employing in all about 30,000 persons. It has been estimated that about one-third of the entire popula tion of the kingdom is employed in the various manufactures. Eoads, &c. By means of the two navigable rivers, the Elbe and the Moldau, and the numerous excellent roads throughout the country, the business of Bohemia is greatly BOHEMIA BOHOL furthered. The first railway completed in Germany was that from Budweis in Bohemia, to Linz in the archduchy of Aus tria, and subsequently prolonged to Gmiinden. From the capital there is direct railway communication with Vienna, through Olmiitz, and also to the N.W. with Dresden and W. Germany, excepting 18 m. between Leitmcritz and Tetschen, gtill (1851) incomplete. Besides these there is a short line W. to Lana. People. The greater proportion of the inhabitants of Bo hemia are Czeches or Tscheches, of Sclavonian descent, and re markable for bravery, general intelligence, strength of memory, and a passionate love of music. The second, in point of numbers, are 1h. Germans, about 900,000, who dwell chiefly at Prague, and in the districts bordering on Saxony, Prussia, and Bavaria. They constitute the most industrious part of the population, and in mercantile and mechanical pursuits excel the Sclavonians. The Jews seem to have settled in the country at a very remote period ; for inscriptions, dis covered on several tombstones, indicate their presence as early as the first century of the Christian era. They number about 70,000, and apply themselves principally to trading in corn, cattle, leather, and wool, and to banking or exchange business. Most of the breweries, distilleries, and potash factories are in their hands. The average ratio of deaths to the whole population is 1 in 33, including the capital ; iu the low country it is said to be 1 in 39. Religion. The R. Catholic is the prevailing creed, and the state religion of the Bohemians; other Christian denomi- I nations are tolerated. The secular clergy are governed by the metropolitan Archbishop of Prague, three bishops at Leitmeritz, Koniggratz, and Budweis, one titular bishop, and 12 prelates. The total number of parishes is 1765. The regular clergy, though much reduced by the reforms of Joseph II., still possess 75 monasteries or communities, and six nunneries. Protestants are almost exclusively confined to the N.E. districts, and have 53 parishes. The Jews have a head rabbi at Prague, and several district rabbis. Educational Establishments. Bohemia is abundantly sup plied with educational establishments, comprehending a uni versity at Prague, with 53 professors, 14 assistants, and more than 2000 students ; a model normal seminary, 3493 schools, of which 48 are chief or grammar, 3371 R. Catholic, 74 Pro testant, and 19 Jewish schools; a polytechnic institute, 26 gymnasia, with about 6000 scholars, for the most part kept by monks, especially Piarists ; three diocesan philosophical schools, three diocesan seminaries of theology, a Jewish college, an academy of painting, a conservatory of music, and several military academies. The school attendance is, male one to five, and female one to six, of the population ; while in the whole Austrian empire, the proportion is only, male one to nine, female one to 12. The total sum expended on schools, chiefly by provincial districts and local and municipal govern ments, is about 26,000. Charitable, Institutions, &c. There is no legal provision for the poor in Bohemia, consequently the number of street beggars is almost incredible. There are, however, numerous benevolent institutions at Prague, and in the chief towns of the kingdom, for the relief of the sick and destitute, such as foundling and lying-in hospitals, dispensaries, infirmaries, houses of refuge, &c., for widows and orphans ; asylums for the blind, the insane, the deaf and dumb, &c. Languages. The use of the vernacular tongue, a dialect of the Sclavonian, is confined in a great measure to the lower and middle classes. A knowledge of Bohemian is not deemed necessary in the service of Government. Among the edu cated classes, German is generally spoken ; and in the schools, German alone is taught, and has been so since the time of Maria Theresa, who enjoined its use in all educational esta blishments. Of late years, however, there has been a great national movement amongst the Bohemians, directed chiefly to the cultivation of their language and literature. This movement is discouraged, but not openly opposed by the Austrian Government. Government, &c. Bohemia, with the title of Kingdom, forms a provincial government of the Austrian empire, with certain special political rights. The Emperor of Austria is styled King of Bohemia, and is crowned at Prague. The crown is hereditary in the Imperial family, both males and females ; but, in case of extinction of the reigning dynasty, the right to elect a king appertains to the Estates, consisting of the clergy, the high nobility, the knights, and the burgesses. The civil administration is managed by a central gubrrnium at Prague, subordinate to the higher powers at Vienna. Military affairs are under the direction of the Couimander- eneral. Ifistort/. Bohemia derives its name from the Boii, a Celtic people, who settled in the country about 600 years B.C., and who were expelled, in the time of Augustus, by the Marcc- anni. About the middle of the sixth century, a numerous army of Czeches entered the country, and subdued it. The 5rst Duke known to us by name is Przemislas, a peasant, whom the Princess Libussa married in A.D. 632, and raised to the throne. In 1061, the Emperor Henry IV. gave the royal title to the Dukes of Bohemia. By the extinction of the male line, the crown came to the House of Luxembourg, in 1310, when Charles IV. united Bohemia with the German empire. After many vicissitudes, Bohemia fell to the House of Austria, in the person of Ferdinand the Archduke, brother of Charles V., and brother-in-law of Louis II., King of Hun gary and Bohemia, who was killed in 1526, in a battle with the Turks, near Mohacz. At this period, Bohemia possessed a comparatively free constitution, and the most of its inhabit ants were Protestant. In consequence of the encroachments the succeeding emperors on the religious liberties of the Protestants, serious disturbances arose, which threatened the House of Austria with the loss of the kingdom. In 1619, the people offered the crown to Frederick V., Elector-palatine, the exclusion of Ferdinand II. But the battle of the White Mountain, fought in November 1620, and in which Frederick was totally defeated, put an end to the rising hopes of the Protestants, and proved the source of innumerable calamities to the Bohemians, who were subjected by their conquerors, the Austrians, to a persecution scarcely paralleled n history. The Protestant religion, held by three-fourths of the people, became well nigh extinct ; the free constitution as totally subverted, and Bohemia converted into an absolute and hereditary monarchy, and the R. Catholic faith established, to the exclusion of all others. From this time the kingdom continually declined. More than 30,000 families, including many of the nobility, all the Protestant ministers and teachers, numerous artists, mechanics, &c., were forcibly driven into exile, or had their estates and property confiscated. When Frederick II. died, in 1637, out of 3,000,000 inhabitants which Bohemia contained in 1617, there remained only 780,000. On the death of Charles VI. (1740), Charles Albert, Elector of Bavaria, claimed the crown, but Maria Theresa succeeded, after an arduous struggle, in securing possession of the kingdom. She was succeeded by her son, Joseph II., n 1780; and from this time downwards, a more liberal and enlightened system of administration has been pursued, under which Bohemia is advancing in prosperity as steadily as any other portion of the Austrian empire. Pop. (1843), 4,249, 669, of which 1,991,667 are males, and 2,258,002 females, being 210-14 to the sq. mile. (Raffelsperger s Lex. alter Osterreich; Staaten; Osterreich Nat. Encyclopadie; Statistichcs Jahrbuch; Parliamentary Papers.) BOHILLANE, par. Irel. Cork ; 1097 ac. Pop. 572. BOHMERWALD [forest of Bohemia], a wooded moun tain-range of considerable extent, running nearly N.W. and S.E., and separating Bohemia from Bavaria and the arch duchy of Austria. W.N.W. it joins the Erzgebirge [ore mountains], and S.S.E. the Mahrischesgebirge [Moravian mountains]. Length, about 120 m. ; mean breadth, about 25 m. In its whole length it is traversed only by six roads, along one of which, at Freistadt, the railway from Budweis to Linz passses. It is the Sylva gabreta, forming part of the Hercynian forest of the Romans. This chain is mainly con stituted of granite, overlaid by gneiss, schist, and calcareous deposits. Towards the N. and N.W., the hills are frequently basaltic, isolated, and almost of a conical shape. The prin cipal peaks are Mounts Arber, 4848 ft. ; and Rachel, 4743 ft., in Bavaria; and Heidelberg, 4623 ft.; and Kubaiii, 4521 ft., in Bohemia. BOHOE, par. Irel. Fermanagh; 15,058 ac. Pop. 2824. BOHOL, one of the Philippine Islands, dependent on Zebu, and lying between that island and Leyto, and N. of Mindanao; lat. (S.E. point) 9 48 N.; Ion. 124 26 E. (K.) ; about 52 in. long by 34 broad. It is watered by several BOHOLA 429 BOKHARA rivers, one of which comes from a lake in the centre of the island. Rice is grown, and cattle reared. The inhabitants make cocoa-nut oil, cultivate and weave cotton, producing strong cloth ; and weave also silk. BOHOLA, par. Irel. Mayo ; 8674 ac. Pop. 4301. BOHORODCZAN, a market tn. Austria, Galicia, circle, of, and 10 m. S.S.W. Stanislau, on the Bistrica. It contains a Dominican cloister, and a Greek church. Pop. 1920. BOI-ABAD, or AVAD, a tn. Turkey in Asia, pash. Ana tolia, r. bank, Kara-su, an affluent of the Kizil-lrmak, 96 m. N.N.W. Amasia; lat. 41 28 N.; Ion. 34 45 E. It con sists of ahout 300 scattered houses, contains three khans, and, with its luxuriant gardens, full of fine fruit-trees, and overrun by vines, presents a pleasing appearance. There is here a castle, attributed by the natives to the Genoese, but bearing no inscriptions ; it was long the seat of an independent chieftain. Pop. 1800. BOIPEBA-VELHA, a tn. Brazil, prov. of, and 65 m. S.W. Bahia, on the island of same name. It has a church, and primary school ; but is a poor little place, exporting to Bahia piassava, rice, and bark for tanning. BOIS (LEs), [German, Rudisholz], avil. Switzerland, can. of, and 26 m. W.N.W. Bern; 3421 ft. above the sea level, on the Jura Mountains. It has an old church, and a school. Watch-making is carried on to some extent ; and two well frequented cattle-markets are held. Pop. 994. BOIS BLANC, or WHITE WOOD, an isl., U. States, Michigan, in Lake Huron ; lat. 45 45 N. ; Ion. 84 55 W. It is 11 m. long by 3 broad, and is generally fertile, though the under portion of the soil is sandy. It has a lighthouse on the E. end. BOIS-DE-LESSINES, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. Hainaut; 28 m. N.E. Tournai ; with some linen manufactures. Pop. 1752. BOIS-LE DUG. See HERTOGENBOSCII. BOIZENBURGr, a tn. Mecklenburg -Schwerin, circle, Wendisch, on the Elbe, 32 m. S.W. Schwerin. It has walls, with two gates; and is a handsome, well-built, stirring place, containing numerous manufactures ; among others leather, glue, vinegar, soap, and tobacco ; and carrying on a consider able shipping trade, for which its situation on the Elbe gives it great advantages. The vessels belonging to the town amount to 30. Pop. 3184. BOJADOR (CAPE), a promontory, W. coast, Africa; lat. 26 7 10" N.; Ion. 14 29 W. (R.) ; one of the projecting points of the Great Desert of the Sahara, and forming the W. extremity of a rocky ridge, called the Jebel-khal or Black Mountains. The coast N. of this cape is extremely danger ous, being shallow to a great distance out, and constantly enveloped in a haze. It has been, in consequence, the scene of many melancholy disasters. Cape Bojador was long the limit of navigation towards the S., and was first passed by the Portuguese in 1433. BOJANA, a river, Turkey in Europe, prov. Albania, pash. Scutari. It issues from Lake Scutari, near the town of that name, and after a winding course of from 20 to 25 in., falls into the Adriatic in lat. 40 5 N. ; Ion. 19 21 E. BOJANO [anc. Bavianum], a tn. Naples, prov. Sannio, 10 m. S.W. Campobasso; on the Biferno, in a deep defile, at the foot of Mount Matese. It is the seat of a bishop, and has a cathedral, several churches and convents, a seminary, and an hospital. Two fairs are held annually. Pop. 3117. BOJANOWO, a tn. Prussia, prov. and gov. Possen, 9 m. N.W. Rawiez. It is divided into the old and new towns. Most of the houses are of wood. It has some manufactories of coarse cloth, linen, leather, and earthenware. Pop. 2450. BOKA, a vil. Hungary, circle, this side the Theiss, co. Torontal ; on the Temes, between Kanak and Szetsany, 33 m. S.S.W. Temeswar. Pop. 2599. BOKHARA, or UZBEKISTAN [Uzbek -land], a kingdom, Independent Tartary, Central Asia, cap. same name. Its geographical limits have not been precisely ascertained, hardly any two authorities agreeing exactly as to the space it occu pies ; but it may be said to lie between lat. 36 and 42 or 45 N., and Ion. 61 or 63 and 67 or 70 E., for all these different boundaries have been assigned to it. Khanikoff, a Russian traveller, who was there in 1842, says that the Emir s sway extended over the space of country comprised between lat. 37 and 43 N., and Ion. 61 50 to 69 50 E. Arrow- smith s map places it between lat. 36 and 41 20 7 N., and Ion. 62 25 and 70 10 E. It is bounded, N. by the Kirghis steppe and the khanate of Khokand, W. by Khiva, S. by Afghanistan, and E. by Hissar and the khanate of Khoondooz. Burnes makes the Sea of Aral, and the river Sir or Jaxartes the N. boundary, but the former, at all events, is now known to belong to Khiva. Khanikoff makes the Amou or Jihoon the S. boundary, though Balkh and Andkoo are understood to be at least tributary to the Khan of Bokhara. Area estimated at 228,808 sq. m. According to native authorities, the poli tical divisions are Karakool, Bokhara, and seven districts around, Kermina, Meeankal or Kutta Koorghan, Samarcand, with five districts, and Juzzak, all in the valley of Samarcand ; besides these, Kurshee, Lubiab or banks of the Oxus, and Balkh, and the provinces S. of that river. It is mountainous, and elevated towards the E., where it includes the valleys forming the W. slopes of the great Asiatic plateau, some of the summits of which Burnes estimated at 18,000 ft. high, being enveloped in snow in June; and S. it leans on the Hindoo Koosh and N. escarpment of the Persian plateau. All the rest of the country is uniformly low and flat, belonging, in its characteristics, to the dry steppes and sandy wastes of the Caspian and Aral Seas. Bokhara forms part of the plain of Toorkistan, which has an elevation of 2000 ft. It slopes N.W. towards the Sea of Aral, to whose basin it exclusively belongs. It is very imperfectly watered, possessing only two streams of any consequence, the Amou, Jihoon, or Oxus, traversing the country S.E. to N.W., and receiving, accord ing to some, as affluents, the Balkh or Adirsiah on the left, and the Zourkab on the right ; though, according to others, both these streams are absorbed in the sand before reaching the Oxus. The other principal stream is the Samarcand, Zer- afshan or Zurufshan, which traverses the country E. to W., passing the cities of Samarcand and Bokhara, and falling into Lake Dengis, a short distance N. of the Oxus. Besides these, there are some other smaller streams, as the Kurshee or Karchi, described by Burnes as a mere rivulet. Along the banks of these rivers lie the only cultivable lands in the country, not reaching to more than a tenth of the entire area. Along the stream Samarcand is the valley of the same name, so vaunted for its beauty by the Arabian conquerors, that it was called an earthly paradise. Though certainly beautiful, its attractions are doubtless heightened by comparison with the sandy wastes which on every side surround it. The ter ritory on the banks of the Oxus is likewise greatly favoured by nature. N. of the Oxus, and from the mountains W. to Bo khara, the country is occupied by a succession of low rounded ridges of oolite, limestone, and gravel, covered with a scanty verdure ; between these ridges are hardened plains of argilla ceous clay, forming excellent natural roads. On these occur sand-hills of no great extent, but sufficient to absorb the rivulets flowing towards the Oxus. W. the city of Bokhara, and S. the Oxus, however, the country is covered with these hills or rather mounds of loose sand, of a horse-shoe shape, about 15 to 20 ft. in height, resting on a firm soil, having been accumulated by the winds, and so numerous that little space is left for cultivation. In the valleys formed by these sand - hills, deposits of salt and saline rivulets frequently occur. The only lake of importance is Dengis or Karakool, about 50 m. S.S.W. the city of Bokhara. It is deep, brackish, and about 10 m. long. Mineralogy. Gold, in considerable quantities, is found among the sands of the Oxus ; but there are no mines of that metal in the kingdom, neither are there any of silver, copper, or iron, all these being imported from Russia. Sal-ammoniac is found in its native state, and salt deposits are numerous. Climate. The climate of Bokhara is salubrious and pleasant ; it is dry, and in winter very cold, the Oxus being frequently frozen over so strongly, that travellers pass across it on the ice. In summer, the heat seldom rises above 90, except in the desert, where, in June, it reaches 100. In Balkh, also, the heat is oppressive, and the climate unhealthy. The sky is always clear, and of a bright and beautiful azure. The country, however, is subject to violent tornadoes, which usu ally follow excessive heat. In winter, snow lies for three months on the ground at and around the city of Bokhara, and the spring rains are often very heavy. Vegetable Products. The tree most abundant in Bokhara is the poplar, which is used for house-building. The cotton BOKHARA 430 BOKHARA plant is cultivated, and hemp is likewise grown ; but the only use to which the latter is turned by the natives, is the ex tracting oil from the seeds, and also an intoxicating drug called bang ; the stalks of the plant are given to cattle. The principal grain crops are rice, wheat, barley, Indian corn, and sesarnum. The fruits of Bokhara are celebrated, especially the melon, which here attains an excellence known nowhere else. The other fruits are the peach, plum, apricot, cherry, sour cherry, apple, pear, quince, walnut, fig, pomegranate, mulberry, grape, pumpkin, and cucumber. The raisins of Bokhara are large, and of delicious flavour, but the wines are very indifferent. Neither indigo nor sugar-cane grow here ; but an excellent substitute for the latter is found in an article called turunjuleen, a saccharine gum which exudes from the camel s thorn. Tliis singular and valuable plant abounds in the vicinity of Kurshee and Samarcand, to which localities it is almost wholly confined, not being found W. the city of Bokhara. Tobacco, of a superior quality, is grown at Kur shee, and wild rhubarb abounds in many places. Vegetables are in great plenty turnips, carrots, onions, radishes, and beet-root. Animals. The only beasts of prey in Bokhara are leopards, and a very small species of tiger ; the other wild animals are deer, antelopes, foxes, wolves, jackals, and bears ; there are also wild hogs and wild asses. Bats, tortoises, and lizards are found in the deserts. Scorpions are common, but com paratively harmless. Eagles and hawks are met with, and plover, wild pigeon, and water-fowl abound ; but there are no singing-birds, and game of all kinds is scarce. There being few rivers or lakes, fish is not abundant ; those taken in the Oxus are similar to what are found in other Asiatic rivers, with the exception of an enormous kind of dog-fish called lukha, which has no scales, and sometimes attains the weight of 600 Ibs. English. In the Lake Dengis or Karakool, fish of good quality and flavour are caught. There are no alligators in the Oxus, nor any other animals to be dreaded. Locusts sometimes infest the country, but few other noxious insects are met with. Silkworms are reared in great numbers in all parts of the kingdom where there is water, especially on the banks of the Oxus, the silk produced there being con sidered the most valuable, both from the softness and fineness of the thread. The guinea-worm, called by the natives risJitu, which burrows in the flesh of the human body, and causes great pain and annoyance, is one of the greatest evils with which Bokhara is afflicted ; it is calculated that one-fourth of the entire population are annually attacked by this animal. The natives are singularly dexterous in the extraction of the worm, which they effect with needles. Of the domestic animals the sheep and goat are the most important, the former furnishing valuable skins, and the other a wool second only to that of Cashmere. Both feed on furze and dry grass, and their flesh is sweet and well flavoured. The sheep have large tails, sometimes weighing so much as 15 Ibs. ; those that pro duce the black, curly fleece, in such demand in Persia for caps, are peculiar to Karakool ; and it is said the animal will thrive nowhere else, and that, when removed to any other place, the fleece becomes deteriorated. The skins having the smallest curls are most prized ; of these about 200,000 are annually exported. The goats of Bokhara are about the common size, and of a dark colour ; their wool is gray, and lies next the skin. The camels of Bokhara, of the Bactrian or two-hump kind, are greatly superior in appearance to those of India, being covered with a sleek coat of hair, whereas the latter are almost naked, and often disfigured by eruptions. The ass of this country is large and strong, and is much used both for saddle and burden. The horned cattle are of good size, but greatly inferior to those of England. Beef is eaten by the lower orders only, mutton being always preferred. Manufactures and Commerce. There are no manufactures in Bokhara of any extent ; the most considerable are those of silk and cotton, and of a kind of cloth in which both are com bined. Articles of steel, gold, and silver are also made, and of good quality, such as sabres, knives, rings, and other jewellery. The art of dyeing is well understood, but in tan ning the Bokharians are inferior to the Russians, and their leather generally bad, with exception of morocco. The prin cipal articles of export to foreign countries are cotton, raw and manufactured, the latter consisting of coarse chintzes and cotton thread ; silk, sent chiefly to India and Cabool ; lamb skins, of which, as already stated, 200,000 are annually ex ported. In former years, the greater part of the trade of Bokhara in European goods was carried on through Russia ; it is now conducted chiefly through India and Cabool. The chief articles of import from India are muslins, brocades, white cloth for turbans, sugar, and shawls; those from Russia are white cloth, muslin, chintzes, broad cloth, velvet, nankeen, gold thread, hardware, metals, cutlery, jewellery, leather, paper, &c., the greater part of British manufacture, as are also the greater part of the goods imported from India, the cloths of England being greatly preferred to those of any other country. Owing, principally, to the want of good roads and other means of communication, the internal trade of Bokhara is very limited, although large quantities of merchandise are brought yearly to the city, no less than from 12,000 to 15,000 camel loads, but this is owing to the circumstance of its being the central point of all the commercial routes between E. and W. Asia, and being on this account made a depot for goods intended ultimately for remote destinations. The trade with Russia is carried on by caravans, from 5000 to 6000 camels being yearly employed in the transport of merchandise from Bokhara to that country, the value of which amounts to be tween 600,000 and 800,000, the returns to about 450,000, having increased nearly threefold within the last 20 years. The trade with Cabool, Herat, and Cashmere employs from 3000 to 3500 camels; the chief article imported from Cabool is indigo, most of which is used in Bokhara, the rest being sent to Russia. Government. The Government of Bokhara is a monarchy, the Emir, or sovereign, having all but absolute power, in cluding the right of life and death, and being limited only by the Mussulman canonical law. The Emir appoints chiefs, or governors, to the distant towns, giving them the fullest powers, excepting life and death, which he reserves in his own hands. The number of troops of all arms which the Emir can raise, is conjectured by Khanikoff to be about 40,000 men, of which, the same authority says, not more than a third is completely armed, the rest consisting merely of the followers of the army, or such as are indifferently equipped. During Khanikoff s stay at Bokhara, there were only 1000 regular infantry who had proper fire-arms. The Emir s prime minister, and highest state officer, is the Kush-beghi, or Vizier, who is keeper of the seals, and general receiver and disburser of the national revenues. The public revenue has been estimated at about 400,000, derived chiefly from land, but in part also from farm produce, fruits, and skins. The present Emir (1847), is Nasr-Ullah Bahadur Khan Melik-el-Mumcnin, second son of Emir Seid, who died in 1826. Races of Men. Bokhara is at present inhabited by no fewer than 11 different nations, the Uzbecks, Tadjicks, Toork- mans, Arabs, Persians, Mongols or Kalmuks, Kirghis, Kara- Kalpaks, Jews, Afghans, Lesghis, and Gipsies. The most numerous by far are the Uzbecks, who were the last con querors of the country. Most of them lead a wandering life, while a few apply themselves to the arts of peace, inhabiting the large towns and cities. The Tadjicks consider themselves the aborigines of the country; they resemble Europeans in personal appearance, and are remarkably industrious. The Toorkmans, Kirghis, and Kara-Kalpaks are all of Turkish descent ; the former inhabit the desert W. of the Oxus, the last are few in number, and live N. of the Zar-afshan, and in the vicinity of Kurshee. The other nations settled in Bo khara at different periods, and have no particularly distinctive character. Jteligion, Education, Habits, Dress, &c. The people of Bokhara are all Soonite Mahometans, and no other religion may be publicly professed. There are daily public prayers in the capital, during which time there is a cessation of all business. Bokhara was long celebrated as a seat of learning, but although there are still many educational establishments, both in the capital and throughout the country, the greater portion of the population remain wholly uninstructed. The diet of the people, generally, is simple, consisting chiefly of tea, rice, vegetables, mutton, cheese, and milk. Knives and forks are not used, all kinds of food being raised to the mouth with the fingers. Large white trowsers, close short drawers, and caps of red cloth, form the principal articles of dress of the Bokharians. The dress of the women is very nearly similar to that of the men, with the addition of highly decor- BOKHARA 431 BOLAN PASS ated boots, and black veils. Both sexes are in the habit of staining their nails with henna. History. Bokhara, in part, corresponds to the Bactria of the ancients. After the destruction of the Greek Bactrian empire, it formed a powerful kingdom, conquered in 705 by the Arabs. In 1232, it fell into the hands of Genghis Khan, whose descendants were dispossessed by Timor in 1303. In 1505, the Uzbecks became masters of the country and the throne. Bokhara contains 19 towns of some note, including the capital. The pop. has been variously estimated, by Myen- dorff at 2,478,000, by Khanikoff at 2,000,000, and byBurnes at 1,500,000. (Burnes s Travels in Bokliara ; Khanikoff s Bokhara, its Emirs and its People; <&c.) BOKHARA [the treasury of sciences], the cap. of the kingdom or khanate of Bokhara ; lat. 39 48 N. ; Ion. 64 26 E. It is situated in a flat country, and is embosomed in trees ; is surrounded by a mud wall, with battlements; has 11 gates, PLAN OF BOKHARA. From Eve I E. ise von Orenburg I and is between 8 and 9 m. in circumference. The streets are extremely narrow, and the houses small ; of the former, there are, altogether, about 360, few of which are paved, and those that are, are so very ill kept, that the large rough project ing stones rather impede than facilitate locomotion. The principal public edifices are the Emir s palace, which stands on an elevated piece of ground, of about 300 ft. high, in the centre of the city ; it is surrounded by a brick wall of 70 ft. in height. Within this area, besides the palace of the Emir, is the residence of the Vizier, his public courts of audi ence, and the dwellings of several other grandees, with the houses of their numerous retinues, and three mosques. There are, altogether, 360 mosques in the city, there being thus one for every street ; but eight only of any note. The largest occupies a square of 300 ft., and is enamelled with tiles of azure blue ; attached to this mosque is a tower of 2 1 ft. high, from which criminals are thrown. Of colleges, there are 103 ; none of them, however, have any architectural pretensions; but a few have their fronts ornamented with coloured tiles. The number of students, in 1840, amounted to about 10,000. The city contains 38 caravansaries, 24 of stone and 14 of wood; and 16 principal baths. The private dwellings, all built of sun-dried bricks, and flat roofed, gen erally enclose several four-cornered courts ; the inner walls are sometimes plastered, but the windows are without glass, and the houses of the poorer classes often extremely filthy. Those, however, of the wealthy are frequently tastefully adorned with comfortable and elegant apartments. The city is intersected by a canal, shaded by mulberry-trees ; but in summer, it is often dried up for months, when water becomes extremely scarce, and what is to be had is so exceedingly bad, that it gives rise, it is said, to the terrible disease occa sioned by the guinea- worm, as mentioned in the preceding article. The bazaars are numerous, there being places of this kind appropriated to each of various different articles of provision, fruits, clothing, drugs, hardware, &c. Khanikoff, in this way, enumerates 24 ; three of which are for kid boots. The streets of Bokhara, during the day, are densely crowded, and the din of the busy population perfectly stunning ; im mense quantities of fruit are exposed for sale, and the demand for it incessant. Tea is in universal favour with the Bokha- rians, and is drunk at all times of the day, and in all manner of ways ; it is sold prepared, in the market-places, in small bowls, and is largely consumed. Grape jelly or syrup, mixed up with chopped ice, and called, in Eastern phrase, the delight of life, is another much-prized luxury of Bokhara, which is always to be had on the streets during the warm weather. With regard to the population of Bokhara, ac counts differ widely. Burnes, in 1835, states it 150,000 ; while Khanikoff, in 1843, estimates it at 60,000 to 70,000. BOKOL, a large vil. Senegambia, near the Senegal river ; lat. 16 24 N. ; Ion. 15 24 W. ; governed by a marabout. It has some trade ; and the people are cultivators and cayman hunters. BOLABOLA. See BOUABORA. BOLAM, par. Eng. Northumberland ; 8260 ac. P. 603. BOLAN PASS, a formidable defile in the lofty range of mountains that traverse the N.E. corner of Beloochistan, prov. Sarawan; about lat. 29 30 N.; Ion. 67 40 E. The elevation of the crest of the pass is 5793 ft. above the sea ; its total length, between 54 and 55 m. ; average ascent, 90 ft. in the mile. The minutest description, says Lieut. Conolly, could hardly convey a just idea of its strength ; it is a defile which a regiment of brave men could defend against an army. The eminences bounding the pass, however, are not generally of very great elevation ; but there are points where it is edged by perpendicular cliffs of 500 to 600 ft. in height, and ap proaching so near as to leave but a narrow lane between, tremendous in its dejjth, and overshadowed by huge walls of living rock, which seem almost to close over the gloomy path below. The air, in the lower parts, is, in summer, oppres sively hot, and so excessively unhealthy, that scarcely any persons then venture through it, except messengers on urgent business. It is traversed by a small river called the Bolan, wliich, BOLANOS 432 BOLIVIA when there is rain in the higher parts of the mountain, comes down in an almost perpendicular volume, without warning, and sweeps all before it. The pass is infested by Belooches, a lawless, treacherous, sanguinary race, who rob and murder all travellers whom they think they can overpower. In 1839, the Bengal column, with its accompanying artillery, marched through this pass, on their way to Cabool, taking six days to accomplish it. BOLANOS, a tn. Mexico, Jalisco, 65 m. N.N.W. Gua dalajara ; chiefly remarkable on account of the rich silver mines in its neighbourhood. BOLAS (MAGNA and MEESON), par. Eng. Salop ; 2650 ac. Pop. 288. BOLBEC, a tn. France, dep. Seine Inferieure, 17 m. E.N.E. Le Havre ; agreeably situated on the side of a hill, washed by the Bolbec, and at the junction of four valleys. It is well built, partly of brick, partly of stone ; the streets are wide and straight, and have a lively appearance. On July 14, 1765, a fire occurred in the town, which destroyed 868 houses, and reduced 3000 persons to destitution. The modern town, in consequence of the conflagration, was built without that admixture of wood so common in the houses of Normandy. It is a thriving and industrious place, and well situated for commerce. It carries on the manufacture of cotton goods to a large extent, receiving the raw cotton from Le Havre, coals from Fecamp and Ilarfleur, and disposing of the products at Eouen. Its printed cottons and handker chiefs have long been held in high estimation. Besides these, it produces linen and woollen stuffs, lace, cotton, velvet, and thread ; and has several dyeworks and tanneries, with a con siderable trade in grain, horses, and cattle. Pop. 8658. BOLDON, par. Eng. Durham; 4760 ac. Pop. 915. BOLDRE, par. Eng. Hants ; 5260 ac. Pop. 2888. BOLE, par. Eng. Notts ; 1250 ac. Pop. 191. BOLECHOW, a market tn. Austria, Ga .icia, gov. Lem- berg, circle of, and 14 m. S. Stry, on the Sukiel. The salt springs in the neighbourhood furnish a large quantity of salt ; and the convent of Hoszow is much frequented by pilgrims. Pop., of whom more than a half are Jews, 2322. BOLESKINE-AND-ABERTARF, a united par. Scotland, co. Inverness. Length, about 21 m.; average breadth, about 10. It has a rough climate, abounds with tarns, and is intersected by Loch Ness. Pop. 1876. BOLI, a city, Asiatic Turkey, pash. Anatolia, 87 m. N.W. Angora, on an eminence, at the W. extremity of a fertile plain, on or near the site of the Hadrianopolis of the Romans. It has several mosques, a square, market-place, and public baths ; and is the residence of a pasha of two tails. It is a thorough fare for the caravans travelling between Erzeroom and Con stantinople. There are mineral baths within a short distance of the town, much frequented by the Turks. Pop. 6000. BOL-ILMEN, or MANITCH, a lake, Russia, formed by the Manitch ; between govs. Don Cossacks and Caucasus. It is a long irregular expanse of brackish water, stretching nearly 60 m. S.E. to N.W. ; and in average breadth does not exceed 3 m. BOLINGBltOKE, a market tn. and par. England, co. Lincoln. The town, 22 m. S.E. Lincoln, comprises an ancient church, several Nonconformist chapels, some schools and charities, and the ruins of an old castle. The market is held on Tuesday, and an annual fair on St. Peter s day. Area of par. 2570 ac. Pop. 919. BOLIVIA [formerly called UPPER PERU], an independent republic, S. America, confining on, and nearly enclosed by the States of Peru, Brazil, the Argentine republic, and Chili. When the freedom of the Spanish-American colonies was definitively won by the victory at Ayacucho, on Dec. 9, 1824, the future government and political organization of Alto (Upper) Peru, as the country was called, which embraced the provinces of Charcas, Potosi, la Paz, Cochabamba, and Santa Cruz de la Sierra, became the first and most pressing object of consideration. These territories had originally belonged to the viceroyalty of Peru, the seat of which was at Lima, 500m. distant along the cordillera; but in 1767, they were annexed to that of Buenos Ayres, still further off, and the road to which, through the desert of the Grand Chaco, was hardly less dangerous than that of the mountains. The in convenience arising from the remote distance of the seat of supreme authority, being universally felt and admitted, it was resolved to unite the liberated provinces in question into a separate republic, which, through gratitude to General Bolivnr, was named Bolivia, and this resolution was carried into effect in 1825. Boundaries. The boundary of Bolivia, towards Peru, be gins on the shore of the Pacific Ocean, at the river Loa, in lat. 21 32 S., and follows up the course of this stream E. to the Andes, where it turns N., inclining a little to the W., as far as the Nevado of Tacora, above Arica, in lat. 18 S.; it then goes N. by E. across the Lake of Titicaca to the E. cordillera, in lat. 14 S., and continues along a branch of these to the river Yapure, whence it turns to the confluence of the Beni with the Mamore, in about lat. 10 S. Here the Brazilian frontier commences, going along the Mamore, and its great affluent the Guapore or Itenez, and from the latter river in a straight line to the Yuarii, which falls into the Paraguay. Such were the boundaries fixed by treaties between Spain and Portugal, in 1750 and 1777 ; but the Brazilians have in fact encroached so much on this line, that from the Ite"nez or Guapore, in lat. 13 S., to the Otuquis, which falls into the Paraguay in lat. 20 S., a distance of at least 500 m., they have occupied a tract 50 or 100 m. wide on the S.W. or W. banks of the rivers marked by treaty as the lines of demarca tion. Along the Paraguay the Bolivian frontier extends S. to lat. 22 S., where it meets that of the Argentine republic, a conventional line running generally W. from that point across the plains to the Andes, separating these two states. The boundary towards Chili is undefined, parts of the territory being in dispute. Area. Thus it appears that Bolivia, with a frontier of more than 3000 geo. m., yet possesses but a small extent of sea-coast; and this maritime tract, which is extremely in hospitable throughout, is connected with the inland and pro ductive provinces by a portion of the cordillera, not more than 80 m. in length. Owing to its remoteness, therefore, as well as to its natural character, which unites the disadvantages of steep, rocky mountains, with those of sterile, sandy deserts, it is of little value. The most N. point of Bolivia is at the junction of the rivers Beni and Mamore, in about lat. 10 S. ; its most S., the confines of Chili. In width it extends through rather more than 12 of longitude, from the Para guay, in Ion. 58 W., to the shores of the Pacific Ocean. The area of Bolivia probably does not fall much short of 450,000 geo. sq. m. ; or nearly five times the surface of the British Islands. Divisions. Bolivia is divided into seven departments, namely, Chuquisaca, La Paz, Potosi, Cochabamba, Oruro, Santa Cruz de la Sierra, and Beni ; besides two provinces, namely, Cobija and Tarija, which, in respect to local govern ment, are on the footing of departments. These divisions are all named from their chief towns, respecting which it will be sufficient in this place to mention, that Chuquisaca is the capital of the state, and the seat of Government ; and that Cochabamba is, in public documents, sometimes called Oro pesa, though this name having failed to become popular, is now seldom used. The subdivision of the departments is as follows. For the little information possessed respecting the area and population of the departments, the reader is referred to the separate articles. Departments. 1. Chuquisaca... Provinces. Chuquisaca. Ciuti or Zinti. Yamparaes. Tumina. 2. La Paz \ S (La Pa-/, de Aya- cliucho. Paciijes. Yungas. Omasuyos. Larecaja. { Potosi. Lipes. Porco. Cliayantr Chichas. Departments. Frovina Cocliabamli Sacaba. Tapacari. 4. Cocliabaraba Arque. Ayopaya. Ciisa. Misque. (Oruro. 5. Oruro -j Poopo. ( Caranga. !Sta. Cruz Sierra. Valle Grande. Cprdillera. Cbiquitos. (Cau|)olican, 01 MS abamba< Yuraciircs. (Colijja, including J Atacama. ( Tarija. de IB Two of the provinces, Chiquitos, in the department of Sta. Cruz de la Sierra, and Moxos, in the department of Beni, are BOLIVIA 4R3 BOLIVIA BO important on account of their magnitude forming, as they do, nearly two-thirds of the whole Bolivian territory their great natural capabilities, and the civilization partially diffused among their indigenous inhabitants by the Jesuit missionaries, as to deserve especial mention. Aspect. There is no country in the world, perhaps, pos sessing such a variety of soil and climate, of physical aspect and productions, as Bolivia. Nowhere else are to be seen such contrasts of nature, exhibited in close juxta-position, and on so grand a scale. The broadest part of the Andes, where these mountains, encompassing the great lake of Titicaca, divide into two chains, known as the E. and W. Cordilleras, lies within the limits of this state. On its W. side, therefore, Bolivia presents to view an immense pile of mountains, rising in many points beyond the limits of perpetual snow, and enclosing within them an elevated plateau nearly 100 m. wide. The slope of the W. cordillera, towards the Pacific Ocean, presents a most forbidding aspect; bare rocks, fearful pre cipices, and moving sands, with but few and partial traces of verdure, weary the eye of the traveller as he toils up the steep paths which lead him from the burning climate of the coast to the regions of perpetual winter. Arrived on the elevated, treeless plain, and having now in view the snowy peaks of the E. cordillera, he may admire the grandeur of the scene, but not without a sense of its dreariness and mono tony. But when he arrives at the passes of the E. cordillera, and looks down on the deep valleys which stretch beyond, he is ravished at the total change which the garb and aspect of nature at this point undergo, and gazes with delight on the luxuriant prospect of interminable forests, and the hundreds of lively streams which hasten on to form the mightiest rivers in the world. The Andes, while they present to the W. an abrupt and uniform ridge, throw off to the E. numerous rami fications, which extend a long way from the cordillera. In the valley of the Guapey or Kio Grande, the chains of hills connected with the Andes may be traced to a distance of 350 m. from the sea-coast ; such then is the width of the Bolivian mountain region. And here again nature takes a new face. The hills cease, and are succeeded by a plain ex ceeding Great Britain in superficial extent, in which no stone, nor even a pebble is to be found, and which is annually flooded to such a degree by the numerous fine rivers which run through it towards the Amazon, that communications by boat are practicable across it, through the stately forests, in nearly all directions. This is the country of the Moxos. Beyond this, towards the Paraguay, the plain rises in general above the reach of inundation, and rocks and hills of moderate height again make their appearance. This is the country of the Chiquitos. These dry plains separate the basin of the Amazon from that of the La Plata ; but some of the affluents of the Paraguay approach so close to the sources of the Itenez, that in floods it is said a canoe can pass from the one river to the other. Such is the general outline of Bolivia ; but the chief natural features of this remarkable country, its moun tains, valleys, plains, rivers, &c., demand a more attentive and detailed consideration. Mountains. The W. cordillera of the Andes in Bolivia, attains a great height at no great distance from the sea, and exhibits not a few nevados or summits rising above the limit of perpetual snow, which in the vicinity of a great table-land lies higher than on an insulated mountain, and rarely descends here below an absolute elevation of 17,000 ft. The road from Arica into Bolivia passes between the nevados of Tacora and Niuta, while on the left is seen that of Chipicani, and on the right a still loftier series of snowy crests. The heights of these mountains, as determined by Mr. Pentland, are as follows: Feet. Feet. Tacora 18,890 i Parinacota 22,030 Chipicani 19,740 Pomarapa 21,700 Sahama Peak, iu lat. 187 ...22,350 | Gualatieri, in lat. 18 23 21,960 The pass of Tacora is itself at an elevation of 14,400 ft., which is about the general height of the W. portion of the table- land to which it conducts. The village of Tacora, one of the most elevated inhabited places on the earth, is but 150 ft. below this ridge. Of the nevados in the E. cordillera, on the opposite side of the plain, the most conspicuous are: Feet. Feet Aneohumi.or the \evatlo) 91 9Rfi I Huwayua Potosi 20,200 iiffl*:::::: =123 1 VOL. 1. Here it must be remarked, that Ancohumi and Illimani were long regarded as the highest mountains in America, or even, with the exception of one or two points of the Himalaya, in the whole world. The re-calculation, however, of the ob servations made to ascertain their height, has recently reduced them to the measure given above, Sorata losing by this cor rection nearly 4000 ft. of its supposed elevation. With this fact before us, it is impossible not to receive with mistrust the heights assigned by the same observer to the series of nevados between the parallels of 18 7 and 18 25 , and which all exceed the height of Chimborazo. From Illimani a chain of mountains runs W. by S., which bears, throughout a great portion of it, perpetual snow, and may therefore be assumed to reach an elevation of 18,000 ft. Valleys. Between the snowy heights of the Cordilleras extends a great plain, from N.N.W. to S.S.E. for above 300 m., widening towards the S. The W. side of this plain has an elevation of 14,400 ft., for a width of about 40 m.; it then sinks abruptly about 1000 ft., and slopes to the shores of the Lake of Titicaca, the level of which is about 12,700 ft. above that of the ocean. The Lake of Titicaca is connected by its outlet, the Rio Desaguadero, with the Lake of Aullagas or Ullaguas, 160 m. S.S.E. from it, and lower in level by nearly 490 ft. Here then is a great valley equal in area to Ireland, and lying at the height of from 12,280 to 14,400 ft. above the sea. This remarkable feature in the geography of Bolivia is the more deserving of attention, inasmuch as it was on the shores of Lake Titicaca that the power of the Incas chiefly lay, and the indigenous civilization of America, cradled in that elevated region, grew up with a character harmonizing completely with the skies above, and the scenes around it. Besides, the peculiar husbandry of the indigenous inhabitants of these plains, who are still numerous, and who keep large herds of llamas and alpacas, employing the former almost ex clusively in the mountains as beasts of burden, depends alto gether on the boundless extent of their dry plains and elevated pastures. The S. and more depressed part of this high plain is traversed by several low ridges, running nearly from W. to E. The openings between these break off towards the E. into numerous valleys, some of which pour their waters into the Pilcomayo, which joins the La Plata, while hundreds more contribute to swell the Mamore , Beni, and other great affluents of the Amazon. The chief of these valleys, in respect of magnitude, is Valle Grande or the valley of the Rio Grande. Elvers. The W. slope of Bolivia, or the tract between the W. cordillera and the Pacific Ocean, has no river deserving of notice ; but on the E. side of the E. cordillera, the rivers are countless, and the utmost we can do here is to group them. The hills of Chuquisaca separate the streams which flow into the Pilcomayo from those running into the Rio Grande. The Pilcomayo is probably navigable from the commencement of the plains to the Paraguay ; but, owing to the inhospitable character of much of the country through which it flows, it has hitherto engaged but littln attention, and nothing is known of its capabilities. Between the Pilcomayo and the Kio Beni, the Parapiti descends into the plains, and seems long doubtful whether it shall ally itself with the floods of the Amazon, or with those of the La Plata ; it decides, however, for the former, and spreads into extensive marshes, which overflow, during the rainy season, into the Rio Grande. This great river descends from Chuquisaca, in an E.S.E. direction, for 300 m., till it turns the last hills connected with the cor dillera; it then winds N.N.W. under the name of the Sara", till it meets the Mamore, when the joint stream flows N. through the low country of the Moxos, till it receives the Beni, and leaves the territory of Bolivia. The river-course thus described, from the source of the Rio Grande to the junction of the Beni and Mamore , exceeds 1000 m. in length, and the lower half of it is navigable for large boats. But the Mamore, and Beni also, with several of their affluents, are noble streams, navigable, to a great extent, at all seasons, and, after the rains, even to the foot of the cordillera. But again the Mamore is joined, on its r. bank, by the Guapore or Ite nez, a great and navigable river, which marks the Bra zilian frontier ; and the head waters of the Ite nez are separ ated by a portage of only a few miles from the Juara, which maybe navigated in canoes to the Paraguay. A better com munication, however (for Bolivia at least), with the last-named great river, may be found in the Oxuquis or Otuquis, which. 55 BOLIVIA 434 BOLIVIA joins the Paraguay on its r. bank, in lat. 19 50 S., and re ceives the Tucabaca, into which flows the San Rafael river, from the hills of the Chiquitos ; from the same heights flow the San Miguel, anil Baures or Rio Blanco, both navigable streams, N.N.W. to the Ite nez. Lakes. The few and inconsiderable rivers of the elevated plain between the Cordilleras, may be considered as belong ing to the lake or lakes which form one of the most striking features of that region. Lake Titicaca, the position of which has been already described in general terms, has a length of perhaps 90 m., and a breadth of about 25 ; but the delineations of it hitherto published are much at variance with respect to its shape, and are obviously not entitled to implicit confi dence. At about a third of its length from the S. end, it is contracted by peninsulas from both sides, which divide it, in fact, into two lakes ; of these, the S. and smaller one is pro perly named the Lake of Chicuito, and lies wholly in Bolivia ; of the larger basin or Titicaca, the E. shores alone fall within the limits of this state. The waters of Lake Titicaca and Chicuito are carried off, at the S. extremity of the latter, by the Rio Desaguadero, which flows S.E. about 160 m., to the Lake of Aullagas or of Pausa, as some call it. This lake is about 490 ft. lower than that of Titicaca, the waters of which it receives. It has, itself, no outlet, but is wasted by evapor ation, and is, consequently, salt. The Rio Desaguadero has a general width of 300 ft., with a moderate uniform current, and appears to be navigable throughout. In the plains of E. Bolivia, lakes are numerous, particularly during the rains ; bat these inundated tracts, however they may be denominated, are still forest as well as lake. Little in fact is known, as yet, of the situation and extent of the permanent standing waters in those great plains ; nor can we even tell exactly the position of the Salinas, whence the Indians of the mission of the Chiquitos draw, in the dry season, large quantities of excellent salt. They are vaguely described as lying about 150 m. S.W. from the most southern of these missions. Geology. The slope of the W. Cordillera, towards the sea, is formed almost wholly of trachytic conglomerates, in various stages of decomposition ; it is generally whitish, or of a red dish hue, but dark-coloured rocks of kindred origin frequently break through it. The point which shelters the harbour of Cobija is a mass of basaltic porphyry. The Cerro de Tacora, and other dome-shaped summits of the ridge, are of trachyte, the bare rock being often exposed, as on the nevado of Chipi- cani, in consequence of its steepness. It has been said that some of the conical summits of this cordillera are extinct volcanoes, and that the Cerro de Tacora is a true Solfatara ; but it seems now fully established, that no lavas or other vol canic productions, of a geologically recent age, are found on the Bolivian table -land, which is never disturbed by earth quakes ; and, as to active volcanoes, the Bolivians know of only one, which is situate, in the S. part of the maritime cordillera, in the province of Carangas. The disintegrated trachyte, which covers the W. and more elevated part of the table-land, abounds in quartz crystals, exhibits much saline efflorescence, and is generally adverse to vegetation. The river Maure, running S.E. through this tract till it falls into the Desaguadero, has worn its bed, in a wide chasm, 600 ft. deep ; the W. side of which presents to view horizontal strata of the whitish trachytic conglomerate, while the E. side is formed of basaltic porphyries. The country thence E. has a more diversified and broken outline, the hollows of the ground not being filled up, as on the W., by mouldering trachyte. This geological character continues across the plain to the E. cordillera ; there the snows of the Illimani rest on an im mense pile of granite. The general direction of the granitic range is N.W. and S.E. In its neighbourhood the trachytic rocks become micaceous; on the E., the granite is overlaid by rocks of the Silurian and Devonian systems, through which it has forced its way, upheaving them so that some of the sand stones of the Devonian series nearly reach the height of per petual snow. The granite seems to extend from Illimani N.W. ; but towards the S., from Oruro to Potosi, it is probable that the Silurian and other overlying strata have been raised by trachyte. The granite shows itself only in the elevated chain of the E. cordillera ; but to the E. of it are found a few spots of porphyry, and with these end all traces of Plutonian rocks throughout the lowlands of Bolivia. The rock next met with in the plains is older, and of a totally different char acter. The hills or mountains of the Chiquitos are 200 m. distant from the nearest branch of the cordillera, and form a system quite distinct from the Andes on the one side, and the Brazilian mountains on the other. They consist of gneiss, a stratified rock, which here extends from W.N.W. to E.S.E., and resembles a long island in the midst of a sea of alluvium. It is, in many places, broken and dislocated by the forces which have raised it into its present position. The gneiss is overlaid by foliated Silurian strata, the lowest of which has a thickness of at least 600 ft. ; and on this again rests sand stone of the Devonian series, after which comes the red car boniferous sandstone. The depressions in these formations are, as it may be supposed, filled up, and levelled by alluvium or sedimentary deposits of various ages. Of these, the most remarkable are the alluvium of the Pampas, which seems to have been derived from the wear of the gneiss rock, and con tains, in great abundance, the fossil remains of mammalia, many of them of great size, as the giant armadillo, the three- toed sloth, the American horse, &c.; this stratum, which contains the remains of an extinct animal world, is covered immediately by a deposit, enclosing the shells of existing species ; another alluvium, called the guardni tertiary, con tains hydrates of iron in abundance, and is generally found resting horizontally on the carboniferous limestones. It may be remarked, that the cretaceous and marine tertiary forma tions are here wholly wanting, and that the plain, in general, has been levelled by a sea of mud, now distinguished as the fossiliferous alluvium, and which is, in many places, covered by modern sediments made up of fine sand and decayed vege tation. Minerals. Here, as elsewhere, the precious metals are found chiefly in the Silurian strata, where these approach the igneous rocks. Gold is found in many of the streams that fall down the E. side of the cordillera, and at Choquecameta ; near Cochabamba, at the sources of the Rio Grande, as well as at Tipuani, near Sorata, the washing of the gold-sands is still carried on with profit. In the same district the schists of Palca are rich in silver ; and thence S.E., by Oruro to Po tosi, this whole country is famed for the incalculable treasures which have been drawn from it, chiefly in the form of auriferou.3 silver-ores. The celebrated Potosi was once the richest silver- district in the world. From the year 1556 down to 1834, it yielded 163,000,000, without counting the large quantity of silver stolen by the Indian labourers ; probably equal to one- fourth more. Though many of the veins are now exhausted, and the rest are imperfectly wrought, the annual yield of this renowned mountain is still 450,000. The tin -mines, in the department of Oruro, are said to be the richest in the world. At Corocoro and Huallamarca, both in the same department, but 120 m. asunder, copper is found nearly pure. But these and all other sources of wealth are rendered comparatively valueless for export purposes from the difficulty and great expense of bringing them down to the coast. Climate. From the foregoing account of the physical aspect and conformation of Bolivia, it might be at once con cluded that it embraces every variety of climate, from the heat and humidity of the torrid zone, to the perpetual frost of the polar circle. On the elevated table-land there is frost every night, and the morning ice on the river Tacora is always strong enough to bear a man ; but here, on the borders of perpetual snow, the climate has one great advantage over that of polar regions, for the sky is always bright and cloudless, and the air dry. The atmospheric phenomena which charac terize this region may be best studied on the E. cordillera, whence may be seen, towards the E., like a misty sea, the clouds which roll over the luxuriant forests of the plains and valleys beneath. This sea of clouds generally rests, at a cer tain elevation, on the side of the cordillera ; but, during three months of the year, it rises, and fragments of it pass over to the table-land. Then follow violent storms and showers of rain ; and, at this season (chiefly in December, the hottest month), the nevados put on their annual covering of new snow. But the clouds and rains rarely reach the W. half of the table land, and never pass the W. cordillera. From the confines of Bolivia, on the S., as far N. as Payta, in Peru, or about the parallel of 5 S., it seldom or never rains. Adjacent to this arid region, the table-land of Bolivia enjoys bright skies for nine months in the year, and has three months of rain to restore the verdure, and of mountain-snows to supply the BOLIVIA 435 BOLIVIA rivers. But a little further E., even a day s journey down from the crest of the cordillera, may be found places where rain falls every day in the year. The inhabitants of these countries distinguish three regions of climate, the Puna, Pa ramo, and Yungas. The first is elevated and cold, and dis agreeable to those unused to it, from the difficulty of respiring in an attenuated atmosphere. This is the region of the llama and alpaca ; higher up still is the Puna brava, which is frequented by the wild guanaco and the vicuna. The country round Lake Titicaca comes, for the most part, under the denomina tion of Puna. The second or middle region is the Paramo, which is temperate and productive. The Paramos have been naturally taken advantage of by the European settlers, who have filled them, as in the valley of La Paz, with European grains and fruits. Below the Paramos lie the Yungas or valleys, having a decidedly hot climate, and distinguished by a rank vegetation. Thus La Paz, seated in a Paramo, and enjoying a climate resembling that of the S. of France, is close to the region of the llama on the one side, and on the other, to valleys yielding excellent coffee, cocoa, and other tro pical productions. The inhabitants of these deep valleys are not uufrequently afflicted with goitres, but are said to be not liable to the cretinism which, in Europe, often attends on that disease. Intermittent fever is frequent in some of the valleys on the E. side of the cordillera ; but it is not easy to trace out the source of the malaria producing it, as some spots, quite exempt from the disease, enjoy no visible advantages of situation above others, the air of which is reputed to be most deadly. Water does not seem, in this part of the world, to be a principal agent in creating or disseminating disease ; for while some valleys, apparently favoured by nature, are scarcely habitable, owing to fever, the villages of the Indians, in the midst of marshes or of inundated forests, are often quite also the viscacha or long-eared marmot, the burrows of which healthy. In the plains of the Moxo and Chiquitos, the pre- i sometimes occupy a great space in the plains. On the wooded vailing wind is from the N. ; the E. wind blows sometimes, and is likewise a warm wind. The W. wind is never felt, being intercepted by the cordillera. The S. wind is extremely cold, and, to the inhabitants of the plains, disagreeable. The rains fall chiefly from October to April. Botany. The botany of Bolivia is, of course, as various as its climate. On the ridge of the W. cordillera, there is no deficiency of species of Alpine plants ; but, taken collec tively, they form but a scanty vegetation, so that the treeless and dreary plain seems, at the first glance, to be wholly des titute of vegetable life ; yet dwarf plants occupy the clefts of the loosened rocks. A broom grows to the height of 5 or 15 inches, according to the elevation of the ground ; and several small plants (as Laretia acaulis, Verbena mimina, and Lyco- podium hastatum), attaching themselves to the projecting parts of rocks, there increase, in the course of ages, perhaps, into tufts of considerable magnitude, so compact that lichens grow upon them, and so strong that the axe alone can lay them j open. Owing to their density and resinous nature, these tufts are valuable as fuel. An aromatic little bush character izes the trachytic plain ; lower down, as soon as available soil is met with, the Indian plants, potatoes, and, in favourable spots, barley is sown, not for the sake of the grain, which does not ripen here, but as green food for the loaded mules that cross the plain. Towards the shores of the lake, though trees are still wanting, the grasses become luxuriant, and 20 species of gramineous plants have been gathered there in a hasty excursion. In descending the E. cordillera, the first plant which attracts especial attention is the cactus, like a cande labra, or in other majestic forms, and which, in a particular zone (perhaps about 7000 ft. above the sea), attains a height of 40 ft. This is followed by the zone of acacias ; and, lower down, the species increase, and the forest thickens, till at length, near the foot of the mountains, the bamboo and tree ferns grow beneath the canopy formed by the graceful foliage of palms nearly 50 ft. high. An attempt to describe system atically the productions of these forests would here be out of place. Let it suffice to say, that, in these primeval forests, the Indians find all their wants supplied. Here they procure the trunks of trees, from which their large canoes are made ; as well as the canes to build, and palm leaves to cov their houses. From the inner bark of a kind of mulberry, they obtain a vegetable gauze, of which they make their shirts, and which does not lose by a comparison with cotton. The woods of the Moxos abound in the mate leaf or Paraguay tea ; the sea-shore or in the forests, they are numerous enough, when on the wing, to darken the sky. From the condor, which soars above the Andes, to the diminutive humming birds, from the loud-screaming parrot to the musical organito, birds of all character, size, and plumage, are to be found in Bolivia. People. The population of this country is variously esti mated at from f.OO.ooO to 1,600,000; it probably does not ex ceed 1,000,000 ; of whom two-thirds belong to the aboriginal race of the country, and the remainder are Mestizoes, or de scendants of the original settlers by native women. The in digenous inhabitants of the Bolivian highlands, near Lake Titicaca, are, the Aymaru; while to the N. and E. dwell the Quichua, with whom the former were united under the dominion of the Incas. These two nations speak distinct, though cognate languages. Numerous monuments of the national prosperity and civilization of the Aymarus still remain. Ancient villages, with domed houses built of stone, or of sun-dried brick, and with enclosures for cattle ; truncated obelisks, facing E. and W.; and well-built tombs, containing the mummies of whole families, arranged together in a sitting posture, are strewed thickly over the country, and seem to indicate the former existence of a considerable popu lation. The Aymarus are industrious, gentle, and intelligent. They seem to prefer the pastoral life, and the cultivation of the potato, to any other occupation. As Christians, they nearer the cordillera is found the tree which yields the balsam of Peru ; and higher up, that producing cinchona or Peruvian bark. Cultivation. The valleys occupied by the Spanish settlers on the E. slope of the Bolivian high land, and varying in height from 12,500 ft. to 8000 ft. above the ocean, produce abundantly all the fruits and grains of Europe. The vine, | the cultivation of which was forbidden by the jealous policy | of Spain, is now introduced. The warm and well watered | valleys, as that of Cochabamba, supply with corn and fruit the populous buf comparatively sterile districts of the table land. In the Yungas, and the hot plains of Santa Cruz, the objects of culture are coffee (said to be excellent), cocoa, tobacco, indigo, cotton, maize at all seasons, yuca or mandioc, potatoes, guavas, the chirimoya (a delicious fruit), the sugar cane, and, abos e all, coca. This is the leaf of a shrub (Kry- tkroxylum Peruvianum) which the inhabitants of this part of the world masticate as the Malays chew the betel-nut ; and such is the force of habit, that coca is, to the Bolivian and Peru vian, an article of the utmost necessity; without it he pines ; with it, the smallest quantity of food will sustain him through great fatigue. The yearly sale of coca in Bolivia amounts to 10,150,000 Ibs. a large quantity to supply the wants of a particular class, in a population of 1,000,000 at the utmost. Zoology. The quadrupeds inhabiting the elevated parts of the cordillera, are few in number as well as in species. The llama and alpaca, which are domesticated, are thought to be but varieties of the guanaco, which is still wild ; the vicuna is a different species. On the same heights with the guanaco is often to be seen the rough-haired deer (Cervus Antisianus). The chinchilla, hunted for its beautiful fur. and now almost extirpated, prefers the neighbourhood of the snow, as does .es of the E. cordillera, the cactus thickets afford shelter to bears. Lower down, the pecari wastes the cultivated fields, and the jaguar attacks the cattle. The number of these beasts ! of prey, however, is rapidly diminishing, the governor of Santa Cruz paying a cow for every jaguar skin brought in. The tapir, the glutton, sloth, armadillo, and many other animals, are killed by the natives for food. The large rivers flowing into the Amazon are frequented by the fresh-water dolphins peculiar to this quarter of the globe. These have a formid able enemy in the cayman or alligator, which, together with the palameta or armed bream, and some voracious small fish, renders the waters of the Bolivian plains extremely danger ous. The vampire bat is so troublesome in Caupolican and other parts of the Yungas, as to prevent the rearing of cattle. The forests are crowded with monkeys of different species, always social and active. Their varied cries, mingled with those of birds, show how much life there is in these wild solitudes. But that which chiefly astonishes the naturalist here, is the multitude of the feathered tribe. Whether on BOLIVIA 438 BOLNHURST retain many of their pagan usages, dancing in masquerade at certain church festivals, for two or three days without inter mission. The clothing of the peasantry is generally black ; in the towns, the women pri.le themselves on the number of 2 3 1 COS1VMES OF AYM AIU S AKD QUICIR AS. Fjom D Orbigny. Fis. I, 2, 3, Ajmarue; Fig. 4, tjuichua. petticoats they wear ; they load themselves accordingly, till, with felt hats of immense circumference, these swarthy beauties are as broad as they are long. The Quichua Indians, on the E. side of the Cordillera, do not differ much from the Aymarus. In the provinces of the Moxos and Chiquitos, DO.MKD HOUSE OP THE AYMARUS. From D Orbi s ny, Voywit cian 1 Anu-rique Miri.lionnle. 1 iere are the remnants of perhaps some 20 nations or com munities, speaking different languages; but the judicious policy of the Jesuits, who founded these missions, and sought l>y all means to unite the scattered tribes under one language (the Chiqutto) and uniform customs, is still persevered in, and the original distinctions between the aboriginal tribes are rapidly disappearing. The Indians are collectively tractable and honest ; and some of them, as the Moxos, seem to have entered fairly on the career of civilization. The Spaniards in Santa Cruz, and other remote parts of Bolivia, have adopted the simplest mode of life ; the clothing of both sexes is scanty; their houses, far from being luxurious, want even comfort. Their amusements, which occupy much of their time, are dancing, and drinking chicha, a kind of beer made from maize. Trade. It might be supposed at the first view, that a state, possessing such extensive territories as Bolivia, with a soil so prolific, such variety of climate and productions, and such noble rivers, has within itself all the elements of commercial prosperity; but a little consideration will show, that the state in question is debarred to a great extent, by nature and posi tion, from those facilities of communication without which commerce cannot flourish. The enormous cost of carriage from the sea-coast across the Cordillera, to the populous towns of the interior, must necessarily operate to discourage trade by that route. And as to facility of intercourse with the sea, by muaii.-j of the rivers Otuquis, Paraguay, Parana, and La Plata, or by the Beni, Guapey, Madeira, and Amazon, thp.*e courses suppose a river navigation of 1500 or 2000 m., a preliminary condition which, so far as commerce by sea is concerned, must subject the foreign trade of Bolivia to great disadvantage. With these drawbacks the trade of the country is not of much importance, the most of it being internal with the neighbouring republics of La Plata and Peru. The Yungas supply the high lands with coca, coffee, sugar, and cocoa, and other products of the warmer regions ; the high lands send chilona (or dried meat) and corn to the Yungas ; and the silver of Potosi, the tin of Oruro, the copper of Corocoro, the cinchona of the forest, and the gold of Tipuani, constitute the medium of exchange for European commodities. The Spanish settlers, who thought of nothing but the precious metals, have never condescended to profit from the example of the Incas, and to construct good roads. Hence it is that wheeled vehicles are unknown in Bolivia. The construction of a good road for wheel carriages over the \V. cordillera, and of a railway connecting the Parana with Chuquisaca, may appear perhaps to be undertakings far beyond the present resources of the republic ; but they must, nevertheless, pre cede any considerable development of its trade and industry ; and, under judicious management, would doubtless prove even tually remunerative. History. The early history of Bolivia is included in that of Peru. As the state was constituted in 1825, Bolivian history, properly so called, commences with that epoch. The constitu tion which was drawn up for the new state, by General Bolivar, and was adopted by the Congress in 1826, makes ample pro vision for personal and political liberty, securing religious toleration, the freedom of the press, and the independence of the tribunals. It established a legislative body, composed of two chambers, namely, the congress and the senate, with a president elected for five years. The public debt amounts (1850) to about 1 ,084,943. (Procter s Nar. of Jour, across the Cordillera of the Andes, and of a ltesiden.ee in Lima; Steven son s Historical and Descriptive Narrative of Twenty years Residence in tS. America, &c.; Lieut.-Col. Brand s Journal of a Voyage to Peru, and Passage across the Cordillera of the Andes; Memoirs of Gen. Miller in the Service of the Republic of Peru ; Beauchamp, Histoire de la Conquite et des Revolu tions du Perou; D Orbigny, Voyage dans I Amerique Mtri- dionale, 1826-33 ; Private Information.} BOLKENHAIN, a tn. and circle, Prussian Silesia. The I town lies 19 m. S.S.W. Liegnitz, 1. bank, Neiss ; and has two churches, two schools, a townhouse, and hospital ; with some woollen, linen, and ribbon manufactures. Pop. 2450. The CIRCLE, area, 98 geo. sq. m., is mountainous, and covered to a great extent with wood, but is fertile ; yielding flax, hops, i and potatoes. Silver, copper, arsenic, and sulphur, are found, ! and linen is manufactured extensively. Pop. 32,413. iBOLEHOFF, or BALKHOV, a tn. Itussia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 34 m. N. Orel, on the Nougra. It is a very ancient place, is chiefly built of wood, and contains 22 churches, a monastery, and a nunnery. It has manufactures of leather, and of worsted stockings, and a considerable trade in hemp, hemp-oil, and tallow. Pop. 10,000. BOLLATE, a tn. Austrian Italy, prov. of, and 6 m. N.W. Milan ; with a square, and a parish church. Pop. 2021. BOLLENE, a tn. France, dep. Vaucluse, 23 m. N. Avignon, in a fertile territory, watered by the Lez. Silk of good quality is spun, and several important markets, two of them of three days each, are held here. Pop. 2860. BOLL ULOS- DEL -CONDADO, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 18 m. E. by N. Huelva. It has narrow, ill-made streets, a square, two churches, a session-house, townhall, hos pital, three schools, a prison, and several convents. Manu factures : earthenware, tiles, and brandy. Produce of vicinity : wine and oil. Exports: grain and wine. Pop., chiefly agricultural, 4638. (Madoz.) BOLM, a maritime dist. or territory, "W. Africa, S.S.E. from the peninsula of Sierra Leone, extending N. from the Sherboro river to Yawry Bay, and intersected nearly in the centre by the parallel of 8 N. BOLMEN, a lake, Sweden, Jonkopings Ian, 53 m. N.N.W. Christianstad, about 20 m. long, by 7 broad. In it is the island of Bolmso, forming a whole parish. BOLNEY, par. Eng. Sussex ; 3550 ac. Pop. 713. BOLNHUKST, par. Eng. Bedford ; 2130 ac. Pop. 344- BOLOGNA 437 BOLOGNA BOLOGNA, a delegation, Papal States, bounded, N. by deleg. Ferrara, E. by deleg. Ravenna, S. by Tuscany, and W. by Modena; area, 1296 sq. m. The surface in the S. is mountainous, being traversed by ramifications of the Apennines; but, in the N., slopes down toward the plains of Lombardy. It is watered by numerous streams, which are extensively employed in irrigating rice fields, and make the air rather unhealthy. In addition to wheat and maize, which are the principal cereal crops, rice, hemp to a great extent, and saffron, are raised. The olive also is cultivated, and a good deal of wine of moderate quality is produced. Con siderable attention is paid to the rearing of silkworms, and silk is both spun and woven to a considerable extent. The chief trade is in hemp, cordage, rice, and silk. Pop. 322,228. BOLOGNA [Latin, Bononia; French, Boloyne], after Rome, the first city, Papal States, cap. deleg. of the same name, residence of a cardinal legate, seat of an archbishopric, and of one of the four appeal courts of the States, in a beautiful and fertile plain, at the foot of the lower slopes of the Apen nines, between the Savena and the Reno, 190 m. N.N.W. Rome, and 396 ft. above the level of the sea. It is sur rounded by a high brick wall, in which are 12 gates, and has a circuit of about 5 m., being nearly 2 in. long, and 1 in. broad. It is divided into four quarters, the older of which, indifferently built, and consisting of narrow tortuous streets, have a heavy, antique, and gloomy aspect, and strikingly con trast with the broad and well-paved thoroughfares and the noble structures of the modern city. One of the peculiar features of Bologna is the line of arcades continued through all the streets, and covering the footpath, so as to afford both shade and shelter. The public edifices are numerous, and many of them magnificent. The churches alone exceed 70, and are remarkable, not more for the beauty of their architecture than the works of art which they contain. The most deserving of notice are the cathedral (il Duomo), founded in very early times, but repeatedly rebuilt, and not completed, in its present form, till 1748, of imposing appearance, arranged, in the interior, in the Corinthian style, and adorned with numerous fine paint ings and frescoes, particularly an Annunciation, the last fresco executed by Ludovico Carracci ; the church of San Petroneo, the largest in Bologna, and though unfinished, one of the finest specimens of Italian Gothic ; San Stefano, the oldest, and perhaps the most curious, formed by the union of seven churches, containing numerous fine paintings and very early relics of antiquity ; San Domenico, with its adjoin ing cloister of the same name ; San Salvatore, San Giacomo, and San Giovanni in Monte. Of numerous public and private palaces, the most deserving of notice are the Palazzo Mag- giore del Publico, where the legate resides, adorned with numerous fine statues, and containing, among other magnificent halls, the Sala Farnese, whose roof and walls are covered by paintings of celebrated masters ; and the Palazzo de Podesta, remarkable as the prison of King Enzius, son of the great Emperor Frederick II., captured by the Bolognese, in 1249, and detained, in spite both of the threats and offered ransom of the Emperor, till his death in 1272. Among the most conspicuous structures of the city are two leaning towers, near its centre. The one, built in 1109, by Gerard Asinelli, whose name it bears, was originally higher than at present, but an earthquake overthrew the upper portion of it, and reduced its height to 256 ft. It inclines 3 ft. 2 in. from the perpendicular. The Garisenda tower was built in 1110. Its height is 130 ft., and its inclination 8 ft. From one of the gates of the city, an arcade, nearly 3 m. long, with 700 arches, leads to the handsome church of La-Madonna-di-San-Luca; in the vicinity of which is a fine public cemetery. This arcade is one of the finest structures of the kind built since the time of the Romans. Bologna has always held a pro minent place in the annals of art and science. Its university is the most ancient in Italy, having been founded in the year 425, by the Emperor Theodosius. It was considerably augmented by Charlemagne. The number of students attend ing it, at one period, was not less than 10,000 ; and its pro fessors were of European reputation. One remarkable honour peculiar to this university is the number of its learned female professors, of whom three distinguished themselves, respec tively, in the chairs of law, mathematics, and anatomy. Legal studies at one time had the pre-eminence, but medicine now uolda the first place. The building, including the university, institute, and other similar establishments, was originally the Palazzo Cellesi, purchased by the Senate to receive the noble bequests of Count Marsigli, a friend of Newton, including a rich cabinet of natural history, a museum of antiquities, THE ASINELLI AND GARISENDA TOWERS, BOLOGNA. Fivm Galij Knight s Eicli statical Architecture ofl.alj. and a library of 150,000 volumes, with many MSS. Count Marsigli also founded and endowed an observatory, an anato mical hall, and a botanical garden, which is one of the most complete in Europe. There is another public library, con taining 83,000 volumes, and 4000 MSS. The collection of works of art is numerous ; among which, that of the academy of painting, endowed in modern times by the municipality, principally with the treasures of abolished churches and monasteries, is rich and full of historical interest. In the 16th century, the Caracci, Guido Reni, Domenichino, and Albano, founded a school, to which their works have given great reputation. Many of their paintings adorn the churches and collections of the city. Bologna has likewise three theatres, and a casino -or assembly-room, for the upper classes, supplied with literary and political journals, and several well- endowed and well-managed hospitals, of which the first place is due to the Ospedale Grande. One curious fact connected with it is, that the number of cases of stabbing annually admitted into it averages 500. The manufactures of Bologna are important ; consisting of silk goods, velvet, crape, coarse linen, common cloth, cordage, and paper, excel lent liqueurs, scented soap, artificial flowers and fruits, and salted provisions. The cervelas and mortadello sausages of Bologna, are known throughout Europe. Glass, jewellery, leather, needles, and small steelwares, straw hats, nitric and sulphuric acid, and cream-of tartar, are likewise manufactured here. Commerce is facilitated by the Bologna Canal. The people of Bologna are frank, gay, and spirited ; their bearing is the most manly and independent of any people of the Papal States, owing probably to the ardour for political freedom, imbibed from their ancient political institutions. The women are generally handsome. The dialect spoken is the most uncouth and corrupt of all Italy. Foundlings are numerous, illegitimate births being one-eighth of the whole. The air of Bologna is pure, but, from the proximity of the Apennines, liable to sudden changes, causing frequent inflam matory diseases. Bologna is the Bononia of the Romans. A Christian church was erected in it in the third century, and in 728 it passed into the hands of the Lombards, from whom it was taken in 800 by Charlemagne. In the 12th century, Bologna took possession of several of the surrounding cities, and for 156 years (1118 to 1274), formed the most flourishing republic in Italy. In 1506, it was united to the Papal States. Bologna has produced eight popes, 100 cardinals, the natur alists Galvani and Aldrovandi, the anatomists Malpighi and BOLONCHEN 438 BOLSOVER Mondino, the astronomer Marsigli, the mathematician and engineer Manfredi, the painters Guido, Albano, Barbieri, Domenichino, the three Caracci ; and the professors Monti, Orioli, Tommasini, and Mezzofanti. Pop. 72,000. BOLOXC1IEN, a large thriving vil.. Central America, Yucatan, 66 m. N.E. Campeachy. It derives its name from two Maya words: Bolen, nine, and cJien, wells ; nine wells having formed, from time immemorial, the centre of a popu lation, and these wells being now in the plaza or square of the village, which consists of a long line of straggling houses or huts, on either side the road. The wells are circular open- | ings, cut through a stratum of rock, evidently communicating , with a common reservoir, for the water is always at the same j level in one that it is in all the rest. The village authorities make it a principal part of their business to keep these wells j in a proper state of preservation ; but, with all the care be- | stowed upon them, the supply of water completely fails for , four or fi ve months in the year. During the season of scarcity, the inhabitants derive their supply of water from a remark able cavern (cueva) at a considerable distance from the village, j The entrance to this cavern is by a lofty and abrupt opening, I under a ledge of overhanging rock. At the distance of 60 j paces from the entrance, the descent is precipitous for about 80 ft., and is accomplished by a ladder. A little further ; advance leads to the brink of a great perpendicular descent, | to the bottom of which a strong body of light is thrown from I a hole in the surface, a depth of 210 ft. From the brink of j this precipice the descent is made by a ladder, between 70 and i 80 ft. long, and about 12 ft. wide, rudely constructed of the rough trunks of saplings, lashed together lengthwise, and sup ported by horizontal trunks, braced against the face of the precipitous rock. In the large cavern at the foot of this lad der, seen in the accompanying view, a village fete is annually the nature of the whole descent some idea may be formed by an examination of the accompanying section. There would ooda Views in Central held at the opening of the wells in the cueva, which takes place on a day appointed by the municipality. The walls of the rocky chamber are dressed with branches, and hung with lights, and the whole village comes out with refreshments and music, the pastor at their head, and pass the day in dancing in the cavern, and rejoicing that when one source of supply fails, another is opened to their need. By a laborious descent from this great cavern, Mr. Stephens reached a pool of water, calculated to be at a depth of 450 ft. per pendicular height, and 1 400 ft. distant from the entrance to the cave. The number of ladders leading down is seven ; and of Scale oj Feet. SECTION OF WELL AT BOLONCHEN. appear to be seven water pools, several of which Mr. Stephens visited, reached by various passages diverging from the great cavern, at the foot of the ladder. The surface of the surround ing country is mountain limestone. Pop. of vil. 7000. (Stephens Incidents of Travel in Yucatan.} BOLOR-TAGH, a lofty mountain-range, Central Asia, W. of Little Tibet, stretching nearly due N. and S. It forms one of the N. branches of the Himalaya, connecting it with the Thian Shan range, and several others beyond or further N. Its most elevated summits are supposed to exceed 19,000 ft. in height. In these mountains, great numbers of a diminutive species of ox, called yalc or kash-gow, are reared. BOLOTANA, a tn., isl. Sardinia, 41 m. S.E. Sassari, in a fertile district that produces excellent corn and pasture. It contains a monastery. Pop. 2274. BOLSAS, a river, America, rising in confederacy and state of Mexico, and, after a considerable \V. course, in part of which it forms the boundary of the state of Mexico and Valladolid, falls into the Pacific Ocean at Zacatula, 240 m. S.W. the city of Mexico ; lat, 17 53 N.; Ion. 102 20 W. BOLSCHA.TA-RJEKA, a river, Kamtchatka, which rises among hills in the S. of that peninsula, and, flowing W., falls into the Sea of Okhotsk, below Bolsherezk. Its chief affluent is the Natschika, after receiving which it becomes navigable for barges. In spring tides, it admits the largest vessels at its mouth. BOLSENA [anc. Vulsinium], a tn. and lake, Papal States, deleg. of, and 20 m. N.N.W. Viterbo. The TOWN stands on the N. side of the lake of the same name. It is surrounded by a high wall flanked with towers, and defended by a ditch, and is rich in remains of antiquity. Pop. 2000. The LAKE [anc. Locus Vulsiniensis}, supposed to have been a crater, is about 9 m. long, and about 7 m. broad, 285 ft. deep at the deepest part, 1000 ft. above the level of the sea, and well stocked with fish. It is surrounded by wooded hills, affords some charming scenery, contains the two islands of Bisentina and Martana, which were anciently believed to be floating ; and gives rise to the river Marta, which flows to the Mediterranean. BOLSHEREZK, a small tn. and port, Kamtchatka, S.W. coast, about 160 m. N.W. Cape Lopatka; lat. 52 55 30" N.; Ion. 156 50 E. (K.) The houses are built of wood, and thatched. BOLSOVER, a tn. or vil. and par. England, co. Derby. The town, about 22 m. N.N.E. Derby, stands upon a high BOLSWARD 439 BOLTON table-land overlooking the vale of Scarsdale, and has tolerably straight, and pretty well kept streets ; the houses are irregularly built, and generally of a mean appearance. The church, an ancient building, is in the early English style, and contains some curious specimens of antique sculpture. There are also an Independent and Wesleyan chapels, and a national school. Bolsover was at one time celebrated for the manufacture of buckles, but now it has no manufactures of any kind. Area of par. 6060 ac. Pop. (1841), 1512. (Local Correspondent.} BOLSWARD, a tn. Holland, prov. Friesland, 15 m. S. W. Leeuwarden, at the junction of several canals. It is bordered N.E. by rich corn and pasture lands, and on the W. and S. has several lakes that teem with fish. It is circular, surrounded by a high earthen rampart, now a public walk planted with trees, and is everywhere intersected with deep canals, crossed by numerous stone and wooden bridges. The streets are wide and airy, the houses and gardens remarkably neat and clean. The parish church is said to be the largest and finest in Friesland, and has an elaborately carved pulpit, represent ing the four seasons, and supported by two eagles. There are two Eeformed churches, two R. Catholic, a Baptist church, and a synagogue ; a Latin, a Dutch and French, a Dutch, and a poors school. Bolsward has a highly ornamented townhouse, and a court-house, a well-endowed poorhouse for Reformed, R. Catholics, and Baptists, a poorhouse for the Reformed alone, and an hospital, called the Provenier s House, in which frugal persons, by yearly payments beforehand, may purchase a comfortable retreat for their old age. The trade consists chiefly in cattle, cheese, and butter ; above half a million Ibs. of cheese, and nearly as much butter, are yearly brought to market. Many of the inhabitants make their living by spin ning what, under the name of Friesland worsted, is sent largely to other provinces. There are also two woollen and one linen manufactory, shipbuilding yards, tile and brick works, pot teries, and tanworks. Pop. 3650. BOLT HEAD, a cape, England, co. Devon, the most S. point of that county ; lat. 50 13 N. ; Ion. 3 49 W. BOLTANA, a tn. Spain, Aragon, prov. of, and 30 m. N.E. Huesca, 1. bank, Ara. It has pretty good though steep streets, one principal and several smaller squares, a collegiate church, chapel, two schools, a townliall, prison, and store house. Manufactures: linen, woollen, and silken fabrics, and hempen shoes. Trade : cattle, earthenware, and apparel, manufactured goods, and raw silk. Pop. 2360. BOLTON, or BOLTON-LE-MOORS, a large manufacturing tn., bor., and par. England, co. Lancaster. The town lies 10 m. N. W. Manchester, and consists of two divisions, called, respectively, Great Bolton and Little Bolton. It contains a great number of narrow and irregular lanes, but by far the larger portion of "it is modern, the public improvements, within the last 30 years, having been very extensive. The principal streets unite at a spacious market-place, and are crooked and irregular ; ill paved, and worse drained. The houses are chiefly of brick, badly built, and of every form and dimension, and destitute, in most cases, of all comfort and conveniency. The town is lighted with gas ; and, since 1824, has been plentifully supplied with water. The public edifices comprise a townhall, exchange buildings, erected in 1825, in which year a mechanics institute was established ; a theatre, the old cloth hall, the Bolton dispensary and infirmary, a spacious temperance hall, in Little Bolton, used for lectures, public meetings, concerts, &c. In 1846, splendid baths, with public rooms for concerts, &c., were erected. A handsome building has recently been finished for the savings -bank. Great Bolton has also several news -rooms and public libraries. The parish church of St. Peter, in Great Bolton, is a spacious and very ancient structure, with a beautiful stained-glass window. In 1825, an elegant new church, in the later style of English architecture, with a tower, was erected ; and, since then, Emmanuel Church and Christ Church have been built, all in Great Bolton. In Little Bolton there are three Established churches. The Wesleyans have three large chapels in the borough, one of which is also used as a Sunday-school. The Wesleyans are also erecting (1850) a spacious new chapel in stone, in the perpendicular Gothic style. The R. Catho lics have two chapels, and the Independents three. A Scot tish church, in the early English style, was erected in 1846. There are many other places of worship, for Baptists, several denominations of Methodists, Unitarians, and Swedenborgians. The local charities are numerous and well conducted. The free grammar-school, containing 60 boys, was founded and endowed in 1641. A charity school, containing 90 pupils, was founded and endowed in 1693; and another, the Church- gate charity school, was founded in 1714. There are, be sides, in the parish, numerous public schools, conducted on the systems of the National, and British and Foreign School Societies. Some of these are in edifices that are highly credit able to the friends of education, and ornamental to the town. There are Sunday-schools in connection with almost every place of worship in the parish, embracing in their operations, nearly one-fifth of the population, and frequently retaining the scholars until they become adults. The one in connection with the parish church numbers more than 1300 scholars, and is conducted in a building of freestone, in the later Eng lish style, erected in 1819. Within the last 70 years, the town has greatly increased, and attained to a high degree of commercial prosperity. In 1337, emigrant Flemings intro duced the manufacture of woollen cloth into Bolton, and laid the foundation of its future importance. So early as the reign of Henry VIII., the town and its vicinity were celebrated for producing what Leland calls cottons ; which, however, were woollens, the vegetable cotton not having been introduced until the reign of James I. After the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, in 1685, many of the French refugees took up their abode in the town. Prior to the introduction of the cotton trade, some weavers from the palatinate of the Rhina had introduced the manufacture of a mixed fabric, partly of linen yarn (chiefly imported from Germany), and partly of cotton. The chief articles were fustian, jean, and thickset ; velvets, entirely of cotton, were first made here in 1756; and muslins, cotton quiltings, and dimities, in 1763. Many of the subsequent improvements in the cotton manufacture origin ated in Bolton, and to these it mainly owes its present flourish ing condition. Between 1767 and 1775, Sir Richard Ark- wright, originally a barber, and resident here, brought the spinning jenny and the water-frame machines to perfection ; and Samuel Crompton, a native of the parish, who resided in the neighbourhood, invented a machine called the mule, combining the properties of both. The factories of Bolton continued long on a small scale, in consequence of the scarcity of water, till the employment of steam as a motive power, and the adoption of power looms, enabled the proprietors both to enlarge their works, and greatly to improve and extend the trade. In 1847, Bolton had 61 cotton-mills, using annually about 6000 tons raw cotton ; and other four large factories are just now (1850) being built. The articles chiefly made are, plain and fancy muslins, superfine printing calicoes, quiltings, and counterpanes ; dimities, jeans, cotton shawls, and the gen erality of power-loom productions. The power of the steam- engines used, exceeds that of 2200 horses. A large propor tion of the cotton fabrics manufactured here are bought up by the Manchester manufacturers ; and the principal Bolton manufacturers have warehouses in Manchester, where they generally attend every Tuesday for the sale of their goods. Bleaching is also carried on to a great extent, there being 23 bleaching grounds, some of them very large. More than 10,000,000 pieces of cloth are annually bleached in the parish. In each of the three most extensive establishments, from 130,000 to 150,000 pieces are, on an average, bleached every month. There are 22 iron-foundries and machine- works, some of them on a very extensive scale. They con sume together about 35,000 tons of coal and coke, and use nearly 20,000 tons of metal. Besides these, there are several paper-mills, saw-mills, and chemical works. The whole amount of horse power employed in the different works of Bolton in 1846, was 3816. The abundant and cheap sup ply of coal from the neighbouring collieries, and the advant ages of an extensive inland canal navigation, together with the introduction of railways, have added materially to the prosperity of the place. A canal connects Bolton and Man chester, and has a branch to Bury. The Bolton and Leigh Railway, a branch of the Liverpool and Manchester line, was completed in June 1831. The Bolton and Salford Railway, which, running almost parallel with the Bury and Bolton Canal, establishes a direct line of communication with Man chester, was opened in 1838; a railway to Euxton, a few miles S. of Preston, in 1843 ; and a railway to Darwen and Blackburn, in 1847. The market-days are Monday and BOLTON 440 BOMBAY Thursday ; the former, for general provisions, being the prin cipal. There is likewise a large market on Saturday for butcher meat ; and one for store cattle every alternate Mon day, between January 5 and May 12. Fairs for horned cattle, horses, and cheese, hardware, and toys, are held on April 28, July 30 and 31, and October 13 and 14. The name of Bolton-le-moors or Bolton-on-the-moors, is derived from its situation in the midst of moors ; a portion of which have been brought under cultivation, having been enclosed under an Act passed in 1792. The town received a charter of incorporation in 1838, and is now governed by a mayor, 12 aldermen, a recorder, and 36 councillors. Petty sessions for the borough are held every Monday and Thurs day. By the Reform Act, Bolton returns two members to the House of Commons. The boundaries of the parliament ary borough and the municipal borough are the same. Num ber of electors (1849), 1531. Bolton is the centre of a poor- law union, comprising 26 other townships and chapelries. The parish of Bolton includes, altogether, 12 populous town ships, and six chapelries; area, 31, 390 ac.; pop. (1831), 63,034; in 1841, 73,905. Pop. (1841), Great Bolton, 33,610; Little Bolton, 16,153 ; together, 50,163. It is now (1850) supposed to be about 60,000. (Baines* Lancashire; Parliamentary Papers; Local Correspondent.) BOLTON, five pars. Eng., and one, Scot.: 1, par. Cum berland ; 8760 ac. Pop. 121 1. 2, Bolton (by Bowland], par. York, W. Elding; 4940 ac. Pop. 933. 3. Bolton-upon- Dcarne, par. York, W. Riding; 2390 ac. Pop. 671. 4, Bolton Percy, par. city of York Ainsty ; 7320 ac. Pop. 1040 5, Bolton le-Sands, par. Lancaster; 7630 ac. Pop. 1774. 6, par. Scot. Haddington; 2400 ac. Pop. 341. BOLUS HEAD, a cape, Ireland, co. Kerry, N.W. side of the entrance into Ballynaskelling Bay; lat. 51 48 N.; Ion. 10 15 W. BOLVA, a river, Russia, rises in the N.W. of gov. Kalouga, and, after a S. course, joins the Desna near Briansk. During part of the year it is navigable. BOLY, or GALVOLY, par. Irel. Tipperary ; 1268ac. P. 410. BOMBA, a vil. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Citra, 18 m. W.S.W. Vasto, on the side of Mount Pallano, watered by the Sangro. The parish church is one of the most remarkable and most richly ornamented churches in the province. On the mountain on which the town stands, are soma gigantic ruins, whose history is unknown. BOMBAY (PRESIDENCY or), one of the three presidencies into which British India is divided, situated between lat. 14 and 29 N.; and Ion. 66 and 77 E. It comprehends the districts Ahmednuggur and Poonah in prov. Aurungabad; N. and S. Concan, and Darwar, in prov. Bejapoor ; Ahmeda- bad, Baroach, Kaira, and Surat, in prov. Goojerat ; the island of Bombay, Candeish, and Scinde, recently added. The sur face is irregular, presenting the diversities of low barren hills, mountainous tracts, valleys, and elevated table-lands. The mountains comprise a large portion of the W. Ghaut range, which line the whole W. coast of peninsular Hindoostan, the Santpoora chain, the W. portion of the Vindhya chain, and further N. the Aravulli chain. E. of the latter lies the table land of Malwa, having an average height of 1 600 ft. above sea level, and of which two-thirds are in the presidency of Bombay. The principal rivers are the Nerbudda and Tapty, both falling into the Gulf of Cambay, but there are several other considerable streams that have their sources only in the presidency, such as the Godavery and Kishna, which fall into the Bay of Bengal. The valleys are remarkably fertile, and many parts of the presidency are in a high state of culti vation, although there is still much waste land, particularly in Surat. The roads, also, are so exceedingly bad, as seri ously to affect the development of its resources, and, conjoined with the absence of navigable rivers, to limit greatly its internal traffic. So detrimental to the interests of the country have these evils been found, particularly the former, that in 1850, the merchants and bankers of the city of Bombay pre sented a memorial to the Governor-general of India, stating that so miserably inadequate are the means of communica tion with the interior, that many valuable articles of produce are, for want of carriage and a market, often left to perish in the fields, while the cost of those that do find their way to Bombay is enormously enhanced, to the extent sometimes of 200 per cent.; considerable quantities never reach their des tination at all, and the quality of the remainder is almost universally deteriorated. It appears further, that in conse quence of this wretched state of the roads in the presidency, of the vast numbers of sheep fed in Candeish and the Deccan, which are sent down to the Bombay market, not one-third reach the city alive, and those greatly reduced in flesh. A railway, however, has recently been commenced at Bombay (which see), which may be the precursor of a better state of things, as regards internal communication. Climate and Vegetable Productions. The climate of the presidency is various ; in some parts, such as Bombay and its immediate vicinity, it is exceedingly unhealthy, liver com plaint being more frequent and fatal there than in any other part of India. In other places, again, such as Poonah, which is only about 80 m. distant from the city of Bombay, and lies in an elevated situation, the climate is so favourable to Euro peans that the ratio of mortality amongst the British troops stationed there, has not much exceeded that of the Foot Guards in England. These extraordinary differences in the salubrity of adjoining districts, are now carefully attended to by the Bombay Government in the distribution of the European troops, by which means a great saving of life has been effected. The principal vegetable productions are cotton, rice, dates, and cocoa palins. In the N. parts, a great abundance and variety of fruit is produced, and in S. Concan, and the central districts, large quantities of rice are grown. Cotton also is cultivated to a great extent, particularly in Baroach, and is the best raised in India. It is brought from Baroach to Bom bay in half-screwed bales. Sugar and indigo are grown in Candeish, the latter of a superior quality, but considered rather light in the colour. Animals. These are such as are met with generally through out India elephants, tigers, panthers, leopards, hyenas, buf faloes, wild boars, deer, antelopes, and jackals. Snakes abound, and many of them of the most venomous description, includ ing the whip snake, and the cobra da capello. Birds are numerous, and of great variety. Government, &c. The government of the presidency is vested in a governor, subject to the authority of the Governor- general of India, but independent of all other local control. He is assisted by three councillors, with several secretaries, and various officers of state. The law department is presided over by a chief, and one puisne judge. Civil justice is administered almost exclusively by native judges, and with remarkable efficiency. In 1844, the number of cases decided by them was 74,067; and of these, 3571 were appealed, or 4-82 per cent.; and of this number, 936 were reversed, or 1-26 per cent. ; that is, not more than 1 -25 cases were reversed in 100 tried, affording strong testimony to the carefulness of the decisions by the native judges. There are at Bombay, as at Calcutta, courts of requests for the recovery of small debts ; the recorders of which are Europeans. The public revenue for 1846 was 2, 647,171. Expenditure, 2,741,231. The expense of maintaining the military force in the presidency, in the same year, amounted to 1,704,852. Church Establishment and Education. Bombay is the see of a bishop, subordinate to the Bishop of Calcutta ; and has also a recognized branch of the Church of Scotland, which annually receives a grant of 1994; and a grant of 826 is also made to the R. Catholics, who are more numerous in this, than in either of the other presidencies. The most numerous body of Christians here are Nestorians. The Government educational institutions in Bombay are under the management of a board of education. This board consists of a president, five members, and a secretary; three of the members are Europeans, one a Parsee, one a Hindoo, and another a Maho metan. A maximum sum of 12,500 is fixed for educational purposes, under the Bombay presidency ; and the board con trol a sum of 2000, constituting the Sanscrit College Fund. The provincial English schools are at Poonah, Tannah, and Surat ; at which the scholars, in 1842, amounted to 174. Of the district vernacular schools in 1842, there were 120, with an attendance of 7750 scholars. There are, besides, a number of village schools. Manufactures, Trade, &c. The principal manufactures are of sugar, indigo, and silks ; a description of the latter, orna mented with gold and silver, is woven at Poonah; but, with exception of these, there are no other manufactures worth mentioning. The internal trade of the presidency, for thu BOMBAY 441 BOMBAY reasons mentioned at the beginning of this article, namely, want of roads and of navigable rivers, is much more limited than it would otherwise be. For an account of the foreign trade, see BOMBAY (Crnr OF). The population of this presid ency, including Scinde, is estimated at about 8,500,000. BOMBAY [Portuguese, Bom-Bahia Good Harbour], a well-known city and seaport, W. coast of the peninsula of Hindoostan, cap. of the presidency of Bombay, and situated on a narrow point of land at the S.E. extremity of the island of the same name; lat. 18 53 42" N. ; Ion. 72 48 E. (n.) ; 660 m. N.W. Madras, and 1050 m. S.W. Calcutta overland, Xufrretuxs 1 CasBa 2 Cathefral SLig 3 HospituL eMajx Course and somewhat more than double that distance by sea. The city is divided into two portions, one lying next to the sea, and surrounded by fortifications ; and situate about 1 m. N.W. the other, called the Black, or Native town. The streets of the former are narrow, without any foot pavement, and in many places choked up with dust. The houses arc three, and sometimes four stories high, and are provided with verandahs, which rise one above the other, and are supported by wooden pillars ; they have also small bow windows, adorned with neat trellis-work. In the lower part of the town are the bazaars, which are narrow and dirty, and are chiefly kept by Parsees, an industrious and singularly intelligent race, of Persian descent, to whom a large portion of the mercantile wealth of Bombay belongs, and who assimilate themselves to Europeans in habits, manners, and mode of living, more than any other race in the East. Between the fort and the nearest part of the native town without, is what is called the esplam used as parade and airing ground, on which no permanent building is allowed to be erected. The European population is accommodated, partly within the fort, in the largest and best-situated houses, but the greater proportion in bungalows, or villas, in various parts of the island ; these are generally large and handsome, with extensive areas, called compounds, in front, and built with careful reference to the climate, ver andahs encircling the rooms of the house. Bombay Castle, the treasury, the Government-offices, and almost all the merchants warehouses and offices, are situated within the You. 1. fort. The principal building is the townhouse, within the fort, and occupying the E. side of the square called the Bombay " en ; it contains many of the Government-offices ; a library, rich in collections, gathered from all parts of Asia, and a pacious saloon, adorned with marble statues of Mountstuart Eiphinstone and Sir John Malcolm. In the centre of the Green itself, is a statue of Lord Wellesley ; and another, to the memory of Lord Cornwallis, stands outside the fort, at what is called the church gate. There are now several Pro testant churches in Bombay: four of the Church of England, one being a cathedral, a handsome building ; one Established Church of Scotland, and one Free Church of Scotland, a graceful structure, with an elegant spire, lately erected, and one American Presbyterian. There are also a great many Portuguese and Armenian churches in the city, several syn agogues, for both white and black Jews, and a great number of Mahometan mosques and Hindoo temples. Bombay is the seat of a Protestant bishop, of English and American missions, and of missions from the Established and Free Church of Scotland. There is also a large K. Catholic popu lation in the city, whose religious establishments enjoy the support of the East India Company. A great portion of the Black, or Native town, is built on a low tract of land, which, in former times, suffered much from inundations, and was, during seven or eight months in the year, an unwholesome swamp. Much has been done of late to remedy this evil, by draining, and the formation of roads and streets, and with some success, although the streets, which are here also most inconveniently narrow, still continue to abound in nuisances ; while, during the rainy season, much sickness and suffering prevail, in consequence of the excessive damp. The houses in Black town are small, built of brick, and two stories in height. The lower stories are kept open as bazaars, in which the dealers sit cross-legged, surrounded by baskets containing piles of merchandise. In the evenings, the scene here is very animated ; the streets and bazaars are lighted up with numer ous small lamps, and crowds of natives throng the stalls, examining the goods, and making purchases. The markets of Bombay, though not equal to those of Calcutta, are well supplied with provisions, mutton, kid, poultry, and fish in abundance, and generally of good quality ; the onions are particularly excellent, and as such, are cele brated all over the coast. The wages of servants here are much higher than in Bengal ; but food is dearer, which is probably the cause ; yet the salaries of the public servants are smaller here than in either of the other two presidencies. The harbour of Bombay is one of the largest and safest in India ; while its scenery, and that of the neighbouring con tinent, presents a rare combination of grandeur and beauty. It is 12 or 14 m. long, with a general width of from 4 to 6 in. It is situated between the islands of Colabah, Bombay, and Salsette on the one hand, and the mainland and islands of Caranjah and Elephanta on the other, and is defended by formidable batteries, particularly strong towards the sea. The usual anchorage is on the W. side of the harbour, off the town of Bombay. The general depths in approaching the former, are from 14 to 8 fathoms. The docks, which are the property of the East India Company, are under the manage ment of Parsees, by whom the shipbuilding is conducted. Two ships of the line can be completely built and equipped in these docks every 18 months, and the slips and basins are calculated for vessels of any size. The ships constructed here include merchant vessels of large dimensions, occasionally frigates, and even ships of the line ; the timber being amply supplied from the neighbouring districts of Malabar and Goojerat. The trade of Bombay is of great extent and importance. The following table shows the value of the imports and ex ports each year, from 1844-5 to 1847-8: Exports Imports. Exports. Imports. 1S44-5 5,126,552 . 3,773 261 I 1846-7... 4. 604,897... 2,701 ,41 7 1845-6... 5,801,780... 3,014,948 | 1847-8... 4,326,796... 2,949,591 Of the imports of 1848, Great Britain furnished to the value of 1,289,757, and took of exports 951,370. China fur nished to the value of 738,434, and took 2,959,169. After these, but to a much smaller extent, stands the trade with the Persian and the Arabian Gulfs; the coast of Africa; the Portu guese possessions in the East ; France, including the isles of 56 BOM-FIM 442 BONA France and Bourbon ; and America. The shipping, inwards and outwards, at Bombay, for the year ending April 30, 1843, was : Vi-sac s. No of Ships. British 328 175,963 French 7 2,191 Portuguese 4 843 American 4 1,398 Arabian G 2,193 Siamese 1 350 350 182,93 Bombay is the chief Indian port connected with the estab lishment of steam navigation between India and this country. In 1837, three steam vessels sailed between Bombay and Suez ; and in 1843, there were eight. There is now a regular trans mission of mails by steam, every fortnight, by way of the Me diterranean and the Red Sea. Steamers ply between Bombay and Point de Galle in Ceylon, where they meet other steamers which proceed to Madras and Calcutta, and also to Canton in China. A railway between Bombay and Tannah, a town and fortress on the island of Salsette, about 25 m. N.N.E. from the former, was commenced on October 31,1850, and is the first rail way begun in India. The ISLAND of Bombay, on which the city is situated, is one of a cluster of islands, and the largest of all, excepting Salsette, with which it has long been con nected towards the N.E. by a mound and arched stone bridge; another connecting mound was formed towards the N.W. a few years ago. It is about 8 m. long from N. to S., and about 3 m. broad, formed by two ranges of rock of unequal length, running parallel to each other on opposite sides of the island ; these ranges are united at the extremities by hills of sandstone, which are only a few feet above the level of the sea. The interior of the island was formerly liable to be overflowed by the sea, which is now prevented by substantial works and embankments, but the lower parts are still covered with water during the rainy monsoon. On the S.W., the island terminates in a rocky peninsula 60 ft. high, called Malabar Point, stretching far into the sea, and forming the \V. side of Back Bay, by which the S. end of the island is hollowed out. It is adorned with a pleasing variety of country seats, interspersed with groves of cocoa-nut trees, and traversed in all directions by good roads. Magnificent views are obtained from this point. The S.E. extremity of the island, again, terminates in a similar, but much longer pro jection, formed, in part, by Old Woman and Colabah islands connected together, and to Bombay, by causeways. This projection, which, by the junction of the islands, appears an entire peninsula, forms the E. side of Back Bay. Here, also, are a number of spacious houses, most of which are sur rounded by small gardens, and overshadowed by mangoes, palms, and tamarinds. At the extremity of this point, which forms the S. entrance point of Bombay harbour, is a light-house. The jurisdic tion of the supreme court is confined to the island of Bombay, and to Europeans in the rest of the presidency ; the civil and criminal laws are those of England. Bombay is, next to Madras, the oldest of our possessions in the East. At present it rules the whole N.W. coast of India. The mean temperature of Bombay is higher than that of Calcutta, but lower than that of Madras, which is 84 Fall., Bombay 82, and Calcutta 79. The population of Bombay has increased tenfold within a century. In 1716, it was estimated at 16,000; in 1816, at 161,550; it is now, according to the census of 1849, upwards of 500,000, composed of British, Portuguese, and Armenians, Jews, Maho metans, Hindoos, and Parsees. (Hamil ton s East India Gaz.; Von Orlich s Tra vels in India; Porter s Progress of the Nation; M Culloch s Account of the British Empire; British Colonial Library ; Historical and Descriptive Account of British India; Horsburgh s East India Directory; The Orien tal Interpreter ; Private Information, Sic.) BOM-FIM, the name of several tns. and vils. Brazil: 1, A small tn.. prov. of, and 95 in. S.E. Goyaz. Once more populous than at present ; the falling off being the result of the exhaustion of the gold washings in the vicinity. 2, A tn., prov. Minas Geraes, 120 m. W. Villa Rica; having a church, and a pop., for town and district, of 3000. 3, A consider able vil., prov. Minas Geraes, 75 m. N. Tejuco or Cidade Diamantina. Pop., vil. and dist., 2000. 4, A suburb of the city of Bahia. There are several other unimportant places of this name. BOM-JARDIM [good garden], a tn. Brazil, prov. Ceara, 30 m. S. Crato, in a fertile valley of the serra Cairiris- Novos. The town is small, but the district extensive ; yielding mandioca, sugar, &c. Pop. 6000. BOM-JESUS [good Jesus], the name of numerous places in Brazil ; all unimportant. Among them are a vil., prov. Pornambuco ; three vils., prov. Bahia ; a par., prov. Matto Grosso ; and an isl., Bay of Rio de Janeiro. BOMMEL, or DE BOMMEL, a vil. Holland, prov. Zeeland, 14 m. E. by S. Brielle, on the Harringvliet. It has a hand some octagonal church, with painted glass windows, and a copper covered steeple. BOMMEL (ZALT). See ZALT-BOMMEL. BOMMELERWARD, an enclosed dist. or isl. Holland, prov. Gelderland. It lies immediately above the meeting of the Waal and the Maas, and is 16 m. long and 6 m. across at its greatest breadth. Besides the town Zalt-Bommel, it con tains 17 villages. The soil is a rich clay, and particularly suited for flax and hops. The pop., of which about two-thirds are Protestant and one-third R. Catholic, is chiefly agricul tural, and amounts to about 15,000. BOMST, a tn. and circle, Prussia, prov. and gov. of Posen. The TOWN lies on the Obra, 10 m. N.E. Zullichau; and has throe churches, a good deal of hop and garden ground, and some vineyards. It has also some manufactories of coarse cloth, and a considerable trade in shoes. Inhabitants, Ger mans, Poles, and Jews, 2250. The CIRCLE, area, 308 geo. sq. in., is flat, and the soil, though light, tolerably fertile. A considerable part of it is in pasture, and feeds great numbers of cattle. Pop. 44,227. BON (CAPE), or RAS IDDAH, a cape, Tunis, on the Medi terranean ; lat. 37 4 48" N.; Ion. 11 3 30" E. (R.) BONA [anc. Hippo fiegius ; Arabic, Bded-el-Anab the town of jujubes], a maritime city, Algeria, prov. of, and 85 m. N.E. Constantine, W. side of the Gulf of Bona; lat. (Lion point) 36 54 30" N.; Ion. 7 46 30" E. (u.) It is built at the foot of a hill which rises to the N. and N.W. of the city, and is surrounded by a wall 30 ft. in height, and nearly 2 m. in circumference, with four gates; and is further defended by a strong fort or citadel on the top of the hill ; and the fortifi cations have been greatly strengthened since the place came into the hands of the French. It is the seat of French judi cial courts. The streets are narrow and crooked, but many BONA, from Fort Usogne. From Derbruftger, Algerie. of the houses substantial and well built. There is a good mar ket, with shops, reading-rooms, coffee-houses, and a theatre. The harbour is now nearly choked up with mud, but there are good landing-places in the vicinity, and the trade of the town is still considerable. Its chief manufactures are of burnooscs, a piece of Arab dress, and other garments; tapestry, and BONABONA 443 BONHILL saddles. Its exports are corn, wool, ox hides, wax, and coral, being the seat of a fishery of the last. In 1842, the exports amounted to 72,526; in 1843, to 95,364; the imports (1842), 247,681 ; (1843), 327,689. The citadel and town were taken, in 1832, by the French, by whom it has been greatly improved. About 1 m. S. the town are the remains of Hippo Eegius, once a residence of the Numidian kings, and the episcopal scat of St. Augustine. Pop. (1838), 5310 ; (1847), 9799. BONABONA. See BORABORA. BONAIRE, also BUEXOS-AYIIES, or BUEJT-AYRE, an isl. W. Indies, off the coast of Venezuela, 27 m. N.E. Curacao, by which it is used as a place of transportation for criminals ; lat. (lighthouse, S. point) 12 2 N. ; Ion. 68 17 W. (u.) It is about 20 m. long by 8 to 10 broad ; of a very irre gular shape, high and hilly, chiefly composed of calcareous deposits, but, in some places, of pure quartz. It is thickly wooded ; the soil is hard and dry, suffering from a deficiency of rain, yet not without excellent pasture. On the S. coast, the land is covered with low knolls, clothed with verdant creepers and cactuses, which yield considerable quantities of cochineal. The chief product is Turkish wheat, constituting the general food of the people ; the hill sides are covered with Brazil and yellow wood, but there are no fruit-bearing trees. The island produces sheep and goats, as also asses, which run wild, and are caught, for sale, by the Government, to Ameri cans and other foreigners. The flamingo frequents the S.E. peninsula ; turtles are caught on the coast. Large quantities of salt are produced ; and lime is procured by burning the corals with brushwood, but the quality is bad, in consequence of its being slaked with sea-water, for want of fresh. The inhabitants, though not rich, are frank and hospitable. The roadstead is on the S.W. side, in a deep exposed bay, where there is a fort ; but vessels can come close up to the shore. Pop. 1348, of whom 112 are whites. BONACCA, or GUANAJA, an isl. Caribbean Sea, Hon duras Bay, 30 m. N. Cape Castilla; lat. 16 28 N.; Ion. 85 55 W. (R.) It is about 9 m. long, and from 1 to 3 broad ; covered with wood, and, towards the centre, attains a height of 1200 ft. BON ATT, a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Citra, 21 m. S. La Sala, near the Gulf of Policastro. Pop. 3300. BONAVISTA, Cape de Verde Islands. See BOAVISTA. BONAVISTA. 1, A bay, E. coast, Newfoundland, N. America, between Cape Freels on the N., and Cape Bona- vista on the S. Its entrance is 35 m. wide ; but the bay is crowded with islands, and the whole coast is extremely rocky and dangerous. 2, A cape, forming the S.E. limit of the above ; lat. 48 42 N. ; Ion. 53 8 W. (it.) It is a bluff bold headland, having a lighthouse, with a revolving light at two minute intervals, alternately red and white, 150 ft. above the level of the sea. 3, A tn., N. America, Newfoundland, 3 m. S.E. the cape, and on the E. coast of bay of same name. It is a large and straggling place, but is surrounded by a good deal of cultivated land, and has, upon the whole, a respectable appearance. The want of a good harbour, or even good shelter for boats, prevents its advancement. BONBON (LAKE). See BATANGAS. BONBY, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 2900 ac. Pop. 380. BONCHURCH, a vil. and par. England, Isle of Wight ; the former picturesquely situated on an elevation, embosomed among trees, and commanding a delightful view of the sea, about 1 m. E. by N. Ventnor. It is much resorted to by in valids on account of its genial climate, and is rapidly rising into importance. Area of par. 150 ac. Pop. (1841), 302. BONDENO, a tn. Papal States, 10 m. W.N.W. Ferrara, at the confluence of the Panaro and Po d Argento. One of the defiles that lead across the Apennines, commences at this place. Pop. 3000. BONDJOL, a strong native fortress, isl. Sumatra, prov. Padang, famed as the first scene of the insurrection of the fanatics, called Padries, in Sumatra, in 1833 ; and that of their last stand, in 1837, when, after much fighting, it fell into the hands of the Dutch. BON DO U, a little-known country, Senegambia, cap. Boulebani ; lat. 14 21 N. ; Ion. 12 30 37" W. ; bounded, N. by Galam, W. by Fouta-Damga, E. by the Faleme (a tributary of the Senegal, which separates it from Bam- bouk), and S. by the Tenda and Wooli countries, close to the Gambia ; extent supposed to be about 97 in. N. to S., and 80 m. E. to W. It is mostly a flat country, with some elevations of no great height, in its N. and central parts; and watered in its E. side by numerous small streams that fall into the Faleme. It is very fertile and well cultivated, producing cotton, millet, maize, indigo, pistacia-nuts, tobacco, c. Vegetation is exuberant, and there are extensive forests, including the baobab, acacia, &c. Iron abounds, but is not worked, and also some gold is obtained. The people have a tolerable stock of horses, cattle, and sheep. Wild beasts are numerous. The Faleme* swarms with crocodiles. The natives are spirited, brave, and (for Africans) industrious; weaving of cotton cloth is carried on to some extent, chiefly of long and narrow slips of cotton, called pagne ; which, besides being made up into garments, serve as a kind of currency. The Bondou people are chiefly Foulahs, but include several tribes ; many of them can read and write Arabic, there being regular schools for teaching that lan guage ; and all, or nearly all, are professed Mahometans ; but the bulk of the people trust in a kind of sorcerers, and are firm believers in the sovereign efficacy of their gris-gris or charms ; some of which are merely written words, taken from the Koran. Nineteen-twentieths of the men of Bondou are in a servile condition ; and not a few are absolute slaves. Among their superiors, the chief are, the sissibehs or relatives of the amamy, or sovereign ; next in order are the imams, or official functionaries ; then come the tamsirs, or judges ; after them the talibas, or learned men. All these come under the general name of marabouts ; and the sovereign himself is a head marabout, or pontiff. He is, in all respects, an absolute prince ; and the office is hereditary, usually passing from brother to brother. His influence is very extensive, and he has a considerable revenue, derived from the produce of land, the sale of slaves, tribute from neighbouring countries, tolls on traffic, and presents from French and English traders. Pop. not certainly known, but estimated by some at 1,500,000. (Raffcnel, Voyage dans I Afrique Occidental^ in 1843-44.) BONGA, a tn., E.Africa, cap. of KafaorKaffa; lat. 7 10 N.; Ion. 37 20 23" E.; represented to be in a richly wooded and fertile country, in some respects resembling Brazil. BONGAY, BANGEY, or BANGAVI, an isl. Indian Archi pelago, E. coast, Celebes, between Peling and Xoola or Sylla ; lat. (S. point) 2 10 S. ; Ion. 123 53 E. (K.) It gives name to a group of about a hundred islets, much resorted to for slaves and wood. BONGO, a small isl. Philippines, Illana Bay, isl. Min danao, opposite the river and town of that name; lat. 7 15 N. ; Ion. 124 15 E. Nearly opposite, also, is a well-known watering-place, called Pollock Bay, or Cove, where good anchorage is to be had ; but the treacherous disposition of the inhabitants render it dangerous to land, unless every precaution is used. BONGOOS, a tn. on a bay of same name, W. coast, isl. Sumatra, a few m. S. the town of Padang. It consists of 80 to 100 bamboo houses, inhabited chiefly by fishermen. The large quantities they daily take, are immediately bought up for the most part, by inland dealers, who dry the fish for future sale. The bay is small, and expanding reefs and shoals make it dangerous for large vessels. BONHILL, a vil. and par. Scotland, co. Dumbarton. The VILLAGE is beautifully situated in the valley of the Leven, about 4 m. from its junction with the Clyde, 3 m. N. Dum barton. It has one principal street, and two smaller ; houses generally well built, of a reddish-coloured stone, obtained in the neighbourhood, and roofed with slate ; well supplied with water from the Leven, and the houses, but not the streets, lighted with gas. There are three churches in the village the parish church, a neat and handsome structure ; the Free church, a U. Presbyterian church, and four schools, one of which is liberally endowed by the proprietors of one of the printworks in the vicinity, not only for their own work people, but for the public generally. There are three public libraries, one of which is in connection with a mechanics institute. The inhabitants are nearly all employed in the ex tensive printworks in the vicinity, in one of which 17,000,000 yards of cambrics, gauzes, de laines, &c., are printed and finished annually. The PARISH is about 4J m. in length, and 4 in breadth. Pop. of par. (1841), 6682 j of vil. 2041. [Local Correspondent.) BONI 444 BONNY BONT, or BONY [called by the inhabitants Sewa], a terri tory S.W. peninsula of isl. Celebes, W. side gulf of same name, N. of Boolookamba, about 80 m. in length, and stretch ing from a half to two-thirds across the peninsula. The N. part is beautiful and fertile, producing rice, sago, and cassia. The inhabitants excel in the working of gold, iron, and cotton, in which they trade with the whole Archipelago. The ancient institutions of Boni, whose first prince is believed by the people to have come from heaven, are remarkable for their near approach to constitutional monarchy, and its annals, from the commencement of authentic history, are highly interesting. Its first King gave the country settled laws, and appointed seven elective lords to assist the Crown in administering the government. AYomen, as well as men, might form part of this chosen council, which had to be consulted on all matters of public importance, and especially about the settlement of the crown, and the making of peace and war. When a crime was committed, the culprit was denounced to the King, who called upon the grandees to try the accused ; and, when judg ment was pronounced, if the sentence was capital, the Prince gave a wink, and instantly the criminal was dragged out and stabbed to death. If there were aggravating circumstances, the King commanded him to be bound to a tree, and his body to be pricked all over with the points of krises, and then be smeared with syrup, on which the ants immediately attacked him, and he expired under the direst tortures. The Dutch East India Company having repeatedly assisted the Boni people against their enemies, is said to have made them over- powerful and haughty. When the British took Celebes in 1811, they offended the Bonese by prohibiting the slave- trade, and on being refused indemnity for injuries done to British commerce, were attacked by General Nightingale, who took and plundered their capital. This only produced exasperation, and was followed by some British ships being attacked, and their crews sold into slavery. Hence another expedition against them in 1814, when their King was slain. The Dutch returned to a milder policy, and succeeded in re establishing friendly relations in 1838, though not until after considerable bloodshed, caused by the obstinacy of the Bonese in claiming a supremacy over all other principalities in Celebes. Pop. 200,000. The BAY, or GULF, is formed between the S.E. and S.W. peninsula of Celebes, and is about 180 geo. m. long, by about 120 broad at the mouth, narrowing to 45 at the upper end. It has numerous shoals, and its navigation is intricate. BONIFACCIO [Latin, Bonifacium], a seaport tn. Cor sica, 45 m. S.S.E. Ajaccio ; on the Strait of Bonifaccio, which separates Corsica from Sardinia ; lat. 41 23 48" N. ; Ion. 9 9 15" E. (R.) It stands on a peninsula, about 1 80 ft. above the sea ; is well built, and tolerably well fortified, and con tains several handsome churches. The port is good, but difficult of access, on account of its narrow entrance. The town has a court of commerce, and exports wine and oil. The coral fishery is carried on here. In the neighbourhood are curious marine grottoes and granite quarries, in which may still be seen huge blocks and pillars left half finished by the Eomans. Pop. 3120. The STRAIT of Bonifaccio is 7 m. broad, and contains several small islands, on one of which is an ancient pillar, 19 ft. high. BONIFATI, a tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Citra, 3 m. S.E. Belvedere. It has several churches and a convent. Silk is produced to a large extent in the district. Pop. 2670. BONIN, or ARZOBISPO ISLANDS, several groups of islands, N. Pacific Ocean, extending from lat. 27 44 30" to 26 30 N. The N.W. island of the most N. cluster, called Parry Group, is in lat 27 43 30" N.; Ion. 142 8 E.; the cluster consists of small isles, pointed rocks, and very irregular bottom. The largest of the chain is Peel Island, on the AV. side of which is a good harbour, called Port Lloyd, in lat. 27 5 30" N.; Ion. 142 11 30"E.; nearly surrounded by hills, crowned with palm-trees. Almost every valley has a stream of water. Green turtle abound in the sandy bays. Sharks are numerous, and fish of several kinds plentiful. BONMAHON, or BUNMAHON, a maritime vil. Ireland, co. of, and 14 m. S.AV. AVaterford, on St. George s Channel, at the mouth of the Mahon, from which it takes its name. It has a fine beach, and numerous respectable lodging-houses, and is a place of great resort during the summer mouths for sea-bathing. Near it are lead and copper mines, which have been occasion ally worked to some extent. Pop. 1771. BONN [Latin, Bonna ad Ilhenum}, a tn. Prussia, prov. Rhine, pleasantly situated on a gentle acclivity, 1. bank, Rhine, about 16 m. S.E. Cologne, having a very pleasing and cheerful appearance; encircled with walls, and surrounded with beautiful gardens. The streets are narrow, and indif ferently lighted, and the air often bleak and cold ; yet, from its delightful situation, it is one of the most desirable places of residence on the Rhine. It comprises about 1200 houses, 36 public buildings, eight churches and chapels, with a number of mills and manufactories, the chief of which are of cottons, silks, and sulphuric acid. Bonn enjoys the reputation of a high antiquity, but derives its greatest celebrity from its university, which has had many distinguished men amongst its professors ; among others, Schlegel and Niebuhr, the his torians. The number of students attending it is generally between 600 and 800. In 1844 the number was 714, of whom 196 were students of theology (76 Protestant, and 120 R. Catholic), 232 of law, 103 of medicine, and 120 of philo sophy. The building of the university is an immense pile, and was formerly the residence of the electors of Cologne. It has a library of about 100,000 volumes. The principal square in the town is called Minster Square, a fine area planted with trees, and which derives its name from the Minster, or church of St. Cassius, an ancient Gothic structure. The townhall is the handsomest of the modern public edifices. In the vicinity, at Poppelsdorf, are an extensive botanic garden, an agricultural school, museum of natural history, with 200,000 specimens of minerals, and 10,000 petrifactions, besides a large collection of zoology and plants. Amongst the scientific associations of Bonn is an academy of naturalists, called the Leopold-Caroline Academy, which has extensive collections. There are five elementary schools in the town, and a free school for the education of poor children. Beethoven, the celebrated musician, was a native of Bonn, having been born there on Dec. 17, 1770. Prince Albert was a student here. Bonn has ample means of conveyance by the railway from Cologne, which was opened in 1844, and passes the town ; and the numerous steamboats which ply on the Rhine. Pop. 14,369. The CIRCLE, area, 80 geo. sq. m., is level, well wooded, well watered, and fertile, producing in abundance corn of all kinds, flax, tobacco, and wine. Pop. (mostly R. Catholic), 50,000. BONNETABLE, a tn. France, dep. Sarthe, 12 m. S. Mamers, consisting of two principal parallel streets, joined by numerous smaller ones. The old Gothic castle is one of the best preserved monuments of the feudal times now to be found in the kingdom. In one of its halls are curious wooden sculptures, with figures of the lords of Bonuetable. The manufactures consist of calicoes, bombazines, and cotton handkerchiefs ; and the trade in grain, grass-seeds, fruit, and cattle is considerable. Pop. 3247. BONNEVAL, a tn. France, dep. Eure-et-Loire, 9 m. N.N.E. Chateaudun ; formerly fortified, but nearly demolished by Henry V. of England, while besieging Orleans, and rebuilt by the successors of Charles VII. The parish church has a singular spire, of great height. There are here some spinning- mills, and extensive tanneries ; and flannels, blankets, calicoes, and printed goods are made. Trade : in agricultural pro duce. Pop. 1780. BONNEV1LLE [anc. Burgum Castn], a tn. Sardinian States, Savoy, cap. prov. Faucigny ; on the Arve, near the junction of the Borne, 16 m. E.S.E. Geneva. It is well built, and contains a college and a handsome townhouse. The river is crossed by a good stone bridge ; and near it is a statue lately erected to King Carlo Felice, and placed on a column 90 ft. high. A fine hard pavement is extensively quarried in the neighbourhood. Pop. 1500. BONNIEUX, a tn. France, dep. Vaucluse, 6 m. S.W. Apt, formerly surrounded by strong walls. About 2J m. from it is a Roman bridge of three arches, in a state of perfect preservation ; supposed to have been built by the Emperor Julian. Pop. 1256. BONNINGTON, par. Eng. Kent ; 4310 ac. Pop. 155. BONNY. 1, A river, AV. Africa, Upper Guinea, forming one of the mouths of the Niger, and falling, with the New Calabar, into the Bight of Biafra, its E. point, according to Boteler. being in lat. 4 23 42" N. ; Ion. 7 5 29" E. It can BONOA 415 BOOM be entered at any time of the tide by vessels drawing 18 ft. water; is deep inside the bar, and affords safe anchorage at all times of the year. Its banks are low and swampy. Large quantities of palm-oil are exported from this river; and it has long been notorious for the extent to which the slave-trade has been carried on along its banks. 2, A to., on a narrow and deep creek of the above river. Al though the residence of the King, it consists merely of a collection of huts, differing much in quality, size, and style of building, but strongly resembling English cottages in shape. They are composed chiefly of stakes, plastered with mud, roofed witli palm-leaves, and all extremely dirty, not excepting the King s dwelling. The inhabitants are remark ably superstitious ; and great numbers of them die annually of dysentery and jungle fever, occasioned by the marshy and unwholesome situation of the town. BONOA, or BENOA, an isl. Indian Archipelago, Moluccas, 8 m. from the N.W. end of isl. Ceram ; lat. (S.W. point) 3 3 S. ; Ion. 127 57 E. (R.) It is about 12 m. long, and 10 m. broad; very hilly, and so stony towards the W. that it is not all in habited. It was once a noted haunt of piratical Malays, but the inhabitants now devote themselves to fishing and tillage. There was formerly a Dutch establishment on the island for extirpating clove- trees. THE POR . BONORVA, atn., isl. Sardinia, Alghero, 17 m. N.E. Bosa, on the declivity of a mountain. It has two mon asteries, and a breeding stud of horses. Pop. 4274. BONSALL, par. Eng. Derby; 2750 ac. Pop. 1496. BONTHAIN, or BONTEIN, the W. part of the territory Boolekomba-and-Bonthain, with town of same name, in the S.W. peninsula of the isl. Celebes. The country is beautiful, abounding in rice, timber, and fruits, and swarming with wild boars. It has been twice conquered by the Dutch, and by the Bongay contract was left in their possession. See BOO LEKOMBA-AND-BONTHAIN. The TOWN lies in a bay of same name, 35 m. S.S.E. Macassar; lat. 5 30 S.; Ion. 120 E. About 2 m. off there is good anchorage, in 7 or 8 fathoms, sandy bottom. BONV1LSTON, par., S. Wales, Glamorgan. Pop. 282. BONYHAD, or BONHARD, a market tn. Hungary, circle, beyond the Danube, co. Tolna, 21 m. N.E. Funfkirchen; with a R. Catholic church, a Reformed church, an alms-house, and a synagogue. Pop 5340. BOO, or Hoo, a group of islets, between Gilolo and Papua ; lat. T12 S.; Ion. 129 20 E. (L.) BOOAN, or BOUAN, a small isl. Asiatic Archipelago, off the N.E. coast of Borneo; lat. 6 22 N.; Ion. 118 10 E. BOOBY ISLAND, a mere rock, Torres Strait; lat. 10 36 S.; Ion. 141 52 50" E. ; but derives interest from containing a depot of provisions and water, left by men-of- war and other vessels passing, for the use of those who have been wrecked in the strait. It is one-fourth of a mile in dia meter, flat, and about 30 ft. high, the summit being bare por phyry rock. A valley intersects the N.W. side of the island, in which grow a few creepers, some brushwood, and two or three trees of tolerable size, with a peculiar broad green leaf, which gives shelter to some pigeons and quails, in which latter the island abounds, even more than in the bird which gives its name to the locality. Turtle were once found upon this isle, but none are now taken. (Stokes s Australia.) BOODROOM, BOODROUM, or BODRUN. A seaport tn. Asiatic Turkey, pash. Anatolia, 93 m. S. Smyrna; lat. 37 1 21" N. ; Ion. 27 25 18" E. ; beautifully situated on a rising ground at the head of a bay, opposite the island of Cos. The houses are of stone, the streets narrow and dirty, and the bazaars miserable. The harbour is small, but well sheltered; with two to three fathoms water, and convenient dockyards. On a projecting rock on the E. side of the har bour is an ancient fortress, built by the knights of Rhodes, in 1402, and still mounted with cannon. Boodroom is believed to occupy the site of the ancient Halicarnassus, the country of Herodotus ; and the magnificent ruins that abound in the town and vicinity would seem to strengthen the idea. Amongst these are a number of temples, and other buildings, ornamented with cornices and columns, and rows of pedestals, finely sculptured, and of admirable workmanship. On the side of a hill above the town are the remains of an elegant theatre, 280 ft. in diameter, and with 36 rows of marble seats. The seats, and the great part of the proscenium, remain, and the cornices and statuary are but little impaired, although IT AND CASTLE OF BOODROOM.- From Texwr, Description part of the front wall has fallen in. A picturesque church of the earliest Byzantine age stands near the W. extremity of the terrace that overlooks the city. 2, A tn. [anc. Sagalassus] Asiatic Turkey, pash. Anatolia, about 30 m. S.W. Isbarta ; with the remains of seven or eight temples, and numerous other Greek buildings. A picturesque Byzantine church overlooks the city. BOOKARIA, a tn., W. Africa, 100 m. N.N.E. Free Town, Sierra Leone ; lat. 9 38 N.; Ion. 12 31 W. BOOKHAM, two pars. Eng. Surrey:!, Boolcham (Great), 3170 ac. Pop. 963. 2, Bookham (Little), 950 ac. Pop. 237. BOOKIT BARISAN, a chain of mountains, of primitive formation, isl. Sumatra, running along the whole length of the island, from Acheen Head to the Straits of Sunda. BOOLAC. See BOULAC. BOOLEKOMBA, BOOLAKAMBA, or BOOLOOKOMBA, a prov., cap. same name, S.W. peninsula of isl. Celebes. It is now subject to the Government of Macassar, and forms part of the territory called Boolekomba-and-Bonthain. It is the most S.W. portion of the peninsula, about 48 m. long by 20 broad ; and is particularly productive in rice, which is sown here while gathered in Maros, where it is sown when gathered here, although the two provinces are separated only by hills of no great height. It produces much gum also, but has no good timber. Wild animals abound, particularly deer. The people are industrious. The chief river is the Kalekon- gang, on which the town stands, near its mouth. In 1820, the sea rose, in a few moments, from 60 to 80 ft. above its usual height, and again retired, after destroying two villages and many lives. In the W. monsoon, the roadstead is very dangerous for large vessels, though small eraft can find shel ter in the river. The Dutch have a fort here, which was attacked, without success, in 1825, by the Bugis. BOOLEKOMBA-AND-BONTHAiN, a territory, S.W. pen insula, isl. Celebes ; about 48 m. W. to E., and 20 m. N. to S. ; and bounded, N. by the mountains Kindan and Torotea, S. and E. by the sea, and W. by the Tino. The inhabitants are reckoned the most peaceable and best disposed of the subjects of the Dutch in Celebes. Pop. 25,000. BOOLEKOMBA POINT [called also CAPE LASSOA, or BORAK], the S.E. point of the W. peninsula of Celebes; lat. 5 35 S.; Ion. 120 27 E. (R.) BOOLEY, BOOBIE, or BOOBEE, a tn. Benin, near the mouth of the Benin river, 120 m. S.E. Badagray ; lat. 5 40 N. ; Ion. 5 7 E. The caboceer or head governor of the river resides here. There are two other towns close by Fish Town and Salt Town. BOOM, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. Antwerp, at the junction of the Brussels Canal with the Eupel, 12 m. S. BOONDEE 446 BOOSEMPRA Antwerp city. Boom, being admirably situated for trade, is a busy inland port. It contains 50 brick and tile works, six building-yards, many breweries, tanneries, and saltworks; soapworks, roperies, and sailcloth manufactures; numerous oil, saw, and corn mills, fish-stores, woodyards, &c. P. 7464. BOONDEE [anc. Bundi].l,A principality, Hindoostan, prov. Ajmeer, under British protection; bounded, N. by Jey- poor and Oonjara, W. Jajghur, S. and E. Kotah ; area, 2500 sq. m. It was pretty extensive before Kotah and its territory were separated from it. In 1817, more than half the revenues was usurped by Scindia and Holcar, and the peasantry were impoverished by oppres sive exactions; but, in 181 8, the Rajah received a considerable addition of territory, together with the town of Patun, from the British Government. Although small, Boondee is important as the me dium of communication between the N. and S. The inhabitants are of the Kara tribe, which has given birth to many famous men, and, among others, to Kara Singh Hara, one of Aurungzebe s most re nowned generals. 2, A tn. Hindoostan, prov. Ajmeer, cap. of above principality, and residence of the Rajah, on the S. declivity of a long range of hills ; lat. 25 28 N. ; Ion. 75 30 E. It con sists of Old Boondee and New Boondee ; the for mer surrounded by a high stone wall, extending up the acclivity behind it, and connected with the fortifications on the cliff above ; the houses are of stone, and, for the most part, two stories high. The natural situation, antiquity, numerous temples, and magnificent fountains of Boondee, give it a very interesting appearance. For pic turesque effect, its main street is almost unequalled. At its upper extremity stands the palace, a remarkable edifice, built of stone, with turreted windows and battlements, supported partly by the perpendicular rock, and partly by solid piers of masonry, 400 ft. high. At its lower extremity is the great temple, dedicated to Krishna. Old Boondee, which is W. of New Boondee, contains some fine fountains and pagodas, but is in a state of general decay. The passes N. of Boondee are strongly defended, and the scenery around is exceedingly picturesque. (Asiatic Researches.) BOONEV1LLE, a city and post vil., U. States, Missouri, r. bank, Missouri river, 40 in. N.W. Jefferson city. It has a court-house, Methodist church, two academies, and two schools ; two ropewalks, and some trade in cattle and pro visions. Pop. 2581. BOONTING ISLANDS, a group of four small islands, Indian Archipelago, N. of Penang, and of moderate height. The most S. is in lat. 5 45 N.; Ion. 100 20 E. BOORHANPOOR [anc. BarJianpura], a tn. Hindoostan, in the Deocan, prov. Candeish, of which it was the anc. cap., 137 m. S. by E. Oojein, in a plain, r. bank, Tapty, which is fordable during the dry season; lat. 21 19 N.; Ion. 76 18 E. It is one of the largest and best built cities of the Deccan ; most of the houses are of brick, with neat facades, and roofed with tiles. Many of the streets are wide, regular, and paved with stone ; as are also the Raj bazaar and the market-place, an extensive square, the two handsomest places in the town. The most remarkable public edifice is the Jumma Musjeed or mosque, a fine pile of gray stone. Boorhanpoor is sup plied with water by aqueducts 4 m. in length, which distribute it through every street beneath the pavement, whence it is drawn up by means of leathern buckets. A singular sect of Mahometans, named Bohrah, have their head quarters here. They are the chief merchants In this part of Hindoostan, have Arab features, wear the Arab costume, and derive their origin from a disciple of their great prophet. Grapes grow abund antly in the neighbourhood, and are said to be the finest in India. BOORLOS, or BOUKLOS, a lagoon, Lower Egypt, delta of the Nile, separated from the Mediterranean by a narrow strip of land, the W. extremity 5 m. E. Rosetta. Utmost length, 38 m.; average breadth, about 15 m. It is shallow and marshy, and is connected, by canals, with both the Damietta and Rosetta branches of the Nile. BOORO, or BOOROO, an isl. Indian Archipelago, 46 m. W. Amboina ; lat. (Fort Defence, Cajeli Bay) 3 22 36" S. ; Ion. 127 6 15" E. (K.) It is oval shaped, 92 m. long by 58 m. broad, and the third largest of the Moluccas. Its largest bay, that of Cajeli, says Sir Edward Belcher, possesses great advantages over Amboiua, as regards supplies of poultry, eggs, water, and wood. The harbour also is snug and safe, sheltered from the monsoons, and less troubled with the diurnal rains than Amboina ; consequently, better adapted for casual refit, as well as astronomical observations. Viewed from this bay, Booro presents a magnificent panorama. On a shore of the richest verdure, the minarets of the mosques and the bamboo TEMPLES AND HOUSES AT CAJELI BAY. BOORO. houses of the natives are seen through the openings between the trees, or crossing the infinite variety of forms assumed by the rich vegetation of the tropics ; while, behind this beautiful foreground, rise the lofty mountains of the interior, wooded to their very summits. On the E., a succession of rising grounds exhale the odours of plantations of balsams. The N.W. side, on the contrary, presents nothing but vast swamps, partly under water, and swarming with crocodiles. Even the higher grounds are watered by a thousand fresh and generally limpid streams, which meander in all directions, and moisten the turf, covered by the Jussieua tenella, with its beautiful flowers. From the height of its mountains, Booro is seen at a great distance at sea. Mount Dome has an alti tude of 10,400 ft., and Tomahoo, 6528 ft. above the sea level. The island is watered by 125 rivers, large and small, the Abbo, the Boy, the Ila, &c. In the centre of the W. part, a spacious lake, 20 fathoms deep, is fed by mountain streams, and communicates by three rivers with the sea. The interior is difficult of access, and dangerous from the number of ser pents. Booro has a variety of valuable woods. Its myrta- ceae supply the best balsams. It produces, besides many odoriferous flowers and resins ; the sin, a gramineous plant, gives a highly aromatic oil. The wooded marshes are fre quented by large herds of the Sus russa or babyroussa, a kind of hog peculiar to the islands of the Indian Archipelago. The interior of Booro is occupied by Alfoories, reputed to be as mild and pacific as those of Ceram are haughty, quarrelsome, and warlike. They live a frugal life among the hills, feed ing chiefly on sago and what game they kill, .abandoning the coast to the Malays. To their rooted aversion to the visits of Europeans, and the circumstance of the island producing no cloves, we probably owe its being, till very lately, ne glected by the Dutch, although so near Amboina. The popu lation is matter of conjecture, but, by the last estimate, Booro, with some smaller isles, contained 18,000 souls. (Van der Aa ; Temniinck, Coup d ceil.) BOOROOGIRD, BUKUGJKD, or BOOROJERD, a tn. Persia, prov. Irak-ajemi, cap. gov. of same name, 190 in. N.W. Ispa han ; lat. 33 43 N. ; Ion. 48 45 E. ; with a castle and several mosques. It lies in a fertile and well-cultivated valley, yield ing saffron ; belonging to the Lack tribe. Pop. 12,000. BOOSEMPRA, or BOOSUM PRAH, a river, N.W. Africa, kingdom, Ashantee. It is formed by the junction of two streams, which rise in the interior, at the distance of about 100 m. from the coast, and falls into the Atlantic in lat. 4 52 N.; Ion. 1 30 W. It has yet been examined but a short way inland, and, so far as explored, was found to bo IOC BOOTAN 447 BOOTON yards broad, and 4 fathoms deep. The water is quite fresh, and the banks, which are fringed with mangroves, are only 3 or 4 ft. above the stream. There are but 2 ft. on the bar, the difficulties of which for boats, as by these alone it can be attempted, are increased by the enormous rollers that sweep over it. The natives, nevertheless, most adroitly paddle their canoes both in and out of the river. BOOTAN, BHOTAN, BHUTAN, or BUTAN, an independent state, N. Hindoostan; between lat. 26 18 and 28 2 N.; and Ion. 88 32 and about 92 30 E.; bounded, N. by the Hima laya, which divides it from Tibet, S. by Bengal and Assam, and W. by a branch of the Teesta, which separates it from Sikkiin ; the E. boundary is not certainly known ; length, E. to W.,230 m., breadth, N. to S., 120 m.; area, 19,000 sq. m. It is a mountainous country, consisting chiefly of terraces of the Himalaya, of which, on the frontiers of Tibet, it contains some of the loftiest peaks ; that of Chamulari or Chamalari attaining an elevation of 27,200 ft. The country lowers gradually by steps to the Brahmapootra, to the basin of which it wholly belongs, and jiear which, on the frontier of Bengal, is a strip of jungle-covered country, 25 m. broad, forming the only plain in Bootan. The loftier mountains are bare, many of them covered with snow. Lower down, at an elevation of 8000 to 10,000 ft., are fine forests of pine, birch, maple, ash, and yew, but no oak. The hilly tracts, likewise, produce the smaller fruits of Europe blackberries, raspberries, apples, apricots, &c. The valleys are mere water-courses between the hills ; and their vegetation is similar to that of the S. of Europe. In the lower parts, the vegetation is tropical. Iron is the only metal as yet wrought, and good building stone abounds. The chief river is the Tchinchicn, which intersects Bootan from N. to S., traverses the valley of Tassisudon, and, after an impetuous course of about 150 m., falls into the Brahma pootra, below Eangamatty, under the name of the Gadawhar. All the rivers are remarkable for the number of falls in them, and the impetuosity of their courses. In the N. parts, the climate is rigorous ; in the centre ter races, at an elevation of 8000 to 10,000 ft., it is pleasant and healthful ; and in the lower grounds, hot and pestilential. Showers are frequent ; but the heavy falls of rain which accompany the S.W. monsoon in Bengal seldom occur. The wild animals of Bootan are comparatively few in num ber. The elephant, rhinoceros, tiger, and buffalo, are found among the jungle and marshes of the plains; and a monkey of a large and handsome species, held sacred both by Bootans and Hindoos. The only domestic animals are horses, cattle, and hogs. The first consists of a breed called Tangum, indi genous to this part of the world, and usually 13 hands high, of a piebald colour, and fine symmetry ; strong and active, but said to be somewhat headstrong. They are chiefly bred in the valley of the Pa-tchien. Agriculture, Trade, &c. The natives are industrious cul tivators of the soil. Irrigation is extensively employed, and, where the climate is temperate, every part of the mountains which has a favourable aspect and a coating of soil, is cleared, and adapted for cultivation, by being cut into horizontal beds. Eice, wheat, and barley, are the common agricultural products. The culture of vegetables, excepting turnips, which are re markably good, is much neglected, although shallots, cucum bers, gourds, and melons, are grown. Bootan trades with all the neighbouring countries, but chiefly with Tibet and Ben gal, in horses, linen cloth, musk, fly whisks, walnuts, oranges, and Indian madder, exchanged for woollen cloth, cottons, in digo, sandal wood, asafetida, and spices. Part of the articles brought from Bengal are sent to Tibet, with rice, wheat, and flour. Tea, gold, silver, and embroideries are received in exchange. From Cooch-Behar, cattle, hogs, dried fish, tobacco, betel, and coarse cottons, are imported. The chief manufac ture is that of paper, made from the bark of a tree, from which material a fabric like silk and satin is also manufac tured. People. The inhabitants of Bootan are generally Buddhists in religion, and are hardy, vigorous, and tall, with smooth and dark skins, broad faces, and high cheek-bones features prevalent among the Tartars and Chinese. They are not deficient in courage, but are peaceably inclined, and have little skill in the military art. Goitre is a common complaint with those who live near rivers liable to inundations. Woollen cloth is the usual wear, and animal food, tea, and spirits, the common articles of consumption. The houses are usually one story high. The bridges are ingeniously built, some of tim ber, others of iron; of this latter kind, is one across the Tchinchien at Chooka, an admirable structure. The aque ducts are formed of hollowed trunks of trees. No religious forms are observed in marriage ; and both men and women are addicted to polygamy. The dead are burnt, and the ashes thrown into the river. On such occasions, the Gylongs, a sort of priests, officiate. Government. The Dherma Rajah, regarded as an incarna tion of the Divinity, is their ecclesiastical chief a"s well as sovereign. Being a sort of spiritual entity, and of course immortal, he is quite absorbed in the contemplation of his own essence, and leaves the regulation of the affairs of the country to the Deb Eajah, saving only that he appoints one member of the state council, which consists of eight persons, without whose authority the Deb Rajah can do nothing im portant. The passes from the low countries to the mountains are numerous, under the jurisdiction of officers styled soobahs, who live in their respective fortresses, visiting the lower country in the rigour of winter, either to enforce their authority or to invade the neighbouring states. Both the lower hill and the plain country are partitioned into small domains, each having a distinct officer for the collection of the revenue, and the superintendence of the police. The Eajah s revenues are usually paid in articles of produce, and mer chandise. Tassisudon, Wandipore, Poonakha, Ghassa, Paro, and Murichom, are the chief towns. History, &c. In ancient Brahminical legends, Bootan is called Madra ; but little was known about it till 1772, when Cooch Beher was invaded by the Deb Eajah, with whom, how ever, peace was eventually concluded. The boundaries of the country are uncertain ; a regular system of encroachment on the British possessions having been long practised by the natives. In 1816, the advance of the Chinese forces towards Nepaul, excited great alarm at the court of the Deb Eajah, who was induced by his fears of the enemy, and hopes of assistance from the British, to declare himself friendly towards the latter. (Capt. Turner s Embassy to Thibet; Asiatic Re searches.} BOOTEESTOWN, par. and vil. Irel. Dublin; 541 ac. Pop. 3318. BOOTHBY, par. Eng. Lincoln; 2850 ac. Pop. 214. BOOTHBY-PAGNELL, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 2560 ac. Pop. 132. BOOTHIA GULF, a large inland sea, N. of Hudson s Bay, between the island of Boothia Felix and a portion of the continent of N. America on the W., and Melville, Pen and Cockburn Island on the E., between lat. 67 and 72 N. It is about 310 m. in length, N.E. to S.W., with a breadth vary ing from 60 to 1 00 m. The gulf is entered by Prince Eegent s Inlet, off Barrow s Strait, or by Fury and Hecla Strait, from Fox s Channel. BOOTLE, a market tn. and par. England, co. Cumber land. The town, 5 m. S. by E. Eavenglass, has a church, an Independent chapel, and some schools ; and a little trade in corn, pork, bacon, &c. Area of par. G570 ac. Pop. 696. BOOTON, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 1030 ac. Pop. 241. BOOTON, BOUTON, or BATON.!, An isl., strait, and tn., Indian Archipelago. The ISLAND lies off the S.E. peninsula of the island of Celebes ; lat. (S. point) 5 42 S. ; Ion. 122 44 E. (K.) ; 90 in. in length, and varies in breadth from 20 to 40 m. A long narrow strait, to which it gives its name, separ ates it from the island of Moona ; and the large bay of Kalin- soosoo or Dwalbay, lies on the E., presenting a safe anchorage during the W. monsoon. The N. coast is rendered dangerous by a shoal, and the S. by a reef. Booton is hilly, and much wooded. It produces rice, Turkish wheat, sweet potatoes, beans, fruits, sago, spices, among which is the dwarf nutmeg; also, buffaloes and goats, a variety of birds, and edible birds nests. The inhabitants are of Malay origin, and a dark brown, small, ill-looking race. Though haughty and re vengeful, when well treated some are not undeserving of trust. They profess Maliometanism, and manufacture cotton stuffs, and a tissue from the fibres of the aloe. By treaty, the Dutch were long allowed to employ an Extirpator to traverse the island, and destroy the clove and nutmeg trees, for the preposterous purpose of enhancing their monopoly ; but the BOOWANG-BESI 448 BORDEAUX Sultan, by a renewal of the Bongay contract, on improved terms, may now grow spices. Pop. including Pangasani, &c., 300,000. - Tlie TOWN stands on the strait, lat. 4 30 IS. ; Ion. 122 48 E.; is large, and walled round. The houses are of bamboo; the streets straight and narrow. - 2, Two islands, Indian Ocean, N.W. entrance of the Malacca Strait, off the W. coast of the Malay peninsula, from which they are distant about 45 in. They are close together, in about lat. G 34 N.; Ion. 99 17 E. They are both high, and the easternmost is formed of a regular sloping pyramidal moun tain, generally called Bouton Dome, visible from a distance of upwards of 50 m. one island. When seen from the W., they appear as BOO WANG-BEST, OMA, or HAKOOKO, an isl. Indian Archipelago, 1 J m. N.E. isl. Amboina, and about If m. long, and lj m. broad. It is hilly, and the climate reckoned very healthy; yet frightful cutaneous diseases prevail among the natives, and, which is very uncommon in the Indian islands, malformation of the limbs. There are hot springs on the island, resorted to for rheumatism and gout. Many tropical fruits and vegetables thrive in the gardens. The inhabitants on the S. side profess Christianity ; those on the N. Mahomet- anism. The Dutch have possessed the island since 1627. Pop. 4000. BOPAL. See BHOPAUL. BOPPART, or BOPPARD, an anc. tn. Prussia, prov. Rhine, 1. bank of that river, where it is joined by the Konigs- bach, 9 m. S. Coblenz. The houses arc mostly of wood, and the streets narrow, ill paved, dark, and dirty. It has several large worsted and cotton factories ; considerable manufactures of linen, hosiery, tobacco-pipes, and leather; and numerous mills. Pop. 3654. BORABOKA, BOLABOLA, or BONABONA, one of the Society Islands, S. Pacific Ocean; lat. 16 30 S. ; Ion. 151 45 30" W. (R.) It is about 21 m. in circumference, and presents a singularly picturesque appearance) from the sea. TIIK ISLAND Oi EOEABORA F Duperrey, Voyage atourdu Monde. from which it rises abruptly in the form of a lofty double- peaked mountain, the highest summit of which, called Piton, attains an elevation of 1095 feet. The sudden ascent of the land from the sea is, however, more apparent than real, there being a considerable margin of level ground next the water, which is fertile, and covered with cocoa palms, and bread fruit trees. Borabora is in an atol or lagoon, being sur rounded by a chaplet or ring of coral ; the water within which, as usual in such cases, is remarkably pure and limpid. The island abounds with albatrosses, several kinds of petrel, and other birds, including woodpeckers, and small perroquets of rich and splendid plumage. Domestic fowls also are numer ous, and were found on this, and the adjoining islands, when first visited by Europeans. Captain Cook in July 1769. Pop. 1800. Borabora was discovered by >^r* 1 QAA BORAS, a tn. Sweden, Wernersborgs or Elfsborgs, Ian on the Wiske-an, 35 m. E. Gbteborg or Gottenburg, sur rounded by mountains and forests, and in an unfertile district. It is regularly built, is the centre of some local trade ; and in and around the town, spinning, weaving, and working in timber are carried on. The most important works are the dyeworks. In the vicinity is a mineral well. The town was founded by Gustavus Adolplius, in 1632. Pop. 2328. BORBA, a tn. Portugal, prov. Alemtejo, dist. of, and 19 m. W.S.W. Elbas. It is surrounded with walls, and has an old castle, two churches, three monasteries, an hospital, and a poorhouse. Its annual fair is of some importance. Pop. 2636. BORBA, a poor old tn. Brazil, prov. Para, advantageously situated on an eminence, r. bank, Madeira, about 70 in. above its embouchure in the Amazon ; lat. 4 22 S. ; Ion. 59 30 W. It has a church, and is a resting-place for the canoes navi gating the Madeira. Tobacco and cacao are cultivated in the vicinity to a considerable extent, for export. The inhabitants live much on the flesh of the tortoise, which is here abundant. BORBOREMA, a mountain-range, Brazil, forming the S. boundary of prov. Ceara, and trending N.W. to the sea, through prov. Eio-Grande-do-Norte. In general it is well wooded, presents a vigorous vegetation, and, from its con siderable height, has a low temperature. BORCETTE. See BURTSCHEID.* BORCULO, or BORKELO, a small tn. Holland, prov. Gelderland, 15 m. E. Zutphen, on the Berkel. It derives its importance from the royal stud kept at the old castle of Bor- culo, the lordship of which was bought by William V., Prince of Orange, from Prince Adam Czartorinski, in 1777. A stud of above 100 of the finest horses and mares is kept on the grounds, and has greatly contributed to the improvement of the breed in Holland. The district round Borculo is purely agricultural ; eight-ninths of the inhabitants Reformed, one- ninth E. Catholics. Pop. of tn. and par. 3750. BORCUM. See BORKHUM. BORDEAUX [anc. Burdigala], an important commer cial and maritime city, France, cap. dep. Gironde, and of the llth military division of the kingdom, 284m. S.W. Paris; lat. 44 50 18" N.; Ion. 34 30" W. (R.) ; 1. bank, Garonne, 57 m. from its mouth. The approach to it by the Paris road from the E. is very striking. The road winds round the shoulder of a hill, consisting of gently terraced slopes ; and on reaching its foot, leads, by a straight avenue 2 m. long, to a magni ficent stone bridge of 17 arches, which spans the Garonne, and was erected in 1821, at an ex pense of 260,000. This bridge furnishes perhaps the finest view of the city, which is built in a crescent form, along the bend of the river, lined with magni ficent quays for more than 3m., while Gothic towers and antique spires rise behind, and form the most conspicuous objects in the background. Bordeaux consists of an old and a new town, the boundary between them being formed by the Rue de Chapeau Rouge, a wide and handsome street, which, commencing at the quay near the centre of the crescent at the Bourse, stretches across the city E. to W. The old town, lying to the S. of this street, is chiefly composed of irregular squares, and narrow, crooked streets, with houses which, though sub stantially built of hewn stone, are mean and ugly. In this respect they present a striking contrast to the new town, which is laid out with great regularity, and on a scale of magnificence not surpassed by any provincial town in Europe. The streets, squares, and avenues are of the most splendid description, and, in particular, the Faubourg des Chartrons in the N.E., is composed of edifices which at once indicate the good taste and great wealth of their inhabitants. The objects chiefly deserving of notice in the old town are the triumphal arch, called Porte de Bourgogne, placed at the extremity of the bridge, and forming the principal entrance to the town ; the cathedral, a fine Gothic edifice, said to date from the ninth century, but destroyed by the Normans, and rebuilt in the 13th century by the English, who are said to have given it its two elegant spires, 150 ft. high ; St. Michael s Church, in the line of the bridge, distinguished by its lofty BORDEAUX 449 BOEDWELL detached tower, superb front of florid, Gothic, and rose window, framed w ithin a richly decorated arch ; the church of St. Croix, at the S. extremity of the town, a specimen of gorgeous Romanesque, witli rows of curious bas-reliefs, and elaborately carved mouldings; the Bourse or exchange, and custom house, both on the quay, not far from the Rue de Chapeau Rouge; the Hotel de Ville, once the residence of the Arch bishops of Bordeaux; and, in its neighbourhood, the Palais 1. Cathedral. 5. Custom-house. 9. Hotel dc Ville. b. Place n.iupMiie. igghSS 8. Palais de Justice. 11. Porte and Place Ue Boureoan. . a. Pluce Philippe I. d. Place liov.lr. f. PtaceU^Aci mtilii 1 : de Justice. The new town is not so rich in public buildings. The most conspicuous are the library (containing about 130,000 volumes), the museum, and the theatre, the latter regarded as the handsomest edifice in Bordeaux, a Grecian structure, with a Corinthian portico of 12 arches, finely situated in an open space on the N. side of the Chapeau Rouge. Among the beneficent establishments, the first place is due to the grand hospital or infirmary, which occupies the highest site in the town, is admirably arranged, and can accommodate above 700 patients. Few cities are so well supplied with extensive and finely planted promenades. Among others may be named those of the Place originally called Louis XVI., and subsequently Philippe IV., Tourny, d Albret, and the Jardin Publique. Bordeaux is the seat of a royal court of appeal for the de partments of Gironde, Charente, and Dordogne ; of courts of first resort, and of commerce ; and has an academy, faculty of theology, of letters, and of sciences ; a theological seminary, secondary school of medicine, royal college, school of hydro graphy and navigation (first class) ; school of painting and de sign, botanic garden, observatory, chamber of commerce, and bank, founded in 1818. There are consuls resident here from all the States of Europe, and from the States of America. Bordeaux is also the seat of an archbishopric, of which the diocese comprehends the department of Gironde, and is me tropolitari to the sees of Agen, Angouleme, Poitiers, Peri- gueux, La Rochelle, and Lit9on. The position of Bordeaux on the Garonne gives it admirable facilities for trade, and enables it to rank as the second sea port of the kingdom. The river, opposite to the town, is 2000 ft. wide, and deep enough to float vessels of 1200 tons. Up to the bridge its noble quays are lined, and its channel almost covered, with shipping. Besides the immediate access to the sea by the river, Bordeaux has the advantage of a direct communication with the Mediterranean by the canal of Lan- guedoc, and is thereby enabled to supply the S. of France with colonial produce as cheaply as Marseilles. The only railway Bordeaux yet possesses is a short line to Teste, on the coast. Another, to connect it with Tours, and thereby with Paris, is in course of construction. The chief exports are, wine (to the extent, annually, of nearly 80,000 pipes), VOL. I. brandy, and fruit. In addition to the articles already men tioned, the trade includes grain, hemp, flax, tar, rosin, tur pentine, oil, soap, leather, ironware, cotton twist, and cotton and linen goods, timber, &c. In 1846, the number of vessels which entered the port was 918; tonn. 143,228; cleared, 727; tonn. 134,542. In 1843, 48 vessels (tonn. 6637) were engaged in the cod-fishery; but, in 1846, they had fallen off to 11 ; tonn. 847. The whale-fishery, at one time carried on here to a considerable extent, seems to be altogether abandoned. The value of goods placed in bond, in 1846, was 2,108,903; taken out, 2,268,492. The number of vessels belonging to the port in same year, was 374 ; tonn. 60,980. Though Bordeaux depends chiefly on its commerce, it is by no means destitute of manufactures. These include woollen, linen, and cotton goods, gloves, hosiery, soap, chemicals, tobac- co,and cordage ; but perhaps the most important of all is shipbuilding, for carrying on which admirable yards have been provided. Bordeaux is mentioned by Strabo and Ptolemy, under the name of Burdigala, and the Romans made it the capital of the second Aquitania. Ausonius, the Latin poet, has left a description of it as it appeared in the fourth century, after which, it suffered from the numer ous tribes who ravaged the S. of Eu rope towards the decline of the Roman empire. In 1132, it passed into the hands of the English by the marriage of Eleanor of Guienne, with Henry, Duke of Normandy, afterwards King of Eng land, and remained in their possession till it was taken from them in 1451. At that period the Bordelais were much more attached to England than to France, and were so averse to the change, that they revolted the following year, although without success. In 1548, Henry II., who had recently come to the throne, having resolved to take ven geance on the town, for some disturbance which had taken place in it, despatched an army, under the command of Duke de Montmorency, who has rendered his name infamous by the cruelties he committed. A Bordelais was hanged at every tenth house, and the municipal authorities were executed in the public square. In modern times, Bordeaux has been rather attached to the Bourbon interest. Eighteen councils have been held at it. The Latin poet, Ausonius, was a native of Bordeaux, as were also Edward the Black Prince, and his son Richard II., Pope Clement, and the celebrated painter Carle Vernet. Pop. 120,203. BOKDEL AIS, a dist. France, which formed part of prov. Guienne, and had Bordeaux for its capital. It now forms almost the whole of dep. Gironde, and part of dep. Landes. BORDEN, par. Eng. Kent ; 2010 ac. Pop. 860. BORDENTOWN, a tn., U. States, New Jersey, co. Bur lington, 1. bank, Delaware, 26 m. N.E. Philadelphia, and on the railway to New York ; built on a plain, 65 ft. above the level of the river ; is a cleanly and healthy town ; and was the place of residence, during his stay in America, of Joseph Bonaparte, who erected here a splendid mansion, surrounded by extensive and highly ornamented grounds. It is a favourite resort of the people of Philadelphia in the summer season. Pop. 1800. BORDESHOLM [formerly Bardeslwlm], a vil. Denmark, Holstein, cap. bail., and on a lake of same name ; and also on the railway between Altona and Kiel, and llm. S.S.W. the latter town. It contains a large church, which once belonged to a monastery of Augustines, and was built in 1332. The BAILIWICK has an area of 64 geo. sq. m. and is traversed by the Eider, which divides it into two nearly equal parts. Pop. of vil. 433; of bail. 8820. BORDOE, one of the Faroe Islands, belonging to Den mark. It belongs to the Norderbe group, which contains six inhabited islands. Pop. 300. BORDWELL, par. Irel. Queen s co. ; 2805 ac. Pop. 957. 67 BOKEE 450 EORJA BOREE, a large fortified tn. Afghanistan, prov. Sewestan, on the route called the Boree Pass, leading from Dera Ghazee Khan to Kandahar and Ghuznee; lat. 31 N.; Ion. 69 10 E. ; 185 m. S.S.E. Ghuznee. The country around is fertile, well cultivated, and has a dense population, almost exclusively agricultural. BOREEL, or FRIAR ISLANDS, a group of small islets, S.E. coast, Van Diemen s Land, off the most S. point of Brune Island; lat. 43 32 S.; Ion. 147 21 E. (R.) BOREHAM, par. Eng. Essex; 3820 ac. Pop. 1054. BORERAY. 1, A fertile isl. Scotland, Hebrides, N. from North Uist ; length, 1 J m. : breadth, about half a mile. 2, An islet, Scotland, Hebrides; about 2 m. N. St. Kilda. BORG (TEH), BUKG, or TER-BUKG, a tn. Holland, prov. Gelderland, on the Old Ijssel, 9 m. S.E. Zutphen. It is open, and beautifully situated amid woods, and has a Reformed and a R. Catholic church, and a school. The inhabitants, though chiefly agricultural, have a little trade, and an iron- foundry. At one time there was much traffic through Ter- Burg to and from Germany, but the badness of the roads has diverted it to other places. Pop. 700. BORGA, a seaport tn. Finnish Russia, dist. Nyland, 82 m. N.N.E. Revel, on the Borga-A, near where it falls into the Gulf of Finland; lat. 60 22 N.; Ion. 25 45 E. It has miserable houses, crooked streets, and is the seat of a Lutheran bishop, and chief place of one of the two eparchies of Finland. It possesses a stone cathedral, a wood en church, a gymnasium, and small public library; and has some manufactures of linens and woollens ; but its harbour is bad, and its trade insignifi cant. Pop. 2500, nearly all Swedes. BORGEXTREICH, a tn. Prussia, Westphalia, gov. Minden, circle of, and about 7 m. N.E. Warburg. It con tains a R. Catholic parish church, and a synagogue. The inhabitants live chiefly by agriculture. Pop. 1733. BORGERHOUT, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. Antwerp, on the high road from Antwerp to Turnhout ; with bleach- fields, dyeworks, and corn mills. Pop. 4491. BORGHETTO, a tn. and com. Austrian Italy, prov. of, and 7 m. S. Lodi ; on the streamlet Silero, 2 m. from its junction with the Lambro. An annual cattle-fair is held here in August. Pop. 4837. BORGHOLM, a tn. Sweden, isl. Oland, and the only one on it. It has a good harbour for coasters ; was founded in 1817; and is increasing. Pop. 320. BORGIA, a tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Ultra, 6 m. S.W. Catanzaro; almost entirely destroyed by an earthquake in 1783, and rebuilt nearly on its former site by Ferdinand IV. It has a parish church, and wine and silk of good quality are produced in the neighbourhood. Pop. 3497. BORGNE BAY, or GULF, U. States, Louisiana, con nects with the Gulf of Mexico by Pascagoula Sound, and on the N.W. with Lake Pontchartrain. It is about 40 m. long, and 15 broad. BORGO, with various affixes, the name of numerous towns, Italy: 1, Boryo Forte, a tn. Austrian Italy, cap. dist. of same name, prov. of, and 9 in. S.S.W. Mantua, 1. bank, Po, defended by a citadel, now ruinous. Pop. 3186.- The DISTRICT, much exposed to the inundations of the Po, is marshy and unhealthy. Pop. 7353. 2, Borgo Franco, a tn. and com. Austrian Italy, prov. of, and 24 m. S.E. Mantua, r. bank, Po. The vicinity is marshy. Pop. 2000. 3, Borgo Lanezzano, a tn. and com. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 9 m. S.E. Novara, on the Arbogna. Silkworms are reared to a large extent in the vicinity, and the town has several silk spinning-milis. Two annual fairs are held. Pop. 4000. 4, Boryo Franco, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 3 m. N.N. W. Ivrea, near 1. bank, Doire. Fine grain and fruits are produced here. Pop. 1800. 5, Borgo Manero, a tn. and com. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 17 m. N.N.W. Novara, on the Gogna. It has a college, hospital, and several convents. Pop. 6000. 6, Borgo Sesia, a tn. and com. Sardinian States, prov. Val-de-Sesia, 1. bank, river of same name; with manu factures of silk. Pop. 2384. 7, Borgo-san-Dalmazzo, a tn. and com. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 5 m. S.W. Cuneo. It has an ancient Benedictine abbey, and a tolerably active commerce. In the neighbourhood are iron and copper works, and grain and fruits are grown. Pop. 3000. 8, Borgo-san- Donnino, a small city, duchy of Parma, cap. dist. of same name, and see of a bishop, suffragan to the Archbishop of Bologna; in an agreeable plain, r. bank, Stirone, 15 m. N.W. Parma. It is surrounded by walls, has several good streets, a cathedral, four parish churches, a college, Hebrew, and some other schools and literary institutions ; a ducal palace, Gothic townhouse, hospital, theatre, cavalry barracks, several convents, public baths, and storehouses. Manufactures: woollen, linen, and silken fabrics, oil, and wine. An annual fair is held in October. This town obtained its name from St. Donninus, who was beheaded here in 304. Pop. 3829. The DISTRICT is well watered and fertile, about 38 m. long, and 16 broad ; area, 706 sq. m. Pop. 130,1 95. 9, Borgo-a-Muz- zano, a tn. duchy of Lucca, cap. dist. of same name, 13 m. N. Lucca, r. bank, Serchio. Pop. 1500. 10, Borgonovo (in Valtidone], a tn. and com. duchy of Piacenza, 3 m. S. by E. Castel-san-Giovanni, in a plain at the foot of Mount Valti done. The vicinity is mountainous, but the valleys are fer tile. Forests of oak, beech, chestnut, &c., cover the hill sides, and much cattle is reared. Pop. 5252. 1 1, Borgo-san Bernardino, or Betiola-san-Bernardino, a tn. and com. Italy, duchy of, and 20 m. S. Piacenza, 1. bank, Nure. The vicinity is mountainous, and covered with forests. The valleys are fruitful, and cattle and pigs are reared in great numbers. Pop. 5252. 12, Borgo-san-Lorenzo, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 15 m. N. Florence, on the Sieve. Grain and fruits are good and abundant here, and cattle are reared. Pop. 3225. BORGO-DI-VAL-SUGANA, a tn. Austria, Tyrol, in the valley of the Sugana, on the Brenta, 12 m. E. by S. Trent. It is well built, has a parish church, with three fine pictures, a Franciscan monastery, which was founded in 1603, several schools, an hospital, richly endowed ; a theatre, a mineral spring, and a handsome stone bridge over the Breuta. The raising of silk employs about 340 persons. Pop. 3450. BORGOBRUND, a vil. Austria, Transylvania, co. Dobak, cap. dist. of same name, 12 m. N.E. Bistritz, at the entrance of a pass over the Carpathians, leading from Transylvania into Bukowina. It contains a Greek non-united church, and has some manufactures of earthenware, particularly tobacco-pipes. The whole district is mountainous. Pop. about 800. BORGOMANERO, a tn. Sardinian States, Piedmont, prov. of, and 18 m. N.N.W. Novara, l.Lank, Gogna, and nearly equidistant from the S. extremities of Lakes Maggiore and Orta. It is walled and well built, and contains a communal college, several convents, an hospital, a mont-de-pitte, &c. It lias little trade, but some manufactures, and three annual fairs. Pop. 6000. BORGOO, three countries, interior Africa: 1, A country in the land of the Tibboos or Tippoos, 15 days journey S. Fezzan. 2, A country, four days journey S.S.E. the former, and called also Waday (which see}. 3, A country on the S.W. frontier of Houssa, and separated from it by the Joliba or Niger, and bounded S. by Dahomey and Yaribba. BORGOTARO, a small tn. Italy, Parma, cap. dist. of same name, 32 m. S.W. Parma, 1. bank, Taro. It is well built, surrounded by walls, has three gates, handsome streets, two churches, town and session houses, an hospital, public library, cavalry barracks, theatre, some schools, and public fountains. Four annual fairs are held here. Pop. 2687. The DISTRICT of Borgotaro is hilly, and well wooded ; area, 489 sq. m. Pop. 48,784. BORGUE, a par. and vil. Scotland, stewartry of Kirk cudbright ; area, 40 sq. m. ; interesting ruins of the tower of Balmangan, and Plunton Castle. Pop. 1117. BOR1SSOFF, or BORYSSOW, a tn. Russia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 44 m. N.E. Minsk, 1. bank, Berezina. Near to Borissoff, at the village of Stoudianka, the French made their disastrous passage over the Berezina. Pop. 2700. BORISSOGLEBSK, two tns. Russia:!, A tn., gov. of, and 55 m. N.W. Yaroslav, r. bank, Wolga, opposite Romanov, built among woods. It has several forges, chiefly employed in making iron pots, and some trade in grain and fish. Pop. about 4000. 2, A tn., cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 102 m. S.E. Sambov, on the Vorona, near its junction witli the Khoper. It contains two churches, and is an entrepot for some inland traffic by water. Pop. about 2000. BORJA, a city, Spain, Aragon, prov. of, and 38 m. W. by N. Saragossa, at the foot of a small hill, on the top of which stand the remains of an ancient castle. It has well- built and paved streets and squares, a collegiate, and two other churches, a college, two endowed schools, townhouse, BORJAS 451 BORNEO two prisons, an hospital, a storehouse, three convents, and a cemetery. Manufactures: cloth, blankets, silk, hempen fabrics, and brandy. Pop., chiefly agricultural, 4239. BORJAS, a tn. Spain, Catalonia, prov. of, and 14m. E. by S. Lerida, tolerably well built, and having a parish church, a chapel, townhall, session-house, an endowed school, hospital, prison, and storehouse. Pop., exclusively agricultural, 2000. BORKAI, or BOKGUI. 1, A bay, Arctic Ocean, Siberian coast, between lat. 70 4 and 72 N. ; Ion. 129 and 133 E. 2, A cape, forming the N.E. boundary of the above. BORKEN. 1, A tn. and circle, Prussia, gov. Minister. The TOWN lies on the Ahe, 34 m. W.S.W. MUnster, has a chicory factory, and both manufactures and deals largely in linen. Pop. 3000. The CIRCLE, area, 190 geo. sq. m., is undulating and well wooded, fertile, and well cultivated, and rears a great number of cattle. Its manufactures of woollen, silk, and cotton stuffs, worsted, chicory, and cutlery, are also extensive. Pop. 41,372. 2, A tn. Hesse Cassel, prov. Niederhessen, circle of, and 4 in. W.N.W. Homberg; on the Olmsbach, at the N. foot of a little basaltic hill, on which a strong castle of the noble family of Borken once stood. It contains a church, synagogue, burgher school, and hospital. The inhabitants depend chieily on agriculture ; five yearly markets. Pop. 1373. BORKHUM, BOEKUM, or BOECUM [Latin, Burchania], an isl., N. Sea, belonging to Hanover, off the mouth of the Ems, bail. Pewsum ; lat. (lighthouse) 53 35 30 N. ; Ion. 6 40 42" E. (R.); about 14m. in circumference. At high water, the sea flows through a hollow in the centre of the island, and divides it into two nearly equal parts. Borkhum is a parish. Its church has a tower 154 ft. high, which is used as a lighthouse, and provided with English lamps, and 28 parabolic reflectors, which guide the entrance into the Dol- iart. Most of the male inhabitants are seamen ; the remainder support themselves by husbandry, gardening, and the rearing of cattle. Pop. about 500. BORLEY, par. Eng. Essex; 730 ac. Pop. 188. BORMIDA, a river, Sardinia, which rises in the Maritime Alps, near Mount Calvi, and in two branches, the one called the W., and the other the E. The Bormida proceeds N. to Bis- tagno, where the two branches unite. It turns E. till it passes Acqui, near which it resumes its N. course, and, after receiving the Orba, joins r. bank, Tanaro, 2 m. E. Alexandria. BORM10 [German, Worms], a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, on the route of the Steivio, 31 m. N.E. Sondrio, in the valley of, and on r. bank, Adda, 4550 ft. above the sea level. Near it, upon the side of Mount Braglio, are hot saline springs and baths (100 Fall.), celebrated by Cassiodorus, and much frequented by invalids. It enjoyed a considerable trade with Venice and the Grisons, but in 1799 it was partly burnt by the French, when it fell into decay, but is again reviving Pop. 2500. BORNA, a tn. and bail. Saxony, circle of, and 17 m. S.S.E. Leipzig. The inhabitants live by spinning, weaving, and the ordinary handicrafts. Pop. of tn. 3800 ; of bail. 30,988. BORNABI, or ASCENSION, one of the Caroline Islands, N. Pacific Ocean ; lat. 6 48 N. ; Ion. 158 25 E. It is about 80 m. in circumference, of volcanic formation, and so lofty, that it may be seen, in clear weather, 40 m. from a ship s deck. It is surrounded by coral reefs, between which and the island are many small islets, that do not rise more than a few feet above the water, yet are covered with cocoa-nut trees and other timber. Bornabi having more communica tion with strangers, on account of its good harbours, than any of the surrounding islands, is much resorted to by their inhabitants for the purpose of obtaining tobacco and other foreign commodities. The two principal harbours, Matalanien and Koan Kiddi, are situate, the former on the N.E. side of the island, the latter on the S. side. They are much fre quented by whalers. (Nautical Magazine, 1848.) BORNEO, an isl. Indian Archipelago, lying under the equator, and nearly bisected by meridian 114 E. Except ing Australia, it is the largest island on the globe. Its most N. point (Cape Sampanmangio) is in lat. 7 5 N. ; its most S. (Cape Salatan) in lat. 4 13 S., so that it extends through 12 18 of latitude; while, in longitude, it stretches through 10 28 , from Cape Pandan on the W. (108 52 E.), to Cape Oonsang on the E. (in 119 20 ). The form of Borneo is that of an irregular pentagon, with a small rhomboid attached to it on the side facing the N.E.; or, to use a homely similitude, it may be compared to a shoulder of mutton the knee-joint pointing to the N.E., and the blade-bone expanding to the S.E. The greatest length of the island is in the direction of N.E. by N., and S. W. by S., from Cape Sampanmangio to Cape Sambar, a distance of 850 m. ; its width, taken at right angles to the direction here inlicated, is, in some places, 600 m., but diminishes towards the N. The area cannot fall short of 270,000 sq. m.; and, consequently, exceeds threefold that of Great Britain. Surrounding Seas. Borneo forms the central mass of the Archipelago which extends from Sumatra in the W., to the Moluccas and Philippine Islands in the E. ; and which is sharply circumscribed, on the S., by the chain of islands that stretches from Java to the Arru group, in the vicinity of Papua. The seas surrounding it are variously denominated from the adjoining shores. From N. to S.\V., it is washed by the Chinese Sea, which, narrowing in the latter direction, be- j tween Cape Sambar arid the island of Biliton, takes the name of the Straits of Carimata. On the S., Borneo faces the Sea of Java ; on the E., it is separated from Celebes by the Straits of Macassar ; N. of which, from Cape Kanioongan to Cape Oonsang, a distance of 250 geo. m., its shores are washed by the Sea of Celebes. From the vicinity of Cape Oonsang (lat. 5 N.), the Sooloo Islands extend across, in an E.N.E. direc tion, to Mindanao ; and N. of them is the Sea of Mindoro, which mixes its waters with those of the Chinese Sea, at the N. point of Borneo. The coasts of this great island are beset by numerous reefs, which, in many places, rise into count less islets ; and further off lie clusters of islands, such as those of Balabalagan, or Little Paternosters, in the Straits of Macas sar ; of Carimata, in the straits of the same name ; and the islands of Tambelan and Natuna, in the Chinese Sea. These insular groups, usually considered, with little reason, as be longing to Borneo, are as yet hardly known in detail. General Aspect. Though the mountains of Borneo are, in some places, visible from the sea, particularly off its N. coasts, yet the general character of its shores is that of mangrove wastes, or of interminable low plains, liable to inundation, and covered with dense forests. The parts frequented by Europeans are chiefly in the vicinity of great rivers, which form extensive deltas, wherein there is hardly anything to be seen but the water and the impervious forest. There must, of course, be a great extent of elevated country in the inte rior, whence descend the innumerable streams intersecting the maritime tracts ; but still there is reason to believe that a very large portion of Borneo consists of immense alluvial Elains of the greatest fertility, and raised but little above the jvel of the sea. Mountains. The mountains in the interior of Borneo, it has been already observed, become more conspicuous towards the N. The highest of them, Kinibaloo, in lat. 6 8 N., and Ion. 116 33 E., attains an elevation of 13,680 ft. On the E. side of this mountain, there is said to be a great lake of the same name, from which, if the accounts of natives are to be relied on, issue numerous rivers. From this culminating point, a chain of mountains may be conjectured to extend S.W. throughout the whole extent of the island, terminating a little E. of Cape Sambar. From about lat. 2 N., and from that part of the central ridge named Anga-anga, a ramification, known in its successive portions as the Longooloo and Sakoo- roo Mountains, extends E. by S. to Cape Kanioongan, lat. 1 N. A second ramification leaves the central ridge further S., and, running S.E. about 200 m., turns S., and finally S. W., till it terminates in Cape Salatan, the most S. point of the island. Again, from the mountains of Madei, in the central region, lat. 1 N., a chain of mountains runs W. about 200 m., and then N., till it ends in Mount Pangi, near Cape [Tanjong] Datoo, lat. 2 5 N. Thus it appears that Borneo, the moun tain chains of which all branch out from one central nucleus, resembles the neighbouring island of Celebes in its formation much more closely than might be suspected from the hasty comparison of their figures on the map. For if the former island were sunk 1000 ft., or even 500 ft, it would lose immediately its compact form, and its mountain-ranges would figure as narrow peninsulas, some hundreds of miles in length, separated by immense gulfs instead of alluvial plains. The following list of heights all, probably, with exception of I the first and last, to be considered only as rough estimates BORNEO 452 BORNEO may serve to give some idea of the configuration of the country : F<*k Kinibaloo 13,680 Karaintmg, the. S.W. chain 6,500 Luangi, S.K. chain, above the sources of the Nagiira 6,300 Meratoos, same chain further S 4,000 Batang Loopar, W. chain, E. of Sarawak 4,000 S^}W. chain, S. of Sarawak l;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;!^ Pandan, in Sambas 3,000 Santobong, at the mouth of the river Sarawak 2,050 JRivcrs. The rivers are, in general, tide-rivers, descending in a winding course, and with little current, through vast level j deltas, the lower portions of which are often overflowed by the sea. Hence their mouths are nearly all barred or obstructed by sand-banks ; and while, with broad streams and numerous branches, they afford great advantages within for internal communication, they are quite inaccessible from without by vessels of moderate size. They are extremely numerous, and still so little known, that it would be hazardous, in most cases, to venture an opinion as to their relative importance. It will be sufficient, in this place, to enumerate only the chief rivers within each of the great basins or river regions marked out by the chains of mountains described above. From Kinibaloo, the mountains running S.W. and then W. to Cape Datoo, confine a maritime tract 600 m. long, facing the N.W. and N., and intersected, probably, by several hundreds of rivers ; the direct course of which, however, from the mountains, can hardly ever exceed 150 m. Towards the N., some of these rivers descend with so lively a stream as to carry fresh water to the sea-side, an advantage of rare occurrence on other parts of the Bornean coast. In lat. 5 N. is the estuary of the river of Brunai or Borneo Proper, which some describe as the largest river of the whole island. It is in reality, how ever, a stream of second or third-rate magnitude ; but has the advantage of flowing in a single broad channel, easily entered by ships of burden. Near lat. 2 N. are the mouths of the Rejaug and the Sarebus, both great rivers ; the former being nearly 1 m. wide 80 m. above its mouth. But the Batang Loopar, about 50 m. further S., lat. 1 35 N., far exceeds them ; and is, probably, the largest river in this region of the island, being 4 or 5 m. wide, with depth of water suffi cient for a frigate. Then follows, 40 m. \V., the Sarawak, a river of comparatively short course, but offering, in its numer ous branches, intersecting an extensive delta, extraordinary facilities for internal communication. In the region confined by the W. and S.W. chains, flow the Sambas, lat. 1 12 N., as large a river as that of Brunai and the Kapooas, the most N. mouth of which is under the equator. This is probably the greatest river of Borneo ; its sources being 350 m. dis tant, in a straight line ; while its winding course can hardly be less than 700 m. in length. Between the S.W. and S. chains of mountains, lies an immense alluvial expanse, watered by numerous great rivers, the Pembooan, the Sampit, Men- dawei, Kahajan, Murong, and Banjarmassin, or Banjar, in creasing in magnitude towards the E. ; the last-named river being the largest of all, and hardly inferior to the Kapooas. It is connected by several arms, some of which are above 100 m. inland, with the Murong on the W., and thence again ! with the Kahajan. The character of the country, through j which it issues to the sea, is indicated by its name, Banjar- \ massin, signifying usual or frequent inundation ; but this name is given to it only in the flooded delta ; higher up it is called the Dooson [village-river], its banks being occu pied by a settled agricultural population. The valley of the Nagara, an E. affluent of the Banjarmassin, the sources of which are but three days journey distant from Pasir, on the E. coast, is one of the most populous districts of the whole island. The region enclosed between the S.E. and E. chains (Pangaloo and Sakooroo), is drained by the Kootai, a river not much inferior to. the Banjarmassin, but little known. Its delta, embracing above 100 m. of coast on the Straits of Macassar, begins a little S. of the equator. A Dutch officer, Major G. M tiller, ascended this river in 1825, for the purpose of exploring the interior, and had succeeded in crossing the mountains into the valley of the Kapooas, when he was unexpectedly attacked and killed by the natives. N. of the E. chain, which terminates at Cape Kanioongan, lat. 1 N., the Pantai, or river of Berow, enters the sea in lat. 2 N. ; while the Sabanoon and Umara, both mouths of the Boo- longan, lie respectively in lat. 2 45 and 2 52 N. These rivers, though barred, are not inaccessible, and may be navi gated a long way up. Further N., for some hundreds of miles, the details of the coast are but little known, but the Kinaba- tangan, in lat. 5 45 , is reported to be a great river. Lakes. Of the lakes, little is known, and that little chiefly through native information. The most celebrated of them is that of Kinibaloo, E. side of the mountain of the same name. About three degrees further S., near the source of the Boo- longan, report places another great lake (no doubt erro neously), to be, like the former, the source of many great rivers. These two lakes are situate in or near the mountains. In the alluvial plains also, particularly near the large rivers, lakes are numerous, but not remarkable either for magnitude or as interesting physical features. Yet the chain of lakes which connects the Kapoo as and the Kotaringin is said to prove that the principality of Matan, at the S.W. angle of Borneo, was insulated, at a comparatively recent period, by a narrow strait or arm of the sea. Geology. Borneo being so little explored, its geological formation is necessarily very imperfectly known. All that can be done, therefore, is to bring together those ascertained facts which seem to indicate the general structure of the island. In Sarawak, granite, with the several allied varieties of rock, prevail along the coast, the valleys being filled chiefly with a detritus of feldspathic materials, while limestone mountains encompass this district on the S. The Gunong Eatoos [hundred mountains] also, a chain 3000 ft. high, separating the Tanah-laut, or maritime country, at the S.E. angle of the island, from the valley of the Banjarmassin, is formed of granitic rocks, underlying, probably, the limestone, which shows itself further N., in the same valley. In both the granitic districts here mentioned, are found quartzose masses, resembling scoriaj, widely disseminated, and contain ing iron. It is in this diluvial formation of quartzose gravel, reddened with oxide of iron, that the gold and diamonds of Borneo are found in such abundance. In the vicinity of Brunai or Borneo, and also in Labuan, 30 m. further N., coal has been discovered, under circumstances which indicate the existence of a large field of this valuable mineral. On the river of Martapoora, also, E. of the town of Banjarmassin, have been found beds of excellent coal. Basalts, and other volcanic rocks, occur in Maludu Bay, at the N. end of the island, and also at the falls of the Dooson, or Banjarmassin river, where it issues from the mountains. Besides gold, the annual produce of which has been estimated at a quarter of a million, Borneo yields copper, tin, antimony, and iron, which last is of the best quality. The diamonds are widely disseminated in the red soil, but the largest are said to be found on Mount Landa, in Pontianak. The business of mining, for gold and diamonds, is wholly in the hands of Chinese adventurers, and is carried on chiefly in Pontianak and Sambas. Climate. The wet season in Borneo begins in September, and ends in April, during which time the rain falls heavily, attended with much thunder and lightning, and violent squalls. During the rest of the year, or the dry season, as it is called, copious showers fall nearly every day. In the equatorial parts, the winds are variable throughout the year, sea-breezes, however, blowing close on shore. On the N. shores, the monsoons are those of the Chinese Sea in general N.E. from October to April, and S.W. the remainder of the year ; on the S. shores, about Banjarmassin, the monsoons resemble those of Java, being from the \V. and E. respectively, in the seasons already mentioned. The heat is not by any means so great as might be expected, from the geographical position of the country a circumstance attributable, no doubt, to the prevailing humidity, the vast extent of forest, screening the ground, and itself incapable of accumulating or rever berating heat, and to the frequency of the sea-breezes. In Pontianak, the summer heat rarely exceeds 82 Fah. This equability of temperature, and the atmospheric circulation, may, perhaps, explain why the European visitors to the swampy, luxuriant shores of Borneo, rarely complain of their insalubrity. Zoology. An equatorial land, exceeding France in extent, varied and fertile, and still, for the most part, in a state of nature, may well be supposed to teem with animal life in great diversity of form. Here it will be sufficient to point BORNEO 453 BORNEO out what is peculiar to, or characteristic of, Borneo, in the department of Zoology. A great portion of this island is covered with dense forests, excluding the light, and frequently inundated beneath to a depth of some feet. In these secure retreats lives the orang-outang (Simia satyrus), an animal peculiar to Borneo and Sumatra. It is less formidable than is commonly supposed, and rarely ventures to the ground ; but, in running through the forest from bough to bough, or on the compact foliage which forms its roof, it displays much address and activity. Two other remarkable apes, the long- nosed and the crested, inhabit the skirts of the same woods, near the banks of rivers and lakes. The only gibbon (lar) found in the island, haunts the fig-tree thickets on the slopes of the mountains. In the mountainous districts is found also the striped tiger (Felis macrocelis), which is here the chief beast of prey, though not so powerful nor voracious as the panther. But the most remarkable animal in Borneo, after the orang-outang, is a singularly-whiskered carnivorous creature, resembling at once the otter and ornithorhynchus, and which lias received the scientific name of Potamophilus barbatus. The bear, which spoils the cocoa-nut trees, and steals the honey in the woods, does not appear to be a new species. A porcupine (Hystrix fasciata) supplies a favourite food to the natives, who say that this animal alone can feed with im punity on the upas. There is reason to believe that neither the elephant nor rhinoceros exist in Borneo , which possesses, however, a peculiar species of hog (Stis barbatus}, distinguished by its enormous whiskers and hideous aspect. The banteng, a large and handsome species of buffalo, inhabits the moun tains ; the napu, a musk, frequents the borders of the woods. Of deer, only three species are known ; respecting one of which, the murchac, it is said by the natives, that whoever eats its flesh will die of cutaneous disease. In the rivers of Borneo are three species of crocodile, one of which resembles the gavial of the Ganges. Fish are extremely abundant along the shores. In the Chinese Sea, all the reefs and islets are. covered with oysters. In the Straits of Macassar, pearls and mother-of-pearl are ordinary productions. Botany. Of the countless forms of the vegetable kingdom which clothe this prolific island, only a few can here be men tioned. The cocoa-nut, betel, sago, and gomati, the fibre of which serves to make cordage, are the palms most highly esteemed by the natives. The Nipa fruticens also, which adorns the banks of the rivers, where it invariably grows on the side of the deep water, while the mangrove overspreads the shallow side, is of great importance. Its scented flowers feed the bees which furnish the wax exported in such quantity ; its fruit resembles the cocoa-nut, and its branches serve to form the roofs of houses. This must not be confounded with the niebong, the leaves of which are used to cover the roofs, and its exterior sheath of wood for flooring and boatbuilding. A species of sugar-cane here grows wild, as well as a kind of nutmeg (in this state flavourless), and a cinnamon, which has a taste of cloves. The mountain sides, where there is a sand stone soil, are covered with pine woods ; and still higher up, the iron-wood tree (Diospyros) attains, with slow growth, colossal dimensions. In the district of Sarawak, and probably throughout the island, the gutta percha tree (Isonandra guttu] is plentiful. It attains a diameter of 6 ft., and is called Niato by the natives, who are ignorant of the use of its juice. Inhabitants. The Europeans, who now arrogate the do minions of the shores of Borneo, find themselves preceded in that island by three different races the Chinese, the Malays, and the Dyaks. The first of these are temporary visitors, in constant circulation, and led to this country by the desire of exercising a lucrative industry. The Malays are conquer ors, who have issued from Sumatra or the Malayan Peninsula, within the last five centuries, and have established themselves on the coasts, throughout the Indian Archipelago, for the sake of engrossing the commerce. In Borneo they are strictly confined to the sea-board, and banks of the navigable rivers. The interior of that great island still remains wholly to its aboriginal possessors the Dyaks. But it must be observed, that the native wild tribes of the interior are properly called Dyaks only in the W. Dutch residences, and the adjoining district of Sarawak ; in other parts, they are called Biajow, Kajan, Marat, &c. Yet, notwithstanding the doubts and con tradictions uttered on this subject in recent accounts of Bor neo, it may be confidently assumed, that the nations owning these various appellations are all connected together by the ties of a common origin, a common language, and similar manners, though varying in dialect and fashions, and divided into numberless petty tribes, each of which usually bears the name of the river whereon it is settled. Dyaks. The Dyaks are of middling stature, well made, but not vigorously developed. They are fairer than the Malays, have good foreheads, regular features, and a frank, agreeable aspect. Their eyes are somewhat oblique, and their cheek-bones prominent, thus seeming to betray a mixture of Mongolian blood. Their dress varies much in different parts of the island. In general, they wear a cotton cloth round the loins. The Doosons of the N. coast wear immense rings of solid tin or copper round the lower parts of the body and the shoulders ; while the Saghai of the S.E. are dressed in DYAKS. 1. DOOSON. 2. SAGHAI From Marryafa Borneo, and Belcher s Voyage of the Samar;m. tigers skins and rich cloth, with splendid head-dresses made of monkeys skins and the feathers of the argus pheasant. Others wear rings of ratan, in place of metal ; the neck is loaded with collars of human teeth, or of the teeth of apes and wild boars; the head-dress is made of cloth, decked with feathers, or of the bark of trees, with tufts of fibre resem bling feathers. Their ears are loaded with as many heavy rings as they can bear, which stretch the lobes immoderately. Some tribes are tattooed in blue lines from head to foot, others make war dresses of handsome peltry, preferring the skin of the tiger. Their arms are a buckler of hard wood, a spear, and sword or knife ; some tribes use also the sarbacan, or sumpitan, a slender tube, about 5 feet long, through which is blown a small dart, 9 inches long, and no thicker than a strong wire, the point of which is dipped in a poison made from the upas. The women s dress is becoming, but their stays, made of bark, sometimes stiffened with rims of brass, are sewed on them, and never removed except in case of preg nancy. The Dyaks of the W. side of the island generally dwell in sheds or houses, capacious enough to contain the whole community ; some have been seen nearly 500 feet long, and capable of lodging 400 people. These houses are uni formly erected on piles of iron-wood, from 5 to 20 feet from the ground. The floors are of split bamboo ; the roofs covered with the leaf of the Niebong. Thin partitions of split cane separate the apartments of the married people from the com mon room ; the chief occupies the centre of the building, and in front of his chamber, usually, a portion of the common hall is set apart as the head-house. And here we are led to con sider the most revolting characteristic of these people ; for the Dyaks, though ordinarily neither fierce, treacherous, nor san guinary, yet covet human heads ; and no man can marry till he has won the object of his affections, by presenting to her at least one of these horrid trophies. These fruits and memo- BORNEO 454 BORNEO rials of murder are pickled, and, with, cowry shells in the eye-sockets, and tufts of grass in the ears, are hung up in the head-house. On festivals they are taken down to adorn the persons of the heroes to whom they respectively belong, who dance with these ornaments dangling at their sides, suspended by belts over the shoulders. A similar custom of obtaining heads is prevalent among the Alfoories of Celebes and Ceram. The Dyaks, apart from Malayan influence, seem to have no ideas of religion. They have no form of wor ship, and no priests ; the only superstition distinctly recog nized among them, consists in augury, or in attention to the flight of several birds. Most of the tribes bury the dead ; some burn the body, and others suspend the coffin from a tree. In all cases, the head first acquired by the deceased accompanies him to the grave. The Dyaks marry but one wife, and though there is said to exist among them much license before marriage, infidelity is rare. Their govern ment seems to be republican ; their chiefs exercise influence, but are not armed with effectual authority. These people, even when turned cultivators, and residing in villages, still retain a trace of nomadic habits ; when the fertility of their rice grounds is exhausted, they abandon them, and settle elsewhere. They have little industry, yet their sumpitans or blow- pipes, their utensils of plaited cane, and their prahus, often 50 feet long, are so many specimens of excellent work manship. Some of the native tribes on the N. shores of Borneo live much on the water, where they are always ready to attack those who seem weaker than themselves. Language. The language of the Dyaks is radically re lated to the Malayan, both being apparently derived from that primeval Polynesian language, the remains of which may now be traced from Madagascar to the Sandwich Islands. It is reported that in the mountainous interior of the island, N. of the valley of the Banjarmassin, there exists a wild people who go quite naked, live in trees, and shun all intercourse. They are called by the S. tribes Orang Vut; on the W. coast they are known as the Orang Bunan. Chinese. The Chinese who crowd to the shores of Borneo belong to the dregs of the people, yet in their newly-adopted country they exhibit a decided superiority in social and in dustrial capabilities, and their villages are patterns of good order, comfort, and abundance. The mining business is wholly in their hands, and, after some years labour, they return to China, generally in good circumstances, enriched, it is supposed, by the concealment of gold dust and diamonds. They are accused of turbulence, that is to say, impatience of Malayan rule, and in truth, if they could bring with them Chinese wives, and dispose themselves to settle permanently in Borneo, they would have long since dispossessed the Malays. For their own protection they combine in societies called Kong-sies, the members of which are bound by an oath, solemnized by drinking blood, and the administration of which, in China, is forbidden under pain of capital punishment. The three great Kong-sies, which may be said to govern the mining interests of W. Borneo, are Lang-fong in Pontianak, which is said to have at its command 6000 fighting men ; the other two, viz., Tay-kong, and Lara Sin-ta-kiou, able to levy 10,000 and 5000 combatants respectively, are in Sambas. Malays. The Malays in Borneo have lost none of the dis tinctive characters of their nation; they manifest the greatest inclination towards a seafaring life, and many of them may be said to have their home on the waters, following piracy as an occupation as well as commerce. Though habitually indolent, they are not without capability of exertion as well as skill, and, with their excellent iron, they can imitate to perfection the finest work of our cutlers and gunsmiths. Antiquities. It deserves to be remarked that, both in the valley of the Nagara, E. of the Banjarmassin, and near the banks of the Kapooas, in Pontianak, remains have been found of Hindoo temples, with sculptures, coarse indeed, yet indi cative of art and civilization, superior to any now existing in Borneo among either the Dyaks or Malays. At one village on the Nagara, the memory of the Hindoo colony (Orang Kling) is still traditionally preserved. Among the Dyaks also are preserved, as precious heirlooms, with religious care, certain large jars, with dragons in relief, said to have come from Java, but thought, by good judges, to be of Chinese origin. Such jars, however, are no longer made in Java or in China, and nothing seems to be preserved of the history of their manufacture which can throw light on the question of their age. Produce. The productions of Borneo which find their way into commerce are, gold, platina, tin, antimony, copper, iron, and diamonds. Edible birds nests, collected in the interior, as well as on the coasts, trepang or liolothuria, fislu d in the Straits of Macassar these three articles are destined wholly for the Chinese market. Camphor, iron-wood, ebony, ratans, cassia, wax, sago, and rice, are in general demand. Divisions. Of the great island of Borneo, above two-thirds are claimed by the Dutch, either as actually possessed by them, and subject to their immediate authority, or by virtue of treaties made with the native princes, who have acknowledged their supremacy. The portion exempted from their rule is the N. and narrow part ; its limits on the coast being Tanjong, or Cape Datoo, on the W., lat. 2 5 N. ; and the mouth of the river Atas, lat. 3 20 N., on the E. This maritime region, 1200 m. in extent, was, till lately, divided between two States ; the Sultan of Borneo Proper claiming the dominion of the N.W. coasts, from Tanjong Datoo to the river Kimanis, lat. 5 35 N.; while the Sultan of Sooloo domineered over the remainder. But a third power, capable of counterpoising the influence of the Dutch, has recently arisen here, which threatens to extinguish the preceding two ere long, if that result be not indeed virtually accomplished already. The district of Sarawak, extending from Tanjong Datoo E.S.E., about 70 m., to the mouth of the river Sama- rahan, and consequently within the dominions of Borneo Proper, was purchased in 1842, from its native chiefs, by an English gentleman, Mr. Brooke, and formally and absolutely ceded to Great Britain in the followimg year, by the Sultan of Borneo, who probably foresaw that he could never reckon on the obedience of his new vassal. In fact, the English rajah of Sarawak attacked and took the city of Brunai or Borneo in July 1846; and among the fruits of his victory may be reckoned the cession to Great Britain, a few months later, of the small island of Labuan, situate about 30 m. N. the Borneo river, and well fitted, by local circumstances, to command the trade of these coasts. Thus the British are now established on the N. coasts of Borneo, where they figure as the protectors of lawful commerce ; but, as the Sultans of Borneo Proper and Sooloo, with their subordinate chiefs, are always more or less obnoxious to the general charge of piracy, and the consequent penalty of extermination, it is obvious that the sway of the British, in these seas, must eventually extend itself over both the shores protected by them, and the States coerced by the act of protection. The Dutch possessions and dependencies in Borneo are embraced by a coast line of not less than 1800 m., from Tanjong Datoo, round by the S., to the river Atas on the E. coast. The former are divided into three residences or pro vinces, of very unequal size Sambas, Pontianak, and Banjar massin. The first of these adjoins Sarawak, from which it is separated by the mountains on the S.W., and extends about 120 m. along the coast, from Tanjong Datoo to the river Doori. Mount Bajang, its furthest inland limit, is probably 100 m. from the sea. Between the rivers Doori and Kotar- ingin, the coast boundaries of Pontianak, the distance is 300 m. in a straight line ; while, in the interior, this residence embraces the entire valley of the Kapooas. It comprises 24 principalities, of which, however, only the following seven are immediately under Dutch control : Mampowa, Pontianak, Lanclak, Kooboo, Simpang, Succadana, and Matan. And here it may be observed, that the name Succadana, which means terrestrial paradise, and belongs properly to a small district S. of the Simpang river, is by some writers extended to the whole of this region, including Sambas. Among the dependencies of Pontianak are reckoned about 100 islands. The residence of Banjarmassin, or of the S. and E. coasts, far exceeds that of Pontianak in magnitude ; and besides, as the chief seat of Government, it claims the vassalage of the dependent states on the E. coast ; these are, the kingdoms or principalities of Tanah-Bumbu, Pasir, Kootai, Gonong-Tabur, and Bulongan. Within this ample territory, in the town of Martapoora, about 20 m. from the Dutch capital, the Sultan of Banjarmassin is allowed to retain, within a narrow district, the semblance of independence. The Governor of Banjar massin was, till 1846, subordinate to the Governor-general of the Dutch Indies, in Batavia ; but, since that date, he has BORNEO PROPER 455 BORNOS exercised, under the title of Governor of Borneo, plenary and independent powers. Population. The population of Borneo may be estimated, with some probability, to be 2,000,000, of whom 400,000 are Malays, 100,000 Bugis, from Celebes, and 140,000 Chinese; the rest are Dyaks or indigenous tribes. History and Name. The Europeans who first visited this island, early in the 16th century Lorenzo de Gomez, in 1518, and Pigafetta, with the ships of Magalhaen s expedition, in 1521 both named it Brunai or Brung, from the port and prin cipal city on its N.W. shores, at which they touched. This name, written by the Malays themselves Burni or Boorni, is obviously the Sanscrit Bliurni or Blioorni [land] ; its conversion into Borneo, and application to the whole island, came into use, among Europeans, in the 17th century. Some writers have stated that the island, in its whole extent, is called, by the natives, Pulo Kalamantan; but those who have had most intercourse with the native tribes of Borneo, deny that they have any general name for the whole island. The first Dutchman who arrived at Borneo was Oliver van Noort, in 1 598. The reputation of the island for abundance of diamonds and bezoar-stone (the latter was considered, at that time, as a universal medicine) induced the Dutch settled in Batavia to send, in 1608, to the Queen of Succadana, an officer, demanding a treaty of commerce ; to whom she replied, that the trade of her country was free to all nations. In 1 609, however, they succeeded in making a treaty with the Sultan of Sambas. A factory was thus established, and the factors gradually raised themselves into sovereigns, by steps which cannot be here detailed. In 1769, the English, having taken Manilla, obtained from their ally, the Sultan of Sooloo, the cession of his claim to the N. coasts of Borneo ; and took possession of Balambangan. But, in 1775, the garrison of that island, composed chiefly of Bugis, was cut to pieces by a band of pirates ; and the settlement was consequently aban doned. When Java was taken by the British, in the late war, the Dutch power in Borneo fell to the ground, and the native chiefs, watched by a few British political agents, resumed the exercise of their original authority ; but they now found themselves unable to cope with the Chinese Kong-sies ; and were, therefore, well pleased at the return, in 1818, of their Dutch masters. In 1842, the boldness of Mr. (now Sir James) Brooke, who had become acquainted with the lucrative com merce of those seas, and contrived to obtain the territory of Sarawak, with the title of Eajah, broke through the limits of the monopoly so long maintained by the Dutch. These, to meet the danger, have renewed their treaties with all the native princes within their influence, in terms which assign them an express supremacy. But British influence must neces sarily extend from Labuan and Sarawak over the N. of the island ; and if the maxim of the Queen of Succadana, in favour of a free trade with all nations, be steadfastly adhered to, that influence will probably gain the ascendant in the S. also. (Van der Aa s Aardrijkskundig Woordenboelc der Nederlanden ; Temminck, Coup ffce.il sur Vlndcs Neerlandaiscs ; Moniteur des Indes; Earl s Eastern Seas; Low s Sarawak; Sir E. Bel cher s Voyage of the Samarang Keppel and Brooke s Borneo llaussman s Voyage en Malaise ; &c.) BORNEO PROPER, a kingdom or independent prin cipality, N.W. coast, isl. Borneo, extending from the com mon bounds of Sarawak and Sadong (lat. 1 33 N. ; Ion. 110 40 E.), about 500 m. N.W. to the river Kimanis, in lat. 5 40 N. It was at the capital of this kingdom that Europeans first learned the name Burni or Boorni, which they afterwards changed into Borneo, and extended to the whole island. The river of Borneo is a noble stream, 1 J m. wide, and with a depth of water for a frigate up to the city, which is situate about 12 m. above the river s mouth, in lat. 4 52 N. ; Ion. 114 52 E. The city is built on piles in the river, like most Malayan towns, occupying, in three portions, both shores and an island, or rather mud bank, projecting from the S. side. The houses are raised about 3 ft. above high water, and are connected together by narrow planks ; but the intercourse of the place is carried on chiefly by means of j canoes. Borneo has been lately described as a Venice of hovels. It presents a singular spectacle on market-days, when the river is covered with little canoes paddled by women selling eatables, and screened by immense hats, made of palm leaves. When Pigafetta visited this place, in 1521, he sup posed it to contain 25,000 houses, or about 100,000 inhabitants ; subsequent estimates fell lower, and we find the population of Borneo, at the present day, variously estimated at 22,000 or 10,000; the latter number probably being near the truth. Before Europeans had penetrated so far to the E., Borneo enjoyed, in an eminent degree, the prosperity derivable from a most advantageous position on the Chinese seas ; but those active rivals quickly intercepted its chief sources of wealth. Chinese emigrants, however, still frequented the old em porium, where they were deeply engaged in two branches of industry, namely, the cultivation of pepper, and the building of junks, but the disquietude of the country at the commence ment of this century, arising probably from the progressive decline of trade, and general loss of fortune, had the effect of driving away these industrious sojourners, and there are few or no Chinese in Borneo at present. The alienation of Sara wak in 1843, and the forced cession of Labuan to the British, in 1846, were events calculated to hasten the downfall of Borneo Proper ; for Labuan, uniting equal advantages of posi tion with that of the perfect security afforded by civilized government, and an efficient police, will easily become the mistress of these seas, and the old city of Borneo will sink in decay. The dominion of Borneo, along 500 m. of coast, is little more than nominal. There exists no social organization in the country ; there are no roads nor regular communica tions by land ; the Government exercises no prompt or pervad ing authority, but its wild subjects, habitually pillaged and oppressed, are always ready to disobey, when there ceases to be the power to compel their obedience, and that day is evidentally not far distant. BORNHEM, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. Antwerp, 1. bank, Scheldt, 15 m. W. Mechlin, with numerous looms for linen- weaving, several breweries, mills, bleacheries, and tanneries; and trade in seeds, flax, and linen. Pop. 4194. BORNHOLM [anc. Borringia}, an isl. Denmark, Baltic Sea, 90 m. E. Zeeland, and 25 m. S. the most S. point of Sweden. Its most N. point is Cape Hammeren, on which is a lighthouse, 279 ft. high, in lat. 55 17 42" N.; Ion. 14 46 30" E. (K.) It is about 23m. long by 18 broad ; area, 170 geo. sq. m. In general, the coast is high and rocky, presenting perpendicular cliffs, close to which is deep water. Where cliffs do not prevail, reefs and sandbanks stretch out to sea, rendering all approach dangerous, more especially in stormy weather, when the surf is heavy. The island has no good or secure harbour for large vessels, and only few and indifferent ones for small. The best is at Eonne, on the S.W. side, with 1 1 J ft. water. The roadstead, however, is not very good, being exposed to the S.W. winds. Bomholm, both geographically and geologically, belongs to Sweden. In the N. and N.E. it is composed of granite and gneiss, occupying more than a half of the whole area, W. from this crystal line formation, and lying generally N.W. and S.E., are seams of inferior coal, connected with the oolite and the older green sandstone. In the S. are strata of sandstone, schist, and lime stone, of the transition series. Excepting a heath tract near the centre of the island, on a plateau, 250 ft. above the sea, the land is generally fertile, producing the same grain crops as the rest of Denmark, and the same trees, beech excepted. The island has no lakes of any size, and its streams, numerous enough, are merely rivulets, with narrow, rocky courses. Good building stone, and marble, are quarried and exported. The coals are likewise raised and used to some extent, but they are of inferior quality. The island has long been famous for its rock crystals. Its watches have likewise a local re putation. The chief support of the inhabitants is agriculture, cattle-rearing, fishing, and seafaring. The principal town and port is Eonne, after which come Nexoe, and Svanike. Pop. 26,600. (Baggesen, Der Danisclie Staat.) BORNO, a large vil. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 32 m. N.E. Bergamo, r. bank, Oglio. It has a large square, handsome church, two chapels, and a court-house. Pop. 2228. BORNOS, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 28 m. E.N.E. Cadiz; on a slope, near r. bank, Guadalete, and built with considerable regularity. The houses are generally of two stories, and many of them have good gardens. There are fine spacious squares, and the streets are usually of good width, but those which follow the direction of the slope on which the town stands, are more or less steep. The most BORNOU 456 BORROWSTOUNNESS remarkable building is the palace of the Dukes of Medinaceli, part of which consists of an old Moorish castle, in good pre servation. The parish church is large and handsome, and has some good pictures. Manufactures unimportant, and consist ing chiefly of linen and cotton cloth, and soap. Bornos is famous for its water, and the fineness of its climate, which makes it the resort of invalids. Pop. 4826. BORNOU, an extensive kingdom, Central Africa, lying S. and \V. Lake Tchad, having the latter, part of Kanem, and the river Shary, and Begharmi, on the E. and S.E., Houssa on the W., Mandara on the S., and the Desert on the N. and N.\V.; a tract comprehended between the parallels of 15 and 10 N.; and the meridians of 12 and 16 30 E. The whole country is flat, and by far the greater part is covered with thick underwood, high coarse grass, and creep ing and climbing plants, while all around Lake Tchad, and for a considerable distance W., S.W., and S., is alluvial and marshy, and by no means cultivated to the extent it might be. The heat in Bornou is very great, but not uniform. In the hottest season, that is, from March to May or June, the ther- j mometer sometimes rises to 105 and 107 at two o clock in | the afternoon, and is rarely below 100 even during the night. ! The hot season is followed by violent thunder-storms, accom- j panied by heavy rains, which are then nearly continual, with ! cloudy weather, and a damp and sultry atmosphere. The in- i habitants now begin to prepare the ground for corn, and now j the rivers and lakes begin to overflow their banks, and confer ! fertility on the soil. The dry and cold season commences in October. Towards December, and in the beginning of January, the thermometer, no part of the day, mounts higher than 74 or 75, and in the morning it descends to 58 and 60. The country produces little besides grain, the principal kind raised being a species of millet, called gussub. Prepared in various ways, it forms the staple food of the inhabitants. Four kinds of beans, all known by the general name gafoody, are also grown in large quantities. Cotton and indigo, the latter of excellent quality, grow wild, close to the Tchad and over flowed grounds. There are no fruit trees of any description in the kingdom, with exception of a few lime and fig trees in the garden of the Sheikh, at Kouka. The only implement of husbandry is an ill-shaped hoe. The domestic animal are dogs, sheep, goats, cows, horses, and oxen, the last in incalculable herds ; horses are also bred in vast numbers. Domestic fowl and game are abundant ; and bees so numerous, as in some places to obstruct the pass age of travellers. The wild animals of the country are those common to tro pical Africa the lion, leopard, elephant, crocodile, hippopota mus, giraffe, &c. Most of these are eaten by the natives, the flesh of the crocodile, in particular, being reckoned extremely fine, having, according to Denham, a green firm fat, resem bling turtle, while the calipee has the colour, firmness, and flavour of the finest veal. The civet cat also abounds, and its secretion forms an important article of trade. Reptiles are numerous, including scorpions, centipedes, enormous toads, and many varieties of serpents, one of which, said to be harm less, measures from 14 to 16 ft. The rivers and lakes abound with fish. The country is frequently desolated by the visita tions of the locust, which, though a favourite article of food, is on this account much dreaded by the natives. The people of Bornou consist of two classes the descend ants of Arab settlers, and the native race ; the former called Shouas, and the latter Kanowry. The Shouas, who are of a light copper complexion, with an open, pleasing countenance, are a shrewd, cunning, and intelligent people, but deceitful and overbearing; the Kanowry, or aborigines, exhibit all the Negro qualities, both moral and physical. They are simple, peaceable, and inoffensive, but wanting in energy ; have flat noses, large mouths, and inexpressive countenances, of a deep black colour. The latter acknowledge the supe riority of the former, and conduct themselves towards them with a conscious inferiority. There are nine different dialects spoken in the country, besides the Arabic. The government is an absolute monarchy; and the King can, at any time, muster a well-disciplined and well-equipped army of 15,000 or 20,000 men, mostly cavalry, armed with sabre, pike, and bow. A favourite and important body of the infantry consists of spearmen from Kanem, on the N. side of Lake Tchad. The laws are arbitrary ; the punishments severe and summary, but generally administered with justice. The chief articles of export are gold dust, slaves, horses, salt, and civet. The only manufactures known in Bornou are coarse linen, made from the hemp of the country; a species of carpet, used as a covering for the horses ; and a coarse cloth, from wool, mixed with the hair of goats and camels, of which they make tents, for the use of the army. Principal town, Kouka. (Narrative of Travels in Northern and Central Africa, by Denham, Clapperton, and Oudney.) BORODINO, a vil. Russia, gov. of, and 70 m. W.S.W. Moscow, on a small tributary of the Moskwa. Near this village, an obstinate battle was fought, September 7, 1812, just before Napoleon reached Moscow the French gaining a costly victory. BOROFSK, or BOROVSK, an anc. tn. Russia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 49 m. N.N.E. Kalouga, traversed by the Protva. It gives title to a Greek bishop ; contains four churches ; has important manufactures of sailcloth, one fac tory employing 250 hands ; and, in addition to this staple, carries on a considerable trade in flax, hemp, leather, &c. Borofsk is famous for its garlic and onions. In the environs is one of the richest convents in the empire, founded in J 444. Pop. 6000. BORONGO, or BOLONGO. See BROKEN ISLANDS. BOROU. See BOORO. BOROUGHBR1DGE, a small market tn. England, co. York, W. Riding, 17 m. N.W. York, in a valley, on the Urc. It has three streets, straight and well kept ; and is well sup plied with water. The houses are mostly of brick, and tiled or slated. The places of worship are the parish church, a Wesleyan and Independent chapel. There are eight schools, including a national school, and a mechanics institute. Bo- roughbridge returned two members to Parliament from 1553 to the passing of the Reform Act, when it was disfranchised. It has neither trade nor manufactures, the inhabitants being nearly all employed in agricultural labours. The York, New castle, and Berwick Railway have a station here. Pop. of chapelry, 1024. (Local Correspondent.) BOROV1TSCKI-POROQUI, a tn. Russia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 98 m. E. Novgorod, on the Msta. It owes its additional name, Poroqui [cataracts], to extensive rapids in its vicinity, which, though passed by boats, greatly obstruct the navigation. The worst of the obstructions have been removed, and the trade of the town has increased. Pop. 4000. BORROWSTOUNNESS. or BO NESS, a bor. of barony, seaport, and par. Scotland, co. Linlithgow, r. bank, Frith of Forth. The town is situated on low ground, 1 7 m. W. by N. Edinburgh ; lat. 56 1 N. ; Ion. 3 36 W. It consists of BOREIOL 457 BOSCO two principal streets, and numerous narrow lanes ; and hai altogether an exceedingly irregular and confused appearance Its general condition also, as regards cleanliness, c., is very indifferent, although somewhat improved in this respect of late years- There are some good houses in the town, but many of an inferior description, and most of them much blackened by the smoke of surrounding manufactories. The town is lighted with gas, but extremely ill supplied with water. The townhouse, though now never used as such, is a large, square, castellated building, with a tower at each corner. There are a parish, a United Presbyterian, and a Free church, all substantial, but plain buildings; and six schools, several of which are taught by females. The parish school is the largest, and is (1850) attended by nearly 200 children. There are sc ral religious, benevolent, and provident societies, and a good public library. The working population are mostly employed in a pottery within the town, and in extensive ironworks, and numerous coal mines, in the vicinity. Close by, there are also a chemical work, and a distillery ; and a considerable busin is done in corn. The harbour, which is of safe and easy access, is formed by two piers carried out into the frith. It is 240 ft. broad and 568 ft. long, with a depth of water, at spring tides, of from 16 to 20 ft. Registered shipping, in 1847, 5857 tons. The number of vessels that entered the port, in the same year, was 185; tonn. 12,390. About 60 years since, Borrowstounness had eight ships engaged in the whale-fishing ; there is now but one. Salt also was manufactured here, and exported to the extent of 37,000 bushels annually, but it has now altogether ceased. Borrowstounness is one of the oldest seaports in Scot land, having been the great emporium of commerce with Hol land and the Baltic in the 17th century. The PARISH is about 4 m. in length and 2 in breadth, and nearly the whole of it arable. The great wall of Antoninus, commonly called Graham s Dyke, traverses it, and is supposed to have termin ated hereabouts. Pop. of tn. and par. (1841), 2347, being 462 less than in 1831. (Local Correspondent.) BORRIOL, a tn. Spain, Valencia, prov. of, and 4 in. N.N.W. Castellon-de-la-Plana, at the foot of a steep hill, and in the vicinity of an extensive and fertile plain. It is regu larly built ; and has a parish church, which, though small, is handsome ; a consistorial house, of modern construction ; and several endowed and well-attended schools. Borriol is of great antiquity, and contains numerous Roman remains. Pop. 2069. BORRIS, several small tns., vils., and pars., Ireland: 1, Borris-in-Ossory, a market tn. Queen s co., 5f m. E. Ros- crea ; consisting of one long street, of mean appearance ; and having a bridewell, dispensary, and small market-house. Pop. 821. 2, Borris-o -Kane, a small tn. and par., co. Tipperary, 8 m. N. by W. Nenagh, llm. S.W. Birr ; having a church, R. Catholic chapel, and places of worship for Wesleyans and Baptists ; several schools, a bridewell, fever hospital, and dis pensary. Area of par. 5128 ac. Pop. 3175. 3, Borris-o - Leagh, a small tn., co. Tipperary, 5 m. S.W. by S. Temple- more ; with a dispensary. Pop. 1438. 4, Borrisleagh, par. Tipperary; 11,939 ac. Pop. 3372. 5, Boms or Borris- Idrone, vil. Carlow, 14 m. N. New Ross, on the Borris rivulet ; consisting of a single row of houses, extending parallel to the boundary of the demesne of Borris Castle. Here are a R. Catholic chapel, school, fever hospital, and dispensary. Pop. 950. 6, Borrismore, par. Kilkenny; 1271 ac. Pop. 267. BORROWDALE, a small dist. England, co. Cumberland, par. of Crosthwaite, 6 m. S. Keswick ; chiefly famous for the production of black-lead or wad, as it is provincially called, in great abundance, and of the finest quality. The scenery of the district is extremely beautiful ; and near a lake at the lower extremity of the dale is a salt spring, resembling that of Cheltenham. Pop. 369. BORROWMEAN ISLES [anc. Insula Cuniculares], situ ated in a bay of Lake Maggiore, and belonging to Sardinia, in Piedmont, prov. Novara. Their names are Isola Madre, Isola Bella, and Isola Superiore. The first is the largest, contains a fine garden, and has great natural beauty. The second is the most celebrated, and is greatly visited on account of a vast unfinished palace of Count Borromeo, which occupies one end of it ; its fine terraced gardens, rising from the edge of the lake in a pyramidal form, lined with statues, vases, obelisks, and black cypresses ; and in which, owing to the extreme mildness of the climate, not merely the orange, VOL. I. citron, myrtle, and pomegranate, but the camphor-tree, sugar cane, and other tropical plants, flourish in the open air. The surface was originally barren slate, and every handful of mould is artificial. The third island contains a small fishing village. BORSA, a vil. Hungary, co. Marmaros, on the Viso, 46 m. S.E. Szigeth. It stands at the mouth of the gorge of Tater- Volgye, which leads into Bukowina ; and in its neighbourhood are mines of argentiferons lead and copper. Pop. 3478. Several other small places in Hungary have the same name. BORSOD, a co. Hungary, circle, this side the Theiss ; divided into four dists., Miskolcz (containing the cap. of co. of same name) Erlau, Szendro, and Szent Peter; area, 1043 geo. sq. m. Its surface is partly hilly, partly alluvial ; and the soil, in general extremely fertile, producing abundant crops of grain and a good deal of wine. On the pastures and morasses, some of which are of great extent, numerous cattle are reared. The forests furnish excellent timber, of various kinds, and abound with game. The rivers, of which the principal are the Theiss, Sago, Hernad, Bodva, Szinyva, and Hezo, teem with fish. The chief mineral is iron, which is worked to a considerable extent, and partly converted into steel. Pop. 216,500. The VILLAGE of Borsod, which gives its name to the county, stands on the Bolva, dist. of, and about 5 m. from Szendro ; is the property of several noble families ; and contains a Re formed church, and an old castle. Two other small places, one in this county and the other in Bacs, have the same name. BORSSELE, or BRAMSALE, originally two islands, Holland, prov. Zeeland, but now part of S. Beveland, by means of gradual acquisitions from the river and the sea. History shows that its villages have to sustain a constant struggle to defend what they have taken from the surrounding waters, to which they have had more than once to give back what they had attempted to enclose. BORSTALL, par. Eng. Bucks ; 3080 ac. Pop. 252. BORT, a tn. France, dep. Correze, 14 m. S.E. Ussel, r. bank, Dordogne, here crossed by an ancient bridge, leading to the principal suburb. It has manufactures of linen, held in high estimation throughout the S. of France, tanneries, breweries, and wax bleacheries, with a considerable trade in agricultural produce and live stock. Marmontel was a native ofBort. Pop. 1685. BORTHWICK [anc. LocJierwarf], a par. Scotland, co. Edinburgh, 6 m. in length, and 4 in breadth. The ancient uninhabited castle of Borthwick, built, in 1430, by the first Lord Borthwick, in the valley of that name, is one of the finest old structures in Scotland. It was frequently visited by Mary, Queen of Scots, and was the scene of several pas sages of painful interest in the history of her unhappy con nection with the infamous Bothwell. Pop. 1617. BORTIGAL1, a vil., isl. Sardinia, prov. Cagliari, pleas antly situated on a hill, in a healthy district, about 40 m. S.E. Sassari. Pop. 2500. BORTSCHE-BEEK, a small stream, Holland, forming the boundary between Gelderland and Overijssel, between Zutphen and Deventer. BOSA, a seaport tn., W. coast, isl. Sardinia, division, Cape Sassari, 18 in. S.S.E. Alghero, near the mouth of the Terno; lat. 40 17 N.; Ion. 8 27 E. The town is built partly on the side of a hill, on the summit of which is an old castle, now in ruins, and partly in an unhealthy plain. It is surrounded by walls in bad repair, and has a cathedral, and other Gothic churches ; several monasteries, and a theological minary. A bishop, suffragan to the Archbishop of Sassari, resides here. The port is inconsiderable, and admits only small vessels. Wine, grain, and cheese, are exported from t, and it is frequented by the Genoese, who come here to fish coral, fine specimens of which are found on the coast. Pop. 6500. BOSBURY-wiTH-UPLEADER, par. Eng. Hereford ; 5200 ac. Pop. 1137. BOSCASTLE, a small seaport, England, co. Cornwall, 5 m. N.N.W. Camelford, with a commodious quay, and a con siderable trade in corn, slate, and manganese, of which last ;here is a mine in the vicinity. Pop. 807. BOSCO. 1, A tn. Sardinia, Piedmont, dist. of, and 8 m. S.S E. Alexandria, in the midst of a forest. It possesses a ine library, and is the birthplace of Pope Pius V. Pop. 2680. 2, Two towns, Naples, the one called Bosco Tre 53 BOSCOMBE 458 BOSNIA Case, and tlie other Bosco Reale. They stand at a short distance from each other, at the S. foot of Mount Vesuvius, and contain several churches and convents ; also a royal manu factory of arms, and a powder-mill. A famous pate is made here, and good wine and much silk produced in the district. Pop. of Bosco Tre Case, 2355 ; of Bosco Reale, 5046. BOSCOMBE, par. Eng. Wilts; 2000 ac. Pop. 156. BOSHAM, par. Eng. Sussex; 3860 ac. Pop. 1091. BOSHEST ON, par., 8. Wales, co. Pembroke. Pop. 225. BOSJESMANS, or BUSHMEN, a race supposed to have descended, at a remote period, from the Hottentots ; and the remnant of which for they are now nearly extinct are to be met with chiefly in the Karroos or desert plains lying between the district of Clan William and the Orange river, Cape of Good Hope colony. They are of remarkably low stature, olive colour, small twinkling eyes, thick projecting lips, and small depressed nose ; altogether, their appearance is singu larly repulsive, being at once diminutive and deformed. They have long been a persecuted race, having been shot down like wild beasts by the boors of the colony, who were in the habit of boasting of the numbers they had slain. The miserable remnant of this ill-fated tribe lead a life of great wretched ness. Holes scraped in the earth serve them as houses, in which no other domestic utensil is found than a wild gourd or ostrich egg-shell, to carry water. In seasons of scarcity they devour all kinds of wild roots, ants, ants eggs, locusts, snakes, &c. Their most efficient weapon is the bow and arrow, which they use with great dexterity at short distances : the arrow is poisoned, and speedily fatal in its effects. Notwithstanding their most unprepossessing personal appearance, the Bosjesmans are remarkable for vanity, and are at great pains in decorating their figures. Though reckoned the lowest in civilization of all the inhabitants of S. Africa, they are the only tribe that practise instrumental music and painting. BOSKOOP, a large vil. Holland, prov. S. Holland, 10J m. S.E. Leyden, on the Gouwe, with a handsome Reformed church. Its central position makes it a bustling place, from the perpetual passing of vessels from Amsterdam, Leyden, the Hague, &c., to Gouda, the Ijssel, Zeeland, Brabant, and other provinces. Boskoop is famed for its butter and beef; also for its nursery-grounds, the timber and fruit-trees, and like wise the strawberries and other small fruit raised here, being much in request. The local branches of industry are very various ; comprising the manufacture of agricultural and hor ticultural implements; also shipbuilding, tanworks, corn-mills, wooden-shoe making, and, among the poor, the manufacture of sulphur matches, from stalks of hemp. Pop. 1884. BOSKOWITZ, a tn. and lordship, Moravia, circle, Briinn. The TOWN, which is about 22 m. N.N.E. Briinn, is fortified ; has a modern palace, belonging to Count Francis of Dietrich- stein, with some fine pictures ; a parish church, a synagogue, potash and alum work, and several mills. The LORDSHIP, area, 33 geo. sq. m., has a pop. of 10,389. BOSNA, a river, Turkey in Europe, prov. Bosnia. It rises in the hilly district in the S.W. part of the province, flows N., and falls into the Save, in lat. 45 7 N.; Ion. 19 31 E. ; total course, exclusive of windings, 95 m. BOSNA-SERAi, SERAI, or SERAJEVO [anc. Tiberiopolis], a city, Turkey in Europe, cap. prov. Bosnia, situated on the Migliazza, which is here crossed by a handsome stone bridge, 570 m. W.N.W. Constantinople. It is well built, and, al though most of the houses are of wood, has a gay and pleasant appearance, from the number of steeples and minarets with which it is embellished. It contains a serai or palace, built by Mahomet II., to which the city owes its name; 100 mosques, great and small ; four churches, three monasteries, two large bazaars, several schools, baths, and charitable in stitutions. It was formerly surrounded with walls, but these are now completely decayed ; and its only remaining defence is a citadel, built on a rocky height at a short distance E. from the town, mounted with cannon. Bosna is the chief mart in the province, the centre of the commercial relations between Turkey, Dalmatia, Croatia, and S. Germany ; and has, in con sequence, a considerable trade. The people are industrious, and manufacture arms and utensils of copper, for the Turkish market ; ironware, woollen and worsted stuffs, morocco leather, horse-hair bags (for holding rice), cottons, &c. There are also several tanneries in the city, and, at a short distance .from it, several important iron mines ; and, on a plain which stretches to the W., the baths of Serajevesko. Pop. 60,000 ; of which 40,000 are Turks, 3000 Catholics, and the remainder Greeks and Jews. BOSNIA [Turkish, Botchmah-IK], a prov. Turkey in Europe, sometimes extended so as to include Turkish Croatia, Herzegovinia, and Bosnia Proper, but more correctly confined to the last, which lies between lat. 42 35 and 45 20 N., and Ion. 17 10 and 21 E. ; and is bounded, N. by the Save, which separates it from Austria, E. by Servia, S. by Albania and Mon tenegro, S.W. by Herzegovinia, and W. by Turkish Croatia ; greatest length, from S.E. to N.W., 240 m.; average breadth, 65 m. ; area, variously estimated, but probably about 1 6,000 sq. m. Bosnia is not very regular in shape, but bears some resemblance to a triangle, which has its base on the Save, and gradually narrows to its apex in the S.E. Viewed generally, it may be regarded as a plateau, which has its highest eleva tion in the S.,and slopes partly from S. to N.,and partly from S.W. to N.E. Its surface is much broken by mountains, which have an average height exceeding 6000 ft., and consist of ramifications of the Dinaric Alps. The principal range stretches, from N.W. to S.E., along the frontiers of Bosnia, presenting, towards Montenegro and Albania, a lofty mural face of calcareous rocks, apparently of secondary formation. The same formation, containing the sandstones and shales of the carboniferous system, and also, it is said, beds of coal, is general throughout the country. Valuable minerals, includ ing the precious metals, quicksilver, &c., abound ; but the working of them, for some reason or other, is prohibited, or at least discountenanced by the Turks. The only metals wrought are iron and lead. The principal rivers are, the Verbas, Bosna, which gives its name to the province, and Drin. They all take their rise in the principal range above mentioned, and proceed, in a course in the main N., to join the r. bank of the Save ; thus belonging, in common with it, to the great basin of the Danube. The valleys in which these rivers flow are steep, and confined in the S., but gradually widen out in ap proaching the N. ; still, however, continuing to be too much broken and inclined to deserve the name of plains. The only proper plain of Bosnia occupies the centre of the province, having its greatest length, N.W. to N.E., above 50 m., with an average breadth of 20 m. It forms an extensive basin enclosed by mountains, and appears formed by the prolonga tion of their basis. It is not uniformly level, but broken by numerous small protuberances. The strata, as indicated by these, consists of calcareous and schistous rocks ; but the sur face is covered by a thick bed of yellowish clay, evidently a lacustrine deposit, indicating that the whole basin had once been the bed of a lake. The climate of Bosnia, considering its latitude, is severe. The warm winds of the S. and S.E. can scarcely reach it, being intercepted by the mountain ridges in those directions ; while the valleys, lying open to the N. and N. W., give free access to the colder winds. In the moun tains exceeding 3000 ft., night frosts begin in the end of Sep tember ; and, even in the lower grounds, snow begins to fall in the end of October, and often continues on the ground till late in spring. Frost and snow cover the higher plateau till the end of April. Bosnia being, geographically, only a part of the mountain belt which girds the tertiary plains of Hun gary, strongly resembles that country in its vegetation. The loftiest summits are generally bare, but the descending slopes are densely clad with the oak, beech, and pine, which afford excellent timber, and shelter great numbers, both of larger and smaller game, the hunting of which is too often preferred by the inhabitants to more settled employment. The walnut grows at 1 500 ft. above the level of the sea. On the lower slopes fruits of various kinds are grown, particularly cherries and prunes, from the latter of which a weak brandy is exten sively made. The vine thrives in low and sunny vales, and would grow in many other spots where its culture is not at tempted. The wine made is of indifferent quality ; and the inhabitants, probably on good grounds, instead of forcing the culture of grapes, prefer that of prunes, on which they can cal culate for a surer crop. Pears and apples are of excellent qual ity; and a good deal of cider, as well as a spissated apple-juice, called pckmes, is made. Much of the country is incapable of cultivation, but the great plain and the wider valleys are fertile, and yield good crops of wheat, rye, barley, and oats. In the mountainous districts, a kind of black corn (called in Turkish, Arnaout-darese) is commonly grown. Maize is grown only BOSPORUS STRAIT 459 BOSTON in low valleys, particularly those to the N. of Sarajevo ; tobacco and hemp on alluvial flats, on the banks of rivers, and haricots, to a great extent, in the great plain. The potato thrives well, and flax is frequently seen in mountain valleys of considerable height. The mountain pastures are excellent, and feed large flocks of sheep and goats. From a mixture of these, milk and excellent cheese, resembling C-ruyere, is made. Manufactures are comparatively insignificant. Iron is mined, smelted, and manufactured, to some extent at Voinitza, and good linen cloth is made in the S. of the pro vince ; as at Roujai, coarse woollen covers are made in several places, and bear a high name, both for quality and cheapness. To these may be added the Russian leather manufactured, particularly at Sarajevo and Visoka, and earthenware, espe cially that of Central Bosnia, where the manufacture of a species of yellow vases, extensively used throughout the country, has long had its principal seat. Trade, for which several districts are well situated, is rendered almost imprac ticable by the state of the roads, and the quantity of wood and debris, which is allowed to choke up and impede the naviga tion of the rivers. The principal exports are fruit, chiefly prunes, and wax. Bosnia is governed by a Vizir, who has under him two Pashas of one tail, arid several Agas. For judicial purposes, it is divided into 64 cadilouks. The people are of Servian extraction, and about two-thirds of them are Mahometans. The remainder profess Christianity. Bosnia, after the irruption of the Sclavonians, Croats, and Servians, into Turkey, passed to different masters, particularly Hun gary; and sometimes maintained its existence as an independ ent State. It ultimately fell under the domination of the Turks, and yields them a reluctant allegiance, which it has repeatedly attempted, and only wants a favourable opportunity, to throw off. Pop. 700,000. BOSPORUS STRAIT, or CHANNEL of CONSTANTINOPLE [often incorrectly written Bosphorus; Turkish, Boghaz; Latin, Bosporus Thracius], a narrow passage which connects the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara, and separates Europe >. a. c It So . ^M^vr - BOSPORUS, from Asia; it is about 17 m. long, and varies in width from a half to 1^ m. A current sets constantly through it from the Black Sea, running with great violence and rapidity when the wind is from the N.E., but hardly perceptible when it blows from the opposite quarter, namely, the S.W. The depth of water is considerable, and the navigation safe. At its S. entrance, which is rather more than 1 m. wide, are two lighthouses, one on either side ; that on the right or E. shore is situated on a hilly point of laud, about 1 in. to the S.W. of the ruins of Kavac Serai ; the other, on the left or W. side, stands a little to the S. of the celebrated mosque of St. Sophia. The former light may be seen from a distance of about 5 m., the latter from about 10 m. On entering the Bosporus from this end, the voyager has the city of Constantinople, the Golden Horn or harbour of Perami, and the suburbs of Ga- lata, Pera, and Tophana, on the left ; and on the right, the town of Scutari, in Asiatic Turkey. At the N. entrance of the strait there are also two lighthouses, which exhibit fixed lights on an improved principle, one on either side, with a fortress near each, and a few houses. This entrance is diffi cult to make by vessels, and the attempt is often attended with the most disastrous consequences, the danger being in creased by a false entrance about 15 m. E. from the real one. The scenery along the banks of the channel is extremely beautiful magnificent palaces, of which no fewer than 10 are imperial summer residences, and most of them on the Asiatic side, handsome houses and noble gardens being thickly dis tributed over the face of the country in the vicinity of the strait, on both sides, alternated with picturesque cliffs of jas per, porphyry, and agate. Animals and vegetables of every variety abound in this favoured region. At the narrowest part of the channel, about 8 m. from its S. entrance, occur the two castles or forts, called, respectively, Roumeli Ilissar, and Anadoli Ilissar; the former on the W. or European side, and the latter on the E. or Asiatic. The Bosporus was, in ancient times, remarkable for its tunny-fishery, which is still a source of considerable profit to the inhabitants. The rivers, great and small, that fall into the strait, are said to amount to 30 in number. The Bosporus of Constantinople is called the Thracian Bosporus, to distinguish it from the Cimmerian Bos porus, the narrow channel that connects the Sea of Azof with the Black Sea, now called the Straits of " enikale. By a treaty executed in 1829, between the Russians and the Porte, the navigation of the Bosporus was opened to the merchant ships of all nations. BOSRA, or BOSTRA. See BOSZUA. BOSSALL, par. Eng. York, N. Hiding; 8880 ac. P. 1181. BOSTAN (EL), [anc. Comana], a tn. Turkey in Asia, Natolia, pleasantly situated on a fine plain, on the Syhoun. A considerable trade in wheat is carried on here with the Turkomans. The town can be surrounded with water at any time, should the attack of an enemy be threatened. It con tains four mosques, one of which is very ancient. El Bostan (Comana) was celebrated in remote times for the worship of Ma, the Cappadocian Bclluna ; the population then consisting principally of soothsayers, priests, and slaves belonging to the high-priest. BOSTON, a seaport, market tn., and bor. England, co. Lincoln, 100 m. N. London, and 28 m. S.E. Lincoln; lat. 53 N. ; Ion. 2 W., on a plain, on both banks of the Witham. It has two principal streets, called, respectively, High Street and Bargate, one on each side of the river ; and a number of smaller streets and lanes, all generally clean, and most of them well paved. There is also a spacious market place near the centre of the town. It is lighted with gas, and abundantly supplied with excellent water, brought from a dis tance of 14 m. in iron pipes. The houses are almost entirely of brick, there being no stone quarries in the vicinity. An iron bridge over the Witham, of a single arch, 86 ft. span, erected at an expense of upwards of 20,000, connects the two divisions or wards of the town. The church, built in 1309, is a noble structure, and is the largest parish church without cross aisles in the kingdom ; the width of the nave, including the side aisles, being 100 ft., and the extreme length, 300 ft. The tower, 282 ft. in height, on the plan of that of the cathedral of Antwerp, is surmounted by an elegant octagonal lantern, forming a conspicuous landmark for sailors, being visible at sea from a great distance. The other places of worship are, a chapel of ease, a Baptist, Methodist (Wesleyan and Primi tive), Independent, Unitarian, and a II. Catholic chapel. Tha charitable institutions are very numerous, the funds admini stered by the charity trustees exceeding 2000 per annum ; a staff of clergy for the parish church are supported out of this fund, and the free grammar-school, founded by the Royal Charter of Philip and Mary; the other schools are, a blue-coat school, for 33 boys and 33 girls ; Laughton s school, for 25 BOSTON 460 BOSTON boys, founded in 1707 ; with one upon Dr. Bell s system, and another on the national plan. There is also a dispensary, a mechanics institution, permanent library and news -room (founded in 1799), library of the people, working-man s so ciety, and several subscription book-clubs, but none of great magnitude, or very flourishing. The public edifices not yet noticed are, the guild hall (an ancient structure), the borough jail, the assembly rooms, and the session s-house, completed in 1844, at an expense of 15,000. There are in the town branches of the Stamford and Boston Banking Company and the National Provincial Bank, with two private banks, a cus tom-house, a pilot office, and a large fish market. On the banks of the \Vitham are commodious baths, surrounded by ornamental gardens. Boston can hardly be said to have any manufactures, beyond a few iron-foundries, where a number of steam thrashing- machines, have been lately made ; and some shipbuilding, there being two building yards with patent slips, where ves sels of 200 tons can be constructed. Its shipping trade, how ever, is considerable. Up to 1751, an accumulation of silt in the river greatly impeded the navigation, but the channel has been deepened, and the harbour enlarged, so that vessels of 250 tons can now unload at the quay. The exportation of wool formerly constituted a very extensive portion of its trade ; at present the exports consist chiefly of corn, and other agricultural produce. The principal imports are timber, hemp, tar, and iron, from the Baltic. The number of vessels regis tered at the port on December 31, 1847, was 186; tonn. 8753. The number of vessels entered during the year ending same date was 1988 ; tonn. 95,370; cleared, 691 ; tonn. 29,629. As already stated, the principal trade of Boston is in grain, of which 220,000 quarters are, on an average, sold annually. The following Table shows the extent of the trade for five consecutive years : Grain sold in 1841... 1842.. 1843... 1844... 1845... 222,369 quarters. 235,463 207,0 J9 197,153 222.9U3 It is worthy of note, that Boston, at one period, namely, A.D. 1204, ranked second in mercantile importance among the English seaports, if we may judge from the amount of a tax levied on them ; London paid 836, Boston 780, Southamp ton 712, Lynn 651. (Madox s History of the Exchequer.) The healthiness of Boston has been improved, and its general prosperity materially increased, by draining the sur rounding fens, which now form a rich tract of nearly 70,000 ac. The market-days are Wednesday and Saturday, when an ex tensive business is done in corn and wool ; large quantities of soles and smelts are taken in Boston deeps, and sold in the market. A cattle market is held once a week, sometimes twice ; and there are four important annual fairs. Boston received its first charter of incorporation from Henry VIII. By the Municipal Act of 1835, the government of the town was vested in a mayor, six aldermen, and 18 councillors, with the usual assistant officers. Petty sessions are held every Friday; the general sessions quarterly ; and the county courts monthly. Boston sends two members to the House of Com mons. Eegistered electors (1849), 1206. The early history of Boston is obscure, but it is believed that the Romans built a fort at the mouth of the Witham. The monastery built by St. Botolph was destroyed by the Danes in 870, but was afterwards rebuilt on the N. side of the site of the present church. Its remains were lately visible in a dwelling- house called Botolph s Priory, which is now pulled down, and the new sessions house stands on this site. In the Middle Ages, it became a place of considerable commercial importance, second only to the metropolis itself. In 1281, the town suf fered much from fire ; and in 1285 was greatly injured by an inundation. By 27 Edward III., it was made a staple port for wool, leather, tin, lead, and other commodities ; and the Hanseatic merchants who settled in England here established a guild. Boston afterwards suffered by the plague, and by inundations, to which its low situation rendered it particularly liable ; but the principal cause of its decline was the increas ing difficulty of the navigation of the Witham. The channel having been improved, and being now kept clear, the former prosperity of the place has been in some degree restored. John Foxe, the celebrated martyrologist, was a native of the town. Boston has direct railway communication with London through Peterborough, and with the W., through Lincoln, by means of the Great Northern line, opened in October 1848; and with Hull, by the East Lincolnshire Railway, opened at the same time. Pop. (1841), 14,618. (Thompson s History of Boston; Noble s Gay. of Lincoln ; Parliamentary Papers ; Local Correspondent.) BOSTON, a vil. England, co. York, W. Riding, 3 m. S.S.E. Wetherby, in a valley, r. bank, Wharfe. It consists of one principal street ; houses generally of stone, and sub stantially built. The church is a neat structure, with a tower. Boston is chiefly noted for its saline springs, and is nearly altogether supported by the visitors who resort thither to benefit by them. Pop. 1014. (Local Correspondent.) BOSTON, a city, U. States, cap. Massachusetts, co. Suf folk, situated principally on a peninsula, 3 in. long, and 1 m. broad, at the W. extremity of Massachusetts Bay ; lat. 42 21 24" N.; Ion. 71 4 30" W. (11.) ; 210 m. N.E. New 1. State-house. I 5. Court-house. I 9. Nvy YHI 2 New fust.. m-luusc. . City Hall. 10. Buuker l il. Ftinriiil Hull. 7. Athenaeum. II. House of Imlustry. 1. Exchange. | U. MassuchusiUs llospitu!. | 12. House ol Itc-foi mutton. York. Boston consists of three parts, Old Boston on the peninsula, S. Boston on the S. side of the harbour, and E. Boston, built within the last 15 years, situated on an island, and communicating with Old Boston by a steam ferry, which starts every five minutes from each side. The promontory on which it is built is connected with the mainland by a nar row isthmus, called the Neck, about 1 m. in length. It is well situated for commerce, and is a place of great trade and opulence. In the older parts of the town, the streets are narrow and crooked, the houses small, and constructed of wood ; but in the newer portions, the streets are wide and straight, the houses spacious, and many of them built of granite, though the greater part are of brick. This change for the better is gradually pervading the whole city. Communication with the mainland is maintained by six different bridges. The principal public buildings are the state-house, situated on Beacon Hill, forming a conspicuous object from a distance, and from which one of the finest views in the U. States is obtained ; Faneuil Hall market, an elegant market-house of granite ; Faneuil Hall, in which public meetings are held ; the city hall or old state-house, an old building used for public offices ; tiie Massachusetts hospital, a handsome granite building, 168 ft. long by 54 wide, with 4 ac. of open ground around it, on the bank of Charles river ; the custom-house, a splendid granite building, of Grecian architecture. There BOSTON 461 BOSZKA r.re, besides, nearly one hundred churches in the city, many of them very handsome structures. Among the public places, the Common is the most important. It occupies the S. de W. side is a botanical garden, containing about 25 ac. The literary institutions are also creditable to the intelligence of the citizens. The public libraries contain 70,000 volumes, and are ^UUHIHMI 1 tllC UlUaii lUJyiFA LailL. Al/ WK^I.I|JIGO 111^ KJ. M.U ,,,., f A 1_ T> i. A *1 ,,*, ^^.r. ty of Beacon Hill, and contains about 50 ac. On its I yearly increasing. The library of the Boston Athenaeum con- - tains 30..000, and that of Harvard College, 40,000. There are 30 newspapers published in Boston, eight of which are daily. Besides these, there are a number of magazines and reviews, including the North American Review, a work of European as well as American reputation. Its principal literary societies are, the American academy of arts and sciences, the Massa chusetts historical society, and the Boston natural history society, which has a fine cabinet. It contains, likewise, two theatres the Tremont and the National theatre. The medi cal branch of Harvard University has its seat in Boston, and schools are numerous, and in general well conducted. There are also a number of religious and charitable societies in the city. The harbour is esteemed one of the best in the U. States, being spacious, safe, and easily defended. The passage to it is not more than 4 m. wide, with several islands obstructing it, so that the main entrance will scarcely admit two vessels to pass abreast, while 500 may ride at anchor within, with a good depth of water. The outer harbour has about 40 small islands, 15 of which afford excellent pasturage. The wharfs are extensive, commodious, and some of them of great length, with ranges of lofty brick warehouses. The trade of Boston is extensive. The imports consist principally of woollen, cotton, linen, and silk manufactures, sugar, coffee, indigo, hemp, and iron ; and the exports chiefly of fish, and fish oils, salted meat, flour, soap, candles, and ice. In 1852 the total value of the foreign exports of cotton manufacture amounted to 616,019; and the total foreign imports amounted to 6,797,428. In the same year the aggregate tonnage of the shipping amounted to 381,088 tons. Three-fourths of the trade between Russia and the U. States, and above half of that with India, passes through Boston. There are, besides, a packet line of large steam-ships between Boston and Great Britain, and other packet lines to every port of importance throughout the U. States. Six different lines of railway connect Boston with various places in the state. A line also communicates with the state of Maine, passing through New Hampshire. Boston has a history of some interest. It was founded in 1630, by the settlers established at Charlestown, on the shore of Massachusetts Bay. The name was given in compliment to the Rev. John Cotton, a persecuted clergyman from Boston in Lincolnshire. It was here that the revolutionary move ment, which terminated in the independence of America, first commenced, several of its most active leaders being natives of the city. Boston was the scene also of hostilities connected with that event. The royalist forces under General Howe, were here blockaded by the American troops under General BOSTON, from above CholKa BrirtireAfler L.Lebret fr! ato/e^ Putnam, but the latter were ultimately dislodged from their position on 0brhester heights, after a serious loss on the part of the British. During this action, usually named Bunker s Hill, fought in June 1775, Charlestown, a suburb of the city, and the scene of action, was set on fire by the latter, and entirely consumed. A month afterwards, Boston was invested by Washington, and the British General event ually (March 1776), compelled to evacuate the town. The city is governed by a mayor, eight aldermen, and a common council of 48 members. The well-known philosopher, Benja min Franklin, was a native of Boston, having been born there on January 17, 1706. Pop. (1840), 93,383 ; (1850), 136,881. BOSWELL S (ST.), a par. Scotland, co. Roxburgh, on the Tweed, chiefly noted for the great annual fair held on 18th July, for sheep, horses, cattle, wool, linen cloth, and various other articles ; area, 2600 ac. Pop. 348. BOSWOETH (HUSBANDS), par. Eng. Leicester ; 3870 ac. Pop. 953. , BOSWORTH MARKET, a market tn. and par. Eng land, co. Leicester. The town is agreeably situate on an emi nence, in a fertile district, 11 m. W. by S. Leicester ; has a parish church, a handsome edifice, in the perpendicular style, with a tower surmounted by an elegant spire, and chapels for Independents and Baptists ; a well-endowed free grammar- school, in which the celebrated lexicographer, Dr. Samuel Johnson, was once usher. The manufacture of worsted stockings employs many persons in the town and neighbour hood. The battle of Bosworth, between Richard III. and the Earl of Richmond, afterwards Henry VII., and the closing scene of the long-protracted struggle between the houses of York and Lancaster, was fought (1458) on an extensive moor 3 m. S.E. the town. Area of par. 7220 ac. Pop. 2539. BOSZORMEN Y, two places, Hungary:!, A municipal to., co. Bihar, 12 m. W.N.W. Grosswardein. Pop. 17,000. 2, A free tn., co. Szaboltz, 12 m. N.N.W. Debreczin, con taining a Reformed and a Greek church. Pop. 14,660. BOSZRA, BOZRAH, or BOSRA [the Bostra of the Greeks], a tn. Syria, 80 m. N.E. Jerusalem, anciently of great import ance, now, for the most part, a heap of ruins ; some of which, however, are magnificent, and mark the height from which the prostrate city has fallen. Amongst these are the great mosque, a triumphal arch, a castle of great strength, built by the Saracens ; and a vast reservoir for water ; besides numerous pillars, and other ruins of the most elaborate workmanship. The courses of the streets and alleys are almost wholly obli terated, and the few inhabitants that now remain are lost in the labyrinths of shattered edifices and crumbling walls, with BOTAFOGO 462 BOU SADA which they are surrounded. The vicinity was at one time celebrated for its vineyards ; but they have long since wholly Jisappeared. After the establishment of Christianity, it was an archbishop s see, with 19 bishoprics under its jurisdiction. Boszra is mentioned in several places in Scri|,-ture. BOTAFOGO, a considerable vil. Brazil, prov. of, and about 4 m. S.W. Rio de Janeiro, on a bay of same name, com municating with the Bay of Kio de Janeiro. This village, which is rapidly increasing in size, is composed of fine coun try houses, ranged in a semicircle round the N. margin of the bay. BOTANY BAY, a bay, New S. Wales, co. Cumberland, and so called by Captain Cook, the first discoverer of Aus tralia, on account of its profuse vegetation. It is capacious and safe, with an entrance about 1 m. wide, but afterwards enlarging to 3 m. Good anchorage is found in from 4 to 7 fathoms water, but both on the N. and S. side, and in the bottom of the bay, flats extend to a great distance from the shore, having only 4 or 5 ft. of water on them. The anchor age on the E. side, too, contiguous to the entrance of the bay, is exposed to heavy seas, from the E. winds. Cook landed here on his first voyage, in 1770, and took possession of the country in the name of his sovereign, calling it New S. Wales. Eight years afterwards, Government having resolved on founding a penal settlement in the S. hemisphere, sent out Governor Phillip, to establish such a settlement in Botany Bay. Finding it to possess the disadvantages above enumer ated, the Governor proceeded to Port Jackson, a few miles further N., and there planted the new colony, founding, at the same time, the now large and populous town of Sydney. BOTANY ISLAND, S. Pacific Ocean, off the S.E. ex tremity of New Caledonia ; lat. 22 27 S. ; Ion. 167 1 E. (R.) BOTEL TOBAGO (GREAT and LITTLE), two small islands, China Sea, off S.E. coast, isl. Formosa, from which they are distant about 45 m. The largest is in lat. 2 1 59 N. ; Ion. 121 38 E.; the smaller, in lat. 21 56 30" N. The former is 3 or 4 m. in extent, of considerable elevation, and the higher part crowned with trees. It is well inhabited, having several large villages on the S. portion. The latter, or Little Botel, which is about 2 or 2J m. to the S. E. of Great Botel, is also of considerable height, with some bushes on it. BOTESDALE, or BOTOLFH S-DALE, a tn. England, co. Suffolk, 13 m. N.N.E. Bury St. Edmund s, in a dale; and consisting of one street, nearly 1 m. long ; houses, chiefly of brick. It contains a chapel of ease, belonging to the estab lished church, a Baptist and AVesleyan Methodist chapels, and a free grammar-school, founded by Sir Nicholas Bacon, father of the celebrated Chancellor Bacon. Pop. G33. (Local Cor respondent,} MOTH ALL. par. Eng. Northumberland ; 8200 ac. P. 800. BOTHAMSALL, par. Eng. Notts ; 1630 ac. Pop. 325. BOTIIENHAMPTON, par. Eng. Dorset; 600ac. P.533. BOTHNIA (GULP OF), [Swedish, Batten Wiken], the N. portion of the Baltic Sea, beyond the Aland Isles, between Sweden and Russian Finland. Length, from N. to S., 400 m. ; extreme breadth, 136 m. Its depth is very various, round the small islands 4 fathoms, and elsewhere 20 to 50. It has fewer shoals than other parts of the Baltic, and its harbours are better. It receives a great number of considerable streams from Sweden, and several small ones from Russia. On its shores are the towns of Abo, Tornea, Hernbsand, c. BOTHNIA, BOTN, or BOTEN, a territory, N. Europe, both sides of the gulf to which it gives its name. It was composed of the provinces of E. and W. Bothnia, both of which once formed a portion of Sweden ; but the former now belongs to Russia, as well as a small part of the latter. E. Bothnia, or Oster-Botn, is now comprised in Russian Finland (which sec}. W. Bothnia, or Wester-Botn, is now comprised in the two Swedish Ian or counties of Umea and Pitea. BOTHWELL, a par. Scotland, co. Lanark, with vil. of same name. The PARISH, extreme length, about 8 m., ex treme breadth, 4 m., is rich in coal. In a picturesque hollow at the S.E. end of the village, through which runs the Clyde, is Bothwell Bridge, now much altered and improved, but originally of great antiquity, which gave name to the battle fought there between the Covenanters and the royal troops, under the Duke of Monmouth, on June 22, 1679, when the former were defeated. The ancient castle of Bothwell, a I magnificent ruin, once a stronghold of the Douglasses, is situated on the summit of a steep bank, sloping down to the Clyde, and, surrounded by fine woods, and extensive pleasure grounds, forms an exceedingly interesting and striking object. Joanna Baillie, the celebrated authoress, daughter of the Rev. James Baillie, at one time minister of the parish, was born in Bothwell manse. The VILLAGE consists chiefly of a row of houses on either side the road from Glasgow to Hamilton, about 8 m. S.E. the former, and 2 in. N.W. the latter. The houses are of stone, mostly of respectable, some of neat ap pearance ; the latter is more especially the characteristic of various recent erections, built to accommodate the increase of ! summer visitants since the opening of the Clydesdale Junc tion Railway, which has a station about a mile from Bothwell. I Besides the parish church, there is here a Free church, and some schools. Pop. of par. (1841), 11,175. BOTLEY, par. Eng. Hants; 3090 ac. Pop. 904. BOTOUSCHANI, or BOTTOSCHANY, a vil. Moldavia; carries on a considerable trade with Germany in wine, cattle, wool, honey, wax, and tobacco. Pop. 4500. BOTRIPHNIE, par. Scot. Banff; length, 4.J m. ; breadth, 3m. Pop. 714. BOTTESFORD, two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Lincoln; : 7470 ac. Pop. 1586. 2, Bottcsford, par. Leicester; 5010 ac. Pop. 1375. BOTTISH AM, par. Eng. Cambridge ; 4700 ac. P. 1 497. BOTTWNOG, par., N. Wales, Carnarvon. Pop. 191. BOTUSFLEMING,par.Eng.Cornwall; 1290 ac. P. 250. BOTZEN [Italian, Bolzano], a tn. Austria, Tyrol, gov. of, and 54 m. S. Innsbruck, at the confluence of the Talfer with the Eisack, near where these fall into the Adige. It is a well-built flourishing town, surrounded by a wall 2 m. in length, and in some places 24 ft. thick, built to protect it from a mountain-torrent close by. Its situation at the junction of the roads from Switzerland, Germany, and Italy, has secured it a share of the trade of these countries, rendering it a thoroughfare for the transit of goods, and making it the first trading town of the Tyrol. The parish church is a Gothic building of the 14th century, with an elegant spire; adjoin ing it is the new cemetery. The other objects worthy of notice are, the church of St. Nicholas, a gymnasium, custom house, two monasteries, a normal school, and a nunnery. It has also some silk and woollen manufactures, tanneries, dye- works, and a printing-office. Botzen is known principally for its four annual fairs, resorted to by commercial travellers from all parts of Italy and Germany. In the environs, wine and fruits are produced in abundance, and of excellent quality. The inhabitants of the town are chiefly German, but in the neigh bourhood a dialect of the Italian is spoken almost universally. It is thought that the town occupies the site of the ancient Roman citadel, Pons Druni. Pop. 10,000. The CIKCLE, area, 964 geo. sq. m., produces all kinds of grain, hemp, and flax. A great quantity of silk is produced, and some of the wines, particularly the Kochelberger and the Leitacher, are celebrated. The cheese of Botzen also bears a high name, and is largely exported. Pop. 107,072. BOU NOURA, a small tn. Algerian Sahara, S. slopes of the Atlas ; lat. 32 28 N. ; Ion. 2 E. It is walled, and has three gates ; and some trade in grain. BOU SADA, a tn. Algerian Sahara, lat. 35 33 N. ; Ion. 4 9 E. ; in a fertile site, amidst an arid plain, among the Atlas Mountains. It consists of 500 or 600 houses, and five mosques, divided into eight distinct quarters, each of which being surrounded with its own gardens, gives the whole the aspect of a cluster of villages. In one of these dwell the Jewish inhabitants, apart from the others. They have a syn agogue, and their own cemetery, and schools. Each quarter has its school, wherein are taught reading, writing, and re ligious precepts. The Rahbat-el-Nader or public market place has, daily, all the bustle of a fair ; and it is not un common to see 500 to 600 camels of burden there at once ; the town being, in fact, one of the greatest entrepots of N. Africa, and frequented by the people of many Arab tribes, who there exchange country products for local and foreign manufactures, of which part come from Algiers and Con- stantine. It is also a busy seat of industry, containing 40 soapworks, 10 smiths and armourers shops, several farriers forges, four dyeworks, and numerous shops for general wares. Each family makes its own vestments and pottery The BOUCHES-DU-EHONE 463 BOULAY Jews are employed either in commerce, or as wool-carders, tailors, dyers, goldsmiths, &c. BOUCHES-DU-RIIONE, a dep. France, Provence (cap. Marseille), situated, as its name implies, at the mouths of the Rhone; hounded, E. by dep. Var, N. by dep. Vaucluse, from which it is separated by the Durance, and W. by dep. Gard, from which it is separated by the main stream of the Rhone, as far as Aries, and thence to the sea by the W. branch of that river, and S. by the Mediterranean; between lat. 43 20 and 43 55 N. ; and Ion. 4 25 and 5 42 E. ; about 76 m. E. to W., by about 30 m. N. to S. Area, 1,267,088 ac., of which about one-half is under cultivation, the remainder being occu pied by forests, heaths, wastes, water, &c. A great portion of it is occupied by calcareous hills, the last elevations of the Alpine range in this direction, of which St. Victoire (3417 ft.) is the highest peak. Between the mountains are various basins, and towards the shore are extensive plains, sloping gently to the sea. Between the Rhone and the lagoon of Berre is the great plain of the Crau d Arles. Its borders are tolerably well cultivated, and support a number of cattle ; but the centre is little better than a desert of stones and pebbles, scantily mixed with reddish-brown earth, but affording winter pasture for sheep, which are fed on the pastures of Dauphiny in summer. The Rhone is the principal river. Near Aries it divides into two branches, leaving a large delta, called the Isle of Camargues ; other streams are the Durance, the Tou- loubre, the Are, and the Huveaune. Several canals facilitate transport, and are especially useful for irrigation. Some small islands in the Mediterranean belong to the department. The climate in general is very warm, with little rain during summer. A cold, and generally violent wind, called mistral, from the Cevennes, so invariably follows rain, that even a shower will bring it. It lasts from three to nine, and some times, though rarely, to twelve days ; and produces evapora tion, which dries the ground with astonishing rapidity. The soil of the department is generally arid and unproductive, without irrigation. Some alluvial spots are fertile, but the total produce of grain is inconsiderable, except in the territory of Aries. Vines, however, thrive, and some of the wines are esteemed, though seldom exported. The plains of Crau and Camargues produce many plants not indigenous in the N. of France. The cypress, laurel, and myrtle appear in the hedges ; the oleander along the streams ; the cistus and rosemary amidst the rocks ; and lavender, thyme, sage, and other odoriferous plants on the hills. Almonds, figs, capers, and nuts, and particularly olives, are extensively cultivated. The pastures are only used in winter, cattle being unable to endure the in tense summer heat, which likewise parches the grass. Coal, limestone, marble, alabaster, gypsum, clay for pottery and crucibles, &c., are found, but the minerals are of little com mercial importance. Salt is extensively manufactured from the lagoons ; and the saltworks of Berre are celebrated both for the quantity and quality of their produce. The articles manufactured are principally soap, brandy, olive-oil (the best in France), soda, chemical stuffs, vinegar, scents, essential oils, cloth, leather, articles in coral, silk, glass, tiles, bricks, tobacco, &c. The fisheries are numerous and productive. The tunny, anchovy, and sardine are caught on the coast, or in the lagoons, which, during winter, are also frequented by the numerous water-fowl that migrate from the N. of Europe. The common language of the people is a compound of Celtic, Greek, and Latin, mingled with Catalan and Italian, and is very expressive. The inhabitants are frank, hospitable, and sober, but excitable and passionate. They are robust, and industrious, have great natural vivacity, and an excessive propensity to buffoonery. The women of this part of France are celebrated for their personal attractions. Before the first Revolution, paternal authority was recognized to an extent now altogether unknown. The head of the family was its chief, and nothing was done without his sanction. This authority descended from father to son, and a general register was kept of domestic proceedings in a book, called the livre de raison. This book contained a record of titles, genealogies, partitions, divisions of property, inventory of movables, &c., and was contained in a chest appropriately sculptured, of which the head of the house alone kept the key. During the life time of the father, the eldest son made the entries in the livre de raison, and each was signed by the father, who, on winter nights, brought forth the family treasure, and caused it to be read for the general edification. Most of these singular books have now disappeared ; but some of them are still extant in the vicinity of Aries, and carry back the history of families to the time of Charles of Anjou, or even to a period more remote. Principal ports: La Vignole, Aries, Martigues, Port de Bouc, Ponteau, Marseille, Cassis, and La Ciotat. Pop. (1846), 413,918. BOUFARIK, a vil. Algeria, prov. of, and 16 m. S.S.W. Algiers. It has well-frequented markets, and is an important military station on the road from Algiers to Blidah and Oran. Pop. 2131. BOUGAINVILLE. 1, An isl., S. Pacific, one of the Solomon Group. Cape Friendship, near the E. end, is in lat. 6 44 S. ; Ion. 155 40 E. 2, A cape, N.\V. coast, Australia, forming the N.E. side of Admiralty Gulf; lat. 13 52 S.; Ion. 126 12 E. (K.) 3, A cape, Van Diemen s Land, E. coast, forming the W. entrance into Oyster Bay ; lat. 42 30 S.; Ion. 148 E. (R.) 4, Shoals or reefs, situated about 180 m. off the N.E. coast of Australia ; lat. 15 17 S. ; Ion. 147 57 E. BOUGHIIOOD, par. AVales, Radnor; 1000 ac. Pop. 322. BOUGHTON, several pars. England:!, par. Norfolk; 1500 ac. Pop. 209. 2, par. Northampton ; 1850 ac. Pop. 389. 3, par. Notts; 1630 ac. Pop. 309. 4, BougUon- Aluph, par. Kent; 2200 ac. Pop. 524. 5, Boughton-under Blean, par. Kent; 2390 ac. Pop. 1373. 6, Boughton- Malherbe, par. Kent; 2590 ac. Pop. 512. 7, BougUon- MoncMsea, par. Kent; 1740 ac. Pop. 1106. BOUGIAH [French, Bougie]^ a tn. Algeria, prov. of, and 113 m. E. Algiers, on the Mediterranean, near Cape Car bon. It is strongly fortified, and has a considerable garrison. It has no harbour, but the anchorage is secure. Consider able trade is carried on here in oil, honey, wax, betel, and grain ; and the town gave its name, Bougie, to the wax can dles, for the manufacture of which it has been long famous. It was formerly a place of great importance, and contains extensive and interesting remains of antiquity. The French troops took possession of it in September 1833. Pop., exclu sive of garrison, 467. BOUILLON, a tn. Belgium, prov. Luxembourg, 17m. "W.S.W. Neufchateau, 1. bank, Semoy, in a deep gorge of the Ardennes, and overlooked by a strong castle, built on the summit of an adjacent rock, commanded in its turn by the surrounding hills. The town is small, but regularly built ; and possesses two churches, a town-house, prison, hospital, poorhouse, and two schools. Manufactures : woollen stuffs, leather, and oil, with fulling, bark, and saw mills. Trade: hardware, cattle, oak-bark, &c. Bouillon was once capital of an ancient duchy of its name, and was the property of the famous Godfrey, loader of the first crusade, and subsequently King of Jerusalem. The duchy was annexed to the French republic in 1794, and the town was beseiged by the allied troops in 1815. The castle was restored to Belgium, and fortified, in 1827. Pop. 2510. BOUIN, a small isl. and com., W. coast, France, at the bottom of the bay of Bourgneuf, dep. La Vendee. It is separ ated from the mainland by a narrow channel, now crossed by a causeway. The circumference of the island is about 15m.; and although low and marshy, it has some excellent pastur age, and produces large quantities of salt, obtained from the salt marshes ; besides some corn, cattle, and horses. It con- :ains only one village, that of Bouin [anc. Bovinum], from svhicli the products of the island are exported. Pop. 2628. BOULAC, BOOLAC, or BULAK, a river port, Egypt, r. bank, Nile, 3 m. N. Cairo, of which it is the port. The houses, generally of one or two stories, line the river at the port, and present an indifferent appearance, excepting the palace of Ishmael Pasha, which is a singular compound of Italian, Greek, and Saracenic architecture. Here passengers for Suez and India debark ; and here is a custom-house, at which all duties on goods imported from Alexandria are levied. Boulac also has a school for engineers, a Government printing-house, i cotton-factory, a silk-mill, and some other manufacturing establishments. It was taken and burned by the French in 1799, and was rebuilt by Mahomet AH ; since which time it las become an important place. Pop. 13,200. BOULAY, a tn. France, dep. Moselle, 15 in. E.N E. Metz, r. bank, Nied. It is well built. The streets are regu- ar and spacious ; and the market-place, where the townhouse BOULEBANI 464 BOURBON stands, is of great extent, and adorned with a fountain. The parish church is large, and richly decorated. Its manufac tures are cloth, blankets, glue, ivory black, hardware, foil blades, cotton yarn, and leather. Pop. 2894. BOULEBANI, a tn., W. Africa, cap. Bondou, near 1. bank, Faleme"; lat. 14 W N.; Ion. 12 24 W. It lies in a large plain ; bounded, E. by low rocky hills, and on other sides by forests. The buildings, many of which are mere huts, are grouped together in clumps, the whole surrounded by a rudely embattled wall, pierced at intervals with gates. The streets, or rather, irregular passages around these groups of dwellings, are not paved or kept with the least regard to cleanliness ; although the place is famous for its spring water, and, indeed, takes its name from its wells. In the centre of the town is an area, on which stands a mosque, an extensive building, of very rude architecture, and the tata or fortified residence of the amamy, or sovereign of Bondou. Most of the people here are the slaves of the monarch, who draws a large revenue from their sale. Pop. about 2200. (Raffenel s Afrique Occidentale.) BOULGE, par. Eng. Suffolk; 700 ac. Pop. 45. BOULOGNE [anc. Bononia Parvd], a large and hand some vil. France, dep. Seine, 5 m. W. the centre of Paris, of which it forms a kind of suburb, between the wood of same name (Bois de Boulogne) and the Seine, which is here crossed by a stone bridge of twelve arches, leading across to St. Cloud. It is well built, and is especially celebrated for the promenades in its vicinity. The bois de Boulogne contains about 2400 ac. ; was replanted and remodelled by Napoleon, when he fixed his residence at St. Cloud. In 1815, the English troops encamped in it ; and it has recently suffered from the construction of the fortifications of Paris, which traverse one of its extremities. The wood is surrounded with walls, has eleven gates, and is intersected with an infinity of roads and avenues, which form the resort of the fashionable popu lation of the capital. Pop. 6906. BOULOGNE -SUR-MER |anc. jBononia], a seaport tn. France, dep. Pas de Calais, at the mouth of the Liane, 20 m. S.S.W. Calais ; lat. (column) 50 44 30" N.; Ion. 1 37 15" E. (R.) It is divided into the upper and lower town. The former, situated on an eminence, is surrounded with ramparts of ancient construction, along which is a promenade, from which a fine panoramic view is obtained, embracing not only the surrounding country, but extending across the Channel to the chalky cliffs of England, which, in dear weather, are dis tinctly visible. It contains the imperial palace, formerly inhabited by Napoleon ; and the house where Le Sage, author of Gil Bias, died. The Hotel de Ville occupies the site of the palace of the Counts of Boulogne. The castle, situated at a corner of the ramparts, was built in the 13th century, by Simon de Villers. On the ruins of the ancient cathedral, a modern cathedral is in course of erection, which, when com pleted, will far outstrip all the other public buildings of Bou logne. One of the gates lead down by a steep but spacious street, called the Grande Eue, to the lower town, which stands on a flat, and is well built in the modern style, and presents a greater appearance of activity and commerce than is usual in French towns. It has several churches, including an English Protestant church; a publiclibrary, containing25, 000 volumes; a museum of natural history and antiquities ; an hospital, and an elegant bathing establishment. The harbour, formed by two large basins, defended by several forts ; was enlarged by Napoleon when he proposed to invade England, and was the scene of Nelson s unsuccessful attack on the flotilla by gun-boats. A French army of 180,000 men was then en camped in the neighbourhood of the town, where, on August 15, 1805, were distributed the first decorations of the legion of honour. To commemorate the foundation of that order, and also, by anticipation, the conquest of England, the army erected a monumental column at its own expense, and dedi cated it to the Emperor. The column, which is 1 64 ft. high, stands on an elevated plain about 1 m. from the town, and is surmounted by a statue of Napoleon, and ornamented with bronze bas-reliefs. The port is safe, but encumbered with a bar, and of difficult access. A fixed red light is placed on the N.E. jetty; and two other lights, one above the other, on the S.W. jetty. The harbour has latterly been improved, but is still, and in all probability must ever remain, only a tide harbour. The town is the seat of courts of first resort and of commerce. It has also an exchange, a custom-house, and several societies agricultural, commercial, and scientific. It manufactures coarse woollen stuffs, sailcloth, lace, fishing- nets, crockery, and fine hewn stone for the colonies, bottles, cordage, bricks, tiles, and leather. The inhabitants are much employed in fishing, and daily despatch large quantities of fresh fish to Paris. They also engage extensively in the herring-fishery, and, in 1843, had nine vessels employed in the Newfoundland cod-fishery. They are also understood to carry on a large contraband trade, particularly in brandy, with the English coast. The general trade of the port is extensive, and steam communication is kept up with London, Dover, and Brighton. In 1843, the foreign vessels entered at Bou logne were 831 ; tonn. 80,610; cleared, 862 ; tonn. 82,408. The recent (1848) completion of the railway to Amiens has brought it into communication with Paris. The annual number of passengers who embark and disembark, is about 60,000. Many English reside at Boulogne; and there are numerous educational establishments and boarding-schools for English children. The fishers are a body by themselves, inhabiting a particular part of the town, speaking their own dialect, and seldom intermarrying with the other inhabitants. They are bold seamen, and their boats are not surpassed by any in the Channel. Boulogne still exhibits some Roman remains. The North men took it in 882, and massacred the inhabitants. On September 13,1544, the town capitulated to Henry VIII. of England, after a siege of six weeks. The English retained it till 1550, when Edward VI. restored it to France, upon payment of 400,000 crowns. Charles V. demolished it in 1553. During the Republic, Boulogne received the name of Port de TUnion. Pop. (1821), 16,607; (1831), 20,856; (1846), 29,741. BOULSTON, par., S. Wales, Pembroke. Pop. 319. BOULTHAM, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 1210 ac. Pop. 72. BOUNGO, a prov. Japan, one of the largest in isl. Kiu- Siu. BOUNTIFUL ISLANDS, two isls., about 1 m. apart, Australia, Gulf of Carpentaria ; the larger is intersected by the meridian of 140 E., and is 2 J m. long, and three-fourths of a mile broad. The smaller is about half a mile each way. They obtained their name from the quantity of turtle found on them. BOURBON (ISLE OF), an African isl., belonging to France, Indian Ocean; about 400 m. E. Madagascar, and 90 m. W.S.W. the Mauritius ; lat. (St. Denis) 20 51 30" S.; Ion. 55 29 45" E. (R.) ; 45 m. long, N.W. to S.E., and 33 m. extreme breadth ; area, 900 geo. sq. m. It is nearly circular, has no great indentations on its rocky coast, is volcanic, and composed of a mass of mountains, rising to a considerable elevation near the middle of the island, and sloping down on all sides to the coasts, along which is a girdle of cultivated BOURBON 465 BOURG-ARGENTAL land, 3 to 4 m. broad. The mountains form two principal j by a council of 30 members, elected for five years ; and there are a royal court, two courts of assize, and two of first resort. Besides a college, there are numerous schools on the island, 16 churches, two hospitals, two establishments for the relief of the poor, and two prisons. The island was discovered by Mascarenhas, a Portuguese navigator, in 1545, at which period it was not inhabited, and received the name of its discoverer. In 1642, the French sent here some criminals from Madagascar, and, having for mally taken possession of it in 1649, named it Bourbon. At the beginning of the first French Revolution, the name was groups; that of Piton des Neiges [snowy peak], an extinct volcano, in the N.W., the most extensive ; and that of the active volcano, Piton de la Fournaise, in the S.E. The culminating peaks arc Piton des Neiges, 10,334 ft.; Grand Bernard, 9743 ft.; and Cimandef, 7492 ft.; all in the N.W. group; and Piton de la Fournaise, 7217 ft. The plains between the two mountain groups are not extensive. The principal ones, called the plain of the Caffres, and that of the Palmists, separated by a rampart of volcanic rocks, are at a considerable elevation above the sea level. The soil of the , ..~ ,^ & ........ & . *..~ .^^ * +^.^* ... , former is entirely composed of lava and other volcanic sub- changed into that of lleunion, and during the Empire into that stances ; and it is nearly destitute of vegetation, although in ! of Bonaparte and Napoleon. It was captured by the British some places a few stunted shrubs exist. In the latter many j in 1810, and restored to France in 1815, when it resumed the trees are found, including palms, whence the plain derives its j name of Bourbon. Pop. (1841), 111,682, of which 65,993 name. Streams are numerous, coursing down the mountain I were slaves. sides in all directions, and forming deep rugged ravines. They | BOURBON -L ARCHAMBAULT [anc. Borbo Erchenbaldi], are, however, mostly torrents of no great size, except during [ a tn. France, dep. Allier, 13 m. W. Moulins, whence the the rainy season, when they descend with devastating force j royal Bourbons are said to have been named. The ruins on the cultivated plains below. Earthquakes are rare, and j of a castle, which belonged to the first lords of Bourbon, are little felt. I pointed out as all that remains of the ancestral halls of the The climate is delightful, and healthy, especially in elevated j royal families of France and Spain. The town is now only situations on the windward side. The air is pure, and the noted for its thermal springs, used in cases of rheumatism, sky always clear. At St. Dennis, the hottest part of the paralysis, gun-shot wounds, and diseases of the eye. The island, and at the sea level extreme heat, 90 50 ; mean of baths were known to the Romans, who appear to have had an February and March, the hottest months, 81 50 ; mean of August, the coolest month, 72 50 ; lowest temperature, 61 25 . There are two distinct seasons, the hot and rainy establishment in this locality. Pop. 1615. BOURBON -VENDEE, a tn. France, cap. dep. Vendee, 231 m. S.W. Paris, agreeably situated on a hill, r. bank, Yon. season, from the end of November to the beginning of May; j The streets are broad, straight, clean, and lined with good- and the temperate season, from May to the end of November. The prevailing winds throughout the year are from the E. and S.E., except at new and full moons. The island is some times swept by terrible hurricanes, but was esteemed, until recently, entirely free of endemic maladies and fevers. It would appear, however, that now, after a residence of four or five years, Europeans arc subject to bloody flux and typhoid fever. The mountains were at one time well wooded, and are still partly covered with forests, in which many useful trees are to be found. Excepting a circular basin, near Piton des Neiges, no part of the interior is cultivated or inhabited. All cultivation is on the shore girdle, already adverted to, round , _. . . A the foot of the mountains, where the soil, generally speaking, ! dismantled by Charles IX. and Louis XIII., and, in 1793, is of the greatest fertility, and presents all varieties of levels, | thoroughly destroyed by the Republicans. In 1805, Napoleon from the margin of the sea to 3000 ft. high. The principal | selected Bourbon for the capital of the department, and de- looking houses ; and nearly all end in the Place Royale, a spacious square, bordered with ranges of fine trees, and sur rounded by public monuments and elegant mansions. The parish church, with a peristyle of six Doric columns, and the mairie or mansion-house, an elegant Italian building, are both in the Place Royale. Besides these, there are an elegant market-house, theatre, and extensive public offices, large barracks, and a small public library. Bourbon is likewise the seat of a court of first resort; and it has an agricultural society, and lyceum. It has no manufactures, and scarcely any trade. The town occupies the site of the ancient Roche- sur-Yon, a large feudal castle, founded prior to the Crusade articles cultivated are sugar, coffee, cloves, peppers, tobacco, and potatoes. Wheat, maize, and rice are also raised, but not in quantity sufficient for the consumption of the island. Manioc, the esculent arum, legumes, &c., are also grown to some extent. The fruits of Bourbon are those both of European and tropical countries, and include pine-apples, bananas, bread-fruit, dates, figs, grapes, oranges, strawberries, raspberries, &c. The dryness of the pasture-lands prevents the rearing of cattle in numbers sufficient for the wants of the population ; of domestic animals, pigs are, as usual, in greatest plenty, their numbers nearly equalling that of the inhabitants. A few wild goats are to be found in the woods, and land- turtles are obtained in the W. districts. Bats are numerous, and are esteemed a great delicacy by the nati ves. The coasts abound with fish, and the shores with beautiful shells. Am bergris is also found. The island has neither metals nor useful minerals, other than volcanic stones and earth. It lias one ferruginous alkaline spring, in the vicinity of Piton des Neiges, which is somewhat frequented. Manufactures there are almost none, excepting that of bags for holding sugar, &c. ; some lime-burning, and tanneries. The principal exports are : raw sugar, rum, coffee, cacao, cloves, mace ; imports : rice, wheat, oil, wines, cattle, salt, porcelain, &c., with cottons, and other manufactured goods. After France, Bourbon trades chiefly with India, to which it sends cloves, and from which it imports rice; Madagascar, from which it obtains large cattle, and rice ; and the Mauritius. In 1 840, the imports amounted to 686,894, and the exports to 420,871. The island has no harbour, but only about a dozen of open, exposed roadsteads; s of St. Denis on the N., and St. It is divided into two arrondisse- of which, the best are tin Paul s on the N.W. side. ments, sub-divided into 13 communes, six cantons, and 13 parishes ; and has two principal towns St. Denis, the capital, and St. Paul; and 11 other towns and villages, mostly built on the coasts. Bourbon is presided over by a Governor, assisted A r OL. I. ^oted 3,000,000 francs (120,000), to the erection of the public edifices requisite for the chief town of a prefecture. It was named Napoleon -Ville until 1814, when a decree of the Comte d Artois, dated April 25, changed it to Bourbon- Vende e. Pop. 5280. BOURBONNAIS, a prov. France, now forming the dep. of Allier, and also the arrond. of St. Amand, dep. Cher. BOURBONNE-LES-BAixs [anc. Eorbonna], a tn. France, dep. Haute-Marne, 21 m. E.N.E. Langres, occupying the site of Roman thermal baths, succeeded by a feudal castle, and then by a small town. The present town was built about the commencement of last century, the former one having been almost entirely consumed by fire. The baths, whence the town is named, are derived from three springs, of the re spective temperature of 136, 134, 121 Fah. The latter belongs to the military hospital. The public bathing estab lishment is a very handsome edifice, where every convenience is provided for the invalid. The waters are used exclusively for chronic complaints, and for old wounds, in the cure of which they enjoy considerable reputation. The town is agreeably situated, and has some fine promenades. Its manu factures are cutlery and cotton hosiery. Pop. 3683. BOURBOURG, a tn. France, dep. Nord, 9 m. S.W. Dunkirk ; in a marshy country, near r. bank, Aa, on the canal from that river to Dunkirk. It is an ancient town, and, during the Middle Ages, was the place where the Kings of England usually held their interviews with the Counts of Flanders. It has manufactories of lace, salt-refineries, brew eries, and oil-mills. Pop. 2438. BOURG-AKGENTAL, a tn. France, dep. Loire, 12 m. S.E. St. Etienne; on the Deome, in a district where silk of a superior quality is produced, bought principally by the manu facturers of Lyons, St. Chamond, and St. Etienne. The silk is white, and, being the best in France for the manufacture of blonde lace, brings a high price. The manufactures are BOURG-D OISANS 466 BOURGES lace, crape, and ribbons. There is an excellent bleachfield, and silk and cotton are spun in the. town. In the neighbour hood are extensive nurseries. Pop. 1685. BOURG -D OISAXS, a tu. France, dep. Isere, 18 m. S.E. Grenoble, at the extremity of the dark and picturesque valley of the Romanche, which is completely hemmed in by wooded heights, with numerous cascades. In the neighbour hood are the remains of a natural embankment formed by two torrents, which, becoming overflooded, threw down rocks and trees into the valley below, and gave rise to the Lake of St. Laurent. The lake thus formed in 1181, covered the valley near Bourg-d Oisans to a depth of about 90 ft. Thirty- eight years afterwards the embankment suddenly gave way, and the vast volume of water rushing down, carried devasta tion into numerous villages in the line of its course, and almost drowned the town of Grenoble. Lead mines and rock crystal are wrought in the vicinity. Pop. 1643. BOURG-DU-rEAGE, a tn. France, dep. Drome, 11 m. N.E. Valence, r. bank, Isere, which separates it from St. Romans. The mulberry is extensively cultivated in the vicinity, and silk is spun in the town. Nut-oil is also manu factured here. Pop. 3360. BOURG-EN-BRESSE [anc. Burgas Seyusianorum], a tn. France, cap. dep. Ain, 232 m. S.E. Paris, 1. bank, Keys- souse. It is well built, with good streets, tolerably clean, and ornamented with public fountains, one of which, in the form of a pyramid, was erected by the inhabitants to the memory of General Joubert. On the Promenade du Bastion is a bronze statue of Bichat, the celebrated anatomist, who pursued his early medical studies in the hospital here. Bourg has a parish church, a handsome edifice of the 16th century; a public library, containing 19,000 volumes ; a museum, and a spacious corn-market. Outside the town is a magnificent hospital, surrounded by gardens; and the beautiful Gothic church of Biou, built by the direction of Margaret of Aus tria, daughter of Maximilian f. In front of the portal stands a curious elliptical sun-dial, reconstructed by the celebrated astronomer Lalande, who was a native of this place. Bourg is the seat of a court of first resort, and has also a lyceum, seminary, and agricultural society ; some manufactures of linen and hosiery, several tanneries, and a cotton mill ; and a considerable trade in grain, poultry, wine, leather, horses, and cattle In 1814, the inhabitants of Bourg offered a stout resistance to the Allies, and held 1500 Austrians in check for some time ; but the town was ultimately taken, and pillaged. Pop. 8863. BOURG-ST. -ANDEOL, a tn. France, dep. Ardcche, 25 m. S. Privas ; agreeably situated in a fertile and well culti vated country, r. bank, Rhone, which is here crossed by a suspension-bridge. It has manufactures of silk, and some trade in grain, flour, wine, brandy, olive-oil, and other pro ductions of the S. of France. The church contains a Roman tomb, in marble ; and in the immediate vicinity of the town is a grotto, with a temple to the god Mithras, and curious sculptures. The principal figure wears the Persian tiara. Pop. 3751. BOURG-ST. -MAURICE, a vil. Sardinia, Savoy, prov. Tarentaise; on the Isere, about 6 m. S.W. of the Little St. Bernard. It was almost entirely destroyed by fire in 1794, but has since been rebuilt in an improved form. A cheese of some celebrity is produced in the neighbourhood, and, with cattle, forms the only article of trade. Pop. 2380. BOURG -SUR- GIRONDE, or SUR-MER, a tn. France, dep. Gironde, 8 m. S.E. Blaye, r. bank, Dordogne, near its confluence with the Gironde. It is tolerably well built, has a small port, admitting vessels of 200 or 300 tons ; and, in the neighbourhood, some quarries of excellent stone, from which Bordeaux is supplied. The town has a considerable trade in wine. Pop. 1356. BOURG AKEUF, a tn. France, dep. Creuse, 17 m. S.S.W. Gueret, on the Thorion. It gives its name to a coal field or basin, extending through four of the neighbouring communes ; and has manufactures of porcelain and paper. Pop. 2480. BOURG AS, BOUROHAP, or BURGAS.!, A seaport tn. Turkey in Europe, prov. Koumelta, on the Black Sea, at the bottom of gulf of same name, 70 m. N.E. Adrianople; lat. (minaret) 42 30 18" N. ; Ion. 27 30 45" E. (it.) It is built on an eminence, and has a prepossessing appearance. The shops are kept neat and clean, and being well stocked with showy articles, look very pretty. Its principal source of prosperity is in the manufacture of pottery, pipe-bowls, cups, c., for which a superior clay is found in the neighbourhood. They are, besides, tastefully made, richly ornamented, and are sold at a high price. The town has also a considerable trade in grain, wine, iron, woollen stuffs, butter, cheese, and other productions of the country. Pop. 6000. The GULP is formed by Cape Emineh on the N., and the town of Sizeboli or Sizopoli on the S., 17m. apart. It opens E. and stretches about 22 in. inland. 2, Tchatal Bonrgas, or Burgas, a tn. same prov. 45 m. S.E. Adrianople; lat. 41 21 N. ; Ion. 27 18 E.; with an old castle, a fine mosque, hospital, baths, small market-place, manufactures of terra-cotta, and about 2000 houses. BOURGES [anc. Bituricce or Bitiiria], a very ancient tn. France, cap. dep. Cher, 124 m. S. Paris, at the confluence of the Auzon and Yevre. It is surrounded with ramparts, now converted into public promenades, and is about 2J m. round. The streets are generally broad, but deserted and gloomy, owing to the small population, and peculiar construction ol the houses. Large unbuilt spaces, likewise, generally planted with trees, or occupied as gardens and nursery-grounds, are met with here and there. The principal public buildings are, the cathedral, erected in the 13th century, and esteemed one of the finest Gothic structures in France ; the church of Notre Dame, founded in 1157, destroyed by fire in 1487, and re built in 1520 ; and the church of St. Bonnet, founded in 1250, destroyed by the same fire of 1487, and re-built in 1510. The glass in the chapels of the latter is exquisitely painted. The archiepiscopal palace is a handsome building, with gardens, designed by Le Notre. The hotel of the prefecture occupies the site of the old palace of the Dukes of Berry. Next to the cathedral, however, the most remarkable building of Bourges is the Hotel de Ville, built in 1443, and originally the man sion of Jacques Cceur, a native of the town, and the cele brated and unfortunate treasurer of Charles VII., who, after lending his master 200,000 gold crowns, was cast into prison, and all his property confiscated, for certain imaginary crimes, of which he was accused by courtiers who shared in his spoils. He was condemned to death, but escaped to Rome, and died on a naval expedition, iu the service of the Pope. This building is in the florid Gothic stylo, ma-nificence. Besides the mairie, the m mansion and of great of Jacques Cceur contains the halls of the royal court,jtne courts of first resort, of commerce, and justiciary. The BOURGET 467 BOVEY-TEACEY ancient seminary is also a handsome edifice, now occupied as barracks. Bourges has a public library, containing 20,000 volumes ; a college, museum, seminary, theatre, general hos pital, prisons, and a house of refuge. The town is the seat of an archbishopric, of a royal court for the departments of Cher, Indre, and Nievre, of a diocesan theological seminary, ecclesiastical school, and normal school for the department. It is also the capital of the 21st military division of the king dom. The manufactures are inconsiderable, consisting of some coarse woollens, blankets, cutlery, and leather. It has also saltpetre works, breweries, and tanneries. The number of silversmiths is remarkable for a provincial town. The principal trade is in grain, hemp, wool, flannel, hides, wood, and fruit-trees. Bourges is of high antiquity. Six centuries before the Christian era, it was the capital of Celtic Gaul. In the time of Julius Caesar it was called Aearicum, and was the capital of the Bituriges, from whom the modern name appears to be derived. Caesar besieged and took it, B.C. 52. Under the Romans it became the capital of Aquitania. In 475, it fell into the hands of the Visigoths, but submitted to Clovis, when he had vanquished Alaric, in the plains of VoniHe". It then became the capital of prov. Berri ; and, during the Middle Ages, partook of the vicissitudes common to the towns of France. The great fire of 1487 destroyed 3000 houses, and gave a blow to the commercial prosperity of the town, from which it never recovered. The cloth manu facturers, who were at that time numerous, removed from the place, and Lyons profited by the disaster, as the fairs were transferred to that town. In 1583, the plague carried oft 5000 of the inhabitants. Seven councils have been held at Bourges, and the Pragmatic Sanction was accepted here by the clergy in 1438. Pop. (1846), 18,255. BOUKGET. 1, A lake, Sardinia, Savoy, 7 m. N. Cham- bery, and near the E. frontiers of France. It is about llm. long, from N. to S., and, on an average, not more than 2 m. broad. It empties its surplus water into the Rhone, by a tortuous channel, which permits steam-vessels to enter, and navigate the lake. The scenery is very romantic, the W. shore consisting of a precipice of limestone, which rises almost perpendicularly. 2, A vil. at the S.W. extremity of the lake. It is a place of great antiquity, and many Roman remains have been found in it. Pop. 1650. BOURGOGNE. See BURGUNDY. BOURGOIN [anc. Bergusium}, a tn. France, dep. Iscre, 8 m. W.N.W. La Tour-du-Pin, on the Bourbre. It is sur rounded with marshes, which have been partly drained, and which afford inexhaustible supplies of turf for fuel. The town has some woollen, cotton, and silk manufactures, and numerous flour-mills. It carries on a good trade in flour of excellent quality, hemp, linen, and woollen cloth, &c. Pop. 3337. BOURGUEIL, a tn. France, dep. Indre-et-Loire, 26 m. S.W. Tours, r. bank, Doit, here called the Authion. The district produces red wine of good quality, flax, hemp, anise, liquorice, nuts, onion and other vegetable seeds. Trade in nut-oil, dried fruits, butter, maize, millet, and wine. Pop. 1729. BOURKE, a co., S. Australia, 65 m. long, and 60 broad ; area, 3000 sq. m., or 2,496,000 ac. It contains 35 parishes Pop. 17,331, of which 9440 are males, 7891 females. BOURLOS. See BOORLOS. BOURN, or BOURNE, three pars. Eng.: 1, par. Cam bridge; 4073 ac. Pop. 909. 2, Bourne (St. Mary), par. Hants ; 6640 ac. Pop. 1152. 3, Bourne (West], par. Sussex; 4230 ac. Pop. 2093. BOURNE, a tn. and par. England, co. of, and 33 m. S. Lincoln. The town lies at the foot of a range of hills, and consists of four principal streets, recently much improved in cleanliness and sewage; houses generally of brick, for the most part irregularly but well built ; amply supplied with water, and well lighted with gas. The church is a large ancient structure, with two towers at its W. end. There are chapels belonging to Baptists, Methodists, Independents, and Calvinists; also, a grammar, national, and several private schools ; a set of alms-houses, a clothing-fund, and some other minor charities, and a mechanics institute. The manufac ture of leather, formerly carried on here to a considerable extent, has long since ceased. The only trade of the town now is in wool and corn. Area of par. 8190 ac. Pop., in cluding the hamlets of Dyke and Cawthorpe, 3361. (Local Correspondent.} BOURNEMOUTH, a vil. England, co. Hants, 6 in. W. by S. Christ Church. It lies on the coast, and having of late years become a place of fashionable resort for bathing, many tasteful villas have sprung up. A spacious hotel, a range of elegant and commodious baths, and a church, have also been recently erected. BOURNEY, par. Irel. Tipperary; 12,931 ac. Pop. 4620. BOURO. Sec BOORO. BOURT ANGER MORASS, an extensive swamp, up wards of 40 m. in length, on the confines of Holland and Hanover, bank of the Ems. Being quite impracticable for the passage of troops, it forms, to the adjacent provinces, an important defence against invasion. At the N. extremity of the morass, in province Groningen, is a fort of the same name. BOURTIE, par. Scot. Aberdeen ; 4000 ac. Pop. 469. BOURTON, three pars. Eng.: 1, Bourton-upon Puns- moor, par. Warwick; 2520 ac. Pop. 390. 2, Bourton-on- tlie-IKll, par. Gloucester; 2960 ac. Pop. 542. 3, Bourton- on-tlie- Water, par. Gloucester; 2290. Pop. 943. BOUSSA, a city, Africa, Soodan, cap. prov. of samo name, on an island in the Niger or Quorra, about 3 m. long, and 1 m. broad ; lat. 10 14 N.; Ion. 6 11 E. It is walled, and being surrounded by rocks, is a place of considerable strength. As in all African cities, the houses are irregularly placed, and thus cover a space of ground disproportioned to the number of inhabitants. The soil of the province is fertile, producing corn, yams, cotton, rice, and timber trees, in great abundance. Amongst the wild animals are elephants, hippo potami, lions, tigers, &c. Boussa has obtained a melancholy notoriety, from the circumstance of its being the place where the enterprising traveller, Park, met his death. The popu lation of the town of Boussa has been estimated at 12,000 to 18,000. BOUSSU, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. Hainaut, 7 m. W. Mons ; with the fine castle of the Counts of Caraman and Beaumont, whence Louis XIV. directed the siege of Saint Ghislain, in 1665. The commune has extensive breweries, an iron-foundry, and forge, and abounds in coal ; 30,000 tons are raised annually, two-thirds of which go to France. Pop. 3287. BOUTONNE, a river, France, which rises at the foot of one of the towers of the ancient castle of Malesherbes, near Chef-Boutonne, dep. Deux-Sevres, and, after a S.W. course of about 50 m., falls into the Charente, about 10 m. above its mouth. It passes, and is navigable from, St. Jean d Angely. BOUXW1LLER, or BOSWILLER, a tn. France, dep. Bas Rhin, on the Moder, 20m. N.W. Strasburg; formerly walled. It has extensive chemical works, producing alum, vitriol, Prussian blue, ammonia, animal charcoal, pyrolignous acid, &c. It likewise has some large tanneries, bleachfields, madder-works, ropeworks, and manufactures of fustian, linen, ironmongery, and excellent glue. Pop. 3951. BOUZONVILLE, a tn. France, dep. Moselle, on the Nied, 19 m. N.E Metz. Its manufactures are leather (common and shammy), glue, nails, and cabinet-work. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of an abbey, founded in 1030. Its extensive Gothic buildings crown a hill, whose sloping sides are covered with orchards, and at the foot of which the Nied meanders through large and verdant meadows. Pop. 1580. BOVA, a tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Ultra, 17 m. S.E. Reggio, on a mountain not far from the sea ; seat of a bishop, suffragan to Reggio. It has a cathedral, and several other churches, a seminary, hospital, and two monts-de-picte, Silk worms are reared in the neighbourhood. Pop. 2882. BOVEGNO, a vil. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 18 m. N. by E. Brescia, near 1. bank, Mella. It has a parish church, an hospital, and manufactory of iron vessels, and cutlery. In the vicinity are iron mines, and several mineral springs. Pop. 2546. BOVEVAGH, par. Irel. Derry ; 19,636 ac. Pop. 5174. BOVEY, two pars. Eng. Devon :\,Bo-cey (North), 6600 ac. Pop. 660. 2, Bovey (South), 6480 ac. Pop. 1823. BOVEY-TRACEY, a vil. and par. England, co. Devon, 4 m. W. by S. Chudleigh. There are here a large parish church, in the early English style ; chapels for Wesleyans and Baptists, and an endowed free school for 20 boys. There F BOVINO 468 BOYLE are several extensive earthenware potteries, and some coal mines in the parish. Area of par. 6480 ac. Pop. 1823. BOVINO [anc. Bovinum], a tn. Naples, prov. Capitanata, 20 m. S.S.W. Foggia, near the Cervaro; the seat of a bishopric, suffragan to Benevento. It is fortified, and has a cathedral, two parish churches, and several convents. The Spaniards were defeated here by the Imperialists in 173-1. Pop. 5721. BOW, or NYMET-TRACEY, par. Eng. Devon ; 2740 ac. Pop. 973. BOW, an id., S. Pacific; lat. 18 6 S.; Ion. 140 48 \V. (E.) ; of coral formation, 30 m. long by 5 mean breadth ; well wooded on the weather side, but scantily on the other ; visited for its pearl-fishery. Pop. about 100. BOW, or STRATFORD-LE-BOW, a vil. and par. England, co. Middlesex, 4J m. E.N.E. St. Paul s Cathedral, London. The village is agreeably situated ; well paved, and lighted with gas. The church, an ancient structure, of a mixed style of architecture, has a low square tower, and a window gor geously ornamented with figures in stained glass. There are, besides, places of worship for Wesleyans, Baptists, and R. Catholics ; several free schools, an alms-house, and various ! other charities. Porcelain was formerly manufactured here ! to a great extent. The Eastern Counties Railway passes a j little N. the town. Area of par. 630 ac. Pop. 4626. BOWDEN, two pars. Eng.: 1, Bowden (Great], par. Leicester; 3120 ac. Pop. 3698. 2, Bowden (Little], par. Northampton; 2410 ac. Pop. 439. BOWDEN, a vil. and par. Scotland, co. Roxburgh. The vil., 3 m. S. Melrose, has a church, and a good parochial school. Pop. 253. Area of par. 6700 ac. Pop. 857. BOWD1TCH ISLAND, an id., S. Pacific; lat. (N. point) 9 20 S.; Ion. 171 4 W. (R.) ; of coral formation, and tri angular form, with the apex S. It is 8 m. long N. to S., and about 4 m. broad. On its N.W. and N. points the land is of considerable elevation, and on the E. are extensive groves of cocoa-nut trees and shrubbery. The scenery on some parts of this little island is of surpassing beauty, equalling all that the imagination has pictured, or can picture of these paradises of the ocean, with their balmy climates and luxu riant foliage. The inhabitants, of whom there are about 600, are friendly, gentle, and good-humoured, but extremely timid. In their persons they are well formed, and the expression of their countenances is extremely agreeable. The younger portion of the community go naked, but those more advanced in life wear the maro, a sort of apron, which in the men is from 16 to 18 inches wide; in the case of females it is of preposterous size, and weighs about 50 Ibs., presenting a very uncouth and ridiculous appearance. They do not cultivate the soil, but live chiefly on its spontaneous productions, which include cocoa-nuts, and on the produce of the sea ; and that these sources afford them sufficient sustenance, says Capt. Wilkes, is amply proved by their robust and healthy looks. They are a very ingenious people, exhibiting great taste and dexterity in the manufacture of various small articles, such as fish-hooks, boxes, and working-implements, saws, files, and drills, formed, indeed, from rude materials, but well adapted for their purposes. They also manufacture an excellent kind of matting for sleeping in, and for clothing. Bowditch Island was discovered by Commander Wilkes, of the U. States Exploring Expedition, on January 29, 1841, the island not having been laid down in any chart previous to that period, and being still wanting in many maps. BOWDON, par. Eng. Chester; 18,660 ac. Pop. 9373. BOWER, par. Scot. Caithness, 7 in. long by 3 broad. Pop. 1689. BOWER-CHALK, par. Eng. Wilts; 3120 ac. Pop. 447. BOWERS-GIFFORD, par. Eng. Essex; 2230 ac. P.249. BOWES, par. Eng. York, N. Riding; 18,440 ac. P. 850. BOWFELL, a mountain, Eng. Westmoreland, 7 m. W. by N. Ambleside, 2911 ft. high. BOW MORE, a vil. and port, Scotland, co. Argyle, isl. Islay, near the head of Loch-in Daal. It is laid out with tolerable regularity. A principal street ascends a pretty steep hill, and is crossed by another wide street ; and a third street, with inferior houses, runs parallel to the first. The quay is substantial, and suited for coasting vessels. The parish church, a respectable circular building, surmounted by a neat spire, stands in the village, which likewise has three schools. A distillery here is somewhat noted for the quality of the whisky produced. Pop. about 1500. BOWNESS, a post tn. England, co. Westmorland; de lightfully situated on E. shore, Lake Windermere, 9 m. W.N.W. Kendal, a favourite residence of visitors to the lake scenery. It has a parish church, free grammar school, and several handsome villas, and is within 1 J m. of the Winder mere station of the Kendal and Windermere Railway. BOWNESS, par. Eng. Cumberland ; 10,830 ac. P. 1488. BOX, par. Eng. Wilts ; 4130 ac. Pop. 2274. BOXFORD, two pars. Eng. : 1, par. Suffolk; 2450 ac. 1 Pop. 1121. 2, Boxford-cum-WcsOirook, par. Berks; 2880 ac. Pop. 612. BOXGROVE, par. Eng. Sussex ; 3410 ac. Pop. 736. BOXLEY, par. Eng. Kent ; 5670 ac. Pop. 1398. BOXMEER [anc. JUeer], a tn. Holland, prov. N. Brabant, 28 m. E. Hertogenbosch, near the Maas. It is neat and clean ; has an old castle, a handsome court-house, a R. Catholic church, a Carmelite monastery and convent, a gymnasium for the tuition of Latin, philosophy, and theology, and three other schools. Boxmeer has two calico printworks, and is noted for its fine beer. Pop. 630. BOXTED, two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Essex; 3120 ac. Pop. 856. 2, par. Suffolk; 1580 ac. Pop. 200. BOXTEL, a tn. Holland, prov. Gelderland, 7 m. S. Her togenbosch, on the Dommel, which, winding through among the houses, propels a variety of mills, besides serving for the passage of boats, and together with the constant traffic of carriages of all sorts to and from Maastricht, &c., renders this one of the most stirring places in the district. Boxtel has a R. Catholic, and a Reformed church, two schools, and a small alms-house. It is noted for the beauty of its diapers and damasks, and has bleacheries, and a paper mill. Pop. nearly all R. Catholics, about 3600. BOXWELL-wiTH-LEiGHTERTON, par. Eng. Gloucester ; 2210ac. Pop. 334. BOXWORTH, par. Eng. Cambridge ; 2000 ac. Pop. 326. BOYACA, a vil. New Granada, dep. same name, 60 in. N.N.E. Bogota, with important limekilns. It has become noted from the defeat here sustained by the Spaniards in 1819, and which secured the independence of the W. provinces. The DEPARTMENT is very extensive, bounded by the republic of Venezuela, and provinces Cundinamarca and Magdalena ; area, 92,800 geo. sq. in. ; capital, Tunja. In the W., it is traversed by a chain of the Andes, and in the E. it is com posed of immense plains, watered by affluents of the Orinoco. Pop. (1840), 46,500. BOYANAGH, par. Irel. Galway ; 15,832 ac. Pop. 5288. BOYANNA BAY, a bay, N.W. coast of Madagascar, N.W. point; lat. 15 59 S.; Ion. 45 23 E. It is about 3 m. wide in the entrance, and 6 or 7 m. in length ; extend ing S., with depths from 6 to 4 fathoms, and which shoal to 2 and 1 fathom near the shore and at the bottom of the hay, around which there are several small villages ; and on the W. side is the principal town of the province. BOYD TOWN, a seaport, Australia, New S. Wales, at the head of Twofold Bay; lat. 37 10 S.; Ion. 149 57 E., separ ated from E. Boyd by the river Kiah. Though but lately founded, it is in a flourishing condition, and has already a pretty extensive trade, and is laid out in good taste, and com posed of well-built brick houses, and neat cottages, with ver andahs. It contains a handsome Gothic church, with a lofty spire, a spacious hotel, and several ranges of commodious shops. There are here a large whaling establishment, employing nine sperm whaling ships, and several extensive salting and boiling- down houses. The port has a convenient jetty, 300 ft. long, and vessels refitting have here the advantage of a heaving-down hulk, and every necessary mechanical assistance, abundance of water, and every description of provisions and vegetables. Both Boyd and E. Boyd are consequently favourite resorts for shipping. BOYLE, a garrison tn. and par. Ireland, co. Roscommon. The town is 22 tn. S.E. Sligo, on a stream of same name, con necting Lough Gara with Lough Key, in a valley nearly sur rounded by hills. It consists of four principal streets crossing at right angles, two of which are straight, the other two wind ing, one of the latter ascends a very steep hill ; all indifferently paved and kept. The more modern houses, many of which are of stone, are well built, great improvement in this respect BOYLSTON 469 BRACKENHEIM having taken place of late years, but in the outskirts are many- miserable hovels. Boyle has an Episcopal church, and chapel of ease, a R. Catholic, and two Methodist chapels, a work house, in the old English style ; court-house, and bridewell, the latter a plain building, with freestone front ; a national school for boys and girls, and a male and female infant school connected with the church ; a dispensary, and a charitable loan fund. Oatmeal and flour are made at very extensive mills erected on the Boyle river, at the extremity of the town, and coarse frieze and flannels are manufactured by some of the peasantry, but to a very limited extent, and only for the home market. A large number of cattle is sold at the fairs, which lake place nine times a year, and, being the centre of an extensive district, there is a good retail trade. In the environs is a public garden, decorated with a statue of King William III., with well laid-out walks, for the recreation of the inhabitants, provided by Viscount Lorton, the proprietor of the town. Pop. 3235. Areaof par. 20,737 ac. Pop. 12,591. (Local Correspondent.) BOYLSTON, par. Eng. Derby; 1360 ac. Pop. 343. BO YNDIE, or BOINDIE, par. Scot. Banff; 3000 ac. P. 875. BOYNE, a river, Ireland ; rises in the bog of Allen, co. Kildare, 1 m. S.E. Carbery, and after a winding N.E. course of about 60 m., through beautiful and romantic scenery, falls into the Irish Sea 4 m. E. by N. Drogheda. By artificial means, it has been rendered navigable for barges to a distance of 25 m. from the sea ; but the bar at its entrance can be crossed only by vessels of small burden. The Boyne derives its chief importance from the memorable and decisive battle fought on its banks, July 1, 1690, between William III. and James II. An obelisk, in commemoration of the battle, was erected in 1786, on the spot where William received a slight wound, the evening before the engagement. BOYNTON, par. Eng. York, E. Biding; 2690 ac. P. 100. BOYSTOWN, or BALTIBOYS, par. Irel. Wicklow; 25,134 ac. Pop. 3644. BO YTON, three pars. Eng. ; 1 , par. Devon and Corn wall ; 5120 ac, Pop. 600. 2, par. Suffolk; 1890 ac. Pop. 239. 3, par. Wilts ; 4580 ac. Pop. 360. BOYTONRATIT, par. Irel. Tipperary ; 992 ac. Pop. 255. BOZEAT, par. Eug. Northampton ; 2400 ac. Pop. 845. BOZZOLO, a fortified tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 16m. W.S.W. Mantua, near r. bank, Oglio, with old fortifications, some silk looms, and an annual fair. Pop. 4049. BRA, a tn. Sardinian States, div. Coni, prov. of, and 9 m. W.S.W. Alba. It has three parish churches, the principal of which is the church of Santa Chiara, built in 1742 by Vettone. The town has a good trade in cattle, grain, wine, and silk, which last is held in high repute. Pop. 8000. BRAA, or BRAHE, a river, Prussia, rising in Pomerania. It forms numerous small lakes in the upper part of its course, flows S.S.E., and falls into the Vistula on its 1. bank, 6 m. E. Bromberg ; total length, about 108 m. The canal from Brom- berg to Nakel unites it with the Netze, and thus forms a com munication between the Vistula and the Oder. BRAAK, or BRAKKE, several streams, S. Africa, Cape Territory: 1, Braak, or New River, rising in Graaf Reynet, near lat. 31 S., flowing N.W. and falling into the Gariep or Orange River, after a course of 120 m., exclusive of windings. 2, The Gh-eat and Little Braak, the two head streams of the Great Fish River. 3, A small affluent of the Little Fish River. BRAAKE. See BRAKE. BRABANT [Dutch, Hertogdom Braband], an ancient duchy of the Low Countries, of which Brussels was the capi tal. On the emancipation of the United Provinces of Holland, it became divided into two parts one Dutch or N. Brabant, and Austrian Brabant, comprehending not merely the present province of S. or Belgian Brabant, but both it and the present province of Antwerp. BRABANT (NORTH), [Dutch, Noord-Brdband], a prov. Holland, and on the frontier betwixt it and Belgium, along which it extends about 60 m.; area, 842,240 ac. It is generally flat, and is drained by the Maas, the Merwede, the Scheldt, the Amer, the old Maas, the Dommel, the Aa or Ade, the Donge, the Mark, and the Dintel, to which may be added the great South-William s-vaart Canal. Careful drainage has made the province famous for health and longevity, and while epidemics have raged in other parts of the Netherlands, N. Brabant has been exempt from their attacks. There are no minerals of any consequence, The soil varies from barren moor and wet bog, to the richest arable and pasture land. Besides the common cereals, it produces hops, madder, cole-seed, flax, hemp, and orchard fruit. Not the least important product is the running plant, found indispensable for the preservation of the dikes from abrasion by the water. Oak and elm thrive well. The lower grounds afford excellent oziers and bulrushes, and the white mulberry is much grown for silkworms, which are reared chiefly at St. Michael s Gestel. The horses and cattle of N. Brabant are smaller than those of some of the neighbouring provinces. The wool of the sheep is mostly used within the province, particularly at Tilburg. The pigs are excellent. Immense quantities of geese and poultry are raised and exported. Bees also are an object of profitable attention. The rivers abound with fish, of which the ancho vies of Bergen-op-Zoom, and the salmon of Gertruidenburg, are in great repute. Manufactures : Woollen cloths, made at Tilburg, Eindhoven, and Gelddrop ; coloured cottons at Hel- mond, and linen and cotton fabrics at Eindhoven and the villages around Hertogenbosch, where also the finest damasks and diapers are manufactured. In other towns there are carpet, hat, and pin manufactories, potteries, brick-fields, many celebrated breweries, lace-making, iron-mills, &c. For the administration of justice, N. Brabant is divided into three districts, and these again into 19 cantons. It has 349 primary, and 14 Latin schools, the latter attended by about 300 scholars. Pop. 378,437, of whom R. Catholics, 328,741 ; Protestants, 47,535; Jews, 1951 ; attached to no religious communion, 210. BRABANT (SOUTH), [Dutch, Z aid -Braband], a prov. Belgium, which, though in population only the third, and in extent only the fourth, is from its central position, and posses sion of the capital, the most important of all the provinces of Belgium. Its boundaries are, N. prov. Antwerp, E. prov. Limburg and Liege, S. prov. Hainaut and Namur, E. prov. E. Flanders. It has an area of 810,955 English ac., of which 67 1,484 are cultivated, 105,131 under wood, of which one-tenth belongs to forest Soignies, and only 3107 uncultivated and waste, the remainder being occupied by water, roads, towns, &c. Its soil, which owes much to nature, but more to industry, produces in abundance all the ordinary grain and pulse crops, seeds, and grasses ; its manufactures are various and extensive, consisting chiefly of cotton stuffs, muslins, velvet, lace, and carpets. It has numerous potteries, tanneries, and currying- houses, hat-factories, sugar and salt refineries, coachworks, paper-mills, glassworks, distilleries, and very extensive brew eries. There is also a very large book trade, the chief ma terials of which are obtained, not from native authors, but from the appropriated literature of France. Brabant is divided into three administrative and judicial arrondissements, of which the chief places are Brussels, Louvain, and Nivelles. Ac cording to the proportion of one to every 45,000 inhabitants, it should send 18 members to the Chamber of Deputies. Pop. 691,357, of whom 220,547 use the French, and 467,696 the Flemish language. BRABOURNE, par. Eng. Kent ; 3640 ac. Pop. 889. BRACADALE, a par. Scotland, co. Inverness, Isle of Skye; length, 17 m.; breadth, 4 to 7 m.; rocky, and intersected by several arms of the sea. Pop. 1824. BRACCIANO [anc. Arcennum or Bracennum"] , a tn. Papal States, W. side, lake of same name, 22 m. N.W. Rome ; with a magnificent castle, belonging to the Dukes of Bracciano. In its vicinity are thermal springs and baths. Pop. 1800. The LAKE [anc. Sabantina starjna] is 2437 ft. above the sea; area, 25 sq. m., and nearly circular. By the Arone it communicates with the Mediterranean. BRACEBOROUGH.par.Eng. Lincoln; 2230ac. P.231. BRACEB Y, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 970 ac. Pop. 155. BRACE-MEOLE, par. Eng. Salop ; 2487 ac. Pop. 1195. BRACEWELL, par. Eng. York, W. Riding; 1920 ac. Pop. 153. BRACKENHEIM, a tn. Wiirtemberg, circle, Neckar, cap. dist. of same name, 23 m. N.N.W. Stuttgart. It con tains two churches, a townhouse, an old castle, a grammar- school, and a well-endowed hospital. It is a place of great antiquity, and is said to have been a Roman station. Pop. 1520. The DISTRICT, area, 70 geo. sq. in., produces much fruit and wine. Pop. 24,415. BRACKLEY BRADLEY BRACKLEY, a market tn. and par. England, co. Nor thampton. The town is 18 in. S.W. Northampton, and consists chiefly of one straight spacious street, nearly 1 m. in length ; houses chiefly of stone, with large gardens behind; well lighted with gas. It contains a church, an ancient and hand some building; Wesleyan and Independent chapels, a free and a national school. The townhall, in the centre of the town, is also an ancient structure. There are two large breweries here, but no other manufactures of any consequence. Pop. 2121. (Local Correspondent.) BRACON- ASH, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 950 ac. Pop. 293. BRADANO, a river, Naples, which rises in a branch of the Appenines, prov. Basilicata, and, after an E.S.E. course of nearly GO m., falls into the Gulf of Taranto, at Ponte Tavole. BRADBORNE, par. Eng. Derby ; 6400 ac. Pop. 1303. BRADDEN, par. Eng. Northampton ; 1000 ac. P. 171. BRADEX1IAM, three pars. Eng. : 1, par. Bucks; 830 ac. Pop. 226. 2, Dradenliam (East), par. Norfolk ; 2120 ac. Pop. 368. 3, liradenham (West), par. Norfolk; 1790 ac. Pop. 364. BRADESTON, par. Eng. Norfolk; 630 ac. Pop. 126. BRADFJELD, six pars. Eng. : 1, par. Berks ; 4270 ac. Pop. 1042. 2, par. Essex; 2270 ac. Pop. 995. 3, par. Norfolk; 630 ac. Pop. 195. 4, Lradfald Combust, par. Suffolk; 590 ac. Pop. 192. 5, Bradfield (St. George), par. Suffolk; 2090 ac. Pop. 479. 6, Bradfield (St. Clair), par. Suffolk, 1 1 90 ac. Pop. 240. BRADFORD, a flourishing manufacturing tn., bor., and par. England, co. York, W. Riding, 29 m. N.E. Manchester. It is pleasantly situated at the junction of three beautiful and extensive valleys, and is almost entirely built of fine freestone. In the older parts of the town, the streets are narrow and ill- constructed ; but in the more modern they are spacious, well paved and lighted. The exchange is a beautiful building, with a library and news-room attached. Opposite to it is the piece-hall, for the exhibition and sale of stuff goods. Thurs day is the day of sale ; but, of late years, sales of goods have been effected, to a much larger amount, at the rooms and warehouses of the leading manufacturers and merchants, both on Mondays and Thursdays. The courthouse, erected in 1834, is a handsome and convenient building. There are also a good market-place, with a spacious enclosed area ; a mechanics institute, for which a commodious and handsome building has been erected ; a flourishing philosophical society, and a dispensary, liberally supported. Churches : the parish church, erected in the reign of Henry VI., in the decorated style of English architecture ; Christ Church, a chapel of ease, a neat structure, with a low tower ; St. James s, St. John s, St. Jude s, and St. Paul s. The other places of worship are, three large Baptist chapels, three Independent, three Wes- leyan Methodist, one New Connection Methodist, two As sociation Methodist, one U. Presbyterian (recently erected), one Unitarian, one Society of Friends, one Moravian, and or.e 11. Catholic. Bradford has a free grammar-school, liberally endowed by Charles II., and rebuilt in 1830; four national schools, and one conducted on the system of the British and Foreign School Society ; and several parochial and Wesleyan schools. In the immediate vicinity is Airedale College, for the education of young men for the ministry among the Inde pendents. The Baptists have a similar academical institution at Little Horton ; and at Woodhouse Grove, 4 m. distant, the Wesleyan Methodists have a school for ministers sons. The infirmary, erected in 1842, is a noble building in the Tudor Btyle, with wards for 60 patients, and a dispensary. The staple manufacture of the town is worsted stuffs, and mixed worsted, alpaca, and mohair ; also cotton and silk fabrics. The spinning of worsted yarn employs a great number of hands ; and when spun it is largely exported, and also woven in the power-loom factories of the town. There are not luss than 112 mills in the parish, for spinning and weaving worsted, &c. ; of these, 38 are in the town. Broad and narrow cloths (employing six extensive mills, chiefly in adjoining townships), wool-cards, and ivory and horn combs are made in great quantities. In the town and neighbourhood, some very extensive dyeworks have of late years been erected. The cotton manufactures are of recent introduction, but are making rapid progress. The vicinity abounds with coal and ironstone ; and about 3 m. S.E. the town are the Low-moor ironworks, and 1 in. E. the Bowling ironworks, both of which are on a very extensive scale, and particularly cele brated for the quality of their iron. Bradford has suffered less from the depression of trade than most other large manu facturing towns. Thursday is the market-day ; and there are three important annual fairs. There is here a flourishing savings -bank, with a handsome building, erected in 1837. Commercial operations have been greatly facilitated by the cutting of a branch from the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, near Shipley, into the very centre of the town. The admirable position of the town in respect to railways is also of advantage to its prosperity. The station of the Leeds and Bradford Rail way, through which communication is established with the N.E. and N.W. of England, and with Scotland, is within 300 yards of the exchange. Equally easy communication is afforded with the S.E. and S.W. of England by the Lancashire and Yorkshire Railway, connected with Bradford by two branches, proceeding, respectively, in a S.E. and S.W. direction. A direct line from Bradford to Leeds is contemplated. Bradford was incorporated in 1847. A mayor, 14 alder men, and 42 common couucilmen constitute the corporate body. By the Reform Act, it returns two members to Par liament. The boundaries of the borough comprise four town ships. Number of electors (1850), 1871. Bradford is a polling station at elections for the W. Riding of the county. The rapidity with which the population of the town has in creased, affords one of the best evidences of its prosperity. In 1801 it was only 6393 ; in 1841, 34,560. The four town ships forming the parl. bor., in 1801, contained 13,264; and in 1841, 66,718 inhabitants. The PARISH of Bradford is 15 m. in length, and, at an average, 4 m. in breadth, and comprises the town of Bradford, three chapelries, and nine townships; area, 33,710 ac. Pop. 105,257. (Local Corre spondent.) BRADFORD (GREAT), an anc. market tn. and par. Eng land, co. Wilts. The town is beautifully situated 28 m. N.W. Salisbury, on a declivity, banks of the Lower Avon, here crossed by two bridges a very old one of nine arches, in the centre of the town, and a modern one of four. The town con sists of three regular streets, containing many handsome, and some elegant houses. It has a spacious church, with a tine altar-piece, and windows of stained glass ; places of worship for Baptists, Independents, Friends, the Countess of Hunting don Connection, Wesleyans, and Unitarians, an endowed free school for the education of 60 boys, a news -room, two alms- houses, and a workhouse. Woollen cloth is the staple manu facture of the place, particularly that composed of fine Spanish and Saxony wool, for the dyeing of which the water of the river is highly favourable. Weekly market, Saturday ; two fairs annually. Bradford was of some note in the time of the Saxons, St. Dunstan having been elected Bishop of Worcester at a synod held in it. The Kennet and Avon Canal passes close to the town, and the Trowbridge station of the Great Western Railway is 4 m. distant. Area of par. 11,740 ac. Pop. 10,563. Pop. of tn. 3836. BRADFORD, four pars. Eng. : 1, par. Devon ; 3670 ac. Pop. 530.--2, par. Somerset ; 1710 ac. Pop. 550. 3, Brad ford Abbas, par. Dorset; 1810 ac. Pop. 652. 4, Bradford Pevcrell, par. Dorset; 2700 ac. Pop. 355. BRADING, a small maritime tn. and par. England, Isle of Wight. The former is prettily situated at the head of an inlet called Brading Haven, E. end of isl., 3 J in. S. Ryde, has little trade and no manufactures, and consists principally of one long irregular street. The church is an old and humble structure ; and in the churchyard a plain head-stone marks the last resting-place of the heroine of Legh Richmond s interesting tale of Little Jane. There are two other churches in the parish, as also two dissenting chapels, and a national school. The market, which is well supplied with corn, is held on Monday ; and fairs are held on May 12 and October 2. Vessels of moderate burden can enter the harbour at high water. Area of par. 7350 ac. Pop. 2701. BRADLEY, nine pars. England:!, par. Derby; 1860 ac. Pop. 271. 2, par. Lincoln; 1450 ac. Pop. 106. 3, par. Hants; 670 ac. Pop. 125. 4, par. Stafford; 4690 ac. Pop. 649. 5, Bradley (Great), par. Suffolk; 2280 ac. Pop. 544. 6, Bradley (Little), par. Suffolk; 890 ac. Pop. 33. 7, Bradley (North), par. Wilts; 3020 ac. Pop. 2427. 8, Bradley-in-tlie- Moors, par. Stafford; 570 ac. Pop. 72. 9, Bradley (West), par. Somerset; 300 ac. Pop. 116. BRADMORE 471 BRAHMAPOOTRA BRADMORE, par. Eng. Notts ; 1560 ac. Pop. 416. BRADNINCH, or BRAINS, a decayed bor., market tn., and par. England, co. Devon, 8 m. N.N.E. Exeter; pleasantly situated on an eminence, and nearly surrounded with hills, 3 m. from the Collumpton station of the Bristol and Exeter Railway. It consists of one principal street, nearly straight, about 1 m. in length, and of several smaller ; houses generally of stone, mostly thatched, the remainder covered with slate. A new guildhall, with a prison under it, was erected in 1835. Bradninch has an old parish church, with a beautifully carved screen, time of Henry VII. ; a Baptist and a Wesleyan chapel, and a national school, erected in 1837. There are two large manufactories for paper in the parish the one, called Ken- sham Mills, for coarse papers, and the other, for fine papers, called Hole Mills. Area of par. 4320 ac. Pop. 1714. (Local Correspondent.} BRADON, par. Eng. Somerset ; 530 ac. Pop. 41 . BRADPOLE, par. Eng. Dorset; 990 ac. Pop. 1357. BRADSBERG, or BRATSBERG, a bail. Norway, composed of the fogderi of Ovre [Upper] Tellemarken, in prov. Chris- tiansand, and of Nedre [Lower] Tellemarken, in prov. Aggers- huus; area, 4030 sq. m. It has about 25 m. of sea-coast in the Skager-llak, and stretches landwards to the Hardanger Fjeld. It contains the coast towns of Stathelle, Langesund, Kragerb e, and Brevig, and the inland towns of Skien, Pors- grund, and Osebacken. Pop. (1845), 67,090. BRADSTONE, par. Eng. Devon ; 1300 ac. Pop. 166. BRADWELL, four pars. Eng.: 1, par. Bucks ; 790 ac. Pop. 381. 2, par. Essex ; 3210 ac. Pop. 293. 3, par. Suf folk; 1540 ac. Pop. 274. 4, Bradwdl-near-the sea, par. Essex; 3870 ac. Pop. 1034. BRADWORTHY, par. Eng. Devon; 12,220 ac. P. 1081. BRAEMAR, a par. Scotland, co. Aberdeen, now united to the parish of Crathie, remarkable for the grandeur and mag nificence of its scenery. It is crowded with lofty, picturesque mountains, whose projecting cliff s and steep acclivities are covered with trees : while commingling with these sterner features are numerous gently sloping hills, which gradually subside into beautiful valleys and verdant plains. The prin cipal mountains in this romantic district are Loshnagar, Cairntoul, Benmacdhui, Bennabuird, &c. Balmoral Castle, one of the summer residences of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, is in the united parish of Crathie and Braemar. (See ABER DEEN COUNTY.) BRAFFERTON, par. Eng. York, N. Eiding; 4860 ac. Pop. 873. BRAFFIELD-ON-THE-GKEEx, par. Eng. Northampton ; 1980 ac. Pop. 428. BRAGA [anc. Brarara Augusta], a tn. Portugal, cap. prov. Minho. and seat of an archbishop, primate of Portugal, THE SCJUARE AND FOUNTAIN OF TOWERS, BRAGA. 82 m. N.N.E. Oporto, in a plain watered by the Este, and about 3 m. S. of the Cavado. It is surrounded by walls flanked with towers, and defended by a castle. The houses ore old, and the streets, though broad, are not well laid out. It contains seven squares ornamented by fountains, an archi- episcopal palace, a large quadrangular building, containing a library ; a fine richly ornamented Gothic cathedral of the 13th century, six parish churches, eight monasteries, a seminary, college, hospital, and numerous antiquities, among which are remains of a Roman temple, amphitheatre, and aqueduct. The inhabitants are industrious, and have manufactures of some importance, with which they supply the fairs of Portu gal and of Galicia in Spain. The principal articles produced are, hats, shoes, iron and horn ware, harness, linen cloth, &c. Besides weekly markets, Braga has two annual fairs, each of which lasts a fortnight. In the vicinity are cold sulphurous springs. Braga is supposed to have been founded by the Carthaginians. On a hill about 1 m. E. from the town is the famous sanctuary Bom Jesus do Honte, the most sumptuous and best frequented of any in Portugal. Pop. 16,077. BRAGANCx\. 1, An anc. tn. Brazil, prov. Para, 100m. N.E. Belem, 1. bank, Caite, near its mouth in the bay of same name ; lat. 1 S. ; Ion. 47 20 W. It has several churches and a prison, and the river is navigable up to it at high water. Pop., tn. and dist. 6000. 2, A tn. Brazil, prov. of, and 50 m. N.E. Sao-Paulo. It has a church ; its district is fertile, feeds numbers of cattle and pigs for the Rio cle Janeiro market, and has a number of sugar-mills. Pop. 1 0,000. BRAGANZA, or BRAGAN^A [anc. Bragantid], a tn. Por tugal, prov. Tras-os-Montes, in a pleasant and fertile plain on the little river Fervenca, 24 m. N.W. Miranda. It ranks as a fortress, being surrounded by walls, though in a ruinous condition, and defended by a citadel ; is the seat of a bishopric, suffragan to Braga ; has two churches, three monasteries, a college, and manufactures of silk and velvet. Braganza is said to have been founded by Sancho I., in 1187. In 1640, John II., eighth Duke of Braganza, ascended the throne of Portugal, under the name of John IV., and from him is de scended the present royal family, who retain the name of Bra ganza. Pop. 3315. BRAGENAS. See DRAMMEN. BRAHESTAD, a small seaport, Russian Finland, N.E. shore of Gulf of Bothnia, dist. of, and 37 m. S.W. Uleitborg. The port is good, and some trade is carried on in pitch and tar. Pop. about 1000. BRAH1LOW, or BRAILOFF, a fortified tn. Turkey in Europe, Wallachia, r. bank, Danube, of which it is one of the posts, 99 m. from its mouth, and may be reached by any vesse capable of entering that river; lat. 45 15 N.; Ion. 27 54 E. The houses are regularly built, and several handsome new streets have recently been added a result of the increas ing prosperity of the town, in which all the foreign trade of the province centres. It contains several large granaries and commodious warehouses. The principal exports are wheat, tallow, hides, beef, wool, salt, timber, staves, &c. It has, besides, a valuable sturgeon-fishery. The chief merchants are Greeks, but of late years several English houses have been established iu the town. Pop. 6000. BRAHMAPOOTRA, BRAHMAPUTRA, and erroneously, BURREMPOOTER [offspring of Brahma], one of the largest rivers of Asia, formed by the junction of three streams, which unite in the N.E. part of Upper Assam, in lat. 27 47 N.; Ion. 95 30 E.; 1026 ft. above the sea level. These rivers are called, respectively, the Dihong, Dibong, and Lohit or Luhit, and have each, in turn, been represented as the head stream of the Brahmapootra, but without any of them having been left in undisputed possession of that honour. Nor, in the present state of information on the subject, can this point be yet confidently decided. All probability, however, is in favour of the Dihong ; but this, again, is on the presumption that it is a continua tion cf the Sanpo a presumption which, although apparently highly probable, is by no means free from uncertainty. The Sanpo, a very large river, and on this account worthy to be the head stream of the Brahmapootra, rises in Tibet, on the N. slopes of the Himalaya, in lat. 30 8 X.; Scpjierv of Portugal and Spa BRAHOOIC MOUNTAINS 472 BRAMBANAN km. 82 10 E.; nearly opposite the sources of the Ganges, on the S. side of the range, and not far from those of the Indus. It flows in an E. direction, parallel to the Himalayas, for about 750 m., or to about Ion. 95 E., when, as is presumed, it sud denly bends round to the S., cuts through the Himalayas, as the Indus does between Iskardo and Attock, and enters Upper Assam under the name of the Dihong, where, in lat. 27 50 , j it is joined by the Dibong and Lohit, and then becomes the Brahmapootra, a name which it retains till within about 30 m. of its embouchure, when it is called the Megna. From the point at which it is joined by the Dibong and Lohit, the Brahma pootra flows in a S.W. direction, through the centre of Assam, to Ion. 90 15 E., when it bends round, proceeds nearly due S., and falls into the Bay of Bengal ; its outlets mingling almost undistinguishably with those of the Ganges. The length of the Brahmapootra, from the point at which it obtains that name, or from the junction of its head streams in Assam to its embouchure, is between 500 and 600 m. If the Sanpo is taken as the original stream, the entire length of this great | river will be nearly 1 4UO m. The volume of water discharged | by it during the dry season, is about 146,188 cubic ft. in a second ; the quantity discharged by the Ganges in the same : time, and under the same circumstances, is only 80,000 cubic ft. In the annual floods, the quantity of water poured through the tributaries of the Brahmapootra from their snowy sources is very great ; the plains of Upper Assam are an en- i tire sheet of water from the middle of June to the middle of September ; the only means of communication then being by elevated causeways 8 or 10 ft. high. Its waters unite also with those of the Ganges in overflowing the E. portions of Bengal. In its course through Assam and Hindoostan, the Brahmapootra forms numerous islands, some of which are of very considerable extent. For 60 m. from its embouchure, it is about 4 or 5 m. in breadth, and interspersed with numer ous islets and sandbanks, and were it not for the freshness of the water, it might be taken for an arm of the sea. From its mouth to the junction of the three head streams in Upper Assam, the river is navigable for the boats of the country ; i and above the junction, up the Lohit, there is plenty of water for canoes for many miles further. Its waters are usually I thick and dirty, and its banks, during the latter part of its ! course, mostly covered with jungle or marsh land. It is : subject to the sudden and abrupt influx of the tide called the bore, but not to such an extent as the Hooghly, the principal branch of the Ganges. Its principal affluents in Upper Assam are, the Dikho, Deesung, Booree-dehing, Noa-dehing, and Debooroo, with a great number of smaller streams. Those i in Bengal are the Soormah, Barak, and Goomty on the left ; i and the Gadada, Neelcomer, and Teesta on the right. The Dibong and Lohit, the two other alleged head streams of the Brahmapootra, flow from the N.E., and have their sources in a mountainous district in the S.E. corner of Tibet, and within about 30 or 40 m. of each other. The Lohit is formed by the junction of two mountain-streams, the Talooding and Talooka, which unite at lat. 28 12 N.; Ion. 97 10 E. BRAHOOIC MOUNTAINS, a name given by Pot- tinger to the Hala Mountains, between Beloochistan and Scinde. BRATC-Y-PWLL HEAD, N. Wales, co. Carnarvon; lat. 52 47 N.; Ion. 4 48 W. BRAILES, par. Eng. Warwick; 5220 ac. Pop. 1284. BRAILSFORD, par. Eng. Derby; 5200 ac. Pop. 756. BRAINE L ALLEUD, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. S. Brabant, 13 m. S. by E. Brussels. Part of the operations of the battle of Waterloo were in this commune, in which is raised a mound surmounted with a colossal lion, to com memorate the event. Clothing, leather, glass, &c., are manu factured here ; and in the commune are some quarries of paving- stones, but the inhabitants are chiefly agricultural. Pop. 4645. BRAINE-LE-COMTE. 1, A small and anc. tn. Belgium, prov. Hainaut, 34 m. S.S.W. Brussels; containing a hand some church, founded in the 13th century, and a large well- built chateau. The Southern Railway branches off from this town, on the W. side, to Mons and Quievrain, E. to Namur | and Charleroi. Amongst its public works are, breweries, wire-works, dyeworks, oil, cotton, and corn mills. At one time it manufactured and dealt extensively in tin wares, but this branch of trade is almost if not entirely extinct. Pop. I 1100. 2, A com. Belgium, prov. Brabant, with a brewery, and a paper and two cotton mills. Pop. 2350. BRAINTF1ELD, par. Eng. Hertford ; J540ac. P. 201. BRAINTREE,a market tn. and par. England, co. Essex. The town, pleasantly situated on a rising ground on the Brain, 40 m. N.E. London, consists of three principal streets, and several smaller; the former spacious, commodious, and well kept, but the latter dirty and inconvenient. A new town, in which the streets are wide, and most of the houses provided with small gardens, is forming between the railway terminus and the town, and rapidly extending towards Braintree. All the new houses are of brick. The town is lighted with gas, and tolerably well supplied with water from wells and springs. The corn exchange, recently built, is the only public building worthy of notice ; it is a commodious structure, in the Corinth ian style of architecture. Braintree has a church, a Congre gational, and two Baptist chapels; one boy s free school, two boys boarding and day schools, two girls schools, and several other smaller schools ; several religious and benevolent so cieties, and a mechanics institute. The manufactures consist of silk and crape weaving. The former gives employment to about 470 persons altogether; the latter employs about six looms. The town is increasing in size and population. Area of par. 2500 ac. Pop., tn. and par. (1841), 3670. BRAITHWELL, par. Eng. York, W. Riding ; 2990 ac Pop. 800. BRAKE, a vil. duchy of Oldenburg, circle, Ovelgonne, on the Weser, 16m. N.E. Oldenburg. It forms part of the parish of Hammelwarden, and has a wool market, and some woollen manufactures, a dyework, and printfield. It is chiefly, however, as a shipping port that Brake possesses importance, being one of the principal commercial entrepots in the duchy. The Bremen ships usually stop here, being unable to get fur ther up the Weser ; and in the building-yards, vessels of 300 to 400 tons are built. In 1848, the number of vessels that entered was 394 ; and in 1849, 297. Of the former, 109 were British; of the latter, 70. Pop. 1397. BRAKEL. 1, A tn. Prussia, Westphalia, gov. Minden, on the Brucht, near its confluence with the Netthe, 32 m. N.N.W. Cassel. It is walled, has two E. Catholic churches, a synagogue, a monastery, an hospital, and a workhouse. The inhabitants depend chiefly on agriculture, more particularly the culture of flax. They have also breweries and distill eries. In the neighbourhood are glassworks, and a mineral spring of some repute. Pop. 2560. 2, Brakel (Neder), a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. E. Flanders, 19 m. S. by Ei Ghent, 1. bank, Zwalin, a small tributary of the Scheldt. It is regu larly built, and has a church, communal, and several private schools ; dyeries, bleacheries, breweries, malt-houses, a salt refinery, three oil-mills, and a flax-mill. Several cattle-fairs are held annually. Pop. 3763. 3, JJraJcel ((ty), a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. E. Flanders, 1 in. S.W. the above. The village is small but neatly built, and possesses a church and two primary schools. The inhabitants are chiefly en gaged in weaving, grinding corn and oil, and in husbandry. Pop. 2120. BRAMBACIL 1, A tn. Saxony, circle, Zwickau, on the Geisberg, on the Bohemian frontier, 11 m. N. Eger. It contains a castle and several mills, and has some linen manu factures and general trade. Pop. 1200. 2, A tn. Nassau, cap. bail, of same name, r. bank, Rhine, 7 m. W. Nassau. It lies well, but is a dull place, with dark narrow streets. It contains a palace and a parish church. Pop. 1507. BRAMBANAN, a dist., isl. Java, prov. Soorakarta, famous for its magnificent remains of Brahrninical temples. These were first visited by a Dutch engineer, who found them nearly buried under the luxuriant vegetation of the soil. They were afterwards examined by Colonel C. Mackenzie, in 1812. An intelligent sepoy from Benares, who accompanied h : m, and who was perfectly acquainted with the history and purpose of the sculptured objects in Hindoo temples, was lost in surprise at the number, magnitude, and superior execution of those at Brambanan, to which he said that India could furnish no parallel. The temples at Brambanan are entirely composed of plain hewn stone, without the least mixture of brick, mortar, or rubbish of any kind, even to fill up the floors and basements of the largest structures. Capt. Baker, afterwards employed by Sir T. S. Raffles to take measurements and drawings of them, declares, after extensive experience BRAMBER 473 BRANDENBURG of like surveys in India, that he had never met with such finished specimens of human labour, and of ancient science and taste, crowded together in so small a compass as at the Chandi Sewu or Thousand Temples, at Brambanan. On the S. face there are two gigantic figures in a kneeling posture, and of ^errific forms, appearing to threaten, with uplifted clubs, impertinent intruders. The ground plan is disposed in five parallelograms, one within the other, of which the outer con sists of 84 small temples, 22 on each face ; the second, of 76 ; the third, of 64 ; the fourth, of 44 ; and the central one, of 28 ; in all 296 temples. In the centre of the whole stands the great temple, about 90 ft. in height, and still a magnificent monument, though rent and overgrown by the trees that cover it. The style, taste, and execution of the sculpture with which the great temple in particular is covered, are light, chaste, and beautiful, and the figures, 3848 in number, display a wonderful variety of mythological characters. But of the smaller temples, at least two-thirds lay strewed on the ground. BRAMBER, a vil. and par. England, co. Sussex. The village is 9 m. N.W. Brighton, on the Adur, which, from this place to the sea, at New Shoreham, is called the Bramber water, and is navigable for small craft. It has a Norman church, and the remnants of an old castle. Though now con sisting of only a few cottages, Bramber was once a parlia mentary borough, and continued to send two members to the House of Commons, till it was disfranchised by the Reform Act. Area of par. 870 ac. Pop. 138. BRAMCOTE, par. Eng. Notts ; 1000 ac. Pop. 732. BRAMDEAN, par. Eng. Hants; 1360 ac. Pop. 225. BRAMERTON, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 1000 ac. Pop. 229. BRAMFIELD, par. Eng. Suffolk; 2050 ac. Pop. 746. BRAMFORD, par. Eng. Suffolk; 1940 ac. Pop. 881. BRAMHAM, a tn. and par. England, co. York, W. Rid ing. The town, on an acclivity, 4 m. S.S.W. Wetherby, consists chiefly of two main streets, intersecting each other ; well kept ; houses, principally of stone, and well built ; sup ply of water ample. Area of par. 5260 ac. Pop. 2760. BRAMLEY, a chapelry, England, co. York, bor. and 4 m. N.W. Leeds, with an Episcopal and several Dissenting chapels, and three schools. Woollen cloths, chiefly for the Leeds market, are extensively manufactured here, and near it are quarries of excellent building stone. P. (1851), 8949. BRAMLEY, two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Hants; 2350 ac. Pop. 428. 2, par. Surrey ; 4420 ac. Pop. 970. BRAMPFORD-SPEKE, par. Eng. Devon; 670 ac. Pop. 393. BRAMPTON, a market tn. and par. England, co. Cum berland. The town, 9 m. N.E. Carlisle, is irregularly built, but well paved, and kept tolerably clean ; amply supplied with with water, well lighted with gas, and generally improving. It contains a handsome octagonal market-house, a church, a Presbyterian chapel, three Dissenting places of worship, five private schools, and a national and infant school, supported by subscription. Calico-weaving is carried on to a small ex tent. There are two breweries in the town. Area of par., 16,970 ac. Pop. 3304. (Local Correspondent.) BRAMPTON, nine pars. Eng.: 1, par. Huntingdon; 3640 ac. Pop. 1164. 2, par. Norfolk ; 530 ac. Pop. 263. 3, par. Northampton; 2290 ac. Pop. 104. 4, par. Suffolk; 1800 ac. Pop. 322. 5, Brampton-with- Cutthorpe, par. Derby ; 8820 ac. Pop. 3937. 6, Brampton (Abbot s), par. Hereford; 1600 ac. Pop. 197. 7, Brampton- Bryan, par. Radnor and Hereford; 3190 ac. Pop. 419. 8, Brampton- Chapel, par. Northampton; 1330 ac. Pop. 229. 9, Brampton- Church, or Brampton- Magna, par. Northampton; 1100 ac. Pop. 169. BRAMSHALL, par. Eng. Stafford; 1310 ac. Pop. 170. BRAMSHAW, par. Eng. Wilts and Hants; 2760 ac. Pop. 793. BRAMSHOT, par. Eng. Hants; 6190 ac. Pop. 1313. BRAMSTEDT [Danish, Bramsted], a tn. Denmark, Hoi- stein, cap. bail. Segeberg, 22 m. N. Hamburg, on the Bramawa, a tributary of the Storen, and on the high road from Kiel to Altona. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in agriculture and weaving. Here are some sulphur and chalybeate springs and baths. Pop. 1700. BRAMWITH (KIRK), par. Eng. York, W. Riding; 1200 ac. Pop. 251. BRAN (THE), a rivulet, Scotland, Perthshire, issuing from the E. end of Loch Freuchie, and after a N.E. course of VOL. I. about 14m. through the strath to which it gives its name, falls into the Tay a little above Dunkeld Bridge. BRANCASTER, par. Eng. Norfolk; 3340 ac. Pop. 913. BRANCEPETH, par. Eng. Durham; 21, 850 ac. P. 2 151. BRANCO, a high and rugged islet, Cape de Verde group, between Santa Luzia and Santa Nicolao. It has a well on it, and some decayed small wood ; and a low sandy spit runs out from its S.E. side. BRANCO. 1, A large river, Brazilian Guiana. It rises from various sources on the S. confines of British Guiana and Venezuela, flows S., and falls into the Rio Negro ; lat. 1 25 S. ; Ion. 62 10 W. ; after a course of 400 m., in which it receives numerous affluents. 2, An affluent of the Rio Grande, prov. Bahia, in the part lately annexed from Pernambuco. It rises in the serra Duro; lat. 11 25 S.; Ion. 46 10 W.; flows S.E. a course of about 120 m., and is navigable from its mouth to Tres-Barras, a distance of 40 m. BRAND, a tn. Saxony, circle, Dresden, inhabited chiefly by miners. Pop. 2150. Numerous places in Germany have the same name. BRANDEIS, a tn. Bohemia, 14 m. N.E. Prague, called also Brandeis-on-the-Elbe, to distinguish it from another Brandeis, on the Adler. It has a castle, a deanery church, a synagogue, and a manufacture of liqueurs. Pop. 2500. BRANDEIS-ON-THE- ABLER has a pop. of 1172. BRANDENBURG (MARK, or MARGRAVIATE OF), an anc. fief of the German Empire, and identical with the modern province of the same name, with the addition of a part called the Old [Alt] Mark, which is now included in the province of Saxony. The country was first possessed by the Varini, and thereafter, from the fifth century, by the Wends, till their sub jugation by Charlemagne. In 926, the Mark was united to the dukedom of Saxony, but in 1 143, under Albert the Bear, it was separated and became an immediate fief of the Empire. In the 14th century, it passed to the two houses of Bavaria and Luxembourg, the latter of which sold it to the burgrave of Niirnberg, Frederick, a younger branch of the house of Hohenzollern, under whom it became the nucleus of the pre sent Prussian Monarchy. BRANDENBURG, a prov. Prussia, the centre of the monarchy, bounded, N. by the two grand duchies of Mecklen- burg-Schwerin and Strelitz, and the Prussian province of Po- merania ; E. by provs. W. Prussia, Posen, and Silesia; S. by provs. Silesia, and Saxony, and the Anhalt principalities ; W. byprov. Saxony, and the Hanoverian dominions ; 15,330sq.m., about a seventh part of the whole surface of the Prussian States. It is divided into the governments of Potsdam and Frankfort, and 34 circles. Its principal towns are Berlin, Potsdam, Frankfort, Brandenburg, &c. The province is almost an entire plain, slightly elevated above the level of the Baltic Sea. The soil is extremely poor, being composed mostly of tracts of barren sand, and extensive heaths and moors. The principal products are grain, chiefly buckwheat, potatoes, wool, hemp, flax, tobacco, timber, hops, &c. Much attention is also paid to the rearing of cattle and sheep, particularly the latter, the breed of which has been much improved of late years. Lakes are numerous, some of them of considerable beauty, and well supplied with fish. Its principal streams are the Elbe, the Oder, the Spree, and the Havel ; but the first two merely skirt the territory, the one forming the N.W. bound ary, the other the E. The climate of Brandenburg is temperate, but exceedingly variable, and subject to violent winds. The minerals are iron, gypsum, lime, alum, brown coal (lignite), and saltpetre. There are several mineral springs. The greater portion of the inhabitants are of German descent, a few of French, most of whom are settled in Berlin. The majority of the former are of the Lutheran religion. The manufactures are confined almost exclusively to a few towns. Pop. (1841), 2,066,993. The province is well supplied with good roads, and is traversed by the railways from Berlin to Leipzig, Halle, Dresden, Stettin, Hanover, and Hamburg. BRANDENBURG, a tn. .Prussia, prov. of same name, gov. Potsdam, cap. circle of W. Havelland, 35 m. W.S.W. Berlin, on the Havel, which divides it into two parts, the old town and the new, with an island in the middle, on which is a castle, cathedral church, equestrian college, and other build ings. The streets in the old town are narrow and crooked, those in the new town broad and straight. They are both walled, the former having five gates, the latter four; some of CO BRANDENBURG 474 BRAUNSEIFEN these pates are very handsome. It contains, inclusive of the cathedral church, eight churches, one of which, the church of St. Katherine, though of brick, is of heautiful architecture; five hospitals, a council-house, a puhlic library, a gymnasium, with a number of elementary and charity schools. Its manufactures consist of woollens, linens, brandy, beer, leather, stockings, &c. It has, besides, a considerable trade in shipping, and in fishing ; and is on the railway from Berlin to Magdeburg. Pop. (1846), 17,589. Numerous places in Prussia have the name of BRANDENBURG. BRANDENBURG (NEW), the largest and most beau tiful tn. in the grand duchy of Mecklenburg- Strelitz. It lies at the N. end of Lake Tollen, 55m. W.N.W. Stettin; is walled, and has four gates. It is regularly built; has a palace, a townhall, two churches, a chapel, several schools, a theatre, and two squares. The palace stands in the market place, and is a long low building. The inhabitants are generally in comfortable circumstances, and carry on trade in tobacco, hides, rags, paper, and horses. Manufactures: tobacco, paper, soap, leather, and cloth ; with oil, bark, fulling, and corn mills. Pop. 6145. BRANDESTON, two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Norfolk; 580 ac. Pop. 137. 2, par. Suffolk, 10(50 ac. Pop. 555. BRANDON, a market tn. and par. England, co. Suffolk. The town consists of two portions, the more important of which, called Town Street, is pleasantly situated 33 m. N.W. Ipswich, on the Little Ouse or Brandon, over which is a neat stone bridge ; and the remaining portion, called Ferry Street, about 1 m. lower down, where there is a ferry for the con veyance of goods to the Isle of Ely. The church, situated midway between the two streets, is a handsome structure, with a lofty embattled tower. There are also places of worship for Primitive and Wesleyan Methodists, a free school, an alms-house, and several minor charities. Gun-flints were wont to be extensively manufactured here ; and a considerable trade is carried on in corn, malt, coals, bricks, iron, and timber. The extensive rabbit-warrens in the neighbourhood afford large supplies to the London market. Weekly market on Thursday, and annual fairs in February, June, and November. The Eastern Counties Kailway has a station here. The Duke of Hamilton and Brandon takes the latter title from this place. Area of par. 5570 ac. Pop. 2002. BRANDON (LITTLE), par. Eng. Norfolk; lOlOac. P.222. BRANDON BAY, AND HEAD, W. coast, Ireland, co. Kerry. The bay is 4J m. wide at its entrance, and stretches about 5 m. inland. It is formed between Brandon Head on the W. lat. 52 18 N. ; Ion. 10 10 W. (R.) and a narrow neck of land on the E., which separates Brandon from Tralee Bay. BRANDSBURTON, par. Eng. York, E. Riding; 3140 ac. Pop. 718. BRANDYWINE CREEK, a small stream, U. States, rising in Pennsylvania, flowing S.E. through part of Delaware, forming the harbour of Wilmington, where it falls into the Delaware river, after a course of about 40 m. It is navigable to Brandy wine village, where there is 8 ft. water at high tide. BR ANNIXTO WN, par. Irel. Kildare ; 889 ac. Pop. 111. BRANSBY-wiTH-STEARSBY, par. Eng. York, N. Riding ; 2700 ac. Pop. 304. BR ANSCOMBE, par. Eng. Devon ; 1 750 ac. Pop. 956. BRANSTON, par. Eng. Leicester ; 960 ac. Pop. 333. BRANTHAM, par. Eng. Suffolk ; 1940 ac. Pop. 404. BRANTINGHAM, par. Eng. York, E. Riding; 3040 ac. Pop. 635. BRANTOME [anc. Brantosomum], a tn. France, dep. Dordogne, 13m. N.W. Perigueux, on the Drome. It was formerly fortified, and had a rich Benedictine abbey, said to have been founded by Charlemagne. The building still re mains, and annexed to it is a church of singular construc tion. A crypt near the abbey has some bas-reliefs, with curious colossal figures. The town has some manufactures of serges and bombazine, tanneries, and dyeworks, and ex ports large quantities of truffles. Brantome, the historian, field this abbey in ccmmendam, and wrote part of his works here. In the neighbourhood is a curious tolmen, consisting of a large horizontal block, 10 ft. long by 4 ft. broad, resting, about 7 ft. from the surface, on three smaller blocks. Pop. 1413. BRANXTON, par. Eng. Northumberland; 1120ac. Pop. 2G1. BRASS. 1, A river, Africa, Guinea, being one of the mouths of the Niger, falling into the Gulf of Biafra; lat. 4 20 N.; Ion. 6 C 12 E. 2, A tn. near the mouth of the above, where the slave-trade is carried on to a great extent, chiefly by agents from Havanna and Brazil. BRASSAC. 1, A. tn. France, dep. Tarn, 12 m. E.N.E. Castres, traversed by the Agout, which is here crossed by a bridge. It has manufactures of corduroy, moleskins, and cotton fabrics. Pop. 1301. 2, A vil. France, dep. Puy-de Dome, 8 m. S. Issoire, 1. bank, Allier, which is here navigable, and makes Brassac the entrepot for the coal which is exten sively worked, in a coal field of the same name in the neigh bourhood. Pop. 938. BRASSCIIAET, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. of, and 7 m. N.E. Antwerp, on the great road between that city and Breda. The inhabitants are chiefly occupied with agriculture, disposing of their produce at Antwerp. They have also some trade in madder. Pop. 2468. BRASSO. See KRONSTADT. BRASTED, par. Eng. Kent ; 4630 ac. Pop. 1130. BRATSLAV, a tn. Russia, gov. Podolia, cap. dist. of same name, r. bank, Bug, 110 m. E. Kaminietz. It is de fended by an old rampart and fosse, and makes some figure in history, having been taken successively by the Poles and Turks, previous to its final reunion with Russia. Pop. 2600. BRATTLEBY, j>ar. Eng. Lincoln ; 1220 ac. Pop. 168. BRATTON, three pars. Eng.: 1, Bratton-Clovelly, par. Devon ; 8200 ac. Pop. 870. 2, Bratton-Fleming, par. Devon ; 4370 ac. Pop. 708. 3, Bratton-Seymour, or St. Maur, par. Somerset; 1170 ac. Pop. 103. BRAUGH IN, par. Eng. Hertford ; 4300 ac. Pop. 1358. BRAUNA. 1, A fortified tn. Upper Austria, gov. Linz, on the confines of Bavaria, 28 m. S.W. Passau, at the conflu ence of the Salza with the Inn. It has manufactories of cloth, and paper, some celebrated breweries, several churches, one of them an old Gothic church, built of tufa stone ; a townhall, barrack, and an arsenal. Pop. 2000. 2, Brauna, a tn. and lordship, N.E. corner of Bohemia, circle, Kbniggratz. The LORDSHIP consists of a valley about 30 m. long by 5 m. broad, bounded towards the N.E. and S.W. by lofty hills. It is fertile, and rears great numbers of cattle. Pop. 17,046, who are almost all R. Catholics, and speak German. The TOWN stands in the centre of the valley on the Steine, has two churches, one of them a large building, with two towers, several fine frescoes, and an excellent organ ; a gymnasium, and a town school, with 360 scholars. The chief employ ments are weaving and spinning. Pop. 1 699. BRAUNCEWELL-wrm-DuNSBY, par. Eng. Lincoln; 3470 ac. Pop. 125. BRAUNFELS, a tn. Prussia, prov. Rhine, gov. of, and 36 m. E.N.E. Coblenz. It has a handsome palace, adorned with fine pictures, and surrounded by well laid out gardens. Pop. 1472. The principality of the same name has an area of 50 geo. sq. m., and pop. 20,000. BRAUNHIRSCHEN, a vil. Austria, in the immediate neighbourhood of Vienna. It contains a palace, and a church, and has several large manufacturing establishments. Pop. 2700. BRAUNSBERG, a tn. Prussia, prov. E. Prussia, gov. Kbnigsberg, circle of same name ; on the Passarge, about 4 m. from its junction with the Frische Haff ; lat. 54 19 N. ; Ion. 19 54 E.; divided by the river into the old and new towns. It is the residence of the Bishop of Ermeland, and the seat of a royal court of justice ; contains four R. Catholic churches, and one Protestant church; a R. Catholic lyceum, with theo logical and philosophical faculties ; a gymnasium, and semi nary for priests, with six professors; a normal school, an asylum, and three hospitals. It has some linen and woollen manufactures, and tanneries; and a considerable trade in yarns, grain, and ship-timber, the river being navigable for small vessels as far as the town. Pop. 8161 . The CIRCLE, area, 280 geo. sq. m., contains 172 parishes, four towns, and 178 villages. The surface is well wooded, and the soil toler ably rich, both in arable and pasture land. It is watered by several considerable streams, and has good roads. Pop. 41,716. BRAUNSEIFEN, a small tn. Austria, Moravia, circle of, and 18 m. N.N.E. Olmiitz; with a handsome parish church, adorned with frescoes, an hospital, two workhouses, and a great number of looms for weaving linen. Pop. 2062. BRAUNSTON 475 BRAZIL BRAUNSTON, two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Northampton; 3930 ac. Pop. 1469. 2, par. Rutland; 3250 ac. Pop. 443. BRAUNTON, par. Eng. Devon; 7010 ac. Pop. 2274. BRAVA. 1, One of the Cape de Verde Islands, 10 m. W. by S. Fogo ; lat. (W. point) 14 49 42" N. ; Ion. 24 45 15" \V. (R.) It is very high, and would be visible from a great distance were it not constantly covered by a dense atmos phere. It has a temperate climate, fertile soil, and produces abundant crops of beans and Indian corn. It possesses four anchorages ; but none of them being safe for vessels of burden, they are only frequented by small craft for orchilla i and grain. Pop. 2000. 2, A tn., E. Africa, coast of Zan- j guebar, 110 m. S.W. Magadoxo; lat. 1 6 48" N.; Ion. I 44 3 E. (R.) It stands at the foot of a hill composed of j sand and red earth, and has an imposing appearance on being approached from the sea. The houses of the Arabs and more [ wealthy inhabitants, are generally two stories high, and are . formed of blocks of coral, cemented with mud ; while the J poorer part of the population dwell in small huts built around the town, and very closely huddled together. Brava carries on a considerable trade with India and Arabia. BRAWDY, par., S. Wales, Pembroke. Pop. 767. BRAXTED, two pars. Eng.: 1, Braxted (Great], par. Essex ; 1240 ac. Pop. 410. 2, Braxted (Little], par. Essex; 1680ac. Pop. 126. BRAY. 1, A maritime tn. Ireland, cos. Dublin and Wicklow, on both banks of the Bray, which here forms the boundaries of these two counties, 12 m. S.E. Dublin. The portion of the town in Wicklow stands on an acclivity, that on the Dublin side on a plain. It contains but one prin cipal street, straight, but indifferently kept. The houses are mostly of stone, but not in general well built ; supply of water indifferent. The places of worship are a parish church, a chapel of ease, two R. Catholic chapels, and a Scotch and Methodist meeting-house. The schools consist of a national and several other schools. Brewing and malting are the only trades carried on in the town ; both, however, are ex tensive. There is no harbour here ; but a few small vessels are employed in the importation of coals, limestone, and j slates, and are run upon the beach at high water, where their cargoes are unshipped. The scenery in the vicinity is beauti- 1 (ul. Pop. 3185. (Local Correspondent] 2, A vil. and j par. England, co. Berks. The village, 4J m. N.W. Windsor, j now forming part of the royal demesne, and included within : the liberty of Windsor forest, contains a spacious parish church, an endowed school for boys, a national school for girls, and an hospital for 40 poor persons. It derives con siderable notoriety from the conduct of the time-serving vicar, who, according to Fuller, conformed to all thp changes in j religion that took place during the reign of Henry VIII. and j his three immediate successors ; and expressed his determin- i ation to be true to the one principle, of living and dying ; Vicar of Bray. Area of par. 8900 ac. Pop. (1841), 3722. j BRAYBROOKE, par. Eng. Northampton; 3060 ac. I Pop. 420. BRAY FIELD (COLD), par. Eng. Bucks; 530 ac. Pop.83. BRAYTOFT, par. Eng. Lincoln; 1220 ac. Pop. 235. | BRAYTON, par. Eng. York, W. Riding; 10,690 ac. Pop. 1894. BRAZIL [French, Bresil; German, Brasilien; Italian, Brasile], a vast empire, S. America, occupying a space nearly equal to one-half of that entire continent. It is of extremely irregular outline, and varying dimensions ; its greatest dia meter being, E. to W.,or from Cape Augustin, lat. 8 21 S.; Ion. 34 56 W. (R.), to the river Yavari or Jabary, which separates it from Peru, 2630 m. ; and, N. to S., from Cape Orange, lat. 4 23 N. ; Ion. 37 27 W. (R.), E. of Oyapok Bay, to the river Tahim, E. from Lake Mirim, 2540 m. ; area, roughly estimated at 3,956,800 sq. m. It is bounded, S.E., E., and N.E. by the Atlantic Ocean; N. by French, Dutch, and English Guiana, and Venezuela ; W. and S.W. by Ecua dor, Peru, Bolivia, Paraguay, and the Argentine republic of Missiones, and by the republic of Uruguay. Its entire coast line, from the river Tahim or Itahy, lat. 32 45 S., to the head of the Bay of Oyapok, lat. 4 N. ; Ion. 51 32 W., is upwards of 3700 m. Throughout this vast extent of coast, there are few great indentations; though, in some parts, smaller harbours and inlets are pretty numerous, many of the former excellent, and generally surrounded by flats. The principal bays, reckoning from the S. extremity of the empire, are, Ilha Grande, Rio Janeiro, St. Salvador, or All Saints , on the S.E. coast ; and St. Marcos, St. Jose, Pinzon, and Oyapok, on the N. and N.E. coast. The principal capes or headlands are, Capes Frio, St. Thome, Point St. Antonio, St. Augustin, St. Roque, on the S E. and E. coasts ; and Magoary, Norte, and Orange, on the N. coast. General Description. The appearance of the coast of Brazil is very different at different places. From the river Tahim to the island of Sta. Catharina, a distance of about 400 m., it is low, sandy, and intersected by the outlets of numerous lakes or lagoons, which skirt the shores throughout this whole extent. From this point, or from about lat. 27 30 S., to lat. 21 45 S., 700 m., the land is very elevated, appearing rugged and mountainous from a distance, but, when more nearly approached, becoming highly picturesque ; its hills being clothed with thick woods, and its valleys with a never- fading verdure. This part of the coast, the most rocky por tion of which is between Santos and Cape Frio, may be seen from sea from a distance of 55 m. From lat. 21 45 S., or from about St. Joao to Bahia, lat. 13 S., 650 m., the coast is in general low and level, with hardly any indentations. From Bahia to about lat. 4 N., which embraces the whole E. projection of Brazil, the coast (about 800 m. in extent) is of moderate height, nowhere rising above 30 ft., and is also de stitute of harbours, excepting those formed by the mouths of rivers. From this point to the Amazon, it is extremely low and marshy ; W. and N. of that river it is sandy, and some what higher, though still of inconsiderable elevation. From these details, it will be seen that the only portion of the coast of Brazil that can be called mountainous, or which has any pretension to picturesque appearance, is that between the island of Sta. Catharina, lat. 27 35 S., and St. Joao da Praia, lat. 21 40 S., or about a fifth part of the whole. With the exception of the Rio Francisco and the Parana, all the large rivers of Brazil empty themselves on its N. shores ; and nearly all run parallel courses from S. to N., traversing the vast plains which occupy the centre and N.W. portions of the empire, and presenting means of internal communication unequalled in any other part of the globe. The surface of Brazil, generally, is divided into upland and lowland, in pretty equal portions ; the former, which comprises the hilly districts and table-lands, extends over the E., S., and central parts, and has an average elevation of about 2000 to 2500 ft., although at some points it reaches from 4000 to 6000 ft. ; the lowland comprises the silvas or woody regions, and llanos or plains and flats ; the former lying principally along both sides of the Amazon, and the latter stretching chiefly along the N. and N.E. shores. Brazil is divided, politically, into 18 provinces, of which there are at least 11, each exceeding Great Britain in super ficial extent. It is, however, very difficult to ascertain ac curately the area of the provinces, and of the whole empire, the existing data being very unsatisfactory and conflicting. In the following table, the area of the provinces has been cal culated from the measurements given in Diccionario Geo- grafico do Imperlo do Brazil, 1845; and the population has been supplied through a private source as the most recent and most accurate existing: PROVINCES. s q re m. Population. MARITIME PROVINCES. 1 28 1- 270 205 000 JMaranhau \ Kaul y . Ceara B I Rio Grande (do Korte) jjj ( Parahylia 94,910 109,fiC8 60.378 28,860 51,948 390,000 80,0(10 190,000 110,000 260,000 g J Pernambuco " ] Ala^oas.. 103,896 75 036 600,000 20 000 W I Sergipe 40484 175 000 . f Baliia Espirito-Sunlo 202,020 43,290 89466 780,000 140,000 850000 ) Sao Paulo 173 160 458 UOO W Santa Catharina aj [ Sao Pedro (do Sul) INLAND PROVINCES. Miuas Geracs MattoGrosso Goyaz 31,746 llb,758 21(5,450 865,81.0 360,750 90,000 260,000 900,000 180,000 185,000 3,956,800 6,065,000 BRAZIL 476 BRAZIL Mountains, Table-lands, and Plains. In remarkable con trast to the countries on the W. side of the S. American con tinent, Brazil has no mountains of very great elevation ; with exception, perhaps, of Itambe, an isolated peak, in the pro vince of Minas Geraes, which is variously stated at 5960 and 8426 ft. above the sea. The higher mountains of Brazil, most of them occurring at greater and lesser distances from the E. coast, extend generally, like the Andes, from S. to N., although numerous inferior ranges traverse the country in various other directions. The most connected chains, and those in which the highest summits occur, are the Serra do Espinhaco, the Serra dos Orgaos, and the Serra do Mar. The first originates in Bahia, about lat. 15 S., and, intersecting the province of Minas Geraes, terminates at lat. 23 S. It lies parallel to the coast, and at a distance from it of about 250 m. ; its culminat ing points are Piedade, 5830 ft. high, and Itacolumi, 5750 ft. The Serra dos Orgaos [organ mountains], so called from the fancied resemblance of its peaks to the tubes of an organ, and the Serra do Mar, which form, in fact, but one chain, the first name being applied to the N.E. half of the range, and the second to the S.W., lie also parallel to the coast, N.N.E. and S.S.W., but at a distance from it of a very few miles only, extending from about lat. 22 to 27 S. The culminating point of this range, Morro dos Canudos, which occurs in the Serra dos Orgaos division, has an elevation of 4476 ft. Hilly regions also extend N. and W. from these mountain-systems, through the provinces Minas Geraes. Pernambuco, Goyaz, and Matto G rosso, but none of the peaks appear to attain any very great elevation. Towards the Rio Paraguay, the hills become lower, and terminate, on the Bolivian frontier, in ele vated marshes. In this locality occurs the water-shed between the affluents of the Amazon and La Plata. It is of very incon siderable elevation ; and some of the sources of the Madeira, which falls into the former, and of the Paraguay, the head- stream of the latter, are not more than 3 m. apart, and might easily be joined by means of a canal. The hilly region or table-land extends along the E. side of the empire as far N. as lat. 3 S., but inland, in Matto Grosso, not farther than 12 S. ; and, N. of lat. 10 S., the Serra Ibiapaba may be taken as the W. limit. This table-land occupies half the empire, together with part of the Argentine republic and Uruguay, and its average elevation is from 2000 to 2500 ft. Along the Amazon and its affluents, the vast plains or silvas are said to occupy a space equal to six times the size of France. Another great plain stretches between the Serra Ibiapaba and the river Tocantins, measuring from N. to S. upwards of 600 m., and from E. to W. more than 400. Eimrs and Lakes. The river system of Brazil is un equalled, perhaps, in any other part of the world, for the number and magnitude of the streams of which it is composed, the surface of the whole N.W. portion being interlaced with rivers of every length and volume ; presenting the complex appearance of veins in the human body, to which the Amazon and its larger tributaries may be said to stand in the relation of main arteries. By far the greater portion of these num berless streams have a N. direction, and finally find their way, either directly or through their principals, to the N. shores of the empire. The largest river of Brazil, and the largest, it is believed, in the world, though not the longest, is the Amazon, which enters the empire from the \V., about lat. 4 30 S. ; Ion. 70 W., and, after a N.E. course, from the point named, of about 800 m., falls into the Atlantic near the equator. The next in size is the Rio Francisco, which, after flowing N. for about 800 m., suddenly turns due E., and subsequently S.E., falling into the sea about lat. 11 S. In order of magnitude, follow the Rio Negro and Madeira, both tributaries of the Amazon ; the former flowing from the N.W., the latter from the S.W. The other large rivers in this portion of the empire are the Branco, a tributary of the Nio Negro; the Tapajos and Xingu, other two large tributaries of the Amazon ; the Araguay, Tocantins, Maranhao, and Paranahyba. Passing along the coast, S. from the embouchure of the Francisco, the following considerable rivers occur, the Vazabarris, Itapicuru, Paraguassu, Belmonte or Jequitinhonha, province of Bahia ; Doce, province of Espirito-Santo ; and the Paraiba-do-sul, the S. boundary of the same province. In this enumeration of the rivers having their embouchures on the E. coast of Lrazil, we have omitted an immense number of smaller streams, per- Laps not many below a hundred. In the interior of the S. portion of the empire, occur the large rivers Uruguay, Yguazu, Paranapanenm, Tieta, Para, Paraguay, and Parana, with numerous smaller streams smaller in comparison to these, but still large rivers winding in all directions through every province. Most of the rivers in this part of Brazil have a "W. and S. direction; those having the former proceeding from the W. side of the serras by which this part of the coast is lined ; and those having the latter, issuing from the hilly tract which crosses the centre of the province of Matto Grosso from E. to W., and which forms the water-shed of the W. and central part of the empire, the rivers of the province of Para flowing from it N., and those of Matto Grosso S. and W. Of the rivers last named, the Paraguay and Parana are the largest, and have the longest courses. The former has its sources in the central high lands of Matto Grosso, whence it flows nearly due S., quitting the Brazilian territory at lat. 21 S., and from this point forming the W. boundary of the independent state of Paraguay. The latter rises in the hilly district of the pro vince of Goyaz, not far from the sources of the Tocantins, although their subsequent courses are nearly in direct opposi tion ; the latter proceeding due N., while the former flows S.S. W. The Parana forms, throughout a portion of its course, the boundary between the Brazilian territory and Paraguay, quitting the former about lat. 25 40 S. Although unrivalled in the number and magnitude of its rivers, Brazil has com paratively few lakes of any great extent. The largest is the Lagoa dos Platos, in the province of Rio Grande de Sao Pedro, the most S. of the Brazilian provinces ; it is 150 m. in length, and 35 m. in breadth at the widest part, and is separated from the sea by a narrow strip of land only ; it discharges its waters into the ocean by a channel called the Rio Grande. Farther N., several smaller lakes occur, the largest of which may be from 20 to 30 m. in length. There are hardly any others worth mentioning throughout the whole of Brazil. Geology and Mineralogy. Granite prevails to the extent of 2000 m. along the coast of Brazil ; and, with syenite, forms the base of the table land. The superstructure of the latter con sists of metamorphic and old igneous rocks, sandstone, clay- slate, limestone, in which are large caverns, with bones of extinct animals and alluvial soil, of which the N. part of tho empire is almost wholly composed, being intersected by numer ous large streams. The mineral wealth of Brazil is consider able, and includes gold, silver, and iron, diamonds, topazes, and other precious stones. Amongst the earliest discovered, and first wrought gold mines, were those of Jaragua", but they have long ceased to be regularly worked ; the precious metal being found more easily, and in greater abundance, mingled with the sands and alluvial deposits of rivers. The process of separation, the gold being in small particles, is efi ected by repeated washings, which are continued until nothing but the pure metal remains at the bottom of the vessel. The entire quantity of gold produced has greatly fallen off of late years, being now hardly a fourth of what it was three quarters of a century since, owing, chiefly, to the auriferous sand having been exhausted. No country is so rich in diamonds as Brazil. The most celebrated mines are those of Serra do Frio, a dis trict surrounded by almost inaccessible rocks, and guarded with the utmost vigilance. The diamonds have been hitherto found in the beds of rivers only, and are washed from the sand and flints with which they are mingled, much in the same way as the gold. The largest known diamond was found in the Rio Abaste in 1791, and weighs 138 carats. Another, worth 45,000, was found, according to the Brazil journals, in 1847, by a negro. The negro who finds a diamond weighing 17 carats obtains his liberty, a variety of proportionate rewards being appointed for those of lesser value. About 20,000 negroes are employed in the diamond mines. The Govern ment receives one-fifth of the total value of all the gold and diamonds found in the country. Notwithstanding the sound ing names of these two items of the mineral wealth of Brazil, neither of them have been nearly so profitable, nor so bene ficial to the general interests of the country, as the homeliest of its agricultural productions. In the short space of a year and a half, the exports of sugar and coffee amounted to more than the value of diamonds found throughout a period of 80 years. Climate. As almost the whole of Brazil lies S. of the equator, and in a hemisphere where there is a greater propor tion of sea than land, its climate is generally more cool and BRAZIL 477 BRAZIL moist than that of countries in corresponding latitudes in the yield a tasteless oil, more powerfully cathartic than castor- N. hemisphere. This is particularly applicable to the flat por- oil, and now imported into Europe; the cacao or chocolate- tions of the empire, where impenetrable forests occupy the ! tree, the caesalpina echinata or Brazil-wood tree, use the name of Pernambuco wood, for dyeing silk of a crimson colour ; the rosewood-tree, the fustic, mahogany, and a variety of others well adapted for the purposes of shipbuilding. The different kinds of forests and woods in Brazil are distinguished by the inhabitants by particular names. There are the Matos Virgens, or virgin forests, such as those which exist on the Organ Mountains, and along the whole maritime cordillera ; the Catingas, consisting generally of small and deciduous trees ; the Carrascos, close-growing shrubs, about 3 or 4 ft. high ; and the Capveira, such wooded tracts as are formed by the small trees and shrubs, which spring up where virgin forests have been cleared away. The beauty, variety, and abundance of the flowers of this extraordinary country, are no less remarkable than any other of its vegetable productions. The whole country, says Mr. Gardner, through which we had passed for nearly two days, was one vast flower-garden, where, "like a child at a feast," I knew not which object to grasp at first ; everything was not only new to me, but each more beautiful, or more curious than the other. Animals. The principal domestic animals of Brazil are, horned cattle and horses ; the numbers of the former are pro digious, covering the boundless plains of the interior. The greatest part of them live in a wild state, and are not milked. Horses are numerous in the S. provinces; they are of a middling size, from 12 to 14 J hands high, but strong, lively, and swift. Mules are reared in the S. provinces. Sheep are in little repute, the meat being ill flavoured, and the wool of indifferent quality. Goats and hogs are abundant. The woods of Brazil swarm with rapacious animals, tiger cats, hyenas, saratus (a ferocious creature about the size of a fox), which seems peculiarly well adapted for the cultivation of jaguars, sloths, porcupines, &c. Wild hogs are also common, luvial plains; and, by preventing the sun s rays reaching the earth, cut off one of the principal sources of heat radiation. In the S. parts of Brazil, in consequence of the gradual narrow ing of the continent, the climate is of an insular character cool summers and mild winters. The quantity of rain that falls in Brazil differs widely in amount in different localities. The N. provinces generally are subject to heavy rains and violent storms; but the S. regions rejoice in a settled, mild, and salubrious climate. The rainy season commences in October, and usually lasts till March, setting in with heavy thunder storms. At Rio, where the climate has been much modified by the clearing away of the forests in the neighbourhood, the mean temperature of the year is 72; and the rains have been so diminished as to have seriously reduced the supply of water to the city. Generally, the climate of Brazil is delightful, diffusing and maintaining a perpetual summer throughout this favoured land. In the N. parts, the air in the lower tracts is somewhat sultry and oppressive ; but vegetation is vigorous and profuse, the ground being covered with flowers, and the trees with a foliage that is ever green ; while the nights are deliciously cool. Near the coast, the temperature is modified by the trade-wind; which, after traversing the Atlantic, fans the shores of Brazil, imparting a refreshing coolness to the atmosphere. Soil, Vegetable Productions, &c. The soil of Brazil, so far as its capabilities have been tested, is highly fertile ; although but a comparatively small portion has yet been subjected to this test, not more than a hundred and fiftieth part of the whole surface being under cultivation, and this portion is en tirely limited to the coast, and to the N.E. part of the empire, maize, sugar, and aoffee. The pastures, however, are of vast extent ; and, being covered with prodigious herds of horned cattle, form one of the principal sources of the wealth of the country. Being almost wholly within the limit of the palm region, the vegetation of Brazil is characterized generally by the peculiar physiognomy which that beautiful family of vegetables impresses on tropical countries. Of these no fewer than 100 species are native to the country. The chief food plants are sugar, coffee, cotton, cocoa, rice, tobacco, maize, wheat, manioc, beans, bananas, ipecacuanha, ginger, yams, lemons, oranges, figs, &c. ; the two first, sugar and coffee, being the staple products of the empire. The manioc is a native of Brazil, and its farina is almost the only kind of meal used in that country. An acre of manioc is said to yield as much nutriment as 6 acres of wheat. The Indians find in this beautiful and useful plant a compensation for the rice, and other cerealia of the Old World. But it is in the bound less forests of Brazil, that the vigour of the vegetative power is exhibited in its most imposing form. No language, it has been said, can describe the glory of the Brazilian forests ; the endless variety of form, the contrast of colour and size, the largest trees bearing brilliant blossoms of every hue, and clothed with a drapery of curious epiphytes and festoons of climbing plants, while thousands, of a diameter of not less than 8 and 12 ft., stand so close together, that it is impossible (the intervals being filled up with an undergrowth of plants) to clear a passage between them. In contrast to these giants of the forest stands the graceful palm, the delicate acacia and bamboos, and grasses of 40 ft. high. If the name of primeval forest, says Humboldt, can be given to any forest on the face of the earth, none can claim it perhaps so strictly as those that fill the connected basins of the Orinoco and the Amazon. But it is not in the plains alone that this gigantic vegetation is met with; the sides of the mountains are also clothed with trees of enormous size, including the most beautiful specimens of the palm and tree-fern. The cocoa-nut palm attains a great size on the sea-shores ; and the curious Bertholettia, or monkey-pot tree, the kernels of which are exported from Para under the name of Brazil nuts, is met with in many localities, but more especially in the N.W. parts of the em pire. A peculiar characteristic in Brazilian vegetation, is the host of species of myrtle-trees which, though not of much use economically, perfume the air with their exhalations. Among the more valuable trees of the Brazilian forests are the andaacu, or Purga da Paulistas (Anda Gomezii), the seeds of which as well as an amphibious animal called the water-hog or capybara, resembling a hog in form, but of the size of a heifer. Monkeys are likewise numerous ; and vampyres are in some localities so destructive, as to prevent the rearing of cattle. Amongst the feathered tribes are, the smallest, the humming bird, and one of the largest, the emu and vulture. Water fowl, especially geese and ducks, abound, in certain seasons, on the lakes and lagoons at the S. extremity of Brazil. The reptiles consist of the boa constrictor, the corral snake, the sorrocuco, and the jarraraca (Bothrops Neuwiedii, Spix), all venomous, and much dreaded by the natives, especially the last, which, when full grown, is usually aboat 6 ft. long, and is nearly allied to the rattlesnake genus. It pre vails over all the S. provinces. Its bite is attended with great suffering, and with the most serious consequences, even where death is averted. In the marshy countries of the S., the boa or python is said to attain a length of 48 ft. ; but, according to Humboldt, the largest skins which have, as yet, been brought to Europe, and carefully measured, do not exceed 21 to 23 ft. The insects of Brazil are, many of them, remarkable for the beauty of their colours and their size, especially the butterflies. Other descriptions are so numerous in the woods, that their noise is heard in a ship at anchor some distance from the shore ; while the white ants are so numerous and destructive, that Humboldt says, there is not a manuscript in S. America 100 years old. The scorpions of Brazil attain a length of 6 inches. Most of the bees of that country are stingless, there being no fewer than 30 species of that description. The shores and rivers abound with fish. Amongst the most valuable of those caught on the former, is the garopa, which attains a length of from 12 to 20 ft., and is well tasted ; they are most numerous on the coast of Bahia, where great quantities are annually taken and exported. The numbers of fish caught in the Amazon, and other rivers of the empire, is very great, constituting a prin cipal part of the subsistence of the inhabitants, European settlers as well as Indians. Literature, Education, &c. In every town schools for teaching the first rudiments are now to be found, to which all citizens are admitted free. There are two universities one in Sao Paulo, the other in Pernambuco ; of which, the former is held in the highest estimation. In all large towns there are professorships of Latin, Greek, English, French, philosophy, rhetoric, geometry, chemistry, botany, &c. ; and printing- presses are now common throughout Brazil. BRAZIL 478 BRAZZA People. The free population of Brazil consists of Euro peans, white persons born in Brazil, or native Brazilians; nmlattoes ; Mamalucoes, a mixed caste between whites and Indians; Indians in a domesticated state, called Caboclos; Indians in a savage state, called Tapuyas ; free negroes, born in Brazil; manumitted Africans; Mestizoes, a mixed caste between Indians and negroes. The slave population consists of Africans, Creole negroes, mulattoes, and Mestizoes. The native Brazilians are an idle and inactive race, with few wants, and fewer enjoyments. The mulattoes, the offspring of Euro peans and negroes, are ingenious, and evince an aptitude for the mechanical arts. The Tapuyas or native Indians of Brazil, are of a copper colour, robust, and well made, but of short stature. They generally go naked, paint their skins, and are fond of ornamenting their heads with feathers. To this race belong the Botocudes or Botucudoes, a ferocious tribe, who inhabit the banks of the Rio Doce and the Belmonte. They are said to be descendants of an ancient people called the Aymores, who distinguished themselves by their cruelty to the Portu guese, whom they slaughtered on one occasion, about the middle of the last century, without mercy, leaving impres sions of horror and apprehension on the Portuguese colonists which are not yet effaced. They go entirely naked, and render themselves hideous by the insertion of large circular pieces of wood in the lower lip and lobes of the ears, the former giving the mouth the semblance of an ape s. In other respects, they have all the personal characteristics of the Tapuyas, while some of their young women are said to be really hand some ; their light copper colour glows all over when they blush. They are said to be cannibals, and there seems little doubt that they were so at one time ; but it would appear that the practice is now becoming obsolete amongst them. Those inhabiting the banks of the Belmonte seem to be of a some what milder nature than those on the Doce, who manifest an irreconcilable hostility to the whites, and are by far the most savage tribe in Brazil, if not in all S. America. Commerce. The principal articles of import are cottons, trinkets, furniture, wax, candles, hats, dry fruits, and wine from France; glass, beer, linen, paper, &c., from Holland; the same, with the addition of iron and brass utensils, from Ger many and Bohemia ; iron, copper utensils, sailcloth, cords, ropes, &c., from Russia and Sweden; wine, brandy, fruits, &c. from Portugal, and wheat, flour, biscuits, soap, leather, &c., from America. The exports consist of coffee, sugar, cot ton, hides, cabinet and dye woods, drugs, gums, and diamonds. The value of cotton goods, nearly all from Britain, imported into Brazil between August 22, 1846, and March 22, 1848, was 2,670,200. STATKMENT o/W VAI.UK of the IMPOSTS and DOMESTIC EXFOETS or BEAZIL, in each of the years 1843, 1844, and 1S45. Imports. Exports. 1843 5,880,2o9 4,7-19,413 1(444 6,460,423 5,110,033 1846 6,676,602 6,489,679 The annual imports from Great Britain are above 3,000,000; and the exports, to the same quarter, considerably above a million. The number and tonnage of vessels that entered and cleared from the principal ports of Brazil in 1847, was: entered, 4072 vessels; tonn. 535,106; cleared, vessels 3998; tonn. 589,159. Very strenuous efforts have been re cently made by the Brazilian Government to put down the slave-trade. In September 1850, a law was passed declaring it piracy : several vessels have since been captured by Brazil ian men-of-war, and two have already been declared good prizes. (For further particulars regarding the commerce of Brazil, see BAHIA, PARA, PERNAMBCCO, and Rio I>E JANEIRO.) Religion, Government, &c. The established religion of Brazil is R. Catholic, although other religions are tolerated. The Government of the empire is monarchical, hereditary, constitutional, and representative. The Legislative power is in the General Assembly, which consists of two chambers, the Senate, and Chamber of Deputies ; the former elected for life, and the latter for four years. In 1848, the public debt stood as follows : External 6,187,050 Internal 4,914,171 Paper money in circulation 4,815,772 15,916,993 Expenditure for 1849-50, 2,680,217, being less than the receipts. The military force for 1850-51, was fixed at 25,000 men of the line, besides which there are 60,000 national guards, and each province has a well-equipped municipal guard or police force. The navy, in 1850, comprised 40 vessels of all sizes ; three frigates, seven corvettes, and nine steamers ; the remainder consisting of brigs, schooners, &c., manned in all by 3500 men. The steam force is annually on the increase. History. Brazil was discovered May 3, 1500, by Vin- cente Yanez Piu9on, one of the companions of Columbus, but was subsequently taken possession of by Pedro Alvares de Cabral. Various towns now sprung up along the coast under the auspices of the Portuguese Government, but not without much annoyance from the cupidity and jealousy, or envy, of other nations, especially the English, Dutch, and Spaniards, who repeatedly attacked and destroyed their settlements. The Portuguese, however, still retained posses sion of the country, which, notwithstanding these calamities, continued to prosper. On the invasion of Portugal in 1 808 by the French, the sovereign of that kingdom, John VI., sailed for Brazil, accompanied by his court and a large body of emigrants. Soon after arriving there, he began to im prove the condition of the country by placing the administra tion on a better footing, and throwing open its ports to all nations. On the fall of Bonaparte, the King raised Brazil to the rank of a kingdom, and assumed the title of King of Por tugal, Algarve, and Brazil. The revolution which took place in Portugal in 1820, compelling the King to return to that country, he next year sailed for Lisbon, leaving Pedro, his eldest son and successor, as lieutenant and regent. In the following year, 1822, Don Pedro, availing himself of a general wish on the part of the Brazilians for an entire separation from the parent country, declared Brazil to be a free and in dependent state, and assumed himself the title of Emperor. The King, after some slight and ineffectual attempts to re establish the former relations between Portugal and Brazil, acknowledged the independence of the latter country in 1825. Some years afterwards, a series of tumultuary proceedings ended in the abdication of Don Pedro, who left Brazil on April 7, 1831, leaving his son, who was under age, as his successor. The rights of the latter were recognized and protected, and a regency of three persons appointed by the chamber of deputies to conduct the Government during his minority. In 1840, the young Emperor was declared of age, being then in his 15th year, and was crowned on July 18, 1841. (Spix and Martins Travels in Brazil; Kidder s Brazil; Gardner s Travels in Brazil; Mrs. Somrnerville s Physical Geography; Humboldt s Aspects of Mature, and Cosmos; Diccio. Gco. Imp. Brazil; Parl. Papers; Private Information.) BRAZOS-DE-Dios, a large river, U. States, Texas, rising among the mountains in the N. W. part of the state, under the parallel of 33 N. ; flowing S.E. between the Colorado and Trinidad, and after a course of about 900 m., falling into the Gulf of Mexico, between Quintana and Velasco, 58 m. W.S.W. Galveston ; lat. 28 48 N. ; Ion. 95 40 AV. It is navigable, during freshets, for a considerable distance ; but there are only 6 ft. water on the bar at its mouth. The plain through which it flows is strongly impregnated with salt and nitre ; and one of the streams which forms its head waters, issues from a saline lake, 20 m. long, and about 6 broad. Its prin cipal affluents are, the Red Fork and Navosota. Among the towns on its banks are Milam, Nashville, Washington, and Richmond. The cotton plantations along its banks are highly productive. B RAZZA [anc. firachia], an isl. Austria, in the Adriatic Sea, and belonging to Dalmatia; lat. 43 16 42" N.; Ion. 16 37 ,30" E. (R.) It is 24 in. long, and from 5 to 7 broad ; contains 20 villages, and is separated from the mainland by a channel 12m. broad, which affords excellent anchorage for shipping. The island is very mountainous and well wooded; and in the valleys vines are grown, from which are made the best wines in Dalmatia. It produces, also, good oil, almonds, and saffron, and grain in small quantity. Much attention is paid to the cultivation of bees and silkworms. The kids and lambs of this island are prized for the delicacy of their flesh, and the cheese is also in high repute. Near St. Martin, in the E. part of the island, there is an extensive stone quarry, from which large quantities of building-stone are exported. The chief town, St. Pietro di Brazza, has a small port, de- BREADALBANE 479 BRECON fended by a mole. At Milna there is a considerable ship building yard. The island of Brazza forms a district, divided into seven communes, and gives a title to the Bishop of Lesina- Brazza. Pop. 14,090. BREADALBANE, or BKAIDALISIN, a mountainous dist. Scotland, co. Perth, in the centre of the Grampian range, about 33 m. in length, and 31 in breadth. The hills afford excellent pasturage, and the valleys are, many of them, sus ceptible of profitable cultivation. One of the most striking features of this romantic district is Loch Tay, a beautiful sheet of water, of about 16 m. in length, with an average breadth of about 1 m. From the N.E. extremity of this lake issues the river Tay, one of the three principal rivers of Scot land. Loch Lyon is another beautiful, though much smaller lake. It is situated at the head of Glenlyon, is about 3 m. long, and half a mile in breadth. The district abounds in limestone and various kinds of minerals. Breadalbane gives the title of Marquis to a branch of the family of Campbell, who are also principal proprietors. The chief seat of the family is Taymouth Castle, a magnificent residence. BREADSALL, par. Eng. Derby; 2410 ac. Pop. 620. BREAGE (ST.), par. Eng. Cornwall ; 7390 ac. P. 6166. BREA HEAD, Ireland, W. coast, co. Kerry, Valentia Island, S. side of Dingle Bay ; lat. 51 55 N. ; Ion. 10 15 W. BREAKSEA ISLAND. 1, A small isl.,S.W. extremity j of New Munster, the most S. of the two larger islands of New Zealand, at the entrance of a narrow strait between Paterson j and Resolution Islands, lat. 45 35 S.; Ion. 166 40 E. j 2, Breaksea Spit, a reef of 18 or 19 m. in length, E. coast, j Australia, stretching N. from Sandy Cape ; its extreme N. ; point is in lat. 24 24 S.; Ion. 153 18 E. BREAMORE, par. Eng. Hants ; 3440 ac. Pop. 647. BREANE, par. Eng. Somerset; 1330 ac. Pop. 126. BRECH, a tn. France, dep. Morbihan, about 20 m. from Lorient. A battle, fought here in 1364, in consequence of a challenge given by Jean de Montfort, son of Edward III., to Charles de Blois, was gained by the former, chiefly by the aid of his English allies, and gave him the crown of Burgundy. Georges Cadoudal, the celebrated Vendean partizan, was a native of Brech. A monument, begun to be erected to his memory, was abruptly terminated by the Revolution of 1830. j Pop. 134. BRECH-FFA, or BEECHVA, par., S. Wales, Carmarthen. I Pop. 109. BRECHIN, a royal bor. and par. Scotland, co. Forfar. The town is situated on an acclivity, 1. bank, S. Esk, 8 m. from its , junction with the sea at Montrose, 23 m. N.N.E. Dundee. It consists of one principal street, stretching N. to S., of another, nearly three-fourths of a mile in length, and several cross streets. The houses are all stone, and have a respectable appear ance, particularly those of recent erection ; and, on the whole, the town is rapidly improving. The cathedral church, which now forms the parish church, is situated on the N. bank of a ravine formerly a moat which separates the town from Brechin Castle. It has a large and beautiful Gothic window over the W. door, and a tower and spire 120 ft. high. Near the church stands the tall slender tower of Brechin, commonly called the Little Steeple, which has long been a puzzle to anti quarians. It is an unadorned turret of freestone, 85 ft. in height to the cornice, and 15 ft. more to the pinnacle of the spire, which has more than once been repaired. There is an interior communication to the cornice, by means of movable ladders. There are here also the remains of an ancient chapel, called Maison Dieu. The other churches are two Free, three United Presbyterian, one Original Secession, and one Congregationalist ; a Scotch Episcopal chapel, and a R. Ca tholic meeting-house. The two Free churches are handsome edifices. The public schools, which have been long celebrated, are situated in the lower floor of a building erected by Lord Panmure for educational purposes ; besides which, a building has been erected, called the Educational Institute, chiefly sup ported by Free Churchmen and Dissenters, in which also are schools, well attended by young children. Brechin has like wise a mechanics institution, occupying a handsome building, erected and endowed a few years ago by Lord Panmure, with a large library attached. The linen trade is the staple of the town. A considerable quantity of flax is annually spun into yarn, employing a large number of hands. There is also an extensive bleaching establishment here ; but the greater part of the working population within the town are employed in hand-loom weaving of linen fabrics. There are also two dis tilleries and two breweries ; the former manufacturing not less than from 80,000 to 100,000 gallons of whisky per annum. Brechin Castle, for many centuries the residence of the Maules of Panmure, stands on a precipice overlooking the Esk, and is separated from the town by a deep ravine. Brechin unites with Montrose, Forfar, Bervie, and Arbroath, in returning a member to the House of Commons; registered electors in 1850, 172. The PARISH is about 7 m. in length, and 6 m. in breadth. Pop. 7560. Pop. of tn. 3951. (Local Corre spondent.} BRECHT, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. of, and 14 m. N.E. Antwerp, with manufactures of cloth, tanneries, brew eries, a dyework, and a brick and tile work. Pop. 3126. BRECKLES, par. Eng. Norfolk; 1860 ac. Pop. 160. BRECON, or BRECKNOCK, an inland co. England, S. Wales, about 38 m. N. to S., and varying from 34 to 14 m. E. to W. ; bounded, N. and N.E. by co. Radnor, E. by co. Here ford, S.E. by co. Monmouth, S. by co. Glamorgan, and W. by cos. Carmarthen and Cardigan ; area, 482,560 ac., or 754 sq. m. It is one of the most mountainous counties in the principality, and is distinguished by great sublimity and beauty of scenery. The principal mountain-range, called the Black Mountains, traverses the S. part of the county from E. to W. ; and near its centre rises the Van or Beacon, forming the high est summit of S. Wales, and having a height of 2862 ft. The chief geological formation of Brecon is the old red sandstone, which is most largely developed in the central and S.E. dis tricts. According to Mr. Murchison, it is divisible into three minor formations ; viz., a basis of tile-stones, a centre of marls, limestones, locally called cornstones, sandstones, &c., and an upper portion, consisting of sandstones and conglomerate, which usually compose the great mountain masses, and, as in the case of the Beacon already described, ascend to their highest sum mits. In the N. districts, the rocks are still older in the series, consisting chiefly of graywacke slates, traversed and pene trated by a remarkable line of trap and porphyry. In the S., near the borders of Glamorgan, a band of mountain limestone appears, forming part of the long narrow zone which encircles the important coal fields of S. Wales. A very small and in ferior portion of this coal field is included in Brecon ; and though some ironworks have been established near its E. borders, they must derive their chief supplies, both of coal and iron, from adjoining counties. As a whole, Brecon can not boast of minerals. The river Wye forms a natural bound ary between this county and Radnor ; and the Usk, rising in the Black Mountains, crosses the county, and flows through a fine valley towards the town of Brecon. About 2 m. E. from the latter is Brecknock- Mere or Llans-afeddar, one of the largest lakes in S. Wales, abounding in otters, pike, tench, perch, and eels. The climate is, in general, temperate and salubrious. The farms are small, and the land under culti vation is about 230,000 ac. The lower parts of the county contain several fertile valleys, which yield considerable agri cultural produce, consisting of oats, wheat, rye, barley, nips, vetch, and potatoes ; also of wool, timber, butter, c " and cattle, which are sent to the markets in the neighbouring English counties. The mountains are usually of a sterile nature, and, towards their summits, produce little herbage ; but their lower slopes are verdant, and are chiefly used to pasture sheep, which are generally small, but much prized for their excellent quality. The manufactures of the county consist principally of coarse woollen cloths, stockings, and other worsted stuff s. The trade has been considerably facili tated by a canal from Brecknock to Llanelly, 18 m. in length, and 9 ft. deep, and navigable for barges of 25 tons burden, thus opening a communication with the sea ; and by the Brecon and Merthyr-Tydvil Railway. The county is divided into six hundreds, and possesses four market towns Brecon, Builth, Crickhowell, and Hay. It sends one member to Parliament j number of electors (1850), 2548. Pop. (1851), 61,474. BRECON, or BRECKNOCK, cap. of above co., and nearly in its centre, in an open valley, at the confluence of the rivers Honddu or Hondey, and Usk, over which there are four bridges; 145 m. W. by N. London It consists chiefly of three principal streets, and several smaller; most of them tolerably straight, and well kept ; and all of them paved and flagged. The houses are of stone, and generally well built, BREDA 480 BREISACH particularly those of recent erection. It is badly supplied with water, and is but indifferently lighted, though furnished with gas. The town, however, is, on the whole, improving in appearance, particularly as regards its shops and public build- ings ; of which last the most noteworthy are, the new county- ! hall, a handsome structure in the Grecian style; a new girls ! and infants school, in the Elizabethan style; a large and j commodious market-house, and a barrack. Brecon has three churches, two chapels belonging to the Independents, two Wesleyan, two Baptist, and one Calvinistic Methodist The Priory church, one of the above, is a fine structure, partly Nor man, and partly English style. Its schools are the college school, and several others for boys, for girls, and for infants. There are here an infirmary, and a mechanics institute. The trade of the town is merely of a local nature, and it has no manufactures, except that of flannel and coarse woollen cloths, wrought to a small extent. Markets three times weekly; and fairs annually, for hops, leather, cattle, &c. Brecon returns a member to the House of Commons ; registered electors in 1850, 342. The celebrated Mrs. Henry Siddons was born here in 1755. The town is of high antiquity, its origin dating A. D. 1 092, at which time its castle was built. Of this building hardly any trace now remains. Pop. 5317. BREDA, a tn. and frontier fortress, Holland, prov. N. Brabant, on the Mark, about equidistant from Bergen- op-Zoom, Antwerp, and Hertogenbosch, in a finely-wooded country. Its defences are strong, though irregular, and capable of being increased by flooding the surrounding coun try. The town is of a triangular form, has four gates and above 50 streets, nine of which open into the market-place, which is surrounded with trees. There are other charming public walks within the walls. St. Barbaras, now the parish church of the Eeformed, adorns the market-place with its lofty tower. Destroyed by lightning in 1694, it owed its restoration chiefly to William III. of England. The Luther ans also have a handsome church. The R. Catholics are divided into three parishes, of which each has a church ; and the Jews have a synagogue. The other public buildings are the castle, used for the royal military academy until the re volt of Belgium ; the Government-house ; a handsome town- house ; the palace of justice, where the local courts meet ; a bridewell, and two prisons. On the parade ground there is the great arsenal, a beautiful building; also the new and the little arsenals, and various other buildings required in a fortress of the first order. Among the public institutions there are hospitals for the old and sick, and two orphan-houses, a drawing-school, a scientific and literary association, a branch of the imitative arts society, a department of the public utility society, and three musical societies ; besides a Latin, there are other 16 schools of various kinds. From its central position, and water communication with other provinces and the sea, Breda is frequented by vessels trading with all the principal towns in Holland ; but its trade has suffered from the separation from Belgium. It has manufactories of carpets, hair-cloth, linen, hats, soap, tallow, and wax candles ; also, cotton print and dye works, tanworks, breweries, roperies, letterpress and lithographic printing-houses, a letter foundry, a copper foun dry, and japanning works ; coachmakers, armourers, &c. Previous to the revolt of the Netherlands against Philip II., Breda was a favourite residence of William I. of Orange. There he held court, and exercised a princely hospitality, occupied more with hounds and hawks than with politics. At Breda, in 1566, the famous league of the nobles was first proposed by Count Louis of Nassau and the famous Marninx, Count St. Aldegonde. Breda repeatedly fell, by force or fraud, into the hands of the Spanish or Dutch during the 80 years war of independence ; but was finally secured to the latter in 1637. The pop. of the town, 13,000, adding 2700 for the garrison, 15,700 ; of which 11,780 R. Catholics, 3700 Protestants ; and 180 Jews. BREDE, par. Eng. Sussex ; 5700 ac. Pop. 1151. BREDEN BURY, par. Eng. Hereford ; 540 ac. Pop. 46. BREDFIELD, par. Eng. Suffolk; 1630 ac. Pop. 468. BREDGAR, par. Eng. Kent; 1810 ac. Pop. 540. BREDHURST, par. Eng. Kent; 400 ac. Pop. 131. BREDICOT, par. Eng. Worcester; 430 ac. Pop. 53. BREDON, par. Eng. Worcester; 6130 ac. Pop. 1567. BREDSTEDT, a tn. Denmark, duchy of, and 27 m. W.N.W. Schleswig, near the coast. It has a church (built in 1510), a manufactory of tobacco, some trade in cattle and corn, a considerable number of looms employed in weaving linen, and owns 8 or 10 small vessels. Pop. 1800. BREDY, two pars. Eng. Dorset:!, Bndy (Little), 2190 ac. Pop. 196. 2, Bredy (Long], 2000 ac. Pop. 340. BREDWARDINE, par. Eng. Hereford; 3890ac. P. 409. BREEDE, a river, S. Africa, Cape Colony, rising in the district of Worcester, and, after a considerable course, chiefly S.E., falling into St. Sebastian s Bay; lat. 34 45 S. ; Ion. 20 5(y E. Though it has only 13 ft. water at low tide, it is the deepest river in the district, and considerable quantities of the wool grown in the neighbourhood are shipped from it. BREEDEVOORT, or BREEVOORT, a tn. Holland, prov. Gelderland, 20 m. S.E. Zutphen. It was once fortified, has a Reformed and a R. Catholic church, and a school. Besides some linen-weaving, and bleaching, there is a tanwork, and a cotton manufactory. Pop. 900. BREEDON-ON-THE-uiLL, par. Eng. Leicester; 6410 ac. Pop. 2625. BREGENZ, a tn. Austrian States, cap. of co. Vorarlberg, gov. of, and 77 m. W. by N. Innsbruck; beautifully situated on the slope of a hill, on the banks of Lake Constance. It is well built, divided into the old town, which is an ugly place, and occupies the eminence; and the lower town, which is more pleasant, and spreads along the shores of the lake. It has three churches and a school, two monasteries, an orphan asylum, and a military swimming -school. Woollen and cotton spinning are carried on, and articles in wood and straw arc manufactured. The inhabitants are very industrious, and export large quantities of frameworks, wooden fittings for houses, and even wooden chalets, ready for erection, to the Swiss cantons. They likewise do a good business in corn, fruit, wine, butter, and cattle. In the neighbourhood are saltpetre-works, blast-furnaces, and coal mines. Bregenz is supposed to be the Brigantium of Strabo and Ptolemy, whence the Locus Brigantinus [Lake of Bregenz, but now Lake Con stance] got its name. The old castle, once the stronghold of the powerful Counts of Montfort, and the ruins of which are to be seen on Mount Gebhard, behind the town, was for a long time one. of the most important fortresses in this part of Germany. Pop. 4800. BREGOGE, par. Irel. Cork; 1333 ac. Pop. 441. BREHAR, or BRYHER, one of the Scilly Islands, England, off the Land s End, co. Cornwall, at the S.W. entrance into the English Channel, about lat. 49 53 N. ; Ion. 6 20 W. It is about 1 J m. in length N. to S., with an average breadth of half a mile, and comprises an area of 330 ac. It consists of several steep hills, connected by tracts of low land, a con siderable part of which is in cultivation. A small group of houses is called the town of Brehar, in which there is a church erected a few years ago, on the site of a more ancient one. Pop. between 2000 and 3000. BREHAT, an isl. France, coast of Brittany, dep. CStes- du-Nord, 24 m. from St. Brieuc, in the English Channel; lat. 48 55 N. ; Ion. 3 5 W. It is about 3 m. long, and 2 m. broad, and is separated from the mainland by a channel 1 m. broad. It has three harbours, Clos on the S., la Corderie on the W., and la Chambre on the E. ; the last of which has 8 to 16 fathoms water, according to the state of the tide. Brehat is the only point on the French coast, between Brest and St. Malo, where frigates can enter, and in time of war is much frequented by convoys navigating the channel. On the rocky reef of Heaux-Brehat, there is a lighthouse, the light of which is visible from a distance of 14 m. The island is defended by 12 small batteries. It has no springs, the inhabitants using ram water. Pop. 1519. BREINTON, par. Eng. Hereford ; 1490 ac. Pop. 362. BREISACH (ALT), [Latin, Brisiamm~\, atn. grand duchy of Baden, circle, Upper Rhine, 12 m. W. Freiburg, 34 m. S. Strasburg, r. bank, Rhine, opposite Neu Breisach, and Fort Mortier, in France. This is an ancient town, and was form erly very strong, being regarded as the key of Germany, on the W., but its fortifications were dismantled in 1641. The only building in the town worthy of notice is the minster of St. Stephen, remarkable for a beautiful altar-screen, carved in wood. The chief employments of the inhabitants are weav ing, agriculture, and the rearing of cattle. Pop. 3200. The BAILIWICK of the same name has a pop. of 22,000. BREISACH (NEU). BRE1SGAU 481 BREMEN BREISGAU, a fertile district, one of the most beautiful hi the grand duchy of Baden, comprised in the Upper and Middle lihine circles , area, 960 geo. sq. in. It is hilly, con taining the highest peaks of the Schwarzwald, and includes the towns Breisach, Freiburg, Waldshut, &c. The Breisgau belonged, from the 15th century till 1801, to the House of Austria; by the treaty of Luneville, in that year, a portion was ceded to, and the rest subsequently acquired by, the House of Baden. Rudolph of Hapsburg, was born in the castle of Limburg, in this district. Pop. 150,000. BREITENBACH, numerous small places in Germany, the only one of which, deserving of notice, is a market town, Schwarzburg-Sondershausen, 7| m. S.S.E. Illmenau, contain ing a castle, a porcelain factory, and an alum and vitriol work. In the neighbourhood a good deal of oil-seeds and medicinal herbs are grown. Pop. 2502. BRETTENBRUNN, a tu. Saxony, circle, Zwickau, with a paper and several other mills, a vitriol and sulphur work, and an iron forge, which employs 300 persons. In the neigh bourhood are tin and iron mines, and limestone quarries. Pop. 2100. BREITENBURG, a vil. and lordship, Denmark, duchy of Holstein, dist. Itzehoe, on the Stor, 30 m. N.W. Hamburg. The castle of Breitenburg, built in 1530, was a place of great strength, and stood several sieges. It was stormed in 1627, by Wallenstein, after a bombardment of six days. Only a chapel and a tower now remain. The lordship, which belongs to the Counts of Eantzau, has an area of 48 geo. sq. m., and is traversed by the Stbr and the Bramane. Pop. 6700. BREITENFELD, a small vil. Saxony, circle of, and 5 m. N.N.W. Leipzig, famous for the battle fought in its neighbourhood, September 7, 1631, in which Tilly and Pap- penheim were signally defeated by Gustavus Adolphus. BREJO-n AREA, a tn. Brazil, prov. of, and 45 m. N.W. Parahiba, on the mountains of same name. It has a church, and two schools ; its district is fertile, and has 5000 inhabitants. BRELADE (ST.), par. Eng. Isle of Jersey. Pop. 2170. BREMBILLA, a vil. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 12 m. N. Bergamo, on river of same name, near the bridge of Sedrina. It has a church, and some mineral springs, and stone quarries, in which fine fossils are found. Pop. 2036. BREMBIO, a vil. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, find 9 m. S.E. by S. Lodi, on the Brembiolo, near the high road from Lodi to Casal Pusterlengo. The vicinity is very fertile, and well irrigated, and the herbage rich. Pop. 2746. BREMBO, a river, Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, which rises in a series of small lakes on the mountain-ridge separat- ting prov. Bergamo from the Valteline, and, after a S. course of about 40 m., joins r. bank, Adda, near Vaprio, 10 m. S.S.W. Bergamo. It is nowhere navigable, but is employed for transporting rafts of timber. After passing Zogno, it becomes a considerable stream, and both supplies water to irrigate the fields, and move several manufactories. It is well supplied with fish. BREMEN. 1, One of the four free German Hanseatic cities, on the Weser, and cap. of the republic of the same name, 58 m. S.W. Hamburg ; lat. (observatory) 53 4 36" N. ; Ion. 8 49 E. (R.) The city is divided by the river into two unequal portions the larger, called the old town [Altstadt], on the right ; the less, the new town (Neustadt), on the left bank. There is also a populous suburb on the E. side of the town, well built, and containing many fine gardens. The streets of the old town are narrow and crooked, and lined with antique houses, in the style of the Middle Ages ; while those of the new town are regular and spacious, with hand some houses of modern construction. Between the two towns is an island called the Werder, on the lower part of which are some houses included within the limits of the town. The whole is kept remarkably clean. The communication be tween the two parts of the town is maintained by a bridge. The old town was formerly surrounded by ramparts; but they have been levelled, planted with trees, and converted into beautiful promenades. Both sides of the river are lined with quays, from which a fine view of the city may be had. Its principal public buildings are the cathedral, an ancient structure in the Gothic style, built in 1160, 296 ft. in length, 1 24 in breadth, and 105 in height ; the church of St. Ansgarius, with a handsome steeple, 325 ft. high ; and the old townhall, also VOT,. I. a Gothic structure, formerly an archiepiscopal palace. Below this hall is the RathsweinMler, the council s wine-vaults, which contain wines, chiefly hock, 100 and 200 years old, kept in vats called the Twelve Apostles, and said from age to have become nearly as thick as oil. Other public buildings are the 1. Citthe.li al. 2. St. P, tt-r s Church. 3 Our Lmly s Church. 4. St. Ansirarius Church. 6. St. John s Church. fi. St.Stephen aCh exchange, the schutting, the waterworks, the arsenal, weighing- house, and granaries ; the museum, which contains a large library, with collections in natural history, mechanics, and the arts ; Dr. Gibers observatory, from which he discovered the two planets Pallas and Vesta, in 1802 and 1807; and several other buildings of less note. Bremen has a number of schools and other educational establishments, including a school of design, and another of commerce and navigation Its charitable institutions are also numerous, and include two orphan asylums. The principal manufactures are of woollens, cottons, leather, hats, tobacco, refined sugar, rape-oil, whale bone, flour, soap, starch, vinegar, &c., with above 100 brew eries and distilleries, several soap boiling works, and sail- makers. There is also a considerable trade in building and fitting out vessels. Vessels drawing more than 7 ft. water cannot ascend so high as the city; those drawing 12 to 14 ft. stop at Vegesack, and larger vessels at Bremerhafen, where an excellent new harbour has been formed. The principal | imports are tobacco, coffee, sugar, whale-oil, cotton, and cot ton yarn ; cheese, butter, wine, tea, &c. The exports consist of linen and other manufactured goods, including tobacco; also oak-bark, rags, oilcake, bacon, &c. Having become one of the chief outlets for the goods of the Zollverein, and the main port of embarkation for German emigrants, its trade in recent years has greatly increased. The following table exhibits the gross exports and imports in the years 1847-1853: Export 1851. 1852... 6,733,636... 6,236,356 1853... 8,034,371... 7,460,415 1848... 4,529,306... 1849... 5,130,067... 1830... 5984,453... 5,300,582 The largest amount of the imports is derived from the Zoll verein, amounting, in 1853, to 3,184,114; and the greatest i exports are to the U. States, amounting, in 1853, to 2, 779,663. i In 1847 there embarked at Bremen 33,689 emigrants, in 235 1 vessels; and in 1853 the numbers were 58,111 emigrants, in 288 vessels. The total of vessels entered at Bremen in BREMEKHAFEN 482 BRESCIA 1853 was 2729, tonn. 343,046; and cleared 2696 vessels, tonu. 373,529. A railway connects Bremen with E., N., and Central Germany on the one hand, and with W. Germany, Belgium, and France, on the other. Bremen was founded, or, nt any rate, first rose into note, in the year 787 or 788, when it was made the seat of a bishopric by Charlemagne ; subsequently elevated to the dignity of an archbishopric, which, at the treaty of Westphalia, in 1648, was secularized in favour of Sweden. After various political changes, the city was taken by the French, in 1806; and from 1810 to 1813, it was the capital of the department of the Mouths of the Weser. In 181-5 it was restored to its old franchises, by the Congress of Vienna. Bremen holds the third rank amongst the free cities of the Germanic Confederation, and witli them holds the 17th rank in the Diet. Pop. (1842), 49,700. 2, REPUBLIC, a territory stretching along both sides of the Weser, and is bounded, N., E., and S. by Hanover, and W. and S. by Oldenburg ; area, 100 sq. m. The inhabitants are nearly all of the Protestant faith. The executive govern ment of the republic of Bremen (city and territory) is vested in a senate, called die Wittlwit [the Wisdom], consisting of four burgomasters, two syndics, and 24 councillors ; and in the convention of burgesses, composed of all resident citizens who pay a certain amount of taxes, without regard to their religious opinions. Pop. 72,820, including the city. 3, DUCHY, a subdivision of the landdrostei or province of Stade, Hanover, occupying the N. portion of that kingdom between the Elbe and Weser. Area, 1957^ sq. m. BREMERHAFEN, a seaport at the mouth of the Weser, formed on ground on its r. bank, purchased by Bremen from Hanover in 1827, and completed in 1830; lat. (Bremcr or Weser Light) 53 49 30" N.; Ion. 8 9 E. (R.) It is 34 m. N.N.W., and is the proper port of Bremen. It consists of an outer harbour, a slniced dock, and an inner harbour. The difference between the lowest ebb and the highest flood is 26ft.; but the average rise does not exceed 10 ft. Since the completion of the harbour, Bremerhafen has grown up into a considerable village ; but the narrow limits of the space of ground purchased, and its sterile nature, give no promise of its ever becoming an important town. It is garrisoned by Hanoverians, and defended by the Hanoverian battery, Fort Wilhelm, on the opposite side of the river. Pop. 2380. BREMERVOKDE, a tn. Hanover, dist. of, and 18 m. S.W. Stade, duchy, Bremen, on the Oste; with distilleries, lime-kilns, dyeworks, and manufactures of cloth, leather, and paper; and some trade in turf and wood. Pop. 2481. BREMGARTEN, a tn. Switzerland, can. Aargau, cap. circle of same name, 14 m. E.S.E. Aaran, r. bank, Reuss, which is here crossed by a wooden bridge. On the 1. bank of the river is a Capuchin cloister. It has a large church, a respectable townhouse, and a paper-mill. The chief employ ment is agriculture. Bullinger, the reformer, was born in this town. Pop. 1882. BREMHILL, par. Eng. Wilts; 5920 ac. Pop. 1550. BREMILHAM, or COWITCII, par. Eng. Wilts; 300 ac. Pop. 47. BRENCHLEY, par. Eng. Kent ; 8590 ac. Pop. 2472. BRENDON, par. Eng. Devon ; 9470 ac. Pop. 271. BRENKELEN, a vil. Holland, prov. of, and 8 m. N. by W. Utrecht, 1. bank, Vecht, with a Reformed and a R. Catholic church, two schools, a brewery, and a brickfield. Pop. 1500. BRENN, a populous vil., W. Africa, on the Senegal, about 50 in. above its embouchure; lat. 16 25 N.; Ion. 16 W.; built on two sides of a marsh. BRENNE (LA), [Latin, Briona Sylva\,a. country, France, in the ancient prov. of Touraine and Berri. The part of this country still retaining the name is marshy, and filled with pools, affluents of the Claise, and lies in dep. Indre, between Chateauroux and Le Blanc. The inhabitants collect leeches in the marshes. BRENNER, a mountain of the Tyrolese Alps, between the Inn, the Aicha, and the Adige; height, 6777 ft. The road from Innsbruck to Verona, by Botzen and Trent, traverses this mountain, at an elevation above the sea of 4658 ft. This is one of the lowest roads practicable for carriages over the main chain of the Alps ; and one also of the most ancient, Laving been much used by the Romans. BRENO, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 35 m. N.E. Bergamo, 1. bank, Oglio. It is well built; and has a fine square, townhouse, an ancient Gothic church, and a strong castle. In the vicinity is also a beautiful stalactitiu grotto. Pop. 2466. BRENT, five pare. Eng.: 1, Brent (East], par. Somer set ; 3180 ac. Pop. 849. 2, Brent- Eleitjh, or Ely, par. Suf folk ; 1650 ac. Pop. 289. 3, Brent (South), par. Devon; 10,180 ac. Pop. 1237. 4, Brent (South), pur. Somerset; 3210 ac. Pop. 1074. 5, Brent-Tor, par. Devon; 2810 ac. Pop. 169. BRENTA [anc. Medoaaia Major], a river, Austrian Italy. Its source is Lake Caldonazzo, in the Tyrol, 8 m. S.E. Trent, whence it flows S.E., with a winding course of 1 12 m., and falls into the Adriatic through the canal of Brenta-nova or Brentono, at Brondolo. Formerly its embouchure was at Fusina, opposite Venice. It has a rapid course, and is navi gable for 46 m. BRENTFORD, a market tn. England, co. Middlesex, 7 m. W. London ; on a slight acclivity, on the Great Western Hoad, and at the junction of the Brent with the Thames, the former dividing it into Old and New Brentford. It consists chiefly of one long, winding street, well kept, and containing some good houses. There is a great deficiency of water in Old Brentford ; but in New Brentford the supply is better. The former is lighted with gas, the latter only partially. The town is exceedingly ill drained, and the poorer localities filthy and wretched in the extreme. The townhall and market- house recently erected is a handsome structure. The churches are two one in Old Brentford, and one in New ; three Baptist chapels, two Independent, and one Wesleyan ; and the schools, two infant, a national, and a British, both for boys and girls. The charitable institutions are a dispensary, and Old Brent ford visiting society. A large distillery, a soap manufactory, which makes between 2000 and 3000 tons annually, and ex tensive sawing and planing mills, arc the chief manufactories. The retail trade is considerable, especially on market days. Petty sessions are held every Saturday, and the county court is held every month. Brentford is the county town for elec tions, a market, and union town. Pop. 7232 (New Brentford, 2174; Old Brentford, 5058). (Local Correspondent.) BRENTONICO, a tn. and com. Austria, Tyrol, 6 in. S. Roveredo ; on the N. slope of Mount Baldo, overlooked by a small castle. Vine-culture is the main occupation. Pop. 2661 . BRENTWOOD, a market tn. England, co. Essex, on a commanding eminence, 11 m. S.W. Chelmsford; consisting of one principal street, with houses in general old, and irregu larly built. It has a chapel connected with the Established church, Independent meeting-house, and free grammar-school, open to all boys within 3 m. of the town; and a large ale and porter brewery. The weekly market is on Saturday ; and there are two annual fnirs for horses and cattle. The Eastern Counties Railway has a station here. Pop. 2362. BRENZETT, par. Eng. Kent; 1740 ac. Pop. 228. BREOCK (ST.), par. Eng. Cornwall; 7860 ac. Pop. 1733. BRERETON, par. Eng. Chester; 4240 ac. Pop. 667. BRESCIA, a deleg. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan; bounded, N. by the Tyrol and Valteline, E. by Verona and Mantua, S. by Mantua and Cremone, nnd W. by Bergamo ; area, 888 geo. sq. m. Towards the N. it is hilly, but in all other directions it is a fertile plain. The chief rivers are the Oglio, and its tribu taries Mella and Chiese. The air is mild and pleasant. The chief productions are grain, flax, hemp, grapes, and olives. A good deal of silk is produced and manufactured. The principal mineral is iron, which is extensively mined, and supplies numerous works. A great deal of paper also is made. Pop. 310,000. BRESCIA [Latin, Brixia; French, Bresce], a city, Aus trian Italy, cap. of above delegation; lat. 45 36 N.; Ion. 10 13 E.; 40 m. N.W.Verona, and about the same distance N.E. Lodi, on a beautiful plain, 1. bank, Mella. It is a hand some and flourishing city, of a square form, about 4 m. in circuit, and surrounded by walls; its streets are spacious, and its public buildings numerous, particularly its churches, which are further remarkable for the number and value of the paintings with which they are enriched. A few of them only, however, have much pretension to architectural beauty ; amongst those that have, are the new cathedral, a handsome structure of white marble, and the church of San Domenico. But however plain in exterior appearance most of the Brescian BRESCOU 483 BRESLAU churches may be, they are all richly decorated within with the most beautiful frescoes, and other creations of taste and art. The other buildings most worthy of notice are the Palezzo della Logia, and the Broletto. The first was intended for the palace of the municipality, or townhall ; it is com posed of the richest marbles, and was worked upon by the first architects of the 15th and 16th centuries, successively. The Broletto, the ancient palace of the republic, combines the characters of fortress and townhall, and is surmounted by a great tower, whose deeply-cleft Italian battlements produce a singularly grand effect. The whole is in a colossal style, and marked by the peculiar characteristics of the age in which it rose supposed to be about the end of the 12th, and beginning of the 13th centuries. The city contains, also, a lyceum, two gymnasia, an athenaeum, a college, with a museum of antiquities, and a botanic garden ; a public library, with 30,000 volumes; a theological seminary, a handsome theatre, a corn exchange, an extensive hospital, two monts-de- piete, a workhouse, and several other educational and chari table establishments. There are 72 public fountains in the streets and squares, besides some hundreds of private ones. Outside the town is a cemetery, begun in 1815, designed by Vantini. Brescia is a place of considerable trade and manufacturing industry. Near it are large ironworks ; and its fire-arms are esteemed the best that are made in Italy. It has also silk, linen, and paper factories, tanyards, and oil-mills, and is an important mart for raw silk. But it derives its greatest in terest from its fine Roman remains, having been at one time the seat of a Roman colony. These first attracted attention in the 1 7th century ; although, as far as regards inscriptions, they had been objects of especial care to the citizens of Brescia for two centuries before this period ; but it was not till 1820 that any very earnest efforts were made to bring the buried remains of entire buildings to light. Since that period some remarkable discoveries have been made, embracing, be sides numerous statues and inscriptions, the beautiful marble temple of Vespasian, and a number of noble and magnificent Corinthian columns, with numerous fragments of mouldings and ornaments, some gilt, and all of great elegance. Brescia was the seat of a school of painting, of great merit, to which many eminent artists belonged, including Alessandro Bon- vicino, commonly called il Moretto, who flourished in the 16th century, and was remarkable for the deep devotional feeling which he threw into his sacred subjects, as well as for his excellence as a portrait painter. The city is of great antiquity, having been the chief town of the Cenomani, a Gallic tribe, who were subsequently conquered by the Romans, when it became but at what period is unknown a Roman colony, and afterwards a municipium. In the year 412 it was burned by the Goths, and was soon afterwards destroyed by Attila ; but was rebuilt about the year 452. In 936, Otho I. of Saxony declared it a free city ; and it so remained for nearly three centuries, when it fell a prey to the factions of the Guelphs and Ghibellines, and ultimately put itself under the protection of Venice. In 1796 it was taken by the French, and was assigned to Austria by the general treaty signed at Vienna, on June 9, 1815. In 1849 it was involved in the commotions by which so large a portion of continental Europe was disturbed in that year ; its streets were barricaded, but the city was eventually carried, at the point of the bayonet, by the Austrians under General Haynau. Brescia is the see of a bishop, suffragan to the Archbishop of Milan. Pop. 35,551. BRESCOU, a rocky islet, France, dep. Hcrault, in the Mediterranean, 2 m. from Agde. It appears to be an ex tinct volcano, and is crowned by a fort, which has batteries hewn out of the rock, and was formerly a state prison. On the fort is a lighthouse, lat. 43 17 N.; Ion. 3 30 E. The light is visible 8 m. off. BRESKENS, or BKESJES, a vil. Holland, prov. Zeeland, 5J m. S. Middelburg, 1. bank, W. Scheld. The Reformed church is evidently the chancel of a R. Catholic church, of which the nave is supposed to have been washed away by the sea. Breskens is a very thriving place, mainly owing to the steamboat ferry thence to Flushing, and its corn trade with Rotterdam and Antwerp. Pop. 620. BRESLAU, a gov. (Regierungsbexirl) Prussia, prov Silesia; area, 3870 geo. sq. m. The surface in the S., towards the borders of Bohemia and Moravia, is mountainous, some of the summits being about 4000 ft. ; in other directions it is almost level. The chief rivers are the Oder, and its tributaries the Stober and the Weide on the right, and the Neisse, Ohlan, Lohe, and Weistritz on the left. There are no lakes of great extent. The climate varies with the surface, being cold and severe among the mountains, but mild in the plains ; and also healthy, except where swamps prevail. The valley of the Oder is generally fertile on the left bank, but on the right bank inclines too much to sand, and is extensively covered with forest. In addition to the ordinary cereals, a good deal of flax, madder, hops, and tobacco are grown. The minerals include arsenic, zinc, lead, iron, and copper, and a little graphite. Precious stones, particularly amethysts, car- nelians, agates, opals, and garnets, are frequently found. The manufactures of this government were at one time of very great importance, but have lately suffered muck by foreign competition. Pop. 1,084,522. BRESLAU, the third city of the Prussian dominions, and sixth of Germany, cap. prov. Silesia, and of gov. of same name, at the confluence of the Ohlau and Oder ; situated on a spacious plain ; bounded, N. by the Trebnitz Mountains, and S., at a greater distance, by those of Zobten. It is divided, by the Oder, into old and new towns, which, with the various suburbs, are 4 Royal Palace. connected by not fewer than 120 bridges, of which one of cast- iron, erected in 1822, is particularly handsome. The streets of the old town are narrow, those of the new broad, and the houses in general good. The public squares and buildings are handsome. The churches, numbering in all 37, possess peculiar interest from the number of mural monuments and other sculptures with which they are enriched, some of which are in the finest style of art. The most remarkable buildings are the cathedral, built in the 12th century; the Eailihaus or townhall, a quaint and curious old Gothic struc ture, supposed to have been built in the beginning of the 14th century, situated in the square called Grosse Ring; and the Government-house, an elegant edifice. In the square named after Bliicher is a colossal bronze statue of him, by Rauch, in commemoration of his victory on the Katzbach, in 1813. The university, which was transferred hither from Frankfort-on-the-Oder in 1811, occupies a building which was originally an imperial palace. Attached to the university are a museum of natural history, a library of 250,000 volumes, an observatory, a cabinet of antiquities, a picture-gallery, and a botanic garden. The number of students amount to about 700. Besides the university, there are a school of industry, of deaf and dumb, of surgery, one R. Catholic, and three Protestant, together with a vast number of other educational institutions. There are also a great many hospitals and asylums ; amongst the latter, one for the support and education of officers daughters ; and amongst the former, an hospital for faithful servants, opened in 1820. Breslau is the seat of BKESSAY 484 BREST government for the province, and has various administrative establishments. It is also the seat of a royal mint and bank, with a royal office for mining productions. There is a theatre and opera-house in the city, and a number of musical asso ciations, both public and private. The fortifications with which Breslau was formerly surrounded have been levelled, and tastefully planted and laid out in gardens and pleasure- grounds, the whole forming a delightful promenade. The manufactures of Breslau are numerous, comprising gloves, plate, jewellery, silks, woollens, cottons, linens, and stock ings. Its lithographic and common printing-presses amount to 24. It carries on, besides, an extensive trade in Silesian products and fabrics, the principal of which are corn, metals, and timber. The number of distilleries in the town amount to nearly 100. Breslau is also the first market for wool on the Continent. It is altogether a bustling and thriving city ; and from its salubrity, the cheapness of provisions and educa tion, the sociable dispositions of the people, and the beauty of its environs, is a very desirable place of residence. By railway it communicates with Vienna on the one hand, and with Berlin, Stettin, and Hamburg on the other. Pop. (1710), only 41,000; (1844), 103,282 ; (1846), 112,194. BRESSAY. 1, An isl. Scotland, one of the Shetlands, opposite Lerwick, united, parochially, with Barra and Quarff ; lat. 60 10 N. ; Ion. 1 6 W. ; about 6 m. in length, and from 2 to 3 m. in breadth. Its coast line is rocky, and deeply ex cavated in many places by the action of the sea ; the interior hilly, but presenting some cultivated land sloping towards the shore. A dismal-looking hill, covered with heath, stunted grass, and peat-moss, 724 ft. high, called the Ward or Beacon Hill, rises near its S. extremity; and another of 400 ft., called St. Andrew s or Ander Hill, on the E. side. On the S. are three bold headlands, the Ord, the Bard, and Hammer; the first is 500 ft. high, and inhabited by eagles; the other two are about 200 ft. each. There are a number of small lakes in the island, abundantly stored with excellent trout. Quarries of a coarse kind of slate have been wrought for many years. Culinary vegetables thrive well here, but trees make little progress, although it must have been otherwise at one time, as large trunks are frequently found buried in the mosses. Sea-fishing is the principal occupation of the inhabitants. To the ling-fishing, called the haaf or far-fishing, Bressay sends upwards of 13 boats, of 18 or 20 ft. keel ; and shares propor tionately in the cod and herring fishing. Kelp, also, is manu factured here to a considerable extent ; herring-nets, and a little Shetland hosiery. Several traces of Pictish buildings occur in the island, and some tumuli, in which human bones have been found. There are also two or three perpendicular or standing-stones here, one of which forms a landmark for vessels entering Bressay Sound. Pop. 904. 2, BKESSAY SOUND, between the isl. of Bressay and Mainland ; is well known as a safe harbour; from about 1 m. to 1J m. average breadth; depth, about 15 fathoms at high water ; fall of tide, about 8 ft. Two centuries ago, Bressay Sound was much frequented by foreign vessels during the fishing season. It is still resorted to by numbers of English and Dutch busses, and is a rendezvous for whale ships on their voyage to Green land and Davis Straits. The S. entrance is the one always taken by vessels of a large draught, the N. being narrow, with a rapid current, and only 18 ft. water at its deepest point, even at spring tides. At the N. entrance is a sunken rock, seen at low water, called the Unicorn, from the circum stance of a war-vessel of that name, sent in pursuit of the Earl of Bothwell, having been wrecked on it. BRESSE (LA), a dist. France, which formerly belonged to prov. Burgundy, and had Bourg for its capital. It took its name from an extensive forest, which stretched from the Rhone to Chalons, and was called Brixius Saltus. It now forms the greater part of dep. Ain. BRESSINGHAM, a par. England, co. Norfolk; 2300 ac. Pop. 647. BRESSUIRE, a tn. France, dep. Deux-Sevres, 38 m. N. by W. Niort. It was formerly strongly fortified, but was ruined by wars, especially that of La Vendee, when it was reduced to ashes, with exception of one house and the church. It is now improving, and has some manufactories of flannel and cotton. Granite quarries are worked in the neighbour hood, and the parish church is built entirely of that material. Pop. 2320. BREST, the principal naval seaport tn. France, dep. Fin- istere, situated almost at the W. extremity of the kingdom, near the mouth of the English channel, 320 m. W. by K Paris; lat. (observatory) 48 23 36" N.; Ion. 4 29 15" \V. (n.) The town stands on the N. side of a superb roadstead, r at a short distance from the mouth of the Elorn, and on both banks of the Peiifeld, which divides it into two parts. On the 1. bank is Brest Proper, and on the r. an extensive suburb called Recouvrance. Its circumference is about 3 m. The upper part of the town stands on the slope of a hill, with a declivity so abrupt, that the streets leading to the lower town are in some cases provided with flights of steps. The upper town is built with tolerable regularity, and has some fine edifices. The lower town is well and substantially built, and clean in the vicinity of the port, but some quarters are confused and dirty. Recouvrance has one or two good streets, but the greater portion are very inferior to those on the other side of the river, and very dirty. Brest is encircled by i - am- parts, which, being planted, form agreeable promenades, and afford a fine view of the port and shipping. From its natural advantages, the extent of its various establishments, and its means of defence, the port of Brest is considered one of the first naval ports in Europe. The outer road is perhaps one of the finest in the world, and although surpassed in extent by those of Constantinople and Rio de Janeiro, it is surpassed by none in the safety and excellence of its anchorage. It com municates with the ocean by a single passage called the Goulet, 1750 yards broad. In the middle of this channel rise the Mingan rocks, which contract the entrance still more, and oblige ships to pass immediately under the batteries. From this entrance to the mouth of the Elorn, the roadstead is about 6 m. in length. Its diameter varies considerably from the irregularity of the shores, but in some places it is 3 m., so that the port could contain all the navies in Europe. The Goulet is so completely defended, that no hostile ship could enter it without being knocked to pieces. There are about 400 pieces of cannon and mortars in the various batteries that command the channel, and the anchorage inside is still further protected by the guns that line the shore. Outside of the Goulet is the fort of St. Matthew and the new lighthouse. The inner port or harbour of Brest is formed at the mouth of the Penfelil. It is narrow, but has depth of water for ships of war, 40 or 50 of which might lie here in single file. The mouth of the harbour is closed by a boom. It is defended by several tiers of batteries rising from the water edge. Near the entrance to the harbour is the old castle which belonged to the Dukes of Brittany, and was partially transformed into a modern fortification by Vauban, in 1688. The horse-shoe battery is on the water level, and has every convenience for heating shot. In addition to all these defences, the town is protected by numerous batteries, mounting several hundred pieces of cannon. On the summit of the hill behind it is the powder magazine, where ships that enter the port deposit their powder. The celebrated dockyard of Brest is situated on both sides of a narrow but deep inlet of the sea. It contains the building slips, dry docks, sail-house, general repository, ropery, cannon-foundry (begun in 1841), the sailors barracks, where seamen arc lodged while in port in the same manner as BREST-LITOV 485 BRIANSK soldiers ; and the bagne or convict station, a building 300 yards long. There are also timber-yards and boat-sheds, and fine building-yards. The victualling-office contains 24 ovens and a slaughter-house, granary, &c. In the year 1803, when the French and Spanish fleets were here, it supplied 50,000 rations daily. Outside the dockyard is the naval hospital. The town has also a naval library, containing 20,000 volumes, a cabinet of national history, a botanical garden, a marine observatory, theatre, Hotel de Ville, and naval schools of medicine, surgery, pharmacy, artillery, hydrography, and seamanship. The communal college is attended by more than 300 students. Brest has little trade excepting for the supply of the naval department, and its manufactures scarcely extend beyond glazed hats and tarpaulins for the seamen. The merchant shipping is small in extent, bringing principally timber, build ing materials, wine, grain and flour, salt, iron, hemp, tar, &c. Although Brest has been alleged to occupy a Eoman site, no mention of it occurs in history till the year 1240, at which period its castle was ceded to John, first Duke of Brittany. This castle had a small town in its vicinity, and was several times besieged by the English, French, and Spaniards. Cardinal Kichelieu was the first to take advantage of the na tural capabilities of the port for a naval station, and, in 1631, commenced the fortifications which were improved and ex tended by Vauban. In 1 694, it was attacked by an English fleet under Admiral Berkley, but the expedition failed, and 900 men who landed were cut to pieces, as the tide had re ceded and left the boats dry. In 1773, the line of fortifica tions was considerably extended, and the town soon became as populous as it is at present. Pop. (1846), 35,163; besides which, the barracks can accommodate nearly 10,000 military. BREST-LITOV, a tn. Russia, gov. of, and 110 m. S. Grodno, r. bank, Bug. It stands in a marshy district, and is a place of some strength, being both walled and defended by a castle seated on a rock. Outside the town is an imperial palace with gardens. Both the Greeks and R. Catholics have churches and schools here, and there is a famous synagogue, held in high repute, and much visited by Jews from every quarter of Europe. The trade is in grain, hemp, flax, and honey. Pop. 4000. BRETAGNE [English, Brittany}, one of the 33 pro vinces into which France was divided before the revolution of 1 789. It is now distributed among the five departments of Ule-et-Vilaine, Loire Inferieure, Cotes du Nord, Morbihan, and Finistere. Its inhabitants still retain their ancient lan guage, which is closely allied to the Welsh, and is exclusively used by the peasantry in the W. part of the province. Brit tany is principally remarkable for its people, who are a century or two behind in costume, manners and customs, agriculture, &c., and for the prodigious number of Celtic remains that are scattered over its heaths. It is supposed to have been peopled by natives of Great Britain, partly during the Roman domin ion, and partly after the invasion of the Saxons. BRETEUIL, two tns. France:!, In dep. Eure, 16 m. S.W. Evreux-on-the-Iton. near an extensive forest of same name, in a district abounding in iron mines. It has a church, erected in the llth century, and the remains of a castle built by William the Conqueror. The inhabitants are principally engaged in the ironworks, foundries, pin and nail works, which are extensive. Pop. 1487. 2, In dep. Oise, 16 m. N.E. Beauvais, near the source of the Noye, with remains of ancient walls. The only remarkable building is the exten sive abbey of St. Mary, built 1628. The town produces large quantities of shoes for the hospitals and troops of Paris, and has manufactories of shawls, serges, woollen goods, paper, leather, ironmongery, and earthenware. Pop. 2474. BRETFORTON, par. Eng. Worcester; 1530 ac. P. 51 1 . BRETHERTON, par. Eng. Lancaster; 2360 ac. P. 833. BRETIGNY, a vil. France, dep. Eure-et-Loire, 5 m. S.E. Chartres, remarkable for the treaty of 1360, which bears its name, by which Edward III., influenced, it is said, by a vow made during a violent thunderstorm, renounced his claim to the crown of France, and John II. of France, who had been made prisoner at Poitiers, obtained his liberty, after four years captivity, on agreeing to pay a ransom of three millions of crowns of gold, and delivering the first persons of his kingdom as hostages among others two of his sons, and his brother the Duke of Orleans. BRETON BAY, W. Australia, co. Twiss, about 18 m. N. Perth, the cap. of the colony. The river Garban discharged itself into the bay. BRETON (CAPE). See CAPE BRETON. BRETTEN, or BRETHEIM, a tn. Baden, circle, Middle Rhine, on the Salzbach, 12 m. E. Carlsruhe, remarkable chiefly as the birthplace of Melancthon, the great theologian of the Reformation. An inscription, stating the fact, has been placed on the house in which he was born. Pop. 3059. BRETTENHAM, two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Norfolk; 2170 ac. Pop. 62. 2, par. Suffolk ; 1550 ac. Pop. 367. BREVEN, or BREVENT, a mountain of the Pennine Alps, Savoy. It forms the N. W. boundary of the valley of Chamouni, viewed from which it presents a vast line of apparently inac cessible precipices. Its summit, which is 5000 ft. above the valley, and 8500 ft. above the level of the sea, is the best posi tion for obtaining a view of the whole mass of Mont Blanc. BREVIG, a seaport tn. Norway, prov. Aggershuus, bail Bradsberg, 12 m. W. Laurvig, with a good harbour, on the highway from Christiania to Christiansand, and on the Lange- sunds Fjord, across which there is here a ferry. It has a busy trade in deals and iron. Pop. 1308. BREWARD (ST.), par. Eng. Cornwall; 9180 ac. P. 724. BREWHAM, two pars. Eng. Somerset:!, Brewliam (North), 2310 ac. Pop. 392. 2, Brewliam (South), 3590 ac. Pop. 513. BREWOOD, par. Eng. Stafford; ll,950ac. Pop. 3641. BREZNO-BANYA. See BRIES. BREZOWA, a market tn. Hungary, co. Neutra, on a river of same name, about 19 m. N.W. Leopoldstadt. It contains two churches, a R. Catholic and a Protestant, and has some manufactures of leather and several distilleries. Pop. 6157. BRIANCON [Latin, Brigantium], a tn. France, dep. Hautes Alpes, r. bank, Durance, 35 m. N.E. Gap, near the Italian frontier ; a fortified place of the first class, formerly a kind of Alpine Gibraltar. It stands on an eminence at the foot of the Col de Genevre, at the point where two small rivers unite and form the Durance. It is 4284 ft. above the level of the sea, and is the highest town in France. The for tifications consist of a triple line of walls encircling the town, with seven forts commanding the approaches. The road to BRIANCON From Voyag. s dans 1 Ancienne Prance. Italy is commanded by several redoubts and half-moon bat teries. The principal works are on the 1. bank of the Claire"e, whose deep gorge is crossed by a bridge of a single arch. All the heights in the vicinity are converted into points of defence, and the position is considered impregnable. Brian9on is the French arsenal of the Alps, and the central point of attack and defence from which troops can be marched on the passes of Mont Cenis, St. Bernard, the Simplon, and the Col de Tende. From the town itself there is a practicable passage into Italy by Mount Genevre. There is only one tolerable street. Brian^on manufactures cotton goods, hosiery, scythes, sickles, hemp hackles, and other small articles, and has some trade in mules and sheep reared in the vicinity, chalk, crayons, tur pentine, lavender water, and manna. Pop. 1419. BRIANSK, a tn. Russia, cap. dist. of same name, gov. of, and 70 m. W.N W. Orel, r. bank, Desna. It is surrounded with an earthen rampart, contains 16 churches, a monastery, with a seminary, and two pool-houses ; and has a considerable BRIARE 48G URIDGEWATER trade in grain, hemp, hemp-oil (sent to Petersburg and Itiga), honey, arid wax ; and linen, cables, and cordage, foundry pig and ironware, bark, mats, lime, and tar, sent to Kherson, Odessa, and other parts of the Black Sea. It contains im perial building-yards ; near it are a cannon- foundry, and a manufacture of small arms. Pop. 6000. I3RIAKE, a tn. France, dep. Loiret, 43 m. S.E. Orleans, r. bank, Loire, where it is joined by the Briare Canal. This canal, begun by Sully, was completed in 1642, and is re markable as the first constructed in France. The town has some trade in wine, wood, and charcoal. Pop. 2587. BRIAVELS(ST.),par.Eng.Glo ster;4710ac. Pop. 1287. BRICETT (GREAT), par. Eng. Suffolk ; 950 ac. Pop. 214. BRICHERASCO, a vil. Sardinian States, Piedmont, prov. Pignerol, 23 m. S.W. Turin; with a church and con vent, two paper-mills, and numerous tanneries. Pop. 3000. BR1CKENDON, par. Eng. Hertford ; 1690 ac. P. 757. BRICKENUOWN, par. Irel. Tipperary; 125-1 ac. P. 388. BRICKHILL, three pars. Eng. Bucks: 1, Brickhill (Dow), 1380 ac. Pop. 566. 2, Brickhill (Great), 1800 ac. Pop. 721. 3, BricWiill (Little), 1360 ac. Pop. 563. BRICQUEBEC, a tn. France, dep. Manche, 12 m. S. Cherbourg ; situated in the middle of a forest of same name. The picturesque ruins of an old castle, with a lofty donjon tower, occupy the centre of the town. In the vicinity are some iron mines, and several cold mineral springs. A little more than 1 m. N.E. of Bricquebec is a Trappist convent, established in 1823. Pop. 1953. BRIDE, six pars. Eng. : 1, Bride (St.) Major, par. Glamorgan. Pop. 914. 2, Bride (St.) Minor, par. Glamor gan. Pop. 472. 3, Bride s (St.) Wentlloog, par. Monmouth ; 2180 ac. Pop. 247. 4, Bride s (St.) Netherwent, par. Mon mouth ; 1 190 ac. Pop. 179. 5, Bride s (St.) Super-Ely, par. Glamorgan. Pop. 129. 6, Bride s-Kirl;, par. Isle of Man. Pop. 1153. BRIDE (Sx.) BAY, an inlet, W. coast, England, St. George s Channel, co. Pembroke, S. of St. David s; about 8 in. long, and as many broad, having at its entrance Ramsay Island on the N., and Skomer Island on the S. BRIDECHURCH, par. Irel. Kildare; 2217 ac. P.335. BRIDEKlRK,par. Eng. Cumberland; 9270 ac. P. 2112. BRIDELL, par., S. Wales, Pembroke ; 3000 ac. P. 404. BRIDESTOWE, par. Eng. Devon; 5170 ac. Pop. 1128. BRIDFORD, par. Eng. Devon; 4090 ac. Pop. 560. BRIDGE, par. Eng. Kent; 1280 ac. Pop. 817. BRIDGE OF ALLAN. See ALLAN (BRIDGE OF). BRIDGE OF EARN. See EARN (BRIDGE OF). BRIDGEFORD, two pars. Eng. Notts:!, Bridgcford (East), 1910 ac. Pop. 1110. 2, Bridgeford (West), 1720 ac. Pop. 332. BRIDGEHAM, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 2330 ac. Pop. 328. BRIDGEND, a market tn., S. Wales, Glamorgan, 17 m. W. by N. Cardiff; beautifully situated in a fertile district, on the Ogmore, which divides it into two hamlets, called Old- castle and Newcastle, connected together by a neat stone bridge. It consists of four straggling, irregular streets, con taining substantial stone houses ; is well supplied with water, lighted with gas, and is increasing in size and population. It has two Established churches, six chapels, belonging to Baptists, Independents, Calvinistic Methodists, and Unitari ans; several schools, a dispensary, and savings -bank. In the town and neighbourhood are several extensive ironworks. The South Wales Railway passes close to the town, and has a neat station within a few minutes walk of it. Pop. 1471. (Local Correspondent.) BRIDGENORTH, a bor. and market tn. England, Shropshire, 19 m. S.E. Shrewsbury; on the Severn, which divides it into two portions, called the High and Low towns, connected by a handsome bridge of six arches. The high town is about 200 ft. above the bed of the river. The steep ac clivity here is covered with houses, the foundations of the one row being higher than the chimneys of the other. These are approached by a winding carriage-road, or more directly by flights of steps cut in the rock, and rendered safe by iron railings. There are six streets in the high, and two in the low town, all straight, and, with one exception, well kept. The houses are principally of brick, some of them sufficiently handsome, but the greater portion of a very mean description. The market- hall is a spacious old structure, of timber frame work, filled up with plaster. The town is well supplied with water, the higher from a reservoir, into which the water is breed by machinery from the river; and lighted with gas. I5ridgenorth has two churches, a chapel of ease, a Baptist, Independent, and Wesleyan Methodist chapels, and a hand some little church belonging to the Irvingites ; and a free rammur-school, a blue-coat and national schools, a school in connection with the Baptists, and another in connection with he Independents, besides several well-conducted private academies ; an infirmary, supported by voluntary contribu- ions; some alms-houses, and a mechanics institute and reading-room. The principal manufacture is carpeting, which s carried on to a great extent. There was formerly a large carrying trade by the Severn, but it has been nearly annihil ated by the railways. Bridgenorth sends two members to the House of Commons. Constituency (1850), 793. Pop. oftn. 5770. (Local Correspotidcnt.) BRIDGEPORT, a city and post township, U. States, Connecticut, co. Fail-field, 62 m. N.E. New York, W. side of an arm of Long Island Sound. The harbour is upwards of 1000 yards wide at high water, but the channel is reduced to 160 yards at ebb tide. The bar at its mouth has 13 ft. at gh water. There is a lighthouse on Fairwcather Island. A mile and a half above its entrance, the harbour is crossed by a bridge 1237 ft. long. The city is neatly built, and con tains six churches two Congregationalist, one Episcopal, one Baptist, one Methodist, and one R. Catholic. It has two banks, 20 vessels engaged in the coasting trade, and five in the fisheries. Its manufactures of carriages and saddles are extensive. Daily steamboats connect it with New York. It has eight academies, and 13 schools. Pop. (1840), 4570. BR1DGERULE, par. Eng. Devon and Cornwall; 4010 ac. Pop. 497. BR1DGE-SOLLERS, par. Eng. Hereford; 740 ac. P. 65. BRIDGETOWN, the cap. of isl. Barbados; lat. 13 4 12" N.; Ion. 59 37 W. It extends along the shore of Carlisle Bay, S.W. coast of the island, and is nearly 2 m. long, and about half a mile broad. On entering the port, its appear ance is very pleasing, the houses being embosomed in trees, while hills of moderate height rise behind, studded with ele gant villas. Many of the houses have balconies, painted in gay colours, which give them a lively and cheerful appear ance. The town contains a handsome square, called Tra falgar Square, in which there is a bronze statue of Lord Nelson, placed there with great ceremony in 1813. The principal buildings, none of which are in any way remarkable, are the church of St. Michael, now the cathedral of the diocese, a large but plain edifice, rebuilt in 1789 ; the church of St. Mary, the Jewish synagogue, the central school, Harrison s free school ; a handsome market-place, shaded by trees ; the barracks at the S. extremity of the city, and the military hospitals. There are six hotels in the town, and several private boarding-houses. Bridgetown has been r,t several periods much damaged by fire ; the last calamity of that kind occurred in 1845, when a large portion of the town, which still remains unbuilt, was destroyed. The population is estimated at from 35,000 to 40,000. BRIDGETOWN, par. Irel. Cork ; 3240 ac. Pop. 993. BRIDGEWATER [anc. Brugia, Brugge-Waller, and Burgli Waller], a. river-port, municipal and parl. bor. and par. England, co. Somerset, on both sides of the Parrett, between 8 and 9 m. from its embouchure in Bridgewater Bay, Bristol Chan nel, and 29 m. S.S.W. Bristol, and on the Bristol and Exeter Railway. The river divides the town into two nearly equal parts, which are connected by an elegant iron bridge of one arch, erected in 1795, on the site of an ancient stone structure. The town is of considerable size, and generally well built, particularly the more modem houses, all of which, as well as the old, are chiefly of red brick. There are several principal streets, and a number of smaller, the former spacious, well paved, and lighted with gas. In the portion of the town on the W. side of the river, water is abundant, and of excellent quality, but in that occupying the E. side it is more scanty, and less pure. There are three churches the parish church, or St. Mary s, Trinity Church, and St. John s. The first is a large, handsome, .ancient structure, with a low tower at the W. end, surmounted by a lofty spire, together 174 ft. high. The interior decorations are very fine, and include an altar- piece of great merit. Trinity Church, which stands a littlo BRIDGETOWN 487 13R1EG out of the town, is a plain building, of no architectural pre tension. St. John s is an elegant modern Gothic edifice, with a well-designed tower at the W. end. The other places of wor ship are eight in number, belonging to Wesleyan and Primi tive Methodists, Baptists, Independents, Unitarians, Society of Friends, and F. Catholics. About a quarter of a mile from the town is a recently laid off cemetery. There are two en dowed schools, within the borough the free grammar-school, founded by King James I., and a school for the sons of de cayed gentlemen and trades-people residing within the town ; also, two national and Unitarian infant schools. There is one literary and scientific institution, indifferently supported, and an infirmary, a plain building, established in 1814. The market-house, a modern building, is large and commodious, and forms a prominent object in the centre of the town. The townhall is a large, plain, modern building, containing apart ments for the local law courts, and for the meetings of the town-council. .The union-house, and hospital attached, is a large brick edifice, on the N. side of the town, capable of containing 368 paupers. Situated still further N. are the docks and warehouses, erected within the last few years ; the former consisting of an outer and inner dock. The docks, which were made legal quays, July 20, 1850, comprise an area of 3 ac., and are capable of accommodating 80 or 90 vessels of ordinary size ; the highest register entered was for 552 tons ; vessels drawing 19 ft. can enter readily. In 1845, the number of vessels that entered inwards was 2997 ; tonn. 222,880 ; outwards, 768 ; tonn. 30,000. Bricks, &c., not liable to enter at the custom-house, and not including the above as exports from this place, amount to about 20,000 tons annually. The trade of the port may be averaged at about 200,000 tons. About 10,000 tons of timber are annually imported from the Baltic and America. One hundred and three vessels entered the docks from foreign ports in 1849 ; tonn. 12,220. The principal imports are timber, corn, coal, flax, divi-divi, tallow; and exports bricks (scouring and building), tiles, timber, hay, beans, potatoes, &c. The bor ough returns two members to the House of Commons ; regis tered electors (1849), 529. The corporation consists of a mayor, six aldermen, 18 council-men, recorder, town-clerk, and coroner. Bridgewater being chiefly a trading port, has few manufactures, the principal being brick making, including a kind of scouring-brick, composed of a mixture of clay and sand from the river, and called Bath or Flanders brick. There are also two corn-mills. It was the birthplace of the cele brated Admiral Blake, who was born there in 1599, and re ceived his early education in King James s grammar-school in that town. Bridgewater obtained its ancient name, Burgh Walter, from its having belonged to Walter de Douay, one of William the Conqueror s followers, to whom it was given by that monarch. In the civil wars of the 17th century, the inhabitants embraced the royal cause, and defended the town resolutely against the Parliamentarians, but were subdued by Fairfax, who carried off a large booty, and 1000 prisoners. The town again suffered severely for supporting the preten sions of the Duke of Monmouth, who was here received with great pomp, and proclaimed King. Pop. (1841), 10,436. BKIUGTOWN, a post vil., port of entry, U. States, New Jersey, on both sides of Cohansey creek, 20 m. from its entrance into the Delaware Bay. It has, on the W. side of the creek, a court-house, jail, and public offices ; on the E. side, a Presbyterian, a Baptist, and a Methodist church, a bank, an academy, a public library, and various manufac tories. Thirty vessels, of from 50 co 80 tons, sail from the place. On the W. side of the creek are very extensive ironworks, which employ about 122 persons. Tonnage of the port (1840), 14,171 tons. BRIDLINGTON or BURLINGTON.!, A market tn. and par. England, co. York. The town is agreeably situated about 1 m. from the sea, 37 m. N.E. York, on the railway from Hull to Scarborough, and consists of one principal, and several smaller streets, narrow and irregular; houses, in general, ancient, but having a respectable appearance; lighted with gas. The parish church forms part of an ancient priory of elegant architecture, but now much defaced. There are places of worship for Independents, Baptists, Primitive and Wesleyan Methodists, the Society of Friends, and R. Cath olics, together with a free grammar-school. A considerable trade is carried on in corn. Market-day, Saturday, and two fairs annually. Area of par., 12,410 ac. Pop. 6070. 2, Bridlington Quay, a handsome modern little tn., about 1 m. S.E. Bridlington, on the sea- coast, in the recess of Bridlington Bay. It consists of one spacious street, and several smaller, is lighted with gas, and abundantly supplied with water. It contains a handsome new district church in the English style, besides places of worship for Wesleyans and Primitive Me thodists, national schools, and an infant school. There is here an excellent harbour, enclosed by two substantial stone piers, which afford a safe retreat to coasting vessels during contrary winds, while the bay, which is protected from the N.W. winds by the coast, and the N. winds by Flamborough Head, offers safe anchorage to ships in gales of wind. Brid lington Quay is much frequented during the bathing season, for which a beach of fine hard sand peculiarly adapts it. For invalids, there are hot and cold baths, and commodious rooms. At a short distance from the town, there is a chalybeate spring of reputed efficacy. Pop. 1852. BRIDPORT, a seaport, bor. , market tn., and par. England, co. Dorset, 14 m. W. by S. Dorchester, in a fertile valley, surrounded by hills, with the river Bride, whence the town is named, on the W., and the Asher on the E. These streams unite S. of the town, and form a commodious harbour, of easy access ; lat. 50 42 7" N. ; Ion. 2 44 5" W. (R.) Brid- port consists chiefly of three spacious, clean, and well-paved streets, containing many well-built modern houses, mostly of brick, with a few of Portland stone. It is well lighted with gas, but the supply of water is not abundant. In the centre of the town is the market-house, a handsome building in the Grecian style, containing the townhall, which occupies the second story. The church is a beautiful structure, and con tains a fine organ. There are, besides, seven chapels for Wesleyans, Independents, Baptists, Unitarians, R. Catholics, and a Quakers meeting-house. The educational and literary institutions are, one public, and four private schools, with several excellent boarding-schools, a mechanics institute, young men s mutual improvement society, and a young men s Christian association. The principal manufactures are hempen goods, sailcloth weaving, and shoe-thread, which are carried on to a considerable extent. The harbour is safe and com modious for vessels not exceeding 250 tons. The principal imports are coals, timber, hemp, and flax ; exports, manu factured hempen goods, and fishing-nets, chiefly for New foundland and Holland. The number of vessels registered at the port in 1847, was 21 ; tonn. 2105. The number entered for the same year was 255; tonn. 19,767 ; cleared, 147 ; tonn. 8570. In 1845, the former was 232 ; tonn. 1647 ; the latter, 139; tonn. 591 9; showing an increase of several thousand tons, in both cases, in favour of 1847. Shipbuild ing is carried on to some extent. . Market-days, Wednesday and Saturday; and three fairs annually. Bridport returns two members to the House of Commons; constituency (1850), 538. Area of par. 250 ac. Pop. 4787. (Local Correspondent.) BR1DSTOW, par. Eng. Hereford; 1870 ac. Pop. 625. BRIE, a dist. France, which formed part of Champagne and Isle-de-France, and had Meaux for its capital. Its name was derived from a large forest called Saltus Brigeruis, still in part existing. It is now included in deps. Seine- et-Marne, Aisne, and Marne. BRIE coMTE-itouERT, a tn. France, dep. Seine-et- Marne, 12 m. N.N. W. Melun, r. bank, Isere. Its former fortifications are now demolished ; and its old castle, founded by Count Robert, brother to Louis VII., is now a heap of ruins. The parish church was built in the 13th century, and has some remarkable tombs. The only manufacture is that of writing quills, but a good trade in grain and cheese is carried on. Pop. 2629. BRIEGr, a tn. Prussia, prov. Silesia, 1. bank, Oder, cap. circle of same name, 26 m. S.E. Breslau; a thriving place, with well-built houses, and broad and straight streets. It is surrounded by fortifications, which, however, are not very formidable, and some of which have been converted into pro menades. It has five gates, two Lutheran, and two R. Cath olic churches, a synagogue, several hospitals, and other charitable institutions; a gymnasium, with a good library attached ; and a lunatic asylum. Its manufactures consist of linens, woollens, woollen gloves, and stockings ; cottons, ribbons, lace, leather, tobacco, &c. Its trade has gained much by the completion of the Vienna and Breslau Railway, BRIELLE BRIQHTLING on which the town lies. It is the seat of a head office for the royal Silesian mines, of a royal salt factory, and of district j courts of justice. The Oder is crossed here by a substantial wooden bridge. Pop. (1846), 12,615. The CIRCLE, area, 174 geo. sq. in., consists almost entirely of an extensive fertile plain. It is traversed by the Oder, on the 1. bank, of which the soil is generally a strong loam, while on the r. it is rather of a sandy nature. The principal crops are wheat and barley. On the left of the Oder, German, on the right Polish, is generally spoken. Pop. 46,761, of whom nearly nine-tenths lire Protestants. BRIELLE, or THE BRIEL, a tn. and fortress, Holland, prov. S. Holland, 1. bank, Maas, and near its mouth ; 14 m. S. W. Rotterdam ; lat, 51 54 15" N. ; Ion. 4 10 E. (R.) An outer haven connects its two inner havens with the Brielle-diep at the narrowing of the Maas, by the island of Rozenburg. As Brielle commands the mouth of an important river, it is well fortified, particularly towards the sea. It has a water and three land gates, is intersected by several canals, has three market-places, a townhouse, prison, arsenal, and look-out house, for the use of pilots. The Reformed have two churches. The larger is remarkable for the height of its tower, which forms a characteristic feature of the place when seen from the sea ; and a chime of two octaves of bells. The R. Cath olics have also a church, and the Jews a synagogue. Brielle has an orphan house, two hospitals for the old of both sexes, a military hospital, a savings -bank, and several benevolent societies, a department of the public utility society, a Latin, a Dutch and French, a Dutch, and a poors school. Brielle was a flourishing town early in the 15th century, when it had a large trade with the Baltic and Scotland. The cutting of the Voorne Canal, and the transference of the English steam-packet station to Helvoet-sluis, have diverted business to other channels. But it will ever bear a conspicuous place in history, as the first place in which the standard of Dutch independence was raised, in the 16th century, and the first fortified town in Holland, in which the burghers, without the slightest aid from without, rose against and overpowered the French garrison, in 1813, in both instances verifying the words, Libertatis primitice, inscribed in front of the town- house. Pop. 4170. BRIENNE -LE-CHATEAU, a tn. and com. France, dep. Aube, 14 m. N.W. Bar-sur-Aube, at the foot of a high hill. The town consists of two streets, behind which is situated the chateau, a magnificent edifice, erected in the last century by Louis de Lomenie, last Count of Brienne. In 1776, a mili tary school was established here, which Napoleon Bonaparte entered as a pupil, April 23, 1779 ; being thug 10 years of age, and unable to speak any language but Italian. He left the school October 17, 1784, after an attendance of five and a half years. Brienne, which saw the first dawn of Napoleon s career, had almost seen its termination thirty years after ; for, as he was about to enter the town after driving Bliicher out of it, a band of Cossacks charged his staff, and one of them, who had couched his lance at the Emperor, was only arrested by a bullet from the pistol of Gourgaud, when so near Napo leon that the Cossack fell at his feet. The town had been almost destroyed in the contest, and Napoleon promised to rebuild it, and found a military school in place of the old one, which had been suppressed in 1790. His projects were never realized, but he bequeathed a million of francs to the town, and 200,000 to the inhabitants, who had suffered most severely. Pop. 1930. BRIENON, or BHIENON L ARCHEVECQUE, a tn. France, dep. Yonne, 10 m. E. Joigny. It is well built, clean, and agreeably situated on the Burgundy Canal, which separates it from a suburb called the Port. It manufactures coarse cloth, and hag worsted-mills and tanneries, and carries on a large trade in firewood, charcoal, and grain. Pop. 2661. BRIENZ, a tn. Switzerland, can. Bern, beautifully situate on the N.E. shore of the lake of same name; on a narrow ledge, at the foot of the Bernese Alps, and in the immediate vicinity of the Giesbach Falls. The shore of the lake is lined by the gardens of the town, enclosed by a wall 8 ft. high, to protect them from inundation. The church, with some old ruins, and a handsome school, stand on a height, and have a very picturesque appearance. The chief article of traffic is cheese, which bears the name of Brienz, and is celebrated. Pop. 3102. BRIENZ (LAKE OF), [German, Brienzcrsee], a lake, Switzerland, can. of, and 30 m. S.E. Bern; 8 m. long, N.E. to S.W., and on an average about 2 m. broad. It receives the Aar at its E. extremity, and at its W. empties its surplus water, by a continuation of the same river, into the Lake of Tliun. It is surrounded by lofty mountains, the chief of which, the Rothorn. commands magnificent views of the whole range of the Bernese Alps. The lake is 850 ft. above the level of the sea, and varies in depth from 80 to 300 fathoms. A small steamer now plies upon it. The principal fish is the Lotte, a fish in some respects resembling herring, which is esteemed a great delicacy. BRIERLY-H1LL, a vil. England, co. Stafford, 2J m. N.N.E. Stourbridge. It has several streets, a large chapel, a national school for 500 children, and a handsome infant school. There are numerous collieries, large ironworks, glass works, and potteries in the vicinity, and the manufacture of steam-boilers, and other heavy articles of iron, is extensively carried on. BRIES, BRISEN, or BREZNO-BANVA, a royal free tn. Hun gary, co. Sohl, on the Gran, 22 m. E.N.E. Neu Sohl. It stands on a plain, surrounded by hills and forests, and con tains a parish church, Piarist college, and grammar-school. The inhabitants live chiefly by agriculture, the rearing of cattle, and the timber trade, and make an excellent cheese, which is known by the name of the town, and extensively exported. Pop. 3500. BRIEUC (Sx.), a seaport tn. France, cap. of dep. C6tes- du-Nord ; lat. (cathedral) 48 30 54" N.; Ion. 2 45 W. (R.); on the Gouet, about 1 m. from its mouth, in the Bay of St. Brieuc. The port, properly speaking, is the hamlet of League, at the mouth of the river, with quays accessible to vessels of 300 or 400 tons. The intermediate space is partially occupied by build ings, which have rapidly increased of late years. The town is badly built, with old tortuous streets, and has several public fountains, bridges, and a cathedral erected in the 13th cen tury. On the top of a promontory, commanding the entrance to the river, are the remains of the tower of Cesson, which Henry IV. attempted to blow up after the wars of the League. It now serves as a landmark, visible 15 m. at sea. The town is a bishop s see, and has courts of first resort and of com merce, an agricultural society, communal college, diocesan seminary, school of hydrography, and a public library with 24,000 volumes. Linsey-woolseys, drabs, and moleskins, serges, paper, leather, gilt buttons, and liqueurs are manufac tured here, and a tolerable trade is carried on in agricultural produce. Vessels are equipped for the Newfoundland cod- fishing, in which the inhabitants were at one time largely engaged, but it has now fallen much off. Races are annually held on the sands below the tower of Cesson for three days, during the first fortnight of July. Pop. 9398. BRIG, or BRIEG, a tn. Switzerland, can. Valais, between 1. bank, Rhone, and its small tributary the Saltina, and at the commencement of the ascent over the Simplon, 47 m. N.E. Martigny. It is well built ; and the houses are covered with a white slate, which shines like silver. During the last Euro pean war, it carried on an extensive and gainful traffic, but, since the peace, it has lost all its importance ; has no manu factures, and scarcely any trade. The most conspicuous build ing is the Jesuits college, and church attached. There is also an Ursuline convent. Pop. 751. BRIGA, a vil. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 33 m. N.E. Nice, on the Livenza ; with a castle, and collegiate church ; and trade in cattle, wax, and honey. Pop. 3000. BRIGG. See GLANDFORD-BRIGG. BRIGHAM, par. Eng. Cumberland; 22,580 ac. P. 7397. BRIGHOUSE, a vil. and ecclesiastical dist. England, co. York, W. Riding, 3 m. E. by N. Halifax. The village, de lightfully situated in the Calder Valley, contains many hand some houses, and is kept in excellent order ; the church is an elegant structure, with an embattled tower. The manu facture of worsted and cotton goods, and of cards for wool, flax, and cotton, is carried on. The town has some tanneries and flour-mills ; and there are valuable quarries in the vicinity, from which stone is sent to different parts by the Calder and Hibble navigation. The Yorkshire and Lancaster Railway has a station at the village. Pop. (1841), 3200 ; (1851), 6091. BRIGHT, par. Irel. Down ; 5544 ac. Pop. 1886. BRIGHTLING, par. Eng. Sussex ; 3390 ac. Pop. 692. BRIGHTLINGSEA BRIGNOLES BRIGHTLINGSEA, par. Eng. Essex; 2890 ac. P. 2055. BRIGHTON [formerly Briyltthdmstone], a parl. bor., maritime tn., watering-place, and par., England, co. Sussex, at the junction of the London and Brighton with the S. coast Railway. The town is 47 m. S. London, or by railway 50 m. ; lat. (pier light) 50 49 N. ; Ion. 8 W. (K.) ; on a slope near the centre of the curved line of coast, between Beachy Head and Worthing Point, and stretching along the shore for nearly 3 m. It is divided into two nearly equal parts by an open space of ground called the Steyne or Steine, surrounded by elegant houses. The high land of the S. Downs, imme diately behind the town, protects it from the N. winds. Brighton comprises upwards of 500 streets, of all descrip tions, with numerous handsome terraces, squares, and cres cents. The principal streets have a slight curve in conformity with the shore line, and contain many shops fitted up in the most splendid style. In front of the town is a stupendous sea wall, extending nearly 2 m., and supporting a spacious drive and promenade, constructed at a cost of 100,000. The houses are mostly of brick and flint-stone, and some of those of modern erection 6 or 7 stories in height; many of them are covered with cement, painted and finished in a tasteful and ornamental style. The town is abundantly supplied with water, and well lighted with gas. The buildings of any note, exclusive of the churches, are few. The most remarkable THK ROYAL PAVILION, BRIGHTON, Garden front. is the pavilion, built by George IV., but recently purchased by the commissioners of Brighton, an edifice in the Oriental style of architecture, with numerous cupolas, spires, and minarets, on the model of the Kremlin at Moscow. It has a handsome stone front, 200 ft. in length, with a large Oriental dome, ] 30 ft. high, nearly in the centre. The whole structure, with its stables, out-buildings, and gardens, which are open to the public as pleasure-grounds, occupies 9 ac. Opposite the palace front, within a railed area, stands a bronze statue of George IV., by Chantrey. The other buildings worthy of notice are the townhall, a large massive building, of recent erection, containing, with other accommodations, a spacious ballroom ; the market-house, opposite the town- hall, a commodious edifice; the Sussex county hospital; the theatre ; the Brighton College ; and the chain pier, an object of great utility and ornament, 1134 ft. long and 13 ft. wide, erected at a cost of 30,000. Several of the hotel.?, also, are very handsome buildings. Brighton has 13 churches and chapels belonging to the Establishment, five Independ ent chapels, four Baptist, two Wesleyan and one Primitive Methodist, one Countess of Huntingdon connection, two Cal- vinist, one Scotch Presbyterian, one Unitarian, one R. Cath olic, one Society of Friends meeting-house, one Bible Chris tians, one Latter-day Saints, one Plymouth Brethren, one Huntingtonians, and one Jews synagogue. The church of St. Nicholas stands upon elevated ground, and forms an ex cellent sea mark. St. Peter s, situated at the N. end of the town, is a beautiful Gothic structure, said to be one of the best modern specimens of the kind in England. The educa- VOL. I. tional institutions comprise the Brighton College, opened in 1847, for the education of the sons of noblemen and gentle men ; the St. Mary s Hall Institution, for the education of the daughters of poor clergy ; a diocesan school, for training school- mistresses ; several national schools, British schools, ragged schools, numerous private schools, &c. The bene volent institutions are the county hospital, already named, containing about 50 rooms, some of them large enough to hold 20 beds ; a dispensary ; an infirmary, for diseases of the eye ; lying-in dispensary ; self-supporting dispensary ; orphan asy lum ; Percy alms-houses ; and Swan Downer s school for girls. Literary institutions : the royal literary and scientific insti tution, athenaeum and young men s literary union, working man s institute, &c. At a short distance E. from Brighton, on a piece of sloping ground, a cemetery, having an area of 13 ac., was laid off in 1850. Brighton has no manufactures ; the greater portion of the inhabitants being almost exclusively engaged in providing for the accommodation and comfort of the numerous visitors who resort to the town. Some idea of the extent to which this prevails may be inferred from the fact, that there are no fewer than 500 regular lodging-house keepers, besides a large amount of hotel and private accommodation ; and 346 licensed hack ney coachmen. Building is the chief source of employment to the mechanics and labourers resident in the town ; but mackerel and herring fishing are also exten sively prosecuted, there being about 400 per sons so employed. Races are held here in the beginning of August. The race-course is situated on the summit of the Downs, to the N. and N.E. of the town. Brighton was anciently a fortified town of considerable importance ; but was gradu ally annihilated by the sea, which has, from time immemorial, been encroaching on the coast of Sussex. In the reign of Elizabeth, the town stood in the tract where the chain pier stands, but no traces of it are now per ceptible ; and but for the sea wall recently erected, the modern town would, in all pro bability, have shared a similar fate. The town owes its prosperity to George IV., who made it his residence when Prince of "Wales. Brighton returns two members to the House of Commons. Registered electors (1849), 2776. Area of par. 1980 ac. The increase of its population is remarkable ; in 1801, it was only 7339; in 1821, 24,429; in 1841, it had reached 46,661 ; and is now (1851) es timated at 63,000. (Local Correspondent.) BRIGHTON (NEW), a watering-place. England, co. Ches ter, 3 m. N.W. by N. Liverpool. It forms the N.E. corner of the peninsula of Wirral, between the Mersey and the Irish Sea. It possesses excellent natural advantages for sea bath ing, having a bracing atmosphere, a smooth and firm sandy beach, and clear water. It has communication with Liver pool by steamers every hour. On the black rock, at the confluence of the Mersey with the Irish Channel, is a strong fort, mounting 15 large guns. BRIGHTWELL, three pars. England:!, par. Berks; 1680 ac. Pop. 611. 2, par. Suffolk; 510 ac. Pop. 81. 3, Brightivell- Baldwin, par. Oxford; 1660ac. Pop. 312. BRIGNALL, par. Eng. York, N. Riding; 1910 ac. P.190. BRIGNANO, a vil. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 1 1 m. S. Bergamo, surrounded by walls, and entered by two gates. It has a large and handsome church, and a palace of the Counts of Milan, and some trade in silk and lace. Pop. 2655. BRIGNOLES, a tn. France, dep. Var, 22 m. W.S.W. Draguignan, pleasantly situated in a fertile valley, surrounded by wooded hills, and watered by a small stream named the Calami. It is well built, and has several squares planted with trees, and ornamented with handsome fountains ; is the seat of courts of first resort and of commerce, and has a normal school for the department. It has long been celebrated for its salubrity, and formerly was the summer residence of the Counts of Provence. It manufactures common cloth, silk, crockery, soap, wax candles, glue, and has distilleries, several BRIGOWN 490 BRISTOL extensive tanneries, and silk and fulling mills. The neigh bourhood produces olive-oil, and large quantities of excellent prunes, called prunes de Brignolcs. Pop. 4707. BRIGOWN, par. Irel. Cork; 15,212 ac. Pop. 10,614. BRIGSLEY, par. Eng. Lincoln; 860 ac. Pop. 125. 5RI GSTOCK, par. Eng. Northampton ; 5900 ac. P. 1262. BRIGUS, a settlement, Newfoundland, Conception Bay, S. of Port de Grave. It is a wild rocky place. Pop. 2000. BKIHUEGA, a tn. Spain, New Castile, prov. of, and 19m. W. by S. Guadalajara, on a stony slope, r. bank, Tajuna, crossed here by a stone bridge of one arch. It was formerly surrounded by walls, of which, and its gates, the ruins yet remain. The town is tolerably built, though with badly-paved and crooked streets, and has four parish churches, four schools, a townhouse, hospital, prison, 14 public fountains, and the remains of an old Moorish fortress, which now serves as a cemetery. Manufactures : glass, cloth, woollen fabrics, and shoe leather. Pop. 4464. BRILL, par. Eng. Bucks; 2600 ac. Pop. 1449. BRILL (THE). See BKIEU.E. BRILLEY, par. Eng. Hereford; 4250 ac. Pop. 587. BRILON, a tn. and circle, Prussia, prov. Westphalia, gov. Arnsberg. The town, on a height above the Mo nne, 23 m. E. Arnsberg, is one of the oldest in Prussia, has two churches, one of them, the Great Parish Church, said to have been built by Charlemagne in 776; a college, an hospital, and manufactures of linen, tinware, and nails. In the neighbour hood are mines of iron, lead, and calamine. Pop. 3301. The CIRCLE, area, 280 geo. sq. m., is rugged and mountainous, at some points nearly 2500 ft. high, and yields silver, copper, iron, lead, calamine, and gypsum. There is not much land under the plough, but a great number cf cattle are reared. Pop. 33,000. BRIMFIELD, par. Eng. Hereford; 1880 ac. Pop. 591. BRIMP8FIELD, par. Eng. Gloucester; 2240 ac. P. 417. BRIMPTON, two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Berks; 1900 ac. Pop. 412. 2, par. Somerset; 860 ac. Pop. 123. BR1ND1S1 [anc. Brundusium], a seaport tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Otranto, on a small promontory, in a bay formed by the Adriatic ; lat. 40 39 N. ; Ion. 18 1 E. Brun- dusium was one of the most important cities of ancient Italy, and one of the most flourishing ports in the Adriatic. It had an excellent harbour, from which the Romans usually em barked for Greece and Asia. Cresar attempted to blockade Pompey s fleet here, and commenced the ruin of the harbour, by running mounds of earth across the entrance. In the llth century, it fell into the hands of Roger Guiscard, King of Naples, and in the 12th, its population is said to have amounted to 60,000. It is now a fortified town of the third class, but its defences are of little importance. The inhabited houses are scattered over a great extent of ground, where many ves tiges of antiquity are still visible. Brindisi is the seat of an archbishopric, and has a cathedral, several churches, convents for both sexes, a seminary, college, and two hospitals. The harbour only admits small vessels. There is good anchorage in the roadstead. The poet Virgil died at Brundusium, in the year 19 B.C. Pop. 6555 BRINDLE, par. Eng. Lancaster; 2940 ac. Pop. 1401. BRINGHURST, par. Eng. Leicester ; 3650 ac. Pop. 840. BRINGTON, two pars. England:!, par. Huntingdon; 1 1 90 ac. Pop. 1 29. 2 , Brington ( Great] , par. Northampton ; 4180 ac. Pop. 795. BRININGHAM, par. Eng. Norfolk; 1450 ac. Pop. 243. BRINKHILL, par. Eng. Lincoln; 780 ac. Pop. 168. BRINKLEY, par. Eng. Cambridge; 1500 ac. Pop. 366. BRINKLOW, par. Eng. Warwick; 1410 ac. Pop. 797. BRINK WORT II, par. Eng. Wilts; 6470 ac. Pop. 1 694. BRINNY, par. Irel. Cork; 4898 ac. Pop. 1852. BRINSOP, par. Eng. Hereford; 1470 ac. Pop. 116. BRINTON, par. Eng. Norfolk; 650 ac. Pop. 193. BRIONES, a walled tn. Spain, Old Castile, prov. of, and 22 m. W.N.W. Logrofio, on a declivity, near r. bank, Ebro. It is composed of a square, and several well-paved, clean, and neat streets, and has a parish church, Latin, and two endowed schools, townhouse, prison, hospital, and cemetery. Manu factures: linen and hempen fabrics, and brandy. Trade: export of manufactures, wine, brandy, and hemp. Pop. 2736. BRIONNE, a tn. France, dep. Eure, 9 m. N.E. Bernay, on the Uille. It was formerly strongly fortified, and suffered several sieges during the English wars in France. Manu factures: cloth and cotton spinning. Pop. 1902. BRIOUDE, a tn. France, dep. Haute Loire, 28 m. N.W. Le Puy, near 1. bank, Allier, in a spacious basin, surrounded by hills. In general it is badly built, with narrow, dirty streets. The only edifices of note are the college, and the cathedral church of St. Julian, founded in the ninth century. Brioude has courts of first resort and of commerce, a com munal college, an agricultural society, and a public library. It has manufactures of linen and woollen stuffs, and a trade in grain, wine, hemp, and antimony. Lafayette was a native of this town. Pop. 4795. BRISACH (NEUF). See NEDF-BRISACH. BRISBANE, an inland co. New S. Wales; length, 86 m. S.W. to N.E.; breadth, at the broadest part, about 48 m.; area, 2344 sq. m., or 1.500,160 ac. It consists of several ranges of table land, with occasional plains and peaks, some of which rise to a considerable elevation. In this county is situated the burning hill called Mount Wingen, or the Burning Mountain ; lat. 31 55 S.; Ion. 150 56 E. The portion of it under the process of combustion is from ] 400 to 1500 ft. above the level of the sea. The stock of the county is com puted at 1332 horses, 11,125 head of horned cattle, 211 pigs, and 174,969 sheep. The chief town is Murrurundi. Pop. 1406; of which 936 are males, and 470 females. BRISBANE RIVER, New S. Wales; it rises in the mountains in the county Canning, flows S.E. to lat. 27 35 ; Ion. 153 E., when it suddenly bends round, and, after a further course of about 15 m. in a N.E. direction, falls into Moreton Bay. The whole length of the stream is about 70 m. The tide ascends 50 m. above its mouth. BRISIGHELLA, a tn. Papal States, deleg. of, and 26 m. S.W. Ravenna, on the Amone. It has a considerable trade in silk. Pop. 2500. BRISLEY, par. Eng. Norfolk; 1230 ac. Pop. 388. BRISLINGTON, par. Eng. Somerset ; 2960 ac. P. 1338 BRIS8AGO, a tn. and par. Switzerland, can. Tessin, W. bank, Lake Maggiore, 6 m. S.W. Loearno. The situa tion is remarkably pleasant. The houses, of a white colour and cheerful appearance, are built on sunny slopes. Orange and citron trees line the shore of the lake, and an alley of old cypresses leads to the church, which is adorned by a fine picture by a native artist, named Caldelli. The situation of Brissago gives it a good transit trade. Pop. 1493. BRISTOL, a city, co., and seaport, England, situated near the mouth of the Bristol Channel, at the S. extremity of co. Gloucester, and the N. of Somerset, but independent of both ; covering seven knolls or hills, and their intermediate valleys, on both sides of the Avon and Frome; lat. 51 26 8" N. ; Ion. 2 35 5" W. (R.) ; 120 m. W. London by the turnpike road, and 118J by the Great Western Railway, which here connects with the Bristol and Birmingham, and the Bristol and Exeter Railways. The entire city, with its suburban districts Clifton, Westbury, Montpelier, St. Philip and Jacob Out, and Bedminster all of which are included within the parlia mentary and municipal borough, has an area of about 2000 ac., and a circumference of about 9 m. The old town, which now forms the heart of the city, stands upon a narrow hill, about 40 ft. in height. Of the eminences on which Bristol is built, the highest are St. Michael s Hill and Kingsdown, which are 200ft. above the lower parts of the town. In the old town, some of the streets are narrow, and the houses lofty and incommodious ; but, in the more modern parts, the former are wide, and the buildings elegant and spacious. Many of the principal merchants and traders, however, reside at Clifton, Westbury, Abbots Leigh, and in the other suburbs. Bristol is tolerably well supplied with water for ordinary household purposes, and now with wholesome drinking water, from the river Chew and the Barrow Springs by the New Water Works Company. In the report of the Health of Towns Commission," the want of a sufficient supply of soft water most of that in Bristol being hard is represented as the cause, in a great measure, of that unusual amount of uncleanliness amongst the poor of the city, which, combined with deficient sewage, has ranked it as the third most unhealthy town in England. Churches, CJtapels, and Public Buildings. The established churches and chapels of Bristol are 36 in number, besides four R. Catholic chapels, one Jews synagogue, and 42 dis senting chapels of the various denominations. Bristol pos- BRISTOL 491 BRISTOL sesses rather more than the usual proportion of handsome public buildings, among which may be mentioned many of its churches, some of which present beautiful specimens of early English architecture, particularly the cathedral, a fine CHURCH (IF ST MARY RKI-CLYKKE. BRISTOL. structure, in the form of a cross, 175 ft. in length; breadth of transept, 128 ft.; height of tower, 140 ft.: and breadth of the nave and aisles, 73 ft. Of the parish churches, that of St. Mary Redcliffe, which is now (1850) being restored, is one of the most elegant ecclesiastical structures in England. It was founded in 1249, and is of various dates, and built in the form of a cross, having a nave raised above the aisles, and lit by a series of lofty windows on each side, in the manner of a cathedral. In the muniment room over the N. porch of this church, Chatterton pretended to have found the poems which he attributed to Rowley, Among the other public buildings TUB NEW GUILDHALL, BRISTOL. of note are the exchange, erected in 1760 ; the new guildhall, and branch of the Bank of England ; the Victoria Rooms, the council-house, the commercial rooms, the theatre, the city library, the blind asylum, the Bishop s College, Queen Eliza beth s hospital or the city schools, the Colston s school and alms-houses, the merchants hall, the philosophical institution, which possesses a valuable museum of natural history, and of objects of vertu. Sclwols and Charities. The principal endowed educational establishments are the city grammar-school, where upwards of 200 boys receive a good classical and commercial educa tion; the college grammar-school; Queen Elizabeth s hospital, for the education, subsistence, and apprenticing of 100 boys, to be increased to 200; Colston s hospi tal, for maintaining, educating, and ap prenticing 100 boys, which, with two other schools, and several alms-houses, was founded and endowed by the philan thropist Edward Colston, upwards of a century ago ; a school in Temple parish for 40 girls ; the merchants -hall school for teaching gratuitously the sciences of mathematics and navigation, in addition to a general education; the Red Maid s school, for maintaining and instructing about 120 girls, and afterwards provid ing them with places of service; the Bishop s College, opened in 1831, for teaching a university education, &c. In addition to these, there are a variety of unendowed schools, upon the Lancas terian, national, and other plans of edu cation, to the number of 58. On the books of these schools, by a return just (1850) made, there are 4179 boys, of whom 3275 are in daily attendance; 3080 girls, of whom 2296 are in daily attendance; and 2270 infants, of whom 1572 were in attendance. In the day and the endowed schools there are therefore 19,089 children entered, receiving educa tion. This return does not include evening and Sunday- schools, of which there are several. The hospitals, alms- houses, and other charitable institutions, are very numerous ; and the donations and bequests to the poor, both in and out of the Corporation and Charity Trustees, exceed in number and amount those of any other place in England, except London. The Bristol infirmary, now (1850) the Royal Infirmary by grant of Her present Majesty, was founded in 1736, and is the largest provincial infirmary in the kingdom ; the Bristol general hospital was founded in 1832, and is now (1851) about to be rebuilt in a more extensive form; the Bristol institution for diseases of the eye in 1810, and the eye-dis pensary in 1812. There are also two dis pensaries for the treatment of diseases gen erally. The workhouse usually contains about 550 inmates, and the out-poor gener ally amount to about 4000. Manufactures. Bristol has numerous glassworks and potteries, and has long been famous for its glass and pottery ware. There are also brass, copper, zinc, lead, iron, and tin works; chain, cable, and anchor factories ; sugar refineries ; locomotive, and other steam engine works ; distilleries, breweries, malt- houses, chemical works ; soda, soap, leather, ropes, sails, shoes, saddlery, patent shot, spel ter, floor cloth, pins, hats, tobacco and snuff, &c., are also extensively manufactured ; and a large cotton factory, employing several hundred hands, has recently been erected. On the banks of the Avon are several dock yards, in which shipbuilding, to a very con siderable extent, both in wood and iron, is carried on, Bristol having been for centuries celebrated for this art, and having built some of the finest frigates used in the late wars, and steamers used in the Royal Mail service. Commerce. The commerce of Bristol is | principally with the West Indies, the Mauritius, Havana, Vene zuela, the East Indies, China, Canada, and the U. States, car ried on in vessels varying from 500 to above 1000 tons. There is also an extensive fruit trade with the Mediterranean and the Azores, and considerable commercial intercourse with Russia, S. America, France, and the African coast. Bristol formerly possessed a large trade with Spain in wools, but this has latterly fallen into decay. With America, outwards, the trade is princi pally in emigration, iron, or coals for ballast; this trade is rapidly BRISTOL 492 BRISTOL increasing, as are also the imports from the U. States and Canada, consisting of cottou, timber, flour, provisions, tobacco, and turpentine. The tobacco trade of Bristol is considerable, and the manufacture of snuff extensive. The quantity of leaf tobacco entered in 1843, amounted to 1,326,605 Ibs. ; of manu factured tobacco and cigars, 790 Ibs. From the period of the establishment of the floating harbour up to 1848, owing to heavy dues being charged by the dock company, the trade of Bristol did not increase correspondingly with other ports, but in tliat year the enormous dues were reduced, and the trade has been improving ever since. On January 1, 1846, the number of sailing vessels registered at the port of Bristol was 272, tonn. 38,143; steam vessels, 26, tonn. 3905. V, s., Is inwards. , x, lu-Hv of eonstc-rs. Vessels. Tonn. Custom Duties. 1847.. ..372....546,753.... 0,911,314 Ibl8.... 451. ...659,292.... 1,004,789 1 819.. ..541. ...641,351.... 1,036,732 1850.. ..616.. ..643,217.... 1,042,319 Vt-sscN outwards to Foreign ports. Vesiels. Tonn. Export*. 1847. ...122.. ..28 214.. ..161,559 1048.... 142... .35,940.... 167,481 1819.. ..157.. ..34,674.... 147,044 1850.. ..177.. ..47,793.... 221.9U4 Bristol also possesses a very considerable Irish and coasting trade, which is also increasing, employing, in 1847, 546,753 tons of shipping, and in 1850, 643,217 tons. The inland commerce of Bristol is much promoted by the Great Western, the Birmingham and Bristol, and other railways, and by tlie extensive internal water communication afforded by the Severn, the Wye, the Usk, the Avon, the Parret, the Tone, and the numerous canals connected with them. Municipal Government. Bristol received from Henry II. a partial charter ; which was confirmed and extended by John and Henry III. Edward III. constituted it a city and county in itself; and Henry VIII., after the general dissolution of the religious houses, made it the seat of a bishopric. Its privileges were still more extended by the charters of Eliza beth and Charles I. ; and it received a new charter from Charles II., which was confirmed by Queen Anne. By the new Municipal Act, the city is divided into 10 wards, and is governed by a mayor, 16 aldermen, and 48 councillors, with a recorder. It holds its own sessions. Bristol has returned two members to Parliament since the 23d of Edward I. in 1283; number of electors (1850), 11,032. In October 1831, this city was the scene of a series of frightful riots, which lasted for several days ; when the custom-house, the excise office, the bishop s palace, the public jails, and more than 40 private houses, were burned down, and many lives were lost. The pretext for the riots was the attempt of Sir Charles Wetherell, who had rendered himself very unpopu- lar by his opposition to the Reform Bill, to make a public entry into the city as recorder, previous to holding the assizes. Bristol confers the title of Earl and Marquis on the noble family of Hurvoy. It has three principal market places, and a daily market, which is well supplied. Two annual fairs, for two days each, are held March 1, and Sep tember 1. They used to be frequented by dealers from all parts of the country, but of late have greatly declined. The suburban town of Clifton, the locality of the celebrated Bristol waters, is situated about 1 m. N. the city, on the summit of lofty cliffs, whence its name. It contains a num ber of elegant squares, terraces, crescents, and many hand some houses, of freestone and limestone, from quarries in the vicinity. The streets are well paved, and lighted with gas. There are four churches, and a chapel of ease, besides chapels belonging to the Independents, Wesleyan Methodists, and Baptists, and an unfinished R. Catholic place of worship, intended for a cathedral. The national school is the only endowed school in Clifton, but there is an educational institu tion, called Bishop s College, at which a university education is given, several academies for the higher classes, both male and female, and a number of private subscription schools for the children of the poorer inhabitants. Being merely a watering place, Clifton has neither trade nor manufactures. Its medicinal waters, and the beauty of its scenery, form its chief attractions, and are the sole sources of its prosperity. In the scheme of Pope Pius IX., in 1850, for establishing a Papal hierarchy in England, a R. Catholic bishop was ap pointed to Clifton. The pop. of the town is estimated at 20,000. Bristol was a fortified city in the fifth century, but was not otherwise of any consideration, but in the beginning of the 12th century, when it was called Brie or Briestow, it had be come a place of some importance. In the reign of Edward III., it contributed to the service of that monarch against France as many ships and nearly as many men as London, while Liver pool, a few years before, had furnished one small barque only. With exception of some occasional vicissitudes, it continued from this period to advance steadily, till it became one of the most flourishing and wealthy towns in the empire, being, in the 17th century, next to London, the greatest seaport in England. At this period it carried on a thriving trade with N. America and the West Indies, not the least active or pro fitable part of which was shipping kidnapped persons for the colonies a traffic in which the first magistrates of the city were extensively engaged, and from which some of them derived large fortunes. The Bristol of these days, however, was a very different place from the Bristol of the present time, as may be learnt by reference to Macaulay s History of England (vol. i. p. 535, et seq.), where, amongst other curious particu lars, it will be found that the streets were then so narrow, that if a coach or cart ven tured into them, there was no small danger of its being wedged between the houses; that goods were conveyed about the town on trucks drawn by dogs, and that the richest inhabitants exhibited their wealth, not by riding in gilded carriages, but by walking the streets with trains of servants in rich liveries, and by keeping tables loaded with good cheer. Among the more eminent natives of Bristol, were William of Worces ter, the topographer; William Grocyn, an eminent Greek professor at Oxford ; the cele brated discoverer of Newfoundland, Sebas tian Cabot, son of a resident Venetian ; the ill-fated Chatterton ; Bayley, the sculptor ; Bowdich, the African traveller; and the late poet-laureate, Dr. Southey. Bristol re turns two members to the House of Com mons. Registered electors in 1850, 12,157. Pop. in 1831, 59,074, exclusive of the sub urbs, which returned 44,812; total (1841), 1 40,158. (Local Correspondent.} BRISTOL, a flourishing tn. and port, U. States, Rhode Island, 15 m. S. by E. Pro vidence, on E. side, NarrgansettBay; lat. (Episcopal church) 41 40 N. ; Ion. 71 17 15" W. (R.) It has a townhouse, and five churches, Baptist, Christian, Congregational, Episcopal, and Methodist ; and two banks. It has a good harbour, and is extensively en gaged in the coasting trade and the fisheries. Tonnage (1840), 15,890. Pop. 3490. BRISTOL BAY 493 BRITISH EMPIRE BRISTOL BAY, N. America, Russian territory, S.W. coast, having the promontory of Aliaska on the S., and Cape Newenham on the N.; lat. 58 N.; Ion. 158 W. BRISTOL CHANNEL, England, an arm of the Irish Sea, extending between the S. shores, of Wales and the coast of Somerset and the N. coast of Devon, and terminating in the estuary of the Severn ; remarkable for its high tides, and for the rapidity with which they rise. Outside the channel, the spring tides rise from 22 to 24 and 26 ft., at the mouth of the Lower Avon to 48 ft., and at Chepstow to 60 ft. Taking Lundy Island, lat. 51 10 6" N.; Ion. 4 40 15" W. (R.), as the W. extremity of the channel, and meridian 3 W. as the E. extremity, it will be about 50 m. long, by a breadth vary ing from about 40 to 14 m. BRISTON, or BURSTON, par. Eug. Norfolk; 2450 ac. Pop. 963. BRITAIN (GREAT). See BRITISH EMPIRE (THE). BRITAIN (NEW), the name of two large and several small islands, in the S. Pacific Ocean, lying between the parallels of 4 and 6 30 S., from near the N.E. point of New Guinea, to the S.W. part of New Ireland ; and having Dampier Strait to the W., and St. George Channel to the E. The two larger islands contain mountains of great elevation ; and at the N.E. extremity of the most northerly, is a volcano in active operation. Extensive plains, of great fertility, stretch along the shores of both islands, which produce cocoa- nuts, sago, bread-fruit tree, and other kinds of palms ; also bananas, yams, ginger, sugar-cane, bamboo, &c. Pigs, turtle, and fish, are also plentiful. The islands of New Britain have a large population, a stout and well-made race, of very dark complexion, and bearing altogether a strong resemblance to the natives of Papua. These islands were believed to form part of the latter, till the discovery of Dampier Strait, in 1699 or 1700, by the celebrated navigator of that name, who established their insular character. BRITANNIA ISLAND [native name, Uea], in the S. Pacific, off N.W. extremity of New Caledonia ; lat. 21 26 S.; Ion. 168 10 E. (R.) It is about 30 m. in length, of coral formation, elevated on the S.E. part to about 250 ft., and quite level on the top ; the other parts are not quite so high, and the whole of it is thickly wooded. The coast on the S.E. part is composed of perpendicular cliffs, and no soundings within 100 yards of the breakers ; on the W. side the land is low, thickly studded with cocoa-nut trees, and liaving a white sandy beach stretching along its margin, which gives the shore a beautiful appearance. From the E. side to the centre of the island, the ground is rocky, and destitute of soil ; but on the W. side, around, and a little inland from the villages, the soil is good, and capable of producing every variety of tropical fruits and vegetables. It is well cultivated, and yields abundant crops of sweet potatoes, bananas, and sugar-cane. The climate is salubrious, and well adapted to a European constitution. The island is inhabited by two dis tinct tribes, who live in a constant state of warfare. They are generally above the middle size, and their complexion between black and copper colour. They are treacherous, and are accused of cannibalism. Pop. estimated at about 4000. BRITFORD, par. Eng. Wilts ; 3350 ac. Pop. 878. BRITISH AMERICA comprises, with exception of the Russian possessions, the whole of N. America north of par allel 49, together with some irregular portions, including New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, stretching S. to lat. 43 30 N., and the triangular portion of which the Canadas form the base, the apex extending S. to lat. 41 56 N. This vast terri tory is thus bounded, E. by the Atlantic, Davis Strait, and Baf fin s Bay, N. by the Arctic Ocean, N.W. by Russian America, W. by the Pacific, and S. by the U. States. It comprehends the Canadas (Upper and Lower), New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Prince Edward s Island, Newfoundland, N.W. Territory, and Hudson s Bay Territory. British N. America is, generally speaking, a level country. It contains few hills ; and those, for the most part, of inconsiderable height, with exception of the Rocky Mountains. The climate in the N. parts is so extremely rigorous, that the hardiest forest trees cannot withstand it. It is covered with lakes and rivers, all of which abound with fish of various kinds. Wild fowl are also numerous, especially grouse, wild geese, and ducks. The animals hunted for food are deer, of four different kinds, buffaloes, rabbits, and porcupines. The principal objects of traffic, in the more N. parts, are the skins of fur-clad animals, of which there are here a great variety. The chief tribes inhabiting these N. regions are the Chippewas, the Assini- boins, the Crees, the Slave Indians, and the Esquimaux. Of all these tribes the Crees have the best character, being active, honest, and hospitable, kind to their women, and fondly at tached to their children. The others are cruel, treacherous, and unprincipled. BRITISH CHANNEL. See ENGLISH CHANNEL. BRITISH EMPIRE (THE), in many respects the great est now existing, or that has ever existed, in the world ; and re markable not more for the magnitude to which it has attained, than for its comparatively humble origin an empire which, though apparently destined, by geographical position, to oc cupy only an archipelago in the N.W. corner of Europe, so remote as to have been at one time deemed beyond the limits of civilization, now stretches out its arms in every quarter, in a manner encircling the globe, and ruling its destinies, pre-eminent alike in wealth and population, manners and re ligion, law, literature, and arts an empire, in short, in which the great problem of human government is practically solved, and the power of the sovereign so happily reconciled with true freedom in the subject, that other States, in reforming them selves, look to the British Constitution as their most perfect model ; and the humblest, as well as the most illustrious of other lands, when driven into exile, hasten to the British shores as their safest asylum. It is obvious, both from the extent of the subject, and the narrow limits here necessarily assigned to it, that little more than a general sketch of this magnificent empire can now be attempted. Its minuter subdivisions will of course be de scribed under their different names. The British empire comprehends two great divisions : 1 , The BRITISH ISLES, or what is commonly called, the UNITED KINGDOM of GREAT BRITAIN and IRELAND ; and 2, COLONIES and DEPENDENCIES. General Description. The British Isles occupy a kind of archipelago in the N.W. of Europe, and consist of the two principal islands of Great Britain and Ireland, and s> great number of smaller islands, which sometimes singly, but more frequently in groups, line the shores of the other two, or lie in the surrounding seas at no great distance from them. On the N.W. and S.W. they lie open to the surges of the Atlantic, on the E. they are washed by the N. Sea, or German Ocean, and on the S. by the Atlantic and the English Channel. Taking the most N. point of Unst, in the Shetland Isles (lat. 60 49 N.), and the most S. point of England, Lizard Point (lat. 49 57 30" N.), as their extremities N. and S., and Lowestoffe (Ion. 1 46 E.) and Dunmore Head (Ion. 10 27 W.) as their extremities E. and W. ; straight lines drawn through these four points, will include a space extending over nearly 11 of latitude, and rather more than 12 of longitude. Hence, at the summer solstice, the longest day at the N. will exceed that at the S. extremity by 2 h. 40 m., being 18 h. 48 m. at the former, and only 16 h. 8 m. at the latter, while at all seasons there will be a difference between the E. and W. extremities of nearly 49 m. of time. The United King dom, formed by the union of what were formerly the three independent kingdoms of Scotland, England, and Ireland, is still similarly subdivided for administrative purposes. The principal subdivision of the kingdoms is into counties, of which England, with Wales, has 52, Scotland 32, and Ireland also 32. The COLONIES and DEPENDENCIES are not confined to any particular quarter of the world, but lie scattered over its surface, often at immense distances, some of them forming the very antipodes of the mother country, while others stretch over the globe in succession, from E. to W., and make that which was once flatteringly said of the Spanish monarchy to be emphatically true of the British empire that the sun never sets upon it. It is singular, however, that with all these vast dominions, Britain possesses not one colony, and has only one dependency on the continent of Europe. On the accession of her present Majesty, the kingdom of Hanover, previously in cluded in the empire, passed from it, under the operation of the Salic law ; and the only continental spot now remaining is the impregnable fortress of Gibraltar. To this may be added, in the same quarter, the strong island of Malta, possessed in absolute right, and the Ionian Isles, held under the name of a protectorate ; and off the estuary of the Elbe, the rock of Heli- BRITISH EMPIRE 494 BRITISH EMPIRE goland, which had great commercial importance during the j ascendancy of Napoleon, but lost it on his downfall. Leaving the European, and proceeding S. to the African continent, on reaching the coast of Senegambia, nearly in the parallel of 15 N., we find a series of British settlements skirting the coast, and extending, with interruptions, for 1000 m., almost to the equator. These settlements are of little commercial value ; but have, perhaps, done more than any other part of the empire to raise the British name, and place it on the proud eminence which it now occupies among the nations. There, with no hope of pecuniary return, and in the deadliest climates to which European constitutions can be exposed, Britain pur sues a labour of love both keeping up her settlements, though at fearful sacrifices, and scouring the coasts with her ships, in order to put down an inhuman traffic. Crossing the equa tor, and still proceeding S., the first British possession reached is the island of Ascension ; and after it, at a long distance, the more famous island of St. Helena, of some importance as a point of rendezvous on the voyage to India, and still long to be remembered as the ocean-isle where Napoleon, by just retribution, found a prison and a grave. The next British settlement is the important one of Cape Colony, occupying the peninsular extremity of S. Africa, and possessing, with great intrinsic, still greater adventitious value, from its admir able position in regard both to the mother country and her possessions in the E. On the S. and W. it is washed by the ocean, while in the N. its natural limits are determined by bleak elevated tracts, called karoos, so sterile in soil, and so seldom visited by rain, that vegetation is almost extinct ; but a large space of better promise stretches far eastward, and, being already under British protection, must, at no distant period, merge into the colony. Indeed, the work of in corporation has already begun, and promises to make rapid progress by means of the recent settlement of Natal, which, for the present, may be regarded as the limit of British pos session in this quarter. To Africa, however, properly belong the groups o-f the Amirantes and Seychelles, forming a small archipelago on the N.E. of Madagascar, and also, though far to the E. of the African coast, the valuable dependency of the Mauritius ; while the importance recently given to the navi gation of the Red Sea, now one of the great highways to the E., has already led to negotiations for the acquisition of So- cotra, and the actual purchase of the islands of Mushakh, in the Gulf of Aden. The passage across this gulf brings us from Africa to Asia, and places us in the town of Aden ; which, since it became a British dependency, has made such rapid progress as to justify the belief that it is the nucleus from which other important settlements are destined to radiate. From this point E., the Asiatic coast is skirted by the Arabian desert, where, notwithstanding of the perfumed gales, poeti cally said to be wafted from its shores, neither the enterprise nor cupidity of Europeans has yet found anything to tempt the formation of a settlement ; but, once across the A rabian Sea, and the scene alters. There an immense peninsular tract is reached, commencing in the S. in a mere point, but gradually swelling out on both sides as it ascends towards the N., till length and breadth have become almost equal, each having a stretch of nearly 2000 m., while a mountain-range of un equalled height and grandeur crowns the N. frontier, and forms the appropriate barrier of this great territory. The whole, with a few insignificant exceptions, belongs in property or in trust to Great Britain, and is unquestionably her most mag nificent foreign possession a possession in extent so vast, in resources so rich, and in people, tongues, and nations, so multitudinous, that there is no extravagance in the language which isolates it from other dependencies, and speaks of it apart as our Indian Empire. At the S.E. of Hindoostan, and so closely connected with it by the islets of Manaar and Kam- eserum, that no properly navigable passage intervenes, is the large and beautiful spice and coflfee island of Ceylon, in which British supremacy has long been established. Proceeding E. across the Bay of Bengal, we arrive at Aracan, and consider ably to the S.E. on the same coast, at the Tenasserim Pro vinces, both once belonging to Burmah, and ceded to Britain in 1826, and both now included in India E. of the Ganges. Considerably to the W. are the Andaman, and to the S. some other island groups, nominally the property, but not actually in the possession of Great Britain. Leaving these, we reach the peninsula of Malacca, and; turning into its Straits, find several British trading settlements first, Prince of Wales Island or Penang, then Malacca, of much larger extent, but as yet far inferior in trade ; and lastly, on emerging from the straits and rounding the peninsula, the most important of all, the flourishing settlement of Singapore, placed at the entrance of the Chinese Sea, and forming the great depot for its traffic. In the lower portion of this Sea, the only British settlement is that of the island of Labuan, with the accompanying rajahship of Sarawak, both now regarded with deep interest by the British public, not so much on account of the results which they have actually produced, as of those which are sanguinely anticipated from them. The number of British settlements in the Chinese Sea, bears no proportion to the magnitude of the British interests connected with it. Not another is met with on this side of the coast of China, and even then, the only possession which Britain calls her own, is the paltry island of Hong-Kong. Passing out of the Chinese Sea by the S. of the Philippine Isles, and proceeding into the vast archipelago, to which, on account of its numberless islands, the name of Polynesia is perhaps the most appropriate that could be given, we reach New Holland or Australia, the largest island of the world, and only a fifth less than the continent of Europe. This island Great Britain as yet possesses undivided, and is apparently converting into a new empire. Wherever favour able localities could be found, colonies have been placed, and appear to prosper, subject, however, to the serious drawback of being partly peopled by convicts, and their immediate de scendants. On the S.E. of Australia is the thriving colony of Van Diemen s Land, and considerably further S.E., first the Auckland Islands, granted by Government to the Enderbys, their discoverers, as a whaling station, and then Campbell Island. To the N. of these islands are the recently formed and hopeful colonies of New Zealand, consisting mainly of two islands, which, though the antipodes of Great Britain in respect of position, bear some resemblance to it in shape, and, from the thousands of respectable emigrants who have crowded to their shores, promise soon to resemble it in more important fea tures. To the N.W. of New Zealand, is the penal settlement of Norfolk Island. Beyond it, the bosom of the Pacific is dotted over with islands, of which several nominally belong to Great Britain, while to many others she possesses all the right which both priority of discovery, and of possession by her subjects, can give. It would seem, however, from recent occurrences, that this title is either incomplete, or has been voluntarily abandoned. These islands, interesting as they must always be to the true philanthropist, as the scenes where civilization, with religion for its handmaid, early gained some of its com- pletest triumphs, have little political or commercial import ance ; and their inhabitants, therefore, still lie at the mercy of any unprincipled power, which, under the alternate guidance of infidelity and bigotry, chooses to force its protection upon them. Turning, then, from Tahiti and the other islet groups of the same Sea, our course now lies S. over a long ex panse, then round Cape Horn, and N. to the Falkland Isles, which Britain early acquired, but chiefly values as a station in connection with the fisheries of the South Sea. Almost the whole coast of S. America must now be coasted N. be fore another British settlement is reached. The first which occurs is British Guiana, the N.W. extremity of which is almost lost in the embouchure of the Orinoco. In common with the other parts of the extensive tract almost encircled by this river and the Amazon, it is chiefly remarkable for the rank luxuriance of its vegetation, and the large supplies which it raises of all kinds of colonial produce. In this latter respect, it may be considered as belonging to the series of settlements which lie principally in and around the Caribbean Sea, there forming the West India Islands, the management of which presents, with many of the darkest, one of the brightest spots in British annals. Before leaving this quarter, mention should be made of Honduras, a settle ment from which Britain has long continued to derive some of her finest ornamental timber. Proceeding N., past the Bermudas, now a penal station, we reach the last great divi sion of our settlements a division included under the general name of British America, and originally almost of boundless extent, as may be estimated from the fact, that, though its S. portion already constitutes a vast union of independent democracies, it still stretches from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, and from the parallel of 42 to the North Pole. Tho BRITISH EMPIRE 495 BRITISH EMPIRE area and population of the different countries of which the British Empire is composed, is exhibited in the following Table: AREA and POPULATION of the BRITISH EMPIRE. sq. m. Population. Area In q. m. Population. EUROPE. Br- for 4 1,403,552 170,535,705 British Isles. 120,971 27,019,558 AMKRICA. Heligoland.. 5 2,300 Canada E. ... 191,815 693,649 Gibraltnr a 15,000 Canada W.... 147,000 506,055 Malta and ) Gozo f Ionian Isls... 120 1,092 119,247 219,797 New Bruns.. Nova Sco. ) C. Breton ) 27,700 17,500 130,000 199,870 P. Ed. Isl.... 2,134 34,666 AFRICA. Gambia 19 4,857 Newfound... 85,913 81,517 Sierra Leone 800 44,935 Hud. Bay ) 3,700,000 1 ,099,700 Gold Coast ) possessions ) Fernando Po Ascension.... St. Helena . N^\ c ! on . y GOOO 400 35 48 110,256 18,000 275,000 4oo 4977 1CC.408 Territory f West India) Islands \ Bermudas.... Honduras.... Guiana Falk. Islands 13,753 19 62,750 95,000 13,000 848 490 10,240 . 5,130 103,100 Mauritius... 708 151,089 Seychelles.. 75 159,243 N. S Wales.. 53,100 162,351 ASIA. S. Australia.. 300,000 31,153 Aden 8 50,000 W. Australia 45,000 4,6;2 India, Brit... India Depen Tunas, provs. Ceylon ncs.ooo 1-2,000 32,500 24,664 93,500,000 47,000,000 118,000 1,507,326 Victoria or ) Port Philip f Australia, ) not settled ) 93,000 2,500,000 40,000 Penang Malacca 160 900 40,323 45,953 Van Die- ) men s Land f 24,000 70,164 Singapore... 2/0 57,421 New Zealand 95,000 122,000 Labuan 25 Norf. Island. Hong Kong.. "23,872 Auck. Island " 156 Carry for* 1,403.552 170,535,7< 5 Total, 8,888,392 174,678,412 The rapid sketch now given must suffice for the British colonies and dependencies, but the geography of the United Kingdom requires a fuller description, and to it, therefore, we now return. UNITED KINGDOM. Geography. As already observed, it occupies a kind of archipelago in the N.W. of Europe, and consists of numerous groups of islands, the principal of which are Great Britain and Ireland, separated from each other by the Irish Sea, which, near the centre, attains its greatest width of about 130 m. ; but between Holyhead in Wales, and Howth Head in Ireland, in the tract taken by the English packets, is not wider than 60 m. ; and between the Mull of Cantyre in Scotland, and Fair Head in Ireland, narrows to about 12m. Great Britain, the larger, and by far the more important of the two islands, is situated between lat. 49 57 42" and 58 40 24" N. It is the largest island in Europe, and the seventh largest in the world ; the only islands ranking before it, in this respect, being Australia, Borneo, Papua, Sumatra, Niphon, and Madagascar. Its nearest approach to the continent of Europe is at its S.E. extremity, where the Strait of Dover, separating it from France, is only 21 m. broad. On both sides of the Strait the distance is rapidly increased. To the W., the English Channel widens out till the extremities of England and France are 100 m. asunder. On the E., the German Ocean, where it separates England from Belgium and Holland, is also about 100 m. across ; but, a little N., it suddenly gains thrice that width, and retains it so as to place the E. shores of Great Britain at the aver age distance of 350 m. from the W. shores of Denmark and Norway. The contour of Great Britain is so very ir regular, that it seems vain to compare it to any mathema tical figure. It has sometimes been described as a triangle, with its vertex in the N., and its base resting on the S. ; and it is, no doubt, true that the island narrows much in the former, and attains nearly its greatest breadth in the latter direction ; but the E. and W. coasts, which, to complete the figure, must represent the sides of the triangle, cannot, by any force of imagination, be made to assume the form of straight lines. The N. part of the island in particular, ex hibits on its E. coast a succession of large salient angles, while the W. coast is broken and ragged in the extreme ; the land ever and anon jutting out into the sea, and the sea making deep inroads into the land, as if the two elements had not yet ascertained their boundaries, and were contending for mastery. The greatest length of Great Britain, measured on a line bearing N. by W. from Rye to Dunnet Head, is 608 m. The breadth, necessarily modified by the numerous indenta tions of the coast, varies exceedingly. The longest line which can be drawn across the island, in a slanting direction, is, W.S.W. to E.N.E., 367 m., from Land s End to Lowes- toflfe ; but the longest line, measured from the W. to the E. coast on a parallel of latitude, between St. David s Head, in Pembrokeshire, and the Naze, in Essex, is only 280 m. The breadth is least in the N. parts of the island. Between the Clyde at Dumbarton, and the Forth at Alloa, it is only 33 m. , in the Oikel, which falls into Dornoch Firth, the tide ascends till within 18 m. of the W. coast, and the remarkable chain of lochs between the Moray Firth and Loch Liimhe leaves so little land intervening between the opposite coasts, that the com munication left unfinished by nature has been completed by art, and now forms the Caledonian Canal. The area of Great Britain, including the groups of the Orkneys, Shetlands, and Hebrides, is about 88,051 sq. m. Of these, England and Wales occupy 57,812 sq. m., and Scotland 26,014 sq. m. Ireland, as already mentioned, lies to the W. of Great Britain, being separated from it by the Irish Sea, and sur rounded on all other sides by the Atlantic Ocean. It nowhere extends so far as either the N. or S. extremities of Great Britain, but occupies an intermediate space between lat. 51 25 and 55 23 N., its N. extremity being on the same parallel with the central part of Ayrshire, and the town of Alnwick, in Northumberlandshire ; and its S. extremity being opposite to Bristol Channel, nearly in the latitude of London. E and W. it lies between Ion. 6 and 1 1 W. Its shape is much more regular than that of Great Britain, and bears a considerable re semblance to a rhomboid, two sides of which are nearly due N. and S., while the other two take a slanting direction, between W.S.W. and E.N.E. The greatest diagonal of the rhomboid is between Mizzen Head, in Cork, and Fair Head, in Antrim, about 300 m. ; the greatest length, measured on a meridian (nearly that of 8 W.), is 230 m. ; and the greatest breadth, measured on a parallel (about 54 25 N.), is 180 m. The breadth across the centre is nearly 1 65 m. Owing to the com pactness of its form, Ireland does not exhibit such variation of breadth as we have seen to exist in Great Britain ; but the breadth, from Galway Bay to Dublin, is not 110 m. ; and the shortest breadth of all, between Ballyshannon and Dundalk, is only 85 m. One remarkable fact is that, notwithstanding the general compactness of Ireland, its opposite coasts and arms of the sea are so conveniently situated in regard to each other, that there is not a spot on its surface which is not, in some direction or other, within 55 m. of the ocean. The area of Ireland is about 32,513 sq. m. AREA of the BRITISH ISLES. NAMES. Area in *q. m. Area in acres. England Wales Isle of Man Scilly Mes 50,387 7.425 280 8 32,247,680 4.752,000 179,200 5570 Channel Islunds Scotland Hebrides, viz., Bute, &c Isles of Argyle Isles of Inverness Isles of Ross andCromartv.. Orkney Isles 120 26,014 165 950 1209 580 440 76,600 1 6,648.960 105,600 608.000 773,700 871,200 281 600 Shetland Isles 880 563 200 Ireland 32,513 20,81)8,271 Total 120,971 77,421,641 Physical Features. We are so much accustomed to think and speak of the two kingdoms of England and Scotland, that we are apt to imagine, not merely a political, but also some great physical distinction between them. In fact, however, there is no such physical distinction. Their frontiers, in part at least, merge insensibly into each other, and the whole must be viewed as one island, which in regard even to phy sical features, is among the most interesting islands in the world. Though of comparatively limited extent, all varieties of scenery are exhibited in rich profusion on its surface, and all forms of geological structure lie within its bosom. The N. part of Great Britain is, for the most part, rugged, moun tainous, and barren. To the N. of a line drawn from the Frith of Clyde on the W., to Stonehaven on the E. coast, BRITISH EMPIRE 496 BRITISH EMPIRE the whole country is composed of primary rocks. Gneiss, and mica slate, with numerous outbursts of granite, form lofty mountain chains, whose lower slopes are usually covered with beds of conglomerate and old red sandstone. These moun tain chains maintain a remarkable degree of parallelism, their longer axis almost invariably taking a direction between S.W. and N.E. The principal chain is the Grampians, but though its mountains are the loftiest in the island, they are by no means of the first class. Their culminating points, Bennevis and Benmacdhuie, are, respectively, 4380 and 4305 ft. From their N. sides, snow scarcely ever disappears. These mountains, from the nature of the materials of which they are composed, frequently assume the form of peaks and frowning precipices, which, as they descend, instead of terminating at the general level of the base, are continued downwards, and become the romantic barriers of deep extensive lakes, presenting scenes in which sublimity and beauty strangely intermingle. The last range within the line already mentioned is that of the Ochils, which are much less elevated than the Grampians, and exhibit scenery of a much tamer description. They con sist chiefly of porphyry and amygdaloid, in which numerous nodules of agate and carnelian are found. Instead of tower ing up in sterile peaks, they are generally rounded, and clothed to their summits with verdant or heathy pastures. On their S. slopes, a new geological formation appears. The carbon iferous system, at first with its strata almost turned on edge, and thrown into confusion by contact with masses and veins of trap, soon becomes fully developed, and stretches, with occasional interruptions, from the E. to the W. coast, over the basins both of the Forth and Clyde. The mineral treasures of this district make it one of the most important in Great Britain. To the S., immediately beyond the limits of this coal field, the country again assumes an alpine character, and moun tains, which, for the most part, are composed of rocks of gray- wacke and coarse slate, rise with heights varying from 2000 to 3000 ft. above the level of the sea. A considerable part of this district is occupied by the Lead Hills, so called from the rich veins of lead by which its strata of graywacke are intersected. In earlier times, their alluvial covering em bedded a more precious metal, and the mere washing of the soil is said to have yielded gold to the value of 100,000. Still further to the S., several large masses of granite occvir. Coal also again appears, and forms two minor coal fields. To wards the S.E.,the most conspicuous feature is formed by the Cheviot Hills, a porphyritic range, which once formed part of the boundary between two independent kingdoms, and sends its ramifications into both. Those which pass into England may be regarded as the commencing links of a long chain of mountains and hills, which extends, with scarcely a single interruption, along the W. side of that division of the island, forming its most important water-shed, and throwing out numerous branches, particularly those which penetrate into Cumberland and Wales, and give a somewhat modified, but scarcely less attractive repetition of the magnificent scenery to which reference has been made. In the N. part of this chain, or that part to which the name of Cumbrian range is sometimes given, the most striking feature is formed by the series of romantic lakes so well known to tourists from all countries. Here granite and a species of basalt are oc casionally seen, but the prevailing rocks are slates and sand stones, belonging to the Silurian series. In other parts of this range, trap-porphyry occurs. It forms the very sum mit of Scawfell, and is seen, in still more interesting circum stances, at Sotaller, in Borrowdale, where, at its contact with a bed of red unctuous clay and ironstone, occurs the cele brated vein of graphite, which has long furnished the finest black-lead pencils in the world. Another largely developed | rock of the same range is the mountain limestone, which, if anywhere, here truly deserves the name ; inasmuch as it forms lofty mountain-masses Ingleborough, Whernside, Pen- nigant, and Cross Fell being almost entirely composed of it. This limestone is often intersected by rich veins of lead. In the lengthened chain already referred to, and to the S. and W. of the Cumbrian, is the Cambrian range, spread over the great part of Wales ; and containing, among others, the highest mountain of S. Britain Snowdon, 357 1 ft. The rocks, like those of the Cumbrian range, lie low in the geological series, and consist almost entirely of slate, and different varieties of trap and porphyry. The great exception is towards the S. limits of the range, where the silurian rocks are overlain by an extensive tract of old red sandstone, overlain in its turn by the mountain limestone, which, like a girdle, encircles the most extensive, if not the most valuable of the British coal fields. To the S. of the Cambrian is the Devonian range, stretch ing from the Bristol to the British Channel, and though lofty enough, when viewed from the level of the sea, to present a coast of remarkable boldness, too low to deserve the name of mountainous. Here granite is extensively developed, and, often possessing the property of decomposing rapidly, furnishes the white clay called kaolin, of which our finest porcelain is made. The granite is overlain by the old red sandstone, or rather by a slate which is considered to be its equivalent ; and prevails to such an extent, particularly in Devonshire, as to have given its name to a geological formation, hence termed the Devonian series or system. Here the mineral treasures are tin and copper, veins of which, generally at a high angle, and in a direction from E. to W., intersect the slate and granite, and vary in width from a few inches to several feet. Not unfrequently a vein commencing with tin is converted into a vein of copper after a considerable depth has been reached. Tin, too, occurs in the sands of rivers and valleys in the form of grains and pebbles, and is known by the name of stream-tin the rocky walls which once en closed it having evidently been decomposed and washed away. The different ranges now described as occupying the W. side of England, and stretching from its N. to its S. extremity, are composed entirely of primary rocks, or at least of rocks which, with the exception of the great Welsh coal field, and another of limited dimensions on the N. coast of Cumberland, never stand higher in the geological series than the lowest strata of the carboniferous system. On proceeding E. the case is re versed, and the oldest strata which occur are identical with those which were formerly the most recent. Here, accord ingly, secondary formations prevail, beginning with the moun tain limestone or coarse quartzose sandstone, known by the name of millstone grit, on which our coal fields are usually based, and ascending by regular gradations up to the more recent tertiary deposits. The coal fields, notwithstanding of their incalculable economical value, occupy a comparatively limited extent of surface an extent certainly not under estimated at one-twentieth of the whole. A line drawn from Lyme Regis to Bath, thence to Gloucester, Warwick, Leices ter, Nottingham, and Tadcaster, and from Tadcasterto Stock- ton-on-Tees, has on its E. side nearly two-thirds of the whole surface of England. In the whole of this space no coal is worked. If the series of strata are regular, there can be no doubt that coal exists ; but probably at a depth far beyond the reach of any known means of excavation. Immediately above it lie immense beds of red marl, sands, sandstones, and conglomerates, composing the new red sandstone series, and remarkable for the saline springs and rock-salt with which it abounds. This series, from its proximity to the coal, is usually at no great distance from the coal fields, and its lower strata must often be sunk through to great depths in order to reach them. It occupies a considerable portion of surface, but its saliferous deposits nowhere appear so rich as in the neighbourhood of Chester. Above the new red sandstone is the oolitic series, composed of numerous beds of limestones, clay schists, and sandstones, and stretching, with partial interruption, from the S. of England into York shire. It is rich in fossils, and beds of fireclay, and furnishes much of the finest building stone in the kingdom. Passing the wealden series, so called from having its chief develop ment in the Weald of Sussex, we reach the chalks, which occupy the uppermost place in the secondary formation, and which, though confined to a few patches of N., constitute a marked feature in the geology of S. Britain, where they not only compose the prevailing strata of extensive undulating tracts, but form in many places, both on the E. and S. coasts, bold and giddy cliffs, from whose white colour the ancient name of Albimi is said to be derived. The tertiary formation, which includes all the rocks above the chalk, is of compar atively limited extent, and is succeeded by immense beds of diluvial gravels, sands, and clays, in which are found remains of the larger existing quadrupeds, several of them, like the elephant and rhinoceros, belonging to genera which now exist only in much hotter climates. Above these diluvial beds lie BRITISH EMPIRE 497 BRITISH EMPIRE Diluvium and other superficial deposits, the constituents of which, mainly depending on the rocks from which they have been disintegrated, determines the natural properties of the soil, sometimes giving it an almost inexhaustible fertility, and sometimes dooming it to perpetual barrenness. Turning from Great Britain to Ireland, one of the most marked features which meets our view, is the dreary expanse of bog which stretches over its interior. The surface, as might hence be inferred, is much flatter than that of Great I5ritain. It is not, however, by any means destitute of mountains. Of these no fewer than 24 exceed 2000 ft., and four exceed 3000 ft. Cam Tual, the culminating point of the island, is 3404 ft. It belongs to a great range called the mountains of Kerry, which, in connection with the lakes of Killarney, placed in the very heart of them, furnish scenes of grandeur which few countries can surpass. The great mountain groups consist of primary and transition rocks, and are generally situated noar the coasts, which accordingly become of the boldest description. Inland behind these lofty barriers lies a vast undulating plain, oc casionally penetrated and broken up by masses of primary rocks, but occupied almost throughout its whole extent by secondary formations. Of these, by far the most largely de veloped is mountain limestone, much of it so fine-grained and compact as to furnish quarries of marble, both black and variegated, but seldom containing the rich veins of lead which usually accompany the same formation in England. The limestone is succeeded in regular gradation by the upper strata of the carboniferous system, and coal has been found to a greater or less extent in no fewer than 17 Irish counties. In general, however, its quality is inferior. Much of it is in the form of anthracite, of which seams of remarkable purity, cilmosf. entirely composed of carbon, occur in the vicinity of Kilkenny ; but the greater part of the coal raised is mere dross or culm, scarcely fit to be employed for any more im portant purpose than burning limestone. Still higher in the series above the coal, the upper strata of the secondary for mation are considerably developed in the N., where they are capped by numerous masses of volcanic origin. The most magnificent specimen of these is the range of basaltic columns which forms the celebrated Giant s Causeway. Rivers and Ports. The mountain-chains which constitute the principal water-sheds of Great Britain, are generally at no great distance from the W. coast, and hence the rivers which descend from them in that direction, have a short course and are comparatively unimportant. The two great exceptions to this rule are the Clyde and the Severn. Both of them have their mouths on the W. coast, but they owe both their volume and the length of their course to a series of longitud inal valleys, which, instead of opening directly to the coast, take an opposite or parallel direction, and thus rather skirt ing the water-shed than flowing from it, obtain much larger supplies of water than a direct course could have given them. The former of these rivers, though of vast commercial import ance, is indebted for it far less to its natural channel, than to the immense sums judiciously expended through a long series of years, in improving and almost creating its navigation. Considered merely as a river, it is comparatively insignificant, the whole length of its course to Dumbarton, where the Frith properly commences, being not more, including windings, than 73 m. The Severn is a much longer stream, and carries along with it a much mightier flood, which, commencing in the mountains of N. Wales, proceeds S. through long valleys opened into by others which add their tributary streams, till the immense accumulated volume is poured into the Bristol Channel. To counterbalance these, the only rivers of any considerable volume of which the W. coast can boast, though it also possesses the Mersey, in commercial importance the second river of the empire, the E. coast, proceeding from N. to S. receives the Spey, Don. Dee, Tay, Forth, Tweed, Tyne, Ouse, Trent, and Thames. This list contains the Tay, in volume the first river of Great Britain, and the Thames not much less in volume, and in navigable importance the greatest river of the world. It is remarkable that no river of import ance empties itself either on the N. or S. coast. Owing to the great central flat of Ireland, its rivers usually flow on in a gently winding course, and, little interrupted by natural obstructions, are admirably fitted for navigation. Those of importance are not very numerous, but one of them, the Shannon, is understood to be the largest river of the British VOL. I. Isles. Within 7 m. of its source it enters Lough Allen, which is itself navigable, and after passing out of the Lough pursues a S.W. course of 214 m., the whole of which is available for transport by smaller vessels, while from its mouth up to Limerick, a distance of 70 m., it floats vessels of 400 tons. In numerous features this noble river bears a remarkable ! resemblance to the Severn. We have seen that in Great Britain the E. coast receives the greater part of its rivers. In Ireland the rule is reversed. The Liffey, more important from having the capital on its banks, than from its own mag nitude, is the only river on that coast deserving of notice. While both Great Britain and Ireland are thus provided with numerous streams, which ramify over their various districts, and are either themselves navigable, or, when they cease to bo so, furnish the means of continued navigation by acting as the feeders of canals, the coasts are scooped out into deep and sheltered bays, in some of which whole fleets of the largest ships can float and ride in safety. It is true, however, that the number of ocean harbours, properly so called, is not great, and that the E. coast of Britain in particular, is so scantily provided, as to make the construction of a great harbour of refuge at some central point a work of primary necessity, which must sooner or later be performed. The best of these harbours are situated on the S. coast, and most providentially, at the very points where the proximity of the Continent, and the presence of a mighty rival, animated by a deadly hate, and ever on the watch to strike a blow, made it of most im portance to possess them. Within these harbours lie the wooden walls which form the true defences of the British Empire. Climate. Among the many advantages which the British Isles derive from their geographical position, one, the bene ficial effects of which cannot easily be over-rated, is the peculiar kind of climate conferred by that position a climate in which the natural rigours of a comparatively high lati tude are so modified, that at no season is either cold or heat in extreme ; and the mean temperature maintained is one of the most favourable to the full and healthy development both of animal and vegetable life. The peculiar excellencies of this climate cannot be more correctly and happily expressed than in the words which, according to Sir William Temple, were used by Charles II., when, in answer to some courtiers who were disparaging the British climate, and lauding that of Italy and France, he said, He thought that was the best climate where he could be abroad in the air with pleasure, or at least without trouble or inconvenience, the most days of the year, and the most hours of the day; and this, he thought, he could be in England more than any other country of Europe. The accuracy of this opinion is undeniable, and the ground on which it rests might easily be explained, did our limits admit of detail. The British Isles being nearly in the centre of the temperate zone, have, in common with all countries so situated, four different seasons, which merge almost insensibly into each other, but exhibit a wide range of temperature between their opposite extremes, as determined by the sun s elevation above, or his depression below, the equator. The central latitude of the United Kingdom is nearly 55 N., and the isothermal line which passes through it indicates a mean annual temperature of 50. Did this isothermal line, when continued E. across the continents, of Europe and Asia, or W. across that of America, pursue the same parallel, it would prove that the climate of all countries on that parallel was uniform, and that the British Isles, if they had nothing to complain, had also nothing to boast of. In point of fact, however, the deviation is very great, and it is wholly in their favour. The isothermal line, on crossing the German Ocean, and approaching the coast of Holland, s deflected S. ; and this deflection continues to increase in the same direction till it reaches lat. 45, on the E. side of the Sea of Azof. From this point it pursues its course with great uniformity, skirting the N. shore of the Caspian, and passing onward through Mongolia and Manchooria on the N. f China, to the Sea of Japan. The fact thus established is, that iii respect of mean temperature, the British Isles have the advantage of all countries of the same latitude to the E. of hem ; and that on the continent of Asia this advantage is so marked, as to amount to a difference of 10 of latitude, the British latitude of 55 enjoying as much annual heat as thfi Asiatic latitude of 45. But this is by no means the whole C3 BRITISH EMPIRE 493 BRITISH EMPIRE amount of the advantage. A mean temperature is an average obtained by adding temperatures of different seasons together, and then dividing them. Hence it follows, that the same mean temperature may exist when the climates are of a different and almost of an opposite description. A winter of 10, and a summer of 90, give the same mean temperature as a winter of 40, and a summer of 60; but how unlike the climates 1 The former gives a range of temperature equal to 80, the latter a range equal only to 20 ; in other words, the inhabitants living under the one climate are alternately benumbed by piercing cold, and enervated by scorching heat, whereas those living under the other are blessed with a kind of perpetual spring. Now, it is precisely in regard to range of tem perature, that the superiority of the British climate becomes most apparent. The range of the temperature between the coldest and the warmest months, is, at Paris, 30; at Lon don, only 26. In the S.W. and S.E. of France, it is, re spectively, 31 and 35 30 , and in Italy, 32 30 ; in England generally, only 24 30 . The range of Edinburgh is 25 3 ; that of St. Petersburg, no less than 55. The mean winter temperature of Dublin, only 39 8 , is 3 6 higher than that of Milan, Pavia, Padua, or the whole of Lombardy. In the N.E. of Ireland, the myrtle grows in the open air, as in Por tugal ; and in the S.E. of Cornwall, the mean temperature is only 2 4 less than that of Montpellior and Florence. The chief agent in moderating the natural climate of the British Isles, is the Atlantic Ocean. Its temperature, never below the freezing point, and raised by the influx of the Gulf Stream, is communicated to the winds and vapours which are wafted along its surface ; and hence, these winds and vapours, on reaching our coasts, combine with the colder temperature of the atmosphere and surface, in forming one of a medium and mitigated description. A continual struggle is carried on between the low current of dense and intensely cold air, which comes from the frozen regions of the N., and the downward current of warm air, which is expanded and driven N. by the vertical snns of the N. tropics. In this struggle the warm air generally proves victorious, and hence the general preva lence of S.W. winds. While they blow, frost is of rare occurrence, and never of long duration in the British Isles. When the wind blows from the N., after it has passed over immense fields of ice, or from the E., where, from the limited expanse of the German Ocean, its temperature continues nearly as low as that which it had acquired in passing over the Continent, our atmosphere is rapidly cooled down, and frosts are occasionally severe. These considerations explain the only disadvantages under which the British climate labours. South-west winds, charged with vapour, bring deluges of rain ; and N. and E. winds are accompanied with considerable, and too often sudden accessions of cold. East winds, in particu lar, prevail in spring, and not only check vegetation, but tend to produce, or, at all events, greatly aggravate pulmonary complaints. Still the advantages already enumerated far more than counterbalance the disadvantages ; and the cloud less skies of S. Europe, accompanied as they are with scorching heats which wither up the fields, and often make what should be the finest the least tolerable season of the year, poorly compensate for the magnificent foliage and rich verdure which, at the same season, give a peculiar charm to the British Isles. INDUSTRY. Great Britain, though somewhat late on enter ing on the career of improvement, and hence indebted to foreigners for the first establishment of more than one flour ishing manufacture, ultimately succeeded in outstripping her competitors, and now confessedly leads the world in all the great branches of industry. This unexampled success is owing, partly to physical, and partly to moral causes. To the former belong the vast resources of the country itself the fertility of its soil sufficiently great to reward industry, but not to foster indolence, the comparative mildness of its climate, and the untold treasures deposited beneath its sur face ; to the latter belong the spirit of activity, enterprise, and independence, engendered by free institutions, and the perfect security of property, guarded from foreign aggression by in vincible fleets, and effectually maintained at home by good laws, fairly and vigorously administered. Another great cause of industrial prosperity may be found in the obstacles which have been removed, and the facilities afforded, by bring ing all the parts of the United Kingdom into easy communica tion with each other, by means of roads, canals, and railways. On all of these, sums of almost fabulous amount have been expended, and the proportion which their united lengths bear to the whole area, far exceeds that of any other country. Be fore proceeding to give a sketch of the leading industrial interests, the following Table of the lines of communication, to which all these interests are essentially indebted, may be appropriately introduced : LENGTH IK MILES, O/ROADS, CANALS, and RAILWAYS, in th UNITED KINGDOM. England and Wales 119,531 2400 Scotland 18,348 113 Ireland Total Railv.a; 1 .. 4222 .. 7*0 5417 Agriculture. Of all branches of industry, this unquestion ably demands precedence, both because the produce which it yields is greater in aggregate value than that of any other branch, and is also, by its very nature, not merely conducive to the well-being, but essential to the very existence of society. But though agriculture is at once the most useful, and the earliest of arts, there is none in which improvement advances with so sluggish a pace. A routine once established, becomes almost immovable; and not unfrequently when everything else has yielded to the force of improvement, the husbandman continues in the ancient tract, performing all rural operations after the fashion, and with the rude implements, of centuries before. Even yet, traces may be found of the wretched farming which reserved all the manure for the fields around the homestead, and kept unmercifully scourging those at a greater distance, till, as if resenting the injury, they refused to repay the expense of seed and labour; and in some parts near the very heart of England, a long line of horses is still attached to an ordinary plough, to move along in solemn state under tl;o guidance of drivers, and do the work which is elsewhere better performed by a single pair. Such things, however, are not now the rule, but rare exceptions to it ; and in almost every district in Great Britain where the plough can move, farming of a superior description may be seen. Instead of the slovenly manner in which, not a century ago, all operations upon the soil were performed, new implements, many of them of recent and ingenious contrivance, now execute the work in the most efficient manner, and with the least waste of draught. Drain ing, not confined as formerly to swampy spots, is extended systematically to whole farms, and every field of them, not a single furrow being left without its artificial drain of tiles or stones, into which the surplus water may percolate freely, and yet so gradually, as not to carry off nourishment along with it. Science, too, has been called in to act as the hand maid of art. The organism of plants, the primary elements of which they are composed, and the food on which they live, have been assiduously and skilfully investigated, and most important results obtained, particularly in regard to manures and rotations. These results, instead of remaining a dead letter, have passed from books into the hands of practical farmers; and the farmyard, though still justly retaining its pre-eminence, has ceased to be the only source from which the soil derives its nourishment, and becomes capable of pro ducing heavy crops. Artificial manures, in great variety, have come into common use, not only increasing the produce of lands previously cultivated, but extending the limits of cultivation itself. Steeps which, from the impossibility of carrying up the requisite weight of farmyard dung, could not be brought under a regular course of cropping, are easily supplied with a few cwts. of bone-dust, or of some sub stance chemically prepared. This application first secures a crop of turnips ; sheep eat them where they grow, and thus supply the soil with additional nourishment of the richest kind ; a grain crop of wheat or barley, sown with grass seeds, follows, and the succeeding year shows a rich clothing of the finest grass, where all previously was weeds and barrenness. This grass, allowed to lie, becomes for years a feeding pas ture ; or, cut for hay, is broken up at the close of the year for another green crop. The rotation is now complete, and the process as described again begins. The effects produced by such means are truly astonishing. Under an improved sys tem of management, the produce of many farms has at lea> t been doubled, and, over the whole kingdom, has so greatly BRITISH EMPIRE 499 BRITISH EMPIRE increased, that the territory which once with difficulty sup ported ten millions, finds no difficulty in supporting twenty. Part of the result, no doubt, is to be ascribed to additional lands which, formerly possessed as commons, or lying as un improved wastes, have been brought under cultivation. But .lie far greater part is undoubtedly derived, not from new, but from the increased productiveness of old lands. The following Table gives a good general idea of the state of land in the British Empire : Fnzland... Wale. Scotland... Ireland.... Brit. Isles. Arable nnd Gardens. Meadows, p -sr Wastes im- provuble. Wastes not improvable. Summary. 10,252,800 890,570 2,493,950 5,389,040 109,030 15,379,200 2,226,430 2,771,050 6,736,24-0 974,060 8,4*1,000 530,000 5,950,000 4,900,000 166,100 3,256,400 1,105,000 8,523,930 2,116,664 569,469 82,342,400 4,752,000 19,738,930 19,441,944 1,119,159 19,135,990 28,086,980 15,000,000 15,871.463 78,074,433 One of the most striking facts apparent from the above Table is the proportion which the available land of England and Wales bears to its whole area, compared with the same pro portion in Scotland. In England and Wales, excluding wastes of all kinds, improvable and unimprovable, and including only the two first heads of the table, that proportion is seven- ninths : in Scotland it is little more than one-fourth, proving, that while the former is agriculturally one of the most favoured portions of the world, the latter is among the poorest. Ireland is in a middle state, having more than one- half of its surface available. The land under the plough in Great Britain is generally cultivated on systematic principles, according to one or other of the following rotations : First Rotation. 1. Fallow, often not manured; 2. Wheat; 3. Beans, heavily manured ; 4. Barley, with grass seeds ; 5. Hay; 6. Oats. Second Rotation. 1. Potatoes or Turnips, generally latter eaten off by sheep ; 2. Barley, with grass seeds ; 3. Hay or 1 asture ; 4. Wheat or Oats. Third Rotation. -1. Part fallow, manured; part potatoes or turnips; 2. Wheat or Barley, with grass seeds; 3. Hay once cut, then pastured; 4. Pasture; 5. Oats. The first of these rotations is particularly adapted to rich alluvial clays, which have originally formed the beds of lakes or flooded banks of rivers, and been gained either by the spontaneous retirement of the water, or the exclusion of it and subsequent elevation of the surface by the well-known pro cess of warping. The finest specimens of these soils are seen near the mouth of the Humber, and in the rich carse lands of Scotland. The second rotation constitutes the celebrated Norfolk husbandry, so called from its having first come into most extensive use in that county, particularly under the auspices of Mr. Coke. It is generally used on light sandy loams, on which heavy crops of turnips can be raised, and then eaten off by sheep. It is a severe rotation, keeping the land almost constantly under the plough, and repeating clover at such short intervals as are scarcely consistent with its growth. A great improvement of the rotation has been made, by ex tending it to five or six years, by means of two or more addi tional years of pasture between the barley and wheat. This makes it almost identical with the third rotation, than which perhaps no better can be adopted on two-thirds of the soils of this country. In addition to the crops above mentioned, several others are occasionally introduced. The most im portant of them are rye, cole or rape, beet-root, hops, and flax. At the present low price of grain, the culture of the last will probably be greatly extended. It already forms almost a staple crop in Ireland. From the above Table of the state of the employment of the land, it will be seen that the quantity under the plough in England, is about five millions of acres less than that in meadow and pasture. The produce of the lat ter is consumed to a considerable extent in feeding farm horses ; still a vast surplus remains, and exhibits, both in the mode in which it is raised, and the uses to which it is applied, a peculiar feature of English, as distinguished from Scotch husbandry. In Scotland, there is not much arable land kt_pt permanently in grass, except that which is intended for ornament, in the neighbourhood of country seats. Meadows artificially formed for irrigation, by a kind of catch-work, exist on an extensive scale, in particular localities, but meadows, in the sense in which an Englishman understands the term, are scarcely known. The meadows of England are permanent hay-fields, which are annually cut, and maintained in fertility, by regular and heavy doses of farmyard manure. Much of the land thus employed is naturally of poor quality, having only a thin covering of soil over a hungry gravel, or ferruginous tenacious clay, but, by the careful management of perhaps a century, has become covered with a close sward of the richest green, and of admirable feeding qualities. The attention paid to this kind of land is sometimes in excess, and has led, in several districts, to a comparative neglect of the labours of the plough a circumstance which accounts, in some degree, for the alleged superiority of the best Scotch, to the general average of English farming. Taking the term, in its widest sense, as including not merely the raising of crops of grain, or roots, but the rearing and fattening of stock, the improving of breeds, and dairy management, there is no country in the world that can be compared to several of the S. districts of Great Britain. It is sufficient to mention, among horses, the race-horse, the finest type, and the parent of the best existing breeds of that animal ; among cattle, the short horns of Dur ham ; and among sheep, the celebrated South Downs and Leices- ters. In dairy produce, several districts are equally pre-eminent. Attempts have sometimes been made to specify the extent of acres devoted to each particular kind of crop, and from this, on a supposed average yield per acre, to estimate the gross value of the agricultural produce of the United Kingdom. Such calculations being, for the most part, founded on data which have no official authority, can only be regarded as very distant approximations to the truth ; and, therefore, instead of entering into details, it seems sufficient here to mention the general results from Mr. M Culloch s Account of the British Empire, Ed. 1847. England and Wales... Scotland Ireland Produce of Lu..d under crop. r:o,)uce of grass land and wood. Total. 79.992,857 18744,285 28,200,834 61,614,000 9,000,000 20,000,000 141,606,857 27,744,285 48,200,834 126,937,976 90,614,000 217,551,976 The above Table, in common with all others yet published on the same subject, labours under the serious defect of assuming an erroneous average of price. In the Table, for instance, the price of wheat is taken at 50s., whereas, at present (1851), it does not exceed 40s. MINERALS. Such is the mineral wealth of the British Isles, that, with exception of quicksilver and gold, which, though found both in Scotland and Ireland, are too limited in quantity to repay the labour of searching for it, it is scarcely possible to mention a metal or mineral product, of economical value, which is networked, to a greater or less extent, beneath their surface. Among these, the first place is unquestionably due to Coal. It claims precedence, not merely because the annual output of it, in regard both to quantity and aggregate value, exceeds that of any other mineral product, but because with out it the other natural resources of the country, and the in dustry of its inhabitants, must have for ever remained, in a great measure, undeveloped. The coal fields are not confined to one particular district, but occupy a series of basins some times touching, but more frequently at a considerable dis tance from each other, and extending, in an irregular curve, from the S. slopes of the Ochil Hills to the Bristol Channel. Under the head of Physical Features, reference has already been made to the carboniferous formation both of Great Britain and Ireland, and little more can now be done than glance at the localities of particular fields, and append a few important statistics. Beginning with the N. limit, we find a field com mencing in the W. by great outbursts of trap, of which Stir ling Castle crowns the most prominent summit, skirting the foot of the Ochils, and passing onward to the German Ocean, near St. Andrews ; then turning round into the estuary of the Forth, and continuing up the 1. bank of that river; occupy ing great part of Fifeshire, a small isolated portion of Perth shire, and almost the whole of Clackmannanshire. The coal of this field is of several kinds ; but the most important seams are splint, part of it of a free, open, burning quality, greatly BRITISH EMPIRE 500 BRITISH EMPIRE in demand for steam navigation, from its not corroding the furnaces and boilers, and part of it admirably adapted for the blast furnace. Tart of this field, immediately to the W. of Dunfermline, contains a coal which, in its richness and quality of caking, bears a resemblance to that of Newcastle, and has been worked, as ancient records prove, for at least five cen turies. On the opposite side of the Forth, and almost in visible communication with the field already described, another field extends over a considerable portion of the Lothians. It furnishes the greater part of the fine fuel which is used in the metropolis of Scotland, and contains excellent seams of parrot coal. To the W., but at some distance, lie the coal basins of Lanark, Itenfrew, and Ayrshire ; the first, famous throughout the world for the immense manufacturing establishments which it mainly has called into existence, and made prosperous ; the second, remarkable chiefly as containing, near Johnstone, the thickest seam of coal in Scotland or (if the Dudley field be not an exception) in the British Isles ; and the last, as yet imper fectly developed, but evidently destined to higher importance than it has yet attained. In the N. W. of Dumfries-shire, in the neighbourhood of Sanquhar, there is a coal field, the capabili ties of which, hitherto little known, because of its inland and almost inaccessible position, will be proved, now that an im portant railway intersects it. In the S.E. of the same county is another small field near Canonbie, with a considerable local consumption, and particularly interesting as the last of the Scotch, and the connecting link with the great English coal fields. Immediately on passing the border, the first of these fields lies before us, extending over the greater part of the counties of Northumberland and Durham, and centering near Newcastle, which gives it its name. The proximity of this field to the sea, and the excellence of the coal, unrivalled for domestic use, early made it the great theatre of mining oper ations, which are there carried on to an extent, and on a scale of magnificence, which make it a world s wonder. It furnishes the larger proportion of sea-borne coal, whether to domestic or foreign ports, and, notwithstanding of the competition which it now has to sustain with inland supplies by rail way, still sends annually to London about 3,000,000 tons. Several of the pits have a depth exceeding 150 fathoms, and more than one colliery has a capital exceeding 100,000, sterling. On the opposite coast, nearly in the same latitude, i.s a small coal field, the workings of which, at Whitehaven and Workington, have been carried to a great distance beneath the sea. Besides supplying the local consumption, it exports extensively to the S. of Scotland and the N. of Ireland ; in particular to the town of Belfast, whose flourishing foundries and factories mainly depend upon it. The next coal field to the S. is, in many respects, the most important of all. It includes a large central space, not entirely occupied by coal, but interrupted, longitudinally, by a broad belt which consists nf the lower strata of the carboniferous system, and thus form ing a kind of twin fields, the one of which extends from Leeds to Nottingham, while the other has its greatest length from S.W. to N.E., and borders, at its E. and W. extremities respec tively, on Manchester and Liverpool. It thus can boast, not only of being the seat of what has been termed the world s great workshop, but of furnishing the most essential elements both of its existence and prosperity. The W. branch of this coal field is continued S. by a narrow belt, and terminates in a space of a triangular shape, occupied by the small field of Newcastle- under-Line. The only other coal field of a magni tude similar to those already mentioned, is that of S. Wales, which, though it long lay almost unknown or unheeded, has, in comparatively recent times, become the centre of some of the greatest public works of the empire. It is of an irre gularly oval shape, and passing from Monmouth on the E., continues W., without interruption, through Glamorgan to Carmarthen Bay, across which another field or continuation of that already mentioned, stretches irregularly to St. Bride s Bay. The characteristic features of this great coal field are, the large quantities of anthracite or stone coal which it con tains, and the hilly nature of the country in which it lies. The latter gives the important advantage of obtaining access, even to the deepest seams, by means of horizontal adits, which, as the miners express it, carry off the water on its own feet, and save the expense both of deep sinkings and powerful en gines From the extent of this field, and the number and thickness of its seams, which, near its centre, number 23, with an aggregate thickness of 95 ft., the field of S. Wales lias probably a better title than any other in the kingdom, to be deemed almost inexhaustible. There are several other minor fields, all of them, with exception of that of N. Wales, situated near the centre of England, and thus, from position as much as from extent, possessed of great value. Their names are, the N. Staffordshire, the Shropshire, the S. Gloucester and Somersetshire, the Warwickshire, and the S. Staffordshire. The most important on the list are, the first, N. Staffordshire, from being the principal seat of the potteries ; and the last two, Warwickshire and S. Staffordshire ; Coventry deriving its supplies from the one, Lichfield, Walsal, and Dudley from the latter, and Birmingham chiefly also from it, but partly from both. In S. Staffordshire occurs the enormous seam known as the Ten-yard Coal of Dudley. It properly con sists of several seams separated by very thin beds of clay, called partings, and, owing to the necessity of working it in sections, is by no means so profitable as might be imagined. The average annual output of coal in Great Britain has been conjectured, rather than calculated, at 30 millions of tons, and apportioned in three equal parts ten millions to domestic use, ten to ironworks, and ten to manufacturing and miscel laneous establishments and export. Assuming the medium price of 6s. 8d. per ton, the value is 10,000,000 sterling. The export of coal to foreign countries, in 1849, was, including cinders and culm, 2,837,979 tons. The following Table shows the progress of the foreign coal trade : TONS or COALS SHTPPED COASTWISE, and EXPORTED to BHITISH COLONIES and FOREIGN COUNTRIES i 1844-46. 1844. 1845. 1846. Coastwise 7,377,863 8,723,468 8,305,443 British Colonies 324,425 363,255 412,928 Foreign Countries 1,429,740 2,167,927 2,118,180 Total 9,132,033 11,254,630 10,836,550 Iron. Almost the whole of the iron ore smelted in this country is a carbonate, which is invariably found, to a greater or less extent, in all coal measures, but exhibits itself in a great variety of forms, and with very different qualities. Of our great coal fields, none is so destitute of iron as that cf Newcastle ; and hence, though not a few blast furnaces are in operation there, the ores used are obtained, not from the surrounding pits, but by importation, often from consider able distances. More than one furnace is supplied by black- band ironstone shipped from Scotland, after being calcined. The most important iron districts of England are those of S. Yorkshire, Shropshire, S. Staffordshire, and S. Wales. The coal fields already described sufficiently fix their locali ties ; and, therefore, it is only necessary to mention here that the ores are obtained partly from bands, and partly from seams. The former name is usually applied to nodules or balls, generally of a round or oval shape, which lie together with considerable regularity, often in contact, but always without adhesion, and are, for the most part, embedded in thick beds of shale or Macs. The latter name is given to ironstone lying in regular strata, and worked in the same manner as coal. These strata generally are only a few inches, and scarcely ever a foot in thickness. Perhaps not always the finest in quality, but, for many reasons, the most valuable of the stratified ironstones is the blackband, so called from the darkness of colour produced by the large proportion of coaly matter which it contains. It is singular that the only part of England known to contain this stratum, is a portion of the coal field of S. Wales. In Scotland, also, it was at one time supposed that it was merely a local deposit, and that its ex istence, or at least its good qualities, were confined to the range of a few miles in the neighbourhood of Airdrie. Here, accordingly, some of the largest smelting establishments of tho kingdom suddenly sprung up; and a small estate, the surface of which did not yield 500 per annum, began to yield its fortunate possessor, from its mineral treasures, at least 10,000 ocr annum. A more careful examination has proved that few of our Scottish coal fields are without these blackband seams, and numerous ironworks have, in consequence, arisen in numerous districts, where their profitable exist ence had hitherto been deemed impossible. To the N. of the Forth, only one ironwork had been able to maintain a languishing existence. Other two, one with five and the other with two blast furnaces, have already been erected. BRITISH EMPIRE 501 BRITISH EMPIRE On the opposite bank of the Forth, stand the Kinneil Works, with four furnaces, supplied with ironstone from old pits, in which the seam had been sunk through while its value was unknown. In Lanarkshire, the area of the seam has proved equally extensive, but, from the number of ironworks previ ously existing, it has not so much led to the establishment of new as to the extension of old works, and to the almost universal substitution of blackband for the inferior claystones formerly in use. Ayrshire, on the other hand, where the works of Muir- kirk only existed, is now beginning to be almost studded over with them. A discovery of perhaps greater importance than that of the blackband, because applicable to the ironworks of England as well as to those of Scotland, took place about the same time. By heating the blast, before entering the furnace, to about 600 (i.e., to such a degree that lead exposed to it melts), its power is so much increased, that the most stubborn materials quickly give way before it, and raw coal becomes even more efficient in smelting than coke was before. A ton of iron can thus be obtained with much fewer materials, and, what is of considerable moment, in far less time. A furnace which, under cold blast, makes 70 tons a week, easily makes 100 under hot blast. Another improvement, by which the gases evolved within the furnace are not allowed to escape, but collected, and made available for fuel, is in operation in several works, and promises important results. The annual make of pig-iron in the kingdom is estimated at 1,500,000 tons. About one-third is used for castings, and the remainder, not exported, is converted into malleable iron. In this second part of the process, Scotland apparently fails. Her furnaces smelt about one-third of the whole produce, but a considerable part of this make is sent as pig to England, to be made malleable there, either by itself, or in mixture with English pig. The cause of this is not very obvious, but there is probably some ground for a prevalent belief that pig made from a variety of ores, as in England, is somewhat superior to that made from blackband alone, and that this superiority becomes still more manifest when it is made malleable. A similar opinion exists in some quarters as to the superior strength of iron made by cold blast ; which, accordingly, notwithstanding of its numer ous disadvantages in other respects, is still used to a consider able extent. The principal statistics of the iron trade arc given in the following Table : PRODUCTION OF IRON, and EXPORT, in GREAT BRITAIN. Export in tons. Years. Furnaces. Quantities in tons. Bar Iron. Pig Iron. 1830 376 677,417 59,885 ]2,036 3840 4o2 1,396,400 144,719 49,801 1844 1,400,000 249,915 99,960 The whole production of 1849 has been estimated at 1 ,500,000 tons. Of this quantity, Scotland, possessing 113 furnaces, pro duced 690,000 tons. The annual produce, per furnace, in 1796, did not exceed 1033 tons; in 1849, it had risen to 6306 tons. The principal localities in which lead, copper, and tin are found, have been already mentioned. Additional facts of importance are subjoined : ESTIMATED ANNUAL AVERAGE PRODUCE of SMELTED LEAD, COPPER, and TIN, form 1845-48, in tons. Lead. Copper. Tin. England 35,721 12.870 5000 Wales 10,027 20,823 Scotland 942 Ireland 811 .... Isle of ilau 1,663 . Total 49,164 5000 The ton of lead is supposed to yield, on an average, about 8 oz. of silver. It seems unnecessary to give any details as to minerals of minor importance. The principal articles are salt, of which the quantity obtained, chiefly from rock-salt and brine pits, has been estimated at nearly 550,000 tons. The locality in which salt is most extensively worked at present, centres near Chester ; and the supply is so great as to be inexhaustible. Quarries also exist in every part of the British Isles, except the S.E. of England. They furnish granite susceptible of a polish which makes it fit for statuary, freestone of the purest white and most durable substance, and immense quantities of the finest roofing-slates. As to the value of the produce from quarries, little authentic information exists. The fol lowing summary of the mineral produce of Great Britain, on an average of three years, ending 1846, is from M Culloch s British Empire, 3d edition, vol. i. p. 624 : 17,500 Ibs., Troy, worth.. . 50,000 Silver Copper 13,000 tons Tin 5,500 tons Lead 5(1,000 tons Iron 1,6( 0,000 tons Coal 88,000,000 tons Salt, Alum, and other minor produce... 1,300,000 350,000 1,000,000 9,000,000 19,000,000 1,500,000 32,200,000 It will be seen that several of the quantities differ from those already given, and believed to be more accurate. At present prices, also, the iron and coal as rated in this estimate, are greatly over-valued. Fisheries. The raw materials obtained from the land of the United Kingdom, either by growing them on its surface, or digging them, from its bowels, having now been described, we proceed to notice those which are obtained from its waters, including under the term, not merely rivers and lakes, but bays and creeks, and immediately surrounding seas. Con sidering the large extent of space occupied by these within the interior of the kingdom, and along its coast, it might be supposed that the fisheries, by which their produce is obtained, would be one of our greatest national interests. They have accordingly been felt to be so, and many efforts have been made by Government to foster them. The success of these efforts not being such as to encourage their continuance, all bounties have been withdrawn. One great obstacle to the general consumption of fresh fish, has been the difficulty of transport, now much diminished by the facilities offered by railways, and it would seem that in some important inland towns, where fresh fish were previously known only as an expensive luxury, they can now be had at a price which places them within the general reach, so far at least as to afford a wholesome and grateful change of diet. The prin cipal British fisheries are those of salmon, herring, and cod. The first is carried on chiefly in the rivers and estuaries of Scotland and Ireland ; the second on all the coasts and islands of Scotland, the great centre of resort for curing being the towns of Wick, Peterhead, and Fraserburgh ; the last around the N. islands, and along the E. coast of Great Britain, par ticularly the edges of the Dogger Bank, off the coast of York shire. Among minor fisheries may be mentioned those of mackerel, pilchards, oysters, and lobsters. Of these last, and indeed of all kinds of fresh fish, by far the largest consumer of the kingdom is London. Manufactures. Taking these in the order of their import ance, we begin with cotton. The history of this manufacture, which now employs more hands than any other within the kingdom, and furnishes above one-third in value of the whole exports, is indeed remarkable. The raw material is of vege table origin, and is obtained from the internal coating of the pod or seed-vessel of the Gossypium, of which there are several varieties, some growing as a tree or shrub, and others as an annual herbaceous plant. It is from the latter that the far greater part of the supply is obtained ; and for this supply, as none of the varieties grow in our climate, we are entirely dependent on other countries. Cotton grows well in India, and would undoubtedly thrive well in many of our other posses sions ; but at present, and for many years, the supply has been in a manner monopolized by a few of the slave states of N. America. In so far, therefore, as regards the raw material, we have no advantage in the market over other competitors ; but, compared with one of the most jealous and enterprising of them, are placed in unfavourable circumstances. The more astonishing is our success in gaining the lead, and main taining it, while all other nations are lagging at an immeasur able distance behind. The explanation of the fact is to be found in the nature of the manufacture, and a series of won derful inventions, all made, with the exception of that of the American Whitney, for separating the cotton from the seed, by subjects of Great Britain by Arkwright, Hargreaves, Compton, and Cartwright contrivances, too, tending, in a remarkable manner, to give new advantages to a country possessing, like ours, exhaustless fields of coal, unrivalled machinery, vast accumulations of capital, and a dense, orderly, and industrious population. On the subject of this manu facture, interesting volumes have been written; and as any BRITISH EMPIRE 502 BRITISH EMPIRE analysis, however condensed, would far exceed our limits, the leading facts must be exhibited in a tabular form. TABTE OF IMPORTS of COTTON WOOL into, and of EXFOKTS and DECLARED VALUE of COTTON MANUFACTUKKS, TWIST, and YAKN, from the UNITED KINGDOM. Import. Export Wool. TwUt and Tarn. Cotton Goods. Dec. Value. Tear.. Ibs. 11)8. yds. 1>20 151,672,655 23,032,325 248,370,630 16,516,748 1890 203,961,452 64,645,342 4-14,598,498 19,428,064 ItvM) 1-45 1819 592,488,010 722,080,000 755,469,008 118,470,223 135,144,865 154,457,540 790,631,997 1,091,685,469 1,442,813,645 24,668,618 26,119,804 19,642,770 1850 664,696,816 185,790,278 1,472,334,391 21,431,180 TABLE, shotting the effect of successive improremtnts in diminishing the price of COTTON CLOTHS ; the same article a piece of Culico, titotcn in the trade as 72J w given throughout. 1814 1-20 1830 1810 1644 Price of Cotton. Price of Weaving. Selling Price. J. d. 2 6 1 1 o <;; 6 4f i. d. 3 2 1 4 1 3 1 It S. d. 1 8 15 9J 8 3 073 069 Woollen. This is our most ancient, and was for centuries our great staple manufacture. The flocks fed on our downs a iid other pastures, furnished wool of peculiar excellence, and in such abundance, as both supplied the home demand at a moderate price, and left a large surplus for exportation. There cannot be a doubt, however, that the first great im provements were not of native invention, but were intro duced by foreigners, whom either the wise policy of our sovereigns had allured, or the merciless bigotry of their sovereigns had driven into the kingdom. Though the manu facture cannot boast of an extension like that of cotton, it holds the next place to it ; and, besides working up the greater part of the wool grown within the kingdom, draws largely on other countries for additional supplies, particu larly on Australia, which see, p. 263. In the finer broad cloths our manufacturers have formidable competitors in the Belgians, from whose forefathers we may be said to have learned this branch, and also in the Saxons ; but in other woollens our position, in several branches, is at least as high as that of any other country, while in not a few our superi ority is decided. The chief seat of the woollen manufacture is in England the W. Riding of Yorkshire, Lancashire, Gloucestershire, and Wiltshire, being the most distinguished for broad cloths ; Norfolk for worsted stuffs, Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire for woollen hosiery. Blankets and flannels have numerous localities, but for the finer qualities the W. of England and several of the Welsh counties are most conspicuous. Carpets, of every qualityand pattern, are extensively made at Kidderminster, Cirences- ter, Worcester, &c. ; but those of Wilton and Axminster are so su perior, as to suffer little by compa rison with the celebrated fabrics of Turkey and Persia. A particular species of woollen manufacture, in which the resources of modern in genuity are signally displayed, is that of shoddy. Its raw material is woollen rags, which, after various purifying processes, are re duced to their original wool, then re-spun, re-dyed, and re- manufactured. Formerly, the article produced was so coarse as to be fit only for padding and similar purposes, but now, either alone or with a partial mixture of raw wool, shoddy is made into flushings, druggets, pilot and other great-coats, car pets, and table-covers, some of the last of great beauty. The principal seat of the shoddy trade is Dewsbury, about 8 m. from Leeds. The woollen manufacture of Ireland is on a verylimited scale, being confined to a few broad-cloth factories near Dublin and Cork ; and a few blankets and flannels, the former in Kil kenny, and the latter at Wicklow. Scotland has made much more progress, but still bears no proportion to England. Tho chief seats of the Scotch woollens are Aberdeen for broad cloths, chiefly coarse, and the spinning of worsted ; Kilmar- nock for carpets, bonnets, and shawls ; Stirling and its neighbourhood for carpets and tartans ; Galashiels, Jed- burgh, and also a number of small towns along the foot of the Ochils, for narrow cloths of several varieties, tartans, shawls, plaids, &c.; Inverness for tartans, and llawick for hosiery. Linen. In England the spinning of flax is carried on to a great extent, but its manufacture into cloth is comparatively limited. A considerable quantity of damask and diaper is made at Bamsley. Should the recently invented process, for the improved preparation of raw flax, have the effect an ticipated, and enable the present cotton machinery to spin fine thread from a mixture composed of a large portion of flax and a small portion of cotton, and producible at a much cheaper rate than cotton singly, the manufacture of flax in this form may be expected to make almost unexampled progress. Linen is the great staple of Ireland, and was long, in regard to textile fabrics, the staple also of Scotland. In the former, extraordinary means were employed to foster it. It early fixed its seat in the N., particularly near Belfast, and there the great changes which have taken place in the mode of manufacture, by the substitution of spinning- mills and fac tories for the domestic wheel and loom, appear only to have fixed it more permanently. Almost the only form into which flax is manufactured in Ireland is plain linen, chiefly shirt ings. In Scotland, the manufacture assumes greater variety. Besides plain linen, it has manufactures of Osnaburgs, sheet ings, sailcloth, sacking, &c., chief seat, Dundee ; and of diaper and damask, chief seat, Dunfermline. The staples of both towns are by far the most important of their kind in the king dom. Silk. Here the raw material is, like cotton, entirely of foreign production, with the important difference in favour of silk, that, instead of being almost monopolized, and con sequently liable, in regard both to quantity and price, to be controlled by a single country, the limits of its production include an immense range, of which a considerable portion belongs to our own colonies and dependencies. This is per haps the only great branch of manufacture, in regard to which, at least in finer fabrics, we must yield the palm of superiority, and be contented with something less than equality. The number of silk-mills is considerable, and confined chiefly to England. To England, likewise, belong the chief seats of the silk manufacture. Paisley is almost the only town out of it in which it is carried on to a great extent ; and even there, the celebrated shawls of unrivalled excellence are generally a mixed fabric of silk and wool. The chief seats of the silk trade in England are, the district of Spitalfields in London, Manchester, and Coventry. The following Table contains a statement of the imports of the raw materials of the woollen, linen, and silk manu factures; and of the exports of goods manufactured from them. Quantity of Rrw Materials Imported. Declared Value of Goorls Exported. Wool. Flax and Codilla.. Silk. Woollen Goods. Woollen Tarn. Linen Goods. Linen Tarn. Silk Good.. Tear.. 11)8. cwts. 11)3. 1815 76,813,855 1,418,323 4,354,696 10,564,434 l,06fi,925 3,036,370 1,060,566 766,405 Is46 1847 1818 1849 1850 65,117,668 62.130.S07 70,521,957 75,113,347 72,674,483 1,146,743 1,049,541 1,462,007 1,806,673 1,821,578 4,:;9n,OlH 4,123,811 4,418,360 4,991,472 4,942,417 6,334,296 6,870,818 5,740,634 7,342,723 K.584,859 907,893 1,006,891 776,175 1,090,228 1,451,093 2,838,384 2,968,895 2,802,823 3,493,829 3,957,735 b/5,556 600.307 4^9,^78 732,065 887.295 837,577 978,114 585,033 798,651 1,050,645 Beside the manufactures already mentioned, there is a great number which, though separately of less importance, absorb immense sums of capital, exhibit many of the most wonderful specimens of human ingenuity, and give subsistence to millions of the population. We can do little more than glance at the most prominent. Under the head of minerals, we only noticed the preliminary steps of converting ores into metals ; and, in the case of iron, we referred to the additional step of converting it, from its first smelted state, into malleable iron. Vast processes re main behind, and constitute numerous branches of manu facture under the general name of hardware. Several of the BRITISH EMPIRE 503 BRITISH EMPIRE articles produced are of a boldness and magnitude almost sublime, and many of them are so small as to be almost microscopic. To the former class belong iron bridges, no longer suspension only, but tubular bridges, one of which, the latest wonder of the age, now spans the Menai Straits ; steam-engines, either lifting up whole rivers from the lowest depths, or ploughing the widest and stormiest oceans ; or, it may be, performing some minute or singularly delicate process, which the most skilful human fingers would vainly within a very narrow compass. The two fundamental points are, the extent of our commerce, as indicated by the quantity and value of imports and exports; and the direction of our commerce, as indicated by its apportionment among the dif ferent countries with which it is carried on. These points, and some others of a kindred nature, such as the quantity of shipping employed, are elucidated by the following Tables I IMPORTS into the UNITED KINGDOM in 1849 and 1850. animate matter acts as if it were endowed with vitality, not only performing its appointed tasks, but giving distinct and audible warning when, from accidental causes, it becomes in capable of performing them. For minuter articles of hard ware, reference may be made to the countless products of Sheffield and Birmingham, not excluding articles in the pre cious metals plate, jewellery, and watches, made also exten sively in the same towns, but nowhere in the wide world so perfectly as in London. Passing from metals we come to earths, both in the more ordinary forms of pottery, and in the form of porcelain, with its classic shapes and gorgeous colours, and exquisite designs. In the district of the potteries in i Stafford, we see a great national interest, almost created by 1 the enterprise and genius of a single man. Among earths, too, at least as to principal constituents, we may include glass, and the numberless forms of beauty and utility which it has been taught to assume. The principal seats of the manufac ture are Newcastle and South Shields ; but should the beau tiful material which it produces become applicable in the erection of structures such as that just completed in London for the World s Fair, it is evident that both in this and other lands the manufacture of glass is only beginning to exist. Another manufacture, almost of equal beauty, and of more im portance to civilization, is that of paper. It is of vast extent, and, in its processes, exhibits some of the highest triumphs which human ingenuity has yet achieved. In connection with it are various manufactures, of which it may be considered as, directly or indirectly, the parent type-founding, printing, books, and with them literature in its various departments, en graving, &c. From these we must descend to less refined em- i ployments, and one of the first which claims attention is the manufacture of leather, including its various subdivisions of tanning, currying, shoe, glove, and harness making, with nu merous minor branches in which leather is employed, as in making trunks, portmanteaus, &c. The list of manufactures would be very incomplete did we not mention hats, soap, and candles ; sugar-refining, and the various chemicals on which our textile manufactures iu particular depend, for accomplish ing their nicer processes, as bleaching, dyeing, &c. Our last head, and it is the only one of whose undue magnitude phil- ! anthropists justly complain, is that of breweries and distiller ies. The former, furnishing the national beverage of England, are there of unparalleled magnitude, but the liquor must be used in great excess before it can be productive of serious mischief. The latter have their greatest extent in Scotland and Ireland. The product, taken undiluted or in excess, is worse than a poison. To its maddening effects, three-fourths of the poverty and crime, at least of Scotland, may be traced. Trade and Commerce. In every country possessing much accumulated capital and a dense population, partly in wealthy, and generally in somewhat comfortable circumstances, the home may safely be presumed to be greater than the externa trade. Its extent, however, cannot easily be ascertained, even in countries where all the districts and towns are hemmed round with officers to levy customs on every article which may be brought into them, and becomes altogether conjec tural in a country like ours, where not a shadow of restraint prevents us from moving about at will, and transporting both our persons and our goods throughout its whole length and breadth. Our foreign trade or commerce, properly so called, is more easily calculated, at least in its leading branches ; but the magnitude to which it has attained is so great, and the strides with which it continues to advance so rapid, that it is impossible to contemplate it without feeling bewildered and overpowered. Fortunately we now possess official in formation on almost every topic of a commercial nature, and by drawing freely on the tables regularly published by the Board of Trade, and using a little discretion in selecting from them, everything of essential importance can be communicated Animals, living Horned cattle.. number Sheep and Lambs number Ashes, Pearl and Pot cwts Bacon and Pork. .. . cwts 1849. 1850. 53,449 129,266 158,541 732,970 2,653 1,40* 368,582 149,962 29,42! 845,388 281,9(19 5,338 390,147 6^,585 7,805,385 63,315,787 3,845,378 1,381,008 1 267 106 66,462 143,498 184,043 547,568 7,287 1,745 380,674 135,414 27,183 664,6 331,135 7,617 347,773 78,041 4,478,328 50,809,521 3,754,595 1,043,051 1,165,856 94,078 181,419 443,306 1,286,264 868 3,855,059 11,4 1 7,448 186,010 6b,9o3 297,176 44,315 905,966 97,561 195,060 105,761,995 136,198 1,85:1,578 463,693 403,501 60,415 3,573 276,313 29,801 122,391 116,926 16,263 1,048,635 591,920 80,h57 229,614 777,941 3,261,0(11 5,289 2,049 30,334 17,682 30,065 8,531 32,778 45,930 97,706 34,066 49 11,977 18,626 83,332 21,328 448,589 98,040 20,783 65,055 126,318 1,348,883 355,079 785,692 Barilla and Alkali tons Bark for Tanners or Dyers use...cwts Beef, fresh and salted cwts Bones of Animals, &c., whether ) burnt or not, or as animal >ton charcoal ) Brimstone cwt Butter . . cwts Caoutchouc cwts Clocks value S Cocoa Ibs Coffee... His Corn : Wheat qrs Barley qrs Oats . qrs.. 240,556 231,366 457,933 2,224,459 11,15,0 Pease qrs Beans qrs Buckwheat or Bi^g qrs Malt qrs Wheatmeal or Flour.- cwt s . Indian Corn Meal cwts Other Meal cwts Cotton Manufactures not made ) pieces up: East India Piece goods ] value Other Articles value Cotton Manufactures, wholly ) , or in part made up .". f val cotton Yarn {Star.::::: Dyes and Dyeing Stuffs tons 3,349,839 101^84 60,320 178,418 45,545 246,301 40,911 413,478 45,759 233,065 97,745,849 104,710 1,806,673 496,865 361,412 44,551 3,094 209,180 32,7-16 68,106 83,438 11,751 1,061,893 678,952 85,243 186,373 700,171 3,656,752 4,639 1,904 28,736 15,130 33,762 13,453 29,012 47,433 51,808 29,396 1,012 7,216 15,915 85,827 20,012 493,331 64,452 16,9<i4 69,462 105,724 1,417,867 2,682,592 976,196 Embroidery and Needlework value Flax and Tow, or Codilla of) . Hemp and Flax } cwts ( chests, boxes. Lemons and Oranges 4 No. (loose).... (at value .... Glass Manufactures cwts Glass, 1 of an inch thick sq. feet Hemp, undressed cwts Hides, tanned anduntanned cwts Lace, Thread, &c value Leather Manufactures pairs Gloves pairs Other Manufactures ot Leather..value Linen Manufactures: Lawns, ), not French Rvalue Cambrics and French Lawns.pieces Damasks & Damask Diapers .sq. yards Plain Linen & Diaper, &) Manufactures unenum- > value crated, not made up ) Sails and Articles wholly ) , or in part made up f Talue Mahogany tons Metals: Copper Ore & lle<;ulus..toiis Copper, unwrought and part ) , wrought ) Iron, in" bar*, unwrouglit tons Steel, unwrought tons Lead, pig and sheet tons ^oriubs 00 .^:.. 1 . 1180 . 15 ..! 1 ! 1 : 8 } wt3 Oil : Train , Blubber, and ) Spermaceti ) l Palm cwts Olive tuns Oil Seed-cakes tons Opium Ibs Quicksilver Ibs BRITISH EMPIRE 504 BRITISH EMPIRE IMPORTS continued. 1849. 1850. Rice in Husk qrs Saltpetre and Cubic Nitre cwts Seeds: Clover... cwts 31,828 666,794 130 254 37,154 629,012 94040 Flaxseed and Linseed qrs 626,495 "9 ISO 6 8,986 Tares ... qrs.. 80623 27 98 Silk: Raw. . Ibs . 4 991 47-2 49t417 Waste, Knulis. and Hu<ks cwts Thrown Ibs 12,757 61 1- 770 15,6 iO 409 526 Silk Manufactures Ibs.. 754 127 6 13 396 Velvet Broad Stuffs. His 31 97 "7 674 Ribbons of Velvet or Silk ) embossed with Velvet \ 1I)S Plush tor making Hats Ibs Silk Manufactures "of India pieces Spices cwts 61,803 165,903 518,748 9,376,679 5 306 B- 1 ? 16,6/5 138,909 715,739 13,914,959 4 188639 4 479 549 Geneva proof galls 471 236 337 042 6 937 349 6 "86031 304 39 1 355 387 Molasses cwts 1 062*837 905 054 Tallow cwts Tar lasts 1,465,6-29 15 206 1,241,781 1 096 Tea... Ibs T.mber, Battens, &c hundred Other Timber loads Tobacco: Unmanufactured Ibs Manufactured, and Snuff. Ibs Turpentine, common cwts 22 1,703,609 42,098,126 1,913,474 412042 34 1,749,267 33,894,500 1,532,829 434 621 Watches value Whale Fins cwts 80,305 8,926 97,245 9,498 Wine: Cape gallons French gallons.. Other sorts gallons 264,106 466,109 7,239,792 234,781 600,512 8,432,280 Total of Wine 7,970,007 9,267,573 Wool, Cotton Ibs.... 75 113 347 72 674 483 Alpaca and the Llama Tribe... .11)3 Woollen Manufactures value 1,055,300 737,870 1,652,295 682,042 EXPORTS from the UNITED KINGDOM in IS 19 and 1850, with their DECLARED VALUE. Alkali.viz., soda, cwts Beer and ale, brls.... P.utter, cwts ........... Candles, Ibs ........... Cheese, cwts .......... Coals and Culm, tons Cordage, cwts .......... Cotton manuf., yds... Sewing thread, His. Hosiery, doz. pairs Various ............... Cotton yarn, Ibs ....... Earthenware, pieces, Fish, brls ....... .. ....... Glass manuf., cwts.. Haberdashery, &c.... Hardwares, &c ........ Leather,unwrt.,cwt? wrought, Ibs. Linen manuf., yds. ., Sewing thread, Ibs, Various ............... Linen yarn, Ibs ....... Machinery .............. Metals, tons ............ Oil and seeds, galls.. Painters colours, &c. Salt, bush ............... Silk manuf., Ibx ....... S. stockings, doz.pr* Various ............... Silk, thrown, Ibs ...... Silk, twist & yarn, Ibs Soap, cwts .............. Stationery ............. Sugar, refined, cwts. WooUenman.{P- Stockings, doz. pairs Various .............. Woollen yarn, cwts. 689,833 135,692 64,831 2,353,166 6,759 2,828,039 74,169 ,442,813,645 4,955,259 303,507 1-19,502,281 61,528,196 336,400 268,678 182,519 60,659 2.723..531 8,347 ,607 89.219 1,478,334,931 4jSn,\lQ 234,163 131,453,168 76,952,735 259,539 336,614 16,395 1,554,107 111452,395 2,874,038 17,264,033 750,455 2,732,720 18,539,865 817,651 18,753 100,869 369801 101,222 223,273 11,200,472 2,391,184 51,656,130 165,615 105,116 32,112 1,649,062 122,860,623 3,361,922 18,559,318 829,529 3,292,166 15,824,780 1,184,480 16,750 "69,874 475,536 124,038 209,235 12,000,459 2,778,724 63,731,053 119,873 123,151 Declared Value. 1 819. 302,052 418,325 217,844 80,644 21,921 1,087,122 135,237 19,280,129 428,276 119,453 243,188 6,704,089 807,395 428,202 254,350 1,192,108 2,201,315 j- 501,298 3,216,366 269,178 73^065 700,031 8,001,459 279,407 208,289 252,991 610,126 34,488 154,037 81,150 118,532 159,6/5 314,704 373,721 536,805 4,012,582 2,413,625 86,755 199,761 1,090,223 Total 58,910,863 65,767,315 402,129 557,894 210,871 98,108 30,604 1,2-0,3 H 155,210 21,091,688 459,750 104,434 236,058 6,380,948 999,354 337,393 308,346 1,470,384 2,639,728 608,056 3,609,679 330,328 17,72s 887,295 1,0437(14 8,751,120 413,020 217,803 224,073 816,907 23,683 210,155 53,175 161,631 201,374 407,334 344,134 623,964 5,383,062 2,876,848 74,482 250,467 1,451,093 An ACCOUNT of the TOTAL OFFICIAL VALUE of all the IMPORTS into, and of alt KxroRTs from the UNITED KINGDOM, exclusive uj (lie Trade beticeen GREAT BRITAIN aid IRELAND; also the DKCLARKD VALUE of the PRODUCE and MANUFACTLRKS of the UNITED KINGDOM EX PORTED in each of the following 1 ean: Offlc al Value of 1 in ports. Officitl Value of Exports. Declared Vnlue of the Produce and M:iiifotures of thr United bpwtad. Produce and Miiniititctures 01" the United Kingdom. Forr-lcn and Colonial Merchandise. Total Exports. T,-r. 1820 32,438,650 38,395,625 10,555,912 48,951,537 36,424,652 1821 30,792,760 40,831,744 10,629,689 61,401,434 36,059,9:50 1822 30,500,094 41,236,533 9,227,589 53,464,122 30,908,904 1S23 35,798,707 43,804,372 8,003,904 62,408,277 35,458,048 1824 37,55 ,935 48,735,551 10,204,785 68,940,336 38,390,300 1825 41,137,482 47,166,020 9,109,494 66,335,514 38,877,388 1826 37,686,113 40.965,735 10,076,286 51,042,022 31,530,723 1827 41,887,774 52,219,280 9,S30,728 62,050,008 37.182.857 1828 45,028,805 52,797,455 9,946,545 62,744,000 30,814,176 1.S29 43,981,317 60,213,041 10,622,402 66,835,444 35,830,649 1830 40,245,241 61,140,804 8,550,437 69,691,302 38,251,502 1831 49,713,889 60,683,933 10,745,071 71,429,004 37,163,647 1832 44,586,741 65,026,702 11,644,869 76,071,572 36,444,524 1833 45,952,551 0!l,Js<l,339 9,833,753 79,823,093 39,667,347 1834 49,362,811 73,831,550 11,562,036 85,393,587 41,649,191 1835 48,911,542 78,376,732 12,797,724 91,174,456 47,372,270 1836 57,230,967 85,229.837 12,:91,712 97,621,549 53,293,971 1837 54,737,301 72,5-18,047 13,233,622 85,781,669 42,069,245 1838 61,208,320 92,459,281 12,711,318 105,170,549 50,060,970 1839 62,004,000 97,402,726 12,795,990 110,198,716 53,233,580 18tO 67,432,904 102,705,372 13,774,306 116,479,678 51,406,430 1841 64,377,962 102,180,517 14,723,151 116,903,608 51,634,623 1812 65,204,729 100,200,101 13,584,158 113,844,259 47,381,023 1843 70,093,353 117,877,278 13,956,113 131,833,391 50,278,449 1844 75,441,555 131,564,503 14,397,246 145,961,749 58,584,292 1845 85,281,958 134,599,116 16,280,870 150,879,986 60,111,081 1846 75,953,875 132,288,345 16,296,162 148,584,507 57,780,875 1847 90,921,866 126,157,910 20,036,100 116,194,079 58,971,166 1848 93,547,134 132,904,407 18,308,113 151,272,520 53,083,344 1849 105,874,607 164,539,504 25,561,890 190,101,394 68,910,888 1850 65,756,032 DECLARED VALUE of BRITISH MANUFACTURED GOODS EXPORTED to the wider-mentioned COUNTRIES in 1846, 1847. 1840. IM7. BRITISH COLONIES. 480 979 6sg 208 Mauritius 310 231 223 563 28309 31378 Australia and New Zealand 1 441 646 1 6*4 170 British North America British West Indies British India and Ceylon.. 3,308,059 2,505,587 6 434 456 3,233,014 2,102,577 5 470 105 FOREIGN COUNTRIES. 715 903 2 554283 1 1 58 034 1 059 450 Turkey. 1 749 125 2 570 9S9 1,725,148 1,844,543 Holland :<,576,4f59 3,01 7,4 ?3 3391,022 6326 210 23I*,707 6 007 366 1 308 933 1 5(i9 776 Sumatra and Java 357,918 357,870 African Coast China 421,620 1,791,439 2 443 937 518,420 1,503,909 1 707 903 Brazil . 2 749 333 :1 ,C.h Mil United States 6,830,460 10974,161 SHIPPING employed in the TRADE of the UNITED KINGDOM in 1848. ards. Out wards. Ships. Ton,. Ships. Ton,. British 21,783 4,565,533 21,117 4,724,02? [oreign 13,100 1,960,412 13,645 2,056,654 Total 31,883 6,525,945 34,762 6,780,681 MERCANTILK SHIPPING belonging to the BRITISH EMPI 1848. United Kingdom.. Colonies and) Dependencies.. ) Total 24,520 7,908 3,249,383 638,061 32,428 I 3,887,447 1118 151,426 13,287 164,713 8M7S 3,400,809 651,351 1,052,160 BRITISH EMPIRE 505 BRITISH EMPIRE GOVERNMENT. Under this general head, a variety of im portant particulars are included. The first in order is the Constitution. The British Constitution is the growth, and embodies the wisdom and experience, of ages. No man or set of men first preconceived it in theory, and then proceeded to give it a real existence. It assumed its leading features in times when theories were little thought of, and has become what it now is almost imperceptibly, without premeditated design, so that it may truly be regarded as more the result of providential arrangement than of human invention. A con stitution so formed, is necessarily full of anomalies, which perplex the theorist, and refuse to bend into accordance with his speculative forms. At the same time, the type of govern ment to which it belongs is obvious. It is a limited, hered itary monarchy, in which the executive power is lodged in the Sovereign, but controlled in its exercise by the legislative power, shared in common by three bodies, of which the Sovereign, though the first in dignity, is by no means the most influential member. The second and third of these bodies are the House of Lords and House of Commons, who meet and vote in separate Chambers. With the Sovereign at their head, they form the Legislature or Parliament ; and every enactment, before becoming law, must obtain their separate assent, given first by the House in which it origin ated, and expressed either unanimously or by an open vote ; then in like manner by the other House ; and, finally, by the Sovereign, the date of whose assent is held to be that of the operation of the Act, provided no other date is specially ex pressed. The House of Lords is composed of Lords temporal, that is, peers of blood-royal, British peers, representative peers not British, and of Lords spiritual. Peers of blood- royal sit by courtesy ; British peers, after their first creation, by hereditary right ; representative Peers by election. Peers of the last class are partly Scotch, partly Irish, and are elected by the other peers of their respective countries, who are not British. Scotch peers, 16 in number, are elected for each Parliament ; Irish peers, 28, sit for life. Lords spiritual are archbishops and bishops of the United Church of England and Ireland. All those of England, with exception of four without seats, sit for life. Of those of Ireland, only four (one an archbishop) sit by rotation for a single session. The House of Lords is presided over by the Lord Chancellor, and, in addition to its legislative, performs judicial functions, being, in all civil causes, the Supreme Court of Appeal for the three kingdoms. The third body is the House of Commons. Its members are elected for a single Parliament, which ex pires legally in seven years, and generally sooner. Its members, 658, are arranged as follows : .471 ..105 658 England 40 Counties 141 2 Universities 4 186 Cities and Borough*) 323 V. ales 12 Counties . 15 57 Cities and Boroughs 14 Scotland 33 Counties 30 76 Cities and Boroughs 23 Ireland 32 Counties 64 1 University 2 33 Cities and Boroughs 39 The qualifications of the electors vary, in min< the different kingdoms ; but the general principle is to givt a vote for county members to every male not under legal incapacity, who within the county either owns houses or lands to the clear value of 10 per annum, or rents them to the amount of 50 per annum ; and a vote for borough members to every like male who owns or occupies houses or lands of the value of 10 per annum, within a certain limit, called the parliamentary burgh, and actually resides within 7 m. The number of electors, according to the registrations of 1849-50, is as follows : England. Wales. Scotland. Ireland. Total. Counties 461,413 36,984 48,456 31,8:52 578,685 Boroughs 378,384 11,035 41,849 40,234 471,502 839,797 48,019 90,305 72,066 1,050,187 The president of the House of Commons is the Speaker, one of the members elected by a majority of the others at the commencement of each Parliament, and for its whole duration. In general, any legislative measure may originate in either House; but the House of Commons possesses the exclusive VOL. I. privilege of originating money bills, and voting money a privilege which it guards so jealously, that it will not allow the Lords to make any change on a money clause in any bill, of the most general nature, which the Commons may have passed, and sent up to them. When we are told of the im mense power of the Crown its sole right to levy armies, and fit out navies, to make peace or declare war, to appoint all the high functionaries of the State, and dignitaries of the Church ; when we are further told that the Sovereign is in violable in person, nay, by an undisputed maxim of the Con stitution, can do no wrong we are almost tempted to imagine that our boasted free Constitution is little better than an unmitigated despotism ; but when we look, on the other hand, to the money privilege of the Commons, and to the necessary consequence, that most of the mighty things which the Crown can theoretically do, it cannot do actually without their sanction, the danger to the Constitution, if there is danger, is seen to lie elsewhere. A revolutionary House of Commons would in fact be a revolution accomplished. But there is no danger, and therefore there need be no fear. Reference has been made to the maxim that the Sovereign can do no wrong. The words sound strangely, but their meaning simply is, that the acts of the Government are con sidered to be the acts, not of the Sovereign, but of the Min istry which for the time conducts the Government. This Ministry consists principally of what is called the Cabinet, in which are 1 4 high functionaries. Of these the most important are, the First Lord of the Treasury, who is Prime Minister ; the Chancellor of the Exchequer, the Lord Chancellor, and the three Secretaries Home, Foreign, and Colonial. Several other functionaries, though not possessing seats in the Cabinet, are usually regarded as part of the Ministry. It is not with the Sovereign, then, but with ministers, that the responsibility rests ; and hence, for their own safety, when they lose the confidence of Parliament and the country, they have no al ternative but to resign. Other ministers of diiferent prin ciples succeed, and difficulties which might have seemed to threaten a collision between the highest powers of the State, pass off quietly, and are soon forgotten. In this way the Constitution, like some mechanism of exquisite contrivance, possesses within itself a power of re-adjustment, and seems destined if neither overpowered by external violence, nor torn to pieces by internal dissension to be as lasting as the world. Intimately connected with the Constitution, or important integral portions of it, are its Ecclesiastical Establishments, of which there are two ; both Protestant, and in doctrine almost identical, but very different in form the one, under the name of the United Church of England and Ireland, being Episcopal, and the other, confined to Scotland, Presbyterian. As these churches will be fully described under the heads of England, Ireland, and Scotland, it would be out of place to do more here than mention, besides the Established churches, those of the Dissenters, who no longer labour under civil disabili ties, and are both numerous and influential. After ecclesiastical, our attention is naturally directed to Judicial Establishments, for an account of which we again, and for the same reason, refer to the heads of England, Scot land, and Ireland. Indeed, the only court of justice which can be considered as belonging to all of them alike, is the House of Lords sitting in its judicial capacity, as already men tioned, not to exercise original jurisdiction, but to hear civil causes on appeal. Strictly speaking, this is the only Supreme Court within the British Isles, though the name is usually given to the Court or Courts of each kingdom, whose deci sions are subject to no other review but that of the House of Lords. As it is truly to the whole House that the judicial power belongs, every peer having a seat in it is entitled to judge and vote, but in practice, only those called Law Lords exercise judicial functions. From judicial we turn to Military Establishments, usually comprehended under the general head of the Army and Navy. The extent of the British Empire neces sarily makes the aggregate military force very considerable ; but there is no European state in which the standing army bears so small a proportion to the whole population. This great privilege is mainly owing to our safety from foreign aggression, and the internal tranquillity which, with one great exception, generally prevails. The total number of troops of 64 BRITISH EMPIRE 506 BRITISH EMPIRE Ihe line at present, including Queen s troops in the pay of the East India Company, is 129,625. To these must be added 14,410 artillery, making the whole force 144,035. The number on home service is only 51,947, of whom 30,305 are in Great Britain, and 21,642 in Ireland. This of course is the peace establishment, but during the last great Euro pean war, when our very existence as an independent na tion seemed to be threatened, gigantic efforts were made, and no state shared more largely than Great Britain in the glory of saving the liberties of Europe, by putting down an unprincipled tyrant. Wherever British troops have been sent on foreign campaigns, and properly commanded, they have proved unrivalled. Here it is sufficient to name the achievements of Marlborough during the last century, and those of Wellington in the Peninsula and at Waterloo. In many respects, and particularly as a defensive force, the army must yield to the navy. The advantages of our insular posi tion are often talked of, as if the mere fact of living on an island were in itself a source of safety, whereas the safety is not in the position, but in the ability to defend it. In early times, immense fleets, filled with warlike hordes, issued from the frozen loins of the populous North, and poured like a deluge on our shores, which, from their vast extent, and with the feeble means possessed, it was impossible to defend. Our insular position was in those times our greatest weakness, and so must it be again, if we ever lose our decided superiority at sea. The public mind is, happily, alive to this vital consider ation ; and hence, while a large standing army is, for many rea sons, eyed with jealousy, our navy swells every British heart with honest pride, and is confidently appealed to as a suffi cient response to the strange cry which is sometimes heard, proclaiming the defenceless state of Great Britain. A force which is thus honoured and fostered, naturally attracts the best and bravest spirits of the land, and many of the brightest pages in our annals are filled with naval achievements. The principal details respecting the navy are as follows : The number of SHIPS and STEAM VKSSEI.S in the British Navy, with the number of guns they nwuat, and the horse-power of their engines, cor rected up to 1850. 19 First-rates. of 120, 110, and 110 guns, mustering 2,21 6 guns. 76Second&tl)ird-ratesvaryiii<;troml04to70 6,190 126 Fourth, fifth, and sixth-rates 55tol8 4,873 79 Sloops 18to 8 986 16 Brigs 6to 3 78 22 Steam-ships and Irigates with 12,222 horse-power and 281 42 Sloops 13,300 251 38 Gun-vessels 6,7t8 125 2 Schooners (screw, with auxiliary ) -, , fl on steam power) f l/ " Horse-power of steam guard and i Q nft block-ships, classed as fourth-rates ) <3>8UU Making a total of 420 vessels, mounting 15,026 guns, of which 1 14 are steamers, propelled by engines of an aggregate power of 36,180 horses. This does not include the fleet of mail steamers at Dover, Pembroke, Holyhead, Liverpool, &c., which are only armed with light six-pounder guns for signals Money, Weights, and Measures. Passing from subjects of a warlike nature, we come to economical arrangements, and of these, the first which meets us as forming the basis of the whole, is the currency or money system ; and, in connection with it, the system of weights and measures. In the United Kingdom, 1 Ib. Troy of gold, 11 parts pure, and one alloy, is coined into 46 sovereigns and -j^-ths of a sovereign, in other words, into 46, 14s. Qd. ; thus making the mint or standard price 3, 17s. lOJc?. per oz. The gold coins in use are sovereigns and half-sovereigns, and constitute the only legal tender in all sums above 40s. One Ib. Troy of stiver, containing 11 oz. 2 dwts. pure, and 18 dwts. alloy, is coined into 66s., of which 20s. constitutes the money pound ; thus making the mint price of silver 5s. 6d. per The silver coins in use are five-shilling pieces or crowns, half-crowns, shilling pieces, half-shillings or sixpences, four penny pieces, and threepenny pieces. The only copper coins are pence, each of which is T 5 th of a shilling, and halfpence. They are legal tender to the amount of Is. Coins form a co paratively small part of the circulating medium of the coun try. A far larger part consists of mere representatives of value, in the form of obligations to pay. Of these the most common in use are bank notes, or documents binding the par ;ies who issue them to pay the specified sums contained on ;hem, to the bearer on demand. The permission to issue bank notes is now confined to certain existing banks, and to certain definite amounts for each bank. By far the largest circulation is that of the bank of England. In that part of the dngdom, no notes under 5 can be issued. In Scotland and Ireland, they are still issued for 1. In weights and measures, we cannot boast of anything so scientifically formed as the system of France. That country laving been thrown into the revolutionary caldron, had no prejudices to consult, and could make any change, however iolent. Our Legislature had a very different task to perform, and therefore, instead of attacking inveterate habits and cus toms with a violence which could only have defeated its own purpose, wisely endeavoured to produce uniformity, by adopt- ig, not the system which it knew to be most philosophical, but that which it believed to be most practicable. In every system, two standard units are essential one of length, and another of weight. The lineal units of the United Kingdom, as fixed by 5 Geo. IV., c. 74, is the Imperial Standard Yard, measured by the distance between the centres of the two points in the gold studs in the straight brass rod, now in the custody of the clerk of the House of Commons, whereon the words and figures, Standard Yard, 1760, are engraved ; and to make the recovery of it easy, in the event of it being lost, t is declared that its length is to that of a pendulum vibrat ing seconds in the latitude of London, as 36 to 39-1393 inches. This standard yard is declared to be the only standard mea sure of extension, whereby all other measures of extension whatsoever, whether the same be lineal, superficial, or solid, shall be derived. 1 The principal subdivisions are the foot = yard, and the inch = -j^tb. foot. The principal multiples are the pole or perch = 5J yards, the furlong = 220 yards, and the mile = 1760. These lineal measures, squared, give superficial measures, of which the principal are the rood = 40 sq. perches = 1210 sq. yards, and the acre ^= 160 sq. perches = 4840 sq. yards. The standard unit of weight is the Imperial standard Troy pound, made in 1758, and now in the custody of the clerk of the House of Commons. From this, measures of weight are derived. It is subdivided into 12 oz., each oz. into 20 dwts., and each dwt. into 24 grains. To fix the avoirdupois pound, it is declared to be 7000 grains Troy, and subdivided into 16 oz., and each oz. into 16 drams. The multiples avoirdupois are 28 Ib. = 1 qr., 4 qrs. = 1 cwt., and 20 cwt. = 1 ton. The standard measure of capacity is fixed by the standard imperial gallon, containing 10 Ib. avoir dupois of distilled water, at temperature 62 Fah., or 277-274 cubic inches. The corn, wine, and ale gallons have respec tively 268-8231, and 262- of these cubic inches. Finance. To carry on the affairs of such a wondrous fabric as the British Empire, necessarily requires sums of an amount so immense, that it is scarcely possible to form a very definite conception of them, notwithstanding of the minute accuracy of the series of official blue books in which they regularly appear. The separate amounts of revenue and expenditure under their different heads, as well as the total amount, are given below. This vast revenue is generally raised in accord ance with what are understood to be the soundest principles of political economy ; in other words, the taxes, direct and indirect, and the customs which furnish it, are, with few ex ceptions, collected in the least obnoxious form, fall lightest on articles of primary necessity, or the raw materials of manu facture, and heaviest on articles either of luxury, for which the persons using them must be supposed well able to pay; or of noxious consumption, from the use of which the persons un happily addicted to them, ought, if possible, to be deterred by the high price which they are compelled to pay. Almost all the great heads of revenue furnish facts of the deepest interest, and it is difficult to refrain from making several of them the subject of special remark. Nowhere can we find data better fitted to explain the actual position of the country than in the various sources from which its revenue is obtained ; for ex ample, the direct taxation on property and income, showing the vast amount of wealth which must annually be produced, when 7 d. per pound raises a sum of more than 5,000,000 sterling; the inconceivable amount of correspondence, in end less forms of variety, which must be carried on, when a single penny on each letter, after paying all expenses of manage ment, yields a clear surplus of more than 800,000. But our BRITISH EMPIRE 507 BRITISH EMPIRE limits forbid, and nothing more can be done here than to append the following important Tables : Net INCOME and EXPENDITURE of the UNITED KINGDOM. INCOME. Customs Excise Stamps Taxes Tears ending April 6, 1846. 1847. 1848. 1B49. 21,170,860 13,932,277 6,565,365 4,318,903 5,317,245 812,000 100,000 60,132 1850. 19,768,393 13,296,620 7,660,340 4,224,039 5,084,741 791,000 130,000 118,902 21,086,265 13,958,391 7,638,765 4,257,159 5,464,581 856,000 112,000 253,017 19,940,296 13,276,879 7,319,053 4,347,571 5,459,368 932,000 61,000 115,442 20,442,759 14,043,064 6,843,547 4,332,980 5,466,248 823,000 160,000 155,028 Post-office down Lands Small Kevenues 51,074,035 750,859 184,430 53,626,17s 667,644 179,940 51,451,609 455,021 176,127 52,276,782 84,284 656,666 52,266,626 "650,292 Imprests, &c Total Excess of Expend EXPENDITURE. Public Debt Civil List Diplomatic Services Courts of Justice Navy 52,009,324 54,473,762 52,082,757 3,092,285 53,017,732 269,378 52,916,918 52,009,324 54,473,762 55,175,042 53,287,110 52,916,918 28,213,523 174>65 751,810 6,968,917 6,715,409 2,236,507 540,937 3,634,245 646 25,055,202 393,221 175,143 942,754 7.708,294 6,534,699 2,645,646 531,818 4,039,794 "682,000 28,427,232 394,232 169,374 1,054,973 8,157,287 7,357,689 2,726,698 526,788 4,285,769 "975,000 1,100,000 28,489,860 395,670 165,591 1,113,973 7,962,397 6,743,634 3,001,128 503,694 4,521,243 "389,920 28,194,507 396,451 160,360 1,081,462 6,711,724 6,490,475 2,485,387 436,933 4,421,118 Army Ordnance Annuities and Pensions. Miscellaneous Opium Compensation . . Irish Distress Kaffir War Excess of Income 49,628,724 2,380,600 52,009,324 51,708,571 2,765,191 55,175,042 5,3287,110 50,378,417 2,538,501 5t-,473,762 55,175,042153,287,110 52,916,918 At the Revolution in 1688, the national debt was 664,263, and the interest and management 39,855. At the commence ment of the last European war, in 1793, it was 239,350,148; and in 1817, shortly after its termination, 840,850,491. It is now 773,168,316, and the interest and management, as seen above, 28,194,507. People. Under this general head we include not merely their numbers or population, properly so called, but whatever is peculiar in their condition their origin and language, their literature, religion, and manners everything, in short, which throws light on their social position, and is now usually com prehended under the designation of moral and vital statistics. Some of these topics we can barely glance at, and even the most important of them must be discussed in a few brief sentences. In 17 10, the population of England and Wales was 5,066,337; and nearly at the same time, that of Scotland, 1,050,000 ; and that of Ireland, 2,099,094; in all, 7,215,431. The census was first actually taken in 1801 in Great Britain, and in 1821 in Ireland, and ever since in both islands decen nially, with the following results : | SUMMARY ACCOUNT of the POPULATION O/GEKAT BRITAIN and IREI and NAVY, at the periods at which Censuses have beei 1801. 1811. 1021. 1831. 1841. Population sq.m. England Wales 8,331, 434 541,546 9,53S,827 611,788 11,261,437 717,438 13,091,005 806,182 14,995,138 911,603 297-698 122-774 Scotland Army, Is avy, &c Islands in the British Seas.. 1,559,068 470,598 1,805,688 640,500 2,093,456 319,300 89,508 2,365,114 277,017 103,710 2,620,184 193,469 124,040 86-652 Total Ireland 10,942,646 12,59fi,803 14,481,139 6,801,827 16,643,028 7,767,401 18,844,434 8,175,124 251 -449 Total Population of the) United Kingdom ) 21,282,966 24,410,429 27,019,558 221-521 The decennial period having again expired, another census is on the eve of being taken, and a population of at least 29,000,000 is anticipated. The known proportion between births and deaths seems to indicate a greater increase ; but considerable allowance must be made for emigration, which has long been carried on, and is daily attracting more attention as a necessary outlet for a constantly increasing population. This great population, like that of Europe gener ally, belongs to what is called the Caucasian race, which exhibits the human form in its highest phy sical type, and is so superior to all other races, that in whatever quarter of the globe it fixes its seat, it sooner or later becomes dominant. One of the most celebrated varieties of this race is the Anglo- Saxon ; and to it, though with a considerable in termixture of other Gothic races, the great majority of the inhabitants of Great Britain unquestionably belongs. The Anglo-Saxons, however, were not the original owners of the soil. They found the Celts in possession, and drove them before them into the wildest and most inaccessible parts of Great Britain, particularly the N. and W., where they still remain, and prove their separate origin by one of the most marked of national distinctions a peculiar language. Ireland experienced a different fortune, and, with the exception of the N. province, where an Anglo-Saxon colony was established in comparatively recent times, is almost entirely peopled by Celts. The Celtic language is also, though with considerable variations, the vernacular of the Highlands of Scotland and Wales, the W. of Ireland, and the Isle of Man, but it has not, and does not seem destined ever to have, a literature. The Anglo-Saxon or English, on the contrary, promises soon to be, if it is not already, the most widely spoken of European lan guages, and has proved itself inferior to none as a vehicle of thought. Fitted alike for all the great walks of literature, it can move with the dignified step of history, pursue the mazes of metaphy sics, give utterance meet to the finest bursts of forensic, senatorial, and pulpit eloquence, and, un twining all the cords of harmony, sustain poets and other imaginative minds in their loftiest flights. The long list of distinguished men who occupy the highest niches in the temple of Fame, and embodied their conceptions in the Eng lish tongue, of itself indicates that those who speak it are an intellectual race. Nor is this their greatest praise. As a people they have been thought deficient in softer graces, but are un surpassed in the sterner and sublimer virtues. Nowhere are honour and integrity in higher esteem ; nowhere has philan thropy made more costly sacrifices, or gained more glorious triumphs ; nowhere are the final destinies of man held in higher reverence ; and nowhere are the great truths of Christianity more deeply pondered, more thoroughly understood, more cor dially believed, more sedulously practised. This superiority of character is accompanied, as usual, with superiority of social position ; and when men ask, Where is the greatest amount of national prosperity to be found ? the best informed of every country turn round and point, with one accord, to Great Bri tain. There, vast accumulations of wealth have been made, and vast multitudes of families are living in the daily enjoy ment of the ordinary comforts of life. But all pictures have their darker shades, and our prosperity is by no means without alloy. Gigantic evils raise their heads in many quarters, and threaten to ad vance, in spite of all the efforts that are made to stay them. The popula tion is not merely great in proportion to extent of surface, but is much more crowded together, in dense masses, than that of any other country in Eu rope. France, in addition to its me tropolis, has only three towns with a population exceeding 100,000. The United Kingdom, besides its metro polis, has no fewer than nine. All of these contain immense commercial or manufacturing establishments, in which myriads seek their means of subsistence, and live on from day to day, often from the scantiness of their wages un able, and oftener still, from improvidence or some worse habit, unwilling to make any provision for the future. But all trades are more or less fluctuating. Changes occur in the political BRITISH EMPIRE BRITISH EMPIRE world, or markets become glutted, and a sudden revulsion takes place. Want of employment at once dries up the only source from which the first necessaries of life could be ob tained ; disease soon begins to commit its devastations, and the whole fabric of society is shaken to its base. Such things are not of unfrequent occurrence, and threaten results which it is fearful even to contemplate. But apart from these, pau perism has struck its roots deep, and multitudes live solely on the pittance which a legal provision can obtain for them. In regard to many of the poor, such provision, when other means of subsistence fail, is perhaps one of the simplest dictates of justice ; but unhappily the law operates by in flexible rules, and cannot draw any moral distinctions. Po verty in fact is all that it provides for ; and hence, the poor who have become so by unavoidable misfortune, or, it may be, by the practice of a more than ordinary virtue, must stand on the same footing with those who have made themselves poor by the grossest indulgences, or perhaps only pretend po verty in order to procure additional means of continuing them. When such things can be practised (and an effectual preventive still remains to be discovered), pauperism preys on the very vitals of society. A specimen of the state of pauperism in the United Kingdom is given in the following Table for 1846: Total number te Rate in the Rite 1841. InclmliiiK Casual Poor per Cent. Property Rated and Mamten- in..-. of the Poo, Expenditure for Relief, Ac. per Head of Expenditure. & *. d. & S. d. England and Wales... 15,906.741 1,721,350 10-8 67,291,171 5,298,787 1 7 3 1 6| Ireland Scotland 8,175,124 2,620,216 333,019 146,370 4-0 55 13,187,421 9,320,784 667,897 433,915 10-25 11-1 1 14 U 2 19 3J The same causes which foster pauperism tend to foster crime. Of this, too, there has been a great increase in recent times ; but there is reason to hope that the increase is more apparent than real, and that numerous cases which appear in our criminal calendar, indicate not so much an extension of crime, as superior skill in detecting it. The density of the popula tion, and the consequent difficulty often experienced in find ing employment, has led to extensive emigration, which is carried on partly under the auspices of the Government, and has unquestionably been most beneficial, inasmuch as it both relieves the mother country of a load which might ultimately prove too heavy for it, adds greatly to the comforts of the emi grants themselves, and tends to supply the most serious want which many of our colonies experience a want of labour. The extent and direction of emigration from the United King dom is exhibited in the following Table : EXTENT and DIRECTION o/ EMIGRATION //-ant the UNITED KINGDOM 1846 1847 1848 From To Total. England and Wal. Scotland. Ireland. U. States. British America. Australia. Other Countries. 87,611 153,898 176,883 3,427 8,616 11,505 38.813 95,756 69,701 82,839 142,154 188,233 43,4:i9 109,630 31,065 2,277 4,949 23,622 1896 1587 5169 129,851 258,270 248,089 One of the most favourable symptoms of British society, is the general attention which the condition of its humbler classes is now attracting. Both in high places, and elsewhere, clear heads and warm hearts are labouring anxiously to ameliorate it. And it is well that, amidst their devisings, sanitary measures are not forgotten. Our climate is emin ently favourable to health ; but for a long time good evidence of the fact was to be found only in the rural districts. Many of our larger towns, with their stagnant atmosphere, their narrow filthy lanes, and damp, sunless, crowded cellars, were the chosen abodes of disease and pestilence. The improve ments which have been effected, and continue to be vigor ously followed up, already furnish one of the most interesting chapters in the comparatively recent but very important science of vital statistics. In the five years ending 1805, the mortality was one in 41-9; in 1810, one in 44-3 ; in 1830, one in 46; in 1840, one in 44-5; and in 1844, one in 46. In London in 1 685, the mortality, according to Macaulay, was one in 23. It is now one in 40. It is plain, however, that much of a sanitary nature is still required in our larger towns, since Mr. Farr, one of the highest authorities on the subject, states the difference in the duration of life in town and coun try, at not less than 17 years in favour of the latter the pro portion being 55 years in the country, and only 38 in towns. It is not, however, by physical means, important though they be, but by moral means, that permanent improvements of our social system are chiefly to be effected. The first of these, unquestionably, is education. Taken in its highest sense, it includes the whole course of training, by which a human being is raised to the highest perfection of which his nature is susceptible. Such an education is always of diffi cult attainment ; but it is believed that where it meets with congenial minds, the education pursued in our higher schools and colleges is not surpassed in any country in Europe. The description of these celebrated institutions must be re served for the particular divisions of the empire in which they flourish. Here we can only advert, for a moment, to the humbler education which every citizen ought to receive, because, without it, he is to all intents and purposes not a civilized man, but a savage. For a long time it was sup posed that this education was as widely diffused in Britain as in any other country; but the contrary has been proved, and our place among educated nations is not the first. The fact is somewhat humiliating, but it is hoped will soon cease to be a reality. Cir cumstances have hitherto prevented the establish ment of a national system, and Government has in the meantime adopted one of the most effectual modes of stimulating voluntary exertions by rewarding them with additional grants from the Treasury. Education, on a basis so extended that the most scrupulous cannot refuse to receive it, and of a kind so pure and hallowed, that none can receive without being es sentially benefited by it, should be one of the earliest, as it certainly would be one of the noblest achievements of our country. For educational and criminal statistics, see ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, and IRELAND. History. Great Britain, for many ages, consisted of two independent, and almost incessantly hostile kingdoms, which became united in 1603, under one sovereign, in the person of James, previously the sixth of the name in Scotland, and thereafter known as James I. With him the history of the British Empire properly begins. His reign has the merit of having been peaceful, but he was ungainly in person, vulgar in manners, and of a cunning, ungenerous, and selfish nature. His learning, which might have shone like a jewel in his crown, only furnished displays of his pedantry, and his highest princely quality was the very equivocal one of en tertaining extravagant notions of his royal prerogative. His son and successor, Charles I., was a man of a very different stamp. In person, he was every inch a king ; and had he lived in less trying times, the many noble qualities, of which he was undoubtedly pos sessed, might have made his reign both prosperous and bril liant. Unhappily, he inherited his father s notions of prero gative notions which, though they had only furnished the father with a topic on which he was perpetually giving utter ance to a kind of blasphemous bombast, became the occasion of fearful calamities to the son, at once terminating his reign and his life by a bloody tragedy. An interregnum succeeded, in which the chief actor performed his part with unrivalled ability; but with a character so enigmatical, that many are still puzzled where to give him a place whether among saints or hypocrites. He had ruled by a military despotism ; but the sceptre, which even he was scarcely able to wield, dropt at once from the hands of his feeble, but respectable son ; and the Restoration of Charles II. was hailed with loud acclama tions. Society now underwent a sudden change, and, as too often happens, passed from a bad to a worse extreme. Under the pretext of discountenancing hypocrisy, licentiousness gained the ascendant ; and nowhere more completely than at court, where the monarch himself was soon found raising sums for his debaucheries, by pawning his kingdom, and BRITON-FERRY BROADHEMPSTON stooping to the ineffable infamy of bartering its independence, for a pension from such a swaggerer as Louis XIV. The death of Charles IT. made way for his brother, James II., an intolerable bigot, who at once brought matters to a crisis, and was soon beyond the kingdom an ignominious exile. Then followed the glorious Revolution of 1688, which com pleted the Magna Charta by its Bill of Rights, and placed the Constitution on its immovable basis. William and Mary were succeeded by Anne, whose reign is remarkable chiefly for the Act of Union in 1707, and the band of distinguished writers who flourished in it, and have justly procured for it the name of the Augustan Age of English Literature. George I. and George II. followed, both of them adding to limited intellect the greater disadvantage of being foreigners by descent, language, and manners. The reign of each is marked by a rebellion, which aimed to bring back the House of Stuart. They were succeeded by George III., whose blameless private life has endeared his memory to every right-hearted Briton, and whose long reign, though not free from blemishes, is, on the whole, one of the most illustrious in British annals. A visitation of providence withdrew him from public life, and placed him in a state which, notwith standing of the trappings of majesty which still surrounded it, the very meanest of his subjects could not envy. Mean while his place was occupied by his son as Prince Regent, who afterwards succeeded him, under the name of George IV. He looked a king, but can scarcely be said to have lived one. During his reign, the hope which the nation had entertained of an illustrious female succession, was suddenly and griev ously extinguished. The sceptre of the British Empire was again to be wielded by a female, but, in the meantime, it passed into the hands of William IV., whose reign, not other wise much distinguished, is famous for the Reform Act. The period appointed for a female reign now arrived, and our beloved sovereign, Queen Victoria I., ascended the throne. This reign has hitherto been as illustrious as that of the great Maiden Queen, without being tarnished by any of its darker spots. Many years of it have already elapsed, and many more, we trust, are still to come ; but this much can now be said Never could loyalty to the crown be more justly claimed, and never has it been more cordially and universally paid. (Macaulay s History of England; Porter s Progress of the Nation; M Culloch s British Empire; Baines History of the Cotton Manufacture ; Johnston s Physical Atlas ; Statistical Journal ; Parliamentary Returns ; &c.) BRITON-FERRY, par., S. Wales, Glamorgan. P. 718. BRITTANY. See BRETAGNE. BRITWAY, par. Irel. Cork; 4010 ac. Pop. 1212. BRITWELL-SALOME, par. Eng. Oxford ; 730 ac. Pop. 233. BRIVES [anc. Briva Lurretia], a tn. France, dep. Cor- reze, 15 m. S.W. Tulle; agreeably situated amidst vineyards and orchards, 1. bank, Correze, surrounded by a fine avenue of elms ; houses substantially built of stone, but the streets narrow, and the public squares indifferent. It has a college and hospital, a court of first resort and of commerce, an agri cultural society and seminary, and in the vicinity an exten sive cotton-mill. Manufactures: woollens, cotton goods, nut-oil, and wax-candles, brandy, and wax refining. Trade : timber, wine, chestnuts, truffles, truffled poultry, wool, cattle, pigs, &c. Coal is worked extensively in the neighbourhood. Pop. 5983. BRI VIESCA, a tn. Spain, Old Castile, prov. of, and 20 m. N.E. Burgoa. It stands in a plain, 1. bank, Oca, and is well built ; houses generally of two stories, and streets straight, spacious, clean, and well paved. It has two parish churches, both handsome buildings ; a townhouse, and three hospitals ; is well supplied with water, part of which is furnished by a finely ornamented fountain. The manufactures are of no consequence; but corn-mills are numerous, and there is a considerable trade in grain. Pop. 2064. BRIVIO, a walled tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 17 m. E.S.E. Como, r. bank, Adda; commanded by a castle, and having a handsome parish church, and some chapels. Manufactures: silk and linen fabrics, lace, and paper. Pop. 1930. BRIXEN, a tn. Austria, Tyrol, circle, Schwatz, gov. of, and 40 m. S. by E. Innsbruck ; in a narrow valley, near the confluence of the Rienz with the Eisach. The town is regu larly built ; but there is little in it deserving of notice, except the cathedral, which has four towers, and a fa$ade of white marble. Brixen is the seat of a bishop, and has an Episcopal palace, a townhouse, prison, hospital, and several convents. Among the educational institutions are a gymnasium, with 200 students ; and a normal school. Some silk is manu factured. Pop. 3600. BRIXHAM, a market tn., seaport, and par. England, co. Devon. The TOWN is prettily situated on the English Channel, occupying the sides of two hills, a little S. from Berry Head, the S. point of Torbay, and 23 m. S. Exeter ; lat. 50 23 N. ; Ion. 3 30 W. It is divided into two parts, called Upper and Lower Brixham, the former comprising a long straggling street. The generality of the older houses are very indifferent buildings; but some of those of more recent erection are sufficiently respectable. The shops are lighted with gas, but not the streets. There are two churches the parish church, a large ancient structure, in the per pendicular style ; a chapel of ease, and Wesleyan, Indepen dent, and Baptist chapels; also, a chapel belonging to the Plymouth Brethren ; a national and two private schools, several benefit and benevolent societies, and other charities. The trade of Brixham is chiefly in fish, which is carried on to a great extent, London, Bath, and Bristol receiving sup plies from this place. The port possesses also a number of vessels, engaged in the coasting and foreign trade ; those in the latter plying chiefly to the Mediterranean. Brixham is celebrated in history as the place where the Prince of Orange, afterwards William III., landed, November 4, 1688. Pop. (1851), 5627. Area of par. 5210 ac. Pop. (1841), 5684. BRIXTON, three pars. Eng. : 1, Par. Devon; 3060 ac. Pop. 823. 2, Par. Isle of Wight; 2700 ac. Pop. 710. 3, Brixton-Deverill, par. Wilts; 2690 ac. Pop. 197. BRIXTON, a vil. England, co. Surrey, forming an agreeable suburb of London, 3 m. S.S.W. St. Paul s. It con sists of North Brixton, aud Brixton Hill, composed of neat, well-built houses, extending about 2 m. along either side the road from Kennington to Streatham, with numerous handsome detached villas. In the village and district are three Epis copal and three Dissenting places of worship, a house of correction for the county, St. Anne s asylum, an elegant brick edifice, where 200 boys and 100 girls are maintained and edu cated ; Trinity asylum for aged females, and the Reform alms- houses. Pop. 10,175. BRIXWORTH, par. Eng. Xorthamp. ; 3410 ac. P. 1202. BRIZINA, or BERIZINA, a vil. Algeria, in the Sahara, 256 m. S.W. Algiers; lat. 33 32 N.; Ion. 45 E. It contains about 150 houses, begirt with a wall ; and has a mosque, and schools. The people spin arid weave wool, make tolerable gunpowder, and are good armourers, smiths, farriers, &c. Saltpetre abounds in the environs, while sulphur is ob tained from the Beni Mzab. A good deal of fruit is grown, but not much grain. The neighbouring hills contain exten sive beds of gypsum. BROACH. See BAROACH. BROAD BAY, a bay, Scotland, N.E. side isl. Lewis, having Keep Head on the N. W. of its entrance, and Champan Head on the S.E. Its length, inland, is about 7 m.; breadth varying from 3 to 4 m.; lat. 58 20 N.; Ion. 6 10 W. BROAD SOUND, an extensive bay, N.E. coast, Aus tralia, in lat. (entrance) 22 22 N. ; Ion. 149 30 E. It runs about 50 m. into the land, in a S.S.E. direction, measuring from the parallel given above, and terminating in a point at its S. extremity, where it is encompassed by high, barren hills, with craggy tops. BROAD CHALK, par. Eng. Wilts ; 8380 ac. Pop. 775. BROAD-CLIST, par. Eng. Devon ; 10,270 ac. P. 2407. BROADFIELD, par. Eng. Herts; 620 ac. Pop. 6. BROADFORD, a small vil. Scotland, Isle of Skye, 15 m. S.W. Portree ; with a church and school-house. A market is held annually. Pop. 80. BROADHAVEN, a bay, N.W. coast, Ireland, co. Mayo, extending from Erris Head on the W., to Kid Island on the E., 5J m. The anchorage is good, and the water sufficiently deep ; but in N. winds there is only room for two or three vessels to ride in safety. BROADHEMBURY, par. Eng. Devon; 5950 ao. P.851. BROADHEMPSTON, par. Eng. Devon ; 2140 ac. Pop. 747. BROAU-HINTON 510 BKOEK-1N WATERLAND BROAD-HINTON, par. Eng. Wilts ; 4670 ac. P. 670. BROADMAYNE, par. Eng. Dorset ; 2540 ac. Pop. 490. BROADOAK, par. Eng. Cornwall; 3240 ac. Pop. 303. BROADSTAIRS, a small seaport and hamlet, England, oo. Kent, Isle of Tlianet, 2 in. N.N.E. Ramsgate ; lat. 51 23 N.; Ion. 1 26 E. ; situated on a slope, facing the E. It consists of four principal streets, and a handsome terrace. The thoroughfares are straight and spacious, and though un- paved, are well kept. The houses are in general good ; the larger of brick, the others of flint. Water, obtained from deep wells, is abundant. It contains four chapels one chapel of ease, one Wesleyan, and one Baptist, and an ancient chapel, called the chapel of the Virgin, occupied from time to time by various denominations. There are four principal schools, and several others ; a Dorcas society, and various other chari ties. The town has of late years become a fashionable water ing-place, and is provided with suitable accommodation for visitors, including well furnished lodging-houses, a hotel, news and assembly rooms, public libraries, and hot and cold baths. The only trade of the place is in fish. Pop. 1457. BROAD WAS, par. Eng. Worcester ; 1000 ac. Pop. 326. BROADWATER, par. Eng. Sussex; 2240 ac. P. 5345. BROADWAY, three pars. Eng.: 1, par. Dorset; 1000 ac. Pop. 498. 2, par. Somerset; 1830 ac. Pop. 570. 3, par. Worcester; -1SOO ac. Pop. 1687. BROADWELL, two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Gloucester; 1 000 ac. Pop. 345. 2, par. Oxford ; 5990 ac. Pop. 1051. BROAD-WINDSOR, par. Eng. Dorset ; 7110 ac. Pop. 1661. BROADWOOD-KELLY, par. Eng. Devon; 2190 ac. Pop. 471. BROADWOODWIDGER, par. Eng. Devon ; 7350 ac. Pop. 923. BROBURY, par. Eng. Hereford; 440 ac. Pop. 71. BROCKDISH, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 1080 ac. Pop. 466. BROCKENHURST, par. Eng. Hants; 2980 ac. P. 928. BROCKEN, or BLOCKSBERG [Latin, Bructerus Mons], a. mountain, Prussian Saxony, gov. Magdeburg, about 20 m. W.S.W. Halberstadt. It is the culminating point of the Harz Mountains, and 3791 ft. high. The summit and nucleus of the mountain are granite, around which the sedimentary rocks lie, enveloping it like a mantle. An inn, called the Broclcenluius, in which the host constantly resides, occupies its loftiest summit. Close to the inn is a tower of massy timber, 50 ft. high, and about 1 mile from it is a cleft called the ScJineeloch, from which the snow scarcely ever disappears. Owing to the hazes which prevail, the view, which is said to be fine, and very extensive, can seldom be seen to advantage. The mountain is said to be haunted, and is the cradle of nu merous fabulous legends, which are still well known throughout Germany. One cause of their prevalence is a curious natural phenomenon, called the Spectre of the Brocken, occasionally seen at sunset or sunrise, when the mists rise perpendicularly out of the valley opposite to the sun, and at the same time leave the mountain-top clear. Every object reflected from this wall of vapour is magnified. The whole mountain be comes of larger dimensions, the inn is converted into a palace, and human beings appear giants. At the foot of the moun tain the Bode, Use, Ocker, and Holzemme take their rise. BROCKFORD-AND-WiTHERiNGSET, par. Eng. Suffolk ; 3980 ac. Pop. 1065. BROCKHAGEN, a vil. Prussia, prov. Westphalia, gov. of, and 33 m. S.W. Minden. There is a distillery; and a {jood deal of yarn is spun. In the neighbourhood, hops are extensively cultivated. Pop. 2184. BROCKHALL, par. Eng. Northampton ; 720 ac. P. 59. BROCKHAMPTON, par. Eng. Hereford; 620 ac. P. 132. BROCKLESBY, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 3860 ac. Pop. 229. BROCKLEY, two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Somerset; 910ac. Pop. 171. 2, par. Suffolk; 1080 nc. Pop. 380. BROCKTHROP, par. Eng. Gloucester; HOOac. P. 169. BROCKV1LLE, a tn. Upper Canada, co. Leeds, l.bank, St. Lawrence, 48 m. E.N.E. Kingston. It is a handsome town, and lies on a limestone bed, which supplies the mate rial of which the houses are built. It has a court-house, .jail, and six churches Presbyterian, Episcopal, Methodist, Baptist, Congregational, and R. Catholic, all built of stone. Tanning, brewing, smithy work, waggon-making, and various other handicrafts, are carried on. Granite is obtained in the neighbourhood. The steamboats from Montreal to Kingston call here. Pop. (1852), 3246. BROCK WORTH, par. Eng. Gloucester ; 2360 ac. P. 409. BROD, or BROOD. 1, A fortified tn. Austria, gov. of same name, military frontier of Sclavonia, 21 m. S.E. Posega, 1. bank, Save, opposite the Turkish town of Brod. It carries on an active trade with Bosnia, whence it receives raw hides, woollens, and cottons. Pop. 2470. The REGIMENT, or DISTRICT of Brod, extends over 576 geo. sq. m., with a pop. of 81,200. 2, Brod, or Ungarisch-Brod, a tn. Austria, Moravia, gov. Briinn, circle of, and 9 m. E. Hradisch, r. bank, Olsawa. It is walled, has a handsome parish church, a Do minican cloister, which has existed since 1337; and a town- house. It has also manufactures of cloths, and a good trade in fruits and hides. Pop. 3369. 3, Brod [Bohemian, Cesty Brod], a tn. Bohemia, circle, Kaurzim, cap. lordship of same name ; on the Zembra, and on the Olmiitz and Bo hemian Railway, 19m. E. Prague. It is surrounded with walls, in which are three gates ; and contains two churches and a chapel, one of them a deanery church; with fine old monuments, a townhouse, school, &c. It is well situated for trade, but the inhabitants live chiefly by agriculture and weaving. Pop. 1877. 4, Brod (Deutsch), [Bohemian, Niemeczky], a tn. Bohemia, circle of, and 22 m. S.S.E. Czaslau, on the Zazawa ; with a gymnasium and custom-house. Pop. 3938. 5, Brod, a tn. Turkey in Europe, prov. Bosnia, r. bank, Save, opposite Brod in Sclavonia, 90 m. N.N.W. Bosna-serai. It is defended by a castle, and is a commercial untrepot. Many other places in Central Europe also bear the name of BROD. BRODSWORTH, par. Eng. York, W. Riding; 3170 ac. Pop. 467. BRODY, a tn. Austria, N.E. part of Galicia, gov. of, and 50 m. E.N.E. Lemberg, on the Russian frontier; lat. 50 7 N.; lat. 25 18 E. ; situated on a swampy plain. It is ill built and dirty, and the houses mostly of wood. It has been called the German Jerusalem, from the large num ber of resident Jews, who constitute three-fourths of the whole population. It has several squares, three Greek churches, a R. Catholic church, several synagogues, a cham ber of commerce, court of exchange, a convent of the Sisters of Charity, a great many Jewish and other schools and semin aries, a Jewish hospital, a theatre, and a large palace belong ing to the Potocki family. Since 1779, it has been a free commercial town, having its own magistrates and courts of justice, and its imports and exports exempted from all duties. It is the first town in Galicia in commercial importance, and the second in population. The transit trade with Poland, Moldavia, Wallachia, Turkey, and the S. parts of Russia, is very extensive. The imports from the latter have lately increased nearly twofold, but the exports have fallen off in more than the same proportion. The trade of the town is almost exclusively in the hands of the Jews, and consists chiefly in the export of horses, cattle, wax, honey, tallow, hides, leather, isinglass, aniseed, dried fruits, &c., and in the import of wax, honey, tallow, raw hides, wool, caviare, &c., from Russia, and of jewellery, pearls, colonial produce, and manufactured goods, silks, cloths, furs, and particularly hard ware. It has tanneries and linen manufactures ; and its markets are numerously attended, especially that which takes place four weeks after the Leipzig fair, to which large quan tities of goods from the latter are transferred, and are bought up chiefly by Russian merchants. Pop. (1846), 17,789. BROEK-iN- WATERLAND, a vil. Holland, prov. N. Hol land, about half-way betwixt Amsterdam and Edam, on a brook, from which it is supposed to take its name, called the Aa or Ee, and placed in the middle of four lakes or meres. Broek, though otherwise an inconsiderable place, is renowned for the devotion of its inhabitants to neatness and cleanliness. The houses are very irregularly placed, some projecting, others retiring, but all built of wood, and painted white or blue, so as to appear as if newly erected. The most sedulous attention is paid to the state of the streets ; no smoking is allowed, as the ashes of the tobacco might defile them. The war with dirt is carried on incessantly, within as well as without. Each house has generally two kitchens, the smaller kept for the purpose of preserving the larger from the. disarrangement and soiling of its utensils. Each house has an apartment also kept for the sole purpose of being cleaned, except on the occ- BROKEN BAY 511 BROOKLAND sion of a baptism, marriage, or funeral. Each also has two outer doors, of which one, in consequence of the outer steps to it being removed, is some feet raised above the ground, and is never used by any member of the family but on three occasions, baptism, marriage, and burial. The gardens and flower-plots equally attest the horror in which slovenliness and dirt are held by their owners, and attract many strangers, who come to admire the taste and attention bestowed on them. There is but one church, the Reformed, a highly ornamented, and carefully preserved building, with a high square tower passing into an octagon, a curious painted glass window, and an elaborately carved pulpit. The court-house is on the N. side of the village, and formerly served also for the school ; but being found much too small, a large and handsome school-house was built in 1826, and is attended by 170 scholars. There is also an orphan-house. Pop. of the parish nearly 1200, all Protestants, excepting 30 R. Catholics, and 10 Jews. BROKEN BAY, Australia, New S. Wales, between the counties of Northumberland and Cumberland, having the former N., and the latter S.; 18 m. N.E. Port Jackson; lat. 34 15 S.; Ion. 151 20 E. BROKENBOROUGH, a par. England, Wilts; 2590 ac. Pop. 429. BROKEN ISLAND. 1, An isl. China, off the N.W. extremity of isl. Chusan, with which it is connected at low water ; it is about 700 ft. high, and is steep on all sides, ex cepting that next the island just named. 2, An isl., S. Pacific Ocean, N. coast, Papua; lat. 2 40 S.; Ion. 134 50 E. (R.) 3, A group of islands, sometimes called Borongo or Bo- longo islands, Bay of Bengal, coast of Aracan ; they are three in number, and are situated immediately to the S. of Aracan river. They are long and narrow, mountainous, woody, and rugged, without any appearance of inhabitants or cultivation ; and the whole coast of Aracan, both to the N. and S. of them, has a similar dreary and repulsive aspect. BROMBERG, a tn. Prussia, prov. of, and 69 m. N.E. Posen, cap. gov. and circle of same name, on the Braa, 6 m. W. its confluence with the Vistula. It is well built, has three suburbs, and contains three churches, a monastery, a convent, and several educational and charitable establishments. It has a large sugar-refinery, several tobacco and chicory manu factories, several flour and oil mills, potteries, and limekilns ; also a vinegar-work, several distilleries, and breweries. It has likewise a considerable trade in grain and wine, for which its situation on the Bromberg Canal gives it great advantages. For a short time under Napoleon, Bromberg was restored to the Poles, and formed the capital of a department of the same name. The GOVERNMENT, area, 3437 geo. sq. m., consists generally of an extensive plain with a double slope, one E., belonging to the basin of the Vistula, and the other S. W., send ing its waters, by the Netze and other streams, into the Oder. The soil is of a middling description, but agriculture, owing more to the industry of the inhabitants than to their natural advantages, has made considerable progress. All the ordi nary crops of grain are raised. The potatoes are excellent. The chief manufactures are woollen, linen, leather, and paper. There are also several saltpetre-works and sugar-refineries. The breweries and distilleries are numerous. Pop. of gov. (1846), 463,969; of circle, 57,520; of tn. 11,282. BROMBOROUGH, par. Eng. Chester; 2250 ac. P. 573. BROMESWELL, par. Eng. Suffolk ; 3060 ac. Pop. 200. BROMFTELD, two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Cumberland; 12,850 ac. Pop. 2312. 2, par. Salop ; 9330 ac. Pop. 655. BROMHAM, two pars. Eng. : 1, par. Bedford ; 1910 ac. Pop. 314. 2, par. Wilts; 3300 ac. Pop. 1558. BROMLEY, a small market tn. and par. England, co. Kent. The town lies 10 m. S.S.E. London, on the N. side of the Ravensbourne, in the neighbourhood of the Croydon Canal and Railway, and consists chiefly of a long street of well-built houses, with an alms-house for old people, and a well-endowed hospital for 40 widows of clergymen. In the neighbourhood is the palace of the Bishop of Rochester; area of par. 4630 ac. Pop. 4325. BROMLEY, five pars. Eng. : 1, Bromley Abbotts, par. Stafford; 8360 ac. Pop. 1508. 2, Bromley (Great), par. Essex; 3050 ac. Pop. 738. 3, Bromley (Little), par. Essex ; 2260 ac. Pop. 426. 4, Bromley (King s), par. Stafford ; 3370 ac. Pop. 718. 5, Bromley (St. Leonard s), par. Middle sex; 620 ac. Pop. 6154. BROMPTON, a W. suburb of London, co. Middlesex, 1 m. W. Hyde Park corner, well built, lighted with gas, and supplied with water. It has a handsome church, in the later English style ; a chapel of ease, a meeting-house for Inde pendents, a school, and an elegant hospital for consumptive patients. The land in the neighbourhood is laid out chiefly as nursery grounds. Pop. 9514. 2, A vil. England, co. York, N. Riding, on a plain, about 2 m. N.N.E. Northaller- ton, near the Great North of England Railway. The houses are chiefly of brick, and very mean. It contains a chapel of ease, in the Gothic style, and one school. The battle of the Standard was fought hero, 1138. Pop. 1535. BROMPTON, four pars. England:!, par. York, N. Riding; 10,180 ac. Pop. 1534. 2, Brompton-Patrick, par. York, N. Riding ; 5560 ac. Pop. 1130. 3, Brompton-Balph, par. Somerset ; 2800 ac. Pop. 492. 4, Brompton-Begis, par. Somerset; 8810 ac. Pop. 875. BROMSBERROW.par.Eng.Gloucester; 1760ac. P.233. BROMSEBRO, a hamlet, Sweden, Ian of, and 27 m. S.S.W. Kalmar, on the Broraseback, here crossed by a bridge, and which here falls into the sea. It lies at the boundary, between the ancient provinces of Bleking and Smaland, and is celebrated for the treaties entered into here by the re presentatives of Sweden and Denmark in 1541, 1641, and 1645. BEOMWICH (WEST), par. Eng. Stafford; 5380 ac. Pop. 26,121. BROMYARD, a small market tn. and par. England, co. Hereford. The town is 13 m. N.E. Hereford, r. bank, Frome, and consists of one principal street, crooked, and indifferently kept ; houses in general tolerably well built, partly of stone, and partly of brick ; ill supplied vrith water. The church is a fine old structure. The other places of worship are an Independent chapel, a Primitive Methodist chapel, and a Quaker meeting-house. There are, in all, 10 schools, of which the most important are the charity school, established by the Goldsmiths Company, a national school for girls, and a British school for boys. Area of par. 9310ac. Pop. 2927, and decreasing. BEONDOLO, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. of, and 18 m. S. Venice, on the S. of the Isle of Lido, and the mouth of Bacchiglione. It is fortified, and was once a flourishing town, standing at the mouth of the Adige, which has changed its course, and made a new embouchure a little to the S. Owing to its low situation, Brondolo is very unhealthy. The har bour is capacious, but shallow. Two wooden bridges connect Brondolo with Chioggia. BRONGWYN, par., S. Wales, Cardigan. Pop. 377. BRONI, a tn. Sardinian States, Piedmont, gov. Alessan dria, 11 m. S.E. Pavia. Near it is the castle of Broni, famous for the victory gained by Prince Eugene over the French in 1703. Pop. 2500. BRONNITZY, a tn. Russia, gov. of, and 30 m. S.E. Moscow, on the Msta. It stands on the site of the ancient Sclavonic town of Kholmograd, often mentioned in Russian chronicles, and famous for a battle fought, in 1614, between the Russians and Swedes. In the neighbourhood is a hill of considerable height, in the shape of a sugar loaf, and crowned by a church, built on the ruins of a heathen temple, which possessed an oracle in such repute, that it was repeatedly consulted in person by the rulers of the North. Pop. about 2000. BRONTE, a tn. Sicily, Val di Catania, 22 m. N.N.W. Catania, W. base of Mount Etna. It has several churches, convents, and a seminary; manufactures of woollen cloth an>l paper, and some trade in wine, oil, silk, grain, almonds, &c., produced in the neighbouring district. Lord Nelson was created Duke of Bronte in 1799. Pop. 8870. BROOANG, or BURENDO PASS, a pass through the Himalaya Mountains, on the course of the Sutlej, 15,095 ft. above the level of the sea; lat. 31 23 N.; Ion. 78 12 E. The country in the neighbourhood is extremely rugged ; and, from the top of the pass, a magnificent view is obtained of the peaks of the Himalaya, towering 6000 or 7000 ft. above. BROOK, four pars. Eng. : 1, par. Kent ; 540 ac. Pop. 158. 2, par. Hants; 750 ac. Pop. 150. 3, par. Norfolk; 2060 ac. Pop. 756. 4, par. Rutland; 1560 ac. Pop. 113. BROOK ESBY, par. Eng. Leicester; 640 ac. Pop. 20. BROOKLAND, par. Eng. Kent; 1500 ac. Pop. 462. BROOKLYN BKOUGH BROOKLYN, a city, U. States, on Long Island, New York, separated from the city of New York by the narrow channel called East Ri ver. It is properly a suburb of that city, and is a place of great business. It is regularly built, the streets straight and wide, and many of the houses of a very superior description. In consequence of its pleasant and health ful situation, it has become a favourite place of residence with many of the merchants of New York, with which it is con nected by four steam ferries, the trip being performed in about five minutes. It contains a jail, a handsome building of free stone ; 30 churches, and the lyceum, a fine granite structure, in which there is a spacious lecture-room ; 1 9 academies, and 38 schools. The city library contains 3000 volumes, and has j a spacious reading-room. The U. States navy-yard, covering ; 40 acres of ground, is in the E. part of the town, in Wallabout Bay. Connected with this establishment is the U. States naval lyceum, a nourishing institution, with a valuable library and museum. Half a mile E. of the navy- yard is the naval hospital, occupying a commanding eminence, and surrounded by 33 acres of cultivated ground, enclosed by a brick wall. Brooklyn has extensive manufactories of cotton, woollen, glass, oil, carpets, saddles, and harness, chains, cables, and engines, besides five distilleries, and one brewery. Pop. (1830), 12,042; (1840), 36,233; (1845), 59,966; (1850), 96,850. BROOKO, or BHUKO, a territory, N.W. Africa, in the S.E. part of Senegambia, between the Boki and Kokoro rivers, two of the head streams of the Senegal. It is of small extent, not exceeding 50 or 60 m. in length, from N.W. to S.E., and about 40 in breadth; and is intersected by lat. 1330 N.; and Ion. 10 30 W. BROOM (LOCH), a bay, N.W. coast, Scotland, co. Ross, having Priest and Summer Islands at its entrance, and Martin Island at its head. Inland from the head of the bay extends a narrow salt-water lake, at the head of which is the small village of Lochbroom. BROOME, three pars. Eng. : 1, par. Worcester; 550 ac. Pop. 129. 2, par. Norfolk; 1470 ac. Pop. 610. 3, par. Suffolk ; 1650 ac. Pop. 328. BROOMFIELD, three pars. Eng. : 1, par. Essex; 1980 ac. Pop. 820. 2, par. Kent ; 1000 ac. Pop. 146. 3, par. Somerset ; 4050 ac. Pop. 497. BROOMHILL, par. Eng. Kent; 3580 ac. Pop. 121. BROOMSGROVE, or BROMSGROVE, a market tn. and par. England, co. Worcester. The town is pleasantly situated on a plain, 13 m. S.W. Birmingham, on the Birmingham and Bristol Railway, 1. bank, Sal warp, and consists of one principal street, and some diverging lanes, the former stretching along the Birmingham and Worcester turnpike road. It is well paved, abundantly supplied with water, and lighted with gas. The houses are in general well built, and mostly of brick, intermingled with a few ancient wood framed edifices, orna mented with black and white stripes. In the centre of the town is the townhall, a neat and commodious, though unpre tending building. The parish church, on an eminence in the centre of the town, is an ancient and handsome structure, in the decorated English style, with a tower 189 ft. high. The other places of worship are, one Wesleyan chapel, one Baptist, one Independent, and one R. Catholic chapel. Broornsgrove has a grammar and a national school, some alms-houses, and several minor charities, and a literary and scientific institu tion, lately established. Buttons, nails, and hooks are manu factured here to a considerable extent; area of par. 11 ,230 ac. Pop. 10,308. (Local Correspondent.) BROOS, or SZASZVAROS, a market tn . Austria, Transyl vania, country of the Saxons, cap. of Brooser Stuhl, 45 m. W. by N. Hermannstadt, on an affluent of the Maros. It is well built, has a spacious castle, a R. Catholic, and two Reformed churches, and a gymnasium. The inhabitants are mostly employed in agricultural pursuits. Pop. 3300. The BROOSER STUHL, area, 128 geo. sq. m., is traversed by the Maros, and is, for the most part, fertile in corn and fruit. Pop. 20,400. BROQUE (LA), a vil. France, dep. Vosges, 24 m. from St. Die; cotton-spinning is carried on here. Pop. 1350. BROSELEY, a market tn. and par. England, co. Salop. The town is 13 m. S.E. Shrewsbury, on the summit of a hill, which rises abruptly from the Severn, and consists chiefly of one long street, straight, and well kept ; but the other parts of the town are extremely irregular. The older houses arc- low, and inconvenient, but the modern are generally well built and commodious, principally of brick. It is lighted with gas, but ill supplied with water. In the centre of the town is the townhall, a handsome brick building, with the market-place underneath. The church, which is situated at the N.E. end of the town, is a beautiful structure, of white brick, in the Gothic style. The other places of worship are two Baptist chapels, one Wesleyan, one Primitive Methodist, and one Independent chapel ; and the schools are, a church day free school, and several other day schools. Broseley has long been, and still is, noted for the manufacture of glazed tobacco pipes, tiles, and firebricks. In its vicinity are extensive iron stone and coal mines ; area of par. 1550 ac. Pop. 4829. (Local Correspondent.) BROSNA, par. Irel. Kerry; 11,960 ac. Pop. 2871. BROTERODE, a tn. Hesse-Cassel, about 12 m. S.W. Gotha, with a handsome church, several extensive ironworks, several mills, and an active trade in articles of iron, steel, and wood ; also in tobacco, leather, and wine. Pop. 2359. BROTHERS (THE). 1, Two small islands, Bay of Bengal, Andaman group, about 10 m N.E. Little Andaman ; lat. 11 V N.; Ion. 92 41 E. (R.) 2, Two islands, Bay of Bengal, near the N.W. entrance to the Strait of Malacca, off the S. end of the island of Salang or Junkseylon, W. coast, Lower Siam ; they are small, but of considerable height ; lat. 7 31 N.; Ion. 98 20 E. (R.) 3, Two small islands, covered with wood, in the Strait of. Malacca, 4 or 5 m. from each other ; the most N. is in lat. 3 24 N.; Ion. 99 49 E. They are also called, respectively, Pulo Pandan or Pandang, and Salanama; the latter is the larger. 4, Three islands, in the Durian or Duryan Strait, at the S.E. entrance to the Malacca Strait; the most S., the largest and highest, is in lat. 32 N. > Ion. 103 48 E. 5, Two small islands, Java Sea, on the Sumatra coast, near the N.E. entrance to the Strait of Sunda. The most N. is in lat. 5 9 30" S.; Ion. 1065 E. They are near to each other, are covered with trees, and may be seen from a distance of 18 or 20 m. They are united by a reef, said to be nearly dry at low water. 6, Four high, small, round islands, covered with trees, 6 to 10 m. S.E. Malacca Road. 7, Two small islands, in the Chinese Sea, off the E. coast of China; lat. 23 32 N. ; Ion. 1 17 42 E. (R.) 8, Two islands, China Sea, 70 in. N.W. Cape Camboja, or Cambodia; lat. 8 35 N. ; Ion. 106 15 E. (R.) The most W. is a barren rock, and has high breakers on its E. side during blowing weather ; the most E. is a high round islet, with trees on its summit. 9, Two islands, China Sea, Galong Bay, island Hainan, S. coast. The E. Brother is in lat. 18 11 3" N. ; Ion. 109 41 E. (R.) 10, Two small islands, N. Atlantic Ocean, W. coast, Africa, Bight of Biafra ; lat. 1 21 1" N. ; Ion. 7 17 5" W. (R.) 11, Two small islands, E. coast, China, the Tchin-San of the Chinese ; lat. 30 10 N. ; Ion. 122 56 6" E. (R.) 12, Two small islands, Arabian Sea, at the entrance to the sea of Bab-el-Mandeb, off the S.W. coast of the island of Socotra, about 110 m. N.E. Ras-Asser, or Cape Guardafui ; lat. 12 7 N.; Ion 53 17 E. (R.) ; sometimes called Durjy. 13, Two small islands, near the head of the Red Sea, off Kossier, in Egypt; lat. 26 21 N.; Ion. 34 49 E. 14, Two islands, Grecian Archipelago; lat. 35 49 N. ; Ion. 26 29 E. (R.) 15, Two islands, Hudson s Bay, British N. America; lat. 58 42 N. ; Ion. 80 32 W. (R.) BROTHERTON, par. Eng. York, W. Riding; 2120 ac. Pop. 1744. BROTTON, par. Eng. York, N. Riding ; 3560 ac. P. 468. BROU, a tn. France, dep. Eure-et- Loire, 22 m. S.W. Chartres, on the Ozanne. It has manufactures of linens, serges, bombazines, hackles, bricks and tiles, and some trade in wool and grain. Pop. 2047. BROUAGE, a maritime tn. France, and fortification of the third class, dep. Charente Inferieure, 4 m. N. Mareunes. Excellent salt is obtained from the extensive marshes around the town, and constitutes the main article of commerce. Brouage was formerly an important town, aryl had 400 houses, and was fortified by Cardinal Richelieu ; but the un- healthiness of the place caused it to be abandoned as an official station in 1730, when the public oifices were removed to Marennes. Pop. 250. BROUGH, a small market tn. and par. England, co. West morland. The tn. lies 23 m. N.E. Kendal ; on a plain. It consists chiefly of one long, straight street ; houses of stone. BROUGHAM 513 KKUCK but very indifferently built; amply supplied with water. It contains a church, a Baptist and Wesleyan chapel ; has no trade, nor manufactures, but lead and coal mines in the vicinity give employment to some of the inhabitants. In the forest of Stainmore, in this neighbourhood, was the cross which marked the boundaries of England and Scotland, erected by William the Conqueror, and Malcolm the Scotch King. Pop. of tn. 899. Area of par. 22,650 ac. ; pop. 1536. BROUGHAM, par. Eng. Westmorland ; 6580ac. P. 249. BROUGHTON, seventeen pars. Eng.: 1, par. Bucks; 1020 ac. Pop. 168. 2, par. Huntingdon; 2950 ac. Pop. 363. 3, par. Lancaster; 2570 ac. Pop. 695. 4, par. Lincoln; 7880 ac. Pop. 913. 5, par. Northampton ; 2560 ac. Pop. 593. 6, par. Oxford; 1950 ac. Pop. 629. 7, par. Salop; 1120 ac. Pop. 188. 8, par. Hants; 4500 ac. Pop. 1009. 9, Broughton-m-Aredale, par. York, W. Riding; 3950 ac. Pop. 407. 10, Broughton-Astleif, par. Leicester; 1930 ac. Pop. 728. 11, Broughton- Brant, par. Lincoln; 4490 ac. Pop. 650. 12, Broughton Church and Sapperton, par. Derby; 2380 ac. Pop. 652. 13, Sroughton-Gi/Tord, par. Wilts; 1(540 ac. Pop. 741. 14, Brougliton-Hacl-ett, par. Worcester ; 390 ac. Pop. 154. 15, Broughton (Nether), par. Leicester; 2 1 10 ac. Pop. 412. 1 6, Broughton- Foggs, par. Oxford ; 360 ac. Pop. 151. 17, Broughton-Sulney, par. Notts; 1600 ac. Pop. 371. BROUGHTON, GLENHOLM, and KILBUCHO, par. Scot. Peebles ; 20,000 ac. Pop. 764. BROUGHTON-IN-FURNESS, a market tn. England, co. Lancaster ; on a gentle declivity, 23 m. N. W. Lancaster, in the form of a square, with a lofty obelisk in the centre. The spinning of woollen yarn was formerly the principal occupa tion of the inhabitants ; but the making of hoops is now their chief employment. In the neighbourhood are several slate quarries, and numerous iron and copper mines. The weekly market is on Wednesday; and fairs are held in April and August, for horned cattle, arid in October for cattle and sheep. The Furness Railway has a station at the town. Fop. 1250. BROUGHTON S ARCHIPELAGO, a range of islands, rocky islets, and rocks, N. Pacific, N. of Vancouver s Island, W. coast of N. America ; so called from an Englishman, who discovered them in 1790; lat. 50 33 to 51 N. BROUGHTY- FERRY, a marine vil. and watering- place, Scotland, co. Forfar, N. shore of the estuary of the Tay, 3 m. E. Dundee; on the Edinburgh and Northern Railway, at the ferry across the Tay, from Ferry-port-on-Craig. It consists of four principal streets, stretching E. and W., and four others crossing them at right angles. They are, with one exception, straight ; and are all clean, but most of them unpaved, or only macadamized, supplied, however, with con venient foot-paths. The houses are of stone, and gener ally well built, while many of those of modern erection are extremely neat and tasteful. Handsome villas, in various styles of architecture, but chiefly Elizabethan, belonging to Dundee merchants and manufacturers, are also numerous. The village is lighted with gas, and tolerably supplied with water. There are four places of worship a chapel of ease, belonging to the Established church; a Free church, with a steeple, erected in 1844; a United Presbyterian, and Epis copal chapels, the former a neat Gothic structure. The schools are one under the auspices of the Established church ; another under that of the Free church ; an infant and two private schools, well attended. The only manufacture carried on here is that of coarse linens, in which about 30 weavers are employed. Nor do the inhabitants desire that any other should be established, it being a condition in many of the feus that no manufacturing works be erected. A great portion of the working population is employed in fishing, for supplying the Dundee market. At the E. extremity of the village, on a rocky eminence projecting into the sea, stands the old castle of Broughty, when or by whom built is unknown. (Local Correspondent.} BROUWERSHAVEN, a tn. Holland, prov. Zeeland, about 6 m. N. Zieriksee, N. shore of isl. Schouwen. The five gates of this ancient and much decayed town have been pulled down. The Reformed church is old, and large ; and the market-place adorned with a stone statue of Jacob Cats, the most popular of Dutch poets, and a statesman of some note, who was a native of the town. The inhabitants were VOL. I. once largely engaged in the herring-fishery, but are now almost purely agricultural. An old man s, an old woman s, and an orphan-house have all disappeared ; but there is still a school. Pop. 1100. BROWNSEA, an isl. England, co. Dorset, near the entrance into Poole harbour, lit m. S. Poole; about 3 m. in circumference, and having on its E. extremity a castle, built in the reign of Elizabeth, for the defence of the port. Pop. 70. BROWN S ISLANDS, a chain of low isles, N. Pacific Ocean; the most N. in lat. 11 40 N. ; Ion. 162 15 E. BROWNSOVER, par. Eng. Warwick ; 1 130 ac. Pop. 90. BROWNSTOWN, par. Irel. Meath; 1199 ac. Pop. 421. BROXBURN. 1, par. Eng. Hertford; 4580 ac. Pop. 2386. 2, A vil. Scotland, co. Linlithgow ; on a stream of same name, and on the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway, 11 m. W. Edinburgh. BROXHOLME, par. Eng. Lincoln; 1230 ac. Pop. 145. BROXTED, or CHAWRETH, par. Eng. Essex; 3110 ac. Pop. 737. BROZAS, a tn. Spain, Estremadura, prov. of, and 21 m. W.N.W. Caceres; on the top of a hill nearly 800 ft. high, surmounted by a fortress. It has irregular streets, three squares, two churches (one built of granite), a townhouse, prison, six schools, an hospital, and a cemetery. Manufac tures- linen and woollen cloths, hats, soap, earthenware, and tanned leather ; but chiefly celebrated for its medicinal baths, used in chronic rheumatism, ague, and in scorbutic and cu taneous disorders. A fair is held in April. Pop. 7121. (Madoz.) BROZZI, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 6 m. W. Florence, r. bank, Arno. It has a church, and townhouse, and manufactures fine stuffs, silk, and hats. Pop. 8712. BRSESK, a tn. Poland, dist. Plotzko, on an affluent of the Vistula, 90 m. W.N.W. Warsaw. The Jesuits had once here a fine convent and college. Pop. (chiefly engaged in linen and woollen weaving), 1300. BRUAR (THE), a rivulet, Scotland, co. Perth, in the district of Athole; a tributary of the Garry, which it joins 19 m. N.W. Dunkeld. Its beautiful falls, and well-wooded banks, are much admired. This stream forms the subject of Burns s poem, The Humble Petition of Bruar Water. BRUAY, a vil. France, dep. Nord, 3 m. from Valen ciennes ; with manufactures of glass. Pop. 1506. BRUCA (LA), [anc. Portiis Pantasius], a seaport tn. Sicily, dist. of, and 15 m. S.E. Catania; on a promontory, at the mouth of the Porcari. Its harbour, fit only for small vessels, enables it to carry on a little trade. Pop. 3000. BRUCE ISLAND, an isl. Red Sea. See JOHN (ST.) BRUCIIE, a small river, France, which rises near a hamlet of the same name, in the Vosges, and, after a N.E. course of about 45 m., joins the Rhone and Rhine Canal, of which it is an important feeder. BRUCHSAL, a tn. Baden, cap. bail, same name, circle, Middle Rhine; on both sides the Salzbach, 12 m. N.N.E. Carlsruhe, and on the railway between it and Heidelberg. It is walled, and has spacious barracks. The church of St. Peter is interesting, and contains some antique tombs. It has also an admirably regulated hospital, a R. Catholic gymnasium, and other seminaries; and a house of correction for the circle of the Middle Rhine. It is an ancient town ; was the residence of the Prince-bishops of Spires, from A.D. 1024, whose antique castle is still standing; and is the seat of the judicial administration of the bailiwick. The grand Duke of Baden, who acquired it in 1803, has a fine palace and grounds here. In the environs are the salt springs of Ubstadt, formerly turned to account, but now neglected. Pop. (ex clusive of garrison), 7386. The BAILIWICK is traversed by the Psinz, and contains the towns of Bruchsal and Heidels- heim. Its area is 76 geo. sq. m. ; and its population, of whom four-fifths are R. Catholics, 33,897. BRUCK. 1, A tn. Lower Austria, gov. and circle, Vienna, from which it is 22 m. E.S.E.; on the Leitha. It is divided into the old and new towns ; has a church, a chateau, with a noble park and botanic garden attached, belonging to the Counts of Harrach ; a theatre, college, and a cotton- spinning factory. Pop. 2600. 2, A tn. Austria, in Styria, cap. circle of same name, at the confluence of the Mur and Miirz ; with a good transit trade, and gypsum quarries. Pop. 1500. The CIRCLE, area, 1168 geo. sq. m., is intersected 65 BRUCKENAU 514 BRUGES by high hills, at the foot of which lie valleys of considerable extent. It is well wooded and watered, and contains both game (particularly the chamois) and fish in abundance. It is also rich in minerals, particularly iron and copper. The in habitants live chiefly by mining, and the rearing of cattle. Pop. 62,000. - 3, A tn. Prussia, prov. Brandenburg, gov. is the town library, of about 8000 vols., and 500 to 600 MSS., most of which belonged to the old abbey of Dunes. Abutting on the townhouse is the chapel of St. Basil, composed of two distinct chapels an upper and a lower; the front being a kind of screen of florid Gothic. Contiguous to this double chapel is the Government-house, and the court-houses. The old parts of, and 17 m. S.W. Potsdam; with manufactures of woollens of the latter contain rooms once inhabited by the sovereign nd linens; and some breweries. Pop. 1255. - Numerous other places in Germany have the name of BKUCK. BRUCKENAU, a vil. Bavaria, on the Sinn, 40 m. N. Wiirzburg, with a castle, in which the royal family often reside during summer. It is also a favourite watering-place, containing saline, alkaline, and chalybeate springs, which are much frequented. Pop. 1850. BRUFF, par. Irel. Limerick; 1331 ac. Pop. 2900. BRUGELETTE, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. Hainaut, on the Dendre, 14 in. N.W. Mons, with linen manufactures, several limestone quarries, and limekilns. There is a Jesuit college here, with about 300 students. Pop. 1787. BRUGES [bridges; Flemish, llnigge], a city, Belgium, cap. prov. W. Flanders, in a plain, 8 m. from the German Ocean, 54 m. N.W. Brussels ; lat. 51 12 N.; Ion. 3 13 E. ; Counts of Flanders, and Uukes of Burgundy, The cathedral of Bruges, or Church of the Holy Saviour, is said to have been first founded A.u. C46. The first build ing being destroyed by fire in 1358, the present church was raised shortly thereafter. The Church of Our Lady is a sumptuously furnished and richly adorned edifice, finished in 1119. The exterior of this churcb, like the preceding, is plain, both being built of brick. The tower and spire of Our Lady s rise to the height of nearly 450 ft., and serve as a landmark to mariners. In side chapels are the fine tomb of Charles the Bold, last Duke of Burgundy, killed January 5, 1477, at the battle of Nancy ; and the finer mausoleum of his daughter, the Archduchess Mary, wife of the Emperor Maxi milian (died, 1482), both buried in this church. Some of the paintings in this church are of superior merit, two in par- surrounded with a double water line, which includes the canals ticular, by Quellyn and Seghers. The once famous abbey of of Ostend (which traverses the city, and is of great depth), the Dunes, or Downs, is now occupied by the seminary or Ghent, and the Damme or Sluice (Ecluse), all of which here academy for young priests. In several parts of the city may conjoin. The city has 54 bridges, 42 stone and 1 2 wooden, j be seen the buildings of suppressed monasteries, either in a all opening in the middle for the passage of vessels; is of an oval shape, lying S.W. to N.E., and is fully 4 m. in cir cuit. It is surrounded by walls with seven gates, and has more than 200 streets. Many of these, owing to the great decrease of the population in modern times, seem half deserted ; but they have all a venerable look, and bear upon them a strong impress of the Middle Ages. The houses in the lead- state of dilapidation or applied to secular purposes. There is still a convent of about 40 British Augustine nuns, who arc much employed in educating ladies of their own persuasion. Their church is small, and of showy circular Roman archi tecture. There is a Protestant chapel in the city for English residents. Besides the theological seminary (pupils, 140; library, 7500 volumes), there are an Episcopal college, partly ing, and even some of the retired streets, mostly remain as ! supported by the state ; an athenee or college, for secondary they were originally erected, and in excellent preservation, \ education, with communal and infant schools ; a school for the with lofty fantastic gables and ornate fronts, abounding in | deaf and dumb (opened 1835); a school of surgery and obste- quaint designs. Bruges is the see of a bishop, the seat of j trie practice ; a museum, open to the public, and a botanic assize courts for the province, and was long one of the finest j garden. Bruges has also some scientific and literary associa- cities of Europe. Near the Grande Place, or chief square, ! tions, and an academy of fine arts, with about 400 students, stands the old edifice called Holies (cloth and other halls, or ( The picture-gallery of the museum contains some good early paintings, such as a Van Eyck, of 1440 ; also others of later date, but greater beauty, by Porbus, llemling, &c. As early as the year 1358, Bruges had a corporation of painters, archi tects, and sculptors ; the labours of many of whom are still visible on the inner and outer walls of the city they lived in, and loved to adorn. The city likewise possesses many well- endowed charitable foundations, among which is the mendicant j depot for W. and E. Flanders, usually containing 500 to 600 I inmates. It has also a mont-de-picte, or state pawn-brokery, a well-ordered prison, and a small theatre. The stagnant water i around the city renders Bruges rather unhealthy, notwithstand ing its proximity to the sea ; still many wealthy old-fashioned I Belgian families make it their general residence. The sandy ! nature of the surrounding country makes good water scarce ; | rain water is therefore carefully preserved, and the inhabitants j likewise use the muddy waters of the canals, and the ditches i of the old fortifications. The manufactures of Bruges are insignificant to what they | were in former ages. They still, however, include linen of every sort and fineness, damasks, lace, light woollen goods, mixed stuns, c. In a recent year, 21,692 pieces of linen were sold in the cloth-hall. The lace-making employs several thousand women and girls ; for instructing the latter in fine work, schools have been opened. In the city are spinning- factories, dyeworks, bleachfields, calico printing-houses, several fulling, oil, tan, and paper mills, a great number of breweries and distilleries, sugar and salt refineries, soapworks, tanneries, currjers shops, starching -houses, hat factories, roperies, potteries, c., and a building yard for the construc tion and repair of vessels. It was long famed for its tapestries ; markets), a square building, surmounted by a tower 354 ft. i and furnished a part of those that graced the triumphal entry high, in which is a very numerous and sweetly-toned set of \ into London, of Edward III., after the battle of Poitiers, chimes. The precise date of this edifice is unknown. Burnt in 1357. in 1280, and again in 1493, it was extensively repaired, if not j Through the means of canals, Bruges has direct, though BRUGES, T,A TOUR DES HJ From Di-leprlen, Albuiv. Pittore.qus quite rebuilt, in 1502. A watch has been kept in it for more than three centuries, to give the alarm the moment a fire appears in the city or environs. To the E. of the market-place stands the Hotel de Ville, and a small but beautiful Gothic townhouse, containing sever?! quaint pictures. Adjoining it limited, intercourse with several ports of general Europe, and may be considered as one of the Belgian entrepots. Hence it exports the native products of the soil, and goods of its own make ; and imports colonial produce, spices, dyewoods, drugs, wines, and brandy, olive-oil, dried fruits, soda, and BRITGG BUUNN potash ; likewise leather, furs, silks, metals, building-timber, cork, and a variety of other articles. The great basin or dock, which is the general receptacle tor all water borne mer chandise, brought in or taken away by means of the several canals, forms a convenient port, having warehouses, &c., adjoining, and accommodation for some scores of vessels at 18 ft. draught. In a recent year, the value of the total entries, officially declared, was 864,577 francs (34,580) ; total exports, value 717,815 francs (28,712). The number of vessels arrived in the place was but 1 1 , of 1 640 tons in all. There are four annual fairs held here ; one for every kind of goods, beginning May 3, and continuing 15 days ; with three others for horses, cattle, &c., one immediately after Easter, and the two others July 25, and November Ifi. The State Railway, from the N. coast, at Ostend to Mechlin, and thence all over Belgium, and connected with the Prussian and French lines, passes through a portion of the W. side of Bruges. In 837, Bruges was fortified by Count Baldwin of the Iron Arm; and was walled, first in 1053, and again in 1270, when the place was also mostly re-built. It suffered greatly from fire in 1184, 1215, and 1280; in the latter disaster its records perished, and its charters wrenched or bought from its feudal protectors, or rather oppressors. For a time it had thus no acknowledged municipal privileges, which, however, were restored by Count Philip the Handsome, in 1299. Early in the 13th century, Bruges had waxed rich and powerful. In the Hanse league, it took the leading rank as the central mart of middle N. Europe, and was frequented by Lombard mer chants. About that time, such was the extent of its com merce, there were 1 3 foreign consuls or agents permanently resident in the city. The progress of its manufactures was at least as great ; and its cloths, linen, and tapestries, at last came to excel all others for quality and beauty. Under the House of Burgundy, Bruges still increased in riches and power. In 1430, Duke Philip the Good here instituted the order of the Golden Fleece a title meant to bring honour to those of its traders who poured a flood of wealth into his cotfers, through means of the chief manufacture of the locality ; for, through its means, a ducal chief was raised above the gen erality of kings, in wealth and real power. Unhappily, the pride and turbulence of the citizens grew nearly commensurate with their prosperity. In 1 488, they rose in rebellion against Duke Maximilian, and laid hands on his person. The severe measures of repression which ensued, gave the first blow to the city s prosperity, from which time it declined ; and its ruin was afterwards nearly completed by the oppressions and persecu tions endured from the Duke of Alva and other myrmidons of Philip II., King of Spain. In these latter days of trouble, all trade was at a stand ; as a consequence, crowds of the best artizans sought an asylum and occupation in England. From that time we may date the beginning of our own superi ority in manufacturing, as well as producing wool, long the great staple of England. The population of Bruges once exceeded 200,000 ; it now scarcely numbers a fourth of that amount, in 1845 being 49,764 ; and even this is a considerable increase, compared with what it had been many years before. BRUGG, or BUUCK, a par. and vil. Switzerland, can. of, and 10 m. N.E. Aargau, on the Aar, which is here crossed by an ancient bridge, supposed by some to be Iloman. It was an ancient possession of the House of Hapsburg, and is sur rounded by walls with lofty conical towers and gates. Half a mile beyond the walls stands the abbey of Konigsfelden, where many members of the House of Austria are buried ; and a little further off, on a wooded height called Wulpelsberg, are the remains of the cradle of that House the Castle of Hapsburg. The village, abbey, and castle, are all included within the site of the ancient Vindonissa, the most important settlement, and strongest fortress of the Romans in Helvetia. Zimmerman was born here ; and Brugg, from having given birth to him, and several other individuals of talent and learn ing, is sometimes jocularly termed the City of the Prophets. Pop. 800. BRUGUIERE (LA). See LABRUGUIEEE. BRt)HL, a tn. Prussia, prov. Rhine, gov. of, and 9 m. S. Cologne, on the railway to Bonn ; on a spur of the Eifclberg. It is surrounded by ancient walls, is well built, and contains two churches, a normal school, and a magnificent palace, begun in 1725 by the Elector Clement Augustus, of Bavaria. In the Franciscan convent, a normal school, for the education of R. Catholic schoolmasters, was established in 1825. The town was of more importance formerly than now. Cardinal Mazarin took up his residence in I riihl when banished from France, in 1651. Pop. 2300. BRUILLE (ST. AMANU), a tn. France, dep. Nord, 9 m. N.W. Valenciennes, near which are coal mines and brick fields. Pop. 2021. BRUIS, par. Irel. Tipperary; 3699 ae. Pop. 1415. BRUISYARD, par. Eng. Suffolk; 1330 ac. Pop. 29G. BRUMATII, a tn. France, dcp. Bas-Rhin, 10 m. N. by "W. Strasburg, on the Zorn; with cold acidulated springs, madder-grinding, and two annual fairs. It occupies the site of the ancient Brocomayus. Pop. 3701. BRUMMEN, a vil. Holland, prov. Gelderland, 13 m. N.N.E. Arnhem. For picturesque beauty, the excellence of its houses, its pleasant society, and the salubrity of its climate, it ranks among the most agreeable villages in Holland. Be sides a Reformed and R. Catholic church, it has a well-attended school, and a branch of the public utility society. Pop. about 900. BRUMSTEAD, par. Eng. Norfolk; 930 ac. Pop. 110. BRUN AI, BRUNI, or BORNEO, a tn. and river. See Bon- NEO PROPER. BRUNDALL, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 490 ac. Pop. 52. BRUNDISH. par. Eng. Suffolk ; 1380 ac. Pop. 525. BRUNECKEN, or BRUNECCO, a tn. Austria, Tyrol, cap. of the Pusterthal, 16 in. N.E. by E. Brixen, on an elevate 1 plain on the river Rienz. It comprises a handsome modern church, adorned inside with frescoes, pictures, and monu ments; a townhall, school, convent, nunnery, and prison, formerly the bishop s castle ; with some manufactures of woollen fabrics. Pop. 1800. BRUNI, or BORNEO, a tn. and river. See BORNEO PRO PER. BRUNI ISLAND, Van Diemen s Land, Hobart Town district, separated from the mainland by D Entrecasteaux Channel ; lat. (S. point or Tasman s Head) 43 32 S. ; Ion. 147 2 1 E. (R.) It is of very irregular form ; the main portion is about 22 m. in length, and about 9 in breadth, connected by a narrow isthmus with another portion of this island about 14m. in length, with a breadth varying from 3 to 5 m. The length of the whole island in a straight line, from Tasman s Head to Cape Get Out, at the mouth of the river Derwent, is about 34 m. It has several bays, the principal of which is Adventure Bay, discovered by Furneaux in 1773, and visited by Cook in 1777. ^ BRUNN [Latin, Hi-ana; Moravian, Brno}, a fortified tn. Austria, Moravia, cap. gov. and circle of same name, 70 in. N. by E. Vienna, on the railway from Vienna to Prague, near the confluence of the Schwarza and the Zwittawa, which almost encircle it. It stands on the slope of a hill, is surrounded with walls which have four gates, and it has 10 suburbs. It is for the most part well built, paved, and lighted, and from its elevated position commands many fine and extensive views. Behind the town is the castle of Spielberg, on a hill of same name, formerly a citadel, but since 1809 converted into a state prison and house of correction, and for eight years the prison-house of Silvio Pellico. Briinn has seven public squares with fountains, six parish churches, a church of Minorites, one of Capuchins, and another belonging to the Augustine monastery, with some fine paintings, and a library attached, founded by Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia ; and many others. The other chief public buildings are St. Peter s Cathedral, the bishop s palace, both built on the Petersberg, a commanding eminence in the W. part of the town ; St. Jacob s Church, a handsome edifice in the Gothic style, with a steeple 276 ft. high, dating from 1315; the Landliaus, built in 1737, formerly an Augustine convent, now the place of meeting of the Moravian Estates, containing the Governor s residence and the Governmental offices ; the military palace ; the townhall, built in 1511; the theatre; the splendid mansions of the Dietrichsteins, Liechtensteins, Kaunitzes, and other nobles; and the Jesuits college, a very spacious structure, enclosing seven different courts, now used as a barracks. The chief scientific and literary institutions are a philosophical institute, diocesan theological seminary, royal gymnasium, head normal school, and several other schools ; a national society for the encouragement of agriculture, natural history, and geography, BRUNNEN 516 BRUNSWICK with it valuable museum, botanic garden, and public library. Briiim is the centre of Episcopal jurisdiction, the seat of a Protestant consistory, a court of appeal, and of other criminal mid military courts. It has numerous charitable institutions, euch as the general infirmary, lying-in hospital, and lunatic asylum, orphan asylum, society for the suppression of public begging, foundations for pensioning the soldiers of the Briinn burgher guard, and the widows and orphans of teachers; asylums for the blind, the deaf and dumb, and for decayed livery servants. It contains also a bridewell, a workhouse, a fire insurance office, and a provincial bank. The number and extent of its woollen, silk, and cotton manufactories, have obtained for it the name of Austrian Leeds ; its woollens are particularly prized. The other manufactured articles are chiefly silks, ribbons, cottons, yarns, glass, soap, tobacco, dye- stuffs, leather, and vinegar. It surpasses every town in Mo ravia in the extent of its trade, being highly favoured by its central position in regard to Prague, Breslau, Pesth, and Vienna, with all of which it is now connected by railway. Its four annual fairs are much frequented by Austrian manu facturers. Briinn lias several beautiful public walks ; the most attractive are the Augarten, and the Franzensberg gardens, in which is an obelisk 60 ft. high, of Moravian marble, erected in 1818, in honour of the late Emperor, Francis I. Briinn is old ; its citadel was blockaded by the Hungarians in 947, and the town itself was besieged by the Swedes in 1645, and by the Prussians in 1742. It has been repeatedly destroyed by fire, and as often rebuilt. In 1558, it was visited by the plague, which carried off 4000 of the inhabitants, to whose memory a column has been raised in the great square. Bonaparte had his head quarters in this town before the battle of Austerlitz, December 18u5; and in 1809, the chief defences of Fort Spielberg were demolished by the French. Pop. in 1846, exclusive of garrison, 45,189. BRUNNEN, a vil. Switzerland, can. of, and 3 m. S.W. Schwytz, picturesquely situated on the banks of Lake Luzern, near the mouth of the Muotta. It has a good transit trade, being both the port of Schwytz, and the depot for goods to and from Italy over the St. Gothard. After the victory of Morgarten, the confederates met here and swore their league. Brunnen suffered much from the French in 1799. BRUNSBUTTEL, a tn. Denmark, in the S. Ditmarshes, r. bank, Elbe, about 7 m. from its mouth ; lat. 53 55 N. ; Ion. 9 10 E. Its harbour, which is a little to the E. of the town, has from 3 to 12 ft. water, is well sheltered, and is provided with commodious wharfs. Its export of grain is considerable. Steamers ply regularly between this place and Altona and HamTOrg. There is also a ferry across the Elbe, which is here about 4 m. broad. The river is deep at this point, and the current so violent, that it has swept away the ground on which stood two older towns of the same name, and has caused very expensive erections for the protection of the present Brunsbiittel. The town is extending and improv ing, and owns a considerable number of vessels, mostly of small size. Pop. 1200. BRUNSWICK [German, Braunschweig], a duchy, N.W. Germany, forming the twelfth state of the German Confedera tion. It consists of three larger and six smaller divisions, detached from each other, and surrounded by foreign posses sions. The principal division, containing Brunswick, the capital, is of a compact and oval form, with the exception of a narrow stripe towards the N.E. On the N., W., and S.W., it is surrounded by Hanover, and on the S. and E. by Prussian Saxony. The second larger division is a long irregular belt, stretching from E. to W. across S. Hanover, which of course forms its N. and S. boundaries, while on the E. it is bounded by Prussian Saxony, and on the W. by Ilhenish Prussia, Hanover, and Waldeck. To the S.E of this division lies the third, also irregular in shape, traversed by the Harz Moun tains, and surrounded by portions of Prussia, Hanover, and Anhalt. Of the six smaller divisions, Thedinghausen, Boden- berg, Haringen, and Oelsburg, are in Hanover ; and Kalvorde, and a patch of land near the village of Seinsfeld, government of Troves, are in Prussia. The united area of all these divisions is computed at 1134 geo. sq. m., of which nearly one-half is arable land, meadow, and gardens, one-third forest, and one- fourth moorland. The surface is for the most part hilly, particularly the division which is traversed by the Harz. Brunswick Proper has a considerable extent of level land, only a few low ridges appearing towards the E. The prin cipal rivers are the Oker, Leine, and Weser, to the basin of which last all the streams belong, with the exception of the Bodi, which falls into the Elbe. The principal mineral pro ducts are gold, silver, antimony, lead, zinc, copper, sulphur, vitriol, and alum. The mines are, in part, worked conjunctly with the Hanoverian Government, and, in part, independently. The duchy produces also marble, alabaster, limestone, and gypsum, potters clay, asbestos, agate, jasper, &c. There are within the territory, likewise, several saltworks of consider able extent. In the Harz Mountains, asphalt and other bitu minous substances are found. Game is not very abundant, though red deer, roebucks, hares, rabbits, and a few wild boars, are occasionally to be met with in the forests. Fresh water fish are rather more plentiful. The chief manufactures are of iron, linen (now, however, much fallen off), and camlets ; dyeing and brewing are also carried on to a considerable extent; and oil and saw mills are numerous on the different large streams. The spinning of yarn forms an important branch of industry all over the duchy. The industrial re sources of the country are carefully and judiciously cultivated by the Government, which extends its protection and patronage also to its educational institutions. The constitution of Bruns wick is a limited monarchy. The legislature is composed of the Duke, an upper chamber consisting of six prelates and the 78 holders of equestrian estates, and a lower chamber composed of six prelates, 19 deputies from towns, and as many representatives of the land-holders who do not possess eques trian rights. The legislature must assemble at least once every three years, for which period the taxes are voted. The Duke appoints three ministers of state, and in each of the six circles into which the state is divided, there is a provincial board to conduct its municipal and local government. The revenue of the duchy is derived from the ducal domains, from land, personal and indirect taxes, from stamps, fees of court, post-office, tolls, and a lottery. In 1849, these amounted col lectively to 234,300, the expenditure being about the same amount. Public debt (1845), 966,652, of which 258,750 was for railways. The quota of men which the duchy is bound to furnish to the army of the German Confederation, is 2096. The affairs of this little state are conducted with great pru dence and judgment, and the consequence has been, the secur ing for its population a degree of comfort and independence not equalled in any other part of Germany. Personal bravery, and an open unsuspecting nature, are the distinguishing char acteristics of the Brunswickers. Pop. (1846), 268,943. BRUNSWICK. 1, A city, Germany, cap. duchy of same name, and place of residence of the Dukes of Brunswick ; 35 m. S.E. Hanover ; lat. 52 16 11" N. ; Ion. 10 31 29" E. (L.) It is divided into six districts, and contains about 100 streets ; most of them clean, and some of them spacious and imposing, though of somewhat antiquated appearance, many of the houses being of wood, and from 300 to 400 years old. The city was formerly fortified, but the ramparts have been levelled, planted with trees, and converted into pleasant pro menades. The principal public buildings are the new palace or schloss, a magnificent structure ; the ancient cathedral of St. Blaize ; the mansion-house, with statues of Guelphic princes in front ; the chapter-house, chancery, house of legis lative assembly, mint, arsenal, ducal exchequer, opera-house, townhall, trades -hall, old Altdorf townhall, and a few others. Besides these, are the following objects of interest an ancient bronze lion of Byzantine workmanship, brought from Con stantinople ; a Gothic fountain of bronze, dated 1408, situated in the Alte Stadt-markt; a cast-iron obelisk, 60 ft. high, erected by the citizens to the memory of their two Dukes who fell at Jena and Quatre-Bras ; and a monument and chapel, erected to the memory of the patriotic Schill, who, with 14 of his companions in arms, was shot here by the French, in 1808, for rising against them. The museum possesses an excellent gallery of paintings, comprising many works of the greatest masters, and a good collection of clas sical antiquities, and works of art. The city contains 10 churches, including the cathedral, next to which the most remarkable are St. Andrew s, one of whose steeples is 318 ft. high; St. Catherine s, adorned with paintings by Diebrich, and some magnificent stained glass windows, and the church of St. Martin, in the pointed Gothic style. The educatioi.al institutions are the college, a gymnasium, a seminary for BRUNSWICK 517 BRUSSELS teachers, a college of anatomy and surgery, a real schule for practical acquirements, including mechanics, and commer cial and agricultural studies ; and several others. Amongst the charitable institutions, which are numerous, are a general Armenian, by a rapid stream, across which there are two stone bridg h of a single arch. The houses, which are THE WOOL MARKET AND ST. ANDREWS CHURCH, BRUNSWICK. From Lanije, Ansichten von Dcutschland. and lying-in hospital, a deaf and dumb, and orphan asylums. The principal manufactures of the town are of linen, woollen, hardware, tobacco, chicory, Glauber-salt, mineral colours, china, papier mache, leather, &c. Three railways now meet in Brunswick. The earliest and shortest, completed in 1839, leads to, and terminates in, Harzburg ; the second goes E. to Magdeburg; and the third, N. and N.W. to Hanover. The railways promise to make Brunswick the entrepot of a very extensive trade. Pop. 42,000. 2, A vil. and par. Den mark, Holstein, near Kiel, with which it is connected by a handsome bridge. Pop. 1167. BRUNSWICK BAY, Australia, N.W. coast; Ion. 125 E. The Prince Regent river, discovered by Capt. Stokes, falls into this bay. BRUNSWICK (NEW). See NEW BRUNSWICK. BRUNT1NGTHORPE, par. Eng. Leicester ; 1320 ac. Pop. 423. BRUREE, par. Irel. Limerick; 8895 ac. Pop. 3804. BRUSA, BURSA, or PKUSA [anc. Prusa ad Olympum], a celebrated city, Turkey in Asia, pash. Anatolia, 62 m. S. by E. Constantinople, beautifully situated on a verdant plain, at the foot of Mount Olympus. Including the suburbs, it extends 2 m. E. to W., and half a mile N. to S. The appearance of I BRUSA.-From T,-xier, Description de I Asie Mil Brusa, with its domes and minarets, the fruitful fields by which it is surrounded, diversified by magnificent scenery, and delightful solitudes, is singularly pleasing and pictur esque. It is divided into two quarters, the Turkish and for the most part of wood, occupy the face of a declivity, and command a fine view of the plain below. The city is well supplied with fountains, and streams of water run through most of the streets, which are generally narrow, unpaved, and filthy, from the accumulations of mud caused by the water which, if properly managed, should cleanse them. Near the centre of the town, on a perpendicular rock, stands the citadel, occupying the site, it is supposed, of the Acropolis of ancient Prusa. The walls are of Greek construc tion, and of great solidity. Within its walls is a mosque, called Daoud Monasteri, in which is the tomb of Sultan Orkhan, son of Othman, who conquered Brusa in 1326. West of this mosque there is a ruined castle, and two gateways. The principal ornaments of the city are its mosques, of which there are said to be 365, some of them magnificent, especially those of the Sultans Achmet and Osman ; and the Oolah, or great mosque, in the centre of the city. The baths are handsome struc tures, contain a number of apartments, and are well supplied with both hot and cold springs ; the Kalputcha Hammam, situated about 1J m. N.W. the city, is the principal. There is here, also, a circular pool, of 25 ft. diameter, and 4| ft. deep, paved with marble, and lined with coloured tiles, in which swimming is practised. The khans and colleges are numerous and re spectable. The bezestans, large buildings with shops and ware houses, and the bazaars, are filled with silk and cotton stuffs, manufactured for exportation, and of which large quantities are produced, especially of silk ; Brusa silk being much esteemed both in Europe and the East. The cultivation and manufacture of this article is said to employ 30,000 persons. In 1848 there were 354,750 Ibs. of raw silk produced in the city and neighbourhood. Brusa was long capital of Bithynia, and one of the most flourishing towns in the Greek empire of Constantinople. In 1356 it was taken by Orkhan, son of Othman, founder of the Ottoman dynasties; and from that epoch it was the residence of the Turkish sovereigns, until the seat of empire was transferred to Adrianople. Feb. 28, 1855, an earthquake injured or destroyed the chief public buildings, including 80 mosques, and a great part of the town, and killed 100 people. Pop. about 60,000. BRUSHFORU,two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Devon; 1220ac. Pop. 144. 2, par. Somerset; 4030 ac. Pop. 340. BRUSSELS [Flemish, Brussel; French, Bruxelles], the cap. of Belgium and of prov. S. Brabant, the resid ence of the King, and the seat of Government. It is situate on the small river Senne, about 50 m. S.E. the German Ocean; lat. (observatory) 50 51 11" N. ; Ion. 4 21 55" E. (L.) ; nearly in the centre of the kingdom, in an agreeably diversified and fertile locality, and erected partly on a hill, and partly on flat ground, through the latter of which flow the turbid waters of the Senne, with a tortuous course, forming four islands in its way. Though the highest ground in the city is only about 220 ft. above the sea level, yet the general aspect of the whole, towards the W., is lofty and imposing. The city is about 3 m. in circumference, is shaped somewhat like a flat iron, and its walls, which are merely intended for fiscal purposes, the fortifications having been destroyed, enclose nearly 16,000 houses or other buildings, with about 500 streets, lanes, or alleys ; the whole being divided, for municipal government, into eight territorial sections. Between the city and the walls, and intermediate to the suburbs, are the broad promenades and drive, replacing former ramparts, called boulevards; these are nine in num ber, and shaded with double rows of lime-trees. There are 14 city gates, none of them note-worthy, except the antique Porte de Hal, a baronial-looking barbacan, erected late in the 14th century, which long served, in later days, as a prison, BRUSSELS 518 BRUSSELS The Brussels of early Christian times w;is little more than a group of huts on a marshy island (Isle de St. Gery), sur rounded by the Senne. During the Middle Ages, it never had the extent or importance of the great cities of the Low Countries, such as Antwerp, Ghent, or Bruges ; but, in suc ceeding times, it became, as the political capital of the country, nearly as conspicuous in history. It has still much of the courtly air of other days, when the Spanish monarchy threw the mantle of its grandeur over the plainness of Flemish thrift; and even in the commonest quarters of the lower or old town, there are many quaintly ornate buildings, once the mansions of Brabant nobles, but now occupied by very dif ferent tenants. In the high town, the buildings are generally modern, built of brick, and covered with cements. Every part of Brussels exhibits a congeries of twisted streets, with exception of a few of those recently formed, mostly near the royal palace. One, the Rue Royale, is really handsome. Several irregular areas, called places or marches, when used as markets, are to be found at intervals through the city, which, however, is, in general, far too closely built. The only exception is in the extra-mural quarters lately I formed, such as the new and regular quarters Leopold and I Louise, beyond the Boulevard du Regent. Among the chief ! places, &c-, are the Place Royale, containing, in one of its j sides, the church of St. Jacques ; Place des Palais, hard by ; I Place du Grand Sablon, with the church of Notre Dame des I Victoires ; the Grande Place or Grand Marche*, in front of the Hotel de Ville, is a remarkable square, forming the finest feature in Brussels, at least in a pictorial point of view ; and containing, besides the beautiful Hotel de Ville, the front of which occupies much of one side, the brood or bread-house (called also Haison du JSoi), and several antique and quaint edifices, most of which were the guild-houses of corporations j of trades during the Middle Ages ; in the open space the ! patriot nobles, Counts Egmont and Horn, were beheaded by i Alva, in 1568; Place des Martyrs, named in memory of those i who fell, on the Belgian side, in the Revolution of 1830 ; Place ! de la Monnaie, so called because the mint, in which money j was struck as early as 1291, forms a portion of one side; the opposite side being formed by the theatre royal, which | is also the opera-house. The two chief open-air places of recreation in Brussels are, the Park, and the Allee Verte. The former, area 17 ac., is on the high E. side of the city, in the court quarters, and is overlooked, on one side, by the royal palace ; on another, by the prince royal s palace, &c. ; on the third, by the legislative palace ; and on the fourth, a rectangle, by the edifices of the Rues Royale, Brabant, Ducale, &c. The Alice Verte, which is outside the boulevards, and laid along the E. bank of the Willebroeck Canal, is a handsome and spacious ride or drive, with rows of fine old elms, and inter vening footways, extending nearly 1J m. Among the chief public edifices, the Hotel de Ville merits the first mention. It is a fine sample of Loinbardo-Gothic, erected between 1401 and 1442. The open-work spire, espe cially, is lofty and elegant. Including the tower, it is fully 380 ft. high ; and with the figures of St. Michael and the Dragon, a group in copper, gilt, about 400 ft. high. The interior of the townhouse is mostly occupied by plain offices for muni cipal officials ; but one rather small saloon, quaintly decorated, is shown as that where the Emperor Charles V., in October 1555, abdicated in favour of Philip II. The King s palace is a respectable- looking edifice, separated from the closely contiguous houses, near the Place Royale, j b/ a small garden. At right angles with the King s palace, is that of the heir-apparent, or palace of Brabant, built for the Prince of Orange, the late King of Holland, as a voluntary gift, by the Belgian people. The owner was driven from it, one year after its completion, at the Revolution of 1830, since which time it has remained unoccupied. Opposite to the King s palace, is the palace of the Nation, or of the Belgian legislative chambers an edifice originally built for the council of Brabant, with a Doric facade. Close to the legis lative palace are located the ministers of the Belgic home department, of finance, and foreign affairs ; and, hard by, the Palais du Consiel d Etat. The palace of the fine arts, also called the museum, one part of which was founded in 1346, and finished in 1520, and another added in 1749, contains a gallery of paintings (inferior, j as a collection, to the one in Antwerp museum), of sculpture, and of natural history; with cabinets of curious antiquities, comparative anatomy, and gallery of ancient armour, library of 120,000 volumes, and about 10,000 MSS. ; the latter form ing the Burgundian library. The museum of industry, contiguous to the foregoing, is built on the site of the old botanic garden. One of its main uses is the periodical exhibition of samples of Belgian industry, which takes place every four years. Among the permanent collections kept here, are, first, a depot of models, and con structive machines; second, a depot of plans, &c. ; third, a technological library. A portion of the establishment is called the college, in which gratuitous lectures on science, history, literature, &c., are given daily, during appointed seasons, by state-paid professors. A little way from the museums, lower down the city, at the Place de Sablon, is the palace of justice ; where are the head courts of Belgium, law offices, &c. Churches. The church of St. Gudule, the cathedral of Brussels, is a large and noble pile, of cruciform shape, situate on a slope, between the corner of the park and the botanic garden, formerly called the Moelenberg, or Mill-hill. The central doorway is flanked on either side by a massive square tower ; each 226 ft. high ; these towers are more modern than the general pile, having been added to it in 1518 ; while the body of the edifice was built between 1226 and 1663. It* architecture is of early pointed Gothic, and the material is mostly brick. The interior has the stamp of simple grandeur ; and, to the inside of the. piers of the nave, are attached, on brackets, 14 colossal statues, representing Jesus, the Virgin, and the twelve apostles ; works of Du Quesnoy, and other good artists. The pulpit is a remarkable piece of wooden sculpture, by Verbruggen. The windows have richly coloured glass, by Flors and others j comprising the likeness of the Emperor Charles V., and several other historical personages. There are several other Gothic churches in Brussels, of which the most interesting arc the chapel church (eglise de la chapelle), built on a lofty site, and dating from 1140; it contains a fine pulpit, sculptured tombs, and a few good paint ings; the church of the Sablon, built in 1288, has an elegant in terior, with a splendid mausoleum ; the church of St. Nicholas; and the church of St. Catherine, with a fine picture by Crayer. The French, German, and English Protestants, have each their places of worship, and the Jews have a synagogue. Institutions Benevolent, Educational, Literary, and Scien tific. Among the benevolent institutions of Brussels, are the hospital of St. Peter, and several other hospitals and places of refuge, the infirmary, philanthropic society, &c. The free university of Brussels was founded in 1834 ; it is a proprietary rather than a state institution, and comprises four faculties- mathematical and physical sciences, belles lettres, law, medi BRUSSELS 519 I3KUSSELS cine, with a special school of pharmacy attached. There are about 60 professors and assistant teachers in all. The athenee royal is a secondary institution, founded by the communal ! administration in 1842. It is under state control, and has 25 professors or teachers. The total number of students and pupils receiving their education, in the superior and middle class colleges and schools of Brussels, is nearly 4000. A school of geography, in the Flanders suburb, was founded in 1830, \ by M. Vandermaelen, for the public benefit. The extensive i museum of this establishment is an admirable collection for the elucidation of physical sciences, as geology, chemistry, ! anatomy, and natural history in general. In the royal academy of the fine arts, refounded in 1836, gratuitous instruction is given in drawing, painting, sculpture, architecture, and en- j graving. The Belgian royal academy of sciences, letters, and the fine arts, has its seat in Brussels. It comprises three departments, general science, letters, and moral and political knowledge, and the fine arts. The royal school of medicine, founded in 1841, has also its seat here. Its main duties are, to report to the Government on all that concerns the public health, forensic medical science, and the veterinary art. It publishes its transactions periodically. Elementary edu cation is well provided for in the capital, both by the municipal authorities and the state. There are five large communal primary schools, and an extensive model elementary school ! (ecole primaire sup&rieure). The clergy, too, have a number of the children of the city under primary educational training. I The total number of pupils in the authorized primary schools of Brussels, considerably exceed 6000. French is the common medium for instruction in nearly all the foregoing, with the exception of a very few of the lower class schools. Among the societies for the advancement of knowledge, located in Brussels, are the royal society of medical and natural sciences, royal society of horticulture, with a botanic garden, which is one of the most attractive places of resort about Brussels ; i royal floral society, royal council of agriculture, including a farming and agricultural school ; a royal antiquarian society, with a museum, which is open to the public ; Brussels royal academy of the tine arts, with 1 5 professors of painting, draw- j ing, sculpture, and architecture, who are paid by the state, and take no fees. The royal conservatory of music of Brussels lias 28 professors of music, vocal and instrumental ; there are 19 elementary teachers besides. The observatory, in the N. E. j quarter of the city, is a well-furnished and somewhat cele brated establishment. Government, Health, &c. The municipal administrative body of Brussels, called the regency, is composed of a burgo master, and four shrieval functionaries, named echevins, with a communal council of 26 members. Upon most articles intro duced for consumption in the city a special impost is levied, besides the tax that some of them may have paid to the state. The chief prison is the Carmes, so called from being built, in the S.W. quarter of the city, on a site formerly occupied by a Carmelite convent. It is a two-storied oblong square pile, with nine courts for air or exercise. At Vilvorde, 6 m. dis tant N., is the maison de reclusion, for convicts. The city is lighted with gas, and well supplied with spring water, brought in pipes from Etterbeck, and has several public wells within the walls, and a good many fountains for general use, of which may be specially noticed, the Manneken Pis, with its bronze statuette. The climate is salubrious, but moist; and the weather proverbially fickle. The winters are more severe than those of London. The cemeteries are all outside of the town. Manufactures. The first well-reputed product of Brussels was lace, and some of the finer qualities are made there still. Carriage-making was, for a time, a considerable manufacture, but is on the decline. Printing, type- founding, paper and ink-making, and all that is needful -in the manufacture of books, chiefly reprints of contemporary French works, give no small amount of employment. Some printed cottons, velvets, muslins, &c., and light woollen fabrics, are made in and near the city. The minor articles of manufacture in clude china and stone ware, glass of several kinds, hats for j both sexes, furniture, ornamental paper, hosiery, tallow and j wax candles, oil, tobacco, chemicals, colours and varnishes, vinegar, chocolate, glue, horsehair and wire cloths, &c. There are many breweries and distilleries, several sugar and salt refineries, some tanneries and curriers works, several dyeworks, bleacheries, and spinneries. A fow carpets am made in Brussels, but most of those of Belgic make, to which it gives name, are really the produce of Tournai. Other products are, bronzed wares, ropes and twine, brushes, corks, nails, swords, cutlery, waxcloths, ribbons, gold and silver lace, knitted articles, gloves, buttons, combs, wadding, writing ink, chicory powder, playing and other cards, &c. There are foundries of iron and brass, steam-engine factories, rolling- mills, &c. Among petty articles of luxury, formed in Brussels to a considerable extent, may be enumerated as the chief gold, silver, and fancy stone trinketry; trimmings of dresses, &c. Brussels is, indeed, the great depot of all useful and tasteful products, in the small thriving kingdom of which it is the centre ; and there is scarcely any trade or calling needful, in a state of advanced civilization, that does not find some who follow it here. Trade. Brussels carries on a brisk trade with every other part of Belgium, by means of railways, canals, and rivers. The Senne is not navigable, but the canals of Willebroeck or Antwerp, and Charleroi, serve as water roads. The former begins at Brussels, and terminates at the river liupel, oppo site Boom, the navigation being thus continued to the Scheldt ; the latter connects Brussels with the S., ends at Martignies- sur-Sambre, and is 46 m. long. Trade is further promoted by the N. and S. railroads connecting Brussels with all parts of Belgium, with Prussia, and France. The chief offices of the two Belgian state banks are located in the capital. In Brussels are also a chamber of commerce, and a society of commerce, the aim of which is to forward trading interests under state auspices. A mont-de-pictd \vas established as early as 1818. The profits arising from the interest on pawns, and their sale when forfeited, go to the funds of the hospitals. In a recent year, pawns to the value of 2,000,000 francs (80,000) were taken. Inhabitants. Few of the best Bulgian families reside in the capital, probably on account of the expense of living. The trading class is a sober-living, steady, and cautious, per haps rather distrustful race. The working people are an industrious, patient, good-tempered race, but mostly impro vident, and given to constant beer-drinking, and frequent holiday-making. The French language is universally spoken in the mixed society of Brussels, and French literature per fectly appreciated by its citizens. Most of the lower classes, who have had any education, also speak it, more or less cor rectly ; but in their intercourse with each other, the vernacu lar, Flemish or Walloon, is still common. In the markets, however, many of the country dealers can speak no French. The horse races, which take place in the plain of Lacken every year in July and September, when prizes are given by the municipality, have irresistible attractions for all ranks of the inhabitants of Brussels. History. The Emperor Otho dated a decree, apud Brusolam, in 976. But the town was not of consequence enough to be fortified till 1041, when Lambert Balderic, Count of Louvain and Brussels, built a wall, with seven gates, around it. A second wall was constructed in 1380, which followed, pretty nearly, the line of the present boulevard. In 1405, it lost 1400 of its houses by fire. In 1549, two earthquakes caused it much damage. But it was of small account, till Flanders passed into the hands of princes of the House of Austria , when it became, in 1507, the usual seat of government for the entire Low Countries. At Brussels, the Emperor Charles V. esfablished his vice-royalty ; and here, in an assembly of the States, A.n. 1555, he solemnly divested himself of monarchical power, in favour of his son, Philip II., under whom it endured much, from his minion the Duke of Al va, and from the inquisi tion, here set up. Brussels was taken by the French, in 1701, at the beginning of the Succession War. In 1706, it was taken by the Duke of Marlborough ; and by the French, under Marshal Saxe, in 1747. The peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, in 1748, gave back Brussels to the Austrians. In 1794, General Dumouriez took possession of it for the French republic. On the extension and re-constitution of the French territory, Brussels became the chief town of the department of the Dyle. Bonaparte, then first consul, made his ceremonial entry into Brussels, by the Alle e Verte, July 21, 1803. He was rather partial to this city, and bought the chateau of Lacken, as a palace for Josephine ; and, under its roof, he signed his fatal BRUSTHEM 520 BUBWITII declaration of war against Russia. The Prussians took pos session of Brussels. February 1, 1814. September 11, 1815, William of Orange-Nassau was inaugurated at Brussels, as King of the Low Countries. It then became one of the two 1. Palais du Roi. 2. Palais rte l.v Nflt ; < 3. Taluisdo J.i-u e. 4. Palais Jto Aits. 5-Musee. 6. Hotel de Villr. 7. Cnthedral. 8. Observatory. 10 . Hopkal St. jn 11. Nouvcau HopitalSt. J 12. Place Royale. 18, IJnui.le PiaeP. 14. Place rie 1 Monrai". 15. Place du Grand Sal.lr.r, capitals of the new kingdom, alternating with the Hague, in Holland, as the residence of the court, and the seat of the states (etats gencraux). At length, September 23, 1830, burst out, at Brussels, the revolution which separated Belgium from Holland ; and Prince Leopold, of Saxe-Coburg, elected King of the Belgians, by the national congress, June 4, 1831, made his public entry into Brussels, as the sole capital of his new kingdom. Pop. (1846), 123,874 ; of whom 47,534, speak French or Walloon ; and 74,680, speak Flemish or Dutch. (Meert s Bdgique; Berghaus, Geographisches Jahrbuch; Mur ray s Handbook; Private Information.} BRUSTHEM, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. Limburg, 10 m. N.W. Tongres ; with an old church, founded in 1449; and a tower, built in 1111. The village is noted for a signal defeat of the Liegeois, by Charles the Bold, in 1467. Pop. about 1000. BRUTON, a market tn. and par. England, co. Somerset. The town is 12 % m. E. by S. Glastonbury, agreeably situate at the foot of a steep hill, on the Bri or Bru, from which it derives its name, and which is here crossed by a stone bridge. It consists principally of one well-paved and well-kept street; houses in general neat-looking and respectable ; church, an elegant and spacious structure, in the later English style. It has also two chapels, and an Independent meeting-house, a free grammar-school, founded in 1519; and an hospital for 14 aged men, 14 aged women, and 16 boys, who are also educated and apprenticed. Manufactures, formerly exten sive, now confined principally to stockings and machinery. Silk-throwing also affords a good deal of employment. Two fairs annually. Dampier, the celebrated navigator, was born here. Area of par. 3520 ac. Pop. (1841), 2074. BRUX, or Biux,aroyal tn. Bohemia, circle, Saatz, 46 m. N.W. Prague, on the Bila, at the foot of the Schlossberg. It is walled, and well built, has several churches and convents, a gymnasium, an hospital, a normal school, a school of indus try for girls, a townhouse, and a manufactory of cotton stuffs. In the neighbourhood are extensive coal mines, and tbo springs of Pillna, strongly impregnated, like those of Seidlitz, with Epsom and Glauber salt, and yielding a better mineral water, which is largely exported. The inhabitants trade in corn and fruits. Pop. 3000. BRUYERES, a tn. France, dep. Vosges, 14 m. E.N.E. Epinal, on the Arentelle, in the midst of the Vosges Moun tains. It has manufactures of calicoes and cutlery, and a considerable trade in thread, linen, butter, cheese, and cattle. Pop. 2276. BRYANSTON, or BLANDFORD- BRYAN, par. Eng. Dor set; 1870 ac. Pop. 144. BRYN-CROE8, par., N. Wales, Carnarvon. Pop. 948. BRYN-EGLWYS, par., N. Wales, Denbigh; 3000 ac. Pop. 449. BRYNGWYN. 1, par., S. Wales, Radnor; 4000 ac. Pop. 281. 2, par. Eng. Monmouth ; 1560 ac. Pop. 306. . BRYN-LLYS, or BRON-LLIS, par., S. Wales, Brecon. Pop. 338. BRZEZANY, a tn. Austria, Galicia, cap. circle of same name, gov. of, and 47 m. S.E. Lemberg, on the Zlota-Lipa. It has several churches, a castle, convent, gymnasium, and extensive tanworks. Pop. 5500, of which 1500 are Jews. The CIRCLE, area, 1808 geo. sq. m., is somewhat hilly, well wooded, and watered by the Dniester and its affluents. It abounds in game and honey, and produces good crops of corn, flax, and hemp. Considerable numbers of horses, and neat cattle, are reared. The circle contains three towns, 14 market towns, and 390 villages. Pop. (inclusive of 16,000 Jews), 175,000. BRZEZNITZ, a tn. Bohemia, circle, Prachin, 42 m. S.S.W. Prague, on the Wlzowa or Lomnitz. It has a palace and a parish church. Pop. 2000. Two small places in Moravia have the same name. BRZEZYN, a tn. Poland, gov. Moravia, on the Pilica, 61 m. S.W. Warsaw. It has some manufactures of woollen cloth. Pop. 3200. BRZOZOW, a tn. Austria, Galicia, circle of, and 14 m. N.W. Sanok, on the Stebnica. It has an ancient castle, a parish church, and cloth manufactures. Pop. 2400. BUA [anc. oas], a small isl. in the Adriatic, Austria, Dalmatia, circle, Spalatro, and opposite to the town of Trail, with which it is connected by a mole or bridge. It is a long straggling island, about 10 m. long W. to E., and scarcely 1 m. in breadth. Its coast is formed by bold rocks of lime stone, and has no proper harbour, but two promontories form j a bay of a horse-shoe form, in which vessels can ride in safety. Little of its OIK e boasted fertility now remains. The chief products are wine, olives, and almonds. Some asphalt is obtained from a cavern on the N. side. During the later period of the Koman empire, many state offenders and heretics were confined here. Pop. 3349, of whom 1380 live in the principal village, called Bua or Santa-Croce. BUACHE ISLAND. See GARDEN ISLAND. BUBAK, a vil. Scinde, on the borders of Beloochistan, on the N.E. shore of Lake Manchur, and said to possess a good climate; lat. 26 26 N.; Ion. 66 52 E. Pop. about 5000. BUBBENHALL, par. Eng. Warwick; 15S90 ac. P.26 2. BUBBIO. See BOBBIO. BUBENDORF, a par. and vil. Switzerland, can. Basel- Landschaft, on a small tributary of the Erpez, 10 m. S.E. Basel, in a grassy valley, in the midst of magnificent scenery. It contains an ancient church and handsome parsonage. In its vicinity are saline springs, which bear its name, and at a short distance to the S., a lofty peak is crowned by the old castle of Wildenstein, in which several interesting antiquities are seen. Pop. 1193. BUBION, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 35 m. S.E. Granada, on an inclined plane ; with steep, irregular, j though paved streets, two squares, an ancient Gothic church, townhall, prison, endowed school, and several fountains. The inhabitants are principally engaged in agriculture and cattle- rearing. Pop. 2697. BUBLITZ, a tn. Prussia, prov. Pomerania, gov. of, and 23 in. S.E. Cbslin, in a valley, on the Gozel. It contains a parish church, and has some linen and woollen manufactures. A good many of the inhabitants live by fishing and agricul ture. Pop. 2095. BUBW1TH, par. Eng. York, E. Riding; 10,460 ac. Pop. 1370. BUCCANEER ARCHIPELAGO 521 BttCKEBUBG BUCCANEER ARCHIPELAGO, a group of islands off the N.W. coast of Australia, between Sunday Strait and Collier Bay; lat. 16 S.; Ion. 123 30 E. BUCCARI, a seaport tn. Austria, Croatia, in a bay of the Adriatic, 4 m. E. Fiume. It is finely situated on the shore between two hills, and is a royal free town, with a free harbour. It possesses a strong castle, and a parish church. Pop. 2200. BUCCINO, a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Citra, on the Botto, here crossed by an ancient bridge of early Roman con struction, 14 m. E. by S. Campagna. It is surrounded by walls, and defended by a strong castle, and contains five parish churches and several convents. In the neighbourhood fine marble is quarried. Pop. 4700. BUCELLAS, a vil. Portugal, prov. Estremaclura, 15 m. N. Lisbon, on the Francao, in a district that produces wine of good quality, known by the name of Bucellas. BUCHAN, a dist. Scotland, a division of cos. Aberdeen and Banff, stretching along the E. coast, and forming the most E. land of the kingdom. Its limits are not certainly defined, the mouths of the Doveran and the Don having been assigned as its boundaries the one on the N., and the other on the S. More recent opinion has fixed on the river Ythan as its S. limit. The whole district was at one time the property of the Cumines, Earls of Buchan, and is one of the oldest earldoms in Scotland. On Robert Bruce ascending the throne of Scotland, he denuded the Cumines, his most implacable ene mies, of their property, and divided it amongst his friends. The Earls of Buchan have long ceased to have any property in the district. Cap. Peterhead. BUCHANAN, par. Scot. Stirling; length, 20m.; breadth, 6 m. Pop. 754. BUCHANNESS, a promontory or headland, Scotland, coast of Buchan, co. Aberdeen, S. side of the Bay of Peterhead ; lat. 57 9 N. ; Ion. 1 45 E. ; the most E. point of the main land of Great Britain. A lighthouse was erected here in 1824, height, 118 ft., built of granite. It exhibits a. flashing light, visible at a distance of 15 or IS in. when the atmos phere is clear. BUCHAREST, BUKARESHT, or BOKOREST [the city of enjoyment; Latin, Bucaresta], a city, cap. of Wallachia, in a spacious plain, in which is neither tree nor stone, 1. bank, Dumbovitza, which is crossed by a bridge ; lat. (metropolitan church) 44 25 39" N. ; Ion. 26 5 23" E. (L.) It is irregularly built, the houses generally miserable mud cabins, and the streets mostly unpaved. Where it is otherwise, they are merely boarded over or laid with logs, which half float in the liquid mud beneath. Mingled with this wretchedness, and present ing a strange appearance by contrast, are a number of hand- A STREET i.X BUCHAREST After M. DoussauJi. some houses, hotels, and churches a population in rags, and nobles tricked out in flaunting dresses and gaudy finery, with a curious and striking intermixture of Eastern and European dresses, which is to be seen, in fullest effect, on the corso or public walk, the great resort of the fashionable of the place. The town contains a palace, the residence of the hospodar or prince, a large old building ; the metropolitan church, both situated in a spacious square in the centre of the town ; 60 churches, each having from three to six steeples or towers ; VOL. I. a bazaar, several hospitals and infirmaries, 20 monasteries and convents, and about 30 khans or Oriental inns. From the centre of the town rises a tower 60 ft. in height, called the Fire Tower, from which a complete view of the city is com- 1 manded. The consular residences, of which there are several, are also handsome buildings, especially that of the Austrian j consul. The educational and literary institutions consist of a college, having 500 students; a lyceum, conducted by 12 professors, and a number of public schools, four of which ; afford instruction gratis ; a public library, a society for belles ; lettres, and another for agriculture. There are no extensive manufactures in the town, but it contains a great many artizans, particularly goldsmiths, jewel- | lers, and watchmakers. Small quantities of woollen cloths, carpets, brandy, &c., are made. Being situated in a fertile country, its trade, particularly in agricultural produce, is very considerable, exporting yearly large quantities of grain, wool, butter, honey, wax, and tallow, together with large herds of horned cattle and hogs, which are sent chiefly to Germany ; whence are imported, in return, many of the necessaries and luxuries of life. Bucharest has the unenviable reputation of being one of the most dissolute cities in Europe. It is filled with gambling-houses, and other resorts of vice and depravity. Of late years, however, it has improved in civilization, and an earnest and anxious desire for the diffusion of knowledge and education has begun to prevail. It is the seat of the Wallachian Government, and the place of residence of a Greek archbishop. In 1812, a treaty of peace was concluded here between Russia and Turkey, by which the latter yielded up to the former Bessarabia, and a portion of Moldavia; the river Pruth becoming the boundary between the two empires. In 1847, Bucharest suffered severely from fire, which destroyed about a fourth part of the town, including the church and con- ven* of the Franciscans, and the palace of the R. Catholic bishop. Pop. 60,000. BUCHARIA (GREAT), a name for BOKHARA, which see. BUCHARIA (LITTLE), a former name of a district of Tibet, now included in THIAN-CHAN-NAN-LOO, which see. BUCHAU, a tn. Wurtemberg, circle, Danube, 9 m. S.E. Riedlingen, S. side of Lake Feder, of which, at one time, it formed an island. It lies in a marshy position, has a fine church, a synagogue, and a castle. Pop. 1 983, of whom 598 are Jews. BUGHEN, a tn. Baden, circle, Lower Rhine, on the Morrebad, and on the highroad between, and almost equally distant from Heidelberg and Wiirzburg. It stands 1130 ft. above the level of the sea, and has a Gothic church, built in 1498, numerous mills, several breweries, and large stone quarries. The inhabitants live chiefly by agriculture and weaving. Pop. 2400. BUCHHOLZ [beech-wood], the name of numerous places in Germany. The most important is in Saxony, circle, Zwickau, .dist. of, and 8 m. S.E. Griinhain. Great part of the inhabit ants are employed in mining. Pop. 2791. BUCHLOWITZ, a market tn. Austria, Moravia, circle, Briinn, at the foot of a mountain chain, 26 m. W.S.W. 01- mu tz. It contains a castle belonging to the lords of Buchlau, a parish church, townhouse, and hospital, and has four fairs and cattle-markets. In the neighbourhood there is a sulphur bath. Pop. 1890. BUCHLYVIE, a vil. and burgh of barony, Scotland, co. of, and 13 in. "W. Stirling, on the road to Dumbarton. It has a chapel connected with the Established church, a U. Pres byterian church, and five annual fairs. Pop. 381. BUCINE, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 14 m. W. Arezzo, in a valley, on an affluent of the Arno. It is toler ably well built, having a spacious square, and a church, and is overlooked by a castle. Agriculture and cattle-rearing are the chief employments. Pop. 6326. BUCKBY (LONG), par. Eng. Northampton; 3900 ac. Pop. 2145. BUCKDEN, par. Eng. Huntingdon ; 3590 ac. P. 1209. BUCKEBURG, a tn., W. Germany, cap. of the princi pality of Lippe-Schaunibnrg, on the Aue, and at the foot of the Harrelberg, 6 m. E.S.E. Minden, in Westphalia. It is a walled town with five gates, and is well built, having hand some houses and spacious streets, with a palace in which the prince resides, three churches, and a synagogue ; a gymnasium, a library, a normal school, and an orphan hospital. Pop. 3250, BUCKENIIAM (NEW) 522 BUCKINGHAM BUCKENIIAM (\EW), a small tn. and par. England, Co. Norfolk. The town is situated on a plain, 15m. S.W. Norwich, and consists chiefly of two principal streets. Some of the houses are well built, but most of them indifferently. The better description are brick, the others clay lump. Supply of water ample. The town has been recently thoroughly under-drained, and the streets repaired, and put in good order. The church is a fine structure, in the perpendicular style. The other places of worship are three meeting-houses, belonging respectively to the Wesleyans, Ranters, and Free-Gospellers. There are several schools and minor charities, including some alms-houses. Area of par. 324 ac. Pop. 7 1 6. Two miles from New Buckenham, is the parish of Old Buckenham ; area, 5520 ac. Pop. 1255. BUCKENHAM, two pars. Em?. Norfolk: 1, 1020 ac. Pop. 60. 2, Buckenham (Little), 630 ac. Pop. 77. Bl CKEKELL, par. Eng. Devon; 2120 ac. Pop. 360. BUCKFASTLEIGH, a market tn. and par. England, co. Devon ; 3 m. S.W. Ashburton. The town is partly in a valley and partly on a hill, r. bank, Dart. It consists of five streets, somewhat tortuous and not very well kept ; houses strongly built of marl, and slate-roofed. Places of worship : one church, a Wesleyan chapel, and an Independent chapel. The church is a handsome building, in the Anglo-Norman style, with a lofty tower and spire, and elegant stained glass windows. The schools are a British, national, and several juvenile schools. The manufactures are woollens, leather, malt, and paper. The woollen trade employs generally from 1 200 to 1400 hands. A considerable trade in blankets, blanketings, serges, and miners cloth is also carried on. Area of par. 6270 ac. Pop. 2576. (Local Correspondent.) BUCKHAVEN, a fishing vil. Scotland, co. Fife, 10 m. S.S.W. Cupar. It consists of an assemblage of mean-looking cottages, scattered without order or arrangement, on the face of a steep ascent rising from the shore, without attempt at the formation of streets, or regularity, or system of any kind. It is, however, lighted with gas, and well supplied with water. | The inhabitants are a peculiar race of people, believed to be the descendants of the crew of a Brabant vessel, wrecked on the coast in the reign of James VI. They were long reckoned . the most ignorant and most uncultivated class of persons in ( Scotland, and were, on this account, made the subject of many humorous effusions, both in prose and verse, but they are now much improved, and not worse, in any respect, than other i similar communities. They are an industrious hard-working | class of men, and with exception of a few weavers, are all employed in sea-fishing. There are upwards of 100 fishing boats, of various dimensions, belonging to the village, manned by from six to eight men each ; the value of which, with their nets, has been estimated at about 20,000. About a quarter of a mile from the village is a U. Presbyterian church. Pop. (1850), estimated at 2000. (Local Correspondent.) BUCKHORN-WESTON, par. Eng. Dorset; 2080 ac. Pop. 460. BUCKIE, a considerable fishing vil. Scotland, co. of, and 16 m. W. Banff; at the mouth of the Burn of Buckie, between Speymouth and Cullen Bay, 5 m. E. the former. It has been a fishing station for many centuries ; and has a tolerable har bour. About 145 boats, large and small, are employed in the various fisheries. A small manufactory of ropes is carried on here. In the village there is a chapel connected with the Establishment, a Free church, an Episcopal chapel, and a R. Catholic chapel. Buckie is famed for the curing of haddocks. Pop. 2165. BUCKINGHAM, or BUCKS, an inland co. England; bounded, N. and N.W. by co. Northampton; N.E. and E. by cos. Bedford and Hertford ; S.E. by Middlesex, S.W. by co. Berks, and W. by Oxford ; its length, N. to S., is about 45 m.; greatest breadth, E. to W., 23 m. ; area, 472,320 ac., of which 440,000 are supposed to be arable. The vale of Aylesbury, stretching through the centre of the county, and celebrated for its fertility, furnishes rich pasturage for vast numbers of cattle and sheep. The soil in this part of the county is a strong clay loam, varying in depth from 2 ft. of rich staple, to only a few inches incumbent on stiff clay. But though well adapted for grazing, it is not considered suitable for tillage, and the portion, therefore, under the plough, is very small. In this district the tenures are principally from year to year a system which, notwithstanding its obvious disadvantages, is looked upon with considerable favour Ly most of the tenants. The average rent of land in the valo is from 25s. to 35s. an acre, the farms averaging from 300 to 600 acres. Agriculture is altogether in a very backward state in this county, chiefly owing to the reluctance of the landlords to be at any expense in effecting improvements. The order of cropping is not very definite, but generally consists of what is called three crops and a fallow, which begins with bare fallow, then wheat, then beans, pease, and clover, and last, wheat or barley. In working the land, two different descrip tions of ploughs are used one an old-fashioned wooden plough, for winter, and the other, a more modern iron-wheel plough, for summer. The depth of furrow turned up is from 4 to 5 inches. In winter, there are seldom fewer than four horses in a plough. The quantity of stock kept on these arable farms is quite inconsiderable. The average rent of arable land is about 30s. an acre. The farm accommodation generally, as to dwellings and out-houses, &c., is of the worst description, the latter being constructed mostly of rough timber, and thatched, with little regard to form or situation. Drainage, too, is much neglected. The labourers employed on grazing farms are from 10 to 14, on farms of from 300 to 400 acres; wages, from 9s. to 10s. a week. In the 8. parts are rich dairy farms. The stock of dairy cows, as estimated a few years ago, was about 27,000, of which upwards of 21.000 are always productive. Between 4,000,000 and 5,000,000 Ibs., or about 1900 tons of butter, are annually made in this county, the greater part of which is sent, by contract, to London. It is made up into lumps of two Ibs. each, and packed into osier baskets, called flats. Only a few cream cheeses, in sum mer, are made for the Buckingham, Aylesbury, and Wycombe markets. Hogs and ducks are reared in great numbers ; the former more especially on the dairy farms, where they are fed on skim and butter milk. The fattening of cattle is almost wholly confined to the vale of Aylesbury. The manufactures of Buckinghamshire are chiefly of thread lace, which furnishes employment to a great number of females and children ; paper, and straw plait. The former, however, has much declined since the rise of the machine lace manufacture of Nottingham. The mineral productions of this county are of no great importance. The county is watered by the Ouse, the Thame, and the Thames ; and is intersected by the Grand Junction Canal, and the London and North western Railway, and by some branches of both. It is divided into eight hundreds, and 202 parishes, and returns three mem bers to the House of Commons; constituency (1850), 5733. It gives the title of Earl to the family of Hobart Hampden. Pop. (1851), 163,723. BUCKINGHAM, a market tn., parl. bor., and par. Eng. land. The town, cap. of the co. of its own name, is 50 m. N.W. London, on the Bletchley and Buckingham branch of the London and North-western Railway; pleasantly situate on a peninsula formed by the Ouse, which almost encompasses the town, and is here crossed by three stone Vridges. The houses are mostly of brick; the streets straggling and irre gular; paved, and lighted with gas. The townhall and jail [ are large and commodious buildings. The church, erected in 1781, is a spacious structure, with a square tower, sur mounted by an elegant spire ; and there are, besides, places of worship for Independents, Wesleyans, and the Society of Friends ; and a free grammar-school, founded by Edward VI. ; and several alms-houses. The manufacture of lace, formerly carried on here to some extent, of late years has greatly de clined. Malting and tanning are carried on to a considerable extent ; and a good deal of business is done in wool and hops. In the vicinity are several limestone quarries, and one of marble- The borough returns two members to the House of Commons a privilege which it has enjoyed since the timo of Henry VIII. Its municipal government is vested in a mayor, four aldermen, and 12 councillors. Weekly market on Saturday; and one on Monday, exclusively for calves. Numerous fairs, chiefly for horses, cattle, and sheep. Buck ingham gives the title of Duke to the family of Temple. Area of par. 5330 ac. Pop. (1841), 4054. BUCKINGHAM, a co. Van Diemen s Land, bounded S. by the river Huon, from its source near the Frankland range, to its mouth in D Entrecasteaux Channel. Principal town, Ilobart Town, BUCKLAND 523 BUDDU BUCKLAND, 19 pars. Eng.: 1, par. Bucks; 1290 ac. the church of St. Anne s, and the church of the Capuchins. Pop. 537. 2, par. Hertford; 1590 ac. Pop. 435. 3, par. Kent; 850 ac. Pop. 1472. 4, par. Kent; 1340 ac. Pop. a memento of the plag 19. 5, par. Surrey; 2040 ac. Pop. 364. 6, Bucldand-with- \ Itaizenstadt are a R. Catholic church, a Greek church, and Carsiccll, par. Berks ; 4420 ac. Pop. 946. 7, Buckland with- j the mansion of the Greek bishop. The town contains in all Laverton, par. Gloucester; 2270 ac. Pop. 377. 8, Buck- 1 3 churches and a synagogue. There are also an archi-gyir In the Neustift stands a column dedicated to the Holy Trinity, a memento of the plague of 1710, 50 ft. high; and in the land-Brewer, par. Devon; 3970 ac. Pop. 1103. -9, Buck- land-Denhain, par. Somerset ; 1400 ac. Pop. 516. 10, Buck- land (East], par. Devon; 2340 ac. Pop. 167. 11, Buckland- Filleigh, par. Devon; 4550 ac. Pop. 275. 12, Buckland (St. Mary), par. Somerset; 3120 ac. Pop. 696. 13, Buck- land- Honaclwr urn, par. Devon; 6910 ac. Pop. 1411. 14, nasium, four monasteries, two high-schools, and many other schools, including one of design ; cabinets of natural history, a theatre, and public libraries. On the Blocksberg, an adjoin ing hill to the S., stands the new observatory (300 ft. above the level of the Danube), supplied with the best instruments and apparatus. Buda has numerous charitable institutions, Buckland-in-the- Moor, par. Devon; 1500 ac. Pop. 114. 15, j hospitals, infirmaries, asylums for orphans, &c., a lazaretto, Buckland- Newton, or Abbas, par. Dorset; 6770 ac. Pop. 914. ! and house of refuge for sailors ; manufactories of silks, velvets, 16, Buckland-Ripers, par. Dorset; 1410 ac. Pop. 118. linens, woollens, leather, tobacco, earthenware, a cannon- 17, Buckland-Toutsaints, par. Devon ; 1000 ac. Pop. 56. J foundry, and some coppersmiths works, but it is by no means 18, Buckland (West), par. Devon; 2290 ac. Pop. 275. ! a manufacturing town, its chief trade being in the fine red 19, Buckland (West), par. Somerset; 3500 ac. Pop. 887. wines, produced in the adjacent country, to the amount, in BUCKLEBURY, par. Eng. Berks; 6970 ac. Pop. 1277. favourable seasons, of four and a half million gallons yearly. BUCKLESHAM, par. Eng. Suffolk; 2310 ac. Pop. 255. BUCK MINSTER, par. Eng. Leicester ; 2080 ac. P. 697. BUCKNALL, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 2490 ac. Pop. 303. BUCKNELL, par. Eng. Oxford ; 1670 ac. Pop. 287. BUCKNILL, par. Eng. Hereford and Salop; 4160ac. Pop. 532. BUCKSPORT, a flourishing maritime tn., U. States, Maine, 1. bank, Penobscot river, with two academies, 15 schools, and a fine harbour, and considerable shipping. The harbour has sufficient depth of water for vessels of the largest class, and is not much obstructed by ice. Pop. 3015. BUCK WORTH, par. Eng. Huntingdon; 2290 ac. P. 100. BUCZACZ, or BUTSCHATSCH, a tn. Austria, Galicia, circle of, and 33 m. N.N. W. Zaleszcyry, traversed by the Scret. It contains a parish church, Basilian convent, and a gymnasium. Pop. of which 700 are Jews, 2200. BUDA [Sclavonian, Budin; German, Of en], a free city, Hungary, co. Pesth, with the city of which name its connection across the Danube, formerly maintained by a bridge of boats 490 yards long, is now perfected by one of the most magnifi cent suspension bridges in Europe; 133 m. E. S.E.Vienna; lat. (new observatory) 47 29 10" N.; Ion. 193 9"E. (L.) It is the residence of the viceroy or palatine, and the seat of govern ment, and metropolis of Hungary. It is built in the form of an amphitheatre, on the Schlossberg, the central part being in cluded in the fortress (Festung) or upper town, surrounded by walls and bastions. It has five suburbs, Wasserstadt, Lands- trasse, Neustift, Taban or Raizenstadt, and Christinastadt. The BUDA, as seen from Pesth, iho-A-ing the New Suapo fortress is regularly planned and laid out, with numerous handsome edifices and squares ; among other palaces is that of the Viceroy. The other buildings of note in this quarter are the parish church, garrison church, arsenal, townhall, house of assembly for the estates, government-offices, and residences of the public servants of the crown, civil and military ; the oniversity press, and type-foundry. In the Wasserstadt are There are here some celebrated hot sulphurous springs (tem perature 118), used as baths successively by the Romans, Turks, and Christians. Of these, three Turkish baths remain, and are much used by the common people. Buda is supposed to be named from Buda, a brother of j Attila, who resided in it occasionally, and greatly improved it. 0-Buda or Alt Ofen, a little further up the river, is the Sicam- bria of the Romans, and though not at any part in actual con tact with the modern Buda, is undoubtedly its embryo, having been a Roman station of some importance in the early part of the third century. Many Roman antiquities still exist within it, and though not equal to Buda, it contains several hand some buildings, and a considerable population. After many vicissitudes, Buda was taken in 1541 by the Turks, under Sultan the Magnificent, who introduced a garrison into it of 12,000 Janissaries, and reduced a great part of the king dom to the state of a Turkish province. It continued to be the seat of a Pasha until 1686, when it was re-taken by the Austrians, under the Duke of Lorraine and the margrave of Baden. Hither, in 1784, Joseph II. transferred the seat of government. The greatest modern improvement which both Buda and Pesth have received, is the suspension bridge, com pleted in 1849, at an expense of 650,000. Before the bridge was opened to the public, its stability was curiously and most severely tested, by the passage of the whole force of the Hungarians and Imperialists over it, the former hotly pursued by the latter. For nearly two days, the whole platform of the bridge was one dense mass of moving soldiers. Pop. (1846), exclusive of military, 40,500. BUD BROOKE, par. Eng. War wick ; 3050 ac. Pop. 508. BUDDEABAD, a strong Ghilji fort, Afghanistan, prov. Lughman ; lat. 34 55 N. ; Ion. 70 14 E. It is a square of 240 ft. each side ; and the walls, which are 25 ft. high, are pro tected by a deep ditch. In this fort M., the 63 British captives, who had been spared from the massacre on the at tempted retreat from Cabool, were for a short time imprisoned. BUDDU, a tn. Guinea, r. bank, ;; |7, Niger, 37 m. N.W. the junction of $.-. the Tchadda, and supposed to be chief l^-SSH^RlBfHww town of the native state of Kakanda. The huts are circular, built of clay, and over the summit of the cone of grass which forms the roof is placed an inverted black polished earthen pot, about 1 foot in diameter and 2 ft. deep, intended to prevent the huts >nage . from being struck by lightning. The people seem idle, and their canoes are inferior. The men generally have their heads shaven, leaving two or three circular patches of hair, and the women arrange their hair in small plaits hanging round the ears, and some have the head entirely shaved. A man may have as many wives as he can keep. In the dry season, small-pox, fever, bowel complaint, and sore eyes, are prevalent. Pop. 3000 or 4000. (Allen s Niger Expedition.} mm: 524 BUENOS AYRES BUDE, a vii. and small seaport, England, co. Cornwall, 2 m. W. Stratton. It has of late become a resort for bathing, and the Bude Canal has increased its trade. The harbour, on account of the saiul, is only accessible to small craft. BUDEAUX (ST.), par. Eug. Devon ; 2500 ac. Top. 790. BUDGE-BUDGE, or BHUJABHUJ, a small tn. Hindoo- stan,prov. Bengal, 1. bank, Hoogly, 10 m. S.W. Calcutta. BtJDINGEN, a tn. Hesse- Darmstadt, on the Seemanbach, 25 m. N.E. Frankfort, with a palace of the Duke of Isenberg- Biidingen, a church, synagogue, orphan hospital, gymnasium, and industrial school. It has also a paper-mill, a pin manu factory, and stone quarries. Pop. 2850. BUD 1 SSI N. See BAUTZEN. BUDLEIGH (EAST), par. Eng. Devon ; 2490 nc P. 2319. BUDOCK, par. Eng. Cornwall ; 3320 ac. Pop. 1979. BtJDOSHEGY, a mountain, Transylvania, belonging to the Carpathians ; lat. 46 12 N. ; Ion. 25 40 E. It is 7340 ft. high, stands completely isolated, being surrounded on all sides by valleys, is of a conical shape, rather steep, and on its lower sides densely wooded. Strong sulphur springs rise at its foot, and throughout it contains numerous caverns which emit sul phurous vapour. This condenses, and is deposited in solid sulphur on the sides. BUDOSO, a vil., isl. Sardinia, prov. of, and 40 m. E. Sassari, in the midst of a mountainous but pastoral district. Pop. 2000. BUDRAWAR [stronghold of Buddha], a tn. Punjab, delightfully situated in a picturesque and highly cultivated country, on the S. slope of the Himalayas, near 1. bank, Chenab, 5000 ft. above the sea level ; lat. 32 53 N.; Ion. 75 28 E. It has a large square fort built of stone, and a well-supplied bazaar. A considerable portion of the inhabit ants are weavers of the celebrated Cashmere shawls, about 250 looms being employed in the manufacture. Pop. about 2000. BUDUKSHAN, BADAKSHAN, or FYZABAD, a tn. Inde pendent Tartary, cap. dist. of same name ; depending on the khanate of Koondooz, r. bank of a river of the same name ; 180 m. N.E. Cabool; lat. 36 25 N.; Ion. 71 37 E. It was once capital of an independent sovereignty, and a place of great importance ; celebrated in particular, from early times, for the valuable mines of ruby in its neighbourhood. Since its subjugation by the chief of Koondooz, it has been a prey to a lawless soldiery. In 1832, great part of it was de stroyed by an earthquake ; and scarcely a vestige of its former importance remains. Its walls are levelled, and even its ruins swept away. On a rock, on the opposite bank of the river, the dilapidated walls of a ruined fort are still standing. The district around is remarkably beautiful ; and both naiives and visitors give rapturous descriptions of its romantic vales and rivulets ; its fruits, flowers, and nightingales. The inhabitants, said to have come originally from the city of Balkh, speak Persian ; and were, at one time, so hospitable, that bread was never sold in their country. Their misfortunes, in drying up the sources, have also, iu part, quenched the spirit of hos pitality. BUDWE1S, a tn. Bohemia, cap. circle of same name, 75 m. S. Prague, on the Moldau, at its junction with the Malsch. It is regularly built, and partly fortified ; and is the see of a bishop, suffragan to Prague. It has a cathedral, founded in 1297, seven churches, a monastery of Piarists, a gymnasium, an extensive custom-house, a handsome town- house, arsenal, a theatre, a diocesan school of theology, a philosophical institute, and several courts of justice. It possesses manufactures of woollens, muslins, damasks, and linseed oil ; dyeworks, saltpetre-works, a beet-root sugar, and a large wool-combing establishment. It has also a consider able trade in leather and shoes, sent to Vienna and Prague ; and in wood, transported along the Moldau. A railway to Linz, completed in 1832, and subsequently carried on to Gmiinden; originally intended only for the transport of salt, now annually conveys a large tonnage in general goods, and numerous pas sengers. Pop. 8135. The CIRCLE of Budweis is the most S., and the most elevated part of Bohemia. It is watered by the Moldau, and its tributaries, the Malsch and Luschnitz ; contains extensive forests and pastures, and abounds in game. Cattle and sheep are reared in great numbers ; and large quantities of grain produced ; the mountains supply coals, iron, and other minerals. Manufactures : cottons, woollens, paper, glass, and ironware. The canal of Schwarzenberg connects the Moldau with the Danube. The circle contains eight towns, 29 market towns, and 897 villages. Area, 1G65 sq. m. Pop. 212,540. BUDWORTII, two pars. Eng. Chester:!, Bmlicorth (Great), 36,450 ac. Pop. 17,103. 2, Budwortu (Little), 2630 ac. Pop. 599. BUENAVENTURA. 1, A tn. Mexico, State Chihua hua; lat. 29 55 N.; Ion. 10G 30 W. ; 140 m. N.W. the city of Chihuahua. It is small, but well built ; and contains about 1500 inhabitants. About 10 m. N.W. from the town, there are very extensive ruins, called Casas Grandes. An area of several square miles is covered with the remains of buildings, which, from their number, are supposed to have contained a population of at least 20,000 or 30,000. Fine earthenware jars have been excavated here, as well as images, made of baked earth. 2, A tn. on the coast of Upper or New California, in Santa Barbara Channel, opposite isl. Santa Cruz; lat. 34 15 N. ; Ion. 119 5 W. It has a tolerably good roadstead. A great variety of fruits are produced in the vicinity the soil and climate both being favourable to their production. The town was founded in 1782. 3, A seaport, New Granada, prov. Buenaventura, dep. Cauca, Bay of Choco, on a small island called Kascakral, near the mouth of the Dagua, at the head of a bay or harbour ; lat. 3 50 N. ; Ion. 77 18 W. It is very insignificant as a town, consisting only of a small assemblage of huts, inhabited by negroes and mulattoes ; a small barrack, and a battery, a custom-house, and the residence of the governor ; the latter constructed of straw and bamboo. It has, however, a considerable trade, importing salt, onions, garlic, straw hats, and hammocks ; and exporting rum, sugar, and tobacco. The harbour or bay has a considerable extent and depth of water, a good bottom, and offers ample accommodation and safe anchorage for ships of war. But the climate is unhealthy, and provisions scarce and dear. 4, A river, Mexico. See SACRAMENTO. BUEN AVISTA. 1, A vil., isl. Teneriffe; lat. 28 C 16 N. ; Ion. 16 58 W. ; on an elevated plain, 925 ft. above the sea ; it is well built, has a spacious square, several wide and straight streets, a parish church, several chapels, and three schools. Manufactures : ribbons, and silk stockings. Ex ports : manufactured goods, wine, and fruits. Imports : wearing apparel, hardware, agricultural implements, &c. Pop. 2205. 2, A tn. Mexico, prov. Sonora, r. bank, Huaqui, about 98 m. from its embouchure in the Gulf of California ; lat. 27 35 N. ; Ion. 110 7 W. BUEN AYRE. See BONAIRE. BUENOS AYRES, one of the 13 united pro vs. of La Plata, or the Argentine Republic, lying between the rivers Negro on the S., and the Parana on the N. It is bounded, N. by pro vs. Mendoza, San Luis, Cordova, Santa Fe, and Entre Kios, from the last of which it is separated by the Parana, E. by the river La Plata and the Atlantic Ocean, S. by Patagonia, from which it is separated by the river Negro, and W. by the Andes, which separate it from Chili. It ex tends thus from about lat. 33 10 to 40 S., and from Ion. 56 33 to about 71 80 W., measuring, N. to S., about 540 m., and E. to W. about 750. The coast line, exclusive of minute sinuosities, is about 750 m. The province presents, nearly throughout, one vast level or slightly undulating sur face, known as the pampas of Buenos Ayres, a large portion of which has a fertile soil for arable culture or pasturage; but little of the former is attempted, although grain, fruit, and vegetables thrive well, and with proper industry might be produced in great abundance. The rich pastures of the pam pas are covered with long, tufted, luxuriant grass, intermixed with brilliant flowers, affording an inexhaustible subsistence to several millions of cattle and horses. The S. and less favoured parts are sandy, with patches of saline plants, stunted trees, and numerous salines. Having little slope, the pampas have few running waters, the only streams of any magnitude being the Negro and the Colorado in the S., and the smaller river Salado in the central parts. There are, however, a vast number of salt pools and lakes, of various dimensions, dis persed over the country, the salt in which forms with extra ordinary rapidity in dry weather, and is beautifully white and finely crystallized, requiring no purification before being car ried to market. About 450 m. S.W. by W. from Buenos Ayres, there is a very large salt lake, called Urro Lauqucu BUENOS AYRES 525 BUENOS AYRES [bitter lake], about 30 m. long, and 15 broad, from which that city drew its annual supplies of salt, before the port was thrown open to foreigners. The climate of the province is generally healthful, being in the S. parts similar to that which prevails in Europe, above lat. 50 N. In the N. districts it is warmer, the thermometer in summer rising to about 90 J . Both regions have sufficient rain for vegetation. The N. winds are unpleasant, resembling the sirocco of Italy, and those from the 8.W. sometimes ex tremely violent, and accompanied by thunder and lightning. The extremes of heat and cold are considerable, and the changes of temperature often sudden and violent-. Cattle and agricultural produce form the chief sources of wealth. Hides, horns, hair, tallow, salt beef, peltry, and wool, are the principal exports. Bullocks and horses are the main articles of trade in the country, constituting its legal tender. The former are worth from 20s. to 40s., according to age; wild horses, 8s. or 13s., and if broken to the saddle, 10s. or 60s. For commercial statistics, see following article on the city of BUENOS AYRES ; see also PLATA (LA) REPUBLIC OF. Pop. about 200,000. BUENOS AYRES [good air], cap. of the above prov., and seat of the general government of the republic ; lat. 34 36 29" S. ; Ion. 58 23 34" W. ; S.W. shore of the estuary of the river La Plata, which is here about 30 m. in breadth, and at the distance of about 150 in. from the point where the latter joins the sea. The city stands on a slightly elevated ridge, running parallel with the river, and is built with great regularity and neatness, but is somewhat mono tonous. The streets intersect each other at right angles at BUENOS AYRES I. Cathedra!. I. University. 4. I lazi ,le la Victor . Plazn iM Comercio. . I b. ii At 1:, Intemiencii . l l;,/.:i <ii-l Buen Orclre. . Plaza de Lona. every 150 yards, and form numerous squares of considerable extent, but of little architectural beauty. They are also broad, spacious, and now pretty well paved, but were formerly all but impassable with mud in wet weather, and with dust in dry. The granite with which the streets are paved, is ob tained from some islands in the river above the town. The houses which are built, the older of sun-dried, the more modern of burnt brick have been greatly improved of late years. Almost every house has a garden before, and another behind ; and many have balconies, with lattice-work for con taining shrubs and flowers. The windows of the houses towards the street, generally two in number, are often without glass, having, instead, an iron grating, called re/a, which gives them a gloomy and prison -like appearance. The floors are gen erally paved with brick, the use of wood in their construction being avoided as much as possible. The principal square or plaza faces the La Plata, and is surrounded by handsome build ings, including the palace of the Viceroy, the townhall, and the cathedral, a structure with a cupola and portico of good workmanship. The other public buildings are the churches of St. Francis and St. John, the latter situated on the skirts of the town, being appropriated exclusively for the use of the Christian Indians ; the Convent of Mercy, and several other convents and nunneries ; two hospitals, one for men and one for I women ; an orphan hospital, a foundling hospital, and a college, j possessing a library of 20,000 volumes. Connected with the [ college are a collection of objects of natural history, an obser- i vatory, a mathematical school, a public school, and a school for painting and drawing. Several other literary and scientific institutions have been established since the Revolution, in cluding a society for the promotion of natural philosophy and mathematics, two academies (one of medicine, the other of jurisprudence), a normal school, and an association for the pro motion of agriculture. The town is but indifferently supplied with fresh water, there being no public cisterns, and the wells, though numerous, being all brackish. The only supply is from the river, the water from which is carried about in butts, mounted on bullock carts, and sold at a high price. It is at first hot, muddy, and undrinkable, but after being allowed to settle for 24 hours, it becomes very excellent. Most of the wealthier families have large deep tanks, in which the rain that falls on the flat roofs of the houses is collected. The environs of the city, for a distance of 8 or 10 m., are very beautiful, consisting of a well-cultivated country, interspersed with gardens and groves, and enlivened by numerous country resi dences, called qnintas; every person in competent circum stances having his country seat, with a large and well-stocked garden attached. The trade, and consequently the prosperity of Buenos Ayres, is much impeded by the difficulties of the navigation of the La Plata, and the want of a safe and com modious harbour. Large vessels, drawing 16 or 17 ft. water, cannot approach nearer than from 8 to 10m., and even the lighters employed to unload them are often swamped in crossing the bar between the outer and inner roads. The surf on the beach is also very heavy when it blows fresh. Another danger arises from the pamperos, sudden and violent gusts of wind, which sweep across the pampas from the Andes with tremendous fury. The vessels entered and cleared, in the following years, were : Entered. Ckared. Vessels. Tons. Ves.els. Tons. 1841 408 83,091 493 101,858 1842 421 78,594 385 74,371 1843 549 105,238 438 84,117 Buenos Ayres imports cotton, linen, woollen, and silk manufactured goods, hardware, jewellery, earthenware, glass, leather, hats, wines, &c. ; and exports ox and horse hides, sheep, chinchilla, nutria, otter, and other skins, tallow, salted beef, horse hair, horns, wool, &c., the last being greatly on the increase ; but its trade has been much damaged by the un settled state of political matters, and by the long blockade it sustained in recent years. The following Tables convey some idea of the extent and nature of the export trade, repre senting, of course, nearly the total exports of the whole republic of La Plata, which possesses no other seaport of any note : Amount of Exports Tutsi Exports. shipped in British Vessels. 1841 2,626,376 746,029 1842 1,440,440 218.677 1843 437,262 TOTAL QUANTITIES o/ PRINCIPAL ARTICLES EXPORTED in 18i2, 1843, and 1844. 1842. 1843. MM. Hides Ox number- Cow Quantities. 1,015,384 382 429 Quantities. 1,449,816 549 510 Quantities. 1,087,794 726 351 Horse Skins Nutria Ibs Chinchilla dozen.... Sheep Goat 45,817 416,878 200 93,181 68,214 96,585 592 98,003 39 095 39,984 21,258 277 124,301 Calf Deer ... Otter CWtS 5,281 9,541 98,003 2,504 2791 124,3f,l 6,467 Horse hair Wool 18,961 801 584 23,383 111 807 16,fifi3 Io6 347 Beef Taiio- ;;; Bones Paring of hides Candles Ostrich Feathers Horns number.. 122,001 80,122 55,660 9,586 1,026 ,000 159,671 370.3U1 10300 4,933 1,068 1S8 1,124,439 307,344 139,317 29,340 12,618 1.27M21 The majority of the inhabitants of Buenos Ayres, who are said to be observant and intelligent, are the descendants of BUFFALO 526 BUGULMA Spaniards, who have settled in the country during the last three centuries. The climate is said to be healthy, but vari able, the temperature rising as high as 90 in the shade, and sinking as low as 35 40 , and subject to sudden and violent changes. Deaths in the city estimated at 1 in 32, and in the country at 1 in 40. The town was founded in 1580 by Don Juan de Garay, and in 1776 was made the seat of a vice- royalty, and in 1778 the port was thrown partially open by tiie Spaniards, from which time the city increased rapidly. Pop. about 80,000 or 100,000, of which probably one-fifth are foreigners, chiefly English and French. (Sir W. Parish s Buenos Ayres, <c. ; Nopitsch, Kaufmannische BcTtchete gesam- melt avfeiner Jicise urn die Welt; Purl. Papers.} BUFFALO, rivers, lakes, &c. : 1, A river, S. Africa, British Kaffraria, formed by the junction of several streams, and so called from a point about 4 in. below, or S.E. King William s Town ; lat. 32 53 S. ; Ion. 27 30 E. ; and which, after a course of about 25 m., falls into the Indian Ocean at lat. 33 7 S.; Ion. 27 45 E. 2, A river, S. Africa, Cape Dis trict, falls into the Atlantic, 1 8 m. N. Cape Town. 3, A vil. in the same dist., 50 m. N.N.E. Cape Town. 4, A river, Cape Colony, dist. Graff Reynet, has its sources in the Snow Moun tains of that territory, about lat. 32 2 S. ; Ion. 24 17 E. ; and after a course of about 60 m., first W., and latterly S. and S.E., falls into Karreeka, in lat. 32 28 S. ; Ion. 23 28 E. 5, A river, Texas, dist. Harrisburg, formed by several streams AY. and S.W. Houston, formrely the cap. of Texas, and to which town it is navigable by steamers from the Bay of San Jacinto, communicating with the Gulf of Mexico. 6, A small lake, U. States, N.W. territory; lat. 43 45 N.; Ion. 89 10 W. 7, A lake, Sioux territory, U. States, in lat. (centre) 45 45 N.; Ion. 96 30 W.; about 28 m. in length, and 5 in breadth. In high floods, boats can pass from this lake to Big Stone Lake, situated a little S.E. 8, A lake, British N. America, dist. Saskatchawan ; lat. 51 45 N. ; Ion. 113 W.; about 20 m. in length, and 10 in breadth. 9, A lake, British N. America, dist. English River; lat. 55 40 N. ; Ion. 108 W.; about 30 m. in length; broadest part, 20 m. ; it is connected by small rivers with several other lakes. 10, A lake, British N. America, about 100 m. E. of Great Bear Lake, in the territory of the Copper Indians, in lat. (centre) 67 KX N.; Ion. 111 \V.; length, 21 m.; breadth, 20m. BUFFALO, islands, capes, rocks, &c.:l, An isl., off E. coast, Cochin China; lat. 14 11 N.; Ion. 109 16 E. (R.); it is a convex rock of sloping form, and moderately elevated. 2, Two or three small islets, Mindoro Sea, centre of the Philippine group, a little N.W. of Point Potol, N.W. extre mity of isl. Panay; about lat. 1 1 53 N.; Ion. 121 50 E. They are called also the Caravaos. 3, A point or cape. W. coast, isl. Sumatra: lat. 3 58 S.; about 2 m. S. of the W. ]K)int of Pulo or Poolo Bay. Coast here generally bold, with high mountains inland. 4, A group of detached rugged rocks, Bay of Bengal, off the W. coast of Burmah, about 20 in. due N. Cape Negrais; lat. 16 19 to 16 22 30" N. Ion. 94 12 E. They extend nearly N. and S., about 3 m., and are about 3 m. from the shore. 5, A small isl., E. Sea, off the E. coast of China, Chusan Archipelago ; lat. 29 42 N. ; Ion. 121 15 E. Its E. shore is rocky, and on its W. side are several steep inlets, one of which nearly separates the island in two parts. It rises into three peaks, one of which is 500 ft. high. Fresh provisions and water may be obtained here, but the supply of the latter is not always certain. The island is familiarly known by the name of Buffalo s Nose, from a large perforation near its N. extremity. BUFFALO, a city, port of entry, U. States, state of New York, on the outlet of Lake Erie, at the head of the Niagara river, on Buffalo Creek, which constitutes its harbour, 22 m. S. the Falls of Niagara. It is a pleasant and thriving town, the houses in general well-built, and the streets broad and regular. Main street is 2 m. long, and 120 ft. wide. The hotels are numerous and handsome. It contains a court-house, a jail, three banks, 17 churches, a literary and scientific academy, a lyceum, and two theatres. The harbour is spacious and safe, having 12 or 14 ft. water 1 mile from its entrance into the lake, but is not unfrequently choked up with ice. There are 50 or 60 steamers, 300 schooners, and other craft, engaged in the commerce between Buffalo and the W., by Lake Erie and the connected lakes. The tonnage, in 1840, was 4916. Buffalo is connected with Black Rock and with Niagara Falls by railways. Pop. (1840), 18,213; (1845), 29,773. BUFFALO is also the name of a number of small rivers, towns, villages. &c., in the U. States. BUG, or Boo, two rivers, Russia: 1, A tributary to the Vistula, falling into it on its r. bank, at Modi in, in Poland. It rises near the village of Harbuzow, in Galicia (Austria), and proceeding N. along the E. frontiers of Volhynia and Grodno, which it separates from the kingdom of Poland, reaches Brest- Litov, where, on its r. bank, it receives the Pena, its most im portant affluent. Thence entering the kingdom of Poland first, it proceeds N.W. to Nur, where it receives the Nurtschik. From this point it flows almost due W., and, shortly after re ceiving the Narew, falls into the Vistula, near Modlin, about 20 m. N.N.W. Warsaw. It has a course of 434 m., and is navigable for nearly 300. 2, [anc. Hyi>anis\, A river which rises near the confines of Volhynia, in the N.W. of gov. Podolsk, and proceeds first E., and then S.E., through that gov. to Oliviopol, where it enters gov. Kherson, which it traverses almost centrally from N. to S., and falls into the estuary of the Dnieper, near Kherson. Its chief affluents are the Ingul, Balta, Tchertal, and Solonicha. The chief towns on its banks, besides those mentioned, are Bratslav, Voznesensk, and Nikolaev. It has a course of above 400 m., but its navi gation is greatly obstructed by rocks and sandbanks. BUGBROOK, par. Eng. Northampton; 2420 ac. P. 953. BUGGENHOUT, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. E. Flanders, and 4 m. E. Termonde, on the railway between that place and Mechlin ; with breweries, vinegar-works, a ropery, and a snuff, a lint, and a corn mill. Pop. 3761. BUGIA, or BOUJEIAH. See BOUOIAH. BUGIS, a people, Indian Archipelago, chiefly inhabiting Macassar and Boni, in isl. Celebes. They are muscular, middle-sized, and of a light brown colour, some being even fair. Their dress consists of a piece of red or blue striped cotton, which they wrap about their loins, and pass between their legs. They bind their jet black hair very tastefully, in a red or blue cotton handkerchief. They pluck out the hair of their beards, and ornament their arms and legs with brass wire above the wrists and ankles, and to these the children attach bells. They are, to the last degree, sanguinary, re vengeful, crafty, and treacherous, and it is rarely that thoy see an enemy without circumventing him, and depriving him of his life. On the other hand, under good treatment, they have often been found, even as slaves, faithful and obedient. Their weapons are the creese and the assagay, a club of the hardest wood, 8 ft. long. The original country of the Bugis of Wayu, who are the most enterprising navigators of the Indian Islands, is the banks of the great fresh-water lake Tapara- Karaja, in the N. part of the S.W. peninsula of Celebes, and communicating by rivers navigable for the largest native craft, both with the Bay of Boni on the E., and with the sea on the W. The voyage from the shores of the lake begins with the E. monsoon, the prahus trading as they proceed W., until they reach Ithio, or even Malacca and Acheen, when they are prepared to return with the change of the season. They take with them native cotton cloths, gold-dust, nutmegs, Spanish dollars, birds nests, camphor, benzoin or frankin cense, and tortoise-shell ; and return with European broad cloths and cottons, opium, unwrought iron, and tobacco, which they partly sell at the intermediate ports as they sail home wards. This is their most important voyage, but they make many subordinate ones for collecting birds nests, feather:?, tortoise-shell, trepang, &c. BUGTHORI E, par. Eng. York, E. Riding; 1990 ac. Pop. 296. BUGUE (LE), a tn. France, dep. Dordogne, 23 m. S.E. Perigueux, r. bank, Vezere, near its confluence with the Dordogne. It has blast-furnaces, malleable ironworks, manu factures of nut-oil, serges, bombazines, and woollen goods ; and is the entrepot for the wine and produce of the basin of the Vezere, which are shipped here for Bordeaux. In the vicinity is the extensive grotto of Miremont. Pop. 1240. BUGULMA, or BOUGOULMA, a tn. Russia, gov. Oren burg, cap. dist., and on a small river of same name, 130 m. W.S.W. Oufa. It is well and regularly built, and contains two churches. Its trade, which is extensive, is chiefly in cotton and woollen goods, and it has two important annual fairs. Pop. 4700. BttHL 527 BULACAN Bt)HL,a tn. Baden, circle, Middle Rhine, on the Biihllot, and on the railway from Carlsruhe to Freiburg, 20 m. N.E. Strasburg, with a considerable stocking factory, and dyeworks both of blue and Turkey red. The weekly market of Biihl is important. At Sasbach, about 3 m. from Biihl, is an obelisk of granite, marking the spot where the celebrated Marshal Turenne was killed. Pop. 2800. Numerous places in Germany have the name of BUHL. BUILUWAS, par. Eng. Salop; 2950 ac. Pop. 273. BUILTH, or LLANVAIR-YN-MUALLT, a tn. and par., S. Wales, co. Brecon. The TOWN is 12 m. S.W. New Radnor, delightfully situated on the Wye, here crossed by a bridge of six arches. It consists of two parallel streets, and a few lanes, forming irregular terraces on the side of a declivity ; and has a parish church, and chapels for Baptists, Independents, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists ; several schools, and the remains of an ancient castle. Weekly market on Monday; four cattle-fairs are held annually. In the PAKISH are several mineral springs, which are a source of great attraction to visitors. Llewelyn, the last of the native sovereigns of Wales, was slain in the neighbourhood, in an engagement with the English, in 1282. Pop. 1203. BUIRONFOSSE, a vil. France, dep. Aisne, 9 m. N.N.W. Yervins, and the centre of a considerable manufacture of sabots. Pop. 1465. BUIS (LE), [box-tree], a tn. France, dep. Drome, 48 m. S.S.E. Valence, ori the Ouveze. It is meanly built, but has some fine promenades, and a public market-place, planted with a double row of trees ; silk-mills, oil-works, and tanneries, with trade in wool, cloth, and silk. In the vicinity the box- tree grows in great quantity. Pop. 1928. BUITENPOST, a vil. Holland, prov. Friesland, 16 m. E. by N. Leeuwarden. It is a pleasant- looking village, has a Calvinistic church, and a school ; and its inhabitants sub sist chiefly by agriculture and cattle-rearing. Pop. 800. BU1TENZORG, a prov., dist., and tn., isl. Java. The PROVINCE or RESIDENCY is bounded, N. by that of Batavia, E. by Krawang, S. by the Preanger Regencies, and W. by Bantam ; and forms an oblong of 747 sq. m., with 900 villages, and 270 hamlets. The S. is mountainous, of which the high est peaks, Sulak and Pangerango, are 8000 ft. above the sea. To its innumerable streams, many canals have been added for the increased irrigation of the soil. The climate is mild, and the higher grounds much resorted to by European invalids. The tiger and rhinoceros abounds in the S. and W. The useful products are, horses, buffaloes, and oxen ; rice, coffee, sugar, edible birds nests, hides, potatoes, and green veget ables for Batavia. The great Java highway crosses the re sidency N. to S. The DISTRICT, still called by the natives Bogor, which was changed into Buitenzorg by Sir T. S. Raffles, after the name of a country house, first erected by General Van Imlioff, and enlarged by Marshal Daendels, is proved, by numerous ancient remains, to have been in a highly prosperous condition previous to the civil wars, which con vulsed that part of Java at the first introduction of Mahomet- anism. These made it a wilderness in the strictest sense of the word ; its temples and useful constructions were left in ruins, and tigers, wild boars, and other dangerous animals so multiplied, that prayers were put up at Batavia for the Gover nor-General s safety whenever he ventured into it. Its fine climate and fertility, however, together with its nearness to Batavia, pointed it out, above a century ago, as peculiarly adapted for European residences ; and an express grant was then made of it to Imlioff, and his successors in the govern ment, for that purpose. A plain house was erected by Imlioff himself, and was soon followed by many more, by other functionaries and wealthy persons ; so that a fine village or small town rose, at length, in the bosom of the wilderness, while, at the same time, the cultivation of the ground was sedulously resumed. The TOWN is 30 m. S. Batavia, and 600 ft. above the level of the sea. Among other handsome buildings, the present palace of the Governor-General is par ticularly distinguished. It presents a central pavilion, sur mounted by a dome and two long wings, ornamented with peristyles. Close by there is a large garden, in which all the most useful and curious vegetable productions of the Indian Archipelago are to be found, arranged and tended by a highly scientific botanist. (Van dur Aa; Ilaussman, Voyage en Chine, ct c.) BUTTRAGO, a tn. Spain, New Castile, prov. of, and 40 m. N. Madrid. It was formerly walled, and has two squares, a parish church, chapel, townhouse, two schools, and an hospital. Pop. 1506. BUITTLE, par. Scot. Kirkcudbright; length, 8 m. ; breadth, 3 m. Pop. 1059. BUJALANCE, a city, Spain, Andalusia, pror. of, and 21 m. E. by N. Cordova, on an elevated plain in a mountain ous district. It has two squares, and numerous wide and paved, though crooked streets ; a parish, and several con- ventical churches; a Latin, and two other schools; and a ladies college ; townhouse, storehouse, two hospitals, a prison, several fountains, and, overlooking the town, an Arab castle, surrounded by an embattled wall and moat, flanked with seven dilapidated towers, in one of which is its portal. Manufac tures : cloth and woollen fabrics, earthenware, and glass. Trade: exporting wheat, oil, and industrial produce, and importing wool. A large cattle-fair is held in August and September. Pop. 8936. BUK, or $DCK, a tn. Prussia, cap. circle of same name, gov. of, and 17 m. W.S. W. Posen, with five churches, and considerable manufactures of linen, leather, and shoes. It has also several distilleries. Pop. 2298. The CIRCLE, area, 268 geo. sq. m., is level, well watered, well wooded, and fertile, producing good crops of corn, flax, hops, and garden- fruits, and rearing great numbers of cattle. Pop. 44,594. BUKKEV, an isl. Norway, W. coast, prov. Christian- sand, bail. Stavanger, in the Bukke-Fjord; lat. 59 12 N. ; Ion. 5 22 E. ; with a vil. of same name. The Bukke or Bukken-Fjord, is an arm of the sea, extending about 35 m. inland, with a breadth of 10 to 15 m., and is covered with numerous islets. Its N.E. part is called the Naerstrands- Fjord, and its N. part the Skjolds-Fjord. BUKKUR.- 1, A fortress, Scinde, on an isl. of same name, in the Indus ; the channel which divides it from Roree, on the 1. bank of the river, being 1200 ft. wide, and 35 deep; and that which divides it from Sukkur, on the r. bank, being 294 ft. wide, and 15 deep; lat. 27 41 N.; Ion. 68 52 E. The island is a limestone rock, 2400 ft. long, 900 wide, and 27 high. It is almost covered by the fortress, which has double walls of brick, from 30 to 35 ft. high, with bastions, loop-holes, and a parapet. 2, A tn. Punjab, on a small offset of, and about 3 m. E. the Indus ; lat. 31 39 N.; Ion. 71 7 E. ; in a fertile district, and abundantly supplied with cheap provisions. Pop. 5000. BUKOWINA, a duchy, Austria, in E. Galicia, and re cently called the circle of Czernowitz, between lat. 47 20 and 48 40 N. ; and Ion. 24 45 and 26 20 E. ; greatest length, N. to S., 104 m. ; average breadth, about 65 m. ; area, 2944 geo. sq. m. The whole circle is traversed by ramifica tions of the Carpathians, and much of the surface is occupied by swamps and forests. The principal rivers are the Pruth, Dniester, Suczawa, Seret, Moldawa, and Bistritza. The climate is, on the whole, mild and salubrious. The chief mineral production is salt. Gold is found in the sands of the Bistritza. Not much corn is grown, but great attention is paid to the rearing of cattle and bees. The trade, chiefly .n the hands of Jews and Armenians, is confined to horses, horned cattle, hides, wool, wax, and honey. The capital of the circle is Czernowitz. Bukowina was united to Galicia in 1777, and from 1786 to 1849 it formed the circle of Czer nowitz. In the latter year it was re-constituted a duchy. Pop. 208,498. BULACAN, a prov. and tn. Philippines, isl. Luzon, at the head of the Bay of Manilla. The PROVINCE is the smallest "n the island, but the most productive, the best cultivated, and said to be the healthiest place in the whole archipelago. It is intersected by numerous small rivers, the banks of which are extremely fertile, and are covered with trees ; all these streams fall into Manilla Bay. Gold, iron, the latter said to be of excellent quality, and inexhaustible in quantity; coal, ala baster, limestone, and building stone, are found. Amethysts, topazes, and emeralds, are said to exist ; and good slate is to be obtained, but is not wrought to any extent. The principal agricultural productions are rice, maize, sugar, indigo, and some tobacco. The forests are inhabited by wild boars, oxen, buffaloes, wild horses, and a great variety of birds, including turtle doves. A large portion of the population on the coast is employed in fishing : and of those in the interior, a number BTTLAMA 52 R BULTI eke out a scanty subsistence by washing the auriferous sands i of the rivers. A still greater number are engaged in weaving, and in manufacturing various fabrics.- -The TOWN, cap. of the prov., is about 22 m. N.W. Manilla; lat. 14 J 50 N. ; Ion. 120 50 E. ; and is connected with the latter by an ex cellent road. The streets are spacious, and the houses of wood, with exception of the church, the. residence of the chief magistrate, and the government-house, all of which are of stone. Among the inhabitants are many wealthy sugar-manu facturers ; a great number are also employed in manufacturing various kinds of fabrics, particularly mats or carpets of silk. The environs of Bulacan are extremely picturesque. Pop. if tn. 9803; of the entire prov. 179,000. (Mallat s Philip pines.} BULAMA, one of the Bissago Islands, W. coast, Africa, 18 m. long, and generally about 9 broad, although, in many places, a good deal more; lat. (W. point) 11 31 18" N.; Ion. 15 37 8" W. (c.) The land rises gradually from the shore to the centre of the island, where it attains the height of 1 00 ft. In 1792, an attempt was made by an English company, called the Bulama Association, to establish a colony in this island; but the colonists, about 275 persons, dissipated and unprin cipled, were cut off by disease, except a miserable remnant, who, in 1793, sailed for Sierra Leone. BULAVAD1N, a tn. Asiatic Turkey, pash. Anatolia, 25 m. E. Afium-Kara-Hissar; lat. 38 44 N. ; Ion. 31 7 E. Pop. 3000. BULFORD, par. Eng. Wilts; 41GO ac. Pop. 307. BULGARIA [anc. Mcesia Inferior], a prov. Turkey in Europe, between lat. 42 8 and 44 10 N.; and Ion. 22 14 and 29 36 E. ; bounded, N. by the Danube, which separates it from Wallachia, the S.E. corner of Moldavia, and Bess arabia ; E. the Black Sea, S. the Balkan Mountains, which separate it from Roumelia and Macedonia ; and W. by Servia ; length, from E. to W. about 320 m. ; average breadth, about 100 m.; area, 27,840 geo. sq. in. The whole province may be regarded as consisting of a vast inclined plain, descending N. with more or less abruptness, from the ridges of the Bal kan to the banks of the Danube, and of a smaller and much lower inclined plain which slopes E. to the Black Sea, to the basin of which the whole province belongs, to a small ex tent directly, but by means of the Danube and its tributaries, ! to a much greater extent indirectly. The most important of these tributaries are the Timok, Isker, Vid, Osma, Lorn, and Taban. The interior is only indifferently wooded, but j magnificent forests clothe the lower terraces, and rise almost to the highest summits of the Balkan. The prevailing strata belong to the upper part of the secondary formation, and of course are chiefly cretaceous. The soil is of remarkable fertility, and produces so much more corn and rice than the inhabitants consume, that the Turks regard Bulgaria as their most important granary, and derive from it large supplies of all kinds of agricultural produce, including honey and wax. The minerals are probably of considerable importance, but as yet, the only one which has been worked to any extent is iron. For administrative purposes, Bulgaria is placed under the Beglerbeg of Koumelia, whose residence is in the capital Sophia, and is divided into four sanjaks Sophia, Nicopolis, Silistria, and Widdin. The greater part of the inhabitants belong to the Greek church. They generally understand Turkish, but their vernacular tongue is a dialect of Sclavonic, bearing a considerable resemblance to the Russian. They are more industrious than is usual with the inhabitants of Turkish provinces, and, showing little inclination to break the yoke of their masters, are in return treated by them with tolerable mildness. Pop. 1,800,000. BULKINQTON, par. Eng. Warwick; 4600 ac. P. 1831. BULK WORTHY, par. Eng. Devon ; 6050 ac. Pop. 196. BULLAS, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 33 ni. W. by N. Murcia, on an eminence 1840 ft. above the sea level. It has steep and unpaved streets, two squares, a parish church, townhall, endowed school, prison, storehouse, and extra mural cemetery. Manufactures : linen, and hempen fabrics, earthenware, and brandy. Trade : manufactured goods, grain, &c. Pop. 5145. BULLE, a tn. Switzerland, cap. dist. of same name, can. ! of, and 14 in. S. by W. Freiburg. It stands in a fertile valley \ 2340 ft. above the sea level. In 1 b05, almost every building, , with exception of the old castle and Capuchin cloister, was | burned down. The greater part of the town is now new and regularly built. The parish church, which is very handsome, has a marble chancel, and possesses a fine organ by Moser. Six yearly markets are held here. One in May is the largest in the canton, and at the two in October and November the price of Gruyere cheese, for which Bulle is the great depot, is fixed. Pop. 1432. BULLKRS OF BUCHAN, a small fishing vil. Scotland, co. Aberdeen, on a gentle slope terminating on the brink of a high cliff, 22 m. N.N.E. Aberdeen. It consists of two or three rows of houses, straight and running parallel to each other, but hardly deserving the name of streets. The houses are superior to those commonly to be met with in fishing villages, and are kept remarkably clean by their occupants. Water is abundant, but all hard. The male portion of the population are all fishermen, and carry on the trade of white- fishing, in small boats, during 10 months of the year, never going further than 10 or 12 m. from land. They likewise engage to some extent in the herring-fishing. Close by the village is the remarkable natural curiosity called the Bullers of Buchan, consisting of a group of singular rocks and sea- worn caverns. The principal of these chasms or excavations is called the Buller (or Booter) of Buchan. It resembles an immense well, whose perpendicular walls are of the living rock, with the sea rushing violently in through an opening at the bottom, and having an aperture at the ton of about 50 ft. in diameter, from which the visitor contemplates the tumultuous waters below at a depth of 150 ft. Boats enter by the same passage with the tide, affording the curious an opportunity of visiting the interior, which, however alarming the adventure appears, is accomplished without risk. (Local Correspondent.} BULLES, a vil. and com. France, dep. Oise, 6 m. N.N.w . Clermont, on the Bresche. It was formerly noted for its manufacture of linen, called demi-Hallande, still carried on to a limited extent. The goods were sold chiefly at Beauvais. Pop. 1071. BULLEY, par. Eng. Gloucester; 780 ac. Pop. 229. BULLINGH AM, par. Eng. Hereford; 1700ac. Pop.412. BULLINGTOX, par. Eng. Lincoln; 760 ac. Pop. 52. BULLOCK, par. Irel. Dublin; 3331 ac. Pop. 1385. BULLOMS (NORTH and SOUTH), two maritime districts, W. Africa, both in the country of the Timmanees. N. Bul- loms is bounded S. by the Sierra Leone, and N. by the Little Sarcies river, intersected centrally by the meridian of 13 W. S. Bulloms is situated S. of the peninsula of Sierra Leone, between lat. 8 9 and the river Kates or 8 28 N.; and Ion. 12 15 W., and Yawry Bay. BULL S BAY, or BAUOUL BAT, a bay, E. side of New foundland ; lat. 47 25 N. ; Ion. 52 20 W. BULLUMGHUR, a tn. and fortress India, prov. of, and 21 in. S. Delhi ; lat. 28 23 N. ; Ion. 77 10 E. The fort has lofty brick walls, a deep ditch, and high mud bastions ; and the town, though small, is tolerably well built, with lofty houses and numerous temples. BULMER, two pars. Ens?.: 1, par. Essex; 2880 ac. Pop. 775. 2, par. York, N. Riding; 3800 ac. Pop. 983. BULOLA, a tn. and river, Senegambia ; the town stands on the r. bank of a tributary of the Bulola, about 5 m. S. from its junction with the latter, and 60 m. from the sea; lat. 1 1 31 N. ; Ion. 14 20 W. The RIVER, the sources of which are not well ascertained, traverses the country of the Biaferes, and falls into the Atlantic about lat. 11 30 N., being separated from the embouchure of the Jeba or Rio Grande, by a peninsula about 1 1 m. broad. BULPHAN, par. Eng. Essex; 2020 ac. Pop. 254. BULSAUR, a seaport, Hindoostan, on the highroad to Bombay, 42 m. S.S.W. Surat; lat. 20 36 N.; Ion. 73 5 E. It carries on a considerable trade in grain and timber. The chief manufactures are of cotton ; rice and sugar-cane are cultivated in the vicinity ; but a large portion of the land is still waste. BULTI, BALTEE, BULTISTAN, ISKARDOH, or LITTLE TIBET, the various names of a small state in Central Asia, occupying on the maps the S.W. corner of the Chinese em pire, though not subject to that power, and lying between lat. 34 40 and 35 30 N. ; and Ion. 74 40 and 76 20 E. Greatest length, S.E. to N.W., about 170 m. ; breadth, be tween 50 and 60 m. ; area, 12,000 sq. m. It is enclosed by lofty rugged mountains, rising to a height of 6000 and 8000 ft.. BULWELL 529 HUNZLAU rtnd is traversed by the Indus during the earlier course of that river, and has several other inferior, but still consider able streams, numerous mountain torrents, and five pretty large lakes. Little is known of its minerals, but arsenic is met with ; sulphur abounds, and thermal springs are numer ous. As might be expected from the inequalities of its sur face, its climate presents the extremes of heat and cold in accordance as well with its elevations and depressions as with its seasons. In the elevated parts, the cold is intense in winter ; while in the lower districts, the heat in summer ranges from 70 to 90 in the shade at noon. Rain is here almost unknown, but snow falls frequently, and lies to a depth of from 1 to 2 ft. The country is not naturally fertile, but, through the industry of its inhabitants, is made to yield tolerable crops of wheat, barley, millet, buck-wheat, turnips, and a little rice. Fruits of various kinds are abundant, in cluding apricots, peaches, apples, pears, grapes, mulberries, walnuts, and melons. The principal wild animals are a species of sheep with enormous horns, a large kind of goat, musk- deer, marmots, hares, leopards, bears, wolves, and foxes. The chief domestic animals are the grunting ox, which attains the size of our large ox ; the cow, the bzho, a hybrid between the former and the latter ; sheep, and goats. Eagles are fre quently seen, more rarely vultures ; and red-legged partridges, together with another species, as large as a common hen, are plentiful. The rivers abound with trout, but have scarcely any other fish. The inhabitants are of the Mongolian race, are peaceable and well-intentioned ; they labour hard and live poorly ; have a sallow, thin, and care-worn look, and are sel dom long-lived. Their dress is a long, full tunic and cap, generally made of the wool of their sheep and goats. Their religion is Mahometan, and their language Tibetian. Pop. estimated at 75,000. BULWELL, par. Eng. Notts ; 1 210 ac. Pop. 3157. BULWICK, par. Eng. Northampton ; 1910 ac. Pop. 487. BUMLIN, par. Irel. Roscommon ; 6582 ac. Pop. 5257. BUMPSTED, two pars. Eng. Essex:!, Bumpsted Hel ton; 2790 ac. Pop. 906. 2, Bumpsted -Steeple; 3460 ac. Pop. 1212. BUNARBASHI, a tn. and river, Turkey in Asia, pash. Anatolia. The town is in lat. 39 52 N. ; Ion. 26 15 E. ; 46 m. N.W. Adramyti, and is supposed to occupy a part of the site of ancient Troy. The RIVER Bunarbashi is formed by the junction of several warm springs, and is conjectured to be the Scamander of Pliny. BUNBURY, par. Eng. Chester ; 17,600 ac. Pop. 4678. BUNDELCUND, a dist. Hindoostan, part of it in the British province of Allahabad, and part under the rule of native chiefs, protected by the British Government. It lies be tween lat. 24 3 and 26 26 N.; and Ion. 77 48 and 81 33 E. ; area, 23,817 sq. m. ; and is watered by the Betwah, Desan, and Cane, all affluents of the Jumna, which forms the N. bound ary of Bundelcund. It is hilly ; contains the almost exhausted diamond mines of Panna, and has soil of every variety, and yields almost every grain and plant of India. Principal towns, Bandah, Callinjer, and Jhansi. In 1804, it was occupied by the British; and in 1817, the portion now belonging to the presidency of Bengal was finally given up by the Peishwa, and formed into the two districts of N. and S. Bundelcund. Pop. 2,500,000. BUNDER ABBAS. See BENDER- ABBAZ. BUNDERPOOCH [monkey s tail], the native name of the loftiest peak of the Jumnowtry, one of the Himalayas ; lat. 31 1 N. ; Ion. 78 33 E.; height, 21,155 ft. BUNDLEY, par. Eng. Devon ; 2410 ac. Pop. 342. BUNGAY, a market tn. and par. England, co. Suffolk, r. bank, Waveney, 30 m. N.E. Ipswich. It occupies the sides and summit of a gently rising hill, and is neatly and well built ; streets spacious, and well paved, diverging from a moderate- sized area in the centre of the town, forming a market-place, in which is a handsome market-cross. The town is lighted with gas, and well supplied with water. Its churches are, St. Mary s, an elegant structure, with a beautiful steeple; and the Holy Trinity Church, a small ancient building, with a round tower, and an ancient elaborately-carved pulpit. Adjoin ing St. Mary s Church are the picturesque ruins of a Bene dictine nunnery. It also has Independent, Wesleyan, and R. Catholic chapels ; and the Baptists have three separate congregations, but no chapel. The corn-hall is neat and Vor I. commodious, attached to which is the public dispensary. There are 23 daily, and five Sabbath schools, and several charities. Petty sessions weekly; market-day, Thursday; and two annual fairs for horses, &c. The principal trade is in corn, coals, flour, lime, and malt, in which a considerable amount of business is done. There is also an extensive printing-office, and stereotype-foundry. Adjoining the town is a very spacious common, on which is a good race-course, where the races are held in September. Area of par. 2090 ac. Pop. 4109. (Local Correspondent.) BUNGELOW ISLAND, an isl., N. Pacific Ocean, about 140 m. N.E. Great Loo Choo Island; lat. 28 25 N.; Ion. 130 E. BUNKLE and PRESTON, a united par. Scotland, cc. Ber wick. Mean length, 4 J m. ; mean breadth, 3J m. Pop. 748. BUNNY, par. Eng. Notts ; 2000 ac. Pop. 360. BUNOL, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 27 m. W. by S.Valencia; with remains of ancient fortifications. It has steep streets, two squares, a parish church, two schools, townhall, prison, and public storehouse. Manufactures: cloth, paper, and woollen fabrics. Trade: wine, oil, silk, and maize. Pop. 2473. BUSOLA, a tn. Spain, isl. Majorca, 10 m. N.E. Palma. It is tolerably well built, and has a parish church, two schools, a townhall, and cemetery. Manufactures: soap, oil, lime, gypsum, and charcoal, which are exported; grain and wine being imported. Pop. 1936. BUNPOOR, a small, ill -built tn. Beloochistan, prov. Kohistan ; lat. 27 45 N. ; Ion. 60 5 E. ; on a streamlet, and in a district or desert of same name ; arid and sterile ; ; defended by a fort. The DISTRICT of Bunpoor is inhabited | by the principal tribe of the Nharoes, who speak mixed Persian and Belooche ; possess about 300 cavalry, and 2500 infantry, and support themselves chiefly by predatory inroads into the neighbouring countries, especially Persia. BUNRATTY, a tn. and par. Ireland, co. Clare. The town lies r. bank, Ougarne, at its confluence with the Shannon, 8 m. W. by N. Limerick ; and has an old castle, erected in 1277, now used as a constabulary barrack. The anchorage in Bunratty roads, off one of the numerous islands in the Shannon near this town, is considered the best in the river, and is used by large vessels to discharge their cargoes for Limerick. Five fairs are held annually for cattle, sheep, and pigs. Area of par. 2755 ac. Pop. 1320. BUNTING ISLANDS. See BOOSTING. BUNTINGFORD, a market tn. England, co. of, and 10 m. N.N.E. Hertford, consisting of one long street ; houses generally well built ; water abundant ; business in malt and leather. It has a large commodious church, and places of worship for Friends and Independents, a free grammar-school, alms-houses, and other charities. Pop. 581. BUNWELL, par. Eng. Norfolk; 2280 ac. Pop. 1001. BUNZLAU [Latin, Boleslavia]. 1, A tn. Prussia, prov. Silesia, gov. of, and 25 m. W. Liegnitz, r. bank, Bober, on the railway between Frankfort and Breslau, surrounded by a double line of walls flanked with bastions, and by a deep ditch. It contains three churches, one Lutheran, and two R. Catholic ; a synagogue, some charitable and educational institutions, several manufactories of woollens, linens, stock ings, and earthenware; and extensive potteries. In the market- place is an iron obelisk to the memory of the Russian general Kutusow, who died here in 1813. Opitz, the father of German poetry, who died in 1639, was born here. Pop. (1846), 6677. The CIRCLE, area, 306 geo. sq. m., is gener ally level and well wooded, but the soil is of a sandy texture, and not very favourable for the production of corn. The chief crops are flax and potatoes. Iron and potter s clay are extensively worked and manufactured. Topazes, agates, chalcedonies, carnelians, and jaspers, are also found. Pop. 56,624. 2, Bundau (Jung), [Bohemian, Mlada-Boleslaw], a royal tn. Bohemia, cap. circle of Bunzlau, 31m. N.E. Prague, 1. bank, Iser. It is well built of stone, with several churches, a synagogue, a neat townhouse, barracks, an hospital, a court of criminal jurisdiction for the district, a royal gymnasium of j Piarists, and manufactures of cottons, printed calicoes, mus- [ lins, woollens, soap, and leather. It has an old fort, built by Duke Boleslaw (A.D. 973), the reputed founder of the town. Pop. (1844), 5074. The CIRCLE, area, 1642 sq. m., is in tersected by the Iser, and, in the W. and N.W., by offshoots 67 BUOC1IS 530 BURG (DEJ of the Kiesengebirge. In general, the country is arid, ex cepting in the watered valleys, which yield large crops of rye, barley, oats, flax, fruit, and hops. In the mountain districts, the manufacture of linens, cottons, woollens, ironware, glass, crystal, and paper, is carried on. The circle contains 16 towns, 30 market towns, and 1032 villages. Pop. 413,233. 3, Bunzlau (Alt), a tn. Bohemia, circle, Kaurzirn, 15 m. N.W. Prague, near r. bank, Elbe. It has a collegiate school, and a church much resorted to by pilgrims. Pop, 2000. BUOCHS, a vil. and par. Switzerland, can. Unterwalden, near S. bank, Lake Luzern, and r. bank, Aa, 8 in. S.E. Luzern. It stands on the slope of the Buochserhorn, and contains a very handsome church, an orphan and a poorhouse ; and is much exposed to inundation. Pop. 1107. BUOLICK, par. Irel. Tipperary; 7116 ac. Pop. 2660. BUONAB1TACOLO, a tn. and com. Naples, prov. Prin- cipato Citra. 12 in. S. Sala, in a mountainous district, on a tributary of the Sele. Pop. 5475. BUONALBERGO, a tn. and com. Naples, prov. Princi- pato Ultra, 7 m. N.W. Ariano. Pop. 3765. BUONCONVENTO, or BONCONVENTO, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 16m. S. by E. Sienna, near the con fluence of the Arbia and Ombrone; walled, flanked with towers, and overlooked by the castle of Percenna. The church, an extensive edifice, contains some valuable works of art. Silk is manufactured, good grain grown, and a con siderable number of cattle fed. Pop. 2736. BURANO, an isl. and tn. Austrian Italy, gov. of, and 6 m. N.E. Venice, lying among the lagoons. The inhabit ants are chiefly employed in fishing ; part, also, in building boats and making lace. Near the town there is an extensive ropework. Pop. 8000. BURBAGE, par. Eng. Wilts ; 3530 ac. Pop. 1455. BURCOMBE (SOUTH), par. Eng. Wilts ; 3090 ac. P. 402. BURCOTT, par. Eng. Oxford; 1550 ac. Pop. 183. BURDEKIN, a river, Australia, New S. Wales, be tween lat. 19 and 20 20 S. ; it flows, in a S.E. direction, to lat. 20 15 S., when it suddenly bends round, and, run ning N.E., falls into a bay near Cape Upstart. BURDUR, a tn. Asiatic Turkey, pasli. Anatolia, 65 m. S. Anum-Kara-Hissar ; lat. 37 45 N. ; Ion. 30 25 E. In its vicinity is a lake of same name. BURDWAN, a tn. Hindoostan, presid. and prov. Bengal, cap. dist. of same name, 1. bank, Dummoodah, 50 m. N.W. Calcutta. The titular rajah of Burdwan resides here, and has a large palace, with spacious gardens, &c. Pop. 540,000. The DISTRICT lies between lat. 22 and 24 N. ; and Ion. 87 20 and 88 25 E.; bounded, N. by Beerbhoom, E. by Nuddea, S. by Midnapore and Hooghly, and W. by Midna- pore and Kamghur ; area, about 2400 sq. m. It is level, and is one of the richest and most productive districts of Hindoo- Stan. The chief river is the Dummoodah, which, for a short time during the rainy season, is not navigable ; the district is well supplied with roads. The chief crops are sugar, indigo, betel, tobacco, cotton, the usual cereal grains of Bengal, and mulberry-trees. Coal of good quality is plentifully obtained, and is preferred, in the Calcutta market, to any other except ing English ; and some is exported to Madras, Singapore, Penang, and Ceylon. Fine iron ore is found near the coal, and abundance of stone. The native zemindars are usually rich ; the more wealthy portion of them reside in Calcutta, leaving their estates to be managed by resident agents. There are few villages in which there is not a school for the rudiments of education. Bard wan was formerly an inde pendent state, and, with the rest of Bengal, was ceded to the British in 1760. Pop. 1,487,300. BUREN [anc. Buyren], a tn. Holland, prov. Gelderland, about half way between Tiel and Culenborg. It has three gates, and consists of two streets, crossing each other at right /ingles. The council-house, with a handsome tower, and the Iteformed church, with a very fine spire, are both in the mar ket-place. There are also a II. Catholic church, and a small synagogue ; an orphan-house, of some architectural note ; and a Dutch and French school. The old castle of Buren, where Prince Philip William of Orange was born, in 1554, stands close to the town on the W. Pop. above 1000. BUREN, two vils. and a tn. Switzerland : 1, Buren-Oler. u well-built vil., can. of, and 10 m. W. St. Gall, on the Tliur, from whose inundations it lias often suffered. Pop. 1410. 2, Buren- Nieder, on the same river, a little below the former, and containing a handsome church, and good school. Pop. 1090. 3, Buren, a tn., can. of, and 14 m. N.N. W. Bern, cap. dist. of same name, on the Aar. It has a court-house, and a new bridge over the river, and carries on a good general and transit trade. Pop. 1147. BUREN, a tn. and circle, Prussia, prov. Westphalia, gov. Minden. The TOWN stands at the confluence of the Alte and the Alme, is walled, contains a handsome church, a normal school, and an asylum for deaf and dumb. The staple trade of Buren is linen-weaving. Pop. 1800. The CIRCLE, area. 195 geo. sq. m., is hilly, almost mountainous, in the S. and S.E. ; flat and covered with extensive moorland wastes, in the N.E. and N. In Salzkotten there is a salt spring, which yields annually 500 tons of salt. In other parts of the circle the linen manufacture is carried on to a great extent, and them are numerous oil-mills, several paper-mills, glassworks, and potash-works. Pop. 34,000. BUREN DO PASS. See BROOAXG. BURENG, BEUENG, or BRENG. 1, A valley, Cashmere, extending S.E. to N.W., between lat. 33 20 and 33 3W N. ; and Ion. 75 10" and 75 26 E. ; containing numerous subter raneous water-channels, and abounding in springs of great force and volume. 2, A river, flowing N.W. through the above valley. Shortly after the junction of the two streams of which it is composed, a great part of the water suddenly disappears, by an opening in the bed of the river, the re mainder being conveyed, by a canal N.W., towards Islama bad, beyond which it joins Jailum ; lat. 33 42 N. ; Ion. 75 2 E. ; whole course, about 40 m. BURES (ST. MAKY), par. Eng. Suffolk and Essex ; 4220 ac. Pop. 1596. BURESMOUNT, or LITTLE BURES, par. Eng. Essex ; 1430 ac. Pop. 282. BURFORD. 1 , A market tn. and par.England,co.Oxford. The town is 16 m. W. by N. city of Oxford, on a steep ac clivity, r. bank, streamlet Windrush. It consists of three prin cipal streets, straight and well kept, but badly paved ; houses of stone, and mostly very old. The church is a handsome structure of Saxon architecture, with Norman tower and spire. There are chapels, besides, for Wesleyans, Baptists, and Quakers, a grammar-school, formerly of considerable, but. now of little repute ; and several alms-houses for poor and aged widows. An ancient priory in the vicinity is an object of some interest. Three fairs annually for cattle, horses, sheep, cheese, &c. Area of par. 2170 ac. Pop. 1862 ; of tn. 1644. (Local Correspondent.}?,, par. Salop ; 8370 ac. Pop. 1 031 . BURG. 1, A tn. Prussia, prov. Saxony, gov. of, and 12 m. N.E. Magdeburg, on the Ille, surrounded by a wall with several gates. It has three churches, a grammar-school, an hospital, and a workhouse, and is the seat of civil and judicial administration for the circle. Its manufactures are extensive, and consist chiefly of woollens, yarns, linen, pottery, steel, and leather. It has also an iron-foundry, dye works, tileworks, numerous mills and distilleries, and likewise a pretty exten sive trade in hops, chicory, tobacco, cattle, and wool, great numbers of sheep being reared in the vicinity. Pop. (1846), 14,779. 2, A tn. Denmark, isl. Femern, prov. Schleswig;lat. 54 30 N.; Ion. 11 10 E. Its trade and shipping were at one time considerable, but have both been nearly extinguished by the filling up of the harbour, which is now accessible only to boats. The steeple of the church of Burg forms a con spicuous landmark for mariners. The inhabitants live chiefly by agriculture and weaving. Pop. 1800. 3, A tn. Denmark, in the S. Ditmarshes of Holstein, dist. Meldorf, with a very old church. Pop. 1129. BURG (DE), or BURGT, a vil. Holland, prov. N. Holland, isl. Texel, 7 m. N. the Heldcr ; the principal village in the island, and so much improved of late years, as to rival, in the beauty of its streets and trees, the neatest villages in Holland. The Reformed church, with its lofty spire, stands in the centre, and around it are 10 streets, and three squares. A handsome new council-house was built in 1840. The 14. Catholics have a neat church, and the Baptists a plainer one. Burg has a French and Dutch, and a Dutch school, and, besides, an insti tution chiefly for poor and infirm persons, who have no direct claim for support on the island, four benevolent boards for aiding the poor, a sub-committee of the society of beneficence, district branches of the Netherlands Bible, missionary, and BURGAGE 531 BURGOS tract societies, a savings -bank, and a branch of the public utility society. The inhabitants, generally in a thriving con dition, are occupied in trade or the rearing of cattle. Pop. 1100. BURGAGE, par. Irel. Wicklow; 1877 ac. Pop. 506. BURGAS. See BOOUGAS. BURGATE, par. Eng. Suffolk; 1830 ac. Pop. 369. BURGAU, several places, Germany. The chief is a tn. Bavaria, circle, Swabia, cap. dist. of same name, 24 in. W. Augsburg, on the Mindel, over which there is here a bridge. It contains a castle and an hospital, and has manufactures of leather and glue, and three annual fairs. Pop. 2063. BURGDORF, or BERTHOUD, a tn. Switzerland, can. of, and 12 m. N.E. Bern, r. bank, Emmen, with a townhouse, hospital, several public educational institutions, and a public 1 ibrary of 4000 volumes. There are manufactures of ribbons, chocolate, tobacco, and some breweries. Large fairs are also held. In the vicinity are the hot mineral baths of Lochbacl. Pestalozzi laid the foundations of his educational system here, and had a school in the old castle. The town disputes with Basel the honour of having established the first printing-press in Switzerland. Pop. 2417. BURGDORF, a tn. and bail. Hanover, dist. Luneburg, on the Aue, 12 m. N.E. Hanover, partly surrounded with a wall and ditch. It has manufactures of cotton and leather, and several distilleries. Pop. of tn. 2322 ; of bail. 45,703. BURGEO ISLANDS, a group of islands, British N. America, off E. coast Newfoundland; lat. (S.W. point) 47 33 N.; Ion. 57 44 W. (R.) The fishing is extensively prose cuted by the inhabitants of these islands, and, according to the report of Captain Loch, yielded 1,323,000 Ibs. between October 1847 and June 4, 1848. The fish are sent principally to the markets of Spain and Portugal. The fishermen, with very few exceptions, are all Protestants. They have two churches, and a small school-house ; but their dwellings are miserable huts. The settlement, however, appears to be in a flourishing condition, and the people, notwithstanding the discomfort of their dwellings, contented and happy. Pop. 700. (Parl. Papers.) BURGESS, par. Irel. Tipperary; 4980 ac. Pop. 2782. BURGH, 14 pars. Eng. : 1, par. Suffolk ; 780 ac. Pop. 266. 2, Burgh- Apton, par. Norfolk; 1620 ac. Pop. 564. 3, Burgh-next- Aylesham, par. Norfolk ; 540 ac. Pop. 258. 4, Burgh-Castle, par. Suffolk ; 1210 ac. Pop. 327. 5, Burgh- with-Grisby, or Burgh-upon-Bane, par. Lincoln ; 1870 ac. Pop. 155. 6, Burrjli-MattislMll, par. Norfolk ; 690 ac. Pop. 230. 7, Burgh (St. Margaret), par. Norfolk ; 2160 ac. Pop. 506. 8, Burgh (St. Peter), or Wheatacre Burgh, par. Norfolk 1970 ac. Pop. 312. 9, Burgh (South), par. Norfolk ; 1260 ac Pop. 307. 10, Burgh-upon-the- Sands, par. Cumberland 6380 ac. Pop. 1003. 11, Burgh Wattis, par. York, W Riding; 1700 ac. Pop. 2-i5.l2,Burghclere, par. Hants 3560 ac. Pop. 845. 13, Burghfield, or Burfield, par. Berks 4700 ac. Pop. 1115. 14, Burghill, par. Hereford ; 3170 ac. Pop. 863. BURHAM, par. Eng. Kent; 1630 ac. Pop. 380. BURGHAUN, a small tn. Hesse-Cassel, prov. of, and 11 m. N. Fulda, on the Haun. It is surrounded by a wall and ditch, is a place of great antiquity, and had a church in 1093. Its markets are important, and it has a good deal of linen-weaving. Pop. 1362. BURGHAUSEN, a tn. Bavaria, on the borders of Austria, 27 m. N.N.W. Salzburg, on the Salzbach ; with a palace, six churches, a monastery, an English female institute, and a grammar-school. It has also a powder-mill, a bell-foundry, and some trade in salt and leather. Pop. 2476. BURGHEAD BAY, Scotland, co. Moray, S.E. coast of the Moray Frith ; an excellent roadstead ; lat. 57 42 N. ; Ion. 3 35 W. BURGH-iN-THE-MARPir, a vil. and par. England, co. Lincoln. The village, 6 m. E. by S. Spilsby, has a com modious parish church, with a lofty tower, and chapels for Baptists and Wesleyans ; an endowed school, and two annual fairs. Area of par. 4240. Pop. 10 ( J5. BURGLEN, three vils. and pars. Switzerland:!, Eurg- len, can. Uri, on a small tributary of the Reuss, and the birth place of William Tell. On a height where his house stood is a chapel, painted over with scenes from the patriot s life. Near Tell s chapel is a new and handsome parish church, with a subterraneous chapel beneath. Pop. 1215. 2, [supposed anc. Petenisca], can. Bern, r. bank, Zihl, not far from the Lake of Bienne or Biel. A great number of coins and Roman an tiquities have been found in the neighbourhood. Pop. 1926. 3, can. Thurgau, r. bank, Thur, 11 m. E. Frauenfeld. It was once a place of some importance, and part of the wallg and ditches by which it was surrounded still remain. A con siderable quantity of fruit is grown in its vicinity. Pop. 1076. BURGO (EL), a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 35 m. W. by N. Malaga. It is tolerably built, and contains a parish church, townhall, two schools, prison, and cemetery. The inhabitants are exclusively agricultural, raising grain, wine, oil, fruits, and vegetables ; and rearing sheep, goats, and horned cattle. Pop. 2113. BURGO DE-OSMA, a tn. Spain, Old Castile, prov. of, and 33 m. S.W. by S. Soria, 1. bank, Usero. It has four squares, a cathedral, episcopal palace, ecclesiastical court-house, semin ary of arts, three endowed schools, foundling and general hospital, townhall, three fountains, and a cemetery. Manu factures: linen, hemp, shoes, leather, and chocolate. Trade: export of wine, fruits, cattle, and industrial and agricultural produce. Pop. 1790. BURGOS, a prov. Spain, Old Castile, between lat. 41 32 and 43 19 N.; bounded, N. by prov. Santander, E. by Alava, Logrofio, and Soria, S. by Segovia, and W. by Palencia and Valladolid ; area, 7082 sq. m. The surface is very ele vated, and consists of a series of mountain ranges, with inter vening valleys. The mountains belong to the great systems of the Pyrenees, and the Iberian Mountains ; two branches, one from each system, meeting and almost melting imper ceptibly into each other near the centre of the province, on the banks of the Arlanzon. The principal chain is the sierra de Oca. They are generally well wooded with oak, pine, chestnut, beech, and other timber. Gold, silver, iron, lead, copper, quicksilver, sulphur, gypsum, and lignite, are found, but mineral operations are carried on very imperfectly, and to a limited extent. Marble, and good stone for building and pavement, abound. The soil of the valleys usually con sists of a blackish loam, which, though sometimes shallow, is fertile, and produces good grain, fruits, and vegetables ; the higher districts afford excellent pasturage for cattle, sheep, goats, horses, mules, and pigs. The chief rivers are the Ebro, Duero, Arlanzon, Nagarillo, Oca, &c., chiefly affluents of the Ebro. They abound in fish. The climate is cold and damp, liable to sudden changes of temperature. Spring is boisterous and short, and is suddenly succeeded by scorching heat. Snow frequently covers the summits of the loftier hills eight months in the year. Manufactures : linen, woollen, and cotton fabrics, hats, paper, leather, hardware, cutlery, fine delft and coarser earthenware, bricks, tiles, and brandy. Trade is wholly inland, and very insignificant. Education is advancing, numerous schools, benevolent institutions, and scientific associations, having been recently established ; but matters in this respect are still on an unsatisfactory footing. One-half of the villages of the province have no school, and the attendance is only 1 to 6 6 of the population. Crime is comparatively rare. Pop., as given by census in 1844, only 171,189; but Madoz, founding on statistical data, maintains that it is 234,022. (Madoz.) BURGOS, a city, Spain, Old Castile, cap. prov. of same name ; on a declivity, sloping towards the Arlanzon, here crossed by three stone bridges, 1 1 2 m. N. Madrid. It forms an irregular quadrangle, of which the longer side, E. to W., is about 2 m., and the shorter 1 m. It is walled, but its chief defence is its castle, seated on an adjacent rugged hill, which is wholly enclosed by its works. The houses are in general well built of stone or brick ; but most of the streets are narrow and winding, and badly paved, with large cobbles, fixed in their places by a whitish kind of stone, which gives the whole an appearance of Mosaic. The principal squares are the Plaza Mayor or De la Constitucion, the centre of which is adorned by a statue of Charles III. ; the Plaza de la Libertad, lined with good houses, many of them recent, but some also interesting from their antiquity ; and the Plaza del Mercado, in the centre of which is a beautiful fountain, with a pilaster adorned with gilded stone figures, and surmounted by a lofty obelisk, which terminates in a star of gilded rays. This is only one of 10 fountains from which Burgos derives copious supplies of water. The finest street, in every respect, BURGOS 532 BURLINGTON is that called Huertodel Key. All the streets have good side pavement. Places of promenade are numerous ; but the one most frequented, and justly forming the boast of the town, is the Espolon, which is laid out in spacious walks, and has a fine vista opening to the Arlanzon. Burgos, up to the com mencement of the 1 6th century, shared with Toledo the alter nate honour of being the royal residence; and hence, its public buildings, several of which have a greater magnificence than usual in a provincial town, are not so much attestations to its present, as memorials of its former, greatness. The DUEGOS, THE CATHEDRAL, &c. From Cbapuy, L Espagno most remarkable structure is the cathedral, one of the finest buildings of the kind, not only in Spain, but in Europe. It was commenced in 1221, on the site of a royal palace, which Ferdinand III. gave up for the purpose, but was not finished for several centuries. It is built of white marble, in the form of a Latin cross, and is about 300 ft. long by 200 broad. Its principal entrance, on the W., has a finely decorated facade, and is flanked by two towers, which have a height of 300 ft., and terminate in spires of filigrane-work, exquisitely chiseled. The interior is of corresponding magnificence, is adorned with fine carvings and paintings, and contains numerous interesting monuments, in particular the tombs of Don Fernando, and the Cid, both natives of Burgos, and celebrated throughout Spain for their heroic achievements in the wars with the Moors. Besides the cathedral, there are numerous other churches, some of them of great extent, and considerable pretensions, but generally exhibiting much bad taste either in the style of their architecture, or grotesque finery of .their ornaments. San Lorenzo, one of the largest, has a front of Corinthian pillars, and an interior of a circular form, lighted from above by a handsome dome. None of the other public buildings within the city are deserving of notice. The theatre in use is small and insignificant ; and a new one, commenced on a most magnificent scale, remains unfinished from want of funds. Outside the city is the nunnery of Las Huelgas. The build ings are of mean appearance ; but the endowment was one of the richest in Spain, and all the nuns were of noble descent. The castle, which is situated to the N. of the town, was the palace of the early kings. It is now almost a ruin, but must have been of great strength, if we may judge from its suc cessful resistance to the repeated attempts of the British to take it. The failure of one of them, and the disastrous retreat which ensued, are too well known. The beneficent and edu cational establishments of Burgos are numerous. Among the former may be mentioned the royal, military, and foundling hospitals, savings -bank, and mont-de-jnett, which seems to combine a mutual assurance and loan society for working men; among the latter, the Seminario Conciliar of San Ger- onimo, the Colegio of San Nicolas, and four primary schools, supported by municipal funds. The chief criminal establish ment is a house of correction, called Presidio Peninsular, not only for Burgos, but also Logrono, Pampeluna, and Santona. The manufactures of Burgos are few and unimportant. That of fine woollen cloth, and harness trappings, which once had an European reputation, are all but extinct. The only other articles worth mentioning are paper, hats, linen, and silk stuffs. There is a little inland trade, chiefly in agricul tural produce. Burgos is the residence of a captain-general, the seat of an archbishop, and of a high court, whose jurisdic tion extends over the provinces of Alava, Biscay, Burgos, Guipuzcoa, Logrono, Santander, Soria. Before the removal of the court to Madrid, Burgos was in a very flourishing con dition, and contained thrice its present population. Since then it has continued to sink gradually, and exhibits in every quarter indications of decay. The peninsular war, during which the possession of it was repeatedly and keenly contested, added greatly to its disasters. Pop., including the suburb of Vega, on tho opposite side of the Arlanzon, 15,924. BURGSTADT, a tn. Saxony, circle, Leipzig, 7 m. N.N.W. Chem nitz; with a handsome Gothic church, and considerable manufactures of chintz and printed stuffs, and hosiery. It also spins a good deal of flax. Pop. 2700. BURGSTEIN, or BIRKSTEIN, a tn. Bohemia, circle, Leitmeritz, about 48 m. N. Prague. It contains a hand some palace, with gardens, a parish church, an hospital, and a manufac tory of mirrors. In the neighbour hood, on the summit of a remarkable precipice of sandstone, are the re mains of the old castle of Biirgstein. Pop. 1000. BURGUNDY [anc. Burgundia; French, Bourgogne], one of the largest and most important of the for mer provinces of France, and now forming cleps. Cote-d Or, Saone-et- Loire, Yonne, part of Ain, and part of Aube. In more ancient times Burgundy was the name of a kingdom, and in cluded several districts in addition to the above province, occu pying the whole basin of the Rhone. Its most ancient inhab itants were the 7Edui, fully described by Casar ; but its name of Burgundy is derived from one of the northern nations, called, in Latin, Burgundi or Burgondiones, who established themselves there in the beginning of the fifth century. At a later period, after the subversion of their kingdom, the province was erected into a dukedom, and long made an important figure in history, under a race of Dukes of Burgundy. The male line having become extinct in 1477, on the death of Charles the Bold, at the siege of Nancy, Louis XL, who had married his daughter, succeeded to the dukedom, which has ever since formed part of France. BURHANPORE. See BOORHANPOOR. BURIAS, an isl. Indian Archipelago, Philippines, be tween Masbate and Luzon ; lat. 13 11 N. ; Ion. 123 5 E. (R.) ; area, about 327 sq. m. The coast is rocky, but the island has some good harbours, and excellent anchorage. The in terior is fertile. BURITON, par. Eng. Hants ; 6840 ac. Pop. 993. BURKA, a tn. Arabia, E. coast, Oman, 60 m. W.N.W. Muscat, with a fort built by the Portuguese. This fort, which is mounted with cannon, was once the usual summer residence of the Imam, and still has a garrison of about 200 men. The inhabitants live chiefly by fishing, and the raising of dates. The bazaar is much frequented by the Be- dawin. The harbour is merely an open roadstead, accessible only by vessels of 30 to 50 tons. Pop. 4000. BURKHARDTSDORF, a tn. Saxony, circle, Zwickau, 7 m. S. Chemnitz. It has manufactures of hosiery, cotton and linen cloth, and lace ; but the inhabitants depend chiefly on mining. Pop. 1850. BURLESCOMBE, par. Eng. Devon ; 4210 ac. Pop. 958. BURLESTONE, par. Eng. Dorset ; 750 ac. Pop. 65. BURLEY, par. Eng. Rutland ; 3390 ac. Pop. 252. BURLINGHAM, three pars. Eng. Norfolk:!, Bur- lingham (St. Andrew], 730 ac. Pop. 214. 2, Burlinrjliam (St. Edmund], 480 ac. Pop. 98. 3, Burlingliam (St. Peter], 690 ac. Pop. 91. BURLINGTON.l , A city and port of entry, U. States, New Jersey, pleasantly situated, 1. bank, Delaware, 17 m. N.E. Philadelphia; lat. 40 5 10"N.; Ion. 72 52 37" W. It is encircled, on the S. and E., by a small stream, and con- BURLINGTON 533 BURMAH nected with the mainland by four bridges and several cause ways. It has six churches, a city hall, lyceum, hank, library, and several schools. The bishop of New Jersey resides here. It has some considerable manufactures, and a pretty exten sive shipping trade. Tonn. (1840), 3851. Pop. 3434. 2, A township and port of entry, Vermont, beautifully situate on a bay of the same name, Lake Champlain ; lat. 44 28 N. ; Ion. 73 15 W. The village contains many elegant houses, and a handsome public square. It has a court-house, jail, an academy, six churches, two female seminaries, and a univer sity, called the university of Vermont. Pop. (1840), 4271. BURLINGTON, a tn. England. See BRIDLINGTON. BURMAH, THE BIRMAN or BURMAN EMPIRE, or THE KINGDOM OP AVA [Burmese, Myamma, Byam-ma, or Bram- ma; Chinese, Afeen-tee ri], the most W. of the three great states of the Indo-Chinese peninsula, capital, Monchobo, and formerly Ava. Its extent, limits, capabilities, &c., are very imperfectly known, the country never having been fully ex plored by Europeans. It is bounded, N. by Assam ; E. by the Chinese province Yun-nan, by independent Laos and the Tenasserim Provinces ; S. by the Gulf of Martaban ; W. by the Bay of Bengal, Aracan, Chittagong, and Cassay, Kathee, or Munipoor; and it appears to extend from lat. 15 45 to between 26 and 27 N. ; and from Ion. 93 to about 98 40 E. ; estimated area, 184,000 sq. m. According to Dr. Francis Hamilton, In fertility, beauty, and grandeur of scenery, and in the variety, value, and elegance of its natural productions, Burmah is equalled by few (countries) on earth ; and it is occupied by a people of great activity and acuteness, possessed of many qualities agreeable to strangers. The mountains are covered with fine timber, and the valleys with jungle, spots here and there being cleared and cultivated ; but the proportion of cultivated land is small, and the greater part of the country is uninhabited. Physical Features. Burmah is composed of a series of longitudinal valleys, sloping N. to S., and flowed through by the Irawadi and its affluent the Kyen-dwen, by the Setang, and the Saluen, which last stream forms the E. boundary. These valleys are formed by spurs of the Himalayas, which lower in height as they proceed S. The most important are the chain of Amoopectoomoo, forming the W. frontier, and terminating S. in Cape Negrais; lat. 16 1 30" N.; Ion. 94 12 E., between the Gulf of Martaban and the Bay of Bengal, culminating point, 8202 ft.; and the chain which separates the basin of the Irawadi from that of the Saluen, terminating S. at the Gulf of Martaban, culminating point, Phoongan, 12,434 ft., near lat. 27 N., covered with perpetual snow. From the Gulf of Martaban N. to lat. 17 30 N., Burmah is low, champaign, interspersed with numerous small lakes, and intersected in all directions by branches of the Irawadi and Setang, within the deltas of which all this district is included, forming the most extensive plain in the kingdom. From lat. 17 30 to about 22 N., the country is hilly and elevated, but intersected by numerous fertile and well-wooded valleys; and N. of that parallel it is decidedly mountainous, the highest ranges being N. and N.E. of the capital. The sea-coast of Burmah is above 400 m. in length. Its most important portion is along the Gulf of Martaban, which is the termination of the mountain-ranges of the country, the receptacle of all the great streams, and the means of access to all the ports, namely, Rangoon, Martaban, and Bassain. The Irawadi, the greatest stream in the empire, rises, as far as known, in the Himalayas, flows S. through Burmah near its E. frontier, till it reaches Bhamo, where it takes a S.W. course to Ava, below which, about lat. 21 35 N., it receives, on its r. bank, its chief affluent, the Kyen-dwen, which, in part of its course, forms the W. frontier line towards Cassay. The Irawadi s course continues from Ava still S.W., till it ap proaches the Aracan frontier, after which it flows S.S.E. and falls, by numerous mouths, into the Gulf of Martaban, These mouths afford admirable means of internal water communica tion, and the main river itself is navigable, at all seasons, for sailing vessels of 200 tons, as far up as Ava, and, during the rains, as far as Bhamo, a distance of about 800 m. from the sea. The other affluents of the Irawadi worth noting are the Bhamo, Lungtchuen, Mukiaung, and Myeenguga, all of which it receives above the confluence of the Kyen-dwen, and all navigable to a greater or less extent. The Setang rises in Lake Gnaungrue, lat. 20 30 N., and is a comparatively small stream. Its total course is about 250 m. direct distance to the Gulf of Martaban, which it reaches through a broad estuary, and several small offsets ; but is not very navigable, there being no continuous channel deeper than 4 ft. The Saluen or Thanluyn (which see], is next to the Irawadi in size, and falls into the sea between the ports of Martaban and Moulmein. The lakes of Burmah are numerous, especially in the S. part, as .already stated, but small. The only ones of any consider able size, as far as known, are Nandokando, N. of Ava, above 40 m. long by about 12 broad ; and Gnaungrue, already noticed, about 10 m. long by half that breadth. Geology and Minerals. The N. and E. part of Burmah, as far S. as about lat. 17 N., appears to be of crystalline schistous formation. From N. of Ava, stretching S.E. into the Tenasserim Provinces, is a band of tertiary formation. Near the junction of the Kyen-dwen with the Irawadi is a patch of the transition series, including the carboniferous for mation ; all the rest of the country S. and W. seems to be composed of alluvium, covering, apparently, limestone in various states ; blue near Ava, and dark, bituminous, and slaty between that city and Paghan ; and near Prome, coarse grained and sandy. The low hills in the delta of the Irawadi are composed of blue limestone, calcareous sandstone, breccia, quartz, and orange-coloured iron ore. In the lower part of the course of the Saluen, are abrupt hills of the finest blue limestone. In these are numerous extensive and magnificent stalactitic caves, many of which, from time immemorial, have been devoted to religious purposes, and are still adorned with countless numbers of images of Guadama, of different sizes and materials, some covered with gold, and some formed merely of burnt clay. The minerals known to exist, and most of which are wrought to a greater or less extent, are gold, silver, tin, iron, antimony, lead, arsenic, and sulphur, all, except the first two, said to be abundant ; besides these, there are limestone ; marble, near Ava, equal to that of Carara, and monopolized by the Government, for the manufacture of images of Guadama ; nitre, natron, salt, and precious stones, including rubies, sapphires, amethysts, garnets, chrysolites, and jasper, most of which are sent to China. Coal is said to be abundant in some quarters, but is not used. Petroleum is obtained to the extent of upwards of 80,000,000 Ibs. annually, a quantity that might be greatly increased ; and is used as an oil for burning all over the country, and also for paying boats, and other purposes ; and in the N. parts of the empire, more especially on the banks of the Kyen-dwen, in the valley of Hukong, on the Assam frontier, are mines of very pure amber. Climate. In general healthy where cleared, even in the delta of the Irawadi, excepting during the rainy season, when the swampy parts become unhealthy for foreigners ; but even then the courses of the great rivers and cleared parts remain salubrious. In this district there are two seasons similar to those in Hindoostan, a dry and a wet ; the latter, from April to October, during which 150 to 200 inches of rain fall; and the former, from November to April. N. of the delta, or lat. 18 N., there are three seasons ; cold, from November to February ; hot, from March to June, and rainy the rest of the year. The delta, and all the lower parts of the valley of the Irawadi, are subject to annual inundations, which continue from May to October. Earthquakes are frequent in the S. parts of the country. Vegetation. A considerable portion of Burmah lying with in the tropics, and many parts, more especially in the N., being considerably elevated, its vegetation is rich and varied. In marshy places, in the valley of the Irawadi, rice, of ex cellent quality, which constitutes the favourite food of the people, is produced in abundance; and, on the drier grounds, maize and millet are raised. Around Ava, and some of the other larger towns, and in the more elevated spots, wheat and excellent tobacco are grown; besides which, are cultivated kidney and French beans, sesamum, mustard (Sinapis orien- talis), from which is obtained an oil, used instead of butter; black and red pepper, indigo, and sugar to a small extent ; and two kinds of cotton, one red, the other white ; but all the processes of agriculture are performed in a most primitive manner. The lapet, a Burman tea-plant, is grown on the hills of Ava ; but its leaf is used only as a pickle. Turmeric, used chiefly as curry, and various dye-stuffs, are in good variety. Among the fruits may be named the mango, orange, pine-apple, custard-apple, lemon, lime, durian, betel-nut, olive, r.CK.MAII 534 BURMAH &c. ; anil among the edible roots, the ginger, cassia, liquorice, arrow-root, yam, batatas, onion, garlic, &c. Timber for ship and house building is abundant, including teak, though not so good as that found in Malabar ; soondry, oak of several kinds, fir, and ebony. Of other useful trees and plants may be noted sandal-wood, sycamore, and Indian fig ; several kinds of palms, the tamarind, aloe, camphor, sappan, catechu, cin namon, laurel, nutmeg, spikenard, bamboo, sago palm, plan tains, and, on the sea-coast, the cocoa-nut. Zoology. Elephants are numerous in the lower parts of the country, and commit great devastation among the rice fields, but are never used as beasts of burden. The white elephant, apparently an albino, is also at times found, and is an object of superstitious veneration, but only among the lower classes. The king always possesses one, who is con sidered the second dignitary of state ; and has a regular cabinet of ministers, with numerous attendants and guards. Other animals, more or less prevalent, are rhinoceroses, tigers, leopards, buffaloes, hogs, civets, wild cats, apes, deers, ante lopes, otters, but no jackals or wolves ; perroquets, and other birds of rich plumage ; jungle-fowl, pea-fowl, pheasants, par tridges, quails, geese, ducks, and snipes. Alligators, of two kinds, crocodiles, and sharks, abound in the river mouths ; turtles and tortoises, are very common on the coasts ; the cobra da capello, and other serpents, but not generally ven omous, are numerous ; as are also scorpions, centipedes, lizards, leeches, and destructive insects. The domestic ani mals are oxen and buffaloes, used extensively for agricul tural purposes ; horses small, but vigorous, and only used for the saddle ; pigs, very few sheep and goats, or common fowls. Manufactures, Trade and Commerce, Money, Weights, and Measures. The manufactures of Burmah are, as a whole, unimportant and inferior. The females, who are the weavers, make cotton cloths, but not so good as those of Hindoostan and China. Durable, though coarse silks, are also made, and pottery-ware, unglazed and glazed. Of the latter kind, large jars have long been used in India, under the name of Pegu jars. The only steel of consequence is made in the Shan country, chiefly sword blades ; coarse cutlery is made in some of the villages, and clumsy gold and silver jewellery is manu factured in most of the large towns. Boat-building is carried on to some extent at Rangoon ; this branch of business is important, in proportion to the paucity of good roads, and the great number of excellent water-ways. The vessels built are sometimes 200 and 250 tons burden, and admirably adapted for inland navigation. The Burmese excel in gilding, which they make to withstand damp, apparently by means of re peated coats of wood-oil. They understand dyeing, but their colours are generally fugitive ; they make paper, umbrellas, cordage, sandals, and inferior gunpowder ; but are famous as bell-casters. The bells they make are said to be of delight ful tone, but disproportionately thick ; and some of them are of enormous size. One at Mengoon, near Ava, is said to be 20 inches thick, 20 ft. high, and 13 ft. 6 inches in diameter; estimated weight, 500,000 Ibs. ; that of the great and useless bell at Moscow being 443,772 Ibs. It is suspended a few inches from the ground, and has no tongue. Little attention seems to be paid to the kind or proportion of the metals used, the materials being supplied by the multitudes who come to witness the casting, during the time the process is going on. An eye-witness describing the casting at Moulmein, March 1849, of a bell 7 ft. high, and 4J in circumference, to be used in the service of Guadama, says there were employed 40 furnaces, all containing crucibles, holding about 20 Ibs. of metal each. These furnaces were supplied from a heap of charcoal, which, although diminishing, was still kept up by voluntary donations. An uninterrupted stream of men, women, and children, each with an offering, either of gold, silver, copper, or precious stones, were continually feeding the crucibles by casting in their gifts. We ourselves saw, during the short time that we were present, about 70 pre cious stones, consisting of rubies, diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds, thrown into the crucibles, besides large quantities of gold and silver ornaments and coins. An interval of two or three minutes elapsed between the emptying of the crucibles ; and the whole smelting process occupied 14 hours. The commercial transactions of the Burmese arc, indivi dually, on a small scale, although the aggregate is consider able. In the lower provinces, the internal traffic is conducted chiefly by water conveyance; in the hilly districts, by land communication ; the means of transport, in the latter case, being carts drawn by oxen, and sometimes small horses. The lower provinces supply the higher with rice, salt, pickled and dried fish, and various foreign commodities from the different sea-ports, while the former receive in return petro leum, saltpetre, lime, paper, lacquer ware, cotton and silk fabrics, iron, cutlery, brassware, catechu, palm-sugar, onions, tamarinds, &c. The foreign trade of the Burmese seaward, is almost wholly concentrated in Rangoon (ivhich see). From this point a considerable trade is carried on with Chittagong, Dacca, and Calcutta, in Bengal ; Madras, Masulipatam, on the Coromandel coast ; the Nicobar Islands, and Penang ; and occasionally with Bombay, and the Persian and Arabian Gulfs. The principal articles of export arc teak wood, catechu, stick lac, bees -wax, elephants teeth, raw cotton, orpiment, gold, and silver. Of teak wood, the quantity exported annually is equal to 7500 full-sized trees Calcutta being the principal market for this article. Large quantities of raw cotton, of a superior quality, are sent from Ava, to the city of Dacca, in the province of Bengal, where it is wrought into the fine muslins of that place. The principal imports are cotton piece goods, British, Bengal, and Madras; British woollens, iron, steel, quicksilver, copper cordage, borax, sulphur, gunpowder, saltpetre, fire arms, coarse porcelain, English glassware, opium, tobacco, cocoa and areca nuts, sugar, and spirits. The Burmese carry on a pretty extensive traffic besides, through Bhamo, as the entrepot with the Chinese of Yun-nan, from whom they receive copper, orpiment, quicksilver, vermilion, iron pans, brass wire, tin, lead, alum, silver, gold and gold leaf, earthenware, paints, carpets, rhubarb, tea, honey, raw silk, velvets and other wrought silks, spirits, musk, verdigris, dry fruits, paper, fans, umbrellas, shoes, and wearing apparel ; giving in return for these, raw cotton, ornamented feathers, edible birds nests, ivory, rhinoceros and deers horns, sapphires, rubies, &c. The quantity of raw cotton, sold annually to the Chinese merchants, averages about 14,000,000 Ibs. The whole export and import trade with China has been estimated at 400,000 to 700,000 sterling. The only coins in circulation are of lead, there being none of either copper, silver, gold, or any other metal. Gold and silver, however, are used as mediums ; but always in the shape of ingots, which must be weighed on every occasion of exchange ; they are also of different degrees of purity, which must also be ascertained by the receiver. The pieces of silver used in trade are generally of a tical weight, or of the value of 2s. 8 T a 9 rf. Gold is reckoned about seventeen times the value of silver. The principal measure of capacity for rice is the basket, 58| Ibs. avoirdupois ; of length, the finger-breadth, hand-breadth, span, and cubit. The weights mostly in use are the tical, about J an ounce avoirdupois; and the viss, equal to 100 ticals, or 3 65 Ibs. Religion, Language, Education. Excepting some of the barbarous mountaineers, the inhabitants of Burmah are half civilized, and adhere to the Buddhist religion, worshipping Guadama, one of the incarnations of Buddha, whose images are generally of marble, though sometimes of bronze. The priests are numerous, bound to celibacy, and eat but once a day. There are monasteries, and both monks and nuns or priest esses ; the latter generally old women, though some are young, and at liberty to marry, when they must quit the sisterhood. British and American missionaries, and all religions, are toler ated, but departure from the national religion is prohibited. To the priests is committed, exclusively, the charge of public instruction, and nearly every person learns the first elements. The two principal spoken idioms are Burman and Peguan ; but Pali is the language of religion and literature. People, Manners, Customs, Dress. The inhabitants of Bur mah belong to a common stock, the Indo-Chinese, and are divided into several tribes, some say as many as 18. The most important of these are the Burmans, occupying the middle part of the basin of the Irawadi, and the Peguans, its lower basin; the Shans, in the E. and N.E. provinces; the Khyens, spread over the centre of the country; and the Karians, between the Setang and the Saluen. Tartar and Tibetan tribes occupy the N. pirts. Siamese slaves are numer ous, and the mines are wrought by Chinese. The Burmese are short, stout, active, and well-proportioned ; of dark brown colour; black, lank, coarse, abundant hair; said to be hardy, BUKMAH 535 BURNHAM docile, industrious, lively, fond of music and poetry, but treacherous, cunning, and avaricious, though hospitable and courteous to strangers, feeding and lodging the traveller gratis. They are good mimics; and they love theatrical amusements, boxing, cock fighting, games of chance, and ath letic exercises. The Burinan marries early, and though polygamy is permitted, has only one wife, whom, with the other females of his family, he compels to do all the work. Divorces by either party are easily arranged, and are exceed ingly common. Among the common people, the principal part of the male dress, called a Pus ho, covers the loins, and reaches half way down the leg. It consists of a double piece of silk, cotton, or a mixed fabric, about ten cubits long, and is loosely wrapped round the body. Over this a frock, of white cotton cloth, in winter quilted, called an in-gee, with sleeves, is worn reaching below the knees, and tied in front. The head is covered with a small square handkerchief, commonly of British book-muslin, or English or Madras printed handker chiefs, worn like a turban, but leaving the upper part of the head bare. The lower classes of women wear only a single petticoat, called a te-mine, more or less open in front, according to the condition of the wearer. Those of the better orders wear also an in-gee or frock, somewhat different in form, and shorter than that of the men. They wear long hair, but no head-dress. Sandals are frequently worn by both sexes ; and umbrellas are in general use, being among the principal in signia of rank or office ; the colour indicating the quality of the possessor. A nobleman s dress consists of a long robe of flowered velvet or satin, reaching the ankles. A mantle or scarf, thrown over this, hangs from the shoulders. On the head is a high velvet or silk cap, plain or embroidered, ac cording to his rank. Females of the higher classes generally wear a loose jacket with tight sleeves. A piece of silk or cloth encircles the waist, and descends to the feet. When they go abroad, a silk sash crosses the bosom, while the ends are thrown over the shoulders. The priests have the head closely shaved and uncovered, and only protected by a small fan of palmyra-leaf. The colour of the dress of the priest hood is yellow, and is held so sacred that it is sacrilege for any one else to wear it. Tatooing, chiefly on the legs and lower parts of the body, is practised by the Burmese and some of the other tribes, and the chewing of betel, and the smoking of tobacco, are universal. The houses are made of timbers or bamboo, and have thatched roofs and doors, and windows of mat ; none are of stone or brick, the use of these materials being prohibited, except for pagodas, &c. Rice, eaten with curry and sauces of stewed melons, vegetables, &c., is the prin cipal food. Oil made from sesarnum seed, and Chili pepper, are greatly used as seasoning. Animal food is eaten by those who can afford it, though the law forbids the taking of life. Government, Laws, Revenue, Military Force. The govern ment is despotic; the King is styled Lord of life and proper ty; his office is hereditary, and he rules by a council, called Lut-d hau, composed commonly of four officers, but some times of five or six, which exercises legislative, executive, and judicial functions, acting for the King, whose name never appears. The laws are taken from the celebrated Manu or Menu code, and are, in many respects, distinguished for the wisdom of their provisions ; but the punishments, in general, are cruel. Justice is easily purchased. The only hereditary public officers are the Saubwas, the tributary princes of the conquered provinces. The revenue is derived from a tax upon cultivated land, fisheries, mines, petroleum wells, exports, &c. ; and the King s whole income probably does not exceed 25,000. Officers are paid by gifts of public lands, and not in money. There being no military class, and the standing army being small, general levies of men are made in time of war. The troops have no regular pay, but are maintained at the public expense. The main army is infantry, but there is also a small body of cavalry, and a flotilla of boats. Clumsy two-handed swords, named Das, spears, matchlocks, European muskets, &c., are their arms. Divisions. Burmah is divided into several provinces, of which the most important are Ava Proper or Mramna Pyee, in the centre of the kingdom ; Pegu or Talainpyee, formerly an independent kingdom, which, with prov. Bassain, occupies the deltas of the Ira wad i and Setang ; Mrelap-shan on the E., and Jo or Yo Pyee on the W. frontier, and the country of the fchan in the N. Calendar. The Burman year is divided into 12 months, of 29 and 30 days alternately, rectified by an intercalation every third year. Each month is divided into an increasing and a waning moon. The week is divided into seven days; and time is ko.pt by a kind of clepsydra, consisting of a copper cup perforated at the bottom, and placed in a vase of water. The Burmese have four epochs, but the one in common use commences with A.D. 639. History. The Buddhist religion was probably introduced into Burmah about the year B.C. 301. At this period, tho government was permanently fixed at Prome, where it con tinued for 395 years, during which there reigned 24 princes. After this, it was removed, under a new dynasty, to Pugan, where it continued for nearly 12 centuries, during which there reigned 55 princes. In A.D. 1300, the seat of govern ment was established at Panya, where it continued 56 years, under three successive princes. In 1364, it was removed to Ava, where it continued for 369 years, and where, in the 16th century, Europeans first became acquainted with the Burmese. Towards the commencement of the 18th cen tury, the Burmese were conquered by the Peguans, a people whom they had overcome, and kept in subjection for nearly two centuries before. At this period arose Alompra, the founder of the present dynasty. After a reign of eight years, Alompra was succeeded by his son Uparaja, who made Sagaing his capital. Uparaja reigned three years only when he died, and was succeeded by his brother Sembuen, who removed the capital to Ava. In 1776, Sembuen was succeeded by his son Sen-Ku-sa, who, after a reign of five years, was suc ceeded by Paong-Ka cha, who removed the seat of govern ment to Amarapura. After a reign of 38 years, Paong-Ka-cha was succeeded (1819) by Nun-sun, who removed the court once more to Ava ; but that town having been almost entirely destroyed in 1839 by an earthquake, Monchobo has become the seat of government. In 1837, Nun-sun died, and was succeeded by his brother, Ser-a-wa, to the exclusion of the proper heir. The first English writer who notices the Burman dominions, is Ralph Fitch, a London merchant, who travelled in India towards the end of the 16th century. He represents the countries, especially the cities, to have been then in a flourish ing condition, and the trade and shipping of the seaport towns to be very extensive. At the close of the 17th century, the Governor of Madras, Mr. N. Higginson, made certain friendly overtures to the King of Ava, which were graciously received; and in 1709, the Burman dominions were visited by Captain Alexander Hamilton, who wrote a New Account of the East Indies. In 1757, the East India Company obtained a site for a factory, and other advantages. Subsequent aggressions on the part of the Burmese, accompanied by insolence to our ambassadors, led to hostilities, which terminated, in 1826, in the curtailment of the Burmese power, and the establishment of British rule in the provinces of Aracan, Ye, Tavoy, Mergui, and part of Martaban. Pop. (1826), 4,230,558, though esti- j mated by some at 8,000,000. (Crawford s Embassy to Ava; I Dubois de Jancigny, Japan, Indo-Chine, et Ceylan, 1850; i Malcom s Travels in S.E. Asia; Journal of the Indian Archi- pelago, 1849.) BURMARSH, par. Eug. Kent; 1690 ac. Pop. 130. BURMINGTON, par. Eng. Warwick ; 720 ac. Pop. 188. BURNESTON, par. Eng. York, N. Riding ; 6920 ac. Pop. 1494. BURNETT, par. Eng. Somerset; 660 ac. Pop. 100. BURNBY, par. Eng. York, E. Riding; 2100ac. P. 110. BURNCHURCH, a par. Ireland, co. Kilkenny; 3364 ac. Pop. 977. BURNHAM, several vils. and pars. England: 1, A vil. and par. Bucks ; 6740 ac. ; three annual cattle-fairs are held here. Pop. 2284. 2, A vil. and par. Essex ; 5050 ac. Pop. 1735. 3, A par. Somerset ; 4270 ac. Pop. 1469. 4, Burn- ham- Deepdale, a small vil. and par. Norfolk ; 960 ac. Pop. 109. 5, Burnham-Norton, a small vil. and par. Norfolk; 1480 ac. Pop. 166. 6, Burnhatn-Overy, a small seaport and par. Nor folk; 1920 ac. ; 1J m. N.E. Burnham-Westgate ; has some trade in corn and oyster-dredging. Pop. 613. 7, Burnl*am- Thorpe, a vil. and par. Norfolk; 2200 ac. Pop. 396. 8, Burnliam- Ulph-and-Sutton, a par. Norfolk ; ] 220 ac. Pop. 355. 9, fiurnhcf.n-Westgate, a small market in. and par., co. Norfolk. The town lies 37 m. N.N.W. Norwich, on the BURNLEY 536 BURTON Burn, within 3 m. of the sea, and has a good harbour. It con- Registered electors, 52. Area of par. 2900 ac. Pop. of par. .-ists of one principal street, with several smaller diverging (1841), 2210; of bor., 1959. (Local Correspondent.) from it, and is tolerably well supplied with water. The BURPHAM, par. Eng. Sussex; 3150 ac. Pop. 280. church, situated about 1 m. from the village, is a neat Gothic BURR A, three islands, Scotland: 1, Two isls. Shetland, structure. There are, besides, several chapels, belonging respectively to Baptists, Irvingites, Methodists, and Antinom- ians. Schools : seven dame schools, one day-school for boys, and two national schools. Considerable quantities of corn, hay, and straw are shipped for London, &c. ; and oysters, the trade in which forms the chief support of the inhabitants, are exported to various quarters, including France, Holland, and Belgium. The chief imports are coals, oil-cake, and timber. Area of par. 2930 ac. Pop. (1841), 1126. (Local Corre spondent.) BURNLEY, a market tn. England, co. Lancaster, on a tongue of land formed by the confluence of the Burn and W. of Mainland, and separated from it by Cliff Sound ; lat. 60 8 N. ; Ion. 1 21 W. The E. island is also called HOUSE, and on its S. side is a peninsula 1 m. long, chiefly consisting of pasture. The coast of both is rocky. 2, An isl. Orkney, separated from S. Ronaldshay by Water Sound ; lat. 58 50 N. ; Ion. 2 52 W. It is composed of sandstone and dark- blue slate, is about 4 m. long and 1 m. broad, and inhabited by fishermen. Pop. 532. BURRA LAKE, a lake, Australia, New S. Wales, on the N. W. margin of co. Argyle ; lat. 34 18 S.; Ion. 149 45 E. BURRIANA, a tn. and port, Spain, Valencia, prov. of, and 8 m. S. Castellon-de-la-Plana, r. bank, Bechi, 1 m. from Calder, 21 m. N. Manchester. It comprises six principal! the sea. It is well built, has three squares, a parish church, streets, one or two of which are handsome, and lined with townhouse, two endowed schools, an hospital, prison, and a excellent shops ; all are well kept ; houses chiefly of a whitish- coloured freestone, which abounds in the vicinity, and well built ; lighted with gas, and abundantly supplied with water from springs in the neighbourhood. An old Saxon cross, which occupies the centre of an area, is an object of some in terest. The church of St. Peter s is an ancient building, with a massive tower and peal of bells ; but has undergone so many alterations, that scarcely any traces of its antiquity remain. Trinity Church and St. James s are both neat edifices the one in the Gothic, and the other hi the Tudor style. There are, besides, a Wesleyan chapel, a large and handsome structure ; cemetery, with chapel attached. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in agriculture, though some are likewise employed ir fishing, and the usual industrial occupations of a seaport. Trade: exports fruits, wine, and oil; imports sugar, brandy, salt fish, and iron. Pop. 6203. BURRINGTON, three pars. Eng.: 1, par. Hereford; 2850 ac. Pop. 236. 2, par. Somerset; 2420 ac. Pop. 531. 3, par. Devon; 6100 ac. Pop. 1244. BURRISCARRA, par. Irel. Mayo ; 5760 ac. Pop. 1681. BURRISHOOLE, par. Irel. Mayo ; 55,239 ac. It con- ., ._, _ _ , tains the town of Newport. Pop. 11,942. two Independent, one Association Methodist, one Primitive BURRISNEFARNEY, par. Irel. King s co. and Tip- Methodist, and chapels for Particular and General Baptists. ! perary; 4540 ac. Pop. 1073. The schools consist of a free grammar-school, which has BURROUGH, par. Eng. Leicester ; 1190 ac. Pop. 149. existed since the Reformation ; four national schools, in a | BURROUGHGREEN, par. Eng. Cambridge ; 2000 ac. flourishing condition ; a large infant school, recently built ; Independent and Wesleyan day-schools, two R. Catholic schools, but only one commercial school of importance. A dispensary has recently been established, and there are a mechanics institution, a Wesleyan institution, somewhat re sembling the latter, but more of a religious character ; and the Church of England literary institution, the most flourish ing of the kind in Burnley, and for which a new and spacious building has been lately built, the only important one of the kind in the town. Cotton spinning and weaving, and worsted pinning, are carried on here to a great extent ; the former employing 1680 horse power, and the latter 80 horse power. There are also corn-mills, employing 96 horse power ; a large cloth-printing establishment, and several iron-foundries and machine shops. The Leeds and Liverpool Canal, and the East Lancashire Railway, both pass through the town ; which is also connected, by a branch, with the Lancashire and York shire Railway. Market, every Monday ; six fairs annually. Pop. (1841), 18,735; estimated (1850), at 28,000. (Local Correspondent.) BURNSALL, par. Eng. York, W. Riding ; 25,950 ac. Pop. 1484. BURNTISLAND, a small seaport and par. Scotland, Fife, N. shore estuary of the Forth. The town is 7 m. N. by W. Edinburgh, in lat. 56 4 N. ; Ion. 3 13 W. ; mostly on level, but partly also on sloping, ground, which rises to a considerable height behind. It consists of one long and spacious street, macadamized, and well kept ; a back street, running parallel to the latter, also tolerably clean ; and a number of diverging lanes and alleys. Some of the older houses in the main street are in the Flemish style, with their gables to the front ; but many of- the more modern are hand some and commodious buildings ; and the town is every year improving as sea-bathing quarters, and is lighted with gas. It has three churches an Established, U. Presbyterian, and Free church the first a large edifice, in the old Dutch style ; a townhall, a modern Gothic structure, with a hand some steeple ; several schools, including burgh school, and Free church school ; two or three benevolent societies, a reading-room, and scientific lecture association. The fisheries are considerable ; shipbuilding and distillation are carried on, the. latter to a great extent. The harbour is capacious, of great depth, and of easy access. Burntisland is the steam boat ferry station on the passage of the Edinburgh and Northern Railway. It unites with Kinghorn, Dysart, and Kirkaldy, in sending a member to the House of Commons. Pop. 452. BURROW HEAD, Scotland, co. Wigton, S. coast, thn terminating point of the peninsula which separates Wigton Bay from Glenluce Bay; lat. 54 40 N.; Ion. 4 20 W. BURRY, par. Irel. Meath ; 3695 ac. Pop. 796. BURSLEDON, par. Eng. Hants ; 830 ac. Pop. 548. BURSLEM, a tn. and par. England, co. Stafford. The town stands on a slope, on the North Staffordshire Railway, 17 m. N. Stafford ; has four principal streets, and a spa cious market-place, all clean and lighted with gas ; houses of brick, and generally well built ; water abundant. Three established churches, four Wesleyan, three New Connection, two Wesleyan Association, two Primitive Methodists, one Baptist, one Independent, and one R. Catholic ; a school con nected with each ; also, an endowed school, called the Burslem Free School. Principal public buildings : butchers shambles, Burslem Sunday-school, and St. Paul s Church, the tower of which is 115 ft. high. There are here a mechanics institute, and public reading-room. Principal manufactures china and earthenware, which are carried on to a great extent. Area of par. 2930 ac. Pop. (1841), 16,091, of which 12,631 in Burslem township. BURSTALL, par. Eng. Suffolk; 1230 ac. Pop. 223. BURSTEAD, two pars. Eng. Essex:!, Bur stead (Great), 4420 ac. Pop. 2168. 2, Burstcad (Little), 1320 ac. Pop. 170. BURSTOCK, par. Eng. Dorset ; 970 ac. Pop. 307. BURSTON, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 1300 ac. Pop. 468. BURSTOW, par. Eng. Surrey; 4420 ac. Pop. 863. BURSTWICK, par. Eng. York, E. Riding; 5720 ac. Pop. 810. BURSTYN, or BunozryN, a market tn. Austria, Galicia, circle of, and 21 m. S.W. Brzezan, on the Lippa. It con tains two churches (a Greek and a R. Catholic), and a hand some palace. Pop. 2000. BURT, par. Irel. Donegal; 10,673 ac. Pop. 3857. BURTON, twenty-two pars., Eng. and Wales:!, par. Chester ; 2920 ac. Pop. 428. 2, par. Pembroke ; 2700 ac. Pop. 846. 3, Burton or Bodexton, par. Sussex ; 776 ac. Pop. 7. 4, Burton- Agnes, par. York, E. Riding ; 6540 ac. Pop. 603. 5, Burton-Bishop, or South Burton, par. York, E. Riding, 3970 ac. Pop. 532. 6, Burton-Bradstock, par. Dorset; 2260 ac. Pop. 1201. 7, Burton- Cherry, par. York, E. Riding; 3180 ac. Pop. 455. 8, Burton- Goggles, par. Lin coln ; 301 ac. Pop. 260. 9, Burton-Dasset, par. Warwick ; 5400 ac. Pop. 614. 10, Burton-Fleming, or North Burton, par. York, E. Hiding ; 3590 ac. Pop. 506. 11, Burton (Gate), BURTON -IN -KENDAL 537 BUKYAN (Sr.) par. Lincoln; 1160 ac. Pop. 126. 12, Burton-Joyce, par. Notts ; 1940 ac. Pop. 764. 13, Burton-Hastings, par. War wick; 1910 ac. Pop. 276. 14, Burton- Latimer, par. Nor thampton; 2690 ac. Pop. 965. 15, Burton- Lazars, par. Leicester; 2060 ac. Pop. 262. 16, Burton-Leonard, par. York, W. Riding; 1760 ac. Pop. 455. 17, Burton-by- Lincoln, par. Lincoln; 2260 ac. Pop. 206. 18, Burton- Over y, par. Leicester; 1660 ac. Pop. 449. 19, Burton-Pidsey, par. York, E. Hiding; 1980 ac. Pop. 364. 20, Burton- Pedwardine, par. Lincoln; 2580 ac. Pop. 125. 21, Barton (West], par. Notts; 710 ac. Pop. 35. 22, Burton-ujpon- Stather, par. Lincoln ; 3860 ac. Pop. 799. BURTON -IN -KENDAL, a small market tn. and par. England, co. Westmorland. The town is 10 m. S. Kendal, well built, and clean, with regular and well-kept streets ; a spacious market-place, a fine old church, grammar school, and several charities ; flax-mills, and well-attended market on Tuesday. Area of par. 9170 ac. Pop. 2387. BURTON-UPON-TRENT, a market tn. and par. England, co. Stafford, and partly in co. Derby. The town is plea santly situated 20 m. E. Stafford, in a fertile vale, 1. bank, Trent, which is here crossed by a fine old bridge of 36 arches, 1545 ft. long. The streets, several of which are of consider able extent, are well paved, and lighted with gas ; water abundant. The places of worship are three churches, all of them elegant and ornamental structures ; and chapels belong ing to General and Particular Baptists, Independents, and Primitive and Wesleyan Methodists. There are, besides, a free grammar-school for 50 boys, a school for 550 children, several other schools, alms-houses for 1 1 poor women, a dis pensary, a savings -bank, a subscription library, a news-room, and a union workhouse. Malting, rope-making, tanning, and iron-forging are carried on to a considerable extent ; but the chief business consists in the brewing of ale, for which the town has been long celebrated, large quantities being sent, not only to London and other parts of England, but to India and | China. The town is governed by a high steward, deputy- steward, and bailiff appointed by the Marquis of Anglesey. The bailiff, who is a justice of peace, acts also as coroner. There is a weekly market on Thursday, and six fairs are held annually. The Trent is navigable to Gainsborough, a distance of nearly 60 m., from whence there is a branch to this place of the Grand Trunk Canal, between the Trent and Mersey. The Birmingham and Derby Junction Railway has a station about half a mile W. the town. In 1 322, a battle was fought on the bridge at Burton, between Edward II. and the Earl of Lancaster, in which the former obtained a decisive victory. Area of par. 7730 ac. Pop. (1841), 8136. BURTSCHEID, or BORCETTE, a tn. Prussia, and pro perly a suburb of Aix-la-Chapelle, with which it is connected by an avenue of trees, being not half a mile distant from it. It contains a townhouse, and three churches (two R. Catholic and one Protestant), and carries on extensive manufactures, particularly of woollens and cassimeres. Its thermal springs, which rise in the hill immediately above the town, are cele brated. Pop. 5200. BURUDDA, or JAITWAK, adist. Hindoostan, S.W. coast, Goojerat, principally between parallels 21 and 22 N. It is bounded, N. by the Serteeannee, E. by the Burudda hills, and W. by the sea. It is generally flat, of a light soil, in differently wooded, and in many places the water is brackish. Its chief town is Poorbunder. BURUM, or BCERUM, a vil. Holland, prov. Friesland, 1 1 m. S.E. Dockum, and communicating with the Lauwer Zee. A large but quiet and sequestered village, surrounded by a fat clay soil, known by the name of Burumerland. It has a handsome Reformed church, and a school. The people live wholly by raising corn, and rearing cattle. Pop. 1500. BUR WANNEK, a tn. Hindoostan, Candeish, dist. of same name; lat. 22 4 N. ; Ion. 74 58 E.; surrounded with a double wall. It has an extensive palace, but is generally in a ruinous condition. The district extends along 1. bank, Nerbudda, and is about 65 m. long by 40 broad ; but the greater part of it is covered with jungle. BURWARTON, par. Eng. Salop; 1170 ac. Pop. 151. BURWASH, or BUKGHERSH, par. Eng. Sussex ; 6840 ac. Pop. 2093. BURWELL. 1, A vil. England, co. Cambridge, con taining the united parish of St. Andrew and St. Mary; 4 in. VOL T. N.W. by W. Newmarket. It is composed chiefly of one irregular street ; and possesses a handsome Gothic church, the ruins of an ancient castle, several schools, and an Inde pendent chapel ; area of par. 6505 ac. Pop. (1841), 1820. 2, par. Eng. Lincoln; 2190 ac. Pop. 174. BURWHA, a negro tn. Central Africa, kingdom, Bornou. W. bank, Lake Tchad, 80 m. N.N.W. Kouka; lat. 13 52 N.; Ion. 13 58 E. It covers an extent equal to 3 sq. m., and being surrounded by a wall 13 or 14 ft. high, fronted by a dry ditch, may be considered, with reference to the practices of war in that country, a place of some strength. The town is entered by two gates, which are nearly E. and W., and are defended by two mounds of earth, with perpendicular fronts. Each principal hut in the town has a little enclosure, with a cow or two, and some goats and fowls. Pop. about 5000 or 6000. BURY. 1, A bor., market tn. and par. England, co. Lancaster. The town, which is agreeably situated on rising ground, between the Irwell and Roche, 6 m. E. Bolton, con sists of three principal streets and a commodious market-place. It is abundantly supplied with water, well lighted, and has within the last few years been greatly improved. The parish church, which was rebuilt in 1776, is a substantial structure, with a beautiful tower and spire, which were erected in 1844. There are, besides, three other churches, and chapels for Independents, Primitive and New Connection Methodists, Wes- leyans, Presbyterians, Baptists, Unitarians, and R. Catholics, the last a chaste Gothic building, with an elegant tower. There are several excellent schools, including a free grammar- school, and national schools, to the first of which are attached two exhibitions of from 30 to 35 each, to the colleges of St. John s, Cambridge, and Brasenose, Oxford. There are also three news-rooms, a mechanics institution, a subscription library, a dispensary, and savings -bank. The woollen manu facture, which was introduced here in the reign of Edward III., is still carried on to a great extent, and forms the staple of the place. There are, likewise, numerous factories for spin ning and weaving of cotton, together with iron-foundries and paper-mills; calico bleaching and printing, dyeing and log wood grinding, are also carried on to a great extent. There are stations here belonging to the Liverpool, Wigan, Bolton, and Bury Railway ; the East Lancashire ; and the Bury and Heywood branch of the Manchester and Leeds Railway. By the Reform Act, Bury was constituted a borough, with the privilege of returning one member to the House of Commons. Registered electors (1849), 903. Its local affairs are under the jurisdiction of the county magistrates, who hold petty sessions twice a week. The weekly market is on Saturday, and three fairs are held annually, in March, May, and September. The late Sir Robert Peel was born at Chamber Hall, within the parish, in 1788. Area of par. 22,240 ac. Pop. (1841), 62,125; of bor. 24,759. (Local Correspondent.) 2, par. Huntingdon ; 2480 ac. Pop. 359. 3, par. Sussex ; 3340 ac. Pop. (1841), 611. BURY ST. EDMUNDS, a tn. England, co. Suffolk, 26J m. N.W. Ipswich, on a slope, 1. bank, Bourne or Larke ; streets straight, at right angles, clean, and well lighted ; water abundant; houses (of brick) plain, but generally well built. It has three churches, two of them fine old Gothic edifices ; seven chapels, two Independent, two Baptist, a Wesleyan, a Unitarian, and a R. Catholic ; also, a Friends meeting-house. Other public buildings are an hospital, concert and assembly- rooms, theatre, county-hall, guildhall, King Edward s school, and jail. Public institutions : a free grammar, commercial, and five charity schools ; an asylum for twelve poor persons ; an hospital, admitting upwards of 1000 patients yearly ; 98 alms-houses, and several minor charities, mechanics and young men s institutes, archaeological society, and public library. Soap and candle manufactured to a small extent. The borough returns two members to the House of Com mons, and its municipal government is vested in a mayor, six aldermen, and 18 councillors. Bury St. Edmunds for merly had one of the largest and wealthiest abbeys in England. Of the many fine remains still existing, the gate, built in 1377, 62 ft. high, 50 long, and 41 broad, is one of the best specimens of early Gothic. In part of the abbey grounds is a botanic garden, tastefully laid out. The Eastern Union Railway has a station here. Pop. (1841), 12,538. BURYAN (ST.), par. Eng. Cornwall ; 6970ac. Pop. 1911. BURYTHORPE 533 BUSSORAH BURYTHORPE, par. Eng. York, E. Kiding; 1020 ac. Pop. 226. BUSACHT, a tn. and prov., isl. Sardinia, dist. CagHari. The town lies 1. bank, Tirsi, llm. N.E. Oristans ; between two mountains, in a district which is unhealthy but fertile, yielding good crops of grain, and excellent pasture. Pop. 1562. BUSACO [Portuguese, Bussaco], a hill of Portugal, for merly called serra d Aleoba, prov. Beira, 18 m. N. Coimbra. Near its top, in a kind of hollow, stands a Carmelite monastery, commanding a magnificent view, and near which, on September 27, 1810, the French army, under General Massena, was re pulsed by the English and Portuguese, under Lord Wellington. BUSACQU1NO, or BUSSACHINO, a tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 29 m. S. by W. Palermo. It stands upon a height, con tains eight churches, and some manufactures of linen. Pop. 8000. BUSCA, a tn. Sardinian states, Piedmont, prov. of, and 9 m. N.W. Coni, cap. dist. of same name, 1. bank, Maira, an affluent of the Po, It is well situated at the foot of a hill, and contains two handsome churches and a convent. The wine made in the neighbourhood is excellent. Pop. 7900. BUSCOT, par. Eng. Berks; 2910 ac. Pop. 405. BUSHBRUY, par. Eng. Stafford; 7610 ac. Pop. 1509. BUSHEAB, or SHEIK SHAIB [properly KJioskaub, good water], a low and narrow but well-peopled island, about 18m. long, Persian Gulf, lying about 10 m. from the Persian coast ; lat. (E. point) 26 48 N.; Ion. 53 24 E. (R.) On the E. point is a neat-looking village, surrounded with date-trees, which are generally plentiful. BUSHKY, par. Eng. Hertford ; 3130 ac. Pop. 2675. BUSH I RE [properly, Abu Shehr the father of cities], the principal seaport of Persia, prov. Ears, 118 m. W.S.W. Shiraz; lat. 29 N.; Ion. 50 50 15" E. (u.) ; on a low sandy point running N.W., on the side of a bay, N.E. coast, Persian Gulf. The town lies on the edge of a desert, is of a trian gular form, having the sea on two sides, and fortified, on the land side, by a high wall, nearly. 1 m. in length, flanked, at every 200 yards, by a round tower, with loop-holes for mus ketry. It has seven mosques, a few hummums or baths, two caravansaries, and an Armenian church. A large palace, built by the late Sheikh, stands about the centre of the town. The houses are flat-roofed, two stories high, and constructed chiefly of clay, or of a soft sandstone obtained from the ruins of Reshire, a decayed town 4 m. to the S. From a distance, Bushire has rather an imposing appearance, the square funnels or wind chimneys, erected on the tops of a few of the prin cipal houses, for conveying air into the interior during the hot weather, appearing like so many minarets or towers ; but, on a near approach, the town is found to be a mean and dirty place ; with streets, as in most Eastern towns, mere narrow and in tricate lanes, from 6 to 8 ft. wide, half choked up with filth or sand, and infested with crowds of mangy dogs. The bazaar is large and well supplied. Fruit, chiefly brought from Shiraz, may be obtained here all the year round. In the hot season, water melons, grapes, peaches, plums, apri cots, &c., are abundant ; as are also oranges, apples, pears, and pomegranates, in the cold season, with several kinds of dried fruits. Bushire is famous for the fineness of its poul try, and the delicate flavour of its mutton. The sheep, prin cipally brought from the interior, are of a small breed, with immense tails. Bushire carries on a considerable traffic with India ; its merchants, who are principally Armenians or Persians, sup plying the greater part of Persia with Indian and European goods, for which silk and bullion are the principal returns. From Bombay, Masulipatam, and Bengal, it imports chintzes, woollen cloths, muslins, and piece goods ; with hardware and cutlery, indigo, sugar, rice, pepper, and other spices ; cloves, &c. ; and from Europe, by way of India, English cotton prints, and other goods. Among its exports are Cashmere and Persian shawls, dates, and dried fruits ; tobacco, carpets, pearls, Shiraz wines, grain, and wool ; with various drugs, dye-stuffs, and perfumes. An active trade is carried on with Shiraz by means of caravans. The anchorage is indifferent, but is the best on the coast. It consists of an outer road, exposed to the N.W. winds, and a safe inner road, with 4 fathoms water, muddy bottom, 2 in. from the town. In 1831, the plague carried off more than a third of the inhabitants. Pop. (1835), estimated at 20,000. (Kempthorne s Notes of a Survey on (he E. JSJiores of the Persian Gulf, in London Gco.Jour.; Fontanier, Voyage dans I ltule.) BUSHLEY, par. Eng. Worcester; 1740 ac. Pop. 334. BUSHMAN S RIVER, S. Africa, Cape Colony, rising in the S.of Somerset co., flowing generally S.E., forming the boundary between Uitenhage and Albany, and falling into the Indian Ocean, 28 m. S. Graham s Town ; Ion. 26 37 E. BUSHMEN. See BOSJESMANS. BUSHMILLS, a market tn. Ireland, co. Antrim, 6 m. N.E. Coleraine ; on a plain, bounded W. by the Bush- Water, celebrated for its fine salmon, and which falls into the sea a little below the town. It is the general place of resort for persons visiting the Giant s Causeway, about 2 m. distant ; and consists of one principal street, well kept ; houses of whinstone; abundantly supplied with water; one Episcopal church, two Presbyterian, in connection with the Irish Gen eral Assembly ; one Covenanting, one Methodist meeting house, and one R. Catholic chapel, all plain buildings ; two schools, one male and one female, under the national board ; two large corn-mills, two distilleries, one flax-mill, and a manufactory of spades, shovels, &c. Pop. 788. BUSIGNY, a tn. France, dep. Nord, on the rivulet Riot, and at the foot of hills covered with wood, about 12 m. fron: Cambray. It was once a place of considerable importance, and was defended by a castle and several towers. Its manu factures are merinoes and Cashmere shawls. Pop. 2234. BUSK, a tn. Austria, Galicia, gov. of, and 27 m. N.E. Lcmberg, on the Bug. It has several churches, a tannery, and manufactures of paper and iron. The inhabitants live chiefly by fishing in the adjoining lakes. Pop. 2981. BUSKERUD, a bail. Norway, prov. Aggershuus ; area, 4813 sq. m. It lies N. of Bradsberg, W. of Aggershuus baili wick, and E. of Bergenhuus, and contains the towns of Dram- men and Kongsberg. Pop. (1845), 86,113. BUSLINGTHORFE, par. Eng. Lincoln; 1220 ac. P. 50. BUSSAIIER, a Sikh state in N. India, under British pro tection, occupying a mountainous tract, bounded on two sides by the Sutlej and Jumna, stretching N. into the Himalayas; cap. Rampoor; lat. 31 28 N. ; Ion. 77 36 E. It contains some fertile well- cultivated tracts, which produce grain and fruits in abundance. The main articles of traffic are sheep, wool, cattle, ghee, opium, tobacco, and musk. Manufac tures : blankets, and woollen cloths for plaids, trousers, &c. Bussaher has, at all times, carried on a considerable trade with Hindoostan and Tibet ; receiving from the former, sugar, cotton cloths, iron and brass ware, and indigo, in return for blankets, opium, tobacco, and turmeric ; and exporting, to the latter, grain, ghee, opium, tobacco, &c., in exchange for wool, salt, Chinese silks, and tea. BUSSETO [anc. Buxetum], a tn. Italy, duchy of, and 20 m. N.N.W. Parma, r. bank, Ongina, an affluent of the Po. It is tolerably built, surrounded by walls, and contains a col legiate church, in which are some fine pictures ; another parish church, a townhouse, Jesuits college, several schools, a palace, public library, hospital, theatre, and barrack. Manufac tures: silk, woollen, and linen fabrics, earthenware, and wax. Pop. 2200. BUSSOLENGO, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, 9 m. W.N.W. Verona, near r. bank, Adige. It is rather well built, contains two churches and six oratories, has some linen manufactures, and is the centre of an important transit trade between E. Lombardy and the Tyrol. Pop. 3000. BUSSORAH, BASSORA, BALSORA, BASRA, or BAZRA, a city, Turkey in Asia, pash. Bagdad, and principal port of the Persian Gulf, r. bank, Euphrates or Schatt el Arab [river of the Arabs], 70 m. from its mouth, and 44 below the junction of the Tigris, 270 m. S. E. Bagdad ; lat. 30 27 30" N. ; Ion. 47 53 12" E. (R.) It is about 3 m. in length, 1 in breadth, and about 7 in circumference, which, however, includes some corn fields and gardens of date-trees. The town contains about 6000 houses, is ill built, the streets narrow, unpaved, and extremely filthy ; houses mostly constructed of sun-dried bricks, as is also the miserable wall by which the town is surrounded, and in which there are five gates. The only buildings having an appearance of respectability are the Eng lish factory, the residence of the governor, one or two of the principal mosques, and a few of the mansions of the wealthiest inhabitants. Bussorah has a vast number of khans and cof fee-houses, with about 40 mosques ; and is intersected by a BUSSUM 539 BUTE canal, which, besides conveying goods to the city, supplies the inhabitants with water for domestic purposes. Other two canals surround the town, forming a ditch to the fortifi cation. The bazaars are wretched structures, but are, in general, spacious and well stocked, particularly with fruits and vegetables. The Euphrates is tidal as far up as Bus- sorah, and is navigable, to this point, for ships of 500 tons burden ; but there is a bar at its mouth, on which there is generally but 12 ft. water, so that only during spring tides can vessels pass drawing more. Its current is about 2 rn. per hour during the flowing, and 3 in. during the ebb tide. A few British ships from India visit Bussorah annually, but the prin cipal trade is carried on by Arabian vessels. The chief articles of import are, muslins, spices, drugs, rice, sugar, indigo, silk, cotton yarn, dye-woods, coffee, &c., from India ; the returns for which are mostly made in the precious metals, Arabian horses, pearls, dates, copper, gall-nuts, raw silk, gold fringe, corals, gums, rose-water, dried fruits, &c. The horses from Bus sorah, of which great numbers are exported to India annu ally, are of extreme beauty, and capable of enduring much fatigue. Besides its shipping trade, Bussorah carries on an extensive traffic with Aleppo and Bagdad, by means of cara vans. The climate is said to be salubrious during winter and spring, but is certainly very unhealthy in summer, when the town is for mouths surrounded by water from the overflow ing of the Euphrates, which, on its retirement, leaves marshes and ponds, from whose stagnant waters the most noxious ex halations arise. The country around Bussorah is flat and fertile, more espe cially on the banks of the river ; in many respects, indeed, it resembles Egypt, both in climate, fruitfulness, and in the overflowings of the great river, to which much of its fertility is due. The cultivated grounds yield corn, dates, olives, pomegranates, vegetables, and pot herbs. Fruits of all kinds abound. There are, besides, entire fields of roses grown for the distillation of the attar of roses, and for the manufacture of rose water. Bussorah belongs to the Turks, having been taken by them from the Arabs, in 1787. It is governed by a mutselim or lieutenant, in the name of the pasha of Bagdad. Pop. 60,000. (Chesney s Euphrates Expedition ; Fontanier, Voyage dans Vlnde.} BUSSUM, a vil. Holland, prov. N. Holland, 13 m. S.E. Amsterdam, on a dry sandy soil, which cultivation has clothed with useful crops. It has a small II. Catholic church, a Ke- formed chapel, and a school. Owing to the healthiness of the neighbourhood, many handsome lodging-houses have been erected here for strangers. Besides agriculture, the inhabit ants are engaged in the making of ships -biscuit, soap, paint, linen fabrics, such as towelling, pack-sheet, bed-covers, and floor-cloths, and in bleaching. Pop. 740. BUSTAR [anc. Wasatairee], a tn. and dist. Hindoostan, in the Deccan, prov. Gundwana. The TOWN is in lat. 19 31 N. ; Ion. 82 28 E. ; 300 m. N.E. Hyderabad. The DIS TRICT is difficult of access, and has a very insalubrious climate, and is occupied by a branch of the range of mountains that runs N. and S. parallel to the Bay of Bengal, in the rear of Cuttack and the N. Circars. Teak-wood abounds here, and through the rivers Inderowty and Godavery it is floated down to the Bay of Bengal ; but it is only of size sufficient for the construction of such vessels as navigate the Coromandel coast. Nearly the whole country consists of jungly hills, and of pes tilential morasses ; the remainder is badly cultivated. The natives live almost in a state of nature, and are extremely ignorant and superstitious. BUSTARD BAY, a bay, Australia, E. coast ; lat. 24 4 S.; Ion. 151 50 E.; discovered by Capt. Cook, in 1770, and named by him from a species of bustard which he found there. The country around is dry and sandy, but the hills are covered with trees, growing separately and without under wood. BUSTO-ARSIZIO, a tn. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. of, and 19m. N. W. Milan, cap. dist. of same name, in a fertile plain, which produces much excellent wine. It contains two churches, one of them an octangular edifice, with numerous statues and fine paintings, by Daniel Crespi, a native of the town ; and has manufactures of fustian and dimity. The re mains of ancient buildings found in the neighbourhood, show that Busto was formerly a place of considerable importance. The DISTRICT produces corn, wine, mulberry-trees, and fodder, but great part of it is barren heath. Pop. of tn. and com. 10,025 ; of dist. 29,342. BUSULUK, or BOUZOULOUK, a tn. Russia, gov. of, and 150 m. W.N.W. Orenburg, cap. dist. of same name, 1. bank, Samara. It is fortified, has straight regular streets, and con tains two churches. It manufactures leather, trades in wood, and has an important annual fair. Pop. about 1500. _ BUSVAGON, an isl. Indian Archipelago, one of the Cala- mianes, a group of the Philippines, S. side of the Mindoro Strait ; lat. (W. point) 12 8 N. ; Ion. 120 2 E. (R.), separated S. by a narrow strait from the island of Calamianes, and hav ing numerous small islets off its N. coast. It is about 50 m long, E. to W., and about 13 m. broad, mountainous but fertile. Birds, deer, wild hogs, apes, and rats, are very num erous, and commit great devastation on the cultivated lands. BUTCHER S ISLAND, a small green isl. India, in the harbour of Bombay, between the islands Caranja and Salsette. BUTCOMBE, par. Eng. Somerset ; 2010 ac. Pop. 256. BUTE, a co. Scotland, Frith of Clyde, comprising the islands of Bute, Arran, Inchmarnock, and the two Cumbraes (wTucJisec). Pop. 16,608. BUTE, an isl. Scotland, W. coast, co. of same name, at the mouth of the Frith of Clyde, the N.W. portion being in dented into the mainland of Cowal, Argyleshire, from which it is separated by a narrow strait called the Kyles of Bute, and the S.E. stretching out into the open Frith, between the peninsula of Cantyre on the W., and the coast of Ayr on the E. Its centre is in about lat. 55 50 N.; Ion. 5 4 W., 40 m. W. Glasgow, and 18 m. S.W. Greenock. Extreme length, about 15m.; greatest breadth, 5 m. Its coast line, which, exclusive of minute sinuosities, is about 35 m. in length, is indented by several bays and good natural harbours, the principal of which are the bays of llothesay, Kilchattan, Kamcs or Port Banna- tyne on the E. ; and those of Dungoil, Stravannan, Scalpsie, St. Ninian s, and Ettrick, on the W The island has little of what is called romantic scenery to boast of, but is dis tinguished in many parts for its quiet picturesque beauty; besides commanding, although it does not in itself possess, some of the most magnificent views in Scotland, especially towards the Kyles. It has no remarkable elevations, its highest summit, Kames Hill, being only 875 ft. high ; but it has several pretty little lakes, the principal and most beauti ful of which is Loch Fad, 2| m. long by a quarter in breadth, on the banks of which is the favourite villa of the late cele brated tragedian, Edmund Kean. The other lakes next in extent, are Ascog and Stack. All the three lakes lie within less than half a mile of each other. Bute is naturally and geologically divided into four distinct portions. The Garroch Head, forming the extreme S. portion, is ridgy and hilly, and is composed almost entirely of trap rocks ; proceeding N., the next division, between Kilchattan Bay and Rothesay Bay, on the W., and Scalpsie Bay on the E., is composed, with slight exceptions, of red sandstone ; the third portion, extending from Scalpsie Bay to Ettrick Bay, consists of chlorite slate ; and the fourth and last division, between Ettrick Bay and the Kyles of Bute, of micaceous schist. Lime, coal, and slate, are found in the island, but they are all of inferior quality. The climate of Bute is so remarkable for salubrity, as to have obtained for the island the appellation of the Montpellier of Scotland. It is on this account much resorted to by invalids. Agriculture is in an advanced state, and is yearly improv ing. A complete system of draining has been introduced, and the most approved rotation in crops is observed. The more recently built farm-houses are neat and commodious, and the grounds generally well enclosed, chiefly with thorn hedges. There are 10,541 acres under cultivation. Average yearly rent of land, about 18s. 6d. per acre. Great attention is paid to the dairy, and the cheese made is of excellent quality. The cows are all of the Ayrshire breed. The agricultural interests of the island have been greatly promoted by the Bute farmers society, which grants yearly premiums for the best ploughing, for the best cattle, cheese, butter, seeds, roots, &c., and for the encouragement of cleanliness among the cottagers. The I sea-coast abounds with fish, including salmon, cod, haddock, whitings, &c. The means of education are ample, there being [ many well-conducted schools throughout the island. The j consequence is, that there is scarcely a native inhabitant above 15 years of age, who cannot read and write. This island was long a favourite resort of the Kings of BUTEKA 540 BUXTON Scotland, who resided in their Castle of Rothesay (which see), now a stately and interesting ruin. Bute gives the Scotch title of Earl, and the British title of Marquis, to a branch of the family of Stewart, descended from a younger son of Robert II. Mount Stuart, the family seat, is beautifully situated, 4 in. from Rothesay. The Marquis of Bute is prin cipal proprietor, six-sevenths of the island being his property. Pop. 10.661. BUTERA, a tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 21 m. S.S.E. Cal- tanicette, near r. bank, Menfra. Pop. 4081. BUTI, a tn. Tuscany, dist of, and 9 m. E. Pisa, in a nar row dell of the same name, formed by a spur from the E. side of Mount Pisano, and traversed by a rapid mountain-torrent, an affluent of Lake Brentina. It is surrounded by a castle, and contains a parish church. The climate is cold and moist, and the ground not favourable to cultivation. Still, by in dustry, it yields excellent olives, from which is obtained the best oil in Tuscany. Pop. 4091. BUTLEIGII, par. Eng. Somerset ; 4670 ac. Pop. 872. BUTLERS-MARSTON, par. Eng. Warwick ; 1620 ac. Pop. 313. BUTLEY, par. Eng. Suffolk; 1690 ac. Pop. 364. BUTOW, a tn. Prussia, Pomerania, gov. of, and 50 m. E. Koslin, on the Biitow ; in a valley, surrounded by hills of considerable elevation ; with three churches, woollen and linen manufactures, and a wool fair. A height in the neigh bourhood is crowned with the ruins of an old castle. Pop. 2150. BUTRINTO, a fortified tn. and bay, Turkey in Europe, Albania, 15 m. S.W. Delvino, opposite the island of Corfu. The town is in lat. 39 44 N. ; Ion. 20 2 E. Shallow water extends all across the head of the bay ; but in the middle, large ships find good anchorage, with 20 fathoms water. The town is fortified, and is the residence of a Greek bishop. In its vicinity are the ruins of the Buthrotum of the ancients. Pop. 2000. BUTSCHOWITZ, a market tn. Austria, Moravia, circle of, and 21 m. E.S.E. Briinn, on the Littawa. It contains a large and strong castle, belonging to Prince Liechtenstein, and has woollen and linen manufactures, particularly one of cassimeres. Pop. of tn. 2000. BUTTERLEIGH, par. Eng. Devon ; 2520 ac. Pop. 155. BUTTERLEY, a hamlet, England, co. Derby, 3 m. S. Alfreton. It is the seat of extensive ironworks. In the neighbourhood is a large reservoir, for supplying the Notting ham Canal. BUTTERMERE, par. Eng. Wilts ; 1340 ac. Pop. 130 BUTTERWICK, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 1370 ac. Pop. 579. BUTTES, a vil. and par. Switzerland, can. of, and 19 m. S.W. Neufchatel, in a valley so narrow and hemmed in by mountains, that from part of the village the sun is not visible during three winter months. The Fairies Grotto, in the vicinity, is one of the most remarkable in Switzerland. A great number of the inhabitants are clock and watch makers. Pop. 1000. BUTTEVANT, a tn. and par. Ireland, co. Cork. The town stands on the Awbeg, 23 m. N. W. Cork. Having been the seat of a number of opulent monastic communities, it was at one time a place of considerable importance, but has now fallen into utter decay. The houses are of the humblest description, intermingled with the ruins of churches and monasteries. The town contains extensive barracks for infantry, a fever hospital, a dispensary, and two R. Cath olic chapels. A little to the E., is the castle of Buttevant, on a high rock, overhanging the Awbeg. Spenser, the poet, resided in the vicinity ; and there, it is said, wrote the Faery Queen. Buttevant gave the title of Viscount, in the Irish peerage, to the Barrymore family. Fairs are held on March 27, and October 14. Pop. of tn. 1524. Area of par., including Ballybeg, 11,583 ac. Pop. 5042. BUTTINGTON, par., N. Wales, Montgomery. Pop. 826. BUTTISHOLZ, a vil. and par. Switzerland, can. of, and lira. N.W. Luzern, on a tributary of the Wigger, and re markable for a mound in its vicinity, called the Englander- hubel or English barrow, from containing the bones of 3000 Englishmen, followers of Ingelram de Coucy, son-in-law of Edward III., and Duke of Bedford, who, having a feud with Leopold of Austria, was devastating the Swiss cantons, when the peasants attacked and defeated him. Pop. 1 708. BUTTOLPTIS, par. Eng. Sussex ; 910 ac. Pop. 48. BUTTON NESS, a prominent headland, Scotland, co. Forfar, N. side the entrance into the Frith of Tay ; lat. 56 28 N. ; Ion. 2 40 W. There are two lighthouses here, ivith bright fixed lights, on separate towers. BUTTSBURY, par. Eng. Essex ; 1440 ac. Pop. 52 1 . BUTTSTADT, a tn. Saxe-Weimar, cap. bail, of same name, llm. N.N.E. Weimar. It contains a handsome church, and five schools; has manufactures of woollens and hosiery ; also a potash-work, and mills; and five large fairs, chiefly for horses. Pop. 2164. The BAILIWICK, area, 48 geo. sq. m., contains three towns and 20 villages. Pop. 13,500. BUTZ, a vil. Switzerland, can. Aargau, 7 m. N. Aarau. Pop. 250, R. Catholics. BiJTZOW, a town, Mecklenburg-Schwerin, on the Mar- now, and in the neighbourhood of a lake. It is walled, and well built. The town church, built in 1229, has some fine wood carvings ; and the Reformed church is the only one of that denomination in the duchy. Biitzow has a paper-mill, worked by steam ; and numerous manufactures linen cloth, soap, and candles, playing cards, straw hats, and shoes. It has also numerous breweries, and a stone quarry. The town owes much of its prosperity to the exiles driven from France by the persecutions of the 17th century. Pop. 3894. BUVIESCA, a tn. Spain, Old Castile, prov. of, and 20 m. N.N.E. Burgos, in a plain, 1. bank, Oca. It has clean, paved, and spacious streets, two squares, two churches, of which the collegiate one is a beautiful edifice, containing some fine sculptures ; two well-attended schools, a townhall, prison, hospital, public storehouse, two fountains, and a cemetery. Cattle-rearing and agriculture are the chief employments. In 1388, Juan I., at the instance of John of Gaunt, here gave his son the title of Prince of the Asturias. Pop. 2064. (Madoz.) BUTZBACH, a vil. Hesse-Darmstadt, gov. Fricdberg, 20 m. N.N.W. Frankfort-on-the-Main. It is walled, and has two parish churches, and an old castle, now used as barracks. Its chief manufactures are hosiery, leather, and locks. It has seven annual fairs. Pop. 2300. BUXAR (BAGSAIX), a fortified tn. Hindoostan, prov. Bahar, r. bank, Ganges, here 1 m. broad, 60 m. E.N.E. Benares; lat. 25 33 N. ; Ion. 83 57 E. It is rather large ; houses of the usual character in India, mud and thatch, with a few good bungalows, inhabited by Europeans. The small fort is built on an eminence near the river ; and is surrounded by a broad deep ditch. It is kept in good repair, and garrisoned by sepoys. The Mogul chiefs, Shuja ud Dowlah, and Cossim Khan, were encamped here with an army com puted at 40,000 men, when, on October 23, 1764, they were attacked and completely routed, by 856 European, and 6215 native troops, under Major Munro. BUXHALL, par. Eng. Suffolk ; 2120 ac. Pop. 533. BUXTED, par. Eng. Sussex ; 7020 ac. Pop. 1574. BUXTEHUDE, a tn. Hanover, duchy of Bremen, dist. Stade, 12 m. S.W. Hamburg, r. bank, Este, about 7 m. above its junction with the Elbe. It has walls, with several gates ; and its houses, though indifferently built, are lofty. It is the seat of a civil and criminal court ; and contains a gymnasium, a handsome parish church, a townhall, and court-house. Its chief manufactures are white iron, soap, candles, wax, starch, chicory, and tobacco. It has also oil and tan mills, and lime kilns ; exports : timber, oak bark, honey, and wax ; and has several annual fairs. Some of the inhabitants are employed in fishing. Pop. 2223. BUXTON. 1, A tn. and fashionable watering-place, Eng land, co. of, and 29 m. W.N.W. Derby, in a deep hollow, sur rounded by hills. It has two principal streets, straight, clean, and lighted with gas ; several handsome ranges of houses, and a fine crescent, all of stone ; two churches, and Wesleyan, Independent, and Presbyterian chapels ; two schools (one en dowed), and a bath charity. The accommodation for visitors, who come to drink the waters, and amount to many thousands annually, is very complete ; excellent hotels and lodging- houses, baths, assembly-rooms, and pump-room. Races in June. The vicinity abounds in fine scenery ; and there is a vast stalactitic cavern, called Pool s Hole, adjacent. Public walks, provided by the Duke of Devonshire, 14 acres in ex tent. Pop. (1841), 1569. (Local Correspondent.} 2, par. Norfolk; 1460 ac. Pop 713. BUZANgAIS 511 CABECO DE VIDE BUZANGAIS, a tn. France, dep. Indre, 14 m. N.W. Chateauroux, r. bank, Indre, here crossed by five bridges. The town is finely situate on an acclivity, and in a beautiful district ; but its streets are narrow, dark, and crooked, and the houses indifferent. It has manufactures of woollen goods, a worsted, and some extensive flour mills ; and trades in wool and leeches. There are ironworks in the neighbourhood. Pop. 3139. BUZEN, a prov. Japan, in N. of isl. Kiusiu, and separated from Niphon by the Strait of Van der Capellen, here scarcely 1 m. across. It is bounded, N. by the sea, and at the other points by the provs. of Tsikuzen and Bungo ; is in the form of a fan; lies between lat. 33 23 and 34 N.; Ion. 130 40 and 131 23 E.; and comprises 23 islands, all unimportant. The principal mountains are Fikosan, Ohotake, Kwansan, Tensan, Mikunijama, Kawarajama, Firatojama, and Kuratoge. The mountain-chains of three adjacent provinces converge at the S. border of Buzen, thence traversing the province of Bungo, in an E. direction, to the shores of the sea. The principal valley is that of Sakaigawa, besides which there are those of Siwa- gawa, Wogawa, Uigawa, Takesegawa, and Mumajagawa ; the rivers bearing the four last-mentioned names take their rise in Fikosan, and fall into the sea at Nakat s Creek, between the point Hajatomo and Cape Nagasakihana. The cap. of Buzen is Kokura. Dairi, Tanoura, Matsjama, Kancla, Imai, Sita, and Nakat s, are excellent ports. Buzen is extremely fertile ; principal products wheat, barley, buckwheat, silk, wax, and honey. Charcoal is made; copper and antimony are found. At Kokura there is a manufactory of cottons of superior quality ; and a syrup, called ame, is made from wheat. Buzen is divided into eight districts; and has 54 towns, villages, and ports. Two of the towns are fortified. BUZZARD S BAY, U. States, S. coast, Massachusetts, opposite Barnstable Bay ; lat. 41 25 to 41 42 N. ; Ion. 70 33 to 71 10 W. It is 30 m. long, and 7 broad, and separated from Cape Cod Bay by an isthmus only 5 m. across. BY AM MARTIN. 1, An isl. Arctic Ocean, one of the N. Georgian group ; lat. 75 N. ; Ion. 104 8 W. (E.) ; be tween Melville and Bathurst Islands. Discovered by Parry, 1819-20. 2, An isl., S. Pacific Ocean, one of the Low Islands; lat. 19 40 S. ; Ion. 140 29 W. (R.) 3, A cape, W. coast, Baffin s Bay, near the entrance of Lancaster Sound ; lat. 73 20 N. ; Ion. 78 W. BYFIELD, par. Eng. Northampton ; 2760 ac. Pop. 1 079. BYFLEET, par. Eng. Surrey; 2060 ac. Pop. 672. BYFORD, par. Eng. Hereford; 910 ac. Pop. 236. BYGRAVE, par. Eng. Hertford; 1860 ac. Pop. 151. BYKHOV, several places, Russia: particularly 1, Bylchov-Staroi, gov. of, and 30 m. S. Mogilev, a little W. of r. bank, Dnieper. It is defended by ancient fortifications, and has several churches, convents, and a synagogue. Pop. 3900. 2, Bykhov-Novo, at a short distance from the former. 3, Bykhov, gov. Tchernigov, and not far from Kroloveton. BYLAND (OLD), par. Eng. York, N. Riding; 3120 ac. Pop. 185. BYLAUGH, par. Eng. Norfolk; 1580 ac. Pop. 85. BYRON S ISLAND, a small isl., S. Pacific, about 12 m. in length, abounding in cocoa trees. Discovered by Commo dore Byron in 1765; lat. 1 18 S.; Ion. 177 45 E. (R.) BYSKE, a river, Sweden, which falls into the Gulf of Bothnia in lat. 64 57 N., after a direct S.E. course of 1 10 m. At its mouth is the small town of Byskea. BYTHAM, two pars. Eng. Lincoln: 1, BiftJtam (Castle], 7760 ac. Pop. 855. 2, Eytham (Little], 101 ac. Pop. 31 1. BYTHORN, par. Eng. Huntingdon ; 1510 ac. Pop. 322. BYTON, par. Eng. Hereford; 1030 ac. Pop. 172. BYTOWN, a tn. Upper or W. Canada, dist. town of Dalhousie district, 92 m. N.E. Kingston, r. bank, Ottawa, at the junction of the Rideau Canal with that river; lat. 45 23 N. ; Ion. 75 38 W. It is divided into two portions, called Upper and Lower Bytown ; the former, which is situated half a mile higher up the river, and on considerably higher ground, is the most aristocratic, the latter the most business portion of the town. Bytown is rapidly improving in appear ance, and now contains several handsome stone buildings, including the jail and court-house. There are five churches and chapels in the lower town, namely, one Free church, two Methodist, one Baptist, and one R. Catholic. In the upper town there are three, namely, one Episcopal, one Presbyterian, and one Methodist. The town is supported principally by the lumber trade. The scenery about Bytown is, next to Niagara, the finest of the inhabited portion of Canada. The Chaudiere Falls, a short distance above the town, are beautiful. A handsome suspension bridge has been erected across the Ottawa below the Falls, joining Upper anu Lower Canada. Pop. (1849), about 7000. BYTURNEY, or VAITURANI, a river, Hindoostan, rising in the mountainous region of Chuta Nagpoor, prov. Bahar, and, after a S.E. course of from 300 to 400 m., and receiving various tributaries, falling into the Bay of Bengal, a little N. Point Palmyras, near Doomrah ; lat. 20 37 N. BY WELL, two pars. Eng. Northumberland:!, Byicell (St. Andrew s), 3680 ac. Pop. 452. 2, Bywell (St. Peter s], 21,780 ac. Pop. 1512. c. For ARTICLES not found in C, look K, S, Teh, or Z. CAACATY, an Indian vil., state of, and 77 m. E. by S. the tn. of Corrientes, republic of La Plata. It lies in the Maloya marsh, and its houses are low, small, and each fur nished with a gallery on either side. Caacaty means stink ing wood, a name derived from the odour of a wood in the vicinity. Pop. 800. CABABURI, a river, Brazil, a tributary of the Rio Negro, formed by the junction of the Mataraca and Baria, which unite at lat. 1 25 N.; Ion. 66 15 W. From this point, the river pursues a S. course for 120 m., and falls into the Rio Negro at lat. 10 S.; Ion. 66 30 W. CABAGAN, a tn., isl. Luzon, prov. Cagayan; it is the second largest town in the prov., containing a pop. of 11,185. CABALABA, a river, Dutch Guiana, a tributary of the Corentyn, which it joins about lat. 5 N.; Ion. 57 3 W. It is about 100 yards wide at its mouth, but is broader 6 m. higher up. It is extremely winding in its course, and its water is of an ochreous colour. The banks exhibit all the luxu riance of a rich soil, and the wild Arnotto grows plentifully along its margin, with the splendid flowers of the Cassia Caly- antlia towering over them. About 17 m. above its junction with the Corentyn, a cascade occurs of 20 ft. in height, called, by the Indians, ItaYe or Itafia Falls. Here blocks of a fine grained whitish sandstone are found, which are used by the Indians as grindstones, and are of excellent quality. The Cabalaba is frequently visited by the Maroons on fishing expeditions. (Schomburgk.) CABANES, a tn. Spain, Valencia, prov. of, and ] 4 m. N. by E. Castellon-de-la-Plana. The streets are well built and regular, and the town possesses a handsome parish church, two schools, a townhall, and a prison. Domestic weaving, distilling brandy, expressing oil, and husbandry, employ the inhabitants. Some trade is carried on in grain, fruits, cattle, &c. Pop. 1916. CABAPUANA [called also, erroneously, Campuan, Ee- ritigba, and Muribeca], a river, Brazil, prov. Espirito Santo. It rises in the N. slopes of the sierra de Pico, flows S.E., and falls into the Atlantic in lat. 21 25 S., after a direct course of 80 m., of which about 30 are navigable for canoes. A kind of bay is formed at its mouth, in which there is anchor age in 7 to 8 fathoms water. CABECO DE VIDE, a tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Alem- tejo, dist. Portalegre, on a height, 27 m. N.N.W. Evora. It contains a church, two hospitals, and a poorhouse. Pop 1043. CABELLO 542 CABOOL CABELLO (PUERTO), a considerable seaport tn. Vene zuela, on the Caribbean Sea ; lat. 10 ; 30 N. ; Ion. 68 8 W. It has a good harbour, and a large trade, but is iu a very unhealthy situation ; and has a pop. of only 3000. CABELLOS DA VELHA, a bay, Brazil, prov. Maranhao. It is about 8 m. square, and is interspersed with islands and sandbanks, rendering it difficult of access. It is intersected by lat. 1 40 S. CABENDA, or KABINDA, a seaport tn. Africa, Lower Guinea, cap. of the En-Goyo or Angoy territory, on the Allan- ! tic, about 40 m. N. the mouth of the Zaire ; lat. 5 33 S. ; Ion. 15 40 E. ; on the side of a hill which is of a conical form, and clothed to the top with fine timber. The anchorage here is good, and there was long a considerable trade in slaves, ivory, wax. and honey. The territory around is fertile, and the whole district is justly regarded as the finest on this coast. CABES, or KABES. 1, A tn. and port [anc. Tacapa], N. Africa, regency, Tunis. The town stands at the foot of the mountain called Jebel Hamarra, in a low situation, r. bank, Wad-er-rif; lat. 33 45 N.; Ion. 10 E. It has some export trade in dates and henna, the latter for dyeing. 2, The Gulf of Cabes [Syrtis Minor] , at the head of which the town is situated, lies between the islands of Kerkenna and Jerba. CABESA DEL BCEY, a tn. Spain, Estremadura, prov. Badajoz, 20 m. E.S.E. Castuera, on the N. slope of the sierra Pedregoso. It is tolerably built, and possesses two parish churches, several chapels, a townhall, two schools, a small damp prison, hospital, public storehouse, and three fountains. The inhabitants manufacture serge, baize, cloth, linen fabrics, tiles, and bricks ; and carry on some trade in grain, cattle, and manufactured goods. Pop. 5395. CABEZAS DE SAN JUAN, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 24 m. S. by W. Seville, on the slope of a hill. It | has steep, irregular, and ill-paved streets ; two small squares, a parish church, three chapels, two schools, a townhouse, small prison, asylum for destitute poor, and an extensive and substantial storehouse. Limited trade in wine, cattle, and agricul tural produce. Pop. 2421. CABEZON DE LA SAL, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 24 m. W.S.W. Santander, situate in a plain. It has mean streets, two squares, a parish church, townhall, two schools, prison, cemetery, and several foun tains. The inhabitants are engaged in weaving, refining salt, and in husbandry. An annual fair is held on the 16th of April. Pop. 2047. Several other small towns in Spain have the same name. CABEZUELA, a tn. Spain, Estremadura, prov. Caceres, 16m. N.E. Plasencia, 1. bank, Jerte. The streets are clean and paved, and the town possesses a church, townhouse, two schools, and a pri son. The people are chiefly engaged in silk-spinning, express ing oil, and tillage ; they also trade in grain, wine, fruit, and cattle. Pop. 2328. CABO DO KOKTE, a cape, Brazilian Guiana ; lat. 1 51 N. ; Ion. 50 10 W. It is the E. point of the marshy island of Coelhos, formed in the delta of the river Araguari. CABO FRIO, an ancient tn. and port, Brazil, prov. of, and 80 m. E. Rio de Janeiro, and about 8 m. N.N.W. the cape of same name. It is composed of two parts ; the most inconsiderable, called Passagem, lies on the mainland, while the principal part of the town lies on a kind of island. Be tween the two parts, which are united by a stone bridge, flows a canal, connecting the neighbouring lake Ararauma with the sea. The streets are broad, but crooked ; the principal part of the houses are built of earth ; and tie most note- worthy edifices are the townhall, with the prison underneath, a con vent, a parish, and two other churches. Cabo Frio has a Latin school, one of philosophy, and several other schools ; and its climate is unhealthy, agues being frequent. The bay [ and port are well protected. Coffee, sugar, and building | timber, are exported to Rio de Janeiro, whence, in return, are brought jerked beef, salt fish, and general stores. Pop. 3500. The CAPE is in lat. 23 1 18" S.; Ion. 41 58 15" E. (R.) CABOOL (KINGDOM OF). See AFGHANISTAN. CABOOL, a prov. in the N.E. of Afghanistan, extending N. to S. from the Hindoo Koosh to Ghuznee ; and W. to E. from Bamian to the Khyber Mountains. It is about 200 in. in length, E. to W., and 150 in breadth ; area, about 10,000 sq. m. Its principal towns are Cabool (the capital), Istalif, Ghuziiee, and Jelalabad. CABOOL, CAUBUL, or KABOOL, a city, Afghanistan, cap. of the above prov., at the W. extremity of a fine and sp acious plain, on the 1. bank of the Cabool river, immediately above its confluence with the Logurh, GOOO ft. above the sea ; lat. 34 3(X N. ; Ion. 69 10 E. The city is about 5 m. in circuit, and is defended merely by a line of weak ramparts, incapable of successfully resisting the attack of an enemy, although for merly surrounded bya strong wall of burnt bricks and mud. Its length, E. to W., is a little upwards of 2 m. ; and its breadth, at the widest part, about 1200 yards. The houses are but slightly and indifferently built, generally of mud and unburnt bricks. They are mostly two or three stories in height, with flat roofs, made of boards, coated with mud, and surrounded by a coarse framework of wood, and having the windows, notwithstanding the severity of the weather in winter, unglazed, and closed merely by lattices or shutters. The houses of the wealthier classes have extensive courts and gardens, ornamented with fountains. Few of the houses of Cabool have chimneys, the centre of the room being held the proper place for the tire, al though in some of the better dwellings there are especial winter apartments, heated by flues. The streets are, in general, ex tremely narrow, in many cases so contracted that two horsemen THE B.U.A HTSSAR, rABOOL.-From 8ale Defence of Mulubad. cannot pass each other. They are paved with stone, but the pavement is much neglected, and in winter they are rendered almost impassable by the accumulations of snow thrown from the roofs of the houses, and never removed till it dissolves, when a mixture of snow-water and mud keep the streets for a long time in a miserable condition. There are no public buildings of any note in the city; even the places of worship are very ordinary looking buildings, although many are spa cious and commodious. There is but one madrussa or college, and it has neither endowments nor scholars. Serafs or cara vansaries, and baths, are numerous, but the former are in elegant and inconvenient, and the latter disgustingly filthy. There are two principal bazaars, running nearly parallel to each other, one of which is three-quarters of a mile in length. But the most magnificent resort of this kind in Cabool, con structed by Ali Murdan Khan, was destroyed by the British in 1842. It is said to have been one of the most splendid structures of the kind in the East, consisting of a series of covered arcades and open areas, and was highly embellished with paintings, and provided with wells and fountains. Be- CABOURN 543 CACEEES fore the shops in the bazaars are a kind of counters, on which the shopman sits with his wares displayed. The manufactures of Cabool are trifling, and are confined chiefly to iron, leather, and the weaving of cotton, and shawls in imitation of Cashmere, the principal support of the town being derived from a consid erable transit trade. The artisans, generally, are but indiffer ently skilled in their trades. In Cabool, the several descriptions of traders and artisans congregate, as is usual in Eastern cities, and together are found the shops of drapers, saddlers, braziers, ironmongers, armourers, bookbinders, venders of shoes, &c. But besides the shopkeepers, or fixed tradesmen, there are vast numbers of itinerant traders who parade the bazaars, and it is probable, says Masson, that the cries of this city equal in variety those of London. Many of them are identical, and the old clothes-man of the British metropolis is perfectly represented by the Moghat of Cabool. Besides the bazaars, there are several market-places in the town. These are the cattle-market on the N. side of the river, where sales of all sorts of animals are effected daily ; the grain-markets, of which there are two, and the fruit-market, into which large quan tities of the finest, the most beautiful, and the most various fruits arc daily poured, to be afterwards dispersed amongst the retail venders of the city. There are likewise markets for wood and charcoal. Water is abundant, the S. part of the city being supplied by a canal from the river, and the other parts by numerous wells. Cabool is divided into districts, and these are subdivided into sections, each well enclosed and accessible only by small gates, which are walled up in time of siege or intestine war, and thus each section becomes a fortress. On the S.E. side of the city, but connected with it by streets and lanes, stands the Bala Ilissar on the acclivity of a hill, a citadel and residence of the Sovereign. It is about half a mile long and a quarter broad, enclosed by lofty stone walls, strengthened at intervals by towers, and the whole surrounded by a broad stagnant moat. Within this circuit is a town con taining nearly 10UO houses, and a good bazaar. The royal palace, which occupies the summit of the hill, has a sombre external appearance, but commands several beautiful views, particularly towards the N., where the distant snowy masses of the Hindoo Koosh terminate the prospect. It is substan tially constructed, and contains several suites of apartments, on a commodious and magnificent scale. In the S. W. quarter of the town is a strongly fortified district, called Chandol, in habited by Kuzzulbaushes, or Persians, to the number of 10,000 or 12,000. Pushtoo is the vernacular dialect of Cabool, but is spoken, for the most part, by the lower classes only, the higher orders speaking Persian. The people of Cabool are generally tall, with dark black eyes and marked features. The women are said to have both beauty of face and elegance of form, but they are rarely seen abroad ; and when they do ap pear out of doors, they are so enveloped in a peculiar dress called the boorku, that neither feature nor form are distin guishable. In fine weather the men live much abroad, but in winter all who can afford to remain within doors do so dur ing the whole season. As Cabool stands at an elevation of 6396 ft. above the sea, the winters are very severe, setting in at the beginning of October, and continuing to the end of March. In summer, again, the heat is considerable, the ther mometer in the shade at noon being found to range, on differ ent days in August, from 91 to 75. During the summer and autumnal months, but chiefly during the latter, the city is visited every evening by a khak-bad or whirlwind, some what impetuous, but of short duration. Attached to the city are several places of burial, the larger without the walls, which, in general, much resemble Euro pean localities of similar character. In summer, from the influx of merchants, and people from all parts of the country, the city is densely inhabited, and the streets and bazaars crowded with strangers. The general appearance of Cabool is by no means particularly attractive ; but this circumstance is in part compensated by the singular beauty of the surround ing scenery, composed of delightful gardens, orchards, and groves. In 1839, Cabool was taken possession of by a British army, which, in 1842, was entirely annihilated by the perfidy of the Afghans, one man only, out of 3849 soldiers and 12,000 camp followers, having escaped. It was, however, recap tured in the same year by the British, when the treachery of the Afghans was amply avenged. Pop. about 60,000. CABOURN, par. Eng. Lincoln; 2860 ac. Pop. 166. CABRA, or KABRA, a tn., N.W. Africa, Soudan, 5 m. S. Timbuctoo, 1. bank, Niger ; lat. 17 N. ; Ion. 2 58 W. Pop. about 1200. CABRA [anc. JEyabrum\, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 29 m. S.S.E. Cordova, in a valley almost environed by mountains. It has wide, and, with few exceptions, clean and paved streets; a large, irregular, but imposing-look ing square, with four smaller ones ; two large and handsome parish churches, containing tine monuments and pictures ; and numerous conventual churches ; a richly endowed college ; Latin, normal, and many other schools ; an hospital, poor- house, and orphan asylum, united in a Dominican convent ; a theatre, town and court houses, prison, and, on the W., over looking all, an ancient castle and palace of the Dukes of Sessa, within whose ruined walls is an extensive cemetery. Manu factures : linen fabrics, soap, hats, cloth, earthenware, hard ware, lime, and gypsum. There are also brandy distilleries, dyeworks, tanneries, stone and marble works, and oil-mills. Trade : iron, timber, manufactured goods, rice, paper, silk, and potatoes. An annual fair is held for cattle, grain, and general merchandise. Pop. 9576. (Madoz.) CABRA DEL SANTO CRiSTO, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 28 m. S.E. Jaen, on the E. slope of the sierra Cruzada. It possesses a square, several wide, straight, well-paved streets ; a parish church, townhall, two schools, a prison, public store house, and cemetery. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in domestic weaving, expressing oil, and husbandry. Pop. 2000. CABRACH, par. Scot. Banff. Pop. 827. CABRAS, a vil., isl. Sardinia, prov. Busachi, 2 m. W. N. W. Oristano, on a lagoon which furnishes the best fish in the island. Corn, wine, and excellent raisins are produced in the neighbourhood. Pop. 2800. CABRERA, an isl. Greece. See KABRERA. CABRERA, an isl. belonging to Spain, in the Mediter ranean, one of the Balearic group, 10 m. S.W. by S. Cape Salinas, in Majorca ; lat. 39 7 30" N. ; Ion. 3 E. ; 3f m. in length, S.W. to N.E., and 2| in breadth. It is mountain ous and rugged ; the hills are covered with pine, box, &c. The only buildings are the old castle, inhabited by a governor, a captain, surgeon, and 14 men, detached from Palina as a garrison, with a few household servants. CABRIEL, a river, Spain, which rises near the sources of the Tagus and the Jucar, in the sierra Molina, New Cas tile, and pursuing a circuitous S. course of about 130m.; during which the only tributary, of any consequence, which it receives, is the Moya, on its 1. bank; it joins 1. bank, Jucar, near the borders of Valencia. CABUL. See CABOOL. CAgAPEBA, a tn. Brazil, prov. Sao Pedro, 70 m. S.W. Pardo ; with a church and school. The inhabitants are chiefly Indians, engaged in rearing cattle, which they sell in the province of Sao Paulo. Pop., tn. and dist., 3000. CACCAMO, atn. Sicily, dist. Termini, 18 m. W. Palermo. Pop. 6394. CACCAVONE, a tn. Naples, prov. Sannio, 3 m. S.W. . Agnone. It has tliree churches, and a house of refuge. Good wine is produced in the neighbourhood. Pop. 2247. CACCURI, a vil. Naples, prov. Principato Ultra II., dist. of, and 20m. N.W. Cotrone. It stands on a sandy knoll, and contains a handsome collegiate, and two other churches, a Dominican convent, and two monts-de-pUte. llock-salt is mined in the neighbourhood. Pop. 935. CACERES, a prov. Spain, Estremadura, cap. Caceres, bounded, N. by prov. Salamanca ; E. by Avila, Toledo, and Ciudad Keal ; S. by Badajoz ; and W. by the kingdom of Portugal; area, 10,917 sq. m. It belongs wholly to the basin of the Tagus ; which river, intersecting the prov. E. to W., divides it into two nearly equal portions, both mountain ous, but that to the N. the more rugged of the two. Slate and granite are the prevailing formations ; and silver, copper, iron, and lead, appear to exist, but are much neglected. The mountains yield pine, oak, beech, chestnut, and other useful timbers ; and the extensive and well-watered plains and valleys are naturally fertile, though little attended to by the agriculturist. The inhabitants, comparatively few in number, are chiefly engaged in rearing merino sheep and swine, for which the rich pastures, and the plentiful supply of mast, renders the province well-adapted. Honey and wax are gathered to a considerable extent, though bee-culture is little CACERES 544 CADAMSTOWN pursued, the produce being mainly obtained from wild bees. Manufactures are confined to the principal towns ; and the only trade is in wool and bacon ; much retarded by miserable roads. Education is at a low ebb ; even the schools in the towns being inefficiently conducted. The people are honest, kind-hearted, and, when roused, energetic and persevering. Cortez, and the two Pizarros, were natives of this province. Pop. 264,988. (Madoz.) CACERES. 1, Atn. [anc. Castra-Ccecilia], Spain, Estre- madura, cap. of above prov., 24 m. W. by N. Truxillo, on elevated ground. It is divided into two parts, called the old and the new towns. The old town occupies the top of the hill, and is surrounded by a strong wall, defended by towers, and having five gates. The new town is built round the old, and forms the larger and more important portion of the two. The houses are, in general, tolerably well constructed ; the streets steep, and, with few exceptions, narrow, and ill paved. Its principal square is lined with good houses, shops, and public buildings; and in the centre is a handsome paseo or pro menade. There are seven other squares, but all small. The public edifices are four parish churches, a townhouse, session house, four hospitals, two prisons, a theatre, university, nor mal, and several other schools ; besides which, there are a Jesuits college, of great celebrity; some convents, one of which is now used as a barrack ; an episcopal palace, one be longing to the counts of Torre Mayoralgo ; an alcazar or castle of the ancient rulers of Caceres ; and the largest bull-ring in Spain. Linen, cloth, baize, hats, leather, ropes, soap, earthen ware, wine, and oil, are manufactured ; many of the inhabit ants are also engaged in dyeing, washing wool, tillage, and as herdsmen. Considerable trade is carried on in cattle, pigs, delicious bacon, merino-wool, manufactured goods, &c. An annual cattle-fair is held in April. Pop. 12,051. (Madoz.) 2, Caceres (Nueva), a tn. Philippines, isl. Luzon, cap. of prov. S. Camarines ; lat. 13 40 N. ; Ion. 123 22 23" E. It lies on the river Naga, or Santa Cruz, which flows circuitously N., to the Bay of San Miguel, distant from Caceres about 10 m. It is the seat of the bishop of the province, is regularly built, and the governor s house is elegant. Pop. 12,000. (Mallat.) CACHAO, KE-CHO, or KACHAO, a large city, Anam, cap. Tonquin, r. bank, Song-ca, 90 m. W. the Gulf of Ton- quin, 335 m. N.N.W. Hue; lat. 21 N.; Ion. 105 33 E. The principal streets are broad, and paved with brick or pebbles; in the centre an unpaved passage is left for the elephants and beasts of burden. Most of the houses are of mud or wood ; some of brick and stone ; all are covered with leaves, straw, or reeds. The ancient royal palace was of vast extent, as appears from its ruins. The trade is con siderable; and there were here, formerly, French, Dutch, and English factories. The exports are gold, fine silk stuffs, and lacquered wares, the most beautiful of the E. ; imports: cloths, chintzes, arms, &c. The Song-ca or Tonquin river, was formerly much frequented by European navigators, and was accessible to ships of 500 tons ; but now, the mouth is so much sanded up, that vessels of more than 200 tons cannot enter it. Pop. 100,000. CACHAO, or CACHED, a tn. Portuguese Africa, in Sene- gambia, on the river Cachao or St. Domingo, a few miles above its estuary; lat. 12 13 N.; Ion. 16 17 W. It is a military post, a fortified port, and carries on trade in gold-dust, wax, and ivory. It is the principal Portuguese establish ment in Senegambia, and is under the government of the Cape de Verde Islands. Pop. 500. The EIVER Cachao is one of the mouths of the Jeba or Rio Grande, but receives also, through several small branches, part of the waters of the Casamanza. CACHAR, KATSCHAR [anc. Hairumlfi],a. territory, India beyond the Ganges; bounded, N. by the Brahmapootra and by Assam, E. by Munipoor, S. by Silhet and Tiperah, and W. by the principality of Jynteah, between lat. 24 and 27 N., and Ion. 92 and 94 E.; length, N. to S., 140 m.; breadth, E. to W., 100 m. ; area, about 6564 sq. m. It comprehends two divisions Cachar Proper, and Dharmapoor ; the former occupying the S., and the latter the N. part. The country in general is mountainous, and covered with forest trees, bam boos, and jungle, which afford shelter to great numbers of elephants, buffaloes, wild deer, &c. There is a great want of practicable roads ; but this want is to a considerable degree compensated by the river Barak, which affords good internal communication during the greater part of the year. From June to November large tracts of the country are inundated, rendering it tedious and difficult to pass from one place to another. The mountain-streams are serviceable for floating down timber, ratans, bamboos, &c. During the S. W. monsoon, which begins in February or March, rain is frequent and heavy, causing a rapid and vigorous vegetation. The climate is unhealthy, owing, in a great measure, to the large surface of stagnant water giving rise to the jungle fever, and to ague and dysentery. The soil is extremely fertile; the chief pro ducts are rice and other grain, sugar, and cotton. A con siderable revenue is derived from salt pits, the produce of which not only satisfies the home consumption, but is to some extent exported. The other exports consist of coarse silk, wax, cotton, timber, and iron ore. The inhabitants are robust, of fairer complexion than the Bengalese, and resembling the Chinese in cast of countenance. The original Hairumbian dialect is now nearly extinct ; the language and written char acter of Bengal having taken its place. In 1774, Cachar was invaded by the Burmese army, which, however, was destroyed by the jungle fever; but a second expedition reduced the Rajah to submission, and forced him to become a tributary to the King of Ava. In 1810, the Bur mese placed Marjeet, the Rajah of Munipoor, on the throne, and for five years a civil war for pre-eminence between him and his brothers, Choorjeet and Gumbheer Singh, harassed the province. The latter having been deposed in 1824, a British detachment entered Cachar, and expelled the Burmese, who, by the treaty of Yandaboo, in 1826, gave up all claims in favour of the legitimate Rajah ; but on his death, in 1830, without heirs, it became, in 1832, a constituent part of the British territory. Pop. 70,000. CACHIMAYO, a river, Bolivia, an affluent of the Pil- comayo; its sources are in dist. Chayanta, about 80 m. N.W. Chuquisaca, in lat. 19 S. ; Ion. 67 50 W. ; whence, after making a bend N.E., it flows in a S.S.E. direction, joins the Pilcomayo in lat. 21 10 S.; Ion. 63 50 W. ; total length of course, about 340 m. CACHOEIKA, numerous tns., vils., pars., &c., Brazil : of which the only two important ones are 1, A large com mercial city, prov. of, and 62 m. N.W. Bahia, on the Para- guassu, which divides the city into two unequal parts. The larger is traversed by two small streams, the Talheiro and Pitanga, across which there are bridges, and which propel several sugar-mills. It has a municipal hall and prison, three churches, a convent of bare-foot Carmelites, and an ornamental fountain. The smaller part of the city, called Suo Felix, is on the r. bank of the river, which is here crossed by a bridge. It has two churches, and is inhabited by the poorer classes. Cachoeira is the depot for the products of a considerable tract round about, and the market where the inhabitants purchase general stores, implements, &c. The principal articles of export are coffee and tobacco. This city is much exposed to inundations; one which took place in December 1839, de stroyed a great many of the houses. Pop. 15,000. 2, A small tn., prov. Sao Pedro, 57 m. N.W. Pardo, 1. bank, Jacuy. Its streets are broad, straight, and of an agreeable aspect. It has a church and school, a municipal hall, and prison. The river is navigable for canoes. Cattle-rearing is the principal occu pation. CACONDA (NEW), a tn. Africa, Bcnguela, belonging to the Portuguese possessions, on the Cotape, 170 m. S.E. St. Philip-de-Benguela. It is situated in a hilly district, and used to be regarded as one of the healthiest Portuguese establishments in Guinea. About 50 m. N.W. stands old Caconda on the Caporare. CACONGO, or MALLEMBA, a kingdom, Africa, in Lower Guinea, to the S. of Loango. A small part of it lies along the S. Atlantic, in lat. 5 S., and it extends S.E. as far as the river Bell. It widens considerably towards the interior, but its extent is not well known. The surface is generally flat, and the soil fertile. The interior gradually becomes elevated, and the climate is said to be healthy. The chief town is Kinguele. The other towns of any note are Cacongo, and Mallemba, which is on the coast, and was once a great slave market. CADAMSTOWN, par. Irel. Kildare; 5033 ac. Pop. 1180. CADAQUES 545 CADIZ CADAQUES, a tn. and port, Spain, Catalonia, prov. of, and 30 m. N.E. Gerona, extreme E. of the province. It is tolerably well built, and has a church, townhall, three schools, a prison, and public fountain. Manufactures : brandy, soap, paint, potash, wine, and oil. The trade of the port is unim portant. Pop. 2787. (Madoz.) CADBURY, three pars. Eng. : 1, par. Devon ; 2620 ac. Pop. 251. 2, (North Cadbury] , par. Somerset; 2630 ac. Pop. 254. 3, (South Cadbury}, a small vil. and par. Somerset. In the neighbourhood of the village are the remains of one of the strongest fortifications in England, supposed to be a work of the Romans. Area of par. 800 ac. Pop. 254. C ADDER, or C ALDER, a par. Scotland, co. Lanark, N. of Glasgow ; 14 m. in length, and about 4 in breadth. Within a few yards S. of the mansion-housa of Robroyston, in this parish, stood the house in which the celebrated Scotch patriot, Sir William Wallace, is said to have been betrayed to the English, on September 11, 1303. No vestige of the house now remains. Pop. (1841), 4425. CADDINGTON, par. Eng. Bedford ; 4500 ac. Pop. 1747. CADEBY, par. Eng. Leicester; 2130 ac. Pop. 387. CADELEIGH, par. Eng. Devon; 2020 ac. Pop. 403. CADENET [unc.Cadctietum], atn. France, dep.Vaucluse, 31 m. E.S.E. Avignon, in a fertile district, r. bank, Durance, supposed, from the antiquities found in the vicinity, to have been a Roman station. The baptismal fonts of the parish church are amongst the finest and most ancient of the kind in the kingdom, and the church itself is a remarkable edifice. Cadenet has silk-mills, and some trade in silk. Pop. 2195. CADEREITA, a small tn. Mexico, cap. dist. of same name, prov. or state of, and 74 m. N. the city of Mexico, on a small island formed by the Silla and the Santa Lucia. It is agreeably situated ; well supplied with water from a dis tance, by a fine aqueduct ; has a good parish church, and a Franciscan convent. The district contains silver mines, grows a great deal of wheat, maize, French beans, and pulse, and is famous for rts breed of horses and mules. Pop. 3000. CADER-IDRIS, a mountain, N. Wales, co. Merioneth, about 3 m. S. Dolgelly; highest peak, 2914 ft. above the sea. CADEROUSSE, a tn. France, dep. Vaucluse, 3 m. S.W. Orange, 1. bank, Rhone. It occupies the site of the ancient Vindale, where the Romans had a temple to Jupiter Ammon. It has manufactures of serge, silk-mills, and some trade in silk, grain, wine, &c. Madder is extensively cultivated in the environs. Pop. 1809. CADIAR, a vil. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 45 m. S.E. Granada, at the W. base of the sierra Nevada, 1. bank, Cadiar. The streets are well built, and the town possesses two ? squares, a parish church of Doric jj architecture, endowed school, chapter-house, prison, and ceme tery. The inhabitants are en gaged in agriculture, grinding corn, expressing oil, and distil ling brandy. Pop. 2126. CADIERE (LA),a tn. France, dep. Var, 10 m. N.W. Toulon ; once a place of great strength, being encircled by three walls, and defended by a large castle flanked with towers, but its for tifications were demolished at the commencement of the 18th cen tury. It has some trade in olive- oil, walnuts, figs, and capers, the last two of excellent quality. Pop. 1240. CADILLAC, a tn. France, dep. Gironde, 18 m. S.E. Bor deaux, in a fertile plain, r. bank, Garonne. It is remark able chiefly for the old castle of the Dukes of Epernon, which was long regarded as second only to the royal palaces, and is now used as a female penitentiary. There is here a large prison, in which from 200 to 300 prisoners are usually de tained. The chief manufactures are wine-casks and agricul tural implements. The trade is considerable, Cadillac being the entrepot for the produce, and particularly for the wines of the district. Pop. 1164. Vol.. I. CADIZ, a prov. Spain, Andalusia, one of the three pro vinces into which the ancient kingdom of Seville has been divided. It lies between lat. 36 2 and 37 N. ; and Ion. 4 7 and 6 22 W.; area, 3905 sq. in.; bounded, N. by provs. Huelva and Seville, E. by Malaga, S. and W. by the Strait of Gibraltar and the Atlantic. The mountains of Ronda traverse a part of it in the E., and ramify in different directions towards the sea. The principal rivers which water and fertilize the province are the Guadalete and the Guadiaro, and their affluents. Both these streams rise N. of Ronda, the former falling into the Atlantic in the Bay of Cadiz, and the latter into the Mediterranean N. of Gibraltar. Timber of various kinds, lime, sulphur, building-stone, and grind stones are obtained from the hilly districts, which also depas ture numerous herds of cattle, flocks of sheep, and some horses. The warm and fertile, and in many places well-cul tivated valleys, yield the usual cereal crops and legumes, olives, fruits of different descriptions, and excellent grapes, from which are made the famed sherry wines of commerce. Formerly the breeding of horses constituted the principal riches of the province, but this branch of business, as well as commerce generally, has greatly fallen off; the latter being limited chiefly to the wines of Jerez and Rota, with legumes, a small quantity of oil, spirits, and home-manufactured goods, chiefly woollens, and salt. Besides those employed in agri culture, a small portion of the inhabitants are engaged in various manufactures, which are carried on to a limited ex tent ; and others of them are engaged in fishing tunnies and sardines, and in preparing salt, which is of good colour and quality. Education is much neglected, only about 20 in 100 being able to read and write; but as to crime, Cadi? contrasts favourably with many of the other provinces of Spain. There are many traces in this province of the Pheni- cian colonists; and here, in 711, King Rodrigo lost his life and throne in a battle, the loss of which opened the ports of the country to the Arabs. Off Cape Trafalgar, also in this province, Nelson gained his famous victory over the combined French and Spanish fleets. Pop. 358,44tj. CADIZ [anc. Gades], a city and seaport, Spain, cap. of above prov., in the Isle of Leon, off the S.W. coast of Anda lusia; lat. (observatory) 36 32 N.; Ion. 6 17 15" W. (E.) ; 60 m. N.W. Gibraltar, and 64 S. Seville. It stands on a narrow tongue of land which projects about 5 m. N.N.W. from the isle ; it is surrounded on three sides by water, and is strongly defended both by nature and art. The entrance to its capacious bay is completely commanded by the forts St. Sebastian, Santa Catalan, and Matagorda ; while ou tho other sides, the beach is so precipitous, or so surrounded by sandbanks and sunken reefs, that large vessels cannot ap proach within three -fourths of a mile of the city. Hence a hostile attack by sea may be regarded as almost hopelees. On the land side the only access is along a belt of land, in some places not more than 200 yards wide, and bristling with cannon. The city itself, which is nearly in the form of a square 1 m. each way, is surrounded by walls of great height and thickness, flanked with towers and bastions, and is entered CADIZ 546 CADORE byfivegates. It is divided into the four quarters of Santa Cruz, lomeo; several superior schools, also in connection with the Kosario, San Antonio, and San Lorenzo, and is built with so much regularity and uniformity, that a stranger, from want of distinguishing features, is very apt to lose his way. The houses are solidly built of freestone, and are generally of three, sometimes of four stories. They have flat roofs, with gutters to carry away, or rather to collect the water in reservoirs prepared for it, as water is scarce, and the inhabitants depend on the rain for their principal supply. The houses in general have handsome fronts, are well arranged internally, and are often surmounted by lofry towers, open to the sea breeze, and commanding line views of the bay. The streets are somewhat narrow, but are remarkably well paved, and are uniformly above university; and a school or academy of the fine arts. Besides the Alameda, which is well planted, though not laid out with much taste, the ramparts afford agreeable promenades, commanding a beautiful prospect of the bay and country be yond, and are much frequented in the evenings by the inhab itants, who repair thither to enjoy the luxury of the cool sea breeze. But the absence of trees, to the growth of which the sea air is unfavourable, is greatly felt. The bay, which is formed by the peninsula and the mainland, is spacious, and affords good anchorage. It is divided into the outer and inner bays. The former is exposed to a heavy and dangerous sea during the prevalence of N. W. winds ; the inner is protected provided with foot-pavement. The finest streets are the Ancha by an extensive mole, but is accessible to small vessels only. The larger ships are obliged to anchor at a distance of three-quarters of a mile from the shore, where there is from 5 to 7 fathoms water. Opposite to Cadiz is the town of Santa Maria, the prin cipal depot of the wines of Xeres. La caracca. or the royal dockyard, is situated at the bottom of the inner bay, about 6 m. from the city, and is de fended by the cross-fire of two forts. It contains three spacious basins, and 12 docks or slips ; but the whole establish ment is now going to decay. The trade of Cadiz is greatly less than it was at one time. The principal part of what remains is with England, and the chief article exported is sherry wine. This state of matters is attri buted to the want of a commercial treaty with England, and to the enormous pro hibitory duties on imports, which have given rise to an extensive system of , ni . smuggling, subjecting the Government to a great expense in maintaining the preventive service, while it derives no benefit from the im portation of articles of foreign manufacture. The following Table exhibits the number, tonnage, and value of cargoes of vessels which entered and cleared at the Port of Cadiz, in the years 1841 to 1846: - ^ , v- [spacious], and San Raphael. The public squares are few, and some of them so small as scarcely to deserve the name. The finest not so much from its extent, as the elegance of its buildings is San Antonio, nearly a perfect square, and the great place of resort in mild wintry days, and moderate evenings in spring. It is considerably surpassed in extent by the Plaza de Abastos, or, as it has been named, Plaza cle la Libertad, which was only commenced in 1837. The Plaza de San Juan de Dios, now called Plaza de Isabella II., is of considerable extent, but irregular in its shape. It contains several handsome buildings, particularly the consistory, now chiefly used for municipal and public purposes. Its front, towards the square, consists of a portico, above which rises a row of Ionic columns as high as the roof, which is surmounted by a tower, in three divisions the first square, surrounded by a marble balustrade, the second octagonal, and the third circular, supporting a cupola. One of the most conspicuous objects in Cadiz is the lighthouse of San Sebastian, 172 ft. above the ground, and visible 20 m. oft at sea. The other principal edifices are the old cathedral, now used merely as the parish church of Santa Cruz, and though of small size, one of the most regular buildings in Cadiz; the new cathedral, still unfinished, of larger dimensions than the, other, though small for a cathedral, built wholly of white marble, except the bases of the pillars, which are variegated, and surmounted by a dome, the interior of which is of great beauty; three other churches, several nunneries and convents, particularly the convent of the Capuchins, which is said to possess two of Murillo s finest pictures ; and two theatres, one capable of containing 1400 persons. Among benevolent establishments are the Casa de Misericordia, a magnificent edifice, and a well-arranged and richly- endowed establishment, used partly as an ordinary hospital and alms-house, and partly as a lunatic asylum ; the female hospital, next in importance to the Casa ; the foundling hospital, and the hospital of San Juan de Dios, or general infirmary, which annually receives about 700 patients ; and the house of refuge of San Servando and San German, where destitute, children or young criminals are instructed and reclaimed. The principal educational establishments are the Cadiz medical school, in connection with the university of Seville; the seminary of San liarto- 1841.. m*.. 1843.. 1814. 1815 . 1846.. ...106,58:5.. ...120,020.. ...120,485.. ..155,749 ...134,363 . .. IKM9.V. of car *r OPS. ..506,GU .. 575,851 .. 525,872 .. 654,469 .. 562,786 Cleared. Vessel*. Tons. 558 101,056.... 585 109,270.... 556 107,562.... 705 143,149.... 681 mr,;!.V... 590 124,766.... Vulue of cargo*,,. 1,124,393 952,914 1,018,842 1.303,564 1,121,807 . 973 416 In the year 1847, the total exports of wine were 31,602 butts, being a decrease, as compared with 1846, of 1094 butts. Salt is another chief article of export. Of this commodity considerable quantities are exported from Cadiz, in British vessels, to the Newfoundland fishery, and also to the river Plata, and the Brazils ; and large quantities are also shipped on board Russian, Swedish, and Norwegian vessels. The chief imports are staves and tobacco, from America ; hides, cocoa, indigo, cochineal, dyewoods, sugar, and other colonial produce, from Cuba, Puerto Rico, the Philippine Islands, Mexico, and Columbia ; cod-fish from Newfoundland, and coals from England. Cadiz has been often besieged. It was taken in 1596 by Lord Essex, and again attacked by the English in 1628. In 1656 it was blockaded by Blake, who captured two rich galleons, and sunk eight others Another English expedition was undertaken against it in 1702, but failed. In 1809 the Cortes took refuge here ; on that occasion the town was blockaded by the French till 1812. In 1823 it surrendered to the French under the Due d Angouleme. Pop. 53,920. (Murray s Handbook of Spain; Willkomm s Zwei Jahre in Spanien; Madoz, Diccio de Espana.} CADNEY, par. Eng. Lincoln; 5100 ac. Pop. 438. CADORE, or PIEVE-DI-CADORE, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, 22 m. N.N.E. Belluno, r. bank, Piave, among high mountains. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in agriculture, cattle-rearing, and mining. It has some trade in wood and iron. In the vicinity, in 1797, the Austrians do- CADOXTON 547 CAEKLEON feated the French ; but the place derives its chief interest from being the birthplace of Titian, who was born here in 1477. Pop. 1600. CADOXTON, two pars. Wales, Glamorgan : 1, 32,000 ac. Pop. 5794. 2, (Juxta Barry), 900 ac. Pop. 242. CAEN [anc. Cadomus, Cadetum], a tn. France, cap. dep. Calvados (Normandy), 123 m. N.W. Paris, ina valley, between two extensive meadows, at the confluence of the Orne with the Odon, and 10 m. from the embouchure of the former ; lat. 49 1 1 12" N. ; Ion. 2 1 W. (R.) The streets are broad, regular, and clean ; two of them cross each other at right angles, and extend nearly to the extremities of the town, which is also traversed by a canal supplied by the Odon, and employed to drive the machinery of numerous manufactories. The houses are generally well built, of an excellent freestone which is extensively quarried in the vicinity, and imported into England under the name of Caen-stone. There are four squares, the principal of which, the Place Eoyal, is ornamented with a statue of Louis XIV. The public walks are beautiful, especially the cours, a splendid avenue about a mile in length, 1 ined with elm-trees. Some fine promenades also extend along the banks of the new canal. It has numerous fine churches and other buildings, of which the following may be noticed : the cathedral of St. Etienne, one of the finest in Normandy ; the monastic buildings of the Abbaye mix hommes, a large plain edifice, now occupied as the royal college, and contain ing the tomb of William the Conqueror ; the church of the Trinity, in the Norman style ; the Abbaye aux Dames, founded by Matilda, wife of William the Conqueror, and converted into an hospital in 1823; the church of St. Nicholas, now con- ^ CAEN. APSIS OF THE CHURCH OF ST. PIF.KRK, So. From France Monumcntale et Pittoresque. verted into a shot-manufactory, and perhaps the only one in Normandy which presents the French style of the 1 1 th century in all its purity ; no mixture of ornament, and no modern addi tions having defaced the original. One of the finest churches in Caen is that of St. Pierre, whose tower, terminated by a spire, is exceedingly elegant, and, as well as part of the nave, and the three porches, was built in 1308. The great porch, finished in 1384, is irregular, but picturesque ; and the apsis is justly regarded as a work of the greatest taste and elegance, and as one of the most curious and the happiest efforts of the revival of the arts in France. Five centuries have not in the smallest injured this beautiful specimen of architecture. Other buildings and institutions arc the hotel of the prefec ture, a handsome building in the Italian style ; the Palais de Justice, the remains of the castle built by William the Con queror ; the Hotel-Dieu ; the Hotel-Valois, where the exchange and chamber of commerce are held ; the public library, with 47,000 volumes; museum, cabinet of natural history, botan ical garden, with 3000 species of plants ; custom-house, house of correction, &c. Caen is the seat of the royal court for the departments of Calvados, la Manche, and 1 Orne ; and has a court of first resort, and of commerce, an academy of arts and sciences, and an academic universitarie (the representa tive of the university founded by Henry VI. of England, in 1431, and re-modelled at the Revolution), a secondary school of medicine, school of hydrography, societies of medicine, agriculture, and commerce ; deaf and dumb institution, normal school, school of design, and numerous other institutions for the promotion of the arts, sciences, and literature. Indeed, the advantages possessed by Caen, in respect of education, &c., have induced many English families to take up their residence in it. The manufactures of Caen are considerable, and consist of hats, lace, cloth, flannels, linen, cotton goods, druggets, Angora and thread gloves, straw hats, shot, porcelain, earthenware, paper-hangings, cutlery, oils, &c. ; there are also some cotton mills, dyeworks, breweries, tanneries, and establishments for bleaching wax ; some shipbuilding is also carried on. From time immemorial, the town has been celebrated for its manu facture of Angora and woollen gloves, with which it supplies most of the country districts of France. In this manufacture, indeed, Caen has no rival ; and immense numbers of Angora rabbits are reared in the neighbourhood, for the purpose of being plucked, which operation they undergo once a year. The fur thus obtained is used without dye, and the gloves are cither gray or white. There is a considerable trade in grain, wine, brandy, cider, clover seed, hemp, cattle, horses of good quality, poultry, butter, fish, salt provisions, iron, steel, hard ware, grindstones, freestone, and paving stones. Six fairs are held annually, and are well attended. The port formed by the river is of little importance, on account of the dangers attending the entrance to the Orne, obstructed as it is by sandbanks. At high water, however, vessels of 150 or 200 tons can reach the town. Nothing cer tain is known of the origin of Caen. In 912, when Neustria was ceded to the Normans, it was a place of importance, and increased rapidly under the Norman Dukes. William the Conqueror, and his wife Matilda, adorned it with many edifices. It became the capital of Lower Normandy a distinction which more than once exposed it to the miseries of war. In 1346, it was taken and pillaged by Edward III. of England. It was again taken by the English in 1417, and wrested from them in 1450 by Dunois, who captured the Duke of Somerset and 4000 troops, who had retreated to the castle. Malherbe, com monly regarded as the father of French poetry, Huet, the celebrated bishop of Avranches, and Auber, the composer, were born in Caen. Pop. 38,267. CAENBY, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 1760 ac. Pop. 185. CAERHUN, par., N. Wales, Caernarvon. Pop. 1257. CAERLAVEKOCK, a par. Scotland, co. Dumfries, about 6 m. in length, and nowhere exceeding 2 in breadth. It con tains the ancient castle of Caerlaverock, a magnificent ruin, celebrated in history, and famous for its warlike associations, and for the many deeds of violence and bloodshed it has wit nessed. Pop. 1297. CAERLEON, an anc. tn. England, co. of, and 18 m. S.W. Monmouth, on a gentle eminence, r. bank, Usk, which is here crossed by a handsome stone bridge. It consists prin cipally of two ill-paved streets, houses irregularly built, old and dilapidated ; and has a chapel of ease, and chapels for Baptists, Independents, and Wesleyan Methodists; a free school, and an alms-house for aged widows. In the neigh bourhood are extensive iron and tin works. Caerleon was CAERMARTHEN 548 CAGAYAN at one time the metropolis of Wales, and a place of great wealth and importance, being reckoned the third city in Bri tain ; it is now rapidly hastening to decay, and presents but few traces of its ancient grandeur. It was also a principal and permanent Roman station, as many interesting remains sufficiently prove. These consist of a part of a wall by which the town was surrounded, and the site of an amphitheatre ; fragments of Koman armour, stone coffins, coins, and rings, have also been found. Pop. 1174. CAERMARTHEN, or CARMARTHEN, a maritime co., S. "\Vales, and the largest of all the Welsh counties, having Cardigan on the N., the Bristol Channel and part of Glamor gan on the S., Pembroke on the W., and Brecknock on the E.; extreme length, 53 in.; breadth, 35; area, 634,360 ac. It is of a mountainous character generally, but not so rugged as some of the other Welsh counties, neither are the moun tains so high. Some of the vales are beautiful and extensive, particularly that of Towy, which is 30 miles in length. The principal river is theTywi or Towy, which rises in Cardigan shire. This river and the Tave are the only navigable streams in the county. A large part of the county is waste ; but the valleys are fertile, and numerous herds of small black cattle are reared on the hills. Agriculture, however, is extremely backward, and drainage altogether neglected. The mineral products of the county are iron, lead, coal, and limestone. There are no manufactures of any consequence. The county returns two members to the House of Commons; constituency (1850), 4969. Pop. 110,632. CAERMARTHEN, or CARMARTHEN [Welsh, CaerFnjd- dyri], a tn., S. Wales, cap. of above co., 9 m. from Caerniarthen Bay, Bristol Channel, and 14 m. N.W. Llanelly, on a moderate eminence, r. bank, Towy ; over which there is a spacious bridge of seven arches. It has nine principal streets, toler ably straight, well paved, and lighted with gas ; houses well built, some of stone, and some of brick. The principal build ings are the county-hall; St. Peter s Church, an ancient edifice, containing numerous antique and curious monuments ; St. David s Church, a plain substantial structure, a monument to Sir Thomas Picton, and a well-executed statue of General Nott, a native of the place. Besides the two Established churches, there are two Independent chapels, two Baptist, two Wesleyan, one Unitarian, and two Calvinistic Methodist. Of public and private schools, about 20 in number, the most prominent are the S. Wales training college, Sir Thomas Powell s free grammar-school, Queen Elizabeth s grammar- school, &c. There are also two infirmaries, and a literary and scientific institution. The shipping of the port is con siderable, and it has recently declared an independent customs station. Tin-plate and iron works are carried on to some extent, but the bulk of the inhabitants are employed in such handicraft occupations as are likely to be most in request in an agricultural district. With Llanelly, it returns a member to the House of Commons; constituency (1850), 718. Pop. 9526. (Local Correspondent] CAERNARVON, or CARNARVON, a maritime co., N. Wales, having Caernarvon Bay, W. ; and co. Denbigh, E. ; the island of Anglesey, and the Irish Sea, N.; and Cardigan Bay, S. Its extreme length, S.W. to N.E., is about 52 m.; extreme breadth, 20 m., although the greater portion of it does not exceed 7 or 8 m. on an average ; area, 348,160 ac. This county is traversed throughout its whole length by lofty mountains, including the Snowdon range, whose highest peak is 3557 ft. above the sea. There are other summits varying from 1500 ft. to between 3000 and 4000 ft. Although, however, the most mountainous county in Wales, there are many tracts of low and fertile land, some of it affording rich pasturage, and other parts bearing large crops of barley and oats. Dairy farming, and cattle, horse, and sheep breeding, are, however, the prin cipal occupations of the farmer. The cattle and sheep are of a small breed. Lead and copper ores have been found in the mountainous districts, and some attempts have been made to work them, but with little success. It has been otherwise with the slate quarries in the neighbourhood of Bangor, which have been extensively and profitably worked. Large quanti ties of this slate, which is of the finest quality, are exported. Agriculture, though not BO far behind as in some of the other counties of Wales, is still in an extremely backward state. Farm buildings and cottages are generally in a bad condition, and the implements employed rude and inefficient. It sends one member to the House of Commons; constituency (1850), 1983. Pop. 87,870. CAERNARVON, or CARNARVON, a seaport tn. and par!, bor., N. Wales, S.E. side of Menai Strait, and cap. of above co., 209 m. N.W. London. The ancient walls thrown around it by Edward I., and flanked by round towers, are still pretty entire. Within there are ten narrow, but regular streets ; outside, many new and handsome houses have been built of late years, and some spacious streets formed. The town is well lighted with gas, and is abundantly supplied with water. The magnificent castle or palace of Edward I., and in which Edward II. was born, stands at the W. end of the town, and is still externally entire, though much dilapidated nside. Including its court-yards, &c., it is about 1 m. in circumference. On the N. and W. the sea dashes against the rock on which it stands, adding an appropriate feature to the imposing fortress. The parish church is half a mile from Caernarvon, but there is a commodious chapel of ease in the town, with four dissenting chapels, and several schools. A lumber of wealthy families reside in the neighbourhood, and the town is much frequented in the season by sea-bathers. A beautiful promenade stretches along the Meuai, which is much frequented, particularly in the summer evenings. Caernarvon has no manufactures, but its shipping trade is considerable ; the port admitting vessels of 400 tons. The principal exports are slate and copper ore ; the imports, co lonial produce, Manchester and Birmingham goods, &c. The coasting trade is chiefly confined to Liverpool, Bristol, and Dublin, although occasionally extending to Glasgow, Cork, and Waterford ; constituency (1850), 861. Pop. of bor. 8001. CAERPHILLY, a market tn., S. Wales, co. Glamorgan, agreeably situate 6| m. N. by W. Cardiff. It is embosomed among hills, and the scenery in the neighbourhood is pictur esque and grand. The houses are neatly but irregularly built. An ancient castle, contiguous to the town, was one of the most magnificent structures in the kingdom. It has a chapel con nected with the Established church, and places of worship for Baptists, Wesleyans, and Calvinistic Methodists, and an en dowed school for girls. Caerphilly, which appears formerly to have been a place of considerable extent, had been gradually declining till the beginning of the present century, when it began to increase and prosper. The manufacture of woollen cloths, checks, and linsey-woolsey is carried on. Weekly market, Thursday, well supplied with corn and all kinds of provisions ; six fairs are held annually for corn, cattle, cheese, and other articles. Pop. 634. CAERWENT, par. Enp. Monmou h ; 1900 ac. Pop. 446. CAERWYS, par. Wales, Flint; 1600 ac. Pop. 987. C^ESAREA, KAISARIAH, or CAESAKEA PALESTINA, a small haven, Asiatic Turkey, Palestine ; lat. 32 23 N.; Ion. 34 44 E.; 55 m. N.N.W. Jerusalem. It was once a place of considerable note, but is now a mass of shapeless ruins, encompassed by a low wall of gray stone, and tenanted only by jackals, snakes, lizards, scorpions, &c. A great extent of ground is covered by the remains of the city, the most con spicuous ruin being that of an old castle, at the end of the ancient mole. Water being good and abundant, coasting vessels often put in here. The ancient city was founded by Herod the Great, B.C. 22; he then raised some magnificent edifices, and caused a semicircular mole to be constructed for its port, which is said to have been one of the most stupen dous works of antiquity, and has been compared, as to design and execution, to the breakwater at Plymouth. Caesarea is the scene of several interesting events mentioned in Scripture. Eusebius, the early church historian, probably a native, was also some time bishop of Caesarea. In A.n. 635, the Saracens captured it, and retained the place till 1101, when it was taken by the Crusaders ; after the latter left, it soon fell into decay. 2, Ccesarea PhiUppi, the same as BAMAB, which see. CAFFA. See KAFFA. CAFFARELLI ISLANDS, N.W. coast, Australia, Buc caneer Archipelago, at the entrance of King s Sound ; lat. 16 3 S. ; Ion. 123 16 E. CAFFRAR1A. See KAFFRARIA. CAFFRISTAN. 8ee KAFIRISTAN. CAGAYAN, a prov., isl. Luzon, the largest of the rhilijv pines, occupying its S. extremity. It is mountainous, and contains numerous extensive primitive forests. Cultivation is carried on to some extent, but the scantiness of its popula- CAGAYAN SOOLOO 549 CAHETE tion prevents a full development of its capabilities. Its prin cipal vegetable production is tobacco, which is exported in considerable quantities. Cattle and timber, the latter com prising a valuable species of ebony, are the next chief articles of export. Gold, iron, and a red ochre are found in the pro vince, the last in great abundance. The mountains are in habited by numerous and various animals, particularly buf faloes, stags, boars, cattle, and horses. The rivers teem with fish, which form a large portion of the subsistence of the natives. The climate of Cagayan is rendered very unhealthy by dense and tangled forests ; but the practice of cutting down the trees in the vicinity of the villages and towns, has con siderably improved the salubrity of these localities. The inhabitants are generally honest and well disposed, and theft is unknown. The province comprises 21 towns and villages, which contain, together, 58,580 inhabitants. (Mallat.) CAGAYAN SOOLOO, three islands, Sooloo Sea ; lat. 6 58 6" N.; Ion. 118 28 E. (R.) ; one of which is large, high, and well wooded, and may be discerned at a distance of 23 or 24 m. CAGAYANES ISLANDS, three islands, one large and two small, in the Sooloo Sea. The larger is of considerable size, very high, aud covered with trees, and apparently of volcanic origin. The small islands are situated 5 m. S. of the former ; they are of moderate elevation, and are also well clothed with timber. The large island is surrounded by a reef. Its centre is in lat. 9 35 N.; Ion. 121 23 E. (R.) CAGGIANO, a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Citra, 12 m. N.N.W. La Sala, on a mountain. It has three churches and an hospital. Pop. 4429. CAGLI [anc. Callis],a tn. Papal States, at the confluence of the Cantiano and Basso, foot of Mount Petraro, 13 m. S. Urbino. It has a cathedral, four monasteries, four nunneries, and is the seat of the bishopric of Cagli and Pergola. Pop. 3000. CAGLI ARI (CAPO DI, or DIVISIONS DI), one of the two military divisions of Sardinia, comprising the S. half of the island. It is divided into the six provinces of Cagliari, In- glesias, Isili, Lanusei, Nuoro, and Busachi. The sea-coast from Tortoli on the E. side, to Oristano on the W. side, is flat, with a rich and productive soil, but, from June to De cember, the air is infested by vapours from the numerous marshes and lagoons. The interior, on the contrary, is moun tainous, with a pure and healthy atmosphere ; and snow lies in the higher districts for a considerable portion of the year. CAGLIARI (GULF OF), a gulf, S. end of isl. Sardinia, extending from Pula on the W., to Cape Carbonara on the E., nearly 30 m. across. The entrance is easy, and there is an excellent roadstead, with good anchorage, after getting into soundings. CAGLIARI [anc. Calaris], a maritime city, Sardinian States, cap. isl. Sardinia, and of the division of Capo-di- Cagliari, situated on a slope on the gulf of same name, S. shore of the island, and backed by exceedingly jagged mountains ; lat. (St. Pancras Church) 39 13 12" N. ; Ion. 9 7 45" E. (R.) It is surrounded by a single wall, defended by some bastions, and a broad but shallow ditch, neither of which are in a state of efficiency. The streets in general are broad, but the houses are very poorly built. The original part of the town, now called the castle, occupies the summit of a hill about 400 ft. above the beach. This portion was built, and regularly for tified, by the Pisans, and a citadel has been added to it by the Piedmontese Government. The Viceroy and principal authorities inhabit this quarter, which contains the cathedral, also built by the Pisans, and partly faced with marble ; the vice-regal palace, the university, three square towers called St. Pancras, the Elephant, and the Eagle, the mausoleum of Martin, King of Sicily, and the residences of the nobility. The next quarter is the Marina, extending from the middle of the castle hill to the sea shore. The Marina is the com mercial quarter of the town, and contains a bonded ware house, an arsenal, and a lazaretto. Here also is the mole. Another quarter, called Stampase, extends W. from the castle, and contains the corn market, and storehouses for grain. The quarter of Villanova extends E., and is the poorest part of the town. Cagliari has a suburb nearly a mile long, called St. Avandino. Besides the cathedral, the town contains 38 churches, 21 convents, a seminary, a university, founded 1626, and re-established in 1764, with faculties of theology, law, medicine, and philosophy, attended by between 200 and 300 students ; an agricultural society, a college for nobles, a school of medicine and surgery, a mathematical school, a museum of antiquities, a cabinet of natural history, a library of 18,000 volumes, a mint, a theatre, and several hospitals and other beneficent institutions. The town is badly supplied with water, although an ancient aqueduct remains, which could be restored at a moderate expense. It is reputed healthy, not withstanding the proximity of the extensive marsh of the same name to the W., and the frequency of droughts. Cagliari is the seat of government for the island, and of the high court of appeal for both civil and criminal cases, of an admiralty court, court of first resort, tribunal of commerce, and fiscal court. It is also the residence of an archbishop, who takes the title of Primate of Sardinia. Consuls from most of the European states reside here, this being the port through which most of the foreign trade of the island is done. The manufactures of the town are of little im portance. They include cotton, soap, gunpowder, arms, leather, and jewellery. There is also a royal tobacco manu factory. The salt marshes in the neighbourhood afford large quantities of salt, which forms a principal article of trade. The port is one of the best in the Mediterranean, and the road stead has good anchorage ground. Grain, vegetables, salt, oil, wine, cheese, flax, hides, saffron, and rags are exported. VKSSELS ENTERED and CLEARED at (fie PORT OF CAGLIADI, from 1842 to 1846. Entered. Cleared. Vessels. Tons. Vessels. Tons. ....484 65,854 482 55,603 ...372 44,287 372 44,147 ...460 55,755 460 55,755 ...365 39,888 359 4U.030 1842., 1843.. 1844.. 1846.. The ancient Calaris is supposed to have been founded by the Carthaginians. During the Middle Ages, the Pisans built the castle, with its three square towers. The King of Sar dinia resided here from 1798 to 1814, during which period the French had possession of his continental dominions. Pop. (1845), 30,063. CAGNANO, twotns. Naples: 1, In prov. Abruzzo Ultra, 5 m. N.W. Aquila. Pop. 5187. 2, In prov. Capitanata, 18 m. N.W. San Sevevo. Pop. 4590. CAGNES, a tn. France, dep. Var, on a hill near the coast of the Mediterranean, about 10 m. E. Grasse. Good red wine is grown in the neighbourhood, and forms almost the only article of trade. Pop. 2036. CAGSANA, a tn., isl. Luzon, one of the Philippines, prov. Albay, near the S. extremity of the island, the second largest town in the province. Pop. 12,755. CAGUA, a tn. Venezuela, prov. Caracas, 1. bank, Araguay, and a little E. of Lake Tacarigua, about 50 m. S.W. the town of Caracas ; lat. 10 18 N. ; Ion. 67 38 W. Pop. 5200. CAGUAN, a tn. New Granada, near the sources of a river of same name, in the Llanos of Caguan ; lat. 2 50 N. ; Ion. 74 30 W. It has a church containing an image of San Roque, which is held particularly sacred, and to which numer ous pilgrimages are made. The climate here is warm, and the country around productive in maize, plantains, sugar cane, &c. Gold is also obtained. The river Caguan falls into the Caqueta or Japura, in lat. 17 N. ; Ion. 73 25 W. CAHAWBA, a river, U. States, Alabama. It rises in the N. part of that state, whence it flows S. to the town of Cahawba, where it unites with the Coosa river, and forms the Alabama. CAHER, two pars. Irel.: 1, par. Kerry; 19,100 ac. Pop. 6135. 2, par. Tipperary; 13,647 ac. Pop. 8801. CAHERAGH, par. Irel. Cork; 23,517 ac. Pop. 8375. CAHERAVALLY, par. Irel. Limerick; 3833 ac. P.1717. CAHERCORNY, par. Irel. Limerick; 1546 ac. P. 522. CAHERDUGGAN, par. Irel. Cork; 6131 ac. Pop. 1626. CAHERELLY, par. Irel. Limerick; 2719 ac. Pop. 1329. CAHERLAG, par. Irel. Cork; 3557 ac. Pop. 1767. CAHERNARRY, par. Irel. Limerick; 2478 ac. P. 1388. CAHETE, or VILLA DA RAIXHA [New Queen s town], an old tn. Brazil, prov. Minas Geraes, 15 m. S.E. Sahara; lat. 19 50 S. ; Ion. 45 10 W. Its streets are broad and straight, and its houses in general well built, though partly of earth. It possesses a fine parish church and two plainer churches, an hospital, and a primary school. Agriculture, cattle-rearing, and mining, are the chief occupations. Pop. 6000. CAHIR 550 CAIRO CAIIIR, or CAHER, an inland tn. Ireland, co. Tipperary, on the Suir, about 9 m. W. by N. Clonmel. It is well built, and exceedingly neat and clean ; its general appearance being greatly improved by the Suir, here a clear and beautiful stream, passing through it. The public buildings are all handsome, and, being placed, most of them, in conspicuous situations, have a very fine effect. They include a market- house, bridewell, fever hospital, dispensary, and several schools. About 1 m. from the town is a barrack, capable of accom modating a regiment of cavalry, and which, being generally occupied, adds much to the gaiety and bustle of the place. The old picturesque castle of Cahir, an object of considerable interest, occupies the summit of a rock, which rises over the left bank of the river. A considerable trade is done here in corn, and its various fairs and markets are well attended. ! The mansion of the Earl of Glengall is in the town, its beautiful and finely-wooded domains embracing both sides of the Suir. Pop. 3668. CAHIRC1VEEN, a to. Ireland, co. Kerry, 1. bank, Cahir, 29 m. W. by S. Killarney, at the foot of a hill, consisting of one main street, with two others at right angles. It has an Estab lished church, and R. Catholic chapel, a Protestant parochial school, and one connected with the National Board of Educa tion, a fever hospital, and dispensary. Charran House, now in ruins, the birthplace of the late Daniel O Connell, is about 1 m. from the town. Pop. 1492. CAHIRCONLISH, a par. and tn. Ireland, co. Limerick. The town, which is 7 m. S.E. Limerick, has a parish church, dispensary, and a school. Pop. of tn. 562. Area of par. j 8173 ac.; pop. 3925. CAHLORE, a small principality in N. Hindoostan, on both banks of the Sutlej ; the cap. of which, Belaspoor, is in lat. 31 19 N.; Ion. 76 47 E. CAHORS [anc. Cadurcum], a tn. France, cap. dop. Lot, 60 m. N. Toulouse, r. bank, Lot; lat. 44 25 59" N.; Ion. 1 27 25" E. (c.) It stands on a slope, almost surrounded by the river, and is divided into the upper and lower town. Some old ramparts defend the isthmus on the land side. Most of the streets are narrow, crooked, and steep; some improve ments, however, have recently been made, by the formation of several new streets and quays. There are three bridges across the Lot, one of which, believed to have been built in the 13th century, has a square tower at each end, and one in the centre. The cathedral is a spacious edifice, built appar ently at different periods. The most ancient portion has been attributed to the Romans ; and the cupola above the choir is referred to the beginning of the seventh century. The hotel of the prefecture, formerly the episcopal palace, is a fine structure, forming the principal ornament of the square in which it stands. Among the other public buildings are the ancient seminary, now converted into barracks ; the ancient charter-house, occupying the site of one of the houses of the Knights Templars; the fine cloister of the cathedral, the theatre, public library containing 12,000 volumes; the obelisk to the memory of Fenelon, &c. The town is the seat of a bishopric, tribunals of commerce and of first resort, a royal college, with about 300 pupils ; and a primary normal school for the department. The university, founded by the Pope in 1321, was united to that of Toulouse in 1751. The cele brated jurist, Cajas, was a professor, and Fenelon a student here. Manufactures inconsiderable, being limited to some woollen goods, nut and seed oil, and paper. A good trade, however, is carried on in the red wine of the neighbourhood, called vin noir, on account of its dark colour. Brandy is also distilled here ; and coal is wrought in the vicinity. Cahors is supposed to have been the capital of the Cadurci before the conquest of Gaul by Caesar. It was afterwards the Divona of the Romans, who adorned it with a theatre, temple, and forum. The Roman roads, of which vestiges remain, have been attributed to Agrippa. The aqueduct, in tended to convey water from the valley of St. Martin de Vern, was about 15 m. in length. Clement Marot, the well-known French poet, contemporary of Francis I., was born here. I op. 10,594. CAICOS, CAYOS, or THE KEYS, one of the island groups comprehended under the general name of Bahamas, consist ing of six islands, besides some uninhabited rocks; between lat. 21 and 22 N., and Ion. 71 and 73 W. The largest of them, called the Great Key, is about 30 m. long. When seen from the E., they appear like low rocks ; they consist of corals or madrepores, which are covered with a thin layer of sand, intermixed with shells ; are fertile, and produce cotton, grain, &c. CA1LAS, or KAILAS MOUNTAINS, a range of mountains in Tibet, Central Asia, situated in about lat. 31 N. ; and stretching N.W. and S.E., almost parallel to the Himalayas. Nothing is known of either its E. or W. limit. Some of its peaks attain a great elevation ; that called Kailas Peak reaching the height of 2 1 ,000 ft. The sources of some of the largest rivers in India, the Brahmapootra, Sutlej, and Indus, are in the vicinity of these mountains. CAINHAM, par. Eng. Salop; 3040 ac. Pop. 973. CAINO, a com. and vil. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 9 m. N.N.E. Brescia, in a pleasant valley traversed by the Garza, which here furnishes water power to several paper and spinning mills. Pop. 781. CA1PHA, a tn. Syria. See, KAIFFA. CAIRA, or CAIKAW, par. Wales, Glamorgan. Pop. 80. CAIRIRIS, or JABITACA. 1, A mountain range, Brazil, prov. Pernambuco, running N.W. to S.E., and forming the N. boundary of the basin of the Rio S2o Francisco in this province. Its total length is about 300 m. 2, Cairiris-Novos, a mountain range, Brazil, forming part of the boundary be tween provs. Rio Grande do Norte and Paraiba. 3, Cairiris- Vellws, a similar range, forming part of the boundary between provs. Paraiba and Pernambuco. CAIRN, a maritime vil. Scotland, co. of, and 22 m. W.N.W. Wigton, on the E. shore of Loch Ryan. It is a regular place of call for the steamers from Stranraer to Glas gow and Belfast. Pop. 196. CAIRNGORM, a mountain, Scotland, S.W. extremity co. Banff, one of the highest summits of the Grampian range ; height, 4050 ft. above the level of the sea. This mountain has been long celebrated for its crystals or topazes, which are now, however, becoming scarce. They are of various colours pink, white, brown, or black. CAIRNIE, par. Scot. Aberdeen. Pop. 1638. CAIRO, or GRAND CAIRO [Arabic, El-Masr, El-Kdhirah, the victorious capital; French, Le Caire; German, Kairo], cap. Egypt, situate near r. bank, Nile, 15 m. above the com mencement of the delta, 120 m. S.E. Alexandria, and 84 m. W. Suez; lat. 30 2 1" N. ; Ion. 31 15 5" E. (R.) It is almost square, and, after Constantinople, is the largest city in the Ottoman empire, being 3 m. in length, and about 2 broad. It is built partly on the slope, partly at the foot of the last THE EN\TK I C A f.nrfish Mil.v s ^assff "]/* I KO rXJIL* IWL height of the hill range of Mokattam, and is enclosed with antique battlements and stone walls, having several gate ways, and lofty towers at intervals. Within the walls there are about 30,000 inhabited houses, including several palaces, 400 mosques, 240 streets, and several public squares, many fountains, and 300 cisterns, or reservoirs; and the city is intersected by a canal communicating with the Nile, and sup plying water to the inhabitants. Cairo is built in old Arabian Saracenic style, without any mixture of Western forms. The houses are lofty, flat-roofed, and have numerous projections, and windows with narrow wooden gratings. No two are CAIEO 551 CAIRO alike. No attempt is made at symmetry, yet the whole is most harmonious. Most of these houses are built of air-dried bricks, few are of stone, and none of wood ; and many present in their interior a true picture of Oriental luxury. The nu merous beautiful minarets with which the city is adorned, contribute greatly to heighten the general impression in favour of Cairo. The city is divided into several quarters, separated from each other by gates, which are regularly closed at night. The i public streets are merely crooked lanes, few of them being j 10 ft. broad. The bye-streets, and those in the interior | quarters, are still narrower ; and, in consequence of the | manner in which the houses are built, each story projecting beyond that immediately below it, two persons may shake hands across the streets from the upper windows. The streets are not paved, but they are kept extremely clean. They are constantly obstructed by caravans of camels, riders on ass- back and horseback, little regarding the pedestrians, who are few in number, and composed wholly of the poorer classes, The chief square of Cairo is the magnificent area El-Esbe- kiah, which is annually inundated by the overflowing of the Nile, and the centre of which is laid out as a garden ; it is surrounded with many of the finest mansions, several of which belong to Government officials, including the palaces of Ali Pasha and Amet Pasha. In this square there is a monument to General Kleber, who was assassinated there on June 14, 1800. The buildings in the citadel merit first mention, from their prominence, in a general view of the city, no less on account of the interest which attaches to several of them. This fortress, founded A.D. 1176, by Saladin, is built on a calcareous rock, in the S.E. quarter of the city, of which it forms the abrupt termination; within its walls, March 1, 1811, the t massacre of the Mamalukes took place. It contains the mint, an arsenal, the Pasha s marble palace, his new mosque, i &c. To make room for the latter, a lofty antique edifice, j called Youssouf s or Joseph s Hall, was removed in 1829. I The vice-regal palace is small, hut has had some showy addi- j tions made to it of late years. Joseph s Well still remains ; it is dug in the rock, and consists of two parts, the upper and lower well ; and a winding staircase leads to the bottom, a depth of 260 ft. The fortress is further supplied with water from the Nile, by an aqueduct, formed by Saladin. But the most remarkable building of the citadel is its new mosque perhaps one of the most splendid in the world built of Egyptian marble, and really wonderful, considering that it has been got up by native architects and workmen, without any fixed plan, almost without any measurement, and, as it i were, only in imitation of other buildings of the same style. ! Behind the citadel is a fort, upon a rock, called the Jebel el ; Jooshee, the ascent to which is by a long causeway. It was on the site of this fort that Mahomet Ali erected a battery against the citadel, then in possession of Khoorshid Pasha, by which he obtained the surrender of the place. The most interesting edifices of Cairo are, undoubtedly, its mosques ; and though many of the 400 it possesses are in ruins, yet the number in repair and in daily use is very great. The oldest mosque, as well as the oldest building in Cairo, is the mosque of Ahmed-ebn-el-Tooloon, generally known as the Jama Tayloon, of unknown date, but evidently anterior to 879, and though not remarkable for beauty, it is of high in terest in the history of architecture. The finest mosque is that of Sultan Hassan, immediately below the citadel, and built of blocks obtained from the pyramids. Its porch is lofty and beautifully ornamented, the cornice of its towering walls is rich, and its minarets, and the arches of its spacious courts, are striking. Near the bazaar of the Khan Khaleel, is the mosque of Sultan Kalaoon, to which is attached the Morastan or mad-house, founded by that prince, in A.D. 1287, and the only one in Egypt, till the erection of the new lunatic j asylum by Mahomet Ali, in 1 844. In the mosque is the hand some tomb of the founder, who died, A.D. 1200. Not far from this mosque is that of Sultan Berkook, with his tomb attached. This potentate was the first sultan of the Circassian Mamaluke dynasty, and was renowned for having twice repulsed the Tartars under Tamerlane. Besides those named, the other principal mosques are the Ezher, Hassanin, El Hakem, and those of Sultans El Ghoree, the Sharawee, Moaiiid, and Sitteh Zayneb. The tombs of the Egyptian Caliphs, which occupied the site of the bazaar of Khan Khaleel, are all destroyed but that of El Saleh Eiyoob, who died in 1250. Near them are the tombs of Sultan Baybers, Naser Mohammed, Baharite Mamaluke princes, and various others, some of them remark ably elegant. The largest convent of derwishes existing is at Cairo; it was built in 1174; and between the city and Old Cairo is another. There is also an hospital for the sick poor, with 500 beds, 200 of which are for women. The principal bazaars of Cairo are the Ghoreah and Khan MOSQUE OF SULTAN BEBKOOK, AND FOUNTAIN OF ISMAIL P,\ From Hay s Sketches of Cairo. Khaleel ; in the former, cottons, silks, tarbooshes (Fez caps), &c., are sold; in the latter, cloths, dresses, swords, silks, embroideries, &c. ; and in both goods are disposed of by public cry or auction. In the Hamzowee, silks, crape, cloth, &c., and most European tissues, are sold ; the dealers are all nominal Christians. Some of the bazaars are well covered over, and all their passages are kept cool by watering; and each one is confined to certain classes of goods or wares. The same observation applies to the shops. Those of the Svokereeh, for instance, or sugar quarter, are for sugar, almonds, dried fruit, &c. ; the Nahasin, full of coppersmiths ; the Khordukleeh, where hardware, cups, coffee-pots, &c., are sold ; the Suovjah, occupied by sword-mounters ; the Sagha, by gold and silver workers; and the Gohergdeh, by jewellers. The Okalet-el-Gelab or slave market, in the centre of the city, is a large old building, surrounding a large court. The slaves exposed for sale are chiefly from Abyssinia, Nubia, Dongola, and Senaar. Circassians of both sexes are also sold, but these are usually only procured to order. Public baths are numerous, but none are remarkable. The largest is the Tumbalee, near the Bab-el-Shareeh. Many of the sibeels or public fountains are curious specimens of the peculiarities of Oriental taste, abounding in great luxuriance of ornament. The most remarkable are those of Tossoom and Ismail Pashas, the sons of Mahomet Ali ; and some others, of older date, in the centre of the town. There are several hotels for strangers from the West, with a number of Frank lodging or boarding-houses, a few of which are specially for British or Americans. CAIRO 552 CAIRO The climate of Cairo is esteemed healthy. It is dry, though in winter heavy rain is frequent. At that period, also, the nights are cold. From July to November N. winds prevail, and in general are favourable to the country and the traveller ; but they bring with them from the Mediterranean heavy and cold dews, which lower the temperature suddenly, and render it dangerous to be out at night without being warmly clad. In April and May the hot S. winds prevail, and no de-\v falls. The medium temperature is about 70 25 Fah., varying from 95 the maximum, or 86 50 the medium of August, to 52 the minimum, or 56 50 the medium of January. It is in order to form a shelter from the great heats of summer, and the cold winds of winter, that the streets are built so crooked and so narrow. Besides the usual Moslem festivals (see CONSTANTINOPLE) held in Cairo, it is the scene of two great events, annually the ceremonial departure and return of the Haj or Mecca pilgrims through the Bab-el-Nasr or Gate of Victory, on the THE WALLS, CAIRO From Hny s 3 rttchei of Cairo E. or desert side of the city; and the opening of the canal at Old Cairo, which is also an annual ceremony of great import. There are few places of amusement. Within the last few years a theatre has been set on foot in the Frank quarter, with amateur actors, who play gratis. A more useful institution, in the same locality, is the library and reading-room of the Egyp tian Society. In 1842, another society for respectable Euro peans, called the Egyptian Literary Association, was founded here. Ibrahim Pasha commenced a public library in 1830; and both he and his father made beginnings towards forming a museum of antiquities, in which, however, little progress has been made. In Cairo there are nine cotton-spinning factories, 10 for weaving silk and cotton, 13 for manufacturing cloth, 14 calico printing-works, 18 dye works, 15 bleacheries, 16 iron- foundries, &c. In the citadel are a factory of small arms and cannon, the latter bronze, and of small calibre ; an iron rolling-mill, and the mint. There were in Cairo, in a recent year, about 24 Moslem foreign merchants; 15 European, but no British, houses; 10 Catholic Greeks , and six Schismatics establishments. In the city were 164 corporated bodies for the regulation or advancement of native trades. But the commerce of Cairo is much diminished. It has ceased to be a depot, as it formerly was, for either articles of export or import. Alexandria, from the greater facility which its position affords, has supplanted it in importance. It is still, however, a great market for gums and some other secondary articles. The stocks of goods in Cairo are consumed principally by the inhabitants of the city, the buyers for the interior finding it more advantageous to supply themselves from the warehouses of the importers at Alexandria. At Cairo are resident consuls from France, Sardinia, and the U. States. The police of Cairo is superintended by a bash-aga, with an office near the Frank quarter; this functionary decides slight cases summarily, but sends those of a graver character before the judicial diicans in the citadel, or submits them for the consideration of the viceroy or his resident deputy. Questions of property, family disputes, and all proper cases of law, come under the jurisdiction of the Mehkemeh or Cadi s court : the operations of this tribunal are ordinarily slow, but may be quickened, it is said, by bribery. No foreigners can legally buy real property in Cairo. Europeans and Americans are judicially subject to the consuls or envoys of their several Governments, and cannot be punished by Turkish law. The Cadi s court used to be held in the decayed buildings of the old Sultan s palace ; but a new legal edifice, with courts and offices, has lately been opened. To Mahomet Ali, Egypt owes the introduction of elemen tary and specific education. In Cairo there are three primary schools, with 400 pupils, where reading and writing, and the four rules of arithmetic are taught. There are, besides, several primary schools here and elsewhere, for the soldiery, besides scientific academies for cadets, &c. From 4000 to 5000 pupils are educated in the schools of the city mosques. The Church of England Missionary Society has a school connected with the British chapel in Cairo, for young male Orientals ; and another for 100 native girls. Omnibuses run to Boulac, and across the ^_ v desert to Suez. In March 1851, the Pasha officially announced his intention of con- ^- structing a railway between Cairo and Alex andria an undertaking expected to be pro ceeded with in the same year, and which will afford a much more speedy means of transit than the water-way of the Nile and theMah- moodiah canal connecting those two cities. Environs of Cairo. The following general view of the exterior features of the city is given by Dr. Hoffmeister (1846) : Palm- trees and mimosas rise in grand picturesque groups above the city walls. The central part of the background is filled by a wood of palms, stretching into the distance ; near to this, on the right, rise the giant structures of the pyramids of Ghizeh. These supply the place of mountains, which would other wise be wanting to complete the picture, the foreground of which consists of a thick wood of acacia. In the interspace are fields of maize ; in the midst of the plain a small lake, embowered with rows of the Labekacacia. On the horizon the desert may be distinctly perceived, by the yellowish-gray of the atmos phere which hangs over it. The cemeteries or cities of tombs," are situated outside the walls. Among them are the sepulchres of the Mamaluke kings, of the Circassian dynasty (reigned 1382-1517), on its E. side, beyond the gate Bab-el-Nasr. To each tomb a mosque is attached. The palace and gardens of Shoobra lie about 4 m. to the N. of the city, the road to which, along the banks of the Nile, is shaded with lofty sycamores. This splendid country-seat of Mahomet Ali is begirt with a fine pleasure-garden ; more than 30 Persian wheels are employed in irrigating its grounds. In its immediate vicinity are some other villas ; and adjoining them, a row of extensive manufactories. Between Boulac and Cairo are the fine palace and magnificent gardens of I In ahi in Pasha. OLD CAIRO [Musr-el-Ateekeh], called Fostat by the Arabs, is the S. or upper port of Cairo, where all duties on goods destined for the latter are levied and paid. It presents some objects of interest, including an old Roman fortress, and the splendid mosque of Amer. The inhabitants are mostly Copts, and here are several convents of that sect of Oriental Chris tians. Seven antique corn stores, popularly called the gran aries of Joseph, have lately been demolished. The aqueduct which conducts the waters of the Nile to the citadel of Cairo, by a winding course of 2 m., here commences. In the Isle of Roda, opposite Old Cairo, is the famed Mtkkeeds or ancient Nilometer, for measuring the rise of the Nile, upon which the fertility of Egypt depends. Uoulac, already referred to, is the lower port of Cairo. The site of the city of Cairo is said to be that of the Babylon of Cambyses, built on the ruined site of the pre-existing Lntopolis of the Egyptians. The present city was founded CAIRO 553 CALABRIA lay the Arabs, about A.D. 970 ; and its citadel, as we have seen, was raised by Sultan Saladin, in 1176. From that period till the year 1517, when it was taken by the Turks, it was the capital of the Saracenic Sultans of Egypt. The former governed it by Pashas, these being latterly controlled by the Mamalukes, to whose massacre, followed by the resump tion of rule by the Pasha, we have already adverted. Pop. of Cairo and its suburbs, about 300,000; of which 190,000 are Egyptians, 10,000 Copts, 4000 Jews, 5000 Syrians, 5000 Greeks, 2000 Armenians, and a varying number of Franks or Europeans. (Quetin, Guide en Orient; Russegger, Reise in Egypten; Wilkinson s Modern Egypt; &c.) CAIRO [anc. Crixia], a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 10 m. N.W. Savona, 1. bank, Bormida. The French defeated the Austrian army here in 1794. Pop. 4500, CAIROAN, or KAJRWAN, a tn. Tunis. See KAIROUAN. CAITHNESS, a maritime co. Scotland, occupying the N.E. extremity of that kingdom, bounded, W. by co. Suther land, and by the N. Atlantic Ocean on all other sides. It is about 43 m. long, S.W. to N.E., and about 30 broad ; area, 446,080 ac., of which about 100,000 are cultivated and in pasture, the remainder is moor and hill. The general appear ance of the country is flat and uninteresting, having neither trees nor eminences to break the dreary monotony of the scene. It contains no navigable rivers, nor lakes of any con sequence ; the shores are bold and rocky. Until of late years, the dwellings of the tenantry were, in general, extremely poor; but great improvements in this respect, and also in the various branches of agriculture and husbandry, especially in the rearing of cattle, have recently taken place, so that the country already presents a much more cheerful and thriving appearance than it did formerly. The soil, where duly culti vated, is extremely fertile, yielding luxuriant crops ; and the sheep and lambs reared in this county command the highest market prices. On the coasts, herring-fishing is prosecuted with great success, about 120,000 barrels being taken yearly. There are about 700 boats, manned by five men each, all belonging to the county, engaged in this fishery. There are also two considerable salmon -fisheries, one on the river Thurso, another on that of Berriedale. Caithness contains 1 parishes. It sends a member to Parliament ; and its prin cipal town, Wick, unites with Kirkwall, Dornoch, Tain, Dingwall, and Cromarty, in choosing a representative ; con stituency (1850), 651. Annual value of real property in 1815, 34,469; and in 1842^13, 65,869. Its chief towns are Wick and Thurso, the former being the more important. The natives are of Scandinavian origin, the country having been colonized by that people from the Orkneys, where they had been previously settled. Pop. (1841), 36,343; being less, by nearly 200, than it was 10 years before ; the defi ciency is accounted for by emigration, and the incorporation of small farms. Pop. (18511.38,709. CAISTOR. 1, A small market tn. and par. England, co. of, and 21 m. N.E. Lincoln, pleasantly situate on the slope of a hill ; has an Established church, several places of worship for dissenters, and a free grammar-school. It is, however, chiefly noticeable on account of its antiquity, having been a Roman station, as numerous relics, indicative of the presence of that people, are dug up from time to time ; area of par. 6490 ac. Pop. 2033. 2, Caistor-next- Yarmouth, par. Eng. near Yarmouth, Norfolk ; 2920 ac. Pop. 909. 3, Caistor- St.-Edmunds, par. Eng. Norfolk; 910 ac. Pop. 147. CAJAHIBA, a small isl. Brazil, W. side Bahiade Todos- os-Santos, opposite the mouth of the river Serigi. It is low, cultivated, and has a primary school. CAJANO (POGGIO A). See POGGIO A CAJANO. CAJARE, a tn. France, dep. Lot, 20 m. E. Cahors, r. bank, Lot ; in a large and fertile valley, surrounded on all sides by hills clothed with vines. The streets are narrow and irregular, and the houses indifferently built, with excep tion of some along the old ramparts, now converted into a promenade. The only buildings of interest are the parish church, built in 1289 ; and the remains of an ancient fort, apparently of a very remote antiquity. Numerous fairs are held here. Pop. 1074. CA JAZZO, a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro ; on a hill, near the Volturno, 10 m. W.N.W. Capua. It is very ancient, is defended by a citadel built by the Lombards, and has a handsome cathedral, several churches and convents, a VOL. I. seminary, college, and an hospital. Good wine is produced in the neighbourhood. Pop. 3891. CALABAR, a maritime dist. Upper Guinea, W. Africa, intersected by two rivers, called, respectively, Old and New Calabar. The limits of the district are not well as certained, but may be said, generally, to lie between the river Benin or Formosa, and the Rio del Key, with the Kong Mountains in the rear, and thus having the Niger pass ing through its centre. The coast here, a projecting line between the Bights of Benin and Biafra, is uniformly low and flat, unbroken by the slightest elevation, and closely intersected by rivers, most, if not all of which, with ex ception of Old Calabar, being branches of the Niger. Much vegetable matter and silt are discharged at every ebb tide by these mouths, which discolour the ocean with a filthy scum of a brown colour, and give forth a sickening smell, for the distance of several miles. The climate of Calabar is extremely deleterious, and the coast generally inhospitable ; there not being a lighthouse or single harbour of refuge throughout its entire length. Tornadoes are frequent, and of the most violent character, accompanied by vivid light ning, and tremendous peals of thunder, with rains so fierce and heavy that it is impossible to look to windward, or discern anything beyond a few yards distance, while the noise so overcomes the loudest voice, that all orders must be conveyed by messengers. A large portion of the population of this district are slaves, and are employed chiefly in culti vating the provision grounds, or in the various kind of labours connected with the palm-oil trade, in which the chiefs are engaged. Old Calabar or Bongo river is situated about 90 m. nearly due W. from New Calabar. The entrance of its estuary, which is nearly in the centre of the Bight of Biafra, is in lat. 4 35 N. The latter is a considerable expanse of water, about 9 m. in breadth, with a strong current. The traders ascend the river about 30 m. New Calabar enters the Bight of Biafra at lat. 4 30 N.; Ion. 7 7 E. Its course is from the N.W., and its depth, 20 m. from the sea, 6 fathoms. This river is believed, on good grounds, to be one of the numerous terminating branches of the Niger, the power and volume of its current showing that it must be the embouchure of a great river. CALABOZO, a tn. Venezuela, prov. of, and 120 m. S.S.W. Caracas, between the rivers Guarico and Urituco, in the midst of the Llanos. It is tolerably well built, and has rather a pleasing appearance. Its church, though not very handsome, is commodious. The principal wealth of the in habitants consists of cattle. The neighbouring ponds abound in electrical eels, which Humboldt describes as being from 5 ft. 4 inches to 5 ft. 7 inches in length, and capable of kill ing a horse. Calabozo, formerly only an Indian village, owes its existence, as a town, to the Biscay Company. Pop. 5000. CALABRIA, an extensive territory, kingdom of Naples, comprising all the S.W. peninsula in which Italy terminates, from about lat. 40 N. to the Strait of Messina ; area estim ated at 7000 sq. m. It is divided for administrative purposes into three provinces Calabria Citra, the most northerly ; Calabria Ultra I., the most southerly; and Calabria Ultra II., between the two former. The central region is occupied by the great Apennine ridge, wild and black, to which, however, whole colonies, with their cattle, migrate in the summer. The flats near the coast are marshy and unhealthy, and inhabited by herds of buffaloes ; but the valleys at the foot of the moun tains are delightful, and rich with the most luxuriant vegeta tion. The vine, the orange and lemon trees, the fig, the olive, and all the fruits of S. climes, grow there to perfection. The climate was reckoned salubrious in ancient times ; but in some places the accumulation of stagnant water produces disease in the hot season. During the remainder of the year the heavy dews preserve a delightful verdure, increased by numerous springs and streams. Corn, rice, saffron, anise, liquorice, madder, flax, hemp, olives, almonds, and cotton, are raised in abundance. The sugar-cane also comes to perfec tion here. Sheep, horned cattle, and horses, are numerous. Near Reggio, a kind of mussel is found, called Pinna marina, from whose silky byssus or beard a beautiful fabric is manu factured, remarkable for its extreme lightness and warmth. Coral is also fished. The quarries and pits afford alabaster, marble, gypsum, alum, chalk, rock-salt, lapis lazuli, and the fine copper renowned since the time of Homer. 70 CALABRITTO 554 CALAIS A melancholy temperament, a concentration of feelings, and a sullen distrust, render the Calabrian formidable when irri tated. Even their women seem endowed with a masculine spirit; their features, harsh though regular, are scowling and wrinkled even in youth, and their uncouth dress leaves them little of that delicacy which is considered elsewhere natural to the sex. They marry early, and soon fade. The men, with their short jackets, close trowsers, leather gaiters, and sandals of undressed skin, tied by thongs, and a rusty conical hat, with narrow brim and trimmed with ribb ins and images of the Virgin, may be seen skulking about behind their olive- trees, or some loose stone wall, as if in wait for some pas senger to fall upon. The peasant labours little, subsisting almost entirely on the spontaneous productions of nature, and his habitation is of the most wretched description. Heredit ary hatred divides most of the families, and an individual never goes abroad unarmed. In the night they barricade their houses. They have little or no idea of social inter course, and seldom visit each other. The language of the people is a corruption of Italian, difficult to be understood, but full of original and pointed expressions. The natives are well formed, muscular, and of a brown complexion, with animated countenances, and eyes full of expression. Like the Sardin ians and Corsicans, they murder without remorse when insti gated by cupidity or revenge. The robber carries religious relics in his bosom, and trusts to them for the success of his nefarious enterprises. The towns in this country are built on steep conical hills, crowned with houses to the very top, the outer or lower buildings being joined together by walls, so as to form <i sort of rampart. They are generally in the lowest state of wretchedness. The arts and manufactures of Calabria are in an extremely backward state. There are some silk manufactures at Mon- teleone, and olive-oil is manufactured to a large extent. Silk is produced in tolerable quantity, although of a darker shade than that of the other provinces, from the red mulberry being employed to feed the silk-worms. Calabria has long been subject to devastation by earth quakes, 1 years having seldom elapsed, during the last century and a half, without a shock; but the more severe convulsions have always been separated by much wider intervals. The last remarkable visitation of this kind occurred in 1783, when about 40,000 persons perished in the Calabrias and Sicily, and 20,000 more, shortly after, by causes resulting from it. By far the greatest number who died at the moment, were buried in the ruins of their houses, but numbers also were ingulfed in the deep fissures into which the earth was rent. It is said that the conduct of the Calabrian peasants on this dreadful occasion was singularly atrocious ; they abandoned the farms and flocked into the towns in great numbers, not to rescue. their countrymen from a lingering death, but to plunder ; and were seen stripping the wounded and half buried, while yet living. Pop. (1844), 1,074,558. CALABRITTO, a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Citra, on the Sele, 10 m. N.E. Campagna, with several churches, and a convent. Large fairs are held here. Pop. 2420. CALACEITE, a tn. Spain, Aragon, prov. Teruel, 28 m. N.N.W. Tortosa, in a plain at the base of a mountain. It is tolerably well built, and possesses a parish church, two endowed schools, a townhall, prison, cemetery, and several fountains. Wine and oil are expressed, and some trade is carried on in grain and cattle. A cattle-fair is held in De cember. Pop. 2404. CALAHORRA. 1, [anc. Calagurrix], a city, Spain, Old Castile, prov. of, and 24 m. E.S.E. Logrono, 1. bank, Cidacos, 2 m. from its confluence with the Ebro. It has several squares, an ancient cathedral, four churches, four chapels, four schools, an episcopal palace, townhall, hospital, and a large Francis can convent, which now serves the triple purpose of school- house, prison, and theatre. Weaving, expressing oil, and agriculture, are the chief occupations. Annual fair in August. Calahorra is famous for the siege it sustained from Cneus Pompey, B.C. 72, by whom it was taken, after an obstinate resistance, and the most dreadful suffering from famine. Por tions of its ancient walls, towers, and aqueducts, still remain. Pop. 5994. 2, A tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 35 m. E. Granada. It has a parish church, two endowed schools, a townhousc, prison, and a magnificent palace of the Marquis of Cenet, of Doric architecture, built in the 15th century. Some little trade is carried on in wine, oil, and grain. In former times, numerous iron mines, and two of silver, were wrought in the adjacent hills, near one of which is a mineral spring. Pop. 1993. CALAIS, a seaport tn., and fortified place of the first class, France, dep. Pas-de-Calais, 20 in. N.E. Boulogne, on the strait of, and 27 m. S.E. Dover; lat. 50 57 36" N.; Ion. 151 15" E. (it.) It has a tolerable port, at the junction of several canals, which facilitate communication with Gravelines, Arras, Dunkirk, and St. Omer ; and is the terminus of the railway from Lille, through which it is directly connected with the metropolis. The town is nearly square, is walled, well for tified, and has a citadel on the W. side, and several forts commanding the town, harbour, and approaches. On the land side, the country is flat, and can be laid under water, with the exception of an approach about 200 yards wide, protected by a cross fire. The ramparts are planted with trees, and afford an agreeable promenade. The streets are broad and well paved, the houses substantially built of brick, and the hotels general excellent. Still the town has on the whole a dull aspect, and evidentally owes its importance rather to the number of travellers who pass through it, than to any pecu liarly favourable circumstance pertaining to the place itself. The place d armes, near the centre of the town, has some good houses, and here the Hotel de Ville, built in 1740, is situated. The cathedral contains a fine altar-piece in Genoa marble, and above the altar is a magnificent painting of the Assumption, by Vandyke. Other noteworthy objects are, the cours de Ghiise, the column erected to commemorate the landing of Louis XVIII. in 1814; the public library, with 12,000 volumes ; theatre ; barracks, containing an enormous water cistern ; and the hotel Dessin, which combines a hotel, theatre, garden, and public baths. The town is so ill supplied with spring water, that the inhabitants are obliged to content them selves with the rain collected in cisterns. Calais is the seat of a tribunal and chamber of commerce, the residence of several foreign consuls, and has an agricultural society, school of design, and school of hydrography. The harbour is formed by two moles, which are continued seaward by wooden piers, the whole being about three quar ters of a mile in length. At ebb tide it is nearly dry, and has IK BELFBT From Voyages dans 1 Ancienne Fran not a greater depth than 15 or 18 ft. at high water, according to the wind. A tower in the centre of the town serves as a lighthouse, the light of which is revolving, and is 118 ft. CALAIS 555 CALATAGIRONE above the sea level. A stationary tidal light at the red fort, announces when the port is accessible ; good anchorage ground from 2 to 3 m. N. W. the harbour. Calais is well known as one of the principal ports for the debarkation of travellers from England ; there being daily communication with Dover by steamboat, and several times a week with London and Ramsgate. In 1849, the number of travellers that arrived by sea was 35,411, and in 1850 it reached to 53,864. The manufactures of the town, formerly inconsiderable, have risen of late to some importance. The bobbin-net trade employs 782 looms, and from 4000 to 5000 artisans. Numerous mills have been erected, steam-engines are multiplying, and the inner ramparts have been removed to make way for the fac tories. There are also some oil and soap works, tanneries, and a salt-refinery. Vessels are built here, and fitted out for the cod, mackerel, and herring fisheries. A considerable trade is carried on in spirits, salt, oil, grain, wine, hemp, wood, coal, &c., and not less than 55 millions of eggs are annually exported to England. In 1347, Calais was taken by Edward III. of England, after a siege of 1 1 months. The story of his determining to exe cute six of the principal burgesses, with the heroic Eustache de St. Pierre at their head, and of his sparing their lives at the intercession of his wife, Queen Philippa, is too well known to require repetition. Calais remained in the hands of the English from 1347 to 1558, during which time they improved the town, and strengthened the fortifications. In 1558, it was taken by the Duke of Guise, and was the last relic of the Gallic dominions of the Plantagenets, which at one time com prehended the half of France. Pop. 10,673. CALAIS, a tn., U. States, Maine, r. bank, St. Croix, (nearly opposite St. Andrews in New Brunswick), 140 m. N.E. Augusta ; lat. 44 7 N. ; Ion. 69 5 W. It has an upper and lower village, 2 m. apart, connected by a railroad ; 10 schools, and a grist and 20 saw mills, propelled by the falls, which afford excellent water-power. Below the lower falls is a bridge across to the British side of the river. The tide rises here 20 ft., and vessels of the largest size can ascend to the lower village. Pop. 2934. CALAIS (PAS DE). See PAS-DE-CALAIS. CALAMATA, or KALAMATA [Greek, Kalamai] , a seaport, Greece, Morea, cap. gov. Messenia, at the head of the Gulf of Koron. It stands about 1 m. from the sea, 1. bank, Nedon, a torrent which emerges from a rocky gorge in Mount Tay- getum ; and has a small suburb on the other side of the tor rent, with mills and gardens supplied from it, by an artificial channel. It is the seat of the bishopric of Messenia, of a court of first resort, and has a busy trade. Its exports con sist of wool, oil, raw silk, and figs of the first quality ; and is noted for a particular kind of handkerchief, which, from the brilliancy of the colours, and moderate price, is in great demand throughout the Levant. In 1847, the arrivals in the harbour were 1108 vessels ; tonn. 13,024; departures, 1098 ; tonn. 12,430. The town was burnt by Ibrahim Pasha, in 1 825. Almost every house in Calamata contains a chamber for the rearing of silkworms. The pop. consists of 400 families ; of which only six are Turkish. (Leake.) CALAMIANES, an island group and prov. Philippines. The group comprises the islands Calamianes, Busvagon (which see), Coron, Linacapan, and Iloe or Yloe; between the islands of Palawan and Mindoro, besides numerous small islets. They lie between lat. 11 25 and 12 20 N. ; and three of them are intersected by meridian 120 E. The island Cala mianes, having Busvagon N., and Linacapan S., is about 36 m. long by about 1 7 broad ; hilly, fertile, and abounding in wild animals, such as deer, hogs, and rats, which commit great ravages on the crops. The PROVINCE includes the island group whence it is named, the N. portion of island Palawan, and several islets adjacent. It is thinly inhabited, and pro duces gold, rice, legumes, excellent wax, honey, fruits, beau tiful pigs, and fowls. It is hilly, well wooded, and fertile ; its coasts yield turtle and pearls ; and, though in general dangerous, yet possesses some good harbours and anchorages. Pop. of prov. 16,028. (Mallat.) CALAMO, or KALAMO, one of the smaller of the Ionian Islands, between the S. end of Santa Maura and the coast of Greece, from which it is separated by a narrow channel ; lat. (E. end) 38 16 N. ; Ion. 20 54 E. It is about 7 m. long by 2.J greatest breadth ; partially covered with olives and vines, but pasturage indifferent. There is a little harbour earned Geroglimione, on the S.E. side, affording good shelter, where fresh water is to be obtained. CALAMOCHA, a tn. Spain, Aragon, prov. of, and 38 m. N. Teruel, in an extensive plain, near r. bank, Jiloca. It has a parish church, chapel, two endowed schools, a townhall, prison, and cemetery ; and some trade in cattle, wine, and grain. Pop. 1400. CALAMOTTA, an isl. Austria, Dalmatia, 7 m. W. by N. Ragusa, in the Adriatic. It is highly cultivated, producing excellent wine and oil. With the neighbouring islands, Giu- pan and Mezzo, it was either given or sold to Ragusa, in 1080, by Silvester, king of Dalmatia. Pop. 500. CALANDSOOG, a vil. Holland, prov. N. Holland, on the N. Sea, 9 m. S. the Helder. It has a Reformed church and a school. This is the third church two former ones, at considerable distances towards the W., having been swept away by the sea, with a large tract of cultivated ground. Near Calandsoog, the combined British and Russian forces landed, August 27, 1 799, and defeated a Dutch army with great loss! CALANAS, a vil. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 20 m. N. Huelva ; with a church, two chapels, a townhouse, school, hospital, and cemetery ; and some trade in grain, flax and cattle. Pop. 1948. CALANTAN, or KALANTAN, a principality, Malay pen insula, E. coast, tributary to Siam, with river and town of same name. The PRINCIPALITY is bounded, N. and S., by the petty states, Sungora and Tringano, from which it is se parated by the rivers Banara and Basot; parallel 6 15 N., which intersects the mouth of the river Calautan, may be taken as the centre line of the territory, which probably ex tends on either side about 30 m. The country is composed of vast plains, and its soil is clay mixed with sand. It is fer tile, and produces rice, coffee, pepper, legumes, sugar-cane, bananas, &c. The principal mineral products are gold and tin. The RIVER has a tortuous course, is neither very I broad nor very deep ; has beautiful limpid water, and sandy I banks ; well stocked with a great variety of fish, and abounds in crocodiles. The TOWN, which lies near the mouth of the river, is composed of irregularly built huts, interspersed among groves of cocoa-nut, banana, durian, and other fruit- trees. The houses, both inside and outside, are filthy in the extreme. The PORT is small, shallow, and flanked on either side by a sand-hill. Pop. of principality estimated at 50,000. (Nouvelles Annales dcs Voyages, &c.) CALANTIGA ISLANDS, a group of islands, N.E. coast, Sumatra ; lat. 2 9 to 3 1 30" S. ; Ion. 1 04 5 E. The three principal islands are high, and may be seen 24 m. from the deck. CALAP, a small isl., N. Pacific Ocean, Gillolo Passage, W. end, isl. Popa ; lat. 1 15 S. ; Ion. 129 30 E. CALAPAN, a tn., N.E. ooast, isl. Mindoro, one of the Philippines ; lat. 13 20 N. ; Ion. 121 10 E. It is a poor place, and badly built ; has two small forts, but no port. The houses are covered with the bark of a species of palm, called Cabonegro, remarkable for its durability. Pop. 2790. CALARY, par. Irel. Wicklow ; 19,564 ac. Pop. 2954. CALASCIBETTA, or CALATASCIBETTA, a tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 14 m. N.E. Caltanicetta; with numerous caverns and sulphurous springs in its neighbourhood. Pop. 4788. CALASPARRA, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 40 m. N.W. Murcia ; with streets badly paved, and having two squares, a parish church, chapel, council-house, four schools, a poor- house, and a public fountain. Weaving, grinding corn and rice, expressing oil, tillage, and tending cattle, occupy the inhabitants, who also trade in cattle. Pop. 5275. CALATABELLOTA, a tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 27 m. N.W. Girgenti, near r. bank river of the same name the Crimisus of the Romans. The ancient Tnocala the prin cipal fortress occupied by the insurgents in the war of the slaves was situated in the vicinity of the town. Pop. 4768. CALATAFIMI, a tn. Sicily, dist. of, and 21 m. E.S.E. Trapani. It is badly built, has a ruinous castle on the sum mit of a neighbouring hill ; environs well cultivated, and ex tremely fertile. It occupies the site of the ancient Longarium. Pop. 8376. CALATAGIRONE, or CALTAGIRONE [anc. Galata Hier- onis], a tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 32 m. S.W. Catania, on the slope of a hill, and with its suburbs occupying a considerable extent of ground. It is reputed one of the wealthiest towns CALATAVOTURO 556 CALCUTTA in the island, has spacious and clean streets ; and its municipal regulations are judicious, compared with those of the generality of southern towns. It contains several churches and convents, a royal college, hospital, and orphan asylum ; is the seat of a bishop, and has an academy with four professors. The in habitants are esteemed the best workmen, in Sicily, in the useful arts, and manufacture good pottery-ware and cotton fabrics. Several fairs annually. It was fortified by the Saracens, and taken from them by the Genoese. The famous Roger Guiscard accorded extensive privileges to the town. Pop. 21,700. CALATAVOTURO, a tn. Sicily, prov. Palermo, 27 m. N.N.W. Caltanicetta, on the Grande. Jasper is found in the neighbourhood. Pop. 3408. CALATRAVA (SANTIAGO DE), a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 20 m. W. by S. Jaen. It is composed of a square, and some ill -made streets; and contains a parish church, small townhall, prison, endowed school, public store house, and cemetery. The people are engaged in tillage and cattle-rearing. In the vicinity is a quarry of white marble, of superior quality. Pop. 1014. CALATRAVA LA VIEJA, in Spain, the remains of the ancient city of Calatrava, on the S. bank of the Guadiana, 65 m. S.E. Toledo ; known as the Oretum or Oria of the Oretani, under the Romans. In the Middle Ages, it was strongly fortified, and was considered the key of the sierra Morena, the lofty barrier between Castile and Andalusia. The military order of Calatrava was founded here in 1158; the Knights at first retained the Cistertian habit, but afterwards shortened it, to make it more suitable for the field. They subsequently adopted a secular dress for common use, and one for ceremony, consisting of a mantle of white silk, tied with a cordon and tassels. The Knights rendered themselves famous in their contests with the Moors. The institution gradually degenerated, and, in 1485, the grand mastership was united to the crown. About 80 commanderies remain to the order, which was distinguished, in the days of its glory, by the title of the gallant order. CALATAYUD [anc. Bilbilis], a city, Spain, Aragon, prov. of, and 45 m. S.W. Saragossa, 1. bank, Jalon, near its junction with the Jiloca. It lies in a plain at the foot of two rocky ridges, the summits of which exhibit remains of several Arab fortifications. The city is divided into two parts, high and low. The former, or old Moorish town, called Moreria, is chiefly inhabited by a poor and miserable race of people, living in caves and hovels. The latter or modern town, contains numerous clean, well-paved streets, and 22 squares, lined with commodious houses, and handsome public buildings. Cala- tayud possesses in all 13 churches ; those of Sta. Maria and St. Sepolcro, are collegiate, and deserve especial notice. Sta. Maria was formerly a grand Arab mosque, built prior to the con quest of the city by Alonzo the Brave, in 1120; it has a lofty octagonal tower. St. Sepolcro, built in 1613, on the site of an earlier edifice bearing date 1 156, is in the Doric style, and con tains many curious relics. Of the remaining churches, two or three are handsome Gothic structures, and that of Santiago was also once a mosque. The other noteworthy public edifices are a spacious guild-hall, with session-house and jail attached, three hospitals, a theatre, barrack, bull-ring, workhouse, col lege, several primary and other schools, an episcopal palace, and extensive and magnificent old castle ; in the environs many agreeable public walks and pleasure-gardens. Manufac tures : linen and hempen fabrics, canvas, ropes, soap, paper, wine, oil, &e. Considerable trade is carried on in cattle, grain, fruit, hemp, and manufactured goods. An annual and well- attended fair for cattle and agricultural produce is held September. Calatayud is the birthplace of the poet Martial, and the painter Vera. Pop. 7125. (Madoz.) CALAURIA. See POROS. CALAVRITRA. See KALAVRYTA. CALAYAN,an isl. Indian Archipelago. See BABUYANES CALBE, or KALBE, a tn. Prussia, gov. of, and 15 m. S Magdeburg, cap. circle of same name, on the Saale ; here crossed by a bridge 1370 ft. in length. It has walls, witl five gates; contains two parish churches, several hospitals and other endowments ; and has manufactures of woollens paper, chicory, oil, and beet-root sugar. The railway between Leipzig and Magdeburg passes the town at the distance o a mile, where there is a station. Pop. 61)00. The CIRCLE, area, 161 geo sq. m., is level, and tolerably fertile. Pop. 50,175. CALBOURNE, par. Eng. Hants ; 5090 ac. Pop. 750. C ALGA, a prov. Peru, dep. Cuzco, and N. the city of that name. The surface is broken and uneven, but the tempera ture mild, excepting on the heights, where it is very cold. The soil is extremely fertile, producing in great abundance sugar-canes, wheat, maize, &c., and a great variety of fruits. The sugar made here is the finest in Peru. Three consider able rivers have their sources in and around this province ; these are the Paro or Beni, the Yambari or Paucartambo, and Urubamba. CALCAR, a tn. Prussia, gov. Dusseldorf, circle of, and 8 m. S.E. Cleves, on an island formed by the little river Ley. It contains two churches (a Protestant and a R. Catholic, tho latter possessing some fine paintings), and a handsome town- house ; has manufactures of cloth, flannel, hosiery, and hats ; a tannery, brewery, potash-work, and some trade in wood anil coal. It has also four cattle and two general markets. Pop. 1800. CALCASIEU, or CALCASU, a river and lake, U. States, Louisiana. The former rises in lat. 31 25 N., and, after a S.S.W. course of about 110 in., falls into the N. extremity of the lake of the same name, which, again, discharges itself into the Gulf of Mexico. TheLAKEisup\vardsof30m.inlength, about 10 m. in breadth, and is distant from the sea 9 or 10 m. At the N. end of the lake, and stretching from it N.E., is an extensive prairie, called the Great Calcasieu Prairie. CALCEBY, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 430 ac. Pop. 52. CALCETHORPE, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 710 ac. Pop. 69. CALCI, a vil. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 7 m. E. Pisa, near r. bank, Arno. It is well built, commanded by a castle belonging to the Archbishop of Pisa, and possesses a, handsome parish church, which has a fine marble font and granite pulpit. A considerable quantity of oil is manufactured here. Pop. 2000. CALCINAJA, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 12 m. E. Pisa, in a plain, r. bank, Arno. It is well built, and possesses a fine church. The vicinity is fertile, and the inhabitants are chiefly engaged in husbandry. Pop. 3222. CALCINATE, a vil. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 10 m. E.S.E. Bergamo, on the post road to Brescia. It is tolerably well built, and possesses a handsome parish church, school, hospital, and poorhouse. The inhabitants are mostly engaged in husbandry and cattle-rearing. Pop. 1806. CALCINATO, a tn. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 12 m. S.E. Brescia, on a gentle declivity, 1. bank, Chiesa. Here the Austrians were defeated by the French, April 19, 1706. Pop. 3693. CALCIO, a tn. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 18 m. S.S.E. Bergamo, r. bank, Oglio, on the highroad from Milan to Brescia. The streets are well made and clean, and the town possesses two handsome churches, an hospital, and a brandy distillery ; woollen, linen, and hempen fabrics, oil, and wine, are manufactured ; and considerable attention is paid to the rearing of silkworms. Calcio was formerly the capital of a small province called Calciana, when its importance and population were much greater than at present. Pop. 2906. CALCKEN, a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. E. Flanders, 8 m. E. Ghent, 1. bank, Scheldt. It has breweries, bleach- fields, flour, oil, malt, lint, and saw mills, and an annual horse fair. Pop. 4952. CALCUTTA [Kallee Ghattah, the ghaut or landing- place of the goddess Kallee; in acts of Parliament, called the Town of Calcutta, and Factory of Fort- William ], a well- known city, Hindoostan, cap. of presid., and prov. Bengal, and seat of the supreme government of British India; lat. 22 33 5" N.; Ion. 88 19 7 2" E. (R.), situate on a level tract, 1. or E. bank, Hooghly, a branch of the Ganges, about 100 m. from the sea. It is about 4J m. in length, S.E. to N.W., along the course of the river ; and in breadth, E. to W., from 1 to If in. at the broadest part, which is about the centre. At either extremity, the width does not exceed half a mile. Beyond these limits, however, there are numerous suburbs, villages, and detached residences. A spacious way, called Circular Road, encompasses it on the land side, follow ing the line of the ancient entrenchment called the Mahrattn ditch; and marks the boundary of the liberties of the city, and CALCUTTA 557 CALCUTTA of the administration of English law. On the W. side, or that next the river, is an extensive quay, or breast-work, about 2 m. long, called the Strand, 40 ft. above low-water mark, and having landing-places or rjliauts, at intervals throughout its 8. Central Hospital. la Mission Church. , 11. Cathedral. ]>. I rmnpul Square. 13. HindnostaneeColleirp. and Wellestey Square. o !6. Machooleh Bazaar St. 17. Boitacannah and Bo" Bazaar Street. 18. Welksley Strctt. entire length. The river, opposite the city, varies in breadth, from about two furlongs at the narrowest part, to about three quarters of a mile at the broadest. The approach to the cap ital of British India, by the Hooghly, is thus described by Davidson : On arriving at Garden lieach, the stranger may begin to imagine, that, not wholly without reason, Calcutta has acquired the title of the "city of palaces." From the lower part of this lieach, on the right, the river bank is laid out in large gardens, each with a handsome mansion in its centre ; and the whole scene speaks of opulence and splendour. On approaching the head of Garden Reach, the stranger all at once beholds Fort William, and the town of Calcutta spread out before him, and a splendid view it is. Should he arrive in the month of November or December, he will behold, per haps, the finest fleet of merchant shipping the world could produce. Calcutta is divided into two distinct portions, the one, the N. portion, is occupied by natives ; the other, the S., by Euro peans. In the former, the streets are narrow and dingy, the shops and warehouses mean-looking. The lower parts of the houses contain the bazaars, and the upper the dwelling-houses. This department of the city is crowded with a low and hetero geneous population ; many being half naked, numbers entirely so, while others are bedizened in tawdry and fantastic gar ments; discordant noises of all sorts, and most offensive smells, complete the repulsive character of this portion of Calcutta. It is different with the S. or European portion. Here the streets are spacious ; the houses, most of them detached, large and handsome, built of brick, and stuccoed, which gives them the appearance of marble palaces. Chowringhee, which lies E. of the fort, is the fashionable and favourite quarter of the town, being apart from the quarter of trade and commerce. The streets there are wide, the houses handsome, and detached in their own grounds. Both the Episcopalian and Presbyterian burying-grounds are in this quarter of the city. The road which bounds Chow ringhee on the W. is about 80 ft. wide, and runs along the E. side of the Maidan or plain, from N. to S. The new theatre, called the Sans Sottci (an elegant Grecian structure), and the Asiatic Society s House (a plain building), are the only public edifices in this quarter. The ornamental character of some of its private houses, with their garden enclosures, is in some degree marred by the incongruous proximity of native huts, and open patches of unoccupied ground, which are, however, diminishing as building extends in this direction. The suburbs of Calcutta are extensive; and Garden Reach, about 3 m. S. of the town, is the most striking as to architec tural and park-like features, which are seen and admired from on board the ships, while sailing up the river. The houses are occupied by Europeans. The grounds are extensive, and laid out with fine trees, and parterres of shrubs interspersed with the bright colours of tropical plants, while the scene i.s enlivened by the ships constantly passing up and down. On the opposite bank are the botanical gardens, remarkable for their extent and beauty, and for the noble banyan and other trees which adorn them ; and lower down is seen, on the same side of the river, the elegant Gothic structure of Bishop s College. Allipore and Ballygunge are other suburbs to the E., both healthy; and having also garden houses of Europe ans, but without the river view. East of Calcutta lies the suburb of Entally, chiefly inhabited by Eurasians or half castes, and natives. Further towards the N. are the popu lous suburbs of Sealdah and Simleah, running into other like suburbs, containing the houses of wealthy natives, and the huts of their poorer countrymen ; showing what is so com mon in Eastern cities a commingling of the stately mansions of the wealthy with the wretched hovels of the poor. The houses of British residents in Calcutta have the fore court or garden surrounded by a wall ; the dining-room on the ground floor ; the middle story, surrounded by a verandah supported by pillars, occupied with the sitting-rooms of the family; and in the upper stories, the bed-chambers. Bath rooms are universally introduced ; and all the apartments are supplied with a punkah, moving noiselessly by means of a silk cord led into an adjoining apartment. Europeans, early in the morning, take out-of-door exercise, the air being then cool. At nine o clock, after bathing, they take breakfast; when, in the case of a family, they disperse for their several ocations. At the approach of sunset, every one seeks re creation on horseback or in carriages, till eight o clock, when dinner is served ; everything being conducted on the most splendid scale, and including every attainable luxury. The ice used is brought in large blocks from America, and is preserved in ice-houses. In the cooler season, theatricals, concerts, balls, and horse-racing, give a variety to the social itertainments. Trades, Bazaars, &c. The want of expensive outward decorations of the shops, and the absence of all show of goods in their windows, must strike a stranger forcibly. But some improvements in these respects are now beginning to be made ; and within, no disappointment will be met with, either as to the quality of the goods, or as to the skilfulness of the European tradesmen, by whom they are manufactured. Everything, in short, may be obtained here, which money can purchase, as readily, and as good in quality as in England. Several English firms have carriage manufactories, and turn out, in a style equal to that of Long- Acre, barouches, phaetons, chariots, and other descriptions of carriages adapted to the climate. The taste for the more elegant and expensive European equipages is extending among the rich natives. The principal trades practised by Europeans are those of hotel-keepers, jewellers and silversmiths, watchmakers, cabinet-makers, carvers and gilders, fancy stationers, dealers in objects of vertu, book sellers and bookbinders, boot and shoemakers, tailors, mantua- makers, milliners, ironmongers, apothecaries, confectioners and pastry cooks, grocers, dealers in oilmen s stores, tea, wine, and spirit dealers, coach-makers, livery-stable keepers and horse-dealers, house-builders, shipbuilders, iron-founders, and lastly undertakers. The native shops are in what are called bazaars, being CALCUTTA 558 CALCUTTA houses in close narrow streets, in the native town, where the rooms in the different floors are appropriated to the selling of all descriptions of goods. Among these, the principal are Burra b izaar, and the old and new China bazaars. In the two latter, the native shopkeepers sell imported European goods. In the Chitpore Road are found numerous storas of native-made furniture (after European models), of mahogany, toon wood (a red wood resembling mahogany), and teak-wood ; but inferior both in elegance and durability to that manu factured in the workshops of European tradesmen, and there fore sold at much lower prices. The natives who practise trades on their own account cannot compete, in finish and exactitude, with the well turned out articles of the European workshops, where natives also labour, but under the direction and guidance of the European head, whose better training, and habit of working by rule, correct their faults and defects. The butcher, poultry, fish, fruit, and vegetable markets are all designated bazaars, and are admirably supplied. The mutton of Bengal is equal to the best Highland mutton ; and the beef of the small Bengalee cow is sweet and delicate. Public Buildings. At the S.W. extremity of the city is a large space of verdant, level ground, about If m. in length, and about 1 in breadth, called the Maidan, bounded, E. by the Chowringhee Eoad, and W. by the Ilooghly. In this THE GOVERNMENT HOUSE AND TREASURY. CALCUTTA, from the old Courw.-Alter a Drawing by William I rii.sep, Esq. plain, about 1 m. from the city, and commanding the river, being separated from it only by the Strand Road and the Wet Ditch, stands Fort-William, one of the largest and most regu lar fortresses in India. It was constructed by Lord Clive, after the battle of Plassey (1757) ; and has cost altogether 2,000,000 sterling. It mounts 619 guns, from 12 to 32 Within its walls are store-rooms, ordnance-yards, powder-ma gazines, barracks, a church, &c. Around the E margin of the Maidan, are a series of walled tanks. At the S. extremity is the grand jail, and the race-ground, of a triangular form, with a course of about 1J in. in length. At the N. side, which is called the Esplanade, is the Government-house, tho place of the Governor-general, a magnificent pile, built by Marquis Wellesley. It has four wings, with a stupendous dome in the centre ; and is surrounded by a colonnade of Ionic pillars. In a line with the Government- house, and fronting the Esplanade, are splendid man sions, with handsome verandahs, supported by lofty columns. This is one of the healthiest localities in the city; it is also a favourite resort of the fashionable world, being the Hyde Park of the Indian capital. Another favourite promenade is the Scrand, where both Europeans and Indians go to enjoy the cool of the evening; and where, on such occasions, is to be seen an imposing display of handsome equipages, with crowds of ladies and gentlemen on horseback, all attended by a horse-keeper to each horse, called a Syce. After the Government-house, the principal edifices worth noticing are the townhall, supreme court, Government treasury, writers buildings, the Metcalfe Hall, the mint, where it is said, 500,000 coins can be struck off in 24 hours, and in which nearly 300 workmen, chiefly natives, are employed ; the Hindoo college, the Ma- drussa or Mahometan college, the General Assembly of the Established Church of Scotland s institution, the Free Church of Scotland s institution, the Bengal Club, the theatre, the medical college, the general hospital, the native hospital, the mechanics institute, the orphan- school, the ice-house, the Martiniere, the race-stand, the Asiatic Society s rooms, and the Ghaut, for burning the dead bodies of Hindoos. The monuments are, General Sir David Ochterlony s pillar, on the Maidan ; the statue of the Marquis of Wellesley, in an open Grecian building, in Tank Square ; Prinsep s ghaut, S. of the fort; the bronze statue of Lord William Bentinck, in the esplanade; and the bronze statue to Lord Auckland, on the S. of Government-house; the marble statues of the Marquis of Cornwallis, and others, within the townhall ; and to Bishop Heber, and others, in the new and old cathedrals; and the monument between the W. gate of Fort- William and the river, erected by Lord Elleuborough in commemoration of the victory gained at Gwalior, dur ing his govern ment. The religious edifices are, the new cathedral of St. Paul s, the old cathedral or St. John s Church, the old Mission Church, St. James s Church, St. Thomas s Church or Free- school Church, St. Peter s, with in the fort; all these belong to the Church of England. St. An drew s Kirk, con nected with the Established Church of Scotland ; the Free Kirk, built since the Disruption by voluntary contributions. Three R. Catholic churches, the Greek church, the Armenian church, two Baptist chapels, the Independent Union Chapel, the Hin- doostanee church, the Simleah church, in which a converted, educated, and episcopally ordained Hindoo officiates ; besides pounders; will hold, for the purposes of defence, 15,000 men; Mahometan mosques, Hindoo temples, and a Chinese temple, contains 80,000 stand of arms, and is usually garrisoned by one j The churches connected with the English Establishment are European, two native regiments, and a detachment of artillery. | under the Bishop of Culcatta, and Metropolitan of India: and CALCUTTA 559 CALCUTTA the archdeacon and clergy are all salaried chaplains of the Company, appointed by the Court of Directors. Calcutta was made a bishop s see in 1814; and on the creation of Madras and Bombay into bishoprics in 1833, the Bishop of Calcutta became Metropolitan of India, Avith jurisdiction over them, but subject himself to the Archbishop of Canterbury. The new cathedral is a splendid Gothic building, on the E. of the Maidan or plain. It was erected by voluntary subscription. The old cathedral was begun in 1784, and was built by volun tary subscriptions also, under the auspices of Warren Hastings, Governor-General. St. Andrew s Church was built, soon after the appointment of the first chaplain of the Church of Scotland, in 1814; and two ordained ministers of the Established Church of Scotland now officiate therein. They are, like the ministers of the sister establishment, salaried chaplains of the East India Company. The kirk-session in Calcutta, and that of each of the two other presidencies of Madras and Bombay, are subject to the eccle siastical jurisdiction of the presbytery of Edinburgh. These three kirk-sessions jointly elect and send one minister and one elder, as their representatives, to the General Assembly of the Established Church of Scotland. In 1834, a pres bytery was established at Calcutta by the General Assembly, with power to license and ordain native preachers in connec tion with their literary institution. The Greek church was built in 1781, and the Greeks declare the crown of England the protector of their church. The ministers are taken from Greece by permission of the Patriarch of Constantinople. The Armenian church was built in 1724, but has since been added to. The Armenians were invited, as far back as 1689, by Job Charnock, then Governor, to settle and trade in the Company s factories ; and a written agreement was executed between them, giving them exclusive privileges for trade, and the protection of the company. Educational Institutions. The educational institutions, not affording religious instruction, are the college of Fort- William, for the members of the Company s civil service ; the Hindoo college, the Madrussa or Mahometan college, and the Sanscrit college, all supported by Government, and managed through their committee of general instruction. The first two are intended to bestow (through the medium of English) instruction in the sciences and literature of the W. world, apart from any religious instruction. There are several schools, taught by natives, for instruction in English, and in the vernacular languages ; and a native female school has been lately established by Mr. Bethune, member of council. The educational institutions affording religious instruction are, Bishop s college, founded, in 1820, by the society for the propagation of the gospel in foreign parts, at the in stance of Bishop Middleton, the first bishop of Calcutta. It has been munificently supported by the Church of England at home. It has a principal and two professors, from the English universities, and is intended for the education of missionaries, catechists, and schoolmasters. The General Assembly s institution, established in the year 1829: its object is to spread, among the native youth, a know ledge of the evidences and doctrines of the Christian religion, by means of a sound and liberal education, under ordained missionaries of the Established Church of Scotland. It is divided into the normal school, and college department ; and a theological course is now added, to prepare native youths for becoming licensed ordained preachers, under the authority of the Established Church of Scotland. The Free Church institution was established, on the Disrup tion, on similar principles, and with similar objects, by the able missionaries, Dr. Duff and the Rev. Wm. Mackay, who raised the other institution to its high place in public estima tion. The high school, the free school, the parental academic institution, the Christian instruction society, the infant school society, several ladies societies for native female education, the Christian tract, and book society, and the Armenian philanthropic society, are other institutions of a religious character. St. Xavier s College, and Loretto House, are in stitutions established and conducted by Jesuits; and the latter is an establishment for the education of young ladies, con ducted by nuns of the Ursuline order, who came from England for that purpose. The Martimere, founded under the will of General Claude Martin, a Frenchman, who had been in the Company s servicej and died at Lucknow, was opened in 1836. The original be quest, with its accumulation of interest, amounted, in 1830, to nearly 100,000. The building cost about 23,000. It provides gratuitous board, &c., and a liberal education, to a certain number of both sexes, on the foundation, of indigent Christian children above the lowest class of the population, without respect to religious denominations. Boys, in better circumstances, are admitted as boarders and day scholars, to receive a superior education, at a fixed monthly fee. A course of religious instruction, and a form of prayers, were, it is worthy of remark, framed by the praiseworthy and united efforts of the Protestant bishop of Calcutta, Dr. Wilson ; the K. Catholic vicar-apostolic, Dr. St. Leger; and the senior minister of the Scotch Church, Dr. Charles, which are used by all in the school, while the children of each denomination receive private religious instruction from their respective pastors. The Benevolent Institutions are Government savings -bank, the general hospital, the native hospital, the fever hospital, the police hospital, the Howrah seamen s hospital, the leper asylum, dispensaries, public lunatic asylum, district charitable society, Dwarkanath Tagore s fund for blind poor, Bengal military orphan institution, European female orphan institu tion, the sailor s home, and some others. The Religious Societies are numerous. The most import ant are the Church missionary association, the diocesan com mittee of the society for the propagation of the gospel in foreign parts, the diocesan committee of the society for pro moting Christian knowledge, the auxiliary Bible society, the Church missionary association, Christian institution of the London missionary society, the seaman s friend, or Bethel society, and native Christian protection society. Tlie Literary and Scientific Institutions are the Asiatic society, the mechanics institution, the public library, the medical and physical society, and the native medical college. The last is a most admirable Government institution, for training the natives to become efficient and skilful surgeons, and medical practitioners. There the highest caste Hindoo, whose religion makes it pollution and sinful, may be seen handling the dead subject, and using the scalpel like a European, without being excluded by his countrymen from the privileges of his caste a wonderful victory gained over their religious prejudices ! There are also the agricultural and horticultural society ; and in connection with them, may be mentioned the beautiful and extensive botanic gardens of the company, a little S. of Calcutta, on the W. bank of the river. Commercial Companies and Corporations. The bank of Bengal, the bonded warehouse, and the Assam tea company, are corporations ; branches or agencies of the Agra, and united service bank, the oriental bank, and of the North western bank, are established in Calcutta. There are also the chamber of commerce, the trade association, indigo planter s association, the docking company, the steam-tug company, and several river navigation companies, marine, and life insurance offices, and provident societies. The Newspapers published in Calcutta are the Hurkaru, Englishman, Morning Chronicle, Eastern Star, and the Government Gazette; besides several native newspapers, in the vernacular languages. Courts of Law. Her Majesty s supreme court of judicature, at Fort- William, was established by charter, 13 Geo. III., in 1774; which vested in it criminal, civil, admiralty, and ecclesiastical jurisdiction, subject only to an appeal to Her Majesty in her privy council. It has a chief, and two puisne justices, appointed by the Crown, who must be barristers of a certain standing, at the English or Irish bar ; and either practising in that court, or in the courts at home. It has exclusive criminal jurisdiction (with jury trial), over all the I inhabitants of Calcutta who are placed under the protection of British law. The civil jurisdiction of the court is equally extensive ; but with this reservation, imposed by the statute 21 Geo. III., cap. 70; namely, that the court shall admin ister their own respective laws of inheritance, succession, and marriage, and of contract to Hindoos and Mahometans. The entire common law of England, and the statute law then existing, so far as applicable to the state and condi tion of the settlement, were transferred to Calcutta, by CALCUTTA 5GO CALCUTTA virtue of the charter of 13 Geo. I., in 172G; establishing the first legal tribunal, called the mayor s court. Acts of Parliament passed since, do not affect India, unless India be specially mentioned. Beyond the limits of Calcutta, both the criminal and civil jurisdiction of the supreme court, extends over all British-born subjects of Her Majesty, and their lawful descendants, residing within the presidency of Bengal, and the provinces from time to time annexed thereto ; and its civil jurisdiction extends also over native, and all other inhabitants of India, residing within these extended limits, who enter into written contracts with any British-born subject, and agreeing therein, that if dispute should arise, the matters between them should be determined by the supreme court. The practitioners in the supreme court are divided into two distinct branches, as in England, namely, bar risters, called advocates, and attorneys. An insolvent court, connected with the supreme court, was established in 1829. The present insolvent act is the English statute, 11 Viet., cap. 21 ; and, in respect of traders, it has provisions similar to those of the English bankrupt acts. A court for small causes (one of the judges in which is a Hindoo), exercises jurisdic tion, in some respects subject to, and confined within nearly the same local limits as the supreme court. The police courts in Calcutta are presided over by paid magistrates justices of the peace who exercise a criminal jurisdiction, auxiliary and subordinate to the criminal juris diction as exercised by Her Majesty s judges in the supreme court. The Calcutta courts of Sudiler Dewaney and Sudder Nizamut, being the chief civil and criminal courts of appeal from the East India Company s local courts, in the provinces of Bengal, established under Government regulations, have no original or other jurisdiction within Calcutta. The Board of Eevenue in Calcutta is invested with certain original and appellate judicial, as well as with ministerial functions, created and defined by the Government revenue regulations, in relation to the Company s revenue courts and officers, and the collection of the territorial revenue within Bengal. Factories. The factories in the city and neighbourhood using English machinery are the Government foundry at Cossipore, having beautiful machinery for casting and boring brass ordnance ; the Gloster mills, for making cotton twist ; the sugar manufactory at Seebpore, using vacuum pans and steam machinery; and several corn, flour, and oil mills, and a manufactory for steam boilers, with a foundry attached. The mint has powerful and efficient steam and other ma chinery, for all the purposes of working the metals, and coin ing money. Ship-building was carried on formerly to a con siderable extent, but is now nearly altogether extinct, owing, it is said, to the cheaper cost of construction in this country. The repairing of ships is, however, a considerable and lucra tive business still ; and the Government and private docks are extensive and commodious. Commerce. Calcutta is now the great emporium of the East, monopolizing the whole internal trade of Bengal, the nature and extent of which will be found at once fully and concisely exhibited in the following series of Tables: IMPORT. EXPORT. NJ. Tonnage. No. Tonnage. 1818-49 ..British vessels ....771 267,2-28 624 259,814 Foreign vessels... .110 42,321 112 44,568 Total 881 309,549 736 304,382 1349-50. ..British vessels 879 285,516 728 309,952 Foreign vessels ...143 64,122 148 59,869 Total IMPOSTS. H48-49 p . ( White cotton* ru \ Coloured cottons.. """ ( Silk and mixed Twist and Yarn ... 1849-50 ( White cottons u < Coloured cottons.. Oood9 (s,lk and mixed... Twist and Yarn.... ....1022 319,638 876 EXPORTS. .1,2-27060. ..Cotton piece goods,) OJOOQ . 245,457... country made } ** - 2 -> 37,352. ..Silk piece goods 314,339 . 652,355.. .Mixed piece goods. ... 30,619 1,601,00-2. ..Cotton piece goods, ) - BnQ . 275,333... country made \ 7 809 46,627. ..Silk piece goods 449903 . 798,742... Mixed piece goods 87,457 18JR-19 ...... 3-2,2^7 ...... 2.817,518 1819-50 ...... 35,093 ...... 3,591,4/0 1.74X.460 ...... 1,617,117 1.822.805J ..... 1,676,221 EXPORTS O/INDIGO. Or which to Oivat llritain, 1,977,<>77 94,882 .. 1514891 f 1,675,372 65,7251 1/>46V172 The Maund weighs 74 Ihs. 10 oz., IO-6OJ dr. avoirdupois. PnoonEss/or the fast FIVE YRARS of the EXTERNAL COMMERCE OF BENGAL. R,ipe. ls ,r_4 fi ( M... 52,817,596 ( T ...10,093,701 1846-17 | T ; ..1<U67>>08 1847-48 I 1040^,9 ( M... 42,750.1*1 1 T ...14,309,586 lS.lo.-50 ^ IMPORTS. Total Rupees. \ 62,911,297 = [ 64-,733,826 = 53,981,667 = 57,059,767 = 64,971,143 = 6,291,129 6,473,382 6,398,166 5,705,9/6 6,497,114 T !!;il)840|07 EXPORTS. Rupees. Tot.ii Rupees. 1845-46 \$-\ l< y$f} ...104,487,4:18 ^10,448,743 1846-t7{^;;; 9 igg| ...97,885,142 = 9,788,514 1847-48 JT 1 - 8 |S} ...86,375,893 = 8,637,589 IM W,j.::g5gjl{ ...08,545,097 - 9,854,509 m-o , n ( M... 105,399,069 SIS) -109,327,126 = 10,932,712 M stands for Merchandise; T stands for Treasure. DUTY LEVIED IN 1849-50, COMPARED WITH 1848-19. Duty on Goods imported on foreign bottoms 1848-49 178.841 1849-50 ... Duty on Salt imported on foreign bottoms 1848-49 266,748 1849-50 940,356 Duty on Bonded Salt imported on foreign bottoms...l848-49 24,125 1819-50 42,895 Total Rupees. 1818-9 469,715 46,971 1819-50 1,301,485 130,148 The principal articles of export are opium, indigo, sugar, saltpetre, rice, raw cotton, raw silk, piece goods, hides, lac, &c. The principal imports metals, piece goods, twist, and yarn, salt, betel-nut, books, glasswares, wines, woods, woollens, &c. The banks of the Hooghly, from the entrance of the river for many miles upwards, are low, flat, and covered with jungle. Ships cannot venture to make the river without taking on board a pilot from the pilot schooners of the Com pany stationed in the bay ; and shifting sands, with a rapid stream, meeting a contending tidal rise, make the navigation of the river uncertain and dangerous, and demand the pilot s constant watchfulness and care. Therefore, as early as 1669, the Company (then having a settlement at Hooghly only, 28 m. above Calcutta, and up to which large vessels could then sail), obtained permission from the Mogul Emperor to organize an establishment of pilots, and the present efficient body of Europeans forming the Bengal pilot service has been the result. Government and private steam tugs, now plying on the river, considerably lessen the risk of navigation, and lighten the labours of the pilots. The river, abreast of Cal cutta, is about the breadth of the Thames at Gravesend. Ships of 1400 tons burden can sail up and anchor off the city in mid-channel, in 6 or 7 fathoms water, or may lie at moorings within a few feet of the bank. Government has sanctioned the construction of a railway from Howrah, opposite Calcutta, to Pundoah, with a branch to the Kanigunge collieries, in the district of Burdwan, in all about 130 m. An electric telegraph has recently been formed between Calcutta and Diamond Harbour, about 50 m. down the Hooghly; and it is intended to carry it down to near the mouth of the river. Currency. The coins now coined and current in Calcutta and provinces are the Company s gold mohur, rupee, and pice. The first is equal in value to 16 rupees, which are the silver currency, and one rupee is about the value of 2s. sterling. Each rupee is equal to 16 annas (a nominal coin) ; and each anna is equal to four pice, the copper currency. The bank of Bengal CALCUTTA 5G1 CALCUTTA issues notes, which pass current for their respective amounts, and are received at the Government treasury and provisional collectorates as cash, in payment of Government revenue and other dues. Climate. The range of the thermometer in Novemher, December, January, and February, denominated the cold season, is from 50 to 75 Fall. ; the N.E. monsoon, then the prevailing wind, is bracing to the European constitution, re laxed by the preceding heats ; and at this season the appetite and strength improve. Balls, and gaiety by night, and boar- hunting with spears, jackal-hunting with hounds, and horse- racing with Arab, English, New S. Wales, and country-bred horses, are the amusements of the mornings during this season. European vegetables for the table are then grown, and are fully equal to those produced in more temperate climates. March brings with it the S.W. monsoon, and hot weather, which increases in temperature during the succeeding month; and in May the thermometer reaches 90-95 in the shade, 100-110 in the open air; and the hot atmosphere of that month striking the face, on going out of a house from which the external air has been from sunrise carefully excluded, has been aptly compared to the heat of a blast-furnace. This heat is, however, alleviated by occasional storms, called North westers, which are generally accompanied by thunder and lightning. In June the rainy season commences, much to the relief both of animal and vegetable nature, and continues to the end of September ; but there are very few days that have not some hours free from rain. The interval between the cessation of the rains, and the commencement of the cold weather, is unhealthy, from the moisture in the atmosphere, and a still powerful sun causing a rapid decay of vegetable matter. The climate has been, however, much ameliorated since the original establishment of the factory, by judicious draining, clearing away jungle in the suburbs, and by opening up roads and thoroughfares, and otherwise improving, from time to time, both the native and European quarters of the city. A permanent sanitary commission, with extensive powers, has been lately established by a local act. A stranger going to India, in order that he may be gradually acclimated, should so time his departure from England that he may arrive in the beginning of the cold weather. The sun of Bengal is singu larly prejudicial to Europeans, and at no season is it safe in Calcutta to be in the open air, when the sun is up, without some protection from its rays. Carriages, gigs with leather hoods, or palanquins carried by natives, by means of poles resting on their shoulders, are, therefore, absolutely necessary for Europeans. The proportion of deaths to the population is 3-13 per annum nearly; that of London is about 2-16; the difference being accounted for on the score of climate. Population. The population of Calcutta, according to the census of 1837, amounts to 229,714 ; but the apparent popula tion seems much greater, from the crowds of people which pour into the city from the suburbs, during the day, to earn a livelihood, and which, according to the same census, amount to the additional number of 177,000. The inhabitants of Calcutta may, for judicial purposes, be divided and classed into 1. British-born subjects and their legitimate descend ants, about 3138 in number. 2. Hindoos or Gentoos, of Bengal and of the Upper Provinces of Hindoostan, in number about 137,651. 3. Mussulmans or Mahometans, of Bengal and of the Upper Provinces of Hindoostan, in number about 58,744. 4. Other natives of Asia, neither Hindoos, Mahome tans, nor Christians such as Parsees, Chinese, Aracanese, Jews, Arabs, and Moguls. 5. Portuguese, Armenian, French, and other Christians of native or foreign extraction ; together with half-castes, or illegitimate children of British subjects by native mothers, and their offspring, numbering about 4746. TTie Society English is excellent, being composed of members of council, judges, and heads of departments, and members of offices and boards, employed in the administra tion of the affairs of the Company, civil, and military, and of other officers and servants of the East India Company of both services, and the bishop and clergy; then the judges of the supreme court, the barristers, attorneys, and merchants, who are all independent of the Company. Steam Communication with Great Britain. Besides the continuous communication kept up by fine passenger and other sailing vessels round the Cape of Good Hope, passengers and mails are carried once a month, to and from Calcutta, by what VOL I. is called the overland route, namely, Alexandria, Cairo, and Suez. The Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Com pany undertake the mail service, under contract with the Imperial Government ; and, at the same time, carry passengers in the large steamers employed by them, and which leave Southampton on the 20th, and Calcutta on the 8th, of every month. Two other companies are in the field! the one to e called the Eastern Steam Navigation Company, to occupy the same line as the Peninsular and Oriental, but their steamer ;o leave Plymouth on the 1st of the month for Alexandria, in correspondence with one from Calcutta ; the other, the Screw Steam Navigation Company, now carrying a mail to the Cape of Good Hope, intend extending that line to Calcutta. Early History. Job Charnock, the agent of the London company, the first English East India Company incorporated by charter of Queen Elizabeth, in 1600, was the founder of Calcutta. The first factory in Bengal of this powerful Com pany was established at Hooghly, 28 m. higher up the river, under a firman of the Mogul Emperor of Hindoostan, Shah Jehan, dated 1644. In the year 1686, the Company s then agent, Mr. Charnock, was with his council and factors driven out of it, by the Nawaub of Bengal, and on December 20, while sailing down the river, he was attracted by the shade afforded by a large tree in the village of Chuttanuttee (the present site of a part of Calcutta), and, accordingly, he and his people landed, and began to entrench themselves there. Finding it inexpedient to remain, they left in February 1687, and did not return until some time after the treaty with the Nawaub, of August 1687, was signed. In October 1688, they again took their departure, and went to Madras. Overtures, how ever, having been made to them by the Nawaub, by the orders of the Emperor, Mr. Charnock, with his council and factors, returned to Chuttanuttee o n August 24, 1690, when the Emperor gave them permission to form a commercial settle ment, but prohibited the erection of any fortifications. Here, then, the settlement was permanently fixed as the head quarters of the Company s commercial establishments in Bengal. One officer and thirty men came from Madras with Mr. Charnock, that being the military establishment originally allowed by the Emperor, to do honour to the principal agents. This period, therefore, may be considered the era of the foundation of Calcutta! Its founder, Charnock, died in 1692, and lies buried in the old cemetry, where St. John s Church, the old cathedral, was afterwards built. The settlement rapidly in creased, being situated on a navigable river, and therefore well adapted for being the emporium of the trade of Hindoostan. In 1695, a grant was made by the Nawaub of Bengal, con firmed by the Emperor Aurengzebe, of the village of Chut tanuttee, together with two other villages called Kalleeghatta, and Govindpore adjoining, reserving an annual rent to be paid by the Company of 1195 rupees. Walls of masonry, with bastions at the angles, were first raised in the same year by the permission of the Nawaub, as a defence to the factory against a rebel Zemindar, or land-holder of Burdwan. Thus originated the fortifications of Calcutta. The old fort, called Fort-William in honour of King Wil liam IV., was not begun to be built until the year 1699; and that fort, and the European part of the town, were erected on the site of the village of Kalleeghatta, and hence the name Calcutta. The fort occupied the site of the present import warehouse, extending to about the centre of Tank Square, then called Lall Bagh or the Park. Part of the present native portion of the city on the N. occxrpies Chutta nuttee, while Govindpore has disappeared, and in its place we now see a magnificent maidan or plain, on the S. of the city, in which is placed the new citadel, also called Fort-William, As late as the year 1717, a forest stood immediately in front of the town to the S. on what is now the esplanade. In 1720, however, considerable improvements were made in the public buildings, and roads were opened, to contribute to the salubrity of the city. At this period, and for many years after, the maidan or plain, and the site of the present citadel, as well as the space now occupied by Chowringhee, were a complete jungle, interspersed with the huts of natives, patches of rice cultivation, and grazing ground. Calcutta, however, has had vicissitudes of fortune. In the year 1757, the town extended about half a mile above and below the old fort, and about 600 yards inland, the houses of the English were in number about 70, and were detached in 71 CALDARO 562 CALEDONIA (NEW) separate enclosures. In the same year, Calcutta was cap tured and plundered by the Nawaub of Bengal, Sooraj-oo- dowlah, after a spirited defence; and many of our brave coun trymen, after the ignoble flight of the Governor, were taken prisoners, and died from suffocation in the Black Hole, where they had been placed for safe custody. Colonel Clive (after wards Lord Clive), with about 3000 men, assisted by Admiral Watson, with a fleet of three King s ships, were sent from Madras. They re captured Calcutta in February of the same year ; and Clive, a few days afterwards, attacked and routed the Nawaub in its vicinity. The latter then signed a treaty, dictated to him, by which, among other things, he agreed that the Company should fortify Calcutta in such manner as they should deem proper for its defence; and that money should be coined at Allenagur (Calcutta), in the same man ner as at Moorshedabad. In the year 1758, Meer Jaffier, Nawaub of Bengal, granted a sunnud to the Company for the free tenure of Calcutta. From this date, Calcutta became, virtually, the seat of an independent power. (Davidson s Trade and Travels in the East; Von Orlich s Travels in India; Orme s History of the War in Bengal ; Ive s Voyage; Bolst s Considerations on India Affairs ; Verelst s State of Bengal; Bengal and Agra Guide ; Charters, Acts of Parliament, and Parl. Reports; and Wilkinson s External Commerce of Bengal.) CALDARO, or KALTEKN, a tn. and com. Austria, Tyrol, prov. of, and 8 m. S.W. Botzen, near r. bank, Adige. It is tolerably well built, and has a square, a handsome parish church, townhall, hospital, and two convents; and a consider able trade in wine. Pop. 32 1 9. CALDAS [hot baths], several tus., vils., and medicinal baths, Spain, of which the most important are 1, Caldas dc Montbuy, a tn, Catalonia, prov. of, and 15 m. N. Barcelona. It has narrow and crooked streets, two squares, a church, endowed school, hospital, several fountains, and a cemetery. Manufactures : linen, woollen, and cotton fabrics, ribbons, serge, lace, and brandy. Pop. 2409. 2, Caldas de Reyes, a tn. Galicia, prov. of, and 12 m. N. Pontevedra; in a plain, at the confluence of the rivers ITumia and Bremana. It has a church, two schools, a townhall, prison, ancient tower, and feudal palace of the Marquis of Bendana. The bathing establishments are two in number, and much frequented. The inhabitants are engaged in weaving, tanning, tillage, and cattle-rearing. Pop. 1177. CALDAS, a tn. Brazil, in the S. of prov. Minas Geraes, near the sources of the Rio Pardo, an affluent of the Rio Grande, or Para. It has a church and primary school ; and its inhabitants are engaged in cattle rearing and in mining. Near it are warm sulphurous springs. Pop., tn. and dist., 2000. CALDAS DA RAINHA, a tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Estremadura, dist. Alemquer, on the slope of a hill, 58 m. N. Lisbon. It contains a church and an hospital, and has a con siderable annual fair, but deserves notice chiefly for its sulphur baths, which are much frequented. Pop. 1550. CALDBECK, par. Eng. Cumberland; 24,280 ac. P. 1553. CALDECOT, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 930 ac. Pop. 48. CALDECOTE, three pars. Eng. : 1, par. Cambridge; 833 ac. Pop. 117. 2, par. Huntingdon ; 740 ac. Pop. 52. 3, par. Warwick ; 820 ac. Pop. 93- CALDECOTT, two pars. Eng.: 1, par. Hertford; 310 ac. Pop. 41. 2, par. Rutland ; 1440 ac. Pop. 260. CALDER. 1, Two pars. Scot. Edinburgh: West and Mid Colder ; the former about 10 m. in length, and 5J m. in breadth ; the latter about 7 m. in length, and 3 m. in breadth. Pop. (W. Calder), 1666; (Mid-Calder), 1456. 2, Colder (East), a vil. Scotland, co. of, and 11 m. S.W. Edinburgh, par. Kirknewton. Pop. 419. 3, Calder (North and Sou/h), two small rivers, Scotland, co. Lanark, affluents of the Clyde, which they both join on the r. bank, the first 6 m., and the second 10 m. S.E. Glasgow. CALDER, two rivers, England. l,a river co. York, which rises on the E. borders of Lancashire, near Burnley ; pursues an E. course to Wakefield, then, proceeding N., joins the Aire, near the village of Castleford. It is navigable for about 30 m., is connected with a number of canals leading to Rochdale, Todmorden, Halifax, Goole, &c. ; and facilitates the transmission of goods across the kingdom, from Liverpool to Hull thus forming a junction between the E. and W. seas. On its banks are the important towns of Wakefield and Dews- bury ; and numerous iron and coal works, and stone quarries. 2, A much less important river, which rises near the same source, but flows in an opposite direction, and falls into the Kibble, in Lancashire. CALDICOT, par. Eng. Monmouth ; 1850 ac. Pop. 625. CALDONAZZO, a vil. and com. Austria, Tyrol, prov. of, and 11 m. S.E. Trent; 2m. S.W. Levico, near S.W. bank, Lake Caldonazzo. Silk is produced, and manufactured to some extent. Pop. 2588. CALDY, a small isl. Wales, Caermarthen Bay, W. side, on the coast of Pembrokeshire; lat. (S. point) 51 37 54" N.; Ion. 4 41 0" W. (R.) It is 1J m. long, and half a mile broad. Some part of it is cultivated, and a few families reside on it. The remains of an ancient priory are still visible. CALEDON, a market tn. Ireland, co. Tyrone, on the Blackwater, 11 m. S. by W. Dungannon. It is generally well built, has a handsome church, with a spire ; and chapels for Wesleyans and R. Catholics, a free school where 40 poor girls are clothed and educated, and several other schools and charities; and extensive flour-mills in the vicinity. Pop. 1046. CALEDONIA (NEW), atract of country, British N. Ame rica, W. of the Rocky Mountains ; included in the Hudson s Bay territory ; between lat. 48 and 57 N.; extending about 500 m. N. to S., and nearly 400 m. E. to W. It is mountainous, and abounds in lakes and rivers the largest of the latter called Frazer s River. The climate is unfavourable to agriculture ; but potatoes, turnips, wheat, and barley, are raised at some of the stations or posts, where also considerable numbers of cattle are reared ; and there are many fertile spots along the rivers. The thermometer sometimes falls 32 below zero ; but the seasons are generally milder than in the same parallel E. of the Rocky Mountains. The summer is never very hot ; although fires can be dispensed with from the end of May till the beginning of September. Snow lies on the ground from November till April or May, and on an average six ft. deep. This part of the country is inhabited by the two great nations of the N. the Takali or Carrier Indians, and he Atnahs or Shouswaps. The Carriers are of extremely filthy habits, and brutal propensities. They live chiefly on salmon, and prefer their meat putrid, burying it for months under ground, till it become a mass of corruption, when it is considered a delicacy. They are quick tempered, but neither sullen nor revengeful ; and are singularly susceptible of ridicule. The Hudson s Bay Company have nine posts or stations in this territory. CALEDONIA (NEW), an isl. Australasia, S. Pacific Ocean ; between lat. 20 and 22 30 S., and Ion. 164 5 and 167 E. ; length, N.W. to S.E., about 200 m. ; breadth, 30 m. It is surrounded on all sides by coral reefs, connecting nume rous islets, rocks, and banks of sand rendering the naviga tion so intricate and dangerous, that the island can be tpproached by two openings only. Vessels may anchor securely at Port Balade, on the N.E., and at Port St. Vincent, on the S.W. ; the latter having a natural harbour, with anchorage in 10 or 12 fathoms, perfectly secure. Between the small island of Botany and the S. end of New Caledonia, and ithin the coral reefs, a deep, wide ship channel was discovered by Capt. Woodin in 1849, and named by him Woodin s Channel. There are several bays in it, where ships may anchor close to the beach in 15 fathoms or less. Water also is abundant. In physical aspect, the island greatly resembles New S. Wales, consisting, in the interior, of barren rocky mountains, said to rise to the height of 8000 ft., interspersed with fertile valleys ; many of the productions are also similar; but, on the whole, it is less fertile than most other islands of the Pacific. The principal rocks are granite, quartz, mica, steatite, with specular iron, and green amphibole. The sugar cane and banana, cocoa-nut palm, bread-fruit tree, taro, and mangoes, are cultivated ; and sandal-wood is found to some extent ; the inhabitants live mostly on yams and fish. Trepang is fished on the coast. The natives are of a deep black, with curly hair, robust, active, and well-made. Some tribes of them are known to be courteous and friendly to strangers, while others are treacherous, merciless, and cruel man-eaters. In 1849, the station at Balade was attacked, and some of the Europeans killed ; and the same year, the Captain and cook of the ship Mary were murdered, cooked, and eaten. They speak a language distinct from that of the neighbouring islands. New Caledonia was discovered by Cook, in 1774, and is called Balade by the natives. (Rienzi,0ceanie; Naut. Mag., 1850.) CALEDONIAN CANAL 5G3 CALIFORNIA (UPPER OR NEW) CALEDONIAN CANAL. See SCOTLAND. CALELLA, a maritime tn. Spain, Catalonia, prov. of, and 30 m. N.E. Barcelona, at the foot of a small hill called Roser Its streets are clean and spacious ; and it has two squares, a church, chapel, college, school, townhall, prison, hospital, dock for building vessels, and a cemetery. Manu factures : linen and cotton fabrics, blonde lace, green paint, and ropes. Distilling brandy, fish-curing, ship and boat building, and tillage, are carried on. Pop. 3035. CALENZANA, a tn. France, isl. Corsica, 5 m. S.E. Calvi. It stands in a fine valley, open to the sea-breeze, and contains a large and handsome church. A good red wine is produced in the neighbourhood. Pop. 2437. CALERA, a vil. Spain, New Castile, prov. Toledo, 8 m. S.W. Talavera, near 1. bank, Tagus. It has two squares, a church, townhall, prison, two schools, a cemetery ; and trade in cattle, grain, and wine. Pop. 2598. CALESTANO, a tn. and com. Italy, duchy of, and 20 m. S.S.W. Parma, r. bank, Baganza, at the base of Mount Fragno. It has a church, medical seminary, and primary school ; and in the vicinity are quarries of fine marble. Four annual fairs are held. Pop. 2664. CALF OF MAN, an islet. See MAN (!SLE OF). CALI, a tn. New Granada, 70 m. N. by E. Popayan ; lat. 3" 25 N. ; Ion. 76 30 W. It lies on a W. declivity of the Andes, near the Cauca ; has straight streets, houses of brick, and of whitened earth, two elegant churches, several deserted convents, and one still in use. The inhabitants are wealthy, and chiefly engaged in the transit trade, from the interior to the Pacific. Pop. 4000. CALIADEH, a vil. Hindoostan, prov. Malwa, on the Sipra, 5 m. N. Oojein ; with a lofty, heavy, whimsical struc ture, entirely devoid of architectural attractions, called a water-palace, built on an insular eminence in the Sipra. CALIANO, a vil. Austria, Tyrol, 10 m. S. Trent, 1. bank Adige. In 1487 the Venetians were here defeated by the Archduke Siegmund, of Austria. CALICE DI VARA, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. Pisa. 11 m. S. Pontremoli, 1. bank, Usurana, an affluent of the Vara, 4 m. S.W. from its confluence with the Magra. It is com manded by a castle, and has a large parish church, and some oil-mills. The neighbourhood is mountainous, and clothed with forests of chestnut, vine, and olive plantations. The low grounds in the vicinity of the river are rich, and yield grain and pasturage for cattle. Pop. 2959. CALICOULAN, a tn. Hindoostan, prov. Travancore, 116 m. N. Cape Comorin; lat. 9 11 N.; Ion. 76 33 E. CALICUT, a maritime tn. and dist. Hindoostan, prov r Malabar. The town, formerly the cap. of the prov., is 43 m. S.E. Tellicherry, and 100 m. S.W. Seringapatam ; lat. 11 15 12" N. ; Ion. 75 45 30" E. (R.) It is of considerable extent, but a large portion of it consists of mere huts, the remainder of houses, constructed of teak-wood, or of sun baked bricks there being no buildings of stone. The manu facture of cotton goods was formerly carried on here to a great extent, and furnished a considerable supply to Europe ; but this description of goods is now mostly imported. The exports consist principally of cocoa-nuts, betel-nuts, pepper, ginger, turmeric, teak-wood, sandal-wood, cardamoms, and wax. The anchorage for large ships in the harbour is in five or six fathoms. Calicut was the first Indian port visited by Vasco de Gama, in 1498. The inhabitants are mostly of Arab descent, and profess Mahometanism. The district extends along the sea-coast, and produces great quantities of pepper. CALIFORNIA (GULP OF) [Mar Vermeja, Red Sea, Sea of Cortez], a gulf of the Pacific Ocean, W. coast, N. America, formed between the peninsula of Old California on the W., and the Mexican states of Sonora and Sinaloa on the E. It lies between lat. 23 and 32 30 N., and is upwards of 700 m. long, with a breadth varying from 150 m. near its entrance, to 45 m. near its centre ; beyond which it again expands to 120 m. Its coast is irregular, forming on both sides numerous small bays or gulfs. Numerous islands are scattered over its surface the largest being Angel de la Guardia, Tiburon, Carmen, Ceraloo or San Catalina, and San Jose. Its chief affluent is the Rio Colorado, falling in at the head of the gulf; and two small streams pour into it from the E. side. This gulf was formerly celebrated for the pearl fisheries of the Californian coast, which employed 800 divers. They are now much fallen off. CALIFORNIA, UPPER or NEW [Spanish, Alta- Califor nia, or Nueva- California"} , a large region, N. America, for merly a part of the Mexican Confederation, but now included in the possessions of the United States. When under Mexican sway, it extended from lat. 32 to 42 N. ; Ion. 106 to 124 10 W. ; and was bounded, N. by Oregon, E. the Rocky Moun tains, S. the Mexican states of Sonora and Old California, and W. the Pacific Ocean; area estimated at 500,000 sq. m. Since coming into the possession of the United States, the E. portion of this region, N. of lat. 37 N., and E. of the Sierra Nevada, has been constituted the Mormon territory of Utah, sometimes also named Deseret ; and the portion S. of lat. 37 N., and E. of the river Colorado, has been added to the state of New Mexico, also acquired from the Mexican Confedera tion ; and the sea-board portion, W. of the sierra Nevada, in the N., and of the river Colorado, in the S., now forms the state of California. California or Upper California, as thus limited, includes the region between the Pacific Ocean on the W., Oregon on the N. (lat. 42 N.), and a line running thence direct S., in Ion. 120 W. to lat. 39 N., and thence S.E. to the Rio Colorado, where it intersects lat. 35 N., and thence along that river to the boundary between Mexico and the U. States; area, 188,981 sq. m. The coast is generally rugged and precipitous, and presents few good harbours, for its extent, above 9 of lat. ; the finest, commencing at the S. and going N., are San Diego, San Pedro, Monterey, and San Francisco (which see) ; the last, entered by an inlet 1 m. wide, is the most spacious and important in the state. On the S. part of the coast are a few islands Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, San Catalina, San Clementi or San Salvador, varying from 20 m. to 25 m. long, and San Nicolas, Santa Barbara, San Juan, San Miguel, merely islets. California is divided into two districts of unequal size, and of markedly different character, by the sierra Nevada, a ridge of mountains which forms the E. limit of the N. portion of the country, but in the S. traverses it almost centrally. The district E. of this range is little known, but, generally speak ing, it may be described as sandy, sterile, destitute of forest trees, and even of vegetation, except along the banks of the streams, which are few and unimportant ; it measures about 500 m. in extreme length, by about 250 m. in extreme breadth. In the N., however, a small portion of this district is well watered, and covered by offsets of the sierra Nevada. The W. district consists of one great, and several smaller valleys, all nearly parallel to the coast, and to each other ; with many minor transverse valleys, formed by spurs of the chief mountain ranges It is bounded on the E. throughout by the sierra Nevada, or snowy range, which, proceeding from Oregon, takes a direction generally S., though some what tortuous, parallel to, and about 150 m. from the coast ; unites, in lat. 34 30 N., with a lower and nearly parallel range to the W., called the coast range ; both afterwards constituting one chain, which lowers down, and forms the peninsula of Old California. In the sierra Nevada are vol canic peaks, some of which are said to be active, rising far above the limits of perpetual snow, to the height of 14,000 ft. and 17,000 ft. ; and its formation, to a considerable extent, is granitic 5 though trap and other igneous rocks occupy much of the upper and lower valley of the Sacramento, as well as a large extent of all the N. part of the country. The coast range a comparatively low ridge of heights originates near the Oregon frontier, takes a S. direction, parallel to, and at an average distance of 50 m. W. from tho sierra Nevada, with which it unites, as above noted, in lat. 34 30 N. ; it is formed chiefly of sandstone, with protru sions of trachyte, and other igneous rocks. Between these two ranges lies the great valley of the Sacramento and Joa- quim or Tulares, 500 m. long, and shut in at the N. end by spurs of the Cascade mountains. W. of the coast range are other lower ranges of hills, also generally parallel to the coast, forming valleys, each named from the stream which waters it Buenaventura, San Jose, San Sebastian, Pichoinas, &c. The N. part of the great valley between the two prin cipal ranges is watered by the Sacramento, which flows S., receiving numerous affluents from the sierra Nevada, but none from the coast range ; and near the centre, along with the San Joaquim, bursts through the coast range, and falls CALIFORNIA (UppEit OR NEW) 56-1 CALIFORNIA (UiTEit OR NEW) into the bay of San Francisco, at that part of it called the [ bay of Suisoon. It varies in width from 200 to 300 yards, | and is navigable inland for a considerable distance ; steamers at all seasons reaching the mouth of the Butte, about 80 in. direct distance. Its principal tributaries are the Americanos, Feather or 1 lumas, Butte, Yuba, Bear, Pine, Deer, Antelope, Quesnells, and Sycomore rivers. The S. part of the valley j is watered by the San Joaquim, which rises in the sierra | Nevada, flows N., and falls with the Sacramento, as already stated, into the bay of San Francisco ; it is navigable, but how far inland is not known. From the head of the valley it receives the waters of the Lakes Tule, Tulares or Chinlache, and, like the Sacramento, numerous tributaries from the sierra Nevad.i, and none from the coast range. Its principal affluents, some of which are also navigable to a certain extent, are the Merced, Toualumnes, Stanislaus, Calaveros, Muke- lemnes, and Cosemnes. The only other note-worthy stream is the Buenaventura, flowing N. through a valley W, of the coast range, and falling into Monterey Bay. Lake Tule, already named, is the only one of any considerable extent, being about 75 m. long, by about 20 m. broad. It lies near the S. extremity of the great valley, receives numerous streams from the sierra Nevada, and some also from the coast range ; it is surrounded by lowlands, rankly overgrown with bulrushes. There are also a few small lakes near the course of the Sacramento. Gold, and other Minerals. From the formation of the country, granite, trap, and sandstone must be plentiful ; excel lent slate abounds in the valley of the San Joaquim; copper exists near San Luis Obispo, about 125 m. S. Monterey; lead of pure quality, and quicksilver, abound in the same locality ; lead and iron, both of them of excellent quality, have been found on the slopes of the sierra Nevada, N. of San Francisco; near San Jose is a quicksilver mine, reputed to be one of the richest in the world; and silver has been found in various quarters. No coal has been discovered, nor is likely to be so ; the geological formation of the country rendering such an event highly improbable. Gold, however, is so plentiful, that little attention has hitherto been paid to all baser mine rals. Indeed, the mines of Peru, Mexico, and the Ural mountains, have all been thrown into the shade by the quan tities of gold found in this favoured region, which, until the later discovery of gold in Australia, justly claimed to be the richest auriferous region in the world. The gold is found in various slates, containing veins of quart/, and in hypogene or primary rocks, that have been protruded through them, in the sierra Nevada, both N. and S. of the junction of the coast range, and in the alluvial deposit of the rivers. On the coast, also, near the Oregon frontier, there has been dis covered what is called a Gold Bluff; on the beach, at its base, the gold is found mixed with black sand, supposed to have been washed down from the bold precipitous bluff by the tremendous swell of the ocean that constantly exists here. The gold-bearing sands are said to stretch along the shore for 6 m. ; but the heavy sea will prevent washing on the spot. Specimens of the black sand, brought to San Francisco, yielded $3 14 cents (12s. Id.} to the Ib. The first source, however, above indicated the living rock must be the per manent source of supply; for it is in the nature of auriferous alluvial deposits to be ultimately exhausted a fact of which plenty of evidence is afforded by the gold-washings of Brazil. The want of capital and machinery prevented, for a time, mining operations, properly so called, from being commenced. These wants having now, however, to a considerable extent been supplied, several mining companies have been estab lished; and much gold is now obtained from quartz, which, after being excavated by blasting or otherwise, is crushed in a mill, and the gold separated either by washing or by amal gamation with mercury. The efforts, however, of individual seekers, or small associations destitute of capital, have mainly been directed to the schistous rocks laid bare in ravines by water, and to the alluvial deposits. In the former, gold is often found in considerable masses, imbedded between the layers of the strata, whence it is scooped out by means of a strong knife, or displaced by a crow-bar, or other lever. The seeker in such localities may at times become speedily rich, by finding a few large pieces; but, generally speaking, the supply from such a source is more precarious than from the alluvial deposits. These deposits are found in the great val ley along the rivers Sacramento, Joaquim, and their affluents from the sierra Nevada; on the river Klamath and its tribu taries on the Oregon frontier, and probably on many others. They consist of silt, clay, and gravel or shingle; the last often containing numerous large stones, rendering the labour of removing them to get at the clay and small detritus very great. To what extent the great valley is pervaded by the precious metal, is not yet known; but at all events, gold is probably to be found in greater or smaller quantity in all the lower valley of the Sacramento, and as far S. as the head waters of the San Joaquim a total stretch of nearly 300 in. The metal is found in the form of dust, or small grains, in smaller quantity in the surface deposits on the banks, or in the beds of the streams; and in greater abundance in the lower and firmer deposits, and in greatest abundance (at least on the San Joaquim) next the slate on which these deposits frequently rest ; the gold, from its weight, apparently always seeking the lowest stratum. The metal is obtained by wash ing the alluvium, till all the earthy matter is floated off, when the gold is found left at the bottom of the vessel. The seekers stand in the water washing the deposit lifted from the bed of the stream, or they dig pits on the river edge, on a hill slope, or in some other locality deemed suitable, the soil and gravel thrown out requiring afterwards to bo washed. These pits, also called dry diggings, are generally found to increase in value the deeper they are dug, until the slate or rock is reached, on the surface of which the metal is often found in surprising quantity. The digger s labour, however, is often expended in vain, and he frequently finds it difficult to earn as much as will suffice for his daily sustenance. The total amount of gold shipped at San Francisco, September 1, 1849, to December 13, 1850, was $31,060,175, or 6,212,035; be sides, probably, 4,000,000 brought away by passengers. The total amount that has left California, from June 1848, when the gold was discovered, to the end of 1850, may be roughly estimated at 12,000,000. It may not be out of place to add here some instances of extraordinary fortune, on the part of individuals, as reported in the current newspapers of the day. Between the middle and W. forks of Yuba river, a lump of quartz and gold was found, weighing 30 Ibs., con taining, by estimate, 23 Ibs. of pure gold; on one of the affluents of the Joaquim, a block weighing 93 Ibs. was dis covered, one-half of which was stated to be pure metal ; and on another affluent, the Mercedes, a person found a lump of nearly pure metal, weighing 83 Ibs. ; but the largest piece as yet obtained was in the mines of the Mariposa, an affluent of the Joaquim a lump of quartz weighing 700 Ibs., and rich in gold. Gold seeking can only be carried on with advantage during the dry season. The streams are so large, and the ground so saturated with water, during the wet and winter season, that it is next to impossible to do any work. Even after the wet season is past, a time must elapse before operations are seriously commenced in the bed of the larger streams ; for the rivers being snow-fed, increase with the advance of spring, in place of diminishing; consequently, it is not till about June that the real labour of washing can be properly carried on in such places. The result of this state of matters is, that those who have not succeeded well during summer, are subject to great privations from poverty during winter ; no doubt greatly aggravating disease, contracted from exposure and excessive labour. The size of the rivers, however, is no obstacle to the progress of the mining or dry diggings, both requiring a good supply of water to wash the crushed rock of the one, and the excavated heaps of the other. To those so engaged, therefore, the want of rain in winter, which some times occurs, causing many of the rivulets on which they depend for water to dry up, is as great a calamity as too much rain is to those occupied in the river washings ; and the rise of the streams from the melting of the snows which relieves the former, still hinders the work of the latter. Gold searchers often unite in bands, to accomplish a definite object, and then separate. Thus they will form a company in the morning, to wash together all day, and separate again in the evening ; or they will unite to excavate a pit in a given locality, and as soon as it is wrought out, divide the proceeds, and separate. It being obviously impossible to search the beds of the larger streams by ordinary methods, dredging has been tried ; and steam vessels are now occupied on the Yuba, working dredg- i ing machines with considerable success. CALIFORNIA (UPPER OK NEW) 565 CALIFORNIA (UPPER OR NEW) Climate. California, being intersected by the isothermal line of 60, has the same mean annual temperature as the N. of Spain and the centre of Italy, and may, generally speaking, be esteemed genial and mild ; and the year may be divided into a dry and a wet season there being no frost, and rarely snow, excepting on the mountains. The wet season begins in November, and continues to the middle of February or the beginning of March, during which time a considerable quan tity of rain usually falls, though in some years this season belies its name, and continues perfectly dry, to the great detriment both of agriculturists and gold seekers. No rain falls during the rest of the year. Though the climate is, generally speaking, mild, still, in many places the changes of temperature are sudden and great; and though in the great valley during the summer fogs are unknown, yet on the coast they are frequent. At San Francisco, the temperature in summer sometimes reaches 110, and in the rainy season it seldom falls below 40 ; the maximum and minimum differ as much as 30 in 24 hours, and a scorching hot day is often followed by a night of bitter cold. The heat in the valleys is frequently oppressive, not being tempered by the sea-breezes ; but, on the other hand, sudden changes, and great extremes of temperature, do not, in these localities, appear to be so frequent or violent as on the coast. On the lower slopes of the sierra Nevada the climate is said to be that of constant spring. Vegetation. -N. of lat. 34 30 N. the slopes and valleys of the coast range, the district W. of it to the sea, the valley of the Sacramento where not covered with sand or gravel, and the E. side of the valley of the San Joaquim, will yield heavy crops of wheat and oats ; indeed, the greater part of these dis tricts is annually covered with wild oats. The soil, in one place or another, is also suitable for maize and the other cereals, and for the tuberous plants and legumes usually cultivated in temperate climates. The vegetables grown in the U. States attain here an extraordinary size. The districts above referred to are covered with excellent herbage, on which numerous flocks of wild cattle, deer, &c., depasture ; but the W. side of the valley of the San Joaquim having no permanent water courses, and probably being chiefly composed of sand washed down from the coast range, is destitute of herbage, though covered with a profusion of beautiful flowers of the most varied hues, among which, however, blue is the most prevalent. So destitute of herbage is this district, that the cattle of emigrants employed in transporting their effects to the gold districts of the valley, have frequently been on the point of starvation, while treading down a vigorous vegetation of which they re fused to partake. That part of the valley near lake Tule or Tulares is marshy, and covered with a thick growth of a kind of gigantic bulrush, frequently 15 ft. high, called tule, whence the lake is named. The olives of California are equal to those of Andalusia, and the wine is similar to that of the Canary Islands ; indeed, the fruits are most varied, including apples, pears, plums, figs, oranges, peaches, pomegranates, plantains, bananas, and cocoa-nuts ; the indigo plant also, and the sugar-cane and tobacco, yield abundant returns. The lower parts of the country are interspersed with isolated trees of various kinds. Along the foot of the sierra Nevada are open groves, composed chiefly of white oak (Quercus lon- giglanda, Torr. and Frem.) 5 to 6 ft. in diameter, and 60 to 80 ft. high. Higher up are evergreen oaks, cypresses, cedars, and lofty pines, among which Pinus Lambertiana attains a height of upwards of 200 ft., with a circumference of 57 ft. ; its timber is soft, white, and light, and its turpentine of pure amber colour; its cones are 16 inches long, and the seeds are eaten roasted or pounded into cakes. The lofty plateaux, cha racteristic of this range, from which the bare volcanic peaks rise like pyramids, are generally densely covered with timber. From the uncertainty of the rains, and the great droughts of summer, agriculture must always, in California, depend much upon irrigation. Zoology. Bears, wolves, foxes, wild-cats, otters, beavers, antelopes, hares, and rabbits, abound. Large herds of wild cattle, horses, deers, and elks, depasture on the grassy slopes and valleys. The oxen are excellent, and the horses small, delicately formed, but capable of long-continued exertion without food or water. Mules, goats, sheep, and swine, are plentiful. The mutton is good, but the wool inferior. Poultry thrive well. Birds generally are scarce ; the most common are the turkey, buzzard, quail, and woodpecker ; partridges, geese, ducks, and cranes, are said to be numerous. Snakes, among which the rattlesnake, and lizards of various kinds scorpions, tarentulas, &c., are met with; and mosquitoes are innumerable. Towns, Commerce, &c. The principal town and port, but not the capital, is San Francisco, situated on a spit of land at the entrance to the bay of its name. The seat of the legisla ture, and residence of the governor, is Vallejo, or Vallego, a new city on the N. shore of the bay of San Francisco, between the bays of San Pablo and Suisoon. San Jose, a small town about 45 m. S.W. San Francisco, was the old capital. Among the older towns, Monterey, San Diego, Los Angelos, &c., from being unimportant places, have become large cities. Of the more recently-founded places may be named, Napa, Sonoma, and Benicia, on the N. shore of the bay of San Pablo, and Martinez on its S. shore ; New York of the Pacific, Butte, Boston, Sutter, Sacramento, Fremont, Vernon, Yub;i, Nico- laus, &c., on the Sacramento river, and its affluents; and Empire city, Stockton, Stanislas, &c., on the Joaquim and its tributaries. All the recently-formed towns are built chiefly of wood, though erections of brick and stone are becoming more common ; and houses are run up so rapidly, that whole new streets are formed in a few days. Many so-called towns, erected in the vicinity of the diggings, are merely collections of tents. After the discovery of the gold, so many went in search of it, and the produce was so great, that labour and property in the towns arose to enormous prices. Servants were paid $100 to $200 (20 to 40) per month; car-men $6000 (1200) a-year ; a rifle cost 20 ; and clasp and bowie knives 6 to 10; a house, the size of a common English domicile, was rented to the Miners Bank at $75,000 (15,000) ; a shed, 15 ft. by 20, occupied by gamblers, gave 8000 ; but the influx of labour, and more correct ideas of the income from the gold districts, have now brought prices to a more natural level. Manufactured goods, having soon arrived in great plenty, were, at an early period, comparatively cheap ; so much so, indeed, that at one time it was more economical to purchase new shirts than to pay for the old ones being washed. Regarding the commerce of the country, little can yet be said. In former times hides and cattle were exported, and will likely be so again. At present gold is almost the only article of export (see p. 564) , in return for manufactured goods, implements of various kinds, provisions, liquors, &c. Population. The Spanish Californians, now comparatively a small section of the community, have large, strong frames, strong muscles, and a ruddy fresh complexion. The Indian population, now few and scattered, seems at one time to have been great, as evidenced by the remains of numerous villages in the great valley. The Indians are seldom more than 5 ft. high, of a dark copper colour, with low forehead, black eyes, thick lips, and rough straight hair. They are indolent, igno rant, and cowardly ; though prone enough to murder when they can do so with safety. The main part of the population is Anglo-Saxon, and chiefly from the U. States, though num bers are also from Great Britain and Ireland. Almost every nation has its representative here ; and the population forms a curious mixture of high born and low born, learned and ignorant, in which those accustomed to be highest are some times found to be lowest. Lawyers, ex-professors, physicians, &c., dig cellars, drive ox teams, saw wood, and carry luggage ; while those who have been private soldiers, sailors, cooks, and day-labourers, are at the head of profitable establishments, and often assist in the minor details of government. In 1802, Humboldt estimated the population of Upper California at 16,862 ; in 1846-47, Byrant estimated it at 25,000; and at present (1851), it is estimated at 300,000; of which, 60,000 are in the town of San Francisco. History. Upper California was discovered by the Spa niards ; and its shores were examined by Cabrillo in 1542 ; and in 1578, it was visited by Sir F. Drake, who gave it the name of New Albion. In 1602, Sebastian Visconio touched at Monterey, and proclaimed the neighbouring country to be Spanish territory. The Jesuit mission of San Diego, the first settlement in Upper California, was established in 1769, and before 1803, 18 others had been added, each with its tribe of Indians attached to it, and undar its protection. In 1833, these missions were secularized and declared public pro- CALIFORNIA (LOWER OR OLD) CALIFORNIA (LOWER oil OLD) perty by the Mexican government; and in 1845, those of San Juan, Carmel, San Francisco, Solano, and San Juan Capis- tiano, were disposed of by public sale; the remainder being subsequently transferred to the U. States. The country suf fered several times from revolution, and the inhabitants more than once declared themselves independent, but as often re joined the confederation. The authority of Mexico over it was very loose for the last 10 or 12 years of its connection with that country. In May 1848, Upper California was ceded by Mexico to the U. States, and about a month afterwards the discovery was made which has in such a remarkable manner altered its fortunes. Gold was previously known well enough to exist in the country, and had, indeed, been wrought to a certain extent by the Mexicans. Hakluyt, who accompanied Drake, and published in 1589, says, There is no part of the earth here to be taken up wherein there is not a reasonable quantitie of gold and sili-er. Still, not until June, 1848, did the auriferous deposits of California attract general attention, when they were brought before the world, as one may almost say by accident, by some settlers, who discovered shining particles, and some heavier pieces of yellow metal, in the mud in a mill-course near Coloma, on the Americanos or American Fork, an affluent of the Sacramento. Such a discovery could not be long concealed; the news spread, every other occupation was abandoned, and all hastened to the dig gings, and wages, provisions, and property of various kinds, rose to an enormous price. In course of the following year, multitudes began to arrive from all quarters, Mexico, Peru, Chili, the Sandwich Islands, China, all parts of Europe and the U. States. In 18 months, 100,000 arrived from the U. States alone ; there was almost a continuous line of emi grants across the Eoeky Mountains, the Great Desert, and the sierra Nevada, by which route many thousands arrived, accompanied by immense waggons, drawn by bullocks. Great privations were endured in crossing these trackless regions, from want of food and water for man and beast. Many emi grants and their cattle perished on the way, from hunger and fatigue. Immense numbers likewise arrived by the Isthmus of Panama, and numbers made a voyage of 17,000 m. round Cape Horn. Such a great influx of people was too much for existing means of government ; robbery and murder became frequent ; lynch-law was in many places set up, and the cul prit, after being tried and condemned by a jury selected on the spot, was hung on the nearest tree. In this dilemma the U. States emigrants decided on forming themselves into a state. Representatives, chosen from all parts of the country, met in June 1849, and adopted a constitution similar to that of New York, guaranteeing to citizens the right of trial by jury ; free exercise of religious worship ; the privilege of the writ of habeas corpus; protection from excessive fines or cruel punishments ; exemption from arrest on crime, except on pre sentment or indictment ; freedom of speech ; right of petition ; prohibition of a standing army in time of peace ; representa tion according to population ; abolition of imprisonment for debt ; protection of rights of property, &c. Since this event took place, and in consequence of the measures subsequently adopted, life and property have become much more secure than they were formerly ; though the administration of the law, doubtless from defective organization, being somewhat tardy, it is still not uncommon for the populace to visit great culprits with condign punishment; in the execution of which they have generally exhibited a calmness and dignity of manner strangely at variance with the irregularity of the transaction, and forming certainly not the least remarkable feature in Californian history, and of Californian society. California was admitted as a state of the Union in 1850. (Lieut.-Col. Fremont s Report Lieut. Emeroy s Narrative ; Farnham s Life, Travels^ and Adventures in California; Commissioner King s Report, &c.) CALIFORNIA (LOWER or OLD) [Spanish, Baja or Vieja California], a state or dep. of the Mexican Confederation, situated on the W. coast of N. America, and formed of a pen insula, lying N.W. to S.E., about 750 m. long, by 30 to 1 20 m. broad ; and extending from Cape San Lucas, its most S. point; lat. 22 52 N. ; Ion. 109 53 W. (R.), to lat. 32 30 N. ; bounded, N. by Upper or New California, E. by the Gulf of California, and S. and W. by the Pacific Ocean. The peninsula is volcanic, and is traversed throughout its whole length by a continuation of the sierra Nevada, 1000 to nearly 5000 ft. high, the culminating peak, Cerro dc la Giganta, being 4900 ft. ; it has two extinct volcanoes, hot springs of water and bitumen ; much of it is heated by subterranean fires, and earthquakes are frequent. This mountain- range is almost bare of verdure, being only sprinkled here and there with a cluster of briars, small shrubs, or dwarf trees. Along the mountain-foot the ground is sandy or stony, and covered with cylindrical cactuses of extraordinary height. Among the ridges and protected hollows, are a few spots with soil, formed generally of de composed lava. Springs of water, few in number, are ordi narily found on bare rock ; for water and soil are seldom met with at the same place. Where, however, this hap pens to be the case, the fertility is immense. The want of water is the bane of Lower California. Only two streams fall from its mountains into the Gulf of California, both near the middle of the peninsula, and only three into the Pacific ; and none of them are large. In the interior are several copious springs, sending forth abundant streams, which un fortunately run along a rocky course, and are absorbed ultimately in the porous arid soil, or are lost in subterranean channels. For about 80 m. N. from Cape San Lucas, the air is mild, being tempered by the sea-breeze ; from this section N. to Loretto, lat. 26 16 N., the heat is excessive; but thence N. the air is cooler. The temperature of summer, on the coast of the Pacific, ranges from 58 to 71; the sky is peculiarly clear, of a deep blue, and perfectly cloudless, ex cepting sometimes at sunset, when streaks of the most beau tiful shades of violet, purple, and green appear. In winter, the rains are severe, but of short duration, and accompanied by tremendous tornadoes of wind, sweeping the soil from every exposed position into the sea, and causing the tiller of the ground to seek a new place in which to ply his vocation. During the rains, the thermometer falls as low as 50. The variety of climate, however, is great ; for when near Cape San Lucas the thermometer stands between 60 and 70, at the head of the Gulf it is down to the freezing point. The few fertile spots of Lower California yield maize, manioc, wheat, beans, pease, and all manner of esculent roots ; excel lent grapes, from which a wine is made, similar to that of the Canaries ; oranges, lemons, limes, citrons, prunes, dates, plantains, pine-apples, &c. The mountains feed a few wild sheep and goats ; and, to a small extent, horses, black cattle, mules, goats, and pigs, are reared. If the land be barren, the sea is stored with fish in incredible abundance and variety ; among them may be named halibut, salmon, turbot, skate, pilchard, large oyster, thornback, mackerel, barbel, bonitos, soles, lobsters, sardines, cod, tunnies, anchovies, and pearl oysters. The pearl oyster is obtained in the gulf, near the S. parts of California, and it was formerly much more exten sively fished than at present ; in fact, the fishing or diving for it has almost been abandoned. The pearls obtained are of a fine water and large, but rather irregular in shape, and not very pleasing to the eye. The quantity obtained in 1831 by 15 boats, amounted in value to about 7000. Gold is supposed to abound in Lower California, and a mine wrought near La Paz is said to be rich. The limited exports of the country consist of pearls, gold, dates, wines, grapes, soap, figs, spirits, salt, from an inland lake on the Island of Carmen ; a few goats, and hides. The chief towns are Loretto, the capital; lat. 26 16 N. ; Ion. 112 5 W. ; with a population of 500, though it formerly had 2000; and La Paz, about 150 m. S.E. the former, with a population of about 2000. The present population of the country consists chiefly of mongrel breeds of Indians, whites, and negroes. Lower California was discovered by llernando de Grixalva in 1534. In 1642, the Jesuits formed establishments in it; they taught the natives the art of cultivating the ground, and raised them greatly in the scale of civilization. In the reign of Philip V., more especially subsequent to 1744, the Spanish establishments in California increased, and became very considerable. In a very few years the Jesuits built 16 villages in the interior of the peninsula; but in 1767 they were expelled, and the administration of California was com mitted to monks of the Dominican convents of the city of Mexico, who have not maintained the same career of useful ness as their predecessors. Pop. 8000 ; of whom, probably 4000 are Indians. (Humboldt, Essai Politique sur leRoyaume de la Nouvelle-Espagne; Farnham s Life, Travels, and Adven tures in California). CALIG 5G7 CALLINGTON CALTG, a tn. Spain, Valencia, prov. Castellon de la Plana, 7 m. N. Peniscola. It is clean, and tolerably wel built ; has a square, a parish church, chapel, two schools, a spacious townhall and a prison beneath, a poorly- endowe hospital, and a cemetery. Weaving, distilling brandy, ex pressing oil and wine, making bricks, and tillage, employ the inhabitants, who also trade in grain, wine, hemp, manufac tured goods, &c. Pop. 3020. CALINGAPATAM, a small seaport tn. Ilindoostan, E. coast, N. Circars, 18 m. N.E. Chicacole; lat. 18 20 N. ; lon.84ll E. CALIPUJANG, a harbour, isl. Java, S. coast, inside of isls. Nusa-Kombangan and Nusa Re ; lat. 7 33 S. ; Ion. 106 30 E. Though the entrance by either side of the high round island, Nusa Ke, was laid down as safe in the chart, the vessel in which Mr. Earl entered struck on a sunken rock, in the E. channel. The Dutch establishment here, though the largest on the S. coast of Java, is small, and is employed in collecting the revenue on salt and edible birds -nests. CALITRI, a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Ultra, 15 m. E. St. Angelo-di-Lombardi, on the Ofanto. It stands on a high hill, and has a handsome parish church, with a Benedic tine convent. Cattle and sheep are reared to a large extent in the environs. Pop. 5219. CALITUBA, a tn. Ceylon. See CALTUKA. CALIZANO, a tn. Sardinian States, div. of, and 40 m. "VV.S.W. Genoa; to the W. of Mount Calvi, and not far from the source of the Bormida. Pop. 2432. CALKE, or CAULK, par. Eng. Derby; 880 ac. Pop. 55. CALLAC, a tn. France, dep. Cotes-du-Nord, 31 m. W.S.W. Brieuc. It has numerous fairs. Pop. 1038. CALLAIN, a tn. Malay Peninsula, State Salangore, Strait of Malacca, lat. 3 N. ; Ion. 101 20 E. ; 207 m. N.N.E. Singapore. CALLAN, par. Irel. Kilkenny ; 5634 ac. Pop. 6128. CALLAN, a tn. Ireland, co. of, and 10 in. S.W. Kilkenny, on the King s river. It consists chiefly of four streets, that meet in the centre ; the other parts of the town are composed of mean, straggling thoroughfares. The parish church is an old monastic building. The R. Catholic chapel, situated in a commanding position, is a modern edifice. There are, also, a modern Augustinian friary and chapel, a large substantial stone structure ; a national school, a girls daily school, a dis pensary, and a loan fund. A small trade in grain is almost the only business done in Callan. A few persons are em ployed in making flannel, and a considerable number in making brogues or coarse shoes ; but the great majority are cither small traders or agricultural labourers. Pop. 3111. CALLANA, or CALANNA, a tn. and mountainous dist. N.W. Africa, in Soudan. The mountains form part of the Bataka range ; a system which branches off in a N.E. direc tion from the mountains of Kong, in about Ion. 2 W., and terminates in the desert of Sahara. The town of Callana is about 450m. S.S.E. Timbuctoo; lat. 11 12 N.; Ion. 2 W. CALLANDER, a par. and vil. Scotland, co. Perth. The PARISH is 18 m. long, E. to W., and varying from 1 to 6 m. broad. Its fine mountains and lake scenery have been ren dered classical by Sir Walter Scott s poem of the Lady of the Lake; the mountains Bcnledi, Stuic-a-chroin, and Uamh- mhor, and lochs Katrine, Achray, and Vennacher, being within its bounds. The VILLAGE is beautifully situated on the N. side of a flat plain, intersected by the river Teith. It consists of a long double row of neat white-washed houses, on either side of the road, and contains a neat Established church, a Free church, and a school. Pop. of vil. 1107 ; of par. 1665. CALLAO, a tn. Peru, dep. of, and 6 m. W. Lima, of which it is the seaport, near the mouth of the Rimac ; lat. 12 4 S. ; Ion. 77 13 45" W. (R.) The houses are mean, built of mud, with flat roofs, and are generally only one story. There being no rain, but frequent earthquakes, stone houses are both unnecessary and dangerous. Great improvements have, however, recently been made ; the streets have been widened, a fine mole has been erected, and the whole town has assumed a more respectable appearance. The principal street, which runs parallel to the bay, is paved ; has side walks, and contains some tolerably well-built houses, of two stories. The castle of Callao, which used to be regarded as the key of Lima, has been almost entirely dismantled, and is now used as a custom-house. The market-place occupies a square of 1J acres. Omnibuses run several times a day to Lima. Heavy dews at night supply the want of rain. Callao is the emporium of a large and increasing trade ; and its road stead is large, safe, free from rocks, and always smooth. VESSELS EMEKKD and CLEAHKD at the POUT OF CALLAO, in 1844 to 1847. Entered. Cleared. Years. Vessels. Tons. Vessels. Tons. 1844 539 127,110 509 120,908 1845 577 127,549 563 124678 1846 686 178,658 667 175,034 1847 709 205,697 687 199,473 In 1746, the town was entirely demolished by an earthquake, when only 200 persons, out of 4000, escaped destruction. It has been since rebuilt nearly on its former site, but a little farther from the sea. At low water the ruins of the old town are still visible. November 5, 1820, Lord Cochrane and a party of Chilians cut out the Esmeralda, a large Spanish 40 gun frigate, from under the guns of the castle. Pop. 5000. CALLAO ISLAND, an isl. Chinese Sea, E. coast, Cochin- China, 9 m. from the mainland ; lat. (S. part) 15 54 N. ; Ion. 108 30 E. It is high, one of its mountains exceeding 1400 ft., of irregular form ; about 6 m. in length, and from 2 to 3 m. in breadth, having some islets adjoining its S. end, and others projecting W. from its N.W. part. It is inhabited, well cultivated, and the anchorage on the W. side, in 4 or 4 fathoms, is safe in all winds. On this side there is a beautiful spot of about 200 ac., covered with neat houses, temples, clusters of trees, and small hillocks, overgrown with shrubs. About 20 m. S.S.E. Callao is a small island, surrounded with rocky islets, called False Callao Island. CALLAS, a tn. France, dep. Var, 5 m. N.E. Draguignan, on a low hill, at the foot of the Piol Mountain. It has narrow, crooked, and excessively dirty streets, polluted by the dung- heaps in process of preparation for manuring the olive-yards of the environs. A good deal of oil is made here, and coal is worked in the vicinity. Pop. 1980. CALLE (LA), or AL KALAH, a seaport, Algeria, prov. Constantine, 31 m. W. Tabarka; lat. 36 50 N. ; Ion. 8 30 E. It is defended by a fort, and is a principal station of the French coral-fishery, lying midway between Tabarka and Bona. The environs are fertile, well wooded, and particu larly rich in cork trees. Wheat, barley, leather, and tobacco are exported. Pop. 400. CALLENBEKG, two vils.Saxony, both in circle Zwickau : 1, dist. Waldenberg, containing chalk and tile works, and possessing a chalybeate spring. Pop. 1080. 2, dist. Lich- tenstein, containing a handsome church, and possessing some inen manufactures, a mill, and distillery. Pop. 1900. CALLIANEE. 1, a large tn. Hindoostan, in the Concan, 30 m. N.N.E. Bombay, cap. dist. of same name. A consider able traffic is carried on here in cocoa-nuts, oil, coarse cloths, brass, and earthenware. 2, a mountain-stream in the Concan Ghauts, on which occur numerous beautiful waterfalls, the principal of which is 1400 ft. high. CALLIES, a tn. Prussia, gov. Koslin, 58 m. E.S.E. Stettin, on the Great and Little Baberon and Miihlensee. It has walls, with three gates ; contains a castle, and a church ; nd, besides some linen and woollen manufactures, has six yearly markets. Pop. 2641. CALLIGRAY, or KILLIGRAT, a small isl. Scotland, Hebrides, Argyleshire, between Harris and N. Uist. It is about 2 m. long, by 1 m. broad. CALLINGER, a tn. and fortress, Hindoostan, cap. dist. of same name, prov. of, and 90 m. S.W. Allahabad; lat. 24 58 N. ; Ion. 80 25 E. It stands on a lofty hill, the ummit of which is at least 1200 ft. above the plains below. The town, which is of considerable size, stands at the foot of he N. front of the hill ; but the whole summit of the hill, comprehending a plain 5 m. in circuit, is encompassed by an mmense mud rampart of Mahometan construction, and com posed of rough unhewn stones. In the interior are several arge tanks, always filled with water. In 1810, after an un- uccessful attack, it was taken by the British, the garrison laving evacuated during the night. CALLINGTON, a tn. and par. England, co. Cornwall. The town, 12 m. N.W. Plymouth, lies low, and is destitute f all attraction ; the houses are irregularly built, and form jut one broad street, running N. and S. It was constituted a jorough in the time of Elizabeth, and returned two members CALLOO 568 CALOSOO to Parliament, but was disfranchised by the Reform Act. after (hey have been subjected to some process of manufacture; Pop. 1388. Area of par. 2600 ac. Pop. 1C85. the wealthier classes dress in cloth or silk, and sceui fully CALLOO. a tn. and com. Belgium, prov. E. Flanders, alive to the dignity supposed to be conferred by a showy 7 m. W.N.W. Antwerp, 1. bank, Scheldt. Here is the fort j exterior. Their riches consist in the number of their live of Liefkenshoek, facing Fort-Lillo, constructed in 1583, to stock, more especially horses, of which individuals possess to control the passage of the river. The position is strong, as ] the number of 1000 each. The milk of the mares, in addition the whole flat country around can easily be inundated. Calloo j to the spirit distilled from it, as already mentioned, furnishes has some trade in agricultural produce ; it has also a tannery, | the principal summer beverage, but in winter that of the cow brewery, rope-walk, and two flour-mills. Pop. 2147. is usually substituted for it. The milk of sheep, which, as a CALLOSA-DE-ENSARRIA, a tn. Spain, Valencia, prov. of, | live stock, rank next in number to horses, is chiefly employed and 31 m. N.E. Alicante, 1. bank, Guadalest, which is some times called Callosa, 6 m. from the sea; streets generally steep, narrow, and crooked, but clean and well paved. It has a parish church, four chapels, townhall, session-house, prison, hospital, cemetery, public fountain, and a magnificent bath of black marble, obtained from a quarry about 1 m. E. of the town. Hempen shoes are manufactured, and some trade is done in grain, fruits, wine, &c. Pop. 4328. CALLOSA-uE-SEGUKA, a tn. Spain, Valencia, prov. of, and 28 m. S. W. Alicante, near the Segura; with houses making butter and cheese. For purposes of transport, the camel and dromedary are frequently employed. The only manufacture which exists in any degree of perfection among the Calmucks, is that of preparing sheep and lamb skins, which form a considerable article of trade, particularly with the Russians, and are often formed into pelisses, which bring a large price. This manufacture is almost entirely performed by the women, on whose shoulders, as usual in savage or half-savage nations, all labours which require careful atten tion and persevering industry are laid. well built, chiefly of black marble, several clean, paved, and The Calmucks who acknowledge the authority of the spacious squares, a large and handsome parish church, two Chinese emperor amount to about 50,000, and are governed schools, a townliouse, prison, small hospital, and four con- [ by princes who trace their descent from a brother of the vents, with churches attached. In the neighbourhood is an celebrated Genghis Khan. After coming from the N.W. and extensive aqueduct for conveying water from the Segura to the city of Orihuela. Pop. 2904. CALLOW, par. Eng. Hereford; 640 ac. Pop. 171. CALLUNDBOKG, tn. Denmark. See KALLUNDBORG. CALMAK, tn. Sweden. See KALMAR. CALMINA, a tn. N.W. Africa, kingdom Dahomey, 10m. taking possession of the country around the Koko-noor, where they still have their principal locality, they gave in their ad hesion to the Chinese government, and continued faithful to it till 1723, when they raised the standard of revolt, and made a hostile incursion into the Chinese territory. In the contest which ensued they sustained a signal defeat, and were P. Abomey, and about 80 m. from the coast at Whidah ; Lit. ! subjected to an annual tribute of oxen, sheep, horses, and 7 22 N. ; Ion. 2 22 E. camels, the payment of which is still exacted. A detachment CALMUCKS, KALMUCKS, or ELEUTHES, a remarkable of this tribe, to the number of 25,000, emigrated in 1 759 to people of Mongol extraction, found in various parts of central the banks of the Volga, and became subject to Russia. The Asia, but occupying more especially the W. part of Mon- Songarian Calmucks about the beginning of the last century, golia, extending from Asiatic Russia to China proper. Both after subduing some of their neighbours, engaged in a fierce the people and the country are still very imperfectly known, struggle with the Mongolians and Chinese, and were them- They are divided into the four principal tribes of Koschots, selves ultimately subdued. The Torgots, who, at a much Songars, Torgots, and Derbets, and are subject partly to earlier period than any of the other tribes, had emigrated to Russian, and partly to Chinese supremacy, though each is the Volga, having become discontented with their condition, governed immediately by its own recognized chief. In cus- returned in a body to their country in 1771, leaving, how- toms and physical constitution, they bear a strong resem- ever, a subordinate branch headed by n prince called Dun- blance to the Mongolians, having oblique, narrow eyes, with dukov, who, with his followers, made their unreserved angles far less salient than those of Europeans ; their black eye- submission to the Czar. This prince at a later period brows, small, flat noses, high cheek-bones, round heads, large became a convert to Christianity, and was succeeded by his cars, and remarkably acute senses of smell, sight, and hearing, son-in-law, who, by the command of the emperor, assumed so as to make objects perceptible to them at very extraordinary the title of Dundukov Korsakov. Besides the Calmucks distances. They are in the highest degree filthy and sensual, already mentioned, there are some who have joined the lead a nomadic life, dwelling in movable huts of skin, and Greek church, and been assigned a residence in the town of though not destitute of frankness and hospitality, are much Stavropol, gov. Simbirsk. In the same district are some Cal- more characterized by a deceitful and thievish disposition, mucks who have embraced Mahometanism. The whole num- Their habits unfitting them for agriculture, their chief em- ber within the Russian dominions has been estimated at 56,000. ployments are herding and the rearing of cattle. Like most savage nations, they are fond of intoxicating liquors, and have discovered the means of gratifying the propensity, by extracting from mares milk a kind of spirit, which they call Ariki, or Kumiss. The individuals belonging to each sepa rate horde are classed under the heads of people, nobility, and priests. The people are mere slaves: the priests, with a few exceptions, are followers of Buddha: the nobility consist of CALNE, a market tn., parl. bor., and par. England, co. Wilts, 85 m. W. London. The consists principally of several grades, some being hereditary chiefs, who take the title of noion, and govern the tribes of which they are th one long street lighted with gas, and is, in general, well built, and clean. The parish church is handsome, and the tower, by Inigo Jones, contains a set of fine chimes. There are here places of worship for various religious denominations, a free grammar-school, and some alms-houses. The manufacture of woollen cloth was formerly carried on extensively, but this trade has now greatly declined. Calne sent two members to Parliament from the time of Richard II. down to the passing head, with little more than a nominal subjection to the khan, j of the Reform Act, which restricted its privilege to one. The or head of the whole nation; others governing a subdivision Chippenham station on the Great Western Railway is 6 m. of the tribe, in subordination to the noion, and known by the j from the town. Pop. 2483. Area of par. 9670 ac. ; pop. 5128. name of dzaissang, or noble, in the proper sense of the term; | CALONI. See KALONI. and a third, and still lower grade, exercising authority over a still more minute subdivision, in subordination to both dzaissangs and noions. The authority of this last grade extends to the infliction of punishment, but is by no means CALORE, two rivers, Naples: 1, rises on the S. fron tiers of Principato Ultra, near Mount Calvello, and the town of Montella, flows in a tortuous course past Benevento, and joins the Volturno about 15 m. above Capua; whole course, of an arbitrary nature, as it must be exercised in conformity i about 60 m. It receives the Ufita and Miscono shortly after to a code of law which is not merely oral, but is said to exist j their junction, the Tanaro, and the Salvato ; and contains ex- in writing in the Mongol tongue. This tongue, or rather a ! ccllent trouts, eels, and crabs. 2, Galore, Tcmgro, or Negro, corrupt dialect of it, is in general use among the Calmucks. Their armour consists commonly of a lance and a how. Not a few, however, have learned the use of the musket, and none of the higher classes consider themselves completely armed without a coat of mail. The dress of the lower classes is skins, frequently almost in their natural state, but often also which rises in Mount Cervaro, on the S.E. borders of Princi- pato Citra, and running N.N.W. through the valley of Diano, falls into 1. bank Bianco, after a course of nearly 50 m. CALOSOO, a vil. Sardinian States, division of, and about 22 m. S.W. Alexandria. A good wine is made in its neigh bourhood.. Pop. 1800. CALPENTYN 569 CALVISANO CALPENTYN, a seaport tn., promontory, and gulf, Ceylon, W. coast. The TOWN, 93 m. N. Colombo, consists of some large houses roofed with tiles, and contains a bazaar, and eight places of worship one belonging to the Protestants, one to the R, Catholics, three to the Gentoos, and three to the Mahometans. There is also a charity school, supported by Government. As usual with the towns and villages of this island, it is thickly interspersed with cocoa-nut trees, which, added to the rich foliage of the sooria, give it a singularly plea sant appearance. Gardens, besides, are attached to each house, in which various sorts of vegetables and fruits are produced, including vines, which here attain great perfection. There are here the ruins of a Dutch fort, built in 1 646, which contained some handsome houses. The harbour is not accessible, in consequence of shoals, to vessels exceeding 100 tons, even at the highest spring tides, so that they are obliged to unload in the Dutch bay at Mutwal, and to send their cargoes to Cal- pentyn in small vessels. The exports from Calpentyn to Madras, and other ports on the Coromandel coast, are cop peras, the dried kernel of the cocoa-nut, cocoa-nut oil, shark s fin, coir rope, honey, bees -wax, ghee, fish oil, wood oil, dammar, moss, chaya roots, and palmyra timber. The im ports consist of cloths, rice, earthenware, hempen thread, spices, minerals, and drugs. There is, besides, a consider able trade with Colombo in copperas, salt-fish, fish roes, dried shrimps, ghee, and deer s horn, in return for Chinaware, English cloth, iates. jackwood planks, tiles, bricks, iron, lead, &c. The fisheries here are considerable, and have greatly increased of late years. Calpentyn was acquired by the Portuguese in 1544, and was held by them till 1640, when it was captured by the Dutch, who remained there till 1795, when it was surrendered to the British, who still retain it. The CALVADOS, a dep. France, bounded, N. by the English Channel, along which its rocky shore extends about 60 m., E. by dep. Eure, S. by Orne and La Manche, W. by La Manche. Area, 2145 sq. in. It derives its name from a range of rocks extending about 14 m. along the coast, and which were called Calvados, after a Spanish vessel that was wrecked on them. It comprises the ancient Auge, Bessin, and part of Lieuvin. The department is undulating, picturesque, and possesses rich pastures. Its S. portion is traversed by hills, none of which, however, in any part of the district, attain an elevation ex ceeding 250 ft. ; the culminating point is Mount Pincon. The principal rivers are the Touques, Dives, Orne, and Vire, which are navigable for small vessels. Coal is the only mineral worked to any extent Agriculture is in a more ad vanced state than in many other parts of France, and more than a half of the whole surface is under the plough. Wheat, barley, oats, rye and buckwheat are cultivated, but the pro duce of grain is insufficient for the consumption. Dairies are numerous, and well managed ; and large herds of cattle are brought in from the departments of Finistere, C6tes-du-Nord, &c., to be fattened on the pastures for the markets of Paris, Rouen, and Caen. Horses of the Norman breed are exten sively reared, and held in high estimation. Butter and cheese are made in large quantities. Cider, grown in the department, is the common beverage of the country ; and melons ripen in the open air. The principal manufactures are linen and lace, earthenware, porcelain, hats, cloth, cotton goods, and straw-hats. That of lace, near Caen and Bayeux, employs about 50,000 hands. There are also numerous oil- mills, paper-mills, tanneries, distilleries, &c. The mackerel and herring fishery is carried on along the coast, where lobsters and shell-fish are also obtained. About 25,000,000 of oysters, inhabitants are composed of Malabars, Javanese, and Moors, ! procured in the roads of Cancale, are annually laid down in and amount in number to about 4500. The PROMONTORY of Calpentyn is a longnarrowstripof land, of about 20m. in length, separated from the mainland by the Gulf of Calpentyn, a straight inlet, about 7 m. broad at the widest part. The soil excessively sandy, but productive. The GULF affords safe anchorage for vessels of considerable size, as far as Calpen tyn. It is plentifully stocked with fish, and a considerable mullet fishery is carried on along its N.W. coast. It abounds also in porpoises, dolphins, turtles, trepang, which is occa sionally collected and exported to the markets of Singapore and Penang, by Chinese merchants ; and in chanks or conch shells. In the neighbourhood of Putlam, which is near the head of the gulf, sea snakes, of a venomous species, exist in great numbers. CALPI, a tn. Hindoostan. See KALPY. CALRY, par. Irel. Sligo ; 11,511 ac. Pop. 6045. CALSTOCK, a par. and tn. England, Cornwall. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in the copper, tin, and lead, mines of the vicinity ; area, 5450 ac. Pop. 2553. CALSTONE-WELL1NGTON, par.Eng. Wilts; 1 130 ac. Pop. 31. CALTANICETTA, a tn. Sicily, cap. prov. of same name, near the Salso, 62 rn. S.E. Palermo. It is fortified, and has a citadel ; broad and straight streets ; houses well built. In the vicinity are springs of petroleum, and of hydrogen gas, and important sulphur mines, producing an nually about 5500 tons. Caltanicetta is supposed to occupy the site of the Kissa of the Romans. Pop. 1 6,563. CALTHORPE, par. Eng. Norfolk , 850 ac. Pop. 214. CALTONICA, a tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 15 m. N.W I beds at the mouth of the Seulles. The department is divided into six arrondissements, containing 37 cantons. It belongs to the 14th military division of the kingdom. Chief town, Caen. Pop. 498,385. CALVELLO, a tn. Naples, prov. Basilicata, 13 m. S. Potenza, on a hill slope. It has a handsome church and two convents. Pop. 6550. CALVENTURA ISLANDS, two groups of rocky islets in the Bay of Bengal, off the E. coast of Burmah, distant from each other about 5 or 6 ni. The N.W. group consists of seven black rocks, in lat. 16 55 N.; Ion. 94 14 E. (R.) The S.E. division consists of two high rocky islands, covered with trees and bushes, connected by a reef of rocks with 5 to 7 fathoms water upon it. CALVERLEIGH, par. Eng. Devon ; 550 ac. Pop. 81. CALVERLEY, par. Eng. W. Riding, York ; 8390 ac. Pop. 21,039. CALVERT, or KAVEN, a group of small islands, N. Pacific Ocean; lat. (N.W. one), 8 54 N. ; Ion. 170 49 E. CALVERTON, two pars, and a vil. England:!, par. Bucks ; 1980 ac. Pop. 493. 2, par. and vil. Notts. The VILLAGE, picturesquely situated in a valley, consists of one street about 1% m. long ; and, besides the parish church, has chapels belonging to the Wesleyans, Baptists, and Ranters. It is gradually increasing. The inhabitants are chiefly em ployed in framework, in its various branches of hosiery, drawers, and gloves. Lee, the inventor of the stocking- frame, was born in the parish. Area, 3320 ac. Pop. (1851), 1427. (Local Correspondent.) CALVI, a seaport tn. France, island Corsica, on a penin- Girgenti. The sulphur works in the neighbourhood produce sula in the Gulf of Calvi, on the N.W. coast of the island; annually upwards of 1000 tons of sulphur. Salt is also manu factured in the district. Pop. 7060. CALTURA, a seaport tn. Ceylon, cap. dist. of same name, 28 m. S.E. Colombo ; lat. 6 35 N. ; Ion. 80 2 E. lat. 42 35 12" N.; Ion. 8 43 30" E. (R.) It is a fortified place of the second class, being defended by a strong citadel, flanked with five bastions. The entrance, on Point Rivelata, is a light 289 ft. high. The port ligh is good, and at its It consists of about 200 tiled houses, and contains a handsome trade of the place is considerable; its chief exports are timber, Wesleyan chapel and school. A great number of native wine, oil, almonds, citrons, oranges, wax, goat skins, and vessels, belonging to the port, trade to Madras and other j wood fuel A good red wine is produced in the adjoining places on the coast of Coromandel. Being constantly cooled by the sea breezes, it is very healthful, and is, on this ac count, much resorted to by invalids from Colombo. (Ceylon Gaz.} CALUIRE, a tn. France, dep. Rhone, 1 bank, Saone, 3 m. N.N.E. Lyons. It has three annual fairs. Pop. 5048. CALUSO, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 12 m. S. Ivrea, with a communal college. Pop. 3000. VOL. I. country. Calvi was taken by the English in 1794, after a siege of 51 days. Pop. 1746. CALVI A, a tn. Spain, isl. Majorca, 6 m. W. Palma; with a church, school, townhall, and cemetery. Pop. 2007. CALVISANO, a tn. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and about 17m. S.E. Brescia, in a beautiful and fertile plain. It is now of small extent, but is said to have been at one time a large and populous city. The COMMUNE 72 CALVISSON 570 CAM ARGUE is rich in grain and pasture, and contains numerous mulberry plantations. Pop. 3502. CALVISSON, a tn. France, dep. Gard, 11 m. S.W. Nismes; with a Protestant church, a brandy distillery, exten sive manufactures of crcain of tartar, and some trade in wine. Pop. 2593. CALW, or KALW, an anc. tn. Wiirtemberg, circle, Black Fcrest, cap. bail, of same name, in a deep and well-wooded valley, on both banks of the Nagold, which is crossed by two bridges, and divides it into the upper and lower towns, 20 m. W.S.W. Stuttgart. It has seven churches, a grammar and a commercial school. The town church and townhouse are handsome, particularly the latter, which has a fine hall, with arched roof. It is one of the most industrious towns in the kingdom, and has considerable manufactures of linen, woollen cloths, hosiery, worsted, glue, and leather, also several dye ing establishments. In the vicinity are the ruins of the castle of the former Earls of Calw, the most powerful of the Swabian nobles in the Middle Ages. One of the Earls of Calw became Pope Victor II. Pop. of tn. 4190; of tail. 21,872. CALY, a river, Hindoostan, which rises in prov. Gurhwal, flows in a S.S.E. direction through Delhi, between the Jumna and the Ganges, parallel to, and, for a great part of its course, at equal distances from, these rivers. Latterly, it bends N.E., and falls into the Ganges on the W. confines of Oude, in lat. 2710 N. ; Ion. 79 45 E. CALZADA, several tns. and vils. Spain, of which the chief are: 1, Calzada (Santo Domingo de la), a city, Old Castile, prov. of, and 25 m. W. by S. Logrono, in a fertile plain, r. bank, Oja or Glera ; surrounded by ancient stone walls, and a fosse, and entered by seven gates. Its houses are generally well built, and it has well paved and clean streets, four squares, a Gothic cathedral, two churches, Latin and several other endowed schools, a spacious townhouse, session-house, prison, rich hospital, house of mercy, orphan asylum, some convents, and a palace of the Marquis of Ciri- nuela. The weaving of woollen fabrics, cloth, baize, cash mere, and counterpanes, dyeing wool, and agriculture, occupy the people. Trade in grain, fruits, cattle, manufactured goods, rice, wine, oil, and hardware. Pop. 3447. 2, Calzada de Calatrava, a tn. New Castile, prov. of, and 15 m. S. by E. Ciudad-real, in an irrigated plain. The houses are well built, and it has clean, well paved, and regular streets, a parish church, chapel, townhouse, prison, four schools, and a fine fountain. Linen and woollen fabrics, cloth, blonde lace, oil, and wine are made. Pop. 3840. 3, Calzada de Oropesa, a tn. New Castile, prov. Toledo, 28 rn. W. Talavera, having a church, townhall, prison, and school. Pop. 1160. 4, Calzada and Casas de Calzada, a vil. Leon, prov. of, and 42 m. S. Salamanca. Pop. 368. 5, Calzada de don Diego, a vil. Leon, prov. of, and 16 m. S.S.W. Salamanca. Pop. 195. With many others. CAM, or GRANTA, a river, England, rising in the N. part of co. Hertford, and, after a N.E. course of 40 m. through Cambridgeshire, falling into the Ouse, 34 m. S. Ely. It has a remarkably sluggish stream, and is navigable to Cambridge, 15 m. from its confluence with the Ouse. CAM, par. and vil. Eng. Gloucester; 3430ac. Pop. 1851 . CAM, par. Irel. Eoscommon ; 12,403 ac. Pop. 3830. CAMACHO, a large, and several small lakes, Brazil, prov. Santa Catharina, connected with each other by natural canals, which are navigable for laden canoes. They lie S. of the river Tubar2o, and are commonly named Jaguaruna, Gurupala, and Santa Martha. CAMACUAN, or ICABAQUAM, a river, Brazil, prov. Sio-Pedro-do-Rio-Grande, rising in the W. frontier of the province, flowing E. between the serras de Tapes and the serra de Herval, and, after a course of about 150 m., passing numerous falls, and receiving numerous tributaries, it enters the Lake of Pastos by several mouths. It is navigable for canoes for about 20 m. from its mouth, where the first falls occur. CAMAJORE [anc. Campus major], a tn. and com. Italy, duchy of, and 16 m. N.W. by W. Lucca, 4 m. E.S.E. Pietra Santa, r. bank of a small tributary of the Lumbrichese. It is well built, and clean ; surrounded by walls, flanked by towers, and protected by a deep fosse. The streets are paral lel, and regularly built, and the town possesses a square, a handsome collegiate church, hospital, and numerous other neatly constructed edifices. Pop. 2220. CAMAMU, a small, but flourishing tn., Brazil, prov. of, and 100 m. S.W. Bahia, 1. bank, Acarahi, 10 m. above its embouchure in the Bay of Camamu. It has two churches, a townhall, and prison, a Latin and a primary school, and a port, defended by a fort. It trades with Bahia, exporting coffee, cacao, manioc flour, spirits, rice, and building materials. Pop. 2000. The BAY is about 10 m. square, receives several rivers besides the Acarahi, and has several islands, one of which, named also Camamu, is a rocky islet about 3 m. iu diameter, on which several families live. CAM AN A, a tn. Peru, cap. prov. same name, dep. of, and 90 m. W. Arequipa, in a fertile plain near the sea. Pop. 1500. The PROVINCE is about 75 m. N.W. to S.E., and about 40 m. broad ; traversed by mountains and valleys, and watered by a number of torrents. The vine is extensively cultivated ; from the fruit of which brandy and vinegar are made. Gold mines are numerous, but yield little profit. The province is peopled by 14 different tribes, named after the valleys which they respectively inhabit. CAMAPUAN, a river, Brazil, prov. Mato-Grosso, one of the head streams of the Tacoary, or Taquari, an affluent of the Paraguay. It has a course of about 70 m. CAMARAN, an isl. Ked Sea. See KAMARAN. CAMARANCA, a river, N.W. Africa, Guinea, which has its sources in the Kong Mountains, near Laing s sources of the Niger ; lat. 9 N. ; Ion. 9 15 W. ; it pursues a S.W. course of about 250 m., and falls into Yawry Bay, on the coast of Sierra Leone. CAMARES, or PONT-DE-CAMARES, a tn. France, dep. Aveyron, 62 m. W.N.W. Montpellier, in the form of an amphitheatre, on a rock overhanging the Dourdon. It is poorly and irregularly built, and ill-paved ; but the suburb, which stands on the opposite side of the river, and communi cates with the town by a very ancient bridge, has a much more agreeable appearance. Manufactures : woollen cloth and worsted. About 1 m. from Camares are the saline chaly beate springs of Andabre, where there is a bathing establish ment, much frequented. Pop. 1710. CAMARGO, a tolerably well-built vil. Spain, prov. of, and 6 m. S. Santander ; with a church and school. Pop. 2138. CAMARGO, a tn. Mexico, dep. Tamaulipas, r. bank, San Juan, near its junction with the Rio Bravo del Norte, 90 m. E. by N. Monterey; lat. 26 10 N. ; Ion. 98 30 W. Pop. 2600. CAMARGOS, a vil. Brazil, prov. Minas Geraes, 6 m. N. Marianna ; with a church and school, and an agricultural and mining pop. of 1000. CAMARGUE (LA), [ Castra Mariana, Camaria instda] , a river isl. France, dep. Bouches-du-Rhone, forming the delta of the Rhone. It is triangular, and is bounded E. by the branches called the Old Rhone and Great Rhone, W. by the Littla Rhone, and S. by the Mediterranean. Area, 250 sq. m. ; length, N. to S., 25 m. ; average breadth, 11. It is quite flat, and in climate and soil the latter composed of mud banks, arid sand, or bare gravel beds, alternating with salt marshes and lagoons, raised from 2 to 7 ft. above the sea it assimilates rather to Africa and the borders of the Nile, than to France. Even some of the animals which resort to it the ibis, pelican, and flamingo, belong to the African con tinent. The ground is so impregnated with salt that the water is brackish ; the surface of the soil in summer is covered with a white saline efflorescence, and when the pools are dried up, the salt forms a cake two inches thick. Here, as in the African deserts, the mirage occurs during the heats. The sea is excluded by dykes, and the waters of the Rhone are suc cessfully used in irrigation, to counteract the effects of the salt. The most elevated parts of the soil, principally on the banks of the Rhone, are extremely fertile, and produce large quantities of wheat and red wine, while the lower parts aftbrd an extensive tract of excellent pasturage, on which flocks of sheep and cattle, with large droves of horses, are permitted to roam ; 40,000 lambs are reared annually. The horses are small but nimble, much esteemed for the saddle, and said to be descended from the Arab stock imported by the Saracens. There are several lagoons, the largest of which is that of Valcarres. From these salt and soda are manufactured. The island contains nine communes. CA MARINES 571 CAMBRAI CAMARINES (NORTH and SOUTH) i, two pro vs. Philippines, isl. Luzon, both occupying the S.E. limb of the island. The N. province is partly mountainous, but contains also extensive and fertile plains. The mineral products comprise gold, iron, and various kinds of marble. There are several rivers in the province, all of which abound in fish. Most of these streams are crossed by bridges, some of stone and others of bamboo, but they are little required excepting in the rainy season, the river generally being at all other times sufficiently low to be crossed on foot. The level tracts are nearly all under culti vation, and produce rice, but not sufficient to supply the wants of the inhabitants. The climate is oppressive and unhealthy, excepting in the months of January and February, when it is sufficiently agreeable. The inhabitants are remarkable for their honesty and good nature. The S. province is traversed by a chain of mountains that run throughout the whole length of the island, but is, nevertheless, more fertile than the N., producing such quantities of rice as enable its inhabitants to supply the neighbouring territories. In other particulars it resembles the N. province. Formerly the Camarines com posed but one province, having been separated for administra tive purposes. CAMBAY, or CAMBAJA, a large seaport tn. Hindoostan, prov. Goojerat, in the Guicowar s dominions, at the head of the gulf of same name, 85 m. N.N. W. Surat, 240 m. N. Bom bay ; lat. 22 17 N. ; Ion. 72 35 30" E. (R.) It was formerly a place of considerable importance, but now much decayed, in consequence of the filling up of deposits brought down by the rivers. Near the town the tides rush in with great violence, and rise from 30 to 40 ft., making it possible for large vessels to come close up at high water, though at ebb they are left dry. It has several mosques and Hindoo temples, and the remains of many more religious structures, erected by the Jains, a sect formerly predominant in this part of India. The surround ing country is fertile, producing abundance of wheat and other grains, oleaginous seeds, indigo, cotton, and excellent tobacco. Formerly, silk and chintz goods, jewellery and indigo, were exported, but the trade of the place is almost entirely limited to shipments of grain to Bombay. The silversmiths here excel in the art of embossing, which they perform by filling the article to be so ornamented with gum-lac, and punching the figures with a small chisel. Beads and other ornaments of carnelian, bloodstone, agate, and other precious stones, are also manufactured with great skill, though sometimes by very simple and primitive processes, such as rolling the stones together in bags for several weeks till they acquire a spherical form. Cambay and its territory prospered under the Moguls, and until the beginning of the present century were governed by a native prince, tributary to the Maharattas, since whose fall his rights have devolved on the British Government, to whom the present nabob pays tribute and owns allegiance. The GULP of Cambay is about 160 m. in length from N. to S., and at its entrance between Diu Head in Goojerat and Terrapoor Point in Concan, opposite coast, 130 m. wide, but subsequently diminishes to a breadth of about 18 or 20 m. CAMBELLO, a vil. Indian Archipelago, isl. Ceram, peninsula Hoowamohel, on a slight bend of the shore. Though difficult of approach for ships, it is much frequented by foreigners, being the chief market for cloves. CAMBERWELL, ST. GILES, a vil. and par. England, co. Surrey, a suburb of London, S. side of the Thames. The VILLAGE is about 3 m. from Blackfriar s Bridge, and is mostly occupied by shops. In the environs, which are very beau tiful, are a number of elegant villas and mansions, the resid ences mostly of wealthy, and many of them retired, merchants. The new church, completed in 1844, is considered one of the most elegant Gothic structures erected in England since the 1 6th century. There are, besides, three other places of worship under the Establishment, and several chapels for Dissenters, a free grammar-school, a green-coat school, with several other endowed schools and minor charities. The S. Metropolitan Cemetery, a large and well laid-out enclosure, is in this parish, which also comprehends the important hamlets of Dulwich and Peckham, and the district of St. George. Area of par. 4570 ac. Pop., 1841, 39,868. CAMBIL, or CAMBIEL AND HALABAR, a tn. Spain, Anda lusia, prov. of, and 14 m. S. by E. Jaen, between two hills, crowned, respectively, by the ruinous Arab castles after which the toAvn is named. The river Villanneva, crossed here by two bridges, divides the town into two equal parts. Its streets are tolerably well kept, and it possesses a square, parish church, endowed school, townhall, prison, store-house, and cemetery. Wine and oil are expressed, and some trade is carried on in grain and cattle. An iron foundry has also been established in a suppressed convent. Pop. 2773. CAMBINGr PULO, a small isl. Flores Sea, N.E. entrance of Ombay Passage, between the islands Timor and Ombay, S. peak in lat. 8 18 S. ; Ion. 125 29 E. (R.) It is from 10 to 12 m. in length, and of considerable height. CAMBODIA, or CAMBOJA, a territory in S.E. Asia. See ANAM and SIAM. CAMBODIA, CAMBOJA, or PONTAIPRET, a tn. Siam, the anc. cap. of territory of same name, on both sides of the Mekon ; lat. 12 4 N. ; Ion. 105 4 E. It is now greatly decayed, but the ruins of its royal palace and pagodas attest its ancient greatness. The Dutch had a factory here in the 1 7th century. CAMBODIA, or CAMBOJA POINT. The most S.E. point of Siam ; lat. 8 40 N. ; Ion. 104 55 E. ; at the entrance N. side of the Gulf of Siam. S.E. from the point a shoal flat stretches out a great way from the coast. CAMBODIA, or CAMBOJA, RIVER. See MEKON. CAMBORNE (Sx. MARTIN), amarket tn. and par. England, co. Cornwall, 11 m. N.W. Falmouth. The town, which stands prettily on the slope of a gently rising hill, and is neatly built, contains a handsome granite church, and various dis senting chapels, with a number of daily and Sunday schools. Being situated in the midst of one of the richest mining dis tricts in the county, and in the immediate vicinity of some of its most productive tin and copper mines, it has risen of late years from insignificance to be a place of wealth and import ance. The West Cornwall Railway has a station here ; area of par. 6900 ac. Pop., par. and tn., 10,061. CAMBOORIE, or KAMBURI, a tn. Siam, 120 m. N.N.W. Bangkok, at the confluence of the See-sa-wat and May-man- noi rivers, and for the most part along the bank of the former. It is a straggling place, comprising one long street, with several smaller diverging from it, and having in all about 500 houses, but no bazaar. It is surrounded by a wall, in which are eight gates. A brick fort constructed here is said to contain 20 guns. CAMBRAI, or CAMBRAY, a tn. France, dep. Nord, 33 m. S. by E. Lille, r. bank, Scheldt, a branch of which traverses the town. It is generally well built, is surrounded by walls flanked with ancient round towers, and defended by a strong citadel. The Place d armes, at one end of which stands the Hotel de Ville, is of great extent ; and the esplanade is one of the finest in French Flanders. The Revolution of 1793 stripped Cambrai of all its principal ornaments, leaving only two out of 12 churches. The beautiful cathedral, and the tomb of its archbishop, the celebrated Fenelon, were razed to the ground. A new monument to the memory of the latter, by the sculptor David, was inaugurated, in 1825, in the pre sent cathedral, a modern church of indifferent architecture. Cambrai is the seat of an archbishopric, tribunal of commerce, court of first resort, diocesan seminary, communal college, societe d emulation, and school of design. It has a theatre, military hospital, mont-de-piete, and a public library, with about 30,000 volumes, aud 1000 MSS. The town has long been celebrated for its manufacture of the fine linens called, from the place, cambrics ; its other manu factures are cotton goods, net, linen, and cotton yarn, starch, black soap, potato flower, and beet sugar. There are also some oil-mills, tanneries, salt refineries, bleaching grounds, and several breweries. It carries on a considerable trade in grain, oil seeds, wool, flax, cattle, agricultural produce, and coal. The St. Quentin canal begins here, and joins the Oise at Chauny. Cambrai is the Camaramm of the Romans, by whom it was fortified. It is celebrated for the famous League against the republic of Venice, entered into here in 1508, and for a treaty of peace between Charles V. and Francis I., signed here in 1529. Louis XIV. took Cambrai from the Spaniards, in 1667, and it was finally confirmed to France by the treaty of Nij- megen. On June 24, 1815, it was taken by a detachment of the British army, under Sir Charles Colville, and thereafter, ! to 1818, was one of the principal stations of the army of oecu- i pation. Pop. 18,308. CAMBBEBIS 572 CAMBRIDGE CAMBRESIS [Latin, Camcraceiwium] , an anc. dist. France, about 25 m. long by 10 broad, which was once a dependency of ancient Flanders, and now forms the greater part of arrond. Cambrai, dep. Nord. It was ceded to Louis XIV., in 1678, by the treaty of Nijmegen. CAMBRIDGE, an inland co. England, having co. Lin coln N., cos. Northampton, Huntingdon, and Bedford N.W., cos. Hertford and Essex S., Suffolk E., and Norfolk N.E. ; greatest house, a spacious and handsome structure. There arc, alto gether, 14 parish churches in the town, and seven places of worship for different religious bodies; one for Independents, three for Methodists Wesleyan and Primitive, and throe for Baptists. With exception of St. Sepulchre s, and probably St. Mary s the Greater, there are none of the churches in any way remarkable as specimens of architecture. The former, called, from its shape, the round church, tion of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. ras built in imitii- En 1843, it was re- length, about 50 m. ; greatest breadth, about 25 m. ; area, 548,480 ac. The surface is, in general, flat, although somewhat elevated towards the S., where grassy downs depasture numerous sheep and cattle. About a third part of the county is under tillage, the re mainder being divided between pasture and waste. That part of the county about one-half of the whole N. of the Ouse belongs to the isle of Ely, and is wholly within the Bedford Level (which see). It is 6ne land, intersected by numerous canals, with wind mills for lifting the water into channels high enough to carry it off, and grows heavy crops of oats, wheat, flax, hemp, and cole for sheep-feeding, and possesses excellent pastures. The soil of the S. part of the ^ county is chalky, with some parts clayey, loamy, and gravelly. N.E. and E. of the town of Cambridge is ,["3 the most level chalk tract in England. The more elevated tracts yield all kinds of corn, especially bar ley, and also turnips. In the fens a considerable num ber of cattle and long-wooled sheep are grazed ; and in the S. part of the county, particularly on the rich meadows on the banks of the Cam, dairy husbandry is prosecuted extensively and successfully. The but ter produced here is in great demand in London, where it is sold under the name of Cambridge, and also of Epping, butter. Cambridgeshire is famous, also, for a peculiarly rich and fine-flavoured description of stored, at considerable cost, under the auspices of the Camden ST. SKVULCHRE S CHUKCH, CAMBRIDGE. From a Prii.t by cream cheese, made at Cottenham. A vast number of calves are reared here, also, for the London market. Agriculture is, however, on the whole, in a backward state in this county; the farm-houses poor, and the cottages miserable. There are no manufactures, excepting a little coarse potteryware ; but some of the towns do a good deal of business in corn and oil. The minerals are unimportant. The principal rivers are the Ouse, which crosses the county near its centre, W. to N.E., is navig able throughout the whole of that part of its course; the Cam, or Granta, flowing S.W. to N.E., and falling into the Ouse, and navigable as far up as Cambridge ; and the Nene, or Nen, which crosses the N. part of the county S.W. to N.E., and is also navigable. Besides its rivers, the county has several navig able canals ; and internal communication is further facilitated by numerous good roads, and the main-line of the Eastern Counties Railway, and several branches. The principal towns are Cambridge, Ely, and Wisbeach. It is divided into 18 hundreds, which, together, contain 162 parishes. The whole county returns seven representatives to parliament ; three county members, two for the town of Cambridge, and . two for the universities. Pop. (1851), 185,405 (of which 92,699 were males, and 92.706 females). CAMBRIDGE, a parl. bor. and market tn. England, co. Cambridge, 50 m. N.N.E. London, on a level tract of ground on both sides of the Cam, but the greater portion on the r. bank of that river, which is crossed by a neat cast-iron and several other public bridges, besides which, each college con tiguous to the river has a private one. It is about 3 m. in length, E. to W., and about 1 J in breadth; is wanting in ele- j gance, and, as a town, has, with exception of its celebrated university, few points of interest, and fewer of beauty. The streets, formerly narrow, winding, and irregular, are now much altered and improved, and are well paved and well lighted. The principal market place, recently much improved, is centrically situated, and consists of two spacious oblong squares, in one of which is a conduit, supplied by water from an aqueduct, at a distance of 3 m., erected for the benefit of the town, in 1614, by Hobson, livery stabler, who gave rise to the well-known proverb of Hobson s choice, by adhering to a rule of letting his horses by rotation only, thus leaving the hirer no alternative but to take the one whose turn it was to go out. At the S. end of the market-place stands the guild hall, which contains several large rooms for public purposes ; and near the N.W. extremity of the town is the county court- Society. St. Mary s church is adorned with a massive and lofty tower, crowned with four turrets. But it is to its uni versity that Cambridge owes the interest which it excites. The buildings of this illustrious institution extend along the greater portion of the W. part of the town, between it and the Cam, to both of which they run nearly parallel. They con sist of the senate-house, the university library, and schools, rfl INITV OOLLEGK. CAMBMDBB. x s Memorials of CambriilKe. the former containing about 170,000 volumes; the university or Pitt press, the Fitzwilliam museum, the anatomical mu seum, and the observatory, most of them remarkable for archi tectural elegance. The colleges are 17 in number, called, CAMBRIDGE 573 CAMDEN respectively, St. Peter s, Clare Hall, Pembroke, Gonville and Caius, Trinity Hall, Corpus Christi, King s, Queen s, St. Catherine s Hall, , esus, Christ s, St. John s, Magdalene, Trin ity, Emmanuel, Sidney Sussex, and Downing the most re cent, all of them magnificent structures. The greater number of the colleges are contiguous to each other, chiefly along the Cam river, but there are several in different parts of the town. The origin of this learned foundation is involved in obscurity, but is supposed to date from the seventh century, and to have been founded by Sigebert, a king of the East Angles. It did not, however, assume the regular corporate form of a university till about the 13th century, when the first college was erected by Henry III. In 1333, King Edward III. granted the university some important privileges ; and, in 1430, Pope Martin V. invested it with exclusive ecclesiastical and spiritual jurisdiction over its own scholars. In the reign of Elizabeth, further privileges and rights were bestowed on it, all preceding grants were confirmed, and the university de clared to be incorporated by the name of the chancellor, mas ters, and scholars. The present university comprises, as already mentioned, 17 colleges. Each college is a body corpo rate, and bound by its own statutes, but under the control of the general laws of the university. Each furnishes members for the executive and legislative government of the univer sity. The place of assembly is the senate-house. All per sons who are masters of arts, or doctors in divinity, civil law, or physic, having their names upon the college boards, holding any university office, or being resident in the town of Cam bridge, have votes in this assembly. The annual income of the university is about 5500, arising from various sources, including the produce of fees at matriculations, for degrees, &c., and the profits of the university press, but chiefly from the proceeds of the rectory of Burwell. The public profes sors are paid, some from the university chest, some by the Government, and others from estates left for that purpose. The degrees conferred by the university are those of doctors in divinity, civil law, and medicine, and also in the science of music; that of master of arts, and the degree of bachelor, in each of the foregoing. The academical year consists of three terms, Michaelmas, Lent, and Easter. The languages, arts, sciences, &c., taught, are Arabic, anatomy, astronomy, and geometry, botany, casuistry, chemistry, divinity, laws of England, geology, Greek, Hebrew, modern history, civil law, mathematics, medicine, mineralogy, music, natural philoso phy, physic, besides various endowed lectureships. The botanical garden, on the S.E. side of the town, occupies between three and four acres. The anatomical school con tains a large collection of valuable preparations. On an em inence, at the distance of 1 m. from the college walks, on the road to Madingley, stands the observatory, which cost 19,000. The Fitzwilliam museum, bequeathed to the university by Lord Viscount Fitzwilliam, is a magnificent structure, of the Corinthian order, and contains a noble collection of books, paintings, drawings, &c. The university sends two members to the House of Commons, the privilege having been granted by James I. The right of election is vested in the members of the senate, in number (in 1845) 3204. The vice-chancellor is the returning officer. The principal charitable institution is Addenbrooke s hospital, situated at the S. entrance to the town. The annual cost of its maintenance is about 2600. There are, besides, several alms-houses, minor charities, and free schools. The markets in Cambridge are well supplied with avery kind of provision, but from the very great con sumption of the university, the articles are comparatively dear. The weekly market-day is Saturday. There are two fairs annually, one in June, the other in September ; the former continued for a week, the latter, which is called Sturbridge Fair, for 14 days; but both are now much curtailed. The principal articles brought to sale on these occasions are horses, cattle, timber, pottery, leather, cheese, hops, wool, and hard ware. There are no manufactures in the town, but a consid erable trade is carried on with the port of Lynn in corn, coal, timber, oil, and iron. No dramatic performances are allowed in C imbridge, but there is a theatre in the adjoining village of Harnwell, which is occasionally opened ; great musical festivals, however, are often celebrated in the town, where there is a permanent musical society on a great scale. Cam bridge is a town of great antiquity ; in Doomsday book, where it is described as an important place, it is called Grente- brige, from one of the names of the fiver ; the present name, derived from the modern name of the river Cam, being com paratively recent. In 871, it was burnt by the Danes, and again in 1010. Subsequently to this, it was the scene, at various periods, of events which have become matter of his tory, including several royal visits, and some military expe riences in the time of Cromwell. Of the ancient castle built by William the Conqueror on the site of a Roman station, and some years used as the county jail, only the gateway now remains. Pop., (1841) 24,453, (1851) 27,803; increase 18 per cent. CAMBRIDGE, a tn. IL States, Massachusetts, on Charles s river, 3 m. N.W. Boston. It is the seat of Har vard University, the oldest and best endowed literary insti tution in the U. States, possessing a library which contains upwards of 50,000 volumes ; an excellent philosophical and chemical apparatus, cabinet of minerals, anatomical museum, and botanic garden. A law school, theological seminary, and medical school, are attached to the institution. The average attendance of students is 246. Besides the university build ings, which are extensive and commodious, though irregularly built, Cambridge contains an arsenal, 16 churches, two banks, rope factories, and numerous lumber yards. Many of the private mansions are elegant and spacious. Pop. of township, 8409. Several other towns of the U. States have the same name. CAMBRIDGE GULF. N.W. Australia, between Capes Dussejour and Domett; lat. 14 45 S. It is about 20 m. wide at its entrance, and runs about 75 m. inland. CAMBRILS, a tn. and port, Spain, Catalonia, prov. of, and 12 m. W.S.W. Tarragona, on a hill-slope, and surrounded by decayed walls. It has a parish church, chapel, townhall, custom-house, two schools, an hospital, a cemetery, cavalry barracks, and prison. Wine, brandy, bricks, and tiles, are manufactured, and fishing is carried on. Only small vessels visit the port. Pop. 2254. CAMBUSLANG, a vil. and par. Scotland, co. Lanark. The VILLAGE lies on a rising ground, 4 m. S.E. Glasgow, aiid is a station on the Hamilton railway. It has an Established church and school, and is inhabited chiefly by weavers and miners; but is chiefly noted for the Cambuslang work, a remarkable revival in religion, which took place in 1742, under the ministration of the Rev. Mr. M Culloch. The PARISH is about 3 m. square, and abounds in freestone, coal, and limestone. Pop. (1841), 3022 ; (1851), 3306. CAMBUSNETHAN, par. Scot. Lanark; 12 m. by 3. Pop. (1841), 5803; (1851), 8611. CAMBYNA, an isl. Flores Sea, S. coast of the S.E. peninsula of Celebes. Centre peak in about lat. 5 21 S. ; Ion. 121 57 E. It is about 24 m. long, S.W. to N.E., about 20 broad, and rises steep and rugged from its W. ex tremity. It is inhabited and cultivated. CAMDEN: 1, A city and river port, U. States, New Jer sey, 1. bank, Delaware, opposite Philadelphia, and 29 m. S.W. Trenton. It has six churches, an academy, three schools, three printing-offices, and several factories. A railway leads to New York, and another to Woodbury, and communication with Philadelphia is maintained by three ferries. Pop. 3371. 2, A vil. U. States, S. Carolina, 25 m. N.E. Columbia, 1. bank, Wateree, which is passed by a bridge 1J m. S.W. the village. It has four churches, an academy, court-house, jail, and other public buildings. In the neighbourhood is an extensive cotton factory. A battle was fought here, in 1 780, between General Gates and Lord Cornwallis ; and another, in 1781, between General Greene and Lord Rawdon. Pop. 1000. CAMDEN, a maritime eo. New S. Wales, 65 m. in length, and 41 in breadth; area, 1,400,320 ac. The surface presents a continuous succession of hill and dale, with large tracts unsurpassed in fertility ; of these, the principal are the Cow Pastures, so called from the large herd of cattle found there, the produce of a few runaway animals that had escaped soon after the foundation of the colony. The beautiful and picturesque region of Illawarra or the Five Islands, is in this county ; it comprises 150,000 ac., and extends, N. and S., 18 m. along the coast. There are some fine lakes in the county, the scenery around which is very beautiful. Camdeti returns one member to the Legislative Council. The county CAMDEN-TOWN 571 CAMONICA town is Berrima. The stock has been estimated at 5598 horses, 33,433 head of horned cattle, 3510 pigs, and 35,117 sheep. Pop. 8323. CAMDEN-TOWN, an extensive suburb of London, par. St. Pancras, co. Middlesex, 3 m. N.W. St. Paul s. The houses, which are in general of recent erection, are regular and substantial buildings ; while in the upper part, the crescent, terrace, and other ranges, have a handsome appearance, and command a pleasing, though limited view of the Hampstead and Highgate hills. Camden-Town is intersected by the j North-western Railway, which has a station here of immense ! extent. Besides the chapel, a handsome brick edifice, erected j in 1828, there are two churches, and places of worship for Independents and Wesleyans. There are also a veterinary college, a museum, an infirmary, a range of alms-houses for decayed journeymen tailors, and an orphan working- school. CAMEL, two pars. Eng. Somerset:!, Queen Camel; 2280 ac. Pop. 739. 2, West Camel; 2100 ac. Pop. 334. CAMELEY, par. Eng. Somerset; 1630 ac. Pop. 643. CAMELFOKD, a small market tn. and bor. England, co. Cornwall, on the Camel, 28 m. N.W. Plymouth. The streets are spacious and well paved ; but the houses are, in general, very indifferent. It has a townhall. erected by the Duke of Bedford; a free-school, and a Wesleyan Methodist chapel. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in agriculture. It was disfranchised by the Reform Act. Previous to that period, it sent two members to the House of Commons, and had done so from the time of Edward VI. Pop. 705. CAMELON, a vil. Scotland, co. Stirling, 1 m. N.W. Falkirk, on the line of the Forth and Clyde Canal. Nail making is the chief employment. Pop., 1841, 1340. CAMEN, a tn. Prussia, Westphalia, gov. Arensberg, 25 m. S. Munster, on the Seseke . It contains two churches, a Protestant and a R. Catholic. The inhabitants live by agriculture and the ordinary handicrafts. Pop. 2383. CAMEN Z, a tn. Saxony, circle, Bautzen, 1. bank, White Elster, 20 m. N.E. Dresden. It contains several churches, one of them the Marienkirche, in the Gothic style, particu larly handsome, and richly adorned ; a library, a grammar- school, and several charitable endowments; and has consider able manufactures of earthenware, tobacco, and starch, several dyeworks and tanneries, numerous mills, a, weekly .and two yearly markets. It was almost wholly destroyed by fire in 1842. Lessing, the poet, was born here, June 22, 1729. An hospital was dedicated to his memory in 1826. Pop. 4000. CAMERI, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 4 m. N.N.E. Novara, near the Tessin. It has several churches, and manufactures linen. Pop 3000. CAMEKINO t anc - Camerinum], a tn. Papal States, 86 m. N.N.E. Rome; seat of an archbishopric, and of a dis trict court. The town stands on a hill, and contains some good public buildings, among which are the archiepiscopal palace, a handsome edifice, surrounded with pillars ; the cathedral, a spacious structure; and the church of Omanzia, which contains some fine pictures by the great masters. In the principal square there is a bronze statue of Pope Sixtus V. There are also 12 monasteries, seven convents, and a univer sity, founded in 1727. Silk is both produced and manufactured in the town, and forms an article of commerce. Pop. 5000. CAMEltON, par. Scot. Fife; 4 m. square. Pop. 1167. CAMEROON S, MOUNTAIN and RIVER. The MOUNTAIN of Cameroons occupies the N.E. angle of the Bight of Biafra, W. Africa ; lat. 4 15 N. ; Ion. 9 7 E. Its base is 20 m. in diameter, and its loftiest peak is 13,000 ft. high; it is covered nearly to the summit with trees of luxuriant growth, and seems to form the commencement of a range of volcanic hills stretching N.E., and uniting with the Mountains of the Moon, at lat. 6 N. ; Ion. 12 20 E. At a short distance S.S.E. from the Cameroons Mountain is the estuary of the Cameroons river, which is the receptacle also of several other streams. It is a fine river, having an average breadth, before it reaches the estuary, of about 400 yards, with a depth in the dry season varying from 2 to 20 ft. The r. bank of the stream is low and swampy for several miles towards the base of the moun tain, covered in most parts with mangroves, and intersected by numerous creeks, while the 1. bank rises at once from the waterside to the height of about 50 ft. There are several large and thriving towns on the river, through which an extensive trade is carried on in ivory and palm-oil. The latter is of a superior quality, and the former generally very large, and also of excellent kind. The supply of ivory is said to be inexhaustible, 60 tons having been procured in one season. It is here all taken from dead elephants, who, in search of water, have perished in a vast morass about 200 m. inland S.E. from Cameroons. CAMERTON,a par. and vil. England, co. Somerset. The VILLAGE lies in a valley 8 m. W. Bath, and is intersected by the Somersetshire coal canal. The inhabitants are mostly employed in the colleries. 2030 ac. Pop. 1647. CAMETA, a tn. Brazil, prov. Para, 1. bank, Tocantins, near its mouth, 80 m. S.E. Belem. It has two churches and an hospital ; and is a depot for goods brought down the Tocantins and other streams, and a place of resort for vessels ascending these streams. It is a populous, flourishing town, whose inhabitants are devoted to agriculture, commerce, and navigation. Pop., including its district, which is extensive and fertile, 20,000. CAMIGUIN ISLANDS:!, One of the Babuyanes islands off the N. coast of Luzon ; lat. 18 54 N. ; Ion. 121 53 E. (R.) ; from 7 to 9 m. long, high and hilly. Tho S. part is formed of a high mountain, formerly a volcano, visible at 60 m. distance. The shore is lined with coral rocks, and on the E. and N. sides the land is low close to the sea. On the W. side of the island, S. of its centre, is the port of San Pio Quinto, formed by a concavity in the land, about 3 m. wide, and 1^ inland, sheltered from the sea by an island of the same name, which lies in the middle of the entrance. It is the only place amongst these islands where a large ship can be considered at all safe. 2, One of the smallest of the Philippines, on the N.W. coast of Mindanao; lat. 8 59 N. ; Ion. 124 20 E. (R.) It is high, having a knob on its centre that may be seen 60 m. off. CAMINHA, a tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Minho, dist. Moncao, on a tongue of land, 1. bank, and near the embouchure of the Minho, 30 m. N.W. Braga ; lat. 41 52 42" N. ; Ion. 8 45 W. (R.) It is strongly fortified, but being commanded by a neighbovring hill could not be successfully defended. It contains two churches, three monasteries, two hospitals, and a poorhouse. The harbour is spacious, but is encum bered by a bar, which renders it inaccessible to any but small vessels. The inhabitants depend chiefly on fishing and salt making. Pop. 1272. CAM I SANO, two tns. Austrian Italy:!, A tn., gov. Venice, prov. Vicenza, cap. dist. of same name, 11 m. N.W. Padua. It has a parish and a subsidiary church, and an hos pital. Pop. 2800. 2, A tn. and com., gov. Milan, prov. Lodi, dist. of, and 6 m. N.N.E. Crema. Pop. 881. CAMLIN, par. Irel. Antrim; 6417 ac. Pop. 2157. CAMMERINGHAM.par.Eng.Lincoln; 4450 ac. P. 139. CAMMIN, or KAHMIN, a tn. Prussia, prov. Pomerania. cap. circle of same name, on the Divenow, 5 m. from its mouth on the shores of the Baltic, 38 m. N.N.E. Stettin. It is surrounded with walls, with three gates, and has three suburbs, a cathedral, built in 1124, two other churches, four poorhouses, and a spacious market-place. The inhabitants live chiefly by agriculture and fishing. Cammin is of Wendish origin, and was formerly the seat of a bishopric, which was suppressed in 1648. Pop. 3176. The CIRCLE, area, 478 geo. sq. m., with exception of the downs along the shores of the Baltic, is flat, and the soil a sandy loam. Pop. 34,636. CAMMORTON, par. Eng. Cumberland; 2880 ac. P. 941. CAMOLIN, a small tn. Ireland, co. of, and 21 m. N. Wexford, r bank, Bann ; consisting of one long regular street of stone houses on one side, and mud cabins on the other. Besides the parish church, it has a R. Catholic chapel, and a Methodist meeting-house. Pop. 561. CAMONICA, or VALLE CAMONICA, a valley, Austrian Italy prov. Bergamo, formed by two branches of a ramification | of the Rhsetian Alps, and stretching about 50 m. from N.N.E. I to S.S. W. along both branches of the Ollio, and as far as the Lake of Iseo. It lies in one of the chief lines of communica tion between Italy and the Tyrol, is in general well cultivated, and abounds in iron, gives indication both of copper and lead, and has quarries of finely variegated marble, gypsum, and slate. The inhabitants, iiow about 50,000, were anciently called Camuni. CAMORTA 575 CAM PEACHY CAMORTA, CAR MORTA, or NICAVARI, one of the Nicobar islands, Gulf of Bengal ; lat 8 2 N. ; Ion. 93 40 E. ; length, N. to S. 16 m.; breadth, 2 to 5 m. It is separated by a narrow channel from Noncowry, and along with that island forms Noncowry harbour, which is very capacious, and fit to shelter a large fleet from the winds. Camorta is lofty near the harbour, particularly on the W. side, where the principal village stands, at the foot of a precipice ; but towards the N. and the centre it is flat, and contains a rich soil, which not only affords good pasturage but spontaneously grows yams, pine apples, plantains, guavas, and sugar-canes. Near the S.W. point is a lagoon, which extends far into the island. In the forests are several sorts of poon trees fit for masts. Camorta, notwithstanding its fertility, is thinly inhabited. CAMPAGNA, a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Citra, 18 m. E.N.E. Salerno, surrounded by high mountains. It is the seat of a bishopric, and contains a superb cathedral, three parish churches, several convents, a college, an hospital, and a mont-de-piete ; and has some trade, and a large fair, held August 1. Pop. 8192. CAMPAGNA-m-RoMA, an extensive dist. Papal States, nearly corresponding with the ancient Latium, and with the modern deleg. Frosinone, and S.E. part of the comarca of Home. It stretches S.W. along the shores of the Mediter ranean, from the banks of the Tiber to Terracina, on the frontiers of Naples, and backwards to offsets of the Apennines ; greatest length, about 60 m. ; average length, 40 m. It is a low undulating tract, almost nowhere 200 ft. above the level of the sea ; of a gloomy and desolate appearance, abounding with swamps, which exhale pestilential malaria, and give the unhappy inhabitants exposed to them a frightful and disgust ing appearance, exhibiting all the united symptoms of dropsy, jaundice, and ague. Great part of this district must, in all ages, have been unhealthy ; but there cannot be a doubt that the desolation now extends over parts of the country once well cultivated and densely peopled. CAMPAGNATICO, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 15 m. N.E. Grosseto, on the summit and side of a hill 840 ft. above the sea, near r. bank, Ombrone ; tolerably well built, defended by a castle ; has an ancient parish church, muni cipal buildings, and several oil and wine presses. Pop. 994. CAMPAGNOLA, a vil. Italy, duchy, Modena, prov. of, and 12 m. N.N.E. Reggio. Pop. 2000. CAMPAN, a tn. France, dep. Hautes Pyrene es, 16 m. S.S.E. Tarbes, 1. bank, Adour, in the beautiful valley to I which it gives its name. The houses, mostly built of the marble found in the vicinity, are remarkably neat and clean. One street stretches along the river, and another along the : road to Bigorre. In the place or square is a handsome foun tain, with marble basins. Woollen stuffs and paper are manufactured. In the vicinity is a remarkable stalactite grotto, and green marble of a fine quality is obtained. Pop. 3442. CAMPANA, an isl. S. Pacific Ocean, off the W. coast of ! Patagonia ; S. extremity, in lat. 49 10 S.; Ion. 76 W. It is about 50 m. in length, N. to S., and 10 in breadth. CAMPANA (LA), a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 32 m. N.E. by E. Seville, 1. bank, Madre-Vieja, an affluent of the Guadalquiver. It has two squares, a parish church, two endowed schools, a townhall, insecure and unhealthy prison, public storehouse, cemetery, and several fountains. The inhabitants are engaged in weaving, brick-making, ex pressing oil, cultivating grain, and rearing cattle. Pop. 5380. CAMPANARIO, a tn. Spain, Estremadura, prov. of, and 62 m. E. by S. Badajos, 8 m. N.N.W. Castuera; with narrow, ill-built, and neglected streets ; a parish church, chapel of ease, two endowed schools, a town-house, and prison, and a deserted hospital. Manufactures: linen fabrics, es parto ropes, wine, and oil. Trade: grain, wool, and esparto. Pop. 5406. CAMPANET, a tn. Spain, isl. Majorca, 22 m. N.E. Palma, on a rising ground ; with well-built houses, a square, a parish church, townhouse, prison, two schools, and a ceme tery. Pop. 2188. CAMPANHA, a city, Brazil, prov. Minas Geraes, 230 m. N.W. Rio-de-Janeiro ; lat. 21 45 S. ; Ion. 46 50 W. The principal streets run N. and S., and others cross them at right angles ; houses chiefly of earth, and generally surrounded by gardens, contrasting curiously with the arid bare hills by which the town is encircled, cut up by the excavations whence the gold has been taken. It has a townhouse and prison, five churches, an hospital, a Latin and a primary school, and a theatre. In the vicinity are several thermal springs. Pop., engaged in agriculture and mining, 3000. CAMPBELL ISLAND, a mountainous isl., S. Pacific, 30 m. in circumference, 120 m. S. Auckland Islands; lat. (S. harbour) 52 34 24" S.; Ion. 169 12 42" E. (R.) ; dis covered, in 1810, by Frederick Hazelburgh, in the brig Per severance. It has several good harbours, of which two on the E. side are the best. Perseverance harbour, the more S. of these two, runs about 4 m. inland; the upper part land locked, with good anchorage for 100 ships to lie in safety; and wood and water in abundance ; rise and fall of tides, at neap, 43 inches. This island, like the Auckland group, is of volcanic formation ; and subject to sudden and violent squalls, the prostrate condition of the trees sufficiently indicating the prevailing power of the westerly storms. Its iron-bound coast, and rocky mountains, whose summits appear to the eye bare of vegetation, give it the aspect of a very desolate and unproductive rock ; and it is not until the quiet harbours are opened that any green hue, save a few grassy spots, is seen. In these narrow bays, a belt of brushwood, composed of trees in a very stunted state, form a verdant line close to the beach. (Hooker.) There are neither quadrupeds nor land- birds; but the albatross is plentiful, and seals are found on its coasts. (Ross s Antarctic Expedition.) CAMPBELTON. 1, A seaport tn., royal bor., and par. Scotland, co. Argyle. The TOWN stands on a loch or bay of same name; lat. 55 23 30" N.; Ion 5 35 30" W.; extend ing along the curved shore in the form of a crescent, the principal part, however, being on the S.W. side. It has two Established, one U. Presbyterian, and two Free churches, with Independent, Episcopal, and R. Catholic chapels, several week-dayand Sabbath schools, and a ragged school, established 1850. It has also an athenseum, and a handsome new jail. In the centre of the main street is an ancient stone cross or obelisk of the 12th century, supposed to have been brought from lona. The town is well supplied with water, by gravi tation, brought a distance of 1J m. ; and well lighted with gas. The mill-wright business is carried on to a considerable extent ; and there is a brass and iron foundry. The herring- fishery is prosecuted with activity, and so also is the white- fishing ; but the distillation of malt-whisky is the staple business of the place, there being 24 distilleries in the town and its immediate vicinity. The spirit is of superior quality, and brings a high price in the market; about 1,000,000 gallons are sent, annually, to Glasgow alone. There are good quays on either side of the harbour. The number of vessels regis tered at the port, in 1849, was 20 ; tonn. 1 1 54. Regular com - munication, by steam-vessels, is maintained with Glasgow and Ayr. The principal imports are barley, yeast, coals, timber, iron, and general merchandise ; the exports are whisky, malt, black cattle, sheep, and horses, turnips, beans, butter, cheese, and fish, and, formerly, potatoes. It unites with Oban, In- verary, Irvine, and Ayr, in sending a member to the House of Commons. Pop. (1841), including the village of Dalintober, which joins the town, 6790; (1851), 6829. The BAY or LOCH, as it is called, is about 2 m. in length, and about 1 m. in breadth, with a depth of 3 to 15 fathoms water. It is, at once, one of the most beautiful and secure harbours in the W. of Scotland, being land-locked by Davar Island. The PARISH, extending across all the peninsula, is about 1 1 m. by 9. Pop. (1841), 9634; (1851), 9330. 2, A borough tn. New S. Wales, co. Cumberland, 25 m. S.W. Sydney. Pop. 541. CAMPDEN-CHiPPiNG, a market tn. and par. England, co. Gloucester, 16 m. N.E. Cheltenham. The town lies in a fertile dell, surrounded by richly-wooded hills on all sides but the S.E. ; and consists chiefly of one street, about 1 m. long ; houses in general ancient, many of them, in the Elizabethan style. There are a parish church, and meeting-houses for Wesleyans and Baptists ; a free grammar-school, founded in 1487; a school for girls, and a national school for boys; and almshouses, endowed by the first Viscount Campden. The inhabitants are chiefly agriculturists. Area of par. 4660 ac. Pop. 2087. (Local Correspondent.) CAMPEACHY, cr CAMPECHB, a seaport tn. Central America, state of Yucatan, cap. dep. of same name ; lat. 19 50 N. ; Ion. 90 33 W. (R.) ; W. coast, peninsula of CAMPEGINE 576 CAMPO-MAIOR-DE-QUIXER\MOBIM. Yucatan, on a Lay of its own name, and strongly fortified. It is wholly built of hewn calcareous stone ; but the streets are narrow, irregular, ill-paved, and dirty. Most of the private houses are only of one story, but the public buildings on the square are of two stories, and are tastefully ornamented and painted. It contains six churches, and six convents, the walls of one of which bear the marks of the injury sustained by a siege in 1840. It has also a college, with six professors ; and a theatre, one of the most beautiful edifices in the town. The principal suburbs, each of which has its own church, are San Roman to the S., and Guadaloupe and San Francisco to the N. The market is well furnished with fruit, vegetables, and fish; but provisions are much dearer here than in the other parts of the State. The town derives its chief importance from the exportation of logwood, termed Campeachy-wood, and wax. The wood (Hmnatoyijlon Campechianum] is cut down in several places, but especially on the banks of the Rio Champoton, S. of the town ; and the wax is procured from the wild stingless bees which are found in the country to the E. The other products are salt, rice, and sugar ; marble of good quality is found. The only important manufacture is that of cigars. The harbour is capacious, but shallow, and vessels drawing more than 6 ft. must anchor 3 in. from the shore. Notwithstanding of this disadvantage, vessels measuring 100 feet of keel are built here, and launched by ingenious con trivances. The climate is healthy; and though the heat at noon is extreme, yet the land-breeze in the morning, and the sea-breeze in the evening, render the atmosphere at those periods exceedingly agreeable. During the rainy season, agues prevail. Campeachy stands on a series of subterranean caverns, excavated by the ancient Mayas. In the neighbour hood are numerous interesting ruins. Pop. 18,006. CAMPEGINE, a tn., duchy, Modena, dist. of, and about 8 m. W. Reggio, near the frontiers of Parma, r. bank, Enza. It is remarkable from the number of fountains which it con tains. Pop. about 2000. CAMPERDUIN, or CAMPERDOWN, sandy hills or downs, Holland, prov. N. Holland, between the N. sea and the small village of Camp, off which the British, under Admiral Dun can, gained a hard-won victory over the Dutch, under De Winter, October 11, 1797. CAMPL 1, a dist., Italy, Tuscany, in the Val d Arno, below Florence, containing several villages of the same name, the inhabitants of which are almost entirely employed in pre paring the fine Tuscan straw ; and, in consequence of the de mand for their staple, have, in recent times, rapidly increased. Pop. 9782. 2, a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Otranto, 9 m. W.N.W. Lecce ; with a handsome collegiate church. Pop. 4101. CAMPIGLIA-m-MAREMMA, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 34 m. N.W. Grosseto, 18 m. S. by E. Cecina; surrounded by walls, entered by four gates, and defended by a fortress. It has two churches, a large hospital, and municipal buildings ; two annual fairs are held in May and August. Pop. 3057. CAMPILLO, numerous tns. and vils. Spain, of which the chief are: 1, Campillo de Altobuey, a tn. New Castile, prov. of, and 35 m. S.E. by S. Cuenca ; with level, clean, and well-paved streets: a parish church, four conventual churches, two schools, a townhall, prison, and storehouse. Manufac tures : leather, oil, and wine, shoes, and sieves. An annual fair is held in September. Pop. 3149. 2, Campillo de Arenas, a tn. Andalusia, prov. of, and 16 m. S. by W. Jaen, having a church, townhouse, school, and prison. Pop. 1121. 3, Campillo de Llerena, a tn. Estremadura, prov. Badajos, 24 m. E.N.E. Llerena; possessing a church, townhall, and prison, two schools, a storehouse, and agricultural pop. of 1002. 4, Campillo de la Jara, a vil. New Castile, prov. of, and 58 m. S.W. by W. Toledo. Pop. 1012. 5, Campillo de lianas, a vil. New Castile, prov. of, and 29 m. N. by W. Guadalajara. Pop. 515. 6, Campillo, a vil., prov. of, and 28 m. N. by E. Leon. Pop. 416. (Madoz.) CAMPILLOS, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 35 m. N.W. by N. Malaga; in a plain, near the source of the brook liiricon. It has wide and paved streets, three squares, a large Doric parish church, a chapel, townhouse, prison, four schools, a poorhouse, extensive storehouse, fine fountain, and spacious cemetery. Manufactures : woollen fabrics, leather, oil, &c. Trade : wool, grain, fruits, cattle, and gypsum, the quarry in the neighbourhood. Pop. last extracted from 4410. CAMPINA-GRANDE, a tn. Brazil, prov. of, and 75 m. W.N.W. Paraiba. The greater number of its houses are of earth, except the new ones, and the townhall. It has a church and two schools; and, along with its district, suffers from a defective supply of water, which has, on various occasions, caused considerable emigrations. Pop. tn. and dist. 5000. CAMPINAS, a city, Brazil, prov. of, and 70 m. N. S3o Paulo, in a fertile sugar district, in which are numerous sugar- mills and distilleries the products from which are exported on mules to Santos. Pop. tn. and dist. GOOO. CAMPINE [Flemish, Kempen or Kempenland], an ex tensive arid and sandy tract, forming part of the provinces of Antwerp and Limburg, together with n narrow portion of Brabant, in Belgium, and continued into Holland. The greatest industry has been employed to reclaim it, but about 300,000 ac. still remain waste. See BELGIUM. CAMPIO FORMIO, or CAMPO FORMIDO, a market tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, prov. Friuli, dist. Udina, 66" m. N.E. Venice. It has a parish church, and numerous mills along the canal of Roja, and is famous for the peace of 1797, between Austria and France, which bears its name. Pop. 1650. CAMPLI, a tn. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra I., 5 m. N. Teramo. It has a cathedral, three churches, an abbey, several convents, an hospital, and a mont de-pitte. Pop. 7125. CAMPO. 1, A vil. Tuscany, S.W. coast, isl. Elba ; on a gulf of same name, 7 m. S.W. Porto Ferrajo. It contains a parish church. Pop. 1700. The name CAMPO is given to a considerable district of the S.W. part of the island, com mencing at Ancona. 2, A vil. and com. Naples, prov. Calabria Ultra I., dist. of, and 7 m. N.N.W. Reggio. The chief employment is the rearing of silk-worms. Pop. 1942. CAMPO, numerous tns. and vils. Spain: 1, Campo de Criptana, a tn. New Castile, prov. of, and 22 m. N.E. Ciudad- Real, in an extensive plain, at the foot of a small ridge or sierra; with well-built houses, clean, wide, and paved streets, a principal and six smaller squares, a spacious Gothic church, Latin and three endowed schools, an hospital, townhouse, police-court, prison, public storehouse, and cemetery. Weav ing, dyeing, expressing oil and wine, and husbandry, employ the people. Pop. 5230. 2, Campo, a tn. Estremadura, prov. Caceres, 12 m. N. Coria; with a church, townhall, three schools, a prison, and cemetery. Manufactures : linen fabrics, cloth, soap, oil, and wine. Pop. 2629. 3, Campo (Sta Maria del], a tn. New Castile, prov. of, and 38 m. S. by W. Cuenca ; possessing a church, townhouse, two endowed schools, and a prison. Pop. 1519. 4, Campo (Sta Maria del), a tn. Old Castile, prov. of, and 21 m. S.W. Burgos; having a church, townhall, Latin and two other schools, hospital, orphan asylum, prison, and cemetery. Pop. 991. 5, Campo, a vil. Valencia, prov. of, and 30 m. N. by W. Alicante. Pop. 1473. 6, Campo Frio, a vil. Andalusia, prov. of, and 40 m. N.N.E. Huelva. Pop. 828. (Madoz.) CAMPO- LARGO, n tn. Brazil, prov. Bahia, 1. bank, Rio Grande, about 90 m. above its junction with the Sao Francisco ; lat. 12 50 S. ; Ion. 45 10 W. ; with a church, townhouse, prison, and primary school. Pop. tn. and dist. chiefly labourers, 3000. CAMPO-MAIOR, a tn. Brazil, prov. Piauhi, 152 m. S.S.W. Parnaiba, on the Surubim, near a lake abounding in fish. It has two churches, a school, and resident magistrates. Its district is large, watered by the river Longa, and the streams Surubim and Martahoau. Pop., engaged in agricul ture and cattle-rearing, 5000. CAMPO- MAIOR-DE-QUIXERAMOBIM, a tn. Brazil, in terior of prov. Ceara, 180 m. S.S.W. Forte or Ceara; lat. 6 10 S. ; Ion. 39 20 W. ; r. bank, Quixeramobim an affluent of the Jaguaribe. Like all others in the interior of this province, it is a poor town ; but still, both its trade and I population are increasing. It has a beautiful church, a town- house, prison, a primary and a Latin school. Its territory is traversed by rivers and rivulets that dry up annually; the lower grounds are not arable, but the higher ones are i ertile. In the warm and the rainy season, the inhabitants descend to the level country, and feed numerous herds of cattle, which find a ready market in Pernambuco. Pop. tn. and dist. 8000. CAMPO- MAYOR 577 CANADA CAMPO-MAYOR, a fortified tn. Portugal, prov. Alem- tejo, on the Spanish frontiers, dist. of, and 12 m. N.N.E. Elvas, and 15 ra. N.W. Badajos. The streets are narrow and dirty ; it has a church, two convents, an hospital, and a workhouse. In 1723 the gunpowder magazine accidentally blew up, destroying a great part of the town and castle, and killing many of the inhabitants. It was taken by the Spaniards in 1801. Pop. 4618. Several other small places in Por tugal have the name of CAMPO. CAMPO SAN PIETRO, or CAMPO SAMPIEERO, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, deleg. of, and 12 m. N.N.E. Padua, r. bank, Musone. It has manufactures of linen, and several tanneries. Pop. 2400. CAMPO SANTO, a tn., duchy, Modena, gov. of, and 15 m. N.N.E. the town of Modena, 1. bank, Panaro. It has an annual fair of three days. A fierce battle was fought here, between the Spaniards and Austrians, in 1743. Pop. 2000. CAMPOS, a tn. Spain, isl. Majorca, 22 m. E.S.E. Palma, 6 m. from the sea. The houses are generally well built ; and the town contains a square, parish church, handsome chapel, two schools, a townhouse, and cemetery. Manufactures : linen fabrics, brandy, wine, oil, and refined salt. Trade : fruit, brandy, and salt. There are thermal springs and baths in the environs. Pop. 2796. Several other places in Spain have the same name. CAMPOS-Dos- GOITACAZES, or SAO SALVADOR-DOS- CAMPOS, a city, Brazil, prov. Itio-de-Janeiro, on a plain, r. bank, Parahiba, 20m. W. Sao-Joao-da- Praia ; lat. 21 40 S.; Ion. 41 30 W. It contains 1 500 houses, chiefly of earth, only the principal streets are paved, but all are lighted with lamps. It has a townhall, prison, several churches, a primary and a Latin school ; and a school of mathematics, philosophy, rhetoric, and French. The port only admits small vessels ; and, during the rains, when the river is swollen, many small coasters arrive. An active trade with Rio -de -Janeiro is carried on in sugar, coffee, brandy, building materials, &c. The district is extensive ; sugar is the chief crop, though rice, millet, beans, and mandioc, are also raised ; and a con siderable number of cattle and horses reared. Pop. tn., 4000, dist. 40,000. CAMPOS- NO VOS, a vil. Brazil, prov. Rio-de-Janeiro, dist. of, and 20 m. N. Cabo Frio. A small place, in a ruinous condition. CAMPOBASSO, a tn. Naples, cap. prov. Sannio, on a hill-slope, 52 m. N.E. Naples. It is fortified, and is the seat of criminal and civil courts ; has a collegiate church, four parish churches, several convents, two colleges, an hospital, and an almshouse. The cutlery manufactured here is said to be the best in Naples. The town is favourably placed for business, on the road from the capital to the Adriatic. Two fairs are held annually. Pop. 8330. CAMPOBELLO, a fertile isl. New Brunswick, at the mouth of Passamaquoddy Bay; lat. 44 57 N.; Ion. 66 55 W. (R.) ; with a light on its N. point 60 ft. high, separated on the S.W. from Lubec by a strait, called the Narrows. This island is about 9 m. long, and from 1 to 3 broad ; is for the most part in a state of cultivation, has several fine harbours, particularly that of Harbour de Lute ; produces timber, and carries on a considerable trade in fish and gypsum. CAMPOBELLO, a ta. Sicily, Val di Trapani, dist. Maz- zara. Pop. 2985. CAMPOLIETO, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Molise or Sannio, dist. of, and 9 m. N.E. Campobasso. It occupies two small hills, and makes a very good wine. Pop. 2410. CAMPOSANO, a vil. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, dist. of, and 2 m. N. Nola. The chief employment is the rearing of silk-worms. In August there is an annual fair, which lasts three days. Pop. 1495. CAMPSALL, par. and vil. Eng. York, W. Riding ; houses of stone; 9390 ac. Pop. 2149. CAMPSEY-ASH, par. Eng. Suffolk; 1900 ac. Pop. 374. CAMPSIE, a vil. and par. Scotland, co. Stirling. The VILLAGE is 10m. N. Glasgow, picturesquely situated at the base of the Campsie fells, hills of moderate elevation. Near the village are the Kirkton glen, and Fin glen, much visited from Glasgow and the surrounding country, for their pic turesque beauty. The PARISH, 7 m. by 6 m., is rich in coal and alum, and has extensive printfields, bleachfields, and chemical works. Pop. 6402; (1851), 6918. VOL. I. CAMPTON, par. Eng. Bedford ; 1 120 ac. Pop. 1390. CAMROSE, par. Wales, Pembroke. Pop. 1210. CAMSINGMOON, a seaport, China, prov. Kwang-tong or Canton, about half-way between Macao and Bocca Tigris ; on a small island, called Keeow, 35 m. N. Hong-kong ; lat. 22 30 N.; Ion. 113 40 E. It has a tolerable harbour, which used to be much resorted to by opium vessels, and now serves as a convenient depot. Since 1844, a considerable native trading town has sprung up about it. There is a European hotel in the place. Pop. about 5000. CAMTOOS RIVER, a river, Cape of Good Hope, S.E. coast, dist. Uitenhage ; one of the largest rivers in the colony. Ft is formed by the junction of the Salt and Karrepka rivers, which unite at lat. 33 5 S. ; Ion. 22 35 E. From this point it flows in a S.S.E. direction, and falls into St. Francis Bay, in lat. 34 S. ; Ion. 25 7 E. ; entire course, about 105 m.; its largest tributary is the Kouga, which joins it about 30 m. from its embouchure. It is about 220 yards wide a little above its mouth, its waters beautifully clear, and its 1. bank is here skirted by a chain of wooded hills. The Camtoos was, at a former period, the E. limit of the colony. CAMUS, par. Irel. Tyrone ; 7506 ac. Pop. 6039. CANADA, an extensive territory, N. America, belonging to the British, formerly divided into two provinces, called, respectively, Upper and Lower, or Western and Eastern, Canada, separated by the Ottawa ; but now politically united, though still differing in laws, customs, and manners. The entire territory presents an approximation to the form of an equilateral triangle, the base of which may be con sidered as being represented by the 50th parallel of N. lat., and the apex by Point Pelee the termination of a long pen insula which projects into Lake Erie ; lat. 41 47 N. Tho extreme E. point is generally deemed to be Cape Gaspe in the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; Ion. 64" 10 W. (R.) The W. limit is undetermined, but is supposed to extend to about lou, 90 or 90 30 W. The E. side of the triangle to which the general outline of the territory has been assimilated, and which comprises Lower or E. Canada, and the peninsular portion of W. Canada, is formed by the N. shores of Lakes Erie and Ontario, and the river St. Lawrence, to about Ion. 70 W., after which the State of Maine and New Brunswick mark its S.E. limit. The W. side, again, comprising Upper or W. Canada, is formed by the N. shores of Lakes Superior and Huron. The length of the former, from S.W. to N.E., is about 600 m., breadth about 300 m. ; length of the latter, from S.E. to N.W., about 750 m. ; breadth, between 200 and 300 m., exclusive of the peninsular portion, which terminates in Lake Erie, and which is 280 m. in length, with an average breadth of between 40 and 50 m. The entire length of the territory, that is, of both Canadas, from E. to W. or from Cape Gaspe to Ion. 90 30 W., is from 1200 to 1300 m., and its average breadth, from N. to S., between 200 and 300 m. It is but proper to add, that, as the boundaries of Canada are not precisely determined on any side but the S., various limits will be found assigned to it by various authorities in all other directions. Upper Canada, though by no means so level as it has been represented, is characterized by a general evenness of surface there being few great elevations, with exception of a table ridge of considerable height, which stretches S.E. and N.W., forming a water-shed between Lakes Superior and Huron, to which it runs parallel at a distance of about 70 m., and the S. portion of Hudson s Bay, called St. James s Bay. A similar water-shed traverses Lower Canada also, as is indicated by the opposite courses of its rivers a series of which flow S.S.E. towards the St. Lawrence, while another pours into St. James s Bay both emanating from a common centre. The existence of this water-shed has, however, been doubted ; and it has been alleged as not improbable, that the rivers here, as in other parts of N. America, have their origin in Jakes which lie in a plain of a nearly level surface, and are situate at nearly the same elevation above the level of the sea. Upper Canada, though much more fertile than Lower Canada, is inferior to it as regards romantic and picturesque scenery. The physical features of the latter, generally, are varied and grand, consisting of boundless forests, magnificent rivers and lakes, extensive prairies, bold, rocky heights, and foaming cataracts, diversified by cultivated fields, pretty villages and settlements, some of them stretching up along 73 CANADA CANADA mountains , fertile islands, with neat white cottages, rich pas tures, and well-fed flocks. This beautiful appearance, how ever, changes to a very different character in winter. After a heavy fall of snow, succeeded by rain and a partial thaw, a strong frost coats the trees and all their branches with trans parent ice, often an inch thick, weighing on them so heavily, that in a tempest whole forests are laid prostrate, with tremen dous noise and uproar. Nothing, however, can be imagined more brilliant and beautiful than the effect of sunshine in a calm day, on the frozen boughs, where every particle of the icy crystals sparkles, and nature seems decked in diamonds. Mountains, Hirers, and Lakes. The mountains of Canada are confined entirely to Lower or E. Canada, the elevations in the W. province not attaining that dignity. The principal ranges stretch from S.W. to N.E., and lie nearly parallel to each other. They consist of the Green Mountains, so called from the pine forests that cover their slopes, which, from the latitude of Quebec, follow nearly the course of the St. Law rence, on the S. side of which they are situated, and terminate on the gulf of the same name, between the Bay of Chaleur and Gaspe Point. On the N. side of the river is a corresponding range, which forms undulating ridges of about 1000 ft. in elevation, the Mealy Mountains, stretching from about lat. 75 C W., to Sandwich Bay, computed to be about 1500 ft. high, and always covered with snow, and the Wotchish Mountains, a short range of crescent form, between the Gulf of St. Law rence and Hudson s Bay. The rocky masses connected with the mountain chains that line the St. Lawrence river, advance in many places close to the stream, forming precipitous cliffs, frequently 200 and 300 ft. high. The rivers of Canada, as elsewhere remarked, N. of the St. Lawrence, and the lakes, nearly all flow either N. or S., as they originate in the N. or S. slopes of the water-shed, by which both provinces are traversed, the one from N.W to S.E., the other from S.W. to N.E. As this elevated ground approaches nearer to the lakes, and to the St. Lawrence, than to Hudson s Bay, it follows that the rivers which flow towards the latter have a much longer course, and, generally, a much greater volume of water, than those that fall into the former. The principal rivers in Lower Canada are the St. Lawrence, which issues from the N.E. end of Lake Ontario, and which, after passing lat. 45 N., is wholly within the province of Lower Canada, forming, previously to its reaching that point, the boundary line between Upper Canada and the State of New York ; the Ottawa, which forms the boundary between Lower and Upper Canada, issues from Lake Temiscaming ; lat. 47 18 N. ; Ion. 79 35 W. ; although its remotest sources are said to be 100 m. further N. It falls into the St. Law rence at Montreal, after a course probably of 350 to 400 m. ; and is now navigable for about 90 m. from its embouchure ; its scenery, particularly during the latter part of its course, is singularly picturesque and beautiful, enhanced by magni ficent cataracts, and numerous richly-wooded islands. The Seguenay, which issues from Lake St. John ; lat. 48 15 N., also falls into the St. Lawrence, near Tadousac, after a course of about 1 00 m. The St. Maurice, or Three Rivers, originates in some small lakes, in lat. 47 N., and joins the St. Lawrence about 70 m. above Quebec ; its whole course is about 180 m., of which 110 or 115 m. are navigable by boats, from the mouth upwards ; its banks are generally high, in some places from 200 to 1000 ft., and covered with large groups of majestic trees, and it has a great, variety of falls and cascades, and is adorned with a number of beautiful islands. Other rivers of less note, though still of considerable size, but too numerous to be particularized here, debouch on the N. shores of the St. Lawrence, below the Seguenay. The same, or nearly the same, may be said of the S. side of the estuary, where the principal rivers are the Richelieu, Chaudiere, and the St. Francis ; all tributaries, also, of the St. Lawrence, joining it from the S. The Richelieu flows from the N. extremity of Lake Champlain, in the State of New York, and joins the St. Lawrence at the head of Lake St. Peter. It is navigable for boats for 80 m. The banks of the Chaudiere, like those of most of the rivers in Lower Canada, are high and steep, and thickly clothed with wood, which, in many places, over hang its foaming rapids with the most picturesque effect. The St. Francis flows through a country of great beauty, diver sified by hill and dale, forest and meadow, river and lake. The principal rivers of Upper Canada occur in the penin sular portion which projects into Lake Erie. These are the Thames and the Ouse ; the former originates in the district of London, by the union of several streams, about lat. 43 N. : Ion. 81 15 W., and falls into Lake St. Clair, after a S. and S.W. course of about 80 m. It is navigable for large vessels to Chatham, 18 m. up, and for boats nearly to its source. The Ouse rises in the Home district, about lat. 44 N. ; Ion. 80 lO W., and, after a S. and S.E. course of about 100 m., falls into the N.E. corner of Lake Erie. Numberless streams of smaller size, and of which the Trent is the principal, drain the Can adian sides of Lakes Ontario and Erie. The chief rivers that flow towards Hudson s Bay are the Albany, Moose, Harricanna, and Rupert. The lakes of Canada are extremely numerous the entire surface being thickly dotted with sheets of water, of various dimensions, interwoven with a net-work of connecting streams. The larger are Lakes Superior, Huron, Erie, and Ontario, none of which, however, belong exclusively to Canada, being equally within the territory of the United States ; their N. and S. shores forming, respectively, the N. and S. boundaries of these countries. (For more full details regarding the lakes and rivers of Canada, see the several Articles wider their re spective names.} Geolotjy, Mineralogy, &c. The N; parts of Canada, so far as known, appear to be of crystalline formation ; while along the banks of the St. Lawrence, and the N. shores of the lakes, the primary stratifications prevail, including limestone in a great variety of states. The banks of the St. Lawrence arc, in several places, composed of schist, in a decaying or moulder ing condition ; and in every quarter granite is found, more or less inclined, but never parallel to the horizon. In the Gaspe district the most E. part of Canada numerous and beautiful specimens of quartz have been obtained, including a great variety of carnelian, agate, opal, and jasper ; indications of coal have also been traced. The limestone formation extends over 30,000 sq. m. ; the dip is moderate, and the strata of limestone generally undisturbed. In the extensive region of the Ottawa, the limestone is invariably highly crystalline, and sometimes very coarse-grained in its structure ; at other times its texture is so fine as to form statuary marble. Fossil organic remains are numerous. Along the shores of the estuary and Gulf of St. Lawrence, horizontal banks of recent shells appear at various heights, from 10 to 100 ft. above high water mark, and inland beeches of sand and shingle, with similar shells, as also elevated limestone rocks, scooped out by the waves, and showing lines of lithodomous perforations all indicating the successive upheaving of the land, since the sea was inhabited by the existing species of testacea. Earthquakes have been frequent in Canada, and some of them of consider able violence. The most tremendous on record commenced on the evening of February 5, 1663, and is said to have con tinued at intervals for six months, extending from Quebec to the river Seguenay, a distance of about 120 m. Other accounts say that it extended more than 600 m. in length, and about 300 m. in breadth agitating a surface of 180,000 sq. m. Earthquakes of a less violent character, but offeree sufficient at times to split walls and throw down chimneys, are very frtquent on the shore of the estuary of the St. Law rence. One of these occurred in December 1 7 9 1 , in St. Paul s Bay, about 55 m. N.E. Quebec, and the inhabitants say that about every 25 years, a violent earthquake returns, which lasts 40 days. Iron of the best quality has been found in great abundance in Canada ; silver in small quantities, and lead, tin, and copper, occur in several places. The latter seems to abound most on Lake Superior, where one mine alone (Cliffe mine), yielded, in 1848, 1000 tons. Marble, of many beautiful varieties, litho graphic stone, and gypsum, are also found in the W. province. Climate. If latitude alone determined the temperature of the atmosphere, the climate of the Canadas would resemble that of Central and S. Europe ; but, through the operation of the numerous disturbing influences by which temperature is affected, it is nearly the same with the climates of Norway, Sweden, St. Petersburg, and the S. parts of Iceland the iso thermal line diverging far to the N. of the parallels of latitude that connect it with the old Continent. Both the heat of summer and the cold of winter are much greater than in the corresponding latitudes of Europe the thermometer ranging between 102 above, and 36 below, the zero of Fall. ; but, in CANADA 579 CANADA the districts adjoining the great lakes on its S. border, the climate is much milder, and more equable, than that of places more remote a natural consequence of the presence of great expanses of water. The prevailing winds in the Canadas are the N.E., N. W., and S. VV. the last being the most frequent. The azure of the Canadian skies is remarkable for its purity and transparency, while fogs are almost unknown. In Lower Canada the winter commences about the latter end of Novem ber, and lasts until the end of April, when agricultural opera tions are resumed ; during this period the frost is generally intense, with N. winds, and a clear atmosphere. In Upper Canada the winter is considerably shorter, and the sledge, or sleighing season, which, in Lower Canada, generally continues for five months together, scarcely lasts two in the upper pro vince. The average depth of snow that falls in the course of the winter is about 30 inches, but is frequently accumu lated to far greater depths during snow storms and drifts. Generally speaking, the climate of Upper or W. Canada is much milder than that of Lower or E. Canada owing chiefly to its being nearer the great lakes. Here, spring is at least a month or six weeks earlier than in Quebec and Montreal ; and the extremes and sudden variations of temperature are much less intense. Indeed, winters in some localities in Upper Canada sometimes pass away with scarcely any snow at all, and with a very moderate degree of cold circumstances which never occur in the lower province. The sudden and great fluctuations of temperature to which the climate of the Canadas is subject, form one of its most remarkable charac teristics, a change of 30 in 24 hours, or less, being frequent ; while it is rare that the weather continues the same for more than three or four days at a time. Notwithstanding this, no climate in the world is more salubrious, or more conducive to longevity contagious disorders or fatal epidemics being almost unknown ; while, from the greater dryness of the climate, persons suffer far less from coughs and colds than they do in England. From the same cause, the surface of the country, in the latter part of the summer and autumn, has not that beautiful verdant appearance which is so attractive in a moist climate, like that of England ; but this want is amply compensated by the magnificence and splendour of the various tints of the forest, at the close of the summer season. The climate, up to 50 N. lat., is singularly favourable to the growth of most of the cereals, particularly wheat, oats, maize, and barley ; although, in the lower province, the field labours of the farmer are interrupted for five months in the year, but in the upper for a considerably shorter period. Vegetable Productions, Agriculture, &c. In Lower Canada, as in all cold countries, vegetation is necessarily rapid, the foliage of the forest being often unfolded in great luxuriance in the course of a fortnight. In Upper Canada, where the suddenness of the transition from winter to summer is not so great, the budding and blowing are rather more gradual than in the Lower province. The greater portion of both pro vinces is covered by forests consisting chiefly of white and red pine, the former of which frequently attains the height of 100 ft. to the first branch, and occasionally 200 ft. Im mense quantities of this timber are annually sent to England. The other kinds of timber are ash, of various species, black and white birch, beech, elm, hickory, sugar-maple, birds eye or curled-maple, butternut tree, black walnut, wild cherry tree (Laurus cerasus), bass-wood or lime tree ; on rich moist ground, the white sycamore and button-wood tree ; in the marshes, alder, spotted alder, willow, and varieties of thorn ; and in the swamps, red and white cedar, and tamarack. There are, besides, spruce fir, Scotch fir, larch, black oak, and several other varieties. Of shrubs, there are many kinds, amongst which is the shumach. Flowers of great beauty and variety abound the woods in summer being crowded with them ; they comprise many kinds now cultivated in English gardens, such as the scarlet lobelia, blue lupin, purple gentian, columbine, scarlet and other honeysuckles, and a host of others. Amongst the wild fruits are the wild cherry, wild grapes, black and red currants, gooseberries, raspberries, cranberries, large quantities of which are exported ; plums, strawberries, nuts, &c. ; many of these, however, are inferior to the cultivated fruits of the same species. Nearly all the vegetables and fruits of England thrive in the Canadas, par ticularly in the W. province, under proper cultivation. In the S. parts, peaches and apples are produced in such abund ance, that the former have been sold for a quarter of a dollar per bushel, and the latter for three half-pence. Pumpkins and squashes grow in the open fields to an enormous size, often attaining the weight of 50 or 80 Ibs. The extent of occupied land in Western or Upper Canada, in 1848, was 8,613,591 ac., of which 1,780,152 ac. were under tillage, and 766,768 in pasture, the remainder uncultivable, or in a state of nature, with exception of a portion appropri ated to gardens, town plots, &c. Of the ground under the plough, there were 593,695 ac. in wheat, 38,542 rye, 29,324 barley, 285,571 oats, 82,516 pease, 51,997 maize, 26,653 buck wheat, and 56,796 potatoes ; making altogether 1,165,094 ac. under crop. The live stock amounted, in the same year , to 565,845 horned cattle, 151,389 horses, 833,807 sheep, 484,2 11 hogs. Dairy produce : 3,380,406 Ibs. butter, and 668,357 Ibs. cheese. The returns for Eastern or Lower Canada are neither so recent nor so satisfactory as those for the Western Province. The returns for 1844 (there having been none for 1848), gives 2,802,317 ac. as under cultivation; but the whole produce in grain amounted only to 11,445,727 bushels, and in potatoes to 9,918,869 bushels. Of the grain,- 942,835 bushels only were wheat, while in 1831 this crop amounted to 3,404,756 bushels, showing a decrease of 2,461,921 bushels. Live stock in the same year: horned cattle, 469,851; horses, 146,726; sheep, 602,821; swine, 197,935. W T heat is the chief article cultivated by the Canadian farmer, but in the Lower Province there is not sufficient of even that crop raised as maintain the population, the deficiency being made up by importation from Upper Canada. Farming, until within a comparatively recent period, was in a very backward state in the Canadas. Bouchette, who wrote nearly 20 years since (1832), says The improvements that have been introduced in the European systems of agriculture are unknown in Canada, or, at least, have never been adopted ; and the Canadian farmer is still seen guiding the old-fashioned plough used by his forefathers. The scientific rotation of crops is unknown to him, and he steadily pursues the system handed down to him by his ancestors. All this, however, is now much changed, especially in Upper Canada. Within the last few years, agriculture has begun to keep pace with the improve ments introduced into Eagland and Scotland. The emigra tion into the country of scientific agriculturists, with the establishment of agricultural societies, have been mainly instrumental in effecting this great change ; stock of a dif ferent and better description has been imported, and much land that was previously considered by the old proprietors worn out, has been improved and brought back, by means of judicious treatment, to its old capabilities. In order to give an impetus to the progress of improvement in agricul ture in Upper Canada, Government holds out every encour agement, including pecuniary aid, to the formation of agri cultural societies in that province. The most usual period for sowing in spring is April, reaping commencing about the middle of August ; but the time of both operations is liable to fluctuations, being dependent on the mildness or rigour of the weather. Though in general sowing in Canada is later than in the N. parts of Britain ; the harvest is earlier gathered, in consequence of the greater warmth of the climate in summer. The other agricultural productions of Canada, besides those already mentioned, are hemp, flax, tobacco, and maple sugar. Of the first three, very small quantities only are produced; but of the last, the quantity is very considerable, amounting on an average to upwards of 4,000,000 Ibs. annually. The quantity of wool produced in 1848 amounted to 2,339,756 Ibs., the average fleece being 2 Ibs. Animals. Bears, wolves, beavers, foxes, racoons, otters, martens, minks, and musk-rats are to be met with in Canada, but the first three are exceedingly rare, and all the others are rapidly diminishing in numbers. The lynx and wild cat were also formerly tenants of the territory, but have now gone further N. Deer were at one period plentiful, but are also be coming scarce. Squirrels of different colours and species are extremely abundant, and are eagerly sought after, being con sidered excellent eating. Wild swans, wild turkeys, wood cocks, and snipes are occasionally met with; pigeons are plentiful in spring and autumn ; ducks of many varieties, and wild geese also abound. Among the smaller feathered tribe are many beautiful birds jays, woodpeckers, and blackbirds CANADA CANADA of numerous and beautiful varieties ; two species of humming birds, one of a golden green, the other having a crimson throat. Some of these, however, are summer birds only, migrating in autumn. Besides these, there are eagles, kites, hawks, horned owls, herons, bitterns, and crows. Snakes are numer ous, but the venomous kinds are not so plentiful as in the U. States. Amongst the latter are the rattlesnake, adder, and the copper head. Wild bees are numerous. In the lakes and rivers the principal fish are the sturgeon, which is frequently taken of from 80 to 100 Ibs. weight; the lake or salmon trout, which attains a weight of from 10 to 50 Ibs. ; the white fish, the most delicious fish in the lakes, pike, pickerel, bass, markelonge or masquenonge, also a fine fish, sometimes weighing 50 lb" ; cat-fish, suckers, perch, eels, speckled trout, and lake herrings, a flabby and indifferent fish. Commerce, Trade, and Manufactures. Timber forms the principal article of export, extending to many millions of feet annually. Large quantities of barrelled beef and pork, flour, barley, oatmeal, wheat, butter, pease, pot and pearl ashes, furs, wool, staves, and lumber, are also exported. In this last trade, the lumber trade, as it is called, a vast amount of capital is invested, in erecting saw-mills, log-ponds, &c. The total ex ports from Canada in the year 1853, amounted to 5,950,325, 16s.; the imports to 7,995,359. The principal imports by sea consist of wines, spirits, molasses, coffee, tea, tobacco, salt, refined and muscovado sugars. i,xpo ChMU. Total Valu,-.. Griatliritnin. Australia. British America. United States. Other Region 3 d. i. d. * d s d. & 3. d. S d Produce of the Mine 27,339 3 2 8,440 18,899 3 2 Produce of the Sen 85,000 13 & 8,801 15 15,072 14 4 18,355 12 5 42,770 11 11 Produce of the 1 orest Animals aud their Produce. ... 2,355,255 2 2 342,621 7 1 632,125 12 1 38,991 3 7 4,445 16 11 6,466 5 2 41,926 19 3 652,541 4 a 201,713 4 2 9,673 3 7 Vegetable Food Other Agricultural Products 4,995,0 J4 15 9 26,618 17 11 502,160 4 8 3,061 273,068 16 7 124 1,219,801 14 6 23,433 17 11 400 Manufactures 35,106 9 887 10 380 6,891 5 8 26,957 13 4 Other articles 15,823 11 3 1,707 4 220 1,566 6 11 11,330 4 Total 4882,869 19 11 2,246,164 9 4 5,045 16 11 315,116 7 11 2,234,095 10 3 52,447 15 6 To the item of manufactures exported, we are warranted to add the ships, &c., built during the year, on foreign (chiefly British) account. Their total tonnage was 49,615, and if we assume their average price to have been 12, 10s. per ton, then an additional value accrues of 620,187, 10s. Further, to the value of exports from inland ports, add 20 per cent. = 447,263, 5s., and we have the grand total, 5,950,325. 15s. In 1852 it was 3,826,091 ; in 1851, 3,452,651. Official returns of the commerce of the six principal ports f Canada, in two recent years : KXPOKTS. IMPORTS. 1850. 1853. !8iO. 1853 Quebec 1,297,523 ..23,443,4(7 Quebec .. .. 191,139. ..1,141,591 Montreal... 436,193... 883,722 Montreal... 1,726,356... 3,381,539 Toronto.... 67,557... 221,490 Toronto 634.722... 1,605,056 Hamilton... 88,222... 206,719 Hamilton... 395,782... 886,377 Dalhousie... 79,528... 182,188 Kingston... 87,662... 212,348 St. John s... 303,959... 161,109 Stanley 33,849... 131,066 In 1853 the total number of vessels registered as belonging to Canada was sailing vessels, 694; aggregate tonnage, 81,809 : steamers, 91 ; aggregate tonnage, 9,353. Cider and ale are brewed, and whisky distilled in arreat quan tities in Upper Canada. Maple sugar," flannels, and linens, are also manufactured to a great extent by the peasantry. The first amounted, in 1847, to 6,463,845 Ibs., of which by far the greater portion was produced in Upper Canada. The inland trade of Canada will, doubtless, be much improved when the various lines of railway now in contemplation, and for some of which charters have been already obtained, shall have been completed. In the meantime it is conducted chiefly by its numerous canals, some of which are stupendous achievements. The principal are the Rideau and Welland Canals. The first is 135 m. long, extending from Lake Ontario, at Kingston, to the Ottawa at Chaudiere, and is large enough to receive vessels of 120 tons burthen. The Welland Canal, which has been recently enlarged, unites Lakes Erie and Ontario. It is 45 ft. wide at the bottom, and 10 ft. deep. The other more noticeable canals are the Cornwall Canal, 12 m. long, avoids some of the most violent rapids of the St. Lawrence ; the Beauharnois Canal, about the same length, unites the Lakes St. Francis and St. Louis ; the Lachine Canal, extends from Lake St. Louis to Montreal ; the Chambly Canal, uniting Lake Champlain with the Richelieu River, and a number of others of lesser note, many of them short cuts to avoid the rapids of I rivers. Both the internal and external trade of the Canadas are likely to be greatly benefited by the railway from Halifax, Nova Scotia, to Quebec, which has at last (1851) been sanc tioned by Government, and a guarantee given of a fixed interest on the outlay required for its construction. This important line will give the Canadas the advantage, all winter, of an open seaport, of which they have hitherto been desti tute, from the freezing of the St. Lawrence. People, Manners, Customs, <tc. The Upper Province, or Canada W., is settled principally by emigrants, and the descendants of emigrants, from Great Britain and Ireland. There are also large numbers of U. States loyalists, or persons who fought on the side of Great Britain during the American war, a mixture of all nations, and their descendants ; and in particular locr.lities there are large settlements of Pennsyl- vanian Dutch ; and there are also many Americans scattered over the country. The Irish have rather a majority in the province, and next to them the English. In Lower or E. Canada, the majority of the inhabitants Qiabitans) are of French origin, mostly descendants of settlers from Normandy, established in the colony previously to 1759, and to whom they still bear in many particulars a close resemblance. They are civil, polite, and hospitable, but illiterate, litigious, want ing in energy, and obstinately attached to old habits and usages, to the exclusion of all improvement. They are all in comfortable circumstances, being mostly proprietors of land, and living on the produce of their own properties. Theii houses are sometimes built of stone, but generally of wood, and only one story high. The walls outside are white-washed, which imparts to them, particularly in summer, when almost everything else is green, a lively and cleanly appearance. Each contains a large kitchen, one good sitting-room, and as many sleeping apartments as may be thought necessary. Some of the houses have verandahs, and a small orchard and garden are often attached. The sitting-room or parlour, and bed-rooms, are lined with smoothly planed boards, and painted blue, red, green, yellow, &c. Till recently the chief clothing of the population was wholly of their own manufacture, but the cheapness of English goods has induced a partial use of the latter. Canadian cloth is, however, still almost univer sally used; and the gray capote of the habitant is the character istic costume of the country. The capote is a large coat reach ing to the knee, bound round the waist by a sash of the gayest colours. This, with a straw-hat in summer, a "bonnet rouge or a fur cap in winter, and a pair of mocassins, complete the dress of the French Canadian. The women are clothed nearly after the fashion of French females in a similar condition of life. The habitans of the poorer classes are generally tall and thin, with small, dark, lively eyes, aquiline noses, and thin lips. Those who are much exposed to the air are as dark as Indians. The women, when young, are handsome brunettes. The enjoyments of the people, as in all R. Catholic countries, are connected with their religious ceremonies. On Sundays, accordingly, after service, the day is devoted to festivity. The easy and comfortable condition of the population, gener ally, enables the Jiabitaiis to spend more time in pleasure and recreation than perhaps any other people. It is owing to this that the greater part of them cease from serious labour during the winter, and devote that season to visiting and merry-making. Unfortunately, deep-rooted feelings of es trangement, amounting to positive aversion, subsist between CANADA 581 CANADIAN KIVER the French and English Canadians, arising, chiefly, from na tional prejudices, which have already led, and will, probably, again lead to the most unhappy consequences. The Indians, who were the aboriginal inhabitants of the Canadas, are now nearly exterminated. A few reduced tribes, however, still occupy portions of the country. In Upper Canada they are met with on Lakes Superior and Huron, and thence towards the N. boundaries. In Lower Canada some of them occupy a reserved space on Lake St. Francis (an expansion of the St Lawrence, 10 m. above Montreal) and others reside in villages throughout the country; all leading a life of misery and starvation. They are described as contesting for the carcases of the most worthless animals, after the latter have been stripped of their skins by the Canadian hunter. It has been further stated, that the num ber of the unfortunate Indians who die of hunger and want would be yet more considerable, if the humanity of the ser vants of the Company of the Posts did not frequently supply their wants. Amongst the tribes in this unhappy condition are the Hurons, the most intelligent, the bravest, the noblest, and once the most powerful of the North American Indians. Government and Revenue. The province of Canada, as men tioned in the beginning of this article, formerly consisted of two provinces, which were united under one legislature, in 1840, with the view, chiefly, of extinguishing the dominancy of the French party, whose greater political influence had hitherto been extremely detrimental to the general interests of the colony; an effect, however, which does not seem to have been accomplished by the measure. The form of the existing Government is popular, being in imitation of that of the United Kingdom. The executive power is wielded by the Governor-general, who is appointed by the Crown, and is assisted in his administration of affairs by an executive coun cil, the members of which are appointed by the Governor, and the tenure of their offices depends upon their receiving the support of the Provincial Parliament of United Canada. The members, of the executive council, must hold seats in either branch of the Provincial Parliament. The Provincial House is called the legislative council, the members of which are summoned by the Queen, and hold their seats for life, unless forfeited by crime. The Legislative House consists of 84 members elected by the people. In counties, a 40s. sterling freehold confers a vote, and in cities and towns the payment of a yearly rent of 10 sterling. The forms of procedure in the Provincial Parliament are identical with those of the Imperial Parliament. Bills passed by both houses of the Provincial Parliament, must receive the Queen s assent before they acquire the force of law, and this the Governor is author ized to grant in her Majesty s name, or to reserve the bills for the signification of the Queen s pleasure thereon. The gross revenue of United Canada, for 1849, was 513,431. Gross expenditure for the same year, 450,913. The entire public debt of Canada amounts to 5,208,640, of which 4,506,267 has been expended on public works. Religion, Education, &c. The prevailing religion in Eastern or Lower Canada is that of the Eomish Church. In Western or Upper Canada, the English Church predominates. In the following Table will be found a recent, and, it is believed, correct, classification and enumeration of the various religious bodies in the United provinces : i CKNSUS. 1852. Church of England Church of Rome Methodists Presbyterian^ Baptists Lutheran * 223 190 167495 .................... 207,656 201,148 45,353 12,089 er spec specifie Persons of unspecified belief. , 35,740 Immigration to Canada. The entries of emigrants from Europe become official only for 1831; since that time a regis ter of them has been carefully kept. The following are the returns for recent years. There were, in 1840 ......................................................... 21,190 1841 ......................................................... 28,937 1842 ......................................................... 41,37* 1843 ......................................................... 20,142 1814 ........................................................ 25,375 1845 ....................................................... 32376 1816 ......................................................... 32,736 1847. 1848. 1819. 1850. 1851 . 1852. 1853. ..90,150 ..27,939 "ssi-m !.88,899 ,.41,076 ..39,176 ,.36,fi99 It has been ascertained that about half of those who thus arrived in Canada, passed on to various parts of the U. States ; most if not all of that moiety having merely taken the round about way to the latter for the sake of getting a cheap pass age in overcrowded ships. Price of Land. All crown-lands, with few exceptions, are sold at 8s. currency, per acre. The price of cultivated land differs in the different districts, varying from about 1, 13s. to 10, 8s. per acre, including buildings. Smith, in his Canadian Gazetteer, an apparently meritorious work, published at Toronto, recommends that emigrants to Canada should not purchase land till they have been sufficiently long in the country to know its value, otherwise they are certain to pay at least one-third more for it than after they have been in the country for some time. No person, he adds, should purchase more land than he is able to pay for immediately, and, above all things, he should avoid purchasing land on long credits. History. Canada has its name from the Iroquois word lanata, signifying a collection of huts, and which the early European discoverers mistook for the name of the country. It is said to have been first discovered by Sebastian Cabot, in 1497 ; but the first settlement made by Europeans was in 1541, at St. Croix s harbour, by Jacques Cartier, a French navigator, who sailed up the St. Lawrence, to which he gave its present name. In 1608, a permanent settlement was made by the French upon the present site of Quebec, Canada being then called New France. From this period, till 1759, the French continued to occupy the country, though much har- rassed by various tribes of Indians, particularly the Mohawks ; but in the year just named, an English army, under General Wolfe, captured Quebec ; and by Septembers, 1760, all other places within the government of Canada were surrendered to the British, and the French power in that quarter of the world entirely annihilated. In 1774, by an Act of the British Par liament, a legislative council of 23 members was appointed to assist the Governor. Seventeen years after, Canada was divided into two separate provinces, to be called the provinces of Upper and Lower Canada ; and the first parliament of the former met at Niagara on September 17, 1792. In 1820, dis sensions, chiefly of a political and financial character, began to arise between the House of Assembly and the Executive Government in Lower Canada, which went on from year to year increasing in intensity and malignity, deepened by the national prejudices of the French and English colonists, the former considering themselves as having interests different from those of the latter, till a crisis arrived. The spirit of anarchy and discontent extended to Upper Canada, where it began to manifest itself in 1834, the causes being substantially the same with those of Lower Canada. At length matters were brought to an issue in the latter country by the arrest, in 1837, of two popular leaders, who were rescued. Warrants were issued for the arrest of others ; the peasantry in the districts of Chambly and of Grand Brule rose in arms, and were defeated by the military. Similar scenes were enacted at the same time in Upper Canada, where considerable ex asperation prevailed against the Government. The insurrec tion here, however, was also suppressed, but not before martial law had been proclaimed. The result of these proceedings was the re-uniting of the provinces, which took place in 1840, under the name of the United Provinces of Canada, and the changing their respective designations from Upper and Lower Canada, to Canada East and Canada West. The present governor 1855), is the Earl of Elgin, who was appointed in 1846. Pop. of Upper Canada in 1852, by census, 952,004; Lower Canada (1848), about 770,000. (Couchette, Lyell s Geology; Scobie s Canadian Almanac ; Smith s Gazetteer of Canada West; Parl. Papers.} CANADA CREEK, a river, U. States, New York, the largest branch of the Mohawk river, 60 m. long. It has several picturesque rapids and cascades. CANADIAN RIVER, a river, U. States, the principal affluent of the Arkansas, and formed by the union of the N. and S. Canadian Forks. The N. Canadian Fork rises in CANADIAN CHANNEL 582 CANARIES Texas. N. of Santa Fe, flows S.E., enters the Indian territory, where, in lat. 35 22 N. ; Ion. 99 37 W., it receives the S. Canadian Fork on its r. bank. It continues to flow S.E. to lat. 34 30 N. ; Ion. 97 13 W., when it bends N.E., and ultimately falls into the Arkansas, in lat. 35 27 N. ; Ion. 95 W., after a course of about 1000 m. It is navigable for about 120 m., and its waters are muddy. The S. Canadian Fork rises also in Texas. It is formed of numerous considerable streams, which, rising in sierra Obscura, unite their waters in lat. 34 55 N. ; Ion. 102 5 W.; whence the river flows N.E., and unites with the N. Fork, as already stated; whole course, to head of longest affluent, upwards of 300 in. CANADIAN, or NORTH CHANNEL, one of the two pas sages (N. and S.), into which the estuary of the St. Lawrence is divided by the Isle of Anticosti ; it is about 30 m. in breadth, and contains numerous islands on the N. or Canadian side, the principal of which are the Mingan Islands, having passages between, and places of good anchorage. CANALE, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 7 m. N.N.W. Alba. Some mineral springs are found in the neigh bourhood, which afford a neutral salt, much employed by the druggists of Piedmont. Pop. 3500. CANALS, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 36 m. S. by W. Valencia, on an elevated plain, at the confluence of the rivers Canolas and Santos. It has wide, straight streets, well-built houses, several squares, a parish church, townhouse, two schools, a prison, and cemetery. Manufactures: glass and delft, from materials found in the neighbourhood, linen fabrics, paper, and copper vessels, and ropes, bridle-reins, &c., from the fibre of the American aloe. Trade : manufactured goods, wine, oil, and corn. Pop. 2150. CANAMINA, a tn. Dahomey, about 12 m. S. Abomey. It is scattered over a great srea, and contains a house set apart by the King for the accommodation of white men. The surrounding country is level, and cultivated. Pop. 10,000. CANANDA1GUA, a vil. and lake, U. States, New York. The former is beautifully situate at the N. end of the lake, 230 m. N.N.W. New York; it is neatly built, is surrounded by a rich agricultural country, and contains a population of 2790. The LAKE is about 15 m. long, and abounds with fish ; its waters are remarkably clear, and its banks highly cultivated. CANANEA, a maritime tn. Brazil, prov. Sao-Paulo, tricts, S. by prov. Malabar, and W. by the Indian Ocean ; length, along the coast, N. to S., 180 m. ; mean breadth, 40 m. ; area, 7380 sq. m. It is divided into two districts, the one N., the other S. of lat. 13 40 N. The surface is generally rocky and uneven, the W. ghauts, or branches of them, traversing it throughout its whole extent. The soil on the high ground is red and gravelly, and near the sea sandy. The valleys are fertile, but the labour and expense of cultivating the land are great, owing to the irregularity of its surface, which renders it necessary to level the fields pre viously to ploughing them. Even after the land has been levelled and brought under cultivation, if it be neglected for a year or two, .t is broken up by numerous deep gullies, formed by the torrents which fall during the monsoon. The chief production is rice, for the cultivation of which the climate, with its heavy rains, is peculiarly favourable, and the lands along the rivers, or arms of the sea, are well adapted. The finer sort of land yields two, and sometimes three, annual crops of this grain ; the inferior, one crop of rice, and another of some coarser grain. Manure is scarce, and the incessant wet, and want of good pasture, has greatly deteriorated and stunted the breed of cattle. Cocoa-nuts, betel, and pepper are cultivated, but not extensively. The greater part of the lands are private property, and are leased by tenants who pay as rent from one-fourth to one-half of the gross produce. The proprietor seldom raises the rent, or removes the tenant. Some sugar is manufactured from the palms ; and salt is made on the coast. The chief exports are rice, betel-nut, black pepper, ginger, sandal-wood, turmeric, cocoa-nuts, oil, and raw silk ; imports, cloth, cotton, thread, blankets, tobacco, and black cattle. The chief towns are, in the N. division, Batticollah ; and in the S. division, Mangalore. Canara is inhabited by many different tribes ; the Jains are more numerous here than in any of the adjacent districts, and some of their ancient temples are still pretty entire. The interior is inhabited by Nairs, Bunts, and Soodras, who are the chief proprietors of the land ; the people on the sea-coast are principally Mahometans ; and about a sixth part of the en tire population are Brahmins. There are upwards of 50,000 R. Catholics in the province, mostly descendants of the Por tuguese, Dutch, Danish, and other colonists. This province, which had been previously ruled by Hindoos, was, in 1763, subdued by Hyder All, Rajah of Mysore. On the death of agreeably situate on an island, bay of same name; lat. 25 S.; his son, Tippoo, in 1799, it passed into the hands of the Ion. 48 5 W. It has a church, custom-house, and several British, where it has since remained in the enjoyment of boat-building yards. Its port admits small vessels, of which numbers come for the excellent rice grown in the district much of which is exported to Santos. Coffee and vanilla are uninterrupted peace. Pop., 1831, 707,571. CANARIES (ISLANDS OF), [anc. Fortunate Insults], a prov. Spain, comprising a group of seven large, and six also grown. Pop. 2000. The BAY, formerly called Tara- I smaller islands in the Atlantic, off the N.W. coast of Africa, pande, is formed between a mountainous peninsula S., and two islands N.; and mea sures about 12 m. N. to S., by 10 m. E. to W. Its entrance, about 2 m. wide, is obstructed by sandbanks, through which there is a channel for small vessels. CANANORE (CANURA), a seaport tn. Ilindoostan, prov. Malabar, presid. Mad ras, 44 m. N. W. Calicut; lat. 11 51 12" N.; Ion. 75 20 45"E. (R.) It trades with Arabia, Bengal, Sumatra, and Surat, whence it imports horses, puce goods, almonds, sugar, silk, opium, camphor, and benzoin ; and to which it exports pep per, cardamoms, sandal-wood, shark fins, and coir-cordage. It is the capital of the district of Cherical, an elevated and un even tract, extending tor about 2 m. in land from the fort. The territory is now subordinate to the British. Cananore is the chief military station of the British in Malabar. Abreast of Cananore Point, on which a fort is built, vessels anchor in 5 fathoms water. CANARA, a maritime prov. Ilindoo stan, presid. Madras, comprehending the countries of Tulava, Haiga, and some parts of Malabar and the Hindoo Kankana ; between lat. 12 between lat. 27 49 and 29 46 N. ; Ion. 13 20 and 18 13 and 15 N., and Ion. 74 and 76 E. ; bounded, N. by Beja- The large islands are Gran Canaria or Grand Canary, poor and Goa, E. by Mysore and the Balaghaut ceded die- Fuerteventura or Fuertaventura, Gomera, Lanzarote, Pahna, I i CANARIES CANDEISH Tenerife, and Hierro, or Ferro, containing, collectively, an area of 3400 sq. m. The smaller are Roque del Este, Roque del Oeste, Alegranza, Graciosa, Montanaclara, and Lobos. These islands are volcanic, and from their position from E. to W., their contiguity to each other, and proximity to the African continent, form probably a continuation of the great mountain system of N. Africa. Alegranza is the most N., Lanzarote and Roque del Este the most E., and Hierro the most S.W. of the group. All are rugged and mountainous, frequently presenting precipitous cliffs to the sea, though in other parts having fertile valleys and verdant slopes, and all of them cut up by deep ravines, though the height of the interior of the islands, and the steepness of the declivity to the coasts, prevent the formation of rivers. The principal mountains are the Peak of Tenerife, 12,182 ft. above the sea level; El Cumbre, in Gran Canaria, 5842 ft.; Handia,inFuerte- ventura, 2800 ft. ; and Montana Blanca, in Lanzarote, 2000 ft. Besides the well-known volcano of Tenerife, there are several others, one of which broke out in Lanzarote in 1824, and still continues active. The climate is hot, but generally healthy, being attempered by N. and W. breezes, and by the eleva tion of the ground. The S. and S.E. winds produce various maladies, and often bring destructive visitations of locusts. The vegetation of the Canaries is exceedingly varied, owing to their position near the tropics, and their great elevation. Near the sea, palms and other tropical plants nourish ; higher up, cereals of various kinds, the vine, &c., are cultivated; above these the laurel grows ; and higher still, pine trees, and white broom (Cytisus fragrans), occupy the still more lofty slopes. There is a great scarcity of water in some seasons of the year, from the absence of rivers, properly so called, the numerous water courses which cut up the islands in all direc tions being sometimes swelled to torrents, and at others dry. The agricultural produce of these islands, in 1842, consisted of grain, 150,000 qrs. ; wine, 50,000 pipes ; brandy, 2992 pipes; barilla, 13,500 tons ; potatoes, 500,000 barrels; besides these articles, exquisite fruits of all kinds, including oranges, lemons, dates, guavas, &c., and various vegetables, are grown ; honey, silk, cotton, archil, and cochineal are produced, and the sugar-cane flourishes wild, but is not cultivated. All kinds of domestic animals abound, though sheep and goats only are indigenous. The camel has also been introduced, but does not thrive in the climate. The canary bird is still plentiful, though differing in colour and appearance from those now bred in England. There is no scarcity of game, and these islands are happily free from ravenous beasts and noxious reptiles. The Canaries have few manufactures ; silk, cotton, linen, and woollen fabrics are woven, though not extensively; and the inhabitants make felt and straw-hats, the latter in much request amongst the English sailors. The exports are- wine, brandy, silk, barilla, cotton, honey, archil, cochineal, &c. ; and the imports hardware, glass, earthenware, oil, soap, candles, haberdashery, perfumery, and other manufac tured goods from England, France, America, and other states. The chief ports of the Canaries are Santa Cruz, in Tenerife ; Talma, in Canaria ; Lanzarote and Ortova ; but though there is a great depth of water between the islands, yet the group has no secure harbours, all being open roadsteads and unsafe, except in the fine season. Gran Canaria has safer ground for anchorage than any other, and Las Palrnas Bay, at its N. side, affords a secure position from all winds save the E., which is seldom violent. In 1842, 111 vessels, tonn. 14,103, entered these ports. The fisheries on the African coast occupy so many of the inhabitants, that it is reported Spain might, on emergency, obtain 2000 able seamen from them, without impoverishing the trade. The Canaries were first discovered by a Spanish vessel, driven thither by stress of weather, about 1330. The inhabi tants now are chiefly of European origin, though some still claim to be of the stock of the aborigines named Guanches, who, from intermarriage, have disappeared. They are in general well formed, athletic, and brave. The Guanches believed in one God, and in a future state of rewards and punishments ; embalmed their dead, and deposited them in an erect position in mountain caverns, somewhat resembling the catacombs of Egypt. Some of these mummies have been found in a state so desiccated as to weigh very few pounds. The inhabitants are now rigid R. Catholics, and generally as ignorant as bigotted. The three larger islands on the E. form one bishopric, and the four W. a second, both suffragan to the Archbishop of Seville. Pop., 1849, 257,7 19 (Madoz j Tariff, &c.) CANARY (GREAT) [Spanish, Gran Canaria}, a Spanish isl., N. Atlantic, W. coast, Africa, the second largest of the Canaries, near the centre of the group; lat. (N.W. point) 28 9 36" N. ; Ion. 15 43 12" W. It is nearly round, about 40 m. in diameter; and is an enormous volcanic mass, whose highest peak, El Cumbre, near the centre, is 6630 ft. high, and covered with snow a great part of the year. Its coasts are fringed with breakers, and unapproachable, except ing at the N.E. side, near the peninsula of Isleta, which forms the Bay of Palmas, the finest anchorage in the group. Being well-watered by numerous rivulets, it is the most fertile of all the Canaries, and exports some, wine, brandy, salt, silk, archil, and excellent cheese. The chief town is Palmas. Pop. CANASTRA, a mountain range, Brazil, prov. Minus Geraes, stretching S.E. from the S. termination of the serra Mata Gorda, which forms part of the boundary between provs. Goyaz and Minas Geraes. The Sao- Francisco, one of the largest rivers in Brazil, rises in the N. slopes of this range. CA^AVARAL-DE-ALG ONETAR, a vil. Spain, Estrema- dura, prov. of, and 23 m. N. by E. Caceres, S. slope of a continuation of the sierra de Guadalupe; possessing a church, townhall, prison, and school. Pop. 2355. (Madoz.) CANA- VERDE, a tn. Brazil, prov. Minas-Geraes, 12 m. from Tamandua, with a church ; inhabitants engaged in agricul ture and cattle-rearing. Pop. 3000. CANCALE, a tn. France, dep. Ille-et-Vilaine, 8 m. E.N.E. St. Malo, on the Bay of Cancale. It is divided into two parts Cancale, pleasantly situate on an eminence, and La Houle, a suburb close to the shore, where the fishermen reside. The former is well built, and has a pretty church. The BAY of Cancale affords good anchorage ground, in 5 to 6 fathoms water, with a mud bottom. A reef of rocks protects it on the outside. It is celebrated for its oysters, of which some hundred millions are taken annually, without producing any apparent diminution of their numbers. Most of the oysters consumed in France are obtained here, au:l many are exported. Pop. 2682. CANCAO, KANG-KAO, or HATIAN, a seaport tn. Siam, gulf of that name, at the mouth of the Cancao river ; lat. 10 15 N. ; Ion. 105 E. It was formerly a Chinese colony, and had a considerable trade, a portion of which it still retains. CANCELLARA, a tn. and com. Naples, prov. Basilicata, dist. of, and 8 m. N.E. Potenza. It is situate in a fine valley, and has an old handsome church. Pop. 3110. CANCUN, an isl., Mexican Confederation, state Yucatan, near the mouth of the Bullina. Its S. end, which forms a very narrow channel with the mainland, is in lat. 21 N. ; Ion. 86 47 W. It is a narrow strip of land, composed of sand-hills, is about 8 m. long, by broad , and has some small wells, which are used by fishermen. CANDAHAR. See KANDAHAR. CANDEISH, or KHANDEISH, an anc. prov. and British collectorate, nearly co-extensive, Hindoostan, presid. Bombay, in the Deccan, between lat. 20 and 22 N. ; Ion. 73 and 77 E. It is separated N. from Malwa by the Nerbudda ; and is bounded, E. by Gundwana and Berar, S. by Berar and Aurungabad, and W. by Goojerat ; length, E. to W., 210 m. ; average breadth, about 80 m. The country, which is nearly surrounded by mountains, and watered by the Nerbudda, the Tuptee, or Tapty, and other considerable streams, is extremely fertile ; and as its surface is studded in many places with detached hills, having rocky perpendicular sides and level summits, its military strength is naturally very great. The chief products are grain, indigo, and cotton, by which last a tenth of the whole land under cultivation was occupied, ex tending annually, on an average, the 12 years ending in 1846, to 104,549 beegas, or 53,580 ac. It is understood that the production of cotton might be greatly increased. One great obstacle to its extension is the want of good roads. Candeish is one of the original Mahratta provinces, and at one time contained a number of fortresses, strong both by nature and art Early in the 15th century, it was governed by independent sovereigns claiming descent from the Khalif Omar, and resident at Asseerghur, their capital ; but towards the close of that century it. was thoroughly subdued and annexed to the Mogul empire. CANDELA 584 CANFU Its decline may be dated from 1802, when it was ravaged by Jeswunt Rao Holcar; next year it was depopulated by famine, and afterwards more slowly, but more effectually, ruined by the rapacity of the Peshwa s servants ; as also by the predatory incursions of the Bheels, Findarries, and various insurgent bodies of Arabs, who had established themselves in the strongholds. In 1818, Candeish was ceded to the British; after which the Arabs were expelled, and the Bheels and other predatory hordes put down. Nearly a half of the villages were at this time abandoned to the tigers, with which the province swarmed ; and impenetrable jungle occupied the land once covered with luxuriant harvests. Prosperity was, however, ultimately restored to Candeish, under the effective administration of General Briggs, who, besides other remedial measures, put a price on the head of the tigers, and that soon reduced their numbers. In four years prior to the General s arrival, they had carried off 350 men, and 24,000 head of cattle. The chief towns are Boorhanpoor, Asseerghur, Hindia, Nundoorbar, and Gaulna. Pop. 480,000. CANDELA, a tn. Naples, prov. Capitanata, 12 m. S.E. Bovino. It has four churches, and an hospital. The environs produce good fruit, and wine of fair quality. Pop. 3850. CANDELARIA. 1, A rocky islet and reefs, S. Pacific, Solomon group ; lat. 6 16 S. ; Ion. 159 20 E., discovered by Montana, in 1567. 2, A bay, Central America, N.E. coast isthmus of Panama, W. Choco Bay, at the mouth of the Atrato; lat. 8 10 N. ; Ion. 77 W. CANDELARIO, a tn. Spain, Leon, prov. of, and 40 m. S. Salamanca, on a slope of the sierra de Bejar. The houses are, in general, well built, the streets steep and narrow, though well paved, the principal square is spacious, and con tains the townhouse and municipal offices ; there are, besides, two smaller squares, both mean and insignificant ; a chapel, two schools, a prison, and cemetery; and, in the most elevated part of the town, the parish church, a large and elegant Ionic structure. Manufactures : linen fabrics, paper, buttons for the army, wine, and oil ; trade : cattle and agricultural produce. Pop. 2089. CANDELEDA, a tn. Spain, Old Castile, prov. of, and 42 m. S.W. by S. Avila, at the point of junction with New Castile and Estremadura, at the foot of the sierra de Gredos. It has badly-paved streets, three squares, in the principal of which is the townhall. It likewise has a parish church, prison, hospital, two schools, a storehouse, cemetery, and an old castle of the Counts de Miranda, which has been partly demolished, and the materials used in other buildings. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in weaving, making hats, and bricks, expressing oil, and in husbandry. Pop. 4730. (Madoz.) CANDIA, an isl. See CRETE. CANDIA, a city, cap. isl. Crete or Candia, N. shore of the island, about 90 m. from its W., and about 70 m. from its E. extremity; lat. (Minaret), 35 21 N. ; Ion. 25 8 15 E. (R.) The streets are wide, regular, and clean, and orna mented with trees ; the houses, in general, well built, mostly of one story in height. It is defended by high walls of Ven tian construction, with deep ditches and outworks, all kept in good order ; and contains a number of mosques, a Greek cathedral, and several churches ; with a R. Catholic monas tery and its chapel. It is the residence of a Pasha, and of a Greek archbishop. The harbour is now so choked up with mud, that vessels drawing more than 8 ft. water cannot enter. The chief manufacture is soap, in the preparation of whic" much of the oil produced in the island is employed. There are also manufactures of silk and cotton, and several brandy distilleries. In 1846, the exports, consisting of honey, cheese, oil, silk, soap, wax, wool, fruits, &c., amounted in value to 46,261 ; and the imports of the same year amounted to 70,804. Candia was founded by the Arabs, by whom ii was called Khandali, signifying an entrenchment. Pop 12,000; of which 9,000 are Mahometans. CANDIA-oi-LoMELUNA, a tn., Sardinian States, prov Lomellina, 10 m. S.W. Mortara, near 1. bank, Sesia. Pop 1400. CANDLESBY, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 850 ac. Pop. 247 CANDOVER, three pars. Eng. Hants:!, Candmm (Ei-own), 230 ac. Pop. 313. 2, Candover (Chilton), 2190 ac. Pop. 103. 3, Candover (Preston), 3430 ac. Pop. 481. CANDY, a city, Ceylon. See KANDY. CANDYAN provinces. See KANDYAN. CANE, or KEN, a river, Hindoostan, Bundelcund, formed y two head streams, which rise on the S. limit of that terri tory ; and, flowing N., unite lat. 24 38 N., from which point t holds on its N. course, until it falls into the Jumna, lat. 25 45 N., after a course of about 100 in. It is too rocky o be rendered navigable, but contains fine fish and beautiful Peebles. CANE ISLANDS, or KALIB ROCKS, two rocky isls. Mediterranean, off N. coast Tunis, N.W. Africa; lat. 37 37 N. ; Ion. 10 30 E., 5J m. from Cape Zibib ; they are dan gerous, and have several rocks under water about them, but there is a good channel between them and the shore, having Vom 10 to 23 fathoms water. CANEA, or KHANIA [anc. Cydonia}, a seaport, and tho principal commercial tn. isl. Crete or Candia, cap. prov. of same name, N. shore of isl., E. side Gulf of Khania ; lat. (Castle), 35 28 42" N. ; Ion. 24 E. (n.) The town is urrounded by strong walls and deep ditches, but both aro neglected ; streets spacious and well paved ; houses high, and old looking. It has several mosques and Greek churches, and a Capuchin monastery. The harbour, which had become so choked up as to be nearly useless, has been recently much mproved, and now admits vessels of 300 tons. At the ex tremity of the mole by which the harbour is formed, there is a lighthouse, and opposite to it a small fort for the protection of the port. It is the principal mart for the commerce of the island, and carries on a considerable trade with France, Trieste, Venice, &c. Its chief exports are wax, soap, oil, silks, fruits, wool, and provisions, which amounted, in 1846, to 189,500; the imports for the same year being 181,950. It is the residence of the provincial governor, the seat of the provincial council, and of a Greek bishopric ; it is also the residence of several European consuls. Canea is believed to stand on the site of the ancient Cydonia, of which, how ever, no vestige now remains. The country around is remarkable for its beauty being covered with olives, corn fields, gardens, and vineyards, watered by rivulets overhung with roses and myrtles. Pop. 8000 ; of which about 5000 are Mahometans. CANEGHEM, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. W. Flan ders, 15 m. N.E. Courtray. A considerable linen manu facture, and a trade in all kinds of grain, butter, poultry, and cattle, is carried on. Pop. 2013. CANEL, a tn., W. Africa, Senegambia, kingdom Futa Toro, 1. bank, Guilulu ; lat. 15 30 N. ; Ion. 13 18 W. CANELAS, a tn. Mexican Confederation, state of, and 110 m. N.W. Durango, S.W. slope of the sierra Madre. Although the climate is delightful, the inhabitants, who are employed in the mines, are very subject to goitre. CANELLI, a tn., Sardinian States, prov. of, and 14 m. S.E. Asti, near 1. bank, Belbo. It contains two churches and a convent. Limestone quarries are worked in the neigh bourhood. Pop. 3500. CA5JETE, three tns. Spain:!, Canete-la-real, a tn. Andalusia, prov. Malaga, 18 m. N. by E. Ronda, N. side of the sierra Sabora ; with houses tolerably well built, two squares, a Doric parish church, town and courthouses, a prison, two well-attended schools, an hospital, storehouse, cemetery, and several fine fountains. Inhabitants mostly employed in agriculture, and as muleteers. Pop. 3574. 2, Canete-de-las torres, a tn. Andalusia, prov. of, and 25 m. E. Cordova ; having a church, castle, townhall, prison, and two schools. Pop. I960. 3, Canete, a walled tn. New Castile, prov. of, and 30 m. E. Cuenca; with ill-built houses, church, chapel, townhall, prison, hospital, college, school, and store house. People engaged in weaving, shoemaking, and hus bandry. Pop. 1216. (Madoz.) CANEWDON, par. Eng. Essex ; 2800 ac. Pop. 723. CAN FIELD, two pars. Eng. Essex:!, Canfield [Great], 3070 ac. Pop. 496. 2, Canfield (Little], 1510 ac. Pop. 258. CANFOO, a tn. W. Africa, Soudan, territory lloussa, r. bank of a head stream of the Yeou, 40 m. S. Kano, and 300 m. S.S.W. Kouka; lat. 11 15 N. ; Ion. 9 E. CANFORD-MAGNA, par. Eng. Dorset; 7880 ac. Pop. 968. CANFU, or CANFOO, called KANPU by the Chinese, an anc. tn. and seaport China, prov. Che-kiang, at the head of a considerable bay, 32 m. S.W. Chapoo. It was originally CANGOZIMA 585 CANOMA the port of Hangchau, and is described, in the 9th century, by two Arabian travellers, as the port of China, where all ship ping centred. It is now deserted, in consequence of the stream which runs past it having become clicked with sand. The trade which it formerly possessed is now engrossed by Canton and Chapoo. CANGOZIMA, or KANGOZIJIA, a tn. and seaport, Japan, S. extremity of the isl. of Kiusiu; lat. 31 37 N. ; Ion. 130 29 E., situate at the head of the Bay of Cangozima, which runs about 38 m. inland, with a breadth varying from 6 to 12 m. On a high rock, at the mouth of the harbour, there is a square built lighthouse. The harbour is protected by a bulwark and stone rampart, at the extremity of which is a guard-house. It is considered an important station. CANGUCU, atn. Brazil, prov. Sao-Pedro-do-Rio-Grande, 80 m. S. Pardo, on a river of same name ; with a church, and, including its district, a pop. of about 5000. CANIAPUSCAW, or KOKSOAK, a river, British America, Labrador, issuing from a lake of same name, running N. by W., and, after receiving two considerable tributaries, falling into Ungava or S. bay, Hudson s Strait, in lat. 59 N. The LAKE of same name, of very irregular shape, is about 60 m. long, with a breadth varying from 8 ni. to 35 m. Its N. end i.s in lat. 54 45 N. ; Ion. 07 W. CANICATTI, a tn. Sicily, prov. Girgenti, 15 m. S.W. Caltanicetta ; well built, and most of the inhabitants engaged in agriculture. Pop. 16,455. CANILES, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. Granada, 4 m. S. Baza. It has badly-paved streets, tolerably well-built houses, three squares, a parish church, chapel of ease, town- hall, courthouse, prison, school, and cemetery. Manufac tures : earthenware, bricks, tiles, and saltpetre, oil, and wine. Agriculture is the main employment. Pop. 3947. (Mudoz.) CANILLAS-DE-AcEiTUNo: A tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 22 m. E.N.E. Malaga, picturesquely situate on the N.E. slope of the sierra Tejeda, 1900 ft. above the valley below. It is irregularly built, and possesses a parish church, townhall, and convent. Pop. 2250. 2, Canillasde- Albaida, a small tn. contiguous to the above, having a church, two chapels, and a cemetery. Pop. 1 1 08. Several other small places in Spain have the same name. CANINDE, a river, Brazil, prov. Piauhi. It rises in the serra of Dous-Irmaos, in the S.E. of the province, about lat. 8 32 S. ; Ion. 41 33 W., flows N.W. 120 m. ; and, at Oeiras, receives the united streams of the Riachao and Itahim, on its r. bank ; 50 m. N.W. Oeiras, it unites with the Piauhi, which joins its 1. bank, from which point the joint stream flows 20 m. N.W., and falls into the Parnaiba, after a total course, direct distance, of 200 m. Its banks are generally flat, and present excellent pasture ; and near Oeiras are some iron mines. CANINO, a tn. Papal States, deleg. of, and 19 m. W.N. W. Viterbo. It has some iron-works and mineral baths ; and the beautiful palace of Lucien Bonaparte, prince of Canino. CANISBAY, par. Scot. Caithness ; 50 sq. m. Pop. 2437. CANISTER ISLANDS, three isls., Bay of Bengal, Tenasserini coast, and called, respectively, the Great, Little, and W. Canister. The first and second are about 10m. apart, and the third, 35 m. S.S.W. from Little Cannister, in lat. 12 41 15" N. ; Ion. 97 46 E. It is a high, steep, small, round island, as is also Little Canister, which is further covered with trees. Great Canister is high, irregular, and of considerable size. (Horsburgh.) CANJAYAR, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 24 m. N.W. Almeria, on the E. boundaries of the Alpujarras, between the sierras de Gador and Nevada ; with lofty houses, narrow and steep streets, and an ancient church, whose lofty tower was destroyed by an earthquake in 1804. Pop. 2200. CANN, or SHASTON-ST.-RUJIBOLD, par. Eng. Dorset ; 910 ac. Pop. 523. CANNA, an isl. Scotland, co. Inverness, one of the Hebrides, in the group forming the par. of Small Isles, 9 m. S. Skye. It is 5 m. long, by 1 m. broad, and is remarkably fertile, producing good crops of barley and potatoes. On its pasture black cattle are reared, of which a great many are annually sent to the S. markets. It has a sheltered, commo dious, and much-frequented harbour. CANNAWAY, par. Irel. Cork; 5225 ac. Pop. 1547. VOL. I. CANNE, a vil. Naples, prov. Terra di Bari, near the Ofanto, 8 m. S.W. Barletta; occupying the site of the ancient CanncE, celebrated for the famous victory gained by Hannibal over the Romans, 216 B.C. The field of battle is still dis tinguished by the name il campo di sangue, the field of blood. The ancient Cannae was destroyed the year before the battle ; but afterwards re-built, and made a bishop s see, in the early times of Christianity. It seems to have been abandoned iu the Middle Ages for the places on the sea-coast. CANNES, a seaport tn., France, dep. Var., 7 m. S.E. Grasse, on the Mediterranean ; lat. (S. tower), 43 32 45" N. ; Ion. 7 1 E. (u.) It is picturesquely situate at the bottom of a beautiful bay, on the slope of a hill projecting into the sea ; well built, has a Gothic castle and an old church. There being no proper harbour, vessels anchor in a bight opposite the quay. Perfumes are manufactured here, and oil barrels made, and some trade is done in anchovies, sardines, ine, olive oil, oranges, citrons, fruit, grain, and the other productions of the district. Napoleon landed here, March 1, 1815, on his return from Elba. Pop. 3642. CANNETELLO, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Calabria Ultra I., 8 m. N. Reggio, on the strait of Messina. It was almost destroyed by an earthquake in 1783. Chief employ ment, fishing. Pop., including two small places, Pezzo and Piale, 2230. CANNETCv 1, A tn. and com. Austrian Italy, prov. of, and 20 m. W. Mantua, 1. bank, Oglio, near its confluence with the Chiesa; a very ancient place, and the scene of several engagements in the Middle Ages. Pop. 2922.- 2, A tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Bari, 9 m. S. Bari. Almonds, anise, and cummin, are cultivated in the vicinity. Pop. 2192. CANNINGS- BISHOP S, a par. and vil. England, co. Wilts, 3 m. N.E. Devizes. The VILLAGE consists of one prin cipal street, tolerably straight, and kept in good order ; though the houses, some of brick, and others of stone, are but in-- differently built. The church, 600 years old, in the Norman Gothic style, is the only building of any interest, except a national school, founded in 1830. The inhabitants are mostly employed in agriculture. Area of par. 10,290 ac. Pop. 3843. CANNINGTON, a vil. and par. England, Somerset, 3 m. N.W. by W. Bridgewater. The VILLAGE consists of one prin cipal street, well kept ; the houses, partly of stone and partly of brick, are well built. An abundant supply of good water, from a brook which, running past the end of the village, drives two mills. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in agricul ture. The Bridgewater station of the Great Western Rail way is 4 m. from the village. Area of par. 3970 ac. Pop. 1349. CANNOCK, par. Eng. Stafford ; 11,970 ac. Pop. 285 ?. CANNOUCHEE, a river, U. States, Georgia, after a S.E. course of 140 m., falling into the great Ogeechee, of which it is the most W. and largest affluent. It is navigable 50 m. to Cedar creek. CANNSTADT, a tn. Wiirtemberg, circle, Neckar, cap. bail, of same name, in a beautiful and fertile country on the Neckar, 4 m. N.E. Stuttgart. It consists of the inner town, which has a double wall, with three gates, and of three suburbs. Its principal buildingsare the theatre, an orthopaedic institution, and a bridge over the river. It is the entrepot for the traffic on the Neckar being accessible to barges of 30 tons ; and has manufactures of woollens, cottons, tobacco, vinegar, &c., with some considerable dyeing establishments. In the vicinity are a number of mineral springs, saline and sulphureous ; with baths and pleasure grounds forming a favourite resort of the inhabitants of Stuttgart. Roman remains, consisting of vases, coins, &c., have been found in the neighbourhood. Close by are the royal seats of Bellevue and Rosenstein. Cannstadt is connected by a railway with Heilbronn and Carls- ruhe. In 1 796, a battle was fought near the town, between the archduke Charles, of Austria, and General Moreau. Pop, of tn. 4465, almost all Protestants; of bail. 23,076. CANOBBIO, a tn., Sardinian States, Piedmont, W. side Lake Maggiore, 17 m. S.W. Bellinzona. It was once for tified, and the ruins of its castle still remain. Its very hand some church was built by Bramante, and contains some good pictures and fine frescoes, chiefly by Gaudentio Ferrari. Canobbio has long been famous for its tanneries. Pop. 2000. CANOMA, a river, Brazil, prov. Para, an affluent of the Madeira, which it joins on the r. bank ; lat. 3 58 S., after a N.W. course of upwards of 200 m. direct distance ; and, pass- CANON 586 CANTERBURY ing through Lake Cauoma, about 35 in. long, by 1 2 m. broad. This lake lias two outlets, the Canoma W., and the Furo or Abacaxis N.E. CANON, two pars. Eng. Hereford : 1, (Frame), 1040 ac. Pop. 115. 2. (Pion or PI/OH}, 3730 ac. Pop. 681. CANONB1E, par. and vil. Scot. Dumfries. Pop. 3032. CANON BY-CROSS, par. Eng. Cumberland; 2400 ac. Pop. 5731. CANOSA [anc. Canusum], a tn. Naples, prov. Terra-di- Bari, 13 m. S.W. Barletta, on the site of the ancient citadel of the ancient town. It has two churches, of which the cathedral, built in the 6th century, is highly ornamented, and contains the tomb of Bohemond, prince of Antioeh. The ancient city was one of the most considerable in this part of Italy. The ruins of an amphitheatre, aqueduct, columns, and tombs, attest its grandeur and extent. It was the refuge of the wreck of the Roman army, after the battle of Cannae ; and was successively ravaged by Goths, Saracens, and Northmen. Pop. 8080. CANOUGE, a tn. India. See KANOUGE. CANOURGUE (L.\), a tn. and com. France, dep. Lozere, m. S.W. Marvejols, on the Urugue, near its confluence with the Lot ; from time immemorial the centre of the manufac ture of serges and other woollen goods, known by the name of Cadis-clc-la-Canourgue. It also produces calicoes, and has some trade in grain and cattle. Pop. 1910. CANSO CAPE, a headland, British N. America, forming the N.E. point of Nova Scotia; lat. 45 18 N. ; Ion. 61 W. CANSO (GuT OF), a strait, British N. America, dividing Cape Breton from Nova Scotia, and forming a secure and much-frequented passage from the Atlantic into the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; it is about 21m. long, and varying from 1 m. to 1 m. broad ; lat. (N. W. entrance fixed light), 45 40 N. ; Ion. 01 28 W. (R.) CANTA, a prov. Peru, bounded, N. by Caxatambo, E. by Pasco, S. by Huarochiri, and W. by Chancay, about 105 m. E. to W., by 72 m. N. to S. ; intersected by the Andes. The Carabaya, the Pasamayo, and other streams, take their rise in the province, which, although generally uneven, has some deep canals, on the sides of which, and in other small spots, potatoes, fruits, and vegetables, are raised. Cattle are numerous, and wild goats, and a peculiar species of sheep, likewise abound. Some silver mines, formerly very productive, are now filled with water. The capital town of the same name lies E. the Andes, 75 m. N.N.E. Lima. Its jurisdiction extends over 62 other towns. Pop. of prov. 12,150. CANTABRIAN MOUNTAINS, Spain, forming a W. continuation of the system of the Pyrenees, with which they are connected by the sierra d Aralar. Commencing with the sierra on the frontiers of Guipuzcoa and Navarre, they stretch W. for about 140 m., scarcely deviating from the parallel of 43 N., and terminate near the source of the Ebro, a little \V. of Reynosa ; Ion. 4 W. In their different parts they take the name of sierra de Salinas, sierra tie San Salvador, and sierra Angaiia. They are imperfectly known, but the mountains of Reynosa are rugged and precipitous, and covered with majestic forests ; and from those of Santander, snow never entirely disappears. The culminating point of the sierra d Aralar is 7032 ft. CANTAGALLO, a tn. Brazil, prov. of, and 85 m. N.E. Rio de Janeiro, in an exhausted gold district. It has a cir cular market-place, in which stands the church, between two parallel streets. The greater part of the inhabitants, how ever, live out of the town, to which they come on Sundays and feast days to assist in Divine service, and then retire. The town, likewise, has a primary school, a townhouse, with that usual appurtenance a prison. The gold being nearly wrought out in the neighbourhood, the inhabitants have turned to agriculture. The products of the district are sent on mules to the ports on the Rio Macacu, whence they are ex ported to Rio de Janeiro. Pop. of tn., 4000 ; of dist. 12,000. CANTAL, a dep. France ; bounded, N. by dep. Correze and Puy-de-D6me, E. by deps. Lozere and Haute Loire, S. by Lozere and Aveyron, W. by Lot and Correze ; between lat. 44 38 and 45 28 N. ; Ion. 2 5 and 3 20 E. Area, 2 2 15 sq. m., cap. Aurillac. This department, formerly part of Upper Auvergne, is named from its highest mountain, Mans Celtorum of the ancients. It is one of the poorest and least productive districts of France the greater part of it being occupied by mountains, attaining an elevation of 5000 and 6000 ft., and high lands, furnishing only timber, archil, and pasture. The mountains are of volcanic origin ; and the quantity of lava emitted has been so great, as apparently to have filled up many of the original valleys, and converted them into table land. It is watered by numerous rivers, the principal of which are the Dordogne, Cere, and Lot. Climate rather severe near the mountains. Agriculture, though the chief stay of the inhabitants, is in a backward state. The principal crops are rye, buckwheat, potatoes, and chestnuts the last to a large extent and some hemp and flax. Of wheat and oats, the produce is insufficient for the consumption. Cattle, sheep, horses, and mules, are reared in large numbers ; and on the refuse of the dairies, numerous pigs are fed. The horses are of good quality, and for the improvement of their breed, races have been established by the Government at Auril lac. The fat cattle from this department are much esteemed, and are sent to all parts of the country. Large quantities of cheese are made, and sold principally in the S. of France, under the name of Auvergne cheeses. Bees are numerous. There are quarries of granite, grindstones, slates, and lime stone ; but the minerals, as a whole, are unimportant. Hot mineral springs are abundant those of Chaudes-Aigues being the most frequented. The manufactures are trifling; and consist, principally, of parchment, glue, leather, coarse wool lens and linens, common lace, some hardware, paper, and glass. Large numbers of the inhabitants, apparently from want of winter employment, have, from time immemorial, emigrated annually to Spain, or to other parts of France. Aurillac is the great market for young mules, Maurs for chestnuts, and Roquebrou for fat pigs, &c. Horses, cattle, cheese, leather, honey, wax, wood, and archil, are exported, in exchange for grain, wine, oil, salt, iron, copper, cloth, &c. (, antal is divided into four arrondissements, containing 21 cantons, and 265 communes. Pop. (1846), 260,497. CANTAL1CE, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra II., 5 m. N. Citta Ducale, on a steep rock a little W. of Mount Terminello; with four churches and two convents. Pop. 2277. CANTALUPO, a tn. and com. Naples, prov. Sannio or Molise, dist. Isernia, 13m. W.S.W. Campobasso. Many of the inhabitants perished by an earthquake in 1805. It has two annual fairs, and produces a good deal of wine. The French here defeated the Neapolitans in 1 798. Pop. 2290. CANTELEU, a tn. France, dep. Seine-Inferieure, 4 m. W. Rouen, near r. bank, Seine, on a hill partly covered by the forest of Roumare, and crowned by the fine park of the old chateau of Cantcleu. Indianas and cotton yarn are made here, and there are some dye-works. Excellent cider is produced in the district. Pop. 1113. CANTERBURY, a city, co. Kent, metropolitan see of all England, and county in itself, having a separate jurisdic tion, 55 m. E. by S. London ; beautifully situated in a fertile vale, surrounded by gentle eminences, which supply numer ous streams of excellent water. The principal thoroughfare is wide, the houses well built, and the streets, in general, well paved, and lighted with gas. It extends about ^ m. E. to W., and rather more N. to S., with four suburbs at the four car dinal points. From all points Canterbury presents a pictur esque appearance, its antique features contrasiing finely with the sylvan scenery around. The most remarkable object in the city is the cathedral, one of the finest ecclesiastical struc tures in England. The original building, of which no part now remains, was of great antiquity, the distinction having been claimed for it of being the first Christian church in the kingdom. The present edifice, 514 ft. in length, E. to W., and 71 in greatest breadth, has been built in different ages (the oldest part dating 1184), and presents, in consequence, various styles of architecture, but retains, altogether, an im posing appearance ; the great tower, 235 ft. in height, being one of the most beautiful specimens of the pointed style of architecture ; one of the towers at the W. end has been re cently built of Caen stone, of which material nearly the whole of the edifice is constructed. The cathedral derives additional interest from having been the scene of the murder of the cele brated Thomas-Jt-Becket, who was slain at the foot of one of its altars, in 1171 ; and whose shrine was the object of an annual pilgrimage, celebrated by Chaucer, and admirably CANTERBURY 5*7 CANTON illustrated in modern times by Stothard. St. Augustine s mon astery, in by-gone times a rival in grandeur to the cathedral, lias been lately converted into a church missionary college. The N. gate is particularly handsome, and is a fine specimen CAXTKRDUHY CATI1F.DHAL, West Front of the decorated style of architecture. St. Margaret s church lias been lately restored in excellent taste ; and the church dedicated to St. Martin, which stands on a hill at some dis tance from the city, and is believed to be one of the oldest existing Christian churches, has also been lately restored. There are, besides, numerous chapels and places of worship for various religious sects, including a Jews synagogue. Other public buildings are the guildhall, an imposing Ionic structure, the corn-exchange, fish-market, and a theatre. In addition to the royal grammar-school, founded by Henry VIII. , there are numerous private schools, a mechanics institution, museum and library, an hospital, dispensary, and numerous other charitable institutions. Canterbury was formerly noted for its silk manufactures, now supplanted by a superior kind of damask linen, for which it has become celebrated ; its other manufactures are worsted, vellum, and parchment ; it is also famous for its brawn. There are several extensive breweries and malting establishments in the town ; and the principal articles of trade are wool, corn, and hops, in the cultivation of the last of which the greater portion of the labouring class are employed. Canterbury has returned two members to the House of Commons since the 23d of Edward I.; registered electors (1850), 1940. It is governed by a mayor, six aldermen, and 1 8 councillors. The South-eastern Railway has a station here. Lord Tenterden, the well known Chief- Justice of England, and several other distinguished individuals, were natives of Canterbury. Pop. (1841), 15,435; (1851), 18,747. (Local Correspondent.) CANTERBURY. 1, A vil. New S. Wales, co. Cumber land, 5 m. from Sydney, on Cook s River. Here is the esta blishment of the Australasian Sugar Company. Pop. 218. 2, A settlement, New Zealand, middle isl.*E. coast, Port Cooper district, Bank s Peninsula. This settlement was organized by a committee of Episcopalians, and is calculated to comprise an area of 2,400,000 ac., of which 635,000 acres are woodland, hill, and mountain, the remainder being fertile level ground, yielding abundant crops of grain, potatoes, fruits, and vege tables. CANTIANO, a tn. Papal States, 19 m. S. Urbino, on a small stream of its own name. It is fortified and defended by a castle, and is said to be built on the ruins of an episcopal city called Luccolo. Pop. 2500. CANTILLANA, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 17 m. N.E. by N. Seville, r. bank, Guadalquiver, on an emi nence commanding the surrounding plain. It has tolerably well-made streets, a large square, parish church, chapel of case, townhouse, small prison, seven schools, an hospital, and cemetery. Earthenware, soap, brandy, oil, and wine, are made, and some trade done in fruit, grain, cattle, &c. P. 4385. CANTLEY, two pars. Ens?. : 1, Norfolk; 2970 ac. Pop. 210. 2, W. Riding, York ; 51GO ac. Pop. G51. CANTON [Chinese, Kwanychaufou broad city], a large city, China, the fourth as regards population in the empire, and the second, probably, as regards wealth, prov. Quangtong, of which Canton is a corruption, 1. bank, Chou-Kiang, or Pearl River; lat. 23 7 N. ; Ion. 113 14 30" E. ; about 45 m. above the mouth of the Bocca Tigris or the Bogue. It stretches, for about 4 m., along the low banks of the Chou- Kiang, which is here about the breadth of the Thames at London Bridge, at the foot of, and partly ascending, a range of hills, called the White Cloud Hills, from which its general appearance is by no means inviting, presenting merely an ex panse of reddish roofs, relieved only by a few large trees, some high red poles used as flag-staffs, and two or three pa godas. The approach to it, however, by the river, is striking and impressive. From Whampoa to Canton the banks are enlivened by villages and pagodas, the stream becomes more and more crowded with boats and vessels, and the noise and bustle attendant upon an intricate navigation gradually in creases, until the visitor finds himself in the midst of innum erable war-junks and merchant proas, with thousands of fan cifully painted and gay streamers floating in the breeze. Everything, in short, indicates an approach to a great trading city, and produces a degree of excitement and interest, from its novelty, of which few other scenes are capable. The city proper, or that part of Canton which is surrounded by a wall, is built nearly in the form of a square, and is divided by a wall, running from E. to W., into two unequal parts. The northern part, which is much the larger, is called the Old City, the southern is called the New. The portion of Canton enclosed by walls is about 6 m. in circumference ; the entire city, including the suburbs, or that part of it without the walls, is about 10 m. The walls themselves are composed partly of stone, and partly of bricks ; the former is chiefly coarse sandstone, and forms the foundation, and the lower part of the walls, and the arches of the gates ; the latter are small and of a soft texture. The walls are from 25 to 40 ft. high, and from 20 to 25 ft. thick, having an esplanade on the inside, and a line of battlements, with embrasures, at intervals of a few feet, on the top, all around the city. The gates are 16 in number, 12 outer and 4 inner ; one of the former is 12 ft. high and 15 wide. They are all shut at night, and strictly guarded both night and day. The streets of Canton are very numer ous, being estimated at upwards of 600, although many of them are mere alleys or lanes. Some of the principal have such names as Golden Street, Golden Flower Street, Dragon Street, Martial Dragon Street, New Green Pea Street, &c. They are generally short, slightly curved, and varying in width from 6 to 16 ft., the average breadth, however, not ex ceeding 8 ft. Some, again, are so narrow, that a man may stand, and with his arms extended, touch the houses on either side, while elbows and angles of almost every name, formed by the blind corners of buildings, oppose the progress of the wanderer, and perplex him with their multiplicity. Nor are there any public squares or open areas containing fountains and shrubbery as in Europe, to compensate the oppressive density and straitness which everywhere prevails. The streets, however, are, upon the whole, very well kept, and are tolerably clean. The houses are generally small and low, sel dom exceeding one story in height. The dwellings of the poorest class, who live in the extreme parts of the suburbs, along the banks of the river and its creeks, are mere mud hovels, having but one single apartment, low, dark, and dirty ; those along the water are all built upon piles driven into the ground. The houses of the better classes are rather more spacious, and more cleanly, and are built of brick ; they stand close upon the street, and have usually but a single en trance, which is closed by a bamboo screen suspended from the top of the opening ; the windows are small, and rarely supplied with glass, in the place of which, paper, mica, and the interior laminae of oyster-shells are used. In this de scription of dwellings there are generally three apartments, one of which is used as a common eating-room. The houses of persons of wealth and consequence, again, are large ami CANTON 583 CANTON commodious, and are surrounded by a wall 12 or 14 ft. high, which fronts the street, and completely screens the buildings within. The interior is decorated with carved work, varnished and gilded, and hung with scrolls covered with writing, or representations of landscapes, flowers, birds, &c. In the densest parts of the city, the roofs of the houses are covered with a loose frame work, on which fire-wood is piled, clothes washed and dried, and meals cooked ; it also affords a loung ing and sleeping place in summer, but in case of fire, which is of frequent occurrence, these lumbered roofs tend to increase the calamity. Chinese wood and mason work is showy and unsubstantial, requiring constant repairs, and, therefore, both gardens and houses, when neglected, soon fall into a ruinous condition ; but when new, they present a pretty appearance. A house of six apartments, and capable of accommodating 1 or 12 persons, rents about 20 per annum. Houses are let on short leases, and the rent collected quarterly in advance. The shops in Canton are, in many instances, equal to those in some European cities, considering the difference of climate. They are commodious, well stocked with goods, and are asso ciated together very much according to their respective trades. Neat and gaudily painted signs and names give a gay appear ance to the narrow streets ; in most cases there are no windows in front, but the whole is thrown open by day and closed at night. At the end of the counter, which is of granite, there is a niche, containing a tablet inscribed to Plutns or Mammon, where incense is burned every day, to invoke a profitable busi ness. In the busy parts of Canton, every house is a shop ; but theri are two streets, China Street, and New China N T RW CHINA STREET, CANTON. Street, which are especially the resort of foreigners, and where the productions of almost every part of the globe are to be found. This part of the city being much frequented by seamen, every artifice is used by the Chinese retailers to attract their attention ; each .of them having an English name for himself printed on the outside of his shop, besides a num ber of advertisements composed for them by the sailors in their own peculiar idiom. Amongst numerous attractive announcements of this kind, the following occurs in China Street. It is written in letters of gold on a lacquered board, which hangs in front of the shop The Sailor s Coffee Shop, Chan Lung, No. 10, New China Street, where all kinds of silks and teas are sold, and goods of every description for sea men. Sailors ! you are invited to try this shop, where you will find honest dealing, and where you can have ready-made coffee and tea, but no sanshoo. * Eating shops are very * Literally, thrire fired ; a coarse spirit made from rice. Common liquor is once distilled, but wlicn wanted for foreign vi-itors, who like it fiery, it is thrice distilled, and tobacco, oil, cubebs, ainsecd, and other itinmlnnts arc added. numerous in the suburbs ; they contain an immense number of made dishes, and are decorated with enormous fat pigs, varnished over, and pendent from different parts of the shop, together with varnished ducks and geese. The yearly rent of the best shops is from 30 to 40. Public buildings, consisting of pavilions, halls, and re ligious edifices, are numerous, but, as specimens of archi tecture, unworthy of special notice, although some of them are not altogether destitute of elegance. There are, also, a vast number of temples dens of infamy and vice, in which the priests and nuns are said to amount to 3000. The pago das elsewhere alluded to, and of which there are but two, are conspicuous objects ; one, called the Kwang tali, or Plain Pa goda, is about 10 centuries old ; it shoots up in an angular taper ing tower, to the height of 160 ft. ; the other is an octagonal pagoda of nine stories, 170 ft. high, and 13 centuries old. There are several prisons in the city, one of which is capable of holding 1000 prisoners. There is also a foundling hospital, the children in which, when grown up, are sold, and not un- frequently for the worst conceivable purposes ; but the charit able institutions are few in number, and miserably kept. The foreign factories, or hongs, as they are called by the Chinese, in the \V. suburbs, are the most showy in point of architectural display of any buildings in Canton. Their river frontage is between 700 and 800 ft. in length. They are built of brick stuccoed, with granite foundations ; some of them are three stories high, but most of them only two. The rents paid for these factories vary from 240 to 600 per annum for each establishment. The space occupied by tho factories is crossed by a narrow alley, called Hog Lane, unmatched in Europe for filth and the depravity of its inhabit ants, who decoy sailors, drug them, and then rob and ill-use them. The atrocities of this pandemonium have been a cause of disagreement between the British and Chinese governments. The trades and manufactures at Canton are all, more or less, connected with the foreign commerce. Many of the silk t abrics exported are woven at Fuhshan or Fatshan, a large town about 10 m. W. from the city ; fire-crackers, paper, mat- eails, cotton cloth, and other articles, are also made there for exportation. The number of persons engaged in weaving cloth in Canton is about 50,000, including the embroiderers ; about 7000 barbers, and 4200 shoemakers. The barbers are a favoured class, there being strict regu lations for their protection. Those who work in stone, brass, and iron, are numer ous, and each trade or calling is united into guilds for mutual protection and sup port. The printing and book trade, also, is very considerable. Canton is one of the five ports of China, Mom! e fit which, according to the treaty with the Chinese, of August 29, 1842, British sub jects are permitted to trade. By far the largest article of export is tea. The other chief exports consist of silver, silks, and chinaware. The imports consist of woollen goods, cotton, cotton yarn, long cloths, and various other articles of British manufacture. A contraband trade in opium is still, it is be lieved, carried on in the Canton river. TOTAL NUMBER O/VESSKI.S, with tlieir TONNAGE, ENTERED and CLEARED at CANTON, in 1840, 1847, and 1848. Entered. Cleared. Vessels. Tonnajte. Vessels. Tonnage. 184(5 304 130,170 5:97 126,755 1847 . . . 812 125,926 310 122,975 1848 261 110,242 257 108,401 BRITISH VESSELS ENTERED and CLEARED, in 184? and 1818. Entered. Cleared. Imports. Kxports. Vessds. Tonn. Vessels. Tonn. Value. Value. 184? 2->l 88,876 218 8l,?f>7 2,OH5,5bl 3,.|0(;.420 1848 171 72,345 176 73,975 1,334,147 1.76C.CGI QUANTITY of TEA EXPORTED in 1847 and 1848. tta. 1847 72,932,531 1848 36.209,30i) CANTON 589 CANTON Canton has, besides, a flourishing marine trade to Teentsin and Shanghae. All its manufactures, its abundance of sugar, its accumulated stores of cotton, indigo, cassia, aniseed, and a variety of smaller articles, fill hundreds of junks bound for the N. ; and its annual exports are not below 8,000,000 dollars (1,716,666). In return for these articles, the junks bring back considerable sums of bullion, drugs from Shantung and Leoutung ; felt, fruits, such as dates, pears, and grapes ; and mutton. This is one of the most profitable branches of commerce which the city possesses. The anchorage ground for foreign shipping is at Whampoa, about 10 in. below the city, beyond which no large vessel can proceed : it is in lat. 23 6 30" N., and is formed on the S. side by two high islands, called by Europeans, Danes and French Islands. The harbour is safe, with a moderate tide, and from 5 to 6 fathoms water, with soft mud bottom ; but there is scarcely room for two large ships to moor abreast, whicli occasions the lower part of the shipping to be moored opposite the entrance of Junk Kiver, when there are many arrivals. Canton has also an extensive inland trade. It obtains from the province of which it is the capital, Quangtong, silks, rice, fish, salt, fruits, vegetables, and various kinds of fancy wood, silver, iron, pearls, cassia, and betel-nut. From Fookein, black teas, camphor, sugar, indigo, tobacco, paper, lacquered ware, grass cloth, min erals, woollen and cotton cloths of various kinds. From Chekeang, silks, paper, fans, wines, dates, golden-flowered hams, and a most expensive tea, called Iwng-tsing-cha. From Ganhwuy and Kang- soo, green teas, and silks, whicli obtain excellent prices. From Chihle, dates, ginseng, raisins, skins, wines, venison, drugs and tobacco ; re turned in cloths, clocks, watches, and other arti cles of foreign import. From Shanse, skins, wines, ardent spirits, and musk. From Shense, brass, iron, precious stones, and drugs; returning cotton and woollen cloths, books, and wines; the trade with this province is very extensive. From Kansuh, gold, quicksilver, musk, and tobacco. From Szechuen, gold, iron, tin, musk, and a great quantity of drugs. Yunnan supplies the shops of Canton with iron, brass, peacock s feathers, and receives cotton and woollen cloths, books, and tobacco. Similar commodities to those above enumerated, are sent from various other provinces in great quantities, and similar returns to those named made from Canton. A considerable por tion of this merchandise, as well as visitors, are conveyed into the city by canals, of which there are several. The scenes which the streets of Canton present, are to a stranger exceedingly amusing and inter esting. There are no wheel-carriages in use ; but their absence is amply compensated by the nimble sedan-bearers, one class of which are called by the Chinese, horses without tails. These are the bearers of men of wealth, who generally appear abroad in sedan-chairs, taking up nearly the whole breadth of the narrow street, to the great annoyance of the foot-passengers, whom they constantly jostle. Recovered from such a shock, a coolee or porter, bearing a burden, knocks him against the wall, with a sort of grunt, while he is shuffled in an opposite direction by a second. Peculiarly curious to English eyes are the number and variety of live stock which are exposed for sale in these narrow streets puppy dogs, yelping in bam boo cages, kittens mewing, rats squeaking, fowls chucking, ducks quacking, geese cackling, and pigs grunting. Fish swimming, and earth-worms, slugs, &c., variously disposed, are exhibited in tubs and earthen pans. A barber close by twangs his iron tweezers to call his customers near him ; another operates upon a patient customer, seated on a tripod stand plaiting his tail, cleaning his ears, shaving his head and face, extracting all long and superfluous hair from his eyelashes, eyebrows, and nose, and finishing off by a good thumping of his back, and cracking his joints. Hard by is an itinerant vender of cooked food, with an enormous reed umbrella, dispensing rice, fat pork, and stews, swimming in oil and soy, which he serves out in small bowls and basins to his hungry customers, who devour the mess with an epicure s gout. Beside this merchant is seated a brother itinerant, tha vender of sweatmeats. A little further on stands a bookseller, exposing his library, the contents of two boxes, which he hawks about. In his vicinity is a fortune-teller, in the act of unfolding the future to an anxious dupe ; and a doctor, decor ated with a string of human teeth around his neck, extending below his waist, while his box of drugs hangs before him. Then an aged woman may be seen, with feet three inches long, seated under an umbrella, mending old clothes, while a passer-by wanting a button sewed on, repairs to her, and re munerates her with a cash. Not far distant a leprous beggar exhibits his disgusting sores, and rattles two pieces of bamboo to attract attention. Suppose the air filled with the noises, cries, and vociferations of these various venders, and of the constantly-changing throng of human beings, and some slight conception may be formed of Canton on approaching to Hog Lane. But the river presents scenes perhaps still more curious and interesting to the stranger than the streets. The pro digious number of boats, amounting at one time to 84,000, with which the surface is crowded, is the first thing that. strikes the eye. A large number of these as many, it ia said, as 40,000, containing a population of 200,000 are fixed residences, and most of them moored stem and stern in rows. FAMILY-BOAT. From a Drawing by Dr. Bland, B.N. The inhabitants are called tmlia or boat people, and form a class in some respects beneath the other portions of the com munity, and have many customs peculiar to themselves. CANTON 590 CANTON Millions are born, and live and die in these floating: dwellings, without ever hav ng put foot on dry land ; while their ances tors before them, for many generations, were all amphibious like themselves. The dwelling or family-boats are of various sizes, the better sort being from 60 to 80 ft. long, and about 15 ft. wide. A superstructure of considerable height, and covered with an arched roof, occupies nearly the whole of the interior of the boat. This structure is divided within into several apartments, appropriated to different domestic pur poses, all of which are kept much more clean than those in the houses of corresponding classes on shore. This kind of boat is furnished with stern-sculls, that move upon a pivot, and easily propel the boat among a crowd. The smaller boats of this description are not above 25 ft. long, and contain only one room, covered with movable mats. But by far the handsomest of the boats on the Canton river are the hwa tine/ or flower-boats. The form of these is very graceful, and their FLOWER BOJ i Drawing \,y Dr. Bland, R.N raised cabins and awnings fancifully carved and painted. As they are let to parties of pleasure for excursions on the river, considerable expense is bestowed upon beautifying and fur nishing them. The people of Canton have some personal peculiarities; amongst the most striking of which is a great variety of com plexion, the general flatness of face, and uniformity of features, and especially the strange formation of the eye, with the lid in many cases so small as to appear unadapted to its natural functions. With exception of the occiput, the heads of the men are shaved ; while in that region, if its luxuriance will admit, it is permitted to grow until it reaches the heels. The girls wear the long plait, according to the fashion of the men, but do not shave the other parts of the head. After marriage, the hair is braided and decked with a profusion of flowers and jewels, answering to the rank or means of the possessor. The ordinary style of dress differs but little in both sexes. It consists of loose pantaloons, and an over garment or robe, with long dangling sleeves, and which varies in length from the knee to the ground. Their girdles fre quently answer the purpose of purses. The stocking has no reference to the shape or size of the limb, and the shoe has a thick clumsy sole turning up in front, and destitute of elasticity to aid the step. Beggars, most of whom in Canton are blind, are a numerous and privileged class, and a source of great annoyance to passengers. The people of Canton have ac quired an infamous celebrity for profligacy and corruption, and are usually considered about the worst specimen of the nation that can be presented ; and this the more intelligent amongst themselves readily allow, although claiming at the same time for the higher classes more enterprise, more en larged views, and more general information, than is to be found amongst similar classes in most of the other large cities of China. A retiring Viceroy thus wound up a detail of his experiences in the government of Canton : Deceit and false hood prevail everywhere in this city in all ranks, and in all places. There is no truth in man, nor honesty in woman ! I have endeavoured in vain to correct these evils it has been labour lost. I am sick at heart, and wish to depart from such scenes of vice and habitual falsehood. A chief criminal judge of the city corroborates the testimony of the Viceroy. In an official proclamation by him, prohibiting the putting away of wives for slight causes, he says, For vile practices of this, and every kind, there is no place so bad as Canton. Canton has long been the favourite retreat of all the most turbulent and worst portion of the Chinese; and it is said that there is an organized band of 20,000 robbers in and around the city. The polico of Canton is well regulated, but is rendered worse than inefficient by the national failing the venality and rapacity of its officers, who share with the thieves in the proceeds of their robberies, and liberate offend ers whom they have seized, for a bribe. They are said, also, to be in the habit of arresting rich individuals under false accusations, and confining them in private houses, where they subject them to every kind of ill-treatment, to induce them to pay for their liberation. Gambling is one of the prevailing vices, and its consequence an extraordinary amount of suicide, a large portion of which is perpetrated by women. Education is in so low a state, that it is believed that not more than one-half of the male adult population of Canton can read. The education of girls is wholly and systematically neglected, there being scarcely a school for females in the city, public opinion and immemorial usage being against the educating of girls. The prices of the principal kinds of provisions in Canton depend very much on the seasons, but nearly as much on the amount of the extortions of the local officers ; they are, how ever, in general high. As an article of food, puppies and kittens are highly esteemed ; those intended for the table being fed on rice. Kats, mice, and snails are also among the delicacies, but are scarce in the market. As the articles exposed for sale in the streets are chiefly adapted to the necessities of the day, the extremes to which the principle of accommodation is carried are remarkable. Poultry and fish are dissected into very minute portions. A quarter of a fowl, the head and neck, and frequently the entrails alone, are all to which the means of the buyer extend. Vegetables are ex posed to sale in the streets in the greatest profusion. The coins in common use are taels, mace, candareens, and cash, equivalent in English money, respectively, to five shillings, sixpence, one penny, and the seventh of a farthing. The weights or measures are peculs and catties ; the pecul is equal to 133 Ibs., and 1 Ib. avoirdupois is equal to three- fourths of a catty. The climate of Canton is, upon the whole, salubrious. Foreigners residing there generally enjoy good health, if they ab -stain from ardent spirits, and avoid exposure to the sun. The heat, however, in summer is sometimes very great, the thermometer occasionally reaching from 90 to 100 Fall, in the shade ; but the average of the whole year is 72. In July and August the average is from 80 to 88, and in January and February from 50 to 60. A fall of snow occurred in Canton in February 1835, to the astonishment and no small alarm of the inhabitants, who hardly knew what name to give it. Ice, however, sometimes forms in shallow vessels, a line or two in thickness. Woollen clothes are worn, and fires aro comfortable, during January and February, but the Chinese do not warm their houses. Canton is the oldest city in the S. of China, and since tha foundation has undergone many changes. The Chinese his torians say they are able to trace their city for 2000 years, when it was called Nan-Wooching the martial city of the South, and was surrounded by a stockade made of bamboo and mud. One of its earliest names, and which is still used in its books, was Yang-Chiug, the city of rams. In May 1840, Canton was taken by the British, and ransomed by the Chinese for $6,000,000. It has been frequently devastated by fires, there being no other city where conflagrations have been more extensive, more destructive, and more frequent than in Canton, and it is said that they have not always been accidental. Amongst the latest of these disastrous fires was one which occurred in October 1843, when 1000 Chinese buildings, and several foreign hongs or factories, were de.s- troyed ; and another in December 1844, when a large theatre was consumed, and 2300 persons, men, women, and children, perished. But the most destructive fire of recent times in Canton, occurred in 1822, when between 13,000 and 14,000 houses, with nearly all the European factories, were destroyed, and many lives lost. Another alarming conflagration took place in November 1835, which threatened the destruction of the entire city, but was fortunately arrested by the walls, but not before an enormous loss of property had been sus tained ; the fire on this occasion appeared to be about 1 m. in breadth, and was in the most populous part of the city. Pop. supposed to be considerably above 1,000,000. (Middle CANTORIA 591 CAPE HAYTIEN Kingdom; Jour. Roy. Geog. Soc. ; Martin s China; Parl. Papers, &c.) CANTORIA, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 36 m. N. by E. Almeria, 1. bank, Almanzora. In general it is well built ; the streets clean, wide, and level, but unpaved ; its two squares are spacious, and adorned with handsome houses and public buildings ; a chapel, which supplies the place of a parish church, occupying the N. angle of the smaller square. The town has, besides, a townhall, prison, cemetery, and three primary schools. Manufactures : linen and wool len fabrics, saltpetre, oil, and wine. Trade in poultry, cattle, barilla, and manufactured goods. Pop. 4500. CANTREFF, par. Wales, Brecon ; 1867 ac. Pop. 223. CANTU, or CANTURIO, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 5 m. S.E. Como. It is well built, surrounded by walls, entered by six gates, and possesses a parish church, with a remarkably fine tower, formerly used as a beacon, a townhall, school, hospital, theatre, &c. In the vicinity are some iron works, which have existed since the 10th century. P. 5518. CANTYRE, CANTIRE. See KINTYRE. CANUMA, a lake, Brazil, prov. Para, 1. bank. Amazon; lat. (N. end), 2 30 S. ; Ion. 58 45 W. ; about 30 m. long by 10 m. broad. It pours its waters into the Urubu or Barururu an affluent of the Amazon ; its banks are inhabited by a few Indians ; and at its N. end is the village of Conceicao. CANWICK, par. Eng. Lincoln; 17,560 ac. Pop. 13,896. CANY, a tn. France, dep. Seine-Inferieure, 21 m. W.S. W. Dieppe, in a green and wooded valley, 1. bank, Durdent, 5 m. from its mouth. This thriving little town has several cotton and oil mills, driven by water; and a considerable trade in linen, oil seeds, oil, flax, yarn, and cattle. Pop. 1261. CANZO, a vil. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, deleg. of, and 10 m. N.E. Como, on the side of a steep and bare hill, called, from its shape, the Horns of Canzo. It contains a parish church ; and boasts of having given birth to two saints of the Roman calendar. Most of the inhabitants are employed in re aring silkworms and spinning silk. Pop. 1630. CAORiSO, a vil. and com. N. Italy, duchy Parma, 10 m. E. Piacenza, on the highroad at the confluence of the Chia- venna and Zeno affluents of the Po. It is well built, and has a church, surgical and elementary schools ; and an annual cattle fair, and one for grain and general merchandize. The inhabitants are engaged in raising grain, fruits, wine, and oil; and in rearing cattle, sheep, pigs, and poultry. Pop. 3078. CAP AND BUTTON ISLES, two small isls. Indian Archi pelago, strait of Sunda ; the one in lat. 5 58 S. ; Ion. 105 48 E. ; the other in lat. 5 49 S. ; Ion. 105 48 E. They appear to be of volcanic formation, and one of them contains two caverns, in which are found edible birds nests. CAPACCIO, or CAPACCIO-NUOVO [anc. Caput Aqueum], a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Citra, 15 m. S. Campagna, 4 m. from the sea; the seat of a bishop, and having two handsome parish churches and a convent. The cathedral is 2 m. distant, at Capaccio Vecchio, formerly an episcopal town, but destroyed in the 13th century, by the Emperor Frederick II. The in habitants then removed to San Pietro, and named it Capaccio- Nuovo. Pop. 2000. CAPANNOLI, a vil. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 16m. S.E. Pisa, 6 m. S. Pontedera, on a hill near the Era. It is tolerably well built, has a parish church and a castle, and manufactures of oil, wine, and silk. Pop. 1177. CAPANNORI, a tn. and com. Italy, duchy of, and 5 m. E. Lucca, 5 m. W.S.W. Pescia, in a fertile plain. It has a parish church, and some oil and wine presses. Pop. 2100. CAPE BRETON, a large island, British N. America, between lat. 45 30 and 47 2 N., and Ion. 59 47 and 61 35 W. ; extreme length, N. to S., 100 m. ; extreme breadth, 85 m.; area, exclusive of the great inland gulfs, about 3100 sq. m. It is separated on the S. from Nova Scotia by the Gut of Canso, and, along with Newfoundland, from which it is about 60 ni. distant, forms the E. entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It is of an irregular triangular shape, and, along the W. coast, is of dangerous access, pos sessing no harbour but that of Port Hood, near the Gut of Canso, and being lined throughout with precipitous iron-faced cliffs. Its other shores, though rugged, are indented with numerous harbours and bays. An inlet, called Bras d Or, which is entered by two narrow passages, spreads into nu merous bays and arms, and, almost intersecting the island from N.E. to S.W., forms two great natural divisions ; both rugged, but not properly mountainous, the highest point in the former not exceeding 1800 ft., and that of the latter scarcely reaching 700 ft. The geology of the island is imperfectly known. Its short distance from Nova Scotia has led some to imagine that it was at one time united to the continent, and has been dis severed by some violent convulsion ; but this conjecture is not supported by any striking resemblance in the structure of the opposite coasts. Primitive rocks, particularly granite, prevail to the S.E. of Bras d Or, and are also supposed to form the nucleus of the highlands towards the N. W. ; but through out the whole island the carboniferous formation appears, and contains extensive fields of excellent coal. Iron-ore, also, abounls; and specimens have been obtained indicating the existence of copper, lead, and other valuable minerals. Higher in the series vast beds of gypsum are found. Salt springs exist on the coast. There is no navigable river, but the fresh water lakes are both numerous and of considerable extent. The largest, Lake Marguerite, in the N., is about 40 m. in circuit. The climate is changeable, but not so rigorous as on the continent. Originally, the whole island was one great forest, but considerable tracts have been cleared. About 90,000 ac. are under culture, and produce the ordinary cereals, and pulse, maize, potatoes, and turnips. The quantity of corn raised is not equal to the home consumption. Cape Breton derives its chief importance from the working of its . coal mines, and the fisheries carried on in the adjoining seas. Its exports, consisting principally of timber, fish, and coal, amounted in value, in 1844, to 70,872 ; imports, 24,323. The ships in the same year were entered, 535 (37,574 tons) ; and cleared, 631 (40,263 tons). The shipping belonging to the island was 19,662 tons. Cape Breton, which is adminis tratively attached to the province of Nova Scotia, is divided into three counties, and sends two members to the House of Assembly. It is visited by the packets from England ; and its internal communications have recently been improved by the establishment of a steamer, which plies regularly on the Bras d Or. The island was first colonized by the French in 1712, and taken by the British in 1758. Pop. about 35,000. CAPE CLEAR, a high promontory, S. extremity of Clear Island, and forming the most S. point of Ireland, about 7 m. S.E. Baltimore, co. Cork. Its great height, 400 ft. above the sea, and prominent position, have rendered it a familiar landmark to mariners. Adjoining the (Jape is a lighthouse, which exhibits a bright revolving light, of 21 lamps, seven becoming visible every two minutes. The lantern is elevated 455 ft. above the sea, and may be seen, in clear weather, from a distance of upwards of 30 m. It is situated in lat. 51 26 N.; Ion. 9 29 W. (R.) The ISLAND of Clear is about 3J m. long, by about 1 m. broad. It is wild and romantic, steep and inaccessible cliffs rising up in all directions from the sea, while the greater part of the sur face is merely rough, rocky pasture. The inhabitants are in a primitive state. The women manufacture a coarse kind of frieze, for clothing ; the men, who have the reputation of being expert and resolute seamen, are wholly employed in fishing. Pop. ofisl. (1841), 1052. CAPE COAST CASTLE, a tn. and fort, Gold Coast, Africa, Gulf of Guinea, cap. of the British possessions on the Gold Coast; lat. (light on fort) 5 5 24" N.; Ion. 1 13 38" W. (R.) The fortress, which is large, and well built, stands on a rock close to the sea, and projects, in bold relief, from the surrounding dark, green forests. With exception of a few houses for Europeans, the town consists of straggling lines of mud huts, with clusters of palm-trees, and an occa sional tamarind attached. It is a principal mart for native barter ; and some individuals who have been educated at the Government school in the fort, now import, on their own credit, goods to the amount of 20,000 and 30,000 annually. A judicial assessor, appointed by Her Majesty, holds open court in the town three days a week, for native cases. Great good has resulted from the establishment of this court by in spiring confidence in British protection, and the fear of justice. Climate unhealthy; mean temperature 78. The principal exports are gold-dust, ivory, and palm-oil. Pop. estimated at 10,000. See GOLD COAST. CAPE HAYTIEN, a seaport tn. N. side isl. Hayti, called by the Spaniards Guarico, and afterwards by the French Cape Frangois, named also Cape Henri/, and Port CAPE HORN CAPE OF GOOD HOPE flealet, nearly 90 m. N. Port-au-Prince or Port Rcpublicain; Lit. 19 46 42" N. ; Ion. 72 11 45" W. (R.) It stands on the N. side of a bay half encircled by lofty hills, and, under French dominion, was considered one of the handsomest and most flourishing cities in the W. Indies. Half of it is in ruins, the effect of the Revolutionary wars. This gives it a melancholy aspect, but it still may be described as a handsome town, regularly built. The streets are wide and well paved, and the houses principally of stone; several of the squares and markets are spacious and handsome, and adorned with fountains yielding an abundant supply of good water. The cathedral, which has been rebuilt by public subscription, is an elegant structure ; the military hospital, a noble edifice, with large well-ventilated apartments, has also been restored, and other improvements have been made. The under part of many of the houses is occupied as stores, warehouses, and stables, the upper part only being used for residence. The entrance to the harbour is difficult, but the anchorage is safe. Cape Haytien, as well as Port-au-Prince, was occasionally the seat of government, and it continued so under Christophe and Toussaint. The trade, chiefly carried on with the U. States, is still very considerable. Pop., in 1789, 18,500; does not now exceed 9000. CAPE HORN, or HOORN, usually considered the S. ex tremity of S. America, does not really belong to that conti nent, but is the most S. point of Hermit s Island, one of the Tierra del Fuego group ; lat. 55 59 S. ; Ion. 67 16 W. (R.) This promontory is a lofty, dark, precipitous headland, from 500 to 600 ft. high, running far into the sea. When Sir J. C. Ross passed it, in September 1842, there was some snow on its summit, and its sides were clothed with a brownish coloured vegetation. The strong gales from the W. render the doubling of the Cape from the E. a matter of some danger and difficulty. But the improvements in modern navigation have greatly diminished both. Gales from the W. blow dur ing the summer nearly without interruption, but only near the Cape ; a few degrees farther S. they are more variable. During the winter E. winds are more frequent, but the navi gation is then rendered dangerous by the icebergs which ap proach the Cape, and are found even farther N. The Cape was first doubled in 1616, by the navigator Schouten, a native of Hoorn, in Holland, who named it after the town in which he was born, the word having been since altered to Horn. CAPE MOUNT, W. Africa. See MOI*T (CAPE). CAPE OF GOOD HOPE [Portuguese, C,ibo de Boa Es- peran$a; Dutch, Kaap de Gocde Hoop], or CAPE PEAK, a celebrated promontory, S. Africa, at the S. extremity of the Table Mountain, having Table Bay on the E., and the Atlantic on the W., 31 m. S. Cape Town; lat. 34 2 S.; Ion. 18 29 E. (R.), and forming a bold promontory, rising nearly 1000 ft. above the sea. This cape, celebrated in the annals of navi gation, was discovered, in the year 1486, by the Portuguese navigator Bartholomew Diaz, who, not being able to double it, and having encountered much bad weather in its neigh bourhood, gave it the name of Cabo dos Tormentos or Cape of Tempests. John II., King of Portugal, considering this point as the goal of that gradual circumnavigation of the African continent, which had long engaged the attention of the Portuguese, gave it, instead, the title of Cabo de Boa Esperanto.. Shortly after, Nov. 20, 1497, Vasco de Gama succeeded in doubling the Cape, and was the first European who by this route reached the Indian Ocean. CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, or CAPE COLONY, an exten sive territory belonging to Great Britain, forming the S. ex tremity of Africa, between lat. 28 15 and 34 50 S., and Ion. 16 20 and 27 30 E. On the W. it is bounded by the Atlantic, and S. and E. by the Indian Ocean. Its boundaries, landward, have varied much at different periods, and could scarcely be said to be defined till 1847, when, by a proclama tion of the Governor, Sir H. Smith, they were declared to be on the N., the Gariep or Orange River; N.E., a branch of the same river, called the Nu Gariep ; and E., the rivers Krai, Klaas Smits, Zwart Kei, and Plaats, the Katberg moun tains, the rivers Chumie and Keiskamma ; greatest length, W. to E., 520 m. ; greatest breadth, N. to S., 430 m. ; area, about 170,000 sq. m. Cape Colony consists of a W. and an E. province, and, for administrative purposes, has been formed into divisions. These have, of course, increased with the accessions of territory which the colony has made at different times. Their number, previously 13, has recently been increased to 15, by the two new divisions of Victoria and Albert, chiefly situated along the E. frontier, and formed out of a tract generally known by the name of the Ceded Terri tory. In addition to this, there is a large unappropriated tract lying between the former N. boundary of the colony and its new boundary of Orange River. It has never been properly explored, but is supposed to have an extent of nearly 50,000 sq. m. According to the report of the Surveyor- General, it is, for the most part, as barren a desert as is to be found on the earth s crust. From this sweeping assertion may probably be excepted the country in the immediate vicinity of the Gariep or Orange River, which is said to occupy a climate more equable than some portions of the colony farther S., to be tolerably fertile, and to depasture large herds of cattle. Physical Features. The coast-line of the colony has an ex tent of about 1200 m. The N. W. portion, lying considerably out of the tract which is usually navigated, is imperfectly known, but is understood to consist of sandy plains, generally covered with shrubby plants. To the S.W. and S. it loses this character, and though seldom forming what may be called a bold and rocky coast, presents an almost uninterrupted series of headlands and indentations. The former occasion ally stretch out into lofty promontories, the principal of which are the celebrated Cape of Good Hope, forming the extremity of the isolated mountain mass, of which Table Mount is the culminating point, and Cape Agulhas, the most S. point of Africa. The latter are often scooped out into capa cious bays, which have ample depth of water, but lying ex posed in some direction or other, are very imperfect road steads. The chief of these bays are, on the W., St. Helen s Bay, Saldanha Bay, and Table Bay; and on the S., False Bay, with its important arm called Simon s Bay, St. Sebas tian s Bay, Mossel Bay, the Camtoos, and Algoa Bay. Among these, complete shelter is afforded only by Saldanha Bay, which possesses all the essentials of an excellent harbour; and Simon s Bay, which has been selected for the arsenal and chief naval station of the colony. The interior of the coun try may be described as consisting generally of a succession of plateaux and mountain ranges, which rise above each other, and increase in elevation as they recede from the coast, each range forming the boundary of a lower and the abutment of the next higher plateau ; and again lowering down consider ably towards the Gariep or Orange River. Beginning in the W., the first mountain range is the Bokkeveld, which lies about 40 m. inland, and stretches from N. to S., in a direction nearly parallel with the W. coast, till it reaches the neigh bourhood of the town of Worcester, lat. 33 40 S. Almost parallel to this range, but about 100 m. farther inland, is the Roggeveld. Between these ranges lies an extensive elevated plateau, which, according to its proximity to either range, takes the name of the Bokkeveld, or of the Roggeveld Karroo. In like manner several mountain ranges run parallel with the S. coast. The first and lowest stretches from W. to E., with out interruption, for about 200 m., leaving a belt along the coast which seldom exceeds 20 m. This range of hills con nects with the Bokkeveld, and properly forms one of its branches, takes, in the different localities through which it passes, the names of tne Zwellendam, the Outeniqua, and the Zitzikamme mountains. Behind it, and at a distance varying from 15 to 30 m., is a second range, connected like wise with the Bokkeveld, so as to form another of its branches, and known by the name of the Zwarte or Black Mountains. Between these two E. ranges lie the plateaux of Kannaland and Long Kloof. About 70 m. behind the Black Mountains is the last great E. range, which links with the Roggeveld, near lat. 32 10 S., and takes, in succession, the names of the Klein Roggeveld, the Nieuwreld, and the Sneeuw or Snowy- Mountains, the last forming the highest mountain chain in S. Africa, and attaining a height which has been variously esti mated, but probably is not less than 10,000 ft. The large space between this range and the Black Mountains is occu pied by a plateau, called the Great Karroo. On the W. it connects with the Bokkeveld and the Roggeveld Karroos, and on the E. with a similar tract called Caiideboo, and thus the whole of these united Karoos may be regarded as one im mense plateau, raised, on an average, 3000 ft. above the level CAPE OF GOOD HOPE 593 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE of the sea, surrounded on all sides by mountain ranges, and stretching continuously, though with varying width, for 500 m. The geological structure of the mountains appears to be very uniform. They have a nucleus of granite, which sometimes comes to the surface, and forms the predominating rock, but much more frequently the granite is over-lain by enormous masses of sandstone, easily distinguished by the numerous pebbles of quartz which are imbedded in it. The mountain summit, when composed of granite, is usually round and smooth, but when composed of the quartzoze sandstone is often perfectly flat, and assumes the form of which Table Mount is a well-known specimen. The thickness of this stra tum, in some localities, is not less than 2000 ft., and may then be seen forming steep mural faces resembling masonry, or ex hibiting a series of salient angles and indentations, as sharp, regular, and well defined, as if they had been chiseled. With the granite are often associated primitive schists, the decompo sition of which seems to have furnished the chief ingredients of the thin barren clay which forms the characteristic cover ing of the Karroos. In some places, particularly towards the S. coast, more recent formations appear, and limestone is fre quently seen piercing the surface. Hirers. Notwithstanding of its lofty mountain ranges and elevated plateaux, Cape Colony has scarcely any navigable river?. Elephant, or Olifant s River, which falls into the Atlantic in the W. of Clanwilliam division, is affected by the tide, and is navigable for boats for 30 m., but, like almost all the oilier rivers of the colony, is encumbered at its mouth by a bar, over which no ordinary sailing vessel can float. On the S. coast, the Breede, which empties itself into St. Sebas tian s Bay, in Zwellendam division, admits vessels of 200 tons into the port of Beaufort which stands at its mouth, but, im mediately thereafter, becomes navigable only by small craft. To judge by the map, one might be apt to suppose that the colony was remarkably well supplied with water. Streams are there seen traversing it in all directions, some of them ap parently receiving numerous tributaries, and running a course of several hundred miles ; and the fact is, that at the season when rains prevail, many of them are swollen into rivers of great width, and of a depth which wonld float the largest vessel in safety. But the fall of these rivers is as rapid as their rise had been, and the rains have no sooner ceased than they either disappear altogether, or sink down into deep chasms, and occupy a shallow rocky bed, overhung on both sides by lofty precipices of the prevailing sandstone. They thus not only become useless as a means of internal traffic, but cannot even be made available for purposes of irrigation. Climate. The temperature of the colony varies much in different localities, but its general average may be stated at 07 20 at Cape Town, that of the coldest month being 57, and that of the hottest 79 Fall. The extremes, however, have a much wider range; for Bunbury states, that, in 1838, during his visit to the Cape, the thermometer, on Jan. 25, stood, in the shade, at 94, and on the 28th at 90. In the mountainous districts, snow covers the highest sum mits during half the year, and the temperature, cooled down by the blasts which descend from them, often falls below freezing. The alternations of heat and cold are frequently great, as well as sudden. The S.E. wind sometimes begins to blow with all the characteristics of a simoom. At first it is almost stifflingly hot, and, gradually gathering strength, carries along with it an impalpable sand, which penetrates everywhere. The whole atmosphere is dimmed, and the trees gather a coating which makes them look as if they had been painted with red ochre. Shortly, however, the breeze cools, its violence abates, and the air regains its wonted clearness. This wind, disagreeable though it be, is regarded as not prejudicial to health, and the statistics of the colony certainly go to prove that there are few climates in which, under ordinary circumstances, human life is more likely to run its fullest course. Less rain falls in the interior, and on the W. coast of Cape Colony, than in any other part of the world, excepting rainless districts. It approximates in this respect to Patagonia, and the E. coast of the S. American peninsula. Vegetation. The vegetation of the Cape is of a peculiar and distinctive character. To this, however, there are some curious exceptions in the case of particular plants, where a connection manifests itself between the botany of this part of VOL. T. the world and that of very remote countries. Such occurs with the alder, and also with the bramble, one of the nine species of which that are enumerated by Ecklon and Zeyher as growing at the Cape appears to be the common English bramble or blackberry. There are also links of connection, as far as regards the similarity of some peculiar genera, with the botany of Australia, and that of S. America. Yet, no- j where else are genera and species confined within narrower j limits than here, without any apparent cause for a disper sion so arbitrary. In many respects, the vegetation in the I E. districts of the colony differs widely from that on the W., although several plants are common to both. Wheat is the grain most extensively cultivated at the Cape, but other cereals are also grown. With the exception of the silver-tree or Witteboom (Leucadendron argentevm), none of the indi genous trees in the vicinity of Cape Town, attain any consi derable size. The one named, grows to the height of from 30 to 40 ft., and is very conspicuous from the brilliant silky whiteness of its leaves. Its timber, however, like that of all the other trees of the colony, such as they are, is useless, being soft and brittle, but its bark is said to be astringent, and to contain a considerable quantity of tannin. The native station of this tree, which now forms groves at the back of the Table Mountain, is at the foot of the E. side of the same moun tain ; even at present it is almost entirely confined to the peninsula of the Cape. But the characteristic vegetation of the colony consists in its Ericas or heaths, Stapelise or carrion flowers, and Proteacese ; of the first, there are about 400 spe cies, and of the last 200, all exceedingly beautiful, but having a range so limited, that none are to be seen N. of the mountains which bound the Great Karroo, while by far the greatest num ber grow within 100 m. of Cape Town; the Protea Cynaroides, j bearing a flower the size of a man s hat, is found on Table j Mountain ; as for the singular and fleshy Stapelias, resembl ing a star-fish, about 100 species are mentioned, but they are almost entirely confined to the dry and sandy regions of the W. coast, where they cover a tract of many degrees of lati tude in extent. A great portion of the E. frontier of the colony and the adjacent districts are covered with extensive thickets of a strong succulent and thorny vegetation, called, by the natives, the bush. The most common plants of the bush are aloes, of many species, all exceedingly fleshy, and some beautiful ; the great red-flowering arborescent aloe, and some others, make a conspicuous, though by no means grace ful, figure in the E. part of the colony, where they grow irre gularly scattered over the parched and naked faces of the hills Other characteristic plants of the E. districts are the spek- boom (pork tree, Portulacariaafra], Scholia speciosa, Calitris or cedar, two or three species of Podocarpus or yellow-wood, and the great succulent Euphorbias, which grow into trees 40 ft. high, branching like a candelabrum, entirely leafless, prickly, and with a very acrid juice ; the Euphorbia melofbrmis, 3 ft. in diameter, lies on the ground, to which it is attached by slender fibrous roots, and is confined to the mountains of Graaf Reynet, where also is found the extraordinary Testudinaria or Hottentot s bread. The Enccphalartos, of which there are 15 species, all having the appearance of dwarf-palms, but without any similarity of structure, scarcely occur in the Cape Colony, properly so called, but extend over the mountains of Kaffraria, Tambookn, and Dclagoa Bay, almost to the tropics. The brilliant Strelitzias are almost peculiar to the districts of George and Swellendam. Throughout are found various spe cies of Acacia ; many beautiful ones of Oxalis ; innumerable species of Ixia, Gladiolus, Tritonia, Watsonia, Hesperanthera, and other handsome IridacesB, known by the name of Cape bulbs ; nor ought we to omit the endless varieties of Pelargo nium or Cape geranium, Gnaphalium, Xeranthemum, Dios- ma, Mesembryanthemum or fig-marigold, shrubby Bora- ginacea?, and curious, if not large or showy, blossomed Orchi- daceae. Such is an outline of the magnificent flora of S. Africa, from which the botanist has drawn more largely, and the gardens and green-houses of Europe have derived a greater variety of beautiful plants, than from any other quarter of the world. From their presence here, and almost nowhere else, Schouw has characterized this region as that of the Stapelias and Mesembryanthemums. Zoology. The animals indigenous to this colony are almost endlessly varied, from the most unwieldy bulks to the most delicate and graceful forms. Among quadrupeds may be 75 CAPE OF GOOD HOPE 59 1 CAPE RIVER enumerated the giraffe, elephant, rhinoceros, the hippopota mus, now much less frequently seen than formerly ; the lion, panther, hyena, jackal, wolf, wild boar, quagga, buffalo, ante lope, springbok, monkey, porcupine, ant-eater, &c. Among birds are the ostrich, eagle, vulture, pelican, flamingo, crane, guinea fowl, turtle dove, and smaller species in great variety. The reptiles include, among their number, the largest and most venomous of their class, including the boa constrictor, and the cobra da capello. In the surrounding seas, and along the coasts, whales and seals exist in such numbers, as to make the capture of them an important occupation, while both there and in the rivers there is no deficiency of smaller fish. Aborigines. The original inhabitants of the peninsula of S. Africa consist of two distinct negro races the Hottentot and the Kafir, which are again subdivided into 10 or 12 differ ent tribes. The Hottentots occupy the N. portion of the peninsula, and the Kafirs the N.E. The first are a mild and timid people, with some talent, but no energy. They make excellent shepherds and herdsmen, and are faithful and honest. When young, they are clean limbed, and well pro portioned ; complexion, a clear olive ; cheek-bones high and prominent ; teeth small and exquisitely enamelled. The Kafirs are a remarkably handsome race, tall, stout, beautifully formed and graceful in their movements, cheerful and contented ex pression of countenance, complexion verging towards black. The offshoots of these two great families are the Korannas or Koras, the Bojesmans or Bushmen, Namaquas, Damaras, Griquas, Bechuanas, Mantatas , and Zoolahs. Agriculture. The temperature is such as ought to favour the growth of all the ordinary cereals, and the first colonists who settled in the country expected to find the principal source of their wealth in the cultivation of them. The extent of territory allotted to them corresponded to this view, and they settled down in farms which never would have been im agined of sufficient size, had they not expected to make almost every acre of them arable. Some of the tracts were appar ently fertile enough to countenance this idea, but three-fourths of the country were obviously of a very different description, and the consequence was, that the colony threatened, for a time, to become a complete failure. Even where the soil was well adapted for the growth of wheat and the other cerealia, the climate often proved most unpropitious. Long-continued droughts destroyed the corn in the blade, and mildew destroyed it in the ear. At last a better system began to prevail. Ag riculture, formerly deemed paramount, became only of secon dary importance. Extensive tracts which never could have yielded a profitable return under the plough, were seen to be capable of supporting numerous flocks and herds, and the attention of the colonists was generally turned to pasture. The native breed of cattle has been supplanted by better breeds, or improved by crosses with them, so that the cattle of Cape Colony would not suffer by a comparison with those were exported ; in 1851, 5,661,218 Ibs. ; while the wine had decreased in the same period, from 740,000 to 460,540 gallons. The whale fishery, which was formerly pursued with success, has also declined. The total declared value of the exports from the whole colony, for the year ending January 5, 1852, was 651,377. The value of imports, as declared for the same time, was 1,583,218. The colonial produce exported, in 1 851-2, was of the declared value of 483,941 ; and it con sisted principally of wool, skins, hides, wine, flour, meal, salted fish, ostrich-feathers, aloes, horses, beef, pork, butter, oil, &c. Gocernment, Religion, Education, &c. The government of the Cape is vested in a governor, nominated by the Crown, and assisted by an executive council, composed of the commander of the forces, the chief justice, auditor-general, treasurer, and accountant-general. Each province is administered by a lieutenant-governor, and each district by a civil commissioner, subordinate to whom are magistrates, superintending tracts of country 15 or 20 m. in circuit. Justice is administered by a supreme court of judicature, presided over by a chief justice and three puisne judges, a high sheriff and deputy sheriff for each district, a court of vice-admiralty, police, and matrimo nial courts, &c. The revenue of the colony has generally exceeded the expenditure, but the estimates for 1849 would show a different result, though not to any great extent. The revenue for that year has been calculated at 213,424, the expenditure at 2 10, 000. The Dutch and English Reformed, Lutheran, R. Catholic, and Presbyterian churches in the Cape, are all entirely, or in part, supported by the Government. From returns for 1846, it appears that there were 115 con gregations belonging to the two provinces, of which 32 belonged to the Dutch Reformed church, 13 to the English Episcopa lians, 8 to different Presbyterian denominations, 4 to the R. Catholic church, 21 to the Wesleyan church, 23 to the Inde pendents, 5 Moravian, and 9 Lutheran, Sunday and evening schools are attached to each. There are also numerous mis sionary schools, and Bell s Lancasterian and other free schools in each district. In numerous localities throughout the colony, missionary exertions are carried on, by various deno minations of Christians, for the evangelization of the native population. History. The Cape of Good Hope was discovered, in 1486, by Bartholomew Diaz. In 1620, two commanders of the English East India Company took possession of the country in the name of King James ; but no settlement was then formed. In 1650, it was colonized by the Dutch Govern ment, and remained in their possession for 156 years. In 1795, it was taken possession of by a British armament, but restored to the Dutch in 1802. In 1806, it was again taken by the British, and confirmed to them at the general peace, in 1814. Almost ever since this period, a succession of hostili ties has occurred between the colonists and the Kafirs on the of many of the better improved districts of Europe, while the j E. and N.E. frontiers of the colony, the latter revenging the Cape sheep, remarkable only for the poriderousness of their i encroachments of the former on their territories by pluuder- tails, have been very generally supplanted by finer European breeds, and more especially by merinoes, which thrive admir ably, and promise soon to make wool the great staple of the colony. Grain, particularly wheat, is still grown to a consid erable extent in the lower districts, and in ordinary years, crops, both abundant and of good quality, are obtained. In ing their cattle, and otherwise disturbing them in their pos sessions. When these aggressions become altogether intoler able, and threaten the ruin of the colony, a regular military force is sent against the Kafirs, which ultimately succeeds, though not without much trouble, and often considerable loss of life, in driving back the enemy, and for a time, but for a the same districts, and also in Cape division, considerable time only, putting an end to their marauding incursions, attention is paid to the culture of the vine, which grows freely, After a short interval of quietness, the Kafirs recommence but, in general, is more remarkable for the quantity than for their aggressions, and the same results, as in previous in- the quality of its produce. It is well known in commerce by j stances, follow, to be in turn succeeded by similar proceed the name of Cape wine, but is not in much repute, and is un derstood to be extensively employed in adulterating some of the foreign white wines, especially Madeira. The only wine of the colony which has obtained a high reputation is the lus cious red wine, which grows in a very limited district S. of Cape Town, and is called Constantia, after the celebrated vineyards near the town of that name, where alone it is produced. Manufactures and Commerce. The former are necessarily limited to a few articles of primary necessity, the colonists supplying themselves with the ordinary manufactures from the mother country, of a better quality, and at a cheaper rate than they could hope to produce them. The exports of wool from the colony are increasing rapidly, those of wine decreasing. In 1827, only 44,441 Ibs. of wool ings. The latest Kafir war, broke out in December, JBftO, and did not terminate till after fully 18 months active hostili ties. In 1851, a representative constitution was granted to the colony, with a liberal free-tenancy suffrage ; every owner of a tenement valued at 25, or more, having a vote for members both of the legislative council and house of assembly. Pop. in 1850, Western division, 114,886; Eastern, 170,393; total, 285,279. (Bunbury, A Residence at the Cape of Good Hope ; Cape of Good Hope Almanac; Past and Present State of her Majesty s Colonies; Kant. Magazine; Mrs. Somerville s Phy sical Geography, &c.) CAPE RIVER, or VAUNKS, a river, Central America, Nicaragua and Mosquito country, rising near the city of Segovia, flowing E. by N. for nearly 300 m., and, after re ceiving several tributaries, falling into the Caribbean Sea at CAPE TOWN 595 CAPE VERB ISLANDS Cape Gracias a Dios. It passes through a rich and fertile country, has some important towns on its banks, and is navi gable for a considerable distance from the sea. The upper part of its course is obstructed by falls. CAPE TOWN, a tn. S. Africa, cap. of Cape Colony, on the lower or S. side of Table Bay, at the N. foot of Table Mountain, 31 m. N. the promontory of the Cape of Good Hope The view of the town and its vicinity from the bay anchorage is Soimdingt VL- 1 c CAPE JJfTt TABLE BAY. Scale of Mile.?. very striking. Behind rise the perpendicular sides of Table Mountain, while, on either hand, are the barren crags of the Lion s Head and Devil s Peak ; the former usually capped with a cloud. It is regularly built, lighted with gas, the streets, many of them wide, but most of them unpaved, cross at right angles, while the houses, with their little stoops, (porches) and gable fronts, exhibit many traces of their Dutch origin. Rows of oak, poplar, and pine trees, line the sides of the principal avenues ; and the shops are well supplied with large, well built, contain an infirmary, &c., and have a largo area in front as a parade-ground. Another important Govern ment establishment is the observatory, well known by the la bours of Sir J. Herschell. At noon, daily, a ball is dropped here as at Greenwich, to indicate true time to mariners. The botani cal garden of the Baron von Ludwig contains a fine collection of plants. In the town are English, Dutch, Lutheran, Presby terian, Independent, Methodist, and R. Catholic churches ; the burgher senate-house, the chief court-houses, several free and other schools ; a theatre, a spacious market place, a commer cial exchange, with a fine commercial hall, and a public lib rary of about 30,000 volumes. Provisions, fruit, and veget ables, are abundant and cheap. Water is supplied from Government tanks in the dry season. The police here is well organized, on a military footing. Crimes of a flagrant kind are rare. The town is divided into 12 districts, and each district into four wards, over each of which there is a commissioner and four wardmasters, chosen by the people ; these, together, appraise town property and assess the local taxes. Within the town, also, is held the supreme court of justice of the colony. Cape Town is defended, on the r. side, inland, by a regular citadel ; on the 1., towards the sea, by Amsterdam Battery, and some other works. To the port, at which is the custom house, large vessels cannot come ; but the anchorage in the bay is commodious, and usually safe. Two quays, extending from the beach into the bay, enable lighters to take in and discharge cargoes at all times of the tide. Great efforts are made both by the Government and the municipality to render Table Bay a safe harbour. It is now visited annually by a large number of vessels ; still the casualties do not amount to a third per cent. From 1824 to 1848, it was visited by 9615 vessels, of which only 28 were lost or seriously injured. The numbers, 1841-1848, were as follows: Tonnag.. ..191,922 ..158,413 ..162,706 ..164,417 by the great 184-5... 1846... 1847... 1848... Vessels. ....680... ....550... CAPE TOWN AND TABLE MOUNT.-From near Amsterdam B European goods. Government-house is a commodious edifice. The grounds are planted with fine old oaks, and partly formed into a public walk. The Government offices are here, and in the precincts is the S. African college. The barracks are Vessels. Tonnage. 1841 433 133,963 1842 478 128,224 1843 405 112,870 1844 539 159,802 1848 560. The increase of vessels, in 1845, was cans numbers that year employed in the guano trade. The walks near the town are pretty, and neatly kept. One of them, which leads along to the top of the hill overlooking the town and bay, and giving a view of the sandy plain and distant mountains, with Green Point (where is a light-house), and Robbin s Island in the distance, is peculiarly picturesque. The drives around are pleasant, especially that to Green Point, 2 m. W. The climate of the whole locality is considered salu brious ; and the place is much frequented by Indian residents on leave of absence, whose pay (if holding official situations) is here usually con tinued to them. Cape Town was founded by the Dutch in 1 650. Pop. 22,543. CAPE VERD, the most W. promon tory and point of Africa, in Senegambia, between the mouth of the Senegal on the N., and that of the Gambia on the S. ; lat. 14 32 6" N. ; Ion. 17 34 W. (R.) It was discovered by the Portuguese, Denis Fernandez, in 1445. CAPE VERD ISLANDS [Portu- s^ V guese, Ilhas do Cabo Verde, Illias- Verdes], an isl. group, N. Atlantic, W. coast of Africa, consisting of 10 principal and several smaller isles, belonging to Por tugal, between lat. 14 43 , and 17 13 N.; and Ion. 22 28 , and 25 27 W. They take their name from Cape Verd, which is about 320 m. E. of them, and is said to be so called from the verdure _____ i= ^_ f a group of enormous baobab trees which crowns its summit. The largest and most important is Santiago; the ,ttery. others are Fogo, Brava, Mayo, St. Ari- tonio, St. Vincent, St. Lucia, St. Nico las, Sal, and Boavista. All the islands are evidently vol canic ; most of them are rugged and lofty, but some have sheltered bays, with good anchorage. The most elevated is Fogo, on which there is a volcano, which, after 50 years CAPE VEKD ISLANDS 596 CAPELLADAS quiescence, recently became active, and the peak of which has a height of 9157 ft. The island is fertile, and produces great quantities of maize, bean?, and various kinds of fruits. The group, however, taken as a whole, docs not deserve this all the crops. The Cape Verds were discovered by the Portuguese in 1149, and shortly after colonized 40,000. Pop. about character ; the surface is for the most part stoney, and often barren. Rain seldom falls ; water is scarce, and generally, too, of indifferent quality, while the climate is decidedly unhealthy, intense heat prevailing from November to July, and storms and fogs during the remainder of the year. The largest of the islands is Santiago. It is 32 m. long and 15 broad, and though possessing a few fertile spots, is generally mountainous and sterile. Its town, Porto Praya, has an ex cellent harbour, though inferior to that of Porto Grande in St. Vincent, which is the best in the whole group. The chief products are maize, rice, and haricots, bananas, guavas, lemons, oranges, pine apples, cocoa nuts, figs, and melons. The vine yields two crops a year, and good wine might be made, but the Government prohibits it. Coffee has been success fully introduced ; the cotton and indigo plants are indigenous, and both they and the sugar cane are partially cultivated. Orchil, once monopolized and then set free, has again been monopolized by the Government, on the ground that the de terioration produced by the free traders had diminished the quantity exported, and seriously affected the revenue, which, from orchil alone, has in some years reached 24,000. The principal trees are the palm, tamarind, and baobab ; the chief domestic animals are goats, asses, and poultry. Monkeys, wild cats, and pigeons abound, but there are no serpents or venomous reptiles. Numerous turtles frequent the coasts, and whales are captured in the neighbouring seas. On the shores of all the islands amber is found. The chief manufac ture is salt ; the others are linen, leather, soap, and earthen ware. In 1842, the number of vessels entered was 78 (7446 tons), and cleared 76(7446 tons). Of these, 32 Portu guese entered, and 32 cleared ; 28 British entered, and 26 cleared. The natives are indolent but inoffensive, and speak a Portuguese jargon, called Lingua Creoula. These islands, with some possessions on the coast, form the Portuguese pro vince of Cape Verd, of which the capital, formerly Porto Praya, is now Mindello, in St. Vincent. In 1850, the island of San Nicolas was visited by measles and hooping cough, which, in four months, carried off 700, in a population of 4500, and scarcely an individual escaped the malady ; and in September, of the same year, a hurricane, in three or four hours, destroyed about 400 houses, and swept away CAPE WEATIT, the N.W. extremity of Scotland, en. Sutherland. There is a light-house on it, bearing a revolving light, 400 ft. above the level of the sea, showing a bright and red light alternately; lat. 58 38 N.; Ion. 4 58 30" W. (K.) CAPE YORK, the terminating point of the N.E. coast of Australia, having the Gulf of Carpentaria on the W., and the S. Pacific Ocean on the E.; lat. 10 38 S. ; Ion. 142 33 E. ; separ ated by Torres Strait from Papua, from which it is distant about 100 m. It is generally high and rocky, with occa sional grassy flats between the ridges and the sea ; in other places, the pre cipices come down to the beach. A shallow recess at the extremity of the Cape, which has been called Evan s Bay, lat. 10 45 S. ; Ion. 142 38 E., was visited by the surveying expedition commanded by Captain Blackwood, and a very full account given of it by Mr. Jukes, naturalist to the expedition, who considers it, as regards climate, one of the comparatively favoured spots of Au stralia, frequent showers falling there throughout the whole year, and thus permitting the existence of permanent fresh waterpools, and green grass dur ing even the driest season. Garden ground and grass land, to a consider able extent, is also obtainable, with situations for houses easily defensible, and exposed to the full draught of a refreshing sea-breeze. Wood and water abound, and the anchorage is safe. But the place has other advantages of a most important kind, according to Mr. Jukes. In cases of accident to vessels in Torres Strait, where accidents are frequent, from the intricate and dangerous nature of the navigation, Cape York, were it made the site of a station, would afford a ready place of refuge to those who might escape in boats. Its rocky elevations, besides, render it a conspicuous object from the sea. In a military point of view, also, it would be important, in respect of affording protection, in case of war, to our commerce between the S. Pacific and Indian Oceans; and in the event of steam communication being established between India and New S. Wales, by way of Torres Strait, Cape York would necessarily become one of the coaling stations. Mr. Jukes describes the natives he met with here as quiet and friendly, but of very low intelligence. They had the thin-legged, spare, lanky form, of all the Austra lian people. Their hair, however, was like that of Europeans, and worn either straight, or waving in broad open curls. Houseless and homeless, without any kind of cultivation, and destitute of fruits and vegetables, they pass their lives either in the search for food, or in listless indolence. These Austra lians, says Mr. Jukes, sat listlessly looking at us, standing where we told them, fetching anything or doing anything we ordered them, with great docility indeed, but with com plete want of interest and curiosity. On our shooting a kite or two, they instantly seized them, plucked off some of the feathers, and then warming the body a little at the fire, tore it open and eat it, entrails and all. - (Jukes s Narrative of the Surveying Voyage of H. M.S. Fly, in 1842-1846.) CAPEL, four pars. Eng. : 1, Surrey; 4990 ac. Pop. 983. 2, (le Feme) Kent; 1490 ac. Pop. 247. 3, (Sf.Andreic) Suffolk ; 2400 ac. Pop. 222. 4, (St. Mary] Suffolk ; 1210 ac. Pop. 608. CAPELLADAS, a tn. Spain, Catalonia, prov. of, and 34 m. W.N.W. Barcelona, in a fertile plain. It contains a parish church, chapel, seven schools, a townhall, prison, hos pital, cemetery, and some public baths. The inhabitants arc chiefly employed in weaving coarse cloth, cotton and woollen fabrics, paper making, distilling brandy, and in agriculture. Pop. 2798. CAPELLE 597 CAPPAGH WHITE CAPELLE properly, GREVELDUIN CAPELLE, a vii. Holland, prov. N. Brabant, 12 m. W.S.W. Hertogenbosch ; with a handsome church, school, aud two annual markets. Pop. 1160. CAPELLE-OP-DEN-YssEL, a vil. Holland, prov. S. Hol land, 4 m. E. by N. Rotterdam. It has a church with a fine tower, a school, a branch of the Public Utility Society, and a literary association. Pop., including surrounding hamlets, 1050. CAPESTANG [anc. Caput Starjni], a tn. France, dep. Herault, 9 in. W. Beziers, on the Canal du Midi, and near the N. bank of an extensive lagoon, to which it gives its name. It is surrounded by walls flanked with towers, both in a ruinous condition. The church contains some Gothic sculp tures, and within the town are the remains of a lloman bridge. Pop. 1831. CAPESTERRE (LA). 1, Le Mariyot, a tn. W. Indies, isl. Guadeloupe, 9 in. E.N.E. La Basse-Terre, at the, S.E. angle of the island and at the mouth of the Riviere-aux-Peres. It is the capital of the most fertile and salubrious district of the colony. Coffee, cacao, aud sugar, are cultivated around it. 2, A tn. W. Indies, S.E. coast isl. Marie-Galante, cap. of a district. CAPESTRANO, a tn. and com. Naples, prov. Abruzzo, Ultra II., 23 m. S.E. Aquila. It is situated on a hill, on which there is a castle, contains two handsome churches and a convent, and has two annual fairs. Pop. 2408. CAPIBARI, atn. and several streams, Brazil. 1, A tn., prov. of, and 120 m. W. Sao-Paulo, on a stream of its own name, an affluent of the Tiete. It has a church and school ; and the building of canoes, and the distilling of brandy, are carried on. Pop. 2000. 2, A river, prov. Sao-Paulo, falling into the Tiete" on its 1. bank, 22 m. below Porto-Feliz. It traverses the town of its own name, and its banks are covered with timber suited for building canoes of the largest size. 3, A river, prov. Santa-Catharina, falling into the Tubarao, about 10m. from the sea. It is navigable for about 30 m. 4, A river, prov. Sao-Paulo, a tributary of the Ivahy, an affluent of the Parana. CAPIBARIBE, a river, Brazil, prov. Pernambuco, ris ing in lat. 7 50 S. ; Ion. 37 45 W. ; flowing E. and S., and falling by two mouths into the Bay of Recife. It is navigable for canoes and flat-bottomed boats a considerable way inland. Total course about 200 m., exclusive of windings. CAPISTRELLO, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra II., 5 m. S.S.W. Avezzano, 3 m. W. LakeFucino. It contains two churches and an hospital. Pop. 1300. CAPITANATA, a prov. Naples, on the Adriatic, com prising the small group of Tremiti and the islet of Pianosa, bounded N. aud E. by the Adriatic, S. by provs. Bari and Basilicata, and W. by Principato Ultra and Sannio: area, 3173 sq. m. W. and N. it is intersected by spurs of the Ap- penines, one of which terminates in the wooded promontory of Gargano. S. and E. extends a vast sandy plain, called the Tavoliere di Puglia, on the excellent pastures of which more than a million and a half of sheep are annually wintered. The coast is generally low, and has no good port. The pro vince is well watered by the Candelaro and its affluents, the Cervera, and the Carapella, all flowing to the Adriatic. Wheat, though cultivated only in the valleys, is superabund ant ; legumes, fruit, and liquorice, are plentiful ; the wines produced are in general good, especially those of San Gio vanni, Viesti, and Manfredonia ; and likewise the olive oil of Gargano ; tobacco and manna are also cultivated. The principal riches of the province, however, consist in fine large cattle, esteemed horses, and sheep, the last yielding excellent wool. Goats and pigs are reared in large numbers. Marine salt is gathered in the lagoons, and good potter s clay, lime stone, and alabaster are obtained. There is little fishing, and no manufactures. Trade in grain, fruits, liquorice, honey, and wood ; horses, cattle, wool, cheese, and hides. Its capital is Foggia ; ports, Viesti, Manfredonia, and Rodi. The pro vince is divided into three districts, Foggia, Bovino, and San Severo, comprising 28 circondario, aud 62 comune. Pop. 294,055. CAPIVARI, a tn. Brazil, prov. Rio -de -Janeiro, near Cabo Frio, with two churches, and inhabitants engaged in agriculture, and in felling and preparing timber for the mar ket at Rio-de Janeiro. Pop., tn. and dist, 3000. CAPIZ. 1, A prov. Philippines isl. Panay, N. coast, and including several small adjacent islands, is about 80m. E. to W., by 57 N. to S. It is undulating, and its lower grounds are flooded in the wet season, rendering it fertile in rice. It has several rivers, some of which are filled with crocodiles. None of them appear to be navigable, but all are well wooded. The coasts are dangerous at certain seasons, but they have two excellent safe harbours, that of Bataan and that of Capiz, both capable of admitting vessels of medium size. Gold and silver are found in the province. 2, A tn., cap. of above prov., on a plain near the sea, and surrounded by the rivers Panay, Panitan, and Ivisan, with some houses of stone, and the re mainder ofnipapalm. It is defended by a fortletand a small garrison. In the rainy seasons it is sometimes inundated. The inhabitants are laborious, and fond of commerce and fishing. Pop. 11,145. CAPIZZI [anc. Capitum }, a tn. Sicily, prov. Messina, 10 m. S.E. Mistretta. Marble, petroleum, asphaltum, and iron pyrites are found in the neighbourhood. Pop. 3488. CAPLE, par. Eng. Kent ; 1630 ac. Pop. 516. CAPO-Di-SEPKA, and CAPO -DI-SOTTA [called also CAPO- DI-SASSARI, and CAPO-DI-CAGLIARI], the two govs. into which isl. Sardinia is divided ; the former the N., and the latter the S. CAPO D ISTRIA [anc. jErjida], a seaport tn. Austria, Illyria, gov. of, and 9 m. S.S.W. Trieste, on a small rocky island, Gulf of Trieste ; lat. (church) 45 32 42" N. ; Ion. 13 44 15" E. (R.) It is connected with the mainland by a causeway of about J m. long. It is defended by an old fort, now going to decay. Ruined walls, falling houses, and dark narrow streets, give it a very gloomy appearance. It con tains a cathedral, a lofty edifice, faced in the Venetian style with marble, and containing some fine paintings, sculptures, and arabesques ; several other churches, a liandsome Gothic townhouse, a corn exchange, and theatre. It is the seat of a bishopric, and has six monasteries and two nunneries, a gym nasium, two superior schools, several hospitals, and a peni tentiary. The town is very inadequately supplied with water by an aqueduct, and from rain cisterns. There are manufac tures of soap, candles, leather, and sea salt, about 18,000 bushels of the latter being manufactured yearly; and a con siderable trade, besides, in wine, oil, and fish, the fisheries being pretty extensive. The harbour is capacious, but is resorted to by fishing boats only. After the 10th century, Capo d Istria belonged alternately to the Venetians and Genoese, and was made by the former, in 1478, the capital of Istria. Pop. 6300. CAPODRISI, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Terra di La- voro, 3 m. S.W. Caserta. It contains a handsome church, adorned with pictures and statues, and a charitable endow nient. Pop. 2415. CAPOONACAUGANY, a river, Upper Canada, rising in some lakes N. side the ridge of hills running parallel to Lake Superior. It flows N., joins the Necaugany, and sub sequently falls into the Albany, lat. 51 5 N. ; Ion. 85 30 W., about 200 m. W. by S., the entrance of the latter into St. James s Bay. CAPOSELE, a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Citra, 12 m. N.N.E. Campagna, near the source of the Sele. Pop. 4480. CAPPADOC1A, an anc. prov. Asia Minor, now included in Asiatic Turkey ; bounded, N. by Pontus, E. by the Eu phrates and Armenia Minor, S. by Mount Taurus, and W. by Phrygia and Galatia, between lat. 37 16 and 39 28 N. ; Ion. 32 50 18" and 39 E. It is mountainous and well watered, and was celebrated for the production of excellent wheat, as well as for its fine pasture, and its superior breed of horses, asses, and sheep. It was subdued by the Persians under Cyrus ; and after the time of Alexander the Great, it was governed by kings of its own, till A.D. 17, when Tiberius re duced it to the form of a Roman province. Christianity was early propagated in Cappadocia, as we learn by the address of the first general epistle of the apostle Peter. CAPPADOCIA, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra II., 8 m. W.S.W. Avezzano, a little N.W. of the hill in which the Liri rises. Pop. 1771. CAPPAGH, 2 pars. Ireland. 1, Limerick ; 1268 ac. Pop. 755. 2, Tyrone; 37,671 ac. Pop. 13,330. CAPPAGHWH1TE, a vil. Ireland, co. of, and 7 m. N. Tipperary. It is a constabulary police station, and has five annual fairs. Pop. 1046. CA1TANACUSIIY 593 CAKABOBO CAPPANACUSHY, a group of islets and an old castle, Ireland, co. Kerry. The islets are situated 3 m. W. Ken- mare, at the head of the estuary of the river of same name ; and the remains of the castle are on the mainland opposite. CAPPEL, a vil. Switzerland, can. of, and 10 m. S.S.W. Zurich. It contains an old Cistercian convent, founded in 1 185 ; a poorhouse, once the prefecture ; a presbytery, school- house, &c., and a simple monument, erected, in 1838, in memory of Zwingle, the eminent reformer, killed Oct. 12, 1530, in a contest between the troops of the R. Catholic and Protestant cantons, which took place near Cappel. P. 578. CAPPELN. See KAPPELN. CAPPOGE, par. Irel., Louth ; 1284 ac. Pop. 568. CAPRAIA, orCAPRAJA [anc. ^Egilium],&nis\. Sardinian Ptates, Mediterranean, 22 m. N.W. Elba; lat. (castle, E. side) 44 2 36" N. ; Ion. 9 50 45" E. (R.) It is of volcanic origin, about 12 m. in circumference, mountainous, and of difficult ap proach, except on the E. side, where the town of Capraja is situate. The port here is safe, and defended by a fort. Wine is the only produce of the island. Most of the inhabitants are fishermen. Wild goats now, as formerly, abound in it. Pop. 2500. CAPRARA. See TREMITI ISLANDS. CAPRAROLA, a tn. Papal States, deleg. of, and 9 m. S.E. Viterbo, containing a celebrated castle, built on the slopes of Mount Ciniino, said to be the masterpiece of the architect Vignola, and to be unrivalled, at least in Italy, as a specimen of the fortified domestic architecture of the 16th cen tury. It was built for Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, nephew of Pope Paul III., and is richly decorated with frescoes and arabasques, each room being devoted to some incident in the history of the Farnese family, or to some allegorical subject. CAPRERA, a small isl. N.E. the island of Sardinia, and separated from it by a narrow strait. It is 6 m. long N. to S., and nearly 2 m. broad. It is fertile, and produces both corn and good pasture. CAPRI [anc. Caprece], an isl. belonging to Naples, Me diterranean, 3J m. E. Cape Campanella, which separates the Gulf of Naples from the Gulf of Salerno ; lat. (S. point) 40 32 N. ; Ion. 14 11 45" E. (R.) It is about 9 m. in circumfer ence, and is surrounded by perpendicular cliffs, which afford only one landing-place. The island consists of two mountains of limestone, remarkable for their picturesque shape ; and between them lies a well-cultivated valley, which yields grain, the choicest grapes, olives, and other fruit. The inhabit ants are occupied in the production of oil and wine, in fishing, and in catching quails, which come in immense numbers from Africa to the shores of Italy. Rows of nets are placed across the breaks in the woods and chasms in the rocks, to intercept these birds in their annual flights, and the quantity taken is almost incredible. The climate is remarkably fine, and a re sidence in Capri is recommended in cases of chronic-bron chitis. The island is supposed to have been originally peopled by a tribe from the Epirus. The Emperor Augustus resided here during his illness ; and Tiberius made this place the scene of his debaucheries during the last ten years of his j a favourite place of resort of the Romans, on account of its Inside this ridge, on which is a belt of small trees, is a sandy plain covered with a short scrubby vegetation, a foot or two in height. Between the trees on the ridge, and in some other spots, there is a thin layer of vegetable soil. The island abounds with sea fowl and other aquatic birds, especially black noddies, with whose nests the trees are laden. Most of the islands arc. encompassed by coral reefs, with lagoons inside, in which sharks and turtle swim about in great numbers, the former of immense size and strength. Turtle is so abundant, that one night, says Mr. Jukes, Lieut., now Commander, Shad- well, being on one of the islands observing star altitudes, was actually obliged to place sentries round him, to prevent the turtle from running over his artificial horizon as it lay on the ground. They were chiefly green turtle, and the kind called loggerheads. ( Voy. H.M.S. Fly, 1842 to 1846.) CAPRINO, two tns. Austrian Italy. 1, A tn., gov. Ve nice, prov. of, and 16m. N.E. Verona, cap. dist. of same name, on the small river Ri, a tributary of the Adige, and surrounded by hills. It contains a parish and a subsidiary church, three chapels, and a record office for the district. Pop. 3500. 2, Atn.,gov. Milan, prov. of, and 10 in. W. N.W. Bergamo,near 1. bank, Adda. It is well built and clean, and comprises a spacious church, townhall, public library, and convent. Hard ware, and weaving silken and woollen fabrics, is carried on. Pop. 1419. CAPRYCKE,atn.andcom Belgium, prov. E. Flanders, 12 m. N.N.W. Ghent, with a tannery, three breweries, two roperies, and manufactures of wooden pumps and clogs. There is also some trade in agricultural produce, wood, cattle, and linen. Pop. 3859. CAPSALI, a seaport tn. Ionian Islands, cap. of Cerigo, near S. side of the island, upon the slope of a mountain. It has a commodious harbour, defended by a fort. Pop. 5000. CAPUA [anc. Capoa and Capua], a city, Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, in a plain 18 m. N. Naples, 1. bank, Vol- turno, which is crossed by a handsome bridge. It is the seat of an archbishopric, is well fortified, has a strong citadel, and is reckoned one of the keys of the kingdom, being the prin cipal fortress that covers the approach to Naples. It has two magnificent gates, three principal streets, two handsome squares, and three public fountains. The town is dirty, but the houses are well built. The principal public buildings are the cathedral, with a cupola, supported by 18 columns ; the church of the Annunciation ; the governor s palace, and the townhall. There are also 18 parish churches, several con vents for both sexes, a seminary, a college, military school, extensive barracks, four hospitals, and a handsome theatre. A noted fair is held here annually on Dec. 26. The ancient city was situated 2^ m. S.E. from the modern town, which was built from its ruins by the Lombards in the 9th century. The site is now occupied by a considerable town, called Santa-Maria-di-Capoa. The ancient Capua, one of the finest and most agreeable cities of Italy, was of such extent, as to be compared to Rome and Carthage. Hannibal wintered at ancient Capua after the battle of Cannae. It was life. He is said to have built 12 villas in different parts of the island, but, after his death, they were destroyed by order of the senate. Numerous ruins and fragments of ancient monuments still remain, among which is a temple cut in the side of a hill, said to have been dedicated by Augustus to his mother; besides portions of aqueducts, baths, and palaces. The island contains two towns, Capri and Anacapri. Capri is the seat of a bishop. It is built on the acclivity of a hill, and contains a cathedral, and some other churches. Pop. about 1800. (See ANACAPRI.) Pop. of isl., 3301. CAPRIATA, a vil. Sardinian States, Piedmont, div. Genoa, prov. of, and 7 m. S.W. Novi, r. bank, Orba. P. 2365. CAPRICORN (CAPE), Australia, N.E. coast, about 30 m. N. Port Curtis; lat. 23 18 S. ; Ion. 151 43 E. (R.) CAPRICORN (GROUP), an assemblage of islets and reefs, N.E. coast Australia, having 152 meridian and the tropic of Capricorn passing through them, whence their name. They are all much alike in their geological characteristics, and general features. One of them, called First Bunker s Island, about a quarter of a mile in diameter, is composed of coarse fragments of worn corals and shells, bleached by the weather. At the back of it a ridge of the same materials, 4 or 5 ft. high, and as many yards across, completely encircle the island. | bia. Pop. 96,967. agreeable situation and its healthy climate ; and many exist ing ruins attest its ancient splendour. Pop. 8100. CAPUL, isl. Indian Archipelago, one of the Philippines off the N.W. coast Samar ; lat. 12 31 N. ; Ion. 124 9 E. CAPURSO, a tn. and com. Naples, prov. of and 7 in. S.S.E. Bari; in a plain, and celebrated for its almonds. Pop. 3160. CAPUTH, par. Scot., Perth ; 16,000 ac. Pop. 2317. CARA, a small isl. Scotland, co. Argyle, at the S. side of Gigha, with which it forms a parish. See GIGHA. CARABANCHEL ALTO Y BAJO, two vils. Spain, New Castile, prov. of, and 3 m. S. Madrid, each possessing a church, schools, town and session houses, and being adorned with vil las, gardens, fountains, &c., belonging to the nobility of Mad rid. United pop. 1804. CARABOBO, a prov. Venezuela, bounded by Coro and the Caribbean Sea N., Caracas E., Varinas S., and Truxillo W. ; area, 8148 sq. m. Its principal productions comprise coffee, wheat, tobacco, indigo, and cotton. Valencia is the capital, 30 m. S.W. from which is the village of Carabobo, whence the province is named, and where a decisive battle was fought in 1821, which secured the independence of Colum- CARACA 599 CARBONARA CARACA, a mountain range, Brazil, prov. Minas-Geraes, N. of the city of Mariauna. It is a portion of the Cordillera of Mantiqueira, being one of its highest ranges ; and liquorice, ialap, sarsaparilla, and other medicinal plants, grow naturally on it. CARACAS, a group of six small uninhabited isls. Carib bean Sea, coast of Venezuela, a little W. Cuniana. CARACAS, SANTI AGO-DE- LEON-DE-CARACAS, a tn. S. Ame rica, cap. of Republic and of the dep. Venezuela, and of prov. Caracas, 3000 ft. above the level of the sea, 11 m. S.S.E. La Guayra, from which it is separated by a chain of mountains, whose highest point on the road is 5160 ft. ; lat. 10 30 N. ; Ion. 66 54 W. (K.) The river Guayra bounds it on the S., and is everywhere fordable near the town, excepting after heavy rains, when it runs with great rapidity, but subsides almost as suddenly as it rises. Three other streams pass close to the town, namely, the Arauco, across which is a handsome bridge ; the Caroata, which separates one part of the city from the rest, and across which is another bridge ; and the Catucho. The town is well and regularly built, the streets being in general about 100 yards apart, and intersecting each other at right angles. They are almost all furnished with fountains. The houses are solidly built of brick or earth, faced with stucco, often richly decorated. Many of them have terraced roofs. There are several squares, the chief of which is the Plaza Mayor or Great Square, where the market for fruits, vegetables, fish, &c., is held ; the E. side is principally occu pied by the cathedral, a clumsy structure, which was much damaged by an earthquake in 1826 ; the S. by the college ; and the W. by the public prison. The chief public build ings are the churches, of which there are seven, all solidly built, and in the interior richly ornamented ; and the con vents, of which there are five three for monks and two for nuns. The most splendid church is that of Alta Gracia. From the Catucho the town is well supplied with water, which is dispensed to the inhabitants in public fountains, as well as in pipes and reservoirs. Caracas is the seat of an archbishop, and has a university, founded in 1778, and three hospitals. Its trade is considerable, and consists of the products of the adjacent fertile valleys. For its exports, see LA GUAYRA. The climate is healthful, but earthquakes are common, that of 1812 destroyed nearly all the houses, and upwards of 10,000 of the inhabitants ; and though the town has been rebuilt, the houses are inferior to what they were before that dreadful visitation. The city, founded in 1567, by Diego Losada, was formerly the capital of the Captain-generalship of the Caracas, and is the birthplace of Bolivar. Pop. about 50,000. The PROVINCE lies between lat. 7 38 and 10 26 N., and Ion. 65 30 and 68 W. ; bounded, N. by the Ca ribbean Sea, W. Carabobo and Varinas, S. Achaguas, and Venezuela and Guiana, and E. Barcelona; area, 45,264 geo. sq. m. The surface is partly mountainous and partly flat ; the former towards the sea coast, where several deep inden tations occur, and form good harbours and roadsteads ; the latter towards the interior, and particularly towards the S., where the country stretches out into vast plains. The most important vegetable production of the province is cacao, the quality being the best of all that is brought to the Euro pean market ; but all the usual tropical crops are grown in perfection, among which may be specified coffee and indigo. The province is divided into 16 cantons, of which that of Ca- raccas, containing the capital, though not the largest, is the most fertile and best peopled. Pop. 242,888. CARACOL, BABAHOGO, or OXIBA, a river, New Granada, prov. Guayaquil, rising on the N. side of the mountain Car- guairazo, about 85 m. S. by W. Quito, and after a S.S.W. course of 90 m., for the greater part of which it is navigable, falling into Lake Sambovamban, 25 m. N. Guayaquil. CARAGLIO, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 7 m. W. Coni, on the Grana. Spun silk and silk fabrics are manu factured here. Pop. 6000. CARAMAN, and CARAMANIA. See KARAMAN and KA- RAMANIA. CARAMAN, a tn. France, dep. Haute Garonne, 16 m. E.S.E. Toulouse. It has numerous fairs. Pop. 1381. CARAMNASSA, a river, Hindoostan, which separates the prov. of Bahar from that of Allahabad. It rises in a hilly disa-ict, about 55 m. S.S.E. Benares ; lat. 24 40 N. ; Ion. 83 40 E. ; bends round to a N.N.E. direction, and falb into the Ganges 10 in. above Buxar. Its whole course is about 75 m. CARANG ASSEM, a tn. Indian Archipelago, isl. Bali, on the strait of Lombok; lat. 8 42 S. ; Ion. 116 34 E. (R.) Ships may here obtain water, bullocks, hogs, and poultry. The country around is fertile and well cultivated. CARANGAM1TE, a large, shallow, salt-water lake, S. Australia, dist. Portland Bay, about 50 m. W. the town of Geelong. It is upwards of 90 m. in circumference, but to the S. it is so shallow, as to be crossed by the natives for a dis tance of 15 m. ; it is deeper to the N. CARANJA, an isl. W. coast, Hindoostan, between Bom bay and the mainland; lat. 18 53 N. ; Ion. 73 E. It is 4 m. long and 2 broad, and is low and woody, excepting two remarkable hills, called Great and Little Caranja Hills, the former near the S. part of the island, the latter on the N. Great Caranja is very conspicuous, being of a tabular form, with a steep declivity at each end. CARANO, a small vil. Austria, Tyrol, prov. of, and 21 m. N.E. Trent, r. bank, Aviso, in the vicinity of which are calcare ous and saline springs ; temperature 38 to 40, clear, and of an earthy flavour, and said to be efficacious in cutaneous affections. Pop. 804. CARATE, a tn. Austrian Italy, prov. of, and 15 m. N. Milan, E. slope of a hill, r. bank, Adda, here crossed by a wooden bridge. It was formerly fortified, and in its vicinity several engagements have taken place. Silken, woollen, and linen fabrics are woven. Pop. 2282. CARAVACA, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 43 m. W. by N. Murcia, on the side of a hill crowned by an ancient castle, 1. bank, Caravaca, here crossed by a stone bridge. The houses are generally commodious, well constructed, and in many cases adorned with iron balconies. Most of the larger streets are wide, paved, and clean ; there are five squares, the prin cipal of which contains the Government-house, head inn, prison, and townliall, the last a spacious and handsome struc ture, with an elegant balcony and a central arch, forming an entrance from thu square into the principal street, and into the edifice itself. The parish church, a fine specimen of the Ionic style, completed in 1600, has a lofty tower of hewn stone ; its interior is tastefully decorated, and contains numerous monu mental and pictorial works of considerable merit. There are, besides, several conventual churches and a variety of chapels. The remaining public buildings are two hospitals, a theatre, cemetery, and numerous schools. Manufactures: linen, woollen, and hempen fabrics, paper, soap, earthenware, cop per vessels, leather, brandy, oil, and wine. There are also extensive chemical and dye works, and flour-mills. Trade: in cattle, grain, and manufactured goods. A yearly fair is held for general merchandize. Pop. 26,572. (Madoz.) CARAVAGG1O, a tn. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. Bergamo, 24 m. E. Milan, on the Gera d Adda, between the Adda and Serio. It was surrounded by walls, and defended by a strong castle. These have been recently demolished, but the deep fosse, filled with water, still remains, and six bridges over it give access to the town, which has several churches, an hospital, and a mont-de-piete. In the prin cipal church are some good paintings by Campi ; and near the town is the sanctuary of the Madonna, built, in 1575, from the designs of Pellegrino Tibaldi, picturesquely situated and adorned \\ith some fine paintings. This town is famous for being the birth-place of the two great painters, both called da Caravaggio, Polidoro Caldara, the scholar of Raphael, and Michael Angelo Merigi. The commune is fertile. It produces all kinds of grain in abundance, and is scattered over with mulberry trees. Its melons are large and of excellent quality, and yield a considerable revenue to the peasantry, who cultivate them on their own account, renting ground for the purpose. Pop. 6203. CARAVELLAS, a maritime tn. Brazil, prov. Bahia, on a bay of same name, into which flows the river Caravellas ; lat. 17 42 S. ; Ion. 39 15 W. It is agreeably situate on a rising ground, and three of its streets run parallel to the shore. It has two churches, a Latin and a primary school ; and it exports manioc flour, coffee, and fish ; the former two cultivated extensively in the district. Pop., tn. and dist. 5000. CARBONARA, a tn. Naples, prov. Principato Ultra, 17 m. E.N.E. St. Angelo de Lombard!. p O p. 2886. CARBON NE CARDIGAN CAR BONNE, a tn. France, dep. Haute Garonne, 24 m. j The cloth manufacture has long l)ecn an important branch of S.S.W. Toulouse, agreeably situate 1. bank, Garonne, not far industry ; the wool being spun, dyed, and woven here. The from where it receives the Arize. It has some woollen manu- large fine-woollen cloth manufactories, of which there are seve f -ictures, a fulling-mill, dye-works, brick and tile works. Its ral, give employment to 7000 persons. The cloth is exported trade is in oil and wool. Pop. 1328. chiefly to the Levant, Barbary, and S. America, where it is cs- CARBROOKE, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 3020 ao. Fop. 807. i teemed for its brilliant dyes. There are also distilleries, tannc- CARBURY, par. Irel. Kildare; 4797 ac. Pop. 754. j ries, manufactories of paper, soap, woollen coverlets, stockings, linens, and nails. A good trade is also done in wine, grain, flour, fruits, brandy, leather, and hardware. In the time of Caesar, Carcassonne was a place of considerable note, and held a high rank among the Narbonnese towns. The Visigoths fortified it, and built some of the existing walls and towers. In 1209, , par. Ire] CARCABUEY, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 34 m. S.E. by S. Cordova. It has narrow and irregular streets, a square, which contains the townhouse and prison, a church, store-house, and endowed school. The inhabitants arc occu pied in weaving and husbandry. Some little trade is also done in grain, wine, oil, and cattle. Pop. 3396. (Madoz.) CARCAGENTE, or CARCAXENTE, a tn. Spain, prov. of and 28 m. S. by W. Valencia, in a fertile and beautiful plain r. bank, Jucar. The houses are well built and spacious forming wide and clean streets. The principal square is large, lined with handsome dwellings and shops, and contains a spacious and elegant modern townhouse and prison. There are likewise a parish church, several chapels, two convents, an hospital, almshousc, cemetery, some primary schools, and an extensive palace of the Marquis of Calzada. In the en virons are delightful promenades and gardens. Trade: in grain, fruits, and silk. Pop. 7280. CARCASSONNE, a city, France, cap. dep. Aude, inter sected by the Aude, and on a branch of the Canal du Midi, 53 m. S. Toulouse ; lat. 43 12 55" N. ; Ion. 2 21 9" E. (L.) It consists of two parts, on the opposite sides of the river, which is here crossed by a bridge of 10 arches, the New Town in a plain, 1. bank, and the Old Town on a hill, r. bank. The former is surrounded by double walls, and has a castle. A portion of the inner line of ramparts and towers is attri buted to the Visigoths, and the rest, including the castle, seems to be of the llth or 12th century. The streets are narrow, dirty, and desolate, the houses falling to ruin, and those that are inhabited, tenanted only by the poorest class. It contains the church of St. Lazarus, formerly the cathedral, within which, near the high altar, may be seen the tomb of Simon de Montfort, who led the infamous crusades against the Albigenses, 400 of whom were here burnt alive. The modern town forms & striking contrast to the old city. It is cheer ful, flourishing, and industrious, consisting chiefly of modern houses in streets at right angles with each other, surrounded | town. Ly boulevards occupying the site of the old ramparts. It has several squares planted with trees, and furnished with marble fountains. The modern cathedral and the church of St. Vincent are not remarkable. The other public buildings are the Hotel de la Prefecture, the prison, the halle or market, and the pub lic library, containing 6000 volumes, derived principally from the old convents. This town is the seat of a bishopric, tri bunals of first resort, and commerce, and has a communal college, primary normal school, and theological seminary. t sustained a memorable siege by the army of fanatics who had been sent to extirpate the Albigenses. Want of water compelled the latter to capitulate, when scenes of miserable atrocity followed. Pop. 15,380. CARCELEN, a tn. Spain, Murcia, prov. of, and 24 m. E.N.E. Albacete, at the foot of a hill. The streets are nar row and steep, and the only square contains the townhouse, prison, and a ruined tower. The town also possesses a church, poorhouse, cemetery, and two schools. Manufactures : woollen and linen fabrics, oil, and a little wine. There are marble quarries in the vicinity. An annual fair is held in August. Pop. 2019. CAR-COLSTON, par. Eng. Notts; 1200 ac. Pop. 276- CARCES, a tn. France, dep. Var, agreeably situate at the confluence of the Issole and Argens, 16m. W.S.W.Draguignan It has silk manufactures, tanneries, and distilleries. Pop. 2 101. CARDIFF [Welsh, Caerdydd], a parl. bor. and seaport, S. \Vales. cap. Glamorganshire, 1. bank, Taff, over which there is a handsome bridge of three arches, leading to Swan sea, 3 m. S.E. Llandaff; lat. (custom house) 51 28 36" N. ; Ion. 3 10 W. (R.) The principal streets are well built, paved, and lighted with gas, and contain some good houses and shops : but those parts of the town inhabited by the poorer class have a mean appearance. On the N. side is an ancient castle, in a tower of which Eobert, Duke of Normandy, was confined for 28 years, and had his eyes put out by his brother Henry I. This castle has been modernized by its proprietor, the Marquis of Bute, who converted a part of it into a dwell ing-house. The church of St. John has a lofty and elegant spire, forming a fine feature in the general aspect of the Besides two established churches, there are places of worship belonging to Wesleyans, Baptists, Independ ents, Calvinistic Methodists, and K. Catholics, with an infirmary, free school, and a number of other schools and charities. The other public buildings are a county jail, guildhall, and theatre. The town is governed by a mayor, six aldermen, and 18 councillors ; and, con jointly with Cowbridge and Llantrissent, the borough returns a member to the House of Commons. There arc no manufactures in Cardiff, the inhabitants depending almost exclusively on the shipping, and on the coal and iron-works in the neighbourhood. The accommodation for shipping being formerly deficient, the Marquis of Bute greatly extended it by constructing a canal and two spacious docks. The commerce is steadily on the increase, and is already very considerable. In 1848, there were shipped for exportation: iron, 225,81 J tons ; coals, 659,800 tons; and 121 ,224 tons of iron ore were imported. Besides iron and coals, considerable quantities of tin are exported from Cardiff, also oats, barley, butter, and poultry. The Taff Vale and Aber dare Railway has a station here. Pop. (1840) 10,077. (Local Correspondent.} CARDIGAN, or CARDIGANSHIRE, a maritime co. S.Wales, having N. cos. Merioneth and Montgomery, E. cos. Radnor and Brecknock ; S. Cacrmarthen and Pembroke; and W., Cardigan Bay. Extreme length, N.E. to S.W., about 43 m.; extreme breadth, E. to W., about 20 m. ; area, 432,000 ac. The surface of this county, like that of nearly all the other Welsh counties, is mountainous and barren, with the frequent occurrence of beautiful and fertile valleys. The mountains are, in gen eral, destitute of wood, and present a bleak appearance; some of them attain a considerable height ; the loftiest, Plin- limmon, reaching an elevation of 2463 ft. The soil of tho rlevated parts is chiefly a light loam, intermixed with sand. The valleys of the lower districts have a brown mould, CARDIGAN 601 CARIATI which is extremely favourable to the growth of grass? crops. In other parts, the soil is a stiff argillaceous earth, and very Bterile. Its geological formation is chiefly a hard slate of the transition series. Near the sea coast are some productive tracts, yielding good crops of wheat, barley, turnips, and po tatoes, and in the hilly districts rye is cultivated, but barley and oats are the principal crop. The science of agriculture has made little progress here, and does not seem to be im proving. Dairy husbandry, however, is well attended to. The breed of cattle, horses, and sheep, is small, but the latter is of superior quality, and all are hardy. Pigs and poultry are reared in considerable quantity, and eggs abundant. The mineral productions are silver, lead, and copper; great quan tities of these metals were obtained here during the 1.7th cen tury, but the mines have since much declined in value, and many of them, particularly those of copper, have been alto gether abandoned. Slates are still quarried, but they are of an inferior quality. There being no coal in the county, turf is the universal fuel. There are no manufactures, unless it be the weaving of small quantities of flannel and coarse woollen stuffs. Gloves also are made in the neighbourhood of Aberyst" with and Tregaron, which, with Lampeter and Cardigan, are its chief towns, the last being the county town. The county sends one member to the House of Commons; registered electors (1850) 2294. Exports: oats, butter, and slates ; im ports: culm, limestone, and deals. Pop. (1851), 70,796. CARDIGAN, a seaport tn. and parl. bor., Wales, cap. of Cardiganshire, on an eminence on the r. bank of the Teify, here crossed by an ancient stone bridge of seven arches, between 4 and 5 m. from its embouchure in St. George s Channel, 200 m. W.N.W. London. The town consists of two princi pal streets, with a number of narrow irregular lanes and alleys, formed by mean-looking houses. The church, upwards of 200 years old, is a venerable structure, with windows in the florid pointed style. The townhall and county jail are also handsome buildings. Its ancient castle, the ruins of which occupy a low cliff at the foot of the bridge, is famous in Welsh story ; two circular bastions are now all that remains of it. There are places of worship here for various dissenters, a free grammar school, two or three charity schools, and several schools of other descriptions. The harbour is obstructed by a bar, which renders the entrance dangerous in rough weather, and, consequently, seriously affects the trade of the port, which, however, in coasting, is still considerable, though in foreign very trifling. In spring-tides, vessels of 300 to 400 tons can come up to the town, but the general trade is con fined to vessels of from 15 to 100 tons. Upwards of 10,000 tons of shipping, employing above 1000 seamen, belong to the port. Cardigan, conjointly with Aberyst with, Lampeter, and Adpar, returns one member to the House of Commons. Pop. (1841) 2925; (1851), 3012. CARDINGTON, two pars. Eug. 1, Bedford; 5050 ac. Pop. 1466. 2, Salop. ; 6500 ac. Pop. 691. CARDINHAM, par. Eng. Cornwall ; 8550 ac. P. 802. CARDIOTISSA, a small isl. Grecian Archipelago, be longing to kingdom of Greece, about half way between Sikyrio and Polycandro; lat. 36 38 N.; Ion. 25 E. It has a few inhabitants, and a chapel dedicated to the Virgin. CARDISTON, par. Eng. Salop ; 1980 ac. Pop. 372. CARDITO, a vil. Naples, 6 m. N. the city of Naples. Silk-worms are extensively reared in the vicinity. Pop. 2730. CARDIVA, or KARETIVOE. 1, An isl. Indian Ocean, Gulf of Manaar, N. W. coast Ceylon, S. end, in about lat. 8 26 N. It is about 10m. long and 1 broad, and is mostly low, with sandy patches in some parts, and bushes or trees in others. 2, An isl. Indian Ocean, one of the Maldives; lat. 4 58 N. ; Ion. 73 26 E. (R.) It is nearly 2 m. long, a little more than m. broad, and is covered with high cocoa-nut trees. This island gives its name to the channel in which it lies. CARDONA, a tn. Spain, Catalonia, prov. of, and 45 m. N.W. Barcelona, r. bank, Gardener, here crossed by a bridge. It stands on a declivity, is surrounded by walls entered by six gates, and is commanded by a strong castle crowning the sum mit of an adjacent hill. Its streets, with the exception of two, are steep, but, in general, well paved and clean. There are two squares, both planted with trees, and one of them con taining the large, handsome, and ancient parish church ; there are also several chapels, a town-house, prison, hospital, small VOL. T. theatre, cemetery, two convents, and a variety of schools. Manufactures: linen, woollen, and hempen fabrics, and paper, wine, and oil. Trade: grain, fruits, cattle, and salt. About 1 m. from the town is the remarkable mass of salt loticed in the article BARCELONA. Pop. 2366. CARDROSS, a par. Scotland, co. Dumbarton, r. bank, Clyde, remarkable only as having been the closing scene of the illustrious career of the victor of Bannockburn and the re storer of the Scottish monarchy, Robert Bruce. About 1 m. from Dumbarton, on the road to the village or hamlet of Car- dross, that monarch built a castle, forming the surrounding lands into a park. Here he sought relaxation in the chase, and here he died, June 7, 1329, his remains being carried to Dunfermline, where they were interred. No vestige of the castle now remains, but the eminence on which it stood retains the name of the Castle-hill. Pop. 4416. CAREBY, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 1590 ac. Pop. 73. CARENAGE (THE), or PORT CASTRIES, a tn. and port, W. Indies, isl. St. Lucia. It is the capital of the island, stands at the head of a deep irregularly formed harbour, surrounded by hills, on the N.W. coast; lat. 14N.; Ion. 61 1 W. (R.) The PORT has deep water, with good anchorage, and shelter from all winds. lied mullet, and various other sorts of fish, may be caught here in abundance by hook and line. CARENTAN [anc. Carentonum Unellorum], a maritime tn. France, dep. Manche, 14 m. N.N.W. St. L6, in the midst of unhealthy marshes, 1. bank, Taute; lat. 49 18 24" N. ; Ion. 1 14 30" W. (R.) It is built with tolerable regularity, but the houses, in general, are indifferent. It has a castle and fortifications ; contains a handsome church, surmounted by a spire ; manufactures some lace and cotton goods ; and has a trade in cattle, horses, hemp, flax, cider, butter, and honey. Small coasting vessels come up to the town. Pop. 2559. CARESTON, par. Scot. Forfar ; 3 m. by 1 m. Pop. 218. CARGILL, par. Scot. Perth ; 6 m. by 4 m. Pop. 1642. CARGIN, par. Irel., Galway ; 3609 ac. Pop. 1369. CARHAIX [anc. Caretum], a tn. France, dep. Finistere, on the Illiers, 44 m. E. by S. Brest. It stands on a high hill, and forms the central point of Finistere. Six main roads, leading to Brest, Quimper, Chateaulin, Vannes, St. Brieuc, and Morlaix, meet here. The parish church is said to date from the 6th century ; and the town abounds in old houses, with projecting cornices and carved timber work. There are some tanneries and paper works. Hats, linen, and drapery, are also manufactured. Pop. 1827. CARH AM, par.Eng. Northumberland; 11, 470 ac. P. 1282. CARHAMPTON, par. Eng. Somerset ; 6460 ac. P. 682. CARHUAMAYO, a tn. Peru, 16 m. S. Pasco; lat. 11 5 S. ; Ion. 75 45 W. ; a little E. of Lake Chinchayco- cha, and 13,087 ft. above the level of the sea. CARIACO, or SAN FELIPE DE AUSTRIA, a seaport tn. Venezuela, prov. of, and 40 m. E. by N. Cumana, at the head of the gulf, and near the mouth of river of same name, on an extensive fertile plain, covered with plantations ; lat. 10 30 N. ; Ion. 63 40 W. The climate is hot and unhealthy. Cotton, cacao, coffee, and sugar, are raised, the first of which is of excellent quality. Intermittent fevers prevail. A good deal of English rum used to be smuggled in here. Pop. 7000. The GULF, near the mouth of which lies Cumana, is about 38 m. long by 5 to 10 m. broad, lying nearly E. to W. There is good anchorage in all parts of it, the deepest water being 40 fathoms. On either side the land presents an amphi theatre adorned with the most beautiful and varied vegeta tion. Near the entrance are some mud banks, frequented by innumerable sea fowl. CARIACO, or CARRIACO, one of the Windward Islands, Grenadine group, between St. Vincent and Grenada, 40 m. S. the former, and 20 N. the latter; lat. 12 30 N. ; Ion. 62? 30 W. It is the largest of the Grenadines, being about 21 m. in circumference, but of irregular form. It has two bays on its N. side, and contains a town named Hillsborough. CARIATI [anc. Paternum], a seaport tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Citra, 16 m. S.E. Rossano, on a high promontory washed by the Ionian Sea. It is surrounded by ruinous walls, and has a dilapidated castle. It is the seat of a bishopric, and contains a cathedral, four other churches, a diocesan seminary, and a house of refuge. Silk worms are extensively reared, and the best manna of Calabria is produced in the vici nity. The coasts abound with fish. Pop. 2144. 7S CARIBBEAN SEA CARLEE CARIBBEAN, or CARRIBBEAN SEA, that portion of the N. Atlantic Oce.au, lying between the Caribbee, or Leeward and Windward Islands on the E., Guatimala on the W., the islands of Hayti or St. Domingo and Cuba on the N., and New Granada and Venezuela on the S. It communicates with the Gulf of Mexico by a passage of about 120 in. in width, between Cape Catoche in Yucatan, and Cape St. An- tonia, the most W. point of Cuba. Its S. shores are generally high and rocky, and contain some gulfs of considerable extent. Being but little encumbered with rocks or islands, its naviga tion is, for the most part, clear and open. CAR1BEES, or LESSER ANTILLES, usually divided into tlie Windward and Leeward Islands ; a section of the West India Islands (which see). CARIFE, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Principato Ultra, 10 in. S.S.E. Ariano. It contains a collegiate church, high school, convent, hospital, and alms-house. Pop. 2558. CARIGNAXO [anc. Cariniacum], atn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 11 m. S. Turin, 1. bank, Po, here crossed by a wooden bridge. It is surrounded by old walls, and has a handsome square ornamented with arcades, a fine church, four convents, a college, two hospitals, some silk spinning-mills, and a sugar refinery. Preserved lemon peal, of excellent quality, is prepared here. From this town is named a branch of the house of Savoy. In 1544, the French dismantled the fortifications, but spared the castle. Silk is produced to a large extent in the vicinity. Pop. 8000. CARIMATA, or KRAMATA. 1, An uninhabited isl. In dian Archipelago, off S.W. coast Borneo ; lat. 1" 37 S. ; Ion. 108 51 E. (R.) ; about 12 m. long. It is lofty, one of its peaks being 2986 ft. high, well wooded, and was formerly a great resort of pirates. 2, Carimata, or Billiton Passage, the passage bounded E. by Carimata and the islands adjacent to the S.W. part of Borneo, and W. by Billiton. It is also called the Outer Channel, and is taken by ships from the Malacca Strait, bound by the E. passage to China or the Moluccas after October, when the N. W. monsoon prevails S. of the equator. 3, Cari mata Sea, a name at times given to that part of the China Sea lying between Borneo, Cambodia, and the Malacca peninsula, CARIMON JAVA, a small isl. Indian Archipelago, 20 m. in circumference ; lat. 5 50 S. ; Ion. 110 34 E. It is high and woody, with an elevated hill in the centre. Adjoin ing it are several small islands, some of which abound with deer, and among which ships may anchor in 20 to 24 fathoms, and obtain wood and water. The Dutch formerly had an es tablishment on the island, to prevent piracy. CARIMONS, two isls. Strait of Malacca, called Little Carimon and Great Carimon; lat. 1 8 N. ; Ion. 103 30 E. Little Carimon is about 2 m. long by 1 broad. It is high and rocky, peaked in the centre, and covered with trees. Great Carimon, separated from the S.W. side of Little Cari mon by a narrow passage, is about 9 m. long. Near its N. end are two lofty peaks, but, with exception of these, it con sists of low level land. Off its N.E. point vessels can anchor in G to 8 fathoms. It is occasionally frequented by Malay and Buggis proas. CARINENA, a tn. Spain, Aragon, prov. of, and 30 in. S.S.W. Saragossa, on the high road from that city to Daroca. It has several squares, a townhouse, church, chapel, prison, hospital, cemetery, and three primary schools. Some little trade is done in cattle, grain, fruits, and oil. Pop. 1995. CARINHENHA,atn. Brazil, prov. Bahia, on the frontier of prov. Minas Geraes, at the junction of the river of same name with the Kio San Francisco. It has a church and an extensive district. Pop. 2000. The RIVER Carinhenha rises in prov. Gozaz, in the serra Tabatinga, flows E., forming the boundary line between provs. Bahia and Minas Geraes, and falls into the Rio San Francisco; lat. 14 30 S. ; Ion. 44 42 W. Total course about 1GO in., exclusive of windings. CARIN1, a tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 11 m. W.N.W. Pa lermo, beautifully situated on river of same name, near its embouchure. It has a Gothic castle, with several churches and convents. Near it are the ruins of the ancient Eyccara. Fishing is the chief employment. Pop. 7000. CARINOLA, a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, 19 m. W.N.W. Caserto, at the foot of Mount Callicola, in an un healthy district. It was formerly an Episcopal town, and has a handsome cathedral, a parish church, an extensive seminary, and a Franciscan convent. The surrounding district pro duces wine of good quality. The town is said to occupy tho site of the Foro Claudia, built by the Lombards in 1058. Pop. 6420. CARINTHIA [German, Karnthen], a duchy, Austria, kingdom Illyria, between lat. 46 24 and 47 7 N., and Ion. 1 2 35 and 15 10 E., bounded, N. by Salzburg and Styria, E. by Styria, S. by Carniola, and W. by Italy and Tyrol. Area, 30 1 5 geo. sq. in. It is extremely mountainous, generally sterile, and one of the most thinly populated provinces of Austria. The arable land does not exceed 290,000 acres, but there are some fertile valleys, and a considerable extent of rich pasture land. It has several rivers and lakes. Of the for mer, the principal is the Drave, and of the latter the Kla- genfurtcr or Worth See, the Ossiacher See, and the Millstat- ter See. All of them abound with fish. The country does not yield corn enough for the consumption of the inhabitants, who import the deficiency from Hungary. The grains most extensively cultivated are rye and oats. Some wine is pro duced in Lower Carinthia, but it is of inferior quality. Horned cattle, sheep, and horses, are raised in considerable numbers, but the mines of Carinthia are the main sources of its wealth. The chief of these are iron, lead, and calamine. Various kinds of precious stones are met with. Its operative industry is chiefly confined to the working its metallic ores, though there are several manufactories of woollens, cottons, silk stuffs, &c., most of which are in Klagenfurt. Carinthia formed part of the empire of Charlemagne, and afterwards belonged to the Dukes of Friuli. It subsequently passed through various hands, and finally became an append age of the Austrian crown in 1321. In 1809, it was annexed to the empire of Napoleon, but was restored to Austria in 1814. In the year after, it was formed into the circles of Kla genfurt and Villach. It has its own diet, composed of four estates the dignitaries of the church, the aristocracy, tho equestrian order, and the representatives of towns and places with markets but its internal administration is subordinate to the Government authorities of Laibach. The principal towns are Klagenfurt, the capital, and seat of the criminal and other judicial courts, and Villach. The inhabitants are represented as indolent and superstitious, and mostly R. Catholics. Pop. 454,785. CAR1PE, or CARIBE, a tn. Venezuela, prov. of, and 40 m. S.E. Cumana, in a fertile valley of same name. In the valley is a cavern, the opening into which is 85 ft. broad, and 77 ft. high, which dimensions it preserves to the distance of 1548 ft. inwards. Pop., tn. and valley, about 5000. CARISBROOKE, a vil. and par. England, co. Hants. The VILLAGE is pleasantly situated at the foot of a hill near the centre of the Isle of Wight, l m. S.W. Newport. It was formerly a place of considerable importance, having been a market town and the capital of the island till superseded by Newport. The parish church is a fine ancient structure, with a tower containing a peal of eight musical bells ; and there are, besides, places of worship belonging to Independents, Methodists, and other dissenting bodies. The inhabitants are principally employed in agriculture. Carisbrooke owed its former importance to its proximity to the castle of the same name, on the top of a considerable eminence overlook ing the village, and now a heap of ruins. It is of high anti quity, and is supposed to have been a fortress anterior to the Roman invasion. The latest additions are said to have been made to it in the time of Elizabeth. Here Charles I. was confined for 13 months previously to his trial and execution. The castle and grounds occupy a space of about 20 ac. The exterior forms a pleasant promenade of more than 1 m. in ex tent. Besides objects of historical interest and curiosity, the castle contains the official residence of the governor of the island, a respectable mansion, with two spacious ball-rooms. A short distance N.E. of Carisbrooke is a neat row of houses, called the New Village. Area of par. 88SO ac. Pop. 5013. CARLBY, par. Eng. Lincoln; 1020 ac. Pop. 21(5. CARLEE, or CARLI, a small vil. Hindoostan, prov. Au- rungabad, 50 in. S.E. Bombay, near which are some remark able cave temples. The interior of the principal cave is 126 ft. long and 46 broad, and is supported by 21 columns, the capitals of which are of singular and beautiful workmanship, ! each consisting of a large cap resembling a bell, finely carved, and surmounted by two elephants, with their trunks enter- twined, and each carrying two male and one female figure. CAELENTINI CARLISLE On several of the columns are inscriptions, from one of which of the modern houses are handsome, and, being built on a it would seem that this temple was built A.D. 176. It is | plan, are gradually imparting an appearance of uniformity to semicircular at its termination, and is supposed to have been the city. The cathedral, which is situate on elevated ground, the work of Buddhists. near the centre of the town, is one of the principal objects of CARLENTINI, a tn. Sicily, Val-di-Noto, 20 m. N.W. interest. It is of Saxon origin, but has received many addi- Syracuse ; built by Charles V. for the head quarters of the tions and embellishments throughout successive generations ; Sicilian army, and destroyed by the earthquake of 1693. It some parts of the building are beautiful, and the whole has a a place of little importance. Pop. 2502. CARLET, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 18 m. S.W. by S. Valencia, r. bank, Magio. The streets are clean, wide, and lined with regularly and well-built houses. The town has six squares, a parish church, two chapels, a convent, spacious townhouse, prison, cemetery, and two schools. Manufactures : soap, brandy, oil, and wine, which with grain, salt-fish, fruits, and cattle, constitute the sole traffic of the place. Pop. 3884. CARLETON, several places, England:!, Carleton, St. Peter, par. Norfolk ; 930 ac. Pop. 96. 2, Carleton Fore- Hoc, par. Norfolk ; 700 ac. Pop. 151. 3, A township and vil. W. Riding, York. The VILLAGE is situate on a gentle eminence 2 m. S.W. Skipton, consists of four streets, straight, and kept in good condition ; greater part of the houses well built of stone, and slated. Its church small Norman structure, and it has several free schools and other charities. The inhabitants are principally employed in the cotton manu facture. Pop. of the township, 1242. CARL1 IS GFORD, a seaport tn. and par. Ireland,co. Louth. The TOWN is beautifully situate S.W. side of Carlingford Lough or Bay, at the base of an extensive range of mountains, which terminates at this point, 9 m. E.N.E. Dundalk. It has rather a poor and desolate appearance. The lough is about 10 m. long inland, and about 2 broad. Near the mouth is a bar with only 9 ft. water at low tides, but on which the tide rises 18 ft. Once inside the bar, the lough may be navigated for 6 m. by vessels of the largest size at all times ; at high tide, vessels of 18 ft. draught may proceed 2 m. farther to Warren Point, and by those drawing 14 ft. to 4 m. farther, to Fath- am, where is the entrance of the canal, which has a depth of 11 ft. to the town of Newry. On Block-House Island, at the entrance to the bay, is a fixed light, 101 ft. high; lat. 54 1 12" N. ; Ion. 6 4 45" W. The bay being well stocked with oysters, dredging for them constitutes the chief occupa tion of the inhabitants. The only trade of Carlingford con sists in exporting a little corn and provisions to Dublin. Pop. 1110. Area of par., 20,050 ac. Pop. 12,588. CARLISLE, an anc. city and inland port, England, co. Cumberland, 262 m anc. city . N.N.W. London, about 8 m. from the Scottish border, pleasantly situate on a gentle eminence, at the confluence of the Eden, Caldew, and Pcteril, the first ENTRANCE TO OAHI.1SLU CA&XLB. Fiom a i>nnvin|( by W. J. l!lackl<x-k. here crossed by a handsome stone bridge of five large, and the same number of smaller arches ; the Caldew is crossed by two bridges, and the Peteril by one. The town is somewhat irreg ularly built, but its principal streets are spacious, well-paved, well-lighted ; and it is amply supplied with water. A number venerable and imposing appearance; the E. window, which is 48 ft. high, by 30 broad, and partially filled with painted glass, is one of the finest specimens of the kind in England. In the N. aisle are interred the remains of the celebrated Dr. Paley. The castle, another object of interest from its historical asso ciations, is situate on a slight eminence overlooking the Eden, at the N.W. angle of the city; it commands a fine view, and is still maintained as a garrison-fortress, being the- only remnant of the ancient military character of the city, the old walls and bulwarks having now almost entirely disap peared. Amongst the literary and educational institutions of Carlisle are an academy for the encouragement of the fiua arts, a literary and philosophical institution, with a museum and theatre for lectures, a grammar school, several national and Sunday schools, two subscription libraries, and two news rooms ; likewise three reading rooms, with libraries attached, for the use of the working classes. Its church accommoda tion, besides the cathedral, consists of the parish churches of St. Mary and St. Cuthbert, with their chapels of ease, Trinity church and Christ church, and 12 places of worship for various religious denominations. It is the seat of a bishopric, founded by Henry I., and exercises ecclesiastical jurisdiction over 93 parishes. The dignitaries, besides the bishop, are a dean, four prebendaries, and eight minor canons. The chari table institutions are numerous, and well supported, and in clude a commodious infirmary, fever hospital, and dispensary. The buildings appropriated to corporate purposes are the townhall, guildhall, and council-chamber. The courts of justice, where the assizes are held, and the county jail, are situate at the S. entrance of the city, and were erected after a design by R. Smirke, R. A., at a cost exceeding 100,000. In the area, in i ront of the courts, a fine marble statue of the late Earl of Lonsdale, by M. L. Watson, is erected Many of the public edifices are exceedingly handsome. Carlisle is the seat of various, and of some extensive, manufactures, of which cotton is the principal, embracing the weaving of cheeks and ginghams, calico-printing, and the manufacture of cotton twist. The making of hats is also carried on to a large extent. Carlisle has long been famed for its manufacture of whips and fish-hooks ; there are, besides, a woollen manufac tory, several dyeworks, tanneries, iron-foundries, breweries, marble-works, and an extensive biscuit manu factory, which employs upwards of 200 hands. It has a considerable coasting trade, by means of its canal, which extends from the town to Bowness, on the Solway Firth, a distance of about 1 1 m., and is navigable for vessels of from 80 to 100 tons burthen. The gross amount of customs duty received at the port for 1845 j ^ was 33,235, being an increase of nearly 4000 on the preceding year; in 1848, the receipts |w. had increased to 48,962 ; and in 1849, they were 41,071. The station of the Lancaster and Carlisle Railway Company (in connection -*""-_ with the London and North Western) is situ- , ate near the courts, and is a handsome, orna mental building, with a portico supported by a range of pillars, and is likewise jointly occu pied by the Caledonian, Glasgow, Dumfries, and South Western, Maryport, Carlisle, and Whitehaven Junction Railway Companies. The Newcastle Railway Station is in London Road. Carlisle was originally a Roman station, and then called Luguvallum, albreviated by tho Saxons to Luel, to which v.as put the prefix Caer, or city, thus making Caerluel, whenco Carlisle. It was destroyed by the Danes in the 9th century, and subsequently restored by William Rufus, who built its castle. From this period it was a frequent object of attack in the long -protracted wars between England and Scotland, and suffered severely on irany of these occasions. CARLISLE 604 CARLSBAD Having declared for Charles I., it was subjected to severe privations during the civil wars of that period also. In 1745, it surrendered to Prince Charles, but was retaken by the Duke of Cumberland, when a number of the officers who formed the garrison were executed as traitors, and their Leads exposed on the gates and walls of the city. It gives the title of Earl to a branch of the Howard family. Returns two members to Parliament: constituency (1851), 1050. Pop. (1770), when taken by the late Dr. Heysham, 7677 ; (1841), 23,012 ; (1851), 26,583. CARLISLE, a tn. U. States, Pennsylvania, cap. co. Cumberland, 15 m. W. by S. Harrisburg, neatly and regu larly built, chiefly with brick or stone, and has a college, with a library containing 11,000 vols., nine churches, a courthouse, and county offices, a market-house, a bank, young ladies semi nary, an academy, and 16 schools. The Cumberland Valley railroad, from Harrisburg to Chambersburg, passes through it. Half a mile from the town are the U. States barracks, built in 1777, capable of holding 2000 men, and provided with a cavalry school. It has six tanneries, three distilleries, three printing offices, two breweries, and carries on a con siderable trade. Pop. 4351. CARLISLE (NEW), a maritime vil., Lower Canada, Gaspe* district, N. side Bay of Chalcur. It is regularly laid out, and carries on the fishing. CARLO, a small isl., Russia, Gulf of Bothina, 18 m. W. Uleaborg, in Finland ; lat. (W. point beacon) 65 2 N. ; Ion. 24 33 E. (R.) CARLOBAGO, or CARLOPAOO, a tn. Austria, Croatia, circle, Thither Save, on the E. of the strait which separates the island of Pago from the mainland. It is fortified, and contains a R. Catholic parish church, and a cloister. Pop. 960. CARLOFORTE, a tn. Sardinian States, isl. San Pietro, near the S.W. coast of isl. Sardinia. It is defended by walls, and the port is commanded by a castle, on a neighbouring height. There are extensive saltworks in the vicinity, and the coral and anchovy fishery are carried on by the inhabit ants. Pop. 2500. CARLOS (SAx) : 1, A to. Venezuela, prov. Carobobo, 130 m. S.W. Caracas, on the Aguine. It is large, handsome, and well laid out, and, before the wars of independence, was one of the most opulent cities of the Captain-generalship of the Caracas. The surrounding savannahs have large planta tions of indigo, coffee and cotton ; and rear vast numbers of oxen, horses, and mules. Pop. 5000. 2, A tn. Chili, cap. prov. and on the N.E. coast of isl. Chiloe. It is fortified, has an excellent harbour, and is the principal entrepot of the island, exporting planks, hams, and woollen stuffs. 3, A port, N.W. coast, E. Falkland Island, near the N. entrance to Falkland Sound, with anchorage for large vessels, and where fuel and water may be obtained ; lat. (Fanning Head, S.W. summit) 51 27 12" S.; Ion. 59 7 15" W. A river of same name flows in at the head of the sea-arm forming the port. CARLOS (SAN), a tn. Spain. See CARRACA. CARLOTA, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 17 m. S.W. from Cor.lova. The principal streets are lined with trees, and the houses, many of which are detached, are, in general, tolerably well built. The town has two squares, an old palace, now serving the double purpose of townhouse and theatre ; a parish church, three chapels, three schools, a pri son, barracks, and cemetery, five distilleries, four soap-works, seven oil-mills, and a number of wine-presses. A small trade is done in cattle and grain. Pop. 3252. CARLO W, an inland co. Ireland, prov. Leinster, having W. and S.W. co. Kilkenny, N. Queen s co., Kildare, and Wick- low, and E., and S.E. cos. Wicklow and Wexford ; extreme length, N. to S., 29 m.; extreme breadth, at the N. end, about 16 m. ; at the S. extremity it terminates in a point, gradually diminishing from 5 m. to less than a quarter of a mile. Area, 221,342 ac.; of which 84,059 are arable, 31,249 uncultivated, and 4927 plantations, 505 under water. The surface gener ally consists of gentle undulations, excepting in the S., where it rises into a mountainous ridge, whose highest summit is 2604 ft. above the sea. Although this part of the county presents a sufficiently cheerless and barren aspect, there are others in which are numerous broad and fertile valleys, and where the hills are cultivated to their summits. Dairy husbandry is carried to a greater extent in this county than perhaps in any other in Ireland. The principal produce is butter, of a superior quality ; very little cheese being made, and that only for domestic consumption. Wheat, barley, oats, turnips, and potatoes are successfully cultivated, and are tho principal crops, but flax, hemp, rape, vetches, &c., are also grown, though to a limited extent. Agriculture is in a com paratively advanced state here, being much more so than in any of the adjoining counties, while the implements employed are of the most approved kind ; and the staple trade is in agricultural and dairy produce, of which large quantities are exported. Carlow is divided into seven baronies Carlow, Forth, Idrone, E. and W. Rathvilly, and St. Mullin s, Lower and Upper ; contains 47 parishes, and sends three members to the House of Commons two for the county, and one for the borough of Carlow. Pop. (1841), 68.075. CARLO W, a parl. bor. and cap. of above co., pleasantly situate on 1. bank, Barrow, 34 m. S.W. Dublin, with which it is connected by a railway. It has a neat and cleanly ap pearance, and has upwards of 14 respectable streets, of which the two principal intersect each other at right angles, and it is increasing in size. A bridge of four arches leads over the Barrow to the suburban village of Graigue, in Queen s County. The principal public buildings are the parish church, an old edifice, with a handsome modern spire ; the R. Catholic cathe dral church, an elegant structure ; and the R. Catholic college, a plain, but spacious building. There are also barracks, a lunatic asylum, a handsome courthouse, a jail, and an infir mary, with numerous charity schools and charitable institu tions. Carlow is the principal mart for the agricultural pro duce of the surrounding country, and carries on an extensive trade in corn, flour, and butter, having communication by the Barrow with the ports of Ross and Waterford, and with Dublin, both by a canal and by railway. There are in tho town some extensive flour-mills, a large malting establish ment, two breweries, and a distillery. It sends one member to the House of Commons. On a rising ground on the S. side of the town, where a small stream, called the Burren, falls into the Barrow, stand the ruins of the ancient castle of Carlow, formerly a place of great strength, and still presenting a very imposing appearance. Pop. of tn. (1841), 8734; of bor. 10,409. CARLOWITZ, or KARLOWITZ, a tn. Austria, Sclavonia, circle of, and 7 m. S.E. Peterwardeiu, r. bank, Danube, well built, but much scattered, stretching along the banks of tho river like a large village, rather than a town. The best part is that which joins the archiepiscopal palace. It contains one Greek cathedral, two other Greek churches, a R. Catholic church, a gymnasium, a Greek theological seminary, and lyceum, a German upper school, a national school, and an hos pital. It is the seat of the Greek Metropolitan Archbishop, the head of the church of the dissenting Greeks in the Austrian dominions. The palace of the archbishop contains a valuable library. Carlowitz is a free community, and is governed by civil magistrates, consisting of an equal number of R. Catholiu and Greek members. Though within the military frontier, yet its inhabitants are exempted from duty, that they may devote themselves to trade and manufactures. An excellent wine is produced on the hilly district between Camenitz and Carlowitz. Sturgeon is caught in great quantities in the Danube, close by the town. Peace was concluded here be tween Austria and the Turks in 1699 ; and here, too, Prince Eugene defeated the latter in 1716. Carlowitz is a station for the steam-boats navigating the Danube. Pop. 5600. CARLSBAD, or KARLSBAD, a tn. Bohemia, circle, Ell- bogen, 70 m. W.N.W. Prague, in a romantic narrow valley, on the small river Tepl, near its junction with the Eger. Some of the houses are built, tier above tier, in recesses cut out of the rocky and precipitous sides of the valley. The Tepl is crossed by six bridges, some of them mere pathways; and along its banks are the two most spacious streets. A monument of Charles IV., which stands in the market-place, the high church, an hospital, and a granite bridge of one arch across the Tepl, are the only objects in the town worth noticing. Carlsbad is the most celebrated watering-place in Germany, and its springs the hottest in Europe. They were known in the seventh cen tury; but were lost sight of till 1347, when, according to a tradition of the country, they were rediscovered by Charles IV., whose attention was drawn to the spot, while hunting, by the cries of one of his hounds that had fallen into a hot spring when pursuing a stag. He subsequently established regular baths here, to which he gave his name, and bestowed CARLSBURG 605 CARLSRUHE on the borough certain rights and privileges, which it still retains. Carlsbad is believed to stand over an immense sub terranean reservoir of boiling water, the depth and extent of which is unknown, although several attempts have been made to ascertain these points. Holes are bored in the ground in different parts of the town to allow the ascending vapours to escape, as, without such precaution, serious explosions would occur. These holes must be cleared out every three months, as they are continually filling up with encrustations of lime deposited by the waters. Substances immersed in the Sprudel Spring get coated with this lime, which is so hard that it admits of being polished. This spring is covered with a solid mass of masonry, to prevent accidents from the expansive force of the steam below, which forces up the water in jets of 2 and 3 ft. high. Its temperature is from 165 to 168 Fah. The Hygeia Spring has the same degree of heat. The other springs are the Bernherds, 145 to 157; the Neubrunnen 144; the Michlbrunnen, 133; the Marketbrunnen, 135; the Theresienbrunnen, 131; the Schlossbrunnen, which dis appeared in 1809, and reappeared in 1823, 121; the Spital- well, 135; and the Felsenbrunnen, used for shower-baths, 97 Fah. It has been calculated that the whole of the springs yield 1 ,925,180 gallons of water per day, of which the Sprudel and Hygeia alone supply 1,669,300 gallons. The principal chemical ingredients of the two latter springs are carbonate of soda, sulphate of soda (Glauber salts), chlorine, and sodium. They are chiefly efficacious in the removal of complaints of the liver, kidneys, &c. A salt, known by the name of Sal Caro- liniense, is produced from the waters of these springs by eva poration. There are here some thriving manufactories of articles in steel and brass, of needles, and lacquered ware; and around the town a number of pleasant walks, and some elevated points, from which extensive views are obtained. Carlsbad was the favourite residence of Goethe, Hoffman, and Werner. The permanent population is about 3000, to which about 4000 strangers are added in the summer season. CARLSBURG, or KARLSBURG, a fortified tn., Austria, Transylvania, co. Weissenberg, r. bank, Maros, 33 m. N.W. Hermanstadt ; lat. 40 50" N. ; Ion. 23 34 29" E. (L.) It consists of an upper and lower town, the former built on a hill, and the latter in a valley. A bridge, 210 paces in length, crosses the Maros from the lower town. The citadel, built by Charles IV., is surrounded by a wall with seven bastions. The prin cipal gate is finely sculptured. The town contains two R. Cath olic churches, one of them the cathedral church of the bishop of Transylvania, possessing a number of ancient monuments; a Lutheran church, two synagogues, two monasteries, the residence of the bishop of Transylvania, a canon s college, containing the archives of the province; the royal mint, where the gold and silver obtained from the mines of Transylvania is purified and coined ; the observatory, in which is a good collection of instruments ; and an excellent library, an arsenal, barracks, &c. There are also a theological college, a R. Cath olic gymnasium, a normal school, and an hospital. The manufactures of the place are insignificant, with exception of saltpetre, which is considerable. The Jews here enjoy, under the special protection of the bishop, a perfect equality of civil rights with the other citizens, a privilege denied them in every other part of Transylvania. Half a mile from Carlsburg, on the Maros, is the Maros Porto, the chief shipping place for the Transylvanian rock-salt. Carlsburg occupies the site of the ancient Apulum. Several Roman antiquities have been found in it. Pop. 12,300. CARLSCRONA, or KARLSCKONA [Charles s crown], a seaport tn., Sweden, cap. Ian or co. of same name, on the rugged isl. Trottsb, and some smaller isolated rocks, but con nected with the contiguous mainland by several long bridges ; lat. 56 9 42" N. ; Ion. 15 35 30" E. (R.) It is well built, and has uncommonly broad, though sometimes hilly, streets, three churches, a townhall, freemasons house, and school- house ; but it suffers from want of good water for domestic use, which has to be brought from Syckeby, distant about 3 m. The trade has much fallen off, though sugar refining, and the manufacture of tobacco, are still carried on. The harbour, in which the Swedish navy is stationed, is one of the best in Europe ; it has three entrances, of which only one is suitable for the larger war vessels ; and there are two docks, the old and the new ; a royiil shipbuilding yard, ar tillery park, arsenal, anchor forge, and a -model room, con taining models of various kinds of vessels, several of which were prepared by the hand of the well-known Chapman, of whom there is here a marble bust. The entrance to the har bour is defended by the two forts Drottningskar and Kongs- holm. The town was made the Swedish marine station and arsenal by Charles XL, in 1680; it thenceforth took his name. The admiralty offices, however, are still located at Stockholm. Pop. 12,456. The LAN, or COUNTY, also called Bleldnge, is the smallest in Sweden; area, 1193 sq. m. It is bounded, N. by Wexio and Kalmar, W. by Christian- stad, and E. and S. by the Baltic. It is hilly, but not mountainous, gneiss and granite are the prevailing forma tions ; between the hills are fertile valleys, and a strip of low land runs along the coast. In some parts the soil is sandy, in others clayey ; but, generally, it is fertile, yielding potatoes and rye plentifully. Oats, pease, and wheat are also culti vated ; and, in some localities, buckwheat. Cattle are reared to some extent ; and garden culture is attended to by the pea sants. Wood is still plentiful, consisting chiefly of oak, beech, fir, and birch ; and the fisheries afford a considerable amount of employment. Several islands belong to the Ian, and some of them are thickly wooded. Pop. 77,659. CARLSHAMN [Charles s haven] , a seaport tn., Sweden, Ian of, and 27 m. W. Carlscrona, at the mouth of the Mie-A ; lat. 56 10 18" N.; Ion. ]4 52 E. (R.) It lies at the end of a beautiful valley, is prettily and regularly built, and its square market-place, planted on all sides with trees, has a fine ap pearance. It has two churches, an elegant townhouse, a good harbour, and an active trade. Wood, of various kinds, with oak and beech staves, constitute the chief exports. The manufactures are: sail-cloth, sacking, hats, tobacco, leather; and there are dyeworks, soap boileries, and a shipbuilding yard. Pop. 4408. CARLSHOFF, an isl. N. Pacific; lat. 15 40 N.; Ion. 145 38 W. (R.) It is about 8 m. in circumference, has a lake in the centre, and was discovered by Roggewein, the Dutch navigator, in 1728. CARLSRUHE, or KARLSRUHE [Charles s rest], a city, cap. grand duchy of Baden, on a fine plain, 4 m. E. 1. bank, Rhine; lat. (Schloss) 49 50" N.; Ion. 8 24 44" E. (L.) It is in the form of a wheel, of which the ducal palace is the 1. Grand-ducal Palace. 2. Garden o! do. 3. Library and Mus. ot >> at 4. Theatre. 5. Botanic Garden. 6. Grand-ducal M.-WS. 7. Seminary lor Teachers. 8. General Post-office. 10. Polytechnic Institution. ... _udwi? sTbor. IS. >tuhlb^rcer Tlior. m. Durlac her Thor. centre or nave, from which 32 openings radiate. These were originally, and many still are, mere avenues leading to the ducal residence, but more than a third of them are now lined with buildings, and converted into streets, which gives the town the wheel or fan-like form by which it is characterized. The streets are wide, well paved, well lighted, and furnished with foot-paths. The houses are built in a variety of styles, and many of them exceedingly handsome. Carlsruhe is, in part, walled, and has seven gates, one of which, the Ettlinger, is a beautiful specimen of architecture. There are five prin cipal squares, in one of which, the market-place, is a monu ment of red sandstone, erected in memory of the founder of CARLSTAD CABMOE tlie city, who lies buried beneath. The grand ducal palace, or Schloss, is built in the old French style, and consists of a main-building or centre, and two wings. Extending from these are, on one side, the orangery and hot-houses ; on the other, the stables and riding-school. From the turret of the palace, called the Jileithurm, a fine view of the town and surrounding country is obtained. Among the more remarkable public buildings are the Protestant and R. Catholic churches, built by Weinbrenner ; the synagogue, the palace of the Dowager Margravine of Baden, and the polytechnic school, in the style of the Middle Ages. The Protestant church, founded in 1807, is built in the pure Roman style. The R. Catholic church is adorned with a handsome portico, supported by eight Tonic columns, and lighted by a cupola 100 ft. high, and of the same width. The synagogue is in the Oriental style. Be sides the two palaces mentioned, there are several others, belonging to the nobility, deserving of notice. There are also the townhall, the lyceum, the mint, and the house of the Legislative Assembly, post-office, infantry and cavalry bar racks, arsenal, cannon and bell-foundry, and several hospitals, one of which was founded by Stultz, the celebrated London tailor, who endowed it with 100,000 florins (8500). The theatre, another handsome structure, was destroyed by fire in 1847, when many lives were lost. Connected with the ducal palace are a library, consisting of 80,000 volumes, and con taining, also, many valuable MSS., a cabinet of coins, and a museum of natural history, including a great variety of fossil remains. There is also a public library, containing 90,000 volumes, and a botanic garden. There are numerous elementary schools, Protestant, R. Catholic, and Jewish. The more special schools are the polytechnic, veterinary, military, evangelical, normal, and music. The manufac tures are: chemical stuffs, machinery, including locomotives, tobacco, playing cards, jewellery, carpets, cloth, mustard, and carriages ; and a considerable transit trade is carried on by means of the Rhine, and of the railways which connect the city with Frankfort-on-the-Main, with France, Switzerland, &c. Carlsruhe is a modern city, its foundation having been laid in 1715, by Charles William, Margrave of Baden, in a locality that served as a hunting rendezvous. Pop. 22,619 ; of whom 14,538 are Protestants, and 8081 R. Catholics. CARLSTAD, a tn. Sweden, Ian of same name, N. shores of Lake Wenern, on an isl. formed by the two mouths of the Klar, and connected with the mainland by a bridge across either stream, one of which is the largest and most beautiful stone bridge in the kingdom. It is beautifully situate, regularly built, is the seat of a bishop, and has a cathedral, gymnasium, townhouse, freemasons hall, theatre, and small harbour. Pop. 3108. The LAN, bounded, N. and W. by Norway, N.E. by Falu Ian.. E. by Orebro, S. by Marienstad, and \V. by Weners- borg ; area, 6868 s-q. m., consists of several valleys, generally lying N.W. to S.E., and has numerous streams and lakes. Though hilly, it is not mountainous, its highest points being barely 1000 ft. high. Oats and rye, and, to a less extent, other kinds of grain, are cultivated, and cattle reared, and iron is exported from the numerous mines of the country. Pop. 189,611. CARLSTADT [anc. Carolostadiuni\,a. tn. Austria,Croatia, circle, Hither Save, co. and 34 m. S.W. Agram, agreeably sittiate in a perfectly level and richly-cultivated plain, near the junction of the Kulpa, Korana, and Dobra. It is sur rounded with walls, flanked with bastions, and consists of the town proper and the citadel, together with the suburb of Du- bovacz, which is entirely built of wooden houses, the proprie tors having been allowed to erect them on the understanding that, in the event of an enemy appearing, they are to be burnt or torn down at a moment s notice. Carlstadt, though not a place of great strength, used to be considered as the bulwark of Croatia against that angle of the Ottoman empire which is called the Trockene Grenze, or Dry Frontier. It is tolerably well built, and contains five R. Catholic churches, and a Greek non- united church, a Franciscan cloister, barracks, and armoury for 30,000 stand of arms, a gymnasium, a head and a girls school, and a civil and military hospital. It has almost no manufactures, but its transit trade is considerable. Pop. 6000. CARLTON, 18 pars. Eng.: 1, par. Bedford; 1530 ac. Pop. 444. 2, par. Suffolk; 2070 ac. Pop. 133. 3, par. York, N. Riding ; 830 ac. Pop. 259. 4, par. York, W. Riding; 2390 ac. Pop. 1242. 5, Carl ton -Castle, par. Lincoln; 500 ac. Pop. 52. 6, Carlton- Cohillc, par. Suf folk ; 21 30 ac. Pop. 785. 7, Carlton- Cum- Willunjham, par. Cambridge; 2200 ac. Pop. 424. 8, Carlton-Ciirlicu, par. Leicester; 2970 ac. Pop. 208. 9, Carlton (East), par. Nor folk ; 1140 ac. Pop. 310. 10, Carlton (East), par. Nor thampton; 1420 ac. Pop. 68. 11, Carlton (Great), par. Lincoln ; 2190 ac. Pop. 352. 12, Carlton (Little), par. Lin coln ; 940 ac. Pop. 136. 13, Carlton-le-Moorland, par. Lincoln; 2610 ac. Pop. 331. 14, Carlton in-Lwdriclu; par. Nottingham ; 3980 ac. Pop. 1 047. 15, Carlton (Nortlt\ par. Lincoln; 1940 ac. Pop. 178. 16, Carlton-Ifode, par. Norfolk; 2680 ac. Pop. 938. 1.7, Carlton- Scroop, par. Lin coln ; 1 460 ac. Pop. 2 19. 18, Carlton (South), par. Lincoln ; 2040 ac. Pop. 166. CARLUKE.par. Scot. Lanark; 8m. by4J. P.(1851),6283. CARMAGNOLA, a tn. Sardinian istafes, prov. of, and 15 m. S.S.E. Turin, 2 m. from 1. bank, Po. It has two suburbs ; and streets tolerably well laid out, some of them, and also the public square, having arcades covering the foot path. It also has five churches, four convents, and an hospital ; a good trade in silk, hemp, linen, grain, and cattle; and annual fairs well frequented. In 1691 and 1796, it was taken by the French. Pop. 3500. CARMARTHEN, co. and tn. Wales. Sec CAERMAUTHEN. CARMAUX, or CARMEAUX, a vil. France, dep. Tarn, 1. bank, Cerou, 9 m. N. Alby. In its vicinity coal is wrought. Pop. 1951. CARMAVY-G RANGE, par. Irel. Antrim; 789 ac. P. 307. CARMEL, or KUKMUL: 1, An anc. ruined tn. Asiatic Turkey, Palestine, about 7 m. from Hebron, and believed to be the place mentioned in Scripture, 1 Sam. xv. 12; xxv. 2. The ruins, scattered about the head, and along the sides of a valley among the mountains of Judah, indicate a town onto of considerable extent ; the most remai-kable ruin is that of a quadrangular castle, occupying a knoll i-n the midst of tho town. 2, Carmel (Mount), a range of hills, Asiatic Turkey, Palestine, extending N.W. from the plain of Esdraelon, ending in the only great promontory upon the coast of Palestine, and forming the Bay of Acre. These hills form a curve of about 6 m., and vary in height, from 1500 to 1800 ft. At their S. foot runs the brook Kishon; and, a little farther N., the river Belus. The whole range is of compact limestone ; and con tains hundreds of caves. Upon the summit of Carmel is a convent, which gave name to the monks of that name ia Europe. It was destroyed, in 1821, by Abdallah Pasha; but, by the aid of contributions from Europe, has been re built. 3, Cape Carmel, a promontory, Palestine, S. side of the Bay of Acre, and the termination of Mount Carmel ; lat. 32 51 12" N.; Ion. 34 57 45" E. (R.) CARMEN, a tn. and two islands, America: 1, A tn. La Plata, prov. Buenos Ayres, near the confines of Patagonia, on the side of a steep sandstone bank, 1. bank, Rio Negro, 16 m. from its embouchure in the S. Atlantic; lat. 41 4 S. ; Ion. 62 50 W. The streets are very irregular, and the houses are, for the most, mere huts of one story, built of mud and bricks. The most conspicuous edifice in the place is a ruinou.i mud fort, defended by seven old, and almost useless pieces of artillery. This fort was erected by Francisco Viedma, at the formation of the settlement, in 1779, and was intended as a military station for the protection of the Spanish settlements on the W. coast of S. America. The soil in the neighbour hood of the town is fertile, and produces wheat, barley, Indian corn, and various kinds of fruits and vegetables. Sheep, horses, cattle, and goats are also abundant. Pop. about 1230. 2, An isl. Gulf of California; lat. (E. point) 26 10 N. ; Ion. 111 2 W. (R.) It contains an inland lake, from which a considerable quantity of salt is annually obtained. 3, An isl. Gulf of Mexico, Yucatan, at the entrance of the lagoon of Terminos; lat. (W. end) 18 38 24" N.; Ion. 91 50 42" W. (R.) CARMTCIIAEL, par. Scot. Lanark; 18 sq. m. Pop., (1851), 805. CARMIGNANO, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 13 m. W. Florence, E. side of Mount Albano. It contains a parish church, and several other public edifices. Pop. 1544. CARMOE, or KARMOE, an isl., S.W. coast, Norway, bail. Stavanger, at the mouth of the Bukke-fiord ; lat. (S. end) 59 10 N.; Ion. 5 10 E.; separated from the mainland by CARMONA 607 CARNDONAG1I a strait about 2 in. wide. It is 20 in. long, by about G broad, and is well cultivated ; cattle-rearing and fishing are also carried on. Harald Harfarger died here A.D. 936. Pop. 6000. CARMONA [ane. Carmo], a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 20 in. E.N.E. Seville, cap. dist. of same name, E. extremity of an elevated ridge, overlooking a rich and extensive plain, covered with olive trees. It is surrounded with walls, and is, in general, clean and well-built, containing a number of good houses, and several handsome mansions, belonging to some of the nobility, who, though usually resident in Seville, spend part of the year here ; it has, besides, two principal squares, one of which is well planted, and is partly formed by a hand some church of Gothic architecture, with a lofty tower; while the other is used as the market-place, and partly formed by ~~"- ~ -^:.- : - THB MARKET PLACE, CAKMONA From Uobera s Spanish Sketches. several of the most important public edifices. One of the most conspicuous objects in the town is an old Moorish castle, still in tolerable preservation, flanked with massy towers, faced with tin, and blackened by age. The other principal edifices, in addition to those already mentioned, are six parish churches, all in Gothic, or semi-Gothic style, and more or less handsome ; the consistorial buildings, occupying the old Jesuit college of San Teodomiro ; several well-endowed hos pitals, and educational establishments, two ancient Roman gates, particularly the one called the Gate of Cordova; and a handsome theatre, of recent construction. The manufactures consist of ordinary woollen cloth, coarse frieze, hats, leather, earthenware, tiles for roofing and pavement, soap, &c. There are also several flour, and numerous oil-mills, and an important fair, chiefly for cattle, which lasts three days. Pop. 15,121. CARMUNNOCK, par. and vil. Scot. Lanark; 6 m. by 4 m. Pop. (1851), 710. CARMYLIE, par. Scot. Fwfar; 12sq. m. P. (1851), 1240. CARN, two pars. Irel.:l,Wexford; 1963 ac. Pop. 914. 2, Kildare ; 1457 ac. Pop. 499. CARNABY, par. Eng. York, E. Riding, 1950ac. P. 185. CARNAC, a vil. France, dep. Morbihan, 15 m. S.E. Lorient, on a height near the coast. It contains a handsome church, enriched by the votive offerings of pilgrims who an nually visit it in great numbers. The great druidical monu ment of Carnac, the most extensive in France, is situate about tliree-quarters of a mile from this village, and is traversed by the road from Auruy. In the midst of a wide heath stand about 10,000 rude blocks of gray granite, set on end, angular, showing no marks of polish, and covered over with long moss, indicating the great length of time they must have stood in their present position. They are in the form of obelisks, with the vertex reversed, none of them exceeding 18 ft. high, and r.re arranged in 11 lines, forming 10 avenues, with a curved row of 18 stones at one end. There are many gaps in the stony lines, as every house and wall in the vicinity seems to have been built from this ready quarry. The origin of this remarkable monument is unknown. Pop. 2600. CARNAGH, par. Irel. Wexford; 2106 ac. Pop. 352. CARNALWAY, par. Irel. Kildare; 3841 ac. Pop. 1 J81. CARNARVON, co. and tn. AVales. See CAERNARVON. CARNARVON, a co. W. Australia, the most N.E. in the colony; lat. 31 S.; about 65 m. in extreme length, E. to W., and about 45 in breadth. In its centre are several granite hills, called Highclere Hills ; 0*1 the S. are some low wooded hills, and extensive tracts of grassy country. There is also a pretty large lake of fresh water in the county, called Lake Brown, which is dry in October. CARNARVON, or CAERNARVON BAY, a large inlet of St. George s Channel, W. coast, Wales, counties Caernarvon and Anglesey, extending 34 m. from near Ilolyhead on the N., to Braichy Pwll on the S. CARNATIC, an extensive mari time prov. S. Hindoostan, extending along the Coromandel coast, from Cape Comorin to the river Gondegam, or between lat. 8 and 16 N.; and Ion. 77 and 81 E. ; length, S. to N., about 550m.; average breadth, about 90 m.; intersected, S.W. to N.E., by a ridge of mountains called the Ghauts, the culminating peak of which, as far as yet ascertained, is Mount Permaul, 7364ft. high, the loftiest known summit S. of the Himalayas. It is divided into S., Central, and N. Carnatic. The first extends from Cape Comorin to the river Colleroon, about 260 m. ; the second, from the Colleroon to the river Pennar, about 220 m. ; the third, from the Pennar to the river Gondegam, about 70 m. Madras is situate near the centre of Central Carnatic. The general division of the country is into high and low lands, or Upper and Lower Carnatic ; in the first, all kinds of grain are cultivated; in the last, rice. The soil is fertile in the well- watered valleys, but poor on the high grounds. Sugar and indigo are cultivated in small quantities. The cotton chiefly raised is the common dwarf kind. Few trees grow here spontaneously, and none will thrive, under any treatment, near Madras, around which the soil is very poor, consisting of a heavy, sterile, salt loam, and there are other tracts equally barren. The climate of the Lower Carnatic, or country between the ghauts and the sea, is the hottest in India. On the coast, this excessive heat is tempered by the sea-breeze; but 10 or 12 m. inland, its intensity is rather increased than lessened by it, in consequence of its passing over the heated intervening tract. When the sea-breeze fails, which it some times does for several days together, the heat on the coast becomes intolerable, the thermometer rising to 1 30 in the shade. In May, June, and July, showers are frequent, which have the effect of cooling the air, and promoting vegetation. The principal rivers are the Pennar, the Palaur, the Colleroon, and the Vaygaroo, all of which have their sources in the table land above the ghauts, and discharge themselves into the Bay of Bengal. The majority of the inhabitants of the Carnatic are Hindoos, the Mahometans being thinly scattered over the country. A large portion of the land is rented by Brahmins, but these seldom labour with their own hand, employing slaves of the inferior Sudra castes to cultivate their farms. There are a few Mahometan farmers who possess slaves ; but the most numerous class of agriculturists are Sudras, who are looked down upon by the Brahmins as an inferior race, and, in towns, are not permitted to dwell in the same street with the latter. Few provinces of India can exhibit so many large temples, and other evidences of former wealth and civiliza tion, as the Carnatic. Its forts and fortresses were also ex ceedingly numerous, but these are now falling rapidly into decay. The Carnatic was conquered by the British in 1783, but was notfinally ceded to us till 1801 . Pop. about 7,000,000. CARNBEE, par. Scot. Fife; 5 m. by 4 m. Pop. 1043. CARNCASTLE, par. Irel. Antrim ; 9726 ac. Pop. 2079. CARNDONAGH, a small tn. Ireland, co. Donegal, 19 m. N. Londonderry. It has several places of worship, a few schools, and a number of large and well-built houses. P. 653 CAKNEW 008 CAROLINA (NORTH) CARNEW, par. Irel. Wexford; 8115 ac. Pop. 7205. CARNGIWEH, par. Wales, Carnarvon. Pop. 119. CARN1COBAR, an isl. Bay of Bengal, the most N. of the Nicobar group, about SO m S. by E. the Little Andaman ; lat. (centre) 9 10 N. ; Ion. 92 54 E. ; about 6 m. N. to S., and 5 broad, very little elevated above the sea, except at the W. side. The middle of the island is covered with long, rich grass, where multitudes of hogs are bred ; near the coast are fruit trees of various kinds, particularly orange, citron, lemon, and lime trees ; plantains, yams, and sweet potatoes may be also procured, but cocoa-nuts are in the greatest abundance, and on these all the animals are fed, there being no sort of grain grown on the island. The inhabitants are hospitable and inoffensive. CARNIERES, a vil. and com. Belgium, prov. Hainaut, 1 1 m. W. Charleroy, r. bank, Haine. Here are several coal mines and iron-works; including 60 nailers forges, employing 300 people. Pop. 2557. CARNIOLA [German, Kraut], a duchy of Austria, form ing three circles in gov. Laibach, kingdom Illyria, namely, circles Laibach, Neustiidt, and Adelsberg, between lat. 45 10 and 46 20 N.; and Ion. 13 50 and 16 25 E.; having Carinthia and Styria N. and E., Croatia and Lombardy S. and W. ; area, 2903 geo. sq. m. It is covered with lofty moun tains, some of which are about 10,000 ft. high, and, generally speaking, is one of the most unfertile regions of the empire. Some districts, however, produce considerable quantities of wheat, barley, wine, and, in the S., fruits of various kinds, and excellent flax. Bees are numerous in S. Carniola, and silk worms are reared. It has many small lakes, but few rivers of any importance. The largest is the Kulpa. There are some iron, lead, and quicksilver mines, the latter exceedingly rich. It abounds in clays and valuable stones, and in coal and marble. There are considerable manufactures of iron, fine linen, lace, woollen cloth, flannel, worsted stockings, leather, wooden articles, &c. Its chief exports are steel- wares, quicksilver, hats, linens, glasswares, wax, wine, flour, &c. ; principal imports salt, oil, fruit, coffee, sugar, tobacco, cloths, cattle, &c. Carniola was made a duchy in the 12th century, under the dominion of the counts of Tyrol, who be came extinct in 1 335, and were succeeded by the Earls of Goerz. After the treaty of Vienna, in 1809, it was ceded to France, and incorporated in the kingdom of Illyria. In 1814, it came again into the possession of Austria. Capital Laibach. The inhabitants are industrious and temperate, and all E. Catholics. Pop. 427,000. CARNMONEY, par. Irel. Antrim ; 8937 ac. Pop. 6128. CARNO, par. Wales, Montgomery; 5000 ac. Pop. 995. CARNOCK, par. Scot. Fife ; 2260 ac. Pop. 1270. CARNOUL, CURNOUL, or KURNOOL, a fortified tn. Hin- doostan, presid. Madras, prov. Balaghaut, cap. ancient princi pality of same name, r. bank, Toombuddra, 250 m. N.W. Madras; lat. 15 49 58" N.; Ion. 78 6 19" E. (L.) The fort is well defended on three sides by the rivers Henday and Toom buddra, the latter here 765 to 875 yds. broad, while the W. side is strongly fortified. The interior is almost entirely covered with stone and mud houses. Towards the S. of the fort is the pettah, or suburbs, which are of considerable extent. Pop. 4000. CARNSORE POINT, a headland, Ireland, co. Wexford, forming the S.E. extremity of the island ; lat. 52 10 18" N. ; Ion. 6 21 42" W. (R.) CARNTEEL,par.andtn.Irel.Tyrone; 13,432 ac. P. 7903. CARNWATH, a vil. and par. Scotland, co. Lanark, 27 m. S.E. Glasgow. The VILLAGE, 7 m. N.E. Lanark, con tains several handsome houses, and has of late years greatly improved ; and has a parish, a Free, and a U. Presbyterian church. The PARISH, 12 m. by 8 m., abounds in valuable minerals ; lime, coal, and iron, being wrought to a great ex tent. There are also extensive iron-works. See LANARK SHIRE. Pop. (1851), 3553. CAROLINA, a tn. New Granada, prov. Antioquia; lat. 6 45 N. Pop. 1572. CAROLINA (LA),atn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 36m. N.N.E. Jaen, on a slope of the sierra Morena. The streets generally lie at right angles, and are noted for cleanliness and uniformity. There are two squares, and a bull-ring ; a parish church, townhouse, prison, two schools, a cemetery, and some handsome fountains. Manufactures: linen and woollen fabrics, oil, nnd a little wine. This town is the capital of the German colonies, formed in the reign of Charles III. Tho settlers received a grant of land, and various other advantages; even yet, the district is distinguished by the superior industry and activity of its inhabitants. Pop. 1739. (Madoz.) CAROLINA (NORTH), one of the southern U. States, be tween lat. 33 50 and 36 30 N. ; and Ion. 75 45 and 84 W. ; bounded, N. by Virginia, W. Tennesee, S. South Caro lina, and E. the Atlantic ; length, E. to W., 430 m.; breadth, 180; area, 48,000 sq. m. A ridge of sand runs along the whole coast of this state, and is partially separated from it by arms of the sea of greater or less extent. The passages into them are shallow and dangerous, and the only one through which vessels can pass is Occacock inlet, formed by Capes Hatteras and Lookout, off which, particularly the former, disastrous shipwrecks arc of frequent occurrence. The sur face, for 60 or 80 in. from the coast, is a dead flat, covered with swamps and marshes, through which muddy streams pur sue a sluggish course. The chief natural product is the pitch pine, which attains a great size. The soil is generally poor and sandy; but in many of the swamps along the margins of the rivers, rice of fine quality is raised. The climate of this part of the district is very unhealthy. Farther inland for about 40 m., though the soil continues sandy, the surface loses its monotonous appearance, and becomes undulating, after which it gradually ascends, becomes more fertile, and assumes the form of a table land, being 1800 ft. above the sea, and forms the base of a portion of the Alleghany Mountains. The principal summits are Grandfather Mountain, 5556 ft. high ; Roan Mountain, 6038 ft. ; and Black Mountain, 6476 ft., the greatest height in the U States E. of the Rocky Moun tains. The soil of this elevated district, particularly its W. slopes, is generally fertile ; and, when not brought under cul tivation, is occupied by magnificent trees of oak, walnut, lime, and cherry. The climate here is pure and salubrious. Winter is occasionally severe. The principal minerals of N. Carolina are gold and iron. The former, which is found both in grains and in masses, and lumps, along both sides of the Blue Uidge, was at one time obtained in such quantities, as to have pro cured for that district the name of the gold region of the U. States. The produce has progressively declined ; and, being now eclipsed by that of California, will probably cease to be sought after. Iron, of excellent quality, abounds, and traces of both lead and coal have been discovered. The principal rivers are the Chowan, Cape Fear, Pamlico, Roanoke, Neuse, Yadkin, and Catawba. They are admirably fitted for internal communication, but, owing to the sluggishness of the latter part of their course, are encumbered at their mouths with bars, which unfit them for the navigation of large vessels. They are well supplied with fish ; but near the coast are in fested with enormous alligators. The chief wild quadrupeds are the wild cat and the wolf; among wild birds, the first place belongs to the turkey; the worst reptile is the rattle snake. The chief agricultural products are Indian corn, rice, wheat, oats, tobacco, and cotton. The cane grows luxuriantly, but comparatively little sugar is made, the greater part being consumed green by cattle, particularly hogs, which in N. Carolina far out-number every other class of domestic animals. Neither the trade nor manufactures of this state are of much importance. The latter are chiefly cotton yarn, ironware, earthenware, soap, leather, and flour. The former, in conse quence of the want of harbours, is chiefly conducted through the neighbouring states. The chief exports are rice, cotton, and the products yielded by the pitch pine, namely, pitch, tar, turpen tine, and timber. The exports, in 1847, amounted to 56,983 ; imports, 28,476. N. Carolina is one of the slave-holding states, and exhibits in its condition not a few of the baneful effects of that nefarious practice. Its internal improvements contrast unfavourably with those of some of the N. states, and neither religion nor education can be said to be flourishing. The most numerous religious denominations are the Metho dists, Baptists, and Presbyterians ; but the whole number of their communicants falls short of that of the white persons, above 20 years of age, who can neither read nor write. The Legislature consists of a Senate of 50, and a House of Com mons of 120 members, both elected biennially, the former only by freemen possessing a freehold qualification of 50 acres of land, who vote in districts regulated by the amount of state taxes paid ; the latter by all free white men of 21 years of CAROLINA (Soura) 609 CARPATHIAN MOUNTAINS age, who have been inhabitants of the state for the previous 12 months, and who vote in counties regulated by population. The governor is also elected by the latter class of voters, but the judges of the supreme court are chosen by a joint ballot of both houses, and hold their office ad vitam aut culpam, The seat of Legislature is Raleigh. Top. 753,419 ; of whom 245,817 are slaves. CAROLINA (SOUTH), one of the southern U. States, between lat. 32 2 and 35 10 N.; and Ion. 78 24 and 83 30 W. ; bounded, N. and N.E. by N. Carolina, N.W., W., S.W., and S. by Georgia, S.E. by the Atlantic; length, S.E. to N.W., 200 m. ; breadth, 125; area, 25,000 sq. m. In shape it is an irregular triangle, of which the vertex is in the N.W., while the base is washed by the sea, and lined by a chain of fine islands which furnish the famous sea island cotton. The natural division of this state is into the lower, middle, and upper country. The first stretches from the sea for 80 to 100 m. inland, and is covered with extensive forests of pitch pine, interspersed with swamps and marshes. Along its rivers and creeks are rich alluvial tracts, on which fine crops of cotton and Indian corn are grown. The swamps form fine rice plantations. The lower country terminates with a range of low sand hills, of a curious undulating appearance, which continue for 60 or 70 m., and forms the middle country. Between these hills some tolerable land occurs, but the greater part of it is mere waste, unfit for cultivation. The upper country, beginning with what is called the Ridge, which rises suddenly, and with some degree of abruptness, attains a con siderable elevation, and forms a fine tract of hill and dale, abundantly watered with streams of pure water. It termin ates in the Alleghany ranges, which pass through the state, and throw out several branches with lofty peaks. The highest is Table Mountain, which is 4000 ft. above the sea level. The upper country is salubrious, beautiful, and generally fer tile. The minerals of this state include gold, iron, and some load, also marble, various ochres, potter s-clay, and fuller s earth. The principal rivers are the 1 edee, the Santee, formed l:y the junction of the "Wateree and Congaree, the Edisto, and the Savannah, a noble stream, which, during its whole course, proceeding from N.W. to S.E., forms the boundary between this state and Georgia. The staple productions are cotton and rice. Indigo was at one time extensively cultivated, but cotton, being found more profitable, has superseded it. Great quantities of Indian corn are raised. The other ordinary agricultural crops are wheat, oats, and potatoes. The chief manufactures are cotton-twist and leather, but neither is of much importance. Almost the only exports are the staples of rice and cotton, already mentioned. The total exports, in 1847, amounted to 2,086,303; imports, 226,303. The largest and most commercial town of the state is Charleston ; but its harbour is encumbered by a dangerous sand bar. The capital is Colombia. The Legislature consists of a Senate of 45 members, elected by districts for four years, one-half re newed every second year; and a House of Representatives of 124 members, apportioned among the districts according to the number of whites and taxation, and elected for two years. The governor is elected for two years by both houses jointly; the supreme judges are chosen by the same bodies, and hold office ad vitam aut cidfam. Top. 594,398; of whom 327,038 are slaves. CAROLINE ISLANDS, or NEW PHILIPPINES [Spanish, Carolines, Fclipinas-Nuevas}, a large archipelago, N. 1 acific Ocean, between lat. 3 and 12 N., and Ion. 132 and 172 E. It contains at least 50 groups, while the individual islets which stud its surface are almost incalculable. Many of them are mere coral reefs little elevated above the ocean, but the prin cipal groups beginning at the W. and proceeding E., are the Pelew Islands, Yap or Gouap. Dangerous Matelotes, L lie, llaweis, Enderby, Hogoleu or Kong, Pmpcrrey, Onalan, T?a- dick, Piscadores or Wallis, Radack Chain, Chatham, and Mar- bhalls. The most important vegetable productions are palms, bread-fruit trees, and bananas. The inhabitants belong to different races, and have made very different degrees of pro gress in civilization. In the central groups they are of a handsome physical type, active, and industrious, and have some commerce. On the E. generally, and on the "W., with the exception of the Pelew Islands, the inhabitants, though apparently of the same stock, are far less advanced. The archipelago was first discovered by the Spaniards in 1543. VOL. I. The expedition of Duperrcy and d Urville, and the visit of Captain Hall, particularly to the Pclew, have furnished much The Captain Ha interesting information with regard to them ; but the most recent, and also perhaps most important, accounts have been furnished by the Russian navigator Liitke. Many of the groups, however, have not yet been visited, and ninny more are very imperfectly known. CAROM B, a tn. France, flep. Vaucluse, 5 m. N.E. Car- pentras, in a fertile district. It contains an old castle, and is surrounded by walls and ditches, which give it the appearance of a fortress, though it is said not to be strong. In the neigh bourhood a narrow ravine has been dammed up, so as to re tain the waters of a rivulet, and form an extensive lake, which is employed for the purpose of irrigation. Pop. 2100. CARONIA, a vil. and com. Sicily, prov. Messina, dist. of, and 8 m. N. Mistretta, and nearly 2 m. S. from the coast. The inhabitants arc chiefly employed in the Bosco di Caronia, a forest a few miles S. of the village, and the most extensive in Sicily. Pop. 1810. CARONY, a river, Venezuela, clep. Orinoco, rising in the sierra Pacaraima, on the confines of Brazil, flowing generally N., receiving the Acaman and Paragua, and, after a course of between 300 and 400 m., falling into the Orinoco 80 m. E. Angostura. It is rendered wholly unnavigable by numerous cataracts, one of which, 15 ft. high, is near its mouth; and such is the rapidity of its current, that, for a considerable distance after entering the Orinoco, its waters can easily be distinguished from those of that river. GABON -YS-CLAWDD, a par. Wales, co. Cardigan. Pop. 2572. CAROOR, a tn. Ilindoostan, Carr.atic, 77 m. W.N.W. Tanjore, 1. bank, Amaravati, 6 m. W. its confluence with the Caviri; lat. 11 N. ; Ion. 78 8 E. ; in a fertile district, and defended by a fort, now in a ruinous condition. It contains a famous Hindoo temple, and about 1000 houses, and was for merly a place of great commercial importance. CARORA, or CAROEO, a tn. and dist. Venezuela, prov. of, and 100m. S.W. Coro, about 50m. E. of Lake Maracaybo, on the Tocuyo; lat. 10 13 N. ; Ion. 70 26 W. It is tolerably well built, and contains a handsome parish church, a Franciscan convent, and a hermitage. The climate, though hot, is salubrious ; but the soil is dry and sterile. The dis trict is famous for its aromatic balsams, resins, and gums, and a kind of wild cochineal, the gathering of which once formed the chief occupation of the inhabitants. The breeding and rearing of useful domestic animals is much attended to. Manufactures : leather and shoes, cloth, ropes, and very handsome hammocks, from the fibre of the Agave fcetida. Trade: in these articles and other products of industry, with Coro, Maracaybo, and Cartagena. Before the wars of inde pendence, the pop. was 9000. CAROTTO, a vil. Naples, prov. Naples, 5 m. S.\V. Cas- tel-a Mare. It has two churches, and a marine school founded by Ferdinand IV. The silkworm is extensively reared in the district. Pop. 3500. CAROUGE,a tn. and par. Switzerland, can. of, and about 1 m. S. Geneva, surrounded by fine villas, orchards, and mea dows. It contains a handsome R. Catholic, and, immediately adjoining, a Protestant church, manufactures, a fine pottery, and has several tanneries and an extensive cotton factory. Pop. 4367. CARO VIGNO, a tn. and com. Naples, prov. Terra d Ot- ranto, 17 m. W.N.W. Brindisi. It stands on a hill, and con tains a church, two convents, and an hospital. Pop. 3576. CARPANETO, a tn. and com. Italy, duchy Parma, 13 m. S.E. Piacenza, between the Vezzino and Chero. It contains a medical and two elementary schools. Good grain and wine of very fine quality are produced here. Pop. 5134. CARPATHIAN, or KARPATHIAN MOUNTAINS [German, Karpathcn; anc. Carjmtus, 7 atra Tatri], a range of mountains, Europe, chiefly in Austria, which, commencing at New Orsova, on the Turkish frontier of the Banat of Austria, where the bed of the Danul e is all that separates it from Mount Haemus, proceeds first N.E. and then E. to the frontiers of Moldavia, where it trends, first N.W., then AV-, and, finally, S.AV., as far as Presburg, enclosing the plains of Hungary, and forming a semicircular belt, nearly 800 m. long by 250 broad. The Carpathian chain may be divided into two great sections, the E. and the "VV. Carpathians, the for- CARPENEDOLO 610 CARKA LOUGH mer curving from the mouth of the Nera, which falls into the Danube 41 m. E. Belgrade, to the source of the Theiss, and forming the boundary between Austria and the principalities of Wallachia and Moldavia; the latter, proceeding from the sources of the Theiss and the Priith, and terminating on the banks of the Danube W. of Presburg, and forming the bound ary between Hungary and Galicia. The principal mountains of the E. group are the Dumoskenye and Szemenik. near the sources of the Nera and Ttmes in the Banat ; the Kozstara, Pojana, and Pietru, near the sources of the Schyl in Transyl vania; the Szurul E. of the pass of the Kothenthurm ; the chain of Fagaras, S. of the town of that name ; the Vurvusz- Illy, E. of the pass of Tertzburg, the Vurvu-Kapri and Kotz- mardi, the Lakotz and Niagul, the Becze-Vapa, the Lokavas, mounts Stroumoura, Pietra, Gallatz, Pietrozza, and Husky. The W. Carpathians, at first lower than the mountains of. Transylvania, rise to the W. of the Poprad, and form the re markable group of Tatra, separated by the little river Arva, from another group called Baszkid, whose principal summits are Zsylecz, Jalovec, and Czerkow. This group unites with a chain which form the W. limits of the Carpathians, and pre sents a series of heights, the chief of which are the Javorina and the Weterling or Weiss-Gebirg. The greatest heights of the E. Carpathians are Ruska-Poyana, 9909 ft. ; Garlu- vipi, 9587 ft.; Buthest, in Transylvania, near Kronstadt, 8C95ft.; Buthest, in Wallachia, 6812 ft.; Eetirzath, 8502 ft. ; and Lentschitz, 8456 ft. The greatest heights of the W. Carpathians are in the Tatra range, namely, the Kriwan, 8029 ft.; the Viszoka, 8312 ft.; the Csabi, same height ; and in the mountains of Lomnitz, the Eisthalerspitze, 8521 ft.; theGrii- neseespitze, 8203 ft. ; the Hundsdorferspitze, 8318 ft. ; and the peak of Lomnitz, 8462 ft. The principal intersections of the mountains, forming the most remarkable and most frequented passes, are those of Teregova, leading from Orsova to Temes war; of Vulkar, forming the valley in which the Schyl flows ; and of the Rothenthurm, in a gorge formed by the Aluta, at the foot of Mount Szurul. The outer bend of the Carpathians is much steeper than that which descends towards the valleys of Transylvania and Hungary. The mountain branch which, stretching N.W. towards Lutowisko and Ustrzyki, separates the basin of the Dniester from that of the Saan, also forms the line of separation between the basin of the Baltic and that of the Black Sea. From this line, as far as Jublunkau in Mora via, all the streams, from the N. slope, fall into the Vistula ; thereafter, all the streams from both sides of the Carpathians belong to the Danube. The only important rivers which actu ally rise in the chain are the Vistula, the Dniester, and the Theiss. The E. part of the Carpathian chain, from Orsova to the source of the Burcza, near Kronstadt, is entirely com posed of primitive rocks. These are succeeded by grey- wacke, which extends to the sources of the Theiss, and is only interrupted by a primitive group between the pass of Borgo and the source of the Viso. A great chain of trachyte appears on the frontiers of the Bukowina, and stretches to the point where the Aluta begins to flow S.W. To the W. of this chain, on approaching the plains, an extensive tract of sandstone, belonging to the coal formation begins to ap pear, and covers the greater part of Transylvania. Ter tiary formations surround the vast plains of Hungary, which consist of a rich alluvium, and must once have been the bed of a lake. Basalt frequently occurs, but no distinct traces of extinct volcanoes have been found. The Carpathian range is rich in minerals, including gold, silver, quicksilver, copper, and iron. Salt occurs in beds, which have sometimes a thickness of 600 or 700 ft., and are apparently inexhaustible. Vegetation also is vigorous. On the plateaux, corn and fruit are grown, to the height of 1500 ft. Higher up, the mountain gteeps are covered with forests of pine, some of them as high as 5500 ft. About 6000 ft. seems to be the vegetable limit. Above it a few lichens may be found, but, in general, nothing is seen but bare steep rocks, many of them in the form conical peaks. (Orographie de V Europe; &c.) CARPENEDOLO, a tn. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 21 m. S.E. Brescia, near 1. bank, Chiese. It contains four churches, and two hospitals, and has manufac tures of silk. Besides a monthly market, it has a fair, which lasts two days. Pop. 4977. CARPENETTO, a vil. Sardinian States, Piedmont div. Alessandria, 6 m. E. Aciui. Pop. 1500. CARPENTARIA (Gur.F OF), an immense gulf in N. Australia, between Cape York, and Cape Wessel the N. point of the Wessel islands, and Cape Arnhein on the mainland. It "s about 400 m. in width, and about 460 in length, taking the coast line of York peninsula, which forms the E. side of the gulf. The land on the E. and S. is so low for a space of 600 m., that no part of the coast is higher then a ship s mast head. The W. shore of the gulf is rather higher. CARPENTRAS (anc. Carpmtoracte), a city, France, dep. Vaucluse, 14 m. N.E. Avignon, 1. bank, Auzon, in a rich and fertile district at the foot of Mont Ventoux. It is surrounded by walls in good repair, flanked with towers, and has four rates exactly opposite each other. The streets are rather larrow, but most of the houses are well built, and almost all ire supplied with water from the fountains in the public squares. Outside of the walls is a broad esplanade, planted with trees. The principal public buildings are the cathedral, a Gothic edifice with a spire of the age of Charlemagne ; the Porte d orunge, a very perfect gate surmounted by a high tower ; the palace of justice, formerly the episcopal palace, close by which is a Roman triumphal arch ; the hospital, erected in 1751 ; public wash-houses, theatre, markets, new prisons, and public library, containing 22,000 volumes, 2000 MSS., 6000 medals, and various antiquities. The aqueduct, a massivo structure, which crosses the valley of the Auzon by 48 arches, and supplies the fountains of the town, was finished in 1734. Carpentras is the seat of the assize court for the department, of a court of first resort, communal college, and society of rural economy. There are here brandy, spirit of wine, and :nce distilleries, manufactories of nitric acid, glue, verdi gris, cotton, and silk yarn. There are also madder mills, tanneries, and dye works. Carpentras is the entrepot for the productions of the district; and the weekly markets for the disposal of them are among the most considerable in the S. of France. A considerable trade is likewise carried on in olive oil, fruit, almonds, madder, clover, lucerne seed, wax, honey, &c. The Romans embellished Carpentras with many edifices, of which the successive ravages of the Goths, Vandal?, Lom bards, and Saracens, have left few traces. In 1313, Popo Clement V. fixed his residence here, and made it the seat of the Pontifical See, an honour that cost the town dear, as at his decease the cardinals were so long in appointing his succes sor, that the people, worn out with their endless disputes and consultations, set fire to the college where they had assembled, and the flames spreading, consumed a large portion of tlio town. The present walls were built by Pope Innocent VI. 50 years after that event. The bishopric, founded in the third century, was suppressed by the concordat of 1801. Pop. 7691. CARPI, a tn. Italy, duchy Modcna, canal of same name, 8 m. N. Modena ; seat of a bishopric, suffragan to Bologna. It is surrounded by walls, defended by a citadel, and has a cathedral, a seminary, and manufactures straw hats and spun silk. Two fairs are held annually ; but the trade is trifling. The neighbourhood produces rice, wheat, hemp, and flax. Pop. 6500. CARPING, a tn. Naples, prov. Capitanata, 22 m. N.E. St. Severo, near Lake Varano. It has three churches. P. 606 1 . CARPIO, three tns. Spain. 1, A tn. Andalusia, prov. of, and 17 m. E.N.E. Cordova, 1. bank, Guadalquiver, on a declivity, on the summit of which stands a castle. It is tol erably well built, and possesses a parish church, townhouse, ladies seminary, two primary schools, a prison, and several convents, brick and lime kilns, and oil-mills. Some trade is carried on in cattle, grain, fruits, &c. Pop. 2696. 2, Cur- pio-el-Tajo, a tn. New Castile, prov. of, and 24 m. W. by S. Toledo, in a hilly locality; houses indifferently built, and streets irregular. It has a church, townhall, prison, ceme tery, and three schools. Serge, glass, and oil, are manufac tured. Pop. 2497. 3, Carpio (ET), a tn. Leon, prov. of, and 35 m. S.W. by S. Valladolid, r. bank, Trabancos; houses poorly built. The town contains a church, a palace of tho counts of Carpio, and a primary school. Pop. 659. Several other places in Spain have the same name. CAl. RA LOUGH, a small lake, Ireland, co. Kerry, 3 m. S. Castlemaine harbour, about 3 m. long, by 1 at its greatest breadth ; abounds in trout and salmon, and exhibits scenery little inferior to that of the far-famed lakes of Kil- 1 larney. CARRACA (LA) Cll CARRICKFERGUS CARRACA (LA), a tn. Spain, Andalusia, dep. of, and 4 m. E.S.E. Cadiz. It is the chief naval arsenal of the govern ment, and ^ne of the most complete in Europe. It stands in the channel E. of the Isle of Leon ; and has been completely isolated from the mainland by artificial means. Its situation is so low and swampy that the buildings have been erected upon piles. It is defended by four batteries ; and, in addition to the extensive buildings connected with the establishment, contains a handsome parish church. A little S. of Carraca, and between it and San Fernando, on the N.E. of the Isle of Leon, a new town, to be called San Carlos, was commenced in 1776, on a very magnificent scale; but few buildings of any consequence have been completed. CARRAGH, par. Irel. Kildare; 3734 ac. Pop 921. CARRAN, par. Irel. Clare; 14,461 ac. Pop. 1144. CARRAN-TUAL, a mountain, Ireland, co. Kerry, rising 3410 ft. above the level of the sea being the highest summit of that remarkable range called Macgillicuddy s Keeks. CARRANCA, a tn. Brazil, prov. Minas Geraes, between Baependi and Sao-Joao-del-Rei, with a church and an agricul tural pop., dist. included, of 4000. CARRARA, a tn. Italy, duchy Modena, 3 m. N.W. Massa, 1. bank, Avenza, 3^ m. above its entrance into the Mediterranean. It has a cathedral, begun in imitation of that at Pisa, but unfinished ; several churches, a convent, an academy of sculpture, and numerous workshops for sawing, cutting, and polishing marble, for which water power is em ployed. There are also flour, oil, powder, and paper mills. Carrara is the seat of a district court, and forms part of the episcopal see of Massa and Carrara. The marble quarries from which this town derives its whole importance, occupy three or four descending ridges which unite in a lofty moun tain called Monte Sagro. For upwards of 2000 years, the marbles have continued to be exported, and still there re main stores apparently inexhaustible. They are of various shades; but the kind most prized is the transparent white kind, used for statuary, of which, however, the quantity ob tained is small, in comparison with that of the inferior kinds. Pop. 5063. CARREIRA ISLES, a small island group, Spain, off E. coast Galicia, prov. Coruna, 22 m. N.W. Vigo. They form part of the parish of San Paya de Carreira, which lies on the mainland along the bay of Arosa, and has a large and well- built parish church. Pop. 1241 CARRETAO, a tn. Brazil, prov. of, and 120 m. E.N.E. Goyaz, with a church, and an extensive and fertile district. The inhabitants, however, are chiefly devoted to mining ; though those who follow cattle-rearing are the richest. CARRICAL, or KAUICAL, a tn. Hindoostan, in the Car- natic, coast of Coromandel, 152 m. S. Madras; lat. 10 55 N.; Ion. 79 53 E. It was formerly a place of importance and strongly fortified, but is now wholly dismantled. CARRICK, a dist. Scot. co. Ayr (which see). CARRICK, four pars. Irel. : 1, Kildare ; 5157 ac. Pop. 552. 2, Westmeath ; 2957 ac. Pop. 532. 3, Tipperary; 2426 ac. Pop. 9165. 4, Wexford; 3009 ac. Pop. 1251. CARRICK-A-REDE, an insulated basaltic rock, Ireland, co. Antrim, about 4 m. N.W. Ballycastle, separated from the mainland by a chasm 60 ft. wide, and more than 80 ft. deep. Here is a valuable salmon fishing station, as the fish can easily be intercepted at this place in their retreat to the rivers. A communication is maintained with the mainland by means of a rude bridge ot ropes thrown across the chasm, and allowed to remain during the fishing season. CARRICK-ON-SHANNON, atn. Ireland, co. Leitrim, 85 m. N.W. Dublin, 1. bank, Shannon, over which is a bridge to a straggling suburb in the county of Roscommon. The town consists, principally, of two streets, intersecting each other at right angles ; is badly paved, and has a handsome church with a spire, a R. Catholic chapel, two Methodist meeting-houses, and parochial schools ; a county courthouse, bridewell, jail, and the county infirmary, with dispensary attached. Being the capital of the county, the assizes are held here, as are the general and petty sessions. It is the chief market for grain and provisions in Leitrim, and carries on an extensive trade in butter and provisions with Dublin and Newry. It has also some trade in coarse linen, druggets, frieze, coarse flannel, and yarn. The prosperity of the place has been greatly in creased by recent improvements on the Shannon, which have rendered that river navigable to Lough Allen, about 8 in. N. of the town. Pop. (1841), 1984. CARRICK-ON-Suiu, a tn. Ireland, co. Tipperary, 85 m. S.W. Dublin, on a plain, 1. bank, Suir, which is navigable, up to the town, for ships of 200 tons burthen. Carrick-beg, a suburb, stands on the r. bank of the river. The town con sists of four streets, three of which are of a good width, and a number of lanes; houses mostly of stone, and well built, though of unequal heights; water abundant. The public buildings, exclusive of the churches, are a courthouse, bride well and barrack, an old castle or monastery, built by the Earl of Ormond, in 1260, for Franciscan friars ; and an an cient abbey in Carrick-beg, founded in the year 1336. This last antique structure presents a curious achitectural peculiarity. The tower is considerably broader than the body of the wall, on which it is supported by an inverted pyramid, commencing CARRICK-HEG ABBEY as existing in 1827. From ft Sketch by Rev. W. HilL on two stones, one projecting from either side. Resting on these projections, the tower rises to a height of 34 ft. 3 inches ; and thus balanced, for there is no central base, it has stood, harmed, the tempests of ages. The churches are the parish church and a R. Catholic chapel, both large, but neither of them particularly handsome. There are a parish school, inder the Church Educational Society ; a school kept by the nonks, and one or two private schools. The town was for merly celebrated for the manufacture of coarse broad-cloth, for the use of the army. It still manufactures ratteen, a coarse woollen fabric, but the trade is now very much re duced. A considerable export trade, in corn, butter, bacon, and live stock, is carried on. Pop. (1841), 8369. CARRICKBAGGOT, par. Irel. Louth ; 826 ac. P. 302. CARRICKFERGUS, a pad. bor. and seaport, and par. Ireland, co. Antrim. The TOWN lies N. side of Belfast Lough, 11 m. N.E. Belfast, with which it is connected by railway. It extends nearly 1 m. along the shore, and consists of the town within the walls, and two suburbs, called the Scotch and Irish quarters. On the N. and W. sides of the town, some portions of the old wall are still entire. The houses are mostly built of stone, roofed with slate, and have, many of them, a substantial and respectable appearance, especially those built within the last 40 years. The parish church, an old, patched, ungainly building, is surmounted by a fine modern spire. There are, also, a R. Catholic chapel, and places of worship for various dissenting congregations ; with merous charities, and a dispensary. The ancient castle of Carrickfergus, an object of considerable interest, is perched on a rocky peninsula projecting into the sea, and is still main tained as a fortress, having a number of guns on the walls, and being garrisoned by one or two companies of foot. The trade of the town was at one time considerable, but has been nearly extinguished by the rivalry of Belfast, to which it has now become subordinate ; the registry of vessels, and the custom s duties, being included in the returns of the latter port. The small importations still taking place here consist of coals, iron, timber, bark, salt, slates, &c. ; the exports, of CARRICKMACROFS 612 CARTAGENA black cattle and grain. The spinning of cotton and linen yarn is carried on to some extent, and there are a large dis tillery, and some extensive tanneries. A good many persons are employed, also, in weaving cotton goods for the Belfast and Glasgow manufacturers. But the chief dependence of the town is on the influx of visitors during the summer season, when it is much frequented by bathers, and on the fishery in the bay, which affords employment to a large por tion of the inhabitants, and is very productive. King William landed at Carriekfergus castle 16 days previously to the battle of the Boyne ; and in 17GO it surrendered to a French squad ron under Thurot, who was soon after killed, having been attacked by some English ships under Commodore Elliot. In 1778, the celebrated Paul Jones captured the Drake sloop of-war in the bay, but made no attempt on t! e town. Pop. (1841), 3885. Area of par., 16,700 ac. Pop. 93V 9. CARRICKMACRO88, a tn. and par. Ireland, co. Mon agban. The TOWN, 46 m. N. W. Dublin, consists of one lonp street, with several smaller ones branching from it. It has r. clean, respectable appearance, and contains several good shops. The parish church is a handsome building, with an elegant steeple. There are here a grammar-school, two national, and various other schools ; a dispensary, a mendicity society, a savings -bank, and a bridewell. A considerable retail trade it carried on with the surrounding country ; and soap, candles, brogues, and coarse hats are manufactured in the town. There is also a lanyard, a brewery, and a distillery. P. (1841), 1997. Area of par., 16,072 ac. P. 13,444. (Local Correspondent.} CAKK1DEN, par. Scot. Linlithgow; 424sq.m. P. 1208. CARRIGAHOLT, a maritime vil. Ireland, co. Clare, on Lay of same name, estuary of the Shannon, 10 m. W.Kilrush. It has a pier, at which agricultural produce is shipped, am; is frequented by fishing craft. Here are the ruins of ar, ancient castle, on the verge of a cliff overhanging the sea. Pop. 426. CARRIGALINE, par. Irel. Cork; 14,590 ac. P. 7489. CARRIGALLEN, or CLINCORICK, a vil. and par. Ireland, co. Leitrim. The VILLAGE, 19m. E.N.E. Carriek-on-Shannon, is a constabulary police station ; has petty sessions every alter nate Saturday ; a weekly market, and several fairs. Pop. 473. Area of par. 18,104 ac. Pop. 4400. CARRIGDOWNANE, par. Irel. Cork; 797 ac. P. 245. CARRIGLEAMLEARY. par. Irel. Cork; 3320 ac. Pop. 1256. CARRIGP ARSON, par. Irel. Limerick; 1449 ac. P.5G8. CARRIGROHANE, par. Irel. Cork; 2658 ac. P. 2279. CARRIGROHANEBEG, par. Irel. Cork; 2061 ac. P.641 . CARRIGTOHILL, a vil. and par. Ireland, co. Cork. The former, 18 m. W. by S. Youghal, is chiefly one long irregular street, and is a constabulary police station, and has several fairs. Pop. 632. Area of par. 10,319 ac. Pop. (1841), 397(3. CARR1GUE, or CARRIGUFOYLE, a small isl. Ireland, co. Kerry, in the Shannon, 1 m. N.W. Ballylongford. It is about 1 J m. in circumference; has a battery, and bomb proof barrack for 20 men, and is a coast-guard station. The castle of Carrigufoyle, belonging to the O Connors, offered a determined resistance to Cromwell, and was one of the last taken by him. CARR1L, a tn. Spain, Galicia, prov. of, and 10 m. N.N.W. Pontevedra, near the mouth of the Ulla ; houses, in general, badly built. The town has a parish church, custom house, primary school, and several marine storehouses. The average value of exports is about 56,000 ; imports, 35,000. Pop. 1100. CARRINGTON, par. Scot. Edinburgh; 3J m. by 2 m. Pop. 616. CARRION, a river, Spain. Leon, prov. Palencia. It rises in the mountains of the Asturias, flows S., and, passing Saldana, Carrion-de los-Condes, and Palencia, falls into the Pisuerga, 22 m. N.E. Valladolid, after a course of 75 m. exclusive of windings. CARR1ON-DE-CALATRAVA, a tn. Spain, New Castile, prov. of, and 7 m. N.E. Ciudad-real, near 1. bank, Guadiana. It is indifferently built, and possesses a large and highly- decorated parish church, a chapel, convent, storehouse, prison, cemetery, and four primary schools. Wine and oil are ex pressed here, and some trade is prosecuted in grain, cattle, wool, and oil. Pop. 3130. CARRION-DE-Los-coxr>ES, a tn. Spain, Leon, prov. of, and 22 m. X. Palencia, 1. bank, Carrion. Most of its streets are narrow, ill paved, and dirty , and it has three squares, the principal containing the townhouse, public storehouse, and other offices. Its remaining public buildings are nine churches, several chapels, convents, and schools, a prison, hospital, and cemetery. In the environs, along the banks ( f the river, are many pleasant public walks, ornamented with trees and fountains. The inhabitants are engaged in tanning, dyeing, expressing wine and oil, and in husbandry. Trade: cattle, grain, fruits, wool, &c. A large and well-attended cattle fair is held in September. Pop. 3132. CARRON, a vil. Scotland, co. Stirling, celebrated for its extensive iron foundries, about 2 m. N.E. Falkirk. The RIVER of same name is a small stream, rising in an extensive meadow called the Carron bog, near the centre of the county, and after an E. course of about 17 m., falling into the Forth at Grangemouth. This stream is supposed by some anti quaries to have been the boundary of the Roman conquests in Britain ; and several memorable battles have been fought on its banks. In its course it supplies water to several print- fields and the great reservoir of the Carron works, and drives some paper-mills. CARRONSHORE, a vil. Scotland, co. Stirling, 2 m. below Carron works, partly in the parish of Larbert, anj partly in that of Bothkennar. Pop. 838. CARROWMORE, a lake, Ireland, co.Mayo, 3J m. N.V.". Tulloghaan Bay, and 1^ m. N.E. Broadhaven Bay. It con tains several islets ; its waters flow by the rivulet Munhiu into the Avonmore, and through it into Tulloghaan Bay. CARRU, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 9 m. N.N.E. Mondoni. Pop. 3800. CARSH ALTON, or CASEHORTOX, par. Eng. Surrey; 2680 ac. Pop. 2228. CARSINGTON, par. Eng. Derby; 1080 ac. Pop. 235. CARSPHAIRN, par. Scot. Kirkcudbright; 88 sq. in. Pop. 790. CARSTAIRS,par.Scot.Lanark;ll,840ac. P.(1851),106G. CART, two streams, Scotland, co. Renfrew. 1, The White Cart rises in Carrot Moss, S.W. Eaglesham, flows N.W. and passing Cathcart and Pollockshaws receives the Levern, passes through Paisley, and falls into the Clyde 6^ m. below Glasgow, after a course of 20 m. 2, The Black Cart, a small unimportant stream, issues from Castle Semple Loch, 5J m. S.W. Paisley, flows N.E. and falls into the White Cart, about a mile above its confluence with the Clyde. CARTAGENA, or CARTHAGENA [anc. Carthago Nova], a tn. and seaport, Spain, prov. of, and 31 m. S.S.E. Murcia, cap. dist. of same name ; lat. (mole light) 37 36 N. ; Ion. 56 W. (R.), about 17 m. W. Cape de Palos. Its harbour, one of the largest and safest in the Mediterranean, has depth of water for the largest vessels, is sheltered from all winds by lofty hills, and guarded from the sea by the island of Escombrera, which forms a complete natural breakwater. It stretches N. and is narrowest at its mouth, where it is defended by the castle of Galeras, occupying one of the heights on the W., and the castle of St. Julian, occupying one of those on the E. The town, situate at the N. end of the harbour, is sur rounded by a lofty wall, flanked with bastions. The space enclosed is much larger than the actual population requires, and everything about the place bears strong evidence of ex tensive, rapid, and comparatively recent decay. The princi pal streets are spacious and regular, and many of the houses, though of simple architecture, well built, and provided with balconies. The most important squares are the Merced or Market-place, the largest of all, lined throughout with elegant buildings, and adorned with a fine fountain, furnishing tl:e purest water so copiously as to supply the greater part of the inhabitants ; and the Monjas, of less dimensions than the former, but occupying both a more centrical and airy situation. The Alameda, in the N.W., near the Madrid gate, is well planted, and affords both a healthy and picturesque promenade. The principal edifices are the cathedral, possessing little architec tural merit, and now, since the bishop s see has been removed to Murcia, converted into a simple parish church, the old castle (Castello Antiguo) supposed co date from the foundation of tho city by the Carthaginians, the barracks, arsenal, presidio or convict establishment, the military hospital, and hospital du Caridad, the artillery park, the observatory, the convents of CARTAGENA 613 CARTAMA St. Augustine and Monjas, and several other convents and churches. When Spain possessed her colonies, and was in a flourishing condition, Cartagena was one of her most important naval stations, and carried on a very extensive commerce, but 1. Royal Hnspitul (Hospital Real). 2. Ancient Castle (Castillo Antiguo). S. Ttrlesia Mnvor Atigua, 4. Conven .o dV Santo Angustm. 5. do. de Monjas. a Mnvor. ery liiirnick Dverything has since gone to decay, and the town can hardly be said to have either trade or manufactures. The latter consists chiefly of red lead, earthenware, cordage, esparto, mats, and glass. The mines, chiefly argentiferous lead, ex tensively wrought in the neighbourhood, give employment to several smelting furnaces and foundries. The chief articles of export are barilla, grain, and esparto. In addition to other causes of decay, Cartagena has suffered greatly by its un- healthiness. Repeated epidemics have raged within it, and carried off the inhabitants by thousands. Pop. including suburbs, 33,593. CARTAGENA or CAETHAGENA, a seaport tn. New Gra nada, cap. prov. of same name, on a small sandy peninsula, connected with the continent by an artificial neck of land ; lat. (dome) 10 25 36" N.; Ion. 75 34 W. (R.) On an island, communicating with the city by means of a wooden bridge, is a large suburb, called Xiximaui. Both the former and latter CARTAGENA, SOUTH AMEKKA. - From n Drawing by Lieu Bellairs, R X. are surrounded by strong fortifications of freestone, and at a short distance from the city, on the mainland, is an eminence about 150 ft. high, on which is built a strong fort commanding the fortifications. This eminence communicates on the E. with a range of more elevated hills, terminating in a summit 550 ft. above the sea, on which stands the Augustine monas tery of Nuestra Senhora de la Popa. The height of La Popa is not fortified, says Capt. Cochrane, which is unaccountable, as it has several times caused the fall of Cartagena without a single shot almost being tired. The port is magnificent, and is the only one on the coast fit for the repair of vessels. It also possesses excellent building docks. The bay, which is land-locked, and has smooth water, extends N. to S. 7 m., and affords excellent anchorage. There were two entrances to the port the Boca Grande, close to the town ; and the Boca Ckica (narrow mouth), many miles farther S. ; but the better to defend the approach, the former has been blocked up by sinking old vessels in it, i: consequence of which, ships are compelled to go round by Boca Chica, a circuit of 30 m., to gain the usual roadstead for frigates, which is 3 or 4 m. from the town. The Boca CMca is defended by two strong castles. The entrance to the port is rendered somewhat difficult by shallows. The town and suburbs are well laid out and well built. The houses are generally of stone, two stories high, with balconies and lattices of wood, which, in this climate, has the durability of iron; and the streets, though not very spacious, are straight, and well paved. Among the public buildings are numerous churches and convents, some of them of great magnificence ; a general and a military hospital, a townhall, a theatre, a circus, and a college, with an average attendance of 200 students. Tli3 spring water is bad, and the inhabitants are in consequence obliged to obtain supplies from immense cisterns, constructed for the purpose of collecting rain water. The weather, espe cially during the rainy season, is excessively hot, and thus both heat and damp combine to render the climate, particularly from May to November, most insalubrious. Leprosy is com mon, and yellow fever often makes fearful ravages. In recent years, owing partly to greater attention to cleanliness, morta lity is said to have decreased. The chief manufactures arc ropes and sail-cloths. The trade of Cartagena, at one tima j considerable, has declined very much, in consequence of tha rivalship of the ports of Santa Martha and Savanilla. Tha export trade is now almost confined to specie and bullion, I conveyed by the steamers of the Koyal Mail Steam-packet Company to England. In 1845, the arrivals and departures of vessels were 39, tonn. 5541 ; value of cargoes imported, 56,786; exported, 13,488. In 1846, the vessels numbered 42, tonn. 6502; cargoes imported, 62,708; exported, 48,712. A canal of 80 m., to connect the bay of Cartagena with tho river Magdalena, is now in progress, and it is anticipated that on its completion the trade of Cartagena will revive. Pop. about 10,000. CART AGO. 1, Atn. Central America, cap. of Costa- Rica, r. bank, of a river of its own name. It was formerly a place of considerable commercial importance, and had a popu lation of about 37,000. It then contained 3000 houses and eight churches, but it was so utterly ruined by an earthquake on September 2, 1841, that only one church and 100 houses were left standing. Near the town is Mount Cartago, rising 11,480 ft. above the sea level, and presenting indications of having at one time been an ac tive volcano. 2, A tn. New Granada, prov. Popayan, intha valley of the Cauca, on the Viega. The streets are broad and straight, and it has a spacious and handsome square, a cathedral, and two parish churches, and a well- conducted Laneasterian school. Its trade is principally in dried beef, live pigs, fruits, coffee, superior cacao, and tobacco. The sugar cane thrives well here. Min erals of various kinds abound, and the hills contain nitre. Cartago is the entrepot for the The climate is hot, but dry and trade of Santa-Fe-cle-Bogota. healthy. Pop. 5500. CARTAMA, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 14 in. W. Malaga, at the base of a hill, called Ma Virgen, crowned with the ruined walls of an ancient fortress. It has wide and paved streets, a square, which contains the church ; a chapel, CARTAYA 614 CASAMANZA school, and several fountains. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in asrrieulture, cattle- rearing, and expressing oil. Top. 2863. (Madoz.) CARTAYA, a tn. and port, Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 9 m. W.N.W. Huelva, 1. bank, Piedra. Its houses are irregularly built, and it has a large square, in which is situate the townhall, now ruinous. It also has two churches, a prison, school, hospital, public granary, now used as a session- house ; custom house, and an old Moorish castle, now converted into a cemetery; docks for ship and boat building, and a marine storehouse. In 1843, 57 vessels entered and sailed from the port, tonn. 2907- The bulk of the people are fisher men. Pop. 4097. CAKTERET, an isl. S. Pacific, Solomon Archipelago; lat. 8 50 S.; Ion. 160 48 E. It bears the name of the English navigator who discovered it in 1767. CARTHAGE, the anc. cap. of a famous country of same name, N. Africa, the site of which is believed to be a few miles N. the city of Tunis, on the N. part of a small peninsula; lat. 36 55 N.; Ion. 10 E. About 30 years after the destruction of Carthage city (B.C. 161), the Romans at tempted to establish a colony on its site, which did not pros per ; but a second, under the name of Colonia Carthago, rose into importance, and became the first city of Roman Africa. In 439, the Vandals, under Genseric, seized it. It was retaken by Belisarius in 553, but was finally destroyed by the Saracens in 698. The few ruins that now exist belong to the Roman city. Not a trace remains of the Carthaginian metropolis. In 1841 , a monument was set up in the locality by the French, in memory of their King Louis IX. (better known as St. Louis), who died of the plague, May 25, 1270, while besieging the neighbouring city of Tunis. CARTHAGE (CAPE), N. Africa, gnlf of Tunis; lat. 36 52 24" N.; Ion. 10 C 20 15" E. (u.) The cape is on the W. side of the gulf, about 10 m. E. from the city. A light house has been erected on this promontory with a revolving light, performing a revolution every three minutes. CARTHAGENA. See CARTAGENA. CARTMEL, a vil. and par. England, co. Lancaster. The VILLAGE is 11 m. S.W. Kendal, in a valley surrounded by lofty and picturesque hills, consists of two principal streets, well kept, and is abundantly supplied with water. The church is a fine old cruciform structure, formerly a priory, founded in 1188. There is an ancient endowed grammar-school, with some small parochial charitable institutions. People chiefly employed in agriculture. Area of par. 22,960 ac. Pop. 4927. (Local Correspondent.) CARUPAISO, a seaport tn. and dist. Venezuela, prov. of, and 57 m. N.E. Cumana, within a few miles of Cariaco; lat. 10 40 N.; Ion. 63 22 W.; agreeably situate at the opening of two fine valleys. The place is said to be healthy, and the inhabitants are of a gay and lively temper, fond of dancing. A battery, seated on an eminence, defends the port. It has some traffic in horses and mules ; and in 1847, the arrivals at the port were 22 vessels, tonn. 789; departures, 67, tonn. 1186. Pop. 5000. CARVIN, a tn. France, dep. Pas-de-Calais, 14 m. E. Bethune, 16 m. N.E. Arras; with manufactures of starch, leather, earthenware, beet sugar, and potato flour. Pop. 4038. CARWAR, a seaport tn. Hindoostan, prov. Canara, 50 m. S.S.E. Goa; lat. 14 50 N. ; Ion. 74 11 E. This was for merly a noted seat of European commerce, the English East India Company having had a factory here so early as 16G3, but durina: Tippoo s reign it fell into utter decay. CARYSFORT, a small vil. Ireland, co. Wicklow, and 5 m. S.W. Rathdrum, formerly a parl. bor., returning two members to the Irish House of Commons. It has a free school, founded by Charles I., which is numerously attended. CARYTENA, a vil. Greece, nome Arcadia, 17 m. W. Tripolitza, near the Carbonaro. It has an old castle, repaired by, and for years the residence of, the celebrated chief Colo- cotroni. Pop. 1000. CASACALENDA, a tn. Naples, prov. Sannio, 18 m. N.E. Campobasso, at the foot of a hill. It has three churches, one of which is in the good Tuscan style ; and a convent. Silk-worms are reared in the neighbourhood, and the district produces wine and fruit of good quality. Pop. 5190. CASALANGUIDA, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Citra, dist. of, and 1 1 m. S.W. Vasto. Pop. 2306. CASALBORGONE, a vil. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 14 m. N.E. Turin. Pop. 2000. CASALBUTTANO, a tn. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 8 m. N.N.W. Cremona, on a navigable canal, between the mountains of Brescia and the Ollio. It contains a parish church, and four oratories; has manufac tures of linen and cotton, and numerous silk-mills, one of the largest silk houses of Italy having its establishment here. Pop. 3903. CASALDUNI, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Sannio, dist, of, and 19 m. S. Campobasso. It has an annual fair. P. 3300. CASALE [anc. Bodincogamits], a tn. Sardinian States, cap. prov. Casale, division of, and 18 m. N.N.W. Alessandria, r. bank, Po. The citadel, founded in 1590, by Duke Vicenzo, was one of the strongest in Italy. The castle, or palace, is still standing; but the ramparts have been converted into pro menades, and the defences are now insignificant. The cathe dral is said to have been founded in 742. There are several other churches, a seminary, several convents, two hospitals, an orphan hospital, college, public library, theatre ; corn magazine, several silk spinning- mills, a parade, and public garden. The trade of the town is inconsiderable. Casale is the seat of a bishopric, and district court of justice. It was the capital of the ancient marquisate or duchy of Montferrat. In 1640, the Due d Harcourt defeated the Spaniards here. Casale was taken and retaken several times by the French and Austrians, and it formed, for a time, part of the department of Marengo in the French Republic. Pop. 21,000. The PROVINCE, area, 2224 sq. m., is hilly to the S. and W. Its products are : grain, fruit, hemp, silk, and wine. It is divided into 15 mandamento, and 73 comune. Pop. 112,000. CASAL-MAGGIORE, a tn. Austrian Italy, prov. of, and 22 m. E.S.E. Cremona, 1. bank, Po, from the inundations of which it is with difficulty protected by strong embankments, It is the seat of several courts and public offices, and has several churches, an abbey, barracks, and a custom-house, various schools and charitable institutions, a mont-de-picte, and a theatre. Its manufactures consist of earthenware, glass, and cream of tartar, some tanneries, and brandy distilleries ; and it has markets twice a week, and an annual fair, which lasts seven days. Inhabitants chiefly engaged in agriculture, particularly in cultivating the vine. Pop. 4106. CASALNO VO, two tns. Naples : 1, A tn. prov. Calabria Ultra, 9 m. N.W. Nicastro, near 1. bank, Savuto. Pop. 1610. 2, A tn. prov. Principato Citra, 14 m. N.E. Policastro, r. bank, Sele. Pop. 2500. CASALNUOVO, three tns. Naples : 1, A tn. prov. Cala bria Citra, 8 m. N.E. Cassano. Pop. 6600. 2, A tn. prov. Calabria Ultra, 31 m. N.E. Eeggio, almost entirely destroyed by the earthquake of 1783. The neighbourhood produces silk. Pop. 8241. 3, A tn., prov. of, and 6 m. N.E. Naples. Pop. 3120. CASAL-PUSTERLENGO, a tn. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 13 m. S.E. Lodi, 1. bank, Brembiolo. It is the seat of several public offices; contains a parish church and sanctuary; has manufactures of linen and silk goods, and earthenware ; and carries on a considerable trade, particularly in Parmesan cheese, which is here made in great quantities, and of the best quality. There are limekilns in the neighbourhood. Pop. 5601. CASALTRIM1TA, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Capi- tanata, dist. of, and 30 m. E.S.E. Foggia, and about 1 m. S. Lake Salpi. There are salt-works in the neighbourhood belonging to the crown. Pop. 3785. CASALVECCHIO. 1, A vil. and com. Naples, prov. Capitanata, dist. of, and 15 m. S.W. Sansevero. Great quan tities of olives are raised in the neighbourhood. Pop., greater part Albanese or Arnaouts, 1020. 2, A tn. and com. Sicily, prov. of, and 30 m. S.S.W. Messina, dist. of Castroreale. Pop. 3633. CASAMANZA, a river, Senegambia, between Cacheo and Gambia. Falls into the Atlantic ; lat. 12 34 N. ; Ion. 16 50 W. Source unknown. Off the entrance of the river there are only 4 or 5 fathoms water at the distance of 8 or 9 m. from the land. There is a French factory at its em bouchure ; another, called Berrin, 30 m. higher up ; and a third, Zinginchor, belonging to the Portuguese, 9 m. above the latter. The river is navigated by large schooners to a considerable distance beyond the farthest settlement. CASAMASSIMA 615 CASHAN CASAMASSIMA, a tn. Naples, prov. of, and 14 ra. S.S.E. Bari. It has several churches, a convent, and two abbeys. The district produces wine and almonds of good quality. Pop. 4230. CASAMICCIOLA, a tn. Naples, prov. Naples, isl. Is- chia, at the foot of Mount Epomeo, near the sea coast. It produces earthenware, and has some hot baths, which are much frequented ; and a custom-house. Good wine is pro duced in the neighbourhood. Pop. 3133. CASANARE. 1, A prov. New Grenada, dep. Boyaca; extending from the E. slope of the Andes to the Orinoco. It is very mountainous on the W. ; but the remainder is an immense plain, covered with forests and marshes, traversed by numerous rivers, rich in fine meadows, but little cultivated. The banks of the Orinoco is the only part inhabited. Pop. 12,000. 2, A river in the above prov., rising in the moun tains of Chita, and, after an E. course of about 180 m. through immense plains, nearly under the parallel of 6 N., falling into the Meta, a little E. the confluence of the Chire; lat. 5 58 N. It is navigable for small craft throughout the year. 3, A tn. on the above river; lat. 5 56 N.; Ion. 71 50 W. It has a good harbour, and 900 inhabitants, chiefly Indians. CASANDRINO, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. of and 5 m. N. city Naples. The chief employment is rearing silk worms. Pop. 2195. CASARANO, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Otranto, llm. N.N.E. Gallipoli. It contains an hospital, orphan asylum, and two convents ; and has an annual fair. Pop. 2748. CASAR-DE-CACERES, a vil. Spain, Estremaclura, prov. of, and 8 m. N. by W. Caceres ; with a Gothic church, townhall, prison, hospital, several schools, a public storehouse, and three fountains. Manufactures : linen and woollen fabrics, shoes and boots, oil and wine. Pop. 6025. CASARICHE, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 52 m. E. Seville, r. bank, Yeguas. The houses are well built ; the streets spacious. It has a small square, a church, chapel, chapter-house, prison, and two schools. Inhabitants occupied in burning charcoal, distilling brandy, expressing oil, and in husbandry ; and in trading in grain, fruits, and cattle. Pop. 2125. CASAS, several tns. Spain. Those noteworthy are : 1, Casas-de-Ves, a tn. New Castile, prov. of, and 32 m. N.E. Albacete, on the borders of Valencia, r. bank, Gabriel. It has wide and regular streets lined with substantial houses, and an extensive square containing a handsome townhall ; it also has a parish church, two schools, a prison, storehouse, and cemetery. Inhabitants engaged in weaving, currying, and husbandry ; and in trading in grain, fruits, cotton, wool, and silk. Pop. 3385. 2, Casas-Ibafiez, a tn. New Castile, 4 m. N. the former, possessing a church, townhall, prison, store house, cemetery, and two schools. Inhabitants employed in domestic weaving and tillage. Pop. 2891. 3, Casas-de- Mil- Ian, a vil. Estremadura, prov. of, and 20 m. N. by E. Caceres, r. bank, Tagns. It possesses a square, church, townhouse, school, prison, and cemetery. Woollen and silken fabrics are manufactured here, and some trade is done in grain, fruit, and pigs. Pop. 1817. (Madoz.) CASAS-GRANDES, a tn. Mexican Confederation, state Chihuahua, 35 m. S. Llanos, apparently, at one period, a place of considerable extent and importance, as the country, for some distance around it, is covered with the ruins of buildings capable of accommodating about 30,000 inhabitants. The ruins are of various kinds, comprising aqueducts, and other works. In the immediate neighbourhood of the town the soil is extremely fertile, and the verdure perpetual. Its present inhabitants, of very indifferent character, amount to about 300. CASATE-NUOVO, a vil. and com. Austrian Italy, prov. of, and 18 m. N. by E. Milan ; with a church and small con vent. Pop. 2400. CASBIN, or KAZVIN, a city, Persia, prov. Irak, 90 m. N.N.W. Teheran; lat. 36 6 N. ; Ion. 49 E. ; on a plain, and described by Southgate as the best-looking town he had seen in Persia. Many of its buildings are of kiln-burnt bricks, which gives them a livelier and more agreeable aspect than when built of those that are sun-dried. There are several spacious and well- constructed bazaars, 48 caravansaries, and 24 mosques, some of which are very elegant structures. Deserted and ruined houses are singularly numerous in the town, and its prosperity, generally, is much impeded by the scarcity of water. There are no manufactures of any conse quence ; but it has a great transit trade with Hamadan, Kesht, j Teheran, and Tabriz. Pop., nearly all Mahometans, about j 40,000. CASCADE, or PRESIDENT MOUNTAINS, a mountain-range, U. States, Oregon, running parallel to, and about 80 to 100 m. E. from the coast. It may be said to commence with Mount Baker, near the frontier of British N. America, lat. 49 N., and to terminate S. with Mount Shasti, which closes up the head of the valley of the Sacramento in California; total I length, about 550 m. N. it is separated by Eraser s river from the mountains of New Georgia, and S. by the Sacramento from the sierra Nevada. Besides Mount Baker, its highest peaks are Mounts Jefferson, Hood, St. Helena, and llaiuer, some of which are 12,000 to 14,000 ft. high. CASCAES, a small seaport tn. Portugal, prov. Estrema dura, about 6 m. N.W. the mouth of the Tagus, and 18 m. S. W. Lisbon, defended by two forts. It contains two churches, carries on some trade with the W. Indies, and has some manu factures of woollen stuffs. There are thermal springs in the vicinity. Cascaes is the birthplace of a pilot named Alphonso Sanches, who is alleged, by the Portuguese, to have been driven out to sea by a violent tempest, to have reached N. America, returned with three or four companions, sole sur vivors of the voyage, by way of Madeira, and to have left a journal, which fell into the hands of Columbus, then residing there, and furnished him with hints which ultimately led to his celebrated discovery. Pop. 2080. CASCANTE, a city, Spain, Navarre, 52 m. S. Pamplona, 7 m. S.S.W. Tudela, 1. bank, Queilcs. Its houses are toler- bly well built, and it has a spacious square, two churches, several chapels, two endowed schools, a townhouse, prison, and cemetery. In the environs is a public walk, adorned with trees. Manufactures : linen fabrics, saltpetre, brandy, oil, and wine. Trade: grain, fruits, cattle, and colonial produce. Pop. 2244. CASCIA, a tn. Papal States, deleg. of, and 12 m. E. Spoleto. Pop. 3200. CASClANA-DEi-BAGNi, a vil. Tuscany, prov. of, and 16m. S.E. Pisa, on a hill in the Val d Era. It has a parish church, and baths, which take their rise in a hill of marine tufa in the vicinity. Pop. 1152. CASCIANO, numerous small places, Tuscany, none of them deserving notice, except a vil., prov. of, and 9 m. S.S.W. Florence, on the Ema, in the vale of Arno. It contains a parish church, and manufactures coarse woollens, artificial flowers, and straw-bonnets. A good wine is raised in the neighbourhood. Pop. 1800. CASCINA, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 9 m. E.S.E. Pisa, 1. bank, Arno. It is of a quadrangular form, surrounded by walls, and has a parish church, and a castle, some silk manufactories, oil-mills, and wine presses. Pop. 2588. CASCOB, par. Eng. Hereford. Pop. 171. CASCO BAY, U. States, Maine, extending 20 m. at its entrance between Cape Elizabeth and Cape Small Point; con taining 300 small, but generally very productive, islands. It includes several smaller bays, and receives various rivers. CASELLE, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 8 m. N.N.W. Turin, on a branch of the Stura. It has two churches, a convent, an hospital, and manufactories of Indiannas, silk, and paper, besides several fulling-mills. Pop. 3500. CASERT A, or CASERTA NUOVA, a tn. Naples, cap. prov. Terra di Lavoro, in an agreeable plain, 7 m. E.S.E. Capua. It contains a royal palace, commenced, in 1752, by Charles III. of Spain, a large, elegant, and profusely ornamented structure, to which is attached gardens adorned with num erous statues, ancient aiid modern. The park, of great ex tent, is regularly planted and supplied with water from Mount Taburno, by an aqueduct 22 m. in length. The town has several churches, a convent of noble ladies, an hospital, military school, handsome public square, and spacious bar racks for the troops. In some buildings attached to the palace a silk manufactory has been established, and the products, some of which are embroidered, are reckoned equal to the best stuffs made in Europe. The district produces excellent fruit, and wine of superior quality. Pop. 5000. CASHAN. See KASIIAN. CASIIEEN 616 CASHMERE CASHEEN: 1, A bay, Ireland, co. Gal way, W. side isl. Uaromna, 8.J m. N. the Arran isls. It is easy of access, and well sheltered. 2, A river, Ireland, co. Kerry, formed by the confluence of the Feale, the Geale, and the Brick, 5.J m. AV. Listowel, and, after a sh >rt N. course, falling into the Shannon. CASHEL, a city and parl. bor. Ireland, co. Tipperary, 83 m. S.W. Dublin. It consists of one principal street, from which several others diverge irregularly, and has, on the whole, a mean and poverty-stricken appearance, although in some parts the houses are good, and one or two of the streets look clean and respectable. The supply of water is scanty, and in the summer season altogether inadequate. The cathedral and K. Catholic chapel are both modern build ings, and both spacious. The archbishop s palace is a large and handsome mansion, with extensive gardens attached, and a library containing 9000 volumes. There are also here a convent of nuns, and a Methodist meeting-house, an infirmary, market, and court-houses, a bridewell, and handsome infantry barracks, and some interesting ruins of Ilore Abbey or Grey Friars, the Dominican Abbey, and those on the celebrated rock of Cashel. This remarkable rock rises abruptly from a plain, close by the city which it overlooks ; on its summit are a series of splendid ruins, consisting of Cormac M Cullinan s chapel, built in the ninth century, a round tower 56 ft. in cir cumference, and 90 ft. in height, of unknown date, but sup posed to be the most ancient building on the rock ; a cathe dral, castle, and monastery, all built about the 12th century, CASHEL, from the North From Burtlett s Scenerj find Antiquities of Ireland, and presenting such a variety of ecclesiastical architecture, as to render them the most remarkable and interesting ruins in Irsland, an interest not a little increased by their singular an 1 conspicuous position. There are no manufactures of any c msequence in the town. It returns one member to the House of Commons; constituency (1850), 141. Pop. (1841), 7036. CASHEL AND ISLANDS, par. Irel. Longford; 22,151 ac. IVip. 5559. CASHGAR, K ASCHGAR, or K ACHKAR, a tn. and dist. of the n-Loo, of which TOWN of Cashgar is situated on a river of same name, 1 40 m. N.W. Yarkand ; lit. 39 28 N. ; Ion. 73 57 E. It is the most W. place of note in the Chinese empire, and is strongly garrisoned with troops. In the middle of the town is a large square, from which four bazaars branch off towards the gates. It has considerable manufactures of jade, gold silk, cotton, gold and Eilver cloths, and carpets ; and is also an important trading locality, the several routes which centre in it making it the emporium for the commerce of Central Asia. It came into Chinese possession by conquest nearly a century ago. Cash- gar is said to have been a commercial city before the Christian era, and was once capital of an independent kingdom. Pop. variously estimated, from 20,000 to 40,000, but some autho rities make it as high as 80,000. Chinese empire, dependency of Thian-shan-na Cashgar forms the most W. portion. The T CASHMERE, or KASHMIR, a country in N.W. Ilindoo- stan, Punjab dominions. It consists of an extensive valley of an irregular oval form, lying N. W. and S. F. 5500 ft. to 6000 ft. above the sea, and surrounded on all sides b . lofty mountains, secondary ranges of the Himalayas. As laid down on Arrow- smith s Map of the Punjab, Kashmir, &c., it is comprised be tween lat. 33 27 and 34 37 N., and Ion. 74 30 and 76 14 E. ; area estimated at 4500 sq. m. The alluvial plain in the bottom of the valley is estimated at 75 m. long, by 40 m. broad. The mountain range which encloses the valley is, on the N., called the Durawur and Kuhiama Mountains ; N.E., the Haramtik and Sonamurg Mountains; E., the snowy Pan- jal ; S., the Futi Panjal and Panjal of P.anihal ; and W., the Pir Panjal. Excepting for a fifth part of the circumference S.W. of the capital Serinagur, their summits appear to be covered with perpetual snow. The highest peak seems to be the Pir Panjal, 15,000 ft. high, on the S.W. boundary of the valley; and on the N.E. the llaramuk is 13,000 ft. The mountains generally appear to be of basaltic formation, pre senting at times beautiful amygdaloidal trap; in the N.W. schistous rocks, penetrated by quartz veins, rise to the height of 500 or 1000 ft.; and N.W. of these gypsum appears. Primary rocks are rare, and though granite blocks are some times met with, that rock has not been found in situ. Pebbly conglomerate, sandstone, and clay, overspread large spaces on the lower slopes of the mountains. Earthquakes occur. In 1828, about 200 shocks were felt, and in June of that year, 1200 houses were destroyed, and 1000 persons killed in Serinagur. Some have supposed the val ley to have formed the crater of a volcano ; at all events, it has evidently once been the bed of a sea, as is shown by the great beds of limestone, con taining marine fossils. Iron has been found abun dantly, embedded in the limestone ; lead is worked, and copper is known to exist in the valley. Plum bago abounds in the Pir Panjal ; excellent limestone exists in inexhaustible quantities, some of it in the form of fine black marble. The valley is entered by numerous passes, 11 of which are said to be practi cable for horses, but none of them for wheeled car riages. The most important are the Baramula and Punch, on the W. frontier, the latter 8500 ft. high; Banihal on the S., 9690ft. ; and Nabog on the E., all practicable at all seasons of the year. The Pir Panjal Pass is 12,500 ft. high ; and the Bundipur, leading to Iskardo, is 11,271 ft. Cashmere is watered by the Jailum or Behut, which, rising in the mountains of the S.E. frontier, flows N.W. through the centre of the valley, receiving numer ous streams from both sides, and expands into lake Wuller, which is also the recipient of several other streams. From the S.W. end of this lake the river emerges, pursues a W. by S. course, and leaves the valley, of which it is the sole drain, by the Baramula Pass. The channel of the Jailum is very winding, and the river is navigable for boats of considerable burden, from near Isla mabad to its exit from the valley. The principal lakes are the Dal or City Lnke, close by the capital, 6 m. long by 4 broad ; the Manasa Bui, small, but said to be deep ; and the Great Wuller Lake, which is merely a shallow expansion of the Jailum, 20 m. long by 9 broad. Besides these, which are on the r. bank, the smaller lakes, Opun and Wusikara, are on the 1. bank, and there are numerous small pieces of water in the mountains. The whole of the valley is thus most per fectly watered, and admirably supplied with the means of irrigation. The climate, though subject to extremes of temperature, is, on the whole, salubrious. In consequence of the great eleva tion of Cashmere, the cold of winter is rather severe. Night frosts set in about the middle of November, and early in De cember snow begins to fall, covering the ground to a depth of 2 ft., and clothing the surrounding mountains in a dazz ling whiteness, but the Jailum is seldom frozen over. The hottest season is from the middle of July to the middle of August, when a peculiar stillness, for which the air of Cash mere is remarkable, renders the heat greater to the sense than it really is, the thermometer ranging, at noon, from 80 to 85 in the shade. fiain falls plentifully in spring and the be ginning of summer. The soil is, in general, exceedingly fertile. CASHMERE 617 CASPIAN SEA Rice is the principal crop, the returns being from 30 to 40 fold, and in favourable seasons, as high as 50 or 60. Wheat, bar ley, millet, and maize, are also cultivated, but are a precari ous crop, in consequence of the scanty rains in summer. Buckwheat is extensively cultivated. Cucumbers and melons are raised in small artificial floating gardens on the City Lake. Tobacco is also cultivated, but to a very limited extent ; cot ton more largely. Great quantities of saffron, of excellent quality, is grown, and most of it exported. Grapes are cul tivated, but with indifferent success. Esculent vegetables are produced in great variety and abundance, including kidney- bean, turnip, cabbage, beet-root, radish, capiscum, &c. Amongst the natural productions, the most valuable is the Sinyliara or water- nut, the seed of Trapa bispinosa, on which a large portion of the poorer inhabitants almost wholly sub sist. It grows in the Wulur Lake, from which about 60,000 tons are annually taken. The nuts are eaten raw, boiled, roasted, or ground into flour, and made into gruel, and, though insipid, are extremely nutritious. The principal fruits are apples, pears, plums, cherries, aprierots, &c. Amongst the finest trees of Cashmere are the deodar or Himalayan cedar (Cedrus deodara), the chunar (Platanus orientalis), the poplar, and the lime, all of which abound, and attain a great size and luxuriance, and the wild chestnut-tree, growing to a size far exceeding that of the European variety, some measuring 100 ft. from the ground to the parting of the branches. Maple, willow, and white thorn, are common, and on the steep declivities of the mountains, birch, alder, and various kinds of pine. Flowers of various kinds, and of surpassing beauty, grow everywhere in vast profusion, especially roses, which are carefully cultivated for the sake of the attar ex tracted from them. The wild animals are bears, brown and black ; a sort of leopard, of a white colour with small black spots ; jackals, foxes, otters, stags, gazelles, the ibex, wild goats, musk, and other species of deer, squirrels and marmots, but no hares. Birds of prey are numerous, including various species of vul tures, one of them said to be the largest in the world, and so unwieldy, that it is often killed before it can rise from the ground ; the other kinds are eagles, hawks, and falcons. There are also various kinds, and vast numbers of geese, ducks, divers, baldcoots, snipes, woodcocks, and small pelicans ; pea cocks, pheasants, and partridges. The smaller kinds of birds are numerous, including the bulbul or nightingale, which, however, is a distinct species from the European one, to which it is also greatly inferior in song ; venomous reptiles, rare. The waters abound in fish, including a species called shiruh, which often attains the weight of 24 Ibs., is firm in the flesh, and of fine flavour. The horses are small, and altogether of an inferior description, though said by Iliigel to be lively, hardy, and tractable. Black cattle, sheep, and goats, are nu merous ; the breed of the black cattle is small, but they give abundance of milk ; the mutton is said to be well flavoured. Cashmere has been long celebrated for its shawls. The wool used in their manufacture is of two kinds, one obtained from the tame, the other from the wild goat, wild sheep, and other wild animals. It is the fine down growing next to the skin alone that is taken, the long hairs being all picked out by the hand. Three weavers are employed on an embroidered shawl, of an ordinary pattern, for three months ; but a very rich pair will occupy a shop for 18 months. They are dyed in the yarn, and carefully washed with rice flour instead of soap, after the weaving has been finished. The embroidered border of the finest shawl is generally made separately, and joined skilfully by sewing to the field or middle part, which sometimes consists of as many as 15 different pieces, neatly joined. The first cost of a pair of fine shawls has been esti mated at 200, that is, for labour, materials, dyeing, duty, and other charges. The demand for the shawls of Cashmere has, from various causes, greatly fallen off of late years, and is still on the wane. Cashmere has long been nearly as famous for its gun and pistol barrels as for its shawls. The artizans employ extraordinary pains in fabricating them, and pro duce work of singular beauty and excellence. Paper, and leather for saddlery, are also manufactured, both of superior quality; the paper is said to be the finest made in India. Lacquered ware, of the most beautiful description and nicest workmanship, is likewise amongst the products of Cashmere ; and the lapidaries excel in taste and skill those of Europe ; VOL. 1. the attar of roses made in the valley is considered superior to any other. The total amount of the exports of Cashmere has been es timated at 400,000, and the imports at 50,000. Of the former, the principal articles are woollens and rice ; of the latter, shawl wool. The greater part of the population are Mahometans. In physical qualities, the natives of Cashmere excel all other branches of the great Indian nation, being tall, robust, and handsomely formed. In disposition they are lively, witty, and good humoured, but addicted to all the vices common to the other tribes of India. They are selfish, intriguing, dis honest, and false. The language is a dialect of Sanscrit, con taining a large admixture of Persian, in which the records and correspondence of Government are written. The pro nunciation of the natives is broad, coarse, and uncouth. The dress of both sexes consists of a long loose wrapper and trow- sers, the former of woollen cloth. In cold weather both sexes carry a little wicker basket, containing a small iron or earth enware vessel holding lighted charcoal, and called a kangri, which they apply to such parts of the body as require to be warmed. Cashmere contains 10 towns, and 2200 villages; the chief towns are Cashmere or Serinagur, the capital ; Chu- pinian, Islamabad, and Pampur. In 1586, Cashmere was subjugated by the Emperor Akbar, and was incorporated in his empire. The Afghans vanquished it in 1752, and it re mained under their sway till 1819, when it was conquered by the Sikhs, and since that time it has continued under the dominion of the Maharajah of the Punjab. Pop. about 200,000, to which number it has been reduced in 20 years from 800,000, by earthquakes, pestilence, and famine. (Hiigel, Vigne, Moorcroft, &c.) CASHMERE, tn. See SERINAGUR. CASHNA, a tn. Nigritia. See KASIIXA. CASKETS, a dangerous group of rocks, English Channel, about 7 m. W. Alderney, on the highest of which is a light house ; lat. 49 43 24" N. ; Ion. 2 22 30" W. (R.) The Victor;/, a ship of 110 guns, foundered off these rocks in 1744. CASOLE, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 18 m. W. by N. Siena, on an elevated plain. It is surrounded by walls, commanded by a fortress, and contains a fine collegiate church, and a handsome palace. Pop. 1293. CASOLI, a tn. Naples, prov, Abruzzo Citra, 10 m. S.W. Lanciano, with several churches, and two normal schools. Pop. 5858. CASORATE, a tn. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 11 m. N.W. Pavia. It is tolerably well built, and contains a church, in which some fine pictures and frescoes are preserved. In 1239, the Milanese, commanded by Lod- rizio Visconti, gained a decisive victory here over the Ger mans, under the Margrave d Augsburg. Pop. 4300. CASORIA, a tn. Naples, 6 m. N.N.E. Naples. It has four fine churches, and is the residence of a district judge. Silk is produced in the neighbourhood. Pietro Martino, the painter, was born here. Pop. 7924. CASPE, a tn. Spain, Aragon, prov. Saragossa, 12 m. N.N.E. Alcaniz, 1. bank, Guatlalupe, near its confluence with the Ebro, on several small hills and in the intervening val leys. It has paved streets, one principal and nine smaller squares, a handsome Gothic collegiate and two other churches, several chapels, three schools, a townhall and prison in a suppressed convent ; an hospital, and several public fountains. Manufactures : wine, oil, and soap, and some trade is also carried on in grain and cattle. Two annual fairs are held. Pop. 7500. CASPIAN SEA [anc. Mare Caspium, or ITi/rcanmm], a large inland sea, lying for the most part between Europe and Asia, more precisely between lat. 36 55 and 47 30 N. ; and Ion. 46 48 and 55 25 E. Greatest length from N. to S., 730m.; greatest breadth S. part about lat. 45 N., 270 m. ; narrowest part between Cape Apsheron in Europe, and Cape Tarta in Asia, 150 m. Bounded N. and W. by Russia and Persia, E. by the Kirghez steppe and Khiva, and S. by Persia. Area 140,000 sq. m., draining, in Europe alone, an extent of 850,000 sq. m. Although, at some points, the Cas pian attains a considerable depth, Hanway having in one place found no bottom at 480 fathoms, it is remarkable for its shal- lowness generally, especially alongst its shores, where it seldom exceeds 3 ft. for a distance of 100 yards from the CASPIAN SEA 618 CASS land. Its E. and W. coasts, particularly the former, are deeply indented with bays and gulfs, while the S. shores are almost unbroken. The principal bays on the Asiatic side are Kmba Hay, Mersa Bay, Dead Bay, Black Lake Bay, Mangish- Jak Gulf, Beklirlishal Bay, KenderlinskGulf. Khara Bughaz Gulf, and Balkan Bay. On the opposite, or European side, occur the gulfs of Zizil Agatch and Kuina, with several less marked indentations. The only one on the S. coast is Aster- abad Bay, if the inlet of Enzeli, which has only four feet water, be excluded. The Caspian contains numerous islands, but not many of any great extent. The largest are on the Asiatic side, the greatest number on the European, particularly about the mouths of the Volga, and along the coasts to the N.E. and S.W. of them, where they lie closely crowded together in countless numbers, most of them, however, being mere islets. The waters of the Caspian are salt, but not nearly so much so as those of the ocean. It has no tides, and no outlets, its superfluous waters being carried off solely by evaporation. In the region of the Volga, including the territory from that river, S.E. to the Emba, and S.W. to the 1. bank of the Sulak, the whole seabord is composed of recent alluvium, deposited by the several streams. From S. of the Sulak to Apsheron, the coast is of upper tertiary formation, broken into at some points by carboniferous strata. iS. from Apsheron, and round the S. extremity of the sea, the coast is low and sandy backed at some distance by lofty hills. The E. and S.E. coasts have generally a cretaceous subsoil, overspread by moving sand, and are generally flat; Cape Karagan, formed by mountains of the same name, being an exception. Sturgeons and sterlets are caught in the Caspian in great quantities; and there are also salmon-trout, perch (Perca asper], Silurus glanis, two kinds of carp, and porpoises. Seals abound in the upper coasts, and tortoises between the mouths of the Volga and the Ural. The molluscs are few, said to be only four Cardium rusticum, Cardium triquetrum, Mya cdentula, and Jlytilus polymorphus. The chief fishery for sturgeon is at and near Astrakhan ; in and about the river Emba it comprehends 310 m. of coast, from the mouth of the Ural to the gulf called Mertvoi-koultouk. The island of Tchetchenzc, near the gulf of Agrakhan, and not far from the cape of that name, contains a large establishment for smoking, drying, and salting fish. In the surrounding waters the fish ing is continued all the year. It is not so in the N. region, where the first or caviar season, as it is called, occurs between March and May, when the Volga, Ural, &c., are getting cleared of ice. The second season occurs in July, when the I sturgeon descends the rivers ; and the third, or open sea fish- i ing, goes on from September to November. During the winter, the N. fishermen often venture on the ice many miles from land, in quest of sturgeon, silures, and seals. But, in general, it is reckoned unfair to kill seals before the 13th of April. Besides the foregoing, there are fisheries between Salian, Siphitouriusk, and Astrabad. Many thousand persons are employed in the Russian upper Caspian fisheries ; and the annual amount of caviar or female roes obtained may be taken at 800,000 Ibs., besides 20,000 Ibs. of isinglass, the produce of upwards of 700,000 sturgeons, of various kinds, large and small. The number of seals annually taken is nearly 100,000. The only ports at all worthy the name, on or near the Caspian, are Astrakhan, Bakou, Salian, and Astrabad. The navigation is at all times difficult, and often perilous. Steam- packets on it have recently been established. The Russian fleet in the Caspian consists of 1 3 vessels, of which four are brigs, and two are steamers. The basin of the Caspian is most extensive on the N. and "W., from which it receives the Ural, the Volga, the Terek, the Kur, and numerous other streams of less note. By means of a canal cut near Tver in Russia, between the head streams of the Volga, and the rivers Tvertza and Schlina, water com munication is established between the Caspian and the Baltic. S. the basin of the sea is limited by the Elburz mountains, and E. the sandy wastes of Khiva send to it only short streams, and of no great volume ; though on this side it evidently at one time received the Oxus or Amoo, now an affluent of the sea of Aral. Indeed, the Caspian and Lake Aral were, doubt less, at one period united. They are apparently on the same level; and, though the plateau of Ust-L rt (see ARAL) might at first sight appear to present an insuperable obstacle to the idea of a junction ever having existed, yet S. of that plateau, and in the course which the Oxus probably followed, is a low tract leading into the head of what at one time was the estuary of the Oxus, but now is a sandy waste, E. and S. of Kara-Bughaz gulf, which formed its termination. Both lakes belong to the great depression of W. Asia a depression at one time supposed to be much greater than it U believed to be now ; though whether a rise in the land has taken place, it is difficult to determine. The exact amount of the depression bus not yet been satisfactorily settled the most trustworthy data we possess being at variance. The last two levelling:) between the Caspian and the Black Sea, both trigonometrical, were executed, the one in 1837, by Messrs. Fuss, Sabler, and Sawitch, under the auspices of the Academic Imperiale de St. Petersburg; and the other in 1838-9, by M. Hommaire de Hell. According to the former measurement, the Caspian is 81-4 ft. below the level of the Black Sea; but, according to the latter, it is only 11-6 metres, about 38:} ft. Should the lat ter measurement be ultimately found to be correct, what has hitherto been supposed to be the depression of W. Asia, may turn out to be actually above the level of the ocean. The sanding up of streams lessening the accession of water, and contracting the shores, with the great evaporation constantly going on, in addition to other causes in operation, are gradu ally reducing the size of this inland sea. It has been supposed to increase and decrease in size, at certain times ; but this phenomena is now believed to be explained by tiie fact, that strong winds beating for any length of time upon the flat shore, sometimes drive the waters up over a great extent of land. M. Hommaire de Hell alleges that a rise of even 10 ft. would flood the steppes of the Kuma for a vast distance be yond the route between Astrakhan and the Terek, and sub merge every post house and military station on the line. It may consequently be taken for granted that no such rise haa taken place, at all events since the beginning of last century, when the first Russian settlements in these regions were established, otherwise we should have had authentic records of such a visitation. The notices of early commerce upon or by way of the Caspian, are few and uncertain. Even for several centuries after the Christian era, its authentic trading records are nearly a blank. The chief portion of the commerce between W. Europe and India was carried on partly by its waters, about the middle of the 13th century, Astrakhan, on the upper Caspian, and Soldaia, nearly in the same latitude, on the Black Sea, forming the chief entrepots till 1280, when the latter was superseded, through the exertions of the Genoese, for their own establishment at Kaffa ; which then became the transit station for the Asiatic-European trade, and so con tinued till 1453, when the Turks, having seized Constan tinople, and barred the Bosphorus, the accustomed trade was forced into other channels, and the Caspian deserted, except by the few vessels which carried on a small local trade between Muscovy, Persia, and Central Asia. About 1560, an English trading company endeavoured to open up connections, by way of the Caspian, with Persia and Turcomania, but with no good results. From that time till late in the 17th century, the annals of navigation give few notices of this sea. At the latter period Peter the Great, Sartly in the hope of diverting the Indian trade into the irection of his S. dominions, caused the coasts of the Caspian to be explored by Dutch navigators in his pay. His inten tion was, as one means to his end, to found trading stations on ground ceded by treaty or taken by force, on the Persian seabord. But this he delayed to do; and when he died, his project lay dormant, and the Russians made no encroachment beyond what Peter had already effected, till the reign of Catherine II., whose conquests in its S. region were not secured till our own times. (Hommaire de Hell, Steppes de la mer Caspienne; Zimmerman, Denkschrift iiber den untern Laufdcs Oxus, etc.) CASS, several places, U. States: 1, co. Indiana; area, 415 sq. m. The general face of the country is level, and abounds with springs of excellent water. Pop. 5480. 2, co, Georgia. Pop. 9390, of which 1195 are slaves. 3, co. Michigan; area, 528 sq. m. The surface gently undulating, and the soil of superior quality. Pop. 5710. 4, co. Illinois; area, 256 sq. in. Top. 29S1 5, A river, Michigan, an CASSAEA 619 CASSEL affluent of the Sagina, which falls into ?agana Bay, on Lake Huron. 6, A lake, formed by an expansion of the upper Mis sissippi, in the N.W. or Huron territory; lat. 47 30 N. ; Ion. 95 W., 130 m. N.W. Lake Superior. CASSABA, two tns. Asiatic Turkey:!, A tn., pash. Anatolia, 30 m. N.E. Smyrna, on the caravan route from the interior of the country to that city; lat. 38 31 N.; Ion. 27 40 E. ; contains two handsome mosques and a bazaar; streets dirty and ill kept ; has some cotton manufactures, and is celebrated for pears and melons. 2, A tn., pash. Kara- mania, sanjak of, and 52 m. S.S.E. Koniyeh, at the base of the Allah Dagh mountains; lat. 37 12 N.; Ion. 33 9 E. It was formerly a place of some importance, but has fallen into decay. CAS8ANGE, a territory of W. Africa, N. Angola, near lat. 10 S., and intersected by Ion. 20 E. It is inhabited by warlike nomades, who have occasionally threatened the Por tuguese settlements in their neighbourhood. CASSANO, three tns. Naples:!, A tn., prov. Calabria Oitva, 32 m. N.N.E. Cosenza; on a plain. It is the seat of a bishopric, and has a cathedral, four convents, a seminary, an hospital, and an old and almost inaccessible castle. The district produces cotton, liquorice, grain, fruit, silk, and soda ; and the inhabitants manufacture maccaroni, leather, and table- linen. In the vicinity are hot sulphurous springs, and plaster nnd stone quarries. Pop. 6000. 2, A tn., prov. Principato Ultra, 8 m. S.W. St. Angelo de Lombard!, on a hill, washed by the Galore. It has a handsome church, an hospital, two charitable institutions, and a paper manufactory. Pop. 4629. 3, A tn., prov. Bari, 12 m. N.E. Altamura; with a parish church, a convent, hospital, three charitable institutions, and two manufactories of copper utensils. Pop. 4713. CASSANO-D 1 ADDA, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. of, and 16 m. N.E. Milan; pleasantly situated on a hill, r. bank, Adda. It is very old, and built mostly of bricks. A bridge of 800 paces connects it with the opposite bank of the river. There are here numerous silk-mills. Cassano is famous for the victory gained here on August 16, 1705, by the French, under the Duke of Vendome, over the Imperials under Prince Eugene ; and for the defeat sustained on April 25, 1799, by the French under Moreau, from the Austrians and Russians under Suwarow. Pop. 1125. Two other places in Lombarily have the name of CASSAXO. CASSAY, or KATHEE, a prov. India, be yond the Ganges, between lat. 23 3W and 25 20 N., and Ion. 93 and 95 E., bounded N. by Assam, E. and S. Burmah, and W. Cachar. It conlains an extensive valley, 30 m. long by 10 I road, covered with grass, jungle, and swamps ; but the country generally is moun tainous, having elevations of from 4000 to upwards of 8000 ft. Some parts of the lowtr districts are fertile, yielding good crops of rice, tobacco, indigo, cotton, sugar, opium, and mustard. It is celebrated, also, for its breed of horses. Numerous rivers, some of them of considerable size, intersect the province; the largest are the Barak, Impal Toorool, and Kyen-dwen, the last two affluents of the Ira- wadi. Cassay is an independent province, and is governed by a hereditary Rajah. The principal town is Muneepoor or Munipoor, which name is sometimes applied also to the entire province. It was formerly tributary to Burmah, but at the conclusion of the war between that state and the E. India Company Cassay obtained its freedom. CASSEL [anc. Castellum Menajnorum], a tn. France, dep. Nord ; on an isolated, conical hill, in the middle of a rich and extensive plain, 16 m. S. Dunkirk, on the railway thence to Lille. The streets are clean, and provided with fountains; the houses well built of brick, and in general having gardens attached. Lace, linen, hats, stockings, soap, and pottery, are manufactured here. There are also several oil-mills, bleach- fields, breweries, and tanneries, and a considerable trade in agricultural produce. This town is of great antiquity, and two of them attributed to the Romans. The view from Mount Cassel is one of the mo?t extensive in Europe. Jt extends over the plains of Flanders, and as far as the whita cliff s of England, and takes in 32 towns and 100 villages. This hill was one of the principal signal stations of the great trigonometrical survey for measuring an arc of the meridian. Pop. 2839. CASSEL, or KASSEL [anc. Castellum Cattorum], a tn. Germany, prov. Lower Hesse, cap. of Hesse Cassel, and of circle of same name ; beautifully situated on both banks of the Fulda, 91 m. N.N.E. Frankfort-on-the-Main. It is divided into the Altstadt or Old Town, the Upper Neustadt or Upper New Town, the Lower Neustadt or Lower Ne\r Town ; with the Wilhelmshb he and Frankfort suburb, 1. bank of the river, and Leipzig suburb, r. bank. The two portions of the town are connected by a stone bridge of three arche?, across the Fulda, 258 ft. in length. The old town lies low down close to the river banks, and consists of narrow and dirty streets ; while the new part, built upon an elevation formerly occupied by a fortress, is airy and agreeable; tho streets spacious and well laid out, and the houses handsome. The Upper New Town contains a number of squares, in tho principal of which, the Friedrich s Platz, the largest in any town in Germany, stands the Elector s palace, an indifferent structure; and next to it, the museum, the handsomest build ing in the town, containing a library with 100,000 volumes, and many valuable MSS. Within the same edifice are a collec tion of antiquities, many of them rare objects of art and verity including some interesting Roman remains found in Hessa Cassel ; coins, prints, and models, and a picture gallery, con taining 1400 pictures, among which are some by Rubens, Rembrandt, Vandyke, Terburg, &c. This square is lined on three sides by a double row of lime trees, and in the centre is a colossal marble statue of Frederick II. The other more noticeable public areas are King s Platz, in the form of a crescent, and remarkable for possessing a sixfold echo ; Charles s Platz, in which is a statue of the Landgrave Charles ; and William s Square. In the Old town are the old townhall, the Government buildings, the Stadtau, appropriated to public is said to have been the capital of a district in the time Julius Caesar. In 1071 it was surrounded by thick walls bastions, of which there are few remains, except three gates, ST. MAHTIN-S CHURCH AND GOVERNMENT-PLACE. CASSEL. From Lan 8 e, AnaichU-n von Deutschland. amusements; St. Martin s church, with the catacombs be neath it, in which the remains of the Sovereigns of Hesse Cassel are deposited ; the Lutheran, the Brethren s, and the garrison churches; a synagogue, an orphan hospital and asylum, an arsenal, foundry for cannon, and a house of cor rection. In the Upper New Town there are, besides the buildings spoken of above, the mint, a cadet academy, lyceum, a normal and civic school, a theatre, the New Town and It. Catholic churches, an hospital, and an infirmary. .Tha Lower New Town contains an ancient fortress, now used as a of state-prison; the Lower New Town church, a Protestant .nd orphan asylum, infirmary, lying-in hospital, house of correc tion, and common prison. In the Leipzig suburb are an UASSEX 620 CASTEL- FRANCO hospital and infirmary ; in the Frankfort suburb a house of industry; and in the Wilhelmshohe suburb a large hospital. Casscl has, altogether, eight churches seven Lutheran, and one synagogue, with a Jewish theoretical and practical school. It has also academies for painting, sculpture, &c., an observa tory, and several associations for the promotion of trade, agriculture, and manufactures. Its trade is inconsiderable, but is improving. It has manufactures of cottons, silk, and woollen fabrics, kid gloves, leather, hats, carpets, porcelain, musical instruments, dyes, playing cards, soap, gold and silver lace, earthenware, lacquered wares, linen, damask, starch, hardware, &c. Cassel is partly walled, and has 11 large and small gates. It has two fairs, and a wool-market, annually. There are many fine walks and public gardens in the vicinity; amongst the latter are the gardens of Wilhelmshohe, in which is situated the Elector s summer palace. Cassel is connected by railway with Leipzig and Frankfort-on-the-Main. Pop. of tn. 32,516; of circle, G6,479. CASSEN, or KASSAN, a tn., E. Africa, territory Dertat, a mountainous and woody country lying immediately S. of Kubia, and W. of the S.W. portion of Abyssinia, 1. bank, Tumat. CASSINE, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 14 m. S.W. Alessandria, near 1. bank, Bormida. It has three churches and three convents. Pop. 3500. CASSINGTON, par. Eng. Oxford ; 2990 ac. Pop. 381. CASSIQUIAR1, or CASSIQUIARE, a deep, rapid river, S. America, Venezuela, forming the S. bifurcation of the Orinoco, by which that river has navigable communication with the Rio Negro. It leaves the Orinoco in lat. 3 10 N. ; Ion. 66 20 W., about 20 m. W. Esmerelda, and, after a S.W. course of 128 m., falls into the Rio Nogro near San Carlos, in lat. 2 5 N. ; Ion. 67 40 W. It is 100 yards broad where it leaves the Orinoco, and about 600 yards at its junction with the Rio Negro ; flows 566 ft. per second, and, between Es merelda and San Carlos, falls 320 ft. By means of this river, water communication is established for canoes over an im niense tract of S. America, it being practicable to sail from the interior of Brazil to the Caraccas in Venezuela, through the Amazon, the Orinoco, and their affluents. CASSIS, a seaport tn. France, dep. Bouches-du-Rhone, 9m. S. E. Marseille, on the Mediterranean; lat. 43 12 48" N.; Ion. 5 32 E. (it.) The houses are neat and elegant ; in the square is a handsome fountain. The port, defended by a long mole, affords good shelter, but is of difficult access in bad weather. Left of the entrance is a fixed light, 92 ft. above sea-level, and visible at 7 m. distance. Several batteries pro tect the harbour and roadstead, and there are building-yards for small vessels. The vicinity produces olives, figs, capers, highly-esteemed Muscatel wine, and pomegranates, in which a good coasting trade is carried ou. Lime and building stone are also exported. Coral is fished in the vicinity. Abbe Barthelemy, author of the Voyage d AnacJiarsis, was born here. Pop. 1506. CASTAGNA, a tn. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra I., 15 m. N.W. Civita di-Penne, on the Maone, with important fairs. Pop. 1255. CASTAGXARO, a vil. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, 6 m. S.E. Verona, r. bank, Adige, at the head of the canal of its name, which unites with the Canal Bianco. Pop. I 800. CASTALLA, a tn. Spain, Valencia, prov. of, and 24 m. N.W. Alicante, at the base of a conical and isolated hill, sur mounted by an ancient and decayed castle. It is divided into two portions, the old and new. The former occupies the upper part of the hill, contiguous to the castle, and is com posed of narrow, steep, and inconvenient streets and lanes. The modern erections are situate at the foot of the slope, and consist of four squares, and clean, wide, and well-paved streets. The whole contains two churches, several convents, a large and handsome townhall, a court-house, two schools, a prison, hospital, cemetery, and two public fountains. Wine and oil are manufactured ; trade inconsiderable. Pop. 3032. CASTAMBL L, CASTAMBOOL, or KASTAJIUM, a tn. Asia tic Turkey, pash. Anatolia, 100 in. N.N.E. Angora; lat. 41 21 N. ; Ion. 33 50 E. ; in a valley, on the W. bounded by hills, on a spur of which stands the ruins of an ancient castle. The houses are of two stories, in general ill built of wood; the streets are narrow and dirty, and a deep kennel, into which all the filth of the town is collected, runs through its very centre. It has no public buildings deserving of notice, but has numerous mosques and baths, a Greek church, and tolerable new barracks. The chief manufacture is printed cottons, for which there are said to be 32 printing houses, having from four to eight presses each ; also 22 dyeing-houses, of which six are for red, and 16 for blue, dyes. The chief trade is in wool, that of the neighbourhood being considered little inferior to the celebrated wool of Angora. Pop. esti mated by Ainsworth at 48,000. (Loiul. Geo. Jour.) CASTAXO, or CASTENO, a vil. and com. Austrian Italy, prov. of, and 18 m. \V.N. W. Milan, in a pleasant and fertile plain, between the Ticino and the Grand Canal. It contains a parish and two auxiliary churches. Pop. 2069. CASTEL, a fortified tn. Hesse-Darmstadt, r. bank, Rhine, opposite Mentz, with which it is connected by a bridge of boats ; and a station on the Taunus Railway from Frankfort to Wiesbaden. Around it the vine is cultivated. Pop. 2500. CASTEL-A-MAKE [castle by the sea] : 1, A seaport tn. Naples, prov. of, on the gulf of, and 17 in. S.E. the city of Naples; lat. 40 41 30" N. ; Ion. 14 28 15" E. (R.) It is fortified, has a small mole, like a hook, running out N.E., is the seat of a bishopric, contains a royal palace, a cathedral, five churches, several convents, a military hospital, good bar racks, and a tolerable dockyard ; has several manufactories of linen, silk, and cotton fabrics, besides tanneries; has a N. exposure, and is much frequented during summer, chiefly on account of its hot baths. The environs are celebrated for their beauty and fertility, but in autumn the situation is damp, chill, and disagreeable. Castel-a-mare occupies the site of the ancient Stiibice, destroyed by Sylla during the civil wars. It was overwhelmed, with llerculaneum and Pompeii, by an eruption of Vesuvius, A.D. 79; and it was here that the elder Pliny met his death, by approaching too near to the burning mountain, when in a state of violent commotion. The modern town was afterwards built from the ruins of Stabiae. Pop. 18,452. 2, A seaport tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 20 m. E. Trapaui, on the gulf of same name ; lat. 38 1 N. ; Ion. 12 53 E. It lies low, in a fertile district, and is dirty. Wine, fruit, grain, manna, oil, flax, sumach, and anchovies are ex ported in considerable quantities. Pop. 8034. The GULF is about 15 m. E. to W., at its mouth, contracting, in a semi circular manner, on either side, to about 6 m. ; it is about 14 m. N. to S. It has deep water and good anchorage near its shores, but is not safe in N. winds, to which it is much exposed. CASTEL -AKQUATO, a tn. and com. Duchy Parma, and 19 m. S.E. Piacenza, 1. bank, Larda, here crossed by a brick bridge. It contains a fine Gothic church, a handsome townhall, an hospital, cavalry barracks, medical and other schools, a public promenade, adorned with a central fountain ; and the ancient and vast castle from which the town derives its name. The environs are hilly, picturesque, and abound with forests, vineyards, and olive plantations. Silk-worms are reared, and much silk manufactured here. Pop. 4393. CASTEL-BALno, a vil. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, 28 m. S.W. Padua, 1. bank, Adige. It contains a parish church and three oratories. Pop. 1980. CASTEL-DEL-riAxo, a tn. and com. Tuscany, cap. prov. of, and 28 m. N.E. Grosscto, W. side of Mount Amiala. It is well built, and possesses a large square, two churches, and two fine fountains, and is the seat of a central criminal court. Pop. 2555. CASTEL-m-FKANCi, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Prin- cipata Ultra, 7 m. W. S. Angelo de Lombard!, r. bank, Calore. Pop. 2105. CASTEL-Di-SANGRO, a tn. and com. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra II., 21 m. S.S.E. Sulmona, on the side of a hill, bathed by the Sangro. It contains three handsome churches, two convents, an hospital, and almshouse. Manufactures carpets, and has two annual fairs. Pop. 3090. CASTEL-FiouENTiNO, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 18 m. S.W. Florence, on a rising ground, near r. bank, Elsa, here crossed by a stone bridge. It is well built, de fended by a castle, and has two fine churches, one of which is collegiate. Pop. 2943. CASTEL-FKANCo, several places, Italy, particularly: 1, A tn. Papal States, deleg. Bologna, and 8 m. E. Modena. It is a frontier station and custom-house of the States, and is supposed to occupy the site of the Forum Gallorum, famous CASTEL-GANDOLFO 621 CASTELLETTO for the victory which Hirtius and Pansa gained over Mark Antony. In the neighbourhood is a fort, built, on a com manding position, by Pope Urban VIII., but now falling to ruin. 2, A tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, prov. Treviso, in an extensive plain, watered by the Murone, 25 m. N.W. Venice. It is the seat of several public offices, contains three parish and two auxiliary churches, a handsome palace, poor- house, &c., and has some linen and woollen manufactures. Pop. 6500. 3, A vil. and com. Naples, prov. Capitanata, 12 in. W.N.W. Bovino. In the neighbourhood, flints and gyp sum are quarried. Pop. 3092. 4, Castcl-franco-di-8otte, a tn. grand duchy Tuscany, prov. of, and 26 m. W. Florence, r. bank, Arno. It has manufactures of hemp, flax, and earth enware. Pop. 3077. CASTEL-GANDOLFO, a vil. Papal States, 11 m. S.E. Koine, on a hill, near W. shore, Lake Albano. It is remark able for the fine views which it commands ; and contains the Pope s summer residence, which forms a conspicuous object from any part of the lake below. It stands on a volcanic peak, 1350 ft. above the Mediterranean, and 450 ft. above the lake. Pop. 1000. CASTEL-GOFFREDO, a tn. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, prov. of, and 19m. N.W. Mantua. It is walled, contains three handsome churches, and has some silk-mills and manufactures. Pop. 3463. CAbTEL-GOMBERTO, a vil. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, prov. of, and 8 m. N. Vicenza, near the Brogliano. It con- taius a parish church and three oratories, and has an annual fair. Pop. 2100. CASTEL-GRANDE, a tn. and com. Naples, prov. Basi- licata, 15m. S.S.W. Melfi. It has several important fairs. Pop. 3363. CASTEL-GUGLiELMO, & sinistra and a destra, two vils. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, 12 m. W.S.W. Rovigo. They form a parish; and have a parish church, three oratories, and an old castle. Pop. 2500. CASTEL-JALOUX [anc. Castrum Gelosium], a tn. France, dep. Lot-et-Garonne, 1. bank, Avance, 28 m. W.N.W. Agen ; a neat place, well built, and agreeably situate in one of the oases of the sandy desert of the Landes. Manufac tures : coarse cloth, paper, and glass ; and has tanneries, blast furnaces, iron and copper works, and a saw-mill. Trade: in grain, wine, wax, honey, tar, resin, large quantities of chest nuts, oak bark, cork, and leeches. There is a mineral spring here. The castle, built by the Seigneurs d Albret, to which the town owes its name, is in ruins. Pop. 1643. CASTEL-LEOXE [formerly Castd-Manfrcdi\, a walled tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 12 m. N.W. by N. Cremona, near the Oglio. It is irregularly built, surrounded by old walls, and has a fine church. Pop. 5712. CASTEL-Nuovo, or Novo, a tn. and com. Austria, Dal- matia, circle of, and 13 m. W.N.W. Cattaro. It stands near the entrance to the Gulf of Cattaro, and is surrounded by walls which have suffered much from repeated sieges and earth quakes. It contains two churches, a K. Catholic and a Greek ; a lazaretto, and custom-house. The chief manufacture is in articles of brass. The country around is beautiful and fer tile. The pop. of the tn. is small, but that of the com. is 7019, of whom 6447 belong to the Greek church. CASTEL-Nuovo, numerous places, Italy, particularly: 1, A tn. and com. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Citra, 3 m. S.S.W. Lanciano. Pop. 4134. 2, A tn. and com. Naples, prov. Capi tanata, 14 HI. W.S. W. Sansevero. It stands on a rising ground, and contains three churches, an hospital, and almshouse. Pop. 3460. 3, Castelnuovo-d Asti, a tn. Sardinian States, Pied mont, prov. of, and 15 m. N.W. Asti. Gypsum is quarried hi the neighbourhood, and prepared for plaster. Pop. 2700. 4, Castelnuovo-di-Ceva, a tn. Sardinian States, Piedmont, division of, and 22 m. E. Coni. Pop. 2500. 5, Castdnuovo- di-JUagra, a tn. Sardinian States, Piedmont, prov. of, and 1 1 m. E. Spezzia, in a valley of its own name. Pop. 2626. 6, Castelnuovo-di-Sotto, a tn. Duchy Modena, on a canal of same name, 9 m. N.N.W. Keggio. Pop. 2000. CASTEL-SAN-GiovANNi [anc. Castnim S. Joannis de Olubia], a tn. Italy, duchy Parma, 12 m. \V. Piacenza on the Emilia ; well built, surrounded by ruinous walls, and defended by an ancient castle ; has a handsome collegiate church, town- hall, hospital, theatre; medical, veterinary, and several other seminaries; a market-house, and public promenade. Wine and oil are produced, and cattle are reared in the vicinity; and a well-attended fair is held in August. Pop. 3000. CASTEL-SAN-PiETKO, a tn. Papal States, 14 m. S.E. Bologna, near 1. bank, Silaro. It contains a fortress, built early in the 13th century. Pop. 3000. CASTEL-SAKDO [formerly, Castel-Aragonese], a tn. and seaport, N. coast, isl. Sardinia, division of, and 20 m. N.E. Sassari. It stands on the summit of a steep and almost iso lated rock, is surrounded by old walls and bastions, and is meanly built; has extremely steep streets, a cathedral, and a convent. The environs are fertile in corn and wine. Pop. 2042. CASTEL-SARRASiN [anc. Castnim, Saraccmim], a tn. France, dep. Tarn et-Garonne, 12 m. W. Montauban, in a fertile plain, on the Azine, about 1 m. from r. bank, Garonne. It is neat, well built, and was formerly encompassed by walls and ditches, now converted into promenades. Portions of the rampart and the Gothic portal of the parish church are the only remains of the ancient edifices. It is the seat of a court of first resort, has a communal college, and manufactures of serges, linen, and hats, besides tanneries and dye-works. Trade grain, oil, saffron, &c. Pop. 3420. CASTEL-TEiiMiNi [anc. Camiciance Aquae], a tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 17 m. N.N.W. Girgenti, near r. bank, Pla tani. In the neighbourhood a large quantity of sulphur is annually obtained. Pop., including that of Fontana Fredda, 5590. CASTEL-VETRANO, a tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 27 m. S.E. Trapani, on a rocky hill. It was originally well built, but has been falling to decay for years. It contains several churches and convents. The white wine produced in the neighbourhood is esteemed the best in Sicily. Articles of coral and alabaster are manufactured here. Pop. 12,328. CASTELBUOXO, a tn. Sicily, prov. Palermo, 9 m. S.S.E. Cefalu. In the vicinity are mineral springs. Pop. 7000. CASTELL-LLYcmvR, or LOUGHOR, a bor. and par. S. Wales, eo. Glamorgan, the former pleasantly situate between the Loughor and the Llyw, 6J m. W. by N. Swansea. It has a neat church, a Methodist chapel, and a well-attended school. With Swansea, Aberavon, Kenvig, and Neath, it returns a member to the House of Commons. The parish abounds in excellent coal. Pop. 854. CASTELLABATE, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Prin- cipato Citra, 15 m. W. Vallo, on a hill S. of the Gulf of Salerno, not far from Point Licosa. It contains several churches and an almshouse, spins a good deal of cotton, and carries on an active fishery in the gulf. Pop. 2260. CASTELLAMOKTE, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 9 m. S.W. Ivrea, on a hill, near 1. bank, Molosna. It has a castle and a large market-place ; manufactures of earthenware crucibles ; and trade in wine, cattle, butter, and cheese. Pop. 5200. CASTELLANA, a tn. Naples, prov. of, and 25 m. S.E. Bari, with a church and three convents. Pop. 7176. CASTELLANE [anc. Castdlum Sollmensium], a tn. France, dep. Basses- Alpes, 23 m. S.E. Digne, r. bank, Verdon, here crossed by a bridge of a single arch. It is tolerably well built, but the streets are narrow and dirty. The old fortifica tions (a wall, flanked with towers) are now in ruins. There are numerous saline springs in the vicinity. Coarse woollen cloth is made, wax bleached, and some trade done in dried fruits, particularly in esteemed prunes. Pop. 1454. CASTELLANETA, a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di-Otranto, 18 m. N.W. Tarentum. It is the seat of a bishopric, and has a cathedral, five convents, several charitable institutions, and an hospital. Cotton is extensively grown in the vicinity. Pop. 5453. CASTELLARO, a tn. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, prov. of, and 9 m. N.E. Mantua. It has a beautiful palace of the Duke of Mantua, and an annual fair in August. Pop. 2071. CASTELLAZZO, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 4 m. S. Alessandria, between the Bormida and the Orba. It has four churches, five convents, and some trade in the pro ducts of the country around. Pop. 5000. CASTELLETTO-sopRA-TiciNO, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 19 m. N. Novara, r. bank, Ticino. It contains a church and a convent. Pop. 3030. CA8TELLINA-DEL-CHIANTI 622 CABTELNAUDAKY CASTELLlNA-PEL-CHiANTi, a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 12 m. N. by W. Sienna, on a hill-tcp, \V. of Mount Chianti ; tolerably well built ; has walls, entered by two gates, is commanded by a castle, and has a handsome parish church. Pop. 824. CASTELLO 13ARONIA, a tn. and com. Naples, prov. Principato Ultra, 9 m. S.S.E. Ariano. It contains a castle and two churches, and manufactures a few coarse woollens. In the neighbourhood are sulphurous and chalybeate springs. Pop. 1439. CASTELLO-DE-viDE, a tn. Portugal, prov. Beira-Baixa, cap. dist. of same name, on a height, 9 m. N. Portalegre. It is surrounded by ancient walls, and defended by a strong castle, contains three churches, and has considerable manu factures of woollen cloth. A great number of swine are annually killed here. In the vicinity are no fewer than 300 springs. Pop. 5941. CASTELLO-BRANCO, a tn. Portugal, cap. prov. Beira- Baixa, and the see of a bishop, on a height, near 1. bank, Laca or Vereza, 56 m. S.E. Coimbra. It is surrounded by walls, flanked with seven towers, and is defended by an old castle ; but the streets are steep, and the houses indifferently built. It contains the bishop s palace, which is surrounded by fine gar dens ; two churches, two monasteries outside the walls, two hospitals, and a richly-endowed poorhouse. Pop. 6760. CAfeTELLON-DE-LA-PLANA, a prov. Spain, one of three into which the ancient kingdom of Valencia was subdivided in 1833 ; between lat. 39 38 and 40 47 N., and Ion. 35 E. and 1 25 W. ; area, 2804 sq. m. ; bounded, N. by provs. Teruel and Tarragona, E. by the Mediterranean Sea, S. by Valencia, and W. by Teruel. On the N. and W. it is extremely rugged and mountainous, with a sharp, bracing climate, exposed to the boisterous N. and N.W. winds; while to the S. and E. it abounds with rich valleys and fertile plains, and enjoys a soft atmosphere, the oppressive summer heats attempered by refreshing sea breezes, and sheltered in winter from the piercing blast by the adjacent hills. The mountain- ranges are chiefly of sandstone, their more elevated summits capped with snow during the greater part of the year, the culminating point being Penagolosa, 6000 ft. above sea-level ; their lower slopes generally covered with pine, oak, beech, holly, and other hardy trees and shrubs. Iron, copper, co balt, quicksilver, lead, vermilion, silver, and other metallic substances are found and mined in various localities; and several quarries of marble, granite, &c., are wrought. The plains and valleys are generally well cultivated for Spain, and produce grain, fruits, and vegetables, of all classes, of good quality, and in great abundance. They are watered by the rivers Mijares, Monleon, Bergantes, Cenia, Cervol, and nume rous smaller streams ; and, in some districts, irrigation is suc cessfully practised. Mineral springs are numerous. The inhabitants till the ground, rear cattle, fish, manufacture linen, woollen, hempen, and cotton fabrics, paper, soap, earthenware, hardware, esparto mats, work in iron and copper foundries, distil brandy, and express oil and wine to some extent. Edu cation is much neglected ; there are numerous schools in the towns, but the great proportion of the people are lamentably ignorant. They are generally robust and hardy in consti tution, and temperate in their habits, but, though fond of amusement, sullen and vindictive in disposition. Pop. 247,741. CASTELL01S 7 -DE-LA -PLANA [anc. Castalio], a city and port, Spain, cap. of above prov., 40 m. N.N.E. Valencia, in an extensive and fertile plain, irrigated by the Mijares, whose waters, through the medium of an ancient aqueduct, cut for a considerable distance through solid limestone rock, are conveyed 5 in. into the town, affording a copious .supply to the inhabitants, and dispensing life and verdure in the vicinity. This great work was probably the construction of James the Conqueror, King of Aragon, about 1240. The defences of the city were strengthened and increased, by the addition of batteries and a fosse, in 1837, but the works are now falling to decay for want of repair. The houses are in general well built and commodious, and the streets wide, straight, clean, and, though unpaved, many of the more im portant have good footpaths. It has nine squares, a town and courthouses, and parish church, wherein are some good paintings, monuments, statues, &c. ; two chapels of ease, Latin, normal, and primary schools, an hospital, poorhouse, theatre, barracks, orphan-asylum, bull-ring, two prisons, a cemetery, several convents, and a spacious and handsome episcopal palace. Manufactures: linen, woollen, and hempen fabrics, especially sail-cloth, also ropes, paper, soap, vermicelli, glass, earthenware, bricks, tiles, fire-arms, brandy, wine, oil, &c. Much attention is paid to the rearing of silk-worms. Im ports: sugar, coffee, alcohol, cotton, hides, vinegar, and salt fish ; annual value, about 18,000. Exports: hemp, grain, fruits, and manufactured goods ; annual value under 15,000. The vessels frequenting the port are numerous, but small ; the average annual tonn. being 16,952. Castellon was taken from the Saracens, in 1233, by James I. of Aragon, and sub sequently given by him to the monastery of San Vincente of Valencia. Francisco Ribalta, the painter, and his son, Juan Eibalta, also an artist, were born here. Pop. 16,952. CAteTELLON-DE-AMi UitiAS, atn. Spain, Catalonia, prov. of, and 20 m. N.E. Geror.a, on a small hill r. bank, Muga. The houses are small and inconvenient, and the streets nar row and mean. It contains, however, a magnificent church, several convents, a townhall, college, prison, several schools, a theatre, hospital, and public promenade ornamented with an avenue of trees and a fine fountain. The inhabitants are chiefly engaged in husbandry, cattle-rearing, and fishing. Pop. 2821. CASTELLON-DE JATIVA, or VILLAMJEVA-DE- CASTEL LON, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 30 m. S. by W. Valencia, in a plain, r. bank, Albayda. The town is surrounded by a wall, and entered by four gates. The houses are, in general, capa cious and well built, forming a principal street, several diverg ing lanes, and four small squares. It also has two churches, two chapels, a townhouse, prison, poorhouse, cemetery, and two primary schools. Manufactures : oil, earthenware, tiles, and bricks ; but the chief employment is rearing silk-worms. Pop. 1999. CASTELLONE. 1, A tn. and com. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, 4 m. N. Gaeta, on the old Appian Way, and near the centre of the Gulf of Gaeta. It contains a church and two convents; and in the neighbourhood is a tomb, said to be erected to Cicero near the spot where he was slain. Pop. 3940. 2, A vil. and com. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, 25 m. N.N.W. Piedimonte, in a mountainous district, near the sources of the Volturno. Pop. 1466. CASTELLUCCHIO, several places, Italy : 1, Atn. Aus trian Italy, gov. Venice, prov. of, and 7 m. W. Mantua, on the Vaso Osone. It contains a parish church, a chapel, and two mills. Pop. 2000. 2, A tn. and com. Naples [anc. Aqua HorranaJ], prov. Sannio, 9 m. W.N.W. Larino. It contains a collegiate church, an hospital, and two alms houses. Pop. 2757. 3, A tn. and com. Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, 6 m. S. W. Sora, pleasantly situate on a hill. Pop. 1229. 4, CanteUuccio Inftriore, and Castdluccio Svperiore, two vils. and com. Naples, prov. Basilicata, both in dist., and about 15 m. S.E. Lagonegvo. P. of former, 2993 ; of latter, 2483. CASTELMOKON, a tn. France, dep. Lot-et Garonne, r. bank, Lot, about 17 m. S.E. Marmande. It has a Calvin- istic consistorial church, and some trade in flour. Pop. 1013. CASTELNAU, several small tns. France. The most populous is Castelnau-de-Montratier, dtp. Lot, 14 m. S.S.W. Cahors. Pop. 1111. CASTELNAUDAPvY [anc. Castelhim Arri or Sotoma- 0w], a tn. France, dep. Aude, 21 m. W.N.W. Carcassone, in the form of an amphitheatre, on an eminence near the Canal du Midi. It is indifferently built, and the church of St. Michael, and the general hospital, a well-endowed establish ment, are the only noteworthy buildings. To the S. the canal forms a basin 1300 yards in circumference, surrounded by good quays, wan houses, and yards for building vessels em ployed on the canal. Above this basin is the public pro menade. The nuaiuiactures consist of coarse cloth, earthen ware, pottery, and bricks. There are also distilleries, tan neries, and corn-mills. Lime and gypsum are found in the environs. The grain and flour market is one of the largest in the S. of France, and some trade is carried on in timber, iron, copper, &c. It has a tribunal of commerce and of first resort, an exchange, agricultural and polytechnic societies, and a communal college. Castelnaudary was formerly the capital of the county of same name, and strongly fortified. In 1237 the inquisitors visited it, and not only condemned the living to the flames, but exhumed the dead, and made their remains figure in the CASTELORIZO 623 CASTILE (OLD) autos-da-fe. In 1355, it was almost totally destroyed by the Priiice of Wales. In 1632, the famous comLat between the troops of Louis XIII. and those of Gaston of Orleans took place below its walls. The Duke de Montmorency, who com manded the latter, was wounded, taken prisoner, and shortly ai ter executed at Toulouse. Pop. 8215. CASTELORIZO, or KASTELOIUZO, an isl. and seaport tn. Turkey in Asia, pash. Anatolia; lat. 36 5 N.; Ion. 29 1 4 E. The ISLAND, the largest and loftiest on the coast, is entirely barren, and ill supplied with water. The town and harbour are on the N.E. side. The harbour, though small, is snug; and merchant vessels can moor within 100 yards of the town. The TOWN, which consists of 500 or 600 houses scattered over the face of the rock, is governed by a Turkish Aga, but most of its inhabitants are Greeks. A little corn is collected here for exportation ; and several small vessels are constantly employed in conveying fire-wood from this part of the country to Egypt. It is also a favourite place of resort for merchant vessels, both going to and returning from Syria and Cyprus. Pop. 3000. CASTELROTTO, or CASTELRUT, a vil. and com. Aus tria, Tyrol, prov. of, and 14 m. N.E. Botzen, on a mountain near 1. bank, Eisach. The district is mountainous, and atfords good herbage for the numerous flocks. Pop. 3322. CASTELVETERE, several places Naples, particularly 1, Castdvetere, supposed anc. Caulon, a tn. and com., prov. Calabria Ultra I., 12 m. N.E. Gerace. It contains five churches and a castle, but was partly destroyed by the earth quake of 1783. In the neighbourhood much wine is pro duced, and many silk-worms are reared. Pop. 5117. 2, Tn. and com., prov. Sannio, 17 m. S.E. Campobasso. It has a collegiate church and an hospital. Pop. 3294. CASTENEDOLO, a vil. and com. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. of, and 6 m. S.E. Brescia. It occupies a height on the road between Brescia and Mantua, is well built, and contains a parish church, and several chapels and sanctuaries. The district around produces good crops of corn, has fine pas tures, and mulberry plantations. Pop. 2999. CASTERTON, two pars. Eng. Kutland: 1, (Great}; 1590 ac. Pop. 376. 2, (Little) ; 1450 ac. Pop. 132. CASTIGLIONE, numerous places, Italy, particularly 1, Yil. and com. Naples, prov. Calabria Citra, 5 m. N.N.E. Cosenza. Pop. 1200. 2, Tn. and com. Naples, prov. Cala bria Ultra II., 8 m. W.N.W. Nicastro, near the Adriatic. Pop. 3300. 3, Two vils. and com. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra I., both in dist. Penne, from which the one, Castif/lione della Fescara, is S. 13 m., pop. 1815; and the other Casti- glione-Messcr-Ilaimondo, 6 m. N.N.\V., pop. 2262. In the neighbourhood of the former is the fine royal abbey San Cle- mente de Casauria. 4, Castiylione-Messcr-Marino, a tn. and com. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Citra, 20 m. S.W. Vasto. It stands in the midst of mountains, and has five churches and a convent. Pop. 3485. 5, A vil. and com. Sicily, prov. of, and 30 m. N. Catania, and on the N.E. side of Mount Etna. Pop. 2847. 6, Catitir/Uone del Stiviere, a small city, Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, prov. of, and 22 m. N.W. Mantua, 17 m. S.E. Brescia. It is well built, surrounded by walls, de fended by an ancient castle, and contains a large square adorned with a central fountain, three churches, and a town- hall. A well-attended annual fair is held in June. The French obtained here a decisive victory over the Austrians on August 5, 1796, which gave to Marshal Agereau his title of Due de Castiglione. Pop. 5051. 7, A vil. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. Bergamo, 6 m. N.E. Clusone. Pop. 1582. 8, A vil. Austrian Italy, gov. Milan, prov. Como, 4 m. N. Tradate. Pop. 1300. 9, A vil. Austrian Italy, prov. of, and 3 m. W. Sondrio, r. bank, Adda. Pop. 1154. CASTIGLIONE-FioREXTiKO [anc. Arrctium fidens], a tn. and com. Tuscany, prov. of, and 9 m. S.S.E. Arezzo. It is tolerably well built, and has a large square, a handsome collegiate church, a chapel, municipal buildings, hospital, orphan asylum, and college. Pop. 4932. _ CASTILBLANCO, a tn. Spain, Estremadura, prov. Ba- dajos, 15 m. E.S.E. Logrosan, on an eminence, near r. bank, Guadiana. Its houses are indifferently built ; streets, though paved, irregular ; and its townhall, prison, and storehouse, with other buildings, were burnt by the Carlists in 1837. It has, however, a parish church, chapel, cemetery, and two schools. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in domestic weaving, husbandry, and in rearing cattle and pigs. Pop. 1700. Several other small places in Spain bear the same name. CASTILE (NEW), [Spanish, Castillo. La Nuevd], an an cient prov. Spain, corresponding to the old kingdom of Toledo, and occupying nearly the centre of the peninsula ; bounded, N. by Old Castile, W. Estremadura, S. Andalusia and Murcia, and E. Valencia and Aragon ; greatest length, E. to W. 240 m. ; average breadth, about 155 m. ; area, 42,904 sq. m. It is traversed from E. to \V. by three lofty mountain chains, nearly parallel to each other the mountains of Toledo and sierra Molina stretching almost across its centre, the sierra Guadarama forming its N., and the sierra Morena forming its S. frontier. Between these chains, which form the great water-sheds of the province, lie two extensive plains or pla teaux, with a general inclination to the E. ; that to the N. of the central chain belonging to the basin of the Tagus, by which, or its affluents, all its waters are received; and that to the S. belonging to the basin of Guadiana, except a small portion of the E., which is separated from this basin by a transverse ridge, and, sloping S.E., sends its waters to the Me diterranean. These plains, from being very poorly wooded, have in winter a bleak, and in summer often an arid appear ance. They are chiefly devoted to the raising of grain, and must, m many districts, be of great fertility, since notwith standing the miserable system of agriculture pursued, the produce more than equals the consumption. The other prin cipal crops are hemp and saffron. Many of the lower slopes are clothed with vineyards, from which much wine of good quality is obtained. In the higher mountain valleys the pas tures are excellent, and feed vast numbers of mules, cattle, sheep, goats, and swine. A mountain product of considerable importance is the esparto, of which a variety of articles, and particularly the famous mats so named are made. The moun tains are also rich in minerals, of which it may be sufficient here to mention the quicksilver mines of Almaden, which were long, and probably must still be regarded as the richest in the world. Manufactures, which at one period had attained a high degree of prosperity, are greatly decayed, and the whole province is miserably deficient in regard to all the great branches of industry. The inhabitants have a grave, reflect ive cast of countenance, and have often distinguished them selves by a peculiar aptitude for scientific acquirement. They are, however, generally indolent in their habits, and live on from day to day as their fathers did before them, seldom attempting to better their condition, and at the same time in dulging a self-complacency, which to a stranger borders very much on the ridiculous. It must be admitted, on the other hand, that unlike most people in the world, they are really better than they seem, and possess in a higher degree the valuable qualities of civility, generosity, and probity. This ancient province now forms the five provinces of Madrid, Ciudad-Keal, Cuenca, Guadalajara, and Toledo. P. 1,490,799. CASTILE (OLD), [Spanish, Castdla La Vieja], an anc. prov. Spain ; bounded, N. by the Bay of Biscay, N.E. Biscayand Navarre, E. Aragon, S. New Castile, and \V. Leon; greatest length, N.E. to S.W., 210 m. ; breadth, 170 m. ; area 26,768 sq. m. It is traversed by three mountain chains the sierra de Guadarama, which takes an E.N.E. direction, separating this province from that of New Castile, and on reaching the E. frontier links in with the sierra de Deza, which turns to the N. and separates Old Castile from Aragon ; a central chain, apparently a continuation W. of the sierra de Deza; and tlie Cantabrian Mountains in the N., at no great distance from, and almost parallel with, the coast. Numerous minor ramifications penetrate between these chains and diversify the surface, but the greater part of this space consists of exten sive, well-watered, and generally fertile plains. The largest of them, to the S. of the central chain, belongs to the basin of the Douro, which, flowing across it E. to W., drains it either directly or by numerous affluents. Even a considerable part of the plains N. of the central chain sends its waters to the Douro. The remaining portion belongs to the basin of the Ebro. Besides these two large basins, a smaller one in the S.E. of the province belongs to the Tagus; and another, equally small, in the province of Santander, and to the N. of the Cantabrian Mountains, sends its waters directly to the sea. The far greater part of the arable land of this province is de voted to the culture of grain, particularly wheat, which is CASTILLO 624 CASTLE -MARTYR raised in such abundance as to furnish a large surplus for the supply of other provinces, and entitles this one to be regarded as the principal granary of Spain. In addition to cereals, the principal crops are flax and madder. The vine thrives well, and much excellent wine might be produced, but the inhabi tants, either blind to their interests, or too indolent to pur sue them, pay little regard to this most lucrative branch of rural economy, and produce only a little wine of very indif ferent quality. The pastures, both of the mountflfns and the plain?, are excellent. The former are depastured in summer, and the latter in winter. In this way an ample supply of food is obtained throughout the year, and immense flocks of sheep are fed. The wool thus produced was long famous throughout Europe, and though it is said to be rivalled by that of Saxony, and still more recently by that of our own Australia, the wool of this province still forms one of its prin cipal sources of revenue. The minerals of Old Castile re main yet to be perfectly explored. There can scarcely be a doubt that they might be made of great value, but at present they are scarcely of any economical importance. Old Cas tile now forms the provinces of Santander, Burgos, Logroiio, Soria, Segovia, and Avila. Pop. 1,427,477. CASTILLO, several tns. and vils. Spain ; the most im portant are 1, Castilto-de- Locubin, a tn. Andalusia, prov. of, and 25 m. S.W. Jaen, on the N. side of the sierra Alca- muiia. Most of the streets are narrow, ill paved, and steep. In the public square are the remains of an Arab fortress, called Villeta. There are a handsome parish church, with a highly decorated Corinthian portal ; five chapels, two schools, a townhouse, hospital, prison, store-house, cemetery, and some convents. Manufactures: linen, woollen, and hempen fab rics; vinegar, wine, and oil. In the environs several quar ries of jasper, limestone, and millstone are wrought. An annual cattle fair is held in September. Pop. 3971 .2, Cas- tillo-de-las-Gvardas, a tn. Andalusia, prov. of, and 30 m. N.W. Seville, on an elevated site, commanded, except on the N., by loftier hills. Nearly all the streets are paved, steep, and lined with tolerably well-built houses. Its townhall and prison are of recent construction ; it also possesses two churches and two primary schools. The inhabitants, mostly engaged in weaving and husbandry, carry on a small trade in grain, wine, oil, honey, and coal. In the neighbouring hills are abandoned mines of copper, lead, and silver. Pop. 2287. 3, Castillo-de- Garci-Ahtftoz, a tn. New Castile, prov. of, and 27 m. S.S.W. Cuenca, on a declivity overlooked by a ruinous castle belonging to the Marquis of Villena. It possesses a parish church, two convents, and does some little trade in cereals and oil. Pop. 1185. CASTILLON [anc. Castillo], a tn. France, dep. Gironde, r. bank, Dordogne, 26 m. AV. Bordeaux. Nails, cordage, barrels, bricks, tiles, cotton, and woollen yarn, are made here, and there is some trade in wool. In the environs are the re mains of the Chateau de Montaigne, where the celebrated essayist of that name died, Sep. 13, 1592. In 1541, the English, under Talbot, were defeated by the French before the walls of Castillon. Pop. 2700. CASTILLON is the name of several other small towns and villages in France. CASTIIsE, a seaport vil. U. States, Maine, E. side of Penobscot Bay, opposite Belfast, 75 m. E. Augusta. It has nn excellent and commodious harbour, accessible to ships of the heaviest burthen at all seasons of the year ; considerable trade in timber, coasting, and the fisheries. It was in pos session of the British during the war with America. Pop. (1840), 1188. CASTLE, numerous pars. England: 1, Cambridge; 2613 ac. Pop. 854. 2, Castle (Carrock), Cumberland; 3G40 ac. Pop. 351. 3, Castle (Church], Stafford; 3460 ac. Pop. 1484. 4, Castle (Comic), Wilts; 1770 ac. Pop. 6CO. 5, Castle (Eaton], Wilts; 2020 ac. Pop. 312. 6, Cattle (Eden), Durham; 1630 ac. Pop. 558. 7, Castle (Fron-c), Hereford; 1320 ac. Pop. 183. 8, Castle (Morton), Wor cester; 3780 ac. Pop. 855. 9, Castle (Rising), Norfolk; 2330 ac. Pop. 358. 10, Castle (Sovcrly), Cumberland; 7940 ac. Pop. 1007. 11, Castle (Thorpe), Bucks; 1380ac. Pop. 365. CASTLE, numerous pars. Ireland : 1 , Castl boy, Down ; l"58ac. Pop. 775. 2, Casthbrack, Queen s co. ; 9276 ac. Pop. 1924. 3, Castleconor, Sligo; 16,678 ac. Pop. 5136. 4, Castlcdtrmot, par. and tn. Kildare; 7498 ac. Pop. 3090. 5, Castleilillon, Kildare; 1133ac. Pop. 147. 6, Caflle- Kills, Wexford; 5603 ac. Pop. 1871. 7, Castleharen, Cork ; 10,542 ae. Pop. 6056. 8, Castkinch, Kilkenny; 2367 ac. Pop. 492. 9, Castle-Island, par. and tn. Kerry; 29,633 ac. Pop. 5950. 10, Castlejordan, Meath and King s co.; 17,372 ac. Pop. 4079. 11, Castl, knock, Dublin; 7124 ac. Pop. 4063. 1.2, Cat tl lost, Westmeath; 9457 ac. Pop. 2058. 13, Castldyons, Cork; 12,718 ac. Pop. 5536. 14, Castle- macadam, Wicklow; 10,843 ac. Pop. 5633. 15, Castle- magner, Cork; 7830 ac. Pop. 3007. 16, Castlemore, Kos- common; 8914 ac. Pop. 3532. 17, Castlerahan, Cavan; 10,315 ac. Pop. 7589. 18, Castlerickard, Meath; 3434 ac. Pop. 551. 19, Castkterra, Cavan; 9981 ac. Pop. 6813. 20, Castletoum(l), Louth ; 2611 ac. Pop. 1043. (2), Limer ick ; 1 777 ac. Pop. 919. (3), Meath ; 4068 ac. Pop. 1075. 2 1 , Castlctownarra, Tipperary ; 9274 ac. Pop. 4292. 22, Castletoivndelvin, par. and tn. W. Meath; 18,282 ac. Pop. 4588. 23, Castletoirn-Kindalen, Westmeath; 11,399 ac. Pop. 4290. 24, CastUtomily, King s co. ; 1803 ac. Pop. 371. 25, Castlercntry, Cork; 4754 ac. Pop. 3476. CASTLE-ACRE, a vil. and par. England, co. Norfolk, about 3 m. N. Swafl ham. The VILLAGE, which stands on a bold acclivity, has three main streets, unpaved and irregular, while the houses are almost entirely cottages of flint or brick. There is a fine parish church of the time of Edward IV., and four chapels belonging to Baptists, Wesleyan, and Primitive Methodists. The population is entirely agricultural. Area of par. 32 1 ac. Pop. 1 495. CASTLE-BELL1KGHAM, a small tn. Ireland, co. Louth, agreeably situate on the Glyde, 4J m. N. Dunleer. It has a handsome parish church, a school, a dispensary; and the inhabitants are engaged in linen weaving, and in an extensive brewery, which is here. Pop. 665. CASTLE BLAKENEY, or KILLASOLAN, par. Irel., co. Gal way; 11,482 ac. Pop. 4496. CASTLE-BLANEY, a market tn. Ireland, co. Mona- ghan, on a gentle eminence, about 10 m. N. Carrickmacross. It consists of four principal streets, straight, clean, and well kept; and the houses, which are mostly of stone, are well built and slated ; good supply of water. The residence of Lord Blayney adjoins the town. The market-house, townhall, council-house, and statirn of the Dundalk and Enniskilkn Kail way, are the chief buildings. Here are an Episcopal church, with an elegant spire, a E. Catholic chapel, a Methodist, two Presbyterian meeting-houses, and three schools. Near the town are two extensive flax-mills, but the people are chiefly em ployed in agriculture. Pop. 2134. CASTLE BYTHE, or CASTLE HIGH, par. W T ales, Pem broke. Pop. 266. CASTLE CAEREINION, par. Wales, Montgomery; 5984 ac. Pop. 805. CASTLE-CARY,rar. Eng. Somerset; 3640 ac. P. 1942. CASTLE DOUGLAS [formerly, Carlinwark}, a market tn. Scotland, co. Kirkcudbright, 18 m. S.W. Dumfries. It is mostly of recent erection, and is built on a regular plan, on a gentle declivity, terminating in a lake called Carlinwark Loch ; houses, in general, handsome and substantial ; streets wide and spacious, crossing each other at right angles. It was erected into a burgh of barony in 1792 ; and has a hand some modern townhouse, with a tower. It is the great mart for all the produce of the county ; weekly market on Monday, at which great numbers of black cattle and sheep are sold, besides large quantities of all kinds of agricultural produce. Pop. (1841), 1847. CASTLE-FINN, a small market tn. Ireland, co. Donegal, about 5 m. W.S.W. Strabane. It lies on the Fimi, which is navigable to the town. Pop. 567. CASTLE- GREGORY, a small wretched-looking tn., co. Kerry, \ m. from S. shore, Tralee Bay, 12 m. W. Tralee. It has a K. Catholic chapel, a national, and a parochial school. The people are principally employed in agricultural labour, and in fishing at certain periods of the year, in neither of which occupations, however, can they boast of any skill. Pop. 504. CASTLE M^ RTIN, par. Wales, Pembroke. Pop. 408. CASTLE -MARTYR, a post tn. Ireland, co. of, and 18 m. E. Cork on the Maine, here crossed by a bridge. It consists of one spacious street, of large, well-built, and white washed houses, which give the town a cheerful and agreeable CASTLE POLLAKD CASTRES appearance. It has a church, dispensary, fever-hospital, and other charities. It returned two members to the Irish House of Commons till the Union. There are two fairs annually, and petty sessions every alternate Wednesday. Pop. 1397. CASTLE POLLARD, a tn. Ireland, co. Westmeath, 12 m. N. by E. Mullingar, beautifully situate in a fertile valley, having, S.W., Lough Derveragh, and S.E., Lough Lane. It consists of several well-built, cleanly-kept, and handsome streets, having in the centre a square, in which is situate the market-house. It has a handsome church, R. Catholic chapel, parochial school, savings -bauk, dispensary, and fever -hospital ; and four annual fairs. Pop. (1841), 1310. CASTLE-WELLAN, a market tn. Ireland, co. Down, agreeably situate 10 m. S.W. Dowupatrick. It is well built, and the houses, generally, are neat and comfortable. It has chapels for R. Catholics, Presbyterians, and W esleyan Methodists, a free school, and infantry barracks. The linen manufacture, in all its branches of flax-dressing, spinning, and weaving is carried on. There are also extensive bleach- fields in the neighbourhood. Pop. 806. CASTLEBAR, a tn. Ireland, co. Mayo, N. extremity of lake of same name, 126 m. W. by N. Dublin. It consists of one principal street, nearly 1 m. in length, spacious and irre gular, though tolerably well built, from which several smaller streets and lanes diverge, and has also a sort of square a green area around which are many handsome houses. The parish church is an elegant structure in the later English style, with a lofty square embattled tower ; the R. Catholic chapel is large and well proportioned ; and there are a Wes- leyan Methodist meeting-house, some schools, an infirmary, two dispensaries, and a barrack for artillery and infantry. The court-house and new county jail are both extensive and well arranged, the latter having a castellated front, and con taining 140 cells. The assizes for the county are held here, and also the quarter sessions in January and October, besides petty sessions every Saturday. Linen, and linen yarn, are manufactured here to a considerable extent ; as are also to bacco, snuff, soap, and candle. There are likewise a brewery and a tannery in the town ; but the general trade is in grain and other agricultural produce. Castlebar was taken by a French force which landed in Killalla Bay, in 1798, but was evacuated shortly after, on the approach of Lord Cornwallis. Pop. (1841), 5137. CASTLECARY, a hamlet, Scotland, co. of, and 9 m. S. by W. Stirling, and one of the stations on the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway. Near it are the remains of a Roman fort, covering six acres of ground, and vaulted underneath. CASTLECOMER, a tn. and par. Ireland, co. Kilkenny. The town lies on the Deen, 54 m. S.E. Dublin, and consists of one spacious main street, beautified by a row of trees on either side, and several smaller streets and lanes ; is regularly built, and has a cleanly and respectable appearance. It has a commodious parish church ; a R. Catholic chapel, and near it a convent, a small Wesleyan meeting-house, a court house, a dispensary, small infantry barracks, and various schools. The chief dependence of the place is on the col lieries in the neighbourhood, which have been worked for more than a century, producing the peculiar kind of mineral known by the name of Kilkenny coal, which, containing no bitumen, burns without flame or smoke, and yields a strong heat. A great proportion of the coal is conveyed to Dublin by the river Nore and Barrow, and by the Grand Canal. The town was attacked by the rebels in 1798, and great part of it destroyed by fire. Pop. (1841), 1765. Area of par. 21,592 fte. Pop. 13,535. CASTLEFORU, a vil. and par. England, York, W. Rid ing. The VILLAGE, 21 m. S.W. York, on the York and N, Midland Railway, is built on an acclivity, consists of two main streets, one of them crooked and not well kept, and the houses, principally of brick, are but indifferently built ; a great de ficiency of water. Besides the parish church, a fine Gothic structure, there are two chapels belonging to the Wesleyan and Primitive Methodists, with a national and other schools. The male population are chiefly employed in glass-works and pot teries. Area of par. 2040 ac. Pop. 1850. CASTLEREAGH, a market tn. Ireland, co. of, and 15 in. W.N.W. Roscommon, on the Suck, which runs through the centre of the town. The houses are all of limestone, rough cast, and many of them are well built. It has a court- VOL. I. house, school-house, Protestant church, and R. Catholic chapel, and three schools for males, females, and infants. There are no manufactures, but a large amount of general trade is carried on. The people, who are chiefly employed in agriculture, are moral and industrious. P. (1841) 1233. CASTLETON, par. and vil. England, co. Derby. The VILLAGE, 13m. W. by S. Sheffield, is situate at the bottom of a rugged eminence, on which stands the ancient castle called Peak Castle, erected by William Peveril, natural son of the Conqueror. The houses are chiefly of stone. It con tains the parish church, a fine specimen of the early pointed style ; a Wesleyan chapel, and a free grammar-school. The inhabitants are mostly employed in mining ; but many derive a subsistence from the manufacture of ornamental articles from spar, and from strangers visiting the remarkable natural curiosities in the neigbourhood, the most extraordinary of which is the Peak Cavern, or Devil s Cave, consisting of a series of subterranean chambers, which can be explored only by torch light. The entrance to this cavern is in the face of a precipitous limestone rock, at the height of 50 ft. from the ground, and is 46 ft. high, by 120 wide. The whole depth of the excavation inwards, from the outward opening is 2300 ft. The Peveril of the Peak of Sir Walter Scott s novel of that name, was the supposed founder of the original castles at Castleton. Area of par., 10,000 ac. Pop. 1500. CASTLETON, par. Eng. Dorset ; 30 ac. Pop. 113. CASTLETON OF BRAEMAR, a vil. Scotland, co. of, and 50 m. W. by S. Aberdeen, a little above the confluence of the Clunie with the Dee. It has a chapel of ease connected with the Established church, a Free church, and a R. Catholic chapel. Pop. 245. CASTLETOWN, a tn., cap. of Isle of Man, at its S. extremity, W. shore of bay of its name. It is intersected by a small stream, over which are a draw-bridge for foot passen gers, and a stone bridge for carriages. The castle of Rushen, which stands on the r. bank of the river, and was originally the principal fortress of the island, is a large quadrangular building, surrounded by a lofty wall and fosse, and defended by a glacis of stone. The keep, which is still entire, is the only prison in the island. The market-place consists of a spacious area, near the castle wall ; and a market- house was erected in 1830. It has a handsome chapel, and places of worship for Primitive Methodists, Wesleyans, and R. Catholics. King William s college, founded in 1830, the buildings of which were very handsome, was consumed by fire in 1 844. In the town and its vicinity are several breweries, tanneries, lime kilns, and corn-mills. Pop. 2283. CASTLETOWN, par. Scot. Roxburgh/, 18 m. by 12 m. Pop. 2135. CASTLETOWN ROCHE, a tn. and : ,par. Ireland, co, Cork. The TOWN, on the Awbeg, 7 m. W.N.W. Ferrnoy. consists of one principal street, mostly composed of miserable thatched cabins. It is well supplied with water ; and has a handsome Episcopal church, with a tower and spire ; a R. Catholic chapel, a national school, and one under the Church Education Society, a dispensary, and two large flour-mills. The inhabitants are agriculturists, and very poor. The cele brated Edmund Burke was born in the neighbourhood. Area of par. 6485 ac. Pop. 3476; of tn. 1063. CASTON, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 1680 ac. Pop. 513. CASTOR, a vil. and par. England, co. Northampton. The VILLAGE, 4 m. W. Peterborough, on a branch of the London and North-western Railway, consists of one irregular, but well-kept, street, and some side ones, and is almost united to Ailsworth, another village, consisting of a single street. The houses in general are of a respectable description. The parish church is a handsome cruciform structure, with an elegant Norman tower, surmounted by a spire. There are, besides, two chapels of ease, and an Independent chapel, and a free school. Inhabitants chiefly agriculturists. Castor is the Durobrivce of Antoninus, and remains of many buildings, as baths and villas with tessellated pavements, have been found here. Area of par. 7020 ac. Pop. 1313 ; of vil. 716. (Local Correspondent.} CASTRES [anc. Castrum Alllensium], a tn. France, dep. Tarn, 23 m. S.S.E. Albi, on the Agout, which divides it into two parts Castres Proper, N. side, and Villegoudon, S. side the river, which is crossed by two stone bridges. The streets are narrow and winding. The public buildings are the Hotel 79 CASTRICUM CASTROVILLAR1 de Ville, formerly the Episcopal palace, which contains a public library with 7000 volumes, and has a garden laid out on the plan of the Tuilleries; three churches, one of them Protestant; two hospitals, a theatre, cavalry barracks, &c. There are several fine promenades, and a handsome square. The manufactures of the town are in a thriving condition. They consist of fine cloths, coarse cloth for the troops, flan nels, blankets, and other woollen goods, linen, glue, and black soap. There are, also, bleaching-grounds, dyeworks, tanneries, paper-mills, forges, and brass foundries. A considerable trade is carried on in the above articles, and in silk, cotton, liqueurs, and confectionary. Castres has a tribunal of first resort, and of commerce, an agricultural society, communal college, and two seminaries. The bishopric of which this was once the seat was suppressed at the revolution of 1793. Kapin the historian was a native of Castres. Pop. 13,590. CASTRICUM, vil. Holland. See KASTRICUM. CASTRIES (BAY OF), a bay, China, Manchooria, Gulf of Tartary, between Manchooria and isl. Sagalin ; lat. 51 28 N.; Ion. 141E. (R.) CASTRIES (PORT). See CARENAGE. CASTRO [anc. Mytilene}. I, A seaport town, Asiatic Turkey, isl. Mytilene, off W. coast, cap. of the island ; lat. 39 6 N.; Ion. 26 35 E.; situate on a point of land which forms two small ports or harbours, and surrounded by a double wall, flanked with towers, and defended by a castle ; streets narrow and dirty. Small vessels are built here. The ruins of the ancient town of Mytilene are scattered over a considerable space of ground to the W. of the present town. Pop. upwards of 6000. 2, A seaport tn. Naples, prov. of, and 10 m. S. W. Otranto. It is the seat of a bishopric, and has a cathedral and an old castle. The district produces grain, wine, fruit, and cotton ; and fish are plentiful on the coast. In the 1 6th century the town was sacked by the Turks, who carried off the women and children as slaves, and since then, it has frequently suffered from visitations of the Corsairs from Barbary. The port admits only small vessels. Pop. 7780. 3, A tn. and seaport, Chili, E. coast, isl. Chiloe, head of a fine bay of same name. Its port is good and it does some trade. It was founded in 1560 by Don-Lopez-Garcia, then Viceroy of Peru. Pop. 3500. CASTRO, several places, Portugal: 1, Castro Daire, a tn. and par., prov. Beira-Alta, 18 m. S.S.W. Lamego, with a church and an hospital. Pop. 2400. 2, Castro Laboreiro, a tn. and par., prov. Minho, 32 m. N.E. Ponte-do-Lima ; on an elevated plateau, in a mountainous district, near the fron tiers of Spain. It contains an old ruined castle, and owing to its great height, and total want of shelter by trees, is considered the coldest place in Portugal. Pop. 1500. 3, Castro JHarim, a tn., prov. Algarve, in the S.E. corner of the kingdom; on the Guadiana, and near its embouchure, 15m. N.E. Tavira, on the Spanish frontier. It was once fortified, but the forti fications are now in ruins. The inhabitants are employed chiefly in fishing and smuggling. There are salt springs in the neighbourhood. Pop. 2260. 4, Castro Ferde, a tn. and par., prov. Algarve, r. bank, Corbes, 26 m. S.W. Beja. It contains a collegiate church, infirmary, and hospital. Pop. 2695. CASTRO-CoNTRioo, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 40 m. S.W. by W. Leon, r. bank, Eria, tolerably well built, and has a parish church, chapel, and two primary schools ; inhabitants mostly engaged in weaving and agriculture. Pop. 1494. CASTRO-DEL-Rio, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 16 m. S.E. by S. Cordova, on a declivity, r. bank, Guadajyz. The more ancient part of the town is surrounded by a dila pidated wall, flanked with towers, and entered by one gate, which was defended by an Arab castle, now also ruinous. The modern portion is outside the walls and extends along the foot of the hill on its N. side. Most of the streets are wide and regular, lined with well built houses and handsome public edifices. Its parish church is spacious, has three naves iind a lofty tower containing a clock and peal of six bells, the decorations of the interior are tasteful, and have been renovated. Here are two colleges, several primary schools, some convents with churches attached, and an economic society. The remaining public buildings comprise six chapels, two hospitals, a capacious townhall, prison, storehouse, and cemetery. Manufactures : linen, woollen, and hempen fabrics, earthenware, tiles, bricks, lime, brandy, wine, oil, and vinegar. Trade: wheat, cattle, oil, honey, &c. An annual fair in September. Pop. 9092. CASTRO -GIOVANNI [anc. Enna], a tn. Sicily, prov. Caltanisetta, 13 m. N.N.W. Piazza, near the centre of the island ; on a high table-land, formed by the union of the three chains of mountains extending in different directions from this point. Its height above sea level is more than 4000 ft. The plateau on which it stands is still remarkable for fertility ; while in ancient times it was adorned with the groves anil temples of Ceres, the presiding goddess of the locality, who is said to have been a native of Enna. Her most sacred temple was erected on the spot occupied by the modern town, but all traces of it have disappeared. An old castle still remains, probably built by the Northmen, who occupied Sicily in the Middle Ages. Castro-Giovanni is miserably poor, and appears to be going still further to decay. Sulphur is ob tained in the district to the annual amount of 46,875 cwts. During the first servile war, Enna was the head quarters of the slaves who held out against the power of Rome for some years, and fought three successful battles with her armies ; but were at last subdued, and the town was taken by the consul Hupilius. Pop. 12,000. CASTRO-Novo, a tn. Sicily, prov. Palermo, 22 m. S.S.W. Termini. Marble is found in the environs. Pop. 5800. CASTIlO-Nuovo, a tn. and com. Naples, prov. Basilicata, 22 m. E.N.E. Lagonegro. It has an annual fair. Pop. 2885. CASTRO- PIGNANO, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Sannio, 5 m. N.W. Campobasso, near 1. bank, Biferno. It contains four churches and a convent, and has a paper-mill. P. 2758. CASTRO-L RDiAJ.ES, a tn. and port, Spain, prov. of, and 24 rn. E. by S. Santander, in a plain, at the N.E. base of the sierra de Pando. The town is defended by a wall on the land side, and by numerous batteries, and is commanded by an ancient and strong castle. The houses, particularly the modern portion of them, are well constructed, and the princi pal streets well paved and clean. In its principal square stands the town-hall, a spacious structure of hewn stone. The parish church is ancient; and there are also a convent, chapel, nautical, mathematical, and several primary schools, and a short distance from the town is an hospital. There is a dock, and near it a handsome public fountain. Manufactures : linen fabrics, sails, ropes, leather, fishing-nets, tiles, bricks, &c. A great portion of the inhabitants are occupied in fish ing, and salting fish, and in the docks. The trade of the port is very limited, consisting chiefly of iron, wine, brandy, salt- fish, and hides. Pop. 3110. CASTROJER1Z, a tn. Spain, Old Castile, prov. of, and 17 m. W. by S. Burgos, at the S. base of a hill, crowned by a castle built by Julius Caesar. It has wide, clean, and paved streets, which are supplied with footpaths ; and the houses are generally well built. It has a capacious market square, containing the townhouse, prison, one of the churches, and an extensive portico, supported by pillars of hewn stone, and forming an agreeable promenade in wet weather. It has a fine collegiate and several other churches, seven convents, a Latin, grammar, and some primary schools, seven hospitals, and a cemetery. Manufactures : linen and woollen fabrics, glass, earthenware, bricks, stucco, hats, wine, &c. Trade: grain, fruits, honey, and cattle. Pop. 2420. CASTROFOL, a tn. and port, Spain, Asturias, prov. of, and 58 m. W.N.W. Oviedo; on a declivity, at mouth of the Eo. The houses in general are indifferently built, and the streets, though clean, are irregular, and badly paved. The town possesses three squares, a parish church, and capacious townhouse, built on the site of an ancient palace, formerly belonging to the Bishop of Oviedo, and serving the combined purpose of guildhall, police-court, and prison. The other town edifices are two chapels, a custom-house, and school. Weaving, fishing, and husbandry are the chief occupations. Pop. 1246. CASTROREALE, a tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 22 m. W.S.W. Messina, on the Castro. Good wine and oil are pro duced in the neighbourhood ; and there is a chalybeate spring a short distance from the town. Pop. 3462. CASTRO VI LLAR1, a tn. Naples, prov. Calabria Citrn, 34 m. N. Coscnza, 1. bank, Coscilello. It is well built, par tially fortified, and has three churches, several convents, and an hospital. It has also a tolerable trade in wine, cotton, manna, silk, and fruit. Pop. 7100. CASTROV1REINA 627 CATAMARCA CASTROVIREIXA, a prov. and vil. Peru, dep. Ayacu- cho ; bounded, N. by Angeraez, E. by Cangallo, S. by Lucauas, and W. by Lima ; length, 66 in. ; breadth, 75 in. It is hi gen eral hilly and barren, with a cold climate; but souie places produce corn and potatoes. The warmer valleys produce fruits, and abundance of pasture for cattle and sheep. The VILLAGE is a very small place, situate on a mountain, where the cold is excessive. Pop. of prov. 14,000. CASTUERA, a tn. Spain, Estremadura, prov. of, and 67 m. E. by S. Badajos, near r. bank, Guadalefra. Most of its streets are straight, clean, and well paved. It has two squares, lined with substantial houses ; the principal one con tains the townhall, prisons, and spacious modern parish church. Here are also several chapels, three schools, and an extensive cemetery. The inhabitants are engaged in weaving, making earthenware, tiles, bricks, shoes, &c. Trade is carried on in cattle, wool, wine, grain, and oil. Pop. 5578. CAT KAYS, a group of islets, Great Bahama Bank, the largest about 70 m. S.S. W. the nearest point of Great Bahama Island, and 10 m. from the Bernini Islands. It has a light house, erected by the British Government, the base of which is 25 ft. above high water, with a tower 55 ft. in height. The light revolves once in every minute. The tower stands in lat. 25 34 30" N.; Ion. 79 18 24" W. CATALDO (ST.), a tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 5 m. W.S. W. Caltanisetta. The sulphur works in the environs produce annually about 37,500 cwt. Pop. 7879. CATALINA (SANTA). 1, An isl., N. Pacific Ocean, off the coast of Upper California, from which it is separated by the channel of Santa Barbara, here about 18 in. wide. It is about 45 m. in circumference. 2, A small isl. Caribbean Sea, 93 m. E. the Mosquito coast, and a little N. Old Providence Island. 3, A small fort, Portugal, prov. Beira, 28J in. W.S.W. Coimbra; on the r. bank, and at the mouth of the Mondego. 4, A harbour, E. coast, isl. Newfoundland, in N. Trinity Bay, and 1 1 m. S. Cape Bonavista ; lat. 48 35 N. ; Ion. 53 W. 5, A cape, W. coast, Central America, state of, and 70 m. S.S.W. Nicaragua; lat. 10 35 N. CATALONIA [Spanish, Cataluna], a principality and old prov., Spain, forming the N.E. corner of the Peninsula, between lat. 40 30 and 42 51 N., and Ion. 15 and 3 21 E.; bounded, N. by France, E. and S. by the Mediter ranean, S. by Valencia, and W. by Aragon ; greatest length, 1 85 m. ; greatest breadth, 1 30 m. ; but being of a triangular form, it diminishes S. ward to a breadth of about 22 or 23 m. ; area, 12,111 sq. m. It is extremely mountainous, the province being covered by numerous offsets of the Pyrenees, which separate it from France, and which generally have a S. direction ; and it is traversed S.W. to N.E. by the Sierra de la Llena, which is separated by the Ebro on the S. from the mountains traversing the N. part of Valencia and the S. of Aragon, and which in the N. near Cardona unites with one of the offsets of the Pyrenees, and thus forms a watershed through the centre of the province. All the higher mountains of Catalonia are perpetually covered with snow, and the lower hills with wood ; the valleys are verdant, and generally watered by a rivulet. The principal rivers are the Ebro, the Llobregat, and the Ter, all of which fall into the Mediterranean. In the N. part of the province are a number of extinct volcanoes ; and near the centre is a remarkable mass of rock-salt, called the Mountain of Cardona (see BARCELONA). Marbles and minerals are found in the mountains, with jaspers and alabas ters, the finest at Tortosa and Cervera. Iron abounds in the Pyrenees, which contain also copper, zinc, and manganese. There are lead mines in various districts, and coal is obtained at Kipoll and Tortosa. The coast, which stretches from S.W. to N.E., and N. about 190 m., is generally bold and rocky. The principal ports are Tarragona, Barcelona, Mataro, and Rosas. Catalonia is said to be the best cultivated province of Spain ; but, although its inhabitants are remarkable for their industry, and for the pains which they take to extract produce from the soil, the province does not supply one-third of its grain consumption, the deficiency, both in corn and cattle, being furnished chiefly by Aragon. Irrigation is carefully attended to, water being in many cases drawn from wells for that purpose. The soil is light, and the cereals pro duced are wheat, rye, maize, barley, oats, and millet. Hemp, flax, saffron, madder, woad, anise, and liquorice, are also grown. Fruits abound ; oranges, lemons, citrons, figs, almonds, apples, pears, cherries, quinces, medlars, apricots, peaches, walnuts, chestnuts, and filberts; the last, known by the name of Barcelona nuts, are exported in great quantities. The wines of Catalonia are strong and rough, and are largely used in adulterating those of Oporto. Some of them, however, are very good ; those of Tarragona, when matured by age, excellent. Timber is plentiful in Catalonia, including the cork tree, which abounds in the forests, and the bark forms a principal article of export. The coasts swarm with fish, the taking of which occupies a great number of persons, and pro duces excellent sailors, the Catalonians being reckoned the best seamen of the Mediterranean. Catalonia manufactures silk and woollen goods to a con siderable extent. The cotton manufacture commenced in 1 769, but has progressed slowly, notwithstanding the efforts of a society which was formed in Barcelona in 1780 for its encou ragement. Linen, paper, hats, cordage, soap, glass, sheet-iron, and shoes are also manufactured in the province. The dis tillation of brandy is carried on to a great extent. Smuggling is universal : Everybody smuggles, especially the custom house officers, commissioners, and preventive guards. The plea of protecting the infant manufactures of the country, by heavy duties, against foreign wares, is the official cloak under which prohibited goods are clandestinely introduced. The English import into Spain about a million and a half in value, and take at least double in wine, oil, fruit, and other Spanish produce. (Murray s Handbook of Spain) The people of Catalonia are of a different race from the rest of Spain, and the traces of their distinct origin are visible, not only in their language, but in their manners, their dress, and their superior activity and intelligence. In person, the Catalonian is strong and sinewy, patient under fatigue and privation, brave, daring, and obstinate ; not very cour teous or hospitable to strangers, and extremely rude in his manners. The lower orders are brutal. The men wear long loose cloth, or plush trowsers, of dark colours, a gay silken sash, a short jacket, which, in fine weather, they hang over their shoulders. In winter, they wear a sort of capote, which supplants the Spanish capa. A red or purple cap com pletes their costume. The women are described as being neither handsome nor amiable. Their ordinary dress is a tight boddice, with a handkerchief, or a serge manto on the head. They wear ear-rings so large and heavy as to require to be supported by threads hung over the ears. The entire aspect of Catalonia presents a striking contrast to the other provinces of Spain. Here all is activity, and the traces of a laborious and never-ceasing industry are visible everywhere. The houses and cottages have a snug, comfortable appearance externally, a character which the interior fully maintains, being neat, clean, and well-furnished. Fences are more general, and better kept ; and every one is busily employed in some profitable pursuit or other. Education, however, is miserably neglected, and the bulk of the people being without the means of instruction, are in a state of deplorable igno rance. Their better condition is thus owing entirely to their superior energy of character, and in no degree to superior knowledge. Catalonia was anciently under the dominion of the Romans, who were afterwards dispossessed by the Goths, and they again by the Moors. It was finally reconquered by the Spaniards, when it was divided into departments, and governed by deputed counts. The national liberties were secured by a code of Usages, and the people were represented by local parliaments. In 1040, the sovereignty became hereditary. In 1137, the province was united to Aragon, by the marriage of Eamon Berenguer IV., with Petronila, the heiress of the former. Turbulent, and impatient of restraint, the subse quent history of the Catalonians presents but a series of re bellions, which finally terminated in their subjugation by Philip V., who, after the capture of Barcelona in 1714, sup pressed their ancient cortes, and curtailed their liberties and privileges, having previously laid the country waste by fire and sword. The principal towns are Barcelona, Tarragona, Gerona, Lerida, Reus, Manresa, Tortosa, &c. Pop. 1,283,734. CATAMANDOO, cap. Nepaul. See KHATAMANUOO. CATAMARCA, a dep. or state, Republic of La Plata, of uncertain dimensions, but lying between the parallels of 25 and 29 S., and the meridians of 66 and 69 W. It is CATANDUANES G28 CATANZAKO bounded, W. by the Andes, which separate it from the N. provinces of Chili ; and on the other sides by the departments Cordova, Rioja, Salta, and Tucuman. It is extremely fer tile, producing abundance of corn and pasture, supplying the surrounding departments with cotton of excellent quality, and sending great quantities of red pepper to Buenos Ayres. Its capital, of same name, is in lat. 27 30 S. ; Ion. 68 W. Pop. of dep. estimated at 35,000; of which number thetn. contains 4000. CATANDUANES, an isl. Indian Archipelago, one of the Philippines, off S.E. coast Luzon ; lat. (N.E. point) 14 13 N.; Ion. 124 10 E.; about 44 in. long, and 20 broad. It is fertile, well cultivated, and watered by several rivers; the principal of which is called the Catadangan. The sands of the streams are auriferous. The inhabitants are indus trious, make good sailors, and excel in boatbuilding, disposing of their boats to the people of the neighbouring islands. The women are of the same stature as the men, and envelope them selves in a long loose mantle when they go abroad, making on such occasions, also, a great display of jewellery. CATANIA, a prov. Sicily, bounded, N. by prov. Messina, E. by the Mediterranean, S. by Syracuse, W. by Caltanisetta, and N. W. by Palermo ; length, N. to S., about 45 m. ; breadth, 33 m. The province is partly intersected by spurs of the Neptunian range ; but its principal mountain is Mount Etna, in its N.E. part. The S. part of the province is formed by the plains of Catania, esteemed the most fertile district in Sicily, and traversed N.W. to S.E. by the Giaretta or Simettus, the largest river in the province. Grain, wine, oil, fruit, hemp, and flax are produced ; amber is found in large quantities on the banks of the Giaretta, and excellent marble is obtained from the hills; all of which, with soda, cheese, shumac, cantharides, manna, and silk, form articles of commerce. The province is divided into the three districts of Catania, Calatagirone, and Nicosa, which are subdivided into 26 circondario, and again into 65 comune. Pop. about 300,000. CATANIA, a tn. E. coast isl. Sicily, cap. above prov., 17 m. S.S.E. the crater of Mount Etna, 31 m. N.N.W. Syra cuse, on the gulf of its name ; lat. (Mole) 37 28 18" N. ; Ion. 15 5 12" E. (R.) This ancient and celebrated city was almost totally destroyed by the earthquake of 1693, and on three several occasions it suffered severely from volcanic eruptions ; but it has been rebuilt in a style greatly superior to the generality of Italian cities. It is nobly situate on the roots of Etna, its despoiler and its benefactor. Overwhelmed as it has often been by torrents of liquid tire, it has risen, like the phoenix, more splendid from its ashes. The very sub stance which once ravaged its plains, has, by its own decom position, covered them with soil fertile as the fabled garden II IK 3QUARKOF TH of the Hespcrides; and on all sides the material of destruction is turned to the purposes of ornament and utility. The streets are paved with lava ; houses, palaces, and churches are built of lava ; of lava they form ornamental chimney pieces, tables, and a variety of toys ; whilst a natural mole of lava defends the shipping from the fury of the tempest. The plan of the city is superb, and no one is permitted to deviate from it. (Hughes.) The two principal streets are long and broad, and intersected at right angles by the streets of the second class. The squares are spacious and regular, and, like the streets, paved with lava. One of them contains an antique statue of an elephant bearing an obelisk. The houses, in general, are well built, and most of the public edifices have an air of grandeur ob servable in but a few Sicilian towns. The palace of the senate is esteemed a model of architecture. The cathedral is also a fine building. It was founded in 1094, by Count Roger, and rebuilt after being partially destroyed by the earthquake of 1693. There are 49 churches, 19 monasteries, and 11 convents; among which, the Benedictine monastery of St. Nicholas has long been celebrated for its riches, and for the splendour of its various buildings. There are also several hos pitals, a foundling hospital, a mmit-de-piete, a handsome theatre, several public libraries, and some interesting museums. The university, founded by Alphonso of Aragon in 1445, is an extensive establishment, numerously attended, and enjoying great privileges. Catania is the seat of a bishopric, a court of appeal, a high court of justiciary, and a civil tribunal. ! The principal authorities of the province reside here. The j inhabitants are said to be distinguished for their urbanity, and ; for the courtesy they manifest towards strangers. They were ! enlightened enough to introduce the culture of the potato, when a strong prejudice existed against it in the country, and they had the merit of introducing inoculation as early as 1742. The manufacture of silk forms the principal branch of industry carried on in the town. Several thousand indi viduals are engaged, also, in manufacturing the amber found on the banks of the Giaretta. The snow of Mount Etna is : another source of wealth, and is exported to a large extent. The climate is salubrious, and suitable for the culture of wheat, grapes, fruit, &c. Grain, potatoes, olives, figs, almonds, silk, wine, oil, soda, manna, cantharides, lava, snow, and the manufactured products of the town, among which are articles in coral, agate, and lava, are exported. Catania is supposed to have been founded by the Phoenicians. It was occupied by the Romans under the name of Cutana, and by them it was adorned with edifices of great magnificence, most of which, however, have been destroyed by earthquakes, and by the lava from Mount Etna. The ruins of the amphi theatre, which was more extensive than the Colosseum at Rome, or than any other edifice of the same kind now known to exist, are still to be seen, as also the remains of the theatre, baths, aqueducts, sepulchral chambers, hippodrome, and several temples. Besides being destroyed by the earthquake of 1693, the town again suffered from a similar calamity in 1783 and 1818; and, so late as 1846, an earth quake rent many of its houses. Its population is said to have Diminished upwards of 1 1,000 be- A (ween the years 1832 and 1839. At the latter period it was esti mated at 36,000. The GULF, commencing N. at La Trizza, ex tends S. to Santa Croce 17 m., forms a semicircle, of which a line drawn between the points above named, would be the chord. The gulf forms a dentation on the coast about 10m. deep. CATANZAKO [anc. Cata- cium], a tn. Naples, cap. prov. Calabria Ultra II., on a moun tain, 5m. from the Gulf of Squil- iace. It contains a citadel, 11 churches, a cathedral, several con vents, a seminary, a royal aca demy of sciences, a lyceum, three hospitals, and a wealthy mont de plete. Silk, velvet, cloth, and other tissues aro manufactured. Some trade is done in wheat, wine, oil, and agricultural produce. The inhabitants bear a high character for affability and industry; and the women are esteemed the handsomest in Calabria. The towi CATAPULICHE 629 CATSKILL is the sea! of a bishopric, and of one of the four great civil courts of the kingdom, a high court of justiciary, and a dis trict civil court. It suffered severely from the earthquake of 1783. Pop. 13,598. CATAPULICHE, a river, S. America, rising on the E. side of the Chilian Andes, ahout lat. 39 15 S. ; and, after a course of 58 m., almost due S., through the S.W. extremity of La Plata, falling into the Rio Negro about lat. 40 3 S. CATARKOJA, a vil. Spain, prov. of, and 6 m. S. Valen cia, r. bank, Torrente. Its houses are generally spacious, and commodiously arranged for an agricultural population. It has three squares, a good-looking townhouse, and several other special buildings, including a large storehouse, a church, and two schools. Pop., almost exclusively agricultural, 3580. CATAWBA, WATEREE, or SANTEE, a river, U. States, rising in N. Carolina, in the Blue Mountains, near Morganton, running E. and then S. into S. Carolina, where it is known for some distance as the Wateree, till, after the confluence of (he Broad River, when it takes the name of Santee, runs E. by S., and, after a course of 270 m., falls by two mouths into (lie sea, between Charleston and Georgetown. CATBALOGAN, a tn. Philippines, cap. of isl. and prov. Samar, W. coast; lat. 11 52 N. ; Ion. 124 50 E. ; in a small bay which has about 5 fathoms water. It is regularly built, the houses generally of nipa palm, with a small num ber of stone. It has also a church and a townhouse. P. 6328. CATEAU (LE), or CATEAU-CAMBRESIS, a tn. France, dep. Nord, 15 m. E.S.E. Cambray, r. bank, Selle. It was formerly fortified, and had a feudal castle, but is now an in dustrious little manufacturing town, producing cotton and woollen yarn, merinoes, cambric, shawls, starch, black soap, and earthenware. It has also tanneries, several breweries, distilleries, a salt refinery, brass and iron foundries, and tan- mills. A considerable trade is done in the above articles, and in the agricultural produce of the district. It has a communal college. The treaty between France and Spain, known in di plomatic history as the Treaty of Gateau- Cambresis, was signed here in 1565. Pop. 7571. C ATEL (THE) , or Sx.M ART J>E CASTRO, par. , isl. Guernsey. Pop. 2038. CATEKHAM, par. Eng. Surrey; 2610 ac. Pop. 477. CATERINA-SANTA, & tn. and com. Sicily, prov. of, and 8 m. N.N.W. Caltanisetta, near r. bank, Salso. It is a forti fied place of the fifth class, and has a manufactory of fine earthenware. Fine agates and jaspers are found in the neigh bourhood. Pop. 5700. CATERLI, a maritime tn. Asiatic Turkey, on the sea of Marmara, 175 m. N.N.E. Smyrna; lat. 40 38 N. ; Ion. 29 5 E. CATESBY, par. Eng. Notts; 1990 ac. Pop. 105. CATFIELD, par. Eng. Norfolk; 2400 ac. Pop. 655. CATHARINA (SANTA), a small maritime prov., isl., and bay, Brazil. The PROVINCE, in the S. of the empire, is bounded, N. by prov. Sao-Paulo, E. by the Atlantic, S. and W. by Rio- Grande -do- S2o- Pedro, from which it is separated by the mountain-ridge of Santa Catharina, the commencement of the Brazilian coast range, and including the isl. of same name, and several smaller ones on the coast ; length, N. to S., 240 m. ; breadth, E. to W., 120 to 60 m.; area, 31,746 sq. m. It is composed of a series of valleys, running W. to E., formed by spurs of the boundary mountain-range, and flowed through by numerous streams, of which Rio-S2o-Francisco, Aracary, Tapecu, Tijuca, Tubar2o, &c., may be named, all falling into the Atlantic. The soil, though in the lower lands some times sandy, is remarkably fertile ; the climate mild, and the seasons regular. Sugar, rice, mandioca, millet, beans, onions of immense size, and garlic, are the chief cultivated products, considerable quantities of which are exported to Rio-de- Janeiro. The indigo and cochineal plant grow spontaneously, and wheat and lint give good returns. The province is well wooded, producing excellent timber both for the joiner and cabinet-maker. The Indians claim the supremacy over some of the forests, which are likewise frequented by ounces, coatis, monkeys, pigs, and other animals. Birds are numerous, in cluding several varieties of humming birds ; and the lakes and rivers are frequented by innumerable geese and other water-fowl. Some of the rivers are beatable for a short dis tance from the sea ; and many might be rendered much more serviceable than they now are for the purposes of inland transit, were they freed from obstacles easily removable. The Legislative Assembly is composed of 20 members. Pop. 90,000. The ISLAND, 3 m.to 7 m. from the coast, is 37 m. N. to S., and about 10 m. E. to W. ; lat. (S. end) 27 47 S. ; Ion. 48 40 W. It is fortified, and is of irregular figure, hilly, and has on its coasts numerous islets, some of which are also fortified. On its E. coast is no secure port, but between the island and the mainland is a commodious sheltered bay. Its soil is fertile ; the higher grounds yielding coffee, wheat, mil let, and European fruits ; and the lower grounds yield rice. Ipecacuanha grows spontaneously, and bananas, oranges, melons, &c., flourish; and the garden fruits are esteemed the best in Brazil. But little attention is paid to cultivation ; commerce there is almost none ; and the people are in a poor condition. Pop. 12,000. The BAY, formed between the island and the mainland, is separated into two divisions by projecting spits of land. It is sheltered from every wind ex cept the N.E., and its depth varies from 3 ft. to 30 fathoms. Wood, water, and provisions, are to be obtained on it. CATHCART, a par. and two vils. Scotland, co. Renfrew. The VILLAGES of Old and New Cathcart, adjoining each other, are nearly 3 m. S. Glasgow, near the river Cart, and have a pop., respectively, of 174 and 280. The PARISH is 5 m. by 1. Pop., vils. inclusive, 2349; (1851), 2920. CATHEDINE, par. Wales, Brecon; 1567 ac. Pop. 175. CATHERINE, or CATHERINES, several isls.: 1, A group of three small low islands, S. Pacific Ocean, Gillolo Passage; lat. 39 S. ; Ion. 129 11 E. 2, Catherines (St.), an isl., U. States, Georgia, off the mouth of the New port River, between St. Catherine s Sound on the N., and Sapelo Sound on the S. It is 10 m. long and 5 broad. 3, Several small islets off the extreme S. point of Boothia Felix ; lat. 69 20 37" N. ; Ion. 94 31 55" W. CATHERINE (ST.), two pars. England : 1, Glouces ter; 200 ac. Pop. 1615. 2, Somerset; 750 ac. Pop. 159. CATHER1NGTON, par. Eng. Southampton, Hants; 3540 ac. Pop. 1003. CATHEKSTON-LEWSTON, par. Eng. Dorset; 90 ac. P. 36. CATMORE, par. Eng. Berks ; 680 ac. Pop. 96. CATOCHE (CAPE), a headland, Central America, form ing the N.E. extremity of the peninsula of Yucatan; lat. 21 36 N. ; Ion. 87 6 W. (R.) This is the first place on the American continent at which the Spaniards landed, and within 6 m. of which, according to the authority of Bernal Dias, they saw a large town, which they named Grand Cairo. CATORCE, a tn. Mexican Confederation, state of, and 120 m. N. San-Luis-de-Potosi. In the neighbourhood are extensive silver mines, formerly the richest in Mexico. CATRAL, a tn. Spain, Valencia, prov. of, and 23 m. S.W. by W. Alicante, in a large and fertile plain, slightly elevated on the E. It is regularly built, and has a church, townhouse, prison, two schools, a poorhouse, and cemetery Trade: in wines, oil, grain, and hemp. Pop. 2268. CATRIMANI, or CARITAMINI, a river, Brazil, prov. Para, rising in a mountain range which forms a continua tion of the sierra Carumani, about lat. 2 N. ; and after a S.E. course of about 100 m., falling into the Rio Branco, near Carmo, in lat. 28 N. ; Ion. 62 8 W. Its bed is much impeded by rocks and cataracts ; and at about 60 m. from its mouth is a settlement of Panishana Indians. CATRINE, a vil. Scotland, co. of, and 10 m. E. Ayr. It is regularly laid out, with a large square in the centre, and streets diverging from it to the E., S. and W., which again are crossed by others at right angles. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in cotton spinning, which is here extensively carried on. Pop. 2700. CATSFIELD, par. Eng. Sussex ; 2430 ac. Pop. 589. CATSKILL MOUNTAINS, a mountain range, U. States, New York, commencing near the Hudson, and bending N.W. in the form of a crescent towards the Mohawk. Round Top, the highest summit, is 3804 ft. above sea level. These mountains, which are precipitous on the E. and gently slop ing towards the W., are inhabited by bears, wolves, and other wild animals. CATSKILL, a tn. U. States, New York, 34 m. S. Al bany, pleasantly built on both sides the creek near its junc tion with the Hudson. It contains the county buildings, five churches, 19 schools, two banks, grist and saw-mills, two paper-mills, one brewery, an extensive sash factory, several CATTARO CAUCASUS docks, and various mechanic establishments. It is a place of considerable trade, and exports large quantities of sole leather, grain, flour, butter, brick, hay, timber, flax-seed, pot and pearl ashes, beef, tallow, hides, &c. Pop. 2800. CATTARO, a seaport tn. Austria, Dalmatia, S.E. ex tremity, gulf of same name, 38m. S.E.Ragusa; lat 42 25 24" N. ; Ion. 18 46 30" E. (R.) It lies at the foot of steep lime stone rocks, strongly fortified, and surmounted by a castle connected with the town by means of a zig-zag path. It is also surrounded with walls entered by three gates, and de fended by towers. The buildings are in the Venetian style, and the streets narrow, irregular, and dark. It is the seat of a R. Catholic bishop, and the cathedral is a well-built edifice of hewn stone. There is likewise a Greek church. Cattaro is the seat of courts of justice, and the residence of a military Governor. Its harbour is spacious but little frequented, the export trade being inconsiderable. Outside the E. gate is the market, frequented by the Montenegrins, who cross the mountain ridge, bringing butter, eggs, cheese, potatoes, dried fish, smoked meat, sheep, oxen, pigs, vegetables, wax, honey; tallow, hides, wool, tortoise shells, fowls, Indian corn, ice, i rait, Turkish and Montenegrin tobacco, charcoal, &c. The climate is oppressively hot in summer, and excessively wet in winter. Cattaro stands on the site of the Roman Ascrivium. It was founded in the sixth century, and was formerly capital of a republic of same name. In 1563, and in 1677, it was nearly destroyed by earthquakes. Pop. 4000. (Paton s Highlands and Islands of the Adriatic; Wilkinson s Dalmatia and Mon tenegro.} The GULF is an extensive and peculiarly formed harbour in the Adriatic, and well defended both by nature and art. It is composed of three basins or lakes connected by narrow channels, under half a mile wide, while the outer en trance to the first basin is only about 1 m. wide, lessening to under a mile. The first basin, of irregular form, is about 3 m. long by about 2 m. broad ; the second somewhat tri angular in shape, is about 6 m. by 5 m. in its greatest extent ; and the third about 8 m. by 3 m. greatest dimensions, forms two smaller basins, from tile most S. of which proceeds a long narrow arm, at the extreme end of which lies the town of Cattaro. The entrance to the gulf is somewhat difficult. CATTEGAT. See KATTEGAT. CATTERICK, a vil. and par. England, York, N. Riding. The VILLAGE, which stands on a plain near the Swale, consists of one street well kept ; houses mostly of brick, of a respectable appearance ; ample supply of good water. It has a parish church, an old Gothic structure ; a Methodist chapel, an aca demy, and an endowed school. The people are almost wholly employed in agriculture. The Catterick Bridge Station of the York, Newcastle, and Berwick Railway is about 1 m. from the village. Area of par. 21,680 ac. Pop. 2965. (Local Correspondent.} CATTHORPE, par. Eng. Leicester ; 520 ac. Pop. 1 67. CATTISTOCK, par. Eng. Dorset; 2620 ac. Pop. 549. CATTOLICA, a tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 14 m. N.W. Girgenti, near an affluent of the Platani. To the N. of the town both sulphur and rock salt are extensively worked. Pop. 7060. CATTON, two pars. England : 1 , Norfolk ; 760 ac. Pop. 050. 2, York, E. Riding; 8150 ac. Pop. 1078. CATWICK (GREAT), an isl. China Sea. 128 m. E. Cape St. James, off the coast of Cochin-China ; lat. 10 6 N. ; Ion. 10852 E. (R.) CATWICK, par. Eng. York, E. Hiding; IGSOac. P. 191. CATWORTH (GREAT) par. Eng. Huntingdon ; 2090 ac. Pop. 637. CAUAMBE, or GAUME, a river, Brazil, prov. Para, fall ing into the Rio Branco, from the W. at San Isabel ; lat. 253 N.; Ion. 61 10 W. CAUB. See KAUB. CAUB, atn. Nassau, bail. St. Goarshausen, r. bank, Rhine, 22 m. W. by N. Mentz, and at the foot of a steep slate hill. It has a church, and its inhabitants live by cultivating the vine, traffic on the Rhine, and by trading and working the ex cellent slates of the vicinity. To the Pfalz castle, a stronghold on a rock in the river opposite the towrr, the ladies of the Electors Palatine of the Rhine used to go to be confined. A toll is still levied at this castle for Nassau, a remnant of the exactions that were formerly made upon all the traffic on the river passing this castle. Pop. 1502. C AITT L. -S ,,. CACOOL. . CAUCA, an old dep. New Granada, bounded by the deps. Isthmus, Magdalena, and Cundinamarca, by the republic of Ecuador, and by the Caribbean Sea, and the Pacific. Area estimated at 68,300 sq. m. Pop. 193,000; divided into the four provinces of Popayan, Choco, Buenaventura, and Pasto. CAUCA, a river, New Granada, which rises in that part of the Andes called Paramo-de-Guanacas, waters the provinces of Popayan, Antioquia, and Cartagena, and after a course of about 600 m. S. to N. between the central and W. Cordillera of the Andes, falls into the Magdalena, between the small towns of Pinto and Tacaloa, in lat. 9 25 N. Of its numerous tributaries the Nechi which joins it on the right is the largest, and of the towns on its bunks the most considerable are Cali, Toro, and Antioquia. The VALLEY of the Cauca is one of the richest, most fertile, and most populous districts in S. America. It consists of two plateaux of very different eleva tion and temperature. The soil is deep, the pastures rich, and the lands well cultivated. Cattle of a superior description are reared in great numbers ; and the fields and farm-houses pre sent an appearance of opulence and comfort. On all sides, the earth, tinged with red and yellow, indicates the presence of gold, many mines of which precious metal are found here, all situate in the upper part of the valley. CAUCASUS, a gov. Russia, bounded, N. by govs. Don Cossacks and Astrakhan, E. Caspian Sea, S. Circassia, and E. Cossacks of the Black Sea; greatest length, N.W. to S.E. about 380 m.; greatest breadth, N. to S. 170 m. It is tra versed N. to. S. near its centre, by a low ramification of the Caucasus Mountains, but with this exception, the surface is flat, consisting generally of an alluvion, which towards the E. appears to be of very recent formation. It is not traversed by any river of importance (the Kuma, since the lower part of its course was lost in the sand, no longer deserves the name), but is watered on part of its N. frontier by the Maritsch, and on the S. by the Kuban and Terek. The climate is in general very mild, and there are some fertile tracks particularly in the neighbourhood of the Terek, but great part of the alluvial flats is covered with salt pools and marshes, which make the soil when they prevail, altogether unfit for cultivation. The injury is, in some measure, compensated by the large quan tities of excellent salt which is obtained from them. Some of the steppes yield tolerable pasture, on which numerous herds of cattle are reared. The chief products of the soil are corn, including maize, and wine. The mulberry thrives well, and considerable attention has recently been paid to the rear ing of silk-worms. Bees also are carefully attended to, and the honey and wax obtained from them, forms a considerable article of export. Owing to the neighbourhood of the war like mountaineers of the Caucasus, a considerable army is always maintained within the government, and most of its towns are fortified. The cap. is Georgievsk. Pop. 526,400. CAUCASUS, an extensive and lofty range of mountains, the centre chain of which stretches N.W. to S.E. for about 700 m. between the Black Sea and the Caspian, and there forms the boundary between Europe and Asia. From the central chain numerous branches are thrown off. One of them to the N. proceeds through the government of Caucasus into Astrakhan, and onward to the banks of the Volga, while the branches to the S. traverse the greater part of the government of Georgia, and in the S. of that government, link on with the mountains of Ararat. The highest point in the range is Mount Elburz, which stands near the middle of the central chain, and has an altitude of about 18,000 ft. The next highest is Mount Kasbek, 16,000 ft., across which is the celebrated Eng Pass, which gives Russsia her only carriage communication with her Trans- Caucasian domains. The N. side of the range is much more abrupt than the S. Great part of the mountains still remains to be geologically examined, but an admirable section is furnished by the Eng Pass, and has been fully described, particularly by Wagner, who not only travelled over it, but resided several months among the mountains of Kasbek, and ascended them to the limit of per petual snow. According to him, stratified rocks appear at the bottom of the mountains, and rise to a considerable height on their sides. These rocks consist chiefly of thick beds of limestone, conglomerate, and clay slate. Higher up are seen immense crystalline masses composed of granite, sienite, ser pentine, and gabronite. These masses, though higher in posi- CAUCASUS 631 CAUKA tion, are evidently lower in the geological series than the stratified rocks, which in many places have been upheaved by them, and in consequence have a considerable dip. Highest of all is trachytic porphyry, which forms the great body of MOUNT KLBEOU3. Her I rmte Gffguire ( all the principal summits of the central range. That this trachyte is the most recent of all the rocks is proved by the fact, that in many places it is seen piercing them, and throw ing them into the wildest confusion. Judging from the com position and general appearance of these great trachytic masses, irumboldt and other celebrated geologists are of opinion that the Caucasus, and all the loftiest summits of the great moun tain-ranges of both hemispheres, were upheaved contempor aneously, and within a comparatively recent period. The limit of perpetual snow in the Caucasus is 11,000 ft., and hence, as some of the mountains rise from 5000 to nearly 7000 ft. above this, there is an extensive range for glaciers. It would seem, however, that the supply of moisture which (he atmosphere affords, is far less than might have been anti cipated. Scarcely a sinple lake of any extent is to be found in the Caucasus, and the scenery thus remains destitute of that which constitutes one of the most magnificent features in the Alps of Switzerland. In height and magnitude, Mont Blanc must yield to many mountains of the Caucasus, but in all the other essentials of sublimity, it still remains unrivalled. Numerous cascades tumble down the N. steeps of the Cau casus, but none of them are remarkable either for volume or height, and the only rivers of any consequence which are fed by them are the Terek, Kuban, and Kur. The minerals of the Caucasus, so far as may be judged from the very imperfect examination of them which has been made, are not of great value. It was at one time supposed that gold abounded, but a worthless material of the same colour, called cat gold, ap pears to have been mistaken for it. The only mineral which has yet been ascertained to exist in such quantities as to make it capable of being worked to profit is lead. Vegetation is very vigorous. Magnificent forest trees clothe the higher mountain slopes almost to an incredible height ; lower down all the finer fruit trees of the climate are found growing in wild luxuriance ; while lower still, where human labour can be made available, almost any degree of culture, however imperfect, is rewarded with an abundant crop. The ordinary cereals grow 7000 ft. above sea level, while valuable shrubs, plants, and flowers, in almost endless variety, deck the valleys and lower plains. Animal is not less vigorous than vegetable life, and the forests abound with almost every species of game among quadrupeds, wolves, boars, jackals, deer, goats, and hares among birds, pheasants, and partridges. A large species of wild cattle, called aurochs, roam at large, and the hares of the Caucasus have been famed from the remotest antiquity. The inhabitants include a great variety of tribes, the principal of which are the Tcherkesscs or Circassians, Georgians, Ossetes, Lesghians, and Abkases. Evidently de rived from a variety of stocks, and speaking a variety of languages, they are all distinguished by one noble quality an almost inextinguishable love of freedom, and in bodily constitutiou are at once so robustly and so elegantly framed, that what is known as the Cau casian race is universally acknow ledged to be the finest physical type of man. (Wagner s Kaiika- sus; Koch s Karte Von dem Kau- kasischen Isthmus, t&c.) CAUCASUS (INDIAN). See HINDOO COOSH. CAUDEBEC, a seaport tn. France, dep. Seine-Inferieure, 18 m. N.W. Rouen, r. bank, Seine, ^^^Egj-^ at the embouchure of the Caude- bec. Though commodious, and i avourably situate between Rouen and Havre, the port is little fre- jSBjfijjPflf^ quented. The town has old walls ^ffijjg^ 3-^{?r; and ruined fortifications, a parish ll^s- church, built in the 15th century, remarkable for the elegance and delicacy of its architecture; and manufactures of sailcloth, starch, leather, and soap ; cotton mills, bleacheries, and tanneries; with a considerable trade in ship bis cuit, grain, fruit, poultry, &c. Prior to the emigration of the Protestants, after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, Caudebec was famed for its manufac ture of hats. Pop. 2332. CAUDEROM, a pretty little vil. France, dep. Gironde, about 2 m. from Bordeaux, surrounded by numerous country scats, and much frequented on holidays by the inhabitants of Bordeaux. Pop. 1485. CAUDETE, a tn. Spain, New Castile, prov. of, and 50 m. N.E. Albacete. It has three squares, a townhouse, prison, and several fountains, a parish church, Carmelite convent, and a hermitage, used as a chapel for the cemetry. Agriculture and distilling brandy are the main occupations. Pop. 5502. CAUDRY, a vil. France, dep. Nord, 8 m. from Cambrai; with manufactures of tulle. Pop. 3310. CAUFIRISTAN. See KAFIEISTAN. CAULABAGH, or KALLABAGH, a tn. Punjab, in tho Salt Eange, 68 m. S.E. Peshawur ; lat. 33 12 N.; Ion. 71 35 E. ; built on terraces cut out of the declivity of a hill close by the Indus, which is here about 400 yds. wide, deep and rapid. In the vicinity are huge masses of rock salt, in which, and in alum, the inhabitants carry on an extensive trade with tho neighbouring provinces. CAULDON, par. Eng. Stafford ; 1570 ac. Pop. 326. CAUMONT, several vils. France:!, dep. Calvados, 23 m. S.W. Caen; with some trade in poultry. Pop. 910. 2, dep. Eure, 21 m. from Pont-Audemer, near 1. bank, Seine; with stone quarries, wool-spinning, and trade in apples. Pop. 930. 3, dep. Lot-et-Garonne, 4 m. S. Marinande, on a height overlooking the Garonne, and formerly an important fortification. Pop. 1664. 4, dep. Vaucluse, 18 m. from Avignon, beautifully situate in a fertile district on the Durance, surrounded by walls, and commanded by a castle. The rear ing of silk-worms, and some trade in olive-oil, and excellent dried fruits, are carried on. Pop. 3914. CAUNDLE, four pars. Eng. Dorset : 1 , Caundle (Bishop), 2050 ac. Pop. 365. 2, Caundle (J/ars/0 , 440 ac. Pop. 77. 3, Caundle (Purse], 1610ac. Pop. 183. 4, Caundle (Stour- ton), 2680 ac. Pop. 394. CAUNES (LES), a tn. France, dep. Aude, 13 m. N.E. Carcassonne, 1. bank, Argent-Double. It has a fine church, formerly belonging to the Benedictine abbey, founded in 791, and suppressed at the Revolution of 1793. Cloth and brandy are made here, and in the vicinity are extensive marble quar ries. Pop. 2040. CAUNTON, par. Eng. Nottingham; 3130. Pop. 539. CAURA, a considerable river, Venezuelan Guaiana, formed by the junction of the Yurani, Erevato, Mareguare and their tributaries, which take their rise in the sierra Pari- ma, near the centre of the territory. The Caura is formeJ CAUSSADE CAVANAS about lat. 6 35 N., from which it flows N., but with a very devious course, till it falls into the Oriiioco, at lat. 7 40 N. ; Ion. 66 15 W. Its whole length is about 150 m. CAUSSADE, a tn. France, dep. Tarn-et-Garonne, 13 m. N.E. Montauban. It is agreeably situate, and the suburbs by which the old town is surrounded are well built. Its only noteworthy buildings are the Hotel de Ville, and the parish church. Manufactures : coarse linen, and woollen goods, sugar, and tanneries. Trade : grain, saffron, spirits, prunes, cattle, wool, and agricultural produce. Pop. 2400. CAUTEN, or IMPERIAL, a river, Chili, Araucania T has its sources on the W. slopes of the Andes, in about lat. 38 44 S., from which it flows nearly due W., and falls into the S. Pacific Ocean at lat. 38 48 S. ; showing but a slight difference of parallel between its source and embouchure. Its whole course is about 180 m. It has six or eight large tributaries, some of them not much, if at all, inferior in size to itself. There is a town of the same name situated on its r. bank, and near where it is joined by the Paracahum, lat. 38 45 S. CAUTO, a river, Cuba, near the E. extremity of the island. It has its sources in the sierra de Cobre, near Cauta, about lat. 20 20 N., from which it flows in a N.W. direction for about 45 m., when it bends round to the S.W., and, lat. 20" 30 N., falls into the bay of Buena Esperanza ; total course 70 m. CAUX (PAYS DE) [anc. Pagus Caletensis], a dist. France, formerly a dependency of prov. Normandy, cap. Caudebec. It comprehends the greater part of dep. Seine-Inferieure, com prising, in particular, arrond. Havre, almost the whole of arronds. Dieppe and Yvetot, and part of arrond. Neufehatel. CAVA, a small isl. Scotland, one of the Orkney group, co. Caithness ; lat. 58 55 N. ; Ion. 3 8 W. It is upwards of 3 m. in circumference, and produces good crops of oats and bere. Pop. 21. CAVA, a tn. Naples, prov. Prineipato Citra, agreeably situate in the valley of Fenestra, 3 m. N.W. Salerno. It is the seat of a bishop, suffragan to the Pope, and contains a cathedral, three other churches, a convent, a house of refuge, an hospital, and a seminary. Silk, cotton, and linen are manufactured here, and in the numerous small villages that surround the town. The district is extremely unproductive, but the inhabitants have become wealthy by their industry and commerce. About 1 m. from Cava is the magnificent Benedictine convent of the Trinity, which formerly contained an excellent library, now transferred to Naples. This library, with its archives, was considered the richest in the kingdom. Pop. 13,095. CAVABO, or CABADO, a river, Portugal, which rises in the sierra de Gerez, on the frontiers of Galicia, a little N. Montalegre, flows S.W., passes Barcellos, and falls into the sea at Esponende, after a course of 65 m., of which about 6 m. are navigable. CAVAGLTA, a tn. Sardinian States, Piedmont, division of, and 30 m. N.E. Turin. Pop. 2600. CAVAILLON [anc. Cabdlid], a tn. France, dep. Vau- cluse, 14 m. S.E. Avignon, r. bank, Durance, near the em bouchure of the Coulon. It is agreeably situate, but ill built, with narrow, dirty streets. The only public building of note is the Hotel de Ville. The surrounding district is one vast garden, producing excellent fruit ; in particular, much es teemed melons and peaches. There are numerous silk, madder, and oil-mills ; also manufactures of vermicelli, and of brazen utensils. A considerable trade is carried on in silk, olive-oil, almonds, fruit, madder, &c. A large silk market is held weekly. In the vicinity is a remarkable cavern, in which 4000 sheep are penned during summer. The Eomans had an important colony here, and erected many edifices, of which almost the only remains are some tombs, and the frag ment of a triumphal arch. Pop. 3914. CAVALCANTE, a tn. Brazil, prov. of, and 305 m. N.E. Goyaz, near 1. bank, Parannan, with three churches and a school. The gold mines in the vicinity, formerly rich, are now abandoned as exhausted, and the inhabitants are chiefly engaged in agriculture and cattle-rearing ; the produce is sold in the maritime provinces. Cavalcante is a centre point for travellers and carriers between Mato-Grosso, Goyaz, arid Minas-Geraes. CAVALESE, a tn. and com. Tyrol, prov. of, and 22 m. N.E. Trent, r. bank, Avizzio ; well built, and has a fine parish church adovned with marble pillars. Pop. 2143. CAVALHO, a small isl. W. coast, Africa ; lat. (N. end) 1 1 1 30" N. ; Ion. 15 41 15" W. It is 1 m. long and m. broad, of volcanic origin ; produces in abundance a species of plum, supposed to be anti-scorbutic ; and its coasts swarm with a kind of fish, called cavalho, from which it probably derives its name. CAVALIERE (CAPE), a broad headland, S. coast, Asi atic Turkey, on the Mediterranean ; lat. 36 7 30" N. ; Ion. 33 43 42" E. (B.) It resembles an island, and exhibits cliffs of white marble rising up perpendicularly from the sea to the height of 738 ft., and connected to the main by a low narrow isthmus, which forms a small bay on each side. CAVALLER-MAGGIORE, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 10 m. N.E. Saluces, near 1. bank, Maira. It has two churches and four convents. Pop. 5200. CAVALLY, a tn., point, and river, W. Africa, Guinea Coast, E. of Cape Palmas. The TOWN stands on the point of the same name ; lat. 4 21 12" N. ; Ion. 7 35 35" W. ; with three villages a little to the E. The POINT, which may be distinguished from the adjacent sandy shore by its black rocky appearance, is encompassed by reefs, extending \ m. to sea ward. The EIVEE, a little E. from the town, issues between two low sandy points with a bar before it, which is not always passable by boats. CAVAN, an inland co. Ireland, prov. Ulster, baring, N. Fermanagh, N. and E. Monaghan, S. Meath, Westmeath, and Longford, and W. Leitrim. Extreme length, 51 m. ; extreme breadth, 28 m., although throughout one half its length it does not exceed an average of 6 to 8 m. Area, 477,360 ac., of which 375,473 are arable, 71,918 uncultivated, and 7325 in plantations. The surface is broken, extremely irregular, and in the N. rises into mountainous elevations, while to the N.W. the prospect is bleak and dreary ; the soil is generally light and poor, except along the courses of the streams. Coal, iron, copper, and lead appear to exist, and there are numerous mineral springs, of which that at Swanlinbar is the most cele brated. The lakes are numerous but small, and some of them picturesque with well wooded margins. Agriculture is in a backward state in this county ; draining and irrigation are wholly unknown, the fences are mere ridges of earth, and the ploughing slovenly and inefficient. The chief crops are oats, potatoes, and turnips, but in some districts flax also is grown in considerable quantities, while wheat has become.in many places a more common crop than formerly. The principal manufacture is that of linen, which forms the chief depend ence of many of the inhabitants, almost every family carry ing it on to a greater or less extent. Bleach-greens are con sequently numerous, and although several have ceased opera tions, there are still a good many of these establishments actively employed. The number of national schools in Sept., 1848, was 158, attended by 16,211 children. Principal towns, Cavan, the capital, Cootehill, and Balturbet. The county is divided into eight baronies Castlerahan, Clonker, Clanma- hon, Loughtee, Lower and Upper Tullygarvey, Tullyhaw, and Tullyhunco, and contains 36 parishes. It sends two members to the House of Commons; constituency (1850), 684. Pop. (1851), 174,071. CAVAN, a tn. Ireland, co. Cavan, 57 m. N.W. Dublin, in one of the richest parts of the county. In the principal street are some good houses, but, on the whole, the town has but an indifferent appearance, a large portion of it being com posed of mean-looking buildings and mere cabins, though it is said to be improving. The parish church is a neat structure, with a slender spire. The other public buildings are a R. Catholic chapel, a Presbyterian and a Methodist meeting house, an endowed school founded by Charles I. , municipal and county offices, jail, union workhouse, a courthouse, an infirmary a plain building ,- and a fever hospital. It has also several Sunday and parochial schools, supported by subscrip tion. The trade is inconsiderable ; it includes the manufac ture of a little linen, and a retail business with the surround ing country. Oats and butter are the staple articles of sale. The assizes for the county, general sessions at Hilary and midsummer, and petty sessions every week, are held here. Pop. (1841), 3749. CAVANAS, a port or harbour, Cuba, on the N.W. coasl of that island, 38 m. S.W. Havanna; lat. 23 5 N. ; Ion. 82 55 W. It is a fine deep bay, having its entrance between two extensive reefs. Within there is room enough for several CAVARZERE-DE8TRO-E-8INISTBO 633 C AWN POOR hundred sail of ships. It is protected by a battery of five guns, with a martello tower of one gun in its centre, walled in at the back, with loop holes facing the harbour. CAVARZERE-DESTRO-E-siNiSTRO, a vil. Austrian Italy, gov. of, and 25 m. S.S.W. Venice, traversed by the Adige, which divides it into two parts. It contains a parish and three auxiliary churches, and has a considerable trade in cattle, corn, hay, wood, and silk. Pop. 7000. CAVASO, a market tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, prov. of, and 20 m. N.W. Treviso. It contains a parish church, and several chapels and oratories ; and has manufactures of woollen and linen cloth, and hats, dye-works, and fulling- mills. Pop. 2500. CAVE, two tns. and two pars. England, E. Riding, York: 1, Cave (North), the town, situate on a plain, consists of two principal, regular, and well-kept streets ; houses in the modern style, and built of brick. Amply supplied with ex cellent water. It has a parish church, and a Methodist and a Friends meeting-house, and two schools. Area of par. 63GO ac. Pop. 1217. 2, Cave (South), the town, 2 m. from N. Cave, stands at the foot of a hill called Mount Airy ; and has a parish church, and an Independent and a Methodist meeting-house, and two schools. Good supply of excellent water. In the neighbourhood is Cave Castle, an old Gothic edifice. People chiefly agriculturists. Area of par. 7480 ac. Pop. 1852. (Local Correspondent.) CAVENDISH, par. Eng. Suffolk ; 3450 ac. Pop. 1353. CAVENHAM, par. Eng. Suffolk; 2630 ac. Pop. 277. CAVERS, par. Scot. Roxburgh, 24 m. by 8. Pop. 1709. CAVERSFIELD, par. Eng. Bucks; 1200 ac. Pop. 178. CAVERSHAM, par. Eng. Oxford ; 5100 ac. Pop. 1642. CAVERSWALL, par. Eng. Stafford; 5380ac. Pop. 1505. CAVERY, a river, Hindoostan, to the waters of which Mysore and the Carnatic owe much of their agricultural wealth. It rises from several head streams in Coorg and Mysore, near the coast of Malabar, and between lat. 11 37 and 13 20 N., flows E. through Mysore, Coimbatoor, and the Lower Carnatic, and after a winding E. course of about 450 m., falls into the Bay of Bengal, by numerous mouths, in the province of Tanjore, the plains of which are fertilized by its S. branches. In N. Coimbatoor the Cavery forms an island, called Sivana Samudra, near to which are two magni ficent cataracts. The cataract of Gargana Chuki occurs in the N. Channel, where the water falls over a perpendicular rock 200 ft. high ; the S. cataract, called Birra Chuki, has a fall of 100 ft. in 10 or 12 streams. The Cavery is filled by the monsoon rains in May and July, but is not navigable except ing by small boats. CAVERYPAUK, a tn. Hindoostan, Carnatic, 57 m. W.S.W. Madras; lat. 12 53 N. ; Ion. 79 31 E. It is meanly built, and the adjoining fort, at one time a place of some strength, is now in ruins. A victory was gained here by the British over the French and their allies, in 1754. Near the town is an immense water-tank, 8 m. long by 3 broad , which fertilizes a large tract of country, and is, perhaps, the finest work constructed in S. India for the purpose of irrigation. The tank is faced on the inside with large stones, and supported by a mound of earth 30 ft. high. CAVI,atn. Papal States, 28m. E.S.E. Rome. It stands in a beautiful district, and is finely built on a tufa rock on the slopes of Mount Mcntorella. Near it is a fine modern bridge of seven arches, built over a deep torrent, one of the tributaries of the lacco. Cavi was built by the Colonna as eirly as the llth century, and is memorable for tie peace signed here, in 1557, between the Duke of Alba and the Caraffeschi. Pop. 2000. CAVIANA, an isl. Brazil, prov. Para, in the MUSQU: mouth of the Amazon, N. the isl. of Marajo, on the equator. It is of irregular form, measures 50 m. N.W. to S.E., and about 20 m. broad. It is well wooded. CAVITE, a tn. and prov. isl. Luzon, one of the Philip pines. The TOWN is situated at the extremity of a point of land which projects, in a N.E. direction, into the Bay of Ma nilla, E. coast; lat. 14 29 30" N.; Ion. 120 50 E. (R.) ; about llm. S.W. Manilla. It is capital of the province, is well fortified, and is tl.e place of residence of the governor. VOT-. I. It contains a church, barrack, convent, and hospital ; houses nearly all of stone. A manufactory of cigars, lately estab lished, has added considerably to the commercial importance of the town. Cavite" has a reputation for salubrity, and is much resorted to on this account by invalids from Manilla. Its docks and arsenals were at one time famous, but have been long going to decay. The PROVINCE is situated partly on the Bay of Manilla, which, with the province of Tondo, bounds it on the N., the Lac de Bay on the E., the province of Batangas on the S., and the sea on the "W. It is advan tageously situate, but is not very fertile, although much more could be made of it by a more industrious people than that by which it is inhabited, who are extremely indolent, and so vici ously disposed, that it is said more criminals come from this pro vince than from any other in the island. The chief produc tions are rice, sugar, indigo, and coffee, some of the latter it is said equalling, if not surpassing, that of Mocha. A great variety of fruits likewise are grown, including mangoes, dates, bananas, water-melons, oranges, and lemons. There is also some traffic in cattle, sheep, and swine. Fish is another principal source of subsistence. Cavite" is celebrated for its pastry and confections. Pop. of prov. 84,495. CAVOR, or CAVOUR, a tn. Sardinian States, Piedmont, div. Turin, prov. of, and 7 m. S.S.E. Pinerolo. It stands in a fertile plain at the foot of the Alps, contains a communal college ; and has manufactures of linen ; tanneries, silk-mills, some trade in corn, and two annual fairs. It suffered much by an earthquake in 1808. Marble and slates are quarried in the neighbourhood, Pop. 6000. CAWDOR, a par. Scotland, 4 in. square, chiefly in co. Nairn, but partly in co. Inverness, remarkable only for con taining the remains of the castle in which, as tradition asserts, though on more than doubtful ground, King Duncan was murdered, an event immortalized by Shakespeare. The pre sent castle, a fine specimen of ancient fortalice, was built in the 15th century, rendering it impossible it could be the same in which the Scottish monarch was assassinated, that tragedy having taken place in the llth century, or about 400 years before. Macbeth s second title was TJtane of Cawdor. P. 1212. CAWKWELL, par. Eng. Lincoln ; 540 ac. Pop. 47. CAWNPOOR, or CAUNPORE, a tn. and dist. Hindoostan, presid. Bengal, N.W. provs. The TOWN, r. bank, Ganges, which is here about a mile in breadth, is 115 m. N.W. Alla habad ; lat. 26 30 N. ; Ion. 80 12 E. It is of considerable extent, but is, on the whole, mean-looking and dirty, with exception of the chowk or principal street, which is composed of well-built brick houses, two or three stories high, with balconies in front. Hardly any of its temples or mosques are worth noticing, with exception of one small musjid, an elegant little structure, ornamented with three egg-shaped domes, a large one in the centre, and a smaller on each side, nnd having a tall and graceful minaret at either end. Saddlery, harness, gloves, and jewellery are manufactured here to some extent. Cawnpoor is one of the most important military stations in India. The cantonments extend along the r. bank of the Ganges for nearly 7 m., comprising many hundrec. bungalows, the barracks for the troops, and the bazaars, the CAWOOD G34 CAYENNE whole presenting a very imposing appearance. Several of the bungalows are most picturesquely situate on the lofty banks of the river, which here rise to a height of 1 00 ft. ; they are fitted up luxuriously, and have extensive gardens, in which tamarinds, mangoes, bananas, neemes, acacias, and fig-trees overshadow a rich expanse of flowers, of the most brilliant colours and grateful perfume. The bungalows are mostly built of cucha or sun-baked bricks, and roofed with tiles or thatch ; the latter, however, is preferred, on account of its keeping the apartments much cooler, the tiles becoming so heated by the sun as to render the house inside like an oven. Within the cantonments are a handsome suit of assembly-rooms, sup ported by voluntary subscription; and a commodious and elegant theatre, a public drive, called the Course, a fashionable resort after sunset ; a race-course, and several club-rooms. There are here, also, a Protestant church, a R. Catholic chapel, and schools for the children of the soldiers. Cawnpoor is well supplied with every description of goods, both Euro pean and native, which are to be had on very moderate terms. In May and June the thermometer ranges from 98 to 104; and in the winter months falls as low as 42 at night, but in the day stands at 70. During at least half the year, the roads through and about the cantonment are ankle-deep in dust, which, when a N.W. wind blows, is whirled into the air in dense clouds, so thick, that frequently an object cannot be seen half a dozen yards off; totally obscuring the sun, and penetrating into every room in the house, notwithstanding the precaution of instantly closing every door and window. About 2 m. N.E. stands the old town of Cawnpoor, where there is a long range of handsome ghauts, adorned with a few temples, and terminated by the palace of the Rajah, a striking and picturesque object, but now falling into ruin. The military force quartered at Cawnpoor usually amounts to 8000 men, of various arms. The DISTRICT, composed of cessions to the British Government by the Nabob of Oude, is bounded, E. by the Ganges, and on the other sides by the districts of Etawah, Futtehpoor, and Bundelcund ; area, 2650 sq. m. ; flat, but productive in wheat, barley, maize, rice, sugar-cane, cotton, grain, Indian millet, and indigo. Potatoes, pease, cauliflower, and many other vegetables grow in the gardens, but the former are insipid. CAWOOD, a par. and vil. England, York, W. Riding. The village, situate on the Ouse, about 9J m. S. York, is remarkable only for having been long the residence of the archbishops of York, who had here a magnificent palace ; and for having been the place of retirement of Cardinal Wolsey after his fall, and where he was arrested by the Earl of Nor thumberland on a charge of high treason. Area of par. 2840 ac. Pop. 1108. CAWSTON, par. Eng. Norfolk ; 4430 ac. Pop. 1130. CAWTHORNE, par. Eng. York, W. Riding; 3440 ac. Pop. 1437. CAWTHORPE (LITTLE), par. Eng. Lincoln; 780 ac. Pop. 197. CAXA DE MUERTOS [the coffin, or dead-chest], a small i.sl. Caribbean Sea, off the S. coast, Porto Rico, about 6 m. from the shore ; lat. 17 50 N. ; Ion. 66 31 W. (R.) It has a very conspicuous and remarkable appearance, much resem bling a coffin ; whence its name. The shore towards Porto Rico is flat and sandy; on the S. side it is high and stoney. There is no fresh water on it, nor trees of any kind, but for fuel. Fish and turtle abound here, the latter laying their eggs in the sandy bays. CAXAMARCA, a tn. Peru, dep. Libertad, cap. prov. of same name, 80 in. N.E. Truxillo; lat. 7 7 S.; Ion. 78 31 W.; in a valley, E. face of the Andes, on a small river of its own name, a tributary of the Maraiion. The streets are broad and straight; the houses, built of earth, are tiled and whitewashed ; churches numerous, and being built of richly- cut stone, and ornamented with cupolas and spires, have a very elegant appearance. Manufactures : woollens, linens, cottons, sword-blades, daggers, and other articles of steel, and of the precious metals. A considerable trade is carried on with places on the coast, to which Caxamarca furnishes its own manufactures, and whence in return it receives those of Europe. In the environs are some thermal springs and baths, used by the Incas, and still much resorted to. Here are the ruins of the ancient palace of Atahnalpa, the last Emperor of Peru, in the prison chapel of which he was assassinated by the Spaniards. Pop. 7000. The PROVINCE, area, 21G5 sq. m., is traversed by the chain of the W. Cordillera, in which rise a great number of rivers, all affluents of the Maranon. The people are employed in agriculture, the rearing of cattle, the manufacture of coarse cloths, the working of mines, and washing for gold. Pop. 85,000. CAXAMAKQUILLA, a tn. in N. Peru, prov. Pataz, dep. of, and 100 m. E.N.E. Truxillo. Pop. 8000. CAXATAMBO, a tn. Peru, in dep. Junin, cap. prov. of same name, 140 m. N.N.E. Lima; W. the foot of the Cordil leras, in a fertile valley, traversed by one of the arms of the Barranca. The spinning of woollen yarn, and trade, occupy the inhabitants. Pop. 3000. The PROVINCE, area, 1494 sq. m., is mountainous, has a rigorous climate, and is one of the poorest and most barren in Peru. From the traces of ancient cultivation, the remains of aqueducts, and the vast ruins of towns and villages, it would appear that before the arrival of the Spaniards this country was in a very flourishing condition. The sides of the mountains still afford good pasture, and feed some oxen and sheep. Preparation of wool of superior quality, which is exported to Lima, and to the neighbouring provinces, is one of the chief occupations, A considerable trade is also carried on in vitriol, sulphur, and salt. Pop. 25,000. CAXIAS, or ALPEAS ALTOS, a tn. of considerable extent, Brazil, prov. of, and 172 m. S.S.E. Maranhuo, r. bank, Itapi- cura, navigable up to the town. It has two churches, and is a depot for the products of the province, and consequently has a considerable transit trade. Its inhabitants are chiefly en gaged in agriculture and cattle-rearing. CAXO, or CASO, an isl. Grecian Archipelago; lat. (S.W. point) 35 19 N.; Ion. 26 50 E. (R.) ; 13 m. long, and 5 or 6 m. broad; surface uneven, and rocky. At its N. side is a little bay, where there is a village, consisting of about 100 houses, occupied by Greek fishermen. There is but one practicable landing-place on the island. The natives culti vate a little corn and grapes, making wine from the latter for their own consumption. Off the N. side of the island, and at the distance of 3 or 4 m. from it, there is a small islet, sur rounded by others of less size, called Caxo or Caso Poulo. CAXOEIRA. See CACHOEIRA. CAXTON, par. Eng. Cambridge; 2,000 ac. Pop. 558. CAYAMBE URCU, a lofty moutnain, Ecuador, in the Columbian Andes, directly under the terrestrial equator; Ion. 78 10 W.; 45 m. N.E. by E. Quito. It is of a beautiful conical form, and rises to a height of 19,535 ft. From its geographical position, and great elevation, it forms one of the most remarkable landmarks on the face of our globe ; summit covered with perpetual snow. CAYCOS, or CAICOS, a group of isls., islets, and rocks, Caribbean Sea, between lat. 21 and 22 N.; Ion. 71 20 and 72 30 W. The Grand Caycos, which is the largest, is about 30 m. long, by 3 or 4 m. wide, and has several good harbours. CAYENNE, a seaport tn. and cap. French Guiana, on the N.W. part of isl. of same name ; lat. 4 56 5" N. ; Ion. 52 20 W. (R.) It consists of an old and a new town ; the former a miserable place, with steep and narrow streets; badly paved, and irregularly built, surrounded by walls, with high bastions and a ditch. But, in the new town, the streets are wide and clean, and the houses good. There are here, also, large ware houses for storing merchandise, and a handsome church. In the old town are the Government-house, and an ancient Jesuits college. The harbour is shallow, but not objection able otherwise. It is protected by a fort and several batteries. The produce of the country is exported from Cayenne, chiefly to France, and, in 1841, amounted to 214,600; imports in the same year, to 197,400. Pop. 5000. The ISLANP is separated from the continent of S. America by a narrow channel; on each side runs a river; that to the N., near the mouth of which the town is situated, is called the river Cay enne ; while that to the S. is called the Oya or Oyak. It is about 18 m. long, N. to S., and between 10 and 12 m. broad. On the N.W. part of the island there are some hills and ele vated grounds, but in the S. it is low and swampy, and in the rainy season mostly inundated. The plantations of French Guiana are mostly on this island, at the mouth of the Cayenne. The chief productions are sugar, cotton, annotto, cloves, coffee, pepper, maize, &c. CAYES G35 CEAEA CAYES, a tn. and port, isl. Hayti, S. coast. The former is in lat. 18 10 N. ; Ion. 73 36 W. Tlie harbour is exposed to S. and S.E. gales, and, during a hurricane, there is little chance of escaping shipwreck. A considerable trade in sugar, indigo, cotton, and coffee, is carried on. Before the Kevolu- tion, it had a pop. of 12,000, but being, in 1831, partly de stroyed by a hurricane, it now has only 3000. CAYEUX [anc. Cadocum}, a tn. France, dep. Somme, 16 m. W.N.W. Abbeville, near the mouth of the Somme. It presents a singular aspect, the houses being built of straw and clay, and standing without order or regularity on the shore, almost swallowed by the dark and overhanging cliffs, without tree or shrub to relieve their rugged and gloomy appearance. The manufacture of hardware, fishing, and salt ing fis.li, employ the population 2372. CAYLUS, a tn. France, dep Tarn-et-Garonne, 26 m. N.E. Montauban; agreeably situate on the Bonnette; with an old castle on a rock in the middle of the town. It has a con siderable trade in grain. Pop. 1437. CAYMAN ISLANDS, three isls., W. Indies, N.W. of Jamaica, to the Government of which they are appendages, and from which the nearest is 140 m. distant, and the largest, the Grand Cayman, about 200 m. They are situate between lat. 19 10 and 19 45 N., and Ion. 79 30 and 81 35 W. Grand Cayman, which is the only one inhabited, is about 20 m. long, and about 7 to 10 m. broad ; and is covered with cocoa-nut trees. On the W. side is George Town, a large village ; but the other parts are thinly peopled. The climate is healthy ; there are no cattle or sheep ; and water is scarce. The chief occupation of the natives is in catching turtle for the markets of Jamaica and other islands. CAYMITES, two small isls., W. Indies, off the W. coast, Ilayti, called the Grand and the little Caymites; lat. (N.E. point, Grand Caymites) 18 39 N.; Ion. 73 40 W. (E.) A bay, formed by the larger isl. and the main, affords safe ai:d commodious anchorage. CAYM1TO, or CHOVI;EFA, a river, New Grfinada, prov. Isthmus, and falling into the Pacific about 10 m. W. Panama. It is formed by the junction of numerous small streams, rising in different parts of the W. Cordillera. Near its mouth it is very deep ; and as it is not impeded by a bar, the tide rushes in and out with great rapidity, rendering the anchorage for ship ping very exposed and insecure. CAYO VEEDE, or GREEN KAY, an islet, Bahama, group ; lat. 22 N. ; Ion. 75 10 W. It is of moderate height, and slopes towards the N.W. CAYOE, or KAYOK, a maritime state N.W. Africa, be tween the mouth of the Senegal and Cape Verd; bounded, N. by Wallo, E. by Burb-Joloff, S. by Baol, and W. by the Atlantic. It produces cotton, indigo, millet, gums, cattle, camels, horses, strong asses, swine, partridges, &c. It has several streams running E. to W. ; its cap. is Macaye, on the Condamel, in lat. 15 10 N. ; Ion. 16 30 W. The inhabitants are Joloffs and Mahometans. Pop. loO,000. CAYBU, a tn. Brazil, prov. of, and 62 m. S.W. Bahia ; en a river islet of its name, formed by the Tinhare and Tu- piacu, llm. from the sea. Its principal street is paved, and lias some good houses. Cayru has a church, a Latin and a primary school, a Franciscan convent, and it is the seat of a council for preserving the forests. Pop. 800. CAYSTEE, or KUCHUCK-MENDER [little Mender], river, Asiatic Turkey, pash. Anatolia, rises in the Buz-dagh mountain, sanjak, Aidin ; lat. 38 16 N.; Ion. 28 20 E. From this point it flows in a general S.W. direction, and falls into the bay of Scala-nova, in the Grecian Archipelago, lat. 37 53 N.; Ion. 27 22 E. It flows, during a part of its course, through a rich and fertile, but indifferently cultivated valley. CA YTON, par. Eng. York, N. hiding, 2430 ac. Pop. 572. CAZALLA-DE-LA-siERBA, a tn. Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 36 m. N. by E. Seville, on a declivity of the sierra Morena. Its streets are clean, paved, and well arranged ; and it has two squares, in the principal of which are the ancient church, townhall, and public storehouse. Cazalla has also three chapels, four schools, a prison, two hospitals, several convents, and two extensive aqueducts, of brick. The inhabitants are engaged in tanning, weaving, distilling brandy, expressing oil and wine, and in tillage; but their chief occupation is smelting metals, casting cannon, and manufacturing iron utensils machinery, and agricultural and industrial implements. The nountains in the vicinity are clothed with timber, and con- in mines of iron, copper, silver, sulphur, and antimony, and several quarries of beautiful variegated marble. The place s of high antiquity, and several Arabic and Roman remains still exist. Pop. 6552. (Madoz.) CAZEMBE, a state, Africa. See KAZEMRE. CAZEEES, a tn. France, dep. Haute Garonne, 32 m. S.W. Toulouse, 1. bank, Garonne. It is tolerably well built, and has hat manufactories, tanneries, and dyeworks, with a ;rade in cattle. The Garonne begins here to be navigable. Pop. 2318. CAZES-MOKDENAPD, a vil. France, dep. Tarn-et-Garonne, 21 m. from Moissac. Pop. 1125. CAZOELA, a city, Spain, Andalusia, prov. of, and 41 m. E. Jaen, N. slope of the sierra Cazorla. It is well built, in (lie form of an amphitheatre, and possesses numerous regular, though steep, streets, and two spacious squares, one of which is adorned with a fine central fountain. The town and court houses are large, and well constructed, and have a tower. The other public edifices are a parish church, chapel of ease, Latin, and several primary schools, an hospital, prison, theatre, storehouse, cemetery, and various convents. In the environs, watered by the Vega, are many delightful gardens and public walks, planted with fruit-trees, and adorned with shrubs and flowers. Manufactures : leather, soap, earthenware, bricks, tiles, wine, and oil. Trade : fruits, grain, cattle, and colonial produce. Cazorla is a place of great antiquity, and was for merly far more important and populous than at present. It figured conspicuously in the Moorish contests of the 13th cen tury, was, after repeated attempts, taken, and partly burnt, by the French in 1811; and subsequently distinguished in the late Carlist contest in 1837. The city is defended by two castles, both in good preservation, and one of them erected by the Arabs. Pop. 7383. (Madoz.) CAZOULS-LES-BEZiERS, an anc. tn. France, dep. Herault, 7 m. from Beziers, in a fertile district, abounding with wine, and having a brandy distillery, tannery, and the ruins of an old feudal fortalice. Pop. 1964. CEA. 1, A small river, Spain, which rises in the N.E. of Leon, and first runs almost due S. till it passes Sahagun, when it gradually trends W., and falls into 1. bank, Esla, about 4 m. N.E. Benavente, after a course of about 60 m. It is a shallow stream, not navigable, but much used for irrigation. It is liable to floodings, which have often done considerable damage. 2, A vil. and par. Spain, prov. of, and 32 m. E.S.E. Leon, 1. bank of above river. It contains an old castle, a prison, two churches, and a well-endowed primary school. Pop. 1201. 3, A tn. and par. Portugal, prov. Beira-Baixa, on the slope of the sierra d Estrella, about 50m. E. Coimbra. It contains a church, hospital, and infirmary. Pop. 2072. CEAEA, or YiLLA-no-FOETE, a tn. Brazil. See FOR- TALEZA. CEAEA, a prov. Brazil, N. coast, bounded, N. by the Atlantic, E. by prov. Rio-Grande-do-Norte, S. by Pernam- buco, and W. by Piauhi ; area, 66,387 sq. m. The surface is very much diversified, though, upon the whole, it may be characterized as more flat than mountainous. It has a general slope N. towards the Atlantic, from which it gradually ascends in the form of an amphitheatre, till it reaches the mountains of Aracati, Canavieras, Ceara, Mandahu, Boritama, and Ilibrapaba, which, linking on to each other, form a chain stretching E. to W., presenting summits so conspicuous, as to form important landmaiks to mariners on Hearing the coast. The principal rivers following the direction of the general slope, flow almost due N., in courses which are nearly parallel to each other. The most important is the Jaguaribe, in the E.; next to it are the Ceara, Mandahu, and Camucim. The high lands are fertile ; the lower valleys are sandy, sterile, and occasionally covered with lakes, which are strongly im pregnated with alum and nitre. The amphitheatre whidi rises behind the coast is well wooded, particularly with palms of various kinds. The province generally abounds in medi cinal plants, balsams, gums, and resins. In the interior are extensive forests, furnishing inexhaustible supplies of timber, and well supplied with all kinds of game. The minerals include gold, silver, iron, copper, lead, alum-stone, salt, salt petre, and rock-crystal. The progress of the seasons is ex- CKP.A/AT CELAYA tremely irregular. The climate, however, is on the whole salubrious, the heat, which would otherwise be insupportable, iwrticularly in the plains and valleys, being greatly tempered is capable of receiving only a small number of vessels, and the commerce is trifling ; but the sea fishery is prosecuted with activity. On a neighbouring hill, may be seen the ruius by a sea-breeze by day, and a land-breeze at night. When these breezes fail, the air becomes very unhealthy; and the province has been repeatedly scourged by pestilence. Ceara is divided into 25 town districts, which take the names of the different towns in the neighbourhood ; but the political or administrative division is into ten COM- areas, which appoint eight deputies to the general legislative assembly, and four sena tors and 28 deputies to the provincial as sembly. Pop. 190,000. CEBAZAT [anc. Sabasiacum], a tn. France, dep. Puy-de Dome, 4 m. N. Cler mont-Ferrand, on the rivulet Badat, in a rich fruit district. The inhabitants are en gaged in tillage and cattle-rearing, and ex port fruits and vegetables to Paris. Two annual fairs are held in May and August. Pop. 2060. CEBREROS, a tn. Spain, Old Castile, prov. of, and 30 m. S.E. Avila, on a rising ground, 1. bank, Alberche, crossed in the vicinity by a handsome stone bridge of four arches. Its streets are, in general, wide, and paved ; and the principal square is large, and lined with ! of a castle built by the Saracens. The town is the seat of a fine houses, possessing porticoes. The town also has three j bishopric. Pop. 8940. The DISTRICT of Cefalu is divided smaller squares, a capacious and magnificent church, several ! into six cantons. CKPALU. from chapels, a prison, storehouse, cemetery, and three primary schools. On a hill to the N., stands an ancient watch-tower, now much dilapidated, and used as a telegraph. The inhabit ants are engaged in weaving, tanning, expressing wine and oil, and in husbandry. Pop. 2744. CEBU, an isl. and tn. Philippines. See ZEBU. CECINA, a river and vil. Tuscany. The RIVER rises CEFFNLLYS, or KEVENLEECE, par. Wales, Radnor. Pop. 379. CEGAMA, a tn. Spain, Biscay, prov. Guipuzcoa, 14 m. S. by W. Tolosa, at the N. base of the Pyrenees ; houses mostly well" built, forming one principal street, with a central square ; a large portion of them, however, are detached. The town possesses a church, six chapels, a townhouse, prison, Latin, about 28 m. S.W. Siena; flows N.W., and then S.W. through I music, and two primary schools, two cemeteries, and, in th the marshes of Pisa and Volterra, and falls into the Mediter- environs, a sulphureous spring. Manufactures: woollen ranean, 21 m. S.S.W. Leghorn. - The VILLAGE stands at the mouth of the river; has a copper foundry ; and near it is a grand ducal villa. Pop. 400. CECLAVIN, a tn. Spain, Estremadura, pro of, and 29 m. N.W. Caceres, 10 m. N.E. Alcantara, on a small hill. The houses in general are well built ; streets clean and well paved; and in a spacious square stands a tower, containing the town clock. It likewise has a parish church, hospital, town- hall, prison, storehouse, convent, and four primary schools. In the vicinity are sulphureous springs, much esteemed as baths. Linen and woollen fabrics, hardware, soap, wax- candles, earthenware, wine, and oil are manufactured; and some trade is carried on in cattle, grain, fruits, and wine. An annual fair is held in June. Pop. 4656. CEDAR KAYS, three small isls. U. States, Gulf of Mexico, W. coast, Florida, and W. side of Yacasausa Bay; lat. 29 8 N. ; Ion. 82 57 W. CEDAR MOUNTAINS, a mountain range, S. Africa, Cape Colony, extending from lat. 31 57 to 32 24 S., and nearly along the meridian of 19 E. They are of primitive forma tion, and have a remarkably picturesque appearance, with peaks varying from 1600 to 5000 ft. above the level of the sea. In the higher parts an ash-coloured quartzose sandstone appears to predominate ; while the secondary range, at a height of 2000 ft., contains many marine fossils. Fine cedar trees, of gigantic size, formerly covered these mountains, and still do so to a considerable extent ; occupying ravines in the higher parts of the range, even at an elevation of 3000 ft. At a height of from 300 to 1000 ft. above the valley, are many Bojjesman caves, varying from 30 to 40 ft. in depth, and con taining numerous well-executed drawings in red ochre by that primitive people. In the valleys between the hills is an ex ceedingly fertile, dark-coloured, vegetable mould, on which corn, tobacco, and wine are raised ; whilst the supply of water, more or less chalybeate, is constant and abundant. CEFALU [anc. Cephalcedis], a seaport tn. and dist. Sicily, prov. Palermo, at the foot of a rock, 39 m. E.S.E. Palermo; lat. 38 N. ; Ion. 14 4 E. It is surrounded by an old wall, and has a cathedral, with several churches. The port stuffs, linen, ropes, pottery, machinery, nails, bolts, agricul tural implements, and every description of hardware. The Carlist general, Don Tomas Zumalacarregui, was brought by is son to Cegama in 1835, after having been wounded at the siege of Bilbao, and died here eight days afterwards. Hi body was interred in the church. Pop. 2123. CEGLIE, a tn. Naples, prov. Terra di Otranto, 25 m. W. Brindisi, on a hill. It contains several churches. P. 1930. CEHEGIN, a tn. Spain, prov. of, and 39 m. W.N.W. Murcia, 4 m. E. Caravaca, on a declivity facing the S. It has numerous spacious streets, and two squares, lined with substantial houses, and neat public buildings; comprising a parish church, three chapels, town and courthouses, a prison, hospital, theatre, cemetery, and several schools. Manufac tures : paper, cloth, soap, potteryware, brandy, wine, and oil. Trade: grain, wool, hemp, silk, wax, cotton, &c. In the neighbourhood, various quarries of jasper and variegated marble are wrought. Pop. 10,354. (Madoz.) CEICER-DE-TERRE, and CEICER-DE-MER, two small isls. China Sea, off the S.E. coast of Cochin China. The first, called by the natives Hon Cau, is in lat. 11 13 N. ; Ion. 108 48 E. It is rocky and barren, with exception of a little grass or green moss on the flat part. The second, Ceicer-de- Mer, is 41 m. S.E. the former; lat. (centre) 10 32 30" N. ; Ion. 108 53 E. It is 4 or 5 m. long, and about 1 broad; of easy access on the W., well-cultivated, and inhabited prin cipally by fishermen, who pay annual tribute in salt fish and bird s-nests to the King of Cochin China. CEIDIO, par. Wales, Carnarvon. Pop. (1841), 138. CELANO, a tn. Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra II., N. side of Lake Cclano or Fucino, 6 m. E.N.E. Avezzano. It has several churches, and a paper manufactory; and two annual fairs. Pop. 3868. CELAYA, or ZELAYA, a tn. Mexican Confederation, state Guanaxuto, 130 m. N.W. Mexico, and 6020 ft. above the level of the sea, on r. bank, Rio-Grande-de-Santiago, over which is here a handsome bridge. It has numerous churches, among which, the Carmelite church is an imposing structure of mixed architecture, with Corinthian and Ionic columns; CELBRIDGE 637 CELEBES interior sombre and gloomy, but enriched with a great quan tity of gold and silver ornaments. There is also a large collecturia or storehouse. Manufactures : saddles, bridles, and other articles of leather. Grain of all kinds grows abundantly ; and horses and mules are bred in considerable numbers in the environs. Pop. 7000. CELBRIDGE, a market tn. Ireland, co. Kildare, 3J m. N.E. Maynooth, pleasantly situate, 1. bank, Liffey; houses in ! general well built; supply of water plentiful. The church j is a handsome edifice, with a tower and spire. There is also j a free school, a dispensary, and a fever hospital. Woollen cloth was formerly manufactured here to a considerable ex tent ; and adjoining the town there is an extensive cotton factory ; petty sessions are held every Monday. Pop. 1289. CELEBES [called, by the natives, Negri-Orang-Boogis, and also, Tanali-Boogis or Tanah-Manykesser, contracted into Macassar], one of the larger isl. Indian Archipelago, between Borneo on the "W., and the Moluccas on the E., extending from lat. 1 45 N. to 5 52 S., and from Ion. 118 45 to 125 17 E. ; area, 71,791 sq. m. Celebes is properly the name of the E. part only, and Macassar of the W. From its singular shape it has been compared to a tarantula, or to two horse- shoes joined at the fore parts. It mainly consists of four large peninsulas, stretching to the E. and S., and separ ated by three deep gulfs. Of these peninsulas, that of Menado on the N. sweeps N., then E., and, lastly, N.E., for 400 m., with a breadth varying from 12 to 60 m.; that of Bulante, on the E., is 160 m. long, and from 30 to 95 m. broad; the S.E. peninsula lias much the same length and breadth as the latter ; and that of Macassar, on the S. W., forms a pretty regular paralellogram, 200 in. long, and 65 m. broad. They are all formed by chains of mountains running from a common central territory, 150 m. long, and 105 m. broad. The gulf of Tomini or Gorontalo, on the N.E., is 240 m. long, and widens from 55 m. at its mouth, to 100 m. at its farther extremity, which is marked on the latest maps as very little known ; that of Tomaiki or Tolo, on the E., lias, on the contrary, a wide mouth, and narrow upper end ; and that of Macassar, or Boni, on the S., washes the E. side of Macassar for 200 m., and varies in breadth from 35 to 80 in. To these must be added, the bays of Menado, Amoo- rang, Kwandang, and Tontoli, on the N. ; of Palos and Parre- Parre, on the W. ; of Balante, Talowa, Nipa-nipa, and Staring, on the E. ; and many more or less considerable, in the gulf of Boni. General Aspect. Celebes is high and mountainous chiefly in the centre and the N., where there are several active vol canoes. The absence of extensive deltas, and the intervention of broad, grassy plains between the forests, distinguish it from the other larger islands of the Indian Archipelago. All that is most majestic and lovely in these, is thought to be concentrated in Celebes. It abounds in the most picturesque and varied scenery, and the most beautiful and magnificent tropical vegetation. Climate. Though cut by the equator, and wholly under the torrid zone, Celebes is thought remarkably healthy, the natives often enjoying a vigorous old age, and Europeans living longer than anywhere else in the E. Its extreme heats are tempered by the sea-breezes, by monthly rains, and by the N. winds that prevail for part of the year. The E. mon soon lasts from May to November, and the "W. during the remaining months. Geology. The soil generally consists of a bed of vegetable mould from 10 to 20 ft. thick, on decomposing basalt. Gold is found in all the valleys of the N. peninsula, which is often convulsed by earthquakes ; and abounds in sulphur. Copper of good quality occurs at various points, and in Macassar, tin, also, as pure as that of Banka. Diamonds are sometimes found almost at the surface of the ground, and precious stones are carried down in the sand of the torrents. Mountains, Lakes, andJiwers. Lampoo-Batang is reckoned the highest mountain in Celebes, being above 7000 ft. high. Near Menado, Mount Klobat, and the summits called the Two Sisters, stand conspicuous. The largest lake is supposed to be one in the central part of the island, as yet unvisited by Europeans, and said, by the natives, to be surrounded with villages. That of Tondano, in the N. peninsula, is 2000 ft. above the level of the sea. But the most important of all is that of Tapara-Karajn, or Labaya, in the S.W. It commu nicates W. by navigable streams with the sea, and E. with the Gulf of Boni; and is the original seat of an early native civilization, which has sent its ramifications over the whole archipelago. The largest river, the Cliinrana, flows from that lake, and is navigable for European vessels for some distance, and by the native prahus as far as the lake. The Boli enters the sea at Boli, on the N. On the S. coast, there are many rivers navigable for some miles from the sea. Zoology. The island is entirely destitute of the large car nivorous animals, and pachyderms. None of the cat kind, from the tiger downwards, haunts its forests ; nor has it the elephant, the rhinoceros, or the tapir. Deer and wild hogs abound, together with the Babyroussa, and herds of anti- opes. Pouched animals, unknown in the Sunda islands, here first occur ; also a singular ruminating animal ( Cervus de- pressicornis), the supi-Jiootan of the Malays, and the anooang of the natives. It holds both of the ox and the deer, and haunts the most solitary places of the S. of the island The monkeys are of various kinds, and both numerous and dangerous. The white monkey is particularly mischievous. The Tarsius spec trum hides itself in the moist woods of the plains, but when pursued, leaps from bush to bush like a frog; and though most inoffensive, is held in superstitious awe by the natives, who attribute magical qualities to its large, round, prominent eyes. Here, too, are found the cameleon, and the flying- dragon, one of the saurian tribe, with wings attached to the base of its thighs, forming a sort of parachute, to facilitate its leaps from branch to branch. Monkeys, moles, rats, field- lice, and scorpions, are kept down by the numerous snakes of the island, from the enormous tiger-python (Boa castanea], 30 ft. long, but not venomous, to the small but deadly cobra- la-capella, more dreaded than the crocodile. Among domesti cated animals are found small but vigorous horses, buffaloes, goats, sheep resembling those of the Cape of Good Hope, and pigs. Many of the birds of Celebes differ totally from those of the Sunda isles. Some seem to occur nowhere else ; and others, though found in the Sundas, have peculiarities not found there. Green is here the prevailing hue of the parrot tribes, while bright red and scarlet predominate in the Moluccas. Beautifully-coloured pigeons, not yet scientifically described, abound in the woods. Celebes is the first island in the Archipelago in which that singular gallinaceous fowl, the Mcgapodius, is found (see AUSTRALIA, p. 260), as also a new kind of Maleo (Hegaccplialus). The seas swarm with fish, so that 300 different kinds are sometimes offered for sale at the Macassar market. The shores are frequented from time to time by the Dugon (Halicore dugon]. The trepang fishery, and the catching of turtle, occupy thousands of the Orang-Badjo race. Botany. Naturalists have visited only four points of Celebes ; but as almost every plant or animal taken by them was more or less new, a rich harvest may be expected from future researches. Dense woods clothe the mountain sides ; and in these are found the oak, the teak, the cedar, the upas both Antiaris toxicaria and Strychnos tieute the one a tree, sometimes 100 ft. high, the other a climber, but both yielding powerful poisons ; together with countless other trees, useful or precious, the clove and nutmeg trees, the sago, and other palms, which supply the natives with coverings for their houses, clothing, cordage, household vessels, oils, and intoxi- cat ing drink. To these may be added the pepper-vine, the sweet- smelling sandal wood, and that which, when fresh cut, yields a red dye. The sacred waranguin sometimes presents, in a single tree, the appearance of a forest. The bamboo attains the height of 40 ft. ; while its trunk, though hollow, is hard enough to serve for house supports and rafters ; the natives use its tender shoots for stews or salad, or extract common vinegar from them. Add to these the mango, the banana, the silk cotton-tree (Bombax ceiba), the badeau, from which the famed Macassar oil is extracted; sumach or fustic-wood, ebony, the betel-nut tree, and ginger plant. Among plants requiring more careful cultivation, there are the coffee-tree, indigo, the cacao, sugar-cane, the manioc root, benzoin, and tobacco. Mountain rice, of which there are three varieties, is that chiefly cultivated, and also maize. In the gardens, cabbages, turnips, and other European pot-herbs, are cultivated. Inhabitants. The oldest are doubtless the Alfoories of the interior, that being the name generally applied to the moun tain tribes that have been driven inwards in many of the CELEBES G38 CENIS (MONT) islands by invaders of their coasts. Those of Celebes are of middle f-tature, fairer in complexion than the Malays, and milder and more intelligent than the Alfoories of other islands. They believe in the agency of evil spirits, and the Polynesian taboo prevails among them. But by far the finest race in Celebes, and indeed in the whole archipelago, are the Boogis, supposed to have come originally from Borneo. Like the Dyaks, they are a remarkably handsome race, physically re sembling the Polynesians far more than the Malays ; to which last, also, they are far superior in point of honesty, energy of character, and general conduct. The bare word of these modern Phoenicians is more to be trusted than the most solemn oaths of the natives of Bengal ; their commercial enterprise is unequalled, every soul, male or female, from the prince to the peasant, being more or less engaged in trade, and the most arduous voyages being undertaken by them in vessels ill adapted to brave the perils of the ocean. They are the chief, and almost the sole carriers of the archipelago ; and annually visit even the N. coast of Australia with from 80 to 100 prahus, in order to collect cargoes of trepang. The Macassars are also a fine people, and supply the Dutch with their bravest and most faithful soldiers. The Celebians, gen erally, are fond of active exercise, particularly on horseback ; and, as their country abounds in open grassy glades, they are much addicted to hunting the doer. They bring up their children in a sort of Spartan fashion, rubbing their limbs with oil and water to strengthen them, and sending them to their friends, at five years of age, to prevent their being spoiled by the endearments of home. After some years attendance at school, the boys are taught handicrafts, and the girls, who are educated by their mothers, learn silk and cot ton weaving. Among those in easy circumstances, some of the women learn to read and write a very rare practice in the East. Languages. The languages and literature of Celebes differ essentially from those of the countries to the \V. The letters of its alphabet are, in form, as unlike the Javanese as the latter are unlike the Arabic or Roman. The three great lan guages of the island, not reckoning the dialects of the savage tribes, are those of the Boogis, the Macassars, and of Mand- har. The ancient Boogis is the language of science and religion, and is thought, by some, to be the mother tongue of the three. The modern Boogis is the most cultivated and copious ; the Macassar is simpler, and its literature more scanty ; both are distinguished for a soft and vocalic pronun ciation. The Boogis have a considerable body of literature, consisting both of native tales, founded on national legends, and of translations of Malay and Javanese romances, and of works on law and religion from the Arabic. Religion. The Alfoories have their own vague supersti tions. The more civilized inhabitants profess Mahometanism ; but, previous to the introduction of that faith, the Hindoos had brought their religion to the island, and the natives say that there are fine Hindoo monuments in the interior that have not yet been visited by Europeans. Government. Several independent nations inhabit Celebes, and their governments are more regular than their otherwise low degree of civilization would lead one to infer. The chiefs are elective. Constitutional principles are said to exist in full force among them. Some chiefs reign by right of inherit ance, but, with the concurrence of inferior chiefs representing the general interests of the country. The most usual form of government is the federal and republican, combined with the monarchical and elective principle. The native princes so far recognize the authority of the Dutch, who have had a footing in Celebes ever since they expelled the Portuguese in 1660, with the exception of the four years occupation by the British. Much public respect is paid to women, and they occasionally reign as queens. History. The native annals reach back, with any certainty, to only about 400 years, and exhibit a history full of wild energy, unsettlement, and warfare. In 1512, when the Portu guese first visited the island, they found but few Mahometans in it ; and it was not until a century afterwards that Moslemism was generally adopted. The Macassars first conquered the Boogis, and compelled them to become followers of Mahoinet ; afterwards the latter revolted, were aided by the Dutch, and subdued the Macassars in turn. But even with the aid of their European allies, they failed in establishing a firm gov ernment ; and the system of mo nopoly, now wisely abandoned, but long forced by the Dutch on all the native chiefs, proved, in every way, destructive to the progress of the population. Population. Variously estimated, but, by the latest con jectures, thought to be about 2,000,000. (Van der Aa; Temminck; Raffles; Crawford; Earl s Eastern Seas; Wilks s U. States Exploring Expedition, c.) CELENZA, the name of two places, Naples : 1, A vil. and com., prov. Abruzzo Citra, dist. of, and 16 m. S.S.W. Vasto. Pop. 1853. 2, A tn. and com., prov. Capitanata, dist. of, and 22 m. W.S.W. Sansevero It contains three convents, and has an annual fair. Pop. 3840. CELLAN, par. Wales, Cardigan. Pop. 475. CELLE, a tn. Hanover, at the confluence of the river Aue with the Aller, in the midst of a sandy plain, 23 m. N.E. Hanover. It is well built and well paved, and contains seven churches, a gymnasium, a library, a lying-in hospital, a medi cal school, a workhouse, and a penitentiary. It has also a royal palace with a fine chapel. In what is called the French garden, is an indifferent monument to Matilda, Queen of Den mark, sister of George III., who died here. The old parish church contains tbe burial vault of the house of Brunswick- Liineburg. Its inhabitants are noted for their industry ; they manufacture excellent linen, flannel, hats, tobacco, &c., and carry on a considerable trade with Bremen and other places, by the Aller, which here becomes navigable. By railway, it communicates with Hamburg, Hanover, and all parts of Germany. The royal family of England is descended from one of the dukes of Celle. Pop. 12,000. CELLE11FELD. See ZBLLERPELD. CELLIO, a vil. Sardinian States, Piedmont, prov. Va- lesia, 55 m. S.E. Vallora. Pop. 2300. CELORICO-DA-BEiiiA, a tn. Portugal, prov. Beira-Alta, in a fertile district, 1. bank, Mondego, 11 m. W.N.W. Guarda. It is divided into three parishes, each of which has a church, one of them collegiate, and contains some ancient remains. Pop. 1831. GEM BRA, a tn. and com. Austria, Tyrol, prov. of, and 9 m. N.E. by N. Trent, r. bank, Avisio. Pop. 1513. CEMMES, a vil. and par. Wales, co. Montgomery, 6 m. N.E. Machynlleth. The VILLAGE, romantically situate on the Dovey, contains a handsome church, chapels for Inde pendents and Calvinistic Methodists ; a day school, and Sunday schools belonging to each of these religious denomination.-), and several charities. There are three annual fairs. Pop. (1841), 935. CENEDA, a tn. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, prov. of, and 22 m. N. Treviso, on the Macliio. It is defended by a citadel, is the seat of a bishopric, and of the district govern ment, and has a cathedral and several other churches. It has a theological seminary, and a gymnasium ; five paper- mills, a bell foundry, some tanneries, and dyeing establish ments, with manufactures of cotton and woollen cloths and felts. There are mineral springs in the vicinity. Pop. 4500. CENIA (LA) [anc. Sicana], a tn. Spain, Catalonia, prov. of, and 56 m. S.W. Tarragona, 12 m. S.W. Tortosa, 1. bank, Cenia. It is well built, and has a square, adorned with a central fountain ; a parish church, townhall, prison, and two schools. Employments paper, wine, and oil-making, and husbandry. Pop. 2043. CENIS (MONT), or MONTE CENISIO, a mountain and pass, Cottian Alps, Sardinian States, between Piedmont and Savoy, and forming part of the watershed between the valleys of the Arc and the Doire. The culminating point of the moun tain is 2224 ft. above Lans-le-bourg, in the former valley, and 6773 ft. above the sea level. Its strata consist of alter nate beds of schist, limestone, and gypsum. Basalt, serpent ine, and, it is said, quartz, also occur. Its principal summits, Ronche, Roche Michel, and Roche Melon, are usually sur rounded by clouds, and covered with snow. Between the first two summits on the E., and little Mount Cenis on the W., is a plateau covered with meadows and pastures, and partly occupied by a Lake, which contains excellent trouts, and discharges itself by a mountain torrent, which rushes down towards Susa, and forms a succession of fine cascades. The vegetation of the mountain is particularly rich in rarer Alpine plants, and is much resorted to by botanists. Tha pass has been practicable from the earliest times, but the road was very bad, and exposed to avalanches. The present CENON-LA-BASTIDE 630 CERAM admirable road, one of the safest and most frequented over the Alps, was finished in 1810, at an expense of 300,000, under the orders of Bonaparte. CENON-LA-BASTiDE, a vil. France, dep. Gironde, 2 m. from Bordeaux. Pop. 2541. CENTALLO, a tn. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 7 m. N.N.E. Coni, near r. bank, Grana. It lias a castle, the for mer residence of the Marquises of Snsa. Pop. 5000. CENTO, a tn. Papal States, 13 m. N. Bologna, E. bank, canal of Cento, and near the river Reno. It is surrounded by a rampart and ditch, and contains several churches, con vents, and a cathedral. The celebrated painter, G. F. Bar bieri, commonly called Guercino, who founded a school of art in 1 616, was a native of this place. Pop. 4000. CENTORBI [anc. Centuripas], a tn. Sicily, prov. of, and 17 m. W.N.W. Catania, on a rock. It has only one street, a church, and a convent -, but numerous ruins exist in the vicinity, where also is found a stone that dissolves in water like soap. Pop. 4455. CENTRAL AMERICA. See AMERICA, p. 124. CEOS, isl. Greece. See ZEA. CEPHALONIA, or KEPHALONIA, an isl. Mediterranean, and one of the largest constituting the Ionian Republic, W. coast, Greece, opposite the Gulf of Patras, between lat. 38 4 and 38 29 N.; and Ion. 20 21 and 20 49 E. Greatest length, 32 m.; breadth, varying from 5 to 12 m.; area about 348 sq. m. It is separated from Ithaca on the \V., by a strait about 2 m. broad, and stretching the whole length of the lat ter island, which lies parallel to its N. extremity. Cephalonia is generally mountainous. A calcareous ridge traverses the Island N.W. to S.E., the highest summit of which, called Orios Ainos, is about 5000 ft. above sea level. This lofty peak was anciently crowned by a temple of Jupiter, of which no trace remains, the mountain being now entirely covered with wood. The only plain in the island of any extent, is in the S.W. near Argostoli ; it is about 6 m. in length, and is chiefly planted with vines. There are other fertile spots throughout the island, but the soil is in general extremely thin. The coast line is very irregular and deeply marked with indentations, the principal of which are the bays of Samos, Zola, and Argostoli; the last extends about 7 or 8 m. inland, has good anchorage, and is almost completely land-locked, having but a narrow opening of 1 or 2 m. wide, with a range inside of nearly 10 m. of generally deep water. The climate is mild, but subject to sudden changes of temperature, and to violent storms ; earthquakes also are frequent. The principal produce of the island is currants, of which large quantities are exported annually. The other products are wheat, corn, olive oil. wine, cotton, flax, and salt, with various kinds of fruits, including oranges, lemons, figs, carobs, and melons. The manufactures of the island are inconsiderable, consisting of cottons, and of carpets of mixed wool and goafs-hair, with some potteries, and distil leries of liqueurs. The inhabitants are in telligent, industrious, and enterprising, but .-. ,-~X are charged with being loquacious and ver- ; bose. Great numbers of them are brought up to the medical profession, and afterwards emigrate for practice to various parts of the continent, especially to Turkey, where there is hardly a town without a practitioner from Cephalonia. The greater part of the population are of the Greek church, the others are of the Latin church, and have a R. Catholic bishop, and several convents of Franciscans. There are VIIJ 11 free schools on the island which are sup ported by the Government, and 78 private schools. Cephalonia was known anciently, by various names ; being called Samos by Homer in the Odyssey, and Tetrapolis by Thucydides. In 189, B.C., the island came under the Roman dominion, and so remained till after the division of the empire, when it became subject to the Byzantines till the 12th century, filling afterwards, successively, to the Normans, Venetians, Turks, and again to the Venetians, who retained possession of it till 1797, when it was taken by the French, who were, in turn, driven out by the Russians in 1799. Cephalonia was then made part of the new State of the Seven Islands under the protection of Russia. By the peace of Tilsit in 1809, the French again obtained possession of it, but were soon after driven out by the English, under whose protection it now re mains. The island is divided into four districts, and sends seven members to the Legislative Assembly, and one to the Senate. The principal towns are Argostoli, and Lixuri ; there are, besides, however, several large villages, amongst which are Kalata and Zola, both on the N.W. coast of the island. Pop. (1851), 69,054. CEPPALONI, a vil. and com. Naples, prov. Principato Ultra, dist. Avellino, and 5 m. S. Benevento. It Las an annual fair. Pop. 2818. CEPRANO, a tn. Papal States, 11 m. S.E. Frosinone, on the frontiers of Naples, and near r. bank, Liri. Pop. 3000. CERAM, called also CEIRAM and ZERAM, and SIKANO by the natives, an isl. Indian Archipelago, the second largest of the Moluccas, lies between Booroo on the W., and Papua on the E., and immediately N. Amboina. It stretches from lat. 2 47 to 3 50 S.; and Ion. 127 51 to 123 56 E. ; area, estimated at 10,500 sq. m. As the object of the Dutch, until of late years, was not to increase the peculiar products of the Spice Islands, but to sell small quantities at exorbitant profits, their agents in Ceram have been content to know no more of the island than was required for the extirpation of clove and nutmeg trees, and otherwise enforcing the monopoly pre scribed by the Bongay contract of 1676. Ceram, accordingly, is still very imperfectly known. It is traversed from end to end by mountain ranges, rising from a table-land of consider able elevation, and sending down innumerable streams to tho sea. The mountains vary from 6000 to 8000 ft. in height, and that called Noosaheli rises to 9750 ft. But little is known of their formation, nor is it certain that there are any volcanoes among them. As the mountain -range inclines to tho, N.. the largest rivers flow S. The vegetation of Ceram is luxu riant and gigantic; the sago-palm, in particular, is more abundant here than in any other of the adjoining islands, to which, consequently, supplies of sago are exported. It grows 100 ft. high, and, instead of 400 Ibs. as at Amboina, a single tree will sometimes yield 1200 Ibs. of starch. Clove and nutmeg-trees grow wild in the woods, which abound, likewise, in magnificent forest trees, but none have been found, as yet, adapted for shipbuilding. Near the E. end, N. side, is the village of Waroo, on tbe bay of same name; about lat. 3 25 S.; Ion. 130 40 E. The bay affords good anchorage and water, and other refreshments may be procured in it. The coasts are peopled by a Malay race of bold and enter prising fishermen and traffickers, who carry the produce of their fisheries, in large prahus, called Jcora-kora, with from 30 to 60 rowers each, to the Sunda islands and Singapore. The interior is peopled by the Alfoories or Halafoorahs, identical, apparently, with those mountaineers of Celebes and the Philip- CEUAM-LAUT ISLES 6-10 CEK1GO pines. Though the past policy of Holland has retarded the cultivation of the land in Geram, her Christian missions have not only made numerous converts along the coasts, but have extended a softening influence even among the idolaters of the interior. It is doubted whether the cutting off of heads, for the mere purpose of giving eclat to a marriage or other festivity, now exists in Ceram ; and a Dutchman did there in 1846, what a Spaniard durst not venture to do in Luzon. A sub-resident, Mr. Scherius, passed through their mountain- retreats, and though he found human skulls used both as pri vate and public ornaments, the atrocious custom of procuring them from living victims was apparently abandoned. After three days travelling, Mr. S. reached the elevated and almost inaccessible table-lands of those barbarous aborigines, and, even amid such hideous tokens of old customs, found them a simple, honest, and peaceable people, living happily with each other, and in habitual respect for their own patriarchal government. The travellers were received without the least apparent distrust at the native village, which consisted of spacious cabins placed at some distance from each other, at a cheerful and picturesque spot. The insides of the huts were clean and simple ; the furniture consisted of a few coarse uten sils, two muskets, of English manufacture, and three large sabres ; five human skulls, suspended across the roof, left no doubt of the tribe being Alfoories. It numbered about 500 souls, of whom 100 could bear arms, and had about 70 muskets among them. The women engage in field-work ; the men do so only when fresh ground has to be cleared. The chief article of culture is maize ; and the surplus supply of that, and several other vegetable productions, is exchanged at the small towns along the shore for arms, powder and shot, articles of dress, and fermented drinks. The men, when not engaged in war, hunt the wild boar and deer, large serpents, &c. The Alfoories of the S. of Ceram have an open expression, projecting feat ures, large eyes, a well-proportioned nose, large but not pro minent lips, and long frizzled hair. They are generally mild in disposition, serviceable, and faithful ; and, being both brave and obedient, make good soldiers. The other inhabitants of Ceram are subject to several chiefs, who again are subject those of the W. part to the Dutch resident at Amboina, and those of the E. to the resident at Banda. A part of the centre of the island is nominally governed by a prince called the Sultan of Ceram, a personage whose piratical propensities have led, at last, to his deportation to Java. The local princes meet the Eutch residents once in two years, to have their dis putes settled by a court composed of 24 rajahs, and at which the resident presides. Sir Edward Belcher happened to be at Amboina at the time of its meeting there, and was surprised to find that most of the rajahs had adopted the European dress and manners. The aborigines of Ceram are mostly idolaters, and the coast population, generally speaking, Mahometans ; though, of 620 souls in the village of Makarike, where Mr. Scherius landed, 438 were Christians, 11 only Mahometans, and 171 idolaters. But the Christians were suffering from neglect. Notwith standing its superabundant, fertility, Ceram is very thinly peopled. This is attributed to the frequent dissensions of the Malays among themselves, the attacks of the Alfoories from the land side and of pirates at sea, and the ravages of the small-pox. The present pop. is roughly estimated at 226,000. (Van der Aa; Temminck; Moniteurdes Indes), CERAM-LAUT ISLES, a cluster of small islands, Indian Archipelago, lying off the E. end of island Ceram, from which they are separated by the island and strait of Keffing. The chief island is about 5 m. long, mountainous, and uninhabited ; lat. 3 48 S. t Ion. 131 E. (R.) CERAM I, a tn. Sicily, prov. Catania, 7 m. N.E. Nicosia. Silver, copper, salt, sulphur, and slate are found in the dis trict. Pop. 3667. CERANO, a vil. Sardinian States, Piedmont, prov. of, and 8m. E.S.E. Novara, on the Mora. It has silk-mills. P. 3600. CERANS-Foui.LETOURTE, a vil. France, dep. Sarthe, 13 m. from La Fleche. Pop. 1233. CERCADO, a prov. Peru, having Lima, the cap. of the country, about its centre on the coast. It is 39 m. long by 24 m. broad ; is watered by the Rimac and Lurin. Although very little rain falls here even in winter, the territory is extremely fertile, and produces various fruits and plants in great abundance. The climate is mild, but unhealthy ; and the country, though not subject to high winds, is frequently visited by earthquakes. CERCHIARA, a tn. and com. Naples, prov. Calabria Citra, 9 m. E.N.E. Castrovillari. It contains two churches and a foundling-hospital. Pop. 2080. CERDAGNE, or CERDANA [Latin, Cardania or Cere- tania] , an anc. dist. occupying both sides of the Pyrenees, and partly in France, and partly in Spain. The French portion was a dependency of the former prov. Roussillon, and had Mont Louis for its capital. It now forms part of Pyrenees- Orientales ; the Spanish portion, of which Puy Cerda was the capital, is included in the modern provinces Barcelona, Gcrona, and Lerida. CERE, a small river, France, which rises in the Plomb de Cantal, dep. Cantal, and, after a circuitous W. course of about 60 m., joins 1. bank, Dordogne, a little below Bretenoux, dep. Lot. No part of it is navigable. CERE (ST.), a tn. France, dep. Lot, 17 m. N.N.W. Figeac, on an island formed by the Baue. N. of the town is a remarkable conical hill, the summit of which, about 600 ft. above the river, is surrounded by a rampart 8 ft. thick, entered by a single gate. There are also two iso lated square towers on it the principal of which is 134 ft. high, and 98 ft. on each face. The origin of this fortress is unknown. The town produces good hats, and has a consider able linen trade. Pop. 2918. CEREA, a vil. and par. Austrian Italy, gov. Venice, prov. of. and 19 m. S.S.E. Verona, between the Tartano and Menago. It contains a parish and two auxiliary churches, numerous oratories, and four mills. The Austrians defeated the French here in 1798. Pop. 2800. CERES, par. Scot. Fife ; 8 m. by 4 m. P. (1851), 2836 CERES, a vil. Sardinian States, Piedmont, prov. of, and 22 m. N.W. Turin, near the confluence of two branches of the Stura. Pop. 2000. CERET, a tn. France, dep. Pyrene es-Orientales, 15 m. S.S.W. Perpignan, r. bank, Tech, 4 m. from the Spanish frontier. The river is here crossed by a bridge of a single arch of 147 ft. span the highest and widest structure of the kind in France. Ceret is surrounded by walls, flanked with towers, outside of which is a promenade planted with trees. The streets are narrow, but the suburbs are agreeable. Corks, leather, and brazen utensils, are made here ; and there is somo trade in grain, oil, cork, &c. In 1660, the plenipotentiaries of France and Spain met here to fix the boundaries of the two kingdoms. Pop. 2868. CERIANA, a vil. Sardinian States, prov. of, and 27 m. E.N.E. Nice. Pop. 2000. CERIGNOLA, a tn. Naples, prov. Capitanata, 24 m. S.E. Foggia. It has a college, several convents, and an hospital. The inhabitants manufacture linen ; and the dis trict produces large quantities of almonds and cotton. In 1503, the Spaniards here defeated the French, when tho Duke de Nemours, who commanded the latter, was slain. Pop. 10,350. CERIGO, or KERIGO [anc. Cythera], one of the Ionian Islands, S. of the Morea of Greece, about 12 in. from Cape Malea, or St. Angelo; S.E. the entry of the Gulf of La- conia, lat. (N. point) 36 23 N. ; Ion. 22 57 15" E. (it.) This island, between 50 and 60 m. in circumference, is hilly, and its shores steep and dangerous, from currents and sudden gusts of wind; the safest anchorage is at San Nikolo, on the E. coast. The climate is very mild and salubrious. The island has little wood on it, but some good pasturage, with a few fertile valleys, yielding small crops of grain, vines, olives, &c. Some fine honey is produced, and part of it exported. On the island there is a convict station. Cerigo forms, with Cerigotto, one of the administrative provinces of the Ionian Islands. It contains two towns, including the capital, Capsalo on the S. coast, and 29 villages. The people are of Greek origin, and are all of the Greek church. The island sends a representative to the Republican Assembly ; and, conjointly with Ithaca and Paxo, one senator. 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" Each article is scientifically ard practically treated, and nothing but careful research, combined with practical experience, could have produced such a valuable work." JOUN BISSET, Esq., Manager for Lady Saltoun, Kinchi/le. "The Work is fully up to the present day, there being ample details of the latest discoveries." ME. GEORGE HOPE, Farmer, Fenlon Barns, Drem, Hnddingtonshire. " This admirable Cyclopedia." Mart Lane Express. "I have no hesitation whatever in expressing my high opinion of the Cyclopedia of Agriculture. " M. M. MILDURW, Esq., Soverby, Thirsk, Yorkshire. " I do not remember to have seen, in any work of the kind, such a combination of valuable science aud practical experience." BAirom CHKTHAM, Esq., Oakham, Rutlandshire. "The beau-ideal of a Cyclopedia of Agriculture." ScolliiA Agricultvrrt Journal. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY BERKELEY Return to desk from which borrowed. This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. May SOBR tool o u LD 21-100m-ll, 49(B7146sl6)476 229518