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| Hannay, E. Evelyn

J Dairying and civilization

1928

 
 
   
 
  
  
   
   
  
  
  
     

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Master negative storage number: 00-89.04

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Author: Hannay, E Evelyn.

Title: Dairying and civilization. [n.p.] California Dairy Council,
1928.

Description: 31 p. illus. 20cm.

~ Subjects: Dairying.
Other entries: California Dairy Council.

Call numbers: CSL State Lib SB231 H353 California Non Circ

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DAIRYING AND
CIVILIZATION

Prepared by
E. EveLyn HANNAY

for
CALIFORNIA DAIRY COUNCIL

COPYRIGHT MARCH, 1928, BY CALIFORNIA DAIRY COUNCIL. PRINTED IN U. S. A.

 

 

 
 

 

- DAIRYING AND
CIVILIZATION

Prepared by
E. EveLyn HANNAY

for
CALIFORNIA DAIRY COUNCIL

 

 

COPYRIGHT MARCH, 1928, BY CALIFORNIA DAIRY COUNCIL. PRINTED IN U. S. A.

 

 
ALIFORNIA Dairy Counc is publish-

ing this monograph with the thought

that it will help to preserve the record of
the part which the dairy cow has taken in the
development of human civilization. History, both
sacred and secular, is rich in references to the im-
portant service the dairy cow has rendered the
human family, but the significance of her influ-
ence upon the progress of civilization is liable to
~ pass unnoticed by the present-day generation be-
cause of the separation that now exists between
Man and his cattle as a result of the herding of
humans in congested areas.

It is our hope that this small contribution may
be used as reference by students, particularly those
of the younger generation. Also, that it may aid
in perpetuating the esteem which past generations
have had for that wonderful animal, the dairy cow.

on 1 Eitie

Secretary

March 3, 1928.

 

 

DAIRYING AND CIVILIZATION

SERVI AR, far back in the night of time, when Man of the Old
EUR Stone Age lived in Europe and Asia, animal husbandry
Bl B98 had its beginning. We have no written history of those

meal) carly times, but recent excavations and discoveries show
chat catele were tamed by Man more than 40,000 years ago. In those
days man lived in savagery. He killed beasts with rude clubs and rocks,
ate their flesh for food and used their skins for clothing. He lived in
caves and passed his time hunting, and eating, and watching the herds
of wild cattle which roamed about.

As he sat in the sun day after day and looked at the herds he became
used to them, and soon came to have a feeling of ownership in them.
“If I catch and tame these cattle, I can have food when I want it,” he
thought. The more he thought about it the more he liked the idea and
he caught and tamed a few of the cattle.

Lake Dwellers Were Keepers of Cattle
Lake dwellers of the Old Stone Age whose homes have been found

beneath the waters of Lake Geneva, in Switzerland, were keepers of

cows. The Lake Dwellers lived in rude huts built on piles sunk in the
lake and connected with the shore by wooden bridges. The cattle were

Early Man and His Cattle
[3]

 
DAIRYING AND CIVILIZATION

 

ba bl Ad

Lr i

 

Swiss Lake Dwellers

sheltered in the buildings with their owners helping to keep the huts
warm in winter by their animal heat.

Milk played an important part in the diet of the people. It was kept
in earthenware jars, very much like churns, remains of which have
been found by excavators. The children tended the cows, took them to
the mainland to graze and brought them back at night to safeguard
them from wild beasts.

Milking was discovered when a mother died and left a crying infant.
A father anxious to save the life of the child bethought to draw milk
from a cow of his herd. This father was the first dairyman. In that
pre-historic day was established the interdependence of Man and
cattle which has increased rather than diminished down through the
centuries.

H. G. Wells in his “Outline of History” points out that civilization
began when the huntsman turned herdsman. This historian also tells
us that animal husbandry was the earliest form of agriculture leading
to farming and planting. Speaking of early man he says:

“He learned to turn the cattle when they wandered too far; he
brought his better brain to bear to guide them to fresh pasture.

He hemmed the beasts into valleys and enclosures where he could be
sure to find them again. He fed them when they starved, and so

[4]

 

 

DAIRYING AND CIVILIZATION

 

slowly he tamed them. Perhaps his agriculture began with the storage
of fodder. He reaped before he sowed. Man storing grain grasses
for his cattle might easily come to beat out grain for himself.”

Aryans the First Herdsmen
The Aryans who dwelt on the plains of Central Asia, and from

whom the White races of the world trace a common descent, were the
first herdsmen. As the herds of cattle increased rude homes were
erected in the vicinity of the pastures. When drought wasted one
pasture the herdsmen moved their cattle on to new grazing ground.

It then occurred to man that, in seasons of abundant grass, he
could cut and store food for his cattle against the time of drought. It
was another short step to scratching the surface of the ground that
grass might grow more abundantly. Man became a tiller of the soil
and the Age of Cultivation began, ushered in by the inter-dependence
of Man and cattle.

When the Aryans started to cultivate the soil families began to
group themselves as tribes and clans in districts of pasturage, and in
times of danger came together with their cattle to fight off an enemy
which sought to take away their rich lands. But all the peoples had not
settled in communities and the nomads roaming about in search of
pasture for their cattle often made war on the more settled peoples.

The nomads made greater use of milk for food because they did
not stay long enough in one place to raise crops. Special attention was
given to breeding cows for milk, and these nomadic Aryans were prob-
ably the first peoples to practice such selection. Cows which did not
give milk abundantly were killed and others raised to take their places.

According to historians there were cattle in all countries except
Australia, New'Zealand and the Western Continent at a very early
date. Domesticated in large herds by the Early Aryans in Central Asia
the cattle were taken across the mountains into India, down into
Palestine and Egypt, and north to Greece, Rome and France.

One of the oldest pictured records of the milking of cows was
[51]

 
 

DAIRYING AND CIVILIZATION

 

 

 

. Babylonian Milking Scene
recently unearthed near Babylon. In the ruins of a building believed
to be more than six thousand years old were found carvings in stone
showing a milking scene; cows and their calves and men doing the

milking, using tall jars shaped very much like a stone churn to catch
the lacteal fluid.

Ancient Egyptian civilization left many records of dairying. In one
of their pictures, believed to have been made 4,000 B. C., the first
churning scene is found, and butter is shown in finished rolls very
much like those made on farms in America today.

Discovery of Butter-Making

The Early Aryans are given credit for discovery of butter-making.
Butter was hailed as a miracle by the nomads, for like many other
foods it was discovered accidentally. It was a habit of the nomads to
pour milk into goatskin bags to afford them food as they journeyed
from one pasturage to another. One day after a long hard trip they
opened the skins to find that the milk had been jolted into an appe-
tizing mass by the movement of the horses and camels. The butter
was tasted, pronounced good, and regarded as a miraculous gift from
the gods.

Proclaimed by the Early Aryans as a miraculous gift of the gods,

[6]

 

 

 

DAIRYING AND CIVILIZATION

 

~ butter has been held in high esteem throughout the succeeding cen-

turies. The Hindoos learned the art of butter-making from the
Aryans, and considered it such a perfect food that they used it in their
religious ceremonials.

The cow came to be respected by the Hindoos because she was
the source of butter—the life-giving food. The people were forbidden
to kill cows because butter was used for sacrificial purposes. The
killer was penalized with a month’s penitence. The offender of the
sacred law was forced to sleep in the stable; follow the herds all day
and purify himself by giving another cow to take the place of the one
5

The sacred books of the Hindoos and their folklore stories pay
high tribute to butter. The earliest Hindoo word for monarch means
“cowherd,” or keeper of cows.

Throughout history the cow has been looked upon as a source of
wealth and food. One of the first words for money was “pecunia”
from pecus (Greek) meaning cattle. When the first coins were made
in Greece and Rome the cow’s head was stamped upon the ingots.

The cow was worshipped in India, Babylonia and Tyre. The Egyp-
tians likened the river Nile to a milch cow. Buddha said, “Like unto
a mother, a father, a brother, and other relatives, the cows are our best
friends in which medicines are produced. They give food and strength
and likewise they give happiness.”

Man’s Lot Shared by Cattle

Throughout history Man’s lot has been shared by his cattle. Since
Man of the Old Stone Age domesticated the cow she has been con-
trolled by Man, and with him she has crossed deserts, plains, moun-
tains and seas to serve him and his children under new conditions and
in strange surroundings.

In the early centuries the Greeks referred to Italy as a country of
cattle. In Rome white oxen were considered of great value, and to kill
one was considered as serious an offense as to kill a man.

[71]

 
DAIRYING AND CIVILIZATION

 

Then came the fall of Rome and the beginning of the Dark Ages—
the thousand years of fighting and plague and pestilence—the fall of
the Western empire and the decay of civilization which had been built

up after thousands of centuries of effort.

The social and economic structure of the Roman empire fell into
~ ruin, and only the cultivators and peasants found their circumstances
little changed. The keepers of cattle fled to the Alpine passes and
dairying remained practically hidden during the seven centuries of
fighting. Italian historians state that the invaders stole the secrets of
butter and cheese-making and introduced them into France, Germany,
and the Scandinavian countries, which nations soon came into compe-
tition with Italy, taking from her the domination of the dairy indus-
try which she had held for a century.

When invaders landed on the British Isles in the early centuries,
they found the Celts had cattle. Because of the ceaseless fighting,
these were driven back into the rugged parts of Scotland and Wales
and became the base of the native cattle found in those countries
today. The conquerors brought other cattle with them, and when
Julius Cesar took the Island, many large herds of domesticated cattle
were found. The cattle of the Channel Islands are believed to have
come from Normandy, and during the Norman conquest, additional
cattle were carried from France to England.

Conquering Invaders

[8]

 

 

 

DAIRYING AND CIVILIZATION

 

Butter Buried in Peat Bogs

The Irish peasants made a practice of burying butter in the peat

bogs to hide it from the invaders. In those days, butter was the meas-

ure of a man’s wealth; the most influential man in the community was
the man who had hidden away the largest amount of butter. After the
invaders had departed, the hidden butter was uncovered for food.
In many instances, however, the
peasant who had buried the butter
had been killed, or the tree which
had been planted over the spot had
been destroyed, and the treasure
was not found for many years.
In 1695, John Houghton, an
Englishman, visited Ireland and
later wrote a book in which he
spoke of the habit formed by the
Irish of burying butter in the peat
bogs. This custom was not entirely
peculiar to Ireland. It was also the
habit of the people of Dardistan,
Asia, where butter was kept for one
hundred years before it was used.
Historians state that the Dardi-
stans did not like the flavor of fresh
butter, but considered an extreme
delicacy a product that had been Burying Butter
buried a century. |
In England, the manufacture of cheese was entirely in the hands of
the women. Secrets of cheese-making were handed down from mother
to daughter. If man entered the business at all, it was for the purpose
of lifting and turning the heavy cheeses.

[9]

 
DAIRYING AROUND THE WORLD

seeWHIE art of butter-making dates back to the Early Aryans
Rusted Ui who accidentally discovered the food when milk carried
sou Jill in goatskin bags was churned into butter by the movement
EG of the horses and camels.
umerous references are found in history to prove that butter-
making by the ancients dates as far back i ids B. C. Tradition
reaches back much farther. Benno Martiny in his treatise “Die Milch”
makes references to the Indians of Asia, the Hebrews, the Greeks, the
Romans, the Teutons, of 2000 B. C., as well as to history of later
centuries.
In India, butter is called “Ghee,”
and in Arabia “Lebban.” Our “but-
ter” means in derivation, “cheese of
kine.” Butter is also known as
“Chem’ah” from the Arabic word
meaning “coagulated.”
In the history of Ancient Greece,
we find that the Greeks knew how
to make butter from milk. Herodot
and Hippocrates report that the
Thracians made butter from cow’s
milk. The Roman Plinius refers
many times to butyrum (butter) as
an addition to bread.

Ancient Methods of
Churning

In ancient times, the milk was
tied up in a goatskin bag, sus-
pended from three poles driven into the ground, and swung to and
fro until the butter granules formed. Another early method of churn-

[10]

Ancient Churning

 

DAIRYING AROUND THE WORLD

ing was to pour the milk into earthen vessels and beat it with the
hands. Later a wooden stick was used for stirring the liquid and this
was subsequently changed to a stick carrying spokes, which developed
after a time into a dasher fitted into a vertical churn.

Primitive methods of churning are still used in certain parts of
South America. The cream is poured into gourds or skin bags, and
thrown across the back of a donkey; the animal is made to trot around

until the cream is churned. Another method used in parts of the Ar-

gentine not so very long ago, was to take a goatskin bag full of
cream and tie each end to long ropes which, in turn, were fastened to

the saddle of a horseman, who rode at a gallop with the bag bumping

along the ground behind him until the butter was made.
In Mrs. Child’s History of Women (1835) are found references to

butter-making which have been briefed by
Pirtle as follows: | |

AraBiAN WoMEN: “Arabian women put the

milk into a goat skin. This is suspended by

strong cords to the branch of a tree and a

woman shakes it with all her might until the

butter is produced. The skins are seldom ¢ :

washed and the butter, of course, is none of %..

the sweetest. Butter is used very freely by this

tribe (Kereks) and they consider it the high-

est meanness to sell it. A “butterseller” is a

most contemptuous epithet, and the daughter

of sch would have no chance to get a hus-

an n .

Moorist Women: “They make butter in | |

 

goat skins exposed to the sun. When the
woman makes the cheese, she separates the
curd from the whey with the flower of the |

great-headed thistle, or wild artichoke. As iE
stout women are desired, the daughters are I

compelled to drink large quantities of camel

milk each day.” In Arabia

[2]

 
DAIRYING AROUND THE WORLD

ArricAN WomMEN (Soudan): “Make butter by stirring in a cala-
bash, or shaking i in 4 kin 2 the Arabs do. A folklore sory of
ese people states that ‘the white ipping i
Shest Sechle seats dint white man was produced by dipping in
ScyrHiaNs: “The Scythians produced butter by shaking it in a jar.”

In the 16th century, F. Twamley, in his book “Dairying Exemplified

‘or Business of Cheesemaking,” gives the following description of
butter-making in England:

“The farmer pours the cream into a cloth, neither too thick nor too

thin, the corners are gathered together and fastened securely so that

nothing comes in contact with the cream. The whole is then buried in

the earth at a depth of 7 to 12 inches, and taken out at the end of 12

hours, when the cream will be found quite firm. It is worked, a little

water having been poured over it, and the buttermilk immediately

separated from the butter. The operation is said to furnish butter of

excellent quality.”

Ancient Uses

Many interesting stories are told regarding the ancient uses of but-
ter. Hayward reports the following: |

“In early times, butter was employed in many ways. The Hindoos
used it for the greatest and holiest sacrifices in their worship. The

 

 

 

 

Butter for Beauty

DAIRYING AROUND THE WORLD

 

 

 

Greeks and Romans did not use butter for food, but as a standard
remedy for injuries to the skin. The soot of burned butter was re-
garded as a specific remedy for sore eyes. The Romans also used it as
an ointment to enrich the skin and as a dressing for the hair. In the
time of Alexander I, certain of the Macedonians anointed them-
selves with milk oil; and Galen records that in many cold regions,
people used butter in the bath. Historians speak of butter used as a
remedy for wounded elephants, and within a century, butter was
used in large quantities in Scotland and North England for smear-
ing sheep, also for oil for lamps. Ji
Besides being applied externally, it was used internally for various
troubles. In Spain, as late as the 17th century, butter was found in
the medicine shops for external use only. In the middle of the previ-
ous century, ‘A medicinal and economic treatment of butter’ sets
forth in detail the value and use of butter as a remedy.”

The people of Tibet have many strange 5

report: uf

uses for butter. Pirtle gives the following 2 pl” vl] Au
Bi Te ars fi his

“In Tibet, where cows and Yaks TH
abound and milking is one of the duties al
of the women, there is no fresh milk.
Tibetans say that they drink buttermilk
because sweet milk impedes the breath-
ing, and that by churning all the milk
they are able to get butter enough.
They burn butter in their lamps, they
color it, and mold it into patterns on
cakes that adorn their altars. They eat
it and wear it. Soldiers’ rations include
sheep bladders of butter, travelers carry
them on a journey, housewives keep
them hanging in the kitchen for years,
if possible, for they prize rancid butter
as Westerners do ripe cheese. In the
winter, both men and women smear Milking Time
themselves with butter until they shine E
and reek with it. They feed themselves with buttered tea—a soup
made of boiled tea, strained through a sieve and then churned with

[13]

 
DAIRYING AROUND THE WORLD

 

butter and thickened with ‘tsamba,’ a ground barley. Europeans dis-
like this mixture and hospitable Tibetans tax the politeness of shiver-
ing, unbuttered guests by adding an extra lump of long-aged butter
as a special compliment.” ir

Early Commerce

Butter became an article of commerce in the first centuries of the
world’s history, when it was shipped from India to ports on the Red
Sea. In the 12th century, Scandinavia exported considerable butter.
German traders sent vessels to Norway and exchanged their cargoes
of wine for butter and fish. This practice was frowned upon by the
Scandinavian King who considered the exchange of butter for wine
injurious to his people, and put a stop to the traffic in 1186. In the
14th century, Sweden exported butter, but the absence of scientific
methods precluded the rapid development of the industry.

Twelfth Century Traders

Science was first applied to butter-making in the middle of the 19th
century; the barrel churn was invented and experimentation in churn-
ing methods improved the product. Between 1840 and 1850, Denmark
became famous for its fine dairies and high-grade butter. The churn-
ing was done by a class of expert dairymaids who were educated in the

[14]

 

DAIRYING AROUND THE WORLD

Netherlands, and many of the maids were later employed by farmers
of the Danish Islands who sought to introduce improved methods of
butter-making.

In the Sixties, the practical work of the dairymaids was supple-
mented by the scientific research of Professor Segelcke, and Danish
butter became known all over the world and captured many desirable
markets. The Danes were first to pack butter in sealed tins, and
Danish sweet butter so packed was regarded as the only butter that
would stand export to the tropics.

 
THE COW IN THE UNITED STATES

ey IATTLE did not exist in America until brought from
[foe Spain by Columbus. It took the cow many centuries to
i A ad | travel from the homeland of the nomadic Aryans, on the
ers plains of Central Asia, to the shores of America.

The cow accompanied Columbus on his second voyage of discovery
and landed with him at San Domingo. There she remained for forty
years before again crossing the sea, this time to land on the shores of
Florida and Mexico. At the time of her arrival on the Southern shore,
the great areas of prairie lands fed vast herds of bison. The Indians
had no cattle, and, in fact, they had no milk-producing animal that
gave more milk than was needed to feed its young.

Columbus at San Domingo

But America had marvelous natural advantages for the develop-
ment of dairying, and this, combined with scientific study and im-
proved methods, has placed the United States in the front rank of the
dairying nations of the world.

In the 16th century, the New World became the center of interest
among the nations of Europe. Close in the wake of Spain and Portu-
gal, came France and England and Holland, each in turn taking up
the role of expansion and development of overseas empires.

[16]

 

 

THE COW IN THE UNITED STATES

 

Conquering the Western Wastes

Between the year 1538, when the first cattle were landed in Florida,

‘and the landing of the Pilgrims at New Plymouth in 1620, cows had

been imported by the Portuguese into Newfoundland, by the French
into Arcadia, and by the English into Virginia.

When the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth, they brought no cows with
them, and owing to their isolation, were unable to secure cattle from

neighboring settlements. As a consequence, many children died before

a ship bringing cows arrived from Holland two years later. Following
its arrival, Governor Bradford apportioned one cow to every six persons.

The lesson so dearly taught was not forgotten by the Puritans, and
when the Westward movement began, the cow accompanied the van-
guard; a faithful ally of those who pressed forward to conquer the
uncultivated wastes and extend the frontier of American civilization.

Advancement of Dairying Rapid

During the one hundred fifty years from the time of the landing of
the Pilgrims to the Revolutionary War, the advancement of dairying
was rapid. The New England States and New York and Pennsylvania
were especially adapted to dairying, and it was in the Northeast that
the Kingdom of the Cow was first established to bring wealth and
prosperity.

The Dutch settlers in New Amsterdam crossed the Hudson river
and dairy farms sprang into being along the West bank of the river.

[17]

 
THE COW IN THE UNITED STATES

The Dutch were joined by the English, Germans and Scots, and within
a few years after the Revolutionary War, a prosperity, almost entirely
dependent upon the cow, was realized.
In Orange County, New York, was erected the first creamery in the
United States. It was built in 1856, just six years after California had
been admitted into the Union. Today thousands of creameries stretch

from coast to coast, the past seventy years having witnessed a rapid

development in the dairy industry.

The first cheese factory was built in Oneida County, New York,
five years prior to the first creamery. These two factories formed the
nucleus about which was builded commercial dairying in the United
States. In dollars and cents, the farm value of milk produced on
American farms in 1926 exceeded the combined value of the entire
cotton, wheat and potato crops.

In 1926, the cow contributed $3,335,000,000 to the value of farm
production in the United States. This is over a quarter of the total
value of farm production, and the dairy industry is the biggest and
most prosperous branch of the farm business. The farm value of milk
production was in excess of the value of all the automobiles and trucks
manufactured in 1926 as well as greater than the total output of the
entire steel industry. These are the values of the milk at the farm.
For milk and manufactured dairy products, butter and cheese, con-
sumers of the world paid for the product of the American cow some
$5,500,000,000 in 1926.

One Cow for Every Four Persons

According to a report of the United States Department of Agri-
culture, there were nine million cows in the United States in 1870. In
1910, this figure was advanced to twenty million, the percentage of
increase keeping close to that of the growth in population. In 1924, the
cow census reported more than twenty-two million cows hard at work
for man. By comparing this figure with population statistics, it shows

[18]

 

THE COW IN THE UNITED STATES

that for every four persons, there is one cow at work three hundred

sixty-five days in the year.

In 1926 the cows of the United States produced fourteen billion
gallons of milk, which if poured into ten-gallon cans and placed side
by side would girdle the globe fifteen times—a highway of milk six-

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Milky Way Around the World

teen feet wide and two feet deep going round this world of outs. The
dairy farmers of the United States produced a quarter more milk than

the neatly eleven billion gallons of gasoline that in 1926 was con-

sumed by our automobiles, trucks, tractors, engines and for other
purposes.

Increase in production is necessary to meet increased consumption.
In 1916, the consumption of milk and dairy products was equivalent
to thirty-seven billion quarts of milk, which had increased to fifty-
seven billion quarts in 1926, a growth of 51 per cent in ten years.

The per capita consumption of fluid milk in 1926 was 55.3 gal-
lons for every man, woman and child in the United States. This is an
increase of more than two quarts of fluid milk per capita over 192s,
and an increase of 51 quarts, or 30 per cent, over 1917, the first year

for which data is available.
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THE COW IN THE UNITED STATES

 

Butter consumption increased to 17.82 pounds per capita in 1926,
which is a half pound over 1925, and 3.2 pounds over 1917.

Purposes for Which Milk Is Used

Milk utilization in the United States, percentage of total produc-
tion of whole milk, as given by the United States Department of

Agriculture for 1926 is as follows: Creamery butter, 25.245; farm but-

ter, 10.604; cheese, 3.539; condensed and evaporated milk, 3.589; powd-
ered milk, 0.71; powdered cream, 0.005; malted milk, 0.038; sterilized
milk, (canned) o.oor; milk chocolate, 0.142; ice cream, 3.698; for
household purposes, 46.716; fed to calves, 3.264; wasted, 3.000.

 

HOW BUTTER IS. MADE

= i N THE early days of the dairy industry in the United

3

Eg] States, butter was made principally in the farm kitchen,

7 bl by the women of the family. The milk was set in tin pans,
Ieee) or other shallow vessels, on the pantry shelf and after
thirty-six hours or more, the cream was skimmed off with a flat scoop
and placed in the churn. The deep can set in cold water, was initro-
duced in 1860 and made it possible to raise the cream more quickly.
The farm butter was hauled to the country stores, or was packed in
large tubs and shipped to the larger cities.

The growth of cities with the consequent separation of the family
from its food provider, the cow, and the increased demand for butter,
brought about a change in the industry and caused the introduction
of the factory system of manufacture. The first creamery in the
United States erected in 1856 brought about co-operative and com-
munity methods of operation. Invention of new devices and improved
processes of butter-making made possible the economic handling of
larger amounts of milk and cream.

In 188s, the centrifugal separator, invented by DeLaval, a Swedish
engineer, was introduced into the United States. Prior to that time,

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Farm Butter Making
[21]

 
 

HOW BUTTER IS MADE

 

the farmers hauled the milk to the creameries where it was set in ship-
ping cans and later skimmed, or they set and skimmed the milk on the
farm and hauled the cream to the factory.

When the centrifugal separator was introduced, the creameries
established skimming stations, within easy hauling radius, to which
farmers brought their milk. In the early nineties, the hand separator
‘was perfected, making it possible for the farmer to skim the milk on
the farm, haul the cream to the factory, and keep the skim milk at
home for his calves, hogs and chickens. ;

Babcock Test Invented

The growth of the factory system of butter-making developed the
need of an accurate method of measuring the percentage of butterfat
in milk or cream, since the basis I Mn
of payment to the farmer is the LAC
amount of butterfat in the milk or
cream. Doctor S. M. Babcock, an
American chemist, at the Univer-
sity of Wisconsin, invented in 1890
an apparatus to test the fat content
of milk, thereby placing the butter
industry upon a more substantial
and permanent basis. The Babcock
test also enabled the producer to
test the milk of his own cows, and
weed out those which were unprof-
itable as producers of milkfat, and
helped the food authorities to pro-
tect the consumer against adulter-
ated milk. :

Other discoveries followed to Babcock Testing
lend their aid in expanding the butter industry. Power machinery,
combined churns and washers, artificial refrigeration, pasteurization

[22]

 

 

HOW BUTTER IS MADE

 

and cream ripening by the use of pure culture starters were gradually
introduced, improving the methods, reducing the cost of manufacture,

‘and improving the quality of the product. It is estimated that go per

cent of all the butter made in American creameries is manufactured
from pasteurized cream.

It is a far cry from the primitive methods of butter-making to pres-
ent-day factory processes. Even the hand churn has gone the way of
the spinning wheel and the hand loom, and in 1926, 73 per cent of the
1,956,000,000 pounds of butter produced in the United States, was
made in factories. Butter made on the farm is today confined to that
which is consumed on the farm, and handled by the country stores.

The farm, however, remains the source of raw material, milk, and
to protect the consumer, strict regulations surround its production.
The dairy farms where the milk is produced, and the milk itself, from
the time of production, transportation, and through the process of
separation and the manufacture of the cream into butter, are under
constant supervision.

Beginning at the farm the corrals and buildings where the cows are
kept must be scrupulously clean, and concrete floors and sidewalls are
required in the milking barns. Milkers must be free from disease, have
clean hands, and work in clean clothing. The cows must be washed,
or brushed, just before milking to protect the milk from contamina-
tion with dust, dirt and other impurities. The milk must be cooled
immediately in order to take the animal heat out of it and guard
against bacterial decomposition and spoilage, and must be shipped in
clean, dry, sterilized cans to preserve the quality of the cream. Rapid
transit of cream from farm to factory is another important factor in
lessening the danger of fermentations damaging to the quality of
butter.

Strict requirements regulate the manufacture of butter in Cali-
fornia. The creameries are inspected regularly under the supervision
of the State Bureau of Dairy Control, and must be maintained and
operated in a sanitary manner. To insure a highgrade product the

[23]

 
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nt

HOW BUTTER IS MADE

 

California law requires a standard of not less than 80 per cent of
milkfat, and not more than 16 per cent of moisture in butter. The
law also requires that all cream for butter-making, unless it be from
cows that have successfully passed the tuberculin test, must be pas-
teurized. |

Pasteurization consists in heating the milk to a temperature of from
140 to 145 degrees Fahrenheit; holding it at that point for twenty-five
minutes and then cooling quickly to a low temperature.

Louis Pasteur, a French scientist,
discovered that the heating of li-
quids to a certain degree destroyed
the bacteria contained therein, and
applied his process to the treatment
of milk and other liquids.

The invention of scientific ap-
paratus has brought about many
changes in the original process; ex-
perimentation and engineering skill
have been combined to perfect the
method discovered by Pasteur and
modern machines can process fif-
teen hundred gallons of milk at a
time.

Proper pasteurization does not
affect the flavor, nutritive value, di- ;
gestibility or chemical components ols Beste
of the milk or cream; nor does it destroy any of the vitamins.

In the modern creamery every effort is made to make prompt use
of the cream upon its arrival, inasmuch as prolonged holding invites
fermentation. When the cream cans arrive at the factory, they are
lined up on the receiving floor where the cream is sampled and graded
according to the approved cream tests. The cans are placed on the
cream conveyor on which they travel over the cream scales and are

[24]

 

 

HOW BUTTER IS MADE

weighed. The cream is then moved on to the forewarmers, where it is
“dumped.” The forewarmer is a low vat equipped with a revolving coil
for warming the cream, in order to reduce it to a uniform consistency
and make pasteurization more effective. From the forewarmers, the
milk is pumped over the regenerators and flows to the pasteurizers.
Leaving the pasteurizers, the cream is cooled, then discharged into
the ripening vats. It is then pumped into giant revolving containers
where it is churned at low temperature until the butterfat gathers into

yellow granules about the size of grains of wheat. The buttermilk is

pumped off into the buttermilk tank and the butter, which has gath-
ered into a mass, is washed to remove whatever buttermilk is left.
After salting and working, to eliminate the excess moisture, the fin-
ished butter is transferred to tubs, or crates, and after chilling in the
cooler, it is cut by the butter-cutting machines and wrapped in paper
by the wrapping machine. In the entire process, the cream and butter
is not touched with hands.

 
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gi la tan st ins
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THE COW IN CALIFORNIA
Ven SOWS were brought to California from Mexico by the ex-

fut BA plorer Cabrillo, and by covered wagon trains which toiled
ho J % » Westward across the plains and deserts.

[Daeg Dairying was first introduced into California by a Jesuit
priest named Father Kino in 1697, when he brought cows from Son-
ora, Mexico. He was followed in 1701 by another Jesuit priest named
Father Agarte, whom historians proclaim as California’s first agricul-
turist and report that “he made the desert blossom as the rose.”

The cows of the Jesuits were ill-conditioned and gave little milk. It
required the services of four men to milk one of these half-wild ani.
mals. One man would “snub” the cow’s nose to a post, holding the
rope tightly in his hand. Two others would seize the hind legs, throw
the animal to the ground, and keep the legs pinioned, while the fourth
man performed the actual milk- -
ing operation, carefully drawing
a few ounces of milk into an
earthen vessel.

When the Spanish Governors
secured control of California,
each soldier settler was given
several cattle with the land grant.
The cattle multiplied rapidly, for in early days killing of cows was
forbidden.

In those days, churns and cheese presses were unknown, but large
quantities of butter and cheese were made. Butter was made by a
process of stirring milk and cream together. The method of working
the mass to remove the buttermilk was not understood and in conse-
quence, the butter soon became rancid. The only cheese made at the
Missions was a sort of cottage cheese formed into cakes with the hands.

The discovery of gold in California brought thousands of settlers
to the coast. They came overland by pack train; by way of the

[26]

Cattle Given Settlers

 

THE COW IN CALIFORNIA

Sacramento Cattle Mart

Isthmus of Panama, and in sailing vessels around the Horn. The pop-
ulation of California increased at an amazing rate. More people meant

* more cows, and to meet the growing demand, large numbers of cows

were brought from Kentucky and England. During the late forties
and early fifties, Sacramento was the center of California’s cattle mar-
ket. Cows sold for $300 to $500 per head in the early mining days, but
with the importations of 1850, the market dropped to $150 to $50 per
head.

Settlers Swarm Into California

When gold was discovered, there were only a few hundred Ameri-
can settlers in California. Ten years later, there were 264,000 people
in California and 104,000 cows approximately one cow to every two
persons. Dairying became an established industry in California; fine
stock for breeding purposes were imported, and splendid herds were
built up by careful selection. Within a few years, California’s large
dairy farms, with their enormous yield of milk, butter and cheese,
compared favorably with any in the world. Ja

With the coming of the railroad, the farmer population increased.
Large quantities of butter were shipped to Eastern States, and Cali-
fornia became famous for the richness and extent of its dairy lands.

I. C. Knowles founded the first large dairy in San Mateo County at
Colma in 1853, and was the first man to serve San Francisco with
milk in a really commercial way. In 1862, the Steel Brothers estab-

[27]

 
THE COW IN CALIFORNIA

lished five dairy farms in San Mateo County, and were California’s
first manufacturers of cheese on a large scale.

In 1850, only 750 pounds of butter and 150 pounds of cheese were
produced in California. Ten years later the production jumped to
3,100,000 pounds of butter and 1,340,000 pounds of cheese.

The cow census of 1880 reported 210,000 milch cows in the State
producing 14,000,000 pounds of butter and 2,560,000 pounds of
cheese. The cow census of 1925 reported 603,000 cows in California
producing 73,599,000 pounds of butter and 17,863,000 pounds of
cheese, and in addition many other products, the entire output totaling
more than $126,000,000 in value. 2

Thirty Thousand Dairymen in California

In 1926 there were more than 30,000 dairy farmers in California,
and 130,000 men, women and children looked to the dairy industry for
support. More than $250,000,000 were invested in cows and dairy
equipment and $20,000,000 in dairy manufacturing plants.

During the seventies and eighties, California dairying was confined
to the moist pastures along the coast and near San Francisco as the
principal market for milk, butter and cheese. San Francisco County
ranked first in the production of milk; Marin County second, and
Sacramento County third.

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Dairying in California
[28]

 

FOOD VALUE OF BUTTER

AN (EOF 1EN the ancients used butter for food and medicine, they
\ \ 2k fl knew instinctively that it was good for them. They grew
: AY strong and vigorous, and history records that the pastoral
SENBGAN people who lived almost entirely upon dairy products were

dle to subdue their less hardy opponents.

What the ancients knew instinctively, modern science has proved by
a careful study of foods. It has
been substantiated that dairy prod-
ucts have a much greater nutritive
and energy-producing value than
any other foods used in the modern
diet.

In recent years, new and surpris-
ing relations between food and
health have been discovered. Doc-
tor E. V. McCollum of Johns Hop-
kins University and other scientists,
have proved by actual feeding tests
that milk plays a vital role in nu-
trition and that children grow more
rapidly on dairy products than on
any other food.

Experimental studies conducted
over a period of years by McCol-
lum, Osborne and Mendel, proved the existence of hitherto unknown
dietary essentials—vitamins. They are fat-soluble and water-soluble
vitamins,—mysterious substances necessary to life and growth. Vita-
mins are to the body what the ignition spark is to the automobile and
without them the body is not properly nourished and cannot operate
at a high point of efficiency.

Vitamin A — the growth-promoting vitamin — is found in large

[20]

Butter for Health

 
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FOOD VALUE OF BUTTER

 

quantities in butterfat. The cow is the greatest conserver of Vitamin A
for human consumption. Milk stands at the head of the list of food
materials as a source of Vitamin A, which is not all removed with the
butterfat. |

“The discovery of Vitamin A did not come about through search
for a cure for disease, as did Vitamins B and C,” says Doctor Mary

Swartz Rose of Columbia University, “but as soon as Vitamin A was

recognized as a definite factor in growth
(1913), and experiments to determine
the effect of withholding it from the diet
were made, the observation was fre-
quently made that the animals developed
a characteristic eye disease. If not ar-
rested, blindness ensues. This disease is
known as Xerophthalmia.”

In 450 B. C, the Greeks discovered
the soot of burned butter to be a cure for
sore eyes when applied externally. A little
more than a decade ago Osborne and
Mendel experimented and found butter
to be a preventive and cure for Xeroph-
thalmia (dry eye) when eaten as a food.

Doctor C. E. Bloch of Copenhagen,
reports that during 1912 to 1916, he ob-
served many cases of Xerophthalmia
among the children of the Danish poor.
The most severe cases were among chil- Treating the Eyes.
dren about a year old, who had been fed
chiefly skimmed milk practically free from butterfat, and who were
threatened with blindness.

Scientists report that butter in the diet not only prevents Xeroph-
thalmia, but a surplus of Vitamin A in the body maintains resistance

to disease and a high level of physical vigor.

{30]

 

 

 

FOOD VALUE OF BUTTER

Butter is our most dependable and plentiful source of the growth-
promoting Vitamin A. It is also a valuable source of Vitamin D, the -
protective factor which helps to prevent rickets and aids in the assimi-
lation of calcium. -

In addition to these important vitamins butter also contains:

Protein—for blood and muscle
Calcium—for bones and teeth
Phosphorus—for cell tissue
Iron—for blood.

“Butter is especially valuable for children” says a bulletin of the
United States Department of Agriculture. “It supplies the very essen-
tial food element—fat—in its most palatable and easily digested
form.”

Doctor Woods Hutchinson, well known writer on nutrition says,

~ “Don’t give children bread and butter; give them butter and bread.”

Doctor E. V. McCollum, of Johns Hopkins University, character-
izes the value of butter in the human dietary as follows:

“The fat, known as cream, from which butter is made, is at once
the most appetizing of all food fats and is remarkable for its content
of the vitamin known as fat soluble Vitamin A.

“This substance has been found by Professor Mellanby of England
and by others, to play a very important role in the development of the
bones and the body. Butter furnishes a substance which the diet should
always contain in abundance, in order to protect the growing child
against rickets, which is a disease now very common in Europe and

America.

“This vitamin, which is found so plentifully in butterfat, is not only
important in bone-building, but is also important in cell-building. It
is this important part which this vitamin performs in both bone and
cell-building that makes butter such a necessary food for the growing

child as well as the health of the adult.”

[31]

 
BIBLIOGRAPHY

History of Dairying—T. R. PirTLE.

The Butter Industry—Or10 F. HUuNzZIKER.
The Book of Butter—E. S. GUTHRIE.
Manual of Milk Products—W. A. Stocking.

Facts Concerning the History, etc. of Butter—Harry HAywARD.
(U. S. Dept. of Agri., B. A. I, Cir. 56.)

Trend of the Butter Industry—T. R. PirrLE.
(U. S. Dept. of Agri., Dept. Cir. 70.)

Production and Uses of Milk.
(Hoard’s Dairyman, October 10, 1927.)

The Outline of History—H. G. WEeLLs.

History of California—BANCROFT.

The History of the Pacific States—BANCROFT.

History of California—ELDREDGE.

The Newer Knowledge of Nutrition—McCorLrum AND SiMMONDS.
Food Products—Doctor H. C. SHERMAN.
The Foundations of Nutrition—MAry Swartz Rose.

Food, Nutrition and Health—McCorLum AND SIMMONDS.

WALLACE KIBBEE & CO. ~~ PRINTERS SAN FRANCISCO

 

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END OF TITLE