This Volume belonged to the Library of the late
REV. DAVID WELSH, D.D., which was purchased and
presented to the Library of the New College by a num-
ber cf his friends and admirers, as a mark of resliect

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THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY

OF CALIFORNIA

BEATRIX FARRAND
LIBRARY FUND

 

 

 

if}!
V I I: L A
GARDEN DIRECTORY.

 

IRE

VILLA
GARDEN DIRECTORY,

OR
MONTHLY INDEX OF WORK,
TO BE DONE IN N

TOWN AND VILLA GARDENS, SKRUBBRIES AND‘
PARTERRES:

WITH:
H IN T S

0}: THE TREATMENT OF SHRUBS AND FLOWERS,‘ -
USUALLY KEPT IN THE GREEN-ROOM, THE
LOBBY, AND THE DRAWING-ROOM-

THE THIRD EDITIOIV, filUCI-I IBIPROVEI).

BY WALTER NICOL,

BESIGXER 0F GARDENS, HOT-HOUSES, ETC. AUTHOR 0F THE (L l-‘ORC—I

xxc, FRUIT, AND KITCHEN GARDENER;” THE “ PRACTICAL

!

”Axum ; ’ THE “ GARDEN En’s RALEsnAn, “ mo.

 

EDINBURGH:
Primal by David Willison,
50R ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE AND CO. EDIXBURGH:
LONG-MAN, BURST, REES, ORME 85 BROW'N,
LONDON; AND JOHN CfillIvIlNG,
DUBLIN-

 

1 81 %.

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0mm?)

' snvmon.
Rec'd UCB ENVI DESIGN

W #995

E are"
M iii
f§i¥

5“" “E”
PREFA CE. stir/Nye

IT is believed there is no Book Of Gar—
dening on the Plan of this W'ork. . It is
intended as an assistant to Gentlemen,
whose business necessarily confines them
to the Chamber and to the Counting-
room, who seek health and recreation at
their Villas; and to the Ladies of their
families, who take upon themselves the

management of their own Gardens and

Parterres.

SOME Hints are offered on the Forma-
tion of the Grounds about Villas; Shrub-
.bries, and Parterres; in which the proper

I

. k“

“it“

..\'i Pimmc E.

distinction between those of a Place, and
of'a Villa, is pointed out; with remarks
on the style of their respective buildings,

and other accompaniments.

THE situation of the kitchemground,

.and the improvement of its soil, in parti-
.cnlar, is noticed; with the choice and ar-

rangement of Fruits for \Valls, .Espaliers,

and Standards ; of whicha description is

given, in order to aid the jut gment of
those unacquainted with their appearances,

in such choice. The kinds of trees and
shrubs, proper for the grounds of aV illa,
are also noticed; with remarks on their
disposition, and relative situations.

THE Index of IVorlr consists of Direc—

- tions for the cultu1e of C uhn ry Vegetaa

bles, Sallads, Herbs; the Planting; , Train—
111g, and General Management of Fruit.»

PREFACE‘ vii .

trees; and the Culture of Shrubs and
Flowers. To which are added, Hints on
the treatment of Exotic and other Plants,
usually kept in the Green-room, the Lob-
by, and the Drawing-room ; among which
will be found some improvements on the
present mode of managing these plants:—
And, a List, exhibiting the English and
corresponding Linnean Names of all'the
Plants mentioned in the course of the
.work.

Leith‘Vallc, 1
Jan. ‘2 . 18104}

 

CONTENTS.

 

Page;
’ SECT. L—Hints on the Formation of Villa Gar-
dens, Shrubbrz'es, and Parterres, 1

SECT. II.—0n soils, and their Improvement, 17

SECT. III.-—0n the Kinds of Wall and Espalz'er
F rails for Town and Villa Gardens,
the Aspect they should be placed in,
and the Distance at which they
should be planted, - 23

I SECI- IV.-0n tlze Kinds of Trees and Slu'ubsfit
for Villa Grounds and Gardens, 47

K CONTENTS;

.INDEX OF WORK.

Page;

January.—— Culinary Vegetables, - 55
Salluds, - - - 59

Wall and Espalz'er Fruits, - 60

Small Fruits, »- - 85

» Shrubs, »- - 88

Flowers, - — - 91
February.-— Culinary Vegetables, - 93
Sallads, - - 101

Wall, Espalier and Standard Fruits, 10‘2

‘ Small Fruits, - - ib.

. Shrubs, - - - 10:5

‘ Flowers, - - - 105

March.—— Culinary Vegetables, m — 1 09
Sallads, - - - 121

Herbs, . - - 12%

Wall, Espalier, and Standard Fruits, 129

Small Fruits, - - ' 131’

Slzrubs, - - - 1 33

1"lozcers, - ‘ -- 138

, CONTENTS. xi

Page

April.—Culinary Vegetables, - "M5
Sallads, - - - ~ 155

Herbs, - - - i 56

Wall, Espalier, and Standard F rmts, ib.

Small Fruits, - - 178

Shrubs, - - ‘ - 180

F lowers, - - 188
~i\lIaly’.—— Culinary Vegetables, - - 197
Il'all, Espalier, and Standard Fruits, 210

Small F wits, . - - 216

Shrubs, - ~ . 2 l 8
Flowers, - - - 219
Jana—Culinary Vegetables, - - 227
Sallaa’s, . - ' . .236

Wall, Espalier, and Standard Fruits, .ib.

Small F rails, - I - '239

Shrubs, . . - ib.
Flowers, - - .- - 2% I
.33u1y.—Culiazmy/ Vegetables, - , - ‘ 249
I’ot-lzerés, - - 256
M'edicinal 11erbs, - - 258

Wall and Eapalier Fruits, - ib-

CONTENTS;
Page.
J uly. —- Shrubs, - - - Q64
Rowers, - . . 255
Augusta—Culinary Vegetables, - 271
Sullads, ' - - 275
Herbs, - . - - 277
W111 and Espalier Fruits, - 278
Small Fruits, - - 281
Shrubs, - - - 282
Flowers, - - - ib.
SeptembenT—Culinarg Vegetables, - 291
Sallads, - - 303
Wall and Espalier man, 30%
Small. Fruits, - - 306
. Flowers, - b - 308
October.—Culz'nar_2/ Vegetables, - 313
Sallads, - - - 319
Wall and Espizlier Fruits, - 320
Small Fruits, - - 321
Shrubs, . . - 3‘22
Flowers, - ‘ - - 393

comm-rs. ‘ xiii

‘ Page.

November.—Culz'narg Vegetables, . 331
Sallads, - - 333 «

‘ Wall, Espalier, and Standard Fruits, 334‘

Shrubs, . - - ib.

Flowers, - - 335

December.—Culinarg Vegetables, - 337

Wall, Espalicr, and StandardFruz'ts, 339

Shrubs, - . ib.

Flowers, - - 34.0

 

Hints on the Treatment of Shrubs and Flowers hept
in the Green-Room, the Lobby, and the Draw-
ing-Room, - - - 341

 

List of the English and corresponding Linnean
Names of Plants mentioned 2'7? the course of the
Work, . ‘ - - 369

Index, - - - - 38.1

A i r
' “c r‘,
r’V‘V‘» New“ .:

 

amt:
VI L L A
GARDEN DIRECTORY.
.9...—

SECTION I.

HINTS ON THE FORMATION OF VILLA GARDENS,
SIIRUBBRIES, AND PARTERRES.

THE line of distinction between a Villa and a
Place, has hithertobeen but imperfectly drawn.
The object of the following hints is to mark this
line more clearly, and to assist those who may
not have turned their thoughts much upon the
subject, in the formation of their grounds, and
the disposition of trees, Shrubs, 8L0. whether use-
ful or ornamental.

The Villa. is one thing; the Country Resir
dence, and the Place, are of another cast: 50-.
are their respective Gardens.- But unfortunately
for the owners of many of our Villas, by a {illse
taste,» and an unnecessary display of wealth, their

A

2' ronuarron or VILLA canons.

external decorations have been assimilated to»
those of. the former..

To pretend to represent, on a few acres, the
buildings, plantations, and waters of a Place, is
absurd. Yet we sometimes meet with the belt,
the shrubbry, the double approach, the lawn, the
kitchen garden, the court of oflices, the prospect
tower, the temple, and even the lake, huddled to-
gether in a very extraordinary manner.

I shall not, in the following remarks, touch on
the architecture, or the internal structure of Vil-
las. I would here observe, however, that, ge--
nerally, the external appearance should be chaste-
and simple ; the house rather low than otherwise ;'
and that the out-houses, or offices, should be kept
very subordinate; also, gardemwalls, gates, or
lodges. \Ve have masonry enough in the town.
Trees, shrubs, and flowers, properly arranged,
should predominate.

The ownerof a Villa has it not always in his-
power to please himself, with respect to its situa-
tion. It must be conveniently situated for his
business, and not too distant. T he whole vici-
nage of the town where he resides may be tame,
and incapable ofafl'ording much variety of scenery.

mama-non or VILLA GARDENS; 5‘

In this case, he is to look for comfort and va-
riety chiefly within his own pale, and of course
will take greater pains in the decorations of his
ground, than another whose situation may be
more commanding. . ‘

Most generally, however, our commercial towns
are situated on inlets of the sea, or on rivers,
which afford pleasing situations for Villas. In
either of these cases, care should be taken, in
the disposition of the shrubbries, or other plan--
tations, to preserve the best views. The whole
should appear light and airy; nor should the'
place be bored in by high walls or hedges. The
outer fence need seldom be more than breast
high, on the inside ; being sunk, on the outside,
two feet, or a yard. “Tall-fences are always (lull -
and heavy, but are certainly most immediate. A .
fence composed of a wall, sunk three or four feet, ~
and raised one foot above the surface, with a.
good hedge behind it, is perhaps the most eligi-
ble in this case. The hedge need not he suffered
to rise more than to four feet, except in certain
points, for the sake of shelter; and thus would
the views to the sea, river, or the distant country,

always be clear from the walks and grounds.

4 FORMATION or VILLA GARDENS.

I am aware that many. will object to this kind
of fence, on the score of its insufficiency to turn
our own species. But I might ask, What kind of
fence is sufficient for the purpose? If rogues are
determined to be in, they will get in. A very
trifling fence will restrain an honest man. I am
here speaking of Villas at some distance in the
country, at least a mile or two. Those situated
in the near vicinage of the city, and which may
rather be termed town houses, are often necessarily
garrisoned in; especially where the police is not
vigilant. This is a misfortune to the occupier, if
he have a family of children. and even to himself,
in. consequence of being excluded from a free cir:
lation of air.

Next to the error of rearing high fences, is that
of bounding the whole premises by a close and
connected belt of shrubbry, or other plantation ;
leaving the house standing in a small open pads-
dock, unadorned by a plant of any kind ; the belt
being often separated from it by a deep and broad
ditch, or ha-ha. *

 

" The sunk fence can only be admissible in the front ground
of 8; Villa, when placed in such a manner as to cross the view

from the windows, and it may be useful in dividing the lawn in
t

a,

FORMATION OF VILLA GARDENS. 5

i This style is no doubt in imitation of that of
the park; and the reason, probably, why we
have not clumps and groups of trees here as
in a park, is, that the belt is sufficiently near to
the house, either for shelter, or to be admired for
its variety. In a spot of a few acres, however,
this style cannot be admitted with any degree of
propriety. 'In the first place, you can-not look
from a window without looking into a ditch,
which must convey an idea of restraint and con-
finement, very unpleasant. Next, the small for-
mal lawn, if it may be so called, seems a perfect
dish, with as formal an edging; and, from no
point can a view of distant objects be had, with-
out being interrupted by this edging; which is
perplexing to the eye, in a great measure, al«
though the situation of the house may be such as
to admit of looking over it.

0‘ a few fes-

D,
toons or groups of-vanous dunensxons, being hung

Instead of this formal‘belt or edgin

on the outer fence, with intervening single trees,

 

that way, if it be of any considerable extent; but a light
moveable railing, consisting of flcaks or hurdles, will be found
~20 answer the purpose better, as with these the
divided in any :hapc or proportion, at pleasure.

ground can be

6‘ FORMATION OF VILLA GARDENS.‘

sometimes pretty close to the groups, and'some-

times more detached, so as to form irregular vistas,
would be more airy, and also more in character
here. The ditch, of course, would not be re-
quired, as the groups could be fenced by a pale
or railing; and thus an acquisition of ground
might be obtained. * The formality of the lawn
might be broken, by interspersing a few groups
and single trees in it; which should be done in
an irregular, and seemingly unstudied manner;
not crowding many together.

The larger groups, if the lawn is to be pastured,
could be fenced, as said above, by a pale or railing;
which railing might either be of wood, or of iron,
as found most convenient; but considering its

durability, and the scarcity and high price of tim-
ber in many parts of the country, the latter will
be found to be as cheap as the former. It need
not be a heavy fence. .(Cast iron posts, an inch

~square, set in blocks ofstone, sunk under the sur-

 

' So evident has this appeared to some. that they have un-

\ done the formal inner fence, and filled up the ha-ha, ‘even nt-a

conriderable expense. From the acquisition of ground, and die

apparent extent gained, by thinning out the belt, and sowing

it down in grass, 1 do not know an instance in which the owner
=has,nct been pleased.

I'ORMATION or VILLA (mavens. “Z

face, at the distance of two yards from each other,
was three or four horizontal rows of strong wire
run through them, is sufficient for the purpose.
The detached plants might be fenced in the same
manner, until they were out of danger. Three
posts, forming a triangle, would do for each plant.
The whole to be painted invisible green. After the
:plants are out of danger from pasturing animals,
the whole can be removed, and, if not wanted for
a like purpose, may be sold for old iron. No such
return could be made of wooden rails.

Of what has been said above, I would be un-
derstood as speaking of the front ground of 3.
Villa. The ground to be separated for the use of
the kitchen should :lie backwards, supposing the
aspect of the place to be towards the south, east,
or west, and lying on sloping ground. I Indeed,
generally Speaking, the kitchen ground should lie
to the north of the house, except where the site
is on the south bank of a river. In the former
case, the north fence may be raised for a fruit-
wall, and also part of the east and west fences, as
far as the breadth of the kitchen ground shall ex-
tend; leaving it um 'alled on the south, or the side
«towards the house, which should be fenced by a

8 FORMATION or VILLA GARDENS.
dwarf wall* andhedge, or a railing. Within this
fence, and between it and the ground allotted for
the use of the kitchen, should lie the shrubbry and
flowerground; which may or may not be sepa-
rated from the former, according to taste. If se-
parated, it should be by a hedge ot'hriar, roses, 0‘:
‘ ever-green privet; or by one consisting of a mix-
ture of all these. This kind of hedge should not
be clipped and dressed as a fence, but should be
considered merely as a. fringe ~to~the shrubbry, and
to marl; its extent.
\Vhen a Villa is situated on the south bank of
a river, it frequently happens, that the kitchen-
gi‘ound must lie between the house and the best
points of view from it. In this case, it should not
be walled in, but should be screened by shrubbry,
and fenced, as above stated: and neither‘the shrubs
nor fence should beellowed to rise high, that the
View may be as little obstructed as possible.
But the happiest situation for a Villa, may be
deemed that on the north bank of a river, or other

 

‘ Ev a dwarf” wail is here meant, one sunk two or three feet,

' l u . a y .

mad raised one; with a small easy sloping ditch m front. The:
. . . . ‘ _ . J

kind of fence is effectual against hares and rabbits, “him are

rt‘tnz‘. t:‘.":‘.:l‘l.’:-‘"‘1‘.". to the l'7fchen crops- :n winter.

maximum: or VILLA GARDENS. 9

considerable stream. ~If the property extend to '
the water’s edge, a walk, winding through groups
of shrubhry or under-wood, hung upon the banks,
would be delightful. _

If a rill pass through the grounds, by adorning
its sides with a few groups of shrubbry, and cono'
ducting a walk gracefully along‘the banks, it might
be made a source of much pleasure. If it be of any
considerable size, it requires no further trouble
than to dress its edges so far as to make it cor-
respond with the other parts of the ground; but
if it be small and trifling, its size may be increas-
ed by throwing a few dams or heads across it, at
proper places, concealing them, if possible, in un~
derwood or shrubbry.

To attempt any thing of the lake kind, in a
place of small dimensions, such as I am here treat-
'ing of, would be a species of Irick that could not
well be concealed, and certainly had better be let
alone. If a fish-pond be required, let it be con-
sidered merely as such, useful, not decorative;
and if there be a by-corner in which it can be
conveniently placed, so much the’better.

Par-terres of shrubs are frequently interspersed

in the grounds of at Villa, .in imitation of clumps

5.10 FORMATION or VILLA GARDENS.

and groves in a park. This is so farexcusable, if
the place be of any considerable extent, and if the
‘ surface be varied by knolls, easy slopes, 8:0. But
if the place be of small dimensions, flattish, and if
the whole can' be taken in by the eye at once, a
few droppingplanls, rising out of the turf, has a
better efi'ect. The parterre can only be admissi-
ble, in this latter case, immediately under the win-
dows, where every shrub and flower in it may be
distinctly seen. Green is “ the eye’s own co-
lour; ” and if the sward be broken by a number
ofparterres, which appear mere spots on the sur-
face, although the fancy may be amused by the
first glance, yet by a repetition, the eye will be-
come tired.

For the same reason, the surface should not be
cut up by a multitude of gravel walks, screwed
and twisted in all directions, as we too frequent-
ly notice. A walk skirting the boundary, in easy
sweeps, and crossing the lawn once, or at most
twice, to the house, will be found sufiicient. It
should not be too broad, especially in a small
spot; nor should it be too narrow, else it will
look like a rutt. From four to six feet is a pro-

pcr breadth, according to the size of the place, and

ronuuton on erLA GARDENS. 1!

"length of the walli’. A short walk, which the eye
takes in at once, should never be. broad.

The 'same may be said of the approach; nor
should it ever be screwed or twisted, but lead
gracefully, and pretty directly, from the gate to
the house.

The situation 'of the gate‘, which should he “plain
and neat, and in some measure should suit the
appearance of the house, must be regulated by the
position of the road or lane leading to the town.
If this road cross the end of the house, instead of
the front, the gate may, in that case, be most hap-
pily placed, and the approach will most sensibly
lead to the door. When a house is approached
by-a carriage, there is something awkward in be.
ing obliged to drive straight up to the door 5 be-
sides, the lawn, being divided by the approach di-
rectly in front, and in view of the public rooms,
has a bad effect. .

In order to remedy this, at least in a great mea-
sure, in cases where the approach must so divide
the lawn, from the absolute situation of the gate, it
should be made invisible,- that is to say,-it should
first be made of good materials, in order to be dur-

able, and should then be laid over with turf, taken

12 FORMATION OF VILLA GARDENS.

from 'a common or moor, which is of a tough, e-
lastic nature. Whenever it gets rutted by the
wheels of carriages, it should be repaired, either
with turf, or by putting sandy or gravelly earth in-
to the rutts, and dusting them full of grass-seeds.

In cases where carriages have seldom, though
sometimes occasion to come, the centre of the ap-.
proach, thus managed, might be kept clear as a.
walk of three, four, or five feet in breadth, accord-
ing to its length ; on which the horse or horses
might travel; and the carriage wheels would but
little mark or cut the sides.

In a Place, it ‘is often necessary, and always pro-
per when necessary, to "have an outlet to, or ap-
proach from, either hand; especially where the re-
sidence lies between towns, whence business may
lead either way, and a free communication with
the surrounding country is an object. This has
probably led to the idea of having a right and a.
left approach to many of our Villas,- which in
many instances, however, appear extremely ab-
surd. 'If the grounds about the Villa be of any
considerable exent; be diversified; and if the gates
can be concealed from each other, from the views
from the house, endear} be placed so as evidently

l

YORMATION 0‘!" VILLA GARDENS. ’ 13

to be serviceable ; then there is propriety in the
thing. But how often do we meet with two gates
standing like sentinels before the house, the one
perhaps never occupied, but merely placed there
to keep the other company ! One gate, properly
placed, would certainly be more sensible, and
seem less extravagant.

The kitchen-ground should be laid out in a
plain and neat manner. Generally, a walk should
be conducted round it, parallel to the wall, or o-
ther fence ; one down the middle, and perhaps an-
other crossing it, but seldom more. The breadth
of these, and also of the borders, should be pro-
portioned to the extent of the ground. In an
acre, the borders should not exceed fifteen feet,
nor the walk six. In half an acre, the borders
may be ten feet broad, and the walks four. * , The
height of the walls should be nearly in the same
proportion. A small spot, surrounded by high
walls, has a bad effect, and gloomy appearance.
The walls being of different heights, gives re-

 

” That is to say, the apparent breadth of the border should be
ten feet; but it should be made good under the walk also, which

in this case should only be a few inches thick of gravel. See
the next Section.

M FORMATION or VILLA GARDENS-

lief. In a garden of an acre, the north wall may:
be, at the most, fifteen feet high; the east and
west walls, afoot or two lower; and the south
wall, if there be one, a foot or two lower than
these. In a garden of half an acre, the highest
wall should not exceed twelve feet; the others in
proportion as above. Every fruit- wall should be
founded a yard, at the least, under the ground
level. Straight walls are to be preferred on all
occasions to curved or circular walls.

Espaliers, if well managed, are both ornamen-
tal and useful in the kitchen garden : affording a
deal of fruit, yet taking up little room. The rail-
ing ought to be plain and neat, four or five feet
high, and the upright spars, to which the trees are
trained, nine inches apart. The posts should be
set in blocks of stone, and run in with pitch ; or,
which is abetter way, set 01: blocks of stone, in an
iron hoze, batted into the stone. These blocks, in
either case, should be sunk under the surface.

The proper situation for an espalier rail is in the
border, [)5 the principal walks, and at three or four
feet distant from the walk. They may be placed
on each side of the cross walks, if the garden be
not very” small; but, in that case, they would

IOBMATION 0!‘ VILLA GARDENS. 15

both confine ‘and = overshadow the kitchen crops
too much. ,

Some think dwarf standards, or buzelats, have
a better effect: than espaliers. This is a mere mat-
ter of taste; but if equally well managed, they
are equally useful. They ought to be kept with-
in due bounds, and should not be suffered to rise
too high, nor spread too widely. Generally speak-
ing, the apples and pears for this purpose shqpld be
dwarfed ,- that is, the apples should be grafted on
paradise stocks, and the pears on quince stocks;
of which see further in Section III. I

The style of the shrubhry and flower ground
may be different ; it may be more gawdy ; it may
have more walks and alleys in it. But even these
must be proportioned in some measure to its ex-
tent; and the eye of taste will be better pleased
with too few than too many. The arrangement of
the shrubs depends very much on fancy; in some
parts they may be mixed; in others, grouped;
but generally, .there ought to be plenty of ever-
greens, that the whole may be the more cheerful,
in winter. Tall growing kinds should not be iné
troduced in a very small shrubbry; and in any,
the dwarf and more bushy-growing, should be

. 16 roamarron or 1111.“ cubism.

placed next to. the walks and. edges, in order to
cover the naked stems of the others.

In shrubbries of considerable extent, fruit trees
may be interspersed at fifteen or twenty yards dis-
tant; by which means a good deal of fruit may
be obtained, and very much beauty may be added
to the shrubbry. In spring, the blossoms of ap-
ples, cherries, and pears are beautiful: in autumn,
their fruits, and the foliage of cherries 1n particu-
lar, give a. lustre and variety that highly in ightens
the appearance of other plants, especially of ex cr-r
greens.

The laying out of flower-plats, or parterres, is
a matter very much of fancy; and a variety of.
forms may be indulged in, without incurring cen-
sure; provided the figures be graceful, and not in
any one place too complicated. Too many gra-
velled alleys offend the eye, as it comprehends the
whole spot at once. Some should be edged with-.-
box, some with daisies, others with violets. The
breadth of the alleys should be proportioned to.
that of the beds; nor should they be much sunk;
seldom more than an inch or two, otherwise they.
will look like furrows between them.

on sous AND masons. 17

SECTION II.

ON SOILS, AND THEIR IMPROVEMENT.

THE greater part of kitchen vegetables will thrive
in loan of a middling texture; that is, in earth
neither too stifi' nor too light, but rather inclining
to the latter. Some kinds, no doubt, delight in
clay, some in moss, and others in sand; and if
there be a variety of soils in the spot allotted for this
purpose, they should be kept as distinct as possi-
ble. If the whole be too stifl', it ought to be cor-
rected by the addition of sand , or sandy earth; and
if too light, by the addition of clay, or clayey earth.
Coal-ashes, pounded brick-bats, stone-chips,
lime-gravel, and the like, will be found good'for
. opening a clay; and it may be fertilized by the ap-
plication of lime, chalk, marl, stable-yard (lung, .
“sea-weed, soot, wood-ashes, street dung, 82c.
Light soilsmay be fertilized by cow or hog dun

B

g; --y

18 ON SOILS AND MARI-IRES.

or by a mixture of these with street or road scrap-
ings. For ground of a middling texture, a com-
post of cow-dung, stable—yard dung, and street.-
dung, will be feund a good’manure.

A moderate quantity of lime is advisable for
garden-ground, but it had better be compounded
with dung or earth, or with both. It is safer to
apply too little than too much, especially to light
land. Marl and chalk may be more freely ap-
plied, either simply or in compost.

Sea-weed is good for any soil, either as a sim-
ple, or in compost. Vegetable earth of decayed
tree leaves, is a species of manure the most grate-
ful- and nutritive of any, and may be freely applied
to any soil. So may the earth of decayed vegeta-
blesin general; or these earths may make part in
any compost, being eminently qualified for restor-
ing vigour; to plants of every description. Upon
the whole, compost manures are fittest for the
kitchen garden»

If the soil be not naturally dry, it must be ren-
dered so, by draining; otherwise little good may
be expected ofeither fruits or vegetables: it is the-
basis of improvement, in any soil, especially in:
those that may be termed still' or cold.

on :0th AND MANUims. 19

Generally, the soil of the kitchen garden should
be trenched to its full depth, if that were even a
yard; taking care, however, to turn up but little
of the subsoil, particularly if’it be of a cankering
qualit ’; for in many instances the soil of the gar-
den is, or has been very much injured, and render-
ed steril for years, by an injudicious admixture of
the subsoil with the surface earth.

Many vegetables will do very well in fifteen or
eighteen inches of soil; but wall-fruits will not
thrive long in a soil less than two feet deep 5 if a
yard, so much the better. Therefore, if the bor-
ders be not made from two to three feet deep, and
from twelve to fifteen feet broad, of good earth,
and be laid dry and comfortable, we need not look
for much success.

Apples, apricots, cherries, and figs, will do well
in such a soil as this: tln‘ee fourths light loam, or
sandy earth; and one- fourth strong loam, 0r clayey
earth. But peaches, pears, and plums, require a
stronger body ofsoil, in order to have them in per-
fection, viz. three- fourths strong loam, and one-
fourth light loam, or sandy earth. The depth for
the first class should be thirty inches, and for the

last, a yard on the average, at the least, if it be

20 on sous AND MANURES.

wished‘ to have them produce their fruits in high
perfection, and thrive for along series of years,

Generally speaking, the soil for fruit trees
should be moderately manured with the cooler
dungs ;~ such as that of cows or hogs; vegetable
earth, as above noticed; with the addition of a
'small proportion of lime, chalk, or marl. These,
with the compost, as specified above, should be
well incorporated, previous to planting.

If the subsoil be wet and cankering, let the fruit-
border be cleared out its whole length, to the depth
and breadth before mentioned. Lay the bottom in -
a sloping manner from the wall to the walk, giv-r
ing it a fall of six or eight inches. Run a drain a~
long by the conjunction of the border and walk,
a few inches lower than the bottom thus formed,
which shall be capable of completely draining off
both under and surface water. It may be a ruble
drain, or a box drain,- according to necessity.

Now, lay over the bottom, thus formed and.
smoothed, two inches‘of good earth; if loamy, so
much the better; which pulverize, and pass the
roller over; then an inch of clean pit or river gra-
‘vcl, which also pass the roller over; another inch of
earth as above, which also roll; and, lastly, an

on sorts AND mariners. 21

smell of gravel, also as above. This should be
done with the materials rather in a dry state; but
now moisten the whole moderately with a water-
ing-pot, and roll until the surface acquires a hard,
shining consistency. Keep rolling and watering
alternately, till the whole becomes firm, glazed,
and till the earth and gravel be intimately mixed
and incorporated.

Thus may a bed he formed for the roots offruit-
trees, much superior to one of stone or brick, and“
at an expense infinitely less; of a nature more
kindly, and which no root will penetrate. The
compdsbearth should now be thrown in, having
been previbusly laid up in a ridge along the outer
edge of the border, before the floor thus made get
damaged by wet or other accidents; and care must
be taken, that at no future period it be disturbed
in digging or trenching the border.

Shrubs, in general, thrive very well in ordinary
garden land, and better in light than in stfi~ soils.
In either case, if the ground be well trenched, to
the depth of a foot or eighteen inches, manure will
not be necessary; unless it he wished to rush tbem
up for any particular purpose, such as covering a
disagreeable object, or for shelter.

22 ON soms AND Manners.

Annual, perennial, and herbaceous flowers, will
also generally do well in ordinary garden soils.
For bulbous flowers, however, it is necessary to
be at some trouble, in order to have them in toler-
able perfection. It maybe said, in general, that
they thrive best in a rich sand, which, of course,
is never found in a natural state, poverty being its
characteristic. Pains must therefore be taken to
procure a proportion of sand, or of very sandy
earth, and to enrich it well with dungs, in order
to be successful. But the reader may see further
on this subject, by turning to the article Flowers,
in the Index of Work for October. Throughout.
the work also, notice is taken of the particular
soils for particular flowers; as auriculas, carna-
tions, See. I

On the culture of kitchen vegetables, in the
Index of Work, notice is taken of the particular
soils they respectively affect. The reader will
therefore consider the above hints as general.

' xmns or 1mm“; 23

ll

SECTION III.

02" THE KINDS OF WALL AND ESPALIER FRUITS FOR.
TOWN AND VILLA GARDENS, THE ASPECT THEY
SHOULD BE PLACED IN, AND THE DISTANCE AT
WHICH THEY SHOULD BE PLANTED.

A THIRST for variety, if I may so speak, has led
many into the error of having too many kinds of
these fruits: and this error is not confined to the
gardens of the great: it has also crept into those
of the citizen. In an extensive garden, part of the
wall may he sported for the chance of having, now
and then, (as it does happen), a crop of the finer
fruits. But in a small spot, where the wall is of
little extent, I conceive that a flaw proven kinds
which bear well in most seasons, is preferable to
many, of which a crop is obtained, perhaps only
once in seven years. *

 

' It may be remarked here, that the same observation holds
with respect to gooseberries, some of the catalogues of “hicll
contain, or pretend to contain, several hundreds, while, in fact,
there perhaps do not exixt fifty distinct sorts.

2

K!

4 ‘11an or mums:

The following lists exhibit an ample collection,
of which those marked thus "“ are, to be preferred.

NAMES.

Apples.
* Golden Pippin,

* Oslin Pippin,

*9 Ribst‘on Pippin,

* Golden Russet,

*9 Royal Russet,

* Nonpareil,

‘* Hawthorndean,

*‘ Yorkshire Greening,

Apricots.

"" More Park,
Orange,
Breda,

’7‘ Brussels,

Cherries.
*‘ May Duke,
5* Black Heart,
W'hite Heart,
'* Morella,

Figs.
1* Blue Ischia,
"1* White Ischia,

ASPECT.

South, S. E. or S. W.
East or West.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
South, S. E. or S. W.
East, West, or North.
Ditto.

South, S. E. or S. W.

Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.

All aspects.
South, East, West.
Ditto.

,Ea’st, West, North.

S. E. South, or S. W.
‘Ditto. ‘

xmns ox mums. 25

NAME.
Nectarines.
* Elruge,
"" Due de Tello,
Murray,
* Fairchild's Early,

Peaches.
"* Red Magdalen,
”“ Noblesse,
3“ Late Purple,
*Y‘ Admirable,

Pears.
* Jargonelie,
* Cressane,
* Colmar,
”‘ Burie de Roy,.
* Swan Egg,
* Autumn Bergamot,
* Achan,
* Yair,

a2 St Germains,‘

Plums.
*9 Green Gage,
3" Yellow Gage,
*3 Blue Gage,
* Fotheringham,
*3 La Royale,
*3: White Magnum Bonum,

ASPECT.

S. E. South, or S. W.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.

S. E. South, or S.W.

Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.

South, East, West.
S. E. South, or S. W.
Ditto.
South, East, West.
East or West,
Ditto.
Ditto.
~ Ditto.
Ditto.

S. E. South, or S. W'.
Ditto.
East or W'est.
Ditto. -
South, East, or W'est
East or West.

26 nuns or rnnrrs.

It might have been expected by some, that I
should here have added a list of Vines. To be
brief, I do not consider the culture of grapes on
open walls in any part of our island, a matter
worth the pursuit of any one; as it is not one
season in seven, or perhaps in ten, they ripen fully.
The walls are therefore better occupied by some
of the foregoing fruits, that have a chance of re-
paying the trouble bestowed on them. T 011 pounds
worth of peaches, or of pears, may be annually
produced on a space of wall that perhaps would
not return five shillings worth of grapes in as ma-
ny years; and these, when had, very likely not
worth eating. Of course, it is more satisfactory
to purchase grapes properly matured in a hot-
house, and that at a certain saving, if not provid-
ed with a vinery for their C1ilt11‘e.”‘=

The following are kinds for esnaliers, dwarf
standards, or buzela1s, and these, particularly for

 

" Since writing the above, I have perused Mr Knight’s com-
munications to the London Horticultural Society, on the me-
thods of producing new and early fruits, which are certainly
very intrenious. Mr K. expresses his confidence, that, by pur-
suing his, or similzn methods, kinds of grapes may be obtained,
pcrtcctly capable of enduring the climate ot England, and 01
being fully ripened, when trained to a south “all.

xmns or news. 27

Small gardens, ought to be grafted, viz. the ap-

ples on paradise stocks, and the pears on quince
stocks.

1:
=1

Apples.
Royal Codling.
Kentish ditto.
Carlisle ditto.
Grey Leadington.
Royal Pearmain.
Ribston Pippin.
Gogar Pippin.
Oslin Pippin.
Golden“ Rennet.
Royal Russet.

Cherries.
hIay Duke.
Holman’s Duke.
Black Heart.
White Heart.
Morella.
Kentish.

Pears.

* Jargonelle.
Gansell’s Bergamoto

”’1‘ Grey Achan.

4" Swan Egg.

* Moorfowl Ego.

* Yair.

* Carnock.
Warden.

\/ Scots Bergamot.
Longueville.

Plums.
* Green Gage.
Orleans.
* Fotheringham.
* White Magnum Bonnm.
Blue Perdi‘igon.
* Bullace.

I shall give a short description of the kinds here
enumerated, beginning with those for the walls,

and taking them as they stand in the lists.

1.

Golden Pippin.—This apple is universally

known, and generally esteemed the king of pippins.

28 xiNDs or FRUITS.

It is a good keeper, when fully ripened, and aa-
mong the best of our table fruits. It is small,
rather long than round, and very beautiful. The
tree grows freely in good lightish soil; but in stiff
or wet land it languishes. *

2. Oslz'n Pippin ; by some, Original Pippin,- and
by others, Arbroat/z Pzppin.—This is an excellent
apple. As to flavour, it is outdone by none but
the nonpareil, over which it has this advantage,
that it will ripen~ both in a worse climate and a

» worse aspect. It is larger than the golden pip-

pin, and more round; earlier, but not so good a
keeper. The tree grows freely in even tolerably
good soil, and is a good bearer.

3. Ribston Pippin.—-This may be called a uni-
versal apple for these kingdoms. It will thrive,
and even ripen at J ohn-o’- Groats, while it deserves

 

" We learn by Mr Knight’s Treatise on the Apple, that
this kind in particular, and several others, are going fast to de-
cay in the Herefordshire orchards; and that durable trees can-
not be procured- from old ones by grafting; with many other
curious facts concerning the Apple and the Pear. We have an
Apple in Scotland, called the Balgon Pippin, which inherits e-
very virtue and property of the Golden Pippin, grows larger,
and the tree is more healthy and luxuriant. It probably has
been brought from England, when the trees he mentions were
iii their middle age.

itnms or ram-rs. - 29

a place at Exeter, or at. Cork. It is much larger
than any of the preceding fruits; greenish-yel-
low, with-red or brown streaks next the sun; and
to them, inferior in flavour. It is not so early as
the oslin, but a better keeper; as it will keep till
apples come again, quite good. If well ripened,
it is very fit for the table ; for the kitchen, it is un-
rivalled. The tree is a free grovver in almost any
situation, if the soil be tolerably good, and is‘as
mong the best bearers. '

4. Golden Russet—Avery good, handsome ap-
ple, of a middle size, and well flavoured, as are
all the russets. T he tree, if well managed, is a,
free grower, and tolerably good bearer.

5. Riyal Russet or Leathercoat.—Much the
53 me as the former;.larger, but not so handsome;
a better bearer and keeper.

6. Nonparez’l.—-This is chief of the russets, and.
indeed, in respectof flavour, when well ripened,
(thief of the apple kind. It is, smaller than either
of the two last named, and more greenish. It
can hardly be matured in Scotland, without the
' aid of a wall, and south aspect: When fully
ripened, it is an excellent keeper. In a good soil
and situation, it may rather be termed a great

30 KINDS or FRUITS.

bearer. It likes a sound, hale earth, or what is
called a hazely loam ; and very well deserves our"
best attention.

7 . Huwtlzorndmn.-—By some, the White Apple,-
or, the White Apple (f [-Iawz‘lzorndean.-—It is said
to have been introduced by the celebrated Drum-
mond of Hawthorndean, and takes the name of
that very romantic retreat, on the river Esk, near
Roslin, in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh. It
is an excellent early apple, large and beautiful;
and is a great acquisition to the market-gardeners
and fruit-growers of Scotland. It is a hardy, free
grower; begins to produce the second year after
planting, and bears most plentifully. \Vere it a.
good keeper, it might be termed the best kitchen
apple we have. It thrives in any situation, and
will do better in a north aspect than any other
apple at present known.

8. Yorkshire Greening—Inferior to the last-
named in many respects, though a better keeper.
Yet it is a good, middle-sized fruit, and bears
well. Its name denotes its colour. It is a baking
apple.

9. Royal Codlz'ng—A good kitchen apple, large,
time grower, and good bearer.

xmns or mum. 31

10. Kentislz Coming—Equally good.

11. Carlisle (balling—Better than either. Har-
dy, free growing, and a‘ great bearer. None of
the codlings are keepers.

1‘2. Greg Leallz'ngt‘on.—This is a good apple,
and the best of‘the Leadington kind, though the
smallest. It is a free grower, a great bearer, and
a good keeper.

13. Royal Pcarmaz'n.—-The pearmains are all
good late apples, and tolerably good bearers, of
which this is the best. It is large and beautiful.

1+. Gogar 1’1'1)pi71.—A very good, middle sized
fruit; hardy, free~growing tree; a good bearer,
and very late keeper. Fit for the table when well
ripened. It takes its name from Gogar, an an-
cient seat near Edinburgh.

15. Golden Renhet. -—-A pretty summer apple,
of a middle-size- ; a tree growel, good b but
not a good keeper. W

' :( til i “7}"
APRICOTS. (31“. V 1 ;/
. More Park—This is a large, handsome a~
pricot, and when well ripened on a south wall,
is thought by many the richest of the stone fruit
kinds. Unless it be planted in very good soil, the

32 ' xmns or FRUITS.

tree does not grow so freely, nor does it hear so ‘
plentifully as some of 'the other sorts; but then,
one fruit of it is worth three of any other apricot.
It is sometimes called the Peach Apricot.

2. Orange.—-Pretty large, and beautiful; but
not near so “high flavoured as the preceding; ex-
cellent for preserving; a free growing tree, and a
good bearer. ,

3. Breda.—Better than the last-named, inso—
much- that it is generally a more plentiful bearer;
larger, and more juicy.

4-. Brussels.———The fruit is middle-sized; red
next‘ the sun, and greenish-yellow on the other
side; juicy, and high flavoured. The tree is _
more hardy than .any of the preceding, and. is a
good bearer. ‘
cummmsr

1. May Dalia—We have no lcherry equal to »
this. It thrives in all soils, climates, and situa-
tions, and, even in a north aspect, becomes fit for
the table. When well ripened on a good wall,
and southern aspect, it is delicious.

2. Black Heart.—A good cherry, larger than

.xmns or moi-rs. 33

the May Duke, but with less flavour, except in
the full sun, and not so good a bearer.

3. W Izite Heart—Much the same as the pre-
ceding; pale coloured, and» a more shy. bearer.
Both these Hearts require a wall in Scotland, in
order to have them in perfection. _

4. Jllorella.,—-—'l‘his is an excellent fruit, and,
next to the Mziy Duke, is the best cherry we have.
“‘hen ripened on 'a wall, in the full sun, it ac-
quires a size and richness of flavour, superior to
any other. This is a fact not generally known.
Being a free grower, and good bearer, in any si-
tuation, the worst is generally allotted to it.

5. l-lolmun’s Duke—Just the May Duke, said
to be improved. I have sometimes known it grow
to every large size, and almost black, when in
the full sun; but have often seen the same thing
happen with the May Duke, in good soil, and in
a good season.

6. fi'nrz‘slt.—-Fit only for tarts ; a great bearer, -
and planted very frequently in orchards. It is-
sometimes called the [fed Morella.

34* new or mums.

FIGS.

1; Blue Iscizz'a—Perhaps the best bearer of’the
fig kind, and that which does best in the open air
of this country. It has another advantage, that
of not growing too rank of young shoots, which
some of the other kinds do. This is sometimes
called the Black Isclzz'a, which may depend on the
colour of the soil in which it grows. The fruit is
of a moderate size; dark purple, or nearly black
when fully ripened, and deep red‘ inside; high
flavoured.

2. W/zz'te Itcfiia ,- or, Brown Isclzz'a.—-—The same
as the former, except as to colour; which is pale
or more russet, according to that of the soil in

which it may be planted, and red inside. They
both. like a rich sandy loam, but will do pretty
well in worse soils, if rendered dry.

NECTARINES.

I. EIruget—This is decidedly the best necta-
riue we have for the open air. The fruit is large
and handsome; and when well ripened, attains
to a dark-red colour next the sun. The tree is a
free grower, even in a middling soil.

11an or nuns. 33

9. Fairchild’s early Nectarine —This is among
the earliest nectarines we have. The tree is hardy,
and a good bearer. The fruit is small, round,
red, and high-flavoured when well ripened.

3. bluntly—A very good, middle sized fruit;
red towards the sun, and greenish next the wall.
The tree is a free grower, and pretty good bearer.

4. Due de Talia—This is an excellent, large,
highflavonred fruit, when well- ripened ; but it.
requires the full south sun, and a good climate.
It is a dark red, or purple, next the sun, and a.
pale red or yellow on the under side, according to
the colour of the soilin which it grows. * The
tree grows freely, and is a good bearer.

All these nectarines are jive- stones. The cling‘ .

 

' It is a fact known to most gardeners of observation, that
the colour, and also the quality of soils, have an effect on the
colour and flavour of fruits,—even on the colour of many
flowers. The effect of the colour of soils, on that of fruits, is
most perceptible on the delicate kinds, such as Grapes, Peaches,
fire; but to a nice observer, it extends, in a greater or- less de-
gree, to all fruits. For instance, if two black Hamburgh grapes,
made from cuttings of the same plant, shall be planted, the one
in a dry hazely loam, and the other in a moist black earth, the
fruit of the one will be brown, or of a: grizzly colour, and of the
other, very dark red, or black; and the grape will be more-
juicy, though flatter in flavour, than the other grown in a. drier
soil. '

r

56 KINDS OF mums.

stones are not fit for culture in these kingdoms, at
least in the open air, for want of climate.

'PEACHEs.

1. Red Magdalen—This is a beautiful, middle-4
sized fruit, of a dark red colour next the sun. Its
flavour is equalled by none of the peach kind.
The tree is a free grower, and a great bearer; and
is, upon the whole, the best peach we have, either
for the open air, or' the hot-house.

2. Noblesse.—An excellent peach; larger than
the above, and not so high- coloured. More juicy,
but not so high-flavoured. Also a free grower,
and a good bearer.

3. iate Pimple—This is an excellent, large
peach, of a very dark red, or purple next the sun,
juicy, and high-flavoured. In indifferent situa-
tions, however, and in cold soils, it sometimes does
'not ripen perfectly. The tree is‘a free grower,
and a good bearer.

4. Admirable. —A handsome, large fruit, but
more delicate than the Red Magdalen , nor is it
so good a bearer, or so high-flavoured.

The above peaches are all flee-stones. It is said,
that in America they give their flee-stone peaches

KINDS or mum‘s. , 3‘?‘

to the pigs, on account of their mealiness; being,
as it were over-ripened, and not worth eating;
and that they only use the cling-stone kinds Now,
we have not climate sufficient to make these cat-

able in tolerable perfection.

FEARS.

1. Jargonrllc.—This pear is universally known
and admired in this country, and deservedly so.
It is by much the best summer pear we have, and
of these the only one worthyiof a wall. The fruit
is long and large; greenish, with russet or brown
streaks on the side next the sun. When well ri—
pened, it is high-flavoured and very juicy. The
tree grows freely in ordinary garden soils, and .
will thrive and bear better in light land than most
other sorts. .

2. Cressane.——This is an excellent fruit, and
esteemed the best of the bergamots. It is very
high-flavoured, when fully ripened; of a round-
ish moderate size, and greyish colour, and full of
small brown specks. Of the bergamots, it is the
best keeper, though none of them keep long. In
order to have it in perfection, it requires a good

wall, the full sun, and a good loamy soil.

$8 - xmns or FRUITS.

3. Colman—This is a long, large fruit, of a
rich flavour, when fully matured; but for that
purpose it requires the very best soils and situa- '
tions, particularly in the northern parts of Bri-
tain ; and it is even but in the best of seasons that
it attains to perfection. Its colour is then a green-
ish yellow. Generally speaking, it cannot be call-
ed a great bearer, but it is a good keeper.

4. Burie de Roy; Brown Burie; or, lied Burt's;
-——which denominations depend on the colour of
the soil in which the tree may grow. It is an ex-
cellent fruit; high-flavoured, large, and rather
longish than round. The tree is a pretty free
grower, but requires both a good soil and climate,
and likewise a good VV all.

5. Swan Egg. —A good fruit, and, in tolerably
good soil, at great bearer. It IS a late pear, and a.
pretty rood keeper. Egg-shaped, and greenish.

6. Autumn BEIgamot.-—A very good, higlrfla—
voured, middle‘sized pear; a free grower, and
great bearer.

7. Adam; Grey Achan; or, Red Achan:—it is
the same thinO'. There is also 'a kind called the
Black, or Winter Aclzan, esteemed excellent, though
somewhat smaller. Indeed, this may rather be

runs or mums. 39

termed a winter pear, on account of its keeping
well, and its lateness in ripening. It is middle-
sized, of 'a sweetish, and rather particular flavour.
The tree is a free grower, even in light soil, and
a very plentiful bearer. There is a kind called the
Summer Aclum, a trifling, greenish fruit, not worth
planting. '

8. Yaz'r; or Green Pear qfthe Harp—Said to he
indigenous at that beautiful seat on the Tweed,
about thirty miles from Edinburgh. It is green,
smallish, sweet, and juicy: Early, and does not
keep many days. It should be eaten off the tree.
A free grower, and very great bearer. ‘

9. St Germain’s.—An excellent pear. large and
long, of a russet-green colour, and high flavour.
A middling good bearer, and a good keeper. It
requires a good soil and climate.

10. Ganscll’s Bergamot.—Difi'ering little from
the autumn bergamot; but said to he the some
thing, improved by culture. It is an excellent
pear, when well ripened.

ll. Ahoy/owl Egg—A good, high-flavoured,
rather large pear; and a very good bearer. It is
said to be originally Scotch. It is somewhat egg-
shaped. A good standard fruit tree.

12. Carmel: ; or Drummond.——A very good,

4-0 KINDS or FRUITS.

high-flavoured pear, when well ripened, but not
very juicy ; brownish, longish, and rather small;
and will keep a few weeks. It is a common
standard pear in the Clydesdale orchards, and is a
great bearer. It- should be eaten before it gets
'mealy. '

13. lVarden.—There are several sorts of war-
dens, of which Parkinson’s is the best. They are
late winter pears, good bearers and keepers, but
only fit for baking.

14'. Scots ficrgamct.—This is a very good, large
pear; a great bearer; and very proper for a
standard.

15. L0’7:gucrille.——This is a longer, and, upon
the whole, a. better fruit than the one last named,
insomuch that it keeps better; but it is not so
good a bearer.

PLUMS.

1. Green Gaga—The best, the most generally
known, and most highly esteemed of the plum
kind. , It is round, small, and greenish, but when
highly ripened on a wall, becomes brownish next
the sun lt is a good bearer when well managed,

.and requires both a good soil and climate. In

0

xmns or FRUITS. 41

Scotland, it requires the aid of a wall in the full
sun, in order to have it in perfection.

2. Yellow Gage.—_—Very much the same as the
preceding, only of a lighter, or more yellow co-
lour, and russet towards the sun. I have only
known two trees ofit in Scotland, in a full hear-
ing state; the one on a south. and the other on
a south-west wall; which uniformly produced
large crops of fruit, in high perfection. They
were not in the same garden, though in the same
county, (Fife); and-both grew in strong soil ; the
one a rider, and the other a dwarf tree.

3. Blue Gage—Inferior to either of the above,
in every respect, yet a good plum, and a good
bearer.

4-. fht/zeringlzam.—This is a beautiful fruit, red,
large, and rather longish. It is very high—flavour-
ed, a good bearer, and hardly inferior to any
plum we have.

5. La [fogala—This is an excellent, highfla-
voured fruit; round, dark— red, and pretty large.
It deserves a good soil, 3. good climate, and a good
wall. It is not, however, a very great bearer.

6. H 71ife Magnum 150num.——Egg-sized, and egg-
shaped; the largest plum we have, and by no

42‘ nuns or mum.

means the worst. When well ripened, on a good
wall, it is absolutely a rich fruit. Being a free
grower and good bearer, like the morella cherry,
it is thrust into the worst soils and situations, of-
ten very undeservedly. It cuts a good figure in
a well set out dessert, and makes an excellent pre-
serve.

7. Orleans—A pretty good, middle-sized, red-
ish plum _; a free grower, and a great bearer.

8. Blue Perdrigon.—A very good, middle-sized,
high-flavoured fruit; but not a very good bearer,
unless it grow in a loamy soil.

9. Ballast—Of this there are two sorts, the
white and the black; the latter is most esteemed.
It is a good orchard plum, very fit for baking, and
a great bearer.

The following are the distances at which the
different kinds of fruit—trees may be planted on .
garden-walls; taking the medium height at twelve
feet, and varying the distance accordingly; that

is, for a low wall, the more distant; and for a
high wall, the less :—

Apples, eighteen or twenty feet ; apricots,
twenty to twenty-four ; figs, fifteen or eighteen ;
cherries, twelve orfit‘teen; nectarines and peaches,

xmns or nuns. 4-3

twelve or fifteen; pears, twenty» four to thirty;
andplums, eighteen or twenty feet.

For espaliers, or low walls of five or six feet:—
Apples, thirty;~ cherries, twenty ; pears, thirty to
thirty five; and plums, twenty to twenty-four feet.

On walls, ten feet in height, or upwards, riders
should be planted between the dwarf or principal
trees, in order the sooner to furnish the wall; but
for low walls it is not worth the while, as goose-
berries, currants, or raspberries, answer better,
and produce fruit more immediately. Riders of
all or most of the kinds in the foregoing lists can
be had in the nurseries; but they should consist
chiefly of apricots, cherries, nectarines, peaches,
and plums; as few kinds of apples or pears would
begin to produce crops, before it would be necest
sary to root them out, in order to give place to the
dwarfs.

Buzelars, or little standards, that are substituted
for Espaliers, may be planted at any distance frOm

fifteen to thirty feet, according to the size to which} _

they are to be allowed to grow.

Currants and Goosebcrries are often planted in
lines, by the sides of the walks or alleys of the
garden ; but in that way, if not well managed,

M .mes or rnmrs.

they are generally more cumbersome than useful.
It is a better method to have them in quarters by
themselves, and to make new plantations every
sixth or seventh year; as young plants are found
to produce more handsome fruit, and also more
plentif'ully than’old ones. The same thing may
be said of Raspberries. It is proper, also, to have
a few of these, and likewise of currants and goose-
- berries, upon a north border, or other shaded
A place, in order to prolong the season of them.

From four to six feet square, according to the
quality of the soil, may be deemed a proper dis-
tance for the above fruits; that is, in good land,
six feet; in middling land, five; and in poor land,
four. They may also very properly be planted a-
gainst vacant places, on any of the walls. Cur-
rants and Gooseberriesin general, and the Antwerp
Raspberry in particular, are highly improved by
the benefit of a wall and southern aspect.

I have already said, that the kinds of Goose-
berries are too numerous, and indistinct. Indeed
I do not know above eighteen diti'erent sorts worth
cultivating, viz. green gascoigne; green walnut 5
red walnut ; crystal; ironmonger ; amber ; sul-

phur; champaigne; captain; nutmeg; rough red;

KINDS or mum. 45

Smooth red ; royal George; honeycomb; drap d’or;
Orleans; golden knap; conqueror.

All the kinds of Currants are good, viz. red,
white, grizzly, and black. So are all these kinds
of Raspberries, viz. common red; common white;
white Antwerp ; red Antwerp ; the cane; and
twice bearing. .

The kinds of Strawberries to be recommended
here, are the Virginia or Scarlet; the Chili, (very
large); the hautboy; the white wood; the Bath;
and the alpine; preferring the four first named.
These are often planted in beds; but a better
method is to plant them in rows, about two feet
asunder, and fifteen or eighteen inches in the row;
or, in single rows, as edgings to the alleys of the

‘ kitchen ground.

 

xxnos or trans AND smwns. 47

ll

SECTION IV.

ON THE KINDS OF TREES AND SIIRUBS FIT F08
VILLA GROUNDS AND GARDENS.

IT is no uncommon thing to find in the grounds
of many of our Villas, tI‘CES, in particular, and of-
ten shrubs, ill adapted to their situations. The ‘.
trees of 3. Villa ought to differ from the trees of a

’L’acc: They ought to be more subordinate; and
that, too, in proportion to its extent or magni-
tude. '

\Ve expect to see a mansion, or a castle, sur-
rounded by majestic oaks, tall beeches, stately sy-
camores, or spreading elms; which, on account
of the extent of the place, have ample room, and
can be set ofi‘ to advantage. But if a small house,
whose acres are but few, be thus surrounded, it
will be sunk to nothing, and be lost. The kinds,

therefore, proper for the grounds of a Villa,’ and.

4‘8 KINDS or TREES AND smwns.

. which should chiefly prevail, are low-growing
trees, and tall growing shrubs. These, in gene-
ral, are decorative, and afford abundant variety.

I shall here enumerate a few of the most parti-
cular kinds, with some remarks on them. Those
‘ who wish more ample lists, will find them in the

catalogtles to be had at all the public nurseries.

, 'l. Deciduous Low-growing Trees.

Acacia, the two thorned, orfalse. Poplar the balsam.

Apples in variety.

Alder, the cut-leaved.

Aria ’l‘heophrasti.

Beech, the purple.

Birch, the weeping.
Bird-chewy.

Crab, the common.

Cherry, the double-flowering.
the wild, or gean.

the Mayduke. ‘
.—‘-— the Morella.

the Kentish.

Elm, the variegated.
Horse-chesnut, the variegated.
Laburnum.

Lime, the American.

Maples in variety.

Oak, Spanish, or rnossy-cup’d.
-—— Lucombe.

Pears in variety.

 

 

,___—

 

Carolina.

the Lombardy.
Plantanus, the oriental.

the occidental.
the Spanish.
Service, the broad-leaved.
narrow— leaved.
Sorb, or mountain-ash.
Spanisli-chesnut, the striped.
Sycamore, the variegated.

T horn, the double-flowerinv.
the scarlet.

the common.
Tulip-tree.

Walnut, the common.

- Virginian.

\Villow, the pear-leaved.
IIuntingdon.‘

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

sweet- scented.
the weeping.

nuns qr TREES AND SHRUBS.

2. Deoiduous tall-growing Shrubs.

Almond, the double-flowering.
Crab, the Siberian.

Cockspur thorn.

Elder, the variegated.

— the comrueu.
Glastonbury thorn.
Gelder-rose.

Hazel, the common.

filberd.

 

 

Hornbeam, the hop.
Lilac, the purple.

—— the white.

Medlar.

Quince.

Robinia, or rose acacia.
Spindle-tree.

Syringa, or mock orange.
Viburnum. '

3. Evergreen low-grouing Trees, and tall-

growmg Shrubs.

Alaternus, the common.
gold-Notched,
silver blotched.
Arbor vitaa, the Chinese.
— the common.

 

 

 

Arbutus, or strawberry~tree.
Box~tree, the common.

the variegated.
Cedar, the red.
of Lebanon.
Cypress, the upright.

 

{loll} , comm‘on green.

Holly, variegated, runny kinds.
Juniper, the common.

. Swedish. _'
Laurel, the l‘orxugal.
broad- leaved.

 

Lam'ustinus.

Oak, the evergreen.
Phillyrea, broad-leaved.
- Ilal‘rm‘.‘~lca\'ed.

 

 

\ Privet, the evergreen.

Spnrge laurel.
Yew.

It is a difficult, and often a thankless task, to
dictate in matters of taste; and it may be thought”

.50 KINDS or TREES AND srrnvns.

presumptuous in me to say, that the above plants
should be arranged thus and thus. I may be al-
lowed to remark, however, that generally, in our
plantations and shrubbries, the method of mixing
all kinds indiscriminately prevails too much.
Certainly, in a great place, more character and
distinctness may be given by grouping or massing
its woods and plantations, than by a mixture of
tall, broad and low plants, of green, yellow, and
blue colours, crowded together. Even in a place
ofmiddling dimensions, grouping, or properly as-
sorting the different kinds, is to be commended, as
capable of affording more variety, and a better ef-
fect. But in a. very small spot, which the eye can
take in at a glance, this cannot so well be practi-
sed ; for although six of one species, nine of ano-
ther, and twelve of a third, were placed together,
they would in a great measure appear as one tree,
on account of the smallness of the group or patch.
A mixture of many kinds, therefore, in a very
small place, is perhaps as good as any other me-
thod ; and the less precise or studied, the better,
Generally speaking, about the grounds of a Vil-
la, evergreens should prevail, as tending to render-
it more cheerful in winter. It has been remarked,

xmns or mess AND SHRUBS. 5-1

that all the world is a garden in summer, and that
we ought to study to render our gardens, especi-
ally those about a house constantly inhabited, per—
petually green, that. they may always please.

It would be too much to insinuate, however,
that, in order to obtain this point, we ought to
plant nothing but greens. Nothing but greens
would be as tiresome and dull, as no greens at all.-
In spring, the eye is relieved and delighted by the
gradations of vegetation; the expansion of leaves,
and the opening of flowers; and in autumn, by
the various huesand tints, displayed by a varied
foliage.

The foregoing‘remarks respect plants for Shel-v
tering, decorating, and, as it were, giving figure
to the grounds of 3 Villa. , \Vith respect to the
lower shrubbries, I have already spoken to their si—
tuations; and as their particular arrangement ca
have but little effect on the character of the place,
I shall leave that matter, as also the choice of the
shrubs, to the taste of those more immediately con-
cerned; being unwilling to swell this little volume.
I will, however, add, that it is a mistake to plant
too thickly. The plants should at all times stand,
as it were, distinct, from one another, that they

5‘2 KINDS or TREES AND snnvns.

may be the better shown off. The small-grows-
ing kinds may be planted at four or five feet apart 2

‘the large, at six or eight, according to the quality
of the soil. '

MONTHLY

iNDEX OF WORK.

 

 

INDEX OF WORK.

 

JANUARY.

 

CULINARY VEGETABLES.

BEANS may be sown on an early border, or
other warm spot, about the middle or latter end
of the month. The Early lVIazagan, or Lisbon,
are fittest. Sow in drills three inches deep, and
eighteen or twenty inches apart; dropping them
in with the hand, three inches asunder. If the
ground he tolerably good, it need not be manured
for this crop. Beans do best, as a full crop, in
strong land, but will be considerably earlier in
lightish soil. Be careful to entrap mice, if the
rows of beans or peas be attacked by them at this
season.

Garlic/c may now be planted. The/same kind
of culture will answer as for shallots, (noticed

56 a — Inna}: or WOlil’C.‘ [mm

below), only allowing; an im-h or two more of
room, and dividing the heads into cloves. It will

‘ thrive in any kind of gardcnland. Plant Iiucam-
- {Jule in like manner. ' ‘

Onions—In order to obtain a good crop of
onions, itis proper to sow at dill'erent seasons,
viz. in light. soils, in August, Januar , or early in
February; and in heavy wet soils, in March, or .
early in April ;—of which? see further in these
\months. Onions should not be sown, however,
in this month, unless the ground he in a dry state,
which is not often the case at so early a period of
the season; but, if so, advantage should be taken
of it. For full directions on this subject, see next
month.

1’ rsley may be sown about the latter end of
the month, either in a bed, or in rows; or as an
edging to an alley or walk. It Will do in almost
any soil or situation. If sown in a bed, cover to
,the depth of a quarter of an inch ; and if in drills,
let these be half an inch deep, and ten or twelve
inches asunder. There are two kinds; curled, and
plain. ‘

Ifambm‘gh Parsley,—-—the roots of which are used '
in soups, may be sown in drills a foot apart, about

man] CULINARY VEGETABLES. . 57

the latter end of the month. The ground for it
should be deeply dug.

If the old parsley be not yet covered, let that
be done without delay—See November.

Peas may also now be sown on an early border,
or other warm situation, if the weather be open'
and the ground be pretty dry. The Early Frame,
or Charlton, are most proper for this sowing.
They may be sown in a row, by the bottom of a
wall or hedge; or in longitudinal rows, at three
feet apart,‘on an early border. If sown across a.
quarter, the drills should be about three, or three
and a half feet apart, according to the quality ofthe
soil; and two, or at most three inches deep. Do
not sow too thickly. Cover with the hoe or rake,
but do not tread them in, as it binds the ground
too much at this early season. If the ground he
in good heart, it need not be (lunged.

Peas are both rendered more prolific, and more
early, by being transplanted. So if it be wished to
have a few the earliest out of doors, some might be
sown as directed for French beans in April, (which,
see), and when an inch, or an inch and a half high,
might be planted out in arow, at two‘inches a-
part, at the bottom of a wall, pale, or hedge, in

58 INDEX or wonx. DAN.

light rich soil, and a south aspect. The true
Early Frame are the fittest for this purpose.

Shallot.-—About the middle or latter end of the
month, is a good time to plant shallots. They
require good rich soil, and a free exposure; but it
is better that the ground have been dunged for
the preceding crop, as they are apt to canker and
become infested with maggots, if planted in fresh
dung. They may be planted in beds, at the dis-
tance of six or eight inches; or, which is a better
way, in rows, ten or twelve inches asunder, and
three or four in the row. In light land, they may
be planted with the dibble or setting-stick; but in
stifi' soil, it is better to place them in drills. In
either case, let the crowns of the/sets be covered
about two inches, and dress OFF the ground neatly.

Spinage.——Sow round spinage about the latter
end of the month, on a rich warm spot, to come
in as an early spring crop, and to succeed the win-
ter crops. It is best to sow in shallow drills, ten
or twelve inches apart, and not too thickly. Some
sow in beds, but it is more troublesome to keep
clean, than when sown in drills. Cover with the
rake, and dress the ground handsomely.

mm] SALLADS. 59

SALLADS.

Lettuce may be sown by the middle, or towards
the end of the month, if the weather be mild and
dry. An early warm spot is to be chosen, and a
rich light soil. The kinds fittest for this sowing
are the brown Dutch, hardy green, white coss,
and green coss. Sow rather thickly, in order to
afford plants for transplanting in March. Cover
lightly, and rake all in smooth and neatly. Do
not tread or beat in the seeds.

Radz'slz.—Sliort-top and Salmon Radish may
be sown at the beginning, and also these, and the
red and white turnip-rooted kinds at the end of
the month. Any dry, lightish, and tolerably
warm situation will answer. They may either be
sown by themselves, thickly ; or among lettuce,
onions, or spinage, thinly.

Small Salladz'ng, as cresses, mustard, chervil,
&c. may be sown about the middle or latter end
of the month, at the bottom of a wall, pale, or a.
hedge, in a south exposure. If sown so asto be
covered with a few hand or bell glasses, the suc-
cess would be the greater. Sow thickly, and
cover with fine earth to the depth of half an '

‘

60 INDEX or woxx. [mm .

inch; giving a little water, if the earth be in a
dry state.

. WALL AND ESPALIER FRUITS.
0f Planting Fruit Trees.

This is a good season for planting all kinds of
fruit trees, if the weather be not frosty; but the
latter end of the month is generally to be prefer-
red to the beginning, unless the soil be very light.
The plants should be kept as short time out of the

.ground, and their roots should be as little ex-

posed to the air as possible. For this purpose, the
borders ought to be prepared, and the holes or
pits should be made ready for their reception,
previous to their being lifted, or taken from the
sougiz. The ground should be well prepared by
trenching, Ste. (see the Section on Soils), and
should be moderately manured ; or at least a. pro-
per quantity of well-rotted dung, or compost,
ought to be put into each hole; and the roots
should be carefully spread out, and be covered
with fine earth. Be careful not to plant too deep;
and in no case bury the bud or graft. The tree
should be placed just as deep as it *as when
standing in the nursery.

nun] WALL AND ESPALIER mum's. 61

In general, maiden trees are to be preferred,
especially of Apples and Pears, though one year
trained of these, and one, or even two year train.
ed of the stone fruits, will succeed very well.

After planting, the tree should be tackedcare-
fully to the wall or espalier, to prevent it from be-
ing beat by the wind, and from having its bark
rufiied or bruised; and if it be a standard, it should
be staked ; as nothing is more prejudicial to a new
pl anted tree, than wind-waving. Some [lead down
their t1 ees at planting, whatever time that may
happen to be done; but the fittest time is the lat- (
tor end of March, or first of April; which see,
for directions respecting that operation.

The respective situations, and distances for wall
fruits, have been fully treated of in the third Sec-
tion: I shall therefore pass to the subject of Prun-
ing, a very fit operation at this time.

Qf Pruning Fruit T recs.

Apples and Pears.-—-These being similar in their.
manner of bearing, that is, producing their fruit
on short stubs or spurs, which issue chiefly from
the sides, though sometimes from the ends of the
branches, one mode of treatment in respect to,

6? INDEX or wonm LIAN.

pruning and training, will answer for both. On
walls of‘ more than six feet in height, fan training
is to be preferred to horizontal training ,- that is,
spreading the branches out like a fan, or like the
hand fully extended, instead of carrying a princi-
pal stem upright, and laying the branches from it,
in a horizontal direction on either side. My rea-
son for giving this preference is, that, by the first
method, a tree can be made to fill its allotted space
sooner by half the time, and the loss of a branch
can be supplied with greater facility, at any period
of its age, than by the last method. But for trees
on very low walls, and on espaliers, the horizontal
method may be practised with greater propriety ;.
as they cannot be trained so handsomely on such,
in the fan manner, as on higher walls.

Mr Knight,in his communication to the London
Horticultural Society, on a new met/20d of train-
ingfi'uz't trees, observes, “ That when trees are by
any means deprived of the motion which their
branches naturally receive from the winds, the
forms in which they are trained operate more
powerfully on their permanent health and vigour,
than is generally imagined. ” In this sentiment I

perfectly agree; and I may be allowed to add, that

JANJ WALL AND EBPALIER Inmrs. ‘63

I have been engaged in the training of fruit trees
these twenty-five years, and have trained them in
a great variety of forms. Some in the Dutch style,
running out two branches first, perfectly horizon-
tal, right and left, to the extent of three orfour
yards each way, and from these training shoots
perfectly upright, at nine inches apart, to the top
of the wall; some with screwed stems, and hori-
zontal branches; some with upright stems, and ho-
rizontal branches; some with stems six feet high,
with pendant, upright, and horizontal branches,
so as to appear like a star; and others in the fan
manner; which last, I confess, I prefer to all other
methods of training wall trees. I have altered
many from the above forms to this, both on wall.
and espaliers.

The distance at which the principal branches
should be laid in, is from nine to twelve inches,
according to the strength and nature of the tree,
some growing more gross, both in wood and leaves,
than others. Trees that have arrived at a full-
bearing state, and have filled the spaces allotted to-
them, require nothing further in respect to prun-
ing, than to regulate their spurs, if much cluster-
ed, and to prune away the superfluous breast-

Q

64' INDEX or wonx. - [mm

shoots made in summer, if this have not already
been done.

Most kinds of pears make longer spurs than ap-
ples do, and they are also apt to grow more clus-
tered, particularly in old trees. These should,
therefore, be carefully thinned out; cuttingaway
all the fore-right stub‘s,.on which there are none
but wood buds; retaining the fruit buds only, more
especially such as he nearest to thewall.

Apples often show fruit-buds on the bottom
part of the breast-shoots, shortened in summer; in
which case, if the tree be thin of fruit-spurs, they
should be retained, the better to insure a crop.

Some kinds of pears also produce fruit-buds in
. this manner, particularly in good seasons, and, of
course, under similar circumstances, they ought
to be retained ; but otherwise, let them be cut
.clean off, that a profusion of useless breast-shoots
may be prevented from rising next summer.

Trees that are still in training, and have not yet
filled their spaces, require a different treatment.
Their principal and leading shoots require to be
shortened, in order to make them put out others
to fill the wall or rail. This shortening must be
in proportion to the strength of the shoots; that;

mm] WALL AND ESPALIER mam. 651‘

is, strong shoots may be shortened one-third of”
their lengths; weak shoots, one-half, or two-
thirds; and very weak ones, should be cut in to ‘
the second or third bud. This chastisement will
cause them to put out plenty of branches in
spring; but of which a necessary number may be
retained, whereof to form the tree :-—of which
see further in July and August.

But the side- branches of horizontally trained
trees, must on no account be shortened, except in:
the case of accidental bruises, or other misfor-
tunes; but must be extended at full length, until;
the tree have filled its place. The upright or lead:
. ing shoot only is to be shortened, and that in or-
der to make it put out lateral branches. If this
leading shoot be strong, it may be headed back to
eighteen or twenty inches; but if weak, to nine or"
ten only. The necessity for this-precision, is, that
a weak stem will only put out one pair of laterals,.
and a new leader ;, and that a strong one will sel—
dom push more than two pairs, and a leader. .
Hence ‘the reason why a tree trained in this man-
ner is so much longer in filling its place, than one
trained in the fan manner, as noticed above.

Some kinds of pears, no doubt, if in very rich

E.

66 INDEX or wonx. [mm

soil, will, while in a young and vigorous state,
push three pairs of laterals; and if this be expect-
ed, from the apparent strength of the tree, the
stem may be headed at thirty or thirty-six in-
ehes, instead of eighteen or twenty, as above di-
rected.

aAPTl-COZ‘S, Cherries, and Plums, produce fruit:

"both on spurs, and on the young shoots of last“

summer; and under the head pruning, may very
properly be classed, in order to prevent unneces-
sary repetitions. film—training, for all these kinds,
is to- be preferred to horizontal training, even on:
low walls and espaliers; though in the latter way
they are seldom planted,- particularly apricots; andé
cherries and plums are found to do better as-stan—
dards or buzelars. I shalltherefore consider these
trees as being trained in the former manner.

The principal branches may be arranged at the
distance of eight or nine inches on a medium, ac-
cording to their strength; taking as the extremes,
six and ten. Aged trees of all these kinds * are

 

‘ I might here except the More Park Apricot, and the More]-
la Cherry, which bear chiefly on the young shoots of last year,
and' on close buds or spurs, formed on the two-year old wood:
"hose, particularly the latter, should be trained much in the
amulet-of l’eachea—which see further onwards.

mm] WALL AND ESPALIER FRUITS. 07'

apt to form their spurs in large clusters, which in
this case ought to be neatly thinned out ; chiefly
cutting away the parts farthest from the wall, and
retaining those placed nearest to it, that the fruit.
produced on them may be benefited by its influ-
ence. Spurs of apricots, in particular, and some
of the finer sorts of plums, that are placed at a
distance from the wall, although they may blos-
som very well, and even set their fruit, yet seldom
ripen them; especially in a bad climate, or a bad
season. It, therefore, the tree be in a healthy
state, and if there be an appearance of plenty oi”
fruit-buds on the shoots and branches of last and‘
the former year, the extended spurs may be very
much thinned away; as the fruit produced on
such shoots as can be laid close to the wall, will.
be much superior, both as to size and flavour.
Along with the superfluous part of theselcluSm
tered Spurs, let the fore-right shoots and other
spray of last summer be cleared away, if that have »
not been done in autumn; observing always to
cut close back to the old wood, and to make clean—
wounds, not ragging the edges of the bark. This
latter precaution is more necessary in the pruning

68 INDEX or WORK. [1mm

of stone than other f1 nits, on acco mt of their apt—
ness to gum and canker at every b1 111st.

If the use of the saw be necessary, from the.
strength of any branch to be lopped, or cut out,
let the wound made by it be smoothed with the»
knife ; and if, from the position of any such wound,
it be apprehended that water may lodge, to the
detriment of the tree, let it be laid over with a lit-
tle tar, or any mild paint, preferring the former;
observing to preserve the coating in a sound state,
so as to exclude air and moisture, till the wound
be perfectly healed,and covered with fresh bark-
To exclude air and moisture, simply, is the use of'
any plaster thus applied. The quackery and false
pretensions concerning the charms of Forsyth’s
plaster, have long been detected.

The leading shoots and branches of such trees
as have not filled their spaces, and which are to
be considered as yet in training, must be shorten-
ed, and otherwise treated much as directed above-
for apples and pears. But small shoots that abound
with fruit—buds, and are well- ripened to their extre-
mities, may be laid in at full'length. These may
frequently be laid in between the leading and on
ther branches, there to remain as temporary, and:

tux] WALL mm ESPA’LIER mums. 69

only till they have ripened off their fruit. If any
such were laid in last season, and still remain, let
them now be cleared away.

Figs may now also be pruned with propriety,
provided their shoots have been well ripened last
summer. If otherwise, the work had better be
deferred till next month, or even till March or
April, lest the points oPthe shoots be yet hurt by
frost; in which case they might be pruned to im- ’
proper lengths, and would require to be gone over
again. But supposing the shoots have been well
ripened, and that they may be pruned with pro-
priety, I shall state the method, as formerly prac-
tised by myself, and which, I believe, differs ma-
terially from the common way of pruning and’
training this plant. '

“ The chief art in training the fig is, to keep
every part of the wall full of young shoots; the
plant naturally running into naked unsightly bran-
ches in the middle. Shoots, however, may be
produced with facilityrby slzbrlenz'ng. They also
rise abundantly from the root, round the stem of
the plant. Producing its fruit on the shoots of
the preceding year, these, if well ripened and
hardened by'the sun, shouid‘éiot be f.lit)1".tf:t;l, 1:12:

‘70 INDEX or WORK. JAX.

should be laid in at full length, and at the distance
of twelve or fourteen inches from each other.

“ When the tree arrives at a bearing state, the
knife should be used with caution; for the more
its branches are lopped, a greater profusion of
shoots will follow in consequence; nor will such
generally be fruitful, but soft and spongy. The
most- fruitful shoots of the fig are shortjointed,
round, and of little length in proportion to-their
thickness. ” ’"‘

Nectarines and Peaches may also now be pruned.
It is wrong to suppose, as has been advanced by
some, that’frost will induce canker at the wounds
of these, or indeed any fruit-trees, at this period
of the season. Their juices are now in a dormant
state; the'unripened points of the shoots will now
be evident, if such there be on the tree; and it
cannot be wrong to prune under these circumstan-
ces. But, generally speaking, it is not wrong to
prune any kind of fruit-tree, if we except the fig
and the vine, at any day of the year.

These trees ought to be trained in the fan man-
ner only. It is not practicable to train them to

 

“ Forcing Gardener, article Fig-House.
t:

3AN.] WALL AND ESPALIER FRUITS. 71

any considerable extent horizontally, as they pro:
duce their fruit entirely on the shoots of last year ;
and because these often require to be shortened,
and the older branches to be cut entirely away, in
order to obtain a supply of young bearing wood.
A peachstree, therefore, may be said to be always
in training, insomuch as there must be a constant
cutting out of old, and encouragement of young
wood, in every part of the tree, even after it has
filled the full space allotted to it. How near the
older branches may be placed to each other, is not
very important. They may sometimes be pretty
close, and sometimes more distant, according to
the number and position of young shoots upon
them. These, in a tolerably healthy and well-re-
gulated tree, should lie at the distance of five or
six inches from each other. It is the regular ar-
rangement of the young shoots, more than of the
older shoots and branches, that produces health
and beautyin a peach or nectarine tree; and which,
in summer, exhibits a regularity of foliage», and in
autumn, a display of handsome fruit, in every part
of the tree, highly pleasing.

As said above, the young shoots of these trees
often require to be shortened. This is to be un—

- "72 INDEX or wonx. LIAN.

derstood of such as are hurt by frost, (not being
fully ripened to their extremities), bruised by ac-
cident, cankered, or mildeWed ; and more particu-
larly of those from which it is wished to produce
a supply of other shoots, either to fill a vacancy,
or for extension of the tree. Such as are strong
and vigorousinay generally be headed back one-
third of their lengths; those less strong, one-half;
and those very weak, back to two or three buds;
observing always to cut at a'wood-bud, which may
be distinguished from a fruit-bud, by its being long
and flattish, the latter being short and turgid. 0::
strong shoots, a wood-bud is frequently placed be-
tween two fruit-buds, and it is very proper to cut
at such; generally cutting at half an inch above it.

In a tree extended to its full size, shortening of
the young shoots is less necessary at or near to its
extremities, unless hurt by frost, canker, or mil-
dew, than in the lower parts ; because, the more
we cut, the more the tree will grow; and as all
trees naturally grow strongest at their extremities,
it follows that we should cut least there, and ex-
ercise the knife more freely in the lower and mid-
tile parts, in order to counteract this propensity,

‘ ' ' . ~ , u . I .3 . 1 ‘fi
1.13:1; obtain a regular supplv of oemmg seems.
.c . .

JANJ WALL AND ESPALI-ER FRUITS. '73

Unless for these reasons, the middle~sized, hard,
and well. ripened shoots that abound in fruit-buds,
and have a bold wood-bud at their extremities,
need not be shortened, but may be laid in at full
length. It often happens, on such, that there
will be a wood-bud at the point, and only one or
two at the lower end; the intermediate ones be-
ing all fruit-buds. It requires some care, there-
fore, to discriminate these, and some practice to
know where to cut, if it were necessary to shorten
such. To cut in the middle of the shoot, would
be useless, as no bud would push except that at
the bottom ; and although the fruit-buds might
bloom, and the fruit might set, yet they would
not ripen for want of nourishment, occasioned
by the want of a leading shoot.

Since writing the above, I have perused Mr
Knight’s new method of training fruit- trees, as
communicated by him to the London Horticul-
tural Society, which I think, upon the whole, very
ingenious, but by no means such as to induce me
to alter one word of what I had written on the
subject. His method of training the Peach, as
exhibited by the plate, evidently tends to produce

a very uglv tree, witheutgnini'tg any advertnefr‘;

7% INDEX or WORK. (JAN.

since the Peach must continually be pruned, as
said above, in order to obtain a supply of bearing
wood. Neither can it well be accounted a new
method; as it very nearly approaches to what has
long been termed, in this country, the zad me-
thod of training.

I have more than once trained the branches of
a peach-tree downwards, and to either side, as
occasion required, but could never discover better
fruit on the pendant, or horizontal shoots, than
on those trained upright, or fanwise. If there be
a just reason for training the shoots of any fruit-
tree horizontally, in my apprehension it is the
pear, and that chiefly on account of its natural
luxurianc-e in good soils.

But it might be asked, what fruit-tree grows
naturally in a horizontal manner? All, except
the vine perhaps, grow upright, or, more properly
speaking, in the fan manner, spreading out their
branches on all sides. Surely none grow like the
larch, or the spruce; and it has been a universal
maxim of the best horticulturists, to direct the cut-
ting out of cross wood, and to keep the tree nio-
derately thin of branches in the middle.

Mr Knight, in speaking of training peaches,

n

can] WALL AND ESPALIER mums. 7.,

says, “ These shoots, our gardeners, from Lang-
ley to F orsyth, have directed to be shortened in
summer, or cut out in the succeeding spring 5 but;
I have found great advantages in leaving them
wholly unshortened, ” &c. I have to regret, that
Mr Knight does not appear to have met with a
work which I first published in 1797, under the
title of “ The Scots Forcing Gardener,” in which,
in treating of the training of peaches, I say, “ Ob-
serve this practice (i. e. shortening the shoots) till
the trees have filled their places; and afterwards
shorten none, unless to fill any casual vacancy. ”
First edit. p. 86.

“ It is a common practice to shorten every shoot
less or more. This may be proper in many in-
stances, on peaches growing in the open air, as
when the extremities of the shoots have not been
fully ripened, and are injured by frost; but it can
only be so far proper in the peach house, as to
cause the plant push shoots to fill a vacancy, or to
keep the bottom part of the trellis furnished with
a supply of young wood. ” Fourth edit. p. 135.
Now, without such shortening, and indeed without
training the peach truly in the fan manner, by
which only there can be a regular distribution of

76 ‘ INDEX or won-x. LIAN.

young shoots in all parts of the plant, what sort of
looking trees shall we have ? truly, very unsight-
ly ones. Whatever theory ‘may suggest, good
practice proves, that where healthy shoots can be
produced, time can also plump, fair, and whole-
some fruit be produced; and that there will [be a
regular flow of the sap. The reader may see
further on this topic, and may find most of l\Ir
Knight’s objections to the present mode of pruning
peaches obviated, by following the subject through-
out the Index of Work for the summer months, as
written and published before I read his paper a-
bove noticed.

Qf Heading down Stinted T recs.

\Vhen trees become diseased and stinted through
age, or by improper treatment, and produce bad
fruit, few, and irregularly, it is often more proper
to head them quite down to the graft or bud, than
to spend time in trying to recover them by a bet-
ter mode of culture; that is to say, frees (fa good
kind ,- for otherwise, it would be more advisable
to stub them up, and plant better sorts in their
places. If. the roots be examined, and be pruned

of an -' Harts dead .or cankercd at thesnme time;
3 L ’ )

JAKJ ‘ WALL AND ESPALIER FRUITS. 77'

and if the soil be refreshed by the addition of new
earth or compost, and if necessary, be made deep-
er; the success attending the heading down would
be the greater. Under proper management, af-
terwards, a fruitful, healthy tree, might suddenly
fill the space occupied by disease and barrenness.

This operation, however, must be carefully per-
formed; observing to cut to within a few inches
of the graft or bud; making clean wounds, in a.
sloping manner, so as to shoot off wet; covering
the wounds with a little tar or mild paint, to keep
out rain and exclude air, as hinted at above, until
they be cicatrized. A more proper season for
heading down old trees, however, than the pre-
sent, is the middle or end of hIarch, or just when
the trees begin to vegetate. It is mentioned here,
in the course of treating on the subject of prun-
ing, in order to prevent repetitions.

The training of the new shoots differs in no re-'
spect from that of training the shoots of strong,,
healthy, young trees of the same sorts; the rules
for slzortem'ng, for the purpose of filling the wall,
Ste. according to their strengths, next winter-
pruning, and so forth, being carefully observed-

This heading down maybe practised on any

78‘ INDEX or WORK. DAN.

kind of fruit-tree with equal propriety; but in the
treatment of stonefl'uits, most care is necessary
with regard to making clean wounds, and in ex-
cluding air and moisture from them afterwards.
Likewise cutting, if possible, in the heading down
of peaches, 8w. just‘above shoots or buds of some
promise, that will spring.

Some use other means for the recovery of stint~
ed trees, such as ripping the stem longitudinally,
paring a slice off the bark crosswise, 8Lc. ; but I
know of no method equal to heading, or partial<~
ly heading' them down, and dressing their roots-
with new soil or compost, as hinted at above.

0f Destroying Insects on Fruit- Trees.

The business of pruning being over, I shall now
give directions for a very important operation in
the management of fruit-trees; which is, was/zing-
br anointing the branches, for the destruction, and
to prevent the breeding of insects.

With respect to many of the insects that infest
wall-trees, it is in vain we attempt their destruc-~
tion in spring and summer. They are then in»
such vigour, and commit their ravages in a man«
her so summary, as often to baffle our best skills

JAIL] WALL AND ESI’ALIER mUITs. 79

and endeavours for their suppression. At that;
season, also, the mean that might work their de-
struction, often works that of the foliage and fruit,
on account of its powerful effects on the juices,
which are then in an active state, circulating
through every part of the plant. Winter is, there-
fore, the proper season to apply the following so-
lution, when the juices are determined to the root:
-—-§oft soap, two pounds; flowers of sulphur, two
pounds; leaf, or roll tobacco, two pounds; nux
vomica, four ounces; and turpentine, an English
gill; boiled in eight English gallons of soft or ri-
ver water, to six. It is to be used milk warm.

Unnail, or untie, all the branches from the wall
or trellis; brush every part of the tree clean with
a soft brush, such as is used for painting; then,
with a sponge, carefully anoint every branch,
shoot, and bud; being sure to rub it well into
every joint, hole, and angle, as it is there the eggs
or larvm of the insects are chiefly lodged. The
rails, spars, 8:0. of the espalier or trellis, should
also be anointed, as above.

To*insinuate that a wall should also berthus a—
nointed or washed, may be thought goingitoo far,
though there cannot be a doubt of its eflicacy, in:

80‘ INDEX or wonx. DAN...

that case, of eradicating all, or most insects that
infest our fruits. At any rate, none will hesitate
to anoint a plastered wall, which may very easily
be done, on account of its smoothness; and such.-
Walls frequently occur, not only in hot-houses, but
out of doors, against which trees are trained.

This operation should be repeated every win-
ter, some time between the fall of the leaf and the
first of March, as may be most convenient. The
solution is effectually destructive of all kinds of
“Insects, their eggs, or larvae.

If there beany specific for the cureof the Canker,
other than the preparation ofagood and kindly soil,
lying on a comfortable subsoil, (See the Section on ,
Soils), itis this unction; as it contains the two in-
gredients thought most efficacious for its destruc-
tion, viz. Soap and Sulphur. And, if these have
any efi‘ect, I think this a preferable season for
their application to summer; as, by merely dust.
ing over the foliage with sulphur, the blood of the
tree is not purged. In order to be efl‘ectual, the
sulphur must be rubbed into the pores of the
wood, and must be detained there some length of ‘
time. Now, this glutinous liquor, if properly ap~~

plied, will continue to act upon the pores and

l

P”?

JAN] WALL AND Esramen FRUITS; 8

juices of the tree for many weeks, or even n'ionths;
whereas, sulphur alone applied to the foliage, is
dissipated by the wind, or washed off by rains,
perhaps in a day. For the Mildew, which is a n1i~
nute parasitical fungus, and is greatly encourag—
ed by the sickliness of trees, when their juices are
corroded, or contaminated, by improper manage-
ment, nothing is so efl‘ectual a remedy, if we except;
the preparation of a fit soil, as this liquor; with
which shoots of trees affected with this dise case
should carefully be washed, as above directed.

Now dress the trees neatly to the wall or trellis
again, but use none of the old shreds. The old
nails should also be new pointed, and, previous to'
using, should be soaked in the liquor. Observe
to allow sufficient room in the shreds or ties; that
is, as much as would admit another shoot of equal
size, along with that laid in, provided it be one or
two years old, vigorous, and healthy; and for the
larger branches, generally as much room as will
admit the finger easily besides the branch.

In drwingthenailalso, (which >l1<1uld never be
broad headed), observe to lay its head in a position
slop 1:1.ng [m the shoot or branch. in 01d :1 that

t‘ .1926 11.x: g, 11otgrow over it: which if the_' did, can~

E

82‘ INDEX OF WORK. [mm

her would most probably ensue in consequence;
particularly if the tree be of any of the stone- fruit
kinds. Observe further, to use no more nails,
shreds, or ties, than may be just requisite to keep‘
the shoots and branches in a proper position. All
others are cumbersome; nor should the shreds ever
be broader, than just to be sulliciently strong.

Qf Pruning Ore/lard, and other Standard Fruit Trees.

These may now very properly be pruned," if
not already done; and let it he‘here observed,
that both the health: of these trees, and the pro-
duction of beautiful and well-sized fruit, depend
lmuch on judicious pruning. This matter is too
little attended to in general, orchard and other
standard fruits being frequently let grow in a state
perfectly wild ;, and that too by those whose inte-
rests would be very materially served by a con,-
trary conduct, namely, the market gardeners and
fruit growers.

On young trees, the knife should not be used
too freely; but chiefly in order to cause them
push shoots, of which to form a proper head. Ge.
nerally, the shoots may be shortened in propor—
-tion to their lengths, muchas already directed for

JAN.) WALL AND ESPALIER mums. 831

apples and pears, trained against walls; cutting
clean away such ascross one another ; and/aiming
the tree out towards the extremities on allsides ;
thereby keeping it equally poised, and fit to re-
sist the effects of high winds.

When it is wished to throw a young tree into a.
bearing state, which should not be thought of,
however, sooner than the third or fourth year af-
ter planting, the leading branches should be ,very
little shortened, and the lower, or side branches,
not at all; nor should the knife be otherwise used,
unless to cut out such shoots as cross one another,-
as above hil.ted.. ‘

But on aged trees, that have run into a confu-
sion of shoots and branches, and whose spurs have
become clustered and crowded, the saw and the
knife may be exercised with freedom : to out clean
away all useless spray, rotten stumps, or the like,
as alreadydirected; Thin out the spurs ina mo-
derate manner, so as to let the air circulate freely
among the leaves and fruit next summer, and to
let in the rays of the sun, which will-give both (:0-
lour and fllvour to the latter;

Orchard, or other ~tandard trees that are very
much stinted, and produce bad crops on account.

84: . INDEX or WORK. [JAE

of ill treatment, ungenial soil, or the like, may
be Iz‘eaded down, as above directed for wall-trees
(p. 76.), if any other mode of treatment he deem-
ed insufficient for their recovery; at the same
time improving the soil about them ;—as also a-
bove hinted at. But March is a more proper sea-

son for such heading down, as already noticed;
which see.

Qf Cleaning Orchard Trees of Ilfoss.

Orchard trees often, particularly in humid si-
tuations, become stinted, and get covered with
lichens or mosses. This stintedness sometimes
proceeds from a bad soil; and it is also frequent-
ly occasioned by stagnation of air among the fo-
liage: but from whatever cause it may proceed,
, it is of very pernicious consequences, both to the
tree and its fruit. Thinning out the head, as a-
bove directed, will, in a great measure, prove a re-
ymedy; which may be considerably aided by scra- ‘
ping and cleaning off the moss, and washing or a-
nointing the branches with the liquor, as directed.
above for wall and espalier trees. This would be
attended by another beneficial efi'ect ; that of de-
stroying the eggs or larvae of insects, which in

JANI] mart. FRUITS. 85

most; summers are no small annoyance to these
trees. This clearing of the trees from moss, need
not be repeated every year ; once in two, three, or
four years, maybe enough, according to circum-
stances; but it should never he suffered to over-

grow too far, as, in that case, it would both be te-,

dious and expensive to overcome.

SMALL mums.
Qf Planting Currants, Gooseberries, and Raspberries.
I If plantations of these be required, this is a pro-
per season for planting, provided the ground be
pretty dry, and the weather be not frosty. In the
Section on the Kinds of Fruits, (p. 44.), I have
specified the distances at which these should be
planted, according to the quality of the soil; di-
rections which need not be repeated here. 'I shall
add, hoWever, that the ground for these planta-
tions should be trenched, or dug to its full depth,
previous to planting; and that although these
fruits will generally do very well in ordinary gar-
den land, well manured, yet currants, gooseber-
ries, and raspberries, thrive best, and are most
prolific in sub-humid soils, in which there is a.
considerable proportion of moss; and that straw~

‘85 INDEX or worm. [Jam

herrics, more particularly the hautboy, are most
prolific 1n clayey loams, though less early than 1n
lighter soils.

0f Pruning Currants and Gooseberrics.

Currants and Gooseberrz'es may now be pruned
'with propriety, provided that have not already
been done. These plants produce their fruit both
on spurs, and on the shoots of last summer; but
the fruit produced on the latter is always largest,
' ‘he shoots to be retained, therefore, should be
left at full length.

It is a very general practice to shorten all the
shoots of these plants, less or mm c; and some have
hardly any thing else than the spurs formed on the
old branches; both which modes are very wrong.
The spurs on the under parts, and indeed on most
parts of the old branches, may be left; Only thin-
ning them out a little, when very thick. The
'plant ought to be well thinned out in the middle,
culting clean out the watersheds of last season,
and all such as cross one another; generally leav-
ing the leading shoots and branches at the distance
of nine or ten inches from each other: Thus keep-
ing the plant free and open in the heart, andfaiz.

Mn] 1 SMALL moms. 87‘

wing it out regularly, on all sides. Suckers often
rise from the roots of these plants, which should
all be cleared away.

Qf Prunzng Raspbernes.

Raspberries may now also be pruned. T hey
produce their fruit entirely on the shoots of last
year, a supply of which rise from the roots of the
plant, each summer, in great abundance. The.
old shoots being now of no farther use, are to be
removed, and three or four of the best of those
produced last season, should be retained in their
places; at the same time clearing away the rest of
the young shoots; never leaving more than three
or four of thestrongest, otherwise the plant would
become a perfect hush next summer, and get out
of all kind of order.

The most simple method, and perhaps the best,
of supporting them, is, to twist or plait the shoots
loosely together, and tie them at top with mat-
ting, pack-thread, or spun-yarn. If the shoots
be pretty strong, they will require no stake, un-
less the situation be very much exposed to the
wind. Previous to tying, the shoots may gene-
rally be shortened a few inches.

$8 messes worm. [um

A Fanciful, and indeed a very sensible method
of dressing raspberries, also, is to tie or plait the
points of one half of the shoots on the stools, re-
spectively with each other; so as that each line
may form a row of festoons, or arches; by which
means they are perfectly secured from the effects
of the wind, and require no stakes, though ever
so much exposed.

0F SHRUBS.

Qf' Planting Deciduous Shrubs.

Deciduous Shrubs of all kinds may now be plant-
' ed in fresh weather, especially if the soil be light.
If it be heavy and wet, the planting had better be
delayed till next month, or till March. Observe
to expose the roots of the plants as little to the
air as possible, particularly if anywise frosty. Ve-
ry much of the success in planting depends on
‘ spreading out the fibres regularly, and covering
them equally with fine earth; so that pains should
be taken to break a little earth well with the spade,
for each plant in the first place, to place itproperly,
and to fill in the mould slowly; shaking the plant
gently, treading lightly round it with the foot, and
setting it perfectly upright. If the plants be large,

JANJ or sununs. 8!}

they should be carefully staked, in order to prevent"
wind-waving; which, as observed already, is very
prejudicial to all new planted trees or shrubs.

. Evergreens should not. be planted at this season:
but of which, see April and August. In the first
and fourth sections, I have noticed the method of
arrangement for these 0plants, and their respective
distances, which need not be repeated.

It may be necessary to remark, however, that
as the evergreens are not to be planted at this
time, in the case of mixing these among decidu-
ous shrubs, or having an intention to do so, their
places should be left. By setting up twigs, in
place of the real plants, the arrangement may be
more perfectly formed.

0/ Planting and Clipping Deciduous Hedges.

All kinds of deciduous hedges may now be
planted if the weather be favourable for the pur-
pose; such as Briar, Privet, Honeysuckle, Filberd,
Thorn, 8Lc.; but evergreen hedges, as holly, yew,
fie; should not be planted at this time, but in.
April or August, for the reasons there given; to
which the reader is referred for directions on the

90 INDEX or WORK. [mm

formation of all kinds of hedges, whether as
screens, or as fences.

Deciduous hedges may now be clipped, plash-
ed, or be cut down, according as they may need:
it is very fit work at this season, if the weather be
such as to prevent other operations from going
forward. See April 'for hints on the method of
training all sorts of hedges. ‘

Care of Grass and Gravel Wall‘s, Verges, Syc.

In fresh weather, all grass walks, verges, or
plats, should be polled, swept, and rolled, once in
eight or ten days, in order to clear them of worm
casts, and keep the surface firm, smooth, and
agreeable to the foot, especially walks; but even
plats and edgings look infinitely better for this
trouble, and should be dressed at least once a fort-
night or three weeks, according to the state of
the weather.

Gravel walks should also be cleared from weeds,
moss, and every sort of litter, if the weather be
open, either by hand- picking, or by hoeing them;
and they should be frequently rolled, especially
after having been hoven up by frost.

exist] ‘ or FLOWERS. ' 91
or FLOWERS.
Care 9/ Cleoicc Flowers in Pots.

The choice Auriculas, Carnations, ‘Cmnpanu-
las, Stocks, Sac. in pots, and placed in their {vin-
ter quarters, as directed in September, should be
carefully attended to at this season. See full di-
rections for their management throughout winter, ‘

in that month.

Care of Clzoice ‘Bulés.

The beds of choice Hyacinths and Tulips, if
not covered as directed in November, should be
covL-red without furtherdelay. If the weather be i
very changeable and wet, they should be defended
from its bad effects by hoops and mats, or by
canvas covers, as directed 'in March; which co-

A vers should always, however, be removed in good
weather, and should only be applied to defend the
roots from heavy rains. Snowywill do less harm:
and if they be covered as directed in November,
ihcy will be safe from the effects of frost.

9% INDEX 015‘ womc. [mm

0f Planting Bulbous Flowers.

Bulbous flower roots of any kind may be plant-
ed at this season, if the weather be open, and the
soil have been properly prepared for them. But
a much better season is October; to which month
the reader is referred for full directions on plant-
ing bulbs of all kinds: also, Anemones and Ra-
nunculuses.

 

INDEX OF WORK.

 

FEBRUARY.

 

CUL l NARY VEGETABLES;

BEANS.—lf the early kinds have not been sown,
as directed last month, they may now be sown;
and the sooner in the month the better. Also
now plant, for a full crop, of the Long-pod or
,‘Vizzdsor kinds, in a free and open exposure, in‘
rows twenty-four or thirty inches asunder, and
five or six in the row. In free soils, the setting-
stick may be used; but in stifi'land it is better to
drill with the hoe, about three inches in depth.
In a good dry day, stir the surface with the hoe
or rake, among beans that have been sown in Oc-
tober or November, and are now above ground.
This is of very great service to the crop, particu-
larly if it grov i strong soil. Towards the end.

94. INDEX or wonx. [FEB'y

of the month, repeat this stirring, and draw a little
earth to the stems of such crops as are most for- '
ward; being careful, however, not to cover up the
hearts of the plants. '

Cabbages may be sown about the first or second
week of the month, for crops to succeed those
sown last August, and planted out in October.
Sow on a rich, light, open spot, thinly, and do not
cover the seeds too deep : an eighth to a quarter of
an‘inch is enough for these, or any sort of bras-
sim. Rake all smooth, but do not tread the
ground at this early season. [Trending may be
proper on light soils, in summer; but in spring
and autumn, it is not. so. On heavy land it is
never so, especially in sowing of small seeds.

Also now sow a little Red Cabbage; choosing
the dwarf, dark red or purple kind.

bout the middle or end of the month, plant

out a full crop of cahbagcs, to succeed those
planted in autumn. The kindsarc the Dwarf,
Battcrsea, York, or Sugar-loaf; any of which may
now be planted. Plant on good land, in an open
exposure, and do not be sp'rningr of the dunghill;
likewxsc he sureto dig deep, and cover the mt‘

muewell in. From eighteen to twenty-tour

mm] GULINARY VEGETABLES. 95

inches square, according to the quality of the soil,
is a good distance at which to plant.

Red cabbages may also now be planted, in
every respect as above, if of the dwarf kind; if
the tall, which is not the best kind, allow a little
more room. ‘ '

Carrot, for an early crop, may be sown on a
light border or other sheltered spot, about the
middle or end of the month; but it is soon
enough to sow the principal crop the beginning
of April. The seed, for this crop, may either be
sown broadcast, or in drills. If broadcast, shed
as equally as possible, cover lightly, and rake all
smooth. Tread none. If in drills, let them be
shallow; half an inch in depth is enough; and
ten or twelve inches apart. Cover with the hoe
or rake, and dress the surface fine. See further
on this subject in April. The early} 7201?: is fittest

for the present sowintr

a, though {hem-ange may

answer very well.

Cbulzflowrr.-Sow on an early border of fine'
rich earth at the beginning, and also at the end of
.the month, for a succession of summer cauli-
flower. Sow moderately thick, cover lightly, and
rake all smooth and neat. .

'96 INDEX 0? worm. EYES.

, About the middle or end of the month, plant
out, for an early crop, on a warm, rich border,
'Well manured, at two feet square; and observe
not to plant too deep. If it be intended to cover
with hand glasses, a few to come in the earliest,
they may be planted so as that a glass may cover
two plants; but if bell-glasses are to be used, one
under each will be enough.‘ After planting, give
a moderate watering; and. dress off the ground.
neatly.

Celery may be sown about the end of the month,
for an early crop. Choose a rich, light bed of
earth, on an early border; or sow at the bottom
of a wall or other fence. Cover llghdy , and rake
fine. If this vegetable be required very early, it
might be sown the beginning of the mmtli; and its
progress might be promoted by bein g eovc red with
a few handglasses, or a frame and lights. But
observe, this sowing is not to be depended on for a
crop ; the plants raised so early being apt to shoot
for seed. See March and April. Upright solid
celvrg is the best kind.

Claims are a substitute for spring onions, and
are used by many, both in the kitchen, and as »al~
lads. They will grow in almost any soil, and are

£123.] CULINARY VEGETABLES. 97'

easily propagated by sets. Plant in rows, eight or
nine inches asunder, and four or five in the row.
Any time in this month will answer, or in March.

Garlick and It’ocambole.—-Now plant a full crop
of these roots. See Garlick for January.

flame-radish—About the end of the month is a.
fit time to make plantations, though it will do very-
well any time in the two following months. But
anything that can be equally well done this month,
ought to be accomplished; as next month may be
said to be the busiest in the whole year with the
gardener. Any soil, especially if light, will an-
swer, Dig deep, and plan: the sets in the fur- _
rows, by line, as you go on; eighteen inches be-
tween, and six in line. Place the sets upright,
and keep their crowns just above ground. If they , J
be three inches in length, it isvsufiicient; and it is
immaterial how much longer they be. If such sets
as these cannot be procured, cuttings of the roots,
without crowns, may be planted, and will sue-
cee-d very well; only they will not be useful so
soon. They may be cut into pieces of three or
four inches in length, and may either be planted
as above, (but entirely within ground), or with the
setting—stick.

G.

98 INDEX or WORK. [here

A little lettuce, radish. or spinage, may be drill.
ed in between the lines, whirh would come ofi'in.
time, and without injuring the- crop.

Artist—A few for the first plantation may be

, sown in a bed along with the onions. (asrnoticed
below), only-considerably thicker. The principal
‘crop should'not be sown till March; which see.

Onions.——About the end of the month is a pro-
per time to sow a full crop of onions, in land of a
middling texture. If heavy and wet, the sowing
had better be‘del‘erred till next month,or till the
first of April. There are several sorts of onions,
viz. the Strasburg, Deptford, Portugal or Straniah,
R‘edsskinned, Silver-skinned, 8%.; any of which
may be sown at this time ;, but the two first,.
(which are indeed said to be one and the samel,
generally produce the best crops, and are certain-T
ly the best keepers. I have, however, often seen
very abundant crops of the silver kind.

The land should be well broken in the diggingh
If it have been manured-for the preceding crop,
and be in good heart, so much the better; but
otherwise it will require to be (lunged, In this
case, a compost of stable-dung, cow-dung, and-
earth, is to be preferred to any simple dung. A3;

233.] CULINARY VEG ETABLES. 99.»

any rate, new, rank stable-dung, is improper; e- ‘
specially for light soils. Neither dig nor sow il’ the
ground be not in a comfortably dry state, other-
wise the seeds will not rise frccly. Sow either in
fiSur-lbot beds, thinly. and cover to the thickness
of a quarter of an inch; or in shallow drills, nine
or ten inches apart, also thinly. Rake all smooth,
but tread none in either case..

The winter crop of onions should be gone over
about the end of the month ;_ it should be cleared.
from weeds, and be thinned, ifneedl‘ul; and let the
surface be well stirred up among the plants. If’
green onions be in demand fin‘ the use of the
kitchen, they need not be much thinned out at
this time; reserving the final thinning till April.
or May; of which See further in these months.

Parsley of all the kinds may again be sown. for
successional crops. See January.

’Peas.—A full crop of Charltons may be sown-
at the beginning, and. of Marrowlots at the end of
the month ;, choosing an open situation for either.
For the manner of sowing, distance, 8w. see.
~ January; only observe to allow marrowfats, roun-
civals, and all the large kinds, six inches more
between the rows, and sow them thinner than

100 _ INDEX or worn. , [may

Charltons orblue Prussian. There are manykinds
of‘peas, any of which may now be sown, accord-
ing to fancy ;. but observe, that the Charlton,
dwarf marrow, and Prussiansorts, are most pro-
ductive; also fittest for small gardens, on account
of their requiring less room than the larger kinds.

Stir the surface about the early crops-that have-
risen, and earth up those farthest advanced, in
manner as directed above for beans ;. which also.
repeat at the end of the month.

Potatoes-.—A few may be ventured on a warm-
light spot, under a wall or other fence ; but the
nearer to the end oi the month the better. See
March and April. V

Shallots may still’he planted, if not already done,

and the sooner now the better. See last month
for the manner of plantino.
, spillage, of the round sort, may be sewn on an
open spot, at- the beginning, and also at the end
of the month, for successional crops. See January
for the manner of sowing.

Now hoe and ‘clean the winter crops; and if
these be ever so free from weeds, let the earth be
stirred about the plants, which should previously
he thinned out to eight or nine inches square, if

‘mnfj sA‘LL'A‘ns. 101

broadcast, and to three or four apart, if in drills.
Spinage thus managed will produce a, fine large
blade, if in good land, and will fill the basket
much better than if left unthinned. '

. . SALLADS.

Lettuce may again be sown, 'for Crops'to suc-
iceed those sown last month; in the first week of
the month, in a’ sheltered situation; and in the
last week, in an open spot. For the manner of
sowing, and of the kinds, see January. Now al-
so clean and thin the crops of winter lettuce; hoe,
‘or otherwise stir the ground amongst them, as
they may need. '

Ram's/2 may now be sown in an open situation,
either singly, or among other crops, as hinted at
last month; which see. For a constant supply-of
young redishes, sow every ten or twelve days.

571ml! Sallading, that is, Chervill, Cress, and
Mustard, may now he sown on an early border,
either in beds, or in rows; but by being sown in
7rows, they are more easily gathered. Drill half
an inch deep, and six or eight inches asunder; and
sew thickly. Sow every ten or twelve days.

3‘02 . INDEX or wonx. [F‘Efn

WALL, ESPALmR, Arm STANDARD FRUITS.

If any of these were not planted last month, let
it now be done, where requisite, in order to pre-
vent, as much as possible, too great a hurry of
work in March; many operations in gardening'
falling to be performed then. Likewise let the
priming of these trees be expedited, and be finish-
ed, if convenient, this month. For full direc«
tions on both these subjects, see January.

SMALL FRUITS.

VVhatever plantations of these may still be re»
quisite, ought to be finished with the month, for
the reasons mentioned above; and because the
plants will now begin to vegetate, if the weather
be favourable. Also, finish the pruning of these
fruits, without delay; as otherwise, the buds may
be injured in the operation, being now easily dis-
placed in handling of the shoots. See January,
.for full directions on both these subjects.

After the pruning is finished, let the ground a.-

‘ mong the plants be digged; at the same time add-
ing manure, if necessary, and digging it well in.

It the plantations be young, that is, under three

\

item] snnuss. 103

, years, a row of cabbages er broad beans may now
be planted between the writs of bushes; or, at the
propertime, a couple of rows of carrot, turnip, or
potatoes may be drilled in between them.

or SHRUBS.
’Finish planting deciduous shrubs and trees as
‘ soon now as convenient; of which see January.
Also now plant deciduousfzcdges, as thorn, 'pri‘vet,
or briar; but forbear to plant evergreen shrubs or
hedges till April, the end of July, or beginning

of August; which times see.

’ Qf Pruning Shrubs.

About the latter end of the month, when very
severe frosts will be over, and none need be appre-
hended that will now much hurt shrubs; they
may be pruned of all, dead branches, and points
of shoots that have been damaged by the severity
of winter. Roses, and several other kinds that
grow very bushy, may be thinned 'out a little, in
the centre; and the stronger and middling shoots
of roses should be more or less shortened, in or-
der to cause them push shoots and flowers more
‘freely. Several Iothers require the like manage-

'

m1. ‘1):an or wonK. [ram

ment; but most shrubs require nothing further
than to be pruned of injured shoots, straggling
branches, or of‘ suckers that rise round the stem.
Avoid trimming up shrubs of any kind in n for-
mal manner. The more natural and irregular the
outline of the plant, the better. Topiary work,
, and regular clipping with the shears, is now just- V
-]y exploded; as being unworthy of a taste im-

proved by refiections on the simplicity and beauty
of Nature.

Of Digging the Shrubbrg. ‘
:Many kinds of shrubs put up a number of suck-

ers from the root, which should now be displaced;
and which, if not wanted for fillingup occasional
vacancies, may be planted out to nurse in aspot
by themselves; or may otherwise be disposed of,
as shall be thought proper. Then let the ground
he digged over,- among the plants; observing to
injure their roots as little as possible, in the ope-
ration. If the shrubbry be pretty old, and if the
roots be «much extended and intermixed, the dig~
ging had better be done with a three— pronged fork,
than with the spade. In old shrubbries, where the
plants are quite met, digging is not very practica-

’53,] FLOWERS. . IOS

ble, nor at all advisable. The hoe and the rake
only should be introduced amongst them. Ofwhich
see further in March and 'April.

Care of Grass Walls, 63‘s.

Continue to sweep and roll all grass walks,
.edgings, and plats, as directed last month ; trim-
‘miug up the verges and water tables ; 'putting all
in nice order as the season advances and invites
us abroad, that the eye may not be disgusted with

an y thing unseemly.

or FLOWERS.
Auriculas.

The choice stage Auriculas, made by slips in
August, will now require to be putiuto their full
pots. This may be done any time in the month,
if the weather be open and fresh. :1“ hese pots.
should be about six inches in diameter, and eight
inches deep. \But of this, and of the soil for pot-
ted Auriculas, see August. Those in full pots
may be dressed about the middle or latter end of '

the month, if the weather be fine; of which, see
.March.

106 INDEX or woxuc. [ram

0] Sowing Flower-Seeds.

Towards the latter end of the month may be
sown some of the hardier kinds of annual flowers,
such as Adonis, Candytuft, Catchfly, C onvolvri-
lus, Hawksbeard, Larkspur, Lavatera, Lupines,
Poppies, and Sweet Peas, in patches where they

’ are to remain. Likewise may now be sown for
transplanting, Auri‘culas, Polyanthuses, Sweet .
Williams, Stocks, VVallflowers, 8w. Of which,
see further in March.

Of Planting Hardy Perennials.

Towards the latter end of the month may be
planted many hardy perennial flowers, either in
patches about the borders, or in beds by them-
selves, according to fancy: vii. American Cow-
slip; Asters, many species; Auriculas; Campa-
nulas;yCarnations; Cranesbills; Daisies; Dog’s-
tooth—Violet; Double Violets; Double Catchfiy‘;
Garden Valerian; Gentianella; Greek Valerian,
’blue and white; Hepatica; Lily of the Valley;
London Pride; Peony-rose; Pinks; Polyanthus-
es; Primroses; Ranunculuses, or Bachelor’s But-
tons; Rockets; Rose C’ampion; Saxifi‘age, the

335.] FLOWERS. 107

large double red and white; Scarlet Lychnis;
Stocks, many sorts; Veronicas; \Vallflowers,
single, double, and bloody,- and many otheis.

Qf Diggilig and [facing the Flower-Borders.

Let the beds and 'borders inthe flower-ground
now be digged, hoed and raked; digging with a
three-pronged fork among the fibrous rooted kinds
that have been thickly planted, and pointing up
the alleys and more open spaces with the spade;
dressing all neatly with the rake. About the end ~
of the month, get ready the vacant places intend-
ed to be sown and- planted in March; hoe and
weed the‘walks and alleys, and otherwise dress
up the flower-ground, as far as it will admit at
this time, that too great a bustle he not occasion-
ed next month, when all is hurry at any rate.

Qf Planting, and making Edgings.
Edgings of Daises, Thrift, Violets, Gentianella,
Sic. may now also be planted; but those of Box
succeed better, if planted in April or August;
which see.
New edgings shonld be planted rath(r closely,
that they may have an immediate effect; and in.

108 INDEX or warm. [1233.

repairing old ones, plant very close, that the whole
may appear the more unifbrm. Some plant these,
in either case, with the dibble, but it is better to
do this with the spade; cutting out, by the line;
a drill 0r furrow, perpendicular on the side next
the border, and to a depth suitable to the size of
the‘roots to be laid; placing' them against the
perpendicular side, and spreading out their fibres
sidewise; exposing them to the air as short time
as possible.

W

INDEX OF WORK.

 

3L4 RCH.
===

CULI NA RY VEGETABLES.

44RTICIIOKES—Plantationsofartichokesmay
be made about the middle or latter end of the
month, according to the forwardness of the season.
This plant requires a light, rich, deep soil, to pro-
duce it in perfection. The strongest crops I re-
collect having ever seen, grew in rather a mossy
earth, that had been trenched fully a yard in depth,
and had been well enriched with dung, and limed.
The plants were generally covered, before winter,
with a mirture of stable-litter and sea-Weed.
Artichokes are propagated by sets, which rise
plentifully about the old stools. The ground
should be trenched, or be dug to its full depth, if
that were even a‘ yard ; and should be well enriched

110 INDEX. or WORK. [mum

'with dung, or compost, to suit the nature of the
soil. See Section‘ II. on Soils and hIanures. Plant
in patches of three sets each, at a foot apart ;. and
four feetfrom centre to centre of each patch. Ob-
Serve to plant no sets that have not fibres, as other-

_ wise they will not succeed well; and do not plant
too deep. Crop the leaves so as to reduce the

~ sets to the length of six inches above the root.
Give a hearty watering, if the weather be dry.

A little spinage, or turnip, may be drilled in be-
tween the lines, which will come off before the
plants spread far, or interfere with them.

Let the littery part of the covering (see Novem-
ber) be removed from the rows of: old artichokes,
and dig in the smaller part of it among them;
previously'reducing the number of plants on each
stool to three. or four of the strongest ; as other:
wise they would grow too thick, and the heads,
would consequently be rendered diminutive. Old. ‘
stools should not stand above six or seven years,
as. they then begin to produce trifling heads. The
best way is to'plant a few every year, and take up
a few every year; by which mode also a succes-
sion maybe had each season, the new planted ones;
coming in, in autumn,after the others are, done.“

HAIL] CULINARY VEGETABLES. Ill

Asparagus delights in a rich, deep sand. It
maybe produced in great perfection, however, in
light, loamy earth, well enriched With. dungs, or
with compost. In any soil, sea-weed suits this
vegetable well ; and it has been produced in very
great perfection in-a sheer sand, without any other
nanure whatever. It does not thrive well. in stiff,
wet soils ; nor in any that are less than halfa yard
in depth. Of course, the land should be well'
trenched, to the depth of thirty inches, if it will
admit of trenching so deep, and should be well
broke, if anywise stiff. The manure (see Sec-
tion II. on Soils) ought also to be intimately mixed
with the soil, even to_the very bottom, and most
of it should be applied there ; because it is difficult
to get it manured afterwards, as the roots of the
plants should be as little disturbed. as possible._

It is common to raise asparagus on a seed-bed
of light earth, and to transplant it at one, or at two.
years old; either into broad. beds,with two-foot al-
leys between them, or into-single rows, thirty inches
or a yard apart; which latter isthe better method
of the two. But the best method I— know is, to
sow the seed where it is'to remain, in drills an
inch, deep, and three feet asunder; sowingurather

112 INDEX OF worm. ' [1mm

thickly, in order to insure a crop; thinning out to
five or six inches, after the plants have come up a.
few weeks. About the end of the month is a pro-
per time to sow.

A row of cauliflowers may be planted, or :1 d1 ill
of carrot, [tuinip or onion, may be sown between
the lines, without injury, for the first and second
seasons, but not longer. ‘ 'After this time, the
roots of the plants will beam to 'spread into the in-
'tervals , and must on no account be disturbed by
any other crop.

Asparagus roots wear out in eight or ten years,
and become unproductive. A little, therefore,
should be sown, and a little taken- up every two er
three years; but market gardeners and others who
force large quantities, require to sow or plant a
supply each season.

0f Planting Asparagus.

,~Tl1e method of planting is this: Stretch the line
across the ground; tread or beat the surface quite
smooth and even, upon the line, and a few inches
on each side of it; then cut with the Spade, per-
pendicularly by the line, to the depth ofsix inches;
thus forming a drill upright on one side. Place

rum] ' CULINARY VEGETABLES. ] 13

the roots akmg this drill or furrow, with their
crowns two inches under the surfitce, and at the
distance if six, crown from' crown, c, rel'ully
. spreading out the fibres, sidewise; arid covering
up, yard by yard, as you goon. It is of very
great importance, for the insurance-of success in
the planting of this vegetable, to lift the roots
carefully, and to expose them to the air as short
time as possible. “'hile planting, therefore, keep
the roots in a hamper or basket'amopg a little
light earth, covered over with a mat. One, or
at most two-year old roots are fittest. Older do
not succeed well. It is a better mt thod to plant
wart, than

I
i

in single rows, thirty inches or a yard a
in beds, as said above.

Of Dressing the Beds 01‘ Rows (f Asparagus.

Now rake oil, from the old grass, the rough
part of the Covering (see November), and point
the small or rotten part of it into the intervals of 7
the rows, or into the alleys, if in beds; in the lat-
ter case, and also if the plants be under four years
old, with the spade; but otherwise, with a fork ;
taking particular care to wound the roots as lit-
tle as possible. No plant feels a radical hurt more"

- H

1M- Ixmzx or WORK. ' [Mam

keenly than asparagus; the fibrils are very brittle,
and, if broken, do not readily shoot again. In
digging, shed a little earth on the crowns of the
‘I' plants, and smooth all with the rake.
Evans—Plant more beans for a successionel
crop, and earth up those already above ground.

See February.

' Beat—Tile end of the month is soon enough to ,
sow Red Beet, as it is apt to shoot for seed, if sown
earlier. For a full crop, the middle of April is the
fittest time. The roots only of the red sort are
used; and if the plant shoot for seed, these get:
hard, and are in a manner useless. Of the white
or green sort, the leaves only are used, in the
manner of spinage; and as the culture of it re-
sembles that of spinage in all respects, except that
it needs a little more room, I shall confine my
directions to thered kind, which requires a ma-.
nagement more particular.

It likes a deep, lightish earth, moderately rich.
It will thrive very well in rich sand : but in stili;
shallow soils, it sickens; and the roots get forked,
and canker. Do not sow with manure, except of
‘ well- reduced compost, as rank (lungs indu:e cau-

lier. It is lzcttcr if the ground have been (lunged

mta] ' CULINARY VEGETABLES. 1'15:

for the preceding crop; Trench, or sub- trench,
to the depth of eighteen inches at least, if you
would have the root in perfection; and break the
earth fine, if anywise heavy. Choose the dark red
or purple sort, with small tops. The large leaved
kinds produce poor‘spindly roots. I have mt:
with an excellent sort in the north of Scotland;
a dark red, turnip-rooted kind, with small tops. I
believe it was introduced by a market gardener at
Dundee 5 and I have been told he had'the seeds
from the master of a Dutch, or_Hamhurgh vessel.
It is now to be had at the Edinhurgh seed—shopS, ‘
and at those of several other places in the North.

After digging or trenching, roll the ground
lightly, or tread it smoothly; and sow in. drills

'thinly, an inch deep, and twelve or fifteen inches
asunder, according to the quality of the soil. Co-
ver with the hoe or thefoot, and smooth all with
the rake.

Brandi—The middleor latter end of the month
is soon enough to sow, as plants sown sooner are
apt to start, or button. Sow of the dwarf purple,
green, or of the dwarf sulphur~coluured kinds,
thinly, on a bed of light earth, in an open u;-

116 INDEX or wonx. [Minn

posure. Cover to a quarter of an inch in depth,
and rake fine.

Brussels Sprouts may also be sown any time in
the month, and in all respects as directed above
for Brocoli.

Cabbage.~—Sow more \Vhite Cabbages for crops
to succeed those sown last ‘month, and for a full
crop; likewise now sow lied Cabbagcs. Plant out
full crops of all these, and earth up the early plants
that need. See February.

CaulZ/Zuu‘e)‘.——Sow, on a rich open spot of
ground, any time after the‘rnidtlle of the month,
for a full crop; and if none were planted last
month, let that now be done without delay. See
directions in February. Those sown about the
beginning of last month, will be fit to prick out
about the latter end of this, or the first of April.
Let this be done on a bed of rich, light earth:
pricking them in at three or four inches square;
watering, and shading them from the sun, till they
have struck root some days.

Cauliflowers under hand or hell glasses should
now have a little air admitted to them for a few
hours in the middle of the day, and should be sup-
plied with moderate quantities of water. Carca-

MA 11.] L CULINARY VEGETABLES. 11'.’

fully pick oH‘ decayed leaves as. they appear ; and
admit air more freely, as the season advances.

French- Beans, for transplanting may be sown
about the middle or latter end of the month. See
directions in April.

Celt-131', for a full crop, may be sown at the end
of the month, on a bed of light earth, in an open
situation. See February for directions.

Jerusalem drtic/w/re may be planted any time
this month. It will thrive in any situation, and in
any ordinary garden soil: being a plant very har-
dy, and, once planted, not easilyeradicated. Plant
sets of the roots, which are the eatable part of this
vegetable, as in planting potatoes; in rows 21 yard
asunder, and nine or ten inches in the row. A
small quantity will serve an ordinary family, be-
ing very productive. The roots grow in tubers,
something in the manner of a yam; the stalks tall
and upright. In taste the roots resemble an arti-
choke, and hence the name. This vegetable, be-
fore the introduction of that most valuable one,
the Potato, was held in great esteem; being an
excellent winter root, of an agreeable taste.

Lee/rs, for a fail crop, may be sown about the

1

illitétllt‘ or ltllti‘l‘ end of the menth. Some set? in

3118 ~ INDEX or WORK. [MAIL

drills, where they are to remain, and thin them
out without transplanting, which is by no means
an advisable method; for, by being transplanted,
this vegetable is much improved, both in size and
flavour. Sow, therefore, in a bed of light earth,
as directed last month. The true Scotch, or F la g
Leek, is the best, '

llfuslzrooms.—About the beginning of the month
may be made beds for a supply of Mushrooms, to
last till they come in in the open ground, or even
till winter; which they will often do, if made as
directed in September; which see. There is no
rule, however, for the time of making these beds;
as it may be ~done at any day of the year, with e-
qual propriety. .

Ouimzs.——-Now sow full crops of onions, in land
of a middling texture, at the beginning of the
month; but in stiff or wet soils, towards the lat-A
ter endiof it. See February.

I’arslty may. again be sown, for successional ‘
crops; that is, of the plain and curled sorts. At
the end of the month, sow a full crop of Ham-
burgh Parsley. See January for directions.

I ’arsmjx—T his root is, very umleservedly, less

in rmute than formerly. In changing our religion,

-. av
\fiifi

mam] cunmanr VEGETABLES. 119

we have, in some measure, changed our mode of
living. There being fewer Lent-keepers in the
kingdom than in former Popish times, there are
fewer consumers of hardfish and parmips. Yet
the fish are as good as ever, and the parsnips not
worse. The truth is, there are few roots more
nutritive. In the north, they are often beat up
with potatoes, and a little butter; of which the
children are very fond, make a most hearty meal,
and thrive amazingly upon. For milch-cows,
they are excellent food, and make them give large-
ly to the pail in winter, when on hay or straw.

They will grow freely in any kind of garden
land, but are most productive in light soils. The
same manner of sowing, asdirected above for Red
Beet, will answer for Parsnip.

Peas—Sow successional and full crops of Mar-
rows, Rouncivals, Prussiaus,&c. See last month.
Also earth up the early crops that need, as there
directed.

' Potatoes may be planted about the middle or lat-
.ter end of the month, on a light, early border. If ‘
the ground he in pretty good heart, it need not be
(lunged for this crop; as they are seldom allowed
to come to full maturity; and it is only in that

120 INDEX or WORK. [MAIL

ease that potatoes exhaust the Soil. For crops
that are meant to stand till fully ripe, the ground
might to be put in good condition, either by pre«
vious, or immediate manuring. Choose, for this
plantation, some of the early kinds, as the ash-
leaved, or early dwarf, but preferring the former.
These require less room than any other I am ac-
quainted with. Fifteen inches between the lines,
and six or eight in line, is enough. Plant in drills,
three inches deep, it'the ground be anyw'ise damp
or still"; If light and dry, the dibble may be use-Ll;
but only to save time; for drilling is to be pre-
ferred to dibbling, for all seeds and roots what-
ever.

Swim/9, Scorzonrra, and S/cz'rret, are all used in
the kitchen, in autumn and winter. They are all
raised from seed, and may be sown about the end
of the month. If sown earlier, they frequently
run to seed in summer, and in that case are use-
less. The middle of April is a good medium time
to sow; which see.

Saw/37,13, for an early crop, may be sown about
the beginning of the month, and for a succes-
siomil crap, about [the end of it. There are two

serfs. green and vellsrx; am: of the former, Two

MAR] SALLADS. ' 121

Varieties, plain and curled. Sow in all respects as
directed above for broeoli.

- Shallots may yet be planted, if requisite, and the
sooner the better, as they will now begin to spring;
in which case they make but an indifferent crop.
For the manner of planting, see January.

Spinaga—Sow spinage every ten days or a fort-
night, till the first of August; of which 1 shall
say no more till that time, when I shall resume my
directions about sowing the winter crops for next
season. ' If these, as directed last month, have not
:been thinned and cleaned, let it now be done.

Turm'pr—‘A little of the early Dutch sort may
be sown on a rich, light, warm border, or other
sheltered spot, about the middle of the month;
but if sown at the latter end of the month, it may
be more depended on; as the early sown crops
are very apt to run for seed. Sow bread-east,
thinly; tread, or beat lightly, and rake fine. If
the weather be dry, give a gentle watering.

‘ SA‘LLAns.
Black .rfirncrz'can Cress may be sewn either on a
ed of light earth, broadcast, or in drills nine or

ten inches apart. It may be sown once a month

‘122 V INDEX or WORK. . [sum

or six weeks, till August; of which see further
then.

Indian Cress—The flowers are both used in
sallads, and for garnishing. It will grow freely in
almost any soil or situation. If sown in»an open
spot, it needs to be staked, in the manner of peas.
As a hedge, or to screen off any disgreeable ob-
ject, it is‘particularly well adapted, on account of
its rapid growth; and is, besides, extremely beauti-
ful. Sow any time this, and the two next months,
in drills two inches deep. It will keep flowering
till destroyed by frost.

Charm}, Cress, and blatant—Repeat the sow-
ings of these sallads every ten or fourteen days till
September, in manner as already directed.

Lettuce may be sown once a month till the first
of September, where a constant succession is re-
quired, as already directed; sowing on a north
border, or other shaded place, in the summer
months. I will not again, therefore, repeat direc-
tions for sowing till August, when the winter
crops will fall to be noticed. Plantations will al-
so require to be made from these sowings, as the
plants become {it for planting, once a month;

which will afl'ord a regular supply; those trans-

M AIL] SALLAns. l 23

planted from, always succeeding those left in the
seed-beds. The kinds are numerous, and may be
sown or planted according to fancy; but those
most to be preferred are the Green Coss, \Vhite
Coss, Hardy green, Black-seeded Coss, Brown
Dutch Cabbage, and Green Dutch ditto. The
Silesia, and some other kinds, grow very large, and
are fittest for soups ‘or stewing.

Plant in lines from nine to twelve inches apart,
and six or eight in line, according to the sorts and
quality of the soil; and observe never to plant so
deep as to bury the heart-leaves.

If the plants sown in January be fit for remo-
val, let it few be planted out in any open'situation,
about the end of the month; either by themselves,
or between the lines of new planted asparagus,
artichokes, currants, gooseberries, or the like,
where there is room.

Purslane.—This sallwd maybe sown about the
end of the month. If sooner, it is apt to be hurt
by frost, being very succulent. Sow on a light,
early border, much as you would do lettuce, but
thinner. .It may be sown either so, or in drills,
.as cresses, on any open spot, once in three weeks
or a month, throughout the summer. ‘

1% INDEX or WORK. Emma.

Radish—Sow successional crops once in ten
days, or a fortnight. till the first of September,
when those for standing the winter will be noti-
ced. Any, (wall of the kinds mentioned in Ja-
nuary may be sown, according to fancy.

Sorrel is used both as a sallad, and in the kit-
chen. There are two sorts, the common, and the
French. They may be raised from seed; but are
generally propagated by slips, or cuttings of the
root. They will grow in almost any soil or situa-
tion ; shut they like a sandy earth best. Plant in
beds at six or eight inches square, or in rows nine
inches apart, and five or six in the‘row. They
will soon cover the ground, in either case}; and it
is no easy matter to eradicate them afterwards, as

every Chip of the roots will grow.

HERBS.
Qf Pot Herbs.

Basil is a high flavoured herb, and is often wed
in soups. Sow a small spot under a wall, hedge,
or pale, about the end of the month; and cover it
\\ ith hand or bell—glasses, as it is very tender. I F
you have none of these, or a one light box, you

had better not saw for a few weeks yet. When

mun] HERBS. - ‘ 125

the plants have grown to the height of two inches,
transplant them into a border of rich light earth,
in rows nine or ten inches asunder, and four or
five in the row; or into a bed, at six or eight in-
ches square. Some sow where it is to remain;
* but it improves in strength by being transplanted.
There are two songs, the Tall, and the Bush Basil;
which are both used as pot herbs, and may he
treated alike in every respect. They must have
gentle, and occasional waterings, according to the
state of the weather.

Bomgc is used as a pot herb, and likewise for
coal-l'an/rards. Sow on alight, dry spot, any time
this month, and likewise a little in April and
May, for a succession. Wherever it ripens and
sheds seeds, it will rise again abundantly.

Caraway may be soWn, as above, either now, or
next month. A small spot will produce seeds e-
nough to serve an ordinary family.

Fr'mch—Sow on a spot of light earth, any time
in the month. It may also be propagated by slips
of the root ; and a few plants will be sufficient.

fildi'ig(;ld,—S(iw in every respect as directed a-
bove for Borage.

lilmjwmz.——Sow on a bed of light earth, any

‘

126 INDEX or wonx. [MA 1:.

time this month ; and, when fit, transplant into
rows nine or ten inches apart, and three or four
in line. If the Knotted, or Sweet lMarjoram he
wanted earlier, a little might be sown the first of
the month, and be covered with a hand or hell
glass, to bring, it forward. Pott Marjoram may
also be raised by slips of the root.

Mint, that's 15, Sweet, or Spear Mint, is easily
raised from slips of the root ;, which may either
be planted closely in a bed, or in lines six or eight
inches asunder. It will grow almost any where,
but thrives best in a moistish, light earth. A
small bed, or a few rows, are stiflicient for an or-
dinary family- If wanted early, a little might be
covered with a hand—glass or two, from the first
of Februaiy, which won (1 bring it forward.

Sage will either grow by cuttings, or by slips of
the root, with facility. This is the season for
planting slips; but the end .of July or first of
, August answers best for making plants by cuttings.
Light soil is to be preferred, though they will
grow in almost any garden earth; but in wet
ground they often perish in winter. A few slips,
either in a bed, or in lines, will be sufficient. if

it he wished to dry some for winter use, werewill

3mm] ’ HERBS. 127

be required; There are two kinds used in the
kitchen, the gretn, and the purple; the variegat-
ed kinds are reckoned Ornamental plants.

Savory” is progagated in all respects as directed

above for Marjoram. The sweet sort, if wanted
earl y, may be forwarded by handglasses, as above
hinted. Vfinter savory may also be propagated
by slips;

Tansy will grow lieer in any garden soil.
Plant by slips of the root; and very few, a dozen
at most, will be enough. Give it room to bush,
if you plant in patches; if in a row, allow twelve
or fifteen inches between the sets." _

T arr-gnu maybe raised from seed, and be trans-
planted ; or it may be raised by slips, as above ;
allowing it less room, however, . than tansy. ‘ It
wiil also grow very well by cuttings, made in
August. In wet soils, tarragon is liable to perish
in winter.

1713/1118 may also be raised from seed, or by slips.
Sow on a bedof light wrth; and when the plants
are two inches high, plant them out in rows nine
inches apart, and four or five in line; or plant
slips at these distances; or, thin out the seedlings
is six inches square, without transplanting. Any

1‘28 INDEX or WORK. , (max. ,

of these methods will answer, or edgings for
alieys may be made of the seedlings, planted at‘
the distance of two or three inches in line.

0f [Wedz'cz'nal Herbs.

This is a proper time for sowing or propagating
these; and I shall here enumerate a few of the
most useful to have about a family; classing such
as are to be raised from seed, and such as are to
be raised by slips; leaving the manner of sowing
and planting to the discretion of those more im-
mediately concerned; as also the determination
of the quantities of each; presuming that, gene-
- rally, the directions given above for the raising of
pot-herbs may suffice.

The kinds to be raised from seed are Angelica,
Burnet, Caraway, Coriander, Myrrh, and Sen: vy—
grass. ‘ ‘

Those to be raised by slips are Balm, Chamo—
mile, Hyssop, Lavender, Pennyroyal, Peppermint,
Rosemary, Rue, and \‘Vormwood..

mm] WALL AND STANDARD mums. 129

WALL, ESPALIER, AND STANDARD FRUITS.

0f Planting and Pruning Fruit Trees.

Any, or all of these may still be planted with suc-
cess ; but the sooner in the month the better,
especially if the season be forward. For directions
on this head, see January.

» These trees may also still be pruned, but the
sooner now the better; particularly apricots, cher-
ries, figs, plums, and the early kinds of pears.

Qf Heading dozen Slinted T recs.
About the middle or latter end of the month is
a proper time to cut down old, decayed, or stint-
ed .trees, that are deemed to be otherwise irre-
coverable; of which operation see also directions
in January, 9n the head, Pruning dozen Stinled

\

Trees. n

0f Heading down new planted Trees.
Maiden trees that have been planted just now,
or any time since October, should, about the lat-I
ter end of the month, be headed down ,- that is,
shortened back to a few buds, or a few inches, in
1.

' 130 INDEX or WORK. [mam

the following manner: T rees’ that are intended to
be trained borz’zom‘aléy, and have but one shoot or»
stem from the graft, should be headed down to
four or five buds, out of which, if three spring, it
is sufficient; one to be trained upright, and one on
each side, horizontally. If a plant have two shoots,_
cut away the weakest, and treat the strongest as
above. But. if the plant be furnished with three
shoots, (and such are always to be preferred for
this mode of training), head down the middle one
only, as above, if moderately strong; but to ten or-
twelve inches, if very stout; and lay in the other
two, right and left, perfectly level. If these be'
quite entire, and be ripened to the extremities,
they must not be shortened.

Plants that are intended to be trained in thefhn
manner, and have but one shoot, may be headed
down to four or five buds, if strong-,9 and to three:
or four, it weak, in orgier that they may fill the
wall or rail from the bottom. Such as have two
or three shoots may each be headed to four or
five buds, as above; out of which, if they all
spring, are to‘be reserved a proper number to
form the tree.

Maiden trees intended for standards, or buze—

MAR.) WALL AND STANDARD mums. 1313

lars, should also be headed down ; each shoot to:
from three to six buds, according to their
strengths.

New planted trees that are not maiden, but two
or three years from the bud or graft, should, ge-
nerally speaking, be well out in ,- that is, the last
year’s shoots should be shortened back to a few
buds on each, in order to cause them spring the
stronger, and produce shoots to fill the wall or
rail from the bottom. See pruning .in January,
and training, in the summer months.

Of Grzflihg flee Branches of F ruit Trees.

It often happens that fruit~trees turn out to be'
of other kinds than those they were planted. for ;;
which in some kinds, particularly pears, cannot
be discovered for many years, until they begin to
bear fruit. This is a misfortune; and it is often
with regret that the tree is rooted out, and&an- ' ‘
other planted in its place. On the branches and
stems of such, however, proper kinds may be
engrafted with great success; and towards the
latter end of the month is a very proper time to
do so. The operation, however, can only be per-
formed by a bred gardener or nurserynan, or by

1552 INDEX or wonx. [MAIL

one that has studied and practised that particular
branch of gardening. I shall not, therefore, set
down directions here; being unwilling to length-
en this volume unnecessarily. Some who are cu-
rious in this matter, engral‘t or inoculate two or
three different kinds on the same tree, which has
a singular effect.

Qf Defending F ruit—tree Blossoms.

The opening blossoms of the early kinds of
wall-trees should be defended from frost, and the
bad effects of «frosty winds, that now generally
prevail. See full directions on this head next
month.

SMALL FRUITS.

Gooseberries, Currants and Raspberries, may
still both be planted and be limited, but certainly
the sooner now the better; and likewise, that the
ground among them be put in order. See Janu-
ary and February for full directions on these se-
veral heads. ’

. Qf ’ Planting Sb‘atvberrz'es.
Strawberries may be successfully planted about

MAIL] or stmcns. 133

the middle or latter end of the month. In the
Section on Fruits, (p. 45.), I have enumerated the
kinds, and also mentioned the distances at which
they should be planted; and need only further
add here, that the soil should be put into good
heart, by being properly manured, trenched, or
deeply dug, previous to planting; and, that if the
weather be dry, the plants should have a plentiful
watering to settle the earth about their roots. I

or snnves.
Qf Planting Deciduous T recs and Shrubs.
Deciduous trees and shrubs may still be success-
fully planted, if not done last month; they should,
however, be planted as early in the month as pos-
sible, as many of the forward kinds will now be-
gin to vegetate. For directions on this head, so

the former months, and Section IV.

Qf Boeing and Dressing of the Shrubbry.
Now let the pruning and dressing of these
plants be finished, it not already done. (See Feb-
ruary). Also, the digging amongst them; hoeing,
raking, and dressing off the surface, as already

E‘S’v’r INDEX OF WORK. [MAIL

hinted; by which all shrubs and flowers are set
off to great advantage.

Evergreens, and the deciduous kinds just open-
ing into leaf, form a delightful and gratifying
sight at this season; which is heightened, and a
better effect given to the whole, by neatly dress-
ing oil" the ground among them; by new hoeing,
raking, and rolling the walks and alleys; and by
trimming their edgings, whether of grass, or of
other plants, as box, thrift, daisy, or the like.

0f making Edgings.

New edgings of these, and of other plants may
now be made, excepting of box, which succeeds
best if planted the end of April, or in August;
and old ones may be bertcd or repaired. See Fe-
bruary on that head, and April on laying box.

Qfiflrming Grass lVaZlcs, Plats, dye.

There are two methods of forming grass walks,
plats, or verges, viz. by sowing, and by laying
down turf. VV-hen this is to be done to any con-
siderable extent, it is evident that the former me-
thod is that to be chosen, on account of the la-
bour and expense attendant on the latter.

4: .n

MARJ or SIIRUBS. p 135

In preparing the ground for sowing, however,
it is necessary to be at some trouble. The natu-
ral earth should be digged, and be properly level-
led; then a stratum of sand, of three or four
inches, should he laid on, and over that, three
inches of good earth, in which to sow the seeds.
T he rich earth at top will encourage the growth

of the plants at first, while the sand below will

)revent them from growing too rank afterwards.
In this manner, the natural sward of a common is
imitated, which always produces the finest turf.
The seeds most proper for sowing are white
clover, and true perennial rye-grass; which should
be sown thickly, be raked neatly in, and then be
well rolled down. The walk or plat should be se-
veral times cut in the course of the summer, but
never in dry weather; and if any blanks appear,
they should be dusted full of seeds, and be rolled
in, that the surface may be close and uniform.
In the laying of turfs for walks, edgings, or the
like, the ground should be prepared exactly as
above; laying only one inch of earth above the
sand, instead of three, in which to bed the turf.
It should be chosen of the finest that can be got
on a common, or old, poor pasture, that the grass

136 ~ INDEX OF WORK. [MAIL

may not grow rank, but be of a fine pile. The
turfs should be cut by line, very exactly of a size,
and about two inches in thickness; and they
should be as exactly laid down, that they may
join quite close, and perfectly unite, when well
rolled or beaten.

They should have a little seed dusted into the
joints; be watered, if the weather be anywise dry;
and be well beaten, if a few; or be rolled, if ex-
tensive. This watering and rolling must be re-
peated in dry weather; and the rolling, in moist
weather, till the grass take on agrowth; after

which, treat it as other turf.
0

OF FLOWERS.
Qf Sowing Flower-Seeds.

. All kinds of hardy annual, biennial, and peren-
m'al flowers may now be sown. To those of the for-
mer classes named last month, may be added An-
tirrhinum, China Asters, Crysanthemum, French
and African Marigolds, French Honeysuckle, In-
dia Pink, Mailows, Mignionette, Sweet Scabious,
Sweet Sultan, Stock Gilliflowers, Sunflowers, tall
and dwarf, Tree Primrose, Venus’ Looking-glass,

Violets, 8L0. And to those of the latter, Campa—

mun] ELowans. 137

nulas, Carnations, Columbines, Cyclamen, Fox-
gloves, Hollyhocks, Gentians, Globularia, Marvel
of Peru, Pinks, Rockets, Veronica, and Wall-
flowers. .

I The annuals may generally be sown in patches
about the borders where they are to remain; and
the perennials, and such of the annuals as are in-
tended for transplanting, may be sown either so,
or in beds; keeping each kind distinct, covering
lightly, and watering them frequently in dry
weather. _

0f Planting Hardy Perennials.

Now also plant, if not done last montff all
kinds of hardy perennials, either in patches about
the borders, or in beds, according to their kinds,
and to fancy. See many kinds enumerated last
month; to which may be added others, according
to taste, and a wish for variety in this department.

Care of Choice Bulbs.

Let every part of the Flower Garden be put in
trim order, as hinted above for the shrubbry.
About the first of the month, let the covering of
rotten dung, or saw—dust (see November), be

138 INDEX or WORK. [MAR-

cleared from off the beds of choice bulbs; after-
wards carefully stirring the surface among them
with a small wooden spatula or wedge, and dress-
ing all smooth and neat about the alleys with the
rake. If the season be early, many of the hya-
cinths, and poly anthus narcissuses, will be far ad-
vanced, and should be supported to neat small
sticks or wires, painted green, in order to prevent
them from being injured by high winds; tying
loosely with bits of green worsted. The like
should be done with the rare sorts of tulips, jon—
quils, narcissuses, Ste. as they advance.

Those who are curious about hyacinths and tu-
lip? and wish to have them flower in perfection,
defend them from bad weather or too much wet
at this time, by placing mats or canvas covers over
them, suspended upon hoops; also, in order to
prolong the season of their beauty, thus shade
them from the mid-day sun; exposing them to
his rays in clear weather, only mornings and
evenings ;\ or in cloudy weather, the whole day.

There are diii‘erent ways of constructing this
kind of covering, or awning. Strong hoops, or
poles of ash, hazel, chesnut, or willow, are gene-

rally stretched over the beds, at the distance of

MAIL] FLOWERS. 139

thirty inches from each other; their ends being
firmly fixed into the earth. Over these, double
garden mats are spread; and their edgings are
kept down by stones or bricks, and sometimes by
heavy deals, or by cuts of small trees. But peo-
ple that are nice in this matter use oil-cloth for
defending from heavy rains, and thin canvas, or
sheeting, for screens against winds and the sun;
and instead of coarse hoops, have a row of stakes
driven into the ground on each side of the bed, at
the distance of thirty inches from one another,
'over which'they stretch neat laths; tying the
edges of the canvas to the stakes, at bottom.

Auriculas.

Auricula plants in pots should, as soon now as

‘ possible, be dressed and be cleared of dead leaves;
reducing some of the old earth from off the sur-

face, and a little way down the sides of the pc‘s,

and adding fresh earth; which will cause them to

put out new fibres about the upper part of the

roots, and greatly encourage their growth. For

the kind of earth, see August. If not provided

with an auricula frame, let them be placed in a

completely shaded situationhas they come into

140 ‘ INDEX or warm. [MAIL

flower; and let them be defended from bad wea-
ther, by suspending mats or canvas over them,
upon hoops, or otherwise, as shall seem fittest;
removing these always, in the day-time, except in
wet or boisterous weather. Let them enjoy mo-
derate showers; and if the weather be dry, re-
fresh occasionally with water.

Auriculas in a stage-frame" must be duly at—
tended to now; they must have fresh air admitted
freely every day, and be moderately, and regularly
watered. If it he wished to have them flower
strong, and in full perfection, plairts that push
more than one stem, should be divested of all but
the strongest. Some do not cut the stems, or
pinch them off, but destroy the pips, or flower-
buds, by pinching them off, as they appear. If
the tops of the stems be thus pinched off as they
appear, the end will be equally well accomplish-
ed.

Qf sowing Auricula and Polyantkus Seed.
Aui‘icula and polyanthus seed may be sown any
time in the month. If of the finer sorts of auri-

 

" See a description of this frame in April.

MAR.) mowmns. ‘ 141

culas, sow in a box of light, rich earth, covering
very lightly, and place it in a warm, sheltered
spot; attending to it with ‘water in dry weather,
and defending it from heavy rains. The reason
of sowing in a box, or boxes, is, that they maybe
shifted from place to place, as the season advan-
ces; for after they are up, they may be more free-
ly exposed to the weather. Till then, and till
they have got a few rough leaves, they must be
shaded from the full-day sun. Indeed these plants
naturally like the shade, and should never be
placed in a spot fully exposed to the sun. If. they
have the morning or evening sun only, they will
thrive the better.

These plants will also do very well if sown on
a light, rich border, at. the bottom of a wall or
hedge having a north-east, or north-west aspect. ‘
The seeds should be sown thinly, and covered
lightly; and, as the season advances, they should
be moderately supplied with water. They will be
fit to prick out in June, and be transplanted again
in August, and in that case will get established
before winter.

142 ‘4’ WNDEK or worm. [MAL

Care of Choice Plants in Pots.

Double Campanulas, Rockets, Stocks, and
VVallfl‘owers, or others, in pots, should be cleared
of wecds, decayed leaves, and other rubbish; and
should be fresh earthed at top, as above directed
fer Auriculas. This is also a very proper time to
plant out, into full~sized pots, any of those plants
that need; and the general directions given in
August, will be found to answer. I here mean,
Such as were struck from cuttings last season.

Qf making slips of Campanulns, Stocks, Rockets, and
”ha/lowers.

Slips of all these may be made about the end of
the month, and they may either be planted out on
a rich, shady border, to be afterwards transplant-
ed, or may he put singly into small pots, to be re-
potted after they have struck root._ If they are
planted in this latter way, place them in the shade;
and in either case, let them be moderatelysupplied
with water. See further of this in April.

Carnations andfinc Pinks.
This is now a proper time to plant out these,

:MAR.3 FLOWERS. ' 143

either into the open ground . or to re—pet those in-

tended for the stage. Carnations like a rich loam

of a middling texture, though they will do pretty

well in lighter soils. Pinks will do better in light

earth than carnations. But either will thrive in

sound garden earth, moderately enriched with

dungs, and mixed with a small proportion of lime,

chalk, or marl. Earth for potted plants may be

thus composed: one half strong brown loam, a.

fourth part rotten stable dung, and afourth vege-

table mould of decayed tree leaves; to which, add i
a tenth part sea or river sand, or very small gra— .
vel, with a small proportion of lime, chalk, or

merl. The whole should be properly mixed and

incorporated, previous to using ; and a stock of it-
should always be kept on hand.

Carnations and pinks, raised last season, and
potted out in August, (which see), should now be
put into their full pots. These should be ten or
twelve inches. diameter at top, and twelve or four-
teen inches deep. A handful of shivers, or clean,
roundish gravel, should belaid at bottom, in order
to drain off superabundant moisture; then fill the-
pnt nearly half with mould. Take the plant care-
fully out of the other pot, reduce the ball a little,

144: INDEX or warm. [1mm

and single out the fibres, if anywise matted. Place
it in the new pet, so as that it shall be just as deep
in the earth as before; then fill in the mould all
round, shaking the pot well, to settle it to the
roots ; and give a gentle watering.

After the whole are potted, they should be so
placed as that they can be defended from bad
weather, or too much wet, either by mats, can-
vases, or the like. In good weather, let them en-
joy the free air and full sun, and be duly refresh-
ed with water.

Those put out into the borders, or into beds,
may be planted at fifteen inches apart each way,
in order to give room for layering, if that be in-
tended; otherwise, at a foot apart. Pinks are sel-
dom layered, and may be planted at about twelve
inches apart. Plant carefully; spread out the
fibres, and place the plant just as deep into the
earth as it was before. Give a gentle watering,
which repeat, till they have taken new root...

 

~INDEX OF WORK.

 

 

 

APRI L.

;_V.__ ., ,‘

CULINARY VEGETABLES.

AII’I‘ICHOKES may still be dressed, and-new
plantations of them may be made with success.
See hlm‘cll.

A.\1107‘agltS.-—If the beds or rows of old grass
have not been digged or forked, as directed last;
month, the work should not now be delayed, as
the roots will be in a state of vegetation; in which
case, both these and the buds, or crowns, are very
easily injured.

The beginning or middle of the month is still a
proper time to sow asparagus, either for transplant«
ing, or where it is to remain for good. See full ,
directions on both these subjects in March. In;

K,

146 Jun-EX or worm. [APR,.

dry weather, let both the new plantations and
.sowings be frequently refreshed with water, and
keep them clear of weeds at all times.

Emma—Still plant more beans for a succession
to those planted last month, and earth up the crops.
already risen, according to their needs; carefully
destroying all» weeds that may appear among them.

Bad, for a full crop, may be sown about the
middle or latter end of the month. See March.
for full directions-

Brocolz’, for a full crop, may be sown about the
middle of the month. See Mmh. '

Blusscls Smears, for a full crop, may also he
sown at the same time.

Cabbage—Sow and plant successional crops of
all kinds of cabbages; and earth up or clean those
already planted, according to their needs.

Carrot—Now sow carrot for a full crop. The
large red, and orange kinds are fittest. The direc-
tions given in March, fer red beet, will answer in
every respect, whether in regard to soil, trench-
ing, or the manner of sowing. I shall here add,
however, that in order to make the seeds separate,
‘thcv should he well rubbed in the hand,ameng a.

311111.] CULINARY VEGETABLES. I’ll-7'

little dry earth or sand; sowing thinly, and as re-
gularly as possihle. *

Caulflower, for a successional crop, may be
sown any time in the month, m an open situation...
Also, on an open, rich spot, plant, fora full crop,
of those plants sown in February. Allow them
twenty, or twenty-four inches, each way between
the plants, according to the quality of the soil.
Do not plant trio deep, and give a little water to
each, if the weather bedry. Hoe and earth up
the cauliflowers planted in Februar , or the first of
last month ; and attend to those under hand or
bell-glasses, with respect to water, and airing them
as then diiected. As the season advances, they
will require to have air from morning till evening,
and to be frequently 1efreshed with water.

Prick out a parcel of the plants sown last mon‘th.

This should be invariably done with every sowing-

 

" I have observed of Parsnips, p. 119, that they are good for
milch cows in winter, making them give largely to the pail.
'l he same may be said of Carrot; and also, that the mill 1 ha: a
much less oflensive taste and smell, than when the cows me on
turnip. It is pretty generally kncivn, that carrots are eXcel-
lent food for horses, either given alone, or along with h: .1y. So
they me for fattening of stall beasts; and make them eat strap
a1 Ll 19. v indifferent hav, greedily,

\

lst~8 INDEX or worm. [Mm

of cauliflower,rbrocoli, Ste. as it greatly strength-
ens the plants, and makes them put out many
more fibres than they otherwise would. See di-
rections for this in March.

Celery, for a full crop, may be sown about the
beginning or middle of the month. Sow the so-
lid Italian kind, and on a light, open spot of
ground; watering often in dry‘weather.

French Beans may be sown on an early, light,
rich border, about the first, and on a more expos—
cd spot of ground, at the end of the month, which
will give a succession of beans. The Speckled
Dwarf are fittest for the first sowing; and the Ne-
gro, Batters‘ea, or Liver-coloured, for the last,
Sow in drills, thinly, at two feet apart, and three
inches deep; or drop in the beans, at an inch 3.-
part, with the hand, .which will make a more even-
ly crop. Cover and dress with the rake, but do
not tread.

If it be wished to have French beans the ear-
liest out of doors, a; few might have been sown
about the middle of March, on a slight dung heat,
under a hand- glass or two; which would be ready
to plant out at this time, at the bottom of a wall
01; hedge, in a row at. three inches apart, or in

AWL] ’ CULINARY VEGETABLES. 119

double rows,‘ 9. foot asunder, and three or four
inches in line.

The kind called Scarlet Runners may be sown
any time in the month, if wanted for covering a.
disagreeable object, or for forming fancy hedges,
bowers,‘ or the like; for which they are peculiar“-
ly adapted, both on account of their rapid growth,
and great beau! y. If sown in July for a crop, they
will prolong the season of French beans to the
latest; as lhey will continue hearing, if sown then,
till the frost destroy them. The lV/zifc Runners
are equally good for this latter purpose.

German Greens, for winter and next spring use,
may be sown about the latter end of the inomh,
in all respects as brocoli or savoys. The tall-
growing, light-green kind is the best, as'produc~
ing the greatest quantity of sprouts or small heads
on the stalks, in spring, when other greens begin
to be scarce. They are equally good as Brussels
sprouts. , '

Lee/cs may still be sown for a Full crop, and if
sown about the beginning or middle of the month,
will succeed very well. _ \Vater immediately, if
the weather be dry, and repeatedly.

Onions may still be successfully sown, and the

5130 ‘dNDEX or won K. [Arm

more so, on dampish soils; but the 'sooner in the
month the better; as, if the autumn prove unfa-
vourable, they may not fully ripen, and of course
would not keep well.

Let the early spring- sown crops that have risen,
be carefully cleared from weeds; also, the winter
crops. ~At the same time, now finally thin out
these to three or four inches square, as, towards
the end ‘of the month, or first of May, they will
begin to button. At this time also, pick out the
hea‘rt~buds of such as are ofi'ering to shoot for
seed; which must be repeated as thcy appear.
This will cause them to apple or button as well
as the others, and produce fully better keeping
onions. See further on .this subject next month.

l’arsm'p may stillbe sown, if not already done.
See March for directions.

Peas—Sow 'more peas for a succession, and
earth up the other crops that need; also stick those
most forward, before they begin to be beaten by
high winds, If there be no sticks for this purpose,
two lines of strong packth-read or spun-yarn may
be run along on each side of the rows, fastened to
stakes placed at the distance of six or eight feet

from one another.

am] CULLNARY VEGETABLES.‘ 151

Potatoes.—Now plant potatoes for a full crop.
The middle or latter end of the month is it proper
time. For directions, see March. The kinds are
numerous, and every gardener has his favourite.
t I shall only say for myself, that for full crops, at
present, I would prefer-the kidney, fiat~‘white, the
grizzly or reddish-clouded, and, as the best keep-
er, the purple with pink eyes. The colour of the
soil in which they may have grown, has an effect:
on the colour of the two last named .5 but they are,
in appearance, nearly as described; hoth round,
and have pink eyes. They produce large crops in
general, and should be allowed two feet between
the rows, and nine or ten inches in line.

Salsqu, Scurzonera, and S’sirrct, may all be sown
for full crops, about the middle or latter end of
the month. T rent them, in every respect, as di-
rected for red beet in hiarch ; only sow a few
inches closer- between the lines, that is, from nine
to twelve, according to the strength of the soil.

Szzzirys, for a full crop, may be sown about the
middle or latter end of the month. See .March
for directions. ‘

Sm- Cale is most successfully produced in a rich

«loop sand. It will do pretty well,_hm\‘evcr, in or- i

152 ' mom or WORK. [APR.

dinary garden soils, if miXed with a considerable
proportion of sharp or drift sand, and if they be
well manured. In stiff soils, it makes little pro-
gress; and in wet ones, it is apt to perish in win-
ter.

The manner of culture very much resembles
that of asparagus. It may either be raised from
seed, or by olisets from the roots, which rise a-
bundantly in spring, and are theparts used of this
vegetable} Sow any time in this month, thinly,
in drills thirty inches asunder, and two inches
deep; 'the plants to be ultimately thinned out to
fifteen or twenty inches in line. 01' plant in lines
at thirty inches distant from each other, and at
eight or ten inches in line; thinning out the one-
half at this time next year, if they have all surviv—
ed the winter. The seedlings, sown asabove
directed, should not be finally thinned out till a
year old, lest they sustain injury the first winter.

 

“ The sprouts of ‘Sea—cale are used, generally, in the manner
of asparagus ;-and some people think them little inferior to it,
if well blanched. Others prefer putting sea-cale in soup, to any
mher method of cooking; and in that way. if it he not com»
plqtely blanched, the defect is not so perceptible as ifserxetl up

.31; a dish by itself.

Arm] CULINARY VEGETABLES. 153

If the plants,.either sown or planted, weather the
first winter, there is little fear of them afterwards,
unless inwetsoils; but 1 have observed, that ex~
cept in sand, or sandy earth, they often go off the
first winter. The rows should be dressed every
spring, just before the plants come through the
ground, in every respect as directed for asparagus
in hiarch. * _

The plant is indigenous to most of the sea-
shores of England ; and ifit can be planted insea-
sand, or in earth ‘with a large proportion of sea-
sand in it, and he manured with a compost of stu-
ble-dung andsea— weed, it will thrive better than in
any other soil. Being covered before Winter with
stable- litter and plenty of sea- weed, in the manner
of asparagus, it will rise strongly ‘in spring; being
manured and invigorated by the salts of the latter.

The sprouts, which riseat this time, and in May,
being properly blanched, are delicious; Some
think them even as good as asparagus. They are
the more delicious, the better they are blanched 5
in order to do which in tolerable perfection, they

should be moulded up as they advance, once in
lbur or five days, with sand, or with very light,

41"; earth, until they have sprung to the length of

1.54: ‘ INDEX or WORK. [Arm

‘ eight or nine inches from the crown of the root.’
If the rows or beds were hooped over, and cover‘a
ed with mats, the sprouts would be the better
blanched, and be the sooner fit for use.

In gathering, clear aside the sand, and twist or
slip the sprouts carefully off with the hand; which
is a better methud than that of cutting, as not in-
juring the mother roots. It is the third year after
sowing, or the second after planting, before they
be fit for use. If properly treated, they will con—
tinue producing for many years.

But the blanching may be much expedited, and
more perfectly accomplished, by covering the
sp‘outs, from the "time they have sprung a few
inches, with large flower-pots turned down upon
. them; which both shades them from theilight,
and in a considerable measurejmrz's them, by the
warmth communicated through the pots in sun—
shine. The hole in the bottom of the pot should be
stopped, as the plants'wiil draw sufficient air from
under the pets for their sustenance. In this mode
of treatment, it will be unnecessary to earth up
the plants, as above directed: once earthing, pre-
vious to placing on the pots, will suffice. Some

have blanching—pots made on purpose, something

Arm] or SALLADS. 155

in the form of a bell glass, with a handle at top,
and fifteen or eighteen inches in diameter; which
are certainly the most complete, and answer best.
Large garden pols, however, answer very well,
and are generally to spare for the purpose, where
many exotic plants or flowers are cultivated.
Turnip, to succeed those sown last month. may
be sown about the middle of this; eitherin drills
an inch deep, and twelve or fifteen inches asun-
der ; or broadcast, thinly. Sow of the early
Dutch sort, and choose a rich, light, open spot
of ground; or sow among new planted artichokes,
asparagus, sea—cale, or the like. Refresh frequent-
ly with water, if the weather be dry, both this and

the former sowing.

or SALLADS.
,

I have been pretty explicit concerning these in
the last, and also in the former months; and need
not again repeat my observations on this head till
August. I shall then resume my directions on the
culture of Sallacls for winter, , and for the follow-

ing spring.

[ 156 INDEX or wonx. [Arm

. or HERBS.
If any of these, enumerated last month, be still '
unsown or unplanted, let it now be done so soon
as may be convenient. All, or any of them, will
succeed very well, if got into the ground in the
course of the month. Presuming that the direc-
tions already given on this head (see March) may ‘
suffice, both for these and for medicinal herbs, it
will not be necessary to repeat them. ‘ I shall,
however, at the proper seasons, notice the me-
thods of gathering and drying such of the kinds
as should be preserved for winter use; of which,
see July and August.

WALL, ESPALIER, AND STANDARD FRUITS.
0f Watering new-planted Fruit- Trees.

If any of these, being new planted, have not
been headed down, as directed last month, let it
now be done as soon in this as may be convenient.
They must also now be attended to, with respect
to watering; which must be repeated the oftener
as‘the season advances, and according to the heat
of the weather. \Vhat is called by the gardexb

ers mule/sing, is a very proper method of detain-

Arm] WALL AND STANDARD rtturrs. 157

ing the moisture about their roots, and in a great
measure saves, or abridges the labour of water;
ing. Let a small bason or hollowtbe made round
the stem of each tree, a foot or eighteen inches
in diameter, and two or three inches deep, ac-
cording to the extent of its roots. Fill this bason
with littery dung, to the thickness of five or six
inches; over which sprinkle a little earth, just e-
nough to keep it l‘rom being blown about. If the
dung be short, and much reduced, earth need not
be put over it. This both nourishes the young
fibres, and keeps the ground about them moist in
hot weather, if wetted freely once a—week.

Of Screening the Blossoms (f Fruit Trees.

1i‘viany of the early kinds of wall trees will now
be coming into flower; and the choice sorts, such
as Apricots, Nectarines, Peaches, and the finer
kinds of Plums, should be defended from the bad
effects of frost, and of frosty winds that prevail
at this season, particularly along the eastern coasts
of these kingdoms.

It is a common practice to screen the blossoms qf
u'all-lras, by sticking twigs of larch, or of ever-
greens, as firs, or laurels, between the branches

158 . I INDEX or WORK. , [Apni

and the wall, in such a manner as to overhang
the blossoms where thickest; and some, instead
of these, use the leaves of strong fern. These last
are certainly fitter for the purpose than the for-
mer mentioned, as being lighter, and less liable
to hurt the blossoms, when dashed by the wind
against them. But all these are objectionable, on
account’of their shading the bloom too much,
and too constantly, from the sun and light; by,
which they are rendered weak, and the fruit they
produce often drop away before arriving to any
considerable size; so that all this trouble taken
goes for nothing, as there would probably have
been as good a crop had the trees been left to
take their chance.

But a better method is, to defend these-blos-
soms from the bad cliccts of the wind, by nets ;
fixed so as to break its violence, ere it reach the
tree. The bad effects of frosts in still weather,
which may be said to fall perpendicularly, may be
guarded against by fixing a temporary ceping of
boards to the top of the wall, so as to project a
foot or eighteen inches over the trees; but these
perpendicular frosts are much less hurtful than

scourging, keen , frosty winds, thatblast every sp‘e-A.

arm] WALL AND STANDARD FRUITS. 159 ‘

cies of vegetation, to a certain degree, while they
prevail.

The most effectual guard against these are can-
vas screens of a thin fabric, which are capable of
breaking the force ofthe winds, and of admitting
a considerable degree of light, and’of sunshine;
for it is often necessary to keep them over the
trees for many days together, in a continual storm.
The cloth for this purpose should be wove very
thin, something resembling gauze, or buntine ;‘
and in order to make it lasting, and that it may
the better admit light, (which is of very great im-
portance to the welfare of the tree, and for in-
surance of a crop of fruit), it should'be oiled.-

The screens may either be fixed in frames, or
may be in single sheets, and made to answer for
one or for several trees, as they hall happen to he'
placed on the wall. In either case, they should
be placed clear of the tree; that is, at about the dis-
tance ofa foot at top, and of eighteen inches at
bottom. It placed so as that the wind can at any
time dash them against it, the consequence is ob-
vious. Ifin frames, they may be fitted to move
in the manner of a common sash, between rafters:

and may he (i uhle, as in a window, to go either.

160 INDEX or WORK. [Arm

up or down, in order to admit air. The rafters

, being made moveable, by being fixed with books
to stretchers at top and bottom, the whole could
easily be removed or be replaced, at pleasure.

Thus a frame might be made, of ten, fifteen,
twenty, or more feet in length, to answer for one
or more trees, as may be required; and if the
whole be packed and laid up in a dry loft, gerret,
or shed, each season after usingJit may last for
many years.

If the screens be made in sheets, to hoist up and
lower with pulli'es and cords, (which pullies may
be fixed to the coping, as above mentioned, or to '
a beam or stretcher, fixed at the top of the wall),
they should be suspended over small rafters or

» spars, of an inch and a half or two inches square,
according to their lengths, placed so closely as to
prevent the canvas from dashing against the trees,
as above hinted. Sheets of this kind may be of
any convenient size, and made to cover one or
more trees, as may be required. A

I have had one sheet, 200 feet in length, which
I could join or unjoin at two or three different
places, and could unclew and hoist, or lowerand
claw up, in fifteen or twenty minutes. I first'couui

APRJ WALL tum STANDARD mums. 16F

trived it to clew at the top of the wall, but after:
wards found it safer to do so at bottom 5 as a gust’
of wind had once nearly tornit away altogether:
In the clew, it was- hung by loops to the bottonr
part of the upright spars,- -which Wereplacedlat‘

four feet asunder, so as to be afewinches clear of

the grOund. These rafters were fastened, with
hooks andeyes, to the coping at top; and at bot~
tom, to stakes drivenfast into the earth, eighteen
inches clear of the wall.‘

.n

In using these screens, in either ‘of the above- '

mentionedforms, the trees are always to be ex-'
posedto the free air and light, in good weather,
through the day ; screening only-at night, and on
bad days; applying them from the time the buds
begin to open, till' the fruit be fairly set; or till

any fear of further danger, from the» effects of -'

frost, be past; ‘

Some apply screens of mats,'sewe(l together, or
bound in frames in manner as above; and they are
sometimeshung singly over the trees,‘on hooks, or

pegs. Bill: in no way are they so good, effectual, -

0r ultimately 30- c/zeap screens, as those of canvas.

Nets make very good, permanent screens, if pro~

perly constructed and put on. The ordinary way
L

162' . . mnex OF WORK. [Arm '

" of applying these,'.is to hang them over the trees, _
without any seeming consideration of why ;. as
they are generally hung over, close to the bran-
ches ; the flower-buds and spurs often sticking out
beyond the net ;- which of course might as well he
at: sea avfishing. Instead of being hung on in so
unmeaninga manner, they should be placed out, at
the distance of fifteen or eighteen inches from the
tree ;1 being kept off by hooked sticks, with their
buts placed against the wall, and at the-distance of
about a yard from each other. In 01 de1 to make
these stand firmly, the net should be fiist stretch-
ed tightly on, and fastened on all sides. By fin-
ther stretching it, to the extent of fifteen 01' eigh-
teen inches, over the hooked ends of the sticks, it
will be rendered. so firm, that no wind will dis-
place it; and the sticks will also be made quite
fast at the same timet If the nets were doubled,

. or trebled, and put on in this way, they would be

the more effectual a screen ; as the meshes or open-i

ings‘ would, in that case, be irendered very small.

I shall here mention a sort of net, made on pur-
pose for screening their brother’s wall-trees, by
two Ladies in lierthshire, which, both for inven~
tion and execution, does them great credit. They

MIL] WALL AND" STANDARD rant-rs. 163'

had read my Fruit Gardener, in which notice is.

taken of the above method of doubling the nets,

and settirg them out with sticks; on which they

at once improved, and imitated a substitute for the ‘
kind of thin canvas, mentioned above.

The net was made of coarse woollen yarn, and
wove very thick ; the meshes - not being larger
than would admit the point of the finger, even
when fully stretched out.. The propriety of this '
choice of wool, instead of flax, is * evident ; as
every mesh made thus small, was in effect render-
ed much smaller, both by the bristliness of‘ the '
material, and its constant tendency to contract.
Further, by its attracting moisture, such as cold
dews, and hoarfrost, the bloom was wonderfully
safe, and very snug indeed, through means of so '-
simple a contrivance.

At the time I saw this net, (I think 1n Ap1il or.
May 1805,) these industrious Ladies had wove as
much as covered a wall above a hundred yards in
length, and twelve feet high, and intended weaving .
three times as much,‘ for the other walls of their
brother’s garden. The net was set out With
hooked sticks, exactly as directed above; and the ‘
bloom on the differenttrees was strong, healthy, 3

164' mom or wonx. Ema.

and beautiful, though the weather at the time
was very cold and frosty.

In screening with nets of any kind, they are al-
Ways to be let remain on, night and-day, till all
danger be over; the trouble of putting them pro-
perly on being considerable; and there being no
necessity forrepeati'ng such trouble; as they Will-
in nowise injure the health of the trees, being in—
capable of shading them tic-7y much. **

Qf Ecstroying Insects on Fruit. Trees, and Buslzes,
Destroying insects that infest fruit- trees, and now
begin to make their appearance, is a very urgent
and necessary duty.
T/ze Aplzidcs, or Green Flies, are destructive in-A
sects, and very much annoy apricots, cherries,
peaches, plums, currants, gooseberries, and other;

 

‘ It may here be observed, that nets are a most useful thing
about a, garden, and may be in almost constant employment
from February till November; first, in defending early sown
small- seeds from birds : then in screening wall-trees as above :
and, lastly, in defending walland other fruits from blackbirds,
magpies, &c.

When nets are suspended for the preservation of wall-fruits,
they should be put on with sticks as above directed, and not let.
lie carelessly on the tree, in which case the birds can sit upon the
net, and feedxery comfortably.

mm] WALL mm STANDARD rum-rs. .165

fruits. They begin thé-ir’depredations very early,

often attacking the leaves while yet unexpanded,

and prey very much about the points-of the young
shoots; «which in‘ vain endeavour to make head a-
gainst these daring little enemies. They are, how-
ever, more easily» routed than many others of these
tribes; and may not only be put to flight, but may”
completely *be destroyed, by a fumigation of to-
'bacCo; which operation should: be performed, on
wall trees, in the following manner.

Suspend a wax or oil cloth over the'tree, or
over the part affected, and nail its edges as close-
ly to the wall as can be done without injury to
the tree; then fumigate with the bellows, *‘ till
the cloth be quite full of strong smoke, or even
longer, to‘fifteen or twenty minutes; choosing a
still morning or evening, and previously damping
the tree and wall with the garden engine,» if there
have not very recently been a shower. ~>It is ma~
terial that the wall'and tree be damp; as, in that.

 

* This instrument is to be had at all the seed-shops, and is a
very useful and necessary one. It costs from one to two gui-
neas, according ‘to its completeness. It ansWers for fumigat-
ing with tobacco, and several other drugs, for the destruction
of insects, either as here directed, or in hot-houses and hot-
beds.

1:166 INDEX or WORK. . [arm

- ease, the smoke will hover longer about them, than
,it otherwise would. By the time the smoke has
entirely disappeared, the insects will either be dead
or very sick, and upon removing the cloth, will be
'found lying on the ground in multitudes.

The tree should now be heartily washed with
the force-pump enginepfirst right, then left, in
order to bring down any that may be lodging a-
mong the branches or leaves. Then dig over the
ground at bottom, thus burying the dead, and de-
stroying the stunned.

If there be not the conveniency of wax or oil
cloth, as above hinted, a canvas, a large sheet, or
mats may be] used; only observe to filmigate long-
er, and to choose astill day.

Currant and gooseberry bushes may be fumigat-
ed as above, by throwing over them a sheet or
blanket, and laying a few stones or bricks on its
edges, to keep it close down. I have even fumi-
gated these, .and also wall and standard trees,
without using any cover at all; and that very ef—
~i‘ectually, by doing it early, in a still dewy morn-
ing; going from tree to tree, or from bush to
bush, and returning again and again; giving them

Abe other pull“ till the insects become quite Sick;

1mm] WALL AND STANDARD rmn'rs. 167

then dashing them off with the engine, and he.—
ving the ground about the roots of the plants dug
over, in order to bury them. Sick they most
certainly were, and, (lead or alive, I never could
discover a resurrection.

The Tin zps is a small destructive insect, hardly
Visible to the naked eye. W hen mowed ~th1 ough
-a glass, the larvae appear of a high brown, or
reddish colour. The “complete insect has four
wings, and walks with the lower part of its body
turned upwards. They are very active, mischie-
vous, and chiefly attack the extremities of tender
shoots, or young leaves. They may be destroyed
by a fumigation of tobacco, in the same manner as
the greenjly. The shoots and leaves they attack
become shrivelled, brown, and rub to dust easily
between the thumb and finger. \fiVhen any leaves
or shoots are perceived to be so, if you do not re-
cognize the greenjiy, expect the Thrips- *

 

* The Thrips are particularly troublesome to plants in hot»
houses, as vines, early strawberries, and exotic plants of tender
foliage. In hot seasons they attack wall-trees, as apricots,
peaches, &c. They are often also to be found on the fruit of
peaches, generally on the side next the wall, and are here found
to be larger, and more visible to the naked eye, than in other
situations.

- 1‘68 , Ixnnx-or WORK. [Arm

By‘this simple and expeditious method of fumi-
gation, theseinsects, and several others, may be
effectually destroyedflat anytime they‘happen to
appear. The mode recommended byithe late Mr
Forsyth, for the destruction-of rthe-Aph-is, is so
tedious and troublesome, that few attempt it. -I
have tried-it, and many other methods, buthave
found none so efl‘ectualand easy as the above.
Several .other insects .will begin to make their
appearance, and to attack the foliage of. wall» trees,
currants, ,andmgooseberries; {such as the Cater-
pillar, Grub, tRedsspider,»,and others.
The Caterpillar is prettygenerally known, and
more easily recognized,.from; its size, than the
Grub. It is from half an inch to an inch or more
in length, and of, a light, or a dark-green, accord-
ing to the colour of the leaves on which it may be
feeding. It feeds generally on, the back of the
leaves. One species of Caterpillar is certainly pro—
. duced by a fly in spring, which may be seen ho-

vering about the bushes; and immediately after,
. upon examining them, thousands of its eggs may
_.. be found deposited on the back of the leaves, all

arm] WALL axn srAannnrnnrrs. 169

"along the veins: from these the Caterpillars pro-
» ceed. ""

T he Grub, here'meant,'an‘d Which-is also of the
caterpillar kind,-1~ ismore‘subtle and mischievous.
It is from a quarter to half an inch in length; ac-
tive, small, ‘and wiry, with a‘bla‘ck head; and is
generally of a darkish‘green: colour. It always
rolls itself up, amongst a sort of down, in the leaf

. it attacks; and seldom quits it till theatender part
of the leaf be quite eaten up. It preys most on
apples, apricots, cherries, and’pears, and~is a'most
gelling annoyance wherever it comes ;4 devastating
so fast, as that I have often seen a beautiful tree,
nay even all ”the trees: on a. wall~ two hundred
yards in length, completely eaten bare of foliage
in ten or twelve days from its first appearance.
There-is this misfortune always attending it, too,
namely, that before one can be aware of its com~
ing, it has played half its mischief; for it is only
in the rolled up leax'eswe need look for it, which
are generally half destroyed, andvirrecoverable, be-
fore it be perceived. It often attacks the flowers

 

C
* A corroborating proof of this fact is stated in the following
-.§etter.
f Producing the Phalzena asperana.

170 INDEX or'wonx. Ears.

.. of fruit—trees, as well as the leaves; and is very
hurtful to roses, and other-shrubs.

In the first edition of this work, published in

1810, I stated (in a note) a method of destroy-
ing caterpillars by sea-water, as communicated by
a person, who assured me tlzat it never failed. In
that note, I mentioned my determination of hav-
ing fair trials made of the efficacy 0 "sea-water 'in
destroying the caterpillar; and accordingly I en-
gaged several friends to make trial of-it, in differ-
ent ways. The most satisfactory experiments
\were made by lVIr Edward Sang; nurscryman at
K irkcaldy; which haveled to a discovery, I think,
~of the highest importance, in the method of de-
stroying caterpillars. Having his permission, I
shall here state the process in his own words, as
communicated to me, in a letter dated the 29th
.Novcmber 1809.

“ I- was duly favoured by your letter of the 26th
instant, and now copy the result of my experi-
ments for the destruction of the caterpillar, as an
answer to it.'

“ This season, when qny apple, pear, and
cherry trees, began to expand their leaves, I dis-
-eorered my old enemies, the caterpillars of Pha-

arm] ‘WALL AND STANDARD mum's. 171

helm asperana, in great numbers. Agreeably to
your hint, I got a quantity of seawater, some of
which I mixed with two-thirds fresh water, with
which I syringed twelve apple-trees; and a like
number with amixture of equal quantities of sea
and of fresh water. This operation ’I performed
in the evening; and in about an hour afterwards,
I perceived the leaves to become quite-vamp, and
pendulous. Surprised at so sudden a change in
their appearances, I had all the trees, except four,
washed with pure water the same evening. Ne-
vertheless, they suffered ver Y much ; the outer
edges of the leaves contracted so as toform a sort
of cup, nd the extremities became brown. In
short, they decreased both in number and in size.
The four trees which ,I did notwash again with
pure water, within eight days had hardlyva leaf
left upon them; yet so tenacious of life were these
insect enemies, that theylived even when vegeta-
tion had seeminglyceased.

“‘ For these reasons, I gave over all expectation
of success in their destruction by sea-water; hav-
ing ascertained by experiments, that even the
smallest portion of it-is pernicious to vegetation,

when applied to the leaves of plants; and when

1‘72 ‘ mom; or wonK. [am

applied to the soil, itwvill'be- found to be incapa-
ble of "promoting the growth of plants in any de-
gree, excepting in so 'far as the aqueous part, di~
vested of its salt, is capable of so doing.

“‘I 'nowvhad recourse to‘ the use of tobacco
liquor, as I had it from- the tobacconist, 'which I
diluted with eight or nine'times the quantity of
purehwat'er. ‘Thishad the’power of destroying
the caterpillars whenever it‘ could get-lat theme;
but-they are naturally so impervious to water,’ that
I found only'a very small progress made in de-
straying ‘them, by four washings with the engine,
in eight days. “I then" began to use the liquor of
a-muc‘h stronger quality, which I found to answer
better ; arid I think, that if I had begun, and had
used itajust as" I got “it from the tobacconist, 'I
should have’had‘complete success, with much less
trouble. "But after I had discovered the proper
useyand' good effects! of this liquor, and had de-
termined to persevere in theapplication of it, we
unfortunately had a heavy fall of snow, (in the end
of May 1809), which lay frozen on the trees the
I'whole of the night; and knowing. that this would
strip the trees of their fruit, I discontinued any
further applications of the liquor on my fruit-trees
.for the season.

APRJ WALL AND summer) FRUITS. 173

“ By this time the gooseberry caterpillar had
attacked my bushes in almost'unmereifulummmer.
Indeed I never sawthem more terribly annoyed.
I had instant recourse to the tobacco liquor, in
its strongest state, and soon had the satisfaction
ofseeing millions of caterpillarslying upon the
ground, so sick, that few of them could make an
effort toget up again; but in order to make sure
work, Lgave my bushes aseeond washing overwith
the liquor, and they were completely cleaned.

“ By these applicationsof tobacco liquor,_my
trees and bushes acquired a freshnes of V vcrdm‘e,
quite uncommon. I consequently deem it, not
only a safe, but a wholesome menstruum with
which to wash fruit—trees of all kinds, even in the
strength of their growth, I. need hardly say, to
you, who saw.lhem, that this, season, my goose-
berries were both very good in quality, and ex-
ceedingly. abundant in quantity.

“ I beg leave to mention here, that the cater-
pillars on, my gooseherries were of a quite differ-
ent species from those ‘on my fruitotrees. The
caterpillar (or grub as you call it) which attacks
apple, cherry, and other fruit trees, is produced
from the eggs of a moth, which are dopofited up-

17'le INDEX or warm. Earn.

on, or'into the buds, in August and September.
The moth is not unlike the common house moth.
Now the gooseberry caterpillar is produced by a
fly, about the size of the common house fly, but
longer in the body,having gold-tinged wings, with
a yellow belly and thighs. The females, by in-
stinct, crawl along the backs of the leaves, and lay
their eggs upon the veins. These begin to live in
about five or six weeks, sooner or later, accord-
ing to the warmth of the weather. The leaf then
appears perforated, and its destruction increases
as the caterpillars increase in size. In short, if
not destroyed as above, or in some. other way,
they suddenly strip the whole plant of its foliage.

“ In the manufacturing of roll tobacco, there
is a liquor expressed, which is absorbed by the
brown paper in which the rolls are, when put to
the press. One pound of this paper, so saturated,
contains as much of the strength of the tobacco,
as two pounds of the leaves do. A'pound of this
. paper being put into a glazed earthen vessel,:’and
six English pints of water, nearly boiling, being
poured upon it, will make a liquor sufficiently
strong for the destruction of any caterpillar.

p“ The mode of applying it is by a small force-

a

nun]. WALL AND STANDARD Fnuirs. I75

pump, which should be firmly fixed into a wooden
trough or tub. With the one hand work the
pump, and‘apply the thumb of the other hand to
the point of the emitting pipe, which should not
be wider than a large quill. A-dexterous appli-
cation of the thumb, when the pump is worked
with as much force as possible, will divide the lif
quor into exceedingly small particles, and the
smaller the better. Six English pints of the li-
quor, judiciously applied, will serve for watering,
once over, six ordinary sized bushes. ”

T/ze Red-bpider (Acarus trim-ins) makes its ap-
pearance in hot, dry weather, and is always found
on the under sides of the leaves; generally on
roughish leaves, but not always so. It preys on
the apple, cherry, fig, peach, pear, and plum ;
seldom on the apricot. It is among the smallest
of the acari-, and is sometimes not distinguishable
without a microscope. If the back of the leaf be
viewed through one, it appears full of its webs;
and if many abound on it, the leaf appears full
of punctures, becomes discoloured and brown on
the upper surface, fades, and falls of.

This insect is more troublesome in dry seasons
than in moist ones, and is wonderfully encouraged

1'76 XNDEX or ‘WORK: [Apes .

by heat; insomuch that hot-houses of every de-u
scriptionare sadly, infested with it. Water, and-
water only, "is its bane ; andthe syringe, or the.
force-.pump,. the engine of. its destruction. It is.
not-taumere sprinkling that will do. It requires a
forcible dashing. to and fro, and that often repeat-
ed, .to be effectual. *

Theforce—pump. engine is amost useful instru-.
ment in a garden, as it can be applied to so manyfl
purposes; but to none can itxbe applied: better.
in the summer-months than frequently. washing
the leaves of wall-trees; which both keeps them ‘
clear of this and other insects, and to a very great -
i degree promotes their health, by thus refreshingL
them, and keeping them clear of dust. The even-.
ing, .afew hours before sunset, is the most proper.
time to perform this work; as if-done in the morn-
ing, the effebt soon goes off; the moisture being,

 

* Some. have recommended watering with lime-water, tar»
water, &c. for the destruction of acari, and have fancied them
effectual. - I have tried these, and many-other kinds of water,
on certaintrees, and compared the effects of pure water on.
other trees at the same time: but could never find any differ—
ence in the reduction of the enemy, though I have, on the
health and appearance of the foliage.

H u-a-

Arm] " SMALL mums. 1:7

suddenly exhaled by the heat of the sun. In the
early months, however, if the air has frosty, arid if
there be a necessity for watering the foliage, let it
be done abouteight or nine in the morning; as,
if done in the evening, the frost would take the
harder on the trees, by their being moist.»

The Coccus, or scaly insect, and C/Iermes, of
many species, are troublesome to wall and other
fruit trees. The time for ,their‘destructicn, how— ‘
ever, is not now, but in winter. See January, on
the head, Destroying Insects.

Snails and slugs are often very troublesome to
wall-fruits, especially if the walls be old and rug-;

\ged, and eagerly devour young setting apricots,
peaches, and plums. _ They should therefore be '
carefully looked for, mornings and evenings, and
be destroyed; Those that harbour about the holes
in the “all, may often be surprised in their lurking
places ‘ and others that lodge about the ground,
may be decoyed by placing bits of tile, slate, or ‘
small boards, in such a way as that they may take
shelter under them, as they return down from the
tree, in the morning: For all these are evening V
depl‘edators, and .flee the light ; but rmay be ‘

11.-

I78 ., mom or WORK. [Mm

caught by an active police,» in this and in other
ways; of which see more in July. ._

SMALL FRUITS.
Q” Watering new planted Bushes.-

Ne'w planted Currants, Gooseberries, and ‘
Raspberries, should be attended to, and Occasion-
ally be watered ‘in dry weathers If mulched, as
directed ' above for wall” trees, fewert waterings

would be requisite.-

Q‘f ’Destroying I meets.

Look" frequently over the bushes, and destroy
caterpillars as theyappear, by watering them over
head (with ra'watering' pot or syringe) with to‘
baccawater, as noticed above. Once or twice
watering in this way, however, 'will. generally be
found sufficient forthe season; but as often as
they reappear, repeat the-waterings: it is neither.
troublesome nor expensive.

Ducks are excellent vermin-pickers, whether of -
c ater pillar s, (such as are found on cabbages, Sec. ),
slugs, snails and oth'-ers , and ought to he turned
into the garden one or two days every week,
throughout the season. Never keep them longer

Aim-.1 SMALL rauxrs.‘ 1‘79 ’

in than two or three days at a time, else they tire '
of their food, and become indolent.‘ While here,
they should be offered no food; ‘but may have a -
little water set down to them, if there be no pond ‘
or stream in the garden.

They are very fond of ripe strawberries and '
gooseberries; and while they can- get at these, a
will seek little after snails or other insects: but
they are most useful before these come into season .
for them. There are some kinds of vegetables
they have a liking to, and on which they will fall,
if vermin be anywise scarce; therefore, whenever
this is perceived, they should be turned out.~
Never turn them into the garden in the time of ’
heavy rains, or in continued wet weather; as, in -
that case, and particularly if the soil be stiff, they '
patter and harden'the surface, to the greatinju‘ry
of small crops and rising seeds.

If the young shoots of entrants and gooseberries'
begin to curl up at the points, . prepare the fumi-
gating bellows; it is (In: greenfl_ , and neither ‘
ducks nor children are so equal to their destruction." -
See directions above, on the head, WaZLTreesr -

180 numx or womc. [Arm

(2)“ Planting Strawbernes.

Stmwbemes may be planted any time in this
month, with good success. -See March. Those-
planted last'month, and those now planted, if any,
should be frequently watered in dry weather. The
rows or- beds of old strawberries should also be

, cleared of weeds; and such as are in rows should
have the runners. cut away. from the stools, about
the endof the month; the operation to be'repeat-
ed in ‘M-ay, which see, with reasons given for it..

. It is not in general practice, butis a great improves

ment in the culture of this delicious fr.uit._

. 0F SHRUBS..
Qf Planting Evergreen Shrubs-

Now is the season (and in July or August) to-
plant all kinds of evergreen trees and shrubs, and.
the best time is. towards the end of the month.
But if the weather be favourable at the beginning,
that is, ‘mild andrmoist, by all means take advan-
tage of it.

I shall here assign reasons, which are not ge-
nerally understood, why the end of April and bea
‘ ginning of August are the most proper times for

Arm] seems. "1 8'1

planting evergreens—If they be planted in the
early spring months, they remain dormant, at any
rate, till this time, and their tender fibres, in that
case, frequently perish; besides, these are very lia-
ble to be injured by frost, or frosty winds, in the
act of transplanting, and are more susceptible of
such injury than the fibres of deciduous plants.
Next, they now begin to vegetate ;‘ which is fire
nick (if time for transplanting any plant, if it can
be hit; that is, just when the buds begin to swell,
and unfold the new leaves. The roots are then al-
so active; and if the plant can he suddenly lifted
and replanted, it will hardly receive a check.
The success of transplanting very much depends
on how long the plant is out of the earth. No
doubt, often on the size of the plant; and it may -‘
be noted here, that evergreens, in general, succeed
the better the smaller they be. That is to say,
plants under two feet high are to be preferred to
those of greatersize. Tall plants require to have
a stqfl‘ in their hands, on which they will lean, and
wait patiently till small ones grow over their heads.
No doubt, sometimes for a particular purpose, it
may be proper to transplant large‘plants; and if
very carefully done, and if they be well watered,

182 INDEX or wonx. [arm

- and be properly supported, they may succeed. But
a plantation of any considerable extent, will acquire
a body and figure: sooner, by being formed with
small plants, than with large.

To these reasons may be added, that we fre-

. quently have showervaeather in May, and so by
planting evergreens about the end of April, take
advantage of them ; for no artificial, is nearly e-
qual to natural watering.

The reason why the end of July or first of Au-
gust is next to be considered the best time, (some
think it preferable), for transplanting eveigreens,
is, that they then take on a second growth, and
that we generally have showery weather at that
season. Plants moved then, get thlly established
before winter, while those moved later in autumn
do not; and so often perish altogether.

On the manner ofarranging Shrubs, and the dis-
tances atawhich they should be planted, I have al-
ready been explicit. ‘See Section IV. and January.
I shall therefore only here add, that before plant-
ing, the ground should be well dug or trenched;

. and if that have been done last autumn, or in win«
ter, it should now be spaded over. Also, if places
_ have been left for the evergreens, amongdecidu-

um] sun-mas. 183

ous shrubs that have been planted some months,
such places should be stirred up to a good depth
and breadth.

If the weather prove dry, :let them be well wa-
tered; which repeat, as necessity shall direct. In
a plantation of considerable extent, it may be
thought too much to say that they should all be
mulched, as directed above for fruit trees; but for
a few, and .for the choice, high priced sorts, it.
would very probably turnout to be a saving, both.
of time and money.

Qf Planting Evergreen Hedges.

This is also a 'proper time to plant evorgrem; .
hedges, as .Holly, Evergreen \Privet, Yew, 850.
which should generally consist of plants that have
been two years nursed, and which may be plant»
ed at eight or nine inches apart, if stout and well
rooted; but if not so, plant at six or seven inches
distant. Trench or dig the ground well, break-
ing it fine; and give a moderate dunging.’ Small— '
rooted plants may be planted with the dibble; but
otherwise, his better to plant, by line, with the
spade, that-the fibres may not be crowded. If
the weather be dry, the plants should be frequent:

‘ 184a 7"1NDEX on WORK. [Apia

ly~watered, till‘they have taken fresh root, and
_ occasionally, throughout the summer.
Pyracantha, or Evergreen Thorn. answers well
‘for covering up an old wall, or the like; also,
Evergreen Privet,,Phillyrea, Holly, or Yew, for
~ thick screens, either against the wind, or for hid-
ing any disagreeable object. In either of. these
cases, it is of importance to get up the» screens as
- fast as possible; and I need only hint, that pains
should .be taken in preparing and enriching the
soil, previous to planting; mule/ling, and water-
:ing frequently in hot weather.

Of. T raining Evergreen Hedges.

Evergreen hedges may be clipt about the be-
ginning, but not later than the middle of the
month; as by that time they will begin to grow,‘

~ and it is proper that this work be previously per-
' formed. Some content themselves with clipping
but once a-year, in which case the end of July or
first of August is a better time; which see.

In trimming these, or indeed any hedge intend-
ed as a 'close- fence, they should be dressed up to
a thin edge at top, as Otherwise they are apt to
get full of gaps below; and the cause is-obvious-

APR. ]‘ ‘s‘H RUB-3. ‘ 1 8155

ly, that the under part, in square cut hedges, is
too much shaded by the upper part. Now, by
sloping the sides, every part of the hedge is freely ‘
exposed to the air, nor is any part over-dropped
by another. A hedge, intended merely as a fence,
need seldom be more than fiVe feet high, or at
most six. Screen [ledges may be allowed to run to
, any height thought necessary for that purpose;
neither is it requisite‘to trim them so often as
fl'nce hedges; once a year, or once in two years,
may be sufficient.

In the training of any hedge, it should not be
topped or shortened until it have arrived at a full
, yard in height; but it may then have a little taken
ofl' the points, in order to make it bush the better,
_ and shodt off a more regular height afterwards.
The sides, however, should be trimmed from the
second or third year of planting, that it may grow
the more complete, and close below; for therein
consists the excellence of any fence. «It should
not, in topping at any time, while in training, be
much out in; as that would make it push the
stronger at top, to the detriment of the sides.
‘Vhenje/we hedges outgrow their limits, they must
of course be cut either wholly, or partly down-g

286 INDEX or wpnx. fun.

but if they be tolerably well kept, it is seldom ne-
cessary to cut them. down more than half tothe
ground.

0f Planting Box Edgings.

This is a proper time to plant box edgings,
Where wanted; and the middle, or latter end of
the-month, is to be preferred. Indeed, they will
succeed very well' if planted about the beginning
of May. If they be rooted plants, the best way is

‘ to lay not to dibbie them 5 of which, see the last
.article iii-February. 'But I have planted many

thousandzyards of box, entirely slips, without any
roots, which have generally succeeded as well as

* rooted plants. These I have sometimes had (ii-b-

bled, and often had laid,- but could never discover
any difference in the success. The slips-should
be taken off singly, and the smaller and shorter
the better; that is, slips from twoto four inches
in length, not -cut, but gently-torn ofi‘. They

' should be laid, or dibbled in, at an inch apart; and

should frequently be watered till they have struck

«- root, and have begun to grow; after which they
:will require no further-care.

11mm] snuuzs. I87

Qf Cutting Box Edgings.

Box edgings may also be out about the begin-
ning of the month, or in the end of July; which
see. They should, however, be out once a—year,
and should be kept at two inches in height, and
two inches in breadth at bottom; being tapered
up to a thin edge at top; for nothing looks so ill
as a large, bushy edging, especially to a narrow
walk. The use of any edging is to separate the
earth from the gravel, and the larger they are al-
lowed to grow, the less effectual they become;
getting the more open below, as they advance
in height. Such also harbour snails, and other

- troublesome vermin.

Qf Haeing and Dressing of the Slzrubbry.

Let every part of the shrubbry be trimly dress-
ed off now, if it have not been done, as directed
in hiarch; which see. Shrubs of all kinds will
now begin to look gay and beautiful. This beauty
may be very much heightened, or: depreciated,
according to the state in which the ground and

.7 walks are kept. Weeds are no tissue of such

"183‘ *mmzx “OF"WORK. [um

beauty. Ground, neatlysmd recently raked, serves
as a foil to show it OK to advantage.

Care of Grass Walks, Plats, Eye.

Now regularly sweep, roll, and mow, all grass
walks, edgings, plats, Sic. once in fourteen 01
twenty days; which continue for the season ac-
cording to the state of the weather, and it will be
unnecessary for me to repeat my directions. Let
the verges and edgings be pared with the edging-
iron, and be clipped with sheep-shears or edging-
* shears, as often its-occasion may require, that they

~may always look neat, and appear dressed.

0F FLO‘VERS.
‘ Qf Sowing and Planting various Flowers.

All kinds of annual and perennial flowers, men-
‘tioned last month, may yet be sown; and many

kinds, then noticed, may be planted: The sconer

in the month, however, particularly for the latter

kinds, the better. See lists of these, on this head,
. in February and March, with the manner of sow-
» ing and plantina.

arm], FLOWERS. ‘ 18$:

Qf making Slips of Choice. Flowers.

If slips of campannlas, rockets, stocks, and
wallflowers, have not been made, as hinted at last
month, it may still successfully bedone. They
may either be planted out to nurse on a shady
border, or may be put into small pots three or
four inches in diameter, to be repotted, as directed
in May. In the former case, the ground should
be pointed over, and be broken fine; planting in
lines, acrossvfour- foot beds, "at six or eight inches.
apart, and three in line; keeping the earth just a-
little moist about them, till‘they have struck root,
and afterwards watering more freely.

Those to'be potted, should be planted in fine,
light earth, one in each pot; and should be-care-
fully watered and shaded. till they have strnelii
root. They may then be placed in a free, sunny.
situation, and must be frequently watered; per-
haps once a-day, or in two days, according to the
state of the weather. They will. be fit for repota-x
ting in five or six weeks.

0f Earlking and Dressing Plants in Pots.
The choice campanulas, rockets, stocks, and.

590' INDEX or wonx. [arm

wallflowers, in pots, that have not been dressed
and new-earthed, as directed last month, should
now have that done without loss of time. At-
tend to these, andall other flowers in pots,- in the
article water, and keep them free from weeds;
stirring the surface of the earth with the point of
a stick, at times, as it getshardened; which great-
ly encourages the plantyand letsthe water more ~
freely. down to its roots- ,

Auriculas.-

Auriculas will now be coming full into bloom,‘
and those that are not in-a stagefmme must be -
carefully attended to, in order that they may be
produced in full beauty, and that such beauty may
be prolonged. They should therefore. be shaded r
from the sun, from. eight or nine in the mornings _
till three or four. in the afternoon, in clear weae-
then; that.is,‘if the situation in which they are -
placed be not fully shaded. They should also be
\efl‘ectually‘ screened-from rains, and“ from the
wind ; . as the fine farina upon the-bloom, whiclv
adds so much to- their beauty, is easily displaced '
by either. They must be frequently, and mode-
rately supplied ~ with water; but must not~be

m] mowans. 191

watered over head, lest the above~mentioned fari~
na be washed off. .

Auriculas, placed in a properly constructed
stageji‘ame, require less trouble and attention than
in any other way. In short, they need only regu-
lar airing'and-‘watering. The sun can only hit
them in the mornings or evenings, and never be-
tween the hours of eight and four throughout the
day. ]f the frame be placed near to a wall, house,
or to trees on the west side of it, the plants can
only then have the sun in the morning ;* and if it
he placed near to trees or buildings to the east
of it, then only in the evening.

The kind of frame I here allude to, is placed on
four‘ or sixstrong posts, aceording to its/length,
fiften inches above ground. Supposing its floor
level at that'height, then the back is raised four
feet and a half, and the front, three feet three
inches higher. It is thirty inches wide within;
and nine feet, twelve feet, or fifteen feet long; so.
that the glass-sashes that cover it may be a yard
broad. . These are fixed with hinges-t0 the top of
the back part, and are moved by a strong irorr
spring in front, with notches, &c.; so as that any
quantity of air-can be admitted at pleasure, and the-

J92 ' INDEX or wonx. ‘ [Arm

sashes are, at the same time, quite firm and se—
cure. Both ends, which are close, and the front I
part, are formed of thin boarding; and the back
is .close,~or open at pleasure; being two, three, or
four thin folding doors, according to the length of
the frame. The stage consists of four shelves;
five, ‘six, seven, and eight inches broad; each
being elevated abovelthe other, two, two and a
half, three, and three and a half inches: thus
giving room for the plants in different sized pots, ,
from those of the slips, to those of the flowering .
and strongest kinds. In this manner, the surface
of the plants, when placed on the stage, slope not
as the glasses. do, but the reverse; and as the up-
permost shelf is about two feet from the glass,
none of them can behit ‘hy the sun, excepting
early and-late in the mornings and evenings, as
said above, when he shines obliquely upon them
from theeast orwest. .

. , Polyantlmses. ,

This is now the time for choosing, and planting
{slips of fine Polyanthuses. _‘ These may be plant-
ed out in a shady border of good earth ; planting
them into nursery rowssix inches apart, and three

Arm] FLOWERS. ' \ 193

or four in the? row, and moderately refreshing
then} with water; till well meted. They will be
{it to transplant in July or August, into any other
situation ; will get established before winter, ‘and
flower freely next season. The choice sorts in
pots may be treated, in all respects, in the manner
of Auriculas.

Polyanthuses that were sown in pots or boxes
last season (if any), may now be planted out in-
to nursery rows, as above mentioned; or may be
planned out at once where they are to remain for
good, asshall be thought most proper.

Care of C/zoicc Bulbs.

If the finer sorts of bulbous flowers have not-
yet been sticked, dressed, andhooped over for the ‘
purpose of screening and‘shoding them, ashinted»
at last month, it should not now be delayed by.
those who are curious about, and anxious to have
them flower in perfection. Anemones and ltu-
nuncul'uses will soon? also require the like care.
The screens of mats or canvas should. always be
put on at night; and,\as a shade from the sun, in
clear weather, from nine in the morning to three
or tour in the afternoon ;. exposing them. on still,

N,

194. mnnx or womc. [APR..

cloudy, days;- but defending the flowers, at other
times, from high winds and heavy rains.

These screens should be placed so high above
the flowers, as not to be in danger of drawing
them up weak. The stakes to which hoops or
laths are fastened (see March) should be at least
a yard high above ground. In the time of high
winds, and always in covering at night, be careful
to fasten the edges of the canvas close down to the
ground, in order to prevent a draught of wind ;
which would very much injure the blossoms, par-
ticularly of anemones and ranunculuses.

Some who are curious in these flowers are at
the‘trouble and expense of erecting an awning
over them, high enough to sit or walk under. 1f
the cover be of thin canvas or sheeting, so as to
admit the light pretty freely, the effect, in the time
of sunshine, from the brilliancy of the colours, is
uncommonly fine.

G cneral Care of Plants coming into Flower.

Let every part of the flower ground be put into
trim order; and let such plants, about the borders,
as are shooting up flower stalks that are tender,

and in danger of being broken by high winds, be

Arm] FLOWERS. 195‘

properly sticked and supported. Adjust the edg-
ings of the walls and alleys, if that have not been.
done, and clean the gravel, as directed last month.
Also, let the patches or beds of seedling flowers,
now rising, be occasionally refreshed with water,
as shall seem necessary, and let them be clearch
of weeds as they appear.

 

 

INDEX OF WORK.

 

MAY.

l1

.CULI NA RY VEG ETA B LES.

.6113 TI CI I 0K ES, for a late crop, to succeed those
of the old stools, and those planted in March, may
be planted about the beginning or middle of the
month. For the method of planting, see March.
Let them have plenty of water for a week or two,
if the weather be dry. The heads of these will
come in, late in the season, and they will conti-
nue to produce till destroyed by frost.

Asparagus will now be fitfor gathering for use.
Some twist or break of? the shoots from the
crown, instead iof cutting with the knife; which
is wrong; as thereby the roots are necessarily less
or more injured. The best method is to scrape
away an inch or two of the earth from the shoot
you would cut, and slip «the knife close down,

“193 ' 12mm on womc. [MAYU

another inch or two; taking care not to wound
the crown, nor cut any other shoot that may be
rising near to the one you would have. The heads
most fit, . are those three, or at most four, inches
long, above ground; which, by being cut as above
directed, will be, in whole, five or six inches in
length. They are often, however, cut shorter,
and often much longer; but those opened in the
head are not so marketable as the close, firm ones.

Towards the close of the season of cutting, be
careful to leave two or three shoots to each stool
or crown, in order to draw nourishment to it; as
otherwise such stool will die out; so leaving the
beds or lines full of blanks; which, owing to care-
lessness in‘this respect, is frequently found to be
the case.

The rows of asparagus, sown as directed in
h’Iareh, will require to be thinned out about the
:middle of the month. They should be thinned
out, in the first instance, to four or five inches;
and in a few weeks more, to nine or ten. Choose
a showery time for these thinnings, otherwise give
a hearty watering immediately afterwards. If the
season he very dry, these seedling rows, and any
that were planted in March, should have a good

HAY.) summer VEGETABLES. 199

watering once in three or four days, till their roots
be well established in the ground.

Beans.--Plant morebeans forsuccessional crops.
Those fittest are the \Vindsor, Toker, or Sand-
wich; but the Long pod, Cluster, or \Vhite-
blossomed, will also succeed. Clean, and earth
up such of the other crops as may stand in need.

Likewise top the early crops of Mazagans, or
Lisbons, which will now be in flower. This ‘di-

0‘ and

verts the growth into the pods just forminn,

forwards them in a very considerable degree.
The time for tanning is, just when the flowers on
the lower part of the stalk begin to fade. The
plant need not be‘much shortened; an inch or
two taken off the top is enough. Topping is not
necessary for any at the early crops; and that
only in order to‘mélte them‘ the more early.
Beet—About the middle of the month, the
most forward crops of beet will require to be
thinned.. They should not be thinned out all at
once, but by degrees. Thin,- therefore, in the first
instance, to two or three inches apart in the line;
and-inn. few weeks afterwards, to five or six;
choosing a showery time, or otherwise settling the

earth about the plants left, by a hearty watering;

QOO INDEX OF WORK. [:MAY.

previously hoeing the ground among them, and
Closing it well about their roots.

Bracoli, for a lateerop, may be sown about the
middle or letter end of themomh.

The plants sown in March, for an early crop,
will be fit to plant outtabout the middle or latter
and of the month. They should be planted in a
free open spot of ground; which-should be dung?
ed, if anywise poor; and should be sub-trenched,
or be deeply dug. Plant in lines two feet apart,
and eighteen inches in line. In planting, be carc-
1111 not to bury the hearts of =the plants. Give a
hearty watering; which repeat, if the weather be
dry, and as necessity shallrdirect.

Brussels Sprouts may both .be planted and sown,
as above directedfor :brocoli.

Cabbage, forerops to :come inflate, in autumn,
and in winter, :mayhesown at the beginning, and
also at the latter end of the month. The best
kinds for the~earliest, are also thcbest‘for the lat-
mt crops; therefore, choose the Early Dwarf, and
the Early York. /

If a succession of cabbages he wanted, more
may again be planted; and let those of the ad-

new] CULINARY VEGETABLES. 201

vancing crops thatneed, be cleaned of weeds, and
be earthed up.

The earliest eabbages will now-bebeginning to
close inathe hearts, and by being tied carefully up
wit h strands ofrmatting, or the like, the blanching
of them may be very much forwarded. VVhen-
ever the heartsbegin to feel a little hard, then is
the time lbr tying up.

Cujmicums, for pickling, may be sown'about the
first of the month, on aepot at the bottom of a
south wall or hedge ; and in order to bring them
forward, may be covered with a handor bellglass.
A spot, eighteen inches or two feet square, sown
moderately thick, will give plants enough for a.
large family. Sow in rich, light earth, and‘cover
a: quarter of an inch in depth. They will be fit
to transplant in June, which :see. Water fre-
quently; and when they have come up, give them
fresh air every day; shutting carefully down at
night, for fear of frost; as very little frost would
prove fatal to them.

Cardouus may be sownabout the middle or lat-
ter end of the month. They should be sown
where they are to remain. They like a deep, light

earth, not over rich. The leaves are large, some-

3202 INDEX or wonx. Emu”.

thing like those of artichokes; and they require a
deal of room. They are blanched in the manner
of celery, and are used in soups, and for stewing.

Prepare trenches as for celery, either longwise,
or across the ground; four feet from centre to
centre, and just as deep and wide as a single spit
will make them; laying the earth on each side.
Then point a little compost manure into the bot-
tom of the trench thus formed, and sow, or drop
the seeds thinly, in a drill an inch deep, drawn
right in the middle.

When the plants have risen a few inches, they
may be thinned out to four inches apart ; but they
are finally to be thinned out to eight or nine.
See July.

Carrot.——The early sown crop may be thinned
out, if broadcast, to three inches square; and if in
lines, to one or two in line. ' As they come ‘to be
of use, draw them out regularly, and do not thin
all at one place, as may too often be seen ; finally
thinning them out to five or six inches apart.
Never thin carrot in dry weather, but always in a
showery time; else give an immediate watering,
to settle the earth about those left. For if the
drought get down to their fibres and tap roots,

man] CULINARY VEGETABLES. 203

they stint and canker in consequence. Weed or
hoe after thinning, and previous to watering, if
that be necessary; thus closing the earth the bet-
ter about the roots of the plants.

(Jaulgflowcr, for a late, and last crop of the sea-
son, may be sown about the latter end of the
month.

Plant out more for a succession, if that be re-
quired. These may be planted on a north border,
or other shaded place. Hoe, and earth up the,
formerly planted crops, as may be necessary.

Cauliflower under hand-glasses should now be
fully exposed in the day, and also at night, if the
weather be mild; as the putting on of the glasses
is apt to bruise their leaves, and so do them more
harm than good.

Go over the early crop, and if the flower be ap-‘
pearing in any of them, break over a leaf or two
upon it, in order to shade it from the sun, and de-
fend it from too much wet; thus blanching, and
rendering them more delicate. This looking over
should be frequently repeated, both on the early
and late crops; as, ,by breaking down the. leaves
upon the flower, it is kept back from blowing

 

20% *IN'DEX or worm. [MAL

" considerably in hot weather, and at all times ren-
dered more delicate, by being shaded.

In dry weather, water all the crops freely; form-
ing a bason round the roots of the plants, in order
to retain the Water.

Celery, for a 'late crop, may be sown the first \
week of the month, in an open situation. Also,
at the beginning of the month, plant out, of the
February or March >sowings,.a parcel ‘into'nursery
beds. This is done, in order to strengthen them,
and cause them make fibrous roots, previous to
final transplantation.

Choose a spot ofric‘h, ‘lightr'eart‘h; which divide
into beds four feet broad, with alleys of a foot be-
tween them. This is supposing the beds to lie
. across a border, and to be but short; as other-
wise, perhaps a single bed ‘maybe enough. Twen-
ty or thirty square yards of earth will contain
enough for an ordinary family, to be pricked out
at a time; and observe, that aquantity of evmy
sowing should'be thus pricked out intonursery beds,
there to remain 'four or five weeks, before being
planted into the trenches for good. Point over the
ground, and lightly roll, or beat the bed smooth
with the back of the spade. Choose the stoutest

MAYJ CULINARY vase-mates. 205

of the plants in the seed-bed; prune ofl’ the-points
of their tap-roots, pull away a few of the bottom
leaves, and shorten the tops. a little with the knife.
Then prick them in, three inches square; obser.
ving not to plant so deep as to bury the heart-
leaves. Give a moderate watering, which repeat,
according to necessity; and shade with mats, from
the sun, for six or eight days.

Some, in order to save the trouble of nursing
the plants thus, sow all their celery crops thin,
alleging, that by having- plenty of room, the plants
get strength enough, without being- prieked out.
But this is a gross mistake ;. as theplants Izmir too
much in consequence, and after being plant ed; out
for good, are apt to run for seed. Now, if this,
happen with any after being prieked out, as above
directed, the trouble of putting useless plants into
the trenches is saved ; and, which is of greater im-
portance, a regular crop there is obtained ; for
plants put in to supply vacancies, never overtake
or keep pace with those first planted, and so are
next to lost. . _

Cucumbers, for pickling, may be sown about the
latter end of the month, at the bottom of a wall or
hedge, in every respect as directed above for Cap-

206 INDEX OF WORK. [MAL

sicums. They will be fit to plant out by the end
of June, or first of July; which see.

French Beans, for successional crops, may be
sown in‘ the first, and also in the'last week of the
month. Of the kinds, and manner of sowing,
see April.» '

German Greens, for crops to come in for next
spring use, may be sown about the latter end of
the month. Sow on an open spot, and" refresh
occasionally with water.

Love Apple, for soups or stewing, may be sown
about the middle or latter end of the month..
Thevplant is of the trailing kind, and needs sup-
port. Therefore, sow at the bottom of a wall or
pale, to which it may be trained ;"and in a south
aspect, as otherwisé the fruit may not come to
perfection. Any blank place on a fruit-wall, the
size of a yard square, will contain two or three
plants The seeds may be dropped in, in a line at
the bottom, and may be thinned out to three or
four plants, after they have come up a few inches
It will grow in almost any kind of soil, and needs
little other care than being trained to the wall or

pale as it advances; , and being pruned of its super-

MAYJ CULINARY VEGETABLES. 207’

fluous shoots as the fruit beginto colour, in order
to let in the sun, the better to ripen them off.
Onions—Let the early sown crops of onions be
now thinned out to five or six inches square, if
broadcast, and to three or four in line, if in drills;
at the same time, clearing them from weeds, ei-
ther with the hand, or-with a small hoe. It is
best to thin in a showery time; otherwise it'will
be necessar r to give a good watering, in order to
settle the earth about those left. The younger

crops may also be cleared from- weeds, and be

thinned out to half the above-mentioned distane-
ces; thinning out finally, when they are more
advanced; for it is proper to do this work by de-
grees, lest the crop in any measure go off by se-
vere droughts; a thing not at? all uncommon.
Now again go over the winter crop, and pick
out the heart-buds ofall thatare shooting for seed,
as directed last month; clean the ground among
them of weeds, and then let, the crop be laid over,-
that is, let the stems be bent flat down, just above
the bulb. This may be done with the hand ; but

it is more expeditiously performed by two people

with a rod, or rake-handle; each taking an end,

and walking slowly up the alleys, holding it so as

208 INDEX or- wonx. EMAY.

to strike the stems an inch or two above the-bully.
This laying over isvery serviceable to all crops of
onions, as thereby the growth of' the stem is
checked, and thrown. into the bulb. To late
crops,.in bad or wet seasons, it is particularly so 5
as, by thus checking their growth, they~ are in a
measure firccd- to-ripen.

Parsnip that was sown in IVIarch (if any) wiEl
now require to be thinned. Observe what is said:
above,_respecting Beet ;_ and, at the same time,
clear the crops from weeds. I’arsnip may yet be
successfully sown ;‘ but: the sooner. in.the month.
the better.

i Peas, for successional crops, may again be sown...
Hoe, earth up, and stick the advancing crops, ac-
cording as they stand in need. 0f sticking, or
otherwise supporting peas, see April.

P0tat0es.—Hoe the advancing crops, and draw
a little earth to their stems; but always observe
to keep their hearts clear»

Pumpkins and Gozmis.~—Some choose to have a
few of these for show, and. some make pies of
them, or eat them with-steaks or. chops They
may be raised, in every respect, as pickling cue-
cumbers, which see; only. they require a deal

MAL] CULINARY vacuums. 209

of room. They may be trained to a wall Or‘pale,_
and in that way have a fine appearance, when full
in fruit.

Salsa/y, Scorzonera, and Sle-irret, may yet all be
successfully sown; but sow as early now as con-
venient. The early crops may be thinned, as di:-
rected above for Beet; thinning in the first place
to two, and finally to four inches apart.

Savage—If any were sown, as directed in
March, they will be fit for planting out about the
middle or latter end of the month. Plant, in all
respects, as directed above for Brocoli. A few
may be sown about the end ofthe month, to come
in as late coleworts, or spring greens. See June,
and August. ,

Sea-Cale may yet either be sown or planted,
but the sooner in the month the better. For full'
directions, see April. Also, respecting the blanch-
ing of this much esteemed vegetable. *

Turmp, for successional crops, may again be
sown. See last month.

The early crops will now require to be thinned ;.

 

* The flowers of Sea~CaJe (Crambe maritima) smell quite of '
the honeycomb, and afford food for swarms of bees, ,that throng
tathem from places very distant.

O;

v

2‘10 INDEX 01¢ WORK. ‘ EMA};

but this should be done by degrees, and mostly as
wanted for. use. If the seeds have risen very
thick, however, the broadcast crops may be thin-
ned out to three or four inches square, and those
drilled, to two or three inches‘in line; afterwards
to be respectively thinned out to nine or ten inches
square, and to five or six in line, if it be intended
they shall grow to full size. Let them also be ‘
cleared from weeds ;. and observe to thin in a
showery time, if possible.

Let the rising crops be cleaned of weeds, if ne-

ssary; and let them, and the new sown ones, he

regularly watered in dry weather-

WALL, ESPALIER, AND STANDARD FRUITS.

On screening Wall 'l’rccs from the bad effects of
frostv winds; on destroying insects that infest them -,
on mulchina and watering those new planted, and
on naming and scourgz'wr all of them, with the
garden-engine, I have been fully explicit last
month. I need only here add, therefore, that
these 5 veral duties must be lol lo .1, ed up, accordinufi
to necessitv, if It be 11" .sht d to have the trees flou-
rish, and to have their f1uits produced 1n pe1fec-
tion.

MAYJ ‘wALL AND STANDARD FRUITS. 211

Qf Dislmdding, or Finger-Pruning W'all and Espa-
lier T recs.

Disbudding of several kinds of Wall and Espa-
lier Trees, is an operation now easily performed,
and which saves a deal of trouble in pruning
afterwards. What is here meant by disbudding,
is, rubbing off, with the. thumb, the buds, or new-
ly—sprung shoots, when an inch or two in length,
instead of allowing them to grow many inches,
and then being obliged to prune them OH with the
knife. The disposition of the shoots is thus bet~
ter regulated, and the strength of the tree thrown
into those necessary to be retained only, instead of
being wasted in nourishing a profusion of useless
shoots, afterwards to be destroyed. '

It must be carefully observed, however, in per-
formingfihis operation, that 'ztvood- buds only are to
be displaced ,- and this care is most necessary in
disbudding the kinds that produce wit-spurs
on the one-year old shoots, "as well as wood-buds.
' ‘hese are, apples, apricots, cherries, pears, and
plums, which should not be disbudded till the
iiyrant 5710013 have sprung two or three joints; as
they will then be easily distinguished from the
spurs, that only form a knot of two or three leaves,,

2212 INDEX on wonx. [MAL

and showno leading shoot, or symptom of push-
ing farther.

Nectarines and peaches seldom produce spurs,
and may be disbudded sooner than any of the
above-named kinds; that is, as soon as the buds
have fairly broke and shown leaf. But the buds
of any of the kinds are easily displaced by the
finger or thumb, previous to their having sprung
three inches. In thus displacing older buds, how-
ever, the bark of the year-old shoot is apt to be
ruffled or torn; which is very prejudicial to all
kinds of stone~fruits, as frequently inducing can-
ker. I

In disbudding of nectarines and peaches, every
part of- the tree is to be gone over; rubbing off
the fore-right buds chiefly, on web shoot ,-_ retaining
the uppermost, undermost, and one ortwo on
each side, according to the length of the shoot;
leaving these side ones in an alternate manner,
that they may have room to be laid in, after hav-
ing sprung a few more inches, without being
crowded. The best time for disbudding these
kinds, is after the fruit is fairly set. It often

happens that a bud will be placed between twin-
fruit, and sometimes by the side of. single fruit.

)myj WALL AND STANDARD mums. 213

In displacing the bud, be careful not also to dis-
place the fruit, in either case.
The year-old, or leading shoots of apricots, cher-

ries and plums, yet in traininor are the parts of

o,
the tree chiefly to be disbudded; which may be
done much as above directed for the shoots of
peaches: seldom, however, leaving more than the
uppermost, the undermost, and one on each side
of the shoot ; and that Only in order .to retain
enough, in case of accidents, till they be farther
advanced ; as all these will not need to be laid in.
From the established spurs of these trees, wood-
buds will often shoot; and whenever they are as~
certained to be such, by having sprung a. few
joints, they should be displaced, being cumber-
some and unprofitable.

Apples and pears, trained in the fan manner,
may be treated very much as above; always ob-
serving to leave more shoots than may ultimately
be necessary to lay in, for fear of accidents ; that
is, of trees in training. Trees that have filled the
spaces allotted to them, and are in a full-bearing
state, may be disbudded of most wood-buds that
appear, except in places too thin, or the leading
shoots of inferior branches. Wood-buds on the
old spurs are always to be displaced, as only tend-

214: INDEX or WORK. [Mun

ing to enlarge them unnecessarily. See Pruning
in January.

Apple and pear trees, trained horizontally, must
be treated in a different manner from the above.
The leading stem of trees, yet in training, is the
object of most particular care. The buds on the
last year’s shoot, shortened as directed in January,
must all be retained for [fear of accidents, except
those placed fore-right, till they have sprung a
few inches, and it be seen whether enough "will
spring, for laying in right and left, of which to
form the tree. Generally speaking, on the last
year’s shoot of theleading stem, the upmost bud,
the uppermost pair. the lundermost pair, and two
intervening pairs of buds should be retained, if
the stem push so many ; otherwise one intervening
pair. All wood~huds on the horizontal branch-
es of trees thus trained, except the leading one,
should be displaced. If any branch, however,
have accidentally lost its leader, the best looking
wood-bud, next to it, is of course to be retained,
in order to supply its place.

What has here been said, will equally apply to
trees trained against espaliers, pales, or the like:
‘And for he final thinning out of the sheets thus

directed to be V partially thinned, in order to save

Mun] WALL A‘h’l) STANDARD FRUITS. £215

trouble, as observed above, dressing them to the
wall, See. see June and July.

Of T binning Stone-Fruits.

Thinning the over-abundantly set fruit on ap-
ricot, nectarine, peach, and plum trees, is a ne-
‘cessarydut '; as many of these, in good seasons, set
more than they can nourish orbring near to perfec-
tion. This thinning,-however, must be-cautiously
performed, and by degrees. If the trees have set
their fruit very thick in particularparts only, such
parts should be moderately thinned out now, and
the other parts notyct. But if the fruit be very
thickly set all over the tree, let it be generally
thinned off to half its extent at this time; refer-
.ring the final thinning till the stoning be over;
that is, till the shells be quite hard, and the ker-
nel be formed. For most trees, especially those
anywise unhealthy, drop many of their fruit in the
time of stoning; so that the thinning had better
be performed at two or three different times ; al-
ways observing to reserve the fullest, brownish,
and best- formed fruit. For further directions re-
specting the thinning of these, and of other fruits,
see June and July. ’

{3'
P:
C)

"INDEX or worm. [MASL

SMALL'FRUITS.

'Ofmulchz'ng, and regularly watering, according
'to the state of the weather, all new planted cur-
rants, gooseberries, and raspberries, and of de-
Stroying insects and other vermin that may annoy
‘them, I have been particular already ; for all
which, II heg‘to refer the reader to last month, in

order to prevent repetitions.

0f Summer-pruning 9f Currants, Gooseberrz'es,

and Raspberries.
I

It is not a very common practice to summer-
prune cnrrants and gooseberries, but it is essential
to their welfare, and to the production of fine
fruit, if judiciously performed. It also, in a great
measure, tends to prevent the ravages of the cater-
pillar. No doubt, a moderate degree of shade is
aiding to the swelling of the fruit to a full size ;
but if, by too much, it be excluded from the sun
and air, it will be wanting in flavour. Therefore
the hearts of the plants should be regularly thin-
ned of the cross and water ishcots; and all suck-
ers rising about the roots ought to be carefully
twisted oil', as they appear. prart of the shoots

MAYJ SMALL mum‘s. 217

that rise about the stools of raspberries were twist-
ed oil", or otherwise destroyed, at this time also,
it would let in the air about them ; the shoots left
for bearing next year would increase in strength,
and the fruit now upon the plants, in size.

In gathering of green gooseberries for tarts, or
puddings, some should be pulled from each bush,
and always from the thickests parts of the bush ;
not entirely strippingthe plants most convenient-

ly situated, a thing too frequently done.

0f Summer-dressing and lVatering Strawberries.

Strawberries planted in rows, (which is a better
way than in beds), should 'now have the runners
cut from them, and be completely cleared from
weeds. By carefully divesting the plants of run-
ners, the fruit wilL be considerably increased in
size. If the plants have been planted in lines a-
bout two fcet asunder, and eighteen inches in line,
every stool should be rendered quite distinct from
another, and the earth betWeen them should be
stirred up with the hoe. This is the practice of
the best strawberry farmers about Edinburgh; who
drive a good trade by the culture of this fruit, and
are, perhaps, the most extensive growersof it to

218 INDEX or WORK. {MAS}

be found in any part of our Island; as high and
low, rich and poor, in Edinburgh, feast on straw-
berries in their season.

If the weather be very dry, strawberries in
flower should be occasionally, and those having set
their fruit, should be frequently refreshed with
water. The garden~engine should be employed
in this business, if the plantations be anywise ex-
tensive, as using the watering-pot would, in that
case, be too tedious a method. Some of the straw-
berry growers above mentioned, go over extensive
fields with the waterwart, and water them when
'the fruit are swelling off; desisting, however, as
they begin to colour, that the flavour may not be
deteriorated.

or SI-IRUBS.

Evergreens may still be successfully planted; but
the sooner now the better. So may evm'green-
hedges, and box-edgings. Observe thedirections gi-
ven last month on these heads, and on mulching,
watering, Sic. according to the state of the, wea-
ther. Also, on cleaning the ground, and walks,-
now mowing or dressing the grass edgings and‘

walks, if such there, be, once a fortnight or so,-

mun] FLOWERS. . 219 -

sweeping off the worm casts, end keeping all neat
and trim.

or FLOWERS.

Still continue to shade the— choice late bulbs,
and otherwise attend to them, as directed last
month, while in full flower. ‘

Anemones and ranunculuses will now require
the like care, and, as they come into flower, should
be properly attended to, if it be wished to have
them in full beauty and perfection. If the soil,
and also the weather be dry, they would be much
improved byhearty and repeated waterings.

A uriculas.
It has been a common practice to pot auriculas,

‘take of? the slips, 850. immediately after the Ho wer-

ing is over. The reasons given by Mr Maddock
for doing so at this time, are no doubt weighty,
viz. “ their remaining too {much in a state of in-
activity during the heats of summer; the season,
of all others, wherein the}7 are most liable to con-

’

tract a destructive disease. ’ This disease is a, loss

of verdurc; the plants becoming yellow, and sick-

’ 13'. It isgenerally induced by too much heat and

 

/

9‘20 INDEX or worm. [mm

drought, but may also proceed from improper
soil. In order to guard against, and prevent it,
the plants should, at this time, be removed to a
cool, shaded situation, till August ; when they
should be fresh potted. They may be placed on
a floor of ashes or gravel, upon rows of bricks;
and must be duly watered, according to the state
of the weather.

It has been found, that about the end of July,
or first of August, is the best time in the year for
the operation of potting, on a double account;
viz. If potted in April or the beginning of lVIay,
the plants are apt to flower in autumn, in a weak
and imperfect state; and whether so, or not, their
roots fill the pots entirely in the course of the
summer, exhaust the earth, and so are less strong
and vigorous for flowering in spring, than if pot-
ted in August. If shifted then, they get just suf-
ficiently established before winter; and by being
fresh earthed and dressed, as directed in March,
a vigorous growth, of both roots and stems, com-
mences with the season.

To this may be added, that the slips or ofi'sets,

beingallowed to remain on the plants, get strength,

and more immediately become fine plants alter

MAYJ FLOWERS. 221:

being separated from the mother, than if taken.
OH' in April or May ; and so, much trouble is
saved in rearing of them. By their remaining
on through the summer, too, the inactivity men—
tioned above, is in a great measure prevented; as
in order to nourish‘ and sustain them, the whole
plant must be in a state of active vegetation. They
must, therefore, as said above, be duly supplied
with water, both at the root and over head.
Although it is not proper to fresh pot them at
this time, yet, for the sake of the slips, if the rear-
ing of auricula plants be an object, they should be
fresh earthed at top, uhenever they begin to put
out radieles on the surface; which is. generally
about the time the flowers begin to fade. In (10-
ing this, observe the directions, for fresh earth-
ingr in March; and bank it well up to the stems-
Of the plants, that the slips may the better push
fibres into it ; at the Same time dressingofl'a few

of the bottom leaves, and any that are decayed,

Carnations and Fine Pia/cs.

Carnations and pinks, either in pots, or in the
open ground, must be duly attended to with wa-

ter in dry weather; watering those in rats gene-

 

2‘22 , INDEX or wonK. [MAYu

rally once a day, and those in the ground once in
two or, three days, according to the state of the
weather. If the surface of the earth in the pots
be anywise hard, or incrusted, let it be stirred of-
-ten, as already noticed.
If those in pots Were placed in a situation shad-
ed from the mid-day sun, (not, however, in a
north aspect), their flower~ stalks would shoot
slower, but stronger, in consequence. These
must be supported to neat sticks as they advance;
and if you would have few flowers, and large, r1-
. ther than many, and middle-sized, cut off all but
the uppermost flower-buds, as they appear. At
any rate, in order to have carnatious and pinks
flower in tolerable perfection, more than two or
three buds should not be allowed to remain on
one stalk; that is, the uppermost, and one on
each side at most.

Care cf Choice Plants in Pots.

Campanulas, Rockets, Stocks, \Vallflowers, and
other choice plants in pots, must now be duly at-
tended to» with water, as above hinted. Also, let
the flower- stalks be neatly trained to sticks as they

advance; stirring the surface of the earth frequentb

1mm] FLOWERS. 223

ly with a small stick, that it may the better admit
water.

Those kept out of doors, to be carried into the
house in succession, as. they come into flower,
should be plunged into the earth ; and if placed.
in rather a shady situation, the season of their
flowering might be prolonged.»

If slips of all or any of these were made about
the end of March or first of April, and were put
into small pots as then hinted at, they will now
require to be repotted into middle-sized pots.
Plant them in rich earth; water, and place them in.
the shade for a few days ; then plunge them into
the ground, as above. They will be fit for being
removed into full-sized pots in July or August,
and will get fully established before winter.

Illalcing Cuttings (f Choice Plants.
Cuttings of the above plants may now be made,
and will be well rooted and ready to be transplant-
ed in August. The young and recently made
shoots are to be taken for this purpose; such as
have grown to the length of three or four joints.
They may either be planted into nursery rows on

224- INDEX or womc. EMAY.

a shady border, or into small pots, as hinted at in
April, for slips of these plants ; which see.

The cuttings should be taken off with the knife,
about half an inch below the third joint ; and
should be treated in all respects as directed for
making cuttings of carnations and pinks in June,
only allowing them an inch more ofroom in plant-
ing; that is, if it be wished to have them made
in the most expeditious manner, though they will.
do very well as above.

Qf Planting Annual and: Perennial Flozcm.

:Many kinds of Annuals and Perennials, sown in
'March and the beginning of April, will be fit for
transplanting about the latter end of the month 5
and may either be planted in patches about the
borders, or in beds, as fancy shall direct. Ofthese,
the kinds improved by transplanting are, Amaran-
thuses, China Asters, Columbines, French and
African Marigolds, Foxglovcs, Hollyhocks, India
Pinks,Love-liesaa—blceding,Mallows,l\iignionette,
Prince’s Feather, Scabious, Stocks, Sunflowers,
Sweet- V17 illiams, VValltlowers, and others. They
should be planted out in a showery time, if possi‘

mun] ‘ FEOW'ERS.1 005 -

his; or should otherwise be frequently watered
till they have struck root.

Of T binning Patches of Annuals.

The patches of Annuals, sown about the bor-
ders where they are to remain without being trans-
planted, should be regularly thinned out, where
they have risen too thick; afterwards giving a
hearty watering, to settle the earth about those ~
left.

Stick, or otherwise support, all flowers that
need; destroy weeds; rake and (dress the borders V
and walks, as necessity shall point out, and as-
more fully directed in the preceding months.

 

 

 

 

INDEX ‘OF WORK.

 

JUNE.

#‘

 

CULINARY VEGETABLES.

' BEANS may yet be sown for late crops. Those
fittest for the early, are also fittest for the latest
crops. Plant, for a succession to those planted in
h’Iay, of the VVindSOr or Long pod kinds, in an
open situation, about the beginning, and of the
hIazagan or Lisbon sorts, for the last plantation,
in a more sheltered spot, at the latter end of the
month. Hoe and earth up the advancing crops-
that need; and top, if not done as directed last
month, early ones.

Beet—The crops of Beets will now require to
be finally thinned out, if not done as directed last

'month. They will henceforth require little furs“

228 INDEX or WORK. DUNE.

ther care than being kept clear of weeds; observ-
ing to pull out such as shoot for seed, as these are
useless, and considerably exhaust the ground. In
hoeing among beets at anytime, be careful not to
wound the roots, as in that case they would bleed
much, and probably canker in consequence.

Bramble—A full crop of Brocoli may now be
planted. See directions last month.. Also, for
Brussels sprouts.

Cabbage, for successional crops, may again be
planted. Hoe, and earth up the advancing Crops.
as they may require; and about the middle or lat-
ter end of the month, sow a few for coleworts,_
to be planted out about the end of July or begin-
ning of - August.

Capsicums.--Thc Capsicums, sown as directed
the beginning of May, will be ready for planting
out about the latter end of the month. Plant in
a row at the bottom of a wall, pale, or hedge; or
in rows, across a warm border of rich earth, hav-
ing a south aspect. They should be planted, in.
the first instance, at four inches in line; and when
fairly rooted, in two or th1ee weeks, lift the one-
halt alternately, and plant them out in a simil u‘

situation, at. eight 01 nine inches apmt. By this

nuanj CULINARY VEGETABLES. 229

means, a succession will be obtained with little.
trouble; and if the latest planted half should not
ripen, they will answer for pickling green; so
there will be no loss, as green ones are often
pickled, as well as ripe ones.

If they are planted in rows across a border, al—
low them fifteen or eighteen inches between, and
eight or nine inches in line. Let them be fre-
quently watered till they have struck root, and af-
terwards occasionally, in dry weather, till they
come into flower; after which time they will re-
quire no further care than being kept free from
- Weeds.

Cardoons, for a full crop, 'may be sown about,
‘the latter end of the month. For directions, see
May.

Carrot—The principal crops may now be final-
ly thinned out to seven or eight inches square, if
broadcast; and to five or six in line, if in drills. '
Carefully observe the directions given in 'May, re—
specting the manner of thinning, which are of
much importance in the cultivation of this root.

Caulgflo'wer, for successional crops, may again
be planted on a north border, or other partly shad-
ed situation. Look over the early crops, as direct-

an V
“JO INDEX or WORK. [JUNE-

ed in May, from time to time; breaking down a
leaf or two over the flowers, to shade them from
the sun; and if the weather be dry, let these, and
also the advancing crops, be largely supplied with
water. Hoe, and earth up .these last mentioned,
if needful.

About the latter end of the mo'nth, those sown
in the last week of May, for the latest crop, will
be fit to prick out; which let be done on a bed
of light earth, at three or four inches square ; wa-
tering, and carefully shading them till they have
_ struck root.

Celery—Prick out, at the beginning of the
month, a quantity of the April sowing, in the
manner as directed last month. These will be fit
to plant into the trenches, for a full crop, about
the middle of July. \Vater, and shade them for
a few days, if the weather be dry and hot.

, The plants pricked out the beginning of May
will be fit for planting into the trenches about the
middle of the month. These are not to be de-
pended on for a full crop, being apt to run for
seed; therefore, only plant a few, by way ofhav-
ing them early. As there is no difference, how-

ever, in the manner of planting, between the'can

Joann] CULINARY veeamems. 2131

ly and full crops, the situation or soil, I shall here
give full directions. ,

The situation should be free and open; the soil
dry, rather light than otherwise, deep and rich. *
If it have been manured for‘the preceding crop,
and be in pretty good heart, so much the better;
as, in that case, a little compost will now be suffi-
cient. Mark off, with the line, trenches eight feet
in width, with four feet spaces between them.
Dig a single spit out of the trenches, which lay
on the spaces, right and left. This serves, with
the earth of said spaces, to blanch with, as after-
wards to be directed. V

Now point a moderate quantity of compost
manure, or well- reduced dung, into the trenches ‘
thus formed; and plant in lines across them, at
eighteen inches apart, and three in line ; the ulti-
mate distance, however, to be six inches. But the
early crop should be planted at double thickness,
as many will shoot for seed; and it is only the
waste of a few plants, if they do not; thinning
them out, after that matter is ascertained. Later

crops, that are in no danger of shooting for seed,-

 

, * , . .
Celery does remanzzzhly well in mossy earth, if rendered
moderately dry.

a. ”Tuber: or wonK. . [mum

' may be planted at seven or eight inches in line,
and from sixteen to twenty between the lines, ac—
cording to the quality of the ground.

' Previous to planting, let the plants be trimmed;
that is, pull awe ' a few of the under leaves, prune
the lone points of any strangling fibres, and crop
the tops; th is 1eude1ing each plant about four
inches in length, above the root. Be careful not
to plant too deep; ivater frequently, and shade

' them ft om the sun for a few (hi3 s, if the weather
be hot and sultry.

It maybe necessary to observe, that if the soil
be damp, and less than eighteen inches in depth,
the plants should be planted on the surface, and

._ not in trenches, as above directed; making the
spaces five feet Wide, instead of four, in order to
afford enough of earth to blanch with.

Cucumbers—Th ose so wn as directed last mon th,

'will be fit to plant out about the latter end of this.

‘ Choose a warm situation, and rich, light earth, at
least fifteen inches in depth, which break very fine
with the spade. Plant in patches of three plants
each, at a foot plant from plant, allowing a yard
and a half square to each patch, from centre to

.»eeut1‘e. Orplant in one line, at two feet apart;

first] (summer VEGETABLES. 233

and if more than one be necessary, allow five or
six feet between the lines. Let the plants be fre-
quently supplied with water; and carefully shade
them from the sun for a few days, by turning
down garden pots upon them; which remove by
degrees, that is, first in the mornings and even-
ings, and then entirely. \

Cucumbers require frequent and plentiful wa-
terings in dry weather, and must be attended to
in this respect, as they advance in growth. See
July.

Endive, for an early crop, may be sown about
the middle of the month. It is both used in the
«kitchen, and as a sallad. Choose the green curled
for this crop, it being less apt to runfor seed than
the Batavia, or broad endive. Sow on a light,
open spot, in every respect as lettuce, thinly, and
cover lightly. Refresh with water often. The
plants will be fit to plantrout the middle of ‘ next.
month; which see.

French Bean's, for successional crops, may again
be sown. See last month, and April.

German Greens may be planted out any time in
the month, for a full crop. Plant in good land,
and in a free situation, at eighteen or twenty

’234 INDEX or WORK. [JUNE.

inches square; and water frequently till they have
taken root, if the weather be not showery. A
few might now also be sown for planting about
the end of July or first of August, to come in as
spring greens, or coleworts.

Lee/cs, for a full crop, may'now be planted.
They require a good soil, and can hardly be over
dunged. Indeed, they do little good on poor land.
If let stand till spring, they exhaust the ground
much. Plant in lines twelve or fifteen inches
asunder, and five or six in line, according to the
quality of the soil; using the dihble, and making
the holes large, by a twitch of the hand, to receive
their roots, which are fibry and bulky; previously
trim‘ming them a little, and cropping their tops.

If the ground have been newly dug, (which it
should be), they will not require water, as hardly
any plant strikes root more freely than this. If
their leaves were topped once a month throughout
the summer, they would grow to a larger size in
consequence; as such topping causes them to
push new heart leaves, and so swell the stalk the
more.

Onions—If the full crops have not been thinned
out, as directed last month, let it new be done;

JUN 3.] CULINARY VEGETABLES. 235

observing the directions then given ; allowing the
broadcast crops six or eight inches square, and
those drilled, four or five in line. Hoe or weed
all crops, according as they may need. The win-
ter onions will be fit for pulling up about the lat-
ter end of the month. Spread them on the ground
for a few days to dry, and then house them, as
directed in September 3 'which see. They will
keep better, and longer than those of any other
sowing.

Parsmfi—Now finally thin these crops, if not
yet done. See last month. Hoe, and clear all the
crops from weeds, and pull out any run plants of
the early ones, as they appear.

Peas, for a late crop, may be sown about the
latter end of the month. Choose the Charlton for
this sewing; and sow in a sheltered, and some-
what warm situation, as otherwise they may not
fill well. ‘

l’o/aloes.-—Now finally earth up these crops, and
clear them from weeds. They will require no
further attention till fit for digging up for use.

Savogs, for a full crop, may now be planted,
and a few for coleworts may also be sown. Plant,

nsdirected above for German Greens.

936 INDEX OF WORK. [-JUNE.

Turnip, for successional crops, may be again
sown. \Veed and thin the advancing crops, as
directed last month, and water frequently in dry
weather. -

SALLADS.

Presuming that‘regular successional crops of all
kinds of sallads have been sown and planted, as
directed in March, and hinted at in April, I shall
only remind the reader here, of the necessity of
watering them, as they may require, according to
the state of the weather, and of clearing them
from weeds.

WALL, ESPALIER, AND STANDARD FRUITS.
, Of T raining-in Summer Shoots.

Let the advancing shoots of Wall and Espalier
Trees thatwere singled out, as directed last month,
be trained in as they advance, that is, those ne-
cessary to be laid in for forming or extending trees
yet in training; cutting clean away such others as
were left. for fear of accidents, and which may not
now be necessary.

The shoots on the leading stem of trees {raining
horizontally, must be carefully laid in, right and

JUNE] WALL AND STANDARD mums. 237’

left; one, two, or three pairs, according to the
strength of the tree, and at the distance of eight:
or nine inches apart; carrying the uppermost
shoot, if the best, upright, for a leader. All
shoots, except the leader, on the side branches,
may now be out clean 03‘; thus throwing the
whole strength of the tree into the shoots to be
extended for its enlargement.

The shoots of nectarines and peaches may get
nerally he laid in at the distance of five or six ‘
inches from one another, allowing each a run of
from twelve to eighteen inches, according to their
strength; that is, shoots of full grown trees, in a
bearing state. Theshoots of trees, young and vi—
gorous, pushing wood to fill their spaces, will re-
quire more room each way, particularly as to
length.

In order the better to enable. the reader to lay
in the shoots of figs, and all kinds of these trees,
at their proper distances, he isrequested to turn.
to the subject of Pruning last month; also in

March, and in January. ,

Of Thinning Stone Fruits.

New again go over the apricots, nectarincs,and

238 INDEX or weak. DUNE,

peaches, and thin ofl' a few more of the fruit,
where too thick ; reserving the final thinning,
however, till the stoning be over, as directed last;
month; and of which, see more in July.

Some of the large kinds of plums may also now
be thinned, if the trees be much loaded, and the
fruit hang in clusters. I here mean the best kinds
of table pltims, that they may be rendered both
fair and large, by being moderately thinned out.

Qf Destroying Insects.

Continue to destroy insects on these trees as
they appear; that is, the green-fly, the red-spider,
snails, &c. as directed in the two last months.
Also, Frequently exercise the gardenengine upon
them, in order to refresh them, and to keep them
clean of dust.

(y Preserving Cherries from Birds.
Cherries, on walls, will now begin to ripen, and
should be netted over to preserve them from birds.
Let this be done carefully, and as directed in
April for screening wall- trees from frost; that is,
in so far as regards or: ttz‘ng t/ze netsproperly out with
hooked sticks. Cherries on espaliers, and also on

JUN 3.] sun was. 239‘

standards, may be preserved from birds, by pro-
perly suspending large nets over the trees; keep-
ing them close fastened down to the ground with
pegs, or by laying stones or bricks on their edges.

SMALL FRUITS.

If the summer-pruning of these; as directed last
month, has not yet been performed, let it be done-
without any delay, as the plants will now be run-
ning into confusion. If you have any currants,
gooseberries, or raspberries, on walls or espaliers,
let them also be gone over, be thinned moderately
of their summer shoots, and let those left be train-
ed in. Continue the waterings of newly planted
bushes of all these; and of strawberries that are
swelling of? their fruit, as directed particularly in
LMay.

or Sl-IRUBS.
Qf Trammg Clmzbmg Sin-abs. '

There is little else to be done in the shrubbry
at this time, than to keep the ground and walks
neat and clean, and attend to lately planted ever-
greens in respect to waterinoz Climbing plants,
as Honeysuckles’, the Ayrshire Rose, Trumpet-

240‘ INDEX or woman, Doses

flower, Sic. and all shrubs trained against old'
walls, out-houses, or in any other way, such as
different species of Clematis, common Passion
Flower, Pyracantha, Jasmines,’ Gum Cistus,
Green, Variegated, and hive-leaved Ivy, or the».
like, should be carefully supported, and be train—
ed as they advance in growth.

0f" Taking (317‘ Suckers from Shrubs.
:Many flowering shrubs put out strong suckers .
'from the root, such as Lilacs, Syringa, and some
of the kinds of Roses, which take greatly from the
strength of the mother plant; and which, if not
l wanted for the purpose of planting next season,
should be twisted off, or otherwise be destroyed.

Qf Making Beds of Roses.

Some who are curious in Roses, particularly
in Moss roses, like to grow them 'close in beds or
borders, instead of single detached plants; and in...
that way, it well managed, they mayjustly be call-
ed beds of roses ; as the whole surface is a clOse
and beautiful mixture of flowers and leaves. In
order to have them the more perfect in this man-
ner, the shoots must be layered close down to the

JUNE.) FLOWERS. 21-1“

ground as they advance; arranging them regularl-
ly and closely together, and allowing their points
only, with the buds‘ upon them, to stand up.
They are kept down, in the first instance, by hook-
ed pegs, in the ordinary manner of layering; but
after they» have struck root, these are removed-
In order to make them the. more characteristically
131055 roses, the surface of the earth is concealed by
a covering of moss, which is renewed occasionally.

Others grow a mixture ofmany kinds of Roses
in the above manner, and in different figures, as
ovals, circles, Sic. which they edge or fringe with
other plants, as French Honeysuckle, Scarlet
Lychnis, Sweet VVilliams; or sow an edging of
Blignionctte, Dwarf Larkspur, or Dwarf Lupines,
round them; which gives the whole a very gay
and beautiful appearance, from the variety and
:rilliancy of the colours.

or FLOWERS.
Q‘f‘Lg'fting Choice Bm’éx.

The choice kinds of bulbous flowers that are
now past flowering, should be taken up, be gradu-
ally dried,-and belaid by, till tne planting season.
These are Hyacinths, Polyanthu; Narcissuses, and

U

I»

2:12 INDEX or worm. ‘ [JUNEW

Tulips; which should be taken up every season,
soon after they have done flowering; that is, when
their leaves begin to wither and decay. Some-
take up Crocuses, Snowdrops, Jonquils, Common-
Narcissu ses, Crown Imperials, his ses, and all other
bulbs, also each season ;- and others content them-
selves with lifting these only every second or third
year, in order to single out their clustered roots,
or for the purposes of proparralion. Jonquils,
indeed, should .only be lifted every second or thi1 d
year- , of which, see October. _
In all cases, choose dry weather for lifting them
in, and dry them gradually in a shed or loft, into
i which a free circulation of air can he introduced ;
often turning them over, and spreading them thin,
to prevent them from mouldingt Likewise sepa-
rate the oll'sets from them; rub off the fibres, and
the husky outer coat or skin; and when quite dry,
and past taking further harm, pack them in boxes,
1') askets, or hampers,e each smtby themselves, and
store them in a dry aiiy place, till Octohei, “h en
V they should again be planted.
Anemones and Ranunculuses should be lifted
and be carefully dried, afte‘" they have done

flowering, and tlieii leaves begin to fade; 21an:

Jame] FLOWERS; 2th

should then be laid up in boxes or baskets till the

planting season, as above hinted.

Aurz'culas and Palganthuses.

If the choice Auriculas and Polyanthuses in
pots have not been removed to a cool and shady
situation, as directed last month, it should not be
delayed; as the summer heats will now set in,
\\ hich might prove very prejudicial to the plantsk
Form a floor of gravel or ashes for them, and
place the pots on bricks or tiles; arranging them
in nice compact order. Let them have regular
and free supplies of water, in hot, dry weather;
and if the earth about them be anywise hard or
encrusted, let the surface be stirred up to the
depth of half an inch or so, with the point of a.
ck, in order to aid its descent into the soil.
\Vater both roots and tops, without reserve, and
always in the evening. Continue this care till-
Angust, when directions cancerning them will be

resumed.

Carnations and Pinks,

Seedling Carnations and Pinks of this year’s

sowing may now be priclsed out, cither'into mar-—

244» INDEX or worm. DUNE.

sery beds, or, if wanted in that way, into small
pots, afterwards to be repotted. In either case,
plant them in rich light earth; carefully water
them; and shade them from the sun till they have
struck fresh roots. Those in beds may be pricked
in at three or four inches apart, and should again
be transplanted in August, into the beds where
they are to flower next season, as directed in
March for the layers of last year; which see.
Those pricked' into small pots will also be fit for
shifting into larger, about the end of July or first
of August. i

0f making Pipings of Carnations and Pin/ls.

About the latter end of the month, or first
of July, according to the forwa‘rdness of their
growths, is the time for making pipings or cuttings
of carnations and pinks; which is the most expedio
tious method of propagating these plants, thongh
carnations, in particular, are often propagated by
layering. These pipings or cuttings are of the
present summer’s growth, and are the upper part
of shoots, consisting of three joints. A piping is
separated at the third joint, by being gently pulled
out of its socket; and a cutting is separated by the

3'01st fitnwrns. 246

knife, about a quarter of an inch below the second
joint. They will do very well in either way ; but
the latter is the method most preferred for carna-
tions.

Having collected a quantity, their tops being
shortened with the knife or scissars, and a spot of
fine light earth, rather in a shaded situation, be-
ing prepared and smoothed, thrust them in gently,
half an inch deep, and at two inches apart. Settle
the earth to them by, a moderate watering; and
carefully shade them from the sun, from nine till
three o’clock, for ten days or a fortnight, or till
they have struck root. Repeat the waterings very
gently, once in three or four days; keeping the
surface just a little moist.

If they were covered with hand or hell glasses,
and if these were kept close down upon them till
they have struck root, the success would be great-
er, and they would be sooner fit to prick out into
nursery beds, or be put into small pots. Observe
to pick out any that die and get mouldy, as they
appear; and to stir the surface among them with
the point of a stick, whenever it gets anywise
hard, or encrusted.

946 ' INDEX OF worm. Emu.

Qf layering Carnations.

Layering of these flowers being a more trouble-
some .though not a more successful method of
propagation, and being also now seldom practised,
it is unnecessary to point out the minutiae of per-
formance. It<may be enough to say, generally,
that the shoots to be layered should be singled out
all round the plant or stool ; the leaves trimmed
and shortened; a little fresh earth spread on the
surface; the shoots slit lengthwise, from the mid-
dlejoint, up to, and quite through that next above
it; then hooked down with small pegs, and co-
vered with a little of the earth. Their points be?
ing inclined upwards, by previously making a
small hollow under each, sufficiently opens ‘the

slit, immediately above which, at the first joint,
‘ the new roots spring. The shoot should just be
covered with the earth, but not deep. Give a
gentle watering, which frequently repeat; and in
*five or six weeks the layers will be fit to be parted
from the ‘motlger plant. They must then be taken
up with care, and with as good roots as possible,
and may either be planted into nursery beds, or
into small pots.

sum] "FLOWERS. 9247

Care of Choice Carnations.

Continue to take proper care of the choice ear-
nations and pinks that are coming into flower, by
watering them, and training them as they may re~
quire. See general directions on this head last
menth, and further of these, in July.

0f Planting calling Flowers. _

Now transplant, if not done last month, the
seedling annual and perennial flowers there enu-
merated, either in patches, or into beds by them-
selves, as also there noticed. Likewise thin out
the patches of annuals, sown where they are to
flower, if still too thick; and stick, or otherwise
support the flowerstalks of all that may need; .re-
peating the necessary waterings; hoeing and rak-
ing the borders and walks, as may be requisite.

The stocks, rockets, wallflewers, Ste. intended
for the house, should now be planted from the
seed-beds, into pots of four inches diameter, filleil
with rich, lightish earth. Immediately water
them, and place them in the shade for a few days
till they have taken fresh root; then plunge them

{into the ground, in an open situation, and water

i248 INDEX OF wemc. ‘EJUNE.

11mm occasionally, as they may require. They
will be fit to be shifted into full-sized pots in

August, and will get well established before win-
401'.

 

 

C'ULI NA RY VEC ETABEES.

.BROCOLI, for a late spring crop, may be plants
ed about the middle or latter end of the month. ‘
See directions in May. Hoe, and earth up the
early, and advancing crops, planted in May and
June, according as they may need.

'ura'oans that were sown in May, should now
be finally thinned out to eight or nine inches apart
in the row; then hoe the ground among them,
whether clean or foul of weeds, in order to stir
the surface; and put a little earth to their stems,
from that thrown out in forming [the trenches.

ever put too much at a time, and be sure not to

2750 INDEX or WORK. [JUL33

bury their heart leaves ; observing always to earth
up when the earth is in a dry state. Repeat this
earthing every two or three weeks throughout the
summer; for if the plants are allowed to grow
long between the earthings, it is somewhat diffi-
cult to do it well, on account of their rapid growth.

Those sown in June, for a full crop, may be
finally thinned out about the latter end of the
month 5 observing to earth them up, as above di-
rected, as they advance.

Cardoons, for a late crop, may yet be sown.
Choose as dryia spot as possible; and see direc-
tions for sowing, in May.

C(mlg'flowers that were sown, as directed in May‘,
for a late crop, and prickcd out the end of June,
will, about the latter end of the month, be fit for
planting out for good. Plant in an open expo-
sure, and only at eighteen or twenty inches square,
as these will not grow to so large a size as the
former crops of the season. Let them be planted
on good land, however, ,that they may be got in
as great perfection as possible, and plenty of them ;
as, by being properly stored, as wiil be directed in
October, excellent cauliflower may be had at

new] CULINARY VEGETABLES. 25!

Christmas, and even much later. * If the wea-
ther be dry, let them be duly watered ; and other-
wise attend to them, as directed for the other
crops of cauliflower, in respect to hoeing and
earthing. '

()t’lfly, for a full crop, may be planted about the
middle of the month. For full directions, see.
June. The early crop, planted at double thick‘
ness, may now be thinned out, as there hinted
at.

Coleworts.-About the latter end of the month,
plant ont‘the cahbages, German greens, or savoys,
sown for this purpose, as directed in June. Being
intended to come in as small winter and spring
greens, they need not be planted on rich soil, nor

 

5* I am writing this on the 5d March (1809.) I dined in com- .
pany with some friends yesterday, one of whom assured me that
he had just seen half a dozen caulillowers of a good size, that
is, from four to six inches diameter, quite close and fair. These
were kept over winter, but he couldnot learn by what means.
I have formerly kept cauliflowers, for a series of years together,
in perfect good condition, till February, which might have been
kept till now, (March), had it been required, as a matter of 1 cu-
riosity. I used to plant a large quantity for this purpose in
July, lift them in October, or before they were affected by frost,
and song]; them into the borders of my peach and grape houses:
where they were carefully defended from much wet or frost,
and were divested of dead leaves as they appeared.

252 'INDEX OF woax. ‘ [JULY.

be allowed much room. Nine or ten inches square
is sufficient; or even seven or eight, in poor land.
Cucumbers, planted as directed last month, will
now be putting out vines; and these must be
spread out and be trained as they advance. After
they have shot a few joints, they may be shorten-
ed or topped, in order to make them push fruit-
branches; which must be trained as they shoot,
in a regular manner, at the distance of eight or
nine inches apart ; shortening one now and then,
alternately, as they advance, that enough may be
obtained to fill the whole space allowed the plants.
But never shorten for any other purpose; as the
more they are pruned, if the soil be good, the
more they will grow; and so occasion a useless
‘profusion of shoots. Thin occasionally, and so
as to keep the runners or vines at the above-men-
tioned distance from each other ; but never prune
much at a time, as the plants, by bleeding, might
be weakened. If the sort, or sorts, be good, the
fruit will begin to set in abundance, and the plants
will grow the less to vines. In order to prevent the
bad effects of the wind, if the situation be much
exposed to it, the runners should be fixed down
with hooked pegs, as they advance. Indeed this

x

.70 LE] CULINARY VEGETABLES; 253

should be done at any rate, as they strike roots
from the joints pegged down, which greatly invi--
‘ gorate the plants.

Let them be regularly and plentifully watered
in dry weather, else they will do little good. Few
plants require more water than the cucumber,
especially when loaded with fruit; and if it be
withheld, these will fall greatly 05', both in size
and shape.

The green fly is often troublesome to cucum-
bers, and generally attacks the points of the young
shoots. I have already said, that a fumigation of

. tobacco is the best and most eH‘ectual remedy I
know for plants troubled with this insect, and
have given full directions for its destruction on
currants and gooseberries, in April; which, with
a small variation, will answer here. If repeated
fumigation, in a still morning or eyening, does not
extirpate them, cover closely with a large sheet or
oil- cloth, and fumigate for fifteen or twenty mi-
nutes after it is Iquite full of smoke. But if taken
in time, the former method will generally prove
effectual.

Endive, for a full crop, may be sown about the
middle 0. the month. Any, 03‘ all of :l.c kinds

2543' INDEX or qux. ~ [Jun

may be sown, according to fancy; but the green
and white curled are the best, and of these the
former is the most hardy. That sown, as direct-
ed in June, will be fit to plant out about the mid-
dle of the month. Choose an open spot of light
earth, moderately rich, which dig a full spit deep.
Then form shallow trenches, either with the
spade, or make large drills with the hoe, twelve or
fifteen inches asunder, in which plant at nine or
ten inches apart, and immediately give a moderate
watering, which occasionally repeat, till the plants
have taken new root. Before planting, let the
zap-roots be a little shortened, and also the points
of the leaves. ‘

The reason of planting in deep drills, instead of
planting on the plain surface, as often done, is,
that the leaves may be blanched with little trou-
ble. These are frequently blanched, by being tied
up with strands of matting, in the manner of ear-'
ly cabbages; but if carefully earthed up, the curl-
ed kinds may be better blanched so; as, in tying,
they do not come together in the hearts well. The
Batavia sorts do better by tying up, on account of
their more upright manner of growth, than the
curled kinds 5 but if planted in drills also, the

JL'LYJ CULINARY VEGETABLES. 255

blanching may be l'acilitated, and may be perform-
ed partly both ways.

Endive may also be blanched by setting up com-
mon roofing tiles, in a triangular form, over the
plants; or, in lieu of these, large slates. But a
less troublesome method is, to place thin boards,
nine or ten inches broad, and ten or more feet in
length, over the rows, in a triangular manner ;. the
earth being laid up against their sides, so as to
keep them steady. A few boards would answer
the purpose, as they might be shifted, successive-
ly, on the same, or on different plantations of en-
dive. By garden pots, as directed for sea-cale in»
April, this vegetable may also be blanched with
little trouble.

Franc/2 Beans, for a late crop, may now be sown..
The proper kinds are the Scarlet and \Vhite Run-
ners, and they will continue to bear till destroyed
by frost. Of the manner of sowing these kinds,
see April.

Sllebts.—The early crop of shallots Will be fit
for lifting about. the middle of the month. This
is best known by the leaves; and whenever they
begin to fall down, and turn yellow, it is time to,
take up the roots. They should be lite-d in a dry:

£56 INDEX or worm. from.

day, and carried to an open shed, or loft; or at
least be spread out, not in the full sun ; as they
are apt to shrivel if dried too suddenly. If they
be anywise damp, part the heads to prevent them
from moulding; and when sufficiently dried, hang
them up in nets, in a cool, airy place.

Turnip, fer thewinter crop, may be sown the last
week in the month, or first week of August. The
proper kind for this sowing is the Dutch Yellow,
which should be sown on good land, and in a free,
open situation. This is superior to any other
kind for winter use, as no frost hurts it. It is, at
the same time, the sweetest and most nutritive of
any. They may either be sown broadcast, thinly,
or in drills, as directed for the early crops in April.
Hoe and thin the advancing crops that need, as.
directed in May; also water them, according to.
the state of the weather.

POT-HERBS.
0f Gathering Herbs to Dry.

Many of these will now be ready for gathering
to dry for winter use. The most proper time is
just when they are full in flower, being then in
theirutmost strength and vigour. Such as grow

JULYJ HERBS. 25'7“

in spikes, and continue growing and flowering,
should he cut when the flowers on the under part:
of the spike begin to decay. They sh uld be grac
dually dried in the shade, being spread thin on
clean gravel, ‘or on mats, and frequently turned
over. If there he the conveniency of an open
shed, or airy loft, so much the better for the pur-‘
pose, as they should not, in winning, be exposed
to much wet, which would take very much from
their strength and flavour. \Vhen they are dried
so far as to he past danger of fermenting, they
may be tied up in small bunches of a handful each,
and may then he hung up in a dry cool place.

0/" Prepagaling Herbs 6y Slips and Cuttings.
Many kinds of Pot-Herbs may now he propa-
gated by cuttings or slips, which may be planted
out to nurse on a shady border for a few weeks,
or till they have struck root, and may then he
flamed out where they are to remain. It made
about the middle or‘latter end of the month, they
will be ready for trans-[flaming before the‘end of
August, and in that case would be well establish-
ed before winter.
The kinds are IxIarjoram, Mint, Sage, Savory, , '
It

258 INDEX 01: ' WORK. [JULY.

Sorrel, Tansy, Tarragon, and Thyme. For the
manner of planting, see March.

MnmCINAL HERBS.

Many of these will also now be fit for gather-
ing to dry, and the rules above mentioned should
be observed, in gathering and drying them. The
flowers of Chamomile should be pulled from time to
time, as they are produced; for the plants continue
flowering in succession for several months. They
should be gradually dried, partlyin the sun, and
partly in the shade, by being spread on a mat or
sheet; lifted out of the sun in the heat of the day,
and placed in it, mornings and evenings. La-
vender flowers should be gathered and dried in the
same manner; observing to cut the spikes when
the flowers on the under part begin to drop their
petals. The kinds mentioned in March, may also

now be raised by slips‘or cuttings; which see.

WALL AND ESPALIER FRUITS.

Qf the Final Til-inning of {Vail Fruits.
The. stoning of apricots, iteetarines, peaches,
and plums, will now be over, and the crops of

fruit on these trees should finally he thinned.

JULY.) WALL AND STANDARD FRUITS. 259

This should be done, at all events, previously to
their beginning to swell off for ripening, that the
full strength of the tree may be thrown into the
fruit left upon it; in order to augment their size,
and increase their flavour.

\Vith respect to the quantity or number proper
to be left on a tree, much must depend on its size
and strength, and whether it be full grown, or be
yet in training. A full grown tree, in a healthy
state, may be allowed to produce considerably
more than one in a weak condition. And if a tree
yet in training, that is, one not having filled the
space allotted to it, be allowed to ripen all the
fruit it may set, its extension will be much retards
ed in consequence. On the More Park Apricot,
and the larger kinds of Peaches, in a healthy full
bearing state, a fruit to every foot 'square of the
superficial content, or surface of the tree, may be
taken as a good medium : That is to say, a tree
covering a space of fifteen feet by twelve, may be
allowed to ripen about two hundred fruit. The
smaller kinds of apricots and peaches, and of nec-
tarincs in general, may be allowed to produce a
third part more, if in a healthy state. The larger
and better sort of Plums may be thinned in pro,

260 i - INDEX or went. [JULXZ

portion, and according to their sizes ; and may be
thinned out to from three to six inches apart, if on‘
the shoots of last year, or so as to hang quite free-
of one another, if on spurs.

I am aware that many will think thinning to-
-this extent an extraordinary measure; but I would
have such be convinced of the propriety of doing
so, by comparison. If they have two trees of a
kind, both healthy and well loaded, let the one he
thinned as above, and allow the other to produce-
as it has been wont, or thin it even to halfthe ex-
tent. It will be found, that the tree fully thinned
v.ill produce an equal, if not a greater weight of
fruit, and these incomparably more beautiful, and
higher in flavour. Observe, the comparison must
he made the same season, else it would not he

_ fair; as the size and flavcur might be very differ-
ent, according to the goodness or badness of the
weather in different years.

Apples and pears should also be mode ‘ateiy
thinned; rind good account would he found in the
practice. This should he done when the fruit is
about half grown; or when all . pprehension of its
(hopping is over. Nothing tends more to keep
ii'int-trees in good health, than regularly to thin

'JULYJ WALL AND STANDARD mums. €61

their over- abundant crops, and that always before
they begin to swell off for ripening; for if this be
delay ed till they are nearly full gmwn, the mis-
chief is, in :1 gr eat measure, already done ne, both
to the tree, and to the fruit left.

0f Training Summer Shoots.

Continue to train in the advancinn shoots of
’all kinds of wall and espalier trees, as directed last‘
month. Do not shorten them on any account,
unless they have arrived at their goal; as that
would make them push a parcel of w 3k spray,
which would not ripen ; and so would require to
be pruned away in winter, or next spring. Many
kinds push lateral twigs on their summer shoots,
and generally begin to do so after midsummer.
These should always be pinched of} as they appear, -
and likewise any water shoots that rise fiom the
old wood, or spurs, about this time; which would
sav- a deal of trouble in the winter prunin'rs.

’lhe shoots of figs should be extended at full
length, and should be laid in at the distance ofa-
bout twelve or fourteen inches from each other,
more or less, according to the size of the foliage

eithe different kinds, some growing-more gross

262 INDEX OF WORK. [JULY.

than others. ‘See-more particularly of this, on
pruning the fig, in Janua1y. ‘

Some ad ise shortening the summer- shoots of
figs, to cause them put out laterals for hearing
next season. This may be right, if the plants are
in a hot-house; but it is wrong, if they grow in
the open air; as these laterals will not ripen sutl-
ficiently to endure the winter frosts, and so would
be of no use whatever.

(y Ilatmmg W (112- Trees.

Continue the operations of the garden-engine
on all kinds of wall-trees, except cherries, andl
scourge them heartily for the destruction of the
red spider, before the fruit begin to ripen; as, af-
ter that, it will be proper to desist for the sake of

the fruit; both on account-of its flavour and
bcant".

Of Destroying Insects on F rm't- Trees.

Wasps will now begin to swarm about the ear-
ly fruits ; and for their destruction, phials should
be hung about the branches, half filled with honey
and water, or with sugar and small beer. These

should be emptied and replaced once in two or

mun] WALL AND STANDARD FRUITS. 263

three days, otherwise they do not take so well;
these little animals being extremely sagacious, and
disliking the appearance of their own dead. ’5

Wasps and flies maybe killed very fast, by dip-
ping a feather in a little sweet oil, and touching
their backs with it. They will instantly die.
‘Vhen- intent on the fruit, and half buried in the
excavations they have made, they are easily come
at, and are not apt to fly about. Insects of differ-
ent kinds are easily killed by oil. It closes up the
lateral pores by which they breathe.Z .

The Eanvig and "bod-Lousc also begin to prey
on fruits as they ripen. There is a very simple
way of ensnaring them, and by which they may
be taken alive in great quantities. Place four—
inch cuts of reeds, bean-haulm, or strong wheat-
straw, among the branches, and also lay a number
on the ground, at the bottom ofthe wall. In these,

 

* It seems to be a fixed Law in nature, that all animals have
a. horror at the sight of their own dead. You will hardly push
even a very docile horse past a dead one. The skeleton of a
horse, or a heap of his bones, is perhaps the greatest possible
scar to him. If a dead crow be hung up, or if his feathers and
limbs be scattered about, it is a better scar to crows, than it‘
twenty pigeons or magpies were hung up. A rat or a mouse
can hardly be decayed or enticed to the trap wherein is a dead
one; but remove it, and they will instantly take the bait.

2641 ‘ INDEX or worm. [111111.

the insects take refuge at day-break, as they de~
predate chiefly in the night; and any time throunh
the day they may be blown into a bottle with a
little water in it, and so he drowned.
“mu/s may be destroyed as directed in April,
and must now be carelully looked after.

' OF SH [{UBS.

Of Flaming; Evergreens.

About the last week of the month, and the first
week of August, is perhaps the most successful
time in the year for planting ,Evergreens. ()n

, this suhjeet, I have fully enlu‘ged aheady, - and
beg to refer the re eauer to this head in April.
New IS a proper time to plant and clip evergreen
hedrres, as also there alluded to; and to plant
and trim box-edgings, as there fully directed.

(y Clipping DeCiJuous Hedges.

‘ Those who make it a practice to clip deciduous
'liedges t rice :1 year, should, at the beginning of
the month, go over them also. See April for re-'
111111115 011 the formation of all sorts of hedues,
whether as fences or screens.

aroma] saunas. _ 265

Of Training Climbing Shrubs.

Continue the general care of shrubs and climb-
ing plants, as directed last month; also, to twist
off or otherwise destroy the useless suckers rising
about the roots of many shrubs; to hoe and clean
the borders, walks, and edgings, as they may re-
quire, and as often hinted at in the former months.
Layering down, and forming beds of roses, as
hinted at in June, may still beacon-tinned by those
CUI'IOUS in them. It has the ellect of prolonging
the season of roses considerably.

0F FLOWERS.

Qf Carnations and Pinks.

‘The choice Stage Carnations should now be
removed from the situation they were placed in,
as directed in May, to the stage where they are
to flower.

Previouslyto placing them on the stage, let the
pots be properly. cleaned, and stir up the surface
anew with the point of a stick; adesting the
flower-stems to their sticks.

Any of the flowers not opening fair, should
have the pod slit with a penknife, or with sharp-

1266 INDEX or worm. [JULY.v

pointed scissars, in two or three places round the
edges,‘ and a little way down, in order to aid the
petals in expanding; as otherwise, large flowers
often open in an irregular manner, and so are
very deficient in beauty. This care to have them
break regularly, must be repeated from time to
time; never slitting the pod much at once, but
always leaving as much of the bottom part entire
as may be sufficient to keep the petals regularly
together. The pod being tied round in the mid-
dle, with a small bit of mat, or green worsted,
would keep it more correct.

As the flowers come into full bloom, and if it
he wished to preserve their beauty and delicacy to
the latest, they must be shaded from the mid-day
sun. The stage, if a raised one, must for this
purpose 'be so constructed with a canopy-roof, as
that a shade or awning can be drawn over it at
pleasure. This curtain may be of thin canvas,
and contrived to move, by the help of pullies and
cords, so as that all, or any part of the stage, can
be shaded from the sun. If oiled, it would. also
answer for defending heavy rains, but in that way
it is not so agreeable ashade to sit under; and on

this account, some have one of each, or at least

Jenn] FLOWERS. 267

an oil-cloth for the top-part, to drawn on in wet
Weather.

Others content themselves with placing the
pots on flat stages or benches, and shading or
screening the flowers with mats, or canvas covers,
as hinted at for choice bulbs, in April. In either
way, they should generally be shaded, in sunny
days, From ten till tWo o’clock ; and on all occa-
sions, should be defended from heavy rains and
high winds. They should also be regularly and
moderately supplied with water, generally once
a-day.

Carnations, whether cultivated in this way, or
in the open borders, are subject to the attacks of
insect enemies. These are the green fly, ear-
wigs, 5* and slugs, above ground; and in the soil,

the wire-worm, which sadly annoy the roots. I

 

* Earwigs and slugs are fond of the points of the young
shoots of carnations and pinks, and are very troublesome in
places where they abound. To prevent them from getting to
the fine stage plants, the posts 01' supports of the stage, are
sometimes insulated in water, being set in cisterns, or puns. If
a pencil, dint in oil, were drawn round the bottom of the posts
once in two days, neither of these insects, nor ants, would at.-
tempt them. Few insects can endure oil. The smallest 11101)
of it is instantly fatal to many kinds. See destroying “70.5175; i"

bore ; article Fruits.

268 ~ INDEX or WORK. , [JULY.

have given ample directions for the destruction of
all but the last named, in April, and on the head
Wall Fruits, in this month. I do not know a re-
medy for the wire- worm, except by carefully
searching for it in the earth; which is hardly
practicable for plants grown in the open ground,
to any considerable extent. IF that in the pots be
infested with them, it should be changed entirely,
as soon as may-be convenient, and soil from a
place distant, and quite distinct, should be used in-
stead of it.

My father cultivated carnations most eagerly, to
a very great extent, and with as much success as
most people. About the year 1785, he had a.
most admirable collection; and excelled all his _
neighbours inthelreel clove gillg/lower. A year or
two afterwards, he untbrtunately changed the situ-
ation of his valuable collection, from the borders
in front of an extensive range of hot-houses, to
several large mounds of soil, brought from a cer-
tain mid, to be used in composition for melons,
peaches, grapes, &:c. This easih was laid up in
the back garden to meliorate, of which there was
a supply for many years. He had taken some of
it for his potted carnations, and found-they did re-

JULYJ FLOWERS. V 269

markably well in it ; and so was induced to shift
the whole stock, as above stated. He had not dis-
covered that this soil swarmed with the wire-
worm. They increased to such a degree, that in
two years he lost three-fourthsof his stock; shift-
ed the remainder back to their original situation ;
but unfortunately some of the soil had also been-
trenehed into the borders ; and so ultimately was
lost his entire collection.

The worm I here mean, is about three quarters
of an inch in length, yellow, small and wiry, with‘
a black head. The soil was axstrong loam, and I
have since observed, that this worm often abounds '
in such.

Carnations and choice pinks in the open ground
must also now be attended to; be regularly wa- .
tercd in hot weather, the flowers trained, and as-
sisttd in the opening, as above directed, accord-
ing to necessity. Pipings and layers of these may _
still be made. See June.

0f Lifting Choice Bulbs.
If any of the choice bulbous flower roots are yet
. in the ground, and if it be intended to lift them,
that work should not now be dehycd. See full

970‘ INDEX or WORK. - [JULY.

directions on this head last month; and also, of
carefully drying and storing them against the
planting season.

Now also take up the roots of Anemones and
Ranunculuses that have done flowering, and whose
leaves have begun to decay ; carefully drying and
storing them as directed in June.

General Care of Border Flowers.

Still be careful of all kinds of border flowers,
whether in respect to watering those lately trans-
planted, or to Supporting and training such as re-
quire it; cleaning and trimming the borders and
walks, as often already hinted at, and destroying
weeds wherever they appear.

 

 

INDEX OF WORK.

 

AUGUST.

 

CULINA RY VEGETABLES.

CABBAGE seed may be sown about the middle
of the month, from which to raise plants for stand-
ing the winter, and to come in the earliest next;
spring. Sow of the early Dwarf, or true early
York, on a bed or border of light, dry earth, mo-
derately rich. Refresh duly with water in dry
weather.- Some of this sowing may be planted
out in October ; which see; and some may be al-
lowed to remain where sown, in order to their
standing over winter in different ways, and that
they may have a chance of weathering it the bet-
ter. At the same time may be sown a little red
cabbage, to plant in spring.

272 INDEX or ' worm. 7 Erica- .

Caulgflower, for the early crops of next year,
> should be sown about the middle of the month.
They will be leady to prick out in Oct her; which
see. Sow on a bed or border of light earth, and
water as may be necessary.

Celery, for a late crop, may yet be planted, but.
the sooner in the month the better.

That planted out, as directed in June, will now '
require to be earthed up. Let this he done in dry
weather; previously hoeing the ground among the ,
plants, whether itbc clean or foul of weeds, in
order to stir the earth about them. Be careful
not to bury the heart leaves, otherwise the growth
of the plants will bemuch retarded. Pull out any
plants that may have run for seed.

This earthing must be repeated once in two or
three weeks, according to the growth of the plants;
but never earth too much at a time; rather repeat»
it the oftener, and always in a dry day. The croys
planted in July will also iequire to be carthed up
a‘little, about the latter end of the 11101.th.0h~
serve the same rules for it, and for that nox ' plant»
ed; and it will be unnec ass: .23; to say more iot‘
celery for the season.

volezemts may still be i lanted, if not done;r a

AUG] CULINARY VEGETABLES. 273

directed last month; which see. If a succession
be required, plant some about the latter end of the
month.

Endive, for a late crop, may be sown about the
middle of the month. Also, plant out, of that
sown last month, a quantity for a full crop, in
every respect as directed in July; which see. Hoe
and’clean the advancing crop; and if endive be
required early, let the blanching be begun, either
by earthing, tying up, or otherwise, as there
noticed. It will be fit for use in a few weeks.

Onions—The first or second week in the month
is the proper time to sow a full crop of winter-
onions. They‘should be sown on dry, rich land.
If sown on heavy or wet ground, they are apt to
be thrown out by the frost. It may safely be said,
that this is the most proper time in the whole year
to sow for a full crop, on light land, ; as in such,
the spring- sown crops are often attacked by mag-
gots in the early summer months, and so go off,
sometimes entirely. But this does not happen
with onions sown at this time ; as before the sum-
mer droughts set in, the crop is full grown, and
past danger.

The Strasburgh Onion is the fittest kind for

s

274 INDEX or WORK. fAUG.

this sowing. The seed should be sown rather-
thickly, in order to afl'ord a plentiful drawing in
spring; green onions being then in general re-
quest. Sow in beds i and for full directions, see
February,

The spring-sown crops will now be fast coming
to maturity; and in order to forward them, and
promote the swelling of the bulbs, let them be
carefully laid, as directed in May for the winter
crop. Those most forward will be fit for taking
up by the middle or latter end of the month, and
may be treated as noticed in September; which
see.

Shallots—About the beginning or middle of
the month, the full crops of Shallots, Garlic, and
Rocambole, will be fit for taking up. Of this
see July.

Spinage, for winter and next spring crops, should
be sown at the beginning, and also at the» end of
the month. Choose dry, lightish, rich land. If
some he sown on a wall-border in a south aspect,
it will come very early in spring, and will be the-
more welcome on that account. The prickly spi-
nage is the only kind that will stand a hard win-A
tcr. Some sow broadcast, and others in drills 5;

AUG.) SALL ADS. 275:

but I like the latter method best. It is, no doubt,
the most troublesome in sowing; but that trouble
is more than saved, in the cleaning and gathering.

If you sow in drills,draw them at twelve inches
apart, an inch deep, and sow moderately thick.
If broadcast, sow in four-foot beds, also moder—
ately thick, and cover pretty deep, that is, half
an inch or so, from the alleys. Do not tread in
either case. Rake all smooth and even.

Turnip (the Yellow Dutch) for a full winter
crop, may be sown about‘the beginning of the
month, if not done as directed in July. Some,
however, choose to sow at both times, in order
the better to secure a crop. About the latter end
of the month, they may be partially thinned out,
and finally in September; which see.

OF SALLADS.

Black American Cress.——Sow on a warm border,
at the bottom of a wall or hedge, about the mid-
dle or latter end of the month; or on, a bed, or-
beds of light dry earth, in any situation exposed
to the sun. It will stand the winter, and come,
in early in spring. For the manner of sowing,”
see March.

276 INDEX or woax. [AUG-

C/zervz'l may be sown, in every respect'as above,
and will stand over winter, if not very severe in-
deed. It stood the winter of 1808-9; the hardest
we have had at Edinburgh for fourteen years pre-
ceding.

Garden Cress may also be sown, as above, at
the end of the month, and in the middle of Sep-
tember. It will continue good for cutting, till-
destroyed by frost. Sow the curled kind ; it is
the hardiest.

lllzcstard (white or brown) may also be sown
once in ten days or a fortnight, while the weather-
continues open ; but it will do no good after the
frosts set in.

Lettuce—Sow in the first, and also in the last
week of the month, in rich, dry soil, and a warm
‘situation, particularly the last sowing, of which a»-
supply for next spring is to be planted out in Oc--
tober. The first sown will be ready to transplant
in September, and will serve for autumn and win-L
ter use. Sow the brown Dutch, and hardy green
cabbage; and the green, and black-seeded coss
kinds.

If a thin sprinkling were sown among the-win-

ter onions, or spinage, they might have a chance to ,

AUG.) » HERBS. - 277

stand. I have often seen lettuce weather severe.
winters in that way, if sown in dry soil.
Radish—About the latter end of the month,
sow a few black Spanish, and also some red and
white queen radish. They will serve for autumn
and winter use. Choose a dry, open exposure.
They may either he sown in shallow drills, thinly,
at nine inches apart, or may be sown broadcast;
or the queen kinds may be sown along with the
winter spinage; but the black Spanish grows too
rank in the leaves to be sown amongst other crops.
Full crops, for spring use, should be sown next

month ; which see.

HERBS.

Continue to gather and dry all kinds of pot and
medicinal herbs, as directed last month, according
to the season and state of their growths.

If slips or cuttings of these were made, as di-
rected in July, they will be fit to transplant for
good, about the latter end of the month. For the
manner of planting see March. But iiithese slips
or cuttings have not yet been made, they will still
succeed very well, especially if made before the
middle of the month.

"2‘78 "INDEX OF WORK. [A-UG.

WALL AND ESPALIER FRUITS.
Df Closely Training-in Summer Shoots.

Apricots, nectarines, peaches, and plums, will
‘now be fast approaching to maturity. In order
that the fruit may be exposed to the full sun, let
the shoots in training be carefully dressed to the
wall, or rail. This is a matter too little attended
to; but it is of much importance in the produc-
tion of high flavoured fruit.

To what‘purpose do we plant these trees against
walls, if we suffer ‘the fruit to be shaded, in ripen—
ing, by the whole summer’s foliage,—-a thing; not
at all uncommon? Might they not as well be
standing in the open ground ? My practice has
been, not only to dress the shoots in training
closely to the walls, but to prune off all superfluous
grow/I. ,- and as the fruit begin to Colour, to pick
’ilf every leaf that may overhang Ilzem ; thus very
much enhancing their beauty and flavour.

But it is necessary, on another account, to dress
all shoots of these trees closely to the wall at this
time, and to continue doing so while they continue
growing, even to the latest, and after all the fruit

is gathered 5 nancly, in order that their shoots,

nee] WALL A’ND EsMLIER "FRUITS. 279

which are to produce the next year’s crop, may
be perfectly ripened and matured. If otherwise,
the flowers will be weak, few, and the fruit :in con-
sequence will be scanty.

Qf Gathering Stone Fruits.

It is a common thing to let these fruits drop-of
their own accord, when ripe; and that theylmay
sustain little injury in falling, the borders at the
bottom of the wall are covered with moss, or nets
are suspended so as to catch them. But it is a bet-
ter practice to pull, than to let them drop; not
only to save them from all blemish, but that they
may be eaten in higher perfection. Let any one
pull and eat an apricot, or a peach, from a shoot
on which there is another equally ripe, one or two
days before it would have dropped ; allow the o-
ther to drop oil", eat it, and make the comparison.
In line, all “kinds of stone fruit fall of? in flavour,
if suffered to fall off from the tree.

In arguing thus, I have been asked, howl knew
11-7261: to pull? as it is improper to handle or feel
them, especially the finer apricots and peaches. It
no doubt requires some practice, and a knowledge
of the kinds, to be able to judge at sight. But

280 13'sz or WORK.- [Avon

there is a simple method, which I would advise
even the best judges to practise, on which lstum-
bled by accident; The instrument I first used,
was more rude than the one I shall recommend,
being no other than a tin watering funnel, used
for watering stage-plants.

_ But I would have made for the purpose, a fun-
nel or trumpet- mouthed instrument, about six in-
ches diameter at the mouth, and three or four in-
ches deep; the edge thin, rounded off, and the
whole lined with velvet. Its handle also of tin,
two feet or a yard in length, and made to take in
a light staff about two yards long. With this you
may reap the fruit of any ordinary sized wall-tree;
and the method is, to slip the edge of the funnel
gently underneath the fruit you think ripe, and
give it a small shake. If it fall not in, pass it till
next day, or the next time you come a- gathering;
which, in fine weather, should be twice a-day.
By this simple method, the fruit is preserved fair
and unblemished, and maybe gathered in the high-
est possible perfection, with little trouble.

Of Destroying Insects.
Continue to ensnare and destroy all insects that

AUGJ SMALL mum. 2‘81

infest these fruits, as directed last month; and de-
sist from watering, as the fruit approach to matu-
rity, as there also hinted at.

SMALL FRUITS.
Qf Netting and [Matting up szants and Goose-
berries.

Currants and gooseberries, on north walls or
pales, that are intended to be kept to the latest,
should be netted over, to preserve them from
birds. These are sometimes kept back in the open
.ground by being izlatted up, which should be done
as soon as they are fully ripe. Currants keep
good a long while in this way; but gooseberries
or raspberries hang. so short a time, that it ishard-
1y worth the trouble.

Qf‘ Planting Strawberries.
Strawberries may now be successfully planted.
The strongest runners are to be chosen, and if
planted any time in the month, will be well ~r00t-‘
ved before winter. For soil, distance, and the
manner of planting, see Section IV.,; March,
;and April.

282 INDEX or worm. [Ava

OF SHRUBS.

0f Planting Evergreens.

Continue to plant, if not done as directed last
month, evergreen shrubs and hedges. For full
directions, see April. Finish the planting, how-
eVer, in the first week. or by the middle of the

month, if possible, that the plants may get fully
established before winter.

Of Cutting Evergreen Hedges.

Evergreen hedges and box-edgings may still be
cut, if not yet done; but the sooner in the month
the better. Indeed this work should be perform-
ed at all events beflire the plants begin their sc-
cond growth; and, unless in late seasons, and cold
situations, it had better be done about the latter
end of July, as there directed. For the manner
of forming and training all kinds of hedges, see

A pril.

or FLOWERS.

Of Carnations and Pinks.
Continue to take care of the choice kinds of

' To] 'rtowm's. 283
Carnations and Pinks, whether in pots, or in the
borders, as fully directed in July.

Qf Transplanting Seedling Carnations and Pin/rs.

Nam plant out the seedlings that were pricked
out in June, into beds, or into pots, according as
it may be intended they shall be managed. Those
intended for the borders may be planted as direct-
ed in March; which See; and also for the soils
proper for Carnations. Those intended for the
stage, or the house, may be planted into pots six
inches diameter, and may be shifted into full pots
about the first of next March; If strong and vi-
gorous at this time, and if they be intended for
the house, they may be put into full pots at once.
These should be twelve inches diameter, and a-

bout twelve or fourteen inches deep.

Qf‘ T ramplanting Pz'pings and Layers.

The Carnation and Pink pipings, made about
the end of June or first of July, will require to be
planted out, either into nursery-beds, or into
small pots, about the middle or latter end of the
month, according to the progress they may have
made. If planted out in beds, choose a warm

2811' ' INDEX or WORK. (AUG.

border or other well exposed situation; plant at
five or six inches apart ;‘ water, and shade them
from the sun for a few days, or till they. have
taken new root. Those put into pots (of four or,
five inches diameter) may be placed in the shade
'till they have struck root, and may then be placed
in a warm, sheltered situation for the winter; or
may be otherwise treated, according to conveni-
ency.

The layers, if any were made in June or the be-
ginning of July, will now be fit for taking oil“; but
first examine the state of their roots, in order to
make sure work, and see that they be well furnish-
ed with fibrils. They may be treated, in every
respect, as directed above for the pipings.

Qf Auriculas.

Now is the proper time to make slips of the
fine stage auriculas, and the earlier in the month
the better. Let them be carefully taken off, trim
away a few of the bottom, leaves, and plant them
into pots three inches diameter, and four deep.
Out of these they must be shifted in February,
(which see), into full-sized pots, about six inches
inside diameter at top, and eight inches deep.

AUG.) FLOWERS. 285“

The pots must be in this proportion deep, in or-
der that a few small shivers, or a handful of clean,
roundish gravel,,may be laid at the bottom of each,
to drain of? the superabundant water. This should»
be done with all potted auriculas, as they do not
like stagnated water about their roots.

Indeed, this rule ought to be invariable for all
potted plants. Nothing is more pernicious to
plants, than stagnant moisture, whether in pots,
or in the open ground; and, unless for aquatics,
draining should be carefully studied, and prac-
tised, as far as the-case will admit. It needs but
a single comparison to be convinced of the pro-
priety of thus draining the earth of plants in pots;
which may be made by any one, and will be ma-
nifest in a very short time. There is another ad-
vantage in laying a handful of clean gravel at the
bottom of the pots, as above directed,‘namely, it
prevents worms from crawling through the hole,
into the soil, at least in a great measure; and it is
well known that worms very much alter and im-
poverish earth in which they abound, in passing
it through their bodies.

The mother plants should be taken out of their
pots; the balls reduced to about half their size;

286 INDEX or woax. [AUG.

and the matted roots singled out, and properly
trimmed ; paring away the stump, and retaining
only the fibres. Then replace them into the same
pots, if they be of the dimensions above mention-
ed; observing first to lay a few shivers, or some
gravel at bottom ; shaking the pots well in potting,
to firm the earth about them ; and settling all with
a moderate quantity of water. The slips should
also be moderately watered ; and the whole ought
to be; carefully shaded till they have struck fresh
root.

After the plants are potted, they may be re-
placed in the situation they have stood in all sum-
mer, and may there remain till next month, or
till the first of October.

Auriculas will do very well in hale, rich, light-
ish earth ; but better in soil thus composed :—A
third part brown loam ,‘ a third vegetable earth of
decayed tree-leaves, and a- third rotten cow-dung;
to which‘ add a tenth part of sharp sand, or small
gravel. A quantity should always be kept ready,
and it should never be used without being a year
old, and being completely incorporated. In lieu
of vegetable earth of tree-leaves, peat-earth, that
is, the surface-sward of a moss or muir, (not that.
fromlthe pits), may be substituted.

AUGJ CULINARY VEGETABLESA 287

Of Polganthuses.

Pclyanthuses will flower in great perfection in
such soil; or in good. gardewearth, mixed half
with peat- earth, and a moderate quantity of dung.
Treat those in pots in all respects as auriculas.

The slips of the choice kinds made in April,
(which see), may now be transplanted into the
beds or borders where they are intended to flower
next spring. Allow them eight or nine inches
between the plants each way; and if your pot
them, place them in such as those for the auricu-
las, mentioned above; using gravel, or shivers, in
like manner. The seedlings pricked out from the
:March sowing (if any) in June, may now also be.
planted out for good, into beds, as above.

()f Transplanting Stool-s, Rockets, &c. in Pat-3..

The seedling Stocks, Rockets, VVallflowers,
and others, potted out in June, (which see), may
now be shifted into full pots of eight or ten inches
diameter. \Vater and shadethem for a few days;
then place them in a well-exposed situation, till
taken into the house. Plant them in rich, sound.
earth, not over stiff;

288 mam-or WORK. fave.

The March or April made slips of these, and
of Campanulas, that were potted out in May,
may also now be put into full pots, as above.
And the cuttings (if any) made in May, should
either be planted out into nursery-beds, or into
small pots, about the first of the month; to be
again transplanted in October, or in February,
if not then well- rooted. ‘

Qf Making Slips of various Flowers.
_ Slips of many kinds of fibrous—rooted, hardy

perennial flowers, may now' successfully be plant-

ed, eitherrout for good, or into nursery beds, or

rows.- See many kinds enumerated in February;

to which may be added others, according to fancy. .
. If planted intonursery-beds about the beginning

of the month, . in a favourable situation, many of
them would be fit for transplanting about: the lat-

ter end of September or first of October, and in
that case would be well rooted before winter. 0-

thers, if not fit, might be delayed till-February,
or March next year.

Of Saving F lower-Seeds.

Those curious about saving flower-seeds, must

AUG] cum-2mm: vacuums. 289

now attend to them. Many kinds will begin to
ripen apace, and should be carefully sticked and
supported, to prevent them from being shaken by'
high winds, and so partly lost. Others should be
defended from much wet, such as asters, mari-
golds, and generally those of the class Syngenesia ;
as, from the construction of their flowers, they are
apt to rot, and the seeds to mould, in bad seasons.
\Vhenever they are thought ripe, or indeed any
others, in wet weather, they should be removed
to an airy shed or loft; gradually dried, and rub.
bed or beat out at conveniency.

Of Dressing of the Flower Ground, 8yc.

Continue to destroy weeds whenever they ap-
pear, and to dress '01? the borders, walks, edgings,
Ste. whether of gravel or'of grass, as already often
directed, in a neat and handsome manner. A
garden well kept is easily kept. If weeds once
get the upper hand, it is no trivial matter to sub-
due them. This object, therefore, should never.
be lost sight of for a moment.

’1‘

l

 

 

:3
SE P TE JIBE R.

 

CU‘LINARY VEGETABLES.

.ENDIVE.—-Plant out, for a late crop, a little of
the endive sown in August, as soon as it is fit.
This should be planted on a warm border, or in
a sheltered situation, in light soil, that it may
have a chance of standing over winter. Attend
to the advancing crops as directed last month,
and in July. ‘
Alushraoms.—-Now is a good time to prepare
beds for producing mushrooins through the win-
ter. 1 .
W'inter beds should always be under cover of
some kind, capable of defending the spawn from

wet. _It is easy to defend it froi‘n frost, by a suf».

292 mmrx or worm ESE”.

ficient covering of straw or litter; but much wet
or damp is its destruction, though gentle showers
and waterings put it in action, and a state of ve-
getation. Light is not necessary to the produc-
tion of this vegetable; and it may be as success-
fully raised in a cellar as any where, provided it
be not over (lamp. A shed, loft, stable, or any
outhouse, will answer, where it can be defended
from wet, and from frost.

\Vhen neither of these can be had, and yet if
you are anxious to have mushrooms 1n winter,a
cover or frame, capable of defending the bed from
rain, snow, or fi‘ost, may be made at a small ex-
pense, thus : First make a frame of inch and half
deal, nine or ten inches deep, six feet wide, and
of any convenient length, from ten to twenty feet.
Then fit a roof to it, three feet in the pitch, made
of thin boards, imbricated ; which lay over with
two or three coats of pitch or paint. The roof
part to be fixed down to the under frame, by
hooks and eyes, or by bolts; so as that it may be-
removed at pleasure; and to have two moveable
boards on each side, of about a foot square, to
s‘ip for the admission of air.

This 'sort of frame being placed in a dry, warm

sax-1x] CULINARY vncsmetm.‘ 298

situation, and being insulated bya drain or trench,
would completely defend the bed from wet ; .and
by being covered, in severe Weather, with straw
or mats, from frost. If the ground be not per-
fectly' dry, a- sole or floor must be formed of ashes,
gravel, or stonech‘ips, for the bed ; a thing neces-
sary in any situation the least damp, either with
in, or out of doors.

The cultivation of mushrooms is a process in
gardening perhaps the most singular and curious
of any. In the culture of any other vegetable, we
either sow or plant something material,-—a seed,
slip, or root, which we both see and handle ; but
in the culture of the mushroom, we neither sow
nor plant any thing, visible, at least, to the naked
eye. Yet it is certain that mushrooms are pro-
duced by seeds, which naturally vegetate in the
fields at certain seasons, and which may be made
to vegetate artgfi'ciallg] at any season, by a certain
process, and by a composition in which the dung;
of certain animals form the chief ingredient.

The droppings of horses are found to produce
mushrooms more plentifully, and with greater cer-
tainty, than the dungs of other animals. Hence
it would appear, that their stomachs have less

. *L 294‘ ' INDEX OF WORK. E’sem.

' power to hurt, or to destroy the vegetative quali-
ty of these seeds, which being collected along with
their food, must pass through their intestines, than
the stomachs of other animals; or, that the dung
of horses is a better nidus for the seeds than other
dongs. .

* This vegetable may be produced by first making

, lumps, or wh at are sometimes called cakes of spawn,
and afterwards placing them on a slight dung hot-
bed, where the spawn vegetates into complete.
mushrooms; in which process of making tfze spawn.
(as it is termed), different ingredients are used,
but chiefly the dung of horses, as said above. This

' has so far become a branch of trade, as that mush-
room-spawn may be-had of most of the nursery
and seeds men about all the great towns in the
kingdom.

1 have formerly been in the practice of produc-
ing mushrooms, however, most successfully, with-
out using spawn, and by a very simple process: I
might rather say, without transplanting spawn in
the common way, but by making the bed a whole
mass of spawn at once, and never disturbing it till
done bearing. Beds thatare built in the common

way, and spawned, seldom produce long; perhaps

sum] CULINARY vacuums. 295

only for a few weeks or months. , I have had them
continue to yield large cropsthe year round, and
sometimes for two years. But mushroom bedsyini.
whatever way made, are subject to many misfor- '
tunes; and the spawn is of a nature so delicate, r
that it is quickly destroyed, either by- too much
wet or drought. ,
By making up a bedin the ordinary way,.that
is, of stable dung, moderately fermented, to the-
thickness of about a yard; spawning it over when -
the strong heat has subsided, and then covering it
with light earth, mushrooms may be obtained
sooner than by the process I shall recommend. {But
if this process be more slow, it has the advantage —
of being more sure; and the time of reaping; may
be reckoned upon with equal certainty. The dif-
ference of time, from first proceeding to make the
beds, to gathering mushrooms, will generally be
three or four weeks. By the first method you
may reap in six' or eightweeks, and by the latter
in ten or twelve. Proceed thus: ,
After having laid a floor, as hinted at above, of
_ ashes, stone-chips, gravel, or brickbats; so as to
keep the bed quite dry, and free from under damp;
lay a course of horse-droppings, six inches thick.

296 ~ mm: or WORK. (SEPT.

These should be new from the stable, and must
not be broken; and the drier, the better. They
may be collected every day, until the whole floor
or sole be covered to the above thickness; but they
must not be allowed to ferment or heat.

In the whole process of making up, the bed i
should be as much exposed to the air as possible;
and it should be carefully defended from wet, if
out of doors. When this course is quite dry, and
judged to be past a state of fermentation, cover it
to the thickness of two inches, with light, dry
earth; if sandy, so much the. better. It is imma-
terial whether it be rich or not; the sole use of
earth here, being for the spawn to run and mass
in. Now lay another course of droppings, and
earth them over, as above, when past a state of
fermentation ; then a third course, which in like
.manner earth over. This finishes the bed; which
will be a very strong and productive one, if pro-
perly managed afterwards.

Observe, that m forming the bed It should be a
little rounded, in order that the centre may not
be more wet and moist than the sides. ‘ This may
be done in forming the sole or floor at first, and the
bed would then be of equal strength in all parts.

mm] CULINARY maxi-nun. 29?

If it be made up against'a Wall in the cellar, sta-
ble, or shed, it may have a slope of a few inches,
from the back to the front; less or more, accord-
ing to its breadth.

I have sometimes been contented with two
courses, as above, instead of three ; and often,
when materials were scatte, have made them up
slighter, thus: Three four-inch courses of drop-
pings, with one inch of earth between each, and a
two-inch covering at top. Such a bed as this, I‘
have had produce for ten or twelve months toge-
ther; but very much depends on the state of the
materials, and on the care taken in making it up ;
also, on the after management.

The droppings of Izardvfed horses only are use-
ful. Those of horses on green food will, of them-
selves, produce few, or no mushrooms. This I
have proved in more than one instance, much to
my disappointment. And I have moreover found,
that the richer the keep of the horses, the more
productive are their droppings. I have made up
beds from farm-horses, "fed partly on hard, and
partly on green food; and from carriage or sad-
dle-horses, fed entirely on corn and hay; treated
them in the same way, in every respect, and have

298 INDEX or WORK. ' [sapn

found, not once, but always, those made from the
latter most productive.

Droppings from Corn- fed horses may be procur-
ed at the public "IDA-ls in towns“ or at inns, any
time in the year; and if the supply I): plentiful,
a bed of consulei able dimensions may be m Ide and
finished within fiva or six weeks In as many moi e
weeks, if in a stableor dry cellar, it will begin to
produce, and often sooner; but if the situation of
the bed be cold, it will sometimes be two or three
months 111 producing mushrooms.

In any. situation, the“ bed must have no-water
till the spawn begins to fun. When you would
know this, thrust in your hand, a few inches deep,
in difl'erent parts of the bed, and examine what
i you bring up. It ought to smell exactly of mush-
rooms, and have the appearance of small bits of
thread. But generally, you will be forewarned of
the spawn running, by a previous crop of' spurious
fungi;u which rise more or less abundantly, ac-
cording to the fineness or g1ossness of the mate-
rials of which the bed 15 composed. These fungi

generally are either what are called pipes 01 balls;
and sometimes a kind of mushroom of a very bad
sour—thin, flat, with white or pale yellow gills,

‘ seer] autumn): VEGETABLES. 2'99-

Th y have all, however, a nauseous; sickly smell,
and may readily be distinguished “from the true
mushroom, which is thick, hemispherical, with‘
b102- , or reddish gills. _. _ 1

u ht n you haVe thus ascertained that the spawn
is fully formed, give the bed two or threephearty.
waterings, in order to ,set it .asgrOW’ing; for other-
wise, it will lie dormant, and show no symptoms,
of vegetation. Give just as much water, (but by
no means at once), as will fairly reach to the bot-
tom of all the materials; and afterwardSrkeep the
bed in a state neither wet nor dry, but rather in-
clining to the latter; this being the safe side to
err on; as it is more easy to make it damp, than.
to d1y it.

\Vhen a bed has been as it wexe tired of pro-
ducing, I have sometimes desisted from watering
for several months; then, by examination, as as
have hinted, have found a new set of spawn form—
ed all over the surface, the threads being deep-
rooted, even to the bottom. By a hearty water-
ing, as above, a most plentiful and lasting supply
has been obtained. The idea of treating my, beds
so, arose by observation of the mannerin which

. field” mushrooms are often produced. . We fre-

800 tum-m or woxut. Ester.

quently see the crop suddenly disappear, and as
suddenly appear again, according to the state of ‘
the weather, with respect to wet or drought; and
that, too, in the same field.

In gathering mushrooms, they should always be
cut, and never be pulled; as by pulling, many
young ones might be destroyed. There are al-
ways a number of these forming or clustering a-
bout the roots of the old ones, which should not
be disturbed. If the spawn be deeply situated in
these buds, mushrooms will often fiorm and come
to full maturity,» entirely under ground. They
may easily be recognized, however, as they are
generally large, and push up small hills above
their heads. They ought to be uncovered with
care, that the spawn about them may be as little
disturbed as possible.

Guiana—Let the full crops of onions be now
taken up. They will reap little advdntage after
the middle or latter end of the month. Spread
them thin on the ground ; but if the weather be
wet, they had better be removed to a gravel-walk,
or a space purposely covered with sand or gravel,
in the full sun. Turn them over once or twice :1.
day, until they are thoroughly dried, and then

sseTJ CULINARY VEGETABLES. 801

store them in a well-aired loft, 8w. Here still
turn them occasionally, if they lie anywise thick;
or you may string them up by the tails, or hang
them in nets. If they are not intended to be
strung, the tails and outer husks should be dis-
placed before housing them, and the latter at all-
events; that is, just as much as comes easily ofi‘
in rubbing. - ' ,

The manner of stringing them is this : Takevin
your hand three or four by the tails; tie them
hard with a new strand of matting, or a bit of
packthread; place on two or three more onions;
lap the thread once or twice round theii tails;
place mote onions, which also lap hard; and so

on. In this mannei may be made a stung (as it
is called). or bunch, of a yaid in length, or more;
which, by being hung up in a dry, well-aired
place, free from frost, is an excellent. way of keeps
ing onions.

The winter crops,so sown in- August, will now
be well up, and should be duly cleared from
weeds. If cleaned about the latter end of the
month, perhaps they may not require weeding a—
gain this season; but that must depend on the-

602 - 31mm; or WORK. (seer...

state of the ground; and if need be, go over them
a second time.

Parsley, to come in early next spring, may be
sownAthe beginning of the month. But where
there is plenty that was sown'in spring, a store
may better be provided, by reserving a quantity,
from this time, uncut.

Before winter,i‘let a few large or birch branches,
or long broom, be laid over it, and above these a
little dry-been . haulm, fern branches, bent, or
reeds; preferring the two latter articles, on ac-
count of their durability. ‘ Fine young parsley
will here be found all winter, even under the snow,
and will come rapidly in, in spring.

'Spinage, for spring use, may be sown about the
beginning or middle of the month. See direc-
tions in August. Along with this may also be
sown a little lettuce. Hoe or weed the rising
crops, according as them may need, and according
to the manner in which they have been sown. If
the seeds have risen very thick, the plants may be
moderately thinned out; reserving the final thin-
ning, however, till February; which see.

T unzip—Now finally thin out the crops of win-
ter turnip, and hoe the ground among them. Let

an] autumn VEGETABLES. 305

the broadcast crops be thinned to eight or nine
inches square, and those drilled to five or six in
the lines. Yellow turnip 'may still be sown, and
if done at the beginning, or about the middle of
the month, will succeed pretty well. For the
manner of sowing, see July.

SALLADS.

Clzervz'l, Garden Cress, and American Cress, may
still be sown for standing over winter, by being
covered, as will be directed in November. See,
the manner of sowing all these last month.

Lettuce may still be sown, but the sooner now
the better. See August. Some may also be sown
along with spinage; which see above.

Plants of the early sown lettuce of last month,
will be fit for planting out about the middle or
latter end of this. They should be put out at the
bottom of a wall or hedge exposed to the south,
and may be planted in doubleor treble lines, at
five or six inches apart each way. Some. prick
them in at three oriour inches apart, with the
view of thinning them for use, or for transplant-
ing one-half in- February. Do not plant over
deep, and give a little water to settle the earth to

I 804 mom or wonx. [SEP'E

their roots. If planted in this way, the coss-kinds
should be~ placed nearest to the wall or hedge, and
the cabbage kinds outermost, being hardiest.

But if there is not the conveniency of a wall,
hedge, or pale, plant in beds, in the next best '
situation; and if it be pretty well sheltered, the
soil light, and freely exposed to the sun, there is
no reason for despairing to keep lettuce over win-
ter, if not very severe indeed. Being covered, as
will be directed in November, there need be little
fear of its standing.

Radish—About the beginning or middle of the
month, sow a full crop of red and white Queen
Radish, and also some black Spanish. They will
stand over winter, and he very acceptable in spring,
For the manner of sowing, see August.

watt. AND ssmusa FRUITS.
Qf Tl'az‘ning-in Summer Shoots.

Continue to train all shoots closely to the Wall
or espalier, whether the crop of fruit be gathered
or not from the tree; and that for the reasons
'given on this head last month. Also, pick off
such leaves as overhang the fruit, not only of .late
_ peaches and nectarines, but of the choice wall

pt

SEPT.] WALL AND ESPALIER FRUITS. 300

pears and apples. Even this thinning of leaves
should be extended to the espaliers, and done to a
certain degree; at the same time thinning away
all surperfluous spray from the spurs, and cutting
clean off the lateral twigs.

0f Gathering Wall Pears and Apple”

The Jargonelle, Yair, Bergamots, and some
other kinds of pears,‘should be eaten from the
tree, or within a few days after they are pulled ;
they should never be allowed to drop, and they
lose much of their flavour by keeping. The other
kinds of pears, and apples in general, should not
be pulled till their seeds are of a dark-brown, or
blackish colour. In gathering and storing these -
fruits, great care should be taken not to bruise
them. They should be laid singly on shelves, in
a dry well-aired room; Do not lay them on moss
or b y, (a thing often done), as they thereby con-
tract a very disagreeable flavour. If they are
placed on any thing else than a clean shelf, it
should be on fine paper, brown paper gives them
a flavour of pitch. The finer large kinds of pears
should not be allowed even to touch one another 5
but should be laid quite single, and distinct. Ap‘ ‘

' U

2306 INDEX or WORK. [SEPT..

ples and all other pears, should he laid thin ; ne--
ver tier above tier.

Qf Destroying Insects on Fruit. T recs.

Never lose sight of this object, even when the
crop is gathered. Therefore resume the watering
and scourging with the engine, all apricots, peach-
es, plums, Ste. that are disloaded of their fruits, for
the suppression of the red spider ; for, from the
respite this little enemy has had, he will now have
become very formidable again. This is not only
necessary to the conquering of his thousands at
this time, but will. tend to prevent his millions
from coming forth in spring, Continue to en-
snare and destroy all other enemies of the insect
tribes, as already fully directed. Every art and
mean is allowable in war, which, they have pro:
voked..

SMALL FRUITS.
V p . ' . I I . . :
OJ nggmg the Ground among szants and
G005m’28rrit’s. .
The borders and quarters among these plants,
may be digged as soon as convenient, after the

crops are gathered; and if ground he scarce, a

SEPTJ SMALL news. 307

littletspinage or turnip may he sown, or coleworts
may be planted among them. But otherwise, let
the ground be laid up in a rough manner, that the
weather may act the better on'its surface.

0f Digging the Rows of Strawberries.

Now let the spaces between the rows of straw-
berries be digged, and if necessar ', also be (lunged.
The common way of doing this, is to rut off the
rows from the intervals, and to dig them, without.
singling the plants in the row. If the plants be
old, and have never been dressed in summer, (see
May), it is no doubt a very difficult thing to singie
them out properly. But strawberries should at-
ways be dressed twice a~ year, and each plant
should be kept distinct. I do not mean that the
spaces between the plants in the row are to be
deeply digged, but only pointed, or stirred up
with the hoe; the manure being buried in the in—
tervals. The surfacemay be left rough, in order
that the weather may act the better upon it..-
This work may be done at cenvenicncy.

308 1 INDEX or WORK. [SEPTo

or FLOWERS.
Auriculas and P01yant/mses.

About the latter end of the month, it will be
proper to remove the choice Auriculas and Poly-
anthuses to their winter quarters; that is, to the
stage-frame; or, if not provided with one, to a
dry, warm situation, where they may be screened
and be secured from bad weather by canvasses, or
ell cloths.' .

If placed in a stage-frame, it must be turned
with its front due south, that the plants may en-
joy the full light through winter. They must be
freely exposed to the air in good weather, and
have occasional and moderate supplies of water.

If not provided with a frame, place the plants,
as directed in June, in a compact manner; and so
as that they may be readily defended from bad
weather when necessary. Remove the covers,
however, at all times in good weather, even
through winter. Frost, unless very severe, will
not hurt them. Bleaching rains, and snow, is
more injurious. Decayed leaves should always be
displaced, and every symptom of mouldiness pre—
vented, if possible. The surface of the earth

Seen] FLOWERS. 309

should be frequently stirred, as often already hin t- .
ed at; at, least whenever the soil at top begins to
appear anywise green or mossy; stirring carefully,
and so as not to hurt the fibres.

Carnations and Pinks.

All potted carnations and fine pinks must, about
the latter end of the month, be placed in their
Winter quarters; that is, in adry, warm situation.
What has been said hbove, respecting auriculas,
will apply here, and a repetition is unnecessary.

General care of F [otters in Pots.

The choice kinds of potted plants should, to«
wards the end of the month, be placed in a warm
situation, either under a Wall or hedge, or closely
together, in such a way as they may be guarded
from bad weather when necessary. IF the soil be
not naturally dry, 3 bed of sand may be formed,
in which to plunge them. They should be sunk,
quite to the rims of the pots; previously dressing
them, and stirring the surface of the earth, as
above directed for the pots of auriculas.

If the whole surface, after they are regularly
plunged, were covered to the depth of two or

 

(t

010 INDEX or weak. [912".

th1ee inches with old tan-bark, or saw-dust of
timber not resinous, none but severe frosts would
hurt either the plants or the pots. By the help
of mats, oil-cloth, or canvas, they might be de-
fended from very severe weather, or too much
wet. Those plants tall, or in danger of being
hurt by high winds, should be neatly dressed to
siieka, with strands of fresh matting. Here they
will be in store, and in readiness for removal to
the house at pleasure.

Qf Transplanting Perennial Flowers.

The slips of hardy perennials, made about the
beginning of August, will be fit for transplanting
about the latter end of the month. Such as are
weak, and not well rooted, may be delayed a few
weeks, or till February. At this time also may
he transnlanted, any seedling perennials, sown in
spring, or the early part of summer, which have,
or have not been picked out. The manner of
planting must depend on fancy; and for the me-
, thod, the reader is referred to this head in the pre-
Ceding months. V

SEPT.) FLOWERS. 31 1

Of Digging Borders, at. in tke Flower Ground.

Let all vacant places he digged over, such as the
spots where patches of annuals have grown; and
prepare patches for Crocuses, Snowdrops, Nar-
cissuses, or the like, about the borders, or where
it may be intended to plant them in that way.
Also, get‘ ready the beds for all sorts of bulbs,
which will fall to be planted next month. Hoe
and weed all beds, or patches of perennials, and
otherwise clean the walks and ground, as they may
‘ require; clearing away decayed annuals, flower
stems, or dead haulm.

 

 

 

INDEX OF WORK.

OCTOBER.

 

CULINARY VEGETABLES.

BEANS may be planted about the middle or lat-
ter end of the month, and if they survive the win-
ter, will come in the earliest next season. The
early Mazagan or Lisbon kinds are to be chosen,
preferring the former. Sow, in every respect, as
directed in January.

Beet—About the latter end of the month, the
crops of red beet should be taken up, and be stored
for winter use. Choose dry weather, if possible,
for this business, and lift the roots carefully, as
they will bleed at every hurt or wound. They
should be stored among clean, dry sand, in a cel-
lar or out-house, where they may be quite sccure

81% INDEX or WORK. [001”.

from frost or wet. If they are let remain in the
ground, as some choose to do, they must be co-
vered, before winter, with reeds, bean haulm, or
the like; but in this way they are very apt to rot,
and 2950 to lose their colour, by being blanched
with rain; and it is a better way to lift and store
them, as above. In dressing off their tops, do not
out near to the crown of the roots, but at an inch
away from it; as they are apt to bleed, if wound-
ed, as said above.

Brocolz'.—-Attend to the crops of brocoli, and let
them be cleared from weeds. About the latter
.end of the month, let them be finally earthed up ;
choosing, for this operation, a dry day. Treat
the crops of Brussels sprouts in like manner.

Cabbage—About the beginning or middle of
the month, prick out a quantity of those sown in
August. Choose a dry, lightish spot of ground,
and divide it into four-foot beds, with twelve-inch
alleys between them. Point over the surface, and
break it fine; then prick them in at three inches
apart, and settle all with a little water. Observe
to plant each sort separately; and do not plant too
deep.

At the same time may be planted out, on a

oer] CULINARY VEGETA BLES. 315

warm border, or other well» exposed spot of good
soil, being well digged and manured, a. quantity
for good; which, if they weather the winter, (and
that they will do, if not very severe indeed), will
come in very early and acceptably in spring. In
order to have the better chance of obtaining a.
crop, and also a succession of spring greens, they
may be planted at fifteen inches between the rows,
and at eight or nine inches in line. In March or
April, every second one in “the lines may be cut
out for use, and the others will then have suffi-
cient‘room to come to full size.

There is another very good and simple method
of obtaining spring cabbagcs; which is, to let the
roots and stems of a quantity of the spring, or
early summer planted ones, remain in the ground.
At this time, clear them from leaves and other
rubbish, and point over-the ground“; burying in a
little compost about their roots, if the soil be poor.
If the winter be open, there will be a constant
supply; and if not, a crop of fine hearted cab-
bages will come in about February or March,
the size of one’s fist, very delicate and accept-
able. The best sorts to dress for this purpose,
are the Early Dwarf, or Early York; as those

816 INDEX or WORK. [can

cabbage betteryand sooner, than any of the other
kinds.

Carrot should now be lifted, and be stored for
winter use. Choose a dry day for this business,
and clear them from earth. Then pare off their _
tops, so as to prevent them from growing after-
wards, to the depth of about half an inch; as by
this treatment they keep the better, and do not
get soft in spring. Store them in a cellar, among
clean, dry sand, as directed above for Beet.

Caulzflowen—Now prick out a quantity of the
plants sown in August, under‘a wall or hedge, in
light, rich earth. Point up, and form a border for

'them, close under the wall, 8cc. twenty inches or

two feet broad, and prick them in at three inches

apart. Previously beat the surface lightly with

the back of the spade, and do not plant them deep.
If the weather, and also the earth be dry, give a.

little water; but this will not need to be repeated.

Throughout the winter, let them be divested of
dead or decaying leaves, as they appear; and clear
the ground among them from litter, which in wet
weather would tend to rot them. If the earth a-
mong them were covered half an inch with fine

. and, they would stand bad weather the better, as

con] CULINARY VEGETABLES. 317*

it is generally just by the surface they go 01?, and
net at the lower parts of the root.

About the middle or latter end of the month,
according to the state of the weather, and state of
their growth, is the time to lift and store the cau-
liflowers planted out in July, for a winter supply.
Pick out all such as are fair, close, and well sha-
ped; lift them carefully with the spade, and dress
off the points of the leaves, just over above the
flower; also reducing a few of the outside leaves,
so as to make them take up little room. On this
article, in July, I have remarked a method by
which they might be kept in good condition, till
February or March next year. Whoever is pro-
vided with such a receptacle for them, need go no
further; but there are other methods to be pursu-
ed, in order to keep them, if not over winter, to
a very late period of the season.

This may be done in a common hot-bed frame,
or frames, under glasses, which might be well mat-
ted over in hard weather. If placed in such, they
should be laid pretty upright, in the ordinary way
of sougln'ng ,- closely together, but not touching;
and if placed in dry, sandy earth, they will keep
the better. They should be exposed to fresh air

3-18 INDEX or WORK. [00L

as much as possible, and on fine days the glasses
should be entirely removed; always putting them
on at night, however, for fear of frost, and at all
times, in rain. They should be cleared from dead a
leaves, and every species of litter that might occa-
sion dampness. Or,

They might be kept, much as above, in a more
rude kind of frame, formed with coarse boards, or
with dry bricks, and filled with sandy earth; to
which a light frame of hoops or laths might be
fitted, in order to support an oil-cloth cover, or.
tarpauling. By such, they might be defended
from rains, and from snow; and, with the addi-
tion of straw or mats, from frost. It, would be
necessary, however, to expose them to light, and
fresh air, on all occasions; as otherwise they
would become yellow, and illvflavoured; which is
generally the case with cauliflowers kept in sheds
or cellars.

Parsm'p should be lifted, and be stored, about
the latter end of the month; either as directed a-
bove for beet, or, for want of room, iaybe pit-
ted in dry sandy earth, in the manner now genea
rally practised for potatoes.

l’cas may be sown about the latter end of the

oer] SALLADS. 319'

month, in every respect as directed in January;
which see. They may have a chance of weather"
ing the winter, and of escaping mice, or other ver-
min; but they will not come in many days earlier
than those sown about the first of the year. I have-
often seen the crop sown in February, beat all the
preceding ones, both for quantity and earliness.

Salsqu, Smrzonera, and Skirret, may all now be
lifted and be stored for winter use. See Beet, above.

Spinagc.—Hoe and weed the crops of winter
spinage, according as they may require, and put
them in proper condition before winter. See Sep-
tember, for directions on this subject.

SALLAns.

C/zemil and Cresses may still be sown; see the
two last preceding months. The sooner in this
month, however, the better.

Lettuce—Plant out, as directed last month,
some of the plants sown the latter end of August,
in order to succeed those planted in September;
which see.

Queen Radix/z may yet be sown, to succeed those
sown last month, and in August. If a few of the

London :hort- topped radish were now sown, they

320 INDEX or WORK. [00L

might, perhaps, come in about Christmas. These,
however, should be sown under a wall, 86¢. in a.
south aspect.

WALL AND ESPALIER FRUITS.

There need be little ,added on this head to what
has been said last month, to which the reader is
referred, for directions respecting the training in
of the summer-made shoots, in order to their be-
ing fully ripened and-matured; also, for the ga-
thering of fruits, and the suppression of insects.

In late seasons, and if the leaves of wall-trees
hang longer. than usual, they may be brushed oil”,
in order to let in the sun and air the better to ri-
pen the wood. This brushing, however, should
be cautiously performed, never brushing much at
a time. The leaves should not be forced off vio-
lently. Some use a common stable is ehroom for tshi
purpose; but a better instrument is a hazel, or
strong willow withe, ora small smooth cane The
shoots from which the leaves me to be disple ced,
should be gently stroked upwards, and outwards;
but never the reverse way, else there is danger of
hurting the buds.

' eon] ’ sn-ALL ram-rs.“ ' 321

Trees exposed to the wind seldom require this
care; but sometimes espaliers may, and, if so, the
same course is to be pursued as above.

If a plantation of fruit-trees be intended, next,
or the succeeding months, it will be proper to be-
gin preparing the borders for that purpose; and
for directions, the reader is referred to the section
on Soils, and to January. If it have been a good
season, fruit-trees may be fully ready for. lifting
about the latter end of the month, and so of course
for planting. It is proper to plant at this time, or
next month, in light soils; but in heavy or wet
soils, the work had .better’ be delayed till spring.

SMALL FRUITS.
Plantations of these may now be made; that is,

of Currants, Gooseberries, and Raspberries; but

I prefer planting Strawberries in March or April,
or in August; which see. Respecting the others,
the reader will find directions in the sectiOns on
Soils, and on Fruits ; and in January and Febru-s
ary. . '

The ground am’ong cu_rrams and gooseberries,
and the rows of strawberries, may still be digged,

as directed last month; but that work should nor;

X

I

322 than or WORK”. (ace.

be got forward, in order that the soil may be the-
better meliorated by the action of the weather”

or snmms.
Qf Digging the Shrubbry.

The borders should now be cleared from all de-
cayed flower-stems, haulm, 8:0. and the whole
ground of the sln‘ubbl‘y should be digged over, as‘
soon as may be convenient, that it may be in‘a
measure fallowed by the action of the weather-
thoughont winter. The surface should, for this.
purpose, belefc quite rough. For fulldirections
respecting diggingamong shrubs, and on the pro-
pri'ety of doing so by diflbrent instruments, accords

mg to the” age, see February,

Qf Planting Deciduous Trees, Shrubs, and Hedges.
Towards the latter end of the month, most kinds:
I of deciduous trees. and shrubs- will be fit for trans-
planting. 1n dry, absorbent soils, autumn plant-
inn is tobe prefer. red tos psring planting, abut only
I. n that patticular account , for other wise, it is?
V best to plant just before vegetation commences..
l or the method of arranging trees and sln ubs, and
the distances at which they should» be planted, see

ocr.]‘ FLOWERS. ' 323‘:

the First and Fourth Sections; also, January,
February, and April.

Deciduous hedges may also now be planted;-
and blanks in young hedges may be made good
with stout, well-rooted plants. These voids should
always be well (lunged, in order to encourage the
growth of the plants put in; that they may, if
possible, overtake the other plants in the hedge, so

as the whole may rise a regular fence.

or FLOWERS;
Qf Planting various Bulbous Flowers.

About the middle of the month, the general?
planting of bales may commence; from the mid-
dle of October to the middle of November, being
the best time in the year for that business.

Bulbs, in general, like a light, or sandy soil;
and for the choice kinds, it should be well pre-
pared and enriched. But the common sorts,
planted in patches about the borders of the flower-
grouud ,or shrubbry, must. of course fare asrother
flowers do. Previous to planting, however, the-
patches mould be well. stirred up, andthe earth be-
made line to the depth of a footer fifteen inches.

The same should he done along the edges of the-

3241 INDEX or woax. {ft-er.

borders, where crocuses and snowdrr sare .1.» want
to be planted in a row. _

Crocuses and Snuwdrops nan-{v be planted at six
or eight inches off? ‘13: x, f. 131‘.- or five inches
asunder, and two riches deep. In beds, four feet
wide, they may be planted in rows across them, at
six or seven inches asunder, three or four in the
row, and two inches deep. These small roots may
be planted with a- blunt dibble, the ground being
previously made quite loose and fine ; or they may
be placed in flat drills, which is a better method.
Alternate beds, or alternate pieces on the same
bed, of . different coloured crocuses, have a very
fine. effect early in spring, and are the more pleas-
ing on account of the rarity of flowers at that
time.

Fritz'llarz'es, Irises, Narcissuses, and common Tu-
lips, may be planted in patches of three or four
roots in each, at eight or ten inches apart in the
patch. The groups or patches may be distributed-
as fancy shall direct. In planting‘these, a spade-
ful should be lifted and laid aside; then stir and,
bxeak the earth fine, to the depth of a foot, place-
t‘. 1e roots, and cover them with the earth laid aside,

emu] FLOWERS. 325

to the depth of four inches. This is a better me-
thod of planting than by the dibble; as, in using
it, the roots cannot be so securely placed, there ge-
nerally being a hollow left under them.

These, also, may generally be planted in beds
four feet wide, with alleys of eighteen or twenty
inches between them. The ground should be dug
or trenched, to the depth of eighteen inches, and
broke as fine as possible; or if it be shallower,
to its full depth. Mark of the beds and alleys;
and from the former, skim off three inches of the
surface, into the latter. Then place the roOts,
either in lines, lengthwise, nine inches asunder,
and six in line; or at seven or eight inches
square; pressing them gently down with thehand.
Cover them evenly, to the depth of four inches,
which will make the alleys two or three inches
lower than the beds. The beds should be gently
rounded, from the middle to either side; but this
should be done before placing the roots, that they
may all be alike Covered; else those at the sides
Would be too shallow, and those in the centre too i
deep. After all is finished, the surface should be
raked smooth, and be gently rounded, as said above,

:826 "INDEX or wonx. [ban

\to shoot off the wet; the middle being raised about
"three inches higher than either side.

Of Choice Tulips.

For the choice sorts of Tulips, however, a bet-
.ter and a richer soil may be prepared, and they
may be allowed more room than the above roots.
Tulips like a sound rich earth, rather light than
otherwise; and if it be wished to have them
llower in perfection, the ground, if not naturally
good, should be enriched with compost of earth
and dung, well incorporated. It should be made
1(good, to the depth of fifteen or eighteen inches ;
then place the roots as above directed, allowing
them ten inches between the lines, and seven or
cightin line; or place them at nine inches square;
or they may be placed in a quincunx, at ten inches
apart. These. distances to be reckoned from cen-
tre to centre of the roots; and the (lcpth, in all
cases, to be four inches.

f it be intended to screen these flowers in spring,
as directed in April, the alleys between the beds
should be thirty inches, or a yard wide. Observe,
before placing the roots, to form the bed roundish,

2h above directed; and also in the dressing it 011'

arm} uowms. 32'?“

afterwards ; making the middle abo at three indies
higher than the edges.

0f Hyacinth.

The Choice Hyacinths may be planted very
much as above directed for Tulips, with respect
to distance and depth; but they require a very dif-
ferent kind of soil. It should be many degrees
fighter: in short, a rich sand. If sea—sand can be
procured, so much the better; but otherwise use‘
clean pit sand, or small river-gravel. A mixture
of meats 0r hogs dung, with that of the stable;
large proportion of vegetable, earth of decayeZ‘
tree-leaves, being well decomposed; and an ant--
ple quantity of sand may, with common garden
earth, be made to form a good soil for the him.
cinth, thusz—good earth, one-third; sand, athird
part; dung as above, a sixth; and vegetable earth,
a sixth part.

Of Polymzt/ms and Italian Narcissuses.

These may be planted, in all respects, as hya-
cinths, above directed; but they do not require
so much room, by an inch or two. The ' him 4
soil exactly similar to that for hyacinths,

2328‘ INDEX or WORK. [00?"

0f Jonquils.

Double and single Jonquils may be planted at
five 0r six inches apart, and three inches deep.
They likeva stronger soil than the above, more re-
sembling that for tulips; but they will do very
wellin a medium soil between. that for tulips and
for hyaeinths. - Jonquils do not flower so well the
first, as the second or third season after planting;
and therefore should always be let stand two or
. inore years in the'ground. - See June. -

Many other bulbous flowers might be added to
those treated of above; but as the culture is so
verysimilar, it would only be wasting-time to say
moreof them, than that they should be allowed
distance according to their kinds, and should be
planted deeper or shallower, according to the size
ofthe,roots. A covering of two inches for the
smallest, and of four for the largest, will general-

ly answer; and so in proportion. ‘

I shall here enumerate a few of the different
kinds: Autumn Crocus; Cro‘wn Imperial; Bul-
bous Fumitory; Grape, Musk, and Wood Hya-
cinths; Lilies, the White, Orange, Sword, Mar-
tugon, and Asphodel; Star of Bethlehem, many

can] rLows‘ns. 329

varieties; Summer} Snowdrop. Fancy will best
direct the manner of their arrangement. .They
may be planted in small patChes, in larger groups._
‘ or in beds.-

Qf Anem‘cmes and Ranunculuses.

Some plant these before, and some after winter. .

They will do in either way; but if the soil and

situation be not very unfavourable, that is, cold, ‘

bleak, and wet, the best time is now, or in the be-,
ginning of November. In a bleak situation, or
a wet soil, delay planting till February. The treat-
ment of these flowers is so similar, that, in order to
save repetitions, I have here classed them.

They like a rich, loamy earth best. In.light
soils they often languish in spring, and early sum-
mer droughts, and sometimes do not show their
flowers fully. To garden earth, therefore, of a
middling texture, should be added some strong
clayey or loamy soil; and‘it. should be well ena
riched with the cooler dungs; that is, of neats
or hogs. The whole should be well mixed or in-
corporated, to the depth of fifteen or eighteen
inches. The roots may be planted in four-foot
beds, with. broad alleys, as forthe choice tulips.

3330 INDEX or WORK. ['00 a

Form the surface level, in order to detain, rather
than throw off moisture; and throw up the alleys,
about two inches deep. Then draw flat drills, ex‘
actly two inches in depth, at six inches apart, a-
cross the bed. In these, place the roots, claws
down, at the distance of four inches from each
other; covering carefully, so as not to displace
them, and so as that they may be buried an inch
and a half as nearly as possible. Finish all with
the rake; but the surface of the beds should be
quite level, and not rounded, as for bulbous
floweroroots.

0f Trimming and Dressing tile Flower Ground.

After the plantations of Bulbs, &c. is finished,
every part of the flower ground should be put in
order. Most annual flowers will, towards the end
of the month, have passed the season of their
beauty. We then, being nolonger charmed by it,
ought not to be distressed, or disgusted with its
decayed remains. Therefore, remove all decayed
annuals, flower-stems, or haulm, and trim off the
borders and walks in a neat manner; dressing this
department in its winter garb; which will not re-
quire to be changed, till spring return.

 

ll

INDEX OF \V-ORK.

 

 

 

CULINARY VEGETABLES.

Ali TICPIOKES~The roots of artichokes are
liable to be injured, often quite killed, by severe
frost. They should therefore be covered up, be-
fore the winter sets in, with stable litter, to pre-
serve them. First clear away the decayed stalks,
and the bulk of the leaves; and then lay the lit-
ter along the rows, of a breadth sufficient to cover
the extended roots, according to the age and size
of the stools, and to the thickness of a foot, or
more, if there be much straw in it; treading it,
or heating it well down with the fork, in order to
prevent it from blowing about.

Sen-wred is an excellent manure for artichokes;

332 INDEX or worm. [mom

and to this covering may be added a quantity of
it, as it comes ashore throughout the winter, if it
can be obtained. "Of this, see March.

Asparagus should now also be covered ; not so
much for fear of frost, the roots being very hardy,
but for the purpose of manuring the ground about
the plants. For this purpose, good dung should
be laid on; and not mere litter, as frequently is
done, in the idea that the roots would otherwise
perish. Fresh stable dung, to the thickness of six
inches, should be laid on, to which may be added
an equal quantity of sea-weed, if it can be had;
but this may be put on at any time through win-
ter, as it happens to be cast ashore. I do not
know a better manure for asparagus ; of which, see
March.

Previous to laying on the above covering, after
having cut down the haulm, the ground should be
cleared from weeds, and the surface should be well'
stirred in the raking; or it may be stirred'with a
small fonr-pronged fork, which is a better method,
to the depth of tWO inches. 1 This is advisable, in
order that the juices of the dung may more readia
1y find their way to the roots and fibres.

1mm] CULINARY VEGETABLES. 383

Beans, if not sown as hinted at last month, may
now be sown“ See October, and January. , ’

Celery—In the apprehension of a severe winter,
the forward crops of celery should be coveredy‘up
with dry bean haulm, or with bents, which are pre-
ferable, that it may be readily come at, in the man-
ner directed for parsley last month; which see.
The later crops, intended for a spring supply, may
be left uncovered, and to take their chance of the
weather, as they might be injured by being too
long excluded from the air.

Peas—Sow also, if not done la-st'month, a few
early Frame or Charlton Peas. See directions in
October, and in January. . Be careful to entrap
mice, if the rows be attacked by them.

Sea- Cale should now be covered up, in all re-
spects as advised above for asparagus; observing“
to use plenty of sea-weed,- if it can be obtained,
which is an excellent manure. for this vegetable.

sauans.

The crops of Chervil, Cresses, Endive, Lettuce,
Parsley, and 'of Radishes, sownand planted as di-
rected in the two last preceding~ months, should,
in the-prospect of severe weather, be cove ed with

334 INDEX or won K. Exam.

care, and in the manner as hinted at in Septem-
her, under the head Parsley; which see.

0f Teena/ting, or Ridging up of Ground.

Now trench, dig over, (roughly), or ridge up all
vacant pieces of ground, according as they may re-
quire; in order that the weather may meliorate
them, by acting,r on the surface; which, for this
purpose, should be enlarged as much as possible,
by being left quite rough.

WALL, nsmusn, AND STANDARD FRUITS;
These may. all now be planted in dry, light:
soils, (as noticed last month); and, excepting Figs,
Nectarines, and Peaches, maybe pruned. For
full directions on. these subjects, see the Sections
on Soils, on Fruits, and January.. Also, respect‘
ing Small Fruits.

or snares.
0f digging over the shrubbry, and oF‘planting,
deciduous shrubs and hedges, see October, .lanu-
ary, February and April; and thevfirst and fourth
‘SectiOns for the methods of Arrangement, Dis-
tance, &c.. These should notbe planted if the

a

mom] ‘ rLowus. 383

weather be anywise frosty, or if high winds prevail;
nor if the soil be not in a dry, comfortable state.
Nothing is more hurtfulto a plant, than, at this 4
season particularly, to bed its roots in mortar; by
which the tender fibrils are ever afterwards cramp-
ed, if they do not actually perish in consequence"

or FLOWERS.
(”are of Choice 316558.

The beds of these roots should, in the appre-
hension of a severe winter, be covered for their
preservation. This is often done by canvases, or
mats, as spoken of in the spring months; but by'
being too much excluded from the action of the
atmosphere, they are frequently injured; and it is,
besides, a method both troublesome and expensive.
It is less so, and, perhaps they may be as effectual-
ly secured by a covering, to the depth. of two in-
ches, of saw-dust not resinous, and fine sheer- sand,
mixed in equal quantities. Or, they maybe co-
vered, to the depth of: three or four inches, with-
one~fourth sand, and three- fourths rotten stable
dung, well mixed together; which, besides prec.
serving, would act as a manure to. them.

 

 

 

INDEX OF WORK;

 

 

DE CEJII BE R. .

 

CULINARY VEGETABLES.

THERE is hardly any thing to be said'on this ‘
head, further than to refer the reader to last
month; and to-advise the speedy fulfilment of the ‘
directions there given, respecting the careof the

different vegetables mentioned, if care to preserve

them throughout winter have not been taken. It

is “ the dead time of the year;” and if the articles

advised to be sown in October and November have

not been sown, they may as well now be delayed

till next month; as in all probability the seeds

might lie in the ground, in a state of inactivity?“
and so would. be the more liable to perish,

Y

338 INDEX or WORK. {DEC}.

‘ . Qf Trenching and Digging Ground.

VV‘ork, for the melioration of the soil, may go.
on as directed last month,_ if the weather will per-
mit. But it is by no means advisable, even for-
this purpose, to trench or dig ground in a wet
state; nor to bury in it much snow, in trenching
or digging. It is wrong to trench or dig in ma-
nure so, though we see ‘it done every day. The
workmen had better be paid their wages, and be
sent to bed than be thus employed..

There is another error I wish to point out, viz..
The wheeling out of dung, and laying it in bar-
row-loads on the borders or quarters, where it is
not intended,.perhaps, to be digged in for months.
The wheeling out of manure is certainly a. very
proper business in hard weather, and it is equally
proper today the necessary quantity on each par-
ticular» spot. But why lay it out to a certain
waste and loss, when that waste can be saved with
so little trouble, namely, the laying it in a com-
pact heap, and covering it with a little earth? '
This trouble, and that of spreading it out at the
time of cropping the ground, can by no means
ccunterbalance the loss of the virtues of the ma»

one] WALL AND STANDARD-FRUITS. 339:

nure; which are either exhaled by the action of-
the atmosphere, or bleached away by heavy rains.
If these little heaps lie long, the spots under them
are too much manured, and the intervening spaces
too little ;. and so of course the crops rise unequal—
ly, and are often partly lost; some places being
too scant of crop, and in other places the crop go-
ing of? by scald.

WALL, ESPALIER, AND STANDARD FRUITS.

The reader is referred to January, for directions
respecting planting and pruning these; and, for the
preparation of the soil, and arranging them, to the
Second and Third Sections, on Soils, ,and on,
Fruits: Also, for what respects Small Ewits.

or SHRL'BS. ‘

Of planting deciduous shrubs and hedges, sce-
lastmonth; January, February ; and Sections First
and Fourth. And of clipping and training deci-
duous hedges, work now very proper to be done,
see April; where will be found remarks on the
formation and training of all‘ sorts of. hedges,
whether as fences, or as screens. ‘

Tender shrubs trained :igairst walls, houses, or

340 INDEX or wouK. [Duel

the like, should be mulched at root, and in severe
frost should be matted up for their preservation»,
or be otherwise covered, as may be thought pro-
per ;. but the covers should always be removed in
fresh ’weather, lest they be injured by being too
long excluded from the air.

on FLOWERS.

If the choice kinds of bulbous flower-roots have:
not yet been covered, as directed last month, it
should not be delayed. Thesegroots are liable to
be destroyed by mice in winter, and if they
abound, care should_be taken. to‘entrap them.
Some choose to destroy them by poison, but it is
a dangerous method, and is sometimes attended
by unpleasant accidents,

Frequently attend to the choice Aurieulas, Car-
nations, Stocks, Sic. placed in their winter quar-
ters‘in September, and clear them fmm weeds,
litter, or (lead leaxies; likewise observe to stir the
surface of the earth in the pots, if it become hard

. onset moulded, as often ibrmeylydirected,

HINTS
ON THE TREATMENT OF
SHRUBS AND FLOWERS

KEPT IN THE GREEN—ROOM, THE LOBBY,
AND THE DRAWING-110031.

 

 

 

 

HINTS

ON THE TREATMENT OF SHRUBS AND FLOWERS
KEPT IN THE GREEN-ROOM, THE LOBBY,
AND THE DRA'WINGJKOOM.

PREAMBLE.

THESE Hints are general. To enter on «this
subject in detail, would require a separate volume.
The methods of propagating the finer exotic plants
is not noticed ; it being Supposed they are pur-
chased of the nurserymen and florists, procured
from friends, or the like; as it requires artificial
heat, and the skill and attention of a bred gar-
dener, to raise them. Notice is taken of rearing
some of the more common kinds of Annual, Bien—
nial, and Perennial Flowers, with reference to
those treated of in the Index of Work, under the
head Flowers.

3-14 or snmms AND FLOWERS

A few kinds are enumerated, viz. Shrubby
Plants; Perennial, Annual, Biennial, and Bul-
bous-rooted Flowers; and their management is
pointed out in a general manner, in so far as re-

, spects the methods

Of preparing composts for them.

Of potting or shifting the plants.

Of arranging them on the stages, or in the win-

dows.

Of watering. them, and keeping them clean.

Of airing them, and ventilating the rooms.

Of pruning and training them; and

Of destroying insects that may annoy them.

 

1. 0f the Kinds of Shrubs and Flowers.

It will be sufficient, for the purpose here in
view, to name a few of those most particular, and
most generally kept in rooms.

Of the.Shrubby kinds are-

* Aucuba Japonica.

* Antlzg/Zlis Barba-Jo’vis, or J upiter’s Beard.
* Arbutus, different species,

* Balm 9f Gilead.

KEPT IN Tm: HOUSE. 345

* Camellia Japonica, diEerent varieties.
‘7‘ Chrysanthemum Indicum.
* Cistus roseus, and other species.
* Clea/mt arborea. I ‘
* Colutea, the scarlet.
”’4‘ Coronilla glauca.
4* Daphne, the sweet-scented.
Erica, or Heath, many species.
* Fuchsia coccinea.
Geranium, or/Pelargonium, many species.
* Gnaphalium, or Everlasting, many kinds.
Hydrangea arborescens. A
* H ypericum, or St John’s Wort, many species.
* Jasmine, the Yellow Indian. ‘
4* Labelia Cardinalis, or Cardinal Fiower.
9* Mazwandia sempeiflarens. - \ »
M yrtles, broad-lea'ved, narromleaved, variegated,
and double flowering. 7
9“ Oleander, or Rose Bay.
Olive Tree, different kinds.
Orange, Lemon, and Shaddoch‘ Trees.
* Passion Flower. I
* Polygala myrtjfolia, and other species.
* Protea, different species.
* Roses, the indian and Semperflorens.

* Sal-sic! or Save different 5 ecies.
7 c 2 P

3416 or SHRUBS AND FLOWERS

* Teucrium, or'Germander, many kinds.
* Verbena triplz‘ylla, or Vervain.
1* Veronica decussata.

Of the annual, Biennial, and Perennial Flowers,
are—-

'1- Amamntkas, the Globe, Pyramidal, and Tricolor.
1‘ Balsam, double, many varieties.
Campanula ‘p‘yramz'dalis.
Carnations, many ‘varieties.
1' Cockscombs. '
Lily of the Valley.
Mignionette. \
Pin/cs, many varieties. ’
Pyramidal Sang‘rage.
Rockets, different sorts.
Stocks, many varieties.
Wallflower, double and bloody.

Of which those marked thus’r must be raised
from seeds, sown in a hot-bed in the spring; and
the manner of raising the others will be found in
their proper places, in the Index of Work, under
the head Flowers.

KEPT IN THE HOUSE. 347

Of the Bulboustinds, for flowering in water

and in earth, are— ‘

Crinum Americanum.
j: Crocus, many kinds.
1; Hyacinth, many kinds.
i Jonquil, single and double,
1 Iris, the Persian.
Iria, many species.
Lily, Belladonna, Jacobea, and Mexican.
1 Narcissus, Palgmzthus, and Poé'ticus.
Tubcrosc, double and single.
1 T ulip, the Due Vanthol, Claremond, and Potte-
backer.

Of which those markedi may be flowered in wa-
ter, or in earth, according to fancy. Those to be
flowered in earth should be potted in October; >
and should be put in such earth as is directed for
them, respectively, in the Index of Work for that
month.

The Amaryllis or Lily kinds, and the American
Crinum, may be planted in rich, light earth, such
as is recommended for the Polyanthus Narcissus;
or nearly approaching to that for Tulips. This '

848 or‘ SHRUBS AND FLOWERS

soil will also answer the Tuberose ; which may
either be planted in October, or in February or
March. They may be put into pots of from three \
to six inches diameter, according to their kinds;
the Crocus, Jonquil, and Ixia, requiring the small-
est, and the Amaryllis, Crinum, and Tuberose,
the largest. The pots should be of the deepest
kinds; generally two ~ or three inches more in
depth, than they are in diameter at top.

Those to be flowered in water may be put into
the glasses at any time from October to January,
according as it may he wished to have them in
succession. For this purpose also, some of those
planted in earth may be kept out of doors, in a
dry, sheltered situation, where they can be defend-
.ed from much wet, in the manner directed for
choice plants in pots, in the Index of Work for
September; or in such other way as may be
judged most preper to keep them back.

2. Qf Preparing Composts for the above Plants.

\Vhoever has a considerable number and variee
ty of these plants, will require to have a propor-
tionate stock of compost; or a quantity of earths,

of Lliflerelit qualities, whereof to form compost at

' KEPT IN THE HOUSE. 349'

pleasure; as, strong loam, or loamy earth; sandy,
or light earth; sheer-sand; small gravel; moor,
or peat-earth ; vegetable earth of decayed tree-
leaves; lime, or marl; and rotten stable-yard
dung, and cow dung, reduced to a mould. Of
these ingredients may be formed composts of many
different kinds, and so as to suit the nature of the
different plants. Those who have but a few vam—
rieties, such as Geraniums, Myrtles, Stocks, Car-
nations, Sec. may be contented with sound garden
earth, loam, sand, and dung, reduced to a mould.

Those plants in the above list of shrubby kinds,
marked thus, * will do very well in good, lightish,
garden earth; to which may be added, a fourth
part fresh loam, and half as much rotten dung,
with a little sand.

Heaths like best a moo‘r- earth, in which is a
large proportion of clear shining sand ; such as is
to be found on the surface of a common or moor,
whereon lieatlis naturally grow. They will live,
.and even grow pretty freely, in other kinds. of
soil, but will not flower in perfection in any but
native moor—earth, asabove defined; to which
manure of any kind should. not be applied.

The 'Iydrangea requires a rich, light, moist

350 or snnuns AND FLOWERS

earth. It will do very Well in a mixture of loam,
moss, and vegetable mould, in equal quantities;
or, in l1eu of thelatter, rotten dung; with a little
fine sand intermixed.

Geraniums in general like a sound earth, neither
. stiff mor- ‘light, and moderately rich. But of
this genus there are very many varieties, and of
course the soils for them should vary considerably.
The rank-growing kinds should be kept in poorer
earth than the others, else they soon grow out of
bounds..

The same may be said of Myrtles; but they
like a soil approaching nearer to a loan1.. Olives
will also do very well in such.

Oranges like a strong brown loam; which
should have a small quantity of lime 01 marl 1n~
termixed 1n it.

The soils for Campanulas, Rockets, Stocks,
Carnations, Sac. have already been spoken of in
their proper‘places, as noticed above.

The Annuals, as Balsams, Cockscomhs, and

lobes, should be raised first in fine, light earth;
and when shifted out of their nursing pots, the
Bttlsams should be put into stronger, but not
still mould; rather that of a middling texture,

mm IN THE HOUSE: 351‘

made very rich with rotten dung, or vegetable
earth, in order to. make them flower strong and
full. Cockscombs and Globes. should be shifted
into a rich loam, in. which to flower.

Vegetable earth of decayed tree-leaves, is a
most useful article to have in store, as it answers
every description of plants, and wonderfully as-y
sists vegetation. A moderatequantity of it may
safely be mixed in any earth. Its tendency is to:
lighten soils; and so is eminently useful in reduc-
ing strong earths to a medium, without rendering
them poorer, which is not the case in using sand;
for that purpose. '

3. 0f Potting or Sh‘ifling the S/zrubby Kinds.

There can be no fixed time for shifting these
plants, as that must depend entirely on' the state
of their growth, and‘of their healths. Some kinds
may require fresh potting twice a—year, and- others
only once. By turning any plant carefully out of
its pot, when the earth is in a state neither too wet
nor too dry, (that the ball may not be in danger of
breaking), and examining the roots, the matter
may easily be determined. If the roots be clus-
tered or matted about the sides and bottom of the

352 or anUBs AND FLOWERS

ball, the plant evidently requires fresh potting; for
in that state it could not long flourish. The ope-
ration, however, may be delayed for a few. weeks,
or perhaps a month or two, in order that it may
be performed at a proper season of the year. Ge-
nerally speaking, it is best to shift or pot in March,
or in August; that is, to look over the whole
stock at these seasons; but individuals may. be pot—
ted at any time, except in mid-winter. 1

It IS not always necessary to shift plants into
larger pots than those they may happen to he 1n,
though it is often so; as, if this wele 1nva1iably to
be done when their roots have filled the pots, they
would ultimately require pots or tubs out of all
ordinary size. A young, healthy plant, in a small
or middling sized pot, may certainly have one con-
siderably larger, according to its nature, or the
size to which it is to be allowed to grow. A plant
come to full size, and in a large pot or tub, that
requires shifting on account of its roots being mat-
ted, or on account of sickliness, may be replaced
into the same, or a similtn pot; and if on account
of sickliness, it may, perhaps with propriety, be
put into one considerably smaller.

In either of these cases, the ball must be reduc-

KEPT IN THE HOUSE. 3553

ed to a moderate size, ‘ perhaps to a half or one-

third of its former bulk ; singling out the matted'
roots, and trimming away all that are mouldy or'
decayed. In preparing the new pot for it, place

first a handful of shivers or round gravel at bot-

tom ; * then as much earth as will raise the sur-

face of the ball to within about an inch of the rim-
of the pot, more or less, according to its size.

Place the plant with its stem exactly in the centre

of the pot, and fill in the earth all round, which

should hes itul or broke fine; frequently shakingi
the pot, to settle it well down between its sides

and the ball, that there may be no cavity left.

The whole should be filled to within half an inch‘
of the brim, if a middle- sized pot, and to within

an inch, if a large one; this being sufficient roomr
to hold water, as the whole will subside a little

afierwards. But the pot should never be heaped

with earth, a thing often done by those who give

water only at the bottom, in a saucer, or flat;

than which nothing can be more erroneous, as will '
be more fully shown in the sequel.

 

* 0F the propriety of doing so, see the article flztricuz’a, in. a
the Index of Work for August, 1). 284.

Z

. 354:, ’ or srmuss AND FLOWERS

Plants that require to be shifted into larger pots
than those they may he in, for the extension of
their growth, and which are not matted at root,
but whose pots are just full of fibres, should be
carefully taken out; it being proper, in this case,
to keep the balls entire. To this end, the earth
should be made in a state neither wet nor dry, by
previously giving water to, or withholding it from,
such plants as are intend< d to be shifted ; as, in
such a state, the ball will keep better together than
in any other. Observe the method of potting, as
directed above; and let the new pot be so much
larger than the ball, as that there may be a coat-
ing of fresh earth round it, as well as underneath.
1101' plants above the middle size, or u hose pots
exceed eight inches in diamete1, this coating of
new earth should be about an inch thick; that is.
to say, if.the old pot be seven, the new one should.
be nine inches diameter; and so in proportion, for
pots of different sizes

In all cases of potting, the new mould should
he rathei in a thy state than othe1w1se at the
time , in which state it divides easily, and can be
filled better 1n about the fibres, than when it is.
anywise wet, A small wedge-shaped stick should.

KEPT IN THE HOUSE. 355

he used, to trindle in the earth between the ball
and the sides of the pot, that there may be no ca-
vity left. After potting, the whole should be set-
tled by a moderate watering, and the plants should
be placed out of the sun for a few days.

Plants may be considerably invigorated, by a
top-dressing of fresh earth, (see the article Auri~
rula in the Index of \Vork for March), when shift—
ing or flesh-potting may be deemed improper.
The most expedient times for this - is just before,
or after winter, in order to help the plant on till
a general shifting take place, and should seldom
be practised on any other account; for if it sit
up, or become stinted in growth for any length of
time, it is better to reduce the ball, and fresh pot
it, as directed above.

It is proper, however, to keep the earth on the
surface of all pots fresh and open, by frequently
stirring it with the point of a stick, or with a small
wedge, in order to aid the descent of Water, and
that the roots may be benefited by the action of
the atmosphere ; neither of which can be the case
when the surface is‘ hard, or encrusted with a '.

mossy greenness ; a thing too often to be seem,

356‘ or snnUBs AND FLOWERS

but very wrong, and much against the health of
the plants.

4‘. 0f the Arrangement 9/1!le Plants.
‘Vhere‘ a few plants only are kept, and these in.
, the windows, little more need be said than that
they should be placed as near to the light as pos—
sible ;‘ and if in a double or treble row on a bench
or table, that the smallest snould be placed next
to the glass, and the largest farthest back, so that
they may all have as great a share of the sun and.
light as can be obtained. This is certainly the
natural order in which to place these plants; but
how often do we see that order reversed, merely
because they are better eithibited to the view of
the spectators in the room !

T hey, should never be placed much below the
level of the glass, but always so as that the sun.
may shine on the earth in the pots, aswell as on
the plants. Tall plants are often placed on the
ioor, whereby the sun is entirely excluded from
the pots, and his influence from the roots of the
plants; which is an error that operates much to
their detriment. '

Plants placed on small stages, fitted to the wine

KEPT IN THE HOUSE. 357

(lows, should also be carefully arranged, as above;
placing the lowest next the light, that the whole
may be as much exposed to it as possible. These
stages should be placed on castors, in order that
they may easily be moved from, or towards the
light at pleasure. If the window be towards the
full sun, the stages should be drawn back in the
middle of the day, for two or three hours, in very
hot, clear weather; and at other times, when it
may be necessary to shade some of the plants, for
the sake of preserving them longer in flower.

But there is another reason for having these
stages on casters or pivots, that of turning them
round to view the flowers at pleasure, and with
case. Also, by having them placed so, they could
be moved from one room to another with facility;
either to take advantage of sunshine in the short
days of winter, according as the rooms may he si-
tuated with respect to aspect; or from the morn-
ing- parlour to the drawing- room, and the cdntra—
ry. All this may be done without in the least dis-
turbing the plants, and at an expense not worth
mentioning. I

Plants placed in the lobby or hall, notperhaps
near to a window, but on tables, orschaifs‘, merely

 

358 OF suaues AND FLOWERS

—

to furnish them out, and take oflc from their dull

appearances, should never be let stand long so at

a time; but should be changed to a better situa-

tion occasionally, in order to recruit health, and

recover lost verdure. If we but half observe what

nature points out, the plants themselves will tell

what should be done. They will stretch their fee-

ble shoots towards the light, as much as to say,
“ Let me see the face of the sun, the fountain of
my life ! ”

But not only plants placed in such situations as
this, ,but all plants confined to the house, as to a
prison, stretch forth their feeble shoots to the sun,
as if calling out for help. If we are so cruel as
to restrain them this far, we ought to be so just as
not to distort them out of measure; especially
when such distortion can be so easily prevented;
i namely, by turning them round towards the light,
from time to time. By carefully observing to do
so, the necessity of pruning may also be, in a
great measure, prevented; and the trouble would
be more than repaid, in the pleasureof beholdiiig
hands onie and naturallv shaped plants.*

 

* It may be remark ed here, that by placing these plants in

the own ail, in the summer months, their health IS greatly re-
\.

91'

KEPT in THE HOUSE. 359

I need say little more on this subject, further
than to remark, that stages in the Green-roomyor
in any other room having only perpendicular win-
dows, should be brought as near to the light as
possible; and that they should be more elevated
and steep than those, in well~constructed green-
houses, where there are horizontal, as Well as up-
right glasses. '

 

novated, and they naturally grow into shape again of their own
accord. Even if they were occasionally placed in a sheltered,
and partly shaded situation, for a few weeks at a time, they
might be much benefited. It is necessary that the situation be
partly shaded, that is, from the full sun; otherwise, the plants
would be scorched, and be very much injured ; as, being removed
from the house in a feeble and languid state, they could not well ,
hold up against intense heat without doors, but by degrees.

Gardeners, therefore, in the management of green. house
plants, place them in the shade, (as on the north side of a wall
or high fence), for two or three weeks, after taking them out of
the house in May or June, in order to inure them, by degrees,
to bear the full sun and air; after which they generally place
them in a free situation, or plungedhem in the sln‘uhln‘y or {lower
plats, quite to the brims of the pets, that they may be kept the
more moist by the earth : So forming an exotic slimhhiy on the
instant.

Those who do not choose to empty their rooms altogether for
this purpose, of hardening and renovating the plants, might set
them out by turns, and keep the rooms always furnished, by sub-
stituting in their places a mixture of annual, and other common
plants.

360 or snRUBs AND FLOWERS

The aspect of a green-room may be at any point
from east to west, following the course of the sun ;
or it may even be a little to the north of east or
west; but only a little, and the less the better;
otherwise the plants will not generally thrive in it,

nor will the flowers acquire their natural colours. *

5. 0f W'atcring the Plants, and Keeping them Clean.
The rules for watering can only be general,
much depending on circumstances, and on the na-
ture and variety of the plants. To a regular and
iinute obserVer, they will almost tell their wants
themselves ; and it is only necessary, as it were,
to prevent those wants, in order to preserve and
continue them in health and beauty. In hot
weather, and when the plants are in a growing
state, they should be looked over once, or even

twice a-day; not. that every one is to have water

 

* The temporary arrangement of plants for the decoration of
rooms at fashionable entertainments, so much the tan at present,
being a matter of momentary fancy, it is unnecessary to enlarge
on it. I would remark, however, that though the guests he
sometimes starved, as hasheen said, these dumb innocents should
not be returned to the gardener, or florist, after two or three days
privaiion, perhaps, in a state more fit for the hospital than the
gl‘uClrilULlaL‘. ‘

‘KEPT IN THE HOUSE. , 361

so often, but only those that need. In cooler sea-
sons, on‘ce in two, or in three days, may be often
enough ; and in winter, once a week or ten days
may suffice. But plants in a state of total inacti-
\'ity require no water, further than to prevent the
earth about them from becoming a caput martuum,
or absolute dust.

In cold, dull weather, it is safer to give too lit-
tle, rather than too much water; whereas in hot, V
sultry weather, hardly enough can be given; espe-
cially to plants termed great drinkers, in a free
growing state.

Plants in light, absorbent earth, require more
water than those of the same kind placed in strong-
er, and more compact soils; and so of course the
contrary‘. But few plants, except such as may be
termed aquatiCs, can long endure stagnant Water
about their roots. Even the greatest drinkers,
that like to be oiten and thoroughly refreshed over
head, may be sickened in a short time, bya satu-
ration of water about their roots.

This fact leads me to condemn, in the strongest
terms, the practice of placing flats or saucers un-
der the plants, and feeding them by the roots on-

ly; that is, pouring the water continually into

362 or snmms AND FLOWERS

these dishes‘,'an'd never on the earth at top. The
water should always be poured on the surface of
the earth, that it may filter completely through it,
to the benefit and refreshment of the fibres.

I have no objection to the use of these dishes
for the sake of the furniture; but the water should
not be allowed to remain in them for a moment‘in
winter, or when the plants are in a state of inac-
tivity, otherwise the consequent destruction of the
roots follows.

In the better seasons of the year, the plants
should he often refreshed over head, in order to
clear the leaves from dust; which is of much im-
portance, with regard to their healths.

This should also be occasionally done in win-
ter; and the plants should either be carried to an
out—house, or the area, where the water that runs
off can do no harm; or they can be placed, one
after another, into a large tub, and so have water
poured from the rose of a watering pot, upon
them; or may have it thrown by a syringe, which
is a better method. The hardleaved kinds, such
as Oranges and Myrtles, may be cleaned with a
bit of sponge, with great facility; but this cannot

be done wiLh those of tender lL:lEage, without in-

KEPT IN THE noose. a 363

juring them less or more. Care should be taken,
however, to shake them well, in order to prevent
the water from lodging on their leaves, by which
(lamp, or mouldiness might be induced. Plants
kept in sitting rooms, or others, that are liable to
be often covered over with dust, should be clean~
ed (or dusted) every morning, by the help of a_
small bellows, besides being occasionally washed
over the leaves, or sponged, as above directed.

Bulliousrooted flowers, in earth, will require
regular and moderate supplies of water, from the
time they are taken into the house, till they begin
to sheet up their ilowe’r stems; and after that,
more freely, till fully blown; when the quantity
may again be lessened, in order to prolong the
season of their bloom. Those in glasses should
have the water changed every four or five days,
from the time their fibres begin to spring.

liain- water is to be preferred to any other, and
next to it, river or running water. Next, that of a
pond or pool, exposed to the sun and air; but
hard water ought not to be used, unless in a.
case of absolute necessity. Those who can ob-
tain no other should keep it in a vessel or cistern,

shallow, nd of a large surfiice exposed to the

364 or smums AND FLOWERS

sun and air, in order to soften it as much as pos—
sible.
6. Of Airing the Plants, and Ventilating t/ze Rooms.

The plants should have air, less or more, every
fresh day in the year, if their healths alone he
studied ; but this matter, in sitting-rooms, will
not of course be regulated for their sakes, espe-
cially in the colder seasons. If otherwise placed,
however, some attention should be paid to airing
and ventilating the rooms regularly, by opening
the windows, and occasionally the doors, in order
to excite a free circulation of air. This should
be done to a certain extent every day, according
to the state of the weather, except in the time of
severe frost, when it would not be advisable to ad-
mit external air. But at such times if bad wea-
ther he of long continuance, the rooms may be
ventilated by means of the doors, and by exciting
a current of air in the passages, or other parts of
the house.

In very severe frost, or in a continuation of
damp weather, moderate fires should he made for
the sake of the plants, if placed in rooms not oc-
cupied. The window-shuts should also be closed

KEPT IN THE HOUSE. 365

at night. If the mercury or spirits in Fahren-
heit’s thermometer fall much below 40°, the plants

cannot generally be safe.

7. 0f Training and Pruning tile Plants.

These plants and flowers should be neatly train~
ed to green painted sticks, or wires, (some like
white for the sake of contrast), and should be tied,
loosely, with bits of green worsted, or silk, on ac-
count of their softness; that is, the feeble kinds,
, and the stems of flowers, generally; for those that
are still' and bushy, and need no supporting, look
much better if let quite free and natural. At all
events, if trained, it should be in a manner as lit-
tle constrained as possible.

Little pruning should be necessary, if the plants»
be frequently turned round towards the light, as
advised above: further than to cut off the points
of any dead or moulded shoots, after winter; or
the decayed stems of flowers that have done
blowing. It is sometimes necessary to head down
Geraniums, and others of a straggling kind, that
naturally run into naked shoots as they get aged.

This should generally be done in the spring; at;
the same time reducing the ball of earth , and freshm

366 OF saunas AND FLOWERS

potting the plants, as directed above, under the
head Potting. Others may only be partially head-
ed down, or cut pretty much in, to cause them
push new shoots in certain parts, where wanted.

After such treatment, and after the plants have
been fresh potted, it would be much to their ad-
vantage if they could be sent to a proper hospital
for afew weeks; that is, to a mild stove, or hot-
bed: where their recovery would be more rapid,
under proper care, than. in the‘house.

At all times, and in whatever state of health
they may be, they should be carefully divested of
dead leaves, as they appear; and should be pruned
of moulded and decayed shoots; ‘which not only
disfigure the plants, but induce further decay, and
encourage the breeding of insects.

, 8. 0f Destroying Insects that annoy these Plants.
The insects that chiefly annoy these plants are
the green-fly, the red-spider, and the coccus, or
brown scaly insect. They may sometimes be
troubled with snails or worms, but these can ea~
sily be picked off, and so are (if little importance.
If the plants be troubled with the greenfly,
they should be placed in a close room, or closet,

KEPT IN THE HOUSE. 367

and should be fumigated for half an hour with to-
bacco. See the article, Destroying Insects, in the-
Index of Work for April. *- The red-spider can
only be suppressed by water; and of course the
‘ plants must be often watered or. syringed, if an-
noyed by this insect. See also the reference a-
bove, to April.

Myrtles, Oranges, and several others,_are most
liable to be troubled with the coccus, or brown
scale. If so, they should be carefully washed,
leaf by leaf, and shoot by shoot, with a bit of
sponge, dipt in soap and water; afterwards clean-

ing the whole plant with pure water.

 

9“ Those not provided with the fumigating bellows, may burn.
tobacco in a pot or dust-pan, until the closet be quite full of
smoke.

and 2mm mg 5

 

L I S T"
0? THE
ENGLISH AND LINNEAN NAMES- OF PLANTS;

MENTIONED IN THE COURSE OF THE WORK.

 

All the plants are to be considered as hardyy excepting
those ”which G. (Greenhouse) is added.— Where it
appeared necessmy todistinguis/z the duration gfpai'.
ticzzlar species, this is denoted by Me letters a. (an-
nual); b. (biennial); p. (perennial).

*.

English A'umc. Linncan N’ame.
Acacia, the two thorned, Robinia pseudo-acacia.
Adonis, a. Adonis autumnalis, Szc.

Alatemus, Common; gold and Rhamnus Alatemus, e; mi,

silver Notched ditto.

Alder, the cut—leuved, Betula alnus, var. seri‘ulata;
Almond, the doubledoworing, A m ygdalus pumila.
Amaranths, ’ ‘ Amaranthus tricolor, 8w.
-—--—-—-— Globe; G. Gomphraeua globosa.

Anzirrhimvms, a. A ntirrhinum triphyllum, speciow

 

sum, &c.
Appletrce, Pyrus RIalus.
'Apricot-tree, Prunus Armeniaca. ,
Arbor-vitae, the Chinese, Thuya orientaliq.
the common, —--—-— occidentalis.A

2A.-

370

Arbutus, several species,
Aria Theophrasti, or- White
Beam,

Artichoke, common,

 

~— Jerusalem,
Asparagus,

Astcrs, many species, 17.
China, vars. a.
Aucuba, Blotched-lenvcd, G.

A uricula,

 

P achelor’s- buttons,

Balm,

..__——' of Gilead,, G.

Basil.

Beans, many vars.

Beech, thejurple,

Beet,

Bell flower, Pyramidal,

Birch, the weeping,

Bird-cherry,

Borage,

Box tree, common and varie-
gated,

Briar, or Sweet Briar,

Emmet, Great,

Cabbaac man ' vars.
t1 )

Cauliflower,

ENGLISH AND LINNEAN NAMES.

Arbutus Unedo, Andrachnea,

Cratmgus Aria.

Cynara Scolymus.

Hclinnthus tuberosus;
Asparagus oflicinalis.

Aster spectabilis, amcllus, 85c,

Chinensis.

 

A-ucuba J aponica.

Primula Auricula.

Ranunculus acris, fl. pl.

Melissa ofliciimlis.
Dracoccphalum Canaricnse.
Ocymum Basilicum.

Vicia 'Faha.

Fagus sylvaticu, var.

Beta vulgaris.

Campanula pyramidalis,
Bemla alba, var.

Prunus Padus.

Borago ofiicinalis.

Buxus semper-vircns, et van

Rosa rubiginosa.

Sanguisorba oflicinalis.

Brassica olcracea.

\‘ar. capitata alba.

ENGLISH AND“ LINNEAN mums;- 371"

Savoys,
Brocoli; '

Campanulas, p. -

Candytuft, a.-
Cipsicum;
Caraway,

Cardinal’s Flower,‘ _
Cardoon,
Carnations, vars.
Carrot,

Catchfly, a.-

 

-— doublle,~
Cedar, the red,
of Lebanon;
Celery,
Cherry~tree, ,
Cherry, the wild, or gcan,
the double flowering,
Chcrvil,
Chives, or Cives,

Cistus, several Sp. G.

Chamomile,

Chrysanthemums, a. -

Chrysanthemum, Indian,

i'hzihrn, Tree, G.

var. Sabauda, &c. ‘
-—— Botrytis:

Campanula medium; pyramids-x
lis, 8w.

Iberis umbellata, &c. '

Capsicum annuum. a

Carum Carui.

LobeIia Cardinalis. '

Cynam Carduncul'us.

Dianthus Caryophyllfis. '

Daucus Cnrota.

Silent: Lusitanica, quinque—vuI--
nem, &c. V

Lychnis VisCaria, fl. pl.

Junipems Virginiana. .

Pinus Cedrus.

Apium graveoiens. \

Prunus Cetasus.

Prunus m'iun}.

Prunus Corasus, fl. pl. ‘

Scandix Cexefulium. ’

Allium Schoenopmsum.

Cistus roseus, formosus, Cruin
cus, &c.

Anlhcmis nobilis.

Chrysanthemum coronarium,
tricolor, «M: ‘

Chrysanthemum Indicum.

Clcvthra :uburca.

‘372

Cockscombs, (stove);
Cockspur Thom, »
Columbines,

Colutea, Scarlet, G.
Convolvulus, a;

Coriander,

Coronilla, Seven-leaved‘, G.
€owslip, American,

€rab, {he Siberian,
Crancsbills, border.

Cress, common,
.._—— Black American,
——-——- Indian,
Crinum, Broad-leaves},
Grocuscs,
Crown Imperial;
€urrant-bush,
Red and White.
Black,

Cyclamens,
Cypress, the upright;
Daisies, red, white; and pro-

liferous,

Daglmg Sweetrscentcd, G.

ENGLISH AND LINNEAN NAMES.

Celosia cristata.

Cratwgus C rus- G'all'r.‘

Aquilegia vulgaxis, Cauadensifiy
Sac.

Culutca fruteseens.

Convolvulus tricolor, &c.»

Coriandrum satiivum.

C cronilla glauca.

Dodecatheon Meadia.

Pyrus prunifolia.

Geranium \I’haeum‘, slriutrurr,
é'zc.

chidium sativum.

.._....—_.— Virginicum.

Tropwelum majus.

Crinum Americanum.

Crocus vernus, flaws, 8m.

Fritillaria lmpcrialis.

Ribes rubrum, et var.

—---— nigrum.

Cyclamen Europmum, Comm-,-
&c.

Cupressus sempervircns.
Bellis percnnis, var.

Daphne odora.

ENGLISH AND LIN‘NEAN fiAMES»

Eldermommonandvniegnted,
Elm, the variegated,
Endive,

Everlasting, G. nu‘ma'ous

Fennel,

Fig-tree.

Foxgloves,

French Beau,
Scarlet Runner,
“'hite Runner,

Fuchsia, Scarlet, G.

Garlick,

Golder Rose,

'0 emlnns, p.

Gentianella,

Geraniums ( Palargoniuxm) G.
numerous,

Germandor, different, Sp. G.

tiiliifiowex, Smck, 1:. vars.

Glastonbury Thorn,

-XIrlohc-, 0r Globe A mammh, G.

filobulnrla, the common,

vGoogeberr; 4313]),

Gourds,

Hazel, the common, andfniberd,

I?m:'k':‘~lu'ard ,. a.

373

.Samhtcus oigra, et var.

Ulmus campostris, vat.

Cichon'um Endiva.

G naplxaiium m-icoides‘, gmzdifih
lium, 8w.

Anethum aniculum.

Ficus Carina.

Digitalis lutca, fermgiaea, &n.

Phaseolus vulgaris.

---.--- var. cocci mes.

var. alha.

Fuchsia. coccinea.

 

Allium sativum.

Viburnum Opulus, var.

Gemiaua luteu, purpuma, 85¢.

Gentiaua acaulis.

Pclargonium tricolor, inguinam,
&.c. _

Teucrium Marum, l’olium, In}.

C-lmiramhus incanus.

Cmta‘gus Oxyscantlxa, var.

Gomplxrazna glolwsa.

Globularia \‘ulgaris, fie.

Ribcs grossularia.

Cucurblta. Melopepo, 8w.

Corylus Avcllana, 8t van

(J‘L‘ ‘l‘- Yul)!“ 5814931 '33:";-
l
u

£374: ENGLISH 'AND L'IN-N‘EAN ‘ NAMES.

I

Heaths, or Ericmmumerous, G. ‘ Erica formosa, ampullacea't;

' Hepatica, . Anemone Hepatica.

Holly.common,>and variegated, * Ilcx Aquifolium, et var.

Hollyhocks, vars. ‘ Althm rosea.

Honeysuckle, French, b. IIedysurum Coron'arium.

Hornbeam,‘ the flop, ‘ Carpinus Ostrya.

Horse chcsnut, thevariegatcd,
Horse- radish , -
Hyacinth,

Hydrangea, Tree, or Shrub'oy,
Hyssop,

Iris, Persian,
-——- Bulbous,
Ixia, many species.

Japan-rose, G.

Jasmine, common,

— Yellow Indian, '6.
Jonquil,

 

Juniper, the common,
w-——-—- Swedish,

Jupiter’s Beard, G.

. Lnburnum,
'Larkspur, (1.
Laurel, the Portugal,

v...—

 

broad-leaved,

Wauruatlnua,

,IEsculus Hippocastanum, vat.
‘ Cochlearia Armoracia.

‘ Hyacinthus orientalis.

Hydrangea. arborescens.

V‘Hyssopus officinalis.

' Iris Persica.
, —— Xiphium.

"Ixia rosea, villoga, 6w.

"Camellia Japonica.

Jasminum oflicinale.

-— odomtissimum.

 

Narcissus Jonquilla,

Juniperus communis.

 

Su ecica.

'Anfhemis Barba-Jovis.

‘ Cytisus Laburnum.

'Delphinium Consolida, & Ajzm'sr-
l’runus Lusitanica.

—4 La‘u’ro- C erasus,

 

Viburnum Tinus.

>mausu AND LINNEAN 'NAKEG. 975

iavender, ,

Lavatera, a.

Leek,

Lemon-tree, G.
Lettuce,

Lilac, purple, and white,
Lily, Belladonna,
Jacobea,

 

—- Mexican,
of the Valley,

Lime, the American,

 

London-pride,
Love-apple,
Love-lies-a-bleeding,
Lupines, a.

Lychnis, Scarlet,

Mallows, a.

 

 

I‘Taples,

Marigold, common,
French,
African,

~iliarjmram,
Marvel of Peru, 11,
Medlar,
Mignionette,
Mushroom,
Mustard,

. 3131111,

' Saudi; odorata.

Lavandula Spica.
Lavatem trimestris, 85c.
'Allium Pomm.

Citrus Medica.

~Lactuca sativa.

Syringa vulgaris, et var.
Amaryllis Belladonna.

formosissima.

 

Regime.

 

"Convallaria Majalis.

Tilia Americana.

‘ Saxifraga umbrosa, &c.

Solanum Lycopersicum.

Amaranthus caudatus.

'Lupinus luteus, albus, &c.
- Lyclmis chalcedonica.

Malva crisps, Hispanica, 8m
Acer campestri, rubrum, &c
Calendula oflicinalis.

Tagctes patula.

erecta.

 

Origanum Marjorana.
Mirabilis Jalapa.
Mespilus Gel-mania.
Reseda odorata.
Agaricus campestris.

Sinapis alba.

S76

-Myrtles, var.

, .
harcxssus, common,

 

 

for flow'er—lgksses,
'Nectariue-tree,

(Oak, the evergreen,
*Oak, Llwombe,

 

Spa 0 kh, or away cupped,
01 i ve— tree, G.
» O nion,

-Orange-tree, G.

'Parslcy,
Pal-snip,

.Passion flowers,

Peach-tree,

Pear-tree,

Peas,

Penuyroyal,
Peony-rose,
Peppermint,

Phillyrea, broad-laced,

narrow-leaned,

P..—

 

Pinks, p.

 

- Indian, a.
Platanus, the oriental,
W... the accidents“,

INGIJISK AND LINHEAN' “AME!-

Myrtus commun.

Narcissus pocticus.

‘Nm‘cissus tazeta, poeticus, 8n:

Amygdalus I‘crsica, var.

'Quercus Ilex.
Quercus Robur, war.

 

— IEgilops.

,Olea Europa-4.

Ailiqm Cepa.

Citrus Auraminm.

Apium Petroseliuum.

Pastinaca sativa.

:Passifloro- coerulea, quadrangmlapa
ris, 8:0.

Amygdalus l’ersica.

~Pfl'us communis.

Pisum sativum.

Mamba Pulegium.

,I‘aeonia ofiicinalis, temfifizlin, 3n;

Mentha Piperim.

:Phyllyrea latifoLia.

,—-—---— angustifolia.

Dianthushortensis, 83..

 

Chinensis.
Platanus orienmhs.

~—--—-—~ occidentafis

ENGL‘IBK AH!) LIDE’EAN N'ALMESn

i-P‘xatanus, the Spanish,
Plum-tree,

Polyga‘la, several Sp.
I’oh’anthus.

Poplar, the Balsam,
-—-—— Carolina,
—— the Lombardy,
Poppies, Garden,
Potato, var.
l’rifnroses,

.Primrose, Tree, E.
Prince's Feather,
Privet, the evergreen,
'Proteh, ditferem: 9p.
'I’umkin,

.l’urslane,
Quince~tree,

Radish,
Ranunculuses, Garden,

' Raspberry-bush, Red,white, &c.
Robinia, at Rose Acacia,
Rocambole,

Rockets or Dame Violets, b.

.! Loses, common,

 

- (for green-room),
——— I‘vIoss,

,.-.._ Japan,

377

‘Platanus acerif‘olia.
.Pmnus domestics.

Poiygala myrtifolia, 8m.
Primuia elatior, &c. m.
l’opulus balsamifera.

 

- angulata.

- dilatata.

 

Papaver somniferum, ur.
Sohmum tuberosum.

.Prinmla elation, Helvetica, 8m:
(Enothera biennis.

Amaramhus hypochondfizcus.
Ligustrum vulgarc, vm'.

Protea pulchella, rosaeea, 8m.
Cucurbita Pepe.

VPortuiaca OIWJCB...

Pym: Cydonia.

Raphanus sativus.
Ranunculus Asiaticus.
Rubus Idwus.

Robinia hispidn. ,

Allium Scomdoprasum.
Hesperis matronalis, fl. pl.
Rosa cemifolia.

Indica, Chinensis, .&c.

muscosa.

 

 

Camellia Japonica.

378

Rose-bay, G.
Rose- Campion,

Rosemary,
Rue, -

Sage, Garden,

(for green-room),

 

St John’s Wort, many species,

Salséfy,
Savory,

 

winter,
Saxi-frage, double white,
Pyramidal,
Scabious, Sweet, 5.
Scorzonera,
Survygrass,
Sea-Cale,
‘ Service, broad ‘ and narrow-
Ieaved,
-Simddock Tree, G.
Shailot,
' Skirret,
Sorb, !or Mountain Ash.
Spanish Chesnut, the striped,
Spearmint,
' Spinage,

\SpindIe-tree,

ENGLISH “AND'LINNERN‘NAME’Sa

"Nerium Oleander.

Agrostemma Coronaria,’ Flas—
Jovis, &c.

‘Rosmarinus officinalis.

-Ruta graveohens.

"Salvia ofiibina‘iis.

——-- c‘occinea, Cretica, &c.

"Hypericum Canariense, reflex»
um, 8m.

' Tragopogon porrifolius.

: Satureja hortensis.

 

- montana.

Saxifraga granulata, fl. pienQ;
"Saxifraga. Cotyledon.
"Scabiosa atropurpurea.
~Scorzonera Hispanica.

‘ Cochlearia. officinalis.

Crmnbe maritime.

Sorbus domestica, var.
'

Citrus Decumana.
\Allium Ascalonicum.
Sium Sisarum.
Sorbus Aucuparia.
Fagus Castanea, var.
Mentha viridis.
Spinacia oieracea.

Euonymus Europeans:

ENGLISH AN‘D LINNEAN ‘NAMES.

‘ Spurgeo laurel,
‘ Snowdrop,
Sorrel,
Strawberry,
Scarlet,
Chili,
Hautboy,
Wood,
Alpine,
‘ Strawberry-tree,
Sultan, Sweet, 11.
Sunflower, a.
Sweet Pea,
‘ Sweet William,
Sycamore, the variegated,
Syringa, or Mock Orange,

Tansy,

Tarragon,

Thorn, the common, double
flowering: and scarlet,

Thrift, or Sea Pink,

Thyme, ‘

Tuberose, G.

Tulip, common,

- Pottebacker, Sec.

- Van To],

Tulip-tree,

 

 

11711)“),

879

'Daphue Laureola.
‘ Galantlius nivalis.

A Rumex acetosa.

Insane, Virginidnt.

—-«=—'-- Chiloensis.

elation

 

- vesca.
- alpina.
Arbutus Unedo.

 

 

' Centaurea maschap‘.

Heliamlius animus.

.Lpthyrus odoratus.

i Diamhus barbatus.

Accr pseudo-platanus, va'n

~1’hiladelphus coronarius.

Tanacetum Vulgate.
Artemisia Dracunculus.

Crataegus Oxyacamha, var. .

Suitice Almeria.
Thymus vulgaris.
>Polyauthus tuberosa.
'Tulipa Gesneriana.
var.

 

 

— suaveolens.
Liriodendron tulipifem.

 

Brassica Rapa.

380

Valerian, Garden,
. Greek,
Venus’s Looking-glass,

 

Veronica, p. many species,

 

—-- Cross-lowed, G.
"clrvnin, Three-leaved,
Viburnum,
Vine, Grape,
Violets,
Pansy or Heart’s ease,
Sweet or March,
Double,

~Violet, Dog'svtooth,

\Vallflover,
\Valnut, the common,

- ‘he "Virginian,
'Willow, the pear-leaned,

._..

 

Huntingdon,

 

sweet-scented,

 

the weeping,

\Vormwood,

Yew-tree,

1:249er unrmmw mums.

Valeriana Phu.
Polemonium coeruleum, var.
Campnnula Speculum.
Veronica Virginica, incaua, ma-

ritime, &c.

— decussata.

Verbena triphylla.
Viburnum Lamaua, 8m:

Vitis vinifcra.

Viola tricolor. -
———- odorata.
-—-—-— odorata, 5. pl.

Erytlwonjum Dens (Janis.

C heiranthus Cheiri.

J uglans rogia.

 

nigra.
S‘Liix cinerea.
.———— z‘cha, tar.
_— pemandm.
——-—-—- Babylonica.

Artsmisia Absimlfium.

Taxus baccata.

 

INDEX.

 

 

A

Page
A (Arms, or red spider, how to destroy the, 175
Achin pear described, - - 38
Admirabic pinch, described, - 36
Aphis or green Hy, of destroying. the, - 161-
Apples, kinds 01', enumerated, - ‘24-, 27-
__.______._ described, - 27, BL
._-——.— of pianting, - - 61', 321, 33‘}
-———— 0i pruning and training, 58, 213, 236, 258
_——————-— of gathering and storing, . 305
Apricots, kinds cf, enumerated, - . 24.
________ described, - - 31
-——————— of planting, - GS, 321, 334»
.._—_— of pruning and training, 66,. 211, 236,

_ 253, 278
—-—--—-— of screening the blossoms of, - 157
of thinning the. fruit of, 215, 237, 258

.__.._... of gathering the fruit of, - 279*

 

882 3 INDEX;
Pega—
Appr-oach, of the line of, to a villa, - 11
Artichokes, culture of, . 109, 14,5, 197, 331
Asparagus, culture of, 111, 113, 145, 197, 332 '
Aspects for wall-trees, of the proper, - 23, 26
Auriculas, culture of,‘ 105,139, 190, 219, 243,-
284, 308
Autumn bergamot pear described, - 38
Awning for shadingflowers, of an, 138, 191, 266~

B:

Basil, culture of, ' . - . 19,1,
Beans, culture of, . 55, 93, 1M, 146,199, 226, 313,

3:43
Beet, culture of, - 11.1., 146, 199’. 226
————" of storing for winter use, - .. 313
Black'American cress, culture of, 121, 275, 303
Black heart cherry described, - _ 33 -
Blanchiug sca-cale, method of, - - 154~
Blossoms of fruit trees, of screening the, - 157
Blue Ischia fig described, - - - 34.
Blue Perdrigon plum described, - . 42
Burage, culture of, . - . 195. _

Borders for. wall trees, of their breadth, — 13 _.

:— depth, - 19 ,
._ V —— how to prepare, - 19, ‘20 ~
Box edgings, of planting, - 183,218, 359 ‘
.——.—.— ' of cutting, - 184, 264‘, 282- .
Breda apricot described, . . . . 3g, ‘

W

 

 

 

won. 383

Page.
Brocoli, culture of,» 115, 14-6, 200, 226, 240,314
Brussels apricotdescribed, - -V 32'

 

sprouts, culture of, 116, 146,.200,'226,-'81L¥
Bulbous flowers, general care of, 91, 137, 193, 340,

 

 

 

- 317'
..___—...—— of. taking up, - 244, 269
_.._.__— of planting, - , 92, 323
— for forcing, of, . - - ' 348
Bullace plum described, - - . 42 ‘
Burie pear described, - - - . |38-
Buzelars, often preferred to espaliers, ' - 15
kinds of trees fittestfor, , I - 26 ‘

 

 

C.
Cabbage, culture of, 9+, 116, 146, 200; 226,271, 314' :
_—_— —-——-~ method of obtaining early spring, 315 -.

 

Canker in fruit-trees, of the, - - 80‘
Canvas shades for flowers, of, - 138, 191‘
—- screens for fruit-tree blossoms, of, 158 .
——————.-«,——, how to construct, and apply, 159 ‘
Capsicums, culture of, - - 201, 226 -
Caraway, culture of, - - - 125 V
Cardoons, culture of, - , - 201, 226, 249
Carlisle codling apple described, - - 31
Carnations, culture of, 1,42, 221, 243, 265, 282, 300‘
Carnock pear described, . - - - A 39
Carrot, cultureof, - - . 95, 1436, 202, 226-

 

-— of storing, for winter use, - 316m

384' \ neon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

, Page;
Carrot are excellent food for milch cows, 146‘
Caterpillars, how to destroy, - 168, 175'
Cauliflower,,culture of, 9.5, 116, 147, 203, 226, 250
272, 316
---———-—--- of storing for winter use, — 317
Celery, culture of, 96, 117, 14.8, 204, 226, 270, 2727
Chalk,.of its application to soils,. - 17, 18
-——--—- is good for car-nations, - - 14-3
Cherries, kinds of, described, - - 32
—-- of planting, - - 66. 321, 33%-
——-——--— of pruning and training, 68, 218, 239, 258
---——-—' of‘ defending from birds, - 238
Chervil, culture of, 59, 101, 122, 276, 303, 319'
Chives, 0f planting, - ~ - 96
Ccccus, or scaly insect,sof destroying the, 177,371
Colew-nrts, of planting, - - 250, 272
Colmar pear described, - - 37
Compost earth for auriculas, of, - 236
-—- —— for carnations and pinks, 141
--—--—- for different bulbous flowers, 324, 328'
-—-— for ranunculuses, 8m. - 33
for'plants kepr'in the house, 350
Cressa-ne pear described, - - 37‘

Cresses, culture of, 59, 101-, 121, 122, 276, 303, 319
Cucumbers, for pickling, culture of, 205, 232, 252

 

Currants, kinds of; described, - - 4-1»
--- of planting, - 43, 85, 132, 321
-—----—- of pruning, - 86, 132, 216

_-———.- of diggingthe ground among, 95, 306, 321i

INDEX, - 38a ‘ "

 

 

 

Page.

Currants, of destroying caterpillars on, _ 170
of netting up, to preserve, . - 281 ;

D...

Deciduous treesand shrubs, oF planting, 88, 103,133, *
322 ‘

hedges, of planting, , 89, -.-103, 322

Disbudding various wall-trees, of, ~ - 211

Distance at which to plant fruit-trees». - 42

small fruits, - 43

various shrubs, 50

Draining, the importance of, .in gardening, 18

-— potted plants, of extra moisture, of, 284v
Drawing-room, culture of plants kept in the, _ 34,4.

 

 

 

Due de Tello nectarine described, - 35
Ducks, of their usefulness in the garden, V 173
Earwigs, how to ensnare and destroy, 263, £367
Edgings to walks, of planting, 107, 134, 186
—-.——.—---— of dressing, 187, 264, 282
Eli‘uge nectarine described, - - 3/11
.Endive, culture of, - 233, 953, 273, 291
Engrafiing old fruit-trees, of, . - . 131
Entrance gates to villas, of their situation, 12
Espaliers, of the situations for, - -_ M
— of the construction of, - ' llh'
-—-——-—-. kinds of trees for, _ - 26

21;

386 INDEX.

Page.
Espaliers, distance at which to plant trees on, 42

F.

 

 

\
Fairchild’s early nectarine described, - 35-
Fences proper for villa grounds, of, - 3
made of cast-iron and wire, - 7
-—-—-—-- deciduous, of planting, - 1’03, 323‘
. .—.—.— evergreen, of planting, -_ 180, 264
of training all kinds of, - 184-, 339'
Fennel, culture of, - - . 125:
Figs, kinds of, described, - 4. 33,.
.._-- of planting, - - - 61
-'_.—,— of pruning and training, - 69, 261
Flower-ground, situation of the - 9
———--—— manner of laying out the, 15

 

__._._

 

I

 

of digging and hoeing the, 107, 311
Flowers, general culture of, 105, 136, 188, 19%, 219,
241, 270, 282, 308, 324, 335, 3401

._......-—— the colour of, affected by the colour of
soils, - - - 35‘,
....—.-—— kinds of, for the drawing room, &c. 344
Force- -pump engine, of its general usefulness, 176v
Forming grass walks and‘plats, of, -. 134,.
'Fotheringham plum described, - . 471
Frame for auriculas described, . . ‘ 190
French beans, culture of, 117, 148, 206, 253, 255
Fr uits, the colour of, affected by the colour of soils, 35
.—-u—- of thinning stone, - 215, 237, 268
——- of gathering stone, . 2.79.

INDEX; 387'

 

 

Page.

Fruit-tree borders, of the proper depth of, 13’

———————--—— how to form and prepare, 19
Fruit-trees, kinds of, enumerated, -- - 24-, 27 s

—— described, - 27, 42

distance at Which to plant, - 42

-——-——-—- of planting, - 60, 129, 320, 386
-—-—-—— of pruning, - 68, 129, 211, 336
-————-——-— of heading down stinted, 76, 78, 129
new planted, ' 129

 

 

of watering new planted, - 156

————-— of destroyinginsects on, 78,164, 238, 262
280, 306

————--———~— canker on, - 80

—————- of screening the blossoms of, 132, 157
Fumigations, how to perform on fruit-trees, 165
on bushes, 166'
on potted plants, 367

 

 

G.
Gage plums- described, - - . - 40
Gansell’s bergamot pear described, - 39
Garden walls, of the proper height of, - 13
Garlic, culture of, 7- - - 55, 97, 274'
German greens, culture of, 149, 206, 233, 251

Gogar pippin apple described, - - 31
Golden pippin apple described, 9 - 27
-—-—-— russet apple described, - - ‘ 29-
—- _—. rennet apple described, - - , '31:

Gooseberries, at the distance of which to plant, 43:;

338 INDEX,

 

 

 

Page.

Gooseberries, kinds “of, described, - 44.
—--—-——---— of planting, - 85, 132, 321
—-—-—- _ of pruning, - 86, 132, 216
-——-——--—-——- of digging the ground among, 102, 306
322

-- of destroying caterpillars on, 168
Gourds, culture of, - - - 208
Grass walks, and plats, of forming, - 132
Grass and gravel walks, verges, &c. care of, 90, 105,
, 188
Green-room, culture of plants kept in the, 344‘

Grouping trees and shrubs, of the manner of, 50
Grub, a kind of caterpillar,.how to destroy the, 169

 

H.
Hamburgh parsley, culture of, - 5G
Hawthorndean apple described, - - 30
Heading down stinted fruit trees, of, 76, 78, 12?)
——-——~ —— new planted trees, of, - ib.
Hedges, of planting deciduous, 89, 1.03, 323

~_....

 

_-___-,_._.____ evergreen, 18-1, 2643 218, 289

—--—--'- of clipping deciduous, 89, 185,264, 33,

~~~~~~ -————-— evergreen, 18, 171, €264», €282
Herbs, pot, culture of, - 1243 256, 277
~—-—-—- medicinal, culture of, - 129, 25L, ib,
Holman’s duke cherry described, - 33
Horse-radish, culture of, - . 97

droppings produce mushrooms, ~~ :39‘3

 

Hurdles, use of, as fences, in villa grounds, :3

I.
Page.
Jargonelle pear described, « - 37
Jerusalem artichokes, culture of, - 117
Improvement of soils, of the, - - '17
Indian cress, culture of, - - 122 V ‘

Insects, on fruit-trees, of destroying, 78, 164', 210
'233, 262, 280, 306

 

 

 

-— on bushes, of destroying, '- 178
-—-~——— on house-plants, of destroying, 367
Iron and wire-fences, of, - -x . ’
K.
Kentislt codling apple described, - ‘ 31
—- cherry described, - - 33
Kitchen garden, of the proper situation for the, 7
-~—-——-—- of laying out the, ‘ - 13
L. _
Late purple peach described, - - 36
La royale plum described, - - 41
Lakes, seldom admissible in villa grounds, 9
Leadington apple described, - - 31
Leeks, culture of, - 98, 117, 149, 234:
Lettuce, culture of, 59, 101, 122, 278, 303, 319
Lime, advisable for garden ground, - 18

 

of the application of, - . 18, 109
——--— good for carnations, . . 143

.390 .mnzx.

. Page.
_ Lime, good for oranges, - - 350
Liquor for destroying—insects, how to prepare the, 79
Lobby, management of plants kept in the, 3114

 

Longueville pear described, - - 40
Love apple, culture of, - - 206
. M.

Magnum bonum plum described, - 41
Manures, various kinds of, and their application, 17, 18
Marigold, culture of, - - - 125
Marjoram, cultureof, - - ib.
Marl, of the application of, to soils, - 18
—-—— good for carnations, - - 143
’ -——- good for oranges i. *- 350
May duke cherry, described, - 732
‘Medicinal herbs, culture of, - 128, 258, 276
Mildew, on fruit .trees, of the, - - 81
Mint, culture of, - - - 126
Montabon peach described, - - 36
Moorfowl egg pear described, - 39
Morella cherry described, - - 33
More Park apricot described, - — 31
Mulching new planted fruit trees, of, 156, 178
————-—-————-—— shrubs, . - 183
Murray nectarine described, - - 35
Mushroom beds, of making up, - 118, 291
Mushrooms, culture of, - - 293
-—————--- is a curious process, ib.

 

 

-—-——-———— different kinds of, described, ‘299

INDEXv 391

Page.

Mushrooms, of gathering - ‘ - 300

' Mustard, culture of, - 59, 101, 122, 276
N.

Nectarines, kinds of, enumerated, - 25

— described, - 34'

-—-—--- of planting, - 60, 321, 33-11

-—-—-—-——— of pruning and training, 70, 215, 236,

258, 278

~——-—-—-—- of screening the blossoms of, 157

--———— of thinning the fruit of, 215, 237, 258
—--—— the leaves of, 304', 320

of gathering the fruit of, - 279
Nets, of their use in screening fruit-tree blossoms, 158

 

 

 

how to place over fruit-trees, - ib.
particular kind of, described, - 161
their great use in the garden, > - 162

 

-—— of preserving cherries by, from birds, 238
-—--—-—-— late currants, from birds, 281

 

Noblesse peach described, - - 36
Nonpareil apple described, - - 29
0.

Oil, of destroying insects with, - 263, 267

Oil-cloth, of its use in the conducting of fumi-
gations, - - - - 16.5
Onions, culture of, 56, 98, 118, 149, 207, 234‘, 273, '
' 300

~ 392 .2“ mm.

 

 

 

 

 

, "Page
' Orange apricot described, - -- - - g2
Orchard-fruits enumerated, - - 24
--——-- described, -' 27 to 42
Orchard-trees, of planting, - :- 6-1
—-————--——- of pruning, . . 82
--—-—-—--—-—a-Iof clearing-from moss, - 84:
————— ---r of destroying insects on, - 78
Orleans plum described, - - «- 4‘3
Oslin pippin apple described, . - 28
zap
' Parsley, culture of, - - 56, 99, 118, 302
~— - of preserving for winter use, - 302
Parsnip, culture of‘, - “118, 147, 208, 235
—-——- - good food for milch cows, - 119
.. - of storing for winter use, - 318
Parterres, o'f'situations for, - . - 10
—— »- of forming, - - 16
Peaches, kinds of,'enumeratcd, - 25
-———-——;-—---— described, - - 35 '

 

— of planting, - - 6], 321, 334.
~-——-—-— of pruning and training, 70, 215, 236, 258,

278,30i
___.— of screening the blessoms of, - 157
-——--——-— of thinning the fruit of, - 215, 237, 958
..__ _____ —-— the leaves of, - 304', 320
.._..———— of gathering the fruit of, - . 279
Pearmain apple described ~ - - ~ 31

Pears, kinds of‘, enumerated, -

' mnax. ' 3'93

 

 

 

Page

Pears, kinds of. described, ‘ - ' - 37:
of planting, - - 61, 321, 33%

—-——- of pruning and training, 61, 213, 236, 258
— of screening the blossoms of, - 157
—— of thinning the fruit of, - - 258
—————-————-— the leaves of, - 304, 320
of gathering and storing - 305

Peas, culture of, 57, 99, 119, 150, 208,235, 318,333
Pinks, general whim: of, 142, 221, 243, 265, 282,
‘ 310

Planting deciduous trees and shrubs, 88, 322, S34
- evergreen trees and shrubs, 180, 264‘, 282
various flowers, 105, 136, 188, 224, 247.
‘ 288, 310, 323

 

 

 

 

 

--————- fruit-trees, ' - 60, 129, 321, 334'
- small fruits, - 85, 102, 132, 321

Plats, grass, 01' forming, 8w. - 134:
Plums, kinds of, enumerated, - ‘ - 25
—— — described, - . 4-‘0
—- of planting, - - 66, 321, 331
-—— of pruning and training, 66, 215, 236, 278
~—-—- of screening the blossoms of, - 157

 

of thinning the fruit of, - 215, 237, 258
' Polyanthuses, making slips of, - - 192
-—-- of sowing slips of, - 139
- of transplanting, - 192, 193
Potatoes, culture of, - 100, 119, 151, 208, 235
Pot-herbs, culture of, - ~ ‘ 124, 256, 277
——- gathering to dry, “of, - ‘ 256

 

 

 

 

394 'mnzx.

 

 

 

 

 

P e
Potted plants, general care of, 91, 142, 189, 2282,
243, 309
Pots for auriculas described, - - 284
-—-— for carnations described, - - 143
' for stocks, rockets, &c. described, - 287
-—for bulbous roots described, - 348
Pruning apples and pears, - 68, 2,11, 2111c
apricots, cherries, andplums, 66, 21.1, 33,1.
currants and gooseberries, 85, 216, 334

-—— figs, - -. — 69, 261 ,
—— nectarines and peaches, - 70, 211
-—-- orchard~trees, - - 82, 334:
—-—— raspberries, - - - 85, 216
shrubs, - . - - 103
-- plants kept in the house, - 368
(Pumpkins, culture of, - . 203
iPurslane, culture of, . - - 1‘23
Quince stocks, of grafting pears on, - 26

R
Radish, culture of, 59, 101, 124‘, 277, 304-, 319
Raspberries, of the distance at which to plant, 44'

 

~————--— kinds of, described, - - 1b.
—-———--—— of planting, - 85, 132, 321

of pruning ‘ - 87, 1,32, 216
———'——— of digging the ground among, 1041.321

ERad Magdalen peach described, - 36

won, 395

 

 

Page

Red spider, howto destroy the, - . 175
Ribston pippin apple described, - 28
'Ridging up ground, of, - . 334-, 338
Bills, of adorning the sides of - - 9
Roses, of pruning, - - 103, 239
——- of making beds of, - - 24-0
Royal codling apple described, - - x 30
- pearmain apple described, - - 31

- russet apple described, ‘- -‘ 29

S

Scots bergamot pear described, - - 40
‘St Germaius pear described, - - - 39
Sage, culture of, - - - 126
Salsat'y, culture of, - 120, 151, 209, 319
Savory, culture of, - - - 127

Savoys, 'culture of, - 120, 151, 209, 235, 248
Scorzonera, culture of, - 120, 151, 209, 319
Sea-cale, culture of, - - 151, 209, 333
Sea-weed, a good manure for clayey soil, - 18

- for artichokes, 109, 331
for asparagus, 111, 332
for sea-sale, 145, 330

 

—_ —_ ——_—._—-

 

 

 

Skirret, culture of, - 120, 151, 209, 319
Shallots, culture of, - 58, 100, 121, 255, 274
Shrubbry, situation for the, - - 9
Shrubbry, of digging the, - 104, 322

—— of dressing off the, - 133, 187, 322
Shrubs, of the arrangement of - - 15

Shrubs, kinds of} for villa grounds, - 1.. 4‘7

396 i‘NbEX.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

' Page:
Shrubs, distances at which to plant, I -‘ i 50
———-—— of planting deciduous, 82, 133, 322, 334
—--—-——-—---—~-- evergreen, 89,103,180,264«,282

of pruning evergreen, - 103
Slugs and snails, bow to destroy - 177, 264'
Sorrel, culture of, - - - 124:
Spinage, culture of, - 58, 100, 121, 274, 302, 319
Stage-frame for auriculas described, - 190
Standard-fruits, kinds of, enumerated, '- 27
Strawberries, kinds 01', described, - 4‘
—- distance at which to plant, - ih.

'--——-————- of planting, - 132, 180, 281
—-———‘----- of watering, - - 180, 217
._._...__- divesting of runners, of, - ib. ib.

-,—-- of digging the rows of, - 307, 321
Swan-egg pear described, - - 38
T

Tansy, culture of, - - - 127
Tarragon, culture of, ‘ - - - ib-
Thinning wall-fruits, of, - 215, 237, 258
—— the leaves of wall-trees, of, - 3044
Thrips, how to destroy the, - - 167
—— are very mischievous - - 168
Thyme, culture of, - - ' - 127

Training the summer-shoots of wall-trees, of, 236,

258, 278, 30%
——-—--—- all kinds of hedges, - - 183
—— climbing shrubs, - - 239, 265
Tree; and shrubs, kinds of, for villa grounds, 4'7, ~19.

 

mmsx. 3'97 -

. Page
Trees, arrangement of, - -' - 50, 5'2
Trenching ground, of, , - - 834, 340
Turnip, culture of, 121, 155, 209,236, 256, 275.
' 302 .

-————- yellow Dutch, the best kind for winter

use, - - « 256
V

Vegetable earth of tree—leaves, of the virtues of, 351
Villa gardens, on the formation of, - 1 to 16

 

grounds, kinds of trees and shrubs for, 48, 49
arrangement of trees in, . 50, 52

 

 

Villas, of the external appearance of, - 2
-—-—-— of situations for, - ~ 7 lb.
-——- of the happiest situation for, ’ - 9 ,
Vines, - — - . - 26
Vistas, of forming, in villa grounds, , - 6 ,
W,
Walks in villa grounds, of forming, . - 10 ~-
‘—-——— in kitchen gardens, of forming, - l3 '
\Valks, grass, of forming, - - - 132

\Vall-trees, of the proper aspects for, - 23, 37
—— distance at which to plant, - 44
~-—-—-----——— of pruning - - 61, 211, 33-1.
-—————-— of grafting the branches of old, - 131“
-——-—-—- of screening the blossoms of, 132, 157
-— ----— of watering with the engine, 176, 210,
2‘52, ‘2 ,1, 306-

 

398v moms;

Piage
Wall-trees, of disbudding, - - - 211
of training, - 82, 236, 267,. 278, 304
—- of brushing ofi'the leaves of, - 320
Walls, of the proper height of, in small gardens, 13
Warden pear described . - . 40-
Wasps, of destroying, - - 262, 280
Water, rain, most favourable to vegetation, 363
- hard, least favourable to vegetation, - ib.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

__ -.— method of softening - - 1b,
Watering new planted fruit-trees, - 156, 210
——-— bushes - 178, 216

_.._.._—-—.——-— trees and shrubs, 178, 210
.___._...—._———._ strawberries, - 178, 216
—— mushroom beds, - 299
shrubs and flowers kept in the house, 360

 

 

White-heart cherry described, - - 33
-———«- ISchia fig described, - - 3%
\Vire-fences, manner of constructing, - 7 ‘
VVire-worm, the, destructive to carnations, - 268’
...-—-_——————-- described, - - - 269‘
Y
Yair pear described, - - - 39
Yellow gage plum described, - - - 4‘1

YOrleshire green apple described, - - 30,

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X. TABLES for COMPUTING the WEIGHT of
HAY, CATTLE, SHEEP and I-IOGS, by MEA-
SUREMENT; with a Comparative Table of' the
Weights used at Edinburgh, to those in use at Smith,
field and elsewhere. By JOHN AINSLIE. 12mo. ls. 6d.
sewed. ’

 

D. \Villison, printer, Edinburgh.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  
 

(02027‘4'473