UC BERKELEY MASTER NEGATIVE STORAGE NUMBER 00-64.10 (National version of master negative storage number: CU SN00064.10) MICROFILMED 2000 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY PHOTOGRAPHIC SERVICE USAIN State and Local Literature Preservation Project Funded in part by the National Endowment for the Humanities REPRODUCTION AVAILABLE THROUGH INTERLIBRARY LOAN OFFICE MAIN LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA BERKELEY, CA 94720-6000 COPYRIGHT The copyright law of the United States (Title 17, United States Code) governs the making of photocopies or other reproductions of copyrighted materials including foreign works under certain conditions. In addition, the United States extends protection to foreign works by means of various international conventions, bilateral agreements, and proclamations. Under certain conditions specified in the law, libraries and archives are authorized to furnish a photocopy or other reproduction. One of these specified conditions is that the photocopy or reproduction is not to be "used for any purpose other than private study, scholarship, or research." If a user makes a request for, or later uses, a photocopy or reproduction for purposes in excess of "fair use," that user may be liable for copyright infringement. University of California at Berkeley reserves the right to refuse to accept a copying order if, in its judgment, fulfillment of the order would involve violation of copyright law. Wilson, Herbert Earl The lore and the lure of Sequoia: the Sequoia... Los Angeles 1923 BIBLIOGRAPHIC RECORD TARGET University of California at Berkeley Library | USAIN State and Local Literature Preservation Project Master negative storage number: 00-64.10 (national version of the master negative storage number: CU SN00064.10) FORMAT: BK LEVEL: r ISBN: GLADIS#: 17182542E LANG: eng CNTRY:cau LCCN: MOD: 990920/NRP ME: Wilson, Herbert Earl. TI: The lore and the lure of Sequoia: the Sequoia gigantea, its history and description: animals, geology, Indians and the story of the Indian, Sequoia, and the history of Sequoia national park, by Herbert Earl Wilson IM: Los Angeles, Cal., Wolfer printing company, 1928 CO: 132 p. front., plates, ports. 18 cm CALL: 984m.W748 MAIN Microfilmed by University of California Library Photographic Service, Berkeley, CA FILMED AND PROCESSED BY LIBRARY PHOTOGRAPHIC SERVICE, UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, BERKELEY, 94720 DATE: 2/00 REDUCTION RATIO: 8 9 %, % + / Oo I 0,7? Os * y ox K oN NY NY % 4, 5, uaa V2 (uu Ta PM-1 3%"x4" PHOTOGRAPHIC MICROCOPY TARGET NBS 1010a ANSI/ISO #2 EQUIVALENT 10 2k l= = = | [22 es LL lis yg TER =~ pe 2S fs, his eT Tal ale S| Ug oR EEE tu a a a i © +s fe ee. SPIRIT OF THE SEQUOIAS Reflecting mystery of the past, standing unconquerable and strong; inspiring hope; exemplifying eternal life, tranquility and patience, and reaching ever upward for the light. a Ee i Photo by Lindley Eddy. From the Painting by CHRISTOPHER SEIBERTH Sequoia National Park, California o 0 > 20 3 ’. 8, 3 0 ° J oo 0 00,9 ) 2 » ® 50 » 0 p. 0 0 9 50 0 2.0 y 0 ) y 5 > » > ) ) ’ 20 of o> 2 4 J ) y 2s 9 u a 2 >) 000 0 Oo oO ) ) >: 00 0 OF SEQUOIA THE SEQUOIA GIGANTEA ITS HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION Animals, Geology, Indians -and the Story of the Indian Sequoia and The History of Sequoia National Park I To those men whose untiring efforts and j unselfish motives have brought about the creation of Sequoia National Park, this book is respectfully dedicated. By | HERBERT EARL WILSON {a RE WOLFER PRINTING COMPANY LOS: ANGELES, CAL. 1928 rp Sens ° sie s% . $0.0 qq ie ® * ¢ 2 8:0 0 - v's en 0 gle. . v ¢ wv & . . 277 ® ce vy ve) a%gtve ee ® ¢ a) sd 2. ® LB * oo o% g00.8 0 Se « Foe 0 3e¢e oo % 86 gee e of pi 2 ; 5 - (CA A X Copyright, 1928 CONTENTS Page DEDICATION o.oo rmsd ee cir Es 6 INTRODUCTION .....o.ooe. adit AE 13 CHAPTER I The coming of the white man... 15 CHAPTER II The Kaweah Colony....................... 0s 34 CHAPTER III The scenic beauty of Sequoia National Park... 47 CHAPTER IV The History of the Giant Sequoia...................... 64 CHAPTER V The story of the Indian Sequoia............................ 89 CHAPTER VI Some animals of the Park... 103 TBRAES: iiss Ee 103 Sierra Mule Deer athens Vamsi as bigs ab ans bis Mus onbgmmi ea sna sn ates ines re ee masa 116 Moulin LION o.oo vie iii 124 Squirrels (Chipmunks) ............................ .@/'" _ @ 127 Sierra Chipmunk ......... oid ...128 24 ¢ » vy q 93 [9] er {ERS I mr me Py ap ARS TATRA A Srl hema pa J a ILLUSTRATIONS Page Froftisplene =... i nh BT 4 Indian:Rock Mortars... vince oo 19 Hale Tharp—Discoverer of Giant Forest... 23 Tharp Cabinin Hollow Log ................................. ~ 27 Indian Pictographs... A a 31 Senate Group =... 37 Emerald Lake ............ ...... .° Ruraie is snsiinmn saben atts bis mins 41 Circle Meadow .....................0 00. "ao on 50 45 Castle Rocks from Moro Rock.........................0.... 0... 0 49 General Sherman Tree... Des Auto Log -................. A LR LC NOL RR 57 Mt. WHRIReY: .......o na 61 CONTEST BIOND «civic cirri ai 65 Crescent Meadow... loo 0 ee GR 69 RingslCerm Divide... 75 Abraham Lincoln Tree... 0... / 0d 79 Tunnel Tree li 85 Sequoia (Cherokee Indian)................................. 1.0 91 Big Kern-Lake.. ............. ta edi 97 California Black Bear....................... 04 101 Watch Tower (Tokapzh Valley)... ..... ‘= 105 Bear Cubs... ha 109 Junior and Billy the Buck........................ ie 113 Doe and sFawns.................o vnc 117 Moro Rock: v........cccii en i 121 Sierra CHPINK: a ae 125 Golden-mantled Ground Squirrel............................._' 129 Ble AUIHOE ccc ii Ce ee i a INTRODUCTION N OFFERING this little book, the author hopes that it will carry the message of the great outdoors to the respective minds of its readers and will serve to bring to them a deeper appreciation of the natural beauty and grandeur of Sequoia National Park which we have inherited from Nature and the preservation of which we have had intrusted to us for posterity. An endeavor has been made to keep away from technical terms but still make the book both educational and inter- esting. The information contained herein has been collected dur- ing the writer's experiences in the mountains of California for the past twenty-one years and through his more recent acquaintance with some of the early settlers of the Sequoia Park region as well as by reference to the following books: “History of Tulare County,” by Kathleen Edwards Small “Tree Ancestors,” by Edward Wilbur Berry “Animal Life in the Yosemite,” by Joseph Grinnell and Tracy Irwin Storer “The History of the World,” by H. G. Wells “The Lore and Lure of Yosemite,” by Herbert Earl Wilson. Sequoia National Park, Cal. ‘April 24th, 1928. [13] SER J A oA wa AR RRR REE Fr. CHAPTER 1 THE CoMING OF THE WHITE MAN Along the streams of the San Joaquin valley long ago there dwelt the Indian people. Their number totaled several thousand and they were composed of separate tribes, each with slightly different ceremonies but all living peacefully side by side. Here in the great valley and in the foothills of the mountains they found food in abundance. The seeds of the wild grass were gathered to make their meal. The acorn of the black oak tree was ground by the squaws in rock mortars for their flour from which was made coarse, unsalted bread. The food was cooked in baskets made by the squaws from the red bud and willow and roots of the brake fern. The cooking was accomplished by dropping hot rocks into the food in the baskets. Fish were seined from the streams with nets, cunningly fashioned from the tough fiber of the milk weed or caught in traps built of willow twigs and set in the streams by the young bucks of the tribe. The hunters found meat on the plains where elk and antelope roamed, or shot with their powerful bow and arrow the swift, timid deer of the moun- tains. ‘The birds of the air afforded them meat and also feathers with which to make the ceremonial head dress that the great spirit may be worshiped according to the custom of their forefathers. [15] EE Aa FR eR OE eR AREA OU EA ik] Hi 811 i | J A i i ill ti £8 { } i i i { fh § IR EH fill bj i] Jan 1a ol in i! § [a i t ith i 1] | } 1 4 He ot i i a al Bi i § i i iH A SE ST THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA Wild berries and choke cherries grew in abundance and the fruit of the manzanita was used to make a cider which gave cheer to the hearts of the tired hunters. The Indian people built thatched shelters of the branches of the trees and covered them with bark. During the warm summer months they slept under the kindly light of the moon and stars and throughout the day worked under the shade of the sheltering trees. Thus these simple, kindly people lived contented with their lot, believing in the guid- ance of a Great Spirit who would reward their virtues and punish their transgressions and finally at death take them to that happy hunting ground which lay beyond the setting sun. Word had been carried to these people by Indian runners from friendly tribes, of a strange race of men different from the Indian, who had entered their territory. The Indians who brought these tales first told of Peter F agps, who had entered the southern part of the San Joaquin valley, search- ing for deserters from his army, stationed in the southern part of the state. A few years later, in the year 1777, another man of this strange race came into their land for a few days with a small party, but the Indians did not know “that this man was a Spanish Missionary, Father Garces, who remained but a few days. Many years passed before they again heard strange tales of these people coming from where they knew not and going back again to the land from whence they came and bringing no satisfaction to the curiosity of the Indian. It was in 1826 that Jedediah S. Smith blazed a trail to the far west and arrived in the southern part of the state [16] SYV.LYOJA] MO0Y NVIAN] ‘ppg C2pury &q oj0yq SEO ORS THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA In 1848 the call went forth that gold had been discov- ered at Caloma, near Sacramento, by James Marshall. From the far eastern states long wagon trains crept west- ‘ward over the middle western plains, ships arrived from all ports of the world, bringing adventurers in search of the precious yellow metal. This country, heretofore knowing only quietness and peace, inhabited by a peaceful, kindly people, was disturbed by these seekers of gold. One of these immigrant trains was conducted by John Huggins and he had as a member of his party John Wood, bound for Mariposa, where many claims were being staked. John Wood was unsuccessful with his mining operations at Mariposa and remembering the fertility of the country through which they had passed persuaded about fifteen men of the immigrant party to go with him back to this place and start an agricultural settlement. They arrived at their destination December 31, 1849, and started the erection of the first log building about seven miles from the present city of Visalia. ! This was the first white man to encroach upon the terri- tory of the Yokut Indian people. At first they were un- molested, but after months went by and they gave every indication of making this their permanent home and began to kill the deer with their strange weapons which spat fire, and cut the trees from their forests, the Indians decided that these people with the pale faces who had come into their land must leave. They formed a delegation and going to the white chief, Mr. Wood, told him that if he did not leave before the sun had set ten times they would declare 1] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOILA war and kill the white man. Captain Wood, knowing that they were outnumbered by the Indians, after some consider- at'on, decided that they would be foolish to remain. He had delayed his decision too long, however. On the tenth day he sent out his men to round up the herses preparatory for their departure, but the Indians, making good their threat, attacked the little party of white men, killing all but four. Two of these men escaped by swimming down the river under water part of the time. John Wood himself took refuge in the log cabin and the fourth man was captured after a struggle and given a target to hold while the Indians filled his body with arrows. After this they turned their attention to John Wood, who was alone in the cabin, and the battle of one man against hundreds of Indians began He managed to hold them at bay for some time by shooting through the loopholes in the building. F inally the Indians rushed the cabin, climbed upon the roof, and tearing away the shakes gained entrance and he was brutally dragged from the cabin. The Indians, now fully aroused because thir- teen of their comrades had been killed, held a consultation and decided that John Wood should meet the worst fate known to their nation, that of being skinned alive. This brave palefacc met unflinchingly the torture meted. cut to him, making the hearts of the enraged Indians a little ashamed. He made no plea for mercy and they removed the fair skin from his body in one piece, leaving the victim alone to die. As a warning to other white people who might encroach upon their territory they hung the skin on a nearby tree. [22] Reproduction of Photo by Lindley Eddy. { HALE THARP, DISCOVERER OF GIANT FOREST ' hii i i { 8] $81 | hil th 35] i ii i ] i 1 ei BE Ls Ei ¥ £4] Efi Ed hil ai i! a i Ei I 4 14 | Bl i i 14 | i ¢ l THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA This tortuous fate of John Wood, who dreamed of build- ing up a community in this section, did not end the arrival of the whites in the land of the Indian. The two com- rades who had escaped reported the uprising to the com- mander at Fort Millerton and soldiers were sent to punish the Indians. Other settlers arrived to take the place of those who had been killed, among whom were Nathaniel and Abner Vise, who started here the town of Visalia. The Indians did not know what to do to preserve their hunting grounds from the white man, who came without ceremony, and settled without permission. Some of these strange palefaces were friendly and became good friends of the Indians. Among these was one, Hale D. Tharp, who settled near the resent village of Three Rivers in the sum- mer of 1856, in the territory of the Kaweah tribe. This tribe numbered about two thousand _Tndjans, Tiving along my Cove to Hospital Rock, Chappo, chief of the Kaweahs, : seeing that this white man was brave and kind and friendly, sent two of his young bucks to invite him to visit the headquarters of the tribe at Hospital Rock. Hale Tharp felt greatly honored and following the two guides over a rough trail, traveled for almost a day before they arrived at the encampment, where approximately six hundrd Indians dwelt. Hale Tharp was given a welcome by all members of the tribe as they gath- ered around him in wonder, as most of these people had never seen a white man before. They marveled at the strange clothes that he wore and at the weapons that he carried. Chief Chappo proudly showed him about the camp, point- [25] re THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOI1A ing out the rock mortars where the squaws ground the acorn, and telling him of the bravery and skill of the hunters, boasting of the foresight with which he stored away food for the winter that his people might not want. The chief wanted the white man to see how industrious his pzople were, he wanted him to know that the Indian people were peaceful and happy and friendly here in the land which the Great Spirit provided. They were dressed in their most beautiful garments for this welcome and a feast was pre- pared. Chief Cazppo pointed out to their visitor on the huge rock of their storehouse the strange inscription which had been put there many years before, so long ago that none of the Indians could read it or knew by whom it had been written. He asked him if he could understand the paint- ings, and learning that this stranger could not tell him what they meant, Chappo was sorely disappointed. Under the shelter of this rock lay an old squaw with a broken leg and one of the younger women with a new born babe. So Hale Tharp visited the Indian people many times, and Le proved to be their friend. He used his powerful gun to kill the deer for the Indians so that the hunters would not have to spend long weary hours in hunting. Chief Chappo told Mr. Tharp of a wonderful forest high up in the mountains where the trees grew to ponderous size and deer and bear were plentiful. The pale face was interested for he needed summer pasture for his cattle. So when the Indian chief offered to send two of his braves to guide his friend to this giant forest he accepted and they [26] 90T MOTIOH NI NISV)) d¥VHT, App Lopury &q ozoyg A A AA ne THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA set out over the rough trail up the mountain. They arrived in the forest of big trees and camped at Log Meadow and the white man seemed very pleased. He marveled at ‘the size of the trees and the density of the forest. The deer and bear were in great numbers, as the chief had said they were, and the two bucks pointed with pride to the meadows rich with grass and wild flowers. The animals of the forest were not afraid and looked at the strange party with curiosity. Mr. Tharp returned many times to the land of the big trees, driving his cattle up jg the spring to graze in the rich meadows during the summer months. At the edge of one of these meadows he fashioned himself a unique house in a hollow log. As Hale Tharp was an adventurous person and not con. tent with what he had seen later explored further into the mountains, and the Kings River canyon. On his return from this trip his friend, John Swanson, who had accom- panied him, fell and injured his leg and Hale Tharp car- ried him down the mountain side to the Indian camp at Hospital Rock. The squaws consulted the medicine man and gathering herbs nearby and using the fat of the bear, they doctored his injury so that it was soon healed. As years passed more white people came into the territory of the Kaweahs, some afflicted with strange sicknesses and diseases which the Indians contracted and their medicine men could not cure. The Indian people died by the hun- dred. The white people brought with them the fire water which made his young braves as foolish old women, or made them mean and sullen and unwilling to listen to the counsel [29] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF: SEQUOLlA of the chief. Many of the Indians adopted the clothes of the white man and became ashamed and their bodies weak ened and they died. Chief Chappo was very sad, and. remembering the kind ness of his white friend, Hale Tharp, decided to go to him and see if he cculd not stop the white people from coming into his country. He knew that combat was impossible because his band had become weakened by sickness and dis ease, and the white man with his powder and bullets was strong, realized that the customs and ways of living of the intruders would bring a total destruction to his people. His soul craved the freedom of the days of his forefathers and the peace and contentment before the white man came From his soul went up a prayer: “Great Spirit, do not let the pale face come, we have been faithful in all our cere- monies, now all that we ask is to be left in peace. We fear the white man for we know that when he comes the Indian must depart.” Chief Chappo arrived at the Tharp ranch. With dignity he addressed his white friend, pleading with him to stop the strangers from further encroaching upon the land of the Indian. Tharp was filled with sorrow. He explained tc Chappo that he was powerless to stop the whites and that they were coming frem a land where there were many more and they would continue to come until the land was filled. Ghief Chappo, heart-broken, returned to his people and told them that the Great Spirit had frownd upon them and that they must seek new lands and freedom elsewhere. Gradually the Indians moved away from their home at [ 30 ] SHAVIOOLOlJ ¥O0 SOIHAATOOWHIH NVIAN] ‘Appa Soppury Kg ozoyg THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA Hospital Rock and along the Kaweah river until just nine years after the arrival of the first white man only one or two families remained. No one knows where they went, though probably they joined the Indians at a reservation on the Tule River which had been set aside by the government of that region when they were forced to give up their lands after a controversy lasting ten years. As evidence of these people who dwelt at Hospital Rock and Giant Forest all that remains today are the pot holes where they ground their acorns and grass seed and the col- ored Indian paintings on the rock at Hospital Rock camp. Now as we roam through the lovely untouched forest of Sequoia National Park admiring its magnificence, standing unattended in the woodland solitude, feeling the spirit of the long departed Indian people, let us give them praise and credit for the preservation of these noble trees. They took from the land only what was needed, killed only for food, destroyed not lustfully, and left a clean trail for the feet that have followed. ) tt a a SRR he n A SEE TTR d ¥ po CHAPTER 11 THE KAWEAH COLONY In 1885 Mr. Keller, who resided at Traver, Tulare County, Cal., and two of his friends, Burnette G. Haskell and J. J. Martin, originated the idea of the Kaweah Co- operative Commonwealth, a modern Utopia, governed along socialistic lines. These three men had little difficulty in in- fluencing about forty other men to make a trip over rough and rugged trails into the mountains in the vicinity now known as Giant Forest to appraise the timber and find a location for their dream colony. They thoroughly explored this region and were delighted with its scenic beauty as: well as impressed with its possibility as a source of income, and decided to locate the first unit of their commonwealth about three and a half miles above Three Rivers on the north fork of the Kaweah River at the mouth of Marble Canyon. The founders of the Kaweah colony realized the value of the timber in the country which they had explored and set about to gain title to it. Each man filed on a timber claim with the prospect of forming a joint stock company after receiving full title to the land, this company to be known as the Kaweah Co-operative Colony Company. In order to market the timber it would be necessary to build a wagon road and if possible a railroad and a mill so that the cut timber could be transported to the San Joaquin Valley. Plans were laid for the railroad from Visalia to Giant For- est and the work of colonization began. [34] HE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA As most of the members of the colony were without a great amount of capital many of them lived in tents until such time as they would be able to build a house. This gained the little community the nickname of ragtown, With the dream in their minds of a perfect people living together in perfect harmony, under prfect conditions in an ideal place and climate, this little group of people started their new life in the shelter of the peaceful forests of the mountains. A constitution and set of by-laws was adopted. Their ideals were very high and with such a foundation they started, preaching fidelity as a dogma, truth as a command- ment, love as law, and purity as truth. , Their goal was to attain such perfection and harmony that the reflection and influence of such a people would be felt upon all of the populace of the county and state and would spread through- out America, and eventually the world. News of their intentions was sent throughout the sur- rounding country. These people were internationalists and barred no one from membership, the only requirement being the agreement to co-operation, their belief in universal broth- erhood, and a membership fee of five hundred dollars. y All officers were elected by popular vote. The initiative, eferendum and recall were among the fundamentals of their government, and women as well as men were allowed suffrage. Political reforms which we have enjoyed only in recent times were adopted and put into practice by these people. [35] Vv of A J THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA A currency system was established which consisted of time checks and these checks would purchase anything at the colony stores. A fixed wage of thirty cents an hour was paid to everyone who worked, whether he be laborer, secre- tary, clerk, or president. The working day was eight hours. Many of the people who wished to join the colony were unable to pay the five hundred dollar membrship fee, so a provision was made whereby a small down payment of a hundred dollars was required, the remaining amount could be paid by time checks later earned by the new member. In other instances the applicant would be some merchant who had not prospered elsewhere and would move his stock of merchandise to the colony, this stock becoming the property of the commonwealth, in exchange for membership. Fortunately one of these men with worldly goods but no cash was a printer with a printing press. He paid his mem- bership fee with the press, which he continued to operate for the good of the new enterprise. A weekly newspaper was printed known as The Kaweah Commonwealth. This little paper was sent to all parts of the country and gained the colonists not a little advertising. Their ideals were pub- lished and news of their progress spread. From this pub- licity many new recruits were gained and soon the colony numbered three hundred souls. These people, sheltered by canvas tents and a few log community buildings, had great dreams of building a city and erecting a temple which would be a symbol of majesty, strength, and beauty, of the rich colored marble which is found in abundance in the marble canyon. In order to [36] SENATE GROUP Photo by Lindley Eddy. EE a, ES SA ———————————————————————— eis wT ee THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA accomplish all of these things of which the colonists dreamed it was necessary to have money, so the building of a road was started at once in order that the lumber on the land upon which they hoped to prove could be marketed. | Construction of the road was started in 1886 at Kaweah, and was completed a distance of twenty miles up the moun- tain at an elevation of 5500 feet, where a small mill was erected. During the building of this road and since the. organization of the colony the Commonwealth had received in cash and material sixty thousand dollars. This not only built the road but supported the colony of about five hun- dred people for five years. Government engineers claim that under the present competitive system the cost of the building of the road alone would be not less than three hundred thousand dollars. . After the completion of the road the cuttng of timber was started on the claim of one of the settlers. tr In the location now known as Giant Forest several claims have been filed and log cabins built, remnants of which are still subjects of curiosity to the tourists who visit the park. It must not be concluded that the Kaweah Colonist in- tended to destroy the majestic Sequoia and thus bring a deso- late cloud over the brightness of their aspirations. They had ruled that only the mature pine and fir should be cut, and this done as carefully as possible so as not to destroy the beauty of the virgin forest more than necessary. Before the completion of the road and building of the saw mill the lumber companies of the San Joaquin valley had paid little attention to the colonists, though rumors had [39] et et A a ee 8 THE LORE AND THE LURE OTF 'SEQUOIA been persistent that they intended putting on the market all of the lumber cut from their claims at far below the inflated market price which existed in the valley. After the com- pletion of the road and mill, however, they began to realize that the Kaweans meant business and that, though they were a group of eccentric dreamers, they were men who ac- complished their intentions. They realized that should the Kaweah stock company succed in getting lumber on the market their own lucrative business would be ruined, so they took immediate action to stop their prospective com- petitors, : These lumbermen knew that the colonists had not yet proved up on their timber claims. They first wrote letters to the Secretary of the Interior saying that the Kaweah set- tlers intended to destroy the Giant Sequoia if they were allowed to secure title to the land. Although this was stren- uously denied by the colonists and contrary to all their published statements, the Secretary of the Interior sent an agent out from Washington to investigate. This man looked up the claims of the colonists and sent back a report which was very discouraging to the Kaweah commonwealth. Upon the receipt of the agent’s ‘report Congress with- drew the township which included Giant Forest and all groves near by from entry. This was done under the as- sumption that the colonists intended to destroy the big trees, the government reserving the right to reject the title of any claimant if it be proven than their intentions are against the best interests of the country. After this disheartening measure the colonists did not give [40] EMERALD LAKE Photo by Lindley Eddy. THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA up hope, knowing that they had complied with every re- quirement of the law. They thought that they would stills" be able to prove their good intentions and gain title tothe land. The colonists continued to cut timber near the colony mill and when this became known the trustees of the colony were arrested and brought before the federal court in Los Angeles and charged with cutting timber on government land. The prosecution _ontinued for some time but was finally dismissed. In the meantime Col. George Stewart and some of the citizens of Tulare County had been gathering data and spreading the facts of the wonder and beauty of the Sequoia Tree. Great credit should be given to these men who real- ized the beauty of these trees and worked hard and unself- ishly for their preservation, and after long and untiring efforts they succeeded in having Congress, on September 9, 1890, set aside a tract of land comprising 252 square ‘miles, including Giant Forest and several other groves, to be known as Sequoia National Park, the second of our na- tional parks to be created, and by this act the preservation of these innumerable giants was assured for all time against the ravages of man. J ; The Kaweah colonists, discouraged, their ideal shat- tered, deprived of their homes, gave up, as they were forced to leave the newly created park by the soldiers who had been sent to guard it. Throughout the summer months from 1891 to 1914 the park was guarded by United States soldiers, the officer in [43] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA charge being the acting superintendent of the park. From 1914 to the present time the affairs of the park have been administered by a civilian superintendent and the park _guarded and cared for by his appointed forest rangers. On account of the unequalled scenery of the country east of Giant Forest, the park was enlarged July 3, 1926, to include several more groves of ‘big trees, Mount Whitney and the Kern Canyon, making the total area oF the reales Sequoia Naren Pari six hundred and four square miles. Within the boundary of the newly acquired area some private holdings were purchasd by citizens of Tulare County aided by a generous contribution from the National Geogra- phic Society and the untiring efforts of Stephen I, Mather, director of our National Parks. Thus ended the premature dream of the Kaweah Com- monwealth and thus came into being Sequoia National Park, that these trees, the oldest and largest of God’s living crea- tions, should be forever preserved as a heritage for the American people. " hed N 4 > 20 332% Tou? 30, 0 0,0 Photo by "Lindley Eddy. CIRCLE MEADOW hb os i Tay i Tn oon % ais toro oo To ER CHAPTER III SCENIC BEAUTY OF SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK Sequoia National Park is locatd in the Sierra Nevada Mountains of Central California. It comprises six hundred and four square miles, including many scenic features, among which are Mount Whitney, elevation 14,502 feet, the high- est mountain in continental United States; azure lakes cradled in glacial cups, singing streams of crystal clearness, foaming water falls, meadows matted with wild flowers, noble forests of pine and fir and the far-famed Sequoia Gigantea. The park was created on September 25, 1890, by an act of Congress and was the second National Park to be thus set aside. Of all of our nineteen national parks Sequoia has the most scenic approach. Starting at an elevation of 1300 feet at the entrance to the park at Ash Mountain, and rising to an elevation of 6450 feet at Giant Forest, the tourist is afforded the greatest variety of plant life and scenic attrac- tions, glimpses of rocky mountain peaks, the needle-like time- worn spires of Castle Rock on one side of the canyon and on the other the solid bulk of Moro Rock rising sheer four thousand feet above the bed of the middle fork of the Ka- weah River. Far up the canyon and towering as a sentinel as if guarding the wonderland that lies beyond, is the often snow-capped Alta Peak rising in solemn majesty to an ele- vation of 11,000 feet. On the left, far at the bottom of the colorful Marble Canyon, whose walls are gaily .deco- [47] BR cece SS hi Si THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA rated with the rainbow-hued marble of that region, envy of many an architect and builder, the Marble Fork of the Kaweah River cascades over mighty boulders, forming graceful waterfalls. As Giant Forest is approached the towering columns of the Sequoias send out a welcome, whispering of relaxation and thoughtfulness and inspiration by their massive strength and tranquil beauty. Giant Forest Grove of Sequoia Nations] Park is the largest of the twenty-six groves of Sequoia trees which in- habit the Sierras. This grove was discovered by Hale Tharp in 1858 while he was searching for summer pasturage for his cattle. The grove was explored and named by John Muir, who was a guest of Hale Tharp in the now famous Tharp Log, a great hollow fallen Sequoia which was ap- propriated by Mr. Tharp as a summer home affording him ample and roomy shelter. In the grove of 3200 acres are found over a million of the big trees in various stages of growth from smallest delicate seedlings to the colorful trees of greatest size and age. Here is felt a presence that enthralls us with a sense of joy and elevated thoughts and peacefulness. The air is seemingly filled with great silence and eternal peace. Birds are sing- ing praises of the glory of these trees whose trunks form the pillars of a mighty outdoor temple; a temple whose floor is the flower strewn and grass carpeted meadow, whose ceiling is formed by swaying branches or the blue sky, flecked with fleecy clouds. The only temple incense is an odor of the forest and of growing things, the spicy smell of pines, the [48] - MD0Y OUOJA WOUL SUD0Y ALISV)) bppq Lopwr7 &q ojoyg a Si mp i I A Moen ee RE 35 icon atre ma THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA wholesome fragrance of the incense cedar, the clean, re- freshing scent of meadow flowers and whose only music is the happy chorus of the birds who find protection here or the throaty pipings of the frogs rejoicing in the pleasure of the marshy meadow. L In Giant Forest grove are many individual trees of special interest, chief among which is the General Sherman, the oldest and largest. This tree was discovered by James W. Wolverton, a hunter and trapper, on August 7, 1879. As Mr. Wolverton had served during the Civil War under General Sherman and held him in highest esteem, he named this forest general after him. The General Sherman stands at the extreme eastern edge of Giant Forest not far from the south rim of the marble canyon. The size of General Sherman is almost incomprehensible. It has a height of 280 feet, greatest base diameter 37.3 feet and an estimated weight, including trunk, roots, foliage, and limbs of 12,335,639 pounds. This remarkable specimen towers straight and clean above the ground for 130 feet before its clear cut trunk line is broken by a limb. This first limb alone would make a good-sized tree, being 7.3 feet in diamcter. If the General Sherman were cut into lumber and the roots as well as trunk and branches utilized the result would be approximately enough lumber to build cottages sufficient to house a population of 2470 people, allowing five persons to each home and 5,000 feet of lumber to each cottage. It has been found that the average ring count of trees [51] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA that have been cut in other sections is twenty to an inch. Using this average as a means of calculation, we find the Sherman tree to be well on its way to five thousand years of age. Turning backward history’s pages we find that while Moses was leading the Children of Israel across the wilderness and desert wastes toward the promised land, this tree could then look back upon a thousand years of life, and when Christianity dawned upon the earth had gained ma- turity and reared its head far above the pine and fir that surrounded it, destined to be the king of the forest. This thriving veteran of past ages has survived many a devastating forest fire which repeatedly swept through the forest, destroying surrounding fir and pine, leaving only the Sequoias standing blackened and fire-scarred but still living. The Sherman bears today great blackened fire scars, mute evidence of these conflagrations. These fires sometimes oc- curred with such frequency that the tree did not have time to heal completely and the new fires burned still deeper into the old wound. Fortunately nature has given to the Sequoia unusual healing virtue and it has been estimated that the General Sherman will be completely healed in about one hundred years. There are many other trees near the size of the General Sherman growing in the Park. Of these the following deserve special mention. The Abraham Lincoln, of such rugged weather-beaten aspect and stern and self-reliant pose that one is reminded of our martyr president. The room tree is of interest because of the cavity within its center forming a room which will accommodate standing [52] Photo by Lindley Eddy. GENERAL SHERMAN TREE THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA room for twenty people. Entrance to this tree is gained, by means of a step ladder, through an opening six feet above the ground and an exit is found on the opposite side near the base. The dead telescope tree is one within whose hollow trunk one may stand and peer through to the sky overhead. The tunnel tree is lying prostrate and thousands of tour- ists have walked through it from its base to where it has been denuded of its crown, a distance of about two hundred feet. | The Tharp log mentioned elsewhere was used by Mr. Tharp as a dwelling place. The hollow interior forms a room 56 feet long, 8 feet high at the front and tapering down to four and a half feet in the rear. He built a shelter of shakes over the entrance to keep out the wind and rain and built in this shelter a fireplace. He cut a window in the side of the log to admit light. This unique dwelling remains today as it was when Mr, Tharp enjoyed its shelter many years ago. The nursery tree’s heart, near the base, has been destroyed by fires of the past, affording a free passage through the base of the tree, in which are found many seedlings of fir and pine. The old giant shelters and watches over them as a mother would her babe. Another tree of singular interest is the Lone Pine tree. This Sequoia gave up its life many years ago by the attack of forest fires, but still stands, a monument unto itself and at the summit of its trunk 130 feet above the ground, it harbors a lonely young pine some five or six feet high. This [55] > THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOILA little tree receives its moisture from the melted snow of spring that lodges in the top of this old giant and is retained by the soil that it formed by the decay and disintegration of the leaves of the neighboring trees that have fallen therein. The bears’ bath tub, within whose hollow center water. has accumulated, forming a pool lasting throughout the: summer months. However, there has been no known in- stance of a bear taking a bath here, but it would be a most favorable place if the bear were so inclined. The bears’ manicure tree is one of the trees of the Con- gress Group. On the spongy bark of this tree the bears delight to clean or manicure their claws. The most beautiful Sequoia of Giant Forest is the Roose- velt tree, noted for its freedom from fire scars and its un- equalled symmetry and beauty. The stricken tree is one which was struck by lightning and was rent into hundreds of pieces, some of which, weighing hundreds of pounds, were hurled seventy-five feet or more from the tree whose brittle wood was shattered. Another tree on the Crescent meadow trail, The Shattered Giant, was struck by lightning in 1926 and badly damaged, but both trees are still growing and if given time and suffer no ~ further injury, will probably be growing sturdily many generations from today. Of special interest to motorists is the often pictured Auto Log. It fell in 1916 and two years later a road was built so that it is possible for those who desire to do so to safely drive a car upon its trunk. Besides these individual trees there are several remarkable [56] 207 oLaY Appd Kippur &q ojoyyg | ig] i i If RE {Ho eS aaron IIE ORG TR RS SA er ty peso THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA groups. Of these the Parker group, consisting of seven trees, is the most beautiful one which can be reached by motor. It is named in honor of Colonel Parker, who camped nearby with his soldiers when he had charge of the National Park in 1894. Two other groups which can be easily reached by foot or bridle trails are the Congress and Senate groups on the Alta trail. Here is found a quietness and peace not found near the popular public camps and motor roads. At dawn the rising sun sends lance after lance of sunlight creeping through the branches, heralding the dawn of 2 new day. The birds are awakened and disturb the silence of the morning with their song. Gleaming, jeweled dew drops are carelessly brushed from the luxuriant ferns and flowers which grow here in abundance, by eager woodland dwellers happily beginning another day. And here at evening time the sun’s rays linger last upon the towering tips of the Sequoias, turning them to ruddy gold while underneath the trees long purple shadows lull the forest creatures into slumber, Sequoia National Park not only offers the greatest num- ber and most unique collection of Sequoia trees but also has with in its boundary some of the wildest and most pictur- esque scenery found in all the world. Deep canyons can be found, water-worn and sculptured by the ice streams of long ago and sparkling streams ever flow- ing turbulently down the mountain sides, forming foaming, white cascades, or singing, leaping waterfalls and calm, lim- pid pools, delight of many a speckled trout. Lakes are here, over three hundred of them, resting in un- [59] rn rn; es fz vin, I ra TTR PTI NAG 1 rE THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOLA expected mountain hollows, mirroring tranquilly the snow- capped mountain peaks and towering crags above them, some ~ of them whose surface the tricky fly of the fisherman has never yet disturbed. A land of enchantment and dreams, far from the beaten trails of man, far from the hum of the motor cars, the machinery and the cities which have enslaved us, impressive with its quietness and beauty and inspiring lofty thoughts. The building of new trails into the upper regions of the park, which is in progress at the present time, will afford the visitor easier access to this higher mountain country. The Sequoia park is blessed with an abundance of animal and bird life. Wild flowers are found in almost unending diversity and color, from the lower foothill country where the striking Yucca or Lord’s Candle, greets the newcomer at the entrance, to the Arctic Alpine Zone of some of the highest peaks, where the daintiest flowers struggle for ex- istence. It is not necessary to travel many weary miles in Sequoia Park to gain views of scenic grandeur. The view from both Beetle and Sunset rocks, within thirty minutes’ walk- ing distance from the most popular public camps, afford views well worth traveling many miles to see. Besides these two there is Moro Rock, from whose summit one may look down into the breath-taking depth to four thousand feet below, where flows the distance-dwarfed Kaweah River. Looking eastward from this vantage point is seen the awe- inspiring view of the great western divide, a panorama dof glorious, rugged mountain peaks, snow-crowned and aus- [60] Mt. WHITNEY Photo by Lindley Eddy. THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEGUOILIA tere, cut by deepest purple shadows or blushing with the sun’s last golden rays or swept by refreshing billowy clouds, which give a finishing touch to the majesty of the picture. The little cares that fret us, our foolish fears, and ancient faiths and fancies, our petty strifes and bickerings, our mod- ern jazz and many things which once seemed to us of vast importance, all are cast aside and here we find seclusion and a benediction that will heal our souls. A BE OS PE TSS —————————— —— EET oe on I CRASS GR Ie IE CARE fo i Hii CHAPTER IV History oF THE GIANT SEQUOIA “In the beginning God created the heavens and the earth; -——and the earth brought forth grass;—and the tree yielding fruit whose seed was in itself ;—and God saw that it was good.” In the beginning! How little it matters just where or when was that beginning. It is enough to know that a benevolent Creator in his divine scheme of things has created these trees; has developed, sheltered and protected them through countless ages in order that they may convey some message out of a dim and distant past; a message of eternity and love. The scenes on the earth’s stage have been shifted contin- ually by the action of the winds and the water, of the heat and cold as well as by the earth movements and internal eruptions. New mountain ranges have been brought forth, new valleys formed, canyons carved in the mountain sides, lakes cradled in glacial cups, and rivers started on their pathway to the sea. Within the period of our own short ‘life we have actually seen these changes taking place. Imag- ine, then, the vastness of this alteration on the earth’s sur- face wrought by the forces of nature during an unlimited measure of time. This continues natural construction and destruction has been faithfully recorded in the great diary of nature, a diary in which a million years is counted but a day. [ 64] ConGrEss GROUP THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEO We owe the reading of this great book to that small group of men who are ever searching for the natural re- corded history of the past as it has been written on the sur- face of the earth. re In order to get some idea of the antiquity and majesty of the family of the Sequoias, let us briefly scan the pages which have been so carefully translated for us. First there is pictured the world as it was during the Jurassic period (see foot note) a geological measure of time lasting millions of years, during which time Nature made her first entry showing the existence of the ancestors of the present Sequoias. These primeval ancestors were of a pine- like nature and first lived in a long, continuous summer. Covering the earth then were widespread, warm seas, along whose shores grew lush and verdant flora; recently marine, but now adjusting themselves to the new conditions prevail- ing as the result of the elevation of the land and the subse- quent receding of the water, this making necessary the spe- cialization of roots to draw water from the soil, of leaves to obtain life-sustaining food from the air and of sturdy, upright stalks. Huge and cumbersome reptiles,—crocodiles, tortoises, and turtles crawled about, ungainly creatures blinking and bask- ing in the humid sunlight. Newly-evolved flying beings, half beast, half bird, leaped or awkwardly flew through the thick leaves and branches of the forest trees. Foot Note: Geologists divide the earth’s history into periods, the most recent of which are as follows, dating from the present back to and including the one in which the Sequoia Gigantea ancestors first existed.—Quarternary, Tertiary, Cretaceous, and Jurassic. : [67] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA The earth, teeming with life and light and color, was restless. [Earthquakes were prevalent, mountain ranges were in their newest infancy. At such a time, in such sur- roundings, the Sequoia ancestors flourished in keeping with the other things of nature which were built upon a mon- strous scale. Seemingly for our present information, small fragments of these trees, cones in France, solidified and im- bedded in the embryo rocks—a portion of a mighty trunk covered with volcanic ash in the present region of the Yel- lowstone, were then preserved and so remained throughout the ages for those who later cared to read the record thus transcribd. Th Sequoias were generously endowed with tannin, a sub- stance which makes them resistant to decay. The majority of the fossils which have been found today are of the cones. These have been covered with silt or clay and thus preserved, or through the chemistry of slow decay, causing an impregnation of salts of iron, have been rendered more resistant than the surrounding rock in which they were imbedded. Throughout a vast elapse of time, as this softer rock was worn away, the cones, perfectly formed, were left exposed. Fossil remains of the Sequoias have been found in every place where fossil remains of the plants of the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods have been discovered, this proving that they once formed a mighty forest growing in Ireland, in France, in Italy, in Greenland, and in Greece, as well as over almost all of North America. As the Jurassic period drew to a close, Nature, posssibly with loving foresight, started the first gentle uplift of the [68] MOAVIJA LNIOSTAD ppd &2jpwr7 Kg ojoyg oe Ey a TT a en Ta Seas mere RET Erg BAA Fi SE ran Ea Soba f THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA Sierra Nevada mountains, destined to be in future ages the last safe cradle of Sequoia Gigantea. The Cretaceous period dawned, the next chapter in the story of the world. Now palms, magnolias, figs and other forest flora grew, intermingled with survivors of the ferns. The center of the great American continent lowered in ele- vation, permitting the water of the Gulf of Mexico to ad- vance northward until it joined the Arctic Ocean, thus ‘forming the huge but shallow inland sea and sounding the death knell of the dense forest which covered that region. Once again Nature drew for us the picture of that mighty “devastation by preserving in the mud and silt of the inland sea relics of the doomed forest. Later the restless earth again uplifted, and the destructive waters retreated to the Gulf of Mexico. Next came the Tertiary period, a time of vast mountain building. The Cordillers, the Pyrenees, the Rocky moun- tains and the Alps were raised in rugged, rocky majesty. Volcanoes spouted smoke and flame and lava. The erst- while mild and pleasant climate became unsettled and severe, then gradually grew warmer, causing a fluctuation in the floral life and a subsequent renewal of its abundance. The outline of the continents assumed more definitely the con- tour which they have today. ‘The newly formed mountains cut off moisture laden winds of the ocean, forming great arid plains which had not existed before. Gigantic reptiles were replaced by smaller mammals, some races of which attained an uncouth size and shape, remote and generalized ancestors of the animals which we [71] ee EN —., TT I TI rn TAT HRS TB TR SIE P= { THE: LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA have today. The forests which had been obliterated again spread over the earth and reached their fullest glory. Under * their mighty branches the plant life with which we are now familiar came into being. Again a great world summer prevailed. The sun was kind and generous, the animals moved about in the sunlight or rested in amber-lighted shade of sub-tropical vegetation. The trees grew tall and stately, more generously proportioned, even, than the Sequoias which live today. This warm climate drew to a close and was replaced by a bleak and dismal time, the beginning of the Quarternary. Now began a struggle for existence of those forms of life which heretofore had known only ease and sun and pleasure. Many types of both plant and animals, unable to endure the bitterness and cold, became extinct. For centuries the earth was desolate; this time is known as the period of the great ice ages. Strange as it may seem, it is during this period that we find the first traces of man, a creature with a soul destined to overcome, by thinking, the ravages of cold and heat and change and so to live throughout eternity. During these geolegical periods from the Jurassic to the time of the great ice ages, nature had been gradually pre- paring a place for the sheltering of her arboreous master- piece, the Sequoia tree. This place was the Sierra Nevada mountains. Where they now rear their heads in calm seren- ity, snow-capped symbols of the strength of God, there once existed a marginal sea-bottom and low, rolling hills, rem- nants of a previous mountain range. Across this rolling, hilly country there flowed in diverse directions numerous [72] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA meandering streams. In this section a huge block of the earth’s surface four hundred miles long and eighty miles wide was gradually uplifted at its eastern edge and pulled down at its western edge, producing a decided tip to the erstwhile almost level country. The streams which had flowed so sluggishly were by this slight uplift given greater impetus and a more direct course to the sea, so that they cut, as their pathway, broad and shallow valleys. As time passed, the eastern edge of this block was raised still higher and this resulting sharper angle made the streams still swifter and confined their breadth so the new beds cut into the earth-formed valleys within their old valleys. Naturally, with the passage of time, the cutting power of the rivers lessened as the canyon walls through which they flowed were cut down, and the valleys broadened and the river beds filled with the washed out mud and silt and rock, until we again find them flowing peacefully along, their power spent like an old man whose life is nearly done. There . came a third and mightier uplift of the mountains, raising them to their present elevation and giving to the mountain streams new life and energy. Again they rushed down steeper mountain sides, cutting, grinding and wearing away with such concentration and intensity that a third definite valley was formed within the second one. This is what has caused the characteristic three-storied canyons found in the Sierras today. Before the uplift of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, the Sequoia forest covered all of the region which they now occupy. As the mountains were upraised the canyons which [73] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA were cut by the streams were denuded of all plant life. As the climatic conditions changed from warm to colder, an accumulation of snow upon the mountain tops attained such weight and depth that glaciers were formed which moved slowly down the water-worn canyons, filling them to the brim and completing the destruction of all plant life, except in those few sheltered places which the creeping ice of the glaciers did not reach, and here, in these secluded spots, we find the remnants of the Sequoia growing in groves from ten to sixty miles apart. Parts of the trunks of the Sequoias destroyed by the erod- ing streams were carried down into the sea, which then occu- pied the place now known as the San Joaquin valley. As this sea gradually filled in, the remnants of these trunks were covered over with many feet of sand and soil and remained so until recently discovered by men who have drilled for oil in the San Joaquin Valley and been amazed to have their drills strike perfectly preserved Sequoia wood many feet below the surface of the earth. ~The Sequoias grow at an elevation of from five thousand to eight thousand feet and under the prevailing conditions it is impossible for them to advance out of the sheltered areas where they now exist unless there be some drastic change in the climatic conditions of the earth causing humid climate and moisture that will foster their growth elsewhere. They are confined to this elevation by the severity of the winters in the high mountains and are kept from spreading into the lower foothills by the arid climate, a certain amount of moisture being necessary for their existence. [74] HAIAI(Q NYTJ[-SONIY] ‘Appa &ijpur &q ozoyg i= Fo NE TI Tsai i vt pw A pees — — Re Ce —— A as ws WSIS Be —_.e-n a Rn RE = i i | 1 i jit fia #8 | - ws a mt nT REE Ae THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA There are at the present time twenty-six groves of the Sequoia Gigantea. These trees of the Sierras and their cousins, the Sequoia Semprevirens, which are found only in the Coast Range mountains of California, are the only sur- vivors of this great race of trees which once covered the earth and at their geratest splendor boasted nearly twenty varieties. The Sequoia Gigantea was first discovered in 1852 by A. T. Dodd, one of the pioneer prospectors of California, who officially reported the discovery. There had been some previous rumors among early trappers and later by members of the Walker expedition, which crossed the Sierras in 1833, of trees of gigantic size and surpassing beauty. The Sequoia tree is a very individual tree, being strikingly different from the forest trees with which it intermingles. As some prehistoric animal would stand out among all other animals were it suddenly resurrected and sent to roam today among the mountain forests, so do the Sequoias, remnants of a prehistoric race, stand out in vivid contrast to the other trees. Perhaps the most noticeable feature of the Sequoia is its almost unbelievable size and the bare column-like structure of its trunk, which gives the impression of maintaining almost the same diameter from base to crown. In a forest of ordinary fir and pine it looks like a giant towering head and shoulders above his fellow men. Another unmistakable feature of this tree is its glowing reddish brown color, which produces a striking comparison to the darker greens and browns and grays of the surrounding forest. [77] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA It seems as though the Creator has given to the Sequoia everything necessary for its eternal preservation. The exces- sive amount of tannin which it contains not only makes it resistant to decay but protects it from the ravages of insects and of fungi which prey upon its less fortunate neighbors. The greatest natural enemy of any forest tree is fire. Here again we find the Sequoia especially protected. Its bark is of a peculiar asbestos-like construction, growing from six to twenty-four inches thick. This ample covering is practically fire-proof. In ages past, relentless fires, which like maniacal beasts destroyed the surrounding vegetation, have passed them by leaving them sole survivors amid a blackened, desolate, heart-breaking ruin of noble fir and pine. Although they still remain alive, the mature Sequoias almost invariably bear silent evidence of these conflagrations in the scars which mar their base. Some of these scars are caused by the fire burning where the protective bark was unable to adequately cover the fast expanding buttresses, an expansion made necessary to support a tree of such colossal size. This failure of the bark to cover the base of the tree left V-shaped openings through which the fire was able to reach the dry heart wood. Another way in which the fire burns into the tree through the asbestos-like covering is by the debris which accumulates on the upper side composed of leaves, twigs and fallen branches, holding and feeding the fire and causing a long and concentrated heat, drying out the bark and sapwood and destroying the living tissues, thereby rendering this section of the tree easy prey for the repeated attacks of the fires that follow. [78] Photo by Lindley Eddy. ABRAHAM LINCOLN TREE i A i a w gil i i BE i i il | # i 1 ih 4h IE ih Ie bt 43 x al i Hd oh 1 i Hy i i i i 4 { hE { i ii A } hi t Eh hE | Hie f i A | t | fl I " i jim i { {ta ! i! : 13 Th ¥ Bi THE LORE AND: THE LURE OF SEQUO1A Such burning destroyed part of the life of the tree, in some instances only as little as 6 per cent of the living con- nection between the roots and the crown remained. Such destruction of that part of the tree which carried water up- ward from the roots and food from the leaves throughout the tree resulted in a great detriment to its growth. When this occurs the crown dies, but as the tree slowly convalesces, gathering new life and vitality, the topmost branch turns upward, forming a new crown. Considering their great age it is surprising to find that very few have been struck by lightning, although of the “several instances that are known the trees were badly shat- tered. Although the Big Tree is a survivor of past ages, it is a hearty and virile one. In open spots among the groves where air and sun are plentiful are found a great number of seedlings. The parent tree blossoms in the early spring. The blos- soms are of a golden color and a little larger than a birdshot. The first appearance of the cone after the blossom drops is about as large as a grain of wheat, of a delicate green color, and so hard it is almost impossible to pierce it. The cones are compact and small. The size of a mature cone varies from 1 to 134 inches in diameter and from 1}2 to 3 inches long. The cones mature every second autumn and are highly prized as souvenirs, thousands being carried away every season by the visitors to the park. The seeds of the Sequoia are very small, from two to three hundred are contained in each cone. They are as [81] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA . light as snow flakes and as easily carried by the wind. Mil- lions of seeds are produced annually by a mature tree, al- though not all of them are fertile. In order for a seed to germinate it must have contact with chemical soil, that is, soil which is not composed of leaf mold. Seeds that fall in September germinate in the spring, and show first signs of a plant above the ground the following summer, and a year later have obtained a height of from four to six inches. After a few years the tree develops a soft flaky bark of satin-like appearance. As it grows older the bark assumes a fibrous quality. They first bear seeds at the age of about a hundred and twenty-five years and at the age of three hundred years attain a height of seventy-five to one hundred feet. The branches of a young Sequoia grow from within a few inches of the ground to the tip of the tree. As the tree grows, taller the branches, probably from lack of sunlight and air, die. The dead branches fall off and the resulting scar gradually is healed over by new bark. As the tree attains great size the trunk is clear from its base to a dis- tance often of a hundred or a hundred and fifty feet above the ground before its outline is broken by a limb. The bark which covers the limb-bare trunk is deeply fluted at the base, smoothing out toward the crowd. The crowns of the Sequoia trees are very remarkable. From a high vantage point overlooking a grove of Giant Sequoias the age of the individual trees can be judged by their crowns. The younger healthy trees have beautiful arrow-shaped tops. At maturity the crowns are rounded down and dome-shaped and invariably the oldest, most fire- [82] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUO1LA - scarred specimens have scraggly tops or ones in which the original crowns have died and the highest branches turned upward to take their places. Thus we see them beautiful and shapely in youth, serene and imposing in maturity and austere and commanding in old age. The needles of the Sequoia are awl-shaped and average about one-fourth of an inch in length. They growin a spiral-like manner around the twig. The sapwood of the Sequoia is white and the heart wood when first exposed of a light pink color that becomes darker with exposure to the light and weather, the old and weathered wood being black. The wood is very brittle and of little use for commercial purposes. wt There is no more destructive enemy of the Sequoia than man. The beauty and grandeur of the existence of these trees, the knowledge that these living specimens are the - world’s oldest living things, has not deterred man in his merciless lust for gold from destroying in a single day with axe and saw what has taken Nature, not hundreds but thou- sands of years to build. : Several instances of this inexcusable vandalism might be cited to make us realize to what an extent man will destroy for the sake of little material gain. | During the early colonization of the west the first de- struction of the Sequoia Gigantea took place in the Converse Basin. Here the mighty stumps of murdered giants still bear testimony of this thoughtless and irreparable destruc- tion. Many of the trees were too large to utilize after they were cut so they were dynamited, the pieces of the muti- [83] THE LORE AND THE LURE. OF. SEQUOI1A lated trunks split for shakes, fence posts, grape stakes and pencils. What an ignoble ending for such exalted sylvan rulers! | Shortly after the discovery of the big trees in the Cala- veras grove a group of men built a scaffolding around the largest tree, known as the Mother Tree, and the bark was stripped from it, virtually skinning it alive. The bark was carefully packed and shipped to London, where it was used in reconstructing the tree to be put on exhibition in the Crystal Palace there. The tree, thus denuded, died and in later years the trunk was charred by a forest .fire which swept through the grove. It still stands today, a monument unto the greed of man, with its charred branches uplifted as if in prayer to Mother Nature saying: “Forgive them, for they know not what they do.” These are but two instances of many that might be given as a lesson to us show- ing that it is necessary to make every effort to preserve the Giant Sequoias that are left lest they, like their progenitors, perish from the earth. It is not only necessary to protect the Sequoia groves from the lumberman’s axe and the menace of the camper’s bonfire, but from the souvenir hunter and tourist who does not yet know that the Sequoia tree cannot endure undue familiarity. Climbing upon the buttresses of the trees wears away the soft bark and if indulged in by many of the thousands who annually visit the park will soon lay bare the sapwood and sever its connection with the roots, causing the death of the tree. Tramping around close to the base of the tree injures [84] FEY], TANNA "Appa Spm] &q ojoyy Premera He 3 4 4 8 3 fl hi bi vi i Ter ¥i i 8 * £3) td a 3h +h 43 i H] te i i 8 3! i 3 5 i Bh Hb ig fi HE H iM 8 id H qk He git vg ach 4 £l iE ji ig i y it i Sa 2 Ad } HH Lg 8 iis (Hee | LH 11 i i i A | So { 1 | % ¥ H ay i { ih a 1 a t i [| I. H ba EW i 4 i Ph if tt i 4 1 3 f £ i ) ig i Ht i) i ia t # $i fo ia “= TRE a" TERRE EE A i Oy ea St mt et ee A 20 0 - THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA the small roots which grow close to the surface and prevents their proper functioning. . Fortunately there are very severe penalties against the practices which tend to harm the trees and the laws are very adequately enforced. Let those of us who are fortunate enough to be allowed to pay homage to these trees stand back at a respectful distance to admire their stately beauty, conjecture at their age, and marvel at their tall and stately columns. In passing through the forest it is a noticeable fact that the greatest number of, trees fall up hill. This is easily explained when it is remembered that the soil is constantly washing downhill against the tree so that the roots on the ‘upper side are more deeply imbedded, while those on the lower side are often exposed by erosion. The root system of the Sequoia tree is only of surface roots which extend from 40 to 60 feet out from the tree, there being no tap root. Consequently the tree falls toward the side which is most firmly anchored. It is impossible. to determine the exact age of an intact tree. Of trees that have been cut, however, not only can the age be determined but the life history of the tree read as well. Each year a new layer of wood is formed around the tree just beneath the bark. By counting these layers after the tree is cut the age is known, and by the thickness of the layers, or rings, can be seen how favorable conditions were for the growth of the tree. During a dry year the layer of wood formed is very thin, if conditions are very favorable the resulting growth will be thick. If the growth were retarded by fire it would show in the growth of the [87] eA Mh si iti i rom RS EN sn a THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOLlA ring for that year. Evidence is found, too, of many com- pletely healed fire wounds. The only possible way to determine the age of a standing tree is to take a section intact from the bark to the core so that the annual ring growth might be counted. This can be accomplished by an instrument in use by the forestry de- partment, but it is improbable that any of our largest forest monarchs will be thus treated, even though the chances of injuring the trees are very slight. In estimating the age of a tree consideration must be given to its location, fire wounds, etc., as trees of the same size often vary in age due to one having had a more favorable location for growth and development. As we walk or ride through these beautiful Sequoia groves let us give homage to these monumental, living gifts of Nature, standing thus throughout the centuries, watch- ing generations upon generations of fir and pine grow from infancy, attain old age, and then go back in death to the earth which mothered them. Mighty columns of a great temple sheltering the wild life ~ of the forest, standing erect and defiant against the elements of time, shrouded in mysteries of silence, with: an air of antiquity yet still growing, still reproducing, living things as you and I! CHAPTER V THE STORY OF THE INDIAN SEQUOIA Monuments of stone, bronze, and marble have been sculp- tored for men of great deeds, but none could be erected to this Cherokee Indian, Sequoia, as great as this sublime liv- ing monument, the Sequoia Gigantea, which Nature has built and which has been named for him that he shall be known forever throughout the world. In the middle of the eighteenth century the Cherokee nation of Indians, which dwelt in the Southern Appalachian Mountains, was one of the most powerful in America. In the little village of Exchots of the Cherokees, there lived an Indian chief and his beautiful daughter. One springtime there came to this village in the wilder- ness from the American colonies a hunter and trapper named George Guest. Finding here shelter and a welcome he tar- ried for a while. After wandering about alone in the early virgin forest of young America, living close to nature, hav- ing as his only companions the birds and wild animals of the woodland, he found here comfort in human companion- ship. It was only natural that he should be lured by the wild beauty and shyness of the daughter of this Indian chief, and desiring a mate as the forest dwellers with whom he had associated for so long seek a mate in the springtime, he wooed and won the Indian maiden and the chief con- sented to the union. They were married with the ceremony befitting the daughter of a chieftain, and established a home among the Cherokee people. [89] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA Adapting himself to the customs of his wife’s people, George Guest built a tepee of the poles cut from the forest, lined it with skins of the bear and the fur of other forest animals, tanned the softest buckskin for their clothes, ate the natural food of the Indian people, and found entertain- ment in their games and ceremonies. After living in this fashion for a few years George Guest became restless. He felt the call of his own people. His heart longed for their companionship, the laughter and music of the civilization which he had left behind. Gather- ing together all of the rich peltry which he had been storing up during his stay in the land of the Cherokees, he bade his wife farewell and set out for the settlements of the white colonists. No one knew what was in his heart as he left the kindly pzople who had sheltered him. Perhaps he intended com- ing back after he had tired of the noise and daily toil of the city. Whatever his motives may have been, he, like many a trapper before him, never returned to the little home which he had built in the wilderness. Not long after his departure, unto his wife a son was born. The young mother, perhaps surmising that the rea- son (George Guest did not return was because she was to bear him a child, named the babe Sequoia, which literally means ‘he guessed it.” This was in the year 1760 in the village of Taskigi. Sequoia was called by the rest of the Indian tribe George Guest after his father. [90] Reproduction from the original painting. Photo by Lindley Eddy SEQUOIA (CHEROKEE INDIAN) THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA This baby boy, son of George Guest and an Indian prin- cess, was carefully and tenderly cared for by the young mother that he might grow strong and skillful, she living in hopes that some day the father would return and take pride in his son. Through his childhood he was shy and reserved, prefer- ring the companionship of his mother to the boisterous play of the Indian children. Unlike the other boys of the tribe he was eager to help his mother perform the menial tasks about the home, a trait inherited no doubt from his white ‘ancestors, As he attained manhood he followed the arts of the chase and was skilled as a trapper until he received a permanent “injury while hunting. This unfortunate accident left him slightly crippled and barred him from further hunting, fight- ing and trapping with the rest of the men of the tribe. Undaunted by this misfortune, he turned his thoughts to other lines of work not requiring physical perfection. He visited the white colonies and while there became much in- terested in the work of a silversmith. During his brief stay he watched this work carefully and upon his return to his own people he decided to take up silversmithing as a pro- fession. He fashioned his own bellows and with some de- gree of skill made his own tools necessary to carry on the work. After some practice he became very skillful, fash- ioning beautiful silver ornaments, some of which are still treasured among the Cherokee people of today. The men of his tribe who had heretofore pitied him now bestowed him with praise and respect. They would sit about watching [93] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA him as he completed some intricate pattern and marvel that one of their own race should become superior in the trade of the white man. His business increased as the demand for his delicate silver ornaments grew, and he and his mother prospered. - The white colonists advanced into the territory of the Cherokees, settled upon their lands, killed their game, robbed the streams of the fish and cut down the trees of the forest. The Indians, seeing their natural resources becoming more and more depleted, became hostile. A council was called to discuss what should be done to stop the invasion of the colonists. Sequoia, by this time recognized by the head men of the tribe, was allowed a voice in the council. Sequoia had spent many hours pondering on the ways of the world. He realized that the white man was a powerful enemy. Before the men of the council he spoke, telling them of the white man’s guns with leaden bullets which could ‘shoot farther and quicker than the strongest bow, he told them of the large number of colonists who would come to the aid of the advancing settlers should they be attacked by the Cherokees. He told them of the peculiar way in which the white man sent messages written on paper and of the books and wrtiings which they had that all of the palefaces could read. Being wise beyond his time Sequoia advised the Cherokees to combat the civilization of the white man by civilizing themselves. He offered to lay aside his lucrative work as a silversmith and devote his time to devising some means by which the Cherokees might talk on paper, express- ing their feelings, conveying their messages from one to [94] THE LORE AND THE LURE .OF SEQUOIA another so that they might become stronger and more closely united. At the age of forty-nine, in the year 1809, the importance of the art of writing had so impressed him that he devoted all of his time to the study and forming of characters on paper, endeavoring to invent some means by which the Cher- okees would be able to write their own language. Tire- lessly he worked, cutting crude pictures on the bark of trees, drawing hundreds of pictures upon the surface of the rocks. He finally devised a symbol for each word of the Cherokee tongue, but still continued to study, seeking to perfect his work. | Sequoia’s comrades were unable to understand his actions. They scoffed at his strange pictures and symbols. They were offended at his choice of solitude and thought some evil spirit had taken possession of him, and he became the object of ridicule by all members of his tribe. : After twelve long years of unremitting toil his dream was partly realized. He had completed an alphabet which con- sisted of a little over a hundred syllables. He submitted it to a few of the leading men of the nation. It was adopted by the council and within a few months practically all mem- bers of the tribe, both old and young, were able to read and write their language.. This is one of the most remarkable feats ever accomplished, considering the length of time it has taken to perfect all other alphabets and the study and time required by the average individual to master them. Before Sequoia had completed his alphabet part of the Cherokees, thinking that they had little chance against the [95] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOILA white man, decided to migrate further westward so that they might live in peace, following the customs and cere- ‘monies of their forefathers unmolested by the transgressing colonists. With this in mind they crossed the Mississippi into Arkansas and settled there. . The rest of the tribe remained in the east. Sequoia stayed with the eastern Cherokees until 1822, at which time he journeyed to the land of his western brothers in order to teach them his alphabet. They received him with enthusiasm, learning the alphabet quickly as the other tribe had done. Sequoia, feeling more at home with these western people, later made his permanent home with them. With the mastering of the alphabet, the first step toward civilization, the Cherokee Indian began to prosper. The first printing with the Cherokee alphabet was a. translation of parts of the Bible into the Cherokee language in 1824. Four years later there appeared the first copy of an Indian newspaper, which was known as the Cherokee Phoenix. This paper, father of all aborigine newspapers, was printed at some expense, as the press had to be purchased in Boston and transported with difficulty to the settlement of the In- dians. Gradually the Cherokee people acquired wealth and some luxuries equal to those of the white man. The Chero- kees were recognized as a nation at Washington and Sequoia was sent to the capitol as an envoy of the western division of the Indian Nation. This prosperity lasted but a short time. The colonists soon began to ignore the rights of the Indians as a nation and disregarding the treaty between them encroached again [96] Bic KERN LAKE Photo by Lindley Eddy. THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA upon their territory. The Eastern Cherokees were forced to seek a new home with the Indians who had gone to Arkansas. There was a little dissension between the two divisions, but Sequoia, then possessed of sufficient power among them to command peace, and moving the reunited tribe to a new home in Indian Territory, established the nation there. | As Sequoia grew older he withdrew from active political life, desiring to spend the remainder of his years in the pursuit of his own ideals. Speculative ideas once again pos- sessed him and he made frequent visits to other Indian tribes in a fruitless search for the elements of a common speech and grammar. Reviving in his mind the tales heard long ago of a band of the Cherokees who before the Revolution had crossed the great plains and the Mississippi in search of a new home, he decided to go in search of them in order to reunite them with the rest of the nation and teach them his alphabet. Filled with the hope of finding this mythical band and of exploring the region to the westward and teaching any other friendly Indian tribe which he might come across, the art of reading and writing, he set out westward, He was accom- panied by a young buck of the Cherokees, and together they crossed plains and mountains, stopping to rest occasionally in some friendly Indian village, then pushing on again, their hope renewed with the dawn of each new day. His young companion died and Sequoia, now an old and feeble man, was left to journey on alone. He crossed the desert wastes into the Mexican Sierras and there one day [99] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOILA at eventide he stopped to rest, unaware that he had at last come to the end of his journey. The old man lay resting and as the last rays of his camp- fire died before him the light of life dwindled in his eyes and the great spirit of Sequoia went to join those of his forefathers in the happy land beyond the setting sun. Far out in the stillness of the night a coyote howled, voicing the message of death, and as the dawn broke over the distant mountain peak the high circling buzzards bore mute evi- dence that Sequoia was no more. As time passed the kindly winds shifted the sands to cover his bleaching bones and there he sleeps, his resting place unmarked, somewhere be- yond the Rio Grande near San Fernando Tamalpias, Mexico. What could be more fitting for his immortalization than the naming for him the oldest and largest and noblest of God’s living creations, Sequoia Gigantea. Avag NOVIg VINIOAITVD ‘ppg L2pury £9 oj0yy CHAPTER VI SOME ANIMALS OF THE PARK BEARS There are a number of wild animals in Sequoia National Park which afford the tourist a great deal of pleasure as well as original entertainment. Chief of these is the Cali- fornia Black Bear. These cumbersome inhabitants of the forest may be seen at almost any time and place in the park, but their most popular meeting place and where the visitor may be more sure of seeing them, is at the government garbage inciner- ator. Not content with the garbage put out at their dis- posal, they are very apt to visit the private camps in search of some delicacy not found in the garbage incinerator, bacon, syrup and honey being very highly favored. There is a natural tendency among the average camper to be afraid of these animals, but it must be always born in mind that the California Black Bear is harmless and, in fact, is more afraid of man than man of him. It might be well to add, however, that there is some danger in being too friendly with the bear in his wild state. . Though a thrill may be derived from feeding one of them from the hand, the bear, if timidity is shown by the person holding the food and the hand even slightly withdrawn, with bear intelligence, thinks that he is being teased, or reasons, wrongly, that some underhanded work is being done, and will either snatch greedily for the morsel of food or retal- late with a swat that may prove very injurious if his aim [ 103] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA is true. The safest policy and the one strongly advocated by all park authorities is a strict rule never to feed the bear from the hand. The garbage incinerator in the park is within easy walk- ing distance of headquarters and the most popular public camps. To this incinerator all of the garbage of the hotel and public camps is carried each evening. For the con- venience of the spectators who wish to watch the bears at this time, the superintendent has had erected rustic seats where all may sit and, feeling perfectly safe, enjoy the un- “usual sight of a bear banquet. The bears are very seldom seen here at any other time of the day but seem to have an unerring instinct as to when “dinner is served,” and begin to congregate a little while before the garbage man arrives. The food is dumped into shallow troughs, care always being taken that several of these feed boxes be put a little to one side for the benefit of the younger and weaker of the guests. The older bears are very aggressive and until their hunger is appeased will fight any young cub or more timid bear who dares attempt to eat from the same trough. It is a common occurrence to see here about twenty or more bear at one time. Aside from tle novelty of seeing wild bears roaming freely through the woods or congregated in a mutual eating place, some color and excitement is lent to the occasion as a general rule by the event of a fight or two during the dinner hour. These fights cannot be over- looked as they are staged noisily and with great zest by the combatants. When a bear starts to fight it usually rises on [ 104 ] Photo by Lindley Eddy. WarcH Tower, TOKAPAH VALLEY THE LORF AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA its hind feet, snarling loudly, drawing back the upper lip, - baring vicious-looking teeth. . They fight much as a boxer does, using powerful side raking blows with amazing rapid- ity. The bear in combat also uses teeth and claws to ad- vantage. ‘The noise they make isn’t the pleasant “woof, woof” of fairy tale origin, but more resembles the lusty bawl of a wounded calf. Mature bears have a special an- tipathy to the cubs of other bears and in at least one known instance an unfortunate cub was killed. This cub belonged to a bear very well known about the park and named by park attendants “Goldie” on account of her golden color. She was the proud mother of a pair of twins in 1927 and it was one of these little fellows that was attacked and killed by one of the other bears. Bears are greedy eaters, for the first few minutes guz- zling their food noisily. This is continued until the edge is worn off of their appetite, then they gently pick over the food, carefully raking away what they don’t want and eat- ing only the choicer bits. They are very fond of sweets and will stand on their hind legs and drink syrup or honey from a bottle. The meals served them at the garbage disposal area does not always agree even with their remarkable di- gestion and at times they are forced to resort to a few days of fasting, during which time they drink a great deal of water, until their stomachs are again ready to take up the burden of the white man’s food. The bears do not live on garbage alone, but during the summer months eat almost continually of such delectable things as grubs, ants and their larvae, as well as field mice, [ 107 ] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOI1A squirrels and occasionally lizards and snakes. Besides this unique diet the bears are fond of wild berries and fruit and the tender new grrowth of plants. In order to get the worms and grubs the bears go about turning over rocks and _ old logs. . This is accomplished with the greatest speed and dexterity. Rocks of amazing weight are sometimes flipped over with a single movement and the insects and grubs rap- idly eaten with the aid of their very long, adept tongue. There have been known instances where these friends of the forest have displayed much cunning and patience in fish- ing for trout, sometimes lying motionless for hours on the bank of a small stream waiting for the opportunity to rake out a trout with their paws, All of the bears found in the park are a species of the California Black Bear, although their actual color varies from black to a very light brown. : The park at one time was the home of the grizzly, as well ~ as its smaller brother the black bear, but it has been forty years since the last one was seen in this vicinity. The habits of the black bear are interesting since they have learned that the park is for them a haven of refuge and it is not necessary for their self-preservation to keep out of sight of man; it has been possible to study them in their natural wild state. One of the most interesting facts about the bear is their individual diversity of character. . As two humans are never found just alike, so no two bears are ever just the same dis- position. Some are always friendly, others timid, some surly and others good-tempered. There is, however, one inherent [ 108 ] = ts > = 0 c = w ‘ppg Kppury £q ojoyyg THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOILA characteristic in all, and that is caution. Any bear before coming out into the open will stop a moment and sniff and look carefully to see if the way is clear and no danger lurk- ing on the path ahead. The black bear is conspicuously dirty. They are often seen with mud or garbage clinging to them and as far as has been observed never take a bath.. They often wallow in muddy pools, particularly on hot days, but probably more for coolness rather than cleanliness. They frequently have to swim streams and seem to feel no timidity about going into the water. The adult bear swims very well, but the cubs have to have some assistance from the mother. She will gently coax them to the edge of the stream, then with the cubs clinging to her shoulders, will paddle across to safety on the opposite shore. During the summer the bears display a very voracious appetite and by fall a normal healthy specimen will be very fat and ready for its long winter hibernation. This usually begins after the first hard snowfall, the time varying with the altitude and season. The average time at Giant Forest is around the first of December. After finding some shel- tered place in a cave in the rocks or in a hollow log or tree he makes himself comfortable for the long winter sleep, which lasts until the latter part of March or first of April. The female bear usually goes into hibernation first and as her cubs are born during hibernation she takes greater care in selecting a warm and sheltered place than the male. The cubs at birth are about the size of a double fist, [111] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA weighing nine or ten ounces, and are a mouse color, their eyes being closed for about forty days. The mother bear shows a great fondness for her off- spring. She is very cautious about bringing them out and usually stays in hibernation longer than a bear without cubs. The little ones develop rapidly after they are brought out into the sunlight and are put through a rigid course of training, which insures their safety. As a rule the mother does not venture to the garbage incinerator. with her little ones until they have reached the age of five or six months. After this they are allowed to mingle with the other bears. The mother and cub seem to have a very definite means of communication. A cub is seldom seen that does not obey very promptly. The mother displays an unusual intelligence in first intro- ducing her cubs to bear society. She usually sends them up a tree while she scouts ahead, if she finds that everything is safe she goes back and they climb down at her bidding and follow behind her to the feeding ground. If by chance an ill-natured bear approaches or any other danger threatens she promptly sends them scuttling up the nearest tree. If, however, one, like a naughty child, should refuse to obey the mother she chastises it very promptly and efficiently with a cuff on the side of the head. This is not a little love pat, but often sends the youngster rolling over and over, crying like a baby. ‘I'he mothers do not believe in sparing the rod and spoiling the child. If a cub persists in being unruly she will give it an old-fashioned spanking and this will usually suffice to reform the most willful. Generally at the slight- [ 112] a. « 2 Q ~ > Zz oO tw - i = ool t= = c Q ~ ‘Cppg LoppwrT &q o030Yd THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA est command from the mother they will scamper up a tree and remain there until she gives them permission to come down. The cubs are dependent on the mother for the first year but often remain with her or with the other cubs of the litter until they reach the age of maturity at three years and start families of their own. They seem to be a very awkward and cumbersome animal but can travel with as much speed as a good horse. They travel faster going up hill than down, a fact that might be borne in mind should a person ever find it expedient to run from onc. When traveling at full speed they throw the hind feet up past the front ones with a sort of galloping motion. They can climb trees with surprising rapidity for so large and heavy an animal. The mature bear attains a weight of five to seven hundred pounds and an age of twenty-five years. When climbing trees very rapidly they make a char- acteristic snort.. The bark being clawed from the trees around the incin- erator is evidence that they have been climbed many times by the bears who have found safety on their branches, to where they have retreated from a fight below. There is a large Sequoia in the upper part of Giant For- est at the Congress group which has been used by the bears to sharpen their claws much as a cat does on a tree. The bears seem to prefer this particular tree for some unknown reason, and have used it to such an extent that the govern- ment service has contemplated putting a wire around the base’ [115] pr oN rs EE i Ul ase, SH RRR ee i ES Ns Sv Sv, wren i THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA of the tree tq keep the bark from being worn entirely away. This is known as the Bears’ Manicure ‘Tree, and always attracts the interest of the visitor. Let us ‘while we are in Sequoia National Park, like Long- fellow’s Hiawatha, consider these woodland animals our brothers and use the same consideration in infringing on their rights as we would our fellow man. SIERRA MULE DEER In close competition to the bear and in some instances surpassing it in public interest is the graceful mule deer which is found here in large numbers. They are found | from the lower foothill country up to an elevation of ten thousand feet and are probably the first animal to attract the attention of the visitor to the park. They can be seen at almost any time grazing in the meadows or wandering con- tentedly about the camps or resting in some sunny sheltered nook in the forest and need no special introduction as almost everyone is familiar with the mountain deer. One of their chief characteristics is their large ears, from eight to nine inches long and about four inches across. On account of this feature they have been given the name of “mule” deer, At maturity they stand from thirty to forty-two inches at the shoulder. These animals are cov- ered with short hair of a tan color, during the summer months, which changes to a bluish gray in the fall. They are noted for their swiftness and dainty habits. In the early spring it is impossible to determine at a glance the doe from the buck until the antlers of the buck [ 116 ] SNMV GNV 30( ‘ppg &opwi] &q oj0yg THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOI1AXA start their first growth, which is about the middle of May. The antlers first make their appearance as little knobs on top of the head, covered with a furry skin known as velvet. The yearling buck grows only straight prongs or spikes which average about eight inches in length. The antlers are very sensitive while growing and until late summer are protected by the velvet. It is a general belief that a new prong is added with each year of age. This, however, has not been proven. Some of the older bucks have as many as seven and eight prongs but it is not known as yet what tne life span of a deer may be. The antlers are given by nature to the male for their protection during the mating season, which is in October and November. During the month of August the velvet dries and falls from the antlers, which have attained a hardness that will stand the greatest battle. The shedding of the velvet is aided by the deer rubbing the antlers on brush or convenient limbs of trees. This shedding usually takes several days, although the big buck which has become the pet of Giant Forest, who spends most of his time about the lodge, shed the velvet from his antlers over night. He retired in the evening with his beautiful antlers shrouded in velvet and appeared at the lodge next morning with them bare and gleaming in the morning sun- light, free of any trace of covering. The male deer shed their antlers the first part of the year and as both sides are seldom found together it has been concluded that the antlers are dropped one at a time. The does or females are smaller than the bucks in stature but are of the same coloring. They are kept very busy in the [119] FRC a TIL | i | A a ep Fo a. i FER a AT ETO a RT TN —— THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOI1A spring attending to the fawns which are born in the latter part of June and early July. They have generally two fawns and occasionally one or three. The new born fawns are very light brown, generously spotted with white. When lying perfectly still under a bush it is almost impossible to distinguish them from the sun- light spotted shadows as their markings blend so perfectly with their surroundings. This camouflage affords them a great deal of protection while they are still too small to outrun their enemies. The doe usually keeps them in seclu- sion until they have reached the age of about two weeks, at which time they have acquired enough strength to follow their mother. At the age of two months they lose their spots and becoming stronger are able to run with greatest speed. They follow the mother for almost a year until her atten- tion is diverted to the arrival and care of the new young, at which time the yearlings are left to shift for themselves, although it is a common sight to see a mother with both yearlings and new born fawns. The deer feed upon the leaves of the mountain lilic, snow brush, manzanita, and the tender shoots of young meadow plants. They have been known to eat the bark of the incense cedar and always show a fondness for domesticated plants, especially vegetables. Many a mountaineer has been forced at some expense and hard work to build a fence about his garden high enough to protect it from the deer. The camper will find that they are very fond of all fruits and melon rinds, are tempted by stray bars of soap, and will beg for candy and are not averse to accepting an occasional [ 120 ] MJ0Y OO ‘Appa Kippur &q ojoyg THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA sandwich. Many people feed the deer from the hand, but it must be borne in mind that these are wild animals and may misunderstand sometimes the kindest motives. If a bit of food is accidentally dropped and the one feeding the deer attempts to pick it up, their intentions may not be under- stood by the deer and it is very apt to strike out with the front foot in order to recover the food. This innocent- looking front foot is in reality a very dangerous weapon. - They are cloven, resembling very much the size and shape of the foot of a sheep, being a little narrower and longer, but are exceptionally sharp and wielded with lightning-like speed The females when fighting rise up on their hind feet, striking forward with their front feet. Often gashes are ripped in the shoulders of the combatants and the scars borne by many of them bear evidence of past encounters. The wisest course to pursue is to lay the food on the ground or on a log or rock and let the deer eat in this manner rather than take a chance of being injured by an ill-natured or angered animal. The deer seem to know the boundaries of the park and seldom wander out during the hunting season. They migrate from lower to higher altitudes with the seasons but keep within the zone where they have found protection from the hunter. As long as this continues their increase will be assured. Have no fear, we come to harm you not, but to share with you this wonderland and take pleasure in your beauty and your gracefulness. [123 ] RRS Nee RE Ra THE LORE AND THE LURE: OF SEQUOIA CALIFORNIA MOUNTAIN LION The appearance of the mountain lion is like that of the house cat, but of great size in comparison. A mature lion averages, from nose to tip of tail, six to seven feet. The tail is about two and a half feet long, covered with short hair and without tassel at the end. They have a slender body, heavy legs and a short massive head, standing about two and a half feet high at the shoulder. Their coloration is grayish brown and the entire body covered with short hair. The weight ranges from a hundred to a hundred and fifty pounds. The lions make a cat-like track about four inches across. The den of the lion is usually made in the rocks and is bedded with pine needles. Very little is known about the kittens as they are seldom seen, although three were found by J. Bruce, the California state lion hunter. These little kittens were spotted when found and their eyes just opened, being approximately ten days old, and at that time about the size of a brush rabbit. The mountain lion is a carnivorous animal and a great number of deer are killed annually by them. It has been estimated that the number of deer killed averages fifty or sixty to each lion during a year. They are especially fond of fresh warm meat and seldom go back to their kill for further feeding. It is this characteristic that makes them so harmful to the deer population. Instead of returning for a second meal to an old carcass they prefer to kill a fresh animal, leaving the remains of their last kill for the smaller carnivour which always follow in their wake. [ 124] MNNWAIHD VY¥dIg ‘pp Kjpwr7 &q ojoyq ST gl i I i i : Pn SS THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA The lion is not especially dangerous to man unless per- chance he had the animal cornered or had threatened the kittens of a mother lion, there being no known instance where a man was deliberately attacked. Very few of the mountain lions remain in the park as they are being continually hunted, not only by the rangers but by hunters sent out by the California Fish and Game Commission. All things have a place in the scheme of Mother Nature. The lion has been endowed with its characteristics to keep down the ever-increasing deer population and provide tood for the smaller animals of the forest. - SQUIRRELS AND CHLPMUNKS GOLDEN MANTLED GROUND SQUIRREL Of the smaller animals of the park the Golden Mantled Ground Squirrel and the Chipmunks are of chief interest and entertainment, The Ground Squirrel is commonly known as the Copper- head on account of the copper-red color of its head and neck. The middle of the back is a grayish brown and under the body the color is light gray, in some individuals almost white. On each side is a white stripe bordered with a black stripe below and above. The tail is from two to four inches long and black down the center with a buff border. The average Ground Squirrel is from five to seven and a half inches long, not including the tail. This little animal does not climb trees, but makes his home in the ground. The opening of the burrow is approx- [ 127 ] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOTA imately two and a half inches in diameter and runs under- ground for considerable distance, making room enough for their stores. The holes are found near logs and rocks and in open places in the forest. The squirrels are often seen looking about from the tcp of a rock or a log, standing erect on their hind legs for this observation. The Golden Mantled Ground Squirrels are naturally very shy but with patience may be tamed so that they will take food from the hand. They feed upon the different seeds of the plants and trees of the forest and on roots. They are always found searching for food in the public camps. Their cheeks are pouches and they have a remark- able capacity for carrying food. In one instance an adult squirrel was given fifty watermelon seeds which he stored "in his pouches at one time before he carried them away to his burrow under a log. He runs with an even heavy gait, with no skipping or bounding movements. These squirrels go into hibernation after the first heavy snowfall which remains on the ground, and stay throughout the long winter months, emerging in the early spring after the snow is sufficiently melted to allow foraging for food. The young are born in early summer, from two to six little ones being in each brood. They have but one brood a year. SIERRA CHIPMUNK The Sierra Chipmunk is always found about the public camps and can readily be distinguished from the ground squirrel by its smaller size, quick bounding motion, and more [ 128 ] @ Q = wi tn 2 2 2 Zz -] iy tx jw) 9) Po Q « z jw) on oO S x x tr t jo Z oO wn c Q 5 = Z t= 0 QQ 2 tm w ‘Appa SipwrT &q o030yg THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUO1A subdued coloring. The tail flits from one side to the other with practically every move of the body. | These little animals are from four to five inches long, not including the flat bushy tail, which measures from three to four inches long. The back is striped with alternating dark and light stripes. The sides of the body are a reddish brown and the under surface is white. The sides of the head are covered with the alternating dark and light stripes. The Chipmunk is much more friendly than the Ground Squirrel, and after its confidence is won will climb upon the lap or into coat pockets in search of nuts or candy. Their capacity for carrying food in their cheek pouches is not as great as the Ground Squirrel. After taking the food they dart quickly away a few yards and digging a shallow hole bury the food and cover it well. Some of the seeds thus planted, that are not later dug up and consumed by the animal, under favorable conditions sprout. Thus the chip- munk is credited with reforestation. Like the Tahoe chipmunks found in the Sierras, this Chipmunk can climb trees with great rapidity and leaps from branch to branch. They always descend the trunk of the tree head downward. The nests are made in cavities or protected hollows in trees. The young average four to a brood and are born in early summer. They hibernate during the winter months and in the early spring are seen bounding around logs and rocks, seemingly very playful with each other. [131] THE LORE AND THE LURE OF SEQUOIA The Chipmunk displays a great deal of intelligence. When being fed from the hand they bury the nuts or candy as quickly as possible, returning again and again for more. If the person feeding the Chipmunk offers a small piece of paper or any other unedible thing in place of food it has been found that they never refuse to accept, but run away as briskly and happily to bury the offering as if it were food, seemingly realizing that they were being fed only for amuse- ment and if they fell down on their end of the entertain- ment, the feeding would stop. HERBERT EARL WILSON NATURALIST LECTURER Address: Sequoia National Park, California Author of THE LORE AND LURE OF YOSEMITE In its Fifth Edition THE LORE AND LURE OF SEQUOIA In its First Edition THE AUTHOR Photo by Lindley Eddy. PM-1 3%"x4" PHOTOGRAPHIC MICROCOPY TARGET NBS 1010a ANSI/ISO #2 EQUIVALENT I 10 whe = i & geo Ke fe fo EE lls I fit pee ~~? END OF TITLE