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AN

AUTHENTIC ACCOUNT

AN EMBASSY

FROM

THE KING OF GREAT BRITAIN
TO THE EMPEROR OF CHINA;

INCLUDING
CURSORY OBSERVATIONS MADE, AND INFORMATION OBTAINED, IN TRAVELLING THROUGH
THAT ANCIENT EMPIRE, AND A SMALL PART OF CHINESE TARTARY.

TOGETHER WITH A RELATION OF

THE VOYAGE UNDERTAKEN ON THE OCCASION

BY HIS MAJESTY’S SHIP THE LION, AND THE SHIP HINDOSTAN, IN THE EAST
INDIA COMPANY’S SERVICE, TO THE YELLOW SEA, AND GULF OF PEKIN;
AS WELL AS OF THEIR RETURN TO EUROPE;

WITH
NOTICES OF THE SEVERAL PLACES WHERE THEY STOPPED IN THEIR WAY OUT AND HOME;
BEING THE ISLANDS OF MADEIRA, TENERIFFE, AND ST.JAGO; THE PORT OF RIO DE
JANEIRO IN SOUTH AMERICA ; THE ISLANDS OF ST. HELENA, TRISTAN
D ACUNHA, AND AMSTERDAM ; THE COASTS OF JAVA, AND SUMATRA ;

THE NANKA ISLES, PULO CONDORE, AND COCHIN-CHINA.

TAKEN CHIEFLY FROM THE PAPERS OF

His Excellency the EARL OF MACARTNEY, Knight of the Bath, His Majesty's

Embassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary to the Emperor of China; Sir ERASMUS GOWER,
Commander of the Expedition, and other Gentlemen in the several departments of the Embassy.

 

By SIR GEORGE STAUNTON, BARONET,

Honorary Doctor of Laws of the University of Oxford, Fellow of the Royal Society of London, his Majesty’s
Secretary of Embassy to the Emperor of China, and Minister Plenipotentiary in the absence of the Embassador.

 

In Two Volumes, with Engravings ; beside a Folio Volume of Plates.
THE SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED.
VOLUME THE FIRST.

LONDON :

PRINTED BY W. BULMER AND CO.
FOR G, NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL.

MDCCXCVIII.

 

 
 
S702
87

| \728%
ADVERTISEMENT. vs

go

Tue following sheets were composed in obedience to the
public voice. The circumstances that led to an Embassy to
China, the preparations that were made, the route that was
pursued, the countries that were visited, the transactions
that took place, all excited a curiosity, which the Minster,
who originated the measure, was well disposed to gratify.
And it was thought most likely to be satisfactory that the ma-
terials for this purpose should be entrusted to a person who
had been himself acquainted, from the beginning, with every
particular of the intended expedition ; and who, afterwards,
was present at every thing that passed during the progress of
it. He has endeavoured to acquit himself of this duty, with
all the diligence that the ill health under which he laboured
would allow, in the expectation that, from the necessary
delay of the Engravings, the Public would not have to wait
Jor his part of the performance ; and in the hope, likewise,
that hus efforts would be received with greater indulgence,
than if he had come Sorward from the suggestions of his
own mind, and with a consciousness of talent and literary
attainments, which might enable him to defy the severily

of criticism.

Vi819670
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS

OF THE

FIRST VOLUME.

 

 

CHAPTER 1.

OCCASION OF THE EMBASSY.

| INTRODUCTION.— Privileges granted by the Chinese government to
the Portugueze, who were the first Europeans that visited China by
sea.—Favour shewn to the Dutch, in consequence of certain services
rendered by them.— Missionaries for the propagation of Christianity in
China promote the interest of their respective countries—general cha-
racter of the missionaries.— First attempt of the English to establish a
commercial intercourse with the Chinese at Canton, through the means
of the Portugueze at Macao, as taken from a manuscript account of the
expedition—bow English treated by the Portuguexe—quarrels with
the Chinese government—hostile attacks—unfavourable impression of
the English in the minds of the Chinese—ostensible motives of the latter
Jor permitting foreign nations to trade to Canton—their indifference as
to foreign trade—grievances suffered by Europeans, and more particu-
larly by the English, at Canton—such grievances unknown to the Empe-
ror—necessity of representing them to him—first suggestion of an em-
bassy—strengthened by a consideration of the relative situation of China
and neighbouring possessions of the English in Hindostan—additional
motives.—Fatal accident at Canton—misrepresented at the court of Pe-
kin—critical state of trade to Canton—its importance—account of the
Jirst introduction of tea in Europe—rapid increase of its consumption
VOL. L a
iv TABLE OF CONTENTS.

in England. — Possibility of securing an intimate connection with the
Chinese empire—advantages of such a connection—plan of the present
Embassy—cautions to be observed in the choice of an embassador.

page 1 to 29.

CHAPTER II.

PREPARATIONS FOR THE EMBASSY.

Though!s on patronage—safely exercised in favour of popular cha-
racters—instanced in the case of Lord Macartney—his conduct in
former situations—appointed Embassador to China.—All the persons
composing the Embassy recommended by him—names, qualifications,
and stations of most of them—difficulty of filling up the appointment of
interpreter—two Chinese qualified for that purpose found at Naples,
and brought to England.~— Interpreters useful in the selection of pre-
sents for the Emperor—nature of them.— Intention of the Embassy
announced in a letter from the Chairman of the East India Company,
sent by Commissioners to Canton—extract of that leiter—false alarm
taken at the secret views of the Embassy by one of the diplomatic
corps.— Real intent of such mission, as appears in bis Majesty's private
instructions to bis Embassador—also in his letter to the Emperor of
China. — Discretionary powers given to the Embassador to visit other
countries in the East.— All the persons belonging to the Embassy meet
at Portsmouth in readiness to embark—their general disposition.

page 30 to 52.
CHAPTER III.
PASSAGE TO MADEIRA. NOTICES OF THAT ISLAND.
Ships sail from Porismouth— Fackall tender separated from them—

are forced to anchor in Torbay.—Conveniences experienced in large
ships—reflections on the situation of passengers at sea—sea-sickness—
TABLE OF CONTENTS. Vv

midshipmen.—Ships depart from Torbay—nautical remarks.— Ar-
rival and reception at Madeira—road and anchorage of Funchal—
cursory remarks upon the island—story of an Englishman, the sup-
posed discoverer of Madeira—survey of the island by Mr. Jfobnstone—
indolence of the stronger, and industry of the weaker sex—agricul-
ture—produce of Madeira—chief trade in hands of the Englishb—tbeir
hospitality—introduce freemasonry at Funchal—that fraternity perse-
cuted till relieved by an edict from Lisbon—influence of the clergy on
the decline—population of the island—diseases most frequent—excur-
sion to the crater of an extinct volcano—geological remarks. — Defences
of Madeira—its military establishment. —Ships depart from Funchal.

page 58 to 85.

CHAPTER 1V.
PASSAGE TO TENERIFFE; TO ST. JAGO. NOTICES OF THOSE ISLANDS.

Conjectures relative to the origin of islands lying off the coast of
Africa—currents running between them.— Different appearances of
the peak of Teneriffe—coast of that island.—Road of Santa Cruz.—
Peril to which the gallantry of Admiral Blake must have exposed him
there in the last century—general view of Santa Cruz and neighbour-
hood—conversation between a native of the island and a gentleman of
the Embassy.— Excursion into the country—inland capital—jfemales
a. —Ge-
neral use of British manufactures.— Journey towards the peak—Lem-
pestuous weather—return without attaining the summit—some account
of the town and port of Oratava.— Narrative of Mr. Ffobnstone’s suc-
cessful ascent to the peak.—Inbabitants of the island supplied with ice
throughout the year from neighbourhood of the peak.—Religious habits of
the people — Escape of a young lady from a convent during the prepara-
tions for ber taking the veil.—Wealth of the bishop of the Canary islands

                                                    

 
vi TABLE OF CONTENTS.

~—his application of it—character.—Commerce of the Canaries. —Re-
venue of the crown—monopolies.—Volcanic appearances of Teneriffe—
extent—climate.—Descendants of original inbabitants, very few—causes
of their decrease.—Canary birds—population of the several Canary
islands.—Route to the Cape Verde islands.— Arrival at Port Praya
in the island of St. fago—distress of an English sailor found upon the
beach—bis account of the wreiched state of the island from drought—
general view of the port and neighbourbood—vegetation—tree of vast
size.— Miserable condition of the governor, and of the inbabitants,
and cattle, in all the Cape Verde islands—present reduced popula-
tion—some account of harbours in these islands.—Geological remarks
in the island of St. fago—town of St. fago in ruins.—Vessels in
Port Praya.—Scene of action between Admiral Suffren and Com-
modore Yobnstone.— Instance of political morality. — Monopoly of slave
trade in St. Jago—Tlittle value of money there.— Ships sail from Port
Praya. page 86 to 141

CHAPTER V.

PASSAGE OF THE LINE. COURSE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC. HARBOUR, CITY,
AND COUNTRY OF RIO DE JANEIRO.

Observations on the relative position of the African and American
continent.— Precautions observed by commander of the Lion for the
preservation of his crew.— Reflections on origin of ceremony in crossing
the Line—bow performed.— Remarks on winds and currents in cross-
ing the Atlantic.— Island of Frio.— Directions for entering into, and
observations on, barbour of Rio de faneiro—general view of city and
harbour of Rio—shops full of British manufactures—cause of un-
bealthiness of Rio—gay disposition of its inbabitants—external ceremo-
nies of religion observed—dress, manners, customs—public walks—
botanic garden—cochineal insect, and plant on which it feeds, with
TABLE OF CONTENTS. vil

manner of preparing the dye—manufactory for whale oil—slave trade
—situation and disposition of those imported into Rio.—Character of
original inhabitants of the Brazils—face of the country behind Rio, and
its produce.—Valley of Tijouca.— Division of the Brazils into several
governments—condition of each—productions—grievances of the settlers
—conspiracy formed by some of the principal among them—alteration in
their disposition—views of independence.— False policy of Portugueze
government towards the Brazils.— Defences and military establishment
of Rio—attention of viceroy to the Embassador—imminent danger of
the Lion in sailing out of the harbour — Departure. page 142 to 190.

CHAPTER VI.

PASSAGE TO THE SOUTHERN PART OF THE ATLANTIC AND OF THE INDIAN:
OCEAN. VIEW OF THE ISLANDS OF TRISTAN D ACUNHA IN THE FORMER,

AND OF THOSE OF ST. PAUL AND AMSTERDAM IN THE LATTER.

Uniformity of the winds within and near the tropics—preparations
made against bad weather apprebended beyond them.— Uncommon
effects of sea-sickness on one gentleman on board the Lion.—Languor
how avoided by passengers at sea—occupations.— Distinctions observed
in ships of war.— Arrival at, and view of, islands of Tristan d’ Acunha—
part, probably, of a chain of subaqueous mountains.—Plans formerly
in. contemplation for forming a settlement on Tristan d’ Acunba.— Ships
proceed from thence to the eastward .—Currents near the Cape of Good
Hope—hard gale of wind.— Arrival at the islands of St. Paul and
Amsterdam—men unexpectedly perceived on the latter. — Narrative
of Perron and his companions—their occupation there—abundance of
seals and sea lions.—Dimensions of a cove opposite the anchorage—
boiling springs round its. sides—a great crater—whole island volca-
nic—part still in a state of inflammation—extent of the island—fish
and fowl abundant. — Perron conducts some of the gentlemen round.
viii TABLE OF CONTENTS.

the island—in the mean time is despoiled of part of his property.—
Ships depart from island of Amsterdam. page 191 to 227.

CHAPTER VII.

ENTRANGE INTO THE STRAITS OF SUNDA. VISIT TO BATAVIA AND BANTAM
IN THE ISLAND OF JAVA. VIEW OF THE SOUTHERN EXTREMITY OF THE
ISLAND OF SUMATRA. PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAITS OF BANKA TO

PULC-CONDORE.

Lion and Hindostan separate in attempting to discover vessels bound
Jor Europe.— Symptoms of scurvy make their appearance in the crews
—pains taken against it —View of islands on entering into the straits
of Sunda.— Different parts of the earth differently produced —Gra-
dations in the scale of animated nature.— Aquatic animals—marine
substances.— Ships proceed to Batavia—reception of Embassador
there—dispatches from Commissioners at Canton, favourable to the
views of the Embassy—contents communicated to the Dutch govern-
ment—entertainment given by Governor General—beautiful appear-
ance of country immediately about Batavia—yet extremely unhealthy
to Europeans—saying on the occasion—diseases to which Europeans
are subject there—state of the atmosphere—little diminution of the
heat at night—uniformity of temperature favourable to the preserva-
tion of Lhe teethb—singular custom of Favanese with regard to theirs
—difficulty of filling employments by proper persoms—necessity of
procuring military recruits from Germany—their miserable condition
at Batavia—defence and military establishment there—commerce of
that place with China—climate not hostile to Chinese settlers—industry
and moderation of the latter, contrasted with indolent and luxurious
lives of the Dutch who reside there—how the latter spend their time
—manners, dress, and disposition of the Dutch ladies at Batavia—
how power of the Dutch maintained.— State of the native favanese—
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 1X

of imported slaves—these chiefly females—Emperor of Fava’s female
military guard—other sovereigns in fava—passion of Favanese for
gaming—fatal consequences—running a muck.— Revolt of the Chinese
settlers against the Dutch government—many of them put to death—
apology made to the Emperor of China—remarkable reply of his Impe-
rial Majesty—Chinese at Batavia retain their native customs—in-
stanced in the veneration for their ancestors, and manner of burying
their dead—utility of Chinese settlers at Batavia.— Descendants of
Portugueze in Batavia retain their language, but change their religion
Jor that of Calvin— Dutch management of the spice trade.—Descrip-
tion of the nutmeg plant—clove—cinnamon—pepper—areca nut—re-
port of Upas, or poison tree— Mangosteen, and other fruits.— River
of Batavia abounding in crocodiles—superstitious notions of the Fava-
nese concerning them—similar to those of the Egyptians—culture about
Batavia—description of the town— population of Batavia, and of the
districts round it belonging to the Dutch.—Ships sail from Batavia.—
Lion struck upon an unknown rock—necessity of purchasing the Cla-
rence as a tender —On return to straits of Sunda, unexpectedly find
there the [fackall brig—some of the gentlemen survey the mouth of the
straits—ascertain longitude of several places—in one place discover
caves filled with the swallows’ nests, highly prized in China— ¥ava-
nese method of taking those nests.— Description of Malays on the coasts
of Java and Sumatra—instance of apparent civilization in these people,
Jollowed by another of savage inbumanity—uvarious remarks in the
straits of Sunda—uvisit to Bantam—entertainments of the favanese—
luzuriance of vegetation in Fava.— Squadron sails for the straits of
Banka.—Floating islands.— Mines of tin in the island of Banka, pro-
Jitable to Dutch East India Company —Squadron pass by Pulo-Lingen
—arrival at Pulo-condore—bay on eastern side described—latitude and
longitude of the island ascertained by observation—inhabitants—dread
the squadron—desert their bouses—Ieave a letter in one of them for
x ; TABLE OF CONTENTS.

the squadron—answer, together with a present deposited in the same
place—bad weather—danger in a boat—accident on board the Hin-
dostan—departure of the squadron. page 228 to g17.

CHAPTER VIII.

COCHIN-GHINA.,

Sickly state of the squadron.— Turon bay in Cochin-china a desirable
place to refresh at—route thither—pilot taken out of a boat upon the
coast of Cochin-china—his astonishment and alarms—directions for
entering into Turon barbour—where squadron anchors—suspicion of
hostile intentions on the part of the squadron—Ilate revolutions in Cochin-
china—arrival of a person of rank from tbe sovereign of the neighbour-
ing country, with presents to the Embassador—barbour and town of
Turon—dinner given by the Governor of the place—agility of the
natives—sbhittlecock played with the feet—ingenuity of natives exem-
plified—method of purifying sugar—iransfer of females on easy terms
—oppressive conduct of the upper, bumiliating situation of the lower,
ranks—music cultivated in Cochin-china—entertainment and play given
to the Embassador— British manufactures in use among the natives
—how supplied—military establishment of the country—elephants
trained for war—killed for food—precious metals found in the moun-
tains of Cochin-china—other commodities—seldom brought down to
the plains since the troubles—inbabitants of the Sormer a different
race from the latter—of these the diet—dress—industry—corrupt
Judicature.—Curious insect found near Turon—description, and geo-
metrical admeasurement, of that barbour—climate—periodical inun-
dattons—danger of trading to coast of Cochin-china without a pro-
tecting seltlement—instanced in the narrow escape of a vessel sent
thither from Bengal. — Description of the island of Callao.— Advan-
tages of a setilement at Turon.— Death of the purser of the Lion—
TABLE OF CONTENTS. x1

master of the Lion detained for some days by the natives in an attempt
to explore some part of the country—his account of what he saw and
suffered. —Extent of Cochin-chinese dominions.— Departure of the
squadron announced to the sovereign of Turon—further presents
from him. —Squadron sails. page 318 to g82.

CHAPTER IX.

PASSAGE TO THE LADRONE ISLANDS NEAR MACAO; AND THENCE TO CHU-SAN.

TRANSACTIONS AND OBSERVATIONS THERE.

Conjectures on height and irregularity of tides in gulf of Tung-quin.
— Arrival at Ladrone islands—some account of them.— Brigs ordered
to Macao.—One of the Chinese interpreters withdraws from the ser-
vice of the Embassy—his conduct contrasted with that of his colleague.
— Information obtained at Macao from the Commissioners, relative to
the impression made on the officers of government at Canton, on the
Embassy being announced to them—their conduct in consequence—
their eagerness to obtain a list of the presents—to find out the views
of the Embassy.—Two Chinese merchants ordered from Canton to
Pekin to serve as interpreters—hbow and why prevented.— European
missionaries formerly appointed to that office by the Chinese court—
natives now preferred —Squadron in proceeding through the straits
of Formosa meets with much bad weather—reasons for supposing such
weather to be frequent there.— Reach the Quee-san islands—multitude
of Chinese vessels under sail—former chart of Chu-san islands cor-
rected—Clarence dispatched to town of Chu-san—general descrip-
tion of Chu-san islands.—Visit to island of Lowang.—Chu-san bar-
bour.— Visit to governor of Chu-san—to neighbouring city of Ting-bai
—its streets—hbouses—markets—dress of the people—feet of the women
cramped—conjectures on the origin of such a custom.—Why Europeans
more affected by hot weather than Chinese. —Governor’s ball of audience.

VOL. I. b
X11 TABLE OF CONTENTS.

—number and variety of handsome lanthorns—Ilarge lanthorns entirely
made of born—art of making such,—dwarf trees in ball of audience—
art of dwarfing trees.—Pilots procured to conduct the squadron
through the Yellow sea.—Governor’s visit to the Clarence—Chinese
physicians attendance on a sick person on board—mode of feeling the
pulse.— Departure of Clarence from Chu-san harbour. —Alarming
whirlpool.—Clarence joins the ships —Embassador declines an invi-
tation to go ashore.—Squadron sets sail. page 38g to 437.

CHAPTER X.

NAVIGATION THROUGH THE YELLOW SEA. EMBASSADOR'S ENTRANCE INTO
THE RIVER LEADING TO TIEN-SING.

Extent of the Chinese coast.— Boundaries of the Yellow sea.—Conduct
of Chinese pilots. — Low state of navigation among the Chinese—causes
thereof —Cbhinese compass described—its advantages.—Opinions of the
Chinese regarding magnetic attraction.— Reflections of Caung-shee,
Emperor of China.— Progress of the squadron through the Yellow sea—
Hindostan meets the Endeavour brig.— Account of Mr. M-Cluer’s stay
at one of the Pelew islands—disposition of the people there—of those of
New Guinea.—Continuance of the squadron's navigation.—Conjectures
on the formation of a large island near the east coast of China. —Se-
veral islands discovered through the Yellow sea.— Peninsula of Shan-
tung—pbays upon its northern shore.—City and road of Ten-choo-foo.
— Instance of Chinese manners.— Proclamation of the Embassador—
its effect. —Strait of Mi-a-tau—extraordinary direction of the tides
—causes thereof —Captain Campbell's report of the bay of Mi-a-tau.
—Squadron enters the gulf of Pekin—arrives outside the bar be-
Sore the river Pei-ho— Jackall dispatched in quest of a promised bar-
bour—none found—reasons why no good harbour in that gulf—Mr.
Hiitner’s account of the shore.—Arrival of two mandarines on board
TABLE OF CONTENTS. xiii

the Lion—description of them.— Presents of provisions sent for the
squadron.— Peculiar difficulty for foreigners to pronounce or under-
stand the Chinese language.— Description of some of the presents in-
tended for the Emperor.— Presents transhipped into Chinese vessels,
in order to cross the bar—particulars concerning those vessels.—
Instructions to Sir Erasmus Gower, during the Embassador’s stay on
shore.— Parting of his Excellency and suite from the ships—crossing
the bar—entrance into the river Pei-ho.— Arrival at Ta-coo.

page 438 to 518.
 
A LIST OF THE PLATLS

CONTAINED IN THE FOLIO VOLUME.

 

 

No.l. A general chart, on Mercator’s projection, of the track of the
ships from England to the gulf of Pe-che-lee, or Pekin, and of their return
to England; containing also the limits of the Chinese empire, as extended
by the conquests of the present Emperor Chen-lung.

II. A view ofthe eastern side of the island of Amsterdam, in the Indian
ocean, taken from the anchorage about a mile distant from the shore; also
sketches of the island, and a plan of the great crater. This island, of vol-
canic origin, is still in a state of inflammation. It lies in latitude thirty-.
eight degrees forty-two minutes south, and longitude seventy-six degrees
fifty-four minutes east of Greenwich.

III. A chart of part of the coast of Cochin-china, including Turon har-
bour, and the island of Callao; to which is added, a view of the entrance
into Turon bay, the southern peak of the peninsula Tien-cha, bearing west
by north, distant ten miles.

On approaching this peninsula from the southward or westward, the
entrance into the harbour appears to lie between it and a curious group of
marble rocks, which in fact are connected by a very low and narrow
isthmus, not visible from the deck at the above distance of ten miles.
The entrance is round the northern point of the peninsula.

IV. A chart, on Mercator’s projection, containing the track and sound-
xvi A LIST OF THE PLATES

ings of the Lion, Hindostan, and tenders, from Turon bay, in Cochin-
china to the mouth of the Pei-ho river in the gulf of Pe-che-lee, or
Pekin. i

Asa great part of this track, namely, from the Chu-san islands to the
western extremity of the gulf of Pe-che-lee, or Pekin, was never before
navigated by European vessels, at least no accounts being extant of such
navigation, particular pains were in this instanck taken to ascertain the
squadron’s exact situation at noon of each day, as to latitude by meridional,
or when the weather was unfavourable for these, by double altitudes; and
as to longitude, either by the mean of several time-keepers, whose rate of
going had been determined near Nicholas point on the island of Java; or
by observations of the distance of the moon's limb from the sun or fixed
stars, taken by several persons at the same time, whenever the weather and
situation of the objects would admit of it. Several sets of these being taken
directly opposite, and in sight of, the bold projecting promontory of Shan-
tung, and also when the squadron was afterwards at anchor near the mouth
of the Pei-ho in the gulf of Pekin, it may be presumed that these situations,
as well as indeed the whole track, are laid down with a tolerable degree of
exactness. :

V. A chart of several clusters of islands lying on the eastern coast of
China, usually called the Chu-san islands, with the track of the Clarence
from the southernmost group, called the Quee-sans, to the harbour of Chu-
san. This plate contains also a sketch of the harbour of Chu-san, taken:
with the compass from the anchorage of the Clarence, and the appearance
of the surrounding lands, as seen from the same spot.

Of these islands, a chart had formerly been published; but the situa-
tion of the Holderness rock, tho taken exactly from the journal of the
ship of that name, is very erroneously marked upon it; and it is of ma-
terial consequence to know its exact position ; nor is any notice taken in
_ that chart of the rock on which the Hindostan struck; nor the proper
CONTAINED IN THE FOLIO VOLUME, xvii

track laid down, through the very intricate passages amongst those nume-
rous islands. It was therefore thought that a new chart, with these and
other alterations and additions, might not be useless to. the future navi-

gator.

VI. A sketch by compass of the coat of the promontory of Shan-tung,
with the track of the ships, and the soundings, from the place of first mak-
ing the land to the strait of Mi-a-tau.

From the great extension of this promontory, or bold point of land into
the Yellow sea towards the kingdom of Corea, beyond the rest of the Chi-
nese coast, it was conceived there might be a considerable degree of danger
and difficulty in sailing round it into the gulf of Pekin. The squadron,
however, standing well in towards the coast, doubled the promontory in
sight of the land the greatest part of the way, which furnished an excellent
opportunity of marking down the different points, and the depth of water.
It was of importance to have determined that there was no harbour fit for
large ships in the strait, or among the islands of Mi-a-tau, as had been sup-
posed from the information of Chinese pilots, and to have discovered an
excellent bay on the northern coast of the promontory of Shan-tung, where
none had been expected. This bay, and the whole coast, are laid down with
as great accuracy as circumstances would allow.

VII. Views of the land which forms the eastern extremity of the pro-
montory of Shan-tung. :

This land, or an island near it, being the first likely to be seen by ships
sailing through the Yellow sea, and bound for the gulf of Pekin; it was
thought expedient to ascertain the exact position of the same, and to give
names to such parts as were not so distinguished in the charts of the Chinese
empire. This plate contains also a view of the coast near, and part of the
city wall of Ten-choo-foo, taken from the anchorage of the Hindostan, in
the strait of Mi-a-tau.
XVIil A LIST OF THE PLATES

VIII. A sketch of the Pei-ho, or White river, from its entrance into
the gulf of Pekin to the city of Tong-choo-foo, in which are marked down
the cities, towns, principal villages, and military posts situated upon its
banks. This plate contains also a sketch of the road from Pekin to Zhe-hol,
in Chinese Tartary ; in which are situated, at certain distances, six different
palaces and gardens for the accommodation of the Emperor of China, when

travelling between those two Dn

1X. A sketch ofa journey from Zhe-hol in Tartary, by land, to > Pekin,

and from thence by water to Han- nhs foo, in China.

X. A sketch of a journey from Han-choo-foo to Quang-choo-foo, or
Canton, in China.

These two plates comprehend all that extent of country lying between
the town of Zhe-hol, in Chinese Tartary and the city of Canton, at the
southern extremity of the empire, a distance not less than fifteen hundred
miles. The rivers and canals that open a direct communication between
the capital and the port of Canton; all the cities of the first, second, and
third order, with many considerable towns and villages, situate upon the
banks of those canals and rivers; the general surfaces, as well as produce,
of the different parts of the country that occurred in this route ; with the
temperature, as shewn by Fahrenheit’s thermometer, at the time they were
passed, are marked down on these sketches.

XI. A plan of the city and harbour of Macao, a colony of the Portu-
gueze, situate at the southern extremity of the Chinese empire; containing
references to all the forts, colleges, convents, and other public buildings and
places of note; and also the depth of water, and nature of the ground,
in every part of the inner harbour, as well as in the space between the
peninsula and the northern entrance into the Typa; taken from an accu-
rate survey made by a gentleman on the spot.
CONTAINED IN THE FOLIO VOLUME. X1X

XII. A leaf of the cactus opuntia, or prickly pear, with the cochineal
insects that feed upon it. The male and female of those insects in the dif-
ferent stages of their existence and growth ; and a fly, found in numbers
upon the same plant, and supposed to feed upon the cochineal insect; ac-

curately delineated from nature, at Rio de Janeiro, in South America.

XII. The fire-backed pheasant of Java, a new species thus described
by Doctor Shaw. ¢ Black pheasant with a steel-blue gloss ; the sides of
“the body rufous; the lower part of the back fiery-ferruginous; the tail

¢¢ rounded; the two middle feathers pale yellow-brown.”

X1V. View of a village on the borders of Turon bay, in Cochin-
china, with a group of the natives amusing themselves with a game of
shuttlecock, which they strike with the sides and soles of their feet instead
of battledores.

XV. View in Turon bay, taken from the point of a small island, on
which a few of the natives are assembling for the purpose of making an
offering to the deity in an humble temple, consisting only of a few poles
that support a thatched roof. The boat approaching the island, with the
rowers standing, is one belonging to the governor of the district. The

Lion and Hindostan are seen at anchor in the bay.

XVI. A mandarine, or magistrate of Turon, attended by his pipe-
bearer. These, with few variations, are the usual dresses worn by the
natives of Gochin-china, and differ little in their general appearance from
those of China.

XVII. A Chinese military post. Military posts of a similar kind, but
various in their form and plan of construction occur at certain distances,
greater or less as may be deemed necessary, for the internal peace of the

VOL. I. c
XX : A LIST OF THE PLATES

empire, for the protection of travellers on the public roads, and of vessels
on canals and rivers. Fach contains in general from six to twelve men,
who are drawn out in their best military attire, as represented in the plate,
whenever a person of consequence passes by. Their dress is then taken
off, and laid up carefully till a future occasion. The soldier on the top of
the fort gives the signal, by striking a brazen instrument, called by the
Chinese, Loo, of the approach of the person to be saluted, that the men may
be prepared. : Near to the military post there is frequently a small temple,
as at the end of the wall in the present plate, in which is contained, among

other deities, the god of war.

"XVIIIL. Chinese military drawn out in compliment to the Embassador,
and falling on their knees, to receive him, where he is supposed to be about
to land. Beside the military posts, mentioned in the last number, a con-
siderable establishment of troops is kept up in every city of the empire.
When the walls of any of these were approached by the barges of the Em-
bassy, about three hundred soldiers were drawn up along the bank of the
river or canal, in a single row, the officer’s tent was pitched, the military
band began to play, and a salute of three small petards, placed perpendi-
cularly in’ the ground, was fired off: when the barge of the Embassador, or
those which carried Chinese men of rank, passed before the officer’s tent.

XIX. Instruments of war used by the Chinese. ‘
These may serve as a specimen of a few amongst the many kinds in use
among the military of China.

XX. View of one of the western gates of the city of Pekin.

The nine gates of this city resemble each other very nearly ; except that
the projecting wall in some is square, in others circular. The two lofty
buildings are pretty much the same in all. . The ditch, which in fact is a

branch of a river, runs along the southern and western walls only of the
CONTAINED IN THE FOLIO VOLUME. XX1

city, and on these sides divides it from the suburbs, which are very consi-
derable at each gate, and a bridge of communication at those by which the
river passes. The small two-wheeled carriage crossing the bridge, and
drawn by one horse, is of the same kind as those which stand for hire in
the streets of Pekin, as do hackney coaches in England, and is the only

kind of carriage used in the country.

XXI. Plan of the hall of audience, and of the three courts leading to
it, at the palace of Yuen-min-yuen, in the neighbourhood of Pekin, with
the arrangement of some of the presents, as they were placed for the Em-

peror’s inspection.

XXII. A view of the front of the hall of audience at the palace of
Yuen-min-yuen. This plate will serve to convey a general idea of the
superior kind of buildings in China, which are always erected on plat-
forms of stone-work, and their large projecting roofs are supported on co-

lumns of wood.

XXIII. Plans, sections, and elevations of the great wall of China, and
of some of the towers near the pass of Koo-pe-koo. The wall appears to
be generally of an uniform construction and dimensions throughout, but
the towers differ in their plan and strength, according to their situation ;
those erected across a pass, or upon a river, so as to be easily approached
by an enemy, are the highest and strongest. Some consist of one, and
others of two stories, beside the platform on which the parapet stands, and
that part which is below the terrace of the wall, this being either of solid
masonry or brick-work, or retaining walls only, with the intermediate

space filled with earth.

XXIV. A view of part of the great wall of China, called by the natives

Van-lee-ching, or wall of ten thousand lee, taken near the pass of Koo-pe-
XX1i A LIST OF THE PLATES

koo. At this place the wall is carried over the summits of the highest
mountains, some of which are not less than three thousand feet in perpen-
dicular height, and appear to be almost inaccessible. Some of the towers
are in ruins, as that in the fore-ground of the view; but others, which more
immediately command the passes, are kept in good repair. This wall,
according to the charts of the empire made from actual surveys, is more
than fifteen hundred miles in length, and in many places it is double, and
even triple, for the better defence of the passes. The masonry and brick-
work in the towers alone exceed those of all London.

XXYV. The approach of the Emperor of China to his tent in Tartary,
to receive the British Embassador.

This tent was erected for the purpose, in a part of the grounds belonging
to the palace, and called Van-shoo-yuen, or garden of ten thousand trees.
Before the tent were arranged in two ranks, a great number of persons, con-
sisting of tributary princes, representatives of sovereigns, ministers of state,
governors of provinces, officers of the tribunals, and other mandarines of
rank, waiting the approach of the Emperor, who is borne in an open chair
supported by sixteen men. The British Embassador and his suite stood at

the front of the rank, on the right hand side, in advancing towards the tent.

XXVI. Plan, section, and elevation of Poo-ta-la, or great temple
in which the lamas worship, near Zhe-hol, in Tartary. The roof of
the middle part of this immense building is said to be covered with tiles

of solid gold.

XXVII. A view of Poo-ta-la, or great temple, near Zhe-hol, in Tar-
tary ; with the town of Zhe-hol in the distance, taken from a hill in the
Emperor's park. The smaller buildings which surround this large fabric
are the habitations of the priests, or lamas, about eight hundred of whom
are attached to this temple.
CONTAINED IN THE FOLIO VOLUME, xx11l

XXVIII. Punishment of the Cha. This, usually called by Europeans
the Cangue, is a common punishment in China for petty offences. It con-
‘sists of an enormous tablet of wood, with a hole in the middle to receive the
neck, and two smaller ones for the hands, of the offender, who is ‘sometimes
sentenced to wear it for weeks or months together. He is suffered, pro-
“vided his strength will enable him, to walk about; but the burden is so
great, that he is generally glad to seek for a support of it against a wall or a
tree. Ifa servant, or runner of the civil magistrate, takes it into his head
that he has rested too long, he beats him with a whip made of leathern
thongs till he rises. Near the gate of the Embassador’s hotel, in Pekin,
half a dozen of these instruments were placed in readiness, to clap upon the
shoulders of any of the Chinese servants who should happen to transgress.

XXIX. A view in the gardens of the imperial palace of Pekin. This
is an artificial mount thrown up round the palace of Pekin, and is that
on which the last of the Chinese Emperors, before the accession of a Tartar
family, on hearing that the usurpers had entered his capital, first stabbed
his daughter, and then hanged himself. The mountains at a distance are

those behind the palace of Yuen-min-yuen.

XXX. A dramatic scene on the Chinese stage. The principal story of
the piece, of which this scene represents a part, is taken from the ancient
history of the country. It opens with the account of an emperor of China
and his empress, who, in the midst of perfect felicity and apparent security,
are surprised by a sudden revolt among their subjects. A war ensues; many
battles are fought upon the stage; and at length the arch-rebel, a general of
cavalry, characterized on the stage by a whip in his hand, overcomes his
sovereign, whom he slays with his own hand. The captive empress ap-
pears in all the agonies of despair naturally resulting from the loss of her
husband, as well as of her state and dignity, and indeed danger of her ho-
nour. Whilst she is uttering lamentations, and rending the skies with her
XX1V A LIST OF THE PLATES

complaints, the conqueror enters. Of this scene the plate is a representa-
tion. He approaches her with respect, addresses her in a gentle tone,
attempts to soothe her sorrows, talks of love and adoration ; and, like
Richard fhe Third and Lady Anne in Shakspeare, in less than half an
hour, prevails on her to dry up her tears, to forget her dead husband, and
to console herself with a living one. The persuasions of her own officers
and attendants in favour of the general, have more weight with the lady
than the supplicating priest, who, prostrate on the ground, intreats her not
to marry the murderer of her husband. The piece concludes as usual with
the nuptials, and a grand procession.

The dresses worn by the ancient Chinese are still preserved in the drama.
The band of music has its situation on the back part of the stage; there is
no change of scene; and, in general, the front of the theatre is exposed to
the open air.

XXXI. View of a Pai-loo, or, as it has usually been called, a triumphal
arch. These sort of ornamented buildings are common in every part of
China; some of stone, and others of wood. Most of them have been
erected at the public expence, for perpetuating the memory of such persons
as have rendered public services to their country, but many have been raised
for the mere gratification of personal vanity. On some erections of a similar
kind, the characters denote them to be of no further use than to point out,
like guide-posts, the distances of places from the spot on which they stand.
The building on the right hand corner of the plate is a tower or fortress,
and that on the left, a place for theatrical representations, which are always
entirely open in front. In the centre, near the foot of the triumphal arch,
the punishment of the bastinado, or bamboo, is inflicting on a person for
misbehaviour, by order of a civil magistrate.

XXXII. A Quan, or Mandarine, bearing a letter from the Emperor of

China. These may be considered as exact portraits of both man and horse.
CONTAINED IN THE FOLIO VOLUME. XXV

The letter bound across his shoulders in a wooden case covered with silk,
was one from the Emperor of China to the King of Great Britain, and was
carried before the Embassador along the paved road from Pekin to Tong-
choo-foo. All passengers on the road, on meeting the officer charged
with this imperial letter, were obliged to shew a proper respect to it, by
stepping off the paved road, and if on horseback, -by dismounting, while
it passed.

XXXIII. A view near the city of Lin-tsin, on the banks of the grand
canal. The principal building in this view is a Ta, or Pagoda, as it has
usually, but improperly, been called. These buildings generally consist of
five, seven, or nine stories, and as many projecting roofs; and their height
is from four to seven of their diameters. They are never intended for places
of religious worship, as the Indian term given to them seems to imply,
and as has been generally imagined ; but have either been erected as monu-
ments to the memory of some great person or event, or merely as objects
for the termination of a view; and for this latter purpose they very fre-
quently crown the summit of the highest hills. The buildings on each side
of the plate, with pillars erected in front, are houses inhabited by public
officers of the district; and the figures are groups of peasantry assembling
on the banks of the canal, to see the barges of the Embassy pass.

XXXIV. Plan and section of a sluice, or floodgate, on the grand canal
of China, and of an inclined plane between two canals of different levels.
The canals of China have no locks, like those of Europe; and their flood-
gates are totally different. These consist merely of a few planks let down
separately one upon another, by grooves cut into the sides of the two stone
abutments that project from each bank, leaving a space in the middle just
wide enough to admit a passage for the largest of their vessels. As few parts
of a Chinese canal are level, but have a current one way or the other, the
use of these sluices, assisted by others cut through the sides of the banks, 1s
XXvi A LIST OF THE PLATES

to regulate the quantity of water in the canal. The glacis, or inclined
plane, is had recourse to only where the surface of the country is too uneven
to admit of a continued canal. The vessels are forced up these planes by
means of capstans fixed on each pier; and if one machine on each side be
found insufficient, holes are ready made on the top of the pier for receiving
others. With the assistance of a number of men, who obtain a livelihood
by constantly attending at those places, vessels are made to pass from one

canal to another with great expedition.

XXXYV. Chinese barges of the Embassy passing through a sluice, or
floodgate on the grand canal. When the planks that form these floodgates
are first drawn up, and the surface of the water on one side happens to be
considerably higher than that on the other, the vessels are carried through
by the current with great rapidity. Tho the Chinese are very dexterous in
the management of their vessels thus shooting through sluices, yet to pre-
vent the possibility of accident, the soldiers that are stationed at small mili-
tary posts, usually erected on the abutments, attend on each side with fenders
of leather stuffed with wool, or some other soft substance, to prevent the
barge from striking against the stone pier. The double-roofed building on
the left pier is a temple of religious worship, of which kind there are great
numbers in almost every part of the country.

XXXVI. View across the lake Pao-yng, shewing its separation from the
grand canal, by a strong embankment of earth. In this lake an extensive
fishery is carried on, principally by means of the Pelicanus Sinensis, or
fishing corvorant of China. These birds are here trained up to the exercise
of fishing, and sent from hence to all parts of the empire. At this place
the barges of the Embassy halted, while their large single masts were taken
down and others erected in their stead, consisting each of two poles meeting
together at the top, and extending at the bottom to each side of the vessel,
where they turn on swivels, and may thus be lowered down speedily, so as
CONTAINED IN THE FOLIO VOLUME. XXvil

to permit the barges to pass through the arches of bridges, which are very

frequent in the southern part of the grand canal.

XXXVII. The Pelicanus Sinensis, or fishing corvorant of China. This
bird appears to be a different species from any hitherto described by natu-
ralists. Its specific character may be thus distinguished. Brown pelican,
or corvorant, with white throat; the body whitish beneath, and spotted
with brown ; the tail rounded : the irides blue; the bill yellow.

XXXVIII. View of the suburbs of a Chinese city. The double-roofed
building on the right hand side of the print is a temple of religious wor-
ship. The small box supported on four poles, and ascended by a ladder,
a look-out house, one of which is erected at almost every military post; and
the building with the gateway through it serves as a repository for arms,
clothes, and other military stores. The method of fishing with a net
stretched out by four pieces of bamboo, and suspended to a long pole, as in
the hands of the figure sitting on the bank of the river in the fore-ground,

is an universal practice throughout the empire.

XXXIX. A view of the Chin-san, or golden island, in the Yang-tsé-
kiang, or great river of China. This island, situate in the middle of the
Kiang where the width is near three miles, is the property of the Emperor.
It is interspersed with pleasure-houses and gardens, and contains a large
monastery of priests, by which the island is almost entirely inhabited. A
vast variety of vessels in form and size are constantly moving about on this
large river. That on the left side of the print is an accurate portrait of a

Chinese ship of war.

XL. Chinese barges of the Embassy preparing to pass under a bridge.
Tho some of the bridges in China are sufficiently high to admit of vessels
to pass through their arches without striking their masts, yet as there are

VOL. I. : d
XXViil A LIST OF THE PLATES

others of a lower construction, the masts of all their barges are contrived to
lower occasionally. To prevent carriages from passing over those bridges
that are intended only for the accommodation of foot passengers, they
are ascended by steps, as appears upon that on the left side of the print,
under which a communication is formed between the grand canal and ano-
ther branching off from it, without any inconvenience to foot passengers,
~ or those people whose employment is to track the barges.

XLI. View of the Lake See-hoo, and tower of the thundering winds,
taken from the Vale of Tombs. This lake, on the borders of which stands
the wealthy and extensive city of Han-choo-foo, with the surrounding
scenery, is accounted one of the grandest, as well as most beautiful, spots in
all China. The Lui-fung-ta, or tower of the thundering winds, standing
on the point of a promontory jetting into the lake, forms a bold object. It
is said to have been built in the time of the philosopher Confucius, who
lived three centuries before the Christian ra. In the Vale of Tombs the
variety of monuments is almost infinite. Abundance of naked coffins lie
scattered upon the ground; and the sides of the hills that rise from the vale
are thickly set with groups of sarcophagi, in the shape of small houses,

arranged in such a manner as to look like so many Lilliputian villages.

XLII. Economy of time and labour, exemplified in a Chinese water-
man. In the river Chen-tang-chaung, near Han-choo-foo, very large boats
are frequently managed by one man, who with great dexterity will run
through a whole fleet of vessels, steering his own boat with one hand, ma-
naging the sail with the other, and pulling a large oar with his foot; and at

the same time smoking his pipe with the greatest ease and indifference.

XLII. The rock of Quang-yin, with an excavation near its base, serv-
ing as a temple and dwelling for several priests of Fo. This rock is com-

posed of one solid mass of grey marble, rising out of the margin of the
CONTAINED IN THE FOLIO VOLUME. XXIX

river to a height exceeding six hundred feet. In a large rent near the base
is a temple of two stories, ascended by flights of steps hewn out of the sides
of the cavern. The faces of the rock on the side next the river are so steep,

that this dreary mansion can only be approached by water.

XLIV. The Scoop-wheel of China, for lifting water upon the banks of
rivers for agricultural purposes. These wheels, which are very common
in the southern provinces, are made entirely of bamboo, are put together
without a nail, and are from fifteen to forty feet in diameter. They come
nearest to the Persian or bucket-wheel, but are materially different in the
principle and construction. A wheel thirty feet in diameter will lift, in the

course of twenty-four hours, near seventy thousand gallons of water.
A LIST OF THE ENGRAVINGS

CONTAINED IN THE TWO QUARTO VOLUMES.

 

eee
i

IN THE FIRST VOLUME.

I. Frontispiece. Chen-Lung, Ta-whang-tee, or Chen-Lung, the great
Emperor of China, habited in the dress in which he usually appears when
giving audience.

II. The Adansonia, or Baobab, sometimes called in English, the
monkey bread-fruit tree of St. Jago, whose trunk at the base measures
hfty-six feet in girth, Page 141.

III. View of the largest of the islands of Tristan d’Acunha, when

bearing north, and distant three or four miles. Page 199.

IV. A Cochin-chinese boat of ten pair of oars, belonging to the gover-
nor of the district of Turon. Page 341.

V. Curious insects found on a particular plant growing on the borders
of Turon bay, and supposed to be those from which the white wax of the
East is obtained. Page 355.

VI. The feet and ankles of a Chinese lady, dressed with the bandages
and shoes, such as are in general worn; and also the feet undressed, to
shew the manner of bending all the toes, except the great one, under the
sole of the foot. : Page 423.
A LIST OF THE ENGRAVINGS, &c. XXX1

VII. The Chinese mariner’s compass, with the divisions, characters,
and circles, generally marked upon such as are to be applied to nautical
purposes ; this engraving is the size of the instrument from which it was
taken. Page 143.

IN THE SECOND VOLUME.

VIII. Frontispiece. Portrait of his Excellency the Earl of Macartney,
Embassador Extraordinary from the King of Great Britain to the Emperor
of China.

IX. The Hai-vang, or Neptune of the Chinese, as he appears in Hai-
ching-miau, or temple of the sea god at Ta-coo. In one hand he holds a
magnet, as emblematic of security ; and a dolphin in the other, to shew his
sovereignty over the inhabitants of the sea; his head, beard, and hair, are

evidently intended as a personification of water. Page 11.

X. Two men throwing water out of a river into a reservoir on the bank,
by swinging a basket with a pair of ropes fixed to its opposite sides. The
bucket that is suspended at the end of a pole, which turns upon another
fixed upon the bank, is drawn by hand to be filled with water; it is then
more than counterpoised by the weight which is fixed to the other extre-
mity of the pole, and consequently drawn up without further trouble. Such
machines are frequent along the banks of the Pei-ho, and other rivers of
China, for raising water for the grounds. : Page 359.

XI. A female divinity in the temple of Tong-choo-foo, taken from a
figure of wood. ‘From the eye depicted on a brass plate, which is held in
her hands, it 1s probably intended as a personification of Providence. In
a bronze vessel standing near her are burning some matches made from the
dust of sandal wood, and mixed with other perfumes. Page 85.
XXX11 A LIST OF THE ENGRAVINGS

XII. A bronze vessel, five or six feet in height, standing on a hexagonal
pedestal of stone in the middle of one of the courts of the temple at Tong-
choo-foo. In tripods such as these, perfumed matches, pieces of tin foil,
gilt and painted paper, or any other kind of burnt-offerings, are placed by
those who visit the temple, for the purpose of consulting their destiny.

Page 351,

XIII. The method by which large and heavy packages are transported
from one place to another on men’s shoulders. The plan will explain the
manner of fixing the poles so that thirty-two men may apply themselves
(two at each extremity of the poles, that are parallel to the sides of the
package) with an equal division of the burden. Page 113.

XIV. The method of carrying sedan chairs belonging to persons of
rank. Page 73.

XV. The manner of crushing rice and other grain or pulse, by raising a
lever with the foot, at the opposite extremity of which is fixed a cone-shaped
stone, that falls into a semicircular bason of the same material. Page 597.

XVI. A statue of bronze, intended as a representation of a lion, one of
which is placed at each side of the great gateway of the first court leading
to the hall of audience at the palace of Yuen-min-yuen. Page 511.

~ XVII. The Throne of the Emperor of China in the hall of audience at
Yuen-min-yuen. This throne is of carved wood, somewhat darker than,
but much resembling, mahogany. The platform is covered with English
scarlet broadcloth, and the imperial chair with yellow silk. The charac-
ters on the parallelogram above it, are epithets in praise of the Emperor,
and that in the lozenge is that of foo, which signifies felicity, a character in
high estimation among the Chinese. This character, written by the hand
CONTAINED IN THE SECOND QUARTO VOLUME. XXXI11

of the Emperor, is sometimes purchased by the curious Chinese at a very
high price. ; Page 129.

XVIII. A carved sceptre of Jade stone, emblematical in China of peace
and felicity. One of the same figure, but of agate, was sent to his Majesty,
one was presented to the Embassador, and another to the Minister Pleni-
potentiary; the purse annexed to the sceptre was given by the Emperor to
the Embassador’s Page. Page 235.

XIX. An agate of extraordinary size, supported on a marble pedestal
in one of the Emperor’s palaces in the gardens at Zhe-hol. This agate 1s
four feet in length, is carved into a landscape, and bears a copy of verses
written by the present. Emperor. Page 243.

XX. iA mass of indurated earth and gravel, cemented together so as to
have the appearance of solid rock; it is pyramidal, and stands on its
smaller base on one of the hills near the town of Zhe-hol. Its height is
about two hundred feet. Page 205.

XXI. The Lui-shin, or spirit that presides over thunder, the Jupiter of
the Chinese. This figure has the wings, beak, and talons of an eagle. In
his right hand he holds a mallet, to strike the kettle-drums with which he is
surrounded, whose noise is intended to convey the idea of thunder, whilst his
left 1s filled with a volume of undulating lines, very much resembling those
in the hands of some of the Grecian Jupiters, and evidently meant to convey
the same idea, namely, that of the thunderbolt, or lightning. Page 305.

XXII. Two fishermen bearing their boat on their shoulders towards a
lake in which they mean to fish, with the species of corvorant, that the

Chinese have rendered docile and expert in that kind of employment.

Page 389.
XXXIV A LIST OF THE ENGRAVINGS, %c.

XXIII. The manner of drawing up a large net upon the deck of a fish-
ing boat. Many fishermen with their families have no other habitation

but boats such as these. Page 5174

XXIV. An exact portrait of a Ghinese bridge, and a barge with its masts

struck, or lowered down, to enable it to pass under the arch. Page 427.

XXYV. One of the methods used in China for working the chain-pump,
to raise water for agricultural purposes, out of one reservoir to another.

Page 451.

XXVI. Chinese plough, such as are most generally in use throughout
the country. It has but one handle, and no coulter, this last being deemed
unnecessary, as there is no ley-ground, and consequently no turf to cut
through in China. Page 363.

XXVII. The Camelia Sesanqua, called by the Chinese Tcha-wha, or
flower of tea, a plant which grows in great abundance, and without much
cultivation, on the hills of the southern provinces. From the nut, or
~ berry, of this plant, very much resembling, but larger than, the tea-seed,
the Chinese express a very fine esculent oil, which is in high estimation
with them. Opposite page 466.

XXVIII. The Cave of Camoéns at Macao, in which this poet is said to
have composed his famous poem of the Lusiad. The column that appears
to support the immense overhanging rock 1s modern, and perfectly unne-
cessary, the stone having for ages continued to hang without the aid of the

pillar. ; Page 591.

XXIX. A pillar supported on an animal, in a temple on the side of
the road between Pekin and Tong-choo-foo. Page 547.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

 

 

CHAPTER I.

OCCASION OF THE EMBASSY.

It has justly been observed, that the interests and
pursuits of so active and opulent a portion of the com-
munity as is engaged in trade throughout the British
dominions, occupy, at all times, much of the attention,
and, in the proper spirit of a commercial nation, influ-
ence many of the measures of the government. It was
naturally supposed, therefore, when the determination
was known of sending an embassy to China from Great
Britain, that it was undertaken for commercial purposes.
In fact, the intercourse between the two countries was
carried on in a manner that required some change. No
favourable incident had occurred, either when it was
first attempted by the English, or since it had been
established, that could tend to place it on a more advan-
tageous footing for them. The natives of other European
countries, who undertook to trade in China, were, in
this respect, more fortunate.

The Portugueze were the first Who frequented the

Chinese coasts upwards of two centuries ago, and about
VOL. Is B

Occasion of

the Embassy.

A——————
FEE ETERS.
2

Occasion of
the Embassy.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the period of their most brilliant exploits, as well as of
the fame which necessarily followed them. They had
rendered such signal services to the empire of China,
that, in return, lands for building a town, near to a safe
harbour at the southern extremity of the country, with
several collateral advantages, were granted to them ; and,
notwithstanding the decline of their power and repu-
tation has gradually led to an encroachment upon their
privileges, the recollection of a long and useful connec-
tion contributes to procure them still, on the part of the
Chinese, a more familiar and confidential reception, and,
indeed, a marked preference, in particular instances, be-
fore other Europeans.

The Dutch, in consequence of assistance supplied by
them for the reduction of a formidable rebel, named Co-
shing-ga, whose fleets infested the eastern coasts of China
towards the middle of the last century, were, for a time
caressed by the established government; and invited
even to Pekin, where the first emperor of the Man-choo
Tartar race was then sitting on the throne. His suc-
cessor, the great Cam-hi, or, as more accurately pro-
nounced, Caung-shee, during a long and prosperous
reign, received, very favourably, any foreigners skilled
in such arts and sciences as were better understood in
Europe than by his own subjects. He admitted many
of those foreigners into his service and confidence; and
employed some of them in political negotiations. They
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

5

all happened to belong to different religious societies of occasion of

the Roman Catholic persuasion, founded in different
parts of the continent of Europe; and were men, who
being inspired with zeal for the propagation of the
principles of their faith among distant nations, had
been sent abroad for that purpose by their respective
superiors. Several of those who arrived in Ghina, ac-
quired considerable esteem and influence, as well by
their talents and knowledge, as by uncommon strictness
of morals, disinterestedness, and humility: qualities and
a conduct that leave little room for clashing, at least in
temporal pursuits, with the views of other men ; and
command the veneration even of those who are not dis-
posed to imitate the example. By means like these,
they not only gained proselytes to their religion, but
gave a favourable impression of the countries from
whence they came: thus, and by personal solicitations,
serving the cause of such of their countrymen as were
engaged in commerce in any Chinese port.

The English, alone, had no opportunity of rendering
themselves acceptable by public services; nor had they
any effectual means of securing respect for their charac-
ter, or protection for their trade. Mercantile speculations,
to other distant countries, from England, had indeed been
encouraged, and assisted by the special countenance and
recommendation of the sovereign upon the throne.

¢¢ Queen Elizabeth,” according to the history of com-

the Embassy.

eerste
EATER.
4

Occasion of
the Embassy.

 

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

merce, ‘‘ in the last year of the sixteenth century, sent
““ out John Mildenhall over land from Constantinople
““ to the court of the Great Mogul for obtaining certain
‘¢ privileges for the English, for whom she was then
‘“ preparing a charter. He was long opposed by the arts
‘ and presents of the Spanish and Portugueze Jesuits at
‘“ that court; and it was some years before he could en-
‘“ tirely get the better of them.” It is recorded, that the
same wise princess wrote strong recommendatory letters
to the emperor of China, to be delivered by the chiefs
of an expedition intended for that country in her time ;
but misfortunes at sea prevented the ships from ever ar-
riving there. Nor does it appear that any regular trade
was afterwards attempted with that empire, to which the
Portugueze seem to have long arrogated the exclusive pri-
vilege of resorting, until the year 1634, when a ‘* truce
‘“ and free trade” to China, and all other places where the
Portugueze were settled in India, was agreed to between
the viceroy of Goa and several English merchants, to
whom a license for trading to the East Indies had been
granted by King Charles the First, notwithstanding the
exclusive charter of Queen Elizabeth to others.

Several ships were fitted out by these grantees, under
the command of Captain Weddell, who thought it suffi-
cient, in consequence of the agreement made at Goa, to
bring letters for the governor of Macao, in order to be ef-
fectually assisted in his projected intercourse with the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

5

Chinese at Canton. According to the manuscriptaccount, occasion of
however, of that voyage, which seemsto havebeen drawn
up without disguise, ¢* the procurador of Maccow soon

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repaired aboard the principal ship of the English,
and said, that for matter of refreshing, he would pro-
vide them; but that there was a main obstacle to their

trading, which was the non-consent of the Chineses,

who, he pretended, held his (the Portugueze) people
in miserable subjection. The English determined,
however, to discover the river of Canton; and fitted
out a barge and pinnace with above fifty men, which,
after two days, came in sight of the mouth of the
river, being a very goodly inlet, and utterly prohi-
bited to ghe Portugals (Portugueze) by the Chineses,
who do not willingly admit any strangers to the view
of it, being the passage and secure harbour for their
best jounckes, both of war and merchandize ; so that
the Portugal traffic to Canton was only in small vessels,
through divers narrow shoaled straits, amongst many
broken islands adjoining to the main. The barge an-
choring fora wind and tide to carry them in, a jouncke
of those that accustom to fish was descried early in the
morning, whom Thomas Robinson followed (a te-
dious chase by reason of their many oars), hoping to
have found some aboard that might have stood either
of a pilot or interpreter ; but finding neither, having
used them with all courtesy, dismissed them, contrary

the Embassy.

 
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to their timorous expectation ; and afterwards, for the
same causes, and with the same success, spake with
another ; but after a delay of several days a small boat
made towards the pinnace ; and having sold some re-
freshing, signs were made to carry some of the English
to Canton, and bring them to the speech of the man-
darines; which the boatmen accepted of; but the next
day, the pinnace being under sail with a fair wind
and tide, after having passed by a certain desolate
castle, a fleet of about twenty sail of tall jounckes, com-
manded by the admiral of the sea’s deputies, passing
down from Canton, encountered the English ; and,
in courteous terms, desired them to anchor, which ac-
cordingly they did ; and presently John Mounteney,
and Thomas Robinson, went aboard the chief man-
darine, where were certain Negroes, fugitives of the
Portugalls, that interpreted.

‘« At first the Ghinese began somewhat roughly to ex-
postulate what moved them to come thither, and dis-
cover the prohibited goods, and concealed parts and
passages of so great a prince’s dominions? also, who
were their pilots? Thomas Robinson replied, that they
were come from Europe, to treat of such capitulation,
as might conduce to the good of both princes and sub-
jects, hoping that it might be lawful for them, as well
as for the inhabitants of Maccow, to exercise a free
commerce, paying duties as the others; and as for
EMBASSY TO CHINA. 7

«¢ pilots, they had none; but every one was able, by his occasion of
“« art, to discover more difficult passages than they had ===
« found. The Chinese hereafter began to be more affable,
‘ and, in conclusion, appointed a small jouncke to carry
“« up Captain (Carter, John Mounteney, and Thomas Ro-
«“ binson, or whom else they pleased to the town (of
¢« Canton), if the English would promise that the pin-
«« nace should proceed no further; for though each of
«« these vessels was well furnished with ordnance and
«« treble manned, yet durst they not all to oppose her in
‘ any hostile way. The same night Captain Carter,
« Thomas Robinson, and John Mounteney, left the pin-
‘“ nace, with order to expect their return; and, being
«« embarked in a small jouncke of thirty tons, proceeded
«« towards Canton, with intent to deliver a petition to
‘« the viceroy, for obtaining of license to settle a trade in
«« those parts. The next day they arrived within five
“ leagues of Canton, whither it seems the rumour of their
“¢ coming, and fear of them, was already arrived; so that
““ they were required in a friendly manner to proceed
““ no further, but to repair aboard their own ships, with
“ promise of assistance in the procuring of license for
« trade, if they would seek it at Maccow by the solici-
“¢ tation of some they should find there; and would in-
«« stantly abandon the river: the which (having satisfied
‘“ themselves with this discovery, and willing to remove
the anxiety which their long absence might breed

 

€

«-
8 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

occasion of “¢ In the rest of the fleet) they readily performed. In a
el. « little time the Portugalls’ fleet of six small vessels set
““ sail for Japan; upon whose departure it was expected
s« that license of trade would have been permitted, ac-
““ cording as they still had borne in hand the English ;
‘“ but being then freed of their conceived fear lest Cap-
““ tain Weddell and his men should have surprised their
““ vessels, they instantly flouted the simple credulity (the
¢¢ inseparable badge of folly) of the nation ; and, at last,
‘“ having assembled a council of purpose, sent the Eng-
‘“ lish a flat denial. The same day at a consultation
‘“ called aboard the admiral (Weddell) to that purpose,
‘“ Captain Carter, John Mounteney, and Thomas Robin-
‘“ son, delivered to the whole council, together with a
‘“ draught of the river, the sum of their attempts, success,
‘“ and hopes ; which being well pondered, it was gene-
‘“ rally consented, that the whole fleet should sail for the
‘“ river of Ganton. They arrived, in a few days, before
‘“ the forementioned desolate castle ; and being now fur-
‘“ nished with some slender interpreters, they soon had
‘“ speech with divers mandarines in the king’s jounckes,
‘“ to whom the cause of their arrival was declared, viz.
‘“ to entertain peace and amity with them, to traffic freely
‘“ as the Portugalls did, and to be forthwith supplied for
‘“ their monies, with provisions for their ships: all which
‘“ those mandarines promised to solicit with the prime
‘“ men resident at Canton ; and in the mean time desire an

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

expectation of six days, which were granted ; and the

English ships rode with white ensigns on the poop:

¢ but their perfidious friends, the Portugalls, had in all

that time, since the return of the pinnace, so beslan-
dered them to the Chinese, reporting them to be rogues,
thieves, beggars, and what not, that they became very

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that, in the night time, they put forty-six of iron cast
ordnance into the fort lying close to the brink of the
river; each piece between six and seven hundred
weight, and well proportioned ; and after the end of
four days, having, as they thought, sufficiently forti-
fied themselves, they discharged divers shot, though
without hurt, upon one of the barges, passing by them,

to find out a convenient watering place. Herewith the
¢ whole fleet, being instantly incensed, did, on the sud-

den, display their bloody ensigns ; and, weighing their
anchors, fell up with the flood, and birthed themselves
before the castle, from whence came many shot; yet

‘ not any that touched so much as hull or rope ; where-
‘ upon, not being able to endure their bravadoes any

longer, each ship began to play furiously upon them

« with their broadsides; and, after two or three hours,

perceiving their cowardly fainting, the boats were
landed with about one hundred men; which sight
occasioned them, with great distractions, instantly to

¢ abandon the castle and fly; the boats’ crews in the mean

YOL. I. C

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the Embassy.

 
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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

time, without let, entering the same, and displaying
his Majesty's colours of Great Britain upon the walls,
having, the same night, put aboard all their ordnance,
fired the council-house, and demolished what they
could. The boats of the fleet, also, seized a jouncke
laden with boards and timber, and another with salt.
Another vessel, of small moment, was surprised, by
whose boat a letter was sent to the chief mandarines at
Canton, expostulating their breach of truce, excusing
the assailing of the castle, and withal, in fair terms,
requiring the liberty of trade. This letter, it seems,

was delivered ; for the next day, a mandarine of no

great note, some time a Portugal Christian, called Paulo
Noretty, came towards the ships in a small boat with
a white flag, to whom the English, having laid open
the injuries received, and the sincere intent they had
to establish fair trade and commerce, and were no way
willing (but in their own defence) to oppose the China
nation, presented certain gifts, and dismissed him to

his masters, who were some of the chief mandarines,

riding about a point of land not far from the ships; who
being, by him, duly informed thereof, returned him

again, the same night, with a small jouncke, and full

authority to carry up such, as should be appointed, to
Canton, there to tender a petition, and to conclude

‘“ further upon the manner of their future proceedings.

‘‘ John Mounteney and Thomas Robinson passed up the
ef

ێ

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

river, and, the next evening, arrived at the city, an-
choring close under the walls, in sight of the palace of

*“ Champin, the admiral-general, and, on the morrow,

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having procured a petition to be formally drawn up, by
the means of the said Noretty, they were called ashore,
and, passing through a treble guard, and, at length,
coming in sight of the chiefs assembled; they were
willed, according to the custom of the country, to
kneel ; and Thomas Robinson, holding the petition at
large extended upon his head, delivered it to Noretty
to carry up to Ghampin; the contents whereof be so
reasonable, as before specified, he presently consented
unto, and promised his utmost assistance; blaming
the treachery of the Portugalls, whom he taxed as au-
thors, by their slanders, of all the precedent incon-
veniencies: they returned from Canton fully satisfied,
and hereupon the Chinese guns were landed and de-
livered into their hands; their jounckes freely dis-
missed, and a seeming peace on all sides ensued.”

The whole of this relation marks the moderation of

the Chinese towards strangers, or, perhaps, the weak and
unsteady administration of a declining dynasty; but
shews, at the same time, under what adverse auspices
the English were first introduced in China: these rash
adventurers appearing as if not belonging to any nation,
or avowed by any power, and misrepresented by those
on whom they had placed dependance; nor had they

11

Occasion of
the Embassy.

 
12

Occasion of
the Embassy.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

been preceded by any English traveller, actuated by mo-
tives of piety or curiosity, who might announce, at least;
the name of his country to some advantage. It conti-
nued to be so little known, even after the English had
begun to traffic at Canton, that they were long distin-
guished, only, by the contem ptuous appellation of Hoong-
mow-zlin, which, as nearly as can be translated, may
answer to that of carolty-pated race.

When the vast increase of the shipping of the English
at Canton, and the eclat of their victories in Hindostan,
as well as their conquest of the Philippine Islands in
the Chinese seas, had attracted the attention of the court
of Pekin, the answers, to inquiries concerning them,
from the missionaries, being the only Europeans to be
consulted there, probably partook of the national and
religious prejudices imbibed, until of late, by persons
of that description, against the English. It must have

required a long course of very reserved and cautious

conduct on their part, to efface any unfavourable im-
pressions given of them by other natives of Europe.
But with such a conduct it was sometimes difficult to
reconcile the independent. spirit and freedom of action,
resulting from the nature of the British government;
and which might, however justifiable, have sometimes
worn the appearance of presumption in the eyes of the
supercilious and arbitrary magistrates of China, espe-
cially when observable in persons of a mercantile pro-
EMBASSY TO CHINA. 13

fession, which happens to be the lowest class in esti- occasion of
mation there. Its more frequent, and worse consequences nL
proceeded from the abuse of liberty in the vulgar and
uninstructed minds of British seamen, and other persons

in inferior stations. Their passions and caprices, being

in great measure unrestrained, they exhibited such scenes

of excesses and irregularities as were peculiarly disgust-

ing and offensive to a people, whose minutest actions

are controlled by specific regulations.

From these causes, of all foreigners frequenting the
port of Canton, the English were certainly depicted in
the most unfavourable colours to the government of the
country; and probably treated with the greatest rigour
upon the spot. And thus the Imperial officers, under
whose immediate inspection they were placed, were in
little danger of reprehension for any ill treatment of
their persons, or impositions upon their trade. Their
complaints were considered as frivolous or ill-found-
ed; and attributed to a restless and unreasonable dis-
position. Effectual measures were, likewise, taken to
avoid a repetition of their remonstrances, by punishing
such of the natives as were suspected of having assisted
in translating the papers which contained them, into the
language of the country. The few English, who were
in any degree acquainted with that language, being ne-
cessarily brought forward for the purpose of communi-
cating their grievances, became particularly obnoxious;
14

- Occasion of
the Embassy.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

and this circumstance contributed to deter others from
any attempt to acquire it; and, indeed, to teach it: to

them was found to be a service of some danger. They

were, thus, under the necessity of trusting entirely to the

native merchants themselves, with whom they had to

deal ; and who found their account in acquiring, at least,
as many English words as were necessary for carrying
on their mercantile concerns. Besides, the vast :supe-
riority of rank, over all merchants, assumed by per-
sons in authority in China, became an obstacle to all
social or familiar intercourse between them, and the
only Englishmen who went there. And, notwithstand-
ing a British factory had been established upwards of
an hundred years, not the least approach was made to-
wards that assimilation of manners, dress, sentiments, or
habits, which, in similar institutions elsewhere, tends
so much to facilitate the views of commerce, as well
as to promote the comforts of those immediately en-
gaged In it.

Under such: circumstances, the ancient prejudices
against all strangers, always great in proportion as there
is little communication with them, could scarcely fail to
continue in their full force: those prejudices, not only
operating upon the conduct of the Chinese, but reduced
into a system, supported on the fullest confidence in
the perfect state of their own civilization ; and the com-
parative barbarism of every other nation, suggested the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

precaution of making regulations to restrain the con-
duct of all Europeans frequenting their coasts; as if
aware of the necessity of preventing the contamination
of bad example among their own people. One port
only was left open for foreign ships; and, when the
season came for their departure, every European was
compelled to embark with them, or leave, at least, the
Chinese territories: thus abandoning his factory and
unfinished concerns, until the return of the ships in
the following year. There was little scruple in laying
those restrictions on foreign. trade, the government of
China not being impressed with any idea of its import-
ance to a country including so many climates, and sup-
plying within itself, all the necessaries, if not all the
luxuries, of life. |

Tho the natives, immediately engaged with foreigners
in mercantile transactions, have been very considerable
gainers by such an intercourse, the body of the people
is taught to attribute the admission of it, entirely, to mo-
tives of humanity and benevolence towards other nations
standing in need of the produce of China, agreeably to
precepts inculcated by the great moralists of the empire;
and not to any occasion or desire of deriving reciprocal
advantage from it. |
«For a considerable period, indeed, there was little
demand for European goods at the Chinese markets;
and the consequent necessity of paying for the surplus

15

Occasion of
the Embassy.
———
nk,

16

Occasion of
the Embassy.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

value of their commodities in money, an object so de-
sirable for nations which may often have occasion to re-
mit cash elsewhere, was thought, in China, where such
a want seldom could occur, to be productive of little
other alteration than to increase the relative weight of
the metal representing property ; and which increase
was in that respect considered rather an inconvenience
than a benefit. |
With such an opinion of foreign trade, those, who
presided over it, being indifferent to its progress, and
suffering it, rather than seeking for it, there was a very
slender chance of favourable attention, or even common
justice, towards the strangers who carried it on ; espe-
cially the English at Canton, who had not the faculty
of asserting their own cause upon the spot; and were
entirely without support at the capital, where their
grievances might be redressed. They were, in fact,
subjected to many oppressions in their dealings, and
insults upon their persons. They did not, however,
conceive that such treatment was authorized by the
Emperor of China, or even known to him; and there-
fore several of the East India Company's agents, em-
ployed in the Chinese trade, suggested the propriety of
an embassy to his Imperial Majesty, to represent their
situation, in the hope that he might issue orders for
the removal of the hardships under which they Ila-
boured. Intelligent men, who had resided at Pekin,
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

17

and being, as mathematicians or artists, in the service of occasion of

the court, had occasionally an opportunity of observing
the disposition of those who composed it, were of opi-
nion that such a measure, properly supported, could
not fail of having a good effect. The English, hither-
to, were scarcely known there, except through the pre-
judiced medium of their adversaries or rivals. Those
who resided at Canton were merely considered as indi-
viduals, who, not having been recommended, or ex-
pressly avowed by their own sovereign, might not be
thought entitled to any particular protection. It was
urged, that a British Ambassador would be a new spec-
tacle ; and his mission a compliment that would pro-

bably be well received. Upon general reasoning, it

appeared, that every motive of policy or commerce,
which led to the maintenance of ministers from Great
Britain, at European courts, and even in Turkey, ap-
plied, with equal strength, to a similar establishment,
if practicable, at Pekin. The trade between the subjects
of the two countries amounted, annually, to some mil-
lions sterling ; and, tho the kingdom of Great Britain
be distant several thousand miles from the capital of
the Chinese empire, the dependent territories of each
state approached each other within about two hundred
miles, on the side of Hindostan. Much of the inter-
mediate space between the eastern boundary of the

British government of Bengal, and the western limits
VOL. I. D

the Embassy.

 
18

Occasion of
the Embassy.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

of the Chinese province of Shen-see, was occupied by
petty princes, frequently at variance with each other;
but intimately connected with, or dependent upon,
one or other of their two powerful neighbours. Such
a relative situation must, in the common progress of
events, give rise, as has already been experienced, to
discussions, which might, without the interposition of
persons in a public and confidential character, lay the
foundation of dangerous differences between the two
courts.

A similar evil appears not less to be apprehended, in
the course of an extensive commercial intercourse, in
the other extremity of China. An accident, indeed,
happened at Canton, not many years ago, which 1s said
to have very much endangered the continuance of its
foreign trade. On some occasion of compliment, or re-

joicing, the guns were fired from one of those vessels

which navigate between the British settlements in India
and Canton, but not in the employment, or under the
regulations or discipline, of the English East India
Company. Through want, no doubt, of sufficient pre-
caution on the part of those who directed the firing,
two Chinese were killed in a boat, lying near the ves-
sel, in the river of Canton. The crime of murder
is, certainly, less frequent, and excites sensations of

deeper horror in China, where it is never pardoned,

than in many parts of Europe. The viceroy of the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

province, feeling the utmost indignation at the sup-
posed atrocity, or wantonness, of an act, by which an
European deprived two Chinese of life, instantly de-
manded the person of the gunner who committed the
fact, or of him who ordered it. The latter, already, had
absconded ; and the former, merely acting in obedience
to his superior, was consequently considered as guilt-
less by the English factory, who endeavoured to protect
him. Remonstrances were made, stating the unfortu-
nate event to have been entirely accidental. Never-
theless the viceroy, prepossessed by an ill opinion of
the English, as prone to every kind of wickedness,
would not be satisfied without a victim to expiate the
mischief that had happened, and insisted upon the
man’s being delivered up to him; and, to secure that
object, seized upon the person of one of the principal
supercargoes. This extraordinary step alarmed the other
factories, and united them with the English, as in a
common cause. The European ships, then lying in
the Canton river, were in considerable number and
force. Their commanders and the individuals of the
factories seemed to collect together, and to dispose them-
selves for resistance to the intentions of the viceroy,
who immediately ordered vast numbers of his troops
to line the banks of the river, and prepared to obtain
his purpose by compulsion. ‘He was, perhaps, the less
cautious or backward ‘in taking ‘this strong measure,

19

Occasion of

the Embassy.

 
20

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Ocaasionof a8 1ts justification would depend upon his own state-

the Embassy.

=—=—== ment of the facts to the Emperor, who might thus easily

be brought to feel resentment, and approve of vengeance
against the English: they having, at the Imperial court,
no means of disputing the representation of the viceroy,
or of averting the execution of his designs. Extre-
mities were avoided only by the delivery of the un-
happy gunner, with some vain hope that he should not
be made to suffer.

If any conflict had taken place, the loss of those who
might fall on both sides, upon the occasion, would not,
perhaps, be the only ill consequence resulting from it.
Very serious apprehensions were entertained, lest the
Chinese government, which easily takes alarm, and
foresees the possibility of the remotest evils, should be
disposed to prevent effectually the return of such a
scene; and avoid the chance of exposing the lives, or
disturbing the tranquillity, of its subjects, by putting a
total stop to foreign trade.

It is not merely the privation of the profit dat would
be sustained by the East India Company, or of the duties
payable to the state, that would be felt by the cessation
of the trade to China; nor even the stagnation, in this
respect, in the sale of British manufactures in that
country ; where the East India Company, by sacrifices
which individuals could not make, have succeeded in
carrying it to an unexpected extent. Notwithstand-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

~ ingthe violence of the shock, which such a stoppage
would create, other openings might gradually be struck
out for commerce; which will generally be found to
make its way, and flourish, at length, under the auspices
of a good government, nearly in proportion to the ca-
pital, industry, and ingenuity of the people inclined to
carry it on.

But, independently of every consideration of gain, it
happens, in fact, that one of the chief articles of im-
port from China, and not to be had elsewhere, was be-
come a necessary of life in most of the ranks of society
in England. Until teas, of similar qualities with the
Chinese, could be procured from other countries, in
equal quantities, and at as reasonable a price as they
were then imported from China, no precaution was to
be neglected, which could secure the usual supply of
that article from thence, while the desire of its daily use
continued undiminished in Great Britain.

Tea, it is true, was not known in any part of Europe
before the commencement of the last century. Some
Dutch adventurers seeking, about that time, for such
objects as might fetch a price in China, and, hearing
of the general usage, there, of a beverage from a plant
of the country, bethought themselves of trying how far
an European plant, of supposed great virtues, might
also be relished by the Chinese, and thereby become
a saleable commodity amongst them; and, accordingly,

2F

Occasion of
the Embassy.
—
22

Occasion of
the Embassy.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

introduced to them the herb sage, so much once ex-
tolled by the Salernian school of physic, as a powerful
preservative of health: the Dutch accepting, in return,
the Chinese tea, which they brought to Europe. The
European herb did not continue, long at least, in use in
China; but the consumption of tea has been gradually
increasing in Europe ever since. In England, about
the middle of the last age, the infusions of it were
already sold in houses of public entertainment ; and be-
came an object of taxation to the legislature. The annual
public sales of teas, by the East India Company, did
not, however, in the beginning of the present cen-
tury, much exceed fifty thousand pounds weight, in-
dependently of what little might be then, perhaps,
clandestinely imported. The Company's annual sales,
now, approach to twenty millions of pounds; being
an increase of four hundred fold, in less than one
hundred years, and answers to the rate of more than
a pound weight each, in the course of the year,
for the individuals of all ranks, sexes, and ages,
throughout the British dominions, in Europe and
America. |

No substitute, that could be offered, would prevent
the sudden deprivation of an article, in such universal
consumption and request, from being considered as a
calamity. Steps have, indeed, been taken for the pur-
pose of introducing its cultivation in those parts of the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

British territories in Hindostan, of which the soil and
climate are supposed most congenial to its growth;
and in the island of Corsica, a small plantation of it is
said, actually, to be flourishing ; but at an expence, in
the preparation of it, exceeding the value of the pro-
duce. The probability is, however, strong, that the
supply of this article, at a reasonable price, may, at a
future time, be secured without depending upon the
will of a foreign power. But prudence required to
guard against its failure in the mean time, by endea-
vouring to form such a connection with the court of
Pekin, as might, in its consequences, tend to place the
British trade to China upon a less precarious, and more
advantageous footing, than hitherto it had stood; as
well, also, as to prevent the difficulties, and allay the
jealousies, which the intrigues and misrepresentations
of the respective dependents or allies of China and Great
Britain, might be likely to occasion on the side of Hin-
dostan.

It was not to be expected that such a connection
could, on a sudden, be brought about; or its objects be
at once completed. The court of Pekin was understood
to be guided by maxims peculiar to itself: little fond of
a promiscuous intercourse with foreign states, and in-
clined, in some measure, to consider its subjects as placed
in the vale of happiness, where it was wise to seclude
them from a profane admixture with other men. The

23

Occasion of
the Embassy.

 
24 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Occassion of €Xception to such a rule was not likely to be made, at

the Embassy. :

=== once, in favour of a nation, of whose wealth, enter-
prize, and power, the Emperor and mandarines were
sufficiently persuaded; but of whose virtues they had
little heard.

A succession of British subjects, residing in a digni-
fied station at Pekin, whose cautious conduct and cour-
teous manners would be calculated to gain the esteem
of the upper, and the respect of the lower classes of the
Chinese, might, by dissipating their prejudices, and
conciliating their good will, produce the confidence
necessary to a desirable alliance with them. The ad-
mittance of such, however, in the first instance, might
be a matter of some difficulty and hazard. A British
subject in the service of the East India Company, who
had attained the language of the country, by having
been sent to Canton at a very early age, and had re-
mained long in it, was punished, by express order from
Pekin, for having attempted to penetrate to that capital,
with a view of presenting, in obedience to his supe-
riors, a memorial of grievances from the British fac-
tory.

It was presumed, that better success might attend

an envoy of rank, invested with a royal commission,
which commands respect in every civilized society ;
and a person of noble birth, and distinguished merit,
- undertook to make the experiment. He was accompa-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

nied by gentlemen of ability and knowledge; but the
expedition was interrupted by his premature decease
in the course of the voyage out. This event retarded,
but did not prevent, the prosecution of the measure
originally intended. Fresh circumstances occurred to
press its execution. A more comprehensive view, also,
was taken of the subject; and considerations of hu-
manity and philosophy were superadded to those of
policy and commerce. Among the transactions which
give lustre to the present reign, some of the most me-
morable were the voyages undertaken under the imme-
diate auspices of the Sovereign, whereby the boundaries
of science were enlarged, and the globe was circum-
navigated, without the incentives of gain or conquest.
But advantages were obtained more durable, and more

worthy of elevated minds. One man, chosen by Go-

vernment, as fitted for arduous undertakings, by intre-
pidity and judgment, as well as by the extent of his
acquirements, was enabled to make considerable im-
provements in navigation and geography; and, after
successive trials, to determine points of much previous
doubt and curiosity, as well as of general importance;
while another, stored with the knowledge of whatever
former naturalists had observed, and making, for the
sake of further researches, a voluntary sacrifice of the
enjoyments of fortune, at an early age, to encounter the

extremities of opposite climates, and the perils of un-
voi. 1. E

25

Occasion of
the Embassy.

———
26 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Deine, known routes, succeeded in enriching the history of
———— nature In its several departments. Enterprizes such as
these were so much above the usual course of things,
and the motives of ordinary actions, that, in the midst
of war, they were held sacred by an admiring enemy;
and, without solicitation, were excepted from the danger
of the hostile attacks, to which every other English
property and person were exposed.

As individuals growing into affluence, derive just
praise from generous exertions in behalf of the com-
munity ; so kings and nations, in prosperity, cannot,
with greater glory, avail themselves of their situation,
than by directing a part of their attention towards en-
lightening mankind; and promoting the general hap-
piness of the human race. Nor is such a conduct bar-
ren of direct advantage to those who hold it. No state
can flatter itself with abounding so much in the riches
of nature, or of being already arrived to such perfection
in the arts of applying them to the purposes of life, as
not to be susceptible of any further augmentation or im-
provement. If countries, little advanced in civilization,
are capable of sometimes supplying valuable informa-
tion, it is probable that much more might be collected,
from the recorded or traditional experience of the most
ancient society, and the most populous empire existing
amongst men.

The few, who had hitherto found means to penetrate

 
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

into China, had contributed rather to raise the attention
of other persons than to satisfy their inquiries. Of the ===
accounts given of it, some were contradictory, and some
suspicious; but all concur in ascertaining that, in re-
spect to its natural and artificial productions, the policy
and uniformity of its government, the language, man-
ners, and opinions of the people, their moral maxims,
and civil institutions, and the general economy and
tranquillity of the state, it is the grandest collective ob-
ject that can be presented for human contemplation or
research. The obstacles to a familiar investigation of it
arose, no doubt, on the part of the Chinese govern-
ment, from the fancied danger of communicating with
strangers prone to disturbance or immorality. This opi-
nion ould be corrected only by such strangers ai
examples of a contrary tendency.

But it might not be safe to trust to the effect of ex-
amples of ordinary rectitude, without the concomitant
~ qualifications for moving in a scene so novel, and
amidst prejudices so inveterate. An Embassador once
admitted, the success of the general plan would, cer-
tainly, much depend on the impression he and his at-
tendants would make, during his journey through the
country; and his visit to the court. If he should have
the method of rendering himself acceptable to the people;
if he could gain the good opinion of the mandarines;
thus operating, in fact, a favourable change in the ideas

217

Occasion of
the Phony:

 
28

Occasion of

the Embassy.

 

EMBASSY TO GHINA.

that had been entertained of the nation which had sent
him; and, lastly, could excite a wish for the regular re-
sidence of succeeding ministers contrary to the former
usages of the Chinese, the immediate object of this first
attempt would be accomplished, and a firm foundation
laid for the attainment of every good which might re-
sult from an intimate intercourse with all parts of China.

This, however, could only be the work of time, and

might be retarded by aiming at too much in the begin-
ning. Some of the most judicious Directors of the East
India Company, tho perfectly aware of all the hardships
under which its commerce laboured at Canton, but feel-
ing how much more the Company would suffer by its
absolute discontinuance, recommended the utmost pre-
caution to be used in the early periods of negotiation ;
lest, by eagerly contending for the redress of grievances,
or prematurely insisting upon further privileges, the
government of China should take alarm or offence ; and
think it time, effectually, to prevent the danger of en-
croachment, or dispute, by shutting its ports entirely
against foreigners.

It behoved the British administration, therefore, to
select a person of tried prudence, as well as of long
experience in distant courts and countries, to enter
upon a business of such delicacy and difficulty; and
who would be contented with securing future success,
without enjoying the splendour of instant advantages.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

It was an office, of which it could not be suspected that
it would be conferred through personal favour, or par-
liamentary influence. The Minister, indeed, had already
in several instances of great and responsible employ-
ments connected with the East India Company, shewn
the example of recommending, from the sole considera-
tion of the qualifications requisite to fill them; and ap-
pointments the most valuable and important were made
where they were neither solicited nor expected. A pro-
per person was thus, in like manner, to be sought for on
the present occasion; but some time elapsed before the
choice was ultimately fixed.

29

Occasion of
the Embassy.
350 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

CHAPTER II.

PREPARATIONS FOR THE EMBASSY.

-

Preparations However flattering patronage may be considered
Embassy.  t5 a minister, it becomes, on occasions of importance,
a duty nice and difficult to perform. He is not more
answerable for the measures he adopts, than for the
choice of those to whom he confides their execution.
As to the former, he may have credit given to him for
the exercise of his judgment without any particular pre-
dilection ; but, in suiting persons to employments, it be-
hoves him, in order to escape censure, to be equally on
his guard against his own partialities, and the solicitations
of his most intimate connections; and he finds himself
perfectly secure, only, when his private opinion coin-
cides with the general voice.
Such was the case in the appointment of an Embas-
sador to China. Lord Macartney was in the number of
those whose reputation was established for talent, inte-
grity, and an aptitude for business. Few men had been
tried in a greater variety of situations; and he was, per-
haps, the only man whose conduct (on his return from
a high station in India) the opposite parties in the legis-
lature, united in applauding; and his friends enjoyed
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

31

the satisfaction of hearing his eulogy pronounced, on the Preparations

same day, from the mouths of the two great opposing
leaders in the House of Commons. While he was for-
merly his Majesty's Envoy at Petersburg, he concluded,
with that court, a commercial treaty to subsist for twenty
years, on such advantageous conditions, that the sove-
reign of Russia, at length, perceiving the balance to be
too much in favour of Great Britain, refused, for a con-
siderable time, to renew it. His Lordship had other oc-
casions, afterwards, to exert both address and prudence,
for the public advantage, in different quarters of the
globe. He had since, indeed, declined the government-
general of Bengal, of which the power and the profit
exceed, no doubt, that of any other within the recom-
mendation, or the gift, of Ministry. But a visit to the
court of Pekin was, on other accounts, so uncommonly
inviting; it presented so much to an ardent and inqui-
sitive mind, that, upon the first intimation, he readily
engaged in the attempt.

His Lordship made no stipulation with Government,
on accepting this employment; but Mr. Durtdas, Secre-
tary of State, who planned and undertook the whole of
this measure, and to whom, whatever advantage may

ultimately result from its adoption, must, certainly, be -

attributed, very readily offered to allow a friend of Lord
Macartney (who, in negotiating the peace with Tippoo
Sultaun in 1784, had some opportunity of acquiring

or the
Embassy.
A
32

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Preparations €X perience) to accompany his Lordship as his Majesty's

or the

Embassy. Secretary of the Embassy, and eventual successor to the

 

Embassador. His Lordship’s recommendations were ac-
cepted in every other department of the Embassy.

By what route the expedition should proceed to China,
could not long admit of doubt. Tho Pekin lies on the
same side of the Equator as London, with a difference
of only eleven degrees of latitude ; and tho a direct line
from one capital to the other, passes over very little sea,
and through countries which nature has rendered plea-

~ sant, and where the atmosphere is mild and healthy;

yet the state of human civilization, through this long
tract of 5790 English miles, is, in many parts, too im-
perfect to admit of travelling with ease, safety, or dis-
patch. The passage by sea, therefore, was alone found
practicable, notwithstanding it is so circuitous, as to be
more than thrice the actual distance between China and
Great Britain.

On this occasion the First Lord of the Admiralty,
thinking one of his Majesty's ships could not be better
employed in time of peace, determined that a sixty-four
gun ship should carry the Embassador out and home;
and was pleased, also, to leave it to Lord Macartney to
nominate the commander. This nomination was far
from being a matter of indifference; for, beside the pro-
per qualifications to conduct any very long voyage,
with safety and comfort to the passengers and crew, still
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

33

more might, possibly, be requisite in an undertaking Preparations

in which a new tract of sea was to be explored; as it
became a part of the plan to sail directly for the harbour
next to the capital of China, through the Yellow sea
and the gulf of Pekin, for a space of ten degrees of
latitude, and more than half that quantity in longitude ;
. of no part of which there was any recorded account,
by European navigators. As this sea is, except at its
entrance, bounded by the eastern and northern coasts of
China, and by those of Tartary and Corea, dependent
on that empire, no fairer occasion could offer for pene-
trating into it, and adding so much to marine know-
ledge, without creating suspicion, or giving offence, to
the court of Pekin; since the avowed and justifiable
object of the mission led directly through it. Besides,
nothing could be more expedient than to pursue this
route in preference, on the present occasion, to that
of landing at Canton, in the southern extremity of
the Chinese empire, and proposing to proceed from
thence, through the interior of the country, to the capi-
tal, at the distance of about one thousand four hundred
miles. For it was, certainly, more desirable to avoid
entirely, than run the risk of, the delays which, in so
long a journey, the Embassador might be made to un-
dergo ; the obstacles that might be thrown, purposely,
in his way ; and the intrigues, for which so long a jour-

ney would afford ample opportunities. Such intrigues
VOL. I. P

tor the
Embassy.

a
34

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Preparations Were to be expected on the part of the magistrates and

for the

Embassy.

inhabitants of Canton, from their apprehension that the
Embassy would, eventually, affect the situation of the
former, on a representation of their oppressions, or
the profits of the latter, in their exclusive trade with
foreigners.

To every branch of the sea service Captain, now Sir
Erasmus Gower, was known to be fully equal. Inde-
pendently of the military exertions of this spirited and
able officer, he had, twice, at an early age, been round
the world, having suffered, and materially contributed
to surmount, the vast variety of evils incident to such
perilous and protracted voyages; by which his mind
was inured to, and provided with resources against, the
accidents of untried routes. At Lord Macartney'’s desire,
he was appointed to the command of the Lion man of
war, and gratified with the choice of his own officers,
whom he selected from a personal knowledge of their
merit. Numberless applications were made to serve
under him upon the present interesting occasion ; and
young gentlemen, of the most respectable families, glow-
ing with all the ardour and enterprize of youth, were ad-
mitted in the Lion, considerably beyond the customary
complement of midshipmen.

A military guard was allowed, also, to attend the per-
son of the Embassador, as practised in Eastern embassies ;
seldom, indeed, for the purposes of safety, but as adding
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

35

dignity to the mission. Lord Macartney’s guard was Preparations

for the

not numerous, but consisted of picked men from the Embassy.

infantry, as well as from the artillery, with light field
pieces, the rapid exercise of which, agreeably to the
recent improvements, together with the various evolu-
tions of the men, might, in these respects, convey some
idea of the European art of war, and be an interesting
spectacle to the Emperor of China; who 1s said to pride
himself as a conqueror of extensive territories, and of
many Tartar tribes. It was, however, an indispensable
precaution, to determine on maintaining strict discipline
among these men, with a view, especially, of prevent-
ing them from committing excesses of any kind ; which,
of however slight consequence elsewhere, might appear
so scandalous in the eyes of the orderly Chinese, as
to confirm the prejudices, already imbibed, against the
English.

This object was secured by putting the guard, chosen
for this purpose, under the command of an attentive and
good officer, Major, now Colonel, Benson ; assisted by
Lieutenant, now Captain, Parish; and Lieutenant, now
Lieutenant Colonel, Crewe. It will appear, in the
course of this work, that Captain Parish, who is a very
able draughtsman, has contributed to the gratification of
the curiosity of the public, by the sketches he took of
some remarkable objects throughout the route. There
were; indeed, attached to the Embassy, a painter and a

 
36 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Preparations draughtsman by profession, of whose merit sufficient
Embassy. specimens will accompany the present publication.

In Doctor Gillan, the Embassy was provided with a
skilful physician: a circumstance desirable, not only for
persons destined to pass through a variety of climates,
but also, from the consideration that, after his arrival in
China, the successful exercise of his profession among a
people, supposed to be far behind Europeans in every
kind of science, might excite their admiration as well as
gratitude ; and, thus, contribute to advance the general
purposes of the mission. The Doctor was likewise deep-
ly versed in chemistry, which being the foundation of
many of the arts most useful in society, the knowledge
of it capacitates for judging and comparing to what de-
gree of perfection they are carried in the different coun-
‘tries where they are attempted. Doctor Scot, a gen-
tleman of abilities and experience, was appointed to
be surgeon, having long served in that capacity in the
navy.

Doctor Dinwiddie and Mr. Barrow, both conversant
in astronomy, mechanics, and every other branch de-
pendent upon the mathematics, were likely to be useful
upon such an expedition as the present.

Mr. Acheson Maxwell, who had formerly resided in
India with Lord Macartney, and was much in his con-
fidence, was taken from one of the public offices to
serve, now, as Secretary to his Lordship, in conjunction
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

with Mr. Edward Winder, a young gentleman from the
university.

Mr. Henry Baring, lately appointed a writer in the
East India Company’s service, was allowed to accom-
pany the Embassy to Pekin, as qualified to improve his
residence there, to the purpose of becoming afterwards
more serviceable to his employers, at Canton.

In the train of the Embassador, also, was a page, of
years too tender not to have still occasion for a tutor,
who was a foreign gentleman of parts and erudition ;
and, it will be seen that, neither he or his pupil proved
useless to the public.

It is to be regretted, that to this list cannot be added
any professed naturalist, who might have made the most
of the opportunities for observation which such a voyage
afforded. The youngest of the party, was, perhaps, the
least ignorant in this respect. Mr. Afzelius, a Swede,
then in England, and eminent for his knowledge in most
branches of natural history, was once intended to be em-
ployed on this occasion; but he, already, had engaged
himself to go to the new settlement at Sierra Leone, on
the coast of Africa.

The zeal of naturalists was not, however, wanting ;
and two botanic gardeners were provided, one at the

public charge, and one at the expence of an individual

of the Embassy, for the purpose of collecting specimens

37

Preparations
for the
Embassy.

——mmree es
EET
38

Preparations
for the
Embassy.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

of whatever productions worthy of observation that na-

ture might furnish in the course of the expedition.

One office more was still vacant, which was as ne-
cessary, as it was difficult to fill up; that of Chinese
interpreter and translator. No man, capable of that em-
ployment, then existed throughout the British domi-
nions. From what is mentioned in the first chapter, less
surprise will be felt that the supercargoes of the English
East India Company return, after several years residence
inn China, without having made any considerable profi-
ciency in the language. One man, Mr. Flint, who had
been an exception to the rule, and continued his attach-
ment to the country, tho he had been imprisoned, and
afterwards banished by the Chinese government, for
attempting to reach Pekin, was lately dead in England.
Another, of the name of Galbert, a native of France, who
had long resided at Canton, where he applied with great
assiduity to the acquisition of the Chinese tongue, was to
have been employed as interpreter on a preceding occa-
sion’; but died before the present.

It was by no means advisable to depend on finding fit
persons at Canton for serving in that capacity. Some of
the natives there had just enough of an European lan-
guage, cither Portugueze or English, to interpret for fo-
reign merchants in mere matters of sale and purchase ;
but would be embarrassed to make out a conversation
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

upon any other subject ; nor is the dialect of the Chinese,

Preparations
for the

usually spoken by them, intelligible at Pekin; and ex- theEmbasiy.

perience had taught to doubt as much of their fidelity as
of their knowledge. Recourse, therefore, was rather to
be had to a search upon the continent of Europe, for
such trust-worthy persons, returning from China, as had
happened to acquire the language of the mandarines,
during their residence in that country; or for the few
Chinese who had left it, and had since learned any
of the European languages ; if either such were, any
where, to be found. It was known that, of the missio-
naries who are publicly tolerated at Pekin, under the
immediate protection of the Emperor, it seldom hap-
pens that any are, afterwards, allowed to leave the
country ; but others, who penetrate in disguise into
it, have occasionally returned home. Some Chinese
men of letters had found their way to Rome, where
they were employed in the care and examination of
Chinese books and manuscripts in the Vatican; and
zeal for Christianity had founded a college at Naples,
dedicated to the education of young Ghinese, whom
the European missionaries contrived to get away from
China.

Among all these, whether any were fit and willing
to be employed, upon the present occasion, was, indeed,
uncertain; but it was the best resource. And, accord-
ingly, the intended Secretary of the Embassy set out in

Cer
40

Preparations
for the
Embassy.
A Ri

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

quest of such, in January, 1792. He directed, first, his
route to Paris, where two foundations for foreign missions

still subsisted, the Maison de Saint Lazare, and the Maison

des Missions Etrangeres. The former was said to con-
tain, at that time, none who had ever been in China.
At the Missions Etrangeres was one, who had returned,
near twenty years before, from thence. He retained
but a faint remembrance of the language, and was not
disposed to visit that distant country again, upon any
terms.

It was necessary, therefore, without delay, to pursue
the journey, at a most inclement season, over the Alps,
to Italy. Tho it happened that the learned Chinese
of the Vatican were no longer in existence, a visit to
Rome was, in other respects, of use. By the means of
Cardinal Antonelli, prefect of the congregation for pro-
pagating the faith, letters of powerful recommendation
were obtained to the Italian missionaries in China, as
well as to the curators of the Chinese college at Naples.
On arriving, soon after, at this capital, the college was
found to contain several young men from China. Some
had already resided in that college many years; and the
Latin and Italian languages were sufficiently familiar
to them. Due care had been, at the same time, taken,
that they should not, by disuse, forget their own: they
being all intended for the priesthood, and to be sent
back to undertake the cure of the souls of their coun-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

11

trymen of the same faith, as well as to endeavour at per- preparations

suading others to embrace it. A few having completed Embassy.

their education, and, being in sacred orders, were ready
for embarkation; but the curators of the college, true to
the purport of its original institution, and watchful, like
matrons, against temptations in the way of young persons
under their care, were particularly cautious by what
conveyance to trust their pupils, lest any circumstance
should happen, in the course of it, to divert them from
their pious destinations.

By the assistance, however, of Sir William Hamil-
ton, his Majesty’s minister at Naples, who had on some
former occasion obliged the college, and of Don Gae-
tano d’Ancora, a respectable Neapolitan in the con-
fidence of the curators, every scruple was removed ;
and two Chinese, of amiable manners, and of a virtuous
and candid disposition, as well as perfectly qualified to
interpret between their native language and the Latin
or Italian, which the Embassador understood, accom-
panied the Secretary of the Embassy, on his return
to England, in May, 1792, in order to embark for
China. | |
They began, early, to be of use in suggesting, from
what they knew and recollected of their own country,
some of the fittest preparations for an expedition thi-
ther. In the choice of presents, according to Eastern

manners indispensable, for the Emperor and his court,
VOL. I. : G

for the

 
42

Preparations
for the
Embassy.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

they mentioned what they thought might be most
acceptable. On this head something, also, was to be
collected from what was known to be in the greatest
demand, and to bring the highest profit, at Canton.
Extraordinary pieces of ingenious and complicated me-
chanism, set in frames of precious metal, studded with
jewels, and producing, by the means of internal springs
and wheels, movements apparently spontaneous, had,
often, borne excessive prices. They were, indeed, of
no sort of use; but the imagination of the governing
mandarines had been struck by them ; and an intimation
often followed to the native merchants to procure them,
no matter at what price. This mandate it was dan-
gerous to disobey; and the machines were afterwards
accepted, formally, as gifts; or a sum, small and dispro-
portionate to the cost, was given in return for them, in
order that the transaction might have the appearance of
a common purchase. Toys of this kind, or sing-songs,
according to the corrupt jargon of Canton, to the enor-
mous value of, at least, a million of pounds sterling,
were, in this manner, introduced by private traders
into China. Most of these expensive articles found:
their way, finally, into the palaces of the Emperor, and
his ministers. Having been obtained by the mandarines
of Canton for little other consideration than the promise
of protection to their inferiors, they were, after a short
time, transmitted without reluctance, by the former, to
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

45

Pekin, in the hope of thereby securing the favour of preparations

their superiors.

It would have been vain to think of surpassing, in
~ public presents of this kind, either as to workmanship
or cost, what had already been conveyed to China
through private channels; and it was to be hoped that
the momentary gratification produced by those gaudy
trifles, had been satiated by the accumulation of them.
But it was thought that whatever tended to illustrate
science, or promote the arts, would give more solid and
permanent satisfaction to a prince, whose time of life
would, naturally, lead him to seek, in every object, the
utility of which it was susceptible.

Astronomy being a science peculiarly esteemed in
China, and deemed worthy of the attention and occu-
pation of the government, the latest and most improved
instruments for assisting its operations, as well as the
most perfect imitation that had yet been made of the
celestial movements, could scarcely fail of being ac-

ceptable.

Specimens of the best British manufactures, and all

for the
Embassy.

es Stes

the late inventions for adding to the conveniences and

comforts of social life, might answer the double purpose
of gratifying those to whom they were to be presented,
and of exciting a more general demand afterwards for
similar articles, in the way of purchase, from the Com-
pany or private merchants.
14

Preparations
for the
Embassy.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

The East India Company appointed one of the largest

and most commodious ships in their service, under the

~ command of an experienced and judicious officer, Cap-

tain Mackintosh, to carry out those presents, together
with such persons, belonging to the Embassy, as could
not be conveniently accommodated on board the Lion.
A smaller vessel was, also, provided as a tender. Intel-
ligence being frequently conveyed from foreign ports to
China, an account of these preparations could not fail of
reaching it before the Embassador.

~ It became proper, therefore, to take an early oppor-
tunity of announcing the Embassy, regularly, to the
Chinese government: thus securing the effects of first
impressions ; lest, otherwise, the undertaking might,
through error or design, be made to assume a warlike or
suspicious appearance, and the Embassador’s reception,
thereby, be rendered dubious. Three Commissioners had
lately been selected by the East India Company, among
their most approved servants, to regulate their affairs at
Canton. To these it was entrusted to communicate,
there, with due solemnity, the intended mission of Lord
Macartney, and to deliver a letter, expressive of this in-
tention, from Sir Francis Baring, then Chairman of the
Court of Directors, in so public a manner to the Viceroy
of Canton, as to prevent the possibility of its being kept
from the knowledge of the Emperor, if such should be
the Viceroy’s inclination.
EMBASSY TO CHINA. 45

In this letter Sir Francis stated that, ‘“ his most gra- Preparations
“ cious: Sovereign having heard that it had been ex- Pt.
« pected his subjects, settled at Canton, should have a
“« sent a deputation to the court of Pekin, in order to
« congratulate the Emperor on his entering into the
«« eightieth year of his age, but that such deputation
« had not been immediately dispatched, expressed great
« displeasure thereat; and, being desirous of cultivating
« the friendship of the Emperor of China, and of im-
“ proving the connection, intercourse, and good corres-
‘« pondence between the courts of London and Pekin,
« and of increasing and extending the commerce be-
« tween their respective subjects, had resolved to send
«« his well-beloved cousin and counsellor Lord Macart-
““ ney, a nobleman of great virtue, wisdom, and ability,
« as his Embassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary
““ to the Emperor of China, to represent his person, and
‘“ to express, in the strongest terms, the satisfaction he
« should feel if this mark of his attention and regard
«« should serve as a foundation to establish a perpetual
““ harmony and alliance between them; and that the
‘ Embassador, with his attendants, should soon set out
«upon the voyage; and, having several presents for
“ the Emperor, from his Britannic Majesty, which,
“ from their size, and nicety of mechanism, could not
“ be conveyed through the interior of China, to so great
« a distance as from Canton to Pekin, without the risk
46 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Preparations ‘“ of damage, he should proceed, directly, in one of his
or the *

Embassy. ‘“ Majesty's ships, properly accompanied, to the port of
““ Tien-sing, approaching, in the first instance, as near
“¢ as possible, to the residence of the Emperor of China.”
And Sir Francis concludes by ¢‘ requesting the informa-
“¢ tion, thus given, to be conveyed to the court of Pekin,
“ trusting that the Imperial orders would be issued for
““ the proper reception of the King of Great Britain's
‘“ ships, with his Embassador and suite, as soon as they
“ should appear at Tien-sing, or the neighbouring coasts."

The presents mentioned in that letter were, indeed,
so choice and valuable, as, to some persons, to denote a
very extraordinary purpose. The members of the diplo-
matic corps, who consider it as a duty incumbent upon
them to be alive to every transaction of the government
where they are directed to reside, were particularly at-
tentive on this occasion. One of these, who still held
to the exploded prejudice of the jealousy of commerce,
not being, it seems, aware that the world was wide enough
for all who chose to embark in that kind of life, and that
it flourished best by reciprocation, failed not to attribute
to the British Administration, and East India Company,
a design of engrossing the total trade of China, by the
exclusion of all other foreigners; and proposed a coun-
ter embassy, to avert the evil. So far, however, was
the impracticable project of an attempt at a monopoly
of the Chinese commerce removed from the mind of
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

those, who thus were suspected of it, that the republic
of the United Provinces being then in alliance with
G reat Britain, and coming next to it in the proportion

of the traffic carried on with the Chinese, a communi-
cation of the intended Embassy was expressly made to’

the States General of that republic, with offers of service,
to be performed by the Embassador, in case that any
circumstance, in the commercial position of the Dutch
factory at Canton, should call for his particular inter-
position.

The general scope of the present mission cannot, in-
deed, be better ascertained than by his Majesty's private
instructions to his Embassador, signified to him through
one of his principal Secretaries of State; in which
it is observed, that “ a greater number of his subjects,
““ than of any other Europeans, had been trading, for
“ a considerable time past, in China; that the commer-
““ cial intercourse between several other nations and
““ that great empire had been preceded, accompanied,
““ or followed, by special communications with its
“ sovereign. Others had the support of missionaries,
““ who, from their eminence in science, or ingenuity
“ in the arts, had been frequently admitted to the fa-
““ miliarity of a curious and polished court, and which
missionaries, in the midst of their cares for the pro-
““ pagation of their faith, were not supposed to have
‘“ been unmindful of the views and interests of their

£6

47

Preparations
for the
Embassy.

eee.
48 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Preparations ** COUNLIY ; while the English traders remained un-
Jor the

Embassy. ‘¢ alded, and as it were, unavowed, at a distance so
‘“ remote as to admit of a misrepresentation of the na-

‘“ tional character and importance ; and where, too, their

‘¢ occupation was not held in that esteem, which might

‘“ be necessary to procure them safety and respect ;”

that, ¢ under these circumstances, it became the dignity

““ and character of his Majesty to extend his paternal

““ regard to these his distant subjects, even if the com-

‘““ merce and prosperity of the nation were not con-

‘“ cerned in their success; and to claim the Emperor

‘““ of China's protection for them, with that weight

‘“ which 1s due to the requisition of one great sovereign

‘“ from another;” that, ‘‘ a free communication with a

‘* people, perhaps the most singular upon the globe,

‘“ among whom civilization had existed, and the arts

‘“ been cultivated, through a long series of ages, with

‘“ fewer interruptions than elsewhere, was well worthy,

‘“ also, of being sought by the British nation, which

‘“ saw with pleasure, and with gratitude applauded, the

““ several voyages undertaken already, by his Majesty's

“¢ command, and at the public expence, in the pursuit

‘“ of knowledge, and for the discovery and observation

of distant countries and manners; but that, ¢ in
‘“ seeking to improve a connection with China, no
‘“ views were entertained except those of the general
‘“ interests of humanity, the mutual benefit of both

~

¢

a

o
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

49

*“ nations, and the protection of commerce under the Preparations

“¢ Chinese government.”

In the same spirit, it is said in his Majesty’s letter to
the Emperor of China, that, ¢* the natural disposition of
““ a great and benevolent sovereign, such as his Imperial
“« Majesty, whom Providence had seated upon the throne
““ for the good of mankind, was to watch over the peace
‘“ and security of his dominions; and to take pains for
‘“ disseminating happiness, virtue, and knowledge among
‘“ his subjects: extending the same beneficence, with all
‘“ the peaceful arts, as far as he was able, to the whole
‘“ human race.” That his Britannic Majesty, ¢‘impressed
‘“ with such sentiments from the very beginning of his
‘“ reign, when he found his people engaged in war, had

«

““ granted to his enemies, after obtaining victories over
‘“ them in the four quarters of the world, the blessings
‘“ of peace, upon the most equitable conditions ;” that,
~ ¢“ since that period, not satisfied with promoting the pros-
‘“ perity of his own subjects, in every respect, and be-
‘“ yond the example of all former times, he had taken
“ various opportunities of fitting out ships, and sending,
‘“ in them, some of the most wise and learned of his own
‘“ people, for the discovery of distant and unknown re-
“ gions; not for the purpose of conquest, or of enlarging
his dominions, which were already sufficiently exten-
sive for all his wishes, nor for the purpose of acquiring

wealth, nor even for favouring the commerce of his
VOL. I. H

“6

§

«

for the
Embassy.
50

Preparations
for the
Embassy.

ee es
AION

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

““ subjects; but for the sake of increasing the knowledge
““ of the habitable globe, of finding out the various pro-
« ductions of the earth ; and for communicating the arts
““ and comforts of life to those parts, where they had hi-
““ therto been little known ; and” that * he had since
““ sent vessels, with animals and vegetables most useful
““ to man, to islands and places where, it appeared, they
* had been wanting; that ‘‘ he had been still more
“ anxious to inquire into the arts and manners of coun-
““ tries, where civilization had been improved by the
wise ordinances and virtuous examples of their sove-
reigns, through a long series of ages; and felt, above
all, an ardent wish to become acquainted with those
celebrated institutions of his (Chinese) Majesty’s popu-
lous and extensive empire, which had carried its pros-
perity to such a height, as to be the admiration of all
‘“ surrounding nations.” That ¢¢ his Britannic Majesty
‘ being then at peace with all the world, no time could
‘“ be so propitious for extending the bounds of friendship
and benevolence, and for proposing to communicate
and receive the benefits which must result from an un-
reserved and amicable intercourse between such great
and civilized nations as China and Great Britain.”

The object of the Embassy was, indeed, so little con-
fined to mercantile concerns at Canton, that Lord Macart-
ney had discretionary authority to visit, beside China,
every othér country (in that division of Asia which may

-
o~

ce

§¢

c¢

€¢
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

51

be termed the Chinese Archipelago), from whence utility Preparations

or important information was to be derived ; and he had,
accordingly, embassadorial powers addressed to the Em-
peror of Japan, and the King of Cochin-China, as well
as a general commission to all princes and states, where
he might have occasion to touch in the Chinese seas.
At length, every thing being ready, and the ships at
Portsmouth, all those, who were to accompany, or attend
the Embassador, to the amount of near one hundred per-
sons, including some musicians and artificers, beside sol-
diers and servants, joined his Excellency there in Sep-
tember, 1792, in order for embarkation ; and meeting
all together, perhaps, for the first time. They were, in
future, to compose, in effect, one family united by a
common destination, and by the ties of interest and duty.
Independently of those whose thoughts were concen-
trated in ¢¢ the care of living,” and who were passive

and indifferent to all things else, the rest might be con-

sidered as entering into a new period of existence. They
had just quitted their former stations, oldest habits, and
most close connections, to engage in a hazardous, but in-
teresting, enterprize. They were not Argonauts, indeed,
actuated by the hope of obtaining a golden fleece; but,
impelled by the strong incentive of curiosity, and eager
to indulge the spirit of inquiry, they already contem-
plated China as almost within their grasp, while objects

and topics, occupying the attention, and agitating the.

or the
Embassy.
152 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Preparations minds, of those about them, and formerly their own,
for the g . . .
Embassy. seemed to lose the interest they had hitherto excited;

EE. ° ° °

and a more captivating, tho distant prospect, appeared
rising from the horizon to take possession of their
thoughts.

They, thus, willingly withdrew from the considera-
tion of Europe, and its events; and felt no regret, except
where the affections of nature intervened, when it was
announced that the wind and weather were favourable

for departure.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

CHAPTER III.

PASSAGE TO MADEIRA. NOTICES OF THAT ISLAND.

453

Tue Lion and Hindostan, having on board the Pasig to

Embassador and his suite, set sail from Portsmouth on
the 26th of September, 1792, as did also the Jackall brig
intended to serve as a tender to the Lion. Ac this season
of the year, when the earth’s relative position to the sun
occasions equal day and night throughout the globe, and
the change of the sun’s declination is most rapid, a sen-
sible effect is frequently produced, likewise, upon the
atmosphere, in which sudden and violent commotions,
termed equinoctial gales, render navigation, at this pe-
riod, more hazardous than at any other. But the degree
of improvement to which the nautical art is brought, at
present, and the expertness and hardihood of those who
practise it, enable them to combat, successfully, tempests
happening at a distance from the shore, wherever, ac-
cording to the marine phrase, there is plenty of sea room ;
and leave them little apprehension, at any season, if the
moment of setting off be fair.

The course of the voyage to China, immediately from
Portsmouth, leading, in the first instance, through the
British Channel, to the westward, required a wind,

Madeira.
54

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Passage to Which is observed to blow there less frequently than

Madeira.
Re I —

others, and for a shorter continuance. Sir Erasmus
Gower availed himself of such a wind, therefore, as
soon as it took place; and the Embassador, anxious to
have the whole benefit of it, to clear the Channel, re-
sisted his inclination, notwithstanding the invitation
sent to him to stop at Weymouth, where their Majesties
then were, with most of the royal family. The weather,
however, did not long continue moderate. The ships,
in the darkness of the night, soon lost company of the
tender, and they were, themselves, forced to take shelter
in Torbay. In the delay of a couple of days here,
which an adverse wind made necessary, the arrange-
ments for the future voyage were made, to the general
satisfaction.

They, who measure the inconveniences to be felt in

‘traversing the ocean in modern times, by the specimen

of what most persons, not accustomed to the sea, often suf-
fer during their passage in small and crowded packets,
between England and the Continent, would be agree-
ably disappointed on embarking in such ships as were
now in the service of the Embassy, where every comfort
was provided. In the Lion, notwithstanding its being
burthened with the baggage and usual incumbrances of
travellers, as well as with warlike stores, and those re-
quired for navigation, likewise every article for suste-

nance for four hundred men, including passengers and :
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

55

crew, for a considerable time to come, together with the passage to

Madeira.

materials requisite to prepare such articles for use, yet =———

room was left for procuring several of the advantages of a
dwelling upon land. A considerable space was allotted,
and distributed into regular apartments, and separate
chambers, for the principal passengers and officers,
where they might partake of society, or withdraw to
privacy, at their option ; and the deck formed an open
area, sufficiently spacious and convenient to allow the
enjoyment of air and exercise. Even that sickness, so
little dangerous, but so excruciating, to which persons
first going to sea are subject, particularly in small ves-
sels, 1s less felt in those of considerable size, and in
fewer instances. It, generally, happens likewise that
men bound on a distant expedition, conscious of the
length of time during which, tho they are constantly
- moving forward, they are to move in the same vehicle,
dispose their minds to render it as pleasant to themselves
as’ possible, as well as to be reconciled to what they
cannot alter for the better.

- It must be confessed, indeed, that landsmen, reflect-
ing on their situation when at sea, may be sometimes
conscious of their inferiority to those, under whose
direction they have placed themselves, on this new
element. Unacquainted with the structure of the ca-
pacious and complicated machine that holds them, and
on whose solidity and successful movements depends

 
56

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Passage to the preservation of their lives, as well as their arrival

Madeira.

at the place of their destination ; idle and unintelligent
spectators of the methods and efforts practised to for-
ward and regulate those movements for the common
good ; necessarily passive and obedient to those who un-
derstand and act upon the occasion ; they may, at times,
regret their own temporary inutility, and dependence.
Such impressions, however, probably, are slight and
transitory ; and scarcely damp that happiness of which
a passenger's life at sea is certainly susceptible. What-
ever was his situation before he quitted land cannot
be amended, now, by the further application of his
thoughts to the means of effecting such an alteration ;
and the train of his labours and solicitudes, at least,
suspended, his mind experiences that calm and rest, to
which it had, perhaps, been hitherto a stranger. Now
satisfied with receiving and communicating the gratifi-
cations of social converse, or partaking in any amuse-
ment which fancy may suggest; without being dis-
turbed by the common cares and ordinary incidents of
the voyage ; and implicitly confiding in the skill and
diligence of those to whose management it had been
entrusted ; as little affected by the apprehension of ca-
lamities, to which all voyages are liable, while no
accident intervenes to present danger to the imagina-
tion, as by the consciousness of mortality in the fullness
of health ; he is entirely open to the enjoyment of the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

57

present hour: until the view of other shores shall sti- Passage to

mulate to fresh pursuits, and agitate again his breast
with hopes and fears.

‘Of the passengers in the Lion and Hindostan, very
few felt severely from sea sickness, notwithstanding the
roughness of the weather. A distinction appeared, upon
this occasion, in the temperaments of men, which no-
thing in their appearance could have previously denoted.
‘The two gentlemen who were now most sick, were of
an adult age, of a frame sufficiently robust, had gene-
rally been healthy, and had already been at sea; while
another, the honourable Mr. West, who was going in
the Lion, in his way to try the climate of Madeira for a
consumption, to which he has fallen since a victim, was
not affected by the utmost motion of the ship. None
of the midshipmen, tho they had no other lodging,
by the regulations of the navy, than that of swinging
in hammocks over the coilings of the cables, near that
part of the ship which is called the cockpit, and where
hot and confined air, and even, sometimes, noisome
scents, might be apt to provoke nausea in the stomach,
seemed to suffer from sea sickness; tho some of them
were of very tender years, now on their first voyage,
and of a constitution apparently delicate. They, pro-
bably, were preserved, in some measure, from every
complaint, by their extraordinary activity and exertions

in the performance of their new duty, and by the
VOL. I. I

Madeira.
EET
58

Passage to
Madeira.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

elevation of their spirits, on being liberated from the
shackles of a school, and gratified with a subordinate
authority in the ship. They were the first to ascend
the tops of the masts, or to clamber on the beams, called
yards, suspended across them, holding only by a rope,
and in such apparent peril, that a young spectator,
reflecting on the quick alarms of maternal tenderness, -
exclaimed, in the language usually spoken to the Chinese
interpreters,—s: malres nunc viderent! were their mo-
thers to see them in that posture! :

On the first of October the ships set sail again, tak-
ing their last departure out of England, from Torbay,
and stretching over from the hilly coast of Devonshire,
came soon within view of Britany, and the flat isle of
Ushant, after which they saw, for nine days, no land.
However usual such a situation is to every navigator,
since the invention of the mariner’s compass, it is an
awful spectacle to him; who gets into it for the first
time ; and the mind contemplates, with some degree of
admiration, the ingenuity of man, in applying the qua-
lity of a particular fossil (which under a certain form,
and properly suspended, points always towards the
same portion of the heavens) to the purpose of directing
his way through the trackless ocean. When out of
sight of land a pleasurable sensation is always felt on
meeting with other vessels. Several were perceived
availing themselves of the same wind to go different
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

59

routes ; but the English having then no enemy to ap- Passage to

prehend or to attack, the progress of the present voyage
was not impeded by efforts to approach to, or avoid
them ; and Sir Erasmus Gower continued to steer, with
favourable gales, in a direction parallel to, tho not in
sicht of, Spain, Portugal, the Straits of Gibraltar, and the
northern part of Africa. |

Sir Erasmus observed, that ‘¢ all ships, bound from
‘“ Europe for the island of Madeira, will discover that
‘“ their way 1s influenced by a current, or set, from the
‘“ Western ocean into the Bay, formed between Ushant
¢¢ and Cape Finisterre, and into the Mediterranean, and,
«« 25 well as his observations, in five visits to Madeira,
¢¢ could enable him to ascertain, such current should be
‘“ estimated to set south-east, about eleven miles in fifty
‘ leagues.”

The ships, steering their course agreeably to this
estimate, and assisted for the correction of the log
reckoning, as to longitude, by several time-keepers and
lunar observations, found themselves on the tenth of
October in sight of the islands of Porto Santo and Ma-
deira. When abreast of Porto Santo, Madeira appeared
as one great mountain, whose summit was hidden in
the clouds. Shortly, afterwards, appeared three very
small islands, called the Desertas, of which the two
most distant were little better than pointed rugged rocks.

The third, called the Table Deserta, was elevated, but

Madeira.

 
60 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Passage to flat, and in some state of cultivation. Near it is a sin-
Madeira. =
=== gular rock rising perpendicularly out of the sea.
Sir Erasmus advises ‘¢ all ships bound for the island
of Madeira to endeavour to make or steer for Porto
‘ Santo, and then proceed for the Brazen-head, or east-
ern point of the road of Funchal, the capital of the
‘“ island, by going between it and the Desertas, off the
““ northernmost of which is a high rock frequently
‘“ mistaken for a sail. The passage is about nine miles
wide, but without soundings, except in very deep
<« water, close to Madeira. The latitude of the road is
““ thirty-two degrees thirty-seven minutes thirty seconds
north, and the longitude, ascertained by several eclipses
of the satellites of Jupiter, and by an eclipse of the
sun on the fourth of June, 1788, is seventeen degrees
five minutes west of Greenwich. The compass had
eighteen degrees thirty-five minutes variation to the
‘“ westward of the pole. The tide flows, at the full and
‘¢ change of the moon, north-north-west and south-south-
east ; spring tides rise perpendicularly seven feet;
‘“ neap tides five feet. The flood sets to the eastward.
¢¢ The regulations of the port require all ships, before,
or immediately on, anchoring, to send to acquaint
+ the governor of the island with an account of what
¢¢ they are, and their reasons for stopping there. Men
of war are not to send their boats to vessels coming
‘into the road, until they are visited by the pratique-

£8

6<

¢

on

£6

é¢

¢

=

6¢

§.¢

LE

&¢
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

61

«« boat, or boat whose business is to inquire lest any Pasageto

¢

~

£6

ce

€¢

66

6¢

€¢

€6

6c

6c

€¢

c€

€¢

£¢

66

6

£6

113

£¢

£¢

6¢

cc

6¢

6

£6

infectious disorder should be on board. The same is
to be observed respecting vessels that are departing,
which are not to be boarded after the visiting officer
has been to search for natives leaving the island clan-
destinely, and for prohibited goods. English men of
war salute with thirteen guns, after receiving an as-
surance of a return of an equal number.

‘“ Ships’ boats may land on the beach during the sum-
mer months; but when there is no landing of goods
to make it necessary, it is better to be avoided, at all
seasons, both for the safety of the boats, which are
driven by a violent surge on a shingly shore, and for
preventing the common men from having the opportu-
nity of frequenting the disorderly houses in the neigh-
bourhood of the beach, and drinking the pernicious
spirituous liquors vended thereabouts. The landing
near the Loo rock, being defended from the surge, is
very safe and easy; and tho there are cottages near
to it, the boat’s people may be easily kept from them.
Caution is necessary, likewise, against the shore boats
coming on board, under pretence of selling fish, fruits,
and vegetables ; for their chief object is the sale of the
worst spirituous liquors, and often concealed goods.
Fresh beef, water, and vegetables are to be procured

here for the ship’s company, and are sent on board in
boats belonging to the place.

Madeira.

 
62

Passage to
Madeira.

TI

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘“ The British government allows the contractor five
¢ shillings a ton for water, and sixpence a pound for
“ beef, for the use of the crews of his Majesty's ships of
‘« war. The contract wine is of a weak quality, and will
““ not keep; and the price is sixteen pounds for a ton,
« containing one hundred and twenty gallons. A fleet
«“ of twenty sail of men of war may be amply supplied
‘« with refreshments here, if their stay should not exceed
““ ten days.

‘“ The road is open from the west to the south-south-
‘« east. The winds blow strongest here from south-west
‘“ to south-east. Ships obliged to anchor in the winter
“ in Funchal road should be very attentive to the dark
‘ gloomy appearance of the weather to the southward,
‘“ with a swell setting in; for it is very dangerous re-
‘“ maining at anchor with those prognostics.”

It has been thought a harbour might be constructed,
tho at a considerable expence, by uniting the Fort de
Ilheo, commonly called the Loo castle, with a rocky
neck of land that jets into the water towards it, distant
about one hundred and twenty yards. The depth of
water, through this narrow passage, 1s from six to seven
fathoms; so that it would require an immense mass of
stone work, of which the materials are, indeed, at hand,
fo withstand the heavy sea, which almost perpetually
tumbles in when the wind is blowing from the south-
ward ; and which has frequently been known to break

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

over the Loo castle, a height presumed to be no less than
eighty feet. Such a harbour would, indeed, contain but
a very few vessels, beside the craft employed in carry-
ing commodities from the capital to the smaller ports,
and bringing from thence to it the produce of the island.
During the stormy season, those vessels moor within the
Loo rock, and are secured by additional cables to the
shore ; and thus, when tempests threaten, they are en-
tirely left to take their chance, being quitted by the
crew, who seek refuge upon land.

The island of Madeira, at first view, appeared rocky,
barren, and uncultivated ; but its beauties expanded to
the eye on a nearer approach; and nothing could be
more picturesque and inviting, than the appearance of
Funchal and its adjacent hills, when observed from the
ships at anchor. The town is situated in the midst of a
verdant valley, in which churches and other buildings,
white on the outside, being interspersed, make an agree-
~ able contrast with the ever-green trees and plantations.
Spring and summer may be said to be the only seasons;
and it is observed that the cold or heat here are seldom
so great as to be unpleasant. During the Embassador’s
stay, Fahrenheit’s thermometer was from sixty-nine to
seventy-two degrees, in the shade, at noon. It is seldom
found to exceed seventy-five degrees in the autumn, in
the middle of the vintage; and, in January, it is about

63

Madeira.

sixty-four in Funchal, tho the tops of the hills, in sight |
64

Madeira.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

above it, are then covered with snow. The ships having
left England in the beginning of October, when vegeta-
tion, in some instances, already began to fade, and to
announce the speedy droop of nature, its wild luxuri-
ance in Madeira was the more striking, to natives of
northern regions, landing, so soon afterwards, on that
island. The whole creation seemed there alive. Myriads
of insects were buzzing in the air; swarms of lizards
moved along the ground in every direction. Scarcely
a plant was without fruit or flower; every tree was in
leaf: some of the humble herbs of Europe growing here
into the habit and size of shrubs. Nothing appeared
languid, or declining, except, perhaps, man might be so
considered. Most of the common people had dark com-
plexions, forbidding features, were under the middle
size of Europeans, with little of the spirit and activity
of the original inhabitants of Africa, or of the colder
parts of Europe. The offspring of the latter, transferred
to southern countries, often become, it seems, enervated
and listless.

Every honour and attention, due to the representa-
tive of a friendly and powerful Sovereign, was paid, by
order of the Portugueze Governor, to the Embassador,
as well on board the Lion, as on his going ashore, and
after he was landed. His Excellency declined a military
guard ; but yielded to the solicitation of the Gover-

nor to partake of an entertainment, which was indeed
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

sumptuous; and to which also were invited, beside the
gentlemen in the suite of the Embassador, and officers
of the Lion and Hindostan, the merchants of the British
factory, the chief officers of government and of the gar-
rison, and several of the principal inhabitants of the
island, in all about two hundred persons; but not one
lady was present, except, in the beginning, the Gover-
nor's daughter, about ten years old, who was dressed in
all the formality of a woman, and did the honours of the
table without embarrassment; and at the desert, which
was laid out in fresh and cool apartments, where the Go-
vernor’s lady presided, she being too much indisposed
to be present at the whole entertainment. She was ad-
dressed by the name of Donna Louisa, and her daughter
by that of Donna Maria, it seeming to be the custom of
the Portugueze of rank, to use only the baptismal name
preceded by a title, tho they bear several surnames. The
Governor had those of Pereira, Forjas, and Coutinho,
probably belonging to the most distinguished families
from which he was descended.

In the hall of the government house was painted the
popular and interesting, but doubtful, story of the first
discovery of Madeira, by an Englishman, called Robert
Macham, who lived towards the end of the reign of the
third Edward. This man, it is said, of obscure birth, had
~ fallen in love with a young damsel, called Anne d’Arfet,

of exquisite beauty, and of a noble family, which, dis-
YOL, I. K

635

Madeira.

 

 
66

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Madeira. daining so low an alliance, tho Macham had gained her

 

affections, obtained a warrant from the king to keep

him in a prison, until the young lady was persuaded

to marry a nobleman, who took her immediately to his
seat near Bristol. Macham, some time afterwards, being
released, found means to convey the lady on board a
vessel provided to carry them to France. A storm
suddenly arising, and the ship being ill manned, they
were driven far to sea, and tossed, for thirteen days, at
the mercy of the waves, out of sight of any land. At
length, however, they thought they descried something
like it, which redoubling their efforts to approach,
they perceived an island, overgrown with wood. The
vessel was soon at anchor; and Macham and the lady,
with a few attendants, went on shore, and sought shel-
ter by building a kind of hut under the branches of a
wide spreading tree. In the course of the night a tem-
pest drove the vessel from her anchors, and carried her
to the Barbary coast, where she was wrecked, and the
seamen made captives by the Moors. The lady was so
affected by this fresh disaster, that she died in a short
time; and Macham, through grief, soon followed her.
Their attendants, rendered desperate by the loss of their
conductor, quitted the island, and betaking themselves
to their open boat, put out to sea, without knowing even

what course to steer. After a series of adventures, these

men fell in with a Spaniard, who, much affected by
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

their story, communicated it to Gonzales Zarco, sent by
the king of Portugal, on a voyage of discovery, and pre-
vailed upon him to sail in search of the island. How-
ever imperfectly its situation had been described by
the English sailors, it was in a little time found out by
him.

The particulars of this story have, indeed, the testi-
mony of Alcafarado, a contemporary author, who, at
the instance of Henry, Prince of Portugal, composed a
book entitled, A Relation of the first Discovery of the
Island of Madeira; but De Barros, the Livy of the Por-
tugueze, ascribes it entirely to Gonzales Zarco and Tris-
tan Vas.

Another native of Great Britain, Mr. William John-
stone, lately a merchant in Madeira, who joined the
pursuits of science to the avocations of his profession,
by an union less rare in the present than in any former
age, made a geometrical survey of this island. He found
it to be in the form of, nearly, a parallelogram, the mean
length of which, from west-north-west to east-south-
east, was about thirty-seven miles, and mean breadth
eleven miles, containing an area of four hundred and
seven square miles, or two hundred and sixty thou-
sand four hundred and eighty acres. It is divided into
thirty-seven parishes, and is said to contain about eighty
thousand inhabitants; so that there are near two hun-
dred persons for every square mile, and, on an average,

67

Madeira.
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68

Madeira.
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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

every individual might possess upwards of three acres
of land.

A great part of Madeira, however, seems incapable of
cultivation: the sides of the hills being steep and rugged,
and almost destitute of soil. The waters, in their descent
from the mountains, form a number of narrow vallies,
in all of which small patches of cultivated ground ap-
pear, and in many of them are situate pleasant little vil-
lages. The sides of the hills are so thinly covered with
soil, that necessity has compelled the cultivators to en-
deavour to add to it, by breaking such pieces of the
scattered rock, as contain vegetable matter, into smaller
parts, over which the rills, from the heights, being
made to flow, the fragments soon are found to crumble
and become a fertile mould. This is, perhaps, the strong-
est instance of their industry. Indolence is predominant,
particularly with the men; who often lie basking in the
sun, or stretched at their length upon their floors, while
their wives and daughters are sent to the distance of some
miles, up the mountains, to cut down broom, which they
carry in loads to Funchal, where it is bought for fuel.
‘These women, notwithstanding the roughness of the
roads, travel constantly barefooted. The poorness of
their-food, consisting chiefly of pumpkins and salt fish,
added to the severity of their labour, and the warmth of
the climate, give them the appearance of age at an early

period of life.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

The chief produce of the island is the grape, from
which are made, annually, upon an average, nearly
twenty-five thousand pipes of wine, of one hundred and
twenty gallons each; half of which is exported to Eng-
land, North America, and the East and West Indies ;
the remainder is consumed by the natives, in its original
state, or in that of spirit distilled from it. The grape of
Madeira is generally white, and produces a juice of the
same colour; but there are others which yield a deeper
coloured juice, forming a red wine, called Tinto, of
which a mixture with the former, in a small proportion,
serves to give it a darker tinge.

There is, likewise, a red skinned grape, called Bas-
tarda, of which the juice is white. In some few soils
another grape is raised, remarkably rich and sweet,
from which is produced the celebrated Malmsey wine.
Of this the average quantity made is said to approach
five hundred pipes, and sells at about sixty pounds a
pipe. Of the other wine, which, in contradistinction, is
called dry or hard Madeira, the highest price charged,
when new, to dealers in that article, seldom exceeds
thirty-two pounds a pipe. From other persons, accord-
ing to the custom in every branch of trade, a larger
sum always is demanded. For old wine an addition of
twenty shillings a pipe, or more, 1s made for every year
it has been kept, as an equivalent for leakage, evapora-
tion, and interest of the capital remaining engaged in it.

69

Madeira.

mee eet.
CR i STIR ATR
70

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Main. The average price of every kind of wine is fourteen

pounds, or thereabouts; and reduces the whole ex-
port value considerably under two hundred thousand
pounds ; part of which serves to pay for manufactures
from Great Britain, flour and salt fish from America,
and corn from the western isles, belonging, as well as
Madeira, to the crown of Portugal.

It is not uncommon for the merchants of Madeira to
purchase British goods, bought there, at the rate of
twenty-five per cent. profit on the original price, as set
forth in the bill of parcels. The bill, indeed, is some-
times altered in the passage between England and Ma-
deira, and higher prices annexed, as having been paid
for every article. This unwarrantable practice is so
well known, as to have given the name of salt-water
invoices to such fabricated accounts ; by which, however,
the consumers are the only sufferers, as the Madeira
merchant demands, generally, the same proportionate
advance, beyond what he pays, for the commodities he
has for sale.

The government of Portugal i imposes a duty upon all
imports into Madeira, except provisions, as well as upon
wine exported ; and levies, likewise, internal taxes. Yet
the whole is said to net no more than eight thousand
pounds, after all the civil and military expences are de-
frayed. The profits, accruing from that island, are un-
doubtedly more considerable to Great Britain than to
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

its parent state, in consequence of the trade carried on madeira.

to it, and by the British factory settled in it, consisting
now of upwards of twenty commercial houses, and
whose acquired fortunes centre in Great Britain. Other
nations share but little with them in the Madeira trade.
Even the Portugueze, who have attempted to vie with
them, are seldom found to prosper, having, it is sup-
posed, less commercial knowledge, as well, probably,
as a smaller capital and credit, and fewer foreign con-
nections.

The British merchants attach to their interest the
cultivators of the vine, by supplying in advance to all
their wants, in the intervals of the vintage, and in the
seasons when it fails. Their dealings with the Portu-
gueze inhabitants of Funchal must also be extensive ;
independently of which, there does not appear much
social intercourse between them.

Enough, however, has subsisted to introduce, among
the latter, those associations of affected secrecy, called
fraternities of Free-masons, which in England are de-
voted, certainly, to good fellowship, and, frequently,
promote the purposes of charity ; but in countries
where, from the nature of the government, freedom of
conversation is constrained, such societies may favour,
from the privacy of their meetings, an unreserved com-

munication of sentiment, rendered, on that account,
suspicious.

71
72 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Madeira The Roman Catholic clergy, observing the fervour
of devotion slackened among the laity, to the degree of
rendering it difficult to recruit their convents with pro-

 

per subjects, were apt to attribute so alarming a decline
of zeal to the propagation of free-thinking among Free-
masons, and applied to the arm of the inquisition for
their punishment and expulsion. A persecution ensued
against many of the principal Portugueze resident in
Madeira, which was likely to be attended with very
serious consequences, had not the present minister of
foreign affairs at Lisbon, the Chevalier de Pinto, a man
of a liberal mind, and much in the confidence of the
Prince of Brazils, regent of the Portugueze dominions
during the indisposition of his mother, procured an
edict, by which it was ordained, that << all the i 1nquisitors
‘“ and judges of the tribunal of the inquisition should,
‘as soon as any information were given to the said tri-
‘“ bunal, immediately investigate the same ; and, when
*“ the culprit was in custody, should appoint advocates
““ for the defence of the aforesaid culprit; and whenever
* sentence should be pronounced against him, the pro-
‘ ceedings should be sent, immediately, under cover,
““ to the secretary of state, Don Jose de Scabra, in order
““ to be presented to the regent, that his highness might
‘“ determine thereupon what he should think fit; and
““ that the proceedings should be so sent within two
““ months after seizure of the culprit, it not being the -
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

““ regent’s intention that any Portuguese subject should wudeira

‘* suffer for years in a rigorous prison.’

The spirit that dictated this edict, as well as the pro-
visions it contains, are found sufficient to arrest the
tyranny of the inquisition. Nor is it upheld, as for-
merly, by the superstitious attachment of the people.
Even the women are said to be less religious. None
have taken the veil in Madeira during the last twenty
years. The influence of the Portugueze clergy was for-
merly without bounds. They governed every private
family. Something of this sway was still perceptible
at the governor's entertainment, where a forward and
drunken friar walked round the tables, commanding
attention, and impertinently interfering, without inter-
ruption or reprimand.

The British factory has always been protected against :

any attacks of the inquisition ; and is on good terms with
the governor and chief judge, to each of whom a small
salary, by way of compliment, is allowed, out of a con-
tribution levied, by the factory, on the freight of goods
from England, and on wine exported by them. This
contribution is authorized, in part, by an act of the Bri-
tish parliament, and partly by an internal regulation of
the factory, and serves to support such British” seamen,
as happen to be left through sickness, or any other acci-

dent, on the island, as well as to pension such of its own
VOL. I. L

73

 
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Madeira.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

body, as shall have, through misfortunes, declined in
their circumstances. |

The commercial houses in Madeira are all open for
the reception of the passengers, stopping for refresh-
ments there, in their way to Asia or America, if they
bring the slightest introduction from any friend in Eu-
rope; and when the ships arrive in fleets with many
passengers, there is a continued round of entertainments
and festivity. The houses are spacious in proportion.
Hospitality of this kind, so little known in crowded
European cities, at the same time that it brings business
to the merchant, is peculiarly grateful to strangers land-
ing from a voyage ; and often an intimacy quickly ensues
between the host and guests, to be suddenly, however,
broken off by a call announcing the departure of the
ships; and with little likelihood of being renewed, as
Madeira lies far out of the track of the same persons on
their return home.

Amongst the food most relished at Madeira, is the
hog. These animals are permitted to range wild amid
the mountains, when young, after being marked by
their respective owners. They feed on nutritious roots,
frequently of the fern; and are afterwards hunted and
caught by dogs.

In the neighbouring isle of Porto Santo, partridges,
with which that island abounds, are caught alive by
EMBASSY TO GHINA.

the inhabitants, stationing themselves round where the
covies spring, and chasing them on all sides, until the
birds, alarmed wherever they attempt to rest, are at
length exhausted with fatigue, and suffer themselves to
be taken by their pursuers.

No noxious animal is known to exist in Madeira ;
no serpents, whether venomous or innocent ; no hares,

or foxes; no oysters or herrings on the coast; other

fish not rare. But the greatest consumption among the
poor is of the salted cod, imported from America. Its
excessive use contributes, it is supposed, together with
other bad provisions, to the scorbutic eruptions on the
skin, so common among the lower orders of the people
here. They are much afflicted, also, with rheumatisms.
The middle and higher classes are subject to paralytic
affections, supposed to be occasioned by indolence, re-
pletion, and want of sufficient exercise. The small-pox
is said to be most dangerous in summer. Inoculation
is rare on account of religious scruples. Intermittent
fevers are not known upon the island, where, indeed,
there are no marshes to produce them. The country is
too hilly, and high winds are too frequent, to admit
the stagnation of noxious vapours. The gusts, coming
down the mountains upon the town of Funchal, are so
violent as sometimes to unroof the houses; to prevent
which, recourse is had to the awkward shift of placing
heavy stones upon the tiles, without attending to the

75

Madeira.

 
76

Madeira.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

danger of their rolling off upon the people in the streets.
This peril, or any other, does not, however, deter gal-
lants from giving, according to the custom of the mother
country, nightly s serenades under the latticed windows

of the fair.

The town, notwithstanding the advantage of streams
running down the streets, is not kept clean. It is, in
other respects, improving. An almeyda, or mall, with
handsome rows of trees, has been lately finished there,
through the influence of the present governor. He,
sometimes, has encouraged other buildings, by procur-
ing subscriptions for that purpose, from the principal
Portugueze inhabitants, as well as the foreign merchants;
in the payment of which the latter, only, are found
punctual. te

The town is said to contain about ition thousand
peonle, The population and cultivation of the country
are upon the increase. The seasons, however, are un-
certain, and the crop, sometimes, fails. The expense of
tillage thus brings the farmer, occasionally into debt;
but the laws of the country, tho they seize the property
of debtors, do not retain their persens in confinement.

The culture of the sugar cane, as more congenial to
tropical climates, is in a great degree abandoned in
Madeira. The cane grows here to the height of about
eight feet, and in form resembles a common reed, with
a jointed | stem, and leaves springing from the joints.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

77

The middle of the stem furnishes the best and sweetest Miadelrn)

juice. There were also a few trees of the true cinnamon,
with three-ribbed scented leaves, and a thin fragrant
bark.

In an excursion to the eastern part of the island, by
some gentlemen of the Embassy, from Funchal, the
road was found, in the beginning, to be steep and
craggy up the hills. Afterwards it was confined to a
narrow path, bounded on one side by a perpendicular
rock, and open on the other to a dreadful precipice.
The path is, indeed, in many parts impassable, except
to those who go on foot, or ride on mules well trained
to travel over it, and who are perfectly sure-footed.
The party arrived, at length, upon an open plain,
adorned in many places with the flowering myrtle and
box tree, growing wild, and the whortleberry shrub,
which, tho in England it does not exceed in height the
diminutive heath growing in its neighbourhood, is here
become a bush of no inconsiderable size. At the east
end of the island they saw the crater of an extinct vol-
cano, about four hundred yards in diameter, around the
sides and in the bottom of which, were scattered frag-
ments of the lava. In the rainy season the waters had
lodged in the bottom of this crater; but it was at this
time dry, and almost entirely covered with the herb
penny royal.

To Doctor Gillan it appeared that ¢ there had been

 
78

Madeira.
———

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘“ several craters in the island, nd that eruptions had

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taken place from them at various and very distant
intervals. This was particularly manifest at a place
near the Brazen-head, where might easily be counted
twelve different eruptions of lava from a neighbouring
crater. The strata, or layers of lava, were all distin-
guished from each other by the following regular
arrangement : first, the bottom part was hard solid
lava, scientifically termed, compact lava; secondly,
over the layer of compact lava, lay a layer of cellular
lava; thirdly, next came the scoriz, partaking of the
nature of pumice stones; and, lastly, the volcanic
ashes. The second eruption lay arranged in the same
order above the first; and every other, to the twelfth
eruption.

‘“ A deep excavation furnished in one place an op-
portunity of observing, that the bottom rock, on
which the first layer of compact lava rested, was
chiefly an iron ore, composed of calx, or mineral of
iron and of clay. From which circumstances it was
inferred, that this rock had never been exposed to
any high degree of heat; otherwise the iron would
have been fused, and, by its specific gravity, would
have descended to the lowest part, and left the loose
clay upon the surface: and, also, that the layers of
superincumbent lava had flowed from a crater of a
date more recent than the formation of the ore. It
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

would be difficult to conceive how these appearances
could have been produced, had the whole island,
originally, been formed by volcanic fire, and thrown
up from the bottom of the ocean. It contains, indeed,
much matter which has not undergone, or, at least,

«« bears no marks of, the action of fire. Beside the iron

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ore, already mentioned, quartz undecomposed and
very compact has been in several places found, and
high up the hills.

‘“ The chain of the highest mountains of Madeira has
hardly any volcanic appearance. The clouds enve-
lope, frequently, their tops, and from them descend
all the streams and rivulets of the island. Their
antiquity is marked by the deep chasms or gulfs
they have formed, in their descent, between the
ridges of the rocks, during the long lapse of time
they have continued to flow. In the beds of these

““ rivulets are found pebbles of various sizes, and large

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rounded masses of silex, such as are usually found in
the beds of many similar torrents in the Alps. The
soil, also, of the fields and pasturage grounds appears
exactly the same as those of the continent, where no
volcanic fire has ever been suspected. It is likewise
to be observed, that no lava of a glassy nature has
been discovered in Madeira, nor any perfect pumice

‘¢ stone: circumstances, which both indicate, that not

66

the highest degree of heat had been suffered here;

 

79

Madeira.

 
80

Madeira.

RS

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

““ but it is probable that the bay or beach of F unchal is’
« a segment of a large crater, the exterior part of which
‘“ has sunk into the sea; for, in the first place, the
‘“ shingles or blue stones upon the beach are all of
‘“ compact lava; secondly, tempestuous weather throws

-~

““ always upon the shore larger masses of the same blue
‘“ lava stone, and, also, a quantity of cellular lava, ap-
““ proaching to pumice stone in texture, but much hea-
‘ vier, and not fibrous ; and lastly, the Loo rock, and
‘“ landing place opposite to it, to the westward of Fun-
‘“ chal bay, as well as that on which the Fort St. Jago
‘“ is constructed, are evidently perpendicular fragments
‘“ of the edges of the crater, which have hitherto resisted
‘“ the action of the sea, by having been better supported,
‘“ or having more closely adhered together, tho much
worn by the violence of the surge. They bear not
the least resemblance to the neighbouring rocks a
‘“ little within shore.”

As far, indeed, as every external appearance and
every examination into the bowels of the earth can
warrant a reasonable conjecture, the body of the island
of Madeira may be considered as the summit of a pri-
mary mountain, from whence, at several subsequent
periods, volcanic matter was exploded ; and the smaller
islands of Porto Santo and the Desertas were, originally,
joined to it; but have, in the variety of convulsions
which nature has undergone, been separated from it;

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: The rocky shore of the island of Madeira, and the

violent surge, constantly beating on it, form a natural

"EMBASSY TO CHINA.

. defence against invasion. What art has added at the
capital, which extends three quarters of a mile along
the beach, and nearly half a mile in depth, consists, as
Captain Parish observed, “in four small forts. One

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66

situate at the castern extremity of the beach of Fun-
chal, with a perpendicular height rising immediately
in its rear. This fort stands so low as to be exposed
to the fire of shipping; altho an opportunity offered
of occupying an height close to it, where might be
erected a very commanding work. This fort is called
St. Jago. That of St. Lorenco, within two hundred

yards of the western extremity of the town, is an’

irregular work, whose greatest length is about one
hundred yards, and its breadth nearly as much. It
has three small bastions and a battery toward the sea,
and flanking the beach. This is occupied as the resi-

¢ dence of the governor. A third, called Peak castle, 1s

situate at the north-west angle of the town, upon a
hill, distant about half a mile from the shore. Itisvery
difficult of access from the southward; but if the hill
above it were once gained, no formidable resistance
could be expected from it, as it is completely over-

locked. The fourth fort stands upon the Loo rock,

VOL, 1. : M

81

 
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Madeira.

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CERRINA RAS

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

« higher than the largest ships, but by no means suf-
«« ficiently so, to warrant the disposition made upon its
¢« summit. The guns are crowded together en barbette ;
¢¢ and the hitle parapet, over which they look, appears
‘¢ unequal to resist a cannon shot.

«« The beach may further be defended by a direct
«“ line of musquetry from a low built wall, on which a
“« few guns are mounted at intervals, and which has
«« occasional projections that afford small flanks. This
““ line appears inadequate for defence, when troops are
«« covered, in their landing, by men of war; but the
‘“ constant surge, upon the beach, would prove a power-
«« ful assistant in obstructing the management of boats
“ in an attempt to land. It is said that a very conve-
““ nient landing-place may be found about two miles
« to the westward of Funchal bay, round the Pico de
““ Cruz; perhaps at Praya. From hence two roads lead
«« directly to Funchal; one ascending the hill for a short
«¢ distance, then descending into the valley under the
¢« Peak castle, from which it is enfiladed. The other
« keeps the shore, and would, perhaps, be preferred, as |
‘« less exposed to the fire of the Peak castle, and as being
« sheltered, in a great degree, by the intervening build-
“¢ ings, from the fire of St. Lorenco.

‘« The line wall, extending from the sea to the height
«« on which is situated Peak castle, is not of a bet-
« ter construction than that of the beach, and, being
4

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

¢« destitute of cannon, would make but a feeble resist-
““ ance. The Peak castle seems to afford the principal
““ defence. It is well built, and in tolerable repair. Its
““ walls are of a considerable height ; but it has no
‘“ ditch ; and it is completely commanded from the rear.
‘“ About twelve guns are mounted on it, of different
““ calibers and constructions, generally very old guns
‘““ of English make. Such, too, are all the cannon of
‘“ the place; and their carriages are quite out of repair.
““ Most of the merlons are of stone, generally from two
¢¢ and a half to three feet thick. In the Peak castle there
‘“ 1s a small armory, containing about one hundred and
‘“ fifty stand of arms, and three brass field pieces of Eng-
¢« lish construction.

‘“ The forces on the island are, of regulars one hun-
*“ dred and fifty artillery, and as many infantry; with
““ two thousand militia, who are occasionally under

““ arms. They are formed into two battalions, and are

‘“ obliged to clothe themselves in uniforms: also, ten
‘“ thousand irregular militia, who are not so clothed or
‘“ exercised; but who, on consideration of their being

‘“ highways, to take charge of the signals, and to do
‘“ duty in the garrisons. They are divided into three
“ districts, each commanded by a colonel; and subdi-

““ vided into companies, with a captain and lieutenant
tio each.”

at no expence on that account, are obliged to repair

83

Madeira.
RA
84

Madeira.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

The regular troops are partly composed of natives of
Angola, a Portugueze settlement on the coast of Africa.

They are pressed into the service from among the most

idle and disorderly inhabitants of the place. Angola is,
as ‘well as Madeira, one of the vast number of the con-

‘quests achieved, or discoveries and settlements made,
- in Africa, Asia, and America, by the subjects of one of

the smallest and weakest kingdoms now in Europe; but
under the auspices of the most enterprizing princes that
history has recorded. These remaining possessions are
so scattered throughout the ocean, that there will be yet
occasion to stop at some of them, in the course of the
present voyage.

It is necessary for ships bound on a distant expedi-
tion, especially men of war, whose crews are so much
more numerous than those of merchant vessels, to touch,
on account of health, occasionally, at different places on
their route, in order to procure fresh meat and vegetables
for the people, and to recruit the stock of fresh water,
and of wood for fuel. These objects were attained for
the Lion and Hindostan, at Madeira, within a single

‘week. The Jackall tender, which lost their company

in the Channel, had not, indeed, yet joined them; but
the Embassador was desirous to pursue his route with-
out loss of time. His Excellency and the gentlemen of
the Embassy, intent upon the object of arriving soon in
China, quitted, with less regret, their amusements, and
EMBASSY TO CHINA. as 85

acquaintance, and the continuation of their Inquiries, Madeira,
in Madeira. And, instructions being left for the Jackall =
to proceed without delay to Port Praya in the island of

St. Jago, they embarked from Funchal on the eighteenth

of October, 1792. :
86

Passage to
Teneriffe.
RS

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

CHAPTER IV.

PASSAGE TO TENERIFFE; TO ST. JAGO. NOTICES OF THOSE
ISLANDS.

Orrosite to, and not far from, the coast of Africa,
are several clusters of islands, and of rocks, besides those
mentioned in the preceding chapter, situate in different
degrees of latitude, and near enough to the continent to
be, by theorists, supposed to have, at a vastly remote
period, been joined to it; and they may still be con-
sidered as appendages, in some sort, of it.

The first cluster, that occurs in a southerly course
from Madeira, consists of little more than rocks, called
the Salvages, which are carefully to be avoided. Within
one day's farther sail, lie those islands which are ge-
nerally understood to be what the ancients called the
Fortunate Isles, from the abundant productiveness of
the soil, as well as the salubrity and delightfulness of
the climate. They have since changed that significant
appellation, tho without losing their good qualities, to
that of the Canary Islands; and they now belong to the
crown of Spain.

Next to them in succession come, tho at a considerable
distance, the Cape Verde islands, so called from their
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

vicinity to a continental cape of that name ; which cape

87

Passage to
Teneriffe.

and islands are subject to Portugal. One of these is St. ———===

Jago, where, according to Sir Erasmus Gower’s direc-
tions for the Jackall tender, she was to follow him; and
in order to allow her more time to overtake him there,
as well as for the purpose of procuring a supply of better
wine for the seamen of the Lion, than Sir Erasmus could
get in Madeira at the contract price, he determined to
touch, in his way to St. Jago, at the town of Santa Cruz
in the island of Teneriffe, one of the Canaries.

The course thither was due south, sometimes, and
always southerly. In this course the weather was sen-
sibly growing warmer ; and the passengers and crews,
tho in respect of time approaching to the winter months,
felt as if winter were flying from them. The winds,
which hitherto since the ships left England, as well as
there, were variable, began gradually to partake of that
steady and uniform direction from the eastward, which
denote the regular trade winds, so contrary to those
which are the emblem of change.

The effect of the wind’s impulsion upon ships is
known to be measured by the simple contrivance of a
thin, flat and triangular piece of wood, which conti-
nuing motionless in the sea wherever it is thrown,
whence it is called a log, marks, by the celerity of the
ship’s receding from it, how quickly she is driven by
the wind. If a greater progress be found to have been
88

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Passageto made, than is enoind by this admeasurement, the dif-

Teneriffe.

 

ference proves a current or progressive motion of the
sea, independently of the agitation of its waves, which,
from whatever cause it may proceed, is found frequently
to take place. Sir Erasmus Gower observed, in pro-
ceeding to Teneriffe, a constant current setting to the
southward, at the rate of a third of a mile an hour, equal
to twenty-two miles in the distance between that island
and Madeira. Ju
Captain Mackintosh, of the Hindostan, ¢ who had
““ made twenty passages in this route, generally experi-
‘“ enced a current from the thirty-ninth degree of lati-
‘“ tude to that of the Canaries. In this part of the ocean
‘“ he formerly found, from repeated and accurate obser-
‘“ vations, that this current set three degrees hifty mi-
“ nutes east-south- -east. He found it strongest opposite

to the entrance into the Mediterranean, or Straits of

‘“ Gibraltar; and in one voyage, the current was com-
““ puted by his time-keeper to set about forty miles a
‘““ day. This current inclines more southerly as it ap-
‘ proaches to the Canaries. It strikes on the coast of
‘“ Barbary, and takes, about Cape Bojador, different and
‘“ opposite directions, near in shore, one part running
‘“ to the northward towards the Mediterranean, and the
¢ other to the southward, along the coast, towards the
«« Equator.”

On the twentieth of October the island of Teneriffe
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

was perceived by the people of the Lion, appearing
through the haze. The ships did not approach the land
till the afternoon of the next day, and it was found that
the island, when first observed, was eighteen leagues
‘distant from the ships. The Peak, or utmost top of Te-
neriffe, vying in altitude with the highest lands of the
ancient continent, did not appear, as the ships ap-
proached from the north-east, to answer to the idea of
that lofty eminence, which the imagination was pre-
pared to find. The towering hills, indeed, which are
close to it, on that side, took away from its apparent
height ; but a passenger on board the Lion, remembering
to have seen it, from sea, on the opposite or south-west
side of the island, describes it as rising perpendicularly
from the ocean, marking its elevation by three successive
ranges of light clouds, like streaks across it, one above
another, between each of which it was distinctly per-
ceptible, until, at last, it hid its summit in the upper-
most of them.

Sir Erasmus Gower observes, that ‘ the north-east of
«« Teneriffe, called Punto de Nago, appeared, at about
«“ four leagues distance, to be a steep bluff point, very
“ like the Brazen-head going into Funchal, except that
«jt is higher. The land, to the north or north-west, was
““ rocky and very irregular, with perpendicular peaks,
“ and three rocky islands, of a middling height, de-
“ tached; near a mile, from the main land. When the

VOL. I. N

89

Passage to
Teneriffe.

 
90

Passage to

Teneriffe,

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘“ ship was nearly abreast of the north-east end of the
““ island, its southern extremity was perceived sloping
““ very gradually to a low point, known by the name
‘« of Punto Prieta. The island, called the Grand Canary,
““ was seen lying to the south; and, to the south-east, the
““ road and town of Santa Cruz, in Teneriffe, seven or
““ eight miles from Punto de Nago. Tho that point
« looked like a rugged rock, the other hills had trees
“ and verdure to their very tops.” Sir Erasmus Gower
mentioned, that ¢¢ the Lion anchored in twenty fa-
‘ thoms, the south-east point of the island open, a
«« sail’s breadth, with the castle point bearing south-
‘“ west by west, and the north-east end of the island
““ east by north half north, distance off shore about one

=~

‘“ quarter of a mile.

¢ The anchoring ground is, in general, very bad. It
is advisable, therefore, for ships that call at this place,
“« in the winter months, merely for the purchase of re-
«“ freshments, not to come to an anchor ; but to stand off
““ and on, sending a boat on shore, to go through the ne-
«“ cessary forms with the governor, and to order the ne-

““ cessary supplies to be put on board. The little addi-

€

~

“¢ tional trouble, and seeming inconvenience of this mode,
«are sufficiently made up by the preservation of the ca-

‘“ bles, the safety ofthe ship, and exemption from anxiety.
« Even in the summer months it is necessary to buoy

¢¢ the cables, and to moor with as little cable as possible.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘« The place 1s defended by batteries and a line of mus-
‘¢ quetry towards the sea. The shore is fenced with rocks
‘“ and large stones; and the surge is constantly so high
““ as to render it almost inaccessible to boats. There is
‘“ a good mole or pier, projecting into the sea, where
‘“ boats may land in all seasons; at its extremity is a

€

-~

battery of four brass guns. The pier 1s likewise de-
““ fended by a well built square fort, which appears in
‘“ good condition. About eighty yards to the southward
“ of the pier 1s a creek among the rocks, where goods
‘“ are landed in mild weather. There are forts and
¢« small batteries to the northward and southward of the
‘“ mole, extending half a mile each way. They are all
‘“ of them close to the sea shore. The force of each is
« from two to four guns. The militia consists of all
‘“ persons capable of bearing arms in the island. The
‘“ regular troops, including artillery, do not exceed three
“ hundred men.” |

Beside the defences of art, and those already men-
tioned to be furnished by nature, another arises from
the evident danger to which hostile ships must be ex-
posed, as the wind is scarcely ever favourable to get
away from the land, and escape the fire of the batteries
on shore, in case of failure of success. To this danger
did the gallant Admiral Blake, in the desire of doing
his country service, render himself liable, in a war
with Spain, in 1657, when he attacked a fleet of Spanish

91

Teneriffe.
=e
92

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Teneriffe, galleons, lying in this road, nearly equal to his own in

 

strength, independently of the powerful protection from

- the shore. Tho he actually succeeded in destroying the
whole of the enemy's ships, and, by a sudden and un-
common change of wind, was enabled to bring all his own
off safe, it is difficult to view the scene of action, and
consider the circumstances, generally, occurring there,
without joining to the admiration of the bold attempt and
successful event, some portion of the anxiety which is
felt for a peril still impending.

sc

€6

-

¢

=

cc

66

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=

€¢
6c
6¢
66
€¢

€¢

““ The latitude of the road of Santa Cruz was ob-

served, by Sir Erasmus Gower, to be twenty-eight

degrees twenty-eight minutes north ; its longitude,
by the time-keeper, sixteen degrees twenty-six mi-
nutes west of Greenwich, and the variation of the
compass seventeen degrees thirty-five minutes to the
westward of the pole. The tide rises perpendicularly
six feet.

“ According to the regulations of the port, there
should be no communication between the ships and
shore, from the setting to the rising of the sun. It is,
also, prohibited to fire the morning or evening gun
on board; tho it was done by a small French frigate,
then lying in the road, under the national colours.
English men of war do not salute, because the Spa-
niards are forbid to make a return. Beef, mutton,

pork, goats, poultry, fruits, and vegetables are very
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

93

6 good and reasonable; and, for ships bound to the Tenerife.

‘« southward and requiring refreshments, this place has
‘“ many advantages over Madeira; particularly the wine,
““ to be had by contract for the ship's company, is of a
¢ much stronger quality, and at a much cheaper rate.
‘“ A pipe, containing one hundred and twenty gallons,
‘¢ does not exceed ten pounds.”

The shipping of the necessary supply of wine, for
the Lion, was likely to take up two or three days; and
several of the passengers from that ship, and some pas-
sengers and officers of the Hindostan, took the oppor-
tunity of this delay to go on shore, in order to visit
as much of the island as they could. The town of
Santa’ Cruz, which is pleasantly situated, did ‘not pre-
sent to them the crowds of people, or scenes of business
perceptible in Funchal ; but it appeared better laid out,
more open, cleaner, and more comfortable. The well-
built pier stretched out into the sea, the conveniences
contrived for safe and easy landing near it, the hand-
some almeyda, or mall, along the quay, shaded with se-
veral rows of trees, the fountain adorned with marble
statues in the square, all apparently of late construction,
denote a government attentive to the improvement of
the place. ‘The hills, above Santa Cruz, are neither so
high, nor overhang so immediately the town, as those
behind Funchal, which, as being the last place that
the present party visited, was now more readily the

 
94

Teneriffe.
cr —

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

object of comparison in their minds. They found the
walks and rides, in the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz,
more level and agreeable; they seemed to breathe a
lighter, purer air than usual, and felt they were in a for-
tunate island. Of these feelings there could not be a
more lively instance than in the concurring expressions
of regret, which fell from every mouth, that Mr. West,
in whose recovery every one took interest, had not come
on, to take the benefit of a climate so seemingly superior
to that of Madeira where he staid.

Mr. Hickey, painter to the Embassy, ascended the

~ ¢* craggy mountains to the northward of the town, in hope

““ of getting an advantageous view of the Peak, but was
«« prevented by the clouds with which it was wholly
‘“ enveloped. The rocks upon those hills appeared to
““ be volcanic ; and among them a variety of natural caves
¢¢ were formed, which serve for places of occasional rest,
¢-and shelter, to the labouring people in the season of
¢¢ cultivation. - The culture is carried up to the tops of
¢¢ these mountains, the soil being supported, in suc-
‘¢ cessive stages, by walls or heaps of stone. A peasant
‘“ whom Mr. Hickey met, with a fowling-piece in his

*¢ hand, and with whom he conversed in Spanish, in-

‘“. formed him, that the produce of these mountains was
¢ corn, beans, and a grass which served as fodder for
‘¢ the cattle. At this season nothing remained, except
¢“'dry stubble. In the adjacent hills, some very singular
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

¢ combinations appeared of craggy heaps and cliffs, and,
« below, a tremendous precipice. A variety of wild
«« odoriferous herbs were scattered around ; and some, of
«« a powerful and forbidding smell. La Figuera de India,
‘“ called commonly in English, the prickly pear tree,
¢« bears here a valuable fruit, not easily, indeed, to be
« plucked or eaten. But the obliging peasant, already
«« mentioned, overcame the difficulty by means of a tuft
«« of grass, with which he enveloped the fruit, to guard
““ his fingers from the prickles with which it'was co-
‘“ yvered; and, cutting cautiously away the rind, laid
‘“ open the pulp, which was very agreeable to the taste,
““ uniting the flavour of the fig, the winter burgundy
pear, and the water melon. The peasant, in the course

-~
oo

€

«

of conversation, mentioned, as a received opinion,
«« that the island contained rich mines of gold; but that
« the King of Spain had ordered the search for them
“ to be discontinued, lest, as the peasant added, they
‘“ should prove a temptation to the English to render
*¢ themselves masters of the island.”

The principal party from the ships proceeded another
way into the country; and after a ride of a few miles,
upon the slope of a considerable hill, arrived at the ca-
pital of the island, called St. Ghristophé de Laguna,
where, however, no lagoon or lake remains. Here still
are held the courts of justice, tho the governor now re-
sides at Santa Cruz. The chief inhabitants of the prisons

95

Teneriffe.

 
96

Teneriffe.
—

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

of the capital were young females, of the lower classes of
society, who were accused of incontinency ; the tempta-
tions to which crime the softness of the climate renders

them little capable of resisting, notwithstanding the

rigour with which it is’ pursued by the ecclesiastical
jurisdiction.

In the markets was a profusion of red grapes, scarcely
any white, tho the wine, exported from Teneriffe, be
generally of the latter colour. The season of the vin-
tage is always that of cheerfulness and activity; and the
people, in the streets, seemed to partake of such a dis-
position. This city is situate on an eminence, in a fertile
plain of considerable extent. Beside vines, it bears
wheat, Indian corn, potatoes, and a species of bean not
unlike a lupin. From grounds, still higher, water is
conveyed to a variety of fountains in Laguna, as at Santa
Cruz, in an aqueduct composed of wooden troughs, and
supported by poles fixed into the earth.

To the plain, above mentioned, succeeded a ridge of
hills, of gentle ascent, from the summit of which were
easily traced the windings of a pleasant valley, stretch-
ing to the westward, along the feet of a range of hills
that separate it from the sea coast. The town of Tico-
ront¢, and numerous little villages, formed a scere agree-
able and picturesque. The bosoms of the mountains
were all well cultivated; and their more rugged sides
were chiefly covered with the spontaneous plants of
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

warm regions, such as the botanists call the Cacalia
Kleinia, the Agave Americana, the Cactus Tuna, beside
others of little ornament or use. | bide ys

A heavy shower of rain overtook the travellers, amid
these mountains, a little before noon; and one of the
inhabitants of a village, where they took shelter, told
them that a similar shower falls about the same hour
there almost every day throughout the year.

From thence the party descended towards a rich and
extensive vale, lying between an amphitheatre of moun-
tains and the sea. At the bottom of these mountains,
out of which rises the Peak of Teneriffe, is the villa or
city, and about three miles distant, on the sea coast, is
the puerto or seaport, of Orotava. The first is inha-
bited, chiefly, by persons of landed property in that
neighbourhood ; and at the second is carried on a con-
siderable degree of commerce, principally for the ex-
portation of wine. It is, chiefly, as at Madeira, in the
hands of a few British commercial houses, which import,
in return, the manufactures of Great Britain.

~ The consumption of British goods, in the remotest
places, among the Spaniards, as well as the Portugueze,
easily accounts for the vast demand from the warehouses
of London, and seems to render that capital, in a com-
mercial sense, the metropolis of the world.

From Orotava the ascent of the mountain, towards
the Peak of Teneriffe, is generally attempted. The time

YOL. 1. 0

97

Teneriffe.
gS
98

Teneriffe.
————

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

of the year, late in October, was, indeed, unfavourable
for such an undertaking. The cold, in the mountains,
at this season, was described by the natives, in the
neighbourhood, to be intolerable ; and snow and hail
now fell frequently with such suddenness and violence,
as to overwhelm those who were exposed to them. Still,
however, the ascent was not declared to be impossible.
If the two succeeding days, at the expiration of which
it was necessary to join the ships at Santa Gruz, should
luckily prove fair, and the weather calm, the object, it
was hoped, might be attained. The opportunity, to the
same persons, would not probably recur ; and they de-
termined to try their chance: deeming the progress they
might make, however inconsiderable it should prove,
towards the summit of the mountain, a gratification su-
perior to what any other excursion could afford.

‘The morning of the twenty-third of October was se-
rene, and promised a good day. Fahrenheit’s thermo-

‘meter, near the sea side, was at seventy-six degrees in

the shade. The huge cone of the Peak, towering above
a bed of fleecy clouds, seemed to overhang the city
of Orotava, tho at the distance of several miles. The
party set out, about noon, and proceeded for some time
through a pleasant vale, mostly covered with vineyards,
which produce a sweet and agreeable wine. They soon
began to ascend the mountain, along the sloping side of
a deep valley, almost entirely covered with a grove of
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

99

large chesnut trees. On the edge of the mountain were Tenerife.

thinly scattered a few solitary huts, partly hid in the

~ thick shrubbery which surrounded them. After passing

the valley of chesnut trees, the party presently arrived
at the summit of the first, called the Green, mountain,
on which there was a level plain of considerable extent,
covered with heath growing several feet high, and in-
terspersed with myrtle, laurel, and whortleberry shrub
(vaccinium), all in great luxuriance ; but no cultivation
was attempted there by man ; nor indeed, thereabouts,
was any human habitation.

At the termination of this plain commenced a second
mountain very different, in appearance, from the for-
mer. Its steep sides were craggy and barren. The road
lay along a dangerous ascent on the brink of precipices.
Little verdure appeared but what was afforded by the
Spanish broom and a cytisus, which seemed to thrive in
the rocky surface of lava with which this mountain
was almost covered. A few pine trees were thinly scat-
tered on its sides. Several wild goats were found there-
abouts, being the only quadruped observed to dwell
upon those mountains.

The party continued to ascend, by rugged and narrow
paths, depending chiefly for their safety on the sure-
footedness of their mules, till they arrived at a watering
place in the hollow of a huge rock, under the shade of
a solitary pine. Notwithstanding the real and apparent
100

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Tenerife. perils of this road, one of the attendants of the party, an

 

artificer belonging to the Embassy, deserves to have his
name (of Thibaut, a native of Turin,) recorded, for the
instance, he afforded, of inflexible constancy, in ad-
hering to the instructions he received, tho excessively
difficult to execute, in such a situation: as a mathema-
tical instrument maker, and acquainted with the nature
of barometers, he was charged with the care of carrying
one, intended for the purpose of observing, by the de-
gree of descent of the quicksilver in the tube freed from
air, how much the height of the column of the atmo-
sphere, over such part of the same fluid as was exposed
to its pressure, was diminished by the elevation of the
mountain above the horizon ; and, consequently, ascer-
taining the exact measure of such elevation, or the
mountain’s height. It was necessary, in order to pre-
serve, for this purpose, the barometer from injury, to
hold it in a steady, uniform manner. Thibaut, with
his attention fixed entirely to this object, holding the
instrument with one hand against his breast, and the
bridle loosely with the other, suffered his mule to follow
her own pace, without changing his posture, or moving
the barometer (whatever were his fears or dangers), on
any alarm or accident that occurred.

In an account that is given of the last preceding
Journey up these hills, with a philosophical apparatus,
mention is made of two barometers, which had succes-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

sively been provided, having been broken before they
could be used. The present party, by Thibaut’s steadi-
ness, were enabled to find that they had ascended, late
in the afternoon, near six thousand feet above the town
they quitted in the morning. Even such an elevation,
tho the weather then was hazy, enlarged considerably
their prospect, and gave them, as it were, a greater
command of land and sea. Some little time before,
when the sun was bright, and already behind the Peak,
the shadow of the latter, perfectly formed on the ocean,

101

Teneriffe.
Pm

and gradually lengthened, and extending to the horizon, |

formed a picture, not more uncommon than grand and

striking, to the beholders. But now the mountain .

began to be overcast with clouds; from the hollows
which intervened between the basis of the great cone
and the second mountain, on which the travellers then
stood, arose, rapidly, as if bursting from deep and vast
boiling cauldrons, various impetuous gusts of wind,
forcing and combating with each other, and seeming
to forbid any approach towards them. On this part of
the mountain the ascent was by no means steep, but the
ground was. strewed with volcanic matter; not, how-
ever, of that spongy texture on which vegetation, in the
form of a lichen, in so few years, appears on the sides
of mount Vesuvius. |

Throughout this second mountain, were excavations
resembling small craters of extinct volcanoes. Itbecame
102

Teneriffe.
RRR AAS A Re

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

now more difficult to trace out the usual path, as the
evening was set in. The cold began to be unpleasant,
the thermometer having fallen twenty-six degrees. The
guides and muleteers proposed to halt here for that
night, at least: deeming it dangerous to move on. Pro-
mises and menaces were used to engage them to proceed.
They did so for another hour, in which, however, little
progress was effected. It then began to rain, the cold
too become more intense, and the wind more violent.
The travellers were yet, however, distant from their in-
tended resting place, usually known by the name of La
Estancia dos Ingleses, the resting place of the English.
Thither they were anxious to arrive, in order to attain,
the next forenoon, if practicable, the summit of the cone.
But the guides, who perceived a tempest then approach-
ing, in which they declared the unsheltered traveller,
infallibly, must perish, insisted on stopping where
they were, under the brow of a projecting rock, which
diverted, in some degree, the current of the wind. One
of the party tried the experiment of proceeding on his
mule, as far as he was able, up the hill; but soon find-
ing it was utterly impossible to resist the impetuosity
of the storm, returned to his companions, in order to
provide for the night, in the manner the least uncom-
fortable in their power. They had been supplied with
abundance of refreshments from Orotava; but no tent
was to be found there to rest in upon the mountain.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

10

e

J

This circumstance, however unpleasant, could notdeter Tenerife.

them from the undertaking; they had now no other
resource than that of strewing the bare ground, near
them, with leafy branches of the Spanish broom, by
way of beds, to sleep on. There was little shelter
from the wind, and none against the rain, which, tho
not violent, was frequent. The air also was keen and
cold: the thermometer at forty-five degrees ; but the
branches of the cytisus, growing on this dreary moun-
tain, proved to be excellent fuel, and, tho green, pro-
duced, readily, a blaze. The wind, indeed, which blew
in eddies, drove the flame, sometimes, to a distance from
the travellers’ resting place, who lost, thus, its influence
in their favour; and, sometimes, turned it to their faces,
so nearly as to scorch them. At times, however, they
had opportunities of contemplating, as they lay under
the grand canopy of heaven, the aweful scene around
them. The moon, then in its second quarter, shone, at
intervals, very brilliant ; the zenith happened to be
clear, towards which the Peak upreared its high and
tapering point, and, as the eye descended down the
slanting sides of that immense cone, it perceived that
. the base was lost in black rolling clouds, which, whirl-
ing impetuously from thence into the vallies far below,
reached, at last, the ocean, over which some remained

suspended, while others seemed incorporated with its
waters.

 
104

Teneriffe.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

On the approach of day the party rose, little refreshed
bysleep, and their clothes dripping with the rain which
had fallen upon them. The summit of the mountain,
on which they stood, appeared only at a little distance,
but the weather was extremely boisterous ; and the wind
drove with violence heavy drops of rain upon them.
The point of the upper cone, or sugar-loaf, was clear ;
but the large conical frustum, which supported it, was
enveloped in thick clouds, rolling, in continued succes-
sion, along its sides, and hurled rapidly from thence
into the vallies between the hills, against which they
were impelled, and quickly condensed into rain.

Of the party some concurred with their guides in

proposing to abandon the project of going farther ; but

Doctor Gillan, Doctor Scot, Mr. Barrow, and Mr. Ha-

milton of the Hindostan, had the firmness to persevere

- in the attempt of ascending, still, as high as possible ;

while the rest turned their eyes, readily, back to Oro-
tava, except, indeed, a boy little more than eleven years
old, who, not disheartened by the sufferings of the pre-
ceding day and night, saw himself, with evident reluc-
tance, separated from his more adventurous companions,
to follow the retrograde steps of the person who had the
care of him. Of the two guides, belonging to the party,
one conducted the gentlemen going to Orotava, who,
as they descended from the mountain, which proved to
them so dreary and inhospitable, experienced a most
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

105

rapid change of climate as they approached to the genial Tenerite.

and comfortable atmosphere below: such change being
little less than if, in that short space of time, they had
suddenly been transported, from the icy coast of Green-
land, into the warm latitudes of the Pacific Ocean ; so
much quicker is the transition, with regard to its effect,
in a vertical than in an horizontal direction.

Before these travellers got to the seaport of Orotava,
they passed through the city, or upper town, of the same
name, neatly built of stone, on an irregular surface.
They took the dimensions of a remarkable dragon’s-
blood tree growing near it; to which tree any of the
same kind in Madeira, tho there thought large, were,
comparatively, but striplings. Its trunk measured, at

the height of ten feet from the ground, thirty-six feet

in girth. At the height of fifteen feet, this trunk divided
itself into about a dozen branches, sprouting regularly,
as from a centre, in an oblique direction, upwards, liké
the subdivisions of an umbelliferous plant, all of equal
dimensions, and producing, at their extremities only,
thick and spongy leaves, resembling, but much smaller
than, those of the common aloe. Concerning this tree
there was a tradition current in the island, that it ex-
isted, of no inconsiderable dimensions, when the Spa-
niardy made the conquest of Teneriffe, about three

centuries ago; and that it was then, what it still 18; a
VOL. I, P

 
106

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Tenerife. land mark, to distinguish the boundaries of landed pos-

 

sessions near it. |

The gentlemen who wished to pursue their journey
upwards, were accompanied by the second guide. This
man was one of the very few remaining of the descendants
of the Guanches, or original inhabitants, and sole posses-
sors of the island, when first invaded by the Spaniards
in the fifteenth century. He still retained some charac-
teristics of that ancient race. He was a tall, strong-boned
man, little less than six feet high, and walked erect and
firm, tho near his grand climacteric, or upwards of sixty
years of age. The lineaments of his countenance were
strongly marked; his eyebrows high and arched, his

cheek-bones prominent, his nose somewhat flattened,

“and his lips of a thickness approaching to those of the

blacks of Africa.

With this man the four gentlemen, above named,
‘“ soon gained,’ according to Mr. Barrow’s relation, ‘¢ the
‘“ summit of the mountain from whence the great cone
‘“ rose, which, being often covered with snow, pro-
““ cured, among ancient writers, the name of Nivaria
“ for the whole island. On this summit was another
‘“ extensive plain, not clothed, like the green mountain,
‘“ with perpetual verdure; but loaded with irregular
““ huge masses of black lava, scattered round: not the
““ least trace of vegetation being visible on this dreary
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘“ waste, except now and then a solitary cytisus, peeping, Teneriffe.

«« with its feeble and half-withered branches, through
<« the fissure of the rock. The violence of the wind con-
«« tinued ; the rain increased; and the very apex of the
“ Peak began to be obscured with clouds. At length,
““ it became equally difficult, for the mules, to stem the
«« current of the wind, and for the riders, to keep their
“seats. :
«¢ They already, however, had ascended about two
‘“ thousand feet above the place where they had passed
““ the night ; but now the muleteers became refractory,
““ and endeavoured to prevent any exertions for forcing
‘“ the animals to go on. The cold was piercing (the
‘“ thermometer at thirty-six degrees) and together with
«the sleet, almost took away the power of holding
« steadily the reins. In the course of this tempest, Mr.
‘« Hamilton was literally blown off his horse. Doctor
‘“ Scot, who happened to be well mounted, pushed
«boldly forward towards the basis of the cone, till he
<¢ was lost, to the rest, in the thickness of the mist.
“ Doctor Gillan endeavoured to follow; but the wind,
““ actually, forced his mule to the edge of a steep pre-
«¢ cipice, where, fortunately, she fell into a bed of
¢¢ volcanic ashes, or both must, inevitably, have gone
‘“ down the precipice, and perished. No effort could
«« afterwards, stimulate the mule to move forwards a
““ single step. Another ran under the shelter of a

107
108

Teneriffe.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

““ large mass of lava, where she equally remained im-
‘“ moveable. The resource, now left, was to tie all the
‘“ horses and mules to the neighbouring rocks (for the
‘“ muleteers and guide had already disappeared) and to
‘ proceed, on foot, along a valley, whose ascent was
‘« gradual, to the bottom of the great pyramid, from
«« whence the Peak rose, as from a second cone; but the
«« plan, after repeated efforts to proceed, soon proved
‘“ to be impracticable. The surface being a continued
““ layer of light pumice stones and ashes, the body sunk,
«« considerably, at every step, and a dust issued from
«“ the pressure, emitting a sulphureous and suffocating
‘« smell, which obstructed respiration. The tempest, at
«“ the same time, raged with augmented violence; the
‘“ thermometer was down to the freezing point ; the
‘“ drops of rain fell half congealed, and were observed

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to have a saltish taste. Under all these circumstances,
““ the difficulty of getting farther on, to persons now
exhausted, was found to be unsurmountable ; and,
having done all that was possible for them, no alter-
native remained. They went back to the place where
they left their cattle, whose faces were no sooner
turned down the hill, than they scampered away at
‘ arate as difficult to restrain, as it was before to push
“ them forward.

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““ The party, presently, got into the midst of very
‘« dense clouds, whose contents were discharged upon
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

109

«« them in torrents of heavy rain, which fell, without Tenerife.

«« intermission, during the remainder of the descent, for
«« about three hours. Soon afterwards the weather cleared
“up, and the appar past of the Peak appeared covered
““ with snow.’

They scarcely nod arrived at Orotava whisn Doctor
Gillan was obliged to take to his bed with a fever, occa-
sioned by the fatigues he had undergone ; but care and
rest, in the hospitable house of Mr. Little, soon restored
him. The other gentlemen lost the memory of their

sufferings, in the morning, by partaking of a ball with

some agreeable English and Spanish ladies, the same

evening, in Orotava. The next day the travellers re-

turned to Santa Cruz.

The excursion to the Peak, which was, at this season,

so fatiguing in the attempt, and so impracticable in the
execution, occasions much less difficulty or hardship at

another. In a manuscript account of a visit to that place,

by the same Mr. Johnstone, who is described in the
preceding chapter, as having surveyed Madeira, it is
mentioned that, being at Teneriffe, in the summer time,
and having the opportunity of providing tents and other
necessaries for such an undertaking, as well as leisure
to go through it without hurry, little was suffered in
accomplishing it. His party slept, the night before
they attained the summit of the Peak, about the spot
which terminated the labours of the succeeding travellers.
110 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Teneriffe. *¢ There,” it 1s said, ** they encamped on ground co-

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vered with pumice stone, a stream of lava on each
‘“ side ; in front, a barren plain: the island of Grand

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‘“ About four o'clock next morning, the first of August,
‘“ the moon shining bright, and the weather clear, they
‘“ began to ascend a kind of path, along the first great
““ frustum, leading to the smaller and higher Sugar-loaf.
‘“ The passage was steep and disagreeable, being covered
‘“ with pumice stone, which gave way at every step.
‘“ In about an hour they got to the Alta Vista, where it
‘“ was necessary to climb over the lava, leaping from
‘“ one large stone to another, till their arrival at the foot
‘“ of the Sugar-loaf. It was now about half past five.
‘“ The horizon, to the south-east, was very clear, and
the rising sun a beautiful object. Here they rested,
“ on a small flat, about five minutes, but did not allow
themselves to cool, the air being so very penetrating.

‘““ They then began to ascend the Sugar-loaf. This
was by much the most fatiguing part of it; it being
exceedingly steep, and wholly consisting of small
48 pumice stones, so that the foot, at every step, sunk
and slid back. They were obliged to take breath, re-
« peatedly. It was little more than six o'clock when
‘“ they got upon the summit of the Sugar-loaf. At this
“ time the clouds had gathered about a mile and a half

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

111

‘“ perpendicular below. They were thick, and had a Tenet.

““ very striking effect, appearing like an immense extent
‘“ of frozen sea, covered with innumerable hillocks of
‘“ snow, above which the islands of Grand Canary,

¢“ Palma, Gomera, and Hierro or Ferro, raised their

‘“ heads. On the sun’s getting a little higher, the clouds
‘“ dispersed, and opened to the view the coast around.
‘“ The colours, hoisted on the Peak, were distinctly
‘“ seen, by gentlemen in Orotava, through their tele-
‘‘ scopes.

‘“ The prospect from the Peak is romantic and exten-
‘“ sive, no other hill being of a height to intercept the
‘““ view. The coast is perceived all round, and a distinct
““ idea of the island formed. The north-west coast ap-
‘“ pears to be well cultivated ; but the south-east seems
“ dreary and barren. Within the summit is an exca-
‘“ vation, or cauldron, not less than eighty feet in depth,
‘“ into. which the gentlemen descended, and gathered
““ some sulphur, with which the surface is mostly co-
‘““ vered. In many parts the foot cannot rest upon
‘“ the same spot above a minute, the heat penetrating
‘“ quickly through the shoe. Smoke issues frequently
‘“ from the earth. Just under the surface is a soft red-
““ dish clay, so hot that the hand introduced into it
‘“ must instantly be withdrawn. In the cauldron the
““ sulphureous odour is very offensive ; but on the ridge
‘“ it may he easily endured.

 
112

Teneriffe.

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

““ From this place they saw the town of Santa Cruz,
and the shipping in the road, which 1s a distance, in
a direct line, of about twenty-five miles. A second

‘“ barometer was here received, to supply the place of

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another broken in the ascent. But it was found that

some of the quicksilver had escaped; and, therefore,
no dependence was to be placed on any observations
by it. They continued two hours and a half upon .
the summit of the Peak, without feeling any incon-
venience from heat or cold. Soon after sun-rise the
thermometer, in the shade, was at fifty-one degrees.
They descended the Sugar-loaf, in a few minutes,
running the whole way, which was found to be the
best mode.

« At the foot of the Peak there were several caverns,
in the midst of lava, some filled with fine water, ex-
tremely cold, and frozen at the edges of the caverns.

Others, in the winter, are filled with snow, over

which the sun never shines; and, thus, snow con-
tinues in them throughout the year. Here they re-
mained till night. ;

‘“ Mr. Johnstone, recollecting a difference of about
six miles in the calculation of the latitude, as given
by Captain Cook, and as it is laid down in the collec-
tion of requisite Tables for the Nautical Ephemeris,
was willing to ascertain the same; and, taking an ob-
servation of a fixed star, found that the latitude was
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

113

*“ within a mile of what Captain Cook had asserted it to Tenerife.

““ be. Some time before, Mr. Johnstone, when on board
‘“ ship in the offing of Orotava, took the angles, made
‘““ by a line from the horizon to the summit of the Peak,
““at two different spots, and, measuring the distance
‘“ between them by the log, determined the perpen-
‘“ dicular height of the Peak to be two thousand and
““ twenty-three English fathoms, being nearly the same
‘“ as Monsieur de Borda had calculated from a base
‘“ measured upon land. From the comparative obser-
‘“ vations of Monsieur de Borda's barometers, upon the
‘“ Peak, and by the sea side, the mountain’s height
““ came within two fathoms of the geometrical mea-
‘“ surement. Mr. Johnstone computed, likewise, the
““ distance of the Peak from the seaport of Orotava to
“ be ten thousand one hundred and eighty fathoms, or,
‘“ nearly, eleven miles and a half, bearing south forty-

“ eight degrees west. The variation of the compass was

““ sixteen degrees to the westward of the pole.”

The storm, experienced on the Peak of Teneriffe by
the present party, and which impeded their ascent at
that time, was felt severely in the roads of Santa Cruz.
‘“ The winter appeared to be there set in,” as Sir Eras-
mus Gower observes ; “but its approach was considered
““ premature by at least a month. Several merchant ves-
‘“ sels drove, or were dragged, from their anchoring
““ grounds, together with their anchors. Others parted,

VOL. I. Q

 
114

Teneriffe.
SEE TINIE

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

¢«« or broke, their cables. The Hindostan lost two an-
¢« chors, and, had the gale continued, might have been
« in danger of driving against the rocks. The Lion
‘ happened to lie, probably, in the best place; as she
« neither drove, nor did her cables suffer any injury,
““ tho no precaution had been taken to secure them.”

At Orotava the only vessel lying in the road was
obliged to slip her cable, as is the practice in bad wea-
ther there, especially when the wind blows strongly
from the northward. The road is entirely open in that
quarter ; and the surge drives with such violence against
the shore, that a boat can seldom land. The waves have
been known to break over the tops of the houses, stand-
ing at some distance from the beach; and the wine, ex-
ported from thence, is usually shipped by floating off
the pipes containing it.

There had been a convenient port, on the north-west
coast of the island, called Garrachica, until the last
eruption from the Peak in 1704, which continued, at
intervals, for two months, when by the volcanic matter
rolling down on that side of the mountain, the port was
completely filled up, and houses are now erected where
ships rode formerly at anchor.

The height of the great mountain of Teneriffe, where
the intense cold produces ice in plenty, gives the inha-
bitants, of the warmer climate below, the opportunity
of using that substance to cool the wines for their own
~ EMBASSY TO CHINA.

115

consumption. This is collected by the peasants, in Tenerife.

winter, near the summit of the Peak, and preserved, in
caves, near the Estancia dos Ingleses, where the great
cone begins to rise; from whence it is brought, in the
summer, to Orotava, and other places on the coast.
Within a mile of the seaport of Orotava is a collec-
tion of living plants from Mexico, and other parts of the
Spanish dominions in America. From hence they are
to be transplanted into Spain. It is an establishment
of some expence; and, whatever may be its success, it

shews a laudable attention, on the part of that govern-

ment, to the promotion of natural knowledge.

The exterior practices of devotion, in every depen-
dency of Spain, where the inquisition reaches, absorb,
“however, much of that leisure which might, otherwise,
be employed for the purposes of instruction. Religion
seems to be the principal business of the gentry of both
sexes. Ladies of rank are seldom seen out of their own
families, except in the churches at mass, at matins, and
at vespers. The unmarried reside in convents, and are
often cajoled to take the veil, by those who are already
nuns professed, notwithstanding the bitter repentance
which many of these feel for the vows themselves had
made.

The escape of an intended victim to devotion made
some noise, about this time, in Teneriffe. A young
lady, during her noviciate, had, by uncommon accident,

 
116

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Tenerife. the opportunity of seeing a youth, who inspired her

 

with a passion inconsistent with her former views of
religious retirement. Notwithstanding the apparent
freedom left to novices to alter their intentions, it is,

‘in fact, as unsafe as it is rare. This young novice ma-

nifested no symptoms of reluctance in pursuing her
original vocation; and preparations were made for the
aweful ceremony of taking the last solemn vow to re-
nounce the world.

On such occasions it is the custom to throw open the
gates of the convent, in order to satisfy the public, that
the ladies within them are equally at liberty to quit it
altogether, or to continue within its walls. When the
day arrived, which was to seal her doom and resign
her for ever to the cloister, her relations and friends
assembled, as is usual, to be present on the occasion.
In the crowd of the spectators was the young gentle-
man, who was disputing with heaven the fair victim.
After solemn exhortations from the pulpit, that now
the final moment was arrived, when she was to devote
herself to God, abandoning all sublunary considerations,
as well as all ties of affection or of blood, or instantly to
quit the holy place, she then inhabited, for ever, she
stretched out her hand to the youth, who advanced
quickly to receive it, and hurrying with her directly
from the church, while the priests, the nuns, her rela-
tions, and the people, stood motionless with astonish-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

117

ment, the happy pair got soon safely to a place, where Tenerife.

they were married.

The present bishop of the Canary islands resides,
usually, at the city of Palmas in Canaria. But his re-
venues, which are not less than ten thousand pounds a
year, are distributed, almost entirely, in acts of charity
and beneficence throughout all the islands. To this
humane disposition he, however, joins the rigour of
ecclesiastic discipline ; and encourages the observance
of ceremonies of piety, by offers of indulgence to those
who practise them. He, who shall kneel publicly be-
fore the shrine of San Bernardo in the square of Santa
Cruz, and repeat so many times aloud the prayers of
Pater noster and Ave Maria, may receive a dispensation
exempting him, for forty days, from many of those obli-
gations which the Spanish church, more rigid than its
parent Rome, imposes on its votaries, as a test of their
obedience, and generally exacts, under penalty of dam-
nation, in case of failure.

The observance of religious duties is little interrupted
in the Canaries by pursuits of commerce. Foreign ships
seldom touch at any of them, except Teneriffe; the pro-
duce of which is chiefly exported from Santa Cruz. It
consists, principally, in white wine, of which about
twenty-five thousand pipes annually are made in the
island. Part is sent to the Spanish settlements in South
America ; the English take off a considerable quantity,
118

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

. Tenerife. 10 return for manufactures ; and the North Americans,

 

in payment of corn, staves, horses, and tobacco. The
last article is contraband, and smuggled, chiefly, into
Ticoronté, which, from the circumstance alone of its
sandy beach, where the boats with prohibited goods can
in the night approach and leave it without difficulty or
delay, is lately increased in size, and become rich. To-
bacco or snuff is in universal use; and that, which is
legally imported, is sold by government at a profit so
enormous, that the temptation to introduce it, clandes-
tinely, is irresistible. Royal monopoly extends even
to orchilla, a weed used in dying. It is a minute vege-
table, of the lichen kind, growing chiefly upon rocks
of a loose texture, and produces a beautiful violet blue
colour.

The total net revenue of the crown, after defraying
the expences of administration, of all the Canary islands,
amounts to about sixty thousand pounds a year. The
monopolies, not the taxes, are considered to be the prin-
cipal grievance of the inhabitants. The sugar cane was
cultivated formerly among them more than it is at pre-
sent. - One sugar plantation in Teneriffe, which had
been worked by a thousand slaves, is now very much
reduced in labourers and produce.

Doctor Gillan, in his excursion through the island of
Teneriffe, remarked, ¢ that the appearances in it, for
‘“ volcanic formation and origin, are more numerous
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

19

‘“ and more striking than in Madeira. All the stones Tenerife.

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of the beach, all the ground and rocks in the neigh-
bourhood of Santa Cruz are, manifestly, volcanic.
There was abundance of compact and cellular lava;
but none of a glassy nature, or pumice, except in the
neighbourhood of the Peak. He examined the stones
in the bed of the torrent, and at the bridge built across
it, between Santa Cruz and Laguna, as well as those

which constituted the pavement of the road up the

hill. The whole were of compact lava, of the same
kind and composition as those with which the Appian
way in Italy, and the streets lately discovered of Pom-
peia, were paved, and such as are used for paving the
streets of Naples. The buildings of Santa Cruz and
of Laguna exhibited no stone of any other kind. On

inquiry it appeared that the lime, used for buildings,

was brought from some of the neighbouring islands;
no limestone being found in Teneriffe.

‘“ Every circumstance, hitherto, argued in favour of
a volcanic formation, except the form of the moun-
tains, whose irregular ridges, declivities, and ascents,
appeared very different from what mountains, pro-
duced entirely by volcanoes, usually exhibit. In the
open plain, beyond Laguna, on the Orotava side, the
soil was not in the least volcanic, but composed of
fine mould, or what is commonly called virgin earth,

‘“ a mixture of clay, vegetable earth, and sand. There

 
120

Teneriffe.

 

 

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were several deep rivulets along the side of the road.
The beds, then, happened to be dry ; and opportu-
nities offered, in two places, of observing hollows, at
least, thirty feet deep: they exhibited no volcanic
appearance whatever. Immediately under the su-

perficial soil was a layer of deep loam ; next, one of

tough clay; and all below, was an irregular mixture
of clay and sand. About two miles further on, the
hills were contiguous to the road. They consisted of
layers of indurated clay, and clay and iron ore,

similar to those discovered in Madeira. They bore no
marks of the action of fire.

‘“ About three miles nearer to Orotava, at a village
situate on the summit of a hill, the volcanic appear-
ances again began, and continued, without interrup-
tion, to that town. The stones and shining sand,
upon the beach, are all volcanic; and from thence to
the Peak every rock and stone, that lay upon the sur-
face, and the surface itself, are the pure preductions
of volcanoes. The glassy lava, the true pumice stone,
begins to be found only about the great basis of the
Peak. There is in the island no pure flint, or sand-
stone. Its mountains are of two sorts; one, evidently,
volcanic; the other, primary, and composed of indu-
rated clay, or of clay and calx of iron. In the low
plains there are layers of loose sand and soft argilla-
ceous earth.”
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

121

Teneriffe is about seventy miles in length, and its Tenerife.

mean breadth is about twenty-two miles. Its surface
amounts to one thousand five hundred and forty square
miles, having, at an average, about sixty-five persons to
every square mile. The number of acres is nine hun-
dred and eighty-five thousand six hundred, which is,
upon an average, about ten acres to every individual in
it, the number of inhabitants being calculated to be
nearly one hundred thousand ; of whom, however, there
is, annually, a drain to the Spanish colonies in South
America, to increase the number of foreign settlers
there, for the purpose of counterbalancing the multi-
tudes, still remaining, of the natives, and for support-
ing the dominion of the Spaniards over them. The
poor of Teneriffe are persuaded easily to migrate, as the
proprietors of the land do not give them sufficient em-
ployment throughout the year; and they have not the
resource of manufactures, except a trifling one in silk,
chiefly, stockings. The price of labour is under a shil-
ling a day; and, beside corn and roots, the principal
food of the common people is confined to cod-fish,
caught on the neighbouring coast of Africa, or imported
from North America. |

Yet the people are not sth subject to disease; and
imstances of longevity, even to an hundred years, are
said not to be rare amongst them. The air is dry and

pure. The variations of the thermometer seldom exceed
VOL. I. R

 

 
122

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Tenerife. fourteen degrees, from sixty-eight to eighty-two, in the

 

inhabited part of the island. It remained at seventy-two
while the Lion continued at Santa Cruz.

~The race of the Guanches, or aborigines of Teneriffe,
is now almost extinct. They have not been, like the
natives of South America, much diminished, by cruel
treatment from their conquerors ; but a society of people,
less refined, always dwindles in the neighbourhood of
one which is more so. The former, cramped in their
possessions and excursions, daily repining at their de-
pendence, and puiting no limits to their indulgence in
spirituous liquors, which the deleterious arts of their
neighbours furnish at an easy rate, become gradually
enervated in body and mind; and their race disappears,
at length, from the surface of the earth. The very few
Guanches, who remain, are entitled to some very trifling
stipend, as a price of the submission of their ancestors,

~ from the court of Spain, which they punctually, and

with some sensations of pride, annually demand. Many
of the dead bodies of those Guanches have been found in
perfect preservation, in an erect posture, placed against
the sides of caves dug into the mountains: the bodies
wrapped round‘with several folds of goats’ skins.

The native Canary bird is of a greyish colour, with
some yellow feathers on his breast, which increase in
size and number as the bird grows older. But the Ca-
nary birds, usually sold in England, are mostly bred in
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Germany, and, by domestication, are much altered from
the wild natives of the Canaries; and their notes are
less pleasing.
Teneriffe, tho not the largest, is probably the most
fertile of the Canary islands, as far as can be inferred
from the inferior population of the others. The popu-
lation of the Grand Canary island, according to the best
accounts, amounts to no more than forty thousand inha-
bitants ; that of Palma to thirty thousand ; Forteventura
ten thousand ; Lancerota eight thousand ; Gomera seven
thousand : and Hierro, or Ferro, fifteen hundred. This
last island is the most to the westward of the Canaries,
and, indeed, the most western part of the old world ; and
was once, among geographers and navigators, a spot of
considerable importance ; as, by general consent, it was
considered as the first meridian, from which the degrees
of longitude were reckoned, as those of latitude are from
the Equator. ‘But observatories having been since erected
in England and France, the astronomers of those coun:
tries have preferred to calculate the longitude as begin-
ning at the respective places where they made their
observations; and, now, it is generally reckoned from
Greenwich or from Paris.
On the twenty-seventh of October the Lion and Hin-
dostan continued their route from Santa Cruz towards
Port Praya in the island of St. Jago. They met, immedi-
ately, with the trade winds which are already mentioned

123

Teneriffe.

ESS
‘124

Passage to
St. Jago.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

to blow over the ocean, constantly, from the eastward.

The ships were thus, quickly, wafted beyond that por-
tion of the globe, which was considered as dividing the
temperate from the torrid, and uninhabitable, zone. And

the latter certainly would merit that appellation, were
it not for those regular breezes which moderate the
heat."

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“* In this passage currents, alsc, as in the former, were
observed by Sir Erasmus Gower; but their direction
was various. The weather was hazy, and the wind
steady, impelling the ships at the rate of fifty leagues,
or one hundred and fifty nautical miles a day. In the
morning of the first of November, the isle of Bonavista,
one of the Cape Verdes, came in sight. About this
time the weather became extremely sultry ; and there
was an unhealthy humidity in the air, which threw
the body into a state of languor. The thermometer
kept between eighty-two and eighty-four degrees.
The ships left Bonavista to the north-west, about the
distance of eight or nine leagues. On the north-east end
of that island was a hill, which, from its conical and
truncated shape, had the appearance of having been
a volcano. There was another, much higher, near
the south-west end, with high land to the westward
of it. "The sea coast, on the south-east side, was guarded
by rocks; but towards the south-east end the shore
was much covered with white sand. There did not
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125

seem to be any cultivation or inhabitants on that side. Passage to

The latitude of Bonavista was sixteen degrees six mi-
nutes north, and the longitude twenty-two degrees
forty-seven minutes west from Greenwich. Variation
twelve degrees thirty-six minutes to the westward of
the pole.

*« The afternoon of the second of November brought
the isle of May 1n sight. The north-east end of it was
extremely low, little above the level of the sea, with
a covering of white sand, not always easily discover-
able in the night. The land rises, gradually, till it ar-
rives at a volcanic mountain; to the south-west of
which was irregular ground; and soon followed a
high disorderly peak, much more lofty than the vol-
canic cone. The island was left to the north-west
about ten miles. Its latitude was fifteen degrees ten
minutes north ; its longitude twenty-three degrees five
minutes west of Greenwich. The variation of the
compass was here twelve degrees west.

““ At six o'clock on the following morning the island
of St. Jago appeared ; and, at noon, the Lion anchored
in Praya bay, in seven fathoms water: the church
bearing north-north-west half west, and the north-east
end of a small island in the bay, north-east. The bot-
tom there is better than at a depth of twelve or four-
teen fathoms, beyond which it is uncertain and rough.
The bay is open to the wind from the south-east

St. Jago.
‘126

St. Jago.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘““ to west by south ; but it is never supposed to blow
‘“ here so hard, or to bring in such a sea, as to en-
““ danger a ship's continuing to ride at her anchors
““ steadily. The latitude of the bay is fourteen degrees
‘“ fifty-six minutes north, and the longitude twenty-
“« three degrees twenty-nine minutes west. The va-
““ riation of the compass is twelve degrees forty-eight
‘“ minutes west. The tides, in the full and change of
‘“ the moon, rise nearly five feet perpendicular. English
‘“ men of war salute with eleven guns, on an assurance
‘“ of a return of an equal number.

~«<'This bay had, for several years, been frequented
‘“ by ships bound to the southward, as bullocks, sheep;
‘“ hogs, goats, poultry, and fruits were abundant and
‘ reasonable. Fish was, likewise, taken by the seine,
‘“ which is a large net, cast into the sea, and hauled
‘« afterwards ashore, supplying enough, at once, for
““ whole ships’ companies. An excellent kind of rock-
‘“ cod was, likewise, caught from the rocks with rod
¢“ and line.”

The island bore, now, from the ships’ Jocks a om
appearance; but the verdure of the large waving leaves
of the cocoa-nut, and date, trees, growing in the sand
behind the beach, still gave some cheerfulness to the
prospect. As soon, however, as the ships’ boats had
landed, a ghastly figure, walking hastily along the shore;
announced the desolate situation of the island.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

127

It was an English sailor, who had served on board a st jag.

Dutch East Indiaman, but had been left, by some acci-
dent, behind, at St. Jago. The island, he said, was in
an absolute state of famine. Little or no rain had fallen
there for about three years before. The rivers were,
almost all, entirely dry. The surface of the earth was,
in general, naked of any herbage. The greatest part
of the cattle had already perished, not less through
drought, than want of food. Of the inhabitants many
had migrated ; many were famished to death." The nar-
rator was himself a striking specimen of the misery he
described. Tho he had not been long upon the island,
he had already severely suffered by the general want.
He had no occupation on shore. He had no money.
Of the scanty stock of a common seaman’s clothes, the
chief articles had quickly been exchanged for roots or
any thing eatable, to support life. English ships that
had called at Praya bay, since his arrival, refused to
take him on board, on account of his having gone into
foreign service. By a humane regulation of the British
navy, every British sailor left in foreign ports by Bri-
tish ships, whether warlike or mercantile, is received
on board any of his Majesty's ships which touch there.
This poor man was in a predicament which deprived
him of that resource. He found himself on that ele-
ment, on which nature had, indeed, intended him to
continue, but which denied him, now, its comforts;
128

St. Jago.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

and he seemad to cast hislonging eyes, in vain, towards

that other, to which he had dedicated his life.

At the end of the sandy beach, turning to the right
of St. Jago, close to the rock, and at the foot of an ele-
vated plain, were the remains of a once neat and elegant

chapel of the Romish church, erected, probably, in that

“spot, by the grateful piety of some person saved from

shipwreck. The decay of such a building, ina settle-
ment of Portugueze, resembling the mohuments of a
religion now no more, was, in itself, no slight symptom
of the general devastation.

On the elevated plain, just mentioned, was the ham-

let, rather than the town, of Praya, the residence of the

governor-general, for the crown of Portugal, of the Cape
Verde on the main land of Africa, and of the Cape
Verde islands opposite to it. This hamlet consisted of
about one hundred very small dwellings, one story:

high, scattered on each side of the plain, which ex-

tended near a mile in length, and about the third of a
mile in breadth; and fell off, all round, to the ad-
joining valleys and the sea. Not being commanded
by any neighbouring eminence, it was a situation ca-
pable of defence. The fort, however, or battery, was
almost in ruins; and the few guns mounted on it were
mostly honey-combed, and placed on carriages which
scarcely held together. It was understood at St. Jago,
that the militia there consisted of three regiments, of
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

about seven hundred men each, chiefly officered by Mu-

lattoes and Negroes; there not being above ten white
officers in the whole. One of them was the inn-keeper.
The best building was the jail ; and the next, the church,
at which officiated a priest, who was a dark-coloured
Mulatto, or the mixed offspring of a black parent and a
white one.

The Governor dwelt in a little wooden barrack, plea-
santly situated at one extremity of the plain, looking
down a valley over a grove of cocoa-nut trees, and
having a view of the bay and shipping. He received
the Embassador with all due honours, on his landing,
advancing a considerable way from his house, to meet
and conduct his Excellency to it. On such occasions, it
was usual to offer wine and other refreshments; but
none appeared on the Governor's table, for a reason not
to be controverted. He partook of the general wretch-
edness, arising from the dreadful drought, which had
so long prevailed, and rendered the country, nearly, as
barren as a rock. Yet the island appeared covered with a
layer of vegetable soil. The general surface was also suf-
ficiently level to retain any moisture that fell upon it;
and from its centre rose mountains, of 2 height which
promised to stop, and condense, from the passing clouds,
any water they might hold in vapour. No change had
been observed in the steady current of the winds, blowing

from the east, which are common to tropical climates.
YoL. I, S

129

St. Jago.
130 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

st. Jago. Lhe frequent showers, which were observed by the first
= navigators who touched there, induced them to give the
island the name of Pluvialis.
‘What were the uncommon circumstances that took
place in the atmosphere of that part of Africa, to which
the Cape Verde islands lay contiguous, or, in the vast
expanse of continent, extending to the east behind it,
and from which this direful effect must have proceeded,
as they happened where no man of science existed, to
observe or to record them, will therefore remain un-
known ; nor is theory bold enough to supply the place
of observation. Whatever was the cause, which thus
arrested the bountiful hand of nature, by drawing away
the sources of fertility, it was observable, that some few
trees and plants persevered to flourish with a luxuriance
indicating, that they still could extract from the arid earth
whatever portion of humidity it was necessary to derive
from thence for the purpose of vegetable life, tho it was
denied to others. |
Beside the trees of the palm kind, already mentioned
to be verdant amidst the burning sands, nothing, for
example, could be more rich in flower, or abound more
with milky, tho corrosive, juice, than the asclepias gi-
gantea, growing plentifully about, several feet high,
without culture, indeed, but undisturbed, it being of
no avail to cutit down in favour of plants that would
be useful, but required the aid of more moisture from

 
EMBASSY TO CHINA. 131

the atmosphere. The jatropha curcas, or physic nut st. jag.
tree, which the French West Indians, with some pro- ——_——
priety, call bous émmortel, and plant, on that account,
in the boundaries of their estates, appeared as if its
perpetuity was not to be affected by any drought.
Some indigo plants were still cultivated with success,
in shaded vales, together with a few cotton shrubs.
Throughout the country some of those species of the
mimosa, or sensitive plant, which grow into the size of
trees, were most common, and did not appear to lan-
guish. In particular spots the annona, or ‘sugar apple
tree, was in perfect verdure. The borassus, or great fan
palm, lifted, in a few places, its lofty head and spread-
ing leaves with undiminished beauty. In a bottom,
about a mile and a half behind the town of Praya, was
still growing, in a healthy state, what may be called, for
size, a phenomenon in vegetation, a tree known to bota-
nists by the name of adansonia, and in English called
monkey bread tree. The natives of St. Jago call it kabi-
sera; others, baobab. Its trunk measured, at the base,
no less than fifty-six feet in girth; but it soon divided
into two great branches, one rising perpendicularly, and
measuring forty-two feet in circumference. That of the
other was about twenty-six. By it stood another, of the
same species, whose single trunk, of thirty-eight feet
girth, attracted little notice, from the vicinity of its huge
companion. See the engraving at the end of this chapter.
132

St. Jago.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Yet the annual produce of agriculture for food was
scarcely to be found. The plains and fields, formerly pro-
ductive of corn, sugar-canes, or plantains, nourished by
regular falls of rain, now bore little semblance of vege-

tation. In the small number of plants, which survived

the drought, were some which, from the specimens sent
to Europe, were found to have been hitherto unknown.
Vegetation quickly, indeed, revived wherever, through
the soil, any moisture could be conveyed. ;

The governor's secretary invited some of the gentle-
men from the Lion to his garden, distant about two
miles, inland. They were very agreeably surprised
with a view of a small clear rivulet (issuing from a
source at the bottom of some rocks) shaded by, as well
as nourishing, a fine fig tree, not that of Europe with
rough and deep indented leaves, but another species,
with entire long leaves, and of which the fruit, then

plucked off the branches by hands stretching over the

fountain, was perfectly delicious. Wherever the rivulet

was made to run, every species of vegetable near it
flourished. Here, among others, was planted the ma-

niota or cassada tree, of which the juice, expressed from

the root, is a deadly poison, while the root itself is salu-
tary food, as is also the sediment, deposited from the
poisonous juice, being the substance sold in England
under the name of tapioca. The rivulet soon, however,
fell into a bottom, from whence the adjoining grounds
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

were no longer irrigated ; but it supplied many of the
principal inhabitants of Praya, who sent that distance
to get good water. The cattle, near it, were relieved
from thirst, and the fields adjoining were like a bleach
ground, from the quantity of linen, washed in the little
stream and dried close to it. In the secretary’s garden
was a lofty cocoa-nut tree, filled with fruit, growing
round the upper extremity of its single trunk, near the
origin of its large spreading leaves. The trunk, in ris-
ing, declines somewhat from the perpendicular, and has
joints, at short distances, like the sugar cane. To get at
the fruit, a man ties a rope about his ankles, so as to
leave a space of about a foot between them. The man,
generally a Negro, thus prepared, with his arms em-
braces the tree, while he rests upon the joints, not with
his feet, but by the rope connecting them. His body
thus supported, he lifts his arms higher; and thus, suc-
cessively, raising his hands and feet, quickly arrives at
the spot from whence he can reach, and throw down,
the fruit to the spectators below. The shell is lined
with a white and almost solid substance, pleasing to the
taste, but difficult to be digested in the stomach. Within
this substance is contained a thin subacid liquor, pecu-
liary grateful in hot climates. The shell serves in ordi-
nary use, for a drinking vessel; and is of so compact a
substance, as to imbibe little of any fluid poured into it.
Outside the shell are strong fibres, frequently twisted

135

St. Jago.

————e
SL SARITA
134

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

st. Jago. 1nto ropes, which are chiefly used in lieu of those of

hemp, in the countries which produce this tree.

The secretary, who was a Portugueze subject, and a
native of Brazil, had some taste for science, and had
attached himself to botany, which may be thought a
proof, or instance, of that branch of knowledge extend-
ing where others are little cultivated. The general ca-
lamity of the island was attended with aggravated dis-
appointment to the botanist, whose researches were,
necessarily, stopped by the little variety of objects to
examine.

Some of the party, who had visited the secretary's
garden, made, afterwards, a longer excursion, crossing
the country, to the town and former capital of the
island, and which is also called St. Jago. The soil, as
far as they went, had all the appearance of natural fer-
tility, and bore the marks of extensive tillage, but looked
as if it had been ravaged by fire, or by an enemy laying
all things waste. They saw some cattle, lank, indeed,
and scarcely capable of moving; but the cause of as-
tonishment was, that they should still remain in exist-
ence, with the little food they could draw from the
scorched surface of the earth. The party traversed one
small river, not quite dried up, but shallow, and losing
itself among the pebbles of the broad bed over which,
formerly, it rolled. An overhanging mountain appear-
ed as if it had been cleft in twain; and as if one half
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

had been swept away by the violence of some mighty tor-
rent. On arriving at the boundary of an elevated plain,
they entered a fort, in ruins, originally meant to defend
the steep descent towards the town of St. Jago, which is
situate in the bottom of a vale, formed between the
plain just mentioned, and a high hill opposite to it.
This vale seemed to have been scooped out by the force
of a violent torrent, rolling along with it great rocks,
which stood in its passage, and emptying itself with
them into the sea. Thus a small, irregular, and unsafe
harbour was formed by those rocks, while the current
itself is diminished into a stream so small and sluggish,
that it cannot clear its mouth from the sands that the
tide throws in, and by which it is almost choked up.
On each side of this little stream are the remains of
dwellings of considerable solidity and size; and the
fragments of glass lustres, still hanging from the ceilings
of some of the principal apartments, denote the elegance
or riches that were once displayed in this, now deserted,
place. Not above a dozen families remain in it at pre-
sent; the rest abandoned it, or perished.

Here was still, however, an attempt at a slight manu-
factory of striped cotton slips, the same as are made in
the other parts of the island, for the use of the Africans
on the main, who pay for them in slaves, elephants’
teeth, and that gum which is generally called arabic.

Amidst the ruins of St. Jago the party found a Por-

135

St. Jago.

 
136

Bt. Jago.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

tugueze, to whom one of them was recommended, and
who received them with the most cordial hospitality in
his house, and treated them with every species of tro-
pical fruits from his garden, lying on each side the
river. He had been a navigator, and informed them
that the isle of Brava, one of the Cape Verdes, was a
fitter and safer place for ships to call at, for water and
provisions, than the island of St. Jago; that it had
three harbours, one called Puerto Furno, on the east
side of the island, from which vessels must warp, or
be towed out by boats; the Puerto Fajendago to the
west, and the Puerto Ferreo to the south, which was
the best for large ships, and into which runs a small
river. In another of the Cape Verde islands, called San
Vicente, he observed that there was also a large harbour
on the north end, but that fresh water was at some dis-
tance from it; and that there was, likewise, a good port
at Bonavista.

This information of the harbours in the isle of Brava
was confirmed by accounts given by others to Sir
Erasmus Gower, who recommends to make a trial of
them.

All the islands of Cape Verde were said to have
experienced the same long drought, and to be, conse-
quently, in a similar state of desolation. Tho they are
about twenty in number, including the smallest and
most insignificant ; their present reduced population
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

137

little exceeds forty-two thousand inhabitants; of whom st. jug.

about twelve thousand are said to be in the island of
St. Jago; eight thousand in Bonavista; seven thousand
in the isle of May; six thousand in that of San Nicolas,
the residence of the bishop of the Cape Verdes, and the
pleasantest of them all; four thousand in San Antonio;
as many in San Phelippe de Fuogo, remarkable for a
volcanic fire constantly issuing from the cone of a moun-
tain in its middle; not many more than five hundred in
the isle of Brava; and still fewer in the remaining isles,
not specified.

~ Of the island of St. Jago * the south-west side only,”
Doctor Gillan observed, ¢¢ had any appearance of vol-
“ canic formation. About two miles from Praya bay
is a very high hill, altogether composed of clay and
sand, on which not the least marks appear of the
‘“ action of fire. About six miles, near the road, from
““ the town of Praya to that of St. Jago, is another hill,
almost entirely composed of rich iron stone, of a deep
blue or purple colour, formed of clay, calx -of iron,
and siliceous earth. In the rocks opposite the gover-
nor's house, near Praya, are several narrow perpendi-
touls veins of white spar. The beach is covered with
“ a fine siliceous sand.”

Into Praya bay, while the Lion and a Ky
there, came several trading vessels from Dunkirk. One

of them attracted notice, as being that which was for-
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St. Jago.

ETSI

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merly called the Resolution, so celebrated under the
command of Captain Cook. These ships were soon
joined by others, coming from Nantucket, in America:
Their masters announced that they were all bound for
the coast of Brazil and the Falkland islands, to carry

‘on the whale fishery there. The Dunkirk vessels

were manned, chiefly, by English sailors, were full of
English goods, and were supposed to belong to adven-
turers in London, and to be intended, in reality, to try a
trade, under French colours, with the Spanish coasts of
Chili and Peru.

Praya bay was rendered somewhat interesting, too,
by having been, not long before, the scene of action
between the English and French squadrons, under the
respective commands of Commodore Johnstone and Ad-
miral De Suffren. The latter, in attacking the British
ships of war and Indiamen in a neutral port, committed
a gross violation of the rights of nations. Some time
afterwards, while commanding the French fleet in the
East Indies, he complained to one of the present pas-
sengers in the Lion, who went in a flag of truce on
public affairs to the French head quarters, of the con-
duct of the British admiral authorizing a small French
vessel to be taken out, by force, from the neutral port of
Tranquebar, belonging to the Danes, on the coast of
Coromandel ; and being reminded of the example he
had set at Praya, he replied, that ¢* the object, in the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

139

‘* former instance, was too trifling to make it worth the st. jago.

‘“ infraction of a public law.” Such are the maxims of
political morality.

The Portugueze maintain no force, at St. Jago, capable
of insuring a proper respect to their flag there. They
draw, indeed, in revenue from the place, less than the
value of the supplies sent to it from Portugal. None of
these islands are, however, encouraged by the regulations
of the parent state. A trade for slaves from Africa is
established at St. Jago ; and that trade is a monopoly to
the crown. The governor derives his chief profit from
the sales of cattle to the ships which call there; and of
the amount of those sales he claims a moiety. Such is
the state of the inhabitants, without any regular commu-
nication with other countries, that their principal depen-
dence for a supply of whatever their own island cannot
afford, is upon vessels stopping, casually, there. They
set little value upon money, which might lie long useless
in their hands: preferring to barter whatever they have
to sell, for a return, principally, of corn or clothing,
rather than any quantity of specie that would be offered
to them. |

The very scanty provisions they had to dispose of,
to the Lion and Hindostan, could be no inducement to
delay. The water, too, was neither good, nor easy to be
had. It was drawn from wells; and that which afforded
140

St. Jago.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the most tolerable, was about five hundred yards distant
from the beach. Sir Erasmus Gower advises ¢ to draw
‘“ it very early in the morning, as it is afterwards soon
‘“ disturbed by the neighbouring inhabitants, who take
‘““ much of it away. It is not less necessary, for the
‘“ preservation of the seamen, to avoid employing them
in the middle of the day, as the weather is extremely
“ sultry, the thermometer seldom under eighty-five de-
‘“ grees, and often above ninety. It had, formerly, oc-
‘“ curred, to prefer the coolness of the night, to roll the
‘“ casks of water to the beach, and to float them off to
‘“ the boats, lying at anchor at some little distance on
‘ account of the violence of the surge; but the experi-
‘“ ment has been fatal, whole boats’ crews dying in con-
‘ sequence of it.” Mr. Jackson, master of the Lion,
had an idea of sinking casks in the beach, near the sea,
almost up to the brim, with holes in their bottoms and
sides, by which means the casks would soon fill, he
thought, with good water, filtered through the sand.
And such an experiment may be, certainly, worth
making, where good water is not otherwise to be had,

€¢

or is too far distant. But the Lion and Hindostan were

not driven to the necessity of this trial, having a sufh-
cient reserve of water to the place where they next
proposed to stop, for such refreshments as St. Jago
could not afford. They had been, already, five days
EMBASSY TO GHINA. 141

in Praya bay, and the Jackall tender did notappear. It st. Jago.
was, therefore, now determined to prosecute the voyage =~
without her; and on the eighth of November the ships

set sail from the island of St. Jago.

 
Passage of
the Line.
———

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

CHAPTER V.

PASSAGE OF THE LINE. COURSE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC.
HARBOUR, CITY, AND COUNTRY OF RIO DE JANEIRO.

No part of the African continent, from the neigh-
bourhood of which the Lion and Hindostan were now
directing their route, extends so much to the westward
as that which lies near the imaginary line called the
Equator, being almost equidistant from the two poles;
nor, on the other hand, does the land of South America
any where advance, or swell, as it were, so much out to
meet the ancient continent to the eastward, as within a
few degrees of the same line. Thus the waters of the
Atlantic are, hereabouts, brought within narrower bounds
than either to the northward or to the southward; and
as, over what thus may comparatively be called a strait,
the winds blow almost perpetually from the eastward, it is
not improbable that vessels may, at different times, have
been driven from the old to the new continent.

Across this tract of ocean it is usually observed that the
winds, blowing easterly from the continent of Africa,
alter their direction as they approach very near the
opposite continent of America; and take a course be-
tween the north and west. Such winds are too favour-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

able not, occasionally, to be sought for by vessels in their
way to, or round, the Cape of Good Hope, which lies to
the south-east. The settlements on the coast of South
America afford also those refreshments in abundance,

which ships sometimes fail of finding in other places;

as was the case with the Lion and Hindostan at St.
Jago.

The friendly port of Rio de Janeiro promised every
advantage; and these ships bent their course that way
on leaving the Cape Verdes. The weather continued
for some time hazy and very sultry. Many of the
seamen, who suffered in Praya bay, were still indis-
posed on board. There was neither much rain, nor
lightning to clear the atmosphere. Under these circum-
stances mortality often rages; and ships of war, thronged
with men, frequently lose no inconsiderable proportion
of their complement. The humid heat between decks,
where seamen are often crowded, and the impurities,
sometimes suffered by their carelessness to be accumu-
lated, tend not a little to their destruction. But Sir
Erasmus Gower established such methods and regula-
tions for insuring cleanliness, and a constant circulation
of fresh air, throughout the ship, as, with other pre-
cautions, contributed materially to preserve his people.
Every part of the Lion was washed carefully with
vinegar; and sulphur was burnt whenever it was prac-
ticable. Ventilators of different constructions, worked

143

Passage of

the Line.
1

41

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Pasage of by hand, and applicable to the different parts of the

the Line.

ship, were placed wherever they could be put in use.
The men’s hammocks, with their bedding, were brought
upon deck at a fixed hour every morning, and left in
the open air till the approach of night, except when

showers of rain made it necessary to put them under

cover. Columns of fresh air were conveyed through
every part of the ship, and close even to the keel, by
the means of wind-sails, or cylindrical tubes of canvas,
of about two feet diameter, open at both ends, and ex-
tending through the hatchways, from above the upper,
to below the lowest, deck. Near the upper extremity
of this canvas tube is a slit or opening in its side, which
is always turned towards the quarter from whence the
wind, at that time, blows. Attention was paid, like-
wise, to the people’s diet, by mixing with their ani-
mal, as great a proportion of vegetable, food as could
be provided. No spirituous liquors were distributed or
allowed, without a due admixture of water with them.
The water itself, being liable to acquire a putrid taste
and smell in the hogsheads that contain it, was prepared
for use by being put in jars open to the air, and by
being passed repeatedly through a tin cylinder, pierced
with holes; a practice which is found to free it, in great
measure, from its noxious and disagreeable qualities.
The steadiness of the trade wind, not only regular in
its direction, but generally likewise in its strength, left
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

145

little to occupy the hands, or attention, of the seamen, as passage of

to the manceuvres of navigation. But they were kept in
moderate and healthful exercise by other means: some
in working the several ventilators; some in cleaning out
every apartment and division of the ship; the carpenters
and armourers, with several assistants, were employed
in making or repairing whatever was deficient in their
respective departments; some splicing cordage, and con-
verting what could not any longer be used as such, into
oakum ; many more in sewing new sails, or piecing
those that happened to be torn; and some, likewise, in
mending their own apparel: combining, thus, the eco-
nomy of individuals with that of the public service;
and, on these occasions, the ships’ decks exhibited the
appearance, in some sort, of a dockyard, sail-loft, or
other busy manufactory.

By such means as these the men gradually recovered ;
and were prepared to enjoy the festivities usual on the
passage of the Line. No doubt, the entrance into another
hemisphere, when that passage first was made, must have
been an event arresting the attention, and filling the
minds of those, in every station, who were witnesses of it.
And the commander who, for the first time, had the good
fortune to cross the Line, probably indulged his crew
in testifying a joy he must have sincerely felt himself.

The lower orders of mankind, who know little of life

except its labours, are not quickly forgetful of any occa-

the Line.
146

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Passage of Sion, recurring to them so seldom, of enjoying a mo-

the Line.

s===== mentary gleam of happiness and independence. It re-

conciles them to subsequent subordination, and, even,
suffering. They seldom abuse the indulgence thus al-
lowed them; and frequently tire, in a little time, of
what they entered upon with so much eagerness, and
conceived to be productive of so much pleasure; and,
feeling that idleness ceases soon to be enjoyment, return
with resignation, and real comfort to their wonted oc-
cupations. The amusements, on this occasion, consisted
chiefly in dressing up a sailor, of a good figure and
manly countenance, in the supposed proper habit of
the sea god, Neptune, armed with a trident, and his
garments dripping with the element submitted to his
power. He stood at the ships head, as if he were rising
out of the ocean, and demanded, with an audible voice,
what was the ship thus encroaching upon his domi-
nions? An answer being given from the quarter-deck,
where the Embassador, Sir Erasmus Gower, the officers
and passengers, all stood, announcing the ship’s name,
and purport of the voyage, Neptune, with his attendants
properly accoutred, stepped with great solemnity to-
wards them, and, with some words of compliment to
his Excellency, presented him a fish (lately caught) as
part of the produce of the deity’s domains. His god-
head was treated by all with great respect; and becoming
offerings of silver were voluntarily made to him, for
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

himself and his companions, by those who had crossed
the Line before ; but were exacted as a just tribute from
those who attempted it for the first time, under penalty
of going through ceremonies, not a little ludicrous, and
promotive of much broad laughter among the initiated
in those mysteries. They concluded with a plentiful re-
past, accompanied with the music of the bagpipe, and co-
pious, tho not excessive, libations of exhilarating liquor.

In the neighbourhood of the Line, a stagnated atmo-
sphere often suffers the equinoctial heat to act in full force
upon the human frame ; but, in the present voyage, there
was very little calm. The south-eastern breeze was
steady, and the weather pleasant: yet the horizon ap-
peared nearer to the eye; and the arch of the sky seemed
to form but a small segment of a circle. The clouds de-
scended to the proximity of the ocean ; and, in several
places within sight at once, they seemed to dip down to-
wards it, and attract a part of its contents in the form of
water-spouts, the drops rising, apparently, and meeting
the bending cloud. 04

All the vessels that were observed traversing this part
of the ocean, were traders between Portugal and its A fri-
can settlements, on the one hand, and its opulent colo-
nies in the Brazils, on the other; as if, here, both
sides of the Atlantic, exclusively, belonged to that
crown. Few birds were seen throughout this passage ;

and few fish were caught. The sailors enjoyed, how-
VOL. I. U

.

147

Passage of
the Line.

FATES SI
148

Course
across the
Atlantic.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

ever, the pleasure of destroying an enemy, in harpoon-
ing a shark, several feet long, whose wide gaping jaws
and numerous rows of teeth denoted the voraciousness of
its nature. On dissection, its breast was found to contain
no lungs, and as if destined only to be a pericardium,
or bony inclosure for the heart : the five spiracles, or
openings behind its head, communicating simply with
the gills situated near the jaw. One beautiful dolphin,
which was hauled on board, afforded an opportunity of
observing how wonderfully this fish varies its colours,
from yellow to blue and purple, in the agonies of death.

‘« The temperature,” as Sir Erasmus Gower observed,
« of the climate sensibly improved, as the ships receded
‘« from the coast of Africa ; yet the thermometer kept at
“ eighty or eighty-one degrees. The sea was smooth ;
“ and the currents were frequent, setting as often to the
«« southward as to the northward. The north-east wind
‘“ began to abate about the ninth degree north from the
‘ Equator : then the wind became more easterly, and
«« sometimes drew to the southward of east. The Equator
«« was crossed in the twenty-fifth degree of western lon-
«“ gitude from Greenwich with a fresh breeze from the
¢« south-east. Ships, as to the part of crossing the Equa-
“‘ tor, must be determined by the winds which the season
«“ of the year produces. When the sun is farto the south-
«« ward of the Line, the south-east winds begin in seven
¢ degrees of latitude north, which force vessels, some-
EMBASSY TO CHINA. 149

«times, as far as the twenty-seventh degree, or more, of Course
“ western longitude, before passing the Equator. When Sa
“the sun is to the northward, the Line may be crossed ~
“in a longitude much more eastern, the winds then

¢ blowing generally from the north-east. In the pre-

«« gent instance, it continued to blow from the south-east

“ quarter, not varying more than to the east-south-east,

«« till ‘the ships arrived at the seventeenth degree of la-

«« titude south of the Equator, when the wind, being

« influenced by the land of the Brazils, came first to

«« the north-east, and then changed, gradually, to the

«¢ north-north-west, until the land appeared in latitude

« twenty-two degrees forty minutes south. Previous to

«that period, pains were taken to find out the Abrolhos

«« shoal, as laid down from the authority of Lord Anson

«« and several captains of Indiamen; but no bottom was

“« found, on sounding twice with a line of two hundred

« fathoms, first, in latitude sixteen degrees eighteen mi-

“ nutes south, and in longitude thirty-six degrees five

‘“ minutes west; and the second time, in eighteen de-

‘“ grees thirty minutes south, and thirty-six degrees

““ fifty minutes west longitude. In latitude twenty-two

““ degrees south, and longitude forty degrees thirty-four

““ minutes west, the colour of the water was perceived

““ to indicate soundings, which, on trial, were found at

““ the depth of thirty-three fathoms. The weather was

not then clear ; but soon afterwards, on the twenty-

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150

Course
across the

Atlantic.

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

ninth of November, the land of the Brazils was seen
at the distance of ten leagues. Thus was the voyage
performed, from England to South America, in one
day less than two months. If, from this time, nine-
teen days, during which the ships were at anchor at

Madeira, Teneriffe, and St. Jago, be deducted, it will,

be found, that each day’s sailing must, upon an ave-

rage, have exceeded one hundred and fifty miles, and
that the whole passage was as quick as had been re-
membered. The land, which had been seen, lay to
the northward of the island called Frio, and was very
high and irregular, having remarkable peaks, with
white vertical streaks, resembling, at a distance, cas-
cades of water, or veins of marble. Steering southerly
towards Frio, a small island is perceived, of a mode-
rate height, detached from the main land about three
miles ; and there appears a clear passage between it
and the land. The island of Frio lies about south-
west, eight leagues from the former. The shore be-
tween them seems perfectly free from danger. The
land of Frio is high, with a hollow in the middle,

which gives it, at a distance, the resemblance of two

separate islands. The passage between Frio and the

continent is about a mile broad, and seems clear from
shoals. The latitude is thirty-two degrees two mi-
nutes south ; longitude, by observations, forty-one
degrees thirty-one minutes forty-five seconds west.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘“ In sailing westward towards Rio de Janeiro, the shore
““ is perceived to be covered with white sand ; the land
‘“ irregular and high, with two or three small islands
¢mear it.”

Captain Mackintosh, from experience, recommends
to ships, bound for the harbour of Rio de Janeiro,
““ after getting in with Cape Frio, instead of steering
‘“ along shore, to shape their course between south-
‘““ west and south-west by west, for twelve or fourteen
‘“ leagues. To this distance the land wind extends.
‘“ The forenoons, in general, are calm, but almost every
‘¢ afternoon a fresh sea breeze sets in from the south-
‘“ west. It 1s proper to steer, in a direct course, from
‘“ hence to the small islands, lying under the great in-
‘“ clining Sugar-loaf on the western side of the entrance
‘“ into Rio harbour. From these small islands the wind
‘“ will carry the ship to the opposite side of the har-
““ bour’s mouth, where the fort of Santa Cruz is situate,
‘“ and which may be approached within fifty yards,

‘“ and from thence, safely and quickly, into harbour.”

Captain Mackintosh adds ¢¢ that in his first voyage to

““ this place, by keeping in shore, he spent five days of
““ very unpleasant and troublesome navigation before
““ he could get into the harbour ; whereas, by the me-
“* thod now laid down, he came the same distance in
“much less than twenty-four hours, and with great
““ ease and satisfaction.”

151

Course
across the
Atlantic.

 
152 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Course Sir Erasmus Gower observes, that ¢¢ the entrance of

across the 3 oy . .

adantic. “the harbour will shew itself by discovering the castle
¢« or fort of Santa Cruz, and a small fortified island,

‘« called Fort Lucia, nearly abreast of it. Between these

 

«t is the channel into the harbour, near a mile wide.
«« Both shores are steep. That of Santa Cruz is perpen-
‘¢ dicular, there being six fathoms in the wash of the
‘“ sea. The narrowness of the channel causes strong
s¢ tides ; but as the sea breeze blows fresh, they do not
«“ impede entering into the harbour. In going in, it is
‘“ best to keep mid channel, or even nearer to Santa
«« Cruz. About four miles outside the harbour’s mouth,
‘“ the depth of water is eighteen and nineteen fathoms,
« which will decrease, gradually, to eight or seven;
‘« and this, being the shallowest part, may be called the
<¢ bar, which is about two miles outside the fort. The
““ water again deepens, on approaching to Santa Cruz,
““ to seventeen and eighteen fathoms; nor will less be
¢¢ found in the fair way of the great road. Large ships
“ may moor in shoaler water ; but that depth, or there-
«« abouts, is more advisable, as such a situation affords
¢“ the full advantage of the sea breeze, and also that
““ of avoiding the insects, which are very troublesome
¢« when nearer to the shore. The Lion anchored in
« eighteen fathoms, the Sugar-loaf bearing south by east
«« half east; the castle of Santa Cruz south-east by south ;
‘a convent on an eminence over the south part of the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

“city south-west by west; one mile and a half from the
« ]Janding-place opposite the viceroy 's palace.

«« Before a ship attempts to enter into the harbour, it
«« will be proper to send a boat, with an officer, to the
¢s castle of Santa Cruz, who will be conducted, from
«« thence, to the palace of the viceroy, to give him in-
«« formation of the ship's arrival, and the occasion of
“« her calling there. The ship’s colours should, also, be
“« hoisted early, unless the pratique, or usual visiting
«“ boat from shore, be already on board. A vessel,
« even of the Portugueze nation, attempting to pass
« the fort, will be hailed, and peremptorily desired to
«« anchor, until permission be granted for proceeding.
«« Every particular of the ship, her condition, force,
«s destination, and wants, are required to be declared,
«« under the signature of the captain ; after which every
indulgence and assistance are readily promised to be
“ given; but the ship’s people are not suffered to land,
at any place, except at the stairs opposite the palace;
« and a military officer or soldier, generally, attends
« every person from on board while he remains on
«« shore. Guard-boats, also, surround the ship, to pre-
«« vent landing, except when and where permitted.
«« And those regulations are still more rigidly enforced
« with regard to mercantile vessels than to ships of war.
«« In the inner harbour, formed by an island called Ilheo
«« dos Cobras, or serpent island, are proper wharfs for

153

Rio de

Janeiro.

 
154

Rio de
Janeiro.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

“ heaving ships down by; but the mode of doing it
““ alongside hulks is now preferred. In the same har-
““ bour, all ships anchor which are loading or un-
‘¢ loading goods, or want repairing ; but the outer is
‘“ the more healthy situation. The latitude of Rio is
‘ twenty-two degrees fifty-four minutes south, and lon-
‘« gitude forty-two degrees forty-four minutes west from
<« Greenwich. Variation of the compass four degrees
““ fifty-five minutes to the westward of the pole. The

«tide flows seven hours and a half, and rises about five

‘« feet and a half perpendicular, F ahrenheit’s thermo-
‘“ meter, during the Lion's stay, was between seventy-
‘“ seven and eighty-two degrees.”

Rio de Janeiro is scarcely to be excelled for the capa-
ciousness and security of its harbour, or its convenience
for commerce, and the richness and fertility of the cir-
cumjacent country. The entrance into it, from the sea,
is bounded, on one side, by the leaning cone already
mentioned, measuring seven hundred feet in height,

and by the huge mass of granite, supporting the castle

of Santa Cruz, upon the other ; and is interrupted, near
the middle, by the little island on which Fort Lucia is
erected. On entering into the harbour, it was found
to enlarge to a width of three or four miles, and to pene-
trate in several branches, farther than the eye could
reach. It 1s interspersed with many islands, some
entirely green, and some covered with batteries or
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

habitations. The shores of the harbour were diversi-
fied and embellished with villages, farms, and planta-
tions, separated by rivulets, ridges of the rocks, inden-
tures of little sandy bays, or the skirtings of a forest; the
whole terminated, in distant prospect, by an amphi-
theatre, or screen of mountains, rising in a vast variety
of rude and fantastic forms, but covered with trees to
their very summits.

Within four miles of the harboud” s mouth 1s situate,
on the west, the city of St. Sebastian, usually called
Rio, built on a projecting tongue of land ; but all the
ground behind it is broken into hills and rocks, with
woods, houses, convents, and churches on their tops.
A convent of Benedictines, and, also, a fort command-
ing the town, are situate upon the extreme point jetting
into the harbour. Opposite to this point is the Ilheo
dos Cobras, or serpent island, between which and the
town is a narrow channel, sufficiently deep, however,
for the passage of the largest ships. Upon the island
are a dockyard, magazines, and naval storehouses ; and
round its shores are the usual anchoring places for the
shipping which frequent this port. Beyond the town
the harbour begins to widen considerably, and re-
sembles a large lake with many islands upon its sur-

face. Rio is said to be vastly improved within a few

years past. The houses are built, in many parts, of

hewn stone. The streets, generally straight, are well
VOL. I. X

155
Rio de

Janeiro.
156

Rio de
Janeiro.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

paved, with the addition of footpaths, and the narrow-
ness of some of them proves a convenience in such a hot
climate, on account of the shade occasioned by it. In
the squares are refreshing fountains, which supply the
water conveyed to them by an aqueduct of considerable
length ; for, notwithstanding its name, the town of Rio
has no river, close to it, of any note. This aqueduct is
carried over vallies by a double row of arches, one placed
above another. It is a structure of much ornament to
the town; tho, perhaps, the water might as effectually
be brought to it by pipes. The present aqueduct does
not imply an ignorance, among the Portugueze, of the
hydrostatic law, that water always rises to its level;
no more do the many structures of the same kind near
Rome, afford just grounds for such suspicion with re-
spect to the ancient Romans; for shew and magnifi-
cence were, as well as utility, the objects of public
works. A guard constantly attends at the fountains
throughout Rio, to regulate the distribution of the water,
which, probably, is scanty, as there are people a long
time waiting with buckets for their share. A sufhi-
cient proportion of the water from the fountain upon
the quay, opposite the palace, is allotted for the use of
the shipping, and is conveyed to the casks, remaining
in the boats, by means of a woollen or canvas tube,
called a hose, stretching from the fountain to the cask.
Sir Erasmus Gower, observing that the water was re-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

markably good, and kept better at sea than any other,
attributed the contrary opinion of Captain Cook to some
accidental impurities remaining in the casks he had
filled with it.

The shops of Rio were full of Manchester manufac-
tures, and other British goods, even to English prints,
both serious and caricature. A Portugueze merchant set-
tled here, reflecting on the advantages gained by the coun-
try which had furnished those many wares, observed,
that the prosperity both of Portugal and its dependen-
cies redounded chiefly to the benefit of England. The
benefit, probably has been reciprocal ; for every thing,
at least at Rio, denoted the thriving condition of the
place. The exterior appearance of individuals was that
of ease and comfort. Their dwellings, for the most part,
were in good condition, many of them large, and gene-
rally well calculated for the climate; the magazines and
markets well stored with merchandize; new buildings
going on of a public and private nature; tradesmen
busily employed; and, beside the aqueduct and foun-
tains, already mentioned, with which the city was
adorned, it had also some public walks; and upon the
beach, opposite the palace, was built a spacious quay of
granite, with which material, found indeed upon the spot,
many more of the principal buildings were constructed.

This place is said, however, to be unhealthy; and
instances of longevity are very rare. The unhealthiness

X57

Rio de
Janeiro.

 
158

Rio de
Janeiro.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

may arise more from local and temporary circumstances,
than from the necessary influence of the climate. The
town is situate, for the most part, upon a plain, sur-
rounded on all sides, except opposite the harbour, by
hills generally covered with thick forest trees, which
not only prevent a free circulation of the air, but render
it humid in the mornings and evenings; for the moisture
evaporated while the sun is up, condenses after it is set,
and the descending vapour falls upon the town in the
form of a fog or drizzling rain. Of these damp nights,
preceded by scorching days, putrid and intermitting
fevers must often be the consequence. It is too common
a spectacle to see, even among Europeans, as well as
native whites and negroes, that dreadful disease, the
elephantiasis, which, destroying the sound texture of the
integuments of the human frame, swells, and distorts,
and discolours wherever it attacks, enlarging the patient's
misshapen limbs to the bulk of those of the huge animal,
the resemblance to whom, in that particular, occasioned

_ the appellation this horrid disorder has received.

Not only the vicinity of the woods must be noxious,
but likewise that of water, by being suffered to stagnate
in marshes, near the town, tho they might easily be
drained, or filled with earth. Strangers, particularly, feel
their tormenting consequences in the infinite swarms
of musquitoes, or large gnats, which attack them for
some time after their arrival. A long residence here,
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

however, brings about some alteration in the body,
which guards it against those insects ; not that the skin
ceases to be sensible of their sting ; but either it is no
longer liable to be penetrated by them, or it no longer
affords juices attractive of their taste. This is not the
only annoyance to strangers, in the night, at Rio: for
there, as in Lisbon according to the observation of Lord
Kaims, the wheels of carts are purposely constructed to
make a most harsh and croaking noise, to prevent the
devil from harming the cattle that are yoked to them.
The fertile powers of the imagination could scarcely
have devised a more effectual method of producing a
horrid din.

No real or fancied danger, however, curbs the pro-
pensity of all classes of society here towards gaiety and
pleasure. There are three convents for men, and two
for women in this place ; but little is said to be prac-
tised, in any of them, of the austerity and self-denial
supposed to be intended by their original institution.
Tho the conquest of the country originally was under-
taken with the professed intention of converting the
natives to Christianity ; and ample endowments have
been made for maintaining friars to preach the gospel to
those infidels, yet not one of the former was now engaged
in such a troublesome, unsafe, and, perhaps, hopeless
enterprize. Indeed a few Italian missionaries residing
here took pains to send amongst the Indians such of

159

Rio de
Janeiro.
160

-Rio de

Janeiro.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

that tribe who frequent Rio, as they were liable to gain
over to their faith, by presents as well as by persuasion,
in order, by that means, to endeavour at converting the

Indians dispersed throughout the country. Neither the

friars nor the nuns of this place seemed at all disposed

to run into the gloomy excesses of devotion; and nothing

could be more sprightly than the conversation of the
latter with strangers at the convent grates. The men
were, certainly, not corrupted by the writings of free-
thinkers. No such exist in the language of the country;
and few Portugueze are acquainted with any other.
There were but two booksellers in Rio. Their shops
contained only books of medicine and divinity. But
the religious system, which held its empire there with
such happy effects so long, bore now some resemblance
to a machine, of which the spring, by its own internal
working, was slackened at length, and wearing out. No
inquisition, or tribunal of the holy office, as it is called,
was established in the Brazils. The ceremonies of reli-
gion were, however, regularly kept up, and even multi-
plied. In the day time bells and sometimes sky-rockets

announced, at every hour, some solemnity performing

in the churches; and after sun-set the streets were
crowded with processions. At every corner was stuck
up, in a glass case, the image of the Virgin Mary, to
which homage was i i paid by thos who passed

near it.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

When walking abroad, men of the lower classes
generally wore cloaks. Those of the middling and
higher ranks never appeared without swords. The
ladies wore their hair hanging down in tresses, tied
with ribands, and adorned with flowers. Their heads
were uncovered. They were very regular in their visits
to the churches, both at matins and vespers. At other
times they were generally seated at their windows or

balconies. Many of them had fine dark eyes, with:

animated countenances. They amused themselves, in
the evenings, in playing on some kind of musical in-
strument, chiefly the harpsichord or guitar. The doors
and windows, at these hours, were thrown open for the
admission of cool air. If a stranger should stop to listen
to the music, it often happened that the father, hus-
band, or brother of the lady who was playing, stept out
and politely invited him to walk in. It was not in-
frequent, also, for ladies to have bunches of flowers in
their hands, which they would sometimes exchange
with gentlemen as they were passing by. This might
be in imitation of the Lisbon ladies, who on particular
days, which are called days of intrusion, throw nose-
gays from their balconies at persons walking under
them. Instances, indeed, of the momentary abandon-
ment of feminine reserve may be traced to ancient
times ; and it must be acknowledged, that much was
related of the extreme forwardness of some of the ladies

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

at Rio. Some of the men were accused of much worse
practices, in yielding to depraved and unnatural ap-
petites. i fr
Among the more innocent pleasures of both sexes
were operas, plays, and masquerades, except when sus-
pended on account of the indisposition of the queen of
Portugal. Company often met at a public garden situate
by the sea side, and at one extremity of the town.
This garden was laid out in grass plats, shrubberies,
and parterres, interspersed with spreading trees, toge-
ther with arched alcoves or bowers of wooden frame-
work, painted green, and decorated with passion-flowers,
jessamines, and other fragrant plants. In these re-
cesses, during the dry season of the year, the gay society
of Rio, after taking exercise in the evening in the walks,
and often after hearing songs and music, sat down to
partake of banquets, accompanied, sometimes, by music
and fire-works ; and the company in this manner often
protracted their pleasures far into the night. Toward the
middle of the garden was a large fountain of artificial
rock-work, with figures of two alligators, of no mean
sculpture, spouting water into a marble bason, in which
aquatic birds, well imitated in bronze, appeared spor-
tively indulging themselves. At a little distance from
this fountain was another imitation, which seemed a
work of supererogation. Much expence and labour
were employed to represent, in copper, painted green,
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the papaye tree, a vegetable natural to the climate, and
of easy and quick growth.

On the side of this garden next the sea was a terrace
of granite, in the middle of which was also a fountain,
with a marble statue of a boy holding in one hand a
bird, from whose bill water gushed into the bason un-
derneath, while from the other hung a label, with the
following words, sou util ainda brincando, meaning his
being useful even in his playfulness.

At the extremities of the terrace were two neat square
buildings like, what in England are called, summer-
houses. In one, the walls were decorated with paintings
representing views of the harbour, and particularly of
the whale fishery that used to be carried on within it,
until the large black whale, which formerly frequented
it, was disturbed and driven away, in consequence of
the increased concourse of shipping. The ceiling of
this summer-house was ornamented with various de-
signs; and the cornice exhibited the several species of
fish peculiar to the country, all in their proper shades
and colours, the whole in shell-work. The ceiling of
the other building was composed of devices wrought in
feathers; and along the cornices were portrayed the
most beautiful of the birds proper to the Brazils, curi-
ously arranged in their natural plumage. On the walls
were eight large paintings, ill executed indeed, but de-

scriptive of the principal productions to which that
VOL. I. Y

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

country was indebted for its opulence, including views
of the diamond and gold mines, shewing the manner in
which they were worked, and the objects of their
search separated from the earth in which they were ori-
ginally enveloped; of the cultivation of the sugar cane,
with the processes for extracting its juice, and granu-
lating it into sugar; of the manner of collecting the
small animals which produce the cochineal, and pre-
paring the rich dye from them; of the culture of the
manioc, with the process of making cassada, which is
the root of that plant after the poisonous juice it con-
tained is expressed from it, and tapioca, which is the fine
sediment deposited at the bottom of the same venomous
juices, after being suffered to settle for some time; and
of the culture and preparation of coffee, rice, and indigo.
In this garden, which was called the passao publico, were
exhibited shews for the amusement of the people; and
its destination to promote the health and pleasure of the
inhabitants was expressed on two granite obelisks in the
walks; on one of which were engraved the words, a
saude do Rio; and on the other, o amor do publico.

Near the town, and close to the sea shore, was a gar-
den of another kind, intended, originally, for promoting
the progress of botany; but chiefly curious, now, for a
small manufacture of cochineal. According to the ob-
servations made, and the information obtained, by Mr.
Barrow, ¢‘ the insect which forms this dye at Rio, is not,
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probably, the same as that which is noticed by Lin-
nzus under the name of coccus cacte coccinelliferi. The
latter is described as flat upon the back, with black
legs, and tapering or awl-shaped horns or antennz.
The insect of Rio is convex, with legs of a clear bright
red in both male and female, and the antenna monili-
form, or bead-like. The male is a delicate and beau-
tiful insect; the colour of the whole body a bright
red, nearly resembling the pigment usually called red
lake. The breast is elliptical, and slightly attached to
the head. The antenna are about half the length of
the body. The legs are of a more brilliant red than
that of the other parts. T'wo fine white filaments, about

¢ three times the length of the insect, project from the extre-

mity of its belly or abdomen. The wings are two, erect,
of a faint straw colour, and of a very delicate texture.
«The female has no wings, is elliptic in its form,
and convex on both sides, but most so on the back,
which is covered with a white downy substance re-
sembling the finest cotton. The abdomen is marked
with transverse ruga or furrows. The mouth is situ-
ate in the breast, having a brown beak, inclining to
a purple tint, that penetrates the plant on which the
insect feeds. Its six legs are of a clear bright red. It
becomes pregnant about twenty days after it is born,
and dies after bringing forth an innumerable off-
spring, of so minute a size as to be easily mistaken

165

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for the eggs only of those insects. For about the space
of a day they remain without any appearance of life
or motion ; but soon, afterwards, shew signs of anima-
tion, and begin to move with great agility over the
surface of the leaf, on which the mother had depo-
sited them. At this time they appear, through a mag-
nifier, like small specks of red unshapen matter, thinly
covered over with a fine cottony down. In three or
four days this downy envelopement becomes visible
to the naked eye: the insect it covered increasing ra-
pidly in size, till the largest is nearly-equal to a grain
of rice. With this increase of size they decrease in
motion, and when arrived at their full growth, they
adhere to the leaf in a torpid state. At this period they
are taken from the plant for use; but, if suffered to re-
main, will deposite their young, as already mentioned.
‘“ Amongst the clusters of these insects, enveloped
in their cotton, there are several cells, of a cylin-
dric form, standing perpendicularly on the surface
of the leaf. These cells are the chrysalides or coc-
coons of the male, and out of which the wings, in
their nascent state, make their first appearance, and
are visible about three days before the perfect insect
is produced. It enjoys its existence, in that state, only
three or four days, during which it impregnates the
females. The plant, on which this insect feeds, is
called at Rio, orumbela, a species of the cactus or
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘ prickly pear, and, probably, the cactus opuntia of
“ Linnaeus. The leaves are thick and fleshy : the upper
‘“ side more flat, or even concave, than the opposite.
‘“ They are somewhat of an oval form, growing without
““ stalks, but rising oneimmediately fromthe other’s edge,
« as well as from the stem, and armed with round and ta-
‘“ pering prickles, about an inch, or nearly so, in length.
‘“ These plants grow, sometimes, tothe height of twenty

‘“ feet ; but they are generally prevented from rising’

‘“ above eight feet, being a size more convenient to the
‘“ manufacturer; and at which the leaves are thought
‘“ to contain juices most nutritious to the insects. The
‘““ young leaves are of a dark green, but incline towards
‘“ a yellow colour as they advance in age. The internal
‘“ substance of the leaf is of the same colour with its ex-
‘“ terior surface. It is easy to discern when many insects
‘“ are upon the plants; they first appear like a white
¢“ powder thinly spread upon its flat or hollow side,
‘“ which 1s marked, soon afterwards, with small protu-
¢ berances of the same white downy substance, already
“¢ said to resemble the finest cotton.

‘“ Another insect is found upon the cactus, and is
‘“ supposed to feed upon the coccus or cochineal insect.
““ In 1ts perfect state it bears a strong resemblance to a
‘“ four-winged insect, called ichneumon ; but, on exa-
‘“ mination, is found to be a fly with two wings only.

167

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168 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Riode ‘“ The larva, or caterpillar of this fly, insinuates itself
Se “into the cotton with which the coccus is enveloped,
‘“ and 1s scarcely distinguishable from the latter, except
““ that it 1s a little more elongated, with somewhat
‘“ longer legs, and that the cotton does not stick to it;
‘“ whereas from the coccus it is with difficulty sepa-
‘“ rated. When this fly is prepared to change its skin,
““ it creeps out of the cotton upon. the naked part of the
“leaf, increases quickly in its bulk, and its colour
‘“ changes from that of a bright red to a clear yellow,
*“ with rings of brownish spots about its body. In a
““ few days it becomes torpid; but, soon afterwards,
‘“ contracting its rings with violent agitation, it deposites
+a large globule of pure red colouring matter ; after
‘“ which it immediately hangs itself upon the prickles
‘“ of the leaf, and becomes a chrysalis, out of which
¢¢ issues, shortly, the perfect fly. From the circum-
stance of the colouring matter being deposited by this
insect, previous to its change into the chrysalis state,
it might be inferred, that any other insect, feeding on
the same plant, would be productive likewise of the
‘¢ same colouring matter. Yet the leaf itself constantly
¢¢ gave out, only, a transparent gelatinous fluid, per-
““ fectly colourless. The fruit, indeed, or fig of the cactus,
“ when ripe, contains a scarlet juice, which colours
some of the excretions of those who eat it. The Plate

 

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

¢“ No. 12, will shew, better than any written description
‘“ can, the respective forms of both insects, as well as
‘ the plant on which they are found.

““ The profit to the Portugueze at Rio, from the co-
‘“ chineal, 1s inconsiderable, owing to an error in the
‘« preparation. Twice or thrice a week the slaves, ap-
‘“ propriated to this employment, go among the cactus
‘ plants and pick off, carefully, with a bamboo twig,
‘“ shaped somewhat into the form of a pen, every full
““ grown insect they can find, with many not yet ar-
‘ rived to their perfect state ; the consequence of which
““ is, that the plants are never half stocked with insects,
“ most of the females being destroyed before they had
““ deposited their young. The natives of Mexico pursue
‘“ 2 method very different. As soon as the periodical
““ rains are over, and the weather is warmer, as well as
““ drier, they fix, on the prickles of the cactus leaves,
““ small parcels of the finest moss, serving as nests to
‘“ contain, each, ten or a dozen full grown female in-
““ sects. These, in the course of a few days, bring forth
““ an innumerable tribe of young, spreading themselves
““. over the leaves and branches of the plant, till they
‘“ become attached to those spots which they find most
““ favourable for supplying nutritious juice ; where,
““ soon acquiring their full growth, they remain mo-
‘“ tionless, and then are gathered off for use: a sufficient
‘““ number being always left for the production of new

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

“ broods. The insects are soon converted into cochi-
‘“ neal by a very simple process ; but if, @n corporal suf-
““ ferance, the poor beetle feels a pang as great as when a grant
“« dies, this process is not more simple than it is cruel.
«« The insects, which were collected in a wooden bowl,

« are thickly spread, from thence, upon a flat dish of

‘« earthen ware, and placed alive over a charcoal fire,
‘“ where they are slowly roasted until the downy cover-
‘“ ing disappears, and the aqueous juices of the animal
«« are totally evaporated. During this operation the in-
‘« sects are constantly stirred about with a tin ladle, and,
‘ sometimes, water 1s sprinkled upon them, to prevent
‘« absolute torrefaction, which would destroy the colour,
«« and reduce the insect to a coal: but a little habit
‘« teaches when to remove them from the fire. They
‘“ then appear like so many dark round reddish grains,
«« and take the name of cochineal, preserving so little
‘« the original form of the insect, that this precious dye
‘ was long known and sought in Europe before natu-
«« ralists had determined whether it was an animal, ve-
‘« getable, or mineral substance.

‘“ The garden at Rio does not, annually, produce above
“« 30 pounds weight of this commodity; tho by proper
“ treatment, from the same numberof plants, ten timesthe
‘« quantity might be obtained. At Maricaand Saquarima,
“ both places contiguous to Cape Frio, are considerable
«« plantations of the cactus, which are propagated easily
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘ from cuttings set into the earth during the cold and
““ rainy season; tho they afterwards thrive least where
“ excluded from the sun. The insects breed and are
““ collected, in dry weather, from October until March.
« The preparation of cochineal is encouraged by the
““ trade being laid open, which had formerly been a
‘“ monopoly to the crown.”

Beside this species of manufacture in the neighbour-
hood of Rio, another, of which an exclusive privilege
was given to a company paying one-fifth of its profits
to the crown, was carried on within the harbour, and
opposite to the town. Thither was brought, for the pur-
pose of being converted into oil, the blubber or firm fat
of the black whales, no longer, indeed, caught, as for-
merly, in the environs, but on shores more free from the
busy haunts of men. The whale-bone or cartilages of
the jaw were, also, properly separated and cleansed here,

before they were sent to Europe. The white whale,

which supplies the spermaceti, is often sought for as far
as the Pacific ocean. An English ship from those seas
was lately come into Rio harbour for refreshments. She
had taken sixty-nine whales, each worth, upon an ave-
rage, two hundred pounds. Some are of a size to fetch
one thousand. The recent discovery that the muscular
part of animals is convertible into a matter similar to

spermaceti, may, perhaps, hereafter diminish the profits

of those distant adventures.
VOL, I. Z

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In another part of the harbour of Rio, not far from
the town, at a place called Val Longo, are the:warehouses
for the reception; and preparation for sale, of the slaves
imported, chiefly, from Angola and Benguela on the coast
of Africa. This spot was appropriated to the purpose
of cleansing, anointing, fattening, rendering sleek and
saleable, and concealing the defects of, this class of
beings, who seemed little sensible of the humiliation of
their condition. About five thousand were usually sold,
every year, at Rio, out of twenty thousand purchased
for the whole of the Brazils, The average price was
about twenty-eight pounds sterling each. Before they
were shipped from Africa, a duty of ten thousand reis a -
head is paid to the queen of Portugal's agent there.. The
whole amounted to about sixty thousand pounds a year,
which: goes into her privy purse, and is not considered
as part of the public revenue. In the whole of the
Brazils there were supposed to be, at least, six hundred
thousand slaves, born in Africa, or descended from
those who were. The whites were computed to amount
toi about two. hundred thousand. The proportion of
blacks to whites in the town of Rio was supposed to be
much greater, there being in it at least. forty thousand
of the former, including such as had been emancipated,
to about three thousand of the latter.

Whatever may be the suffering of slaves, under task
masters upon plantations; those residing in the town
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

wore no appearance of wretchedness. ~The human
frame feels indeed fewer wants, and is therefore exposed
to fewer miseries, in a warm climate than in a cold one.
In the latter, a dwelling to shelter from the incléemency
of the weather, garments for the body, and ‘artificial
heat in winter, are almost as necessary as food to any
thing like comfortable existence. These articles may,
with less inconvenience, be dispensed with, or a suffi-
ciency of them more easily be provided, in tropical
climates. ‘Evenias to food, the spontaneous bounty: of
nature supplies it more readily in warmer than in colder
countries ; and in the latter; fermented liquors, to be
procured only by art and labour, are sometimes requi-
site; whereas; within the tropics, every stream supplies
what; in most cases, is there more grateful, as well as
salutary. The West India slave has not, therefore, much
too envy the peasants of ‘many! European kingdoms:
The plantation: slaves in the Brazils have, also, two days
out of seven for their own purposés, which is more
than is allowed in the West India islands: The slaves
in the Brazils are upbraided for being addicted to steal-
ing and lying ; which indeed appear to be the vices
of ‘their condition every where. This condition is
hereditary ‘through the mother, and is not confined to
colour. There were many at Rio in that state, of every
tinge between black and white. The Africans seemed
naturally of a gay and active disposition, easily recon-

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

ciled to their situation, and enjoying fully whatever
share of pleasure happened to come within their reach.
They seldom sought intoxication as a resource against
poignant feelings; or for the purpose of stifling reflec-
tions upon their condition. They were fond of dancing
and music; and the black drivers of hackney chaises
at Rio were, in the intervals of leisure, often heard
playing on the guitar upon their stands. Many slaves
were the property of the crown, of whom about ten
thousand were employed in the diamond mines, where
a stone had been lately found larger and more precious,
it is said, than any that the Empress of Russia had pur-
chased, or indeed that have hitherto been discovered.
Several slaves were also attached to convents. The Be-
nedictines alene had a thousand upon their plantations.
The monks of this order, being very opulent, exercised
offices of charity; but delighted more in those of hos-
pitality. They pressed the Chinese interpreters, be-
longing to the Embassy, as priests of the same religion,
to reside in the convent with them, during their stay at
Rio; and entertained them very handsomely. The Be-
nedictine fathers, in the number of their slaves, had an
opportunity of observing that the offspring, from the
connection between blacks and whites, were generally
endowed with much intelligence and ingenuity. Some
of these they bred up carefully, and instructed with
such success, as to think themselves no longer obliged to
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

send persons to the universities of Portugal for a literary
education. These friars mentioned, with some degree of
triumph, that a person of a mixed breed had been lately
promoted to a learned professorship at Lisbon.

~The original inhabitants of the Brazils were found
not to be reducible to a state of slavery, or even to the
domestic habits of civilized society. Children of some
of those Brazilians had been taken into Portugueze fa-
milies, and uncommon pains bestowed upon their edu-
cation, out of motives of speculative curiosity, as well as
those of benevolence and humanity ; but so intractable,
it is said, their nature proved, that they constantly re-
turned to their original habits of savage life, without re-
taining any of the principles which might restrain their

passions or caprices. These people, tho poor, seldom

offered themselves for hire, and were as seldom coveted
by the Portugueze, except for rowing boats, in which
they were remarkably expert. In their persons they
generally were somewhat under the middle size, mus-
cular, stout, and active, of a light brown complexion,
black, strong, uncurling hair, with very little beard,
and long dark eyes, which discovered no mark of im-
becillity of intellect. Nor did the turn of their features
convey any character of meanness or vulgarity. On
the contrary, their looks and expression were intelligent
and distinct. They seemed to find an irresistible charm
in the enjoyment of boundless freedom ; and, nourishing,

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

probably, an ‘hereditary: and implacable antipathy: te
the invaders of their country, ‘they shun: and withdraw
from every considerable settlement of Portugueze ;: but

massacre individuals of that mation, without remorse;

wherever they are found scattered or unprotected. Much
of the coast between Rio and Bahia was still inhabited or
frequented by those savages, which circumstance pre:
vented ‘any regular communication, by land; between
those two places. art ; [6 (BIH
~ In the vicinity of the town of Rio the roads were not

‘passable many miles for carriages. In an excursion

from ‘thence to the westward by Mr. Barrow. and two

other gentlemen of the: Embassy, accompanied by a

Portugueze inhabitant of Rio, it appeared that little in
dustry was exerted thereabouts in the cultivation of ‘the
soil, or improvement of the country. It consisted chiefly
in raising garden vegetables for the whites, and rice and
manioc for ‘the blacks. Wheat was found: to'grow in
other parts of the Brazils, with an increase beyond what
is: known in Europe. The corn mill, usedby them;
was of a’ simplicity of construction ‘worthy of being
described. ‘One of them happened to be erected ona
stream close to the forest, which’ the gentlemen. of
this party meant to penetrate. A wheel, a few feet only
in diameter, was placed horizontally, much below the
current of a stream, as it fell from a steep bank, and
was received in hollows, ten or twelve in number, so
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

obliquely scolloped into the upper rim of the wheel, as
to impel it to a quick rotatory motion, while its upright
shaft, passing through an opening in the centre of an
immoveable millstone above: the wheel, but of a nar-
rower diameter, was fixed toa smaller millstone, which,
forced round with the ‘motion of the wheel and depen-
dent shaft, crushed between it and the: larger stone
beneath, the grain insinuated between them from a
hopper.. Thus that effect! was produced, by the means
of. one wheel only, which is generally the result of a
much more expensive and complicated machinery. It
is said that a similar mill is in use in the Crimea:

The forest already mentioned, was found to abound
in palms and mastic wood, also the mangoe and gou-
yava, and ferns growing to the size of trees, beside many
other vegetables, never observed before by those who
were then travelling through it. Of these, it is to be
hoped that, a. full description will soon appear in a bo-
tanical- work, upon the plants ofthis country, promised
by a Franciscan friar who resided long in Rio, and
gives, somewhat quaintly, the name of Flora Fluminensis to
his intended publication. The ipecacuanha plant, grow-
ing at St. Catharine's within the government of Rio, will
there also probably be described. “At present, tho its root
hath been so long in-use; as a valuable article in medi-
cine, to what class, or kind, or species, in the botanical
system it belongs, is not yet accurately known. At the

177

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178 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Riode request of one of the gentlemen of the Embassy a mes-

BE in senger was sent to St. Gatharine’s for a specimen of it.

What was brought was an herbaceous plant, about three

feet high, with a single stem, and lanceolated leaves ;

but as it was not then either in flower or seed, its proper
character could not be ascertained.

There was at Rio a collector of birds and insects,
who, among other curious articles, had the palamedea,
or anhinga, with a strong nail or spur at each flexure of
its wings, and a horn, of about six inches length, grow-
ing from its forehead: a bird very rarely to be seen in
the cabinets of Europe. The size and vivid hue of
many of the flowers, throughout the forest, and the
gaudy plumage of the birds, which came occasionally
in sight, were indeed striking. The woods, it is said,
abound in snakes, some extremely large and formidable.
Their hissing noise sets the hearer on his guard, and
they seldom, without provocation, advance to an attack.
No sound, however, was heard to alarm the present tra-
vellers. The people of the country go about, indeed,
every where with all the indifference of security : their
minds little affected by the apprehension of an evil, tho
near to them, and of which they had often heard, but
which they had never experienced in their own persons.
In like manner the danger, for example, from the bite
of mad animals in Europe, notwithstanding the dread-
ful ‘instances which, at a particular season, are known

 
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

frequently to happen, disturbs not the thoughts, nor
interrupts the occupations or amusements, of those most
exposed to so dreadful a calamity.

The forest, above described, led to the cilliivated vil
ley of Tijouca, situate, as it were, in the bottom of a
funnel, being surrounded on all sides by mountains,
excepting to the southward, where a small opening ad-
mitted an arm of the sea. The valley was watered by a
clear stream, which, on first entering into it, was preci-
pitated down a steep and broad rock of granite, forming
a magnificent cascade. Very little labour appeared ne-
cessary in the plantations of Tijouca. It was no uncom-
mon sight to meet with indigo, manioc, coffee, cacao or
chocolate trees, sugar canes, plantains, and orange and lime
trees, all growing promiscuously, and some spontane-
ously, in the space of twenty square yards. Coffee and
indigo were the principal objects of attention. The tem-
perature of the valley was excessively hot, owing to its
confined situation, and the reflection of the sun’s rays
from the sides of the mountains, which in many places
were rocky. Fahrenheit’s thermometer, about four in
the afternoon, stood, in the shade, at eighty-eight de-
grees. The party took shelter at the house of a friend
of their Portugueze companion. Here they were hospi-
tably treated, and passed the night. The warmth of the

weather removed all necessity of bedding. A neat woven
VOL. |, Aa

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—_——
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EMBASSY TO GHINA.

mat with an elastic pillow were placed upon a platform,
raised somewhat from the floor: and there the guests
reposed, with no covering but night-gowns.

Several districts of the government of Rio produced
cotton, sugar, coftee, and cacao or chocolate, rice, pepper,
and tobacco, in great abundance. That of Rio Grandé

yielded plenty of excellent wheat. The vinegrewinmany

spots in great perfection ; but the grape is not suffered to
be pressed for wine, as such a process might interfere
with the sale of the same article from Portugal. The
whole of the Brazils was divided into eight independent
governments, beside that of Rio de Janeiro, of which the
governor alone retained the name of viceroy of the Bra-
zils. The others were those of Para or Amazons, Ma-
ragnon, Fernambuca, Bahia, Santo Paulo, Matto Grosso,
Minas Geraes, and Minas Goyaves. Formerly Bahia dos
Todos os Santos was the principal seat of government,
and chief mart for commerce, in the Brazils ; but the
discovery and improvement of the gold and diamond
mines, within about one hundred leagues of Rio de Ja-
neiro, and communicating immediately with it, gave a
decided preponderancy to the latter. All the provinces
were growing fast into opulence and importance. They
manufactured, of late, several of the most necessary ar-
ticles for their own consumption ; and their produce
was so considerable, that the balance of trade began to
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

be already in their favour; and remittances of bullion
were made to them from Europe, in return for the over-
plus of their exports beyond their imports.

In the administration of the Marquis de Pombal, so
long prime minister in Portugal, these colonies were de-
livered from some monopolies and restraints which had
contributed todepressthem. The parentstate is again, how-
ever, accused by them of jealousy attheir present progress
towards wealth, and consequent power and indepen-
dence; which it was endeavouring to smother and re-
press by new restrictive and injurious regulations. But

the people begin to consider themselves as children too
robust to be strangled in the cradle ; and that the crown
of Portugal must either transfer the seat of its empire to
the Brazils, or leave them to take their chance, to unfold
and exert their native powers, uninfluenced by the au-
thority, and unrepressed by the terror, of a distant scep-
tre. They seemed to inquire, with an uncommon degree
of interest, into the progress of the French revolution, as
if they foresaw the possibility of a similar event among
themselves. This was, however, before the accounts of
the sanguinary horrors, which took place in the progress
of it, had disgusted every feeling mind from any in-
clination to follow its example.

The project of removing the seat of the Portugueze
government to the Brazils was once, in fact, seriously in
contemplation with the Marquis de Pombal, when that.

181

Rio de
Janeiro.

 
182

Rio de

Janeiro.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

country was invaded by the Spanish forces in 1761;
and calculations were made, and precautions taken, as
to the number of vessels necessary to transport across
the Atlantic the royal family, with the principal officers
of the court, and their several attendants. This project
vanished with the danger that gave rise to it; and the
Brazils continued to be considered as a colony destined,
exclusively, to enrich the parent state.

The duties which the agents of the latter levied upon
the importation of goods from Lisbon and Oporto, at
Rio de Janeiro, were twelve per cent. upon the value of
each article. The chief duties paid at Lisbon, on the
commodities of the Brazils, were as follow; upon gold,
one per cent. ; coffee, eight per cent. ; sugar, rice, and
skins, ten per cent. ; indigo, twelve per cent. ; planks,
seventeen per cent. ; and rum, four dollars on every pipe
of one hundred and eighty gallons. All that kind of

wood, commonly called red or Brazil wood, and also

“all large ship timber was claimed as the property of the

crown. One-fifth of all the gold extracted from the
mines was exacted also by the government; and when-
ever any diamonds happened to be found in a gold mine,
it was no longer allowed to search there for that metal :
all diamond mines being seized as, exclusively, belong-
ing to the crown. Every manufacture in the Brazils was
said to be discouraged by the Portugueze government ;
tho many, already, were established. Such was the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

change wrought lately there in the minds of men in
that great colony, that some noble Portugueze who were
settled there disdained not to be concerned in those
manufactures. One gentleman of considerable rank had
lately erected a rice work close to Rio, in which he
employed sixty slaves in preparing that grain for use.
He had been a military officer, and could never have
taken greater pleasure in shewing the regular evolutions
of his soldiers under arms, than he feels at present in
shewing the mills by which he frees the grains of rice
from the pellicle closely adhering to them. However,
there appeared nothing particular in his method, except
the use of siliceous sand, of which the small sharp angles
are found to assist materially in the operation; which
being over, the sand was easily separated from the
grain by sieves, with apertures sufficiently large to
suffer it to pass through them, but impervious to the
grains of rice. The same gentleman bred his eldest son

to commerce, as likely to be the most important profes-

sion in the Brazils; mor did this disposition appear sin-
gular. Trade was already rising there above the many
impediments thrown in its way from home; and even
several mechanical employments began to be exercised.

The people of Rio had been, of late, prohibited from
working up even the gold of their own mines; and the
tools and instruments, used by the artificers for such
purposes, were seized and eonfiscated by the strong

183

Rio de
Janeiro.
eT
184

Rio de
Janeiro,

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

hand of arbitrary power. Yet notwithstanding the mo-
nopolies, prohibitions, and heavy taxes, the whole re-
venue from the Brazils, was not said to be equal to a
million sterling, of which the expences of their govern-
ment consume about a third. The taxes were severely
felt, particularly in the interior provinces, where the
carriage and transit duties increased the price of every
article so enormously, that a bottle of port wine is said,
for instance, to cost ten shillings sterling to the consumer.

The rising spirit of the people, little patient of the
hardships imposed upon them by the mother country,
led, not long since, to a conspiracy at Minas Geraes, re-
markable, and indeed formidable, as some of the prin-
cipal officers of the government there, both laity and
clergy, entered into it. It appears that the troops sent
there from Europe were seldom afterwards called home.
The civil officers, except the viceroy, were allowed also
to be stationary. These persons, tho natives generally
of Portugal, soon changed their original affection for
the mother country into an attachment to that, where
they were likely to spend their days; and were some-
times tempted to sacrifice to their own, the interest
of their employers. Their views, on the present oc-
casion, were discovered in time to prevent the in-
tended fatal consequences; but it was found necessary
to march a considerable number of troops, from the
coast, into the back country, to maintain tranquillity.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Good policy, as well as clemency, confined capital pu-
nishment to one only of the conspirators. The rest wereba-
nished to the Portugueze settlements on the coast of Africa.

Whatever difficulties the Portugueze may be likely
to encounter in securing their American possessions
against internal enemies, they seemed to have taken no
mean precautions against any foreign attack. With re-
gard to Rio, Captain Parish remarks that ¢° Portugal,
‘“ from the relatively low state of its military and marine
““ establishments, might find it impracticable to convey
succour to that distant colony, after being once engaged
‘“ in a war with any European power ; and must, there-
‘“ fore, provide for its defence independently of any
hope of further assistance. The best constructed for-
tifications would, perhaps, be insufficient to answer
‘“ such a purpose; for tho amply garrisoned and sup-
““ plied, it could not be expected to hold out many
weeks against a well conducted siege, undertaken
with an adequate force. It is perhaps on this account
that the Portugueze have not erected here any very
considerable work. The defences of the place consist
in several small forts and batteries, detached from each
““ other, but so disposed as to throw every impediment
in the way of an enemy, on his entering the harbour,
and on his subsequent attempts upon the shore. Should
‘“ he, however, succeed in both, the military establish-
‘““ ment of the country is such as to enable it, with a

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Rode “good position, to face him in the field. This estab-

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= “ lishment consists of two squadrons of cavalry, two
““ regiments of artillery, six regiments of infantry, two

«« battalions ‘of disciplined militia, beside above two

‘“ hundred disciplined free Negroes; making, in the

‘“ whole, a body of, at least, ten thousand men, ‘exclu-

““ sively of a very numerous registered, but undisci-

«« plined, militia, of whom a considerable proportion is

¢¢ in the city and its neighbourhood. The entrance of
¢¢ the harbour, which 1s scarcely a mile from point to
“« point, iscrossed in every direction by heavy batteries.
Ships, too, in returning their fire, would have to labour
under the disadvantage of a swell, occasioned by the
¢« bar which runs across, but outside, the harbour’s
« mouth. The fort of Santa Cruz is a work of some
““ strength, and the principal defence of the harbour.
«« Its general height is from twenty-four to thirty feet.
‘« It mounts twenty-three guns towards the sea, and
“« thirty-three to the westward and northward. It stands
‘« upon the low point of a smooth rock, from the body
of which it is separated by a fissure ten or twelve feet
in width. It is flanked by batteries to the eastward
and westward ; and is seen and protected by a regular

‘“ front for musquetry, which runs between the hills.
¢“ The guns of the fort of Santa Cruz, and others,
<¢ were fired on the birthday of the Queen of Portugal,
¢“ and, from their report, were judged to be heavy

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““ island. The highest part of it, which looks towards
““ the town, is about eighty feet above the water. On
«¢ it is constructed a small square fort. The island lowers
‘“ gradually on the eastern side to the water's edge, and
‘“ is occupied by an irregular stone line, having occa-
‘“ sional flanks. - It is, however, low, in some parts not
‘“ more than eight feet above the rock ; and it has no
¢¢ ditch. Thelength of the island is about three hundred
““ yards. It mounts forty-six guns, twenty of these facing
‘“ the south and south-east, and the remainder looking
““ to the opposite points. The parapet wall, now build-
‘¢ ing along the front of the oven, will afford a good line
+ for musquetry and light guns.”

Whatever may be the political fate of Rio de J aneiro
its natural appearance must always attract notice. It
presents on every side bold features to the view. Its
harbour, mountains, woods, and rocks, are all upon a
grand scale. Its productions flourish with the ‘vigour
and freshness of youth: Nothing looks naked, arid, or
decaying.

~ Doctor Gillan noticed that ** the high conical rocks,
‘“ at the entrance of the harbour of Rio, and the sur-
‘“ rounding hills, were all of granite, in which the only

* circumstance remarkable was the large proportion
VOL. 1, Bb
188 “EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Rode, of feld-spath it contained. About two miles within __
Janeiro. t

«« the harbour, on the south-west side, was one high

 

““ rock, entirely composed of columnar masses, bearing
«« the resemblance of basaltes. It rested upon clay. In
«« all the quarries of granite it is found incumbent upon
““ clay and sand. There were three species of granite
*“ here. The fst, red-coloured, soft, and shivery. The
«« second, deep blue-coloured, harder, and of a closer
« texture; and the last, of a whitish shining colour,
¢« containing much of mica, and little feld-spath; its
«« texture soft, and incapable of a good polish.”

The gentlemen of the Embassy, in their observations
were indulged with greater liberty than is usually al-
lowed at Rio to any strangers. The viceroy sent his
own barge to convey them round the harbour, and made
an offer of any other civility in his power. He testified
a desire of shewing every mark of respect and attention
to the Embassador ; received him with distinguished ho-
nours on his coming on shore; provided proper accom-
modations for him and his suite ; and offered a guard to
attend upon his person. His Excellency, who had been
much indisposed at sea, recovered his health on shore
within a fortnight ; and anxious to arrive at the place of
his destination, still so distant, returned on board before
the ships were entirely provided with all the necessa-
ries for the prosecution of the voyage. The Portugueze
agent, however, now got every thingready very quickly.
- EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Wood, water, and provisions were supplied in such
quantities, as to supersede the necessity of stopping at
‘the Cape of Good Hope; and to enable the ships to. con-
tinue their route, with little delay or deviation, to the
Chinese seas. They weighed their anchors on the se-
venteenth of December, 1792.

Ships sailing from Rio de Janeiro seldom work out of
the harbour against the wind blowing from the sea, but
for the benefit of the land breeze, move in the mornings,
at which time the harbour empties itself of the mass of
water thrown into it by the sea wind at night. This
reflux 1s stronger, often, than the wind. Its course is
along the bays on the eastern shore; and it afterwards
sets upon the point of Santa Cruz. The Lion was car-
ried into that part of the stream where it ran with the
greatest impetuosity. The ship bore directly towards the
rock, and, in continuing to move, must have struck

upon it speedily. The alarm instantly spread among

those who best could judge of the imminence of the
danger. One of the officers let fall the words, there is an
end to the expedition ! To those who had set their hearts
on its accomplishment, which was indeed the case of
~ most persons embarked in the undertaking, no spectacle
could be more afflicting than the prospect now exhi-
bited, and no consequence more painful than what was
foreseen to follow from it. The ship was approaching
to the rock so nearly as to be already in the wash of the

189

Rio de
Janeiro.
HTTPS,

 
190

Rio de

Janeiro.

 

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

sea, or in the waves which dash against the shore, when,
fortunately, the anchor held, which had been lowered
from the ship, and saved her. She was afterwards
warped out by boats. On sounding near the rock, it
was found to be nearly perpendicular, and that the
ship’s sides might have struck against it, without the
keel’s touching any bottom.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

CHAPTER V1.

PASSAGE TO THE SOUTHERN PART OF THE ATLANTIC, AND
OF THE INDIAN OCEAN. VIEW OF THE ISLANDS OF TRIS-
TAN D ACUNHA IN THE FORMER, AND OF THOSE OF ST.
PAUL AND AMSTERDAM IN THE LATTER.

Ix a former chapter it was observed that the wind,
which in European climates is found to be so variable,
that an idea of inconstancy is generally conveyed by a
comparison with it, ceases to have that quality between,
and near, the tropics. The steady motion of the atmo-
sphere in those parts, with an uniform tendency from
the eastward to the westward, which renders voyages in
the latter direction so certain and expeditious, becomes
a most serious obstruction to a return by the same route.
It was the observation of these unchangeable gales, that
so much alarmed the crew of Columbus’s ship, when he
went in quest of the western world. They feared that
this wind, tho so favourable to his present pursuit, would
prevent them from revisiting their country ; and their
resentment was so strongly excited against him, that all
the firmness of his mind, and resources of his genius,
were necessary to prevent him from its fatal conse-
quences. On his return home he judged that, instead

191

Passage to
the Indian
Ocean.

 
192

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Passage to Of attempting to stem, in the same track, the force of

the Indian
Ocean.

 

winds so constantly adverse to his retrograde course to
Europe, it would be expedient to proceed nearly up-
on one meridian, from the Equator, till he could get
again into the variable winds, of some of which he
might avail himself, to gain the port from whence he
originally had sailed. And this is the rule which since

has been mostly followed in voyages to the eastward.

Tho the influence of the land of South America often
counteracts, in some degree, the general tendency of the
trade winds, that effect is more conspicuous at a still
greater distance than Rio from the line; and the Lion
and Hindostan removed accordingly, from thence, in a
southerly direction, till they arrived in thirty-seven
degrees of southern latitude, where the westerly winds
are found to prevail in most seasons, and to favour a di-
rect course to Asia. In those latitudes distant from the
line, the winds are frequently as boisterous as they are
variable. Every precaution was taken to guard against
their ill effects, by putting the ships, while they re-
mained in the harbour of Rio, in a proper condition to
bear foul weather, by all the means that art could fur-
nish, and some of which could not be applied at sea. It
1s certain, that few of the misfortunes which happen
upon that element really are inevitable. From neglect,
or dangerous economy, vessels frequently venture out,
ill-found, upon the ocean, as if it were not capable of
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

being disturbed by storms ; and are in danger of perish-
ing, if in this state they are overtaken by bad weather.
Every part of the Lion was carefully examined.
Whatever injury, however trifling, had been suffered
in the course of the voyage out, was solidly repaired.
The standing rigging, or those rope-ladders by which
the sailors ascend to the summits of the masts, and
which, being firmly fixed and stretched on each side
from the hull or body of the ship to the masts’ sides,
keep them steady in their places, is apt to become slack
by the influence of the tropical heat. This was set
up, or contracted anew, to answer its original purpose.
Some of the suspected masts were changed, and others
fished, as itis called, or strengthened by planks fastened
by cordage round them. The sails which had been
thinned and weakened by use, and were no longer fit
to resist rude blasts, being now properly fair weather
sails, were laid by for similar occasions, and replaced
with canvas yet unworn. These precautions were not
found useless ; and prevented ‘disasters which the sud-
den gusts, that in this part of the voyage were experi-
enced, would otherwise have probably occasioned.
During the continuance of strong gales, gentlemen
who had suffered by sea sickness, and whose constitu-
tions were so peculiar as not to be much fortified by the
habit of being at sea, were again affected from the in-
creased agitation of the ship by the troubled waves. One

195

Passage to
the Indian
Ocean.
194

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Passage to person, himself of the medical profession, and who had

the Indian
Ocean.

 

observed others labouring under the usual attack and
symptoms of sea sickness, perceived a few circumstances
so uncommon in his own case, that he did not think it
altogether uninteresting to describe his situation. ‘¢ He
¢t felt,” he said, ¢* at first a sickness in his stomach, fol-
““ lowed by a retching, when he threw up whatever he
‘“ had taken into it; then green, and afterwards yellow
‘“ bile, to which succeeded a thick, mucilaginous, in-
‘“ sipid fluid, which he considered to be the gastric
““ juice; and lastly, grumous blood. Before he vomited
‘“ the last, he felt a sensation as if his stomach were
“ twisting together, and which motion, he supposed,
‘“ produced the hemorrhage. Had the blood proceeded
‘“ from the lungs, he judged, it would have been spu-
‘“ mous, or mixed with air bubbles. He felt constantly
‘“ a nausea in his mouth. His salivary glands swelled,
‘“ and the saliva became thickened and vitiated. His
““ mind grew indifferent to all things, either past or fu-

-~

ture, and even to his existence. Regret and hope were
‘“ equally extinct within his breast. His head felt light
and sore, and as if its sutures were separated from each
other. It likewise ached; and he had alternate sensa-
tions of violent heat, and chilling cold. He thought
he felt the inversion of the peristaltic motion, and of
its actual tendency upwards from the intestines to the
mouth. Whatever he swallowed he returned with no

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195

¢¢ alteration of it in the stomach. The bare mention of Passage to

“« food, solid or liquid, was loathsome to him.” Another
of the passengers continued, likewise, but in a less de-
gree, to be affected by every violent motion of the ship.
The rest not only bore the voyage well, but were, in
general, healthy, and in good spirits. Their minds were
not corroded with present cares ; and they had an object
of desire constantly present to their imagination, and to
which they were every day approaching. It was soon
discovered, that the only way to avoid that languor,
which hangs upon passengers sometimes for want of
occupation, was for each to fix to himself a task, the
performance of which would employ every moment of
his leisure. The youngest of them followed the example
of the midshipmen, in endeavouring to become ac-
quainted with every mast, yard, rope, and sail belong-
ing to the ship, as well as the manceuvres of her ma-
nagement, and the theory of navigation. He was em-
ployed likewise, as well as a few other gentlemen,
in obtaining from the Chinese interpreters, some in-
struction in the language of the country where they
hoped to arrive soon. Most of the rest had recourse,
for amusement and information, to books, of which the

the Indian
Ocean.
Ces

Embassador, Sir Erasmus Gower, and another person

on board, had provided a considerable store. ‘Most mo-

ments of recreation were passed upon the quarter-deck,
VOL. I. Cec
196

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Passage to Where every one appeared with all the regularity and

the Indian
Ocean.

 

decorum of a public walk. |

In a ship of war the rank of every person belonging
to it is maintained with appropriate distinctions ; and
proper subordination constantly observed. That side of
the deck which the current of the wind first strikes, or
what 1s called the windward side, is always considered
as the post of honour. This side is reserved for the cap-
tain, who is an absolute monarch, while on board ; and
also for his lieutenants, the master, surgeon, purser, and
cabin passengers. The opposite, or leeward side, is free
for midshipmen, surgeon’s and master’s mates, and a few
other petty officers; while the main deck and ferecastle,
or fore part of the ship, are occupied by the remainder
of the crew. On most fair evenings the Embassa-
dor’s band of music, consisting of very good perfor-
mers, and sometimes joined by amateurs, entertained
a numerous audience, with little more interruption
than in a public concert-room ashore. The manceu-
vres of the ship were generally carried on with little
noise; and very seldom with any of those impreca-
tions which formerly were deemed necessary to enforce
obedience.
~The navigation was continued in the parallel of thirty-
seven degrees for some days, with a favourable breeze,
as was expected, from the westward. On the thirty-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

first of December, 1792, the islandsof Tristan d’Acunha
came in sight, the largest bearing that name only; the

“others subdistinguished by the appellations of Inacces-

sible, and Nightingale islands. ¢ Inaccessible,” as Sir

Erasmus Gower observes, ¢¢ seems to deserve that name,

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being a high, bluff, as well as apparently barren,
plain, about nine miles in circumference, and has a
very forbidding appearance. There is a high rock
detached from it at the south end. Its latitude is
thirty-seven degrees nineteen minutes south ; its lon-
gitude eleven degrees fifty minutes west from Green-
wich. This rude looking spot may be seen at twelve
or fourteen leagues distance. Nightingale island is
irregular. in its form, with a hollow in the middle, and
is about seven or eight miles in circumference, with
small rocky isles at its southern extremity. It is de-
scribed as having anchorage on the north-east side.
Its latitude is thirty-seven degrees twenty-nine mi-
nutes south ; and longitude eleven degrees forty-eight
minutes west from Greenwich. It may be seen at seven
or eight leagues distance. The largest of those three
islands, which, comparatively, may be called the great

“1sle of Tristan d’Acunha, is very high, and may be

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seen at twenty-five leagues distance. It seems not
to exceed in circumference fifteen miles. A part of
the island towards the north rises perpendicularly
from the sea to a height apparently of a thousand feet,
or more. A level then commences, forming what

197

Tristan
d’Acunha.

 
198

Tristan
d’Acunha,

meee eee.
FRAT

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘among seamen 1s termed table land, and extending
‘« towards the centre of the island; from whence a co-
““ nical mountain rises, as exhibited in the opposite en-
‘“ graving, not unlike in appearance to the Peak of
‘“ Teneriffe, when seen from the bay of Santa Cruz.

<« Boats were sent to sound, and to examine the shore
‘“ for a convenient place to land and procure water. In
“ consequence of their report, the Lion stood in, and
‘“ came to anchor in the evening on the north side, in
‘“ thirty fathoms water, one mile from the shore: the
‘“ bottom black sand with slime ; a small rock, off the
‘““ west point, bearing south-west by south, just open
‘“ with the western extremity of the island, a cascade, or
“ fall of water, emptying itself upon the beach south by
““ east. All the shore, from the southern point to the
‘“ eastern extremity, appears to be clear of danger, and
‘“ steep, except the west point, where there are breakers
‘“ about two cables’ length, or near five hundred yards
““ from the shore. The ship, when anchored, was over-
““ shadowed by the dark mass of that portion of the island
‘“ whose sides seemed to rise, like a moss-grown wall, im-
mediately from the ocean. On the right the elevation
‘“ was less rapid, and between the rising part and the
““ sea was left a flat, of some extent, covered with sedge-
‘¢ grass, interspersed with small shrubs, which, being
‘« perfectly green, looked, from the ship, like a pleasant
‘“ meadow, watered bya stream that fell, afterwards, from
¢¢ its banks upon the beach. The officers, who went

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ashore, reported that the casks might be filled with fresh
water by means of a long hose, avithout moving them
from the boats. The landing place, thereabouts, was
also described as being safe, and superior to any other
that had been examined. From the plain the land
rose gradually, towards the central mountain, in ridges
covered with trees of a moderate size and height. The
coast abounded with sea lions and seals, penguins and
albatrosses. One of the latter was brought on board,
his wings measuring ten feet from tip to tip; but
others are said to have been found much larger. The
coast was covered with a broad sea weed, several

 

199

Tristan
d’Acunha.

 
200

Tristan

d’Acunha.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

“ fathoms long, and, deservedly, by naturalists, termed
““ gigantic fucus. Some good fish was caught with the
““ hook and line.

“ The accident of a sudden gust, by which the anchor
““ was, in a few hours, driven from its hold, and the
““ ship forced out to sea, prevented the island from
““ being explored, as was intended. It is probable that
““ had the Lion anchored in twenty, instead of thirty
‘“ fathoms water, the anchor would have held firmly.
““ Some advantage was obtained, however, from coming
“to this place. The just position of those islands, in
“« respect to their longitude, was ascertained by the mean
““ of several time-pieces, to be about two degrees to
‘ the eastward of the place where they are laid down
““ in charts, taken from observations made at a period
‘“ when the instruments, for this purpose, were less ac-
“ curate than at present. The spot where the Lion
*« anchored was determined, by good meridional observa-
““ tions, and by accurate time-pieces, to be thirty-seven
‘“ degrees six minutes south latitude, and eleven degrees
““ forty-three minutes west longitude from Greenwich.
‘“ The compass had seven degrees of variation westward
‘“ from the pole. Fahrenheit’s thermometer stood at sixty-
‘ seven degrees. It was useful also to have ascertained
‘“ that a safe anchorage, and plenty of good water, were
‘“ to be found here. Those islands are certainly worthy
““of a more particular inquiry ; for they are not fifty
EMBASSY TO CHINA. : 201

‘« leagues from the general track of vessels bound to [Tristan
¢¢ China, and to the coast of Coromandel, by the outer ===
‘ passage. In war time, an excellent rendezvous might
““ be settled there, for ships that wanted no other supply
‘“ but that of water. When circumstances require par-
“« ticular dispatch, it is practicable to come from England
‘“ to Tristan d’Acunha, without stopping in the way;
‘“ and afterwards to the end of the voyage to India or
China.”

These islands are separated by a space of about fifteen
hundred miles from any land to the westward or north-
ward of them. They are situated in that part of the
southern hemisphere, in the neighbourhood of which a
continent, to balance the quantity of land in the northern
hemisphere, was once expected to be found ; but where it
has been since ascertained that there is none. Of what ex-
tent, however, the bases of those islands are under the
surface of the sea, cannot be discovered ; or whether they
may or may not, be sufficient to make up for the defect
of land appearing above water. Navigators report, that
to the eastward of them are other small islands, differing
not much in latitude, such as Gough and Alvarez islands,
and the Marsouines ; as well as extensive shoals, lying due
south of the most southerly point of Africa, and extend-
ing easterly several degrees. That all these together form
a chain, some of subaqueous, and some of superaqueous
mountains ; but all connected by their roots, is perhaps,
202

Passage to
the Indian
Ocean.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

a conjecture less improbable, than that they should sepa-
rately arise, like tall columns, from the vast abyss.

A settlement in Tristan d’Acunha is known to have
been twice in the contemplation of adventurers ; but not
as yet to have been carried into execution. One had the
project of rendering it a mart for the change of the light
manufactures of Hindostan, suited to hot climes, for the
silver of the Spanish settlements in South America; in
the route between which places it is situate conve-
niently. The other plan meant it only as a suitable

spot, for drying and preparing the furs of sea lions and

seals, and for extracting the spermaceti of the white or
long-nosed whale, and the whale-bone and oil of the
black species. Whales of every kind were seen sport-
ing hereabouts, particularly near the setting of the sun:
their enormous snouts rising sometimes above the waves,
with a fountain spouting through an aperture in the skull.
Sometimes their curved huge backs appeared like rocks
in the middle of the ocean; and at other times they
spread their tails like fans, and flapped them upon the
surface of the water. The sword-fish was likewise often
seen ; and these spectacles attracted the more notice, as

little else occurred to diversify the scene. One vessel

only, a Spanish brig, bound for the River de la Plata,
was met between Rio and Tristan d’Acunha.

On the fifth of January, 1793, the Lion crossed the
meridian of London, at a distance, however, from that
EMBASSY TO CHINA. 203

capital, of about ninety degrees of latitude, or six thousand Passage to
two hundred and fifty-five miles nearer to the antarctic nn
circle and southern pole.

Sir Erasmus Gower observed, that ¢ throughout
~<¢ the whole of this passage from Rio, as well as far-
““ ther on to the eastward, within four degrees of
the Cape of Good Hope, a small current set con-
‘« stantly to the south-eastward, which was proved by
‘“ solar and lunar observations, as well as by time-
‘« pieces. The ships did not approach the Cape nearer
‘“ than ninety leagues. For three degrees to the west-
‘“ ward, and as many to the eastward of it, the current set
«“ strongly to the westward. When opposite the Cape,
‘“ the ships steered more southerly, to get into the lati-
““ tude of forty degrees south, so as to avoid the shoals
““ laid down in Mr. Dalrymple’s charts, near the pa-
«« rallel of thirty-eight degrees of southern latitude, and
«« extending in detached spots as far as twenty-five de-
grees to the eastward of the Cape, as well as some
islands, said to be in the track of vessels bound to
Botany Bay, and little distant from the route to China.
‘“ When within two hundred leagues of the islands of
«¢ St. Paul and Amsterdam, in the Indian ocean, the
“« ships returned to the latitude of thirty-eight degrees
¢¢ forty minutes south, and continued in it, until those
‘« islands came in sight, which was on the first of Fe-

“ braary, 1793.

 

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Passage
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“ In the passage from Tristan d’Acunha birds and
fish were seen in considerable numbers; whales al-
most every day. In the high southern passage, nearly
forty-one degrees south latitude, the wind was between
the north-west and south-west, blowing strong: the
north-west wind producing fogs and rain, and the south-
west wind clear and cold weather. Only one hard
gale was experienced the whole way, which was to
the eastward of Madagascar. It begun from the north-
east, and ended at the south-west, blowing violently
in all directions, and occasioning an uncommonly
confused sea, so that the ship laboured much, and fre-
quently rolled the gunwale, and part of the quarter-
deck, under water, the masts forming an angle with
the horizon, of about fifty degrees. There was also
a very great swell from the south-west, during the
whole passage, frequently without any apparent rea-
son. As soon as the ships approached within about
thirty leagues to the westward of St. Paul and Amster-
dam, a few seals and penguins were observed. The
sea became subject to tides or currents. One day's ob-
servation gave twenty miles northing. On the even-
ing of that day, a boat was sent to try what easting or
westing might be added to that northing ; but reported,
on its return, that the current set due south, near a mile
an hour; which was confirmed by the observation
next day at noon.”
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

The il of discovering a current, in a boat, is by
sending it at some little distance from the ship, and then
letting down a weight, often an iron pot, to a consider-
able depth (about two hundred fathoms) into the sea,
which weight is thus found to answer the common pur-
pose of an anchor, and keeps the boat from any progres-
sive motion: currents being seldom found below ten fa-
thoms. Any lightbody, thrown from the boat upon the
surface of the sea, too thin and flat to receive any impul-

sion from the wind, must, if it moves, be moved only

by a current, of which it is easy to observe the ten-
dency, and measure the velocity.

The weather was now moderate and warm, suitably
to the season, it being the month of January, which in
this hemisphere is a part of summer. They who reside
usually on the other side of the equator, must here dis-
sociate some ideas, which had been hitherto connected
in their minds. Thus, pleasantness and vigour must be
transferred from May to December ; and he who wishes
to describe a chilling and uncomfortable aspect, must
point directly to the south ; while, on the contrary, the
north revives his hopes of cheerfulness and warmth.

The islands of St. Paul and Amsterdam were per-
ceived, lying in the same degree of longitude, the one
about seventeen miles to the northward of the other.

The Dutch navigators are said to have given the name

of Amsterdam to the northern, and of St. Paul to the
VOL. I. Dd

205

St. Paul and
Amsterdam.

 
206

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

st. Pauland southern island ; and Captain Cook conforms to that ap-

Amsterdam.

 

pellation. Most other English navigators, and particu-
larly Messieurs Cox and Mortimer, reverse the names,
calling the southernmost, Amsterdam, and the other St.
Paul. That which is to the south, and to which the
Lion was now nearest, is high land, but considerably
less so, than the island of Tristan d’Acunha. It ap-
peared barren and destitute of trees. Smoke issued from
many parts of it. As the ship approached the shore, two
human figures were perceived to be moving on the land.
They immediately made signals, waving a handkerchief
tied to a pole, held by one of them in his hands, and both
running along the cliff, as if endeavouring to keep up with
the ship, as she moved forwards. It was conjectured on
board, that those two persons might be the survivors of
some shipwreck upon this desert coast; and a strong in-
terest was excited in their favour, sufficient to determine
upon stopping for them, even if no intention had pre-
viously been taken to pay a visit to the place; and it
was deemed fortunate, that the Lion should be thus the
means of relieving two men from the wretchedness they
must feel, in so desolate a spot. The sequel of this
work will, however, shew, that the Lion may have
been probably the occasion of prolonging their detention
in it. A boat was quickly dispatched for them, as well
as to sound for ancherage. The boat had scarcely left
the ship, when the two men were observed to descend
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

from the cliff, towards the beach, and to prepare them-
selves as if to swim off to the boat. But this was pre-
vented by the violence of the surge, which rendered
‘the efforts of those men, as well as of the boat to ap-
proach to them, utterly ineffectual at that moment.
There seemed, however, no danger in sailing along the
island, except at the north-north-east end, from whence
runs a low rocky reef, a part of which was conspicu-
ous above water, and a part discoverable by sea weed,
which grows upon, and rises from, the rocks: the whole
extent being about half a mile.

When the ships came abreast of the eastern side of
the island, a prodigious indenture in the land appeared,
somewhat in the form of a funnel or inverted cone, at
the bottom of which was perceived a cove, or large ba-
son of water, communicating by a narrow and shallow
opening with the sea. Opposite to this opening, the
Lion anchored in twenty-five fathoms water, about a
mile from shore, on a bottom of black sand and mud.
Here, by a boat entering into the bason, it was perfectly
easy to get on shore. As soon as the gentlemen from
the Lion landed, they were received, not only by the
two men they had discovered on the heights, but by
three others who were their companions; and of whom
their chief, or superintendant, who was an intelligent
and communicative Frenchman, of the name of Perron,
gave the following account. He said, that two, beside

207

Island of
Amsterdam.
 w——r»
208

Island of
Amsterdam.

 

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

himself, were natives of France; the other two of Eng-
land: the latter bred in the British navy, but after-
wards become Americans, sailing usually out of Boston ;
that they came last from the Isle de France, and were
left by the vessel to which they belonged, the joint
property of Americans and Frenchmen, about five
months since, upon this island, for the purpose of pro-
viding a cargo of twenty-five thousand seal skins for
the Canton market, which they hoped to complete in
about ten months more, having already procured near
eight thousand. The vessel had been fitted out at the Isle
de France, in the Indian ocean; and was now gone to
Nootka sound, on the north-west coast of America, with
a view of bringing a quantity of sea-otter skins to China;
and afterwards of calling for the cargo of seal skins at
this place, to be carried to China likewise; proceeding
thus, alternately, to Nootka and Amsterdam island, as
long as the owners found their account in it.

The Chinese, it seems, have a particular art in dress-
ing seal skins, depriving them of the long and coarser
hair, leaving only the soft fur, or underdown, and, at the
same time, rendering the skin or leather thin and pliant.
The price of those skins at Canton differed from one to
three dollars, or more, according to their quality, and
the demand for them at the time. The trade was, pro-
bably, well worth following, to judge by the eagerness
with which such an assemblage of persons had engaged
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

in it. Perron had a share in the general adventure;
but the people with him were paid in proportion to
their expertness and diligence. Nothing but the pro-
spect of considerable advantage could be supposed to in-
duce any human beings to reside fifteen months together
in a country so unpromising, and which their occupa-
tion in it rendered so disgusting. They killed the seals
as they found them basking in the sun, upon the stones
every where along the shore, and round the large bason
already mentioned. As the skins alone were their object,
they left the carcasses on the ground to putrefy at leisure,
strewed in such numbers as to render it difficult to avoid
treading on them in walking along. A shocking spec-
tacle- was thus exhibited at every step, while the smell
infected the atmosphere around. The people, thus em-
ployed, were, for the most part, remarkable for the
squalor and filth of their persons, clothes, and dwelling.
Yet none of them seemed anxious to catch at an oppor-
tunity of abandoning the place, before the business for
which they came there was completed; and one of
them, an Englishman, had been there for some time
on a former adventure. The signals and apparent
anxiety of two of these people, on the hills, which
attracted so much the notice of the Lion, were occa-
sioned by the novelty of the sight, at that time, to
them, and the desire of inducing the ship to stop,
without, perhaps, any distinct object of gratification.

209

Island of
Amsterdam.

 
210

Island of

Amsterdam.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

The seals, whose skins are thus an article of com-
merce, are found here in greater numbers in the summer
than in the winter, when they generally keep in deep
water, and under the weeds, which shelter them from
the inclemency of the weather. In the summer months
they come ashore, sometimes in droves of eight hundred
or a thousand at a time, out of which about a hundred
are destroyed, that number being as many as five men
can skin and peg down to dry in the course of a day.
Little of the oil, which these animals might furnish, is
collected, for want of casks to put it in. Part of the
best is boiled, and serves those people instead of butter.
The seal of Amsterdam is the phoca ursina of Linnaeus.
The female weighs, usually, from seventy to one hun-
dred and twenty pounds, and is from three to five feet
in length ; but the male is considerably larger. In ge-
neral they are not shy. Sometimes they plunge into
the water instantly upon any one’s approach; but, at
other times, remain steadily on the rocks, bark, and rear
themselves up in a menacing posture; the blow, how-
ever, of a stick upon the nose seemed sufficient to dispatch
them. Most of those which come ashore are females,
in the proportion of more than thirty to one male.
Whether, in those animals, nature has fixed on such an
apparent disproportion between the two sexes, or whe-
ther, while the females have occasion to seek the shore,
the males continue in the deep, has not hitherto been
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

ascertained by any observations here. In the winter
season great numbers of sea lions /phoce leonine/, some
eighteen feet long, crawl out of the sea upon the cause-
way, making a prodigious howling noise. Even the
hollow mournful cry of the seals may be distinctly
heard at the anchorage, which is a mile distant from the
shore. It is thought that both seals and sea lions are
somewhat less numerous here of late, since the place
has been frequented by vessels for the purpose of getting
their skins. Whales abound upon this coast in the
winter season. In the summer they go into deeper
water, and at a farther distance from the land.

The cove or bason, on the border of which the seal
catchers had erected a rude hut, was nearly in the form
of an ellipsis. On the side adjacent to the sea, its bank
was low, composed of rounded stones, and divided in
the middle by a shallow cummunication with the sea,
of recent date, as Van Vlaming, a Dutch commander,
who visited this place in 1697, reports that there then
was none, the intermediate causeway being, at that time,
entire, and at least five feet high above the surface of
the sea. Close to this causeway, interrupted now, the
land on each side rises suddenly from the bason; and
1s continued round it to the height of, at least, seven
hundred feet by trigonometrical admeasurement. At
the same time it is so steep, as to form an angle with the
horizon of about sixty-five degrees. The longest dia-

211

Island of
Amsterdam.
212

Island of
Amsterdam.
A ITI EE

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

meter across the surface of the water in this funnel
was about one thousand one hundred yards, and the
shortest eight hundred and fifty. The circumference,
by the water's edge, was about three thousand yards,
or a mile and three quarters nearly; the upper cir-
cumference of the funnel must, consequently, exceed
two miles. In almost every part of the slanting sides
of this funnel near the water’s edge, and in the cause-
way dividing it from the sea, several springs of hot
water were discovered. Fahrenheit’s thermometer,
which stood in the air at sixty-two degrees, on being
immersed into one of those hot springs, ascended im-
mediately to one hundred and ninety-six degrees. In
another, it rose to two hundred and four; and in a
third, on applying the bulb of the thermometer to a cre-
vice out of which a small stream issued, in less than a
minute it rose to the boiling point. On various trials,
in several springs, it was found that the general stand-
ard of heat, was that of two hundred and twelve degrees,
when the bulb of the thermometer was applied to the
fissure from whence the water issued ; and that if a kind
of reservoir were formed round the spring, the water in it
would generally remain about the temperature of two
hundred and four degrees. The bason abounded with
tench, bream, and perch; and the same person, who,
with a hook and line, had caught some of these fish in
the cold water of the bason, might, with a slight motion
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

of his hand, let them drop into the hot adjoining spring,
where, in fact, they were boiled, in the space of fifteen
minutes, and fit for eating. A regale of this kind was
much relished by some of the gentlemen from the Lion
and Hindostan. It is easy to get at the boiling water
in the causeway, by removing a few stones wherever a
steam, arising from among them, denoted the heat be-
neath. In some places large beds of mosses, known by
the name of marchantia and lycopodium, were growing
in great luxuriance; out of which, as well, indeed, as
from several fissures in the great funnel, issued a consi-
derable quantity of smoke. A part of the moss being torn
off, some thin hot mud was discovered underneath, in
which the bulb of the thermometer being immersed, the
quicksilver ascended, in the tube, to the boiling point.
By applying the ear to the ground, a noise like that of
bubbling water was distinctly heard. In many places
veins of vitrified matter were observed to run perpendi-
cularly from the water’s edge, through substances that
had been burned, but not fused; and some of the rocks
contained several beautiful pieces of zeolite.

Within two hundred yards of the causeway, and con-
nected with it, is a curious insulated rock or cone, con-
sisting of several horizontal layers of matter, some ap-
proaching to vitrification, others more distant from that
state, but all indicating the operation of heat; and all

the appearances seemed to confirm the assertion of
VOL. I. Ee

213

Island of
Amsterdam.

 

 
214

Island of

Amsterdam.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Doctor Gillan that * the island of Amsterdam was the
«« product of subterraneous fire ; and bore evident marks
‘ of volcanic eruption in every part of it. On the west
‘ and south-west sides there are four small cones, regu-
““ larly formed, with craters in their centres, in which
““ the lava and other volcanic substances, have every
‘“ appearance of recent formation. The heat continues
“« still so great, and such a quantity of elastic vapours
‘¢ 1ssues through numberless crevices, that there can be
¢ no doubt of their having been, very lately, in a state of
‘“ eruption. In a thermometer, placed, at different times,
‘“ upon the surface, the quicksilver rose constantly to
‘“ one hundred and eighty degrees, and when sunka little
““ into the ashes, itadvanced to two hundred and twelve
““ degrees. It certainly would have risen still higher, but
‘“ the scale being graduated only to the point of boiling
‘“ water, and the length of the tube proportioned to that
““ extent, the thermometer was immediately withdrawn,
“ lest the increasing expansion of the quicksilver should
““ burst the glass. The ground was felt tremulous under
‘“ the feet; a stone thrown violently upon it returned
‘“ a hollow sound; and the heat was so intense, for a
‘¢ considerable distance around, that the foot could not

~ *“ be kept for a quarter of a minute in the same position,

‘“ without being scorched. But the great crater on the
‘“ eastern side, now full of water, is by far the largest
*“ here, or, perhaps, elsewhere, and is of an astonishing
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

als.

«¢ size, considerably exceeding in diameter those of Etna ,ond of

«« or Vesuvius. The quantity of matter to be thrown
‘“ up, which required so wide an orifice for its passage,
“« and the force with which such matter was impelled,
‘“ in order to overcome the resistance of the superin-
¢¢ cumbent earth and sea, must have been, indeed, pro-
“« digious.

““ This vast crater, according to the usual method of
‘“ computing the antiquity of volcanoes, must have been
‘“ formed at a very remote period. The lava all around
‘“its sides 1s much decomposed, and has mouldered
‘“ into dust, which lies on the surface, in many parts,
““ to a considerable depth. The decomposition has sup-
““ plied a rich soil for the long grass growing on the
‘“ sides of the crater ; and it has even spread over most
‘“ parts of the island. The fibrous roots of the grass,
‘ extending in all directions through the decomposed
‘“ lava, and volcanic ashes, and mixed in a decaying
‘“ state with the vegetable mold, produced from the an-
‘“ nual putrefaction of the leaves and stalks, have formed
““ a layer of soil, several feet deep, all over the island.
‘“ But as it has nothing, except its own weight, to com-
““ press it together, it is of a light spongy texture, with
‘“ very little cohesion, and, in many places, furrowed
‘“ and intersected by the summer rains, and the torrents
‘“ occasioned by the melting of the snow, which lies
“upon it, in the winter, from three to four feet thick,

msterdam.
TR
216 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

astand of <j all those places where the subterraneous heat is not
“ great enough to prevent its accumulation. In some
‘“ parts these furrows and cavities are deeper than the
level of the common channel. Hence they serve the
purpose of small natural reservoirs. The water flows

 

 

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““ into them from all the neighbouring ground; and as
‘“ their sides are shaded, and almost covered over by the
‘“ leaves of the long grass, growing from their edges in
‘“ opposite directions, the rays of the sun are excluded,
‘““ and very little is lost by evaporation. These reser-
‘“ voirs, however, are very small, and but few in num-
‘“ ber. The largest could not contain more than three or
““ four hogsheads of water ; and there is none else to be
‘“ found, except in the springs on the sides of the large

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** ‘crater,
““ The soil every where being light and spongy, an
““ full of holes, formed in it by sea birds for nests, is
‘““ very troublesome to walk upon. The foot breaks
‘“ through the surface, and sinks deep at every step: a
‘“ circumstance Which renders the journey across the
“ island uncommonly fatiguing, although it be scarcely
*“ three miles from the edge of the great crater to the op-
‘“ posite west side. There is one place, near the centre
‘“ of the island, extending about two hundred yards in
length, and somewhat less in breadth, where particu-
lar caution is necessary in walking over it. From this
spot a hot fresh spring is supposed to derive its source,

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water covering its bottom. The heat in this upper
spot is too great to admit of vegetation. The surface
is covered with a kind of mud or paste, formed from
the ashes, moistened by steam constantly rising from
below. When the mud is removed, the vapour issues
forth with violence, and in some parts copiously.
This mud is so hot, that a gentleman who, inadver-
tently, stepped into it, had his foot severely scalded
by it. The same causes, which have prevented vege-
tation on this spot, have had the same effect on the

four cones recently thrown up. Their surfaces are

covered with ashes only ; nor is there the least appear-
ance even of moss on the surrounding lava, for the
production of which there does not appear to have
elapsed a sufficient length of time since the cones
were formed: but this is not the case with the lava
of the great primary crater; for in those parts of it
where the edges are more perpendicular, and where
consequently, the mouldering decomposed earth, hav-
ing no basis to support it, slides down the sides of the
rock, pretty long moss was generally found growing
upon it. All the springs or reservoirs of hot water,
except one only, were brackish. One spring derives
its source from the high ground, and ridges of the
crater. The water in it, instead of boiling upwards

217

Island of
msterdam.

 
218

Island of

Amsterdam.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

“ through the stones and mud, as in the other springs,
““ flows downward with a considerable velocity, in a
‘“ small collected stream. Its temperature has been
‘ found not to exceed one hundred and twelve degrees.
¢“ The hand could be easily kept in it for a considerable
“time. It is a pretty strong chalybeate. The sides of
““ the rock whence it issues, and of the cavity into which
«« it falls, are incrusted with ochre deposited from it.
« This is the water used by the seamen dwelling upon
‘¢ the island. They feel no inconvenience from its use ;
‘¢ and habit has reconciled them to its taste. When the
“« great crater is viewed from the high ground, it appears
““ to have been originally a perfect circle ; but to have
‘“ been encroached upon by the sea on the eastern side,
‘« where the flood tide strikes violently. The rocks of
““ lava, which formed the edge of the crater on that side,
‘« have fallen down. The depth of the water in the
«« crater is about one hundred and seventy feet, render-
‘ ing the whole height of the crater, from the bottom
““ to its upper ridge, nearly, if not quite, nine hundred
«« feet. The lofty rocks, forming this ridge, are the
‘« highest parts of the island, which seem to have been
«« originally produced by the melted lava, flowing down
‘““ on all sides from hence. Thus there is a gradual
““ slope from the edges of the crater to the sea; and the
‘“ lava, tho very irregular, and lying in mixed ruin
‘« and confusion immediately around the crater, assumes
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘“ 2 more uniform appearance at some distance, layer
‘« resting regularly upon layer, with a gradual decli-
““ vity the whole way down to the sea. This dispo-
‘“ sition of the layers is particularly observable in the
“« west side, where they happen to terminate in an abrupt
«« precipice. The eruptions that took place, at different
«¢ periods, appear here distinctly marked by the different
‘“ layers that are found with regular divisions between
‘“ them, the glassy lava being undermost; the compact,
¢ next; the cellular lava next above; overit the volcanic
‘“ ashes and lighter substances, and a layer of vegetable
‘“ mold covering the whole.”

The island appears, indeed, in such a state of volcanic
inflammation, that from the ships’ decks at night were
observed, upon the heights of the island, several fires,
issuing out of the crevices of the earth, more consider-
able, but in other respects resembling somewhat the
nightly flames at Pietra Mala, in the mountains between
Florence and Bologna, or those near Bradley in Lanca-
shire, occasioned by some of the coal pits having taken
fire. In the day, nothing more than smoke could be
perceived.

The island of Amsterdam lies in thirty-eight degrees
forty-two minutes south latitude, and in seventy-six de-
grees fifty-four minutes longitude east of Greenwich.
The variation of the compass in the great crater was nine-
teen degrees fifty minutes westward of the north pole.

219

Island of
Amsterdam.
ARR AIT

 
220

Tsland of
Amsterdam.

 

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Fahrenheit’s thermometer, during the Lion’s stay, stood at
about sixty-two degrees. The length of the island from
north to south is upwards of four miles, its breadth from
east to west about two miles and a half, and its circum-
ference eleven miles, comprehending a surface of about
eight square miles, or five thousand one hundred and
twenty acres, almost the whole of which is covered with
a fertile mold. The island is inaccessible except on the
east side, where the great crater forms a harbour, the en-
trance to which is deepening annually, and might, by
the aid of art, be made fit for the passage of large ships.
The tides run in and out at the rate of three miles an hour,
and rise perpendicularly eight or nine feet on the full
and change of the moon. Their direction is south-east
by south, and north-west by north. A northerly wind
makes the highest tide. The water is eight or ten fathoms
deep almost close to the edge of the crater. The English-
man who had been, for the second time, upon the island,
gave a very unfavourable account of the weather during
the winter months. In the summer months it was ac-
knowledged to be very fine, and easterly winds uncom-
mon ; but the winter was always boisterous, with hail
and snow, and a great swell produced by winds blowing
constantly from the north-west or south-west quarters.
In those times, he said, a whirlwind was sometimes seen
to sweep off the surface of the water in the crater, and to
raise it in vast sheets to the very top of the surrounding
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

sides, already mentioned to be found by admeasurement
no less than seven hundred feet in perpendicular height.

The small vessel, in which the present inhabitants
‘of the island were brought to it in the preceding Sep-
‘tember, remained either at anchor or in the ofhing for
eight weeks; during the whole of which time, a boat
was able to land only twice; and, in consequence, they
were left with such a scanty supply of provisions, that
they must have perished, had not the island furnished
them with plenty of fish and fowl. They stood most in
need of vegetable food; but beside what was given to
them from the Lion and Hindostan, the gardeners plant-
ed potatoes and other vegetables round their hut, which
may prove a seasonable relief to them, or to their succes-
sors upon the island: a circumstance the more desire-
able from its lying in the track of ships for China, as
well as of those bound, by the outer passage, to the east-
ern side of Hindostan.

The sea supplies this island with excellent fish, parti-
cularly a kind of cod, which was equally relished whe-
ther fresh or salted. Cray fish was in such abundance on
the bar across the entrance into the crater, that at low
water they might be taken by the hand. At the anchor-
age of the ships the people took them by letting down
into the sea baskets, in which were baits of sharks’ flesh.
In a few minutes, the baskets being drawn up, were found

half filled with cray fish. Hooks and lines speedily pro-

VoL. I. Ff ;

991

Island of
Amsterdam.

 

 
222

Island of

Amsterdam.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

cured a change of diet fora week. This circumstance was
the more extraordinary as sharks and dog-fish, of uncom-
mon size, abounded in the same place, which are known
to be so voracious, and such enemies to all other fish. One
shark was caught measuring eleven feet in length, and
near five in circumference. In his maw was found a
penguin entire, an animal classed by all naturalists
among birds, but certainly partaking much of the fishy
tribe, not only by its frequent residence in the water,
which renders it a prey to sharks, but by its scale-like
feathers, and its fin-like wings. The species here found
in vast abundance, often basking and standing erect on
the rocks, in company with the seals, is distinguished
by Linnzus by the name of chrysocoma, having large
yellow feathers, forming two semicircles over the eyes,
like eyebrows.

Of all the birds which frequent this spot, so extraor-
dinary in its origin, formation, and appearance, not one
is common to the same degree of latitude, in the north-
ern hemisphere. Of the larger kind were several spe-
cies of the albatross; on examining one of which, distin-
guished by the name of exulans, it was found that
instead of having only the rudiments of a tongue, as
supposed by naturalists, it had one equalling half the
length of the bill. The yellow-billed albatross is not quite
so large as the former; but the brown albatross is of a
greater bulk. The specimen of the latter, carried on board
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the Lion, weighed sixteen pounds. The expansion of its
wings was nine feet, the plumage particularly thick upon
the breast. The albatross finds a difficulty in raising itself
on a sudden into the air; but is obliged to start from a
precipice, or to run a considerable way upon the ground,
in order to acquire an impetus or quantity of motion
sufficient to lift him on the wing. When in-the water
he makes several efforts before he can rise out of it.
Another large bird is likewise common here, called the
great black petrel, and is the procellaria equinoctialis of
Linnaeus; it is the determined enemy of the albatross,
whom it attacks always, whenever it finds him on the
wing, but quits as soon as the albatross takes to the
water, which is his constant refuge in such rencounters.
This petrel is a fierce and voracious animal. Yet one of
them soon grew tame on board the Lion, eating quietly
the garbage and offal set before it; and seemed to take
great delight in bathing in a tub of sea water; and it
was, therefore, often indulged in that luxury. This bird
is a still more fatal enemy to the blue petrel of Am-
sterdam, or procellaria Sforsterz, than to the albatross. It
devours only the heart and liver of the former, leaving
the rest untouched. Hundreds of them, thus eviscerated,
were found lying upon the earth throughout the island.
They hide themselves under ground in the day-time,
in order to escape, if possible, from their destroyer.
Sometimes, indeed, in that situation, they make a noise,

223

Island of
Amsterdam.

 
224

Island of
Amsterdam.

 

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

by which they are discovered. At night they come
abroad, and thence are termed night birds by the people
at Amsterdam ; but being fond of flocking to any light,
they fall into another snare laid for them by the seal
catchers, who kindle torches for that purpose, and kill
multitudes of them. They constitute indeed the principal
food of these people, who think it very good. This blue
petrel is about the size of a pigeon. Another petrel, of a
much smaller size and darker colour, frequents this island

likewise. It is often observed upon the ocean in bad

weather, and is therefore called the stormy petrel; or in
the sailors’ language, allusive to some witch's story, now
forgotten, Mother Gary's chicken. The prettiest of the
feathered tribe, inhabiting or visiting Amsterdam, was
the silver bird, or sterna hirundo, about the size of a large
swallow or swift, with a forked or swallow tail. The bill
and legs are of a bright crimson colour, the belly white,

the back and wings bluish ash-colour. This bird sub-

sists chiefly on small fish, which it picks up as they are

swimming near the surface of the water. Mr. Maxwell
shot a silver bird flying; and as it fell, a fish of about
three inches long was found held crosswise by its bill.
These birds range about in very considerable numbers,
and with no apprehension of danger. Whenever a
young one was taken, the others kept fluttering about
the captor for a considerable time, making all the noise
they could, and seeming to threaten as if they meant to
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

strike or dart upon his head, in order to frighten and
force him to give up his prize.

In the tour which some of the gentlemen from the
Lion made of this small but singular island, they were
accompanied by Perron, the chief of the seafaring men
then resident upon it, who very readily offered to con-
duct them, as he was acquainted with the path leading
up the side of the hill or funnel, by which alone it was
possible to ascend it; and even there not without labour,

and some risk. Above, there was found a level, extend-

ing about a mile; afterwards, a gradual declivity towards
the sea, to within fifty yards, where the ground ends in
a precipice, inaccessible from below, except in one
place, to which a path communicates with the high land.
By this the seal catchers are enabled to pass to the shore
when the direction of the wind induces the seals to seek

protection on that part of it from the roughness of the wa-

ter on the opposite side. When the party returned to the
eastward of the island where the shipshad been at anchor,
they were perceived to be preparing for departure ; and
the gentlemen, who felt themselvesindebted to Perron for
his complaisance and attention to them on their little
tour, as well as for his ready communication of whatever
he had observed during his stay upon the island, had
the mortification to find that he had, for his reward, been
despoiled, during his absence with them, of no incon-
siderable proportion of the skins, which must have cost

225

Island of

Amsterdam.
226

Island of
Amsterdam.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

so much, to a man of his decent manners and disposition

=== to collect. While he was away from the hut where they

were kept, some persons from the ships, suspected to be
above the rank of common seamen, brought spirituous
liquors ashore, which was a temptation too strong for
the other seal catchers to resist. They first began to
bargain upon reasonable conditions, except offering a
property not their own ; but when once they had tasted
the rum in sufficient quantity to affect their understand-
ing, they lessened the heap of skins with a profusion
which knew no bounds; and Perron had to regret his
good nature to strangers, which gave the opportunity of
thus injuring him, and to lament the arrival of English
ships at the place of his abode. Sir Erasmus Gower,
who felt much indignation when he heard the story,
ordered a general search to be made for the skins thus
unwarrantably acquired. Some were found ; and it was
intended to leave them at Canton; for the Lion was
already under sail from Amsterdam before he knew
the fact. How subsequent events rendered this deter-
mination vain, will hereafter be related to the reader.
St. Paul's, or the island lying in sight, and to the
northward of Amsterdam, differed in appearance mate-
rially from the latter. It presented no very high land,
or any rising in a conic form. It was overspread with
shrubs and trees of a middling size. It was said to
abound with fresh water; but had no good anchorage
EMBASSY TO CHINA. 227

near it, or any place of easy landing. The ships lost rsand of
sight of both those islands, on the evening of the second Aster
of February, 1793.

In the folio volume of Plates, belonging to this work,
will be found a view and plan of the island of Amster-
dam, and of the great crater on the eastern side of it.

 
228

Passage to
Straits of
Sunda.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

CHAPTER VII.

ENTRANCE INTO THE STRAITS OF SUNDA. VISIT TO BATAVIA
"AND BANTAM, IN THE ISLAND OF JAVA. VIEW OF THE
SOUTHERN EXTREMITY OF THE ISLAND OF SUMATRA. PAS-
SAGE THROUGH THE STRAITS OF BANKA TO PULO CON-
DORE. :

Arter having sailed in high southern latitudes
during as much of the year 1793 as had hitherto been
spent, and traversed an ocean of more extent than is

found continuous within the boundaries of Europe, but

in a part where there was no likelihood of meeting any
vessels, the Embassador and other passengers of the
Lion and Hindostan began, at length, to indulge the
hope of getting soon into a track, where they might
obtain intelligence, through the homeward bound ships
from China, of the impression which the notification of
the Embassy had made there. Those ships generally
find it necessary to deviate to the southward of the
direct route, in order to get into latitudes where the
winds are most favourable for a passage home. The
Lion and Hindostan were, indeed, still considerably to
the southward of sucha route ; but in making an oblique
course to the north-east, in order to get into the Straits of
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

229

Sunda, there was a probability that they would meet Passageto

some of the homeward bound ships, sailing in the op-
posite direction, from the Straits’ mouth. The wind did
not always favour the intention of the former ; and, some-

times, blew from the very point towards which they

wished to steer. It soon, however, changed, not in-
deed entirely to the opposite point; but to that, from
whence it came, in the nautical phrase, upon the quar-
ter, in which situation, as the wind could be brought to
act upon many more sails, than if it struck merely upon
the stern in the exact direction of the vessel's course, it
produces a more considerable effect; and the Lion's
motion was so accelerated as to go no less than two hun-
dred and thirty-nine miles on the day she returned with-
in the tropics, being more than had been before accom-
plished, in an equal time, during the whole voyage.
While the breeze was fresh, the weather, notwith-
standing the sun's vertical heat, was always pleasant.
The tropic birds, remarkable for their very high flight,
and their long tail feathers, began to appear again ; and
the porpoises to play upon the waters: while the flying
fish were seen in numbers escaping only from their finny
pursuers, to become a prey to the winged tribe, that was
watching to dart upon them as soon as they rose above
the water. Several water-spouts were now observed ;
some resembling jet d’eaus, almost reaching to the low-

ered clouds, some not unlike the blowing of a whale.
VOL, I. G g

Straits of

Sunda.

 
230

Passage to
Straits of
\. Sunda.

AL RAR

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

The ships spread more than usual from each other,
in order to embrace a greater extent of the horizon, and
thereby have a better chance of espying any vessel
which might be steering from the Straits of Sunda to-
wards Europe. Most persons in the Lion and Hindos-
tan prepared for such a meeting, which could be only
of short continuance, by writing letters to send to their
connections and friends at home: an occupation which
recalled, for a moment, their distant cares, and renewed
all their sensations of friendship and affection. In the
ardour of searching for other ships, the Lion and Hin-
dostan, who had kept so constantly together, in passing
through upwards of a hundred degrees of latitude, and
still more of longitude, separated, by some accident,
now for the first time. Each pursued its route for
North Island, being the accustomed rendezvous in the
Straits of Sunda.

The disadvantage of a long continuance at sea became
now apparent, from the scorbutic symptoms which be-
gan to affect several of both the crews, notwithstanding
the measures taken for the preservation of their health,
that have been already mentioned; to which may be
added the use of anti-scorbutics, such as the mixture of
sour-crout, or pickled cabbage, in their food; and the
occasional distribution amongst them of the essence of
malt. They were much gratified by the indulgence
allowed them of tobacco. It was hoped that the air of
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

land, to which they were now approaching, and the use
of fresh vegetables to be found upon it, might prove still
more effectual remedies. The officers of the Lion ex-
pected when they got into the twentieth degree of south
latitude, and in the hundredth degree of cast longitude

or upwards, from Greenwich, that the appearance of

weeds, land birds, or of fish frequenting shores, would
have indicated the neighbourhood of land, as Cloat’s
island and the Tryal rocks are laid down thereabouts
in several charts; but no such traces were perceived
until they were within seven degrees of the latitude of
the Line, and somewhat more than one hundred and
three degrees east longitude, when they saw a very
small island, which they supposed to be that which is
called Clapp’s island, not above seven or eight miles in
circumference ; but it is high enough to be seen, in
clear weather, at the distance of as many leagues. The
next day, being the twenty-fifth of February, 1793,
they came in sight of the most westerly point of the
island of Java, called Java head ; and soon afterwards,
saw Prince’s island at the entrance of the Straits of Sunda.

The great island of Sumatra by its south-east, and that
of Java by its north-west, extremity; approaching to each
other, form those straits between them, which are in-
terspersed with a number of small isles: the whole dis-
playing a scenery, inferior indeed in grandeur to that
of the lofty range of mountains round the harbour of

231

Passage to
Straits of
Sunda.-

sul
252

EMBASSY TO GHINA,

staitsof R10 de Janeiro, but scarcely to be exceeded in the soft-

Sunda.

ness, richness, and gaiety of its appearance. The two
great islands, first mentioned, which are low, and in
some places marshy, near the shore, rise afterwards in a
gradual slope towards the interior of the country, ad-
mitting in their ascent every variety of situation, and all
the different tints of verdure. Of the smaller islands,
a few have steep and naked sides, such as one in the
middle of the strait, which the English navigators have
distinguished, on that account, by the name of Thwart-
the-way, and two very small round ones called, from
their figures, the Gap and Button ; but most of the
others are entirely level, founded upon beds of coral,
and covered with trees. Some of these islands are sur-
rounded with a white sandy beach, visited frequently
by turtle; but most of them are adorned with thick
shrubbery to the water's edge, the roots being washed
by the sea, or the branches dipping into it ; and on the
outside are shoals, in which a multitude of little aquatic
animals are busied in framing calcareous habitations for
their residence and protection. Those fabrics gradually
emerge above the surface of the water, and, at length
by the adventitious ddhesion of vegetable matter, giving
birth to plants and trees, become new islands, or add
to the size of those already produced by the same means.
It is impossible not to be struck with the diversified
operations of nature for obtaining the same end, whether
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

employed inoriginally fixing the granite foundation of the
Brazils, or in throwing up, by some sudden and subse-
quent convulsion, the island of Amsterdam, or in conti-
nuing to this hour, through the means of animated beings,
the formation of new lands in the Straits of Sunda.

One of these coralline productions is North Island,
where the Lion found the Hindostan at anchor. The
latter met, near the mouth of the Straits, with one of the
East India Company's ships returning home from China.
She had brought dispatches from the Company’s Com-
missioners at Canton to the Embassador, which, after
the ship had waited ten days for his Excellency at
Batavia, were left there for him. On the Lion’s pro-
ceeding, together with the Hindostan, to that place, the
voyage was found to resemble a short trip of pleasure.
The sea was perfectly smooth ; and its surface studded
with 1mmnumerable clusters of coral islands. The sub-
stance of which they are composed is in a hard state,
and similar to rock ; but in various places considerable

quantities of zoophytes were dragged from the sea, some.

of a fleshy, and some of a leathery texture. Of the co-
rals there were vast masses, and of various species, the
madrepora, cellipora, and tubipora, of different shapes,
flat, round, and branched: and, as to colour, brown,
white, and blue ; and all these colours not unfrequently
in the same specimen ; but none red, except the tubi-

pora musica.

233

Straits of
Sunda,

TAIT Mate.
234

Straits of
Sunda.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Of the prodigious variety of aquatic -animals, inde-
pendently of those that produce the coral islands,
large proportion is doomed to move only along the oe
tom of the sea, of which the most numerous here were
the sea urchin, star fish, and the holothuria. Others are

still more confined in their movements than the common

oyster, whose shells are not immoveably fixed to a par-
ticular spot, but are sometimes transported from one
bank to another, by the impulse of tides or currents, or
other motion of the waters near them ; whereas there are
animals of a similar kind, which, beside being inclosed
in a bivalve shell, are imbedded, with the shell itself,
in a large mass of calcareous rock, having only a suffi-
cient play for the hinges, that the valves may open, and
shut upon whatever prey the passing waves casually
waft towards them. These are some, among the many
instances, of the regular gradations of animal life, from
rapid motion and exquisite sensibility, to the borders of
mere vegetable irritability ; where those two kingdoms
of nature seem to meet, and to be confounded together.
The coral rocks above the surface, on which vegetation
flourished, were many of them so small, as to contain
each only a single stem, like a vessel's mast, upon it; the
whole of them presenting, to a distant view, the appear-
ance of several fleets of shipping. Within one of these
clusters, distinguished, from its number, by the name of
the Thousand Islands, the Lionand Hindostan anchored,
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

during the night. The sky was clear, and the stars
shone with singular lustre. Those of the first and second
magnitude, might be observed, distinctly, rising from the
horizon, or descending beneath it ; and their amplitudes,
or distances from the east or west points, might have
been taken as accurately as that of the sun or moon. The
southern constellations of the centaur, cross, and argo,
seemed to form a brighter portion of the firmament than
any which the eye can reach from high northern lati-
tudes.

The ships arrived on the sixth of March in Batavia
road, which lies in six degrees ten minutes south lati-
tude, and in one hundred and six degrees fifty-one

minutes eastern longitude from Greenwich: the varia-

tion of the compass about half a degree to the westward
of the pole. In this passage to Batavia there are several
shoals. Beacons are fixed on some to point out the dan-
ger. Others are not even noticed in the marine charts
made by the Dutch, at an early period of their settle-
ment on this coast ; and are supposed to be collections
of coral, formerly lying deeper, but which, by continual
accretion, have risen nearer to the surface. That there
is some increase of land, from other causes, at the en-
trance of Batavia, is evident from an inspection of the
plan of that city, taken about a century and a half ago,
of which a copy is inserted in Ogilby’s account of the

Dutch embassy to China. According to this plan the

235

Batavia.
WR AE FANG ACBL Ra
236

Batavia.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

principal fort or citadel of Batavia was situate close to
the beach, and a double row of piles driven a consider-
able way, perhaps a mile, out into the shallow sea, to
denote the safest passage to be between them ; whereas
now there is land, and even a row of houses on one side,
to the very extremity of those piles. This increase was,
however, greatly assisted, if not chiefly effected, by
human industry, exerted in banking up the earth washed
from the mountains by the river, which is much more
steep and rapid at its origin than where it empties itself
into the sea. En

~ A circular range of islands protects the road of Batavia

from any heavy swell, and renders it a safe place for

ships to anchor in; and it is large enough to contain all
those that double the Cape of Good Hope. The great
number of Dutch vessels lying before the city was alone
sufficient to announce it to be their principal place of
trade, as wellas the seat of their chiefgovernmentin Asia.
"The Chinese junks, also, so ill calculated for long voyages,
which were at anchor in the road, already indicated the
vicinity of that empire. Few of the buildings of the city
of Batavia were perceptible from the road, except the
dome of the church: the rest being chiefly hidden,
as well as shaded, by the large leaves of lab palms, and
other high and spreading trees.

The Embassador, after having been complimented on
board, on the part of the Dutch government, was received
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

on shore with distinguished honours; tho his mission
had created there strong alarms. No account, it seems,
had reached Batavia of the liberal communication, and
proffer of service, made to the States General by the
Administration of Great Britain, upon the occasion of the
Embassy. When these were now announced by the
Embassador to the Governor and Council, the secret
‘apprehensions that had been entertained by them were
frankly acknowledged ; as well as the intention of their
agents at Canton to join in counteracting his Excellency
there as much as lay in their power. The government of
Batavia was made sensible that there was room enough for
the commerce of both nations ; and the Council imme-

diately determined to send instructions to Canton for

uniting with, instead of opposing, the efforts of the
- Embassador, from whence it was to be hoped that every
European nation, trading to China, would be bencfited
in the end. The dispatches his Excellency received
here from the Commissioners of the English East India
Company at Canton, augured favourably for his honour-
“able reception at the court of Pekin. The Commis-
sioners mentioned that ‘“ having applied to two of the
‘“ principal Chinese merchants to solicit an audience
‘“ from the Fouyen or Governor of Canton, in the ab-
‘¢ sence of the Viceroy of the province, in order to
““ deliver a letter to him from the Chairman of the Court

‘“ of Directors of the East India Company ; those mer-
VoL. I. Hh

237

Batavia.

rm ttm
Rae Sassy
238 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Batavia.  ‘‘ chants readily guessed that the letter related to the
™ vu Embassy, of which the rumour had spread amongst
‘“ them ; and expressed some degree of apprehension

‘« lest the measure might, in its consequences affect the

‘“ trade, property, or personal security of the native

“« merchants of Canton; but that the Commissioners

assured them that it would rather be productive of
good than of ill consequences to all the trading part
‘“ of the community ; that the motives of the Embassy
were anxiously inquired into, on the part of the
officers of government, asa preliminary step to the
‘“ audience required by the Commissioners, who de-
“ clared that nothing further was intended than to
“ effect a stricter friendship between the courts of Lon-
don and Pekin, and an increase of that intercourse,
which had been carried on for so many years, to
the advantage of both nations; that this explanation
was probably satisfactory, as the day for their recep-
““ tion was fixed at an earlier period than could have

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been expected, from the procrastinating and super-
stitious temper of the Chinese; that a message was
afterwards, however, sent by the Governor to learn
the rank and situation of the person from whom the
letter came; and whether he was a servant of the
‘“ King, and held an office under his seal; that in
‘“ answer it was said, that the letter, tho not written by
‘“ an immediate servant of the King, was sent to the

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

*“ Viceroy with his Majesty's knowledge, to announce
‘“ the approach of his Embassador to Pekin; that in
‘ consequence, however, of the letter not having been
““ written by an immediate officer of the crown, nor to
¢ be delivered by persons in its service, but in that only
‘“ of the Company, objections arose to the intended form
‘“ of their reception ; but as any contest about ceremony
‘“ might have been followed by a refusal to receive the
‘« letter, till an answer could be obtained from Pekin,
‘“ which was a subterfuge that the Hoppo or mandarine
‘“ more immediately connected with Europeans, and
‘ interested in preventing representations of any kind
‘“ from reaching Pekin, betrayed a disposition of urging
¢“ to the Fouyen, it was determined to deliver the letter
‘“ in any manner that might be prescribed. It became
‘“ necessary, likewise, to communicate its contents: and
““ it was with no small trouble and difficulty that the Chi-
‘“ nese merchants, who were the only interpreters, could
‘ be brought to comprehend the particulars of the letter,
‘“ and the real object of the Embassy. The want of a
‘¢ competent linguist, and the necessity of encourage-
‘“ ment to attain the Chinese language, under the ob-
“ stacles to be encountered in such a pursuit, were,
““ perhaps, never so apparent as on this occasion; and
« the English Commissioners could not but lament the
“ want of an interpreter of their own nation, capable of
‘“ conceiving and rendering the spirit of the letter, and

239

Batavia.

eee eee.
A(R
240

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Baie.“ Of carrying on with advantage a conference both de-

““ licate and important. That it ended, however, in a
‘ promise that the letter should be forwarded to the Em-
« peror ; and the result made known to them through
¢ the Chinese merchants. That accordingly, some time
«« afterwards, his Imperial Majesty’s pleasure was pub-
«lished upon the subject, in an edict declaring his sa-
«¢ tisfaction at the intended Embassy ; and giving orders
«« that pilots should be properly stationed to conduct the
« ships, in which the Embassador and the presents from
«« the King of Great Britain were expected, into the port
‘ of Tien-sing, or any other they might think more
‘ convenient, or prefer.” The Commissioners added,
that ¢¢ the impression looked for from the Embassy had
“¢ already taken place on the officers of government
‘« at Canton. Less interruption to foreign trade, and a
““ more ready attention to the representations of the
‘« Commissioners, were very apparent ; and the Hoppo
““ was already said to have in contemplation to abolish

the extravagant charges at Macao, by which means

‘« one of the principal impositions upon foreigners would
‘ be suppressed.”

The communication of these dispatches to the Bata-
vian government, which felt now a common interest in
the present Embassy, occasioned additional festivities to
those with which it was intended to celebrate the anni-
versary of the birth of the Prince of Orange, Stadt-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

holder of the United Provinces. His high office and
‘commanding influence, particularly in the affairs of the
East India Company of that country, placed him upon
the level of a sovereign ; and his Serene Highness was
much more the object of respect and apparent attachment
than the States General, tho nominally his superiors. The
mingled taste and united luxuries of a Dutch and Eastern
entertainment, to which the Embassador and his suite
were all invited, were displayed upon the occasion.
It was given at the house of the Governor-general, a
little way out of town ; the road to it led through an

avenue of trees, bordered by canals, near which, on one

side, the humours of a Flemish fair were exhibited, for
the amusement of the people; and, on the other, upon
such a large cart as is supposed to be the original scene
of dramatic performances, appeared several Chinese
actors, whom some of the Governor's new guests would
have preferred stopping to observe, rather than to par-
‘take of the sumptuous banquet within doors. This ban-
quet was preceded by a ball, and accompanied by illu-
minations and fire-works in the garden, which seemed
multiplied by reflection from the several pieces of water
that covered a great proportion of the ground ; nor did
the company separate till near the morning.
Notwithstanding these occasional scenes of merriment,
implying the enjoyment of health and vigour, the great-

241

Batavia.
I —_——

est number of the Dutch settlers in Batavia, such as

’”
249 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Batavia. Were commonly seen at their doors, or met with in the
= streets, appeared wan, weak, and languid, and as if la-
bouring with the *¢ disease of death.” Their place of re-

sidence, indeed, is situate in the midst of swamps and
stagnated pools, from whence they are every morning

saluted with ‘¢ a congregation of foul and pestilential

““ vapours,” whenever the sea breeze sets in, and blows

 

over this morass. The meridian sun raises from the
shallow and muddy canals, with which the town is
intersected, deleterious miasmata into the air ; and the
trees with which the quays and streets are crowded, emit
noxious exhalations in the night. The sudden transition
likewise from a cold northern region to the middle of
the torrid zone, without the adoption of the habits re-
quisite in the latter, must render the human frame more
liable to be affected by any causes of disease.

Doctor Gillan understood that ‘* there were but few
‘« examples of strangers remaining in Batavia long with-
‘« out being attacked by fever, which is the general
¢ denomination, in that place, for illness of every kind.
‘« Europeans, soon after their arrival, first become lan-
““ guid and feeble; and in a few weeks, sometimes in a
‘“ few days, are taken ill. The disorder, at first, is com-
‘““ monly a tertian ague, which, after two or three pa-
““ roxysms, becomes a double tertian, and then a conti-
« nued remittent, that frequently carries off the patient
‘“ in a short time. Many fall victims to the second or
/

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

« third fit; but in these cases a constant delirium, and
“« a great determination of the blood to the brain accom-

““ pany the other symptoms. In some it begins in a

““ quotidian form, with regular intermissions for a day

““ or two ; and then becomes a continued remittent, at-

““ tended with the same fatal consequences as the former.
“The Peruvian bark was seldom prescribed in any
‘“ stage of the disease; or it was given in such small
‘“ quantities as to be productive of little benefit. No
¢“ change was made in the diet or regimen of the patient,
<« and the chief, orrather the sole medicine administered,
‘ was a solution of camphor in spirit of wine, of which
““ a table-spoonful was taken, occasionally, in a glass of
« water. The practitioners of physic in Batavia, where
““ the presence of the most skilful certainly was neces-
““ sary, not having had the advantages of a medical edu-
‘“ cation, were satisfied, as to theory, with considering

“ the nature of the fever as being to rot and corrupt the

““ human frame ; and, as to practice, that camphor being
“¢ the most powerful antiseptic known, it was proper
““ to trust to it, by a rule more simple even than Mo-
‘“ liere’s, and to exhibit it in every variety and period
““ of the complaint. The intermittent fever does not,
‘“ however, prove always fatal ; but continues, in some
‘“ instances, even for many years ; and the patient be-
““ comes so familiarized to it, as scarcely to think it a
‘“ disease; and in the intervalsof its attacks, attends to

243

Batavia.

EAE
214

Batavia.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

¢ his affairs, and mixes in society. A gentleman, in
“ that predicament, conversing upon the nature of the
¢« climate, observed that, in fact, it was fatal to vast
“ numbers of Europeans who came to settle there; that
‘ he lost many of his friends every year; but for his
‘ part, he enjoyed excellent health. Soon after, he
““ called for a napkin to wipe his forehead, adding, that.
““ this was his fever day; he had a shocking fit that
““ morning, and still continued to perspire profusely.
‘““ Upon being reminded of his late assertion of being
‘“ always healthy, he replied he was so, with exception
‘“ of those fits, which ‘did not prevent him from being
““ generally very well; that he was conscious they
‘“ would destroy him by degrees, were he to remain in
““ the country long; but that he hoped his affairs would
‘ enable him to leave it before that event was likely to
‘“ take place. These fits are always followed by ob-

_ ‘¢ structions, and hard swellings in the bowels. Their

‘“ increase 1s regular and gradual ; and he that is atten-
““ tive to their progress, may almost calculate how long
‘“ he has yet to live. It is supposed that of the Euro-
‘“ peans, of all classes, who come to settle in Batavia, not,
‘“ always, half the number survives the year. The place
‘¢ resembles, in that respect, a field of battle, or a town
‘“ besieged. The frequency of deaths renders familiar
‘“ the mention of them, and little signs are shewn of
‘“ emotion or surprise on hearing that the companion
EMBASSY: TO CHINA.

““ of yesterday, is to-day no more. It is probable, female
¢« Europeans suffer less at Batavia than the men. The
‘“ former seldom expose themselves to the heat of the
‘“ sun, make frequent use of the cold bath, and live
‘“ more temperately than the other sex.”

Of the fatal effects of the climate upon both sexes,
however, a strong proof was given by a lady there, who
mentioned, that out of eleven persons of her family
who had come to Batavia only ten months before, her
father, brother-in-law, and six sisters, had already paid
the debt of nature. That there are constitutions, how-
ever, so formed, as to be little affected by causes fatal
to many others, appeared in particular instances: such
as that of the gentleman who was governor-general
when the Lion was at Batavia. He had been upwards

of forty years in the country, was a man of great appli- -

cation to business, and took no uncommon precaution
for the preservation of his health. Such also was one of
the counsellors of the Indies, as the members of this
government are entitled, at whose house the Embassador,
and two persons of his suite, resided, and were enter-
tained with equal hospitality and splendour while they
remained ashore. This gentleman's house was gene-
rously open to all strangers; nor did he set them the
example of abstemiousness in his own person. Both he
and the governor were not only exempt from sickness,

but even from any kind of languor, so frequently expe-
VoL. I. Ii

245

Batavia.
246

Batavia.
ITO CEREGAC IS

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

rienced by others in every part of the torrid zone, as
well as at Batavia. There were other gentlemen of
habits less robust, but whose active minds were not af-
fected by the climate. Even learning was cultivated in
the midst of more profitable occupations. An obser-
vatory had been erected here, which, indeed, was now
neglected ; but an academy of sciences and literature
still subsisted. Among other marks of attention paid to
the Embassador, diplomas were presented to him and to
one of his suite, as members of the academy, together
with sets of the volumes hitherto published by it. One
of the members of the council, who had formerly re-
sided as chief of the Dutch commerce at Japan, had in
contemplation to publish a description of that country,
for which his situation and ingenuity enabled him to
collect very interesting materials. |

The Embassador’s host had a very curious collection
in the several departments of natural history. He made
presents to his guests of several specimens. Among
them was a beautiful pheasant, which, on being sent
to England, and shewn to a gentleman of acknowledged
eminence in all branches of zoology, Doctor Shaw of
the British Museum, he was of opinion, that ¢¢ this
‘“ superb pheasant was a bird which, from every exa-
‘““ mination of the writers on ornithological subjects,
“ appeared to be yet undescribed. None of the spe-
‘“ cies mentioned by Linnzus, and Mr. Latham, could
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

in any degree, be supposed to relate to this. The

«« species to which it seemed to be most nearly allied,
“ in point of general habit or appearance, was the
« phasianus curvirostris, or Impeyan pheasant ; an Fast
«« Indian bird, described and figured both in Mr. La-
¢ tham's Ornithology, and in the Museum Leverianum.
«« From that bird, however, it differs very considerably ;
«« as a collation of those figures, with the present, would
« effectually evince. The tail of the latter being in a
« mutilated state, it was scarce possible to determine,
«« with absolute precision, whether it should be referred
“¢ to that subdivision of pheasants, which contains those
‘« with long or cuneiform tails, or those with rounded
‘“ ones, as in the Impeyan pheasant; for which reason,
‘« the representation in the Plate, No. 13, (engraved for
‘« the present work,) was so conducted as purposely to

‘“ leave this particular undetermined. The general co--

‘“ Jour of this most elegant bird was black, with a gloss
‘“ of blue, or what, in the language of natural history,
“may be termed chalybean black, or black accom-
£¢ panied by a steel-blue lustre. The lower part of the
‘“ back was of a peculiarly rich colour, which, according
‘¢ to the different directions of the light, appeared either
‘“ of a deep ferruginous, or of the brightest fiery orange-
“red. This beautiful colour passed in the manner of a

‘“ broad zone, round the whole body ; but on the ab-

* domen, was of a much more obscure appearance than

247

Batavia.

ETI WEF LET,
248 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

patavia. © on the back, as well as somewhat broken or irregular,

CTRL

 

o~

é

< especially on ‘the’ sides.’ The throat was furnished
«« with a large, and somewhat angular, pair of wattles,
‘“ uniting with the bare spaces on the cheeks. The
«« feathers on the top of the head, which was of a
‘“ lengthened form, ran a little backward, so as to give
‘ the appearance of an indistinct occipital crest. The
«« beak was remarkable for a more lengthened and
‘ curved aspect, than in any other bird of this genus,
‘“ except the Impeyan pheasant. The feathers on the
‘“ neck, back, and breast, were rounded, and of the
“ same shell-like or scaly habit, as those of the turkey.
““ The legs were very stout, and armed with a pair of
‘“ extremely strong, large, and sharp spurs. Both legs
« and beak were of a pale colour. Whether this bird be
““ really new or not to the ornithologists of Europe, it
‘“ may at least be affirmed with safety, that it had never
been properly described ; nor can the character of any
‘« species, hitherto introduced into the books of any syste-

-
-~

‘“ matic naturalist, be considered as a just or competent
“ specific character of the present bird. It may be called
““ the fire-backed pheasant ; and its essential character
‘“may be delineated in the following terms: black,
““ pheasant with a steel-blue gloss ; the sides of the body
‘“ rufous ; the lower part of the back fiery ferruginous ;
““ the tail rounded? the two middle feathers, Bpale yel-
“ low-brown.”

-

~
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

The eye looks in the country here in vain for the
common animals and vegetables, which it had been
accustomed every day to meet in Europe. The most
familiar bird about the house of the Embassador’s host
was the crown bird, as it was called at Batavia, which
was not however the ardea pavonina of ‘Linnaeus, but
the columba cristata, having nothing, except its crest,
in common with the former. The same gentleman had
also, at his country house, some large cassowary birds,
which, tho long in his possession, and having the ap-
pearance of tameness, sometimes betrayed the fierceness
of their nature, attacking with their strong bill those
who approached too near them. The vegetation of the
country is likewise new. Even the parterres in the
gardens are bordered, instead of box-wood, by the Ara-
bian jessamine, of which the fragrant flowers adorn the
pagodas of Hindostan. The Dutch, who are so fond of
gardens in Holland, have transferred that taste, where
it can, certainly, be cultivated with more success; and
indulge it to a great extent at their houses a little way
from the city of Batavia: still, however, within that fen-
ny district, concerning which, an intelligent gentleman
upon the spot used the strong expression, that the air
was pestilential, and the water poisonous. Yet the coun-
try is every where so verdant, gay, and fertile ; it is inter-
spersed with such magnificent houses, gardens, avenues,
canals, and drawbridges; and is so formed in every

249

Batavia.
250

Batavia. -

EMBASSY TO CHINA,

respect to please, could health be preserved in it, that
a youth coming just from sea, and enraptured with the
beauty of every object he saw around him, but mindful
of the danger there to life, could not help exclaiming,
‘“ whatan excellent habitation it would be forimmortals!”

The most tolerable season here is from March or
April, to November; when the rains begin, and last
the rest of the year. The sea breeze sets in about ten
o'clock in the morning, and continues till four or five
in the afternoon. It becomes then calm till seven or
eight, when the land breeze commences, and conti-
nues at intervals till day-break, followed by a calm
for the remaining hours of the twenty-four. Fahren-
heit’s thermometer was, in Batavia road, during the
Lion’s remaining there, from eighty-six to eighty-eight
degrees, and in the town, from eighty-eight to ninety-
two degrees; but its variations by no means corres-
ponded to the sensations produced by the heat on the
human frame ; the latter being tempered by any motion
of the air, which circumstance has little effect upon the
thermometer. Nor are the animal sufferings here, from
heat, to be measured by its intenseness at any given
moment of the day, but by its persisting through the
night ; when, instead of diminishing, as it does in colder
countries, sometimes twenty degrees, it keeps generally
here within four or five of what it attains in the shade,
when the sun is at its highest elevation.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

The native Javanese derive, however, one advantage at
least, from an atmosphere not subject to the vicissitudes
of temperature experienced in the northern parts of Eu-
rope, where diseases of the teeth are chiefly prevalent ;
as they are here entirely exempt from such complaints.
Their habit of living chiefly on vegetable food, and of
abstaining from fermented liquors, no doubt contributes
to this exemption. Yet such is the caprice of taste, that
jet black is the favourite colour, and standard of beauty,
for the teeth, amongst them: comparing to monkies
those who keep them of the natural colour. They ac-
cordingly take care to paint, of the deepest black, all
their teeth, except the two middle ones, which they
cover with gold leaf. Whenever the paint or gilding is
worn off, they are as attentive to replace it on the pro-
per teeth, as the belles of Europe are to purify and
whiten theirs.

The general reputation of the unhealthiness of Ba-
tavia for Europeans, deters most of those, who can reside
at home with any comfort, from coming to it, notwith-
standing the temptations of fortunes to be quickly
amassed in it. From this circumstance it happens, that
offices and professions are often necessarily entrusted
to persons little qualified to fill them. One of the cler-
gymen, and the principal physician of the place, were
both said to have originally been barbers. The United
Provinces furnish even few military recruits, The rest

251

Batavia.

tere —_—
A ATS.
252 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Batavia. are chiefly Germans, many of whom are said to have
~~ been kidnapped into the service. Tho nominally per-
mitted, after a certain length of time, to return home,
they are, in fact, compelled to enlist for a longer term ;
the pay being too scanty to allow them to save enough
to defray the expence of their passage to Europe. The
government is accused of the barbarous policy of inter-
cepting all correspondence between those people and
their mother country; by which means they are de-
‘prived of the consolation of hearing from their friends,
as well as of the chance of receiving such assistance, as
might enable them to get home. One of these miserable
men availed himself of an opportunity, which offered
accidentally, of addressing, in his native German lan-
guage, a gentleman of his own country belonging to the
Embassy. He was in the utmost agitation, lest he should
_ be observed holding converse with a person not under
the Dutch government's control ; and conjured him, in a
few words, uttered with all the energy of heart-felt an-
guish, to forward a letter he meant to write to respectable
relations he had in Germany. Unfortunately for this
wretch, he had not then the letter ready ; and he had
never once afterwards the opportunity of delivering it.
The Duke of Wiirtemberg, in consequence of a bargain
~ withthe East India Company in Holland, had lately sent
one of his regiments to Batavia ; but a large proportion,
both of officers and men, died within a twelvemonth.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Every man who comes to settle in Batavia must take
up arms in its defence. One of the Counsellors of the
Indies, after mentioning all the pains taken by him and
his colleagues: in government, for guarding the settle-
ment against external attacks, frankly acknowledged
that their chief dependence was upon the havock which
the climate was likely to make amongst the enemy's
forces. : Captain Parish thought likewise, that * the
““ most effectual protection of that settlement from an
‘“ European enemy proceeded from its climate. Its for-
‘“ tifications were, by no means, such as would be
‘“ deemed formidable in Europe; but when the diffi-
““ culties were considered of forcing the passage of the
““ river, or of landing troops on other parts of the island,
“ it might, perhaps, be thought of greater strength than
““ it would, at the first view, have credit for. The de-
‘“ fences of the river were the water fort, situated near
‘¢ its. mouth, having, mounted or dismounted, fourteen
“ guns and two howitzers. It consisted of a parapet,
““ originally well constructed, retained by a wall; but
“ the parapet was much neglected, and the wall nearly
““ destroyed by the constant working of the sea. This
“ fort was protected on the land side by a noxious
““ swamp, and towards the sea, on the north-west, by
‘“ extensive flats, over which even boats could not pass.
““ The only good approach was that by the channel,

* which it sees and defends. The next work upon the
VOL. I. K k

253

Batavia.
a
254

Batavia.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

““ river was on the west shore, about a quarter of a mile

‘“ from the water fort. It is a battery mounting seven
‘ guns, bearing down the river. Opposite to this was
““ a battery of six guns, facing the river; and two to
¢« the eastward. This formed one flank of a line that
““ occupied the low land to the north-east of the town.
“« The line was a low breast-work of earth, that was
«“ scarcely discoverable. The canals which intersect
““ the town joined the great canal, or river, at the dis-
¢¢« tance of half a mile from the entrance. Below the
“ junction a boom was laid, of wood, armed with iron
““ spikes. A little above was the castle, a regular square
¢¢ fort, but without ravelins or other outworks. It had
““ two guns mounted on each flank, and two, or some-
““ times three, on each face: they were not en barbette,
““ nor properly en embrasure, but in a situation between
‘ both, having both their disadvantages, without the
‘« advantage of either. The wall was of masonry, about

«« twenty-four feet high. It had no ditch; but a canal

¢« surrounded it at some distance. It had no cordon.

*“ The length of the exterior side of the work was about

‘“ seven hundred feet. The town is rectangular, three
‘“ quarters of a mile long, and half a mile broad, inclos-
““ ed by a wall of about twenty feet in height. Small
““ projections were constructed, of various forms, at
‘ intervals of about three hundred and fifty feet.

+ These generally mounted three guns each. It was
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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

also surrounded by a canal, having several sluices,
At short distances from the town, three or four small
star forts of earth were erected in particular passes, per-
haps for defence against the inhabitants of the island.
““ The establishment of regular troops was one thou-
sand two hundred Europeans, of whom three hun-
dred were to be artillery, the rest infantry. But as

¢ 1t was found impossible, on account of the climate,

to keep the number complete, recourse was had to the

‘ natives, of whom five hundred were employed: SO

that the establishment of European regulars was re-
duced to seven hundred. There were also three hun-
dred volunteers of the town, who were formed into
two companies; but they were not disciplined. The
irregulars were very numerous, consisting of enrolled
natives of Java, who were never embodied, and of

255

Batavia.
I ANS.

Chinese, of whom the Dutch were so jealous, as to

arm them with lances only. Much dependence was
not to be placed on the exertions of either of these
bodies, in favour of the Dutch; and as they lose many
of their European troops every year, their establish-
ment appeared too small for any effectual resistance.
The chief protection of their ill-manned vessels lying
here, must be from the fortified island of Onrust, well
situated to command the channel that affords the prin-
cipal passage into the road. The work upon that
island was of a pentagonal form; its bastions were
256

Batavia.
AR TR

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

“ small and low, not more than twelve feet the highest,
““ and mot always connected by curtains. A few bat-
““ teries were lately constructed on the outside of this
‘« work, that bore towards the sea. On these and on
““ the bastions, about forty guns were mounted in diffe-
«« rent ‘directions. South of these was another island,
«at the distance of a few hundred yards, on which two
‘“ batteries, mounting together twelve guns, had been
“ lately erected.”

‘The castle is built of coral rock, brought from some
of the adjoining islands, composed of that material; and
has the advantage of a fortification of brick, in which
cannon ball is apt to bury itself, without spreading
splinters, or shattering the wall. A part of the town
wall is built of lava, which is of a dark blue colour, of
a very hard dense texture, emits a metallic sound, and

_ resembles, very much, some of the lava of Vesuvius.

It is brought from the mountains in the centre of Java,
where a crater still is smoking. No stone, of any kind,
is to be found for many miles behind the city of Batavia.
Marble and granite are brought thither from China, in
vessels belonging to that country, commonly called junks,
which generally sail for Batavia from the ports of the pro-
vinces of Canton and Fochen, on the southern and south-
east coasts of that empire, laden chiefly with tea, pa; ce-
lain, and silks. | 150

In these junks great numbers of Chinese come con-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

stantly to Batavia, with exactly the same views that
attract the natives of Holland to it, the desire of accu-
~ mulating wealth in a foreign land. Both generally be-
longed to the humbler classes of life, and were bred in
similar habits of industry in their own country ; but
the different circumstances that attend them after their
arrival in Batavia put an end to any further resemblance
between them. The Chinese have, there; no way of
getting forward but by the continuance of their former
exertions in a place where they are more liberally re-
warded ; and by a strict economy in the preservation
of their gains. They have no chance of advancing by
favour; nor are public offices open to their ambition;
but they apply to every industrious occupation; and
obtain whatever either care or labour can accomplish.
They become; in town; retailers, clerks, and agents; in
the country they are farmers, and are the principal cul-
tivators of the sugar-cane. They do, at length, acquire
fortunes, which they value by the time and labour re-
quired to earn them. So gradual an acquisition makes
no change in their disposition, or mode of life. Their in-
dustry is not diminished, nor their health impaired. The
Dutch, on the contrary, who are sent out by the Com-
pany, to administer their affairs in Asia, become soon
sensible that they have the power, wealth, and posses-
sions of the country at their disposal. They who sur-
vive mount quickly into offices that are lucrative, and

257

Batavia.
RR CAT 5
258

Batavia.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

not, to them, laborious. Their influence, likewise,
enables them to speculate in trade with vast advantage.
The drudgery and detail of business are readily under-
taken by the Chinese; who, like the native Banyans and
Debashes in Calcutta and Madras, are employed as sub-
ordinate instruments, while their principals find it diffi-
cult, under such new circumstances, to retain their former

habits, or to resist a propensity to indolence and volup-

tuousness, tho often attended with the sacrifice of health,
if not of life. Convivial pleasures, among others, are
frequently carried to excess.

In several houses of note throughout the settlement
the table is spread in the morning at an early hour:
beside tea, coffee, and chocolate, fish and flesh are served
for breakfast; which is no sooner over, than Madeira,
claret, gin, Dutch small beer, and English porter, are
laid out in the portico, before the door of the great hall ;
and pipes and tobacco presented to every guest, and a
bright brass jar placed before him to receive the phlegm
which the tobacco frequently draws forth. This occu-
pation continues sometimes, with little interruption, till
near dinner time, which is about one o’clock in the af-

ternoon. It is not very uncommon for one man to

drink a bottle of wine in this manner before dinner.
And those who have a predilection for the liquor of their
own country, swallow several bottles of Dutch small

beer, which, they are told, dilutes their blood, and
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

affords plenty of fluids for a free perspiration. Imme-
diately before dinner, two men slaves go round with
Madeira wine, of which each of the company takes a
bumper, as a tonic or whetter of the appetite. Then
follow three female slaves, one with a silver jar contain-
Ing water, sometimes rose-water, to wash ; a second with
a silver bason and low cover of the same metal, pierced
with holes, to receive the water after being used; and
the third with towels for wiping the hands. During
dinner a band of music plays at a little distance. The
musicians are all slaves; and pains are taken to instruct
them. ‘A considerable number of female slaves attend
at table, which is covered with a great variety of dishes ;
but little is received, except liquors, into stomachs al-
ready cloyed. Coffee immediately follows dinner. The
twenty-four hours are here divided, as to the manner of
living, into two days and two nights: for each person
retires, soon after drinking coffee, to a bed, which con-
sists of a mattrass, bolster, pillow, and chintz counter-
pane, but no sheets; and puts on his night dress, or
muslin cap and loose long cotton gown. If a bachelor,
which is the case of much the greatest number, a female
slave attends to fan him while he sleeps. About six
they rise, dress, drink tea, take an airing in their car-
riages, and form parties to spend the evening together
to a late hour. The morning meetings consist generally
of men, the ladies seldom choosing to appear till evening.

259

Batavia.
260

Batavia.

EMBASSY TO CHINA,

Few of these are natives of Europe, but many are

“descended from Dutch settlers here; and are educated

with some care. The features and outlines of their faces
are European; but the complexion, character, and mode
of life, approach more to those of the native inhabitants
of Java. A pale languor overspreads. the countenance,
and not the least tint of rose is seen in any cheek.
While in their own houses, they dress like their slaves,
with a long red checkered cotton gown descending to
the ankles, with large wide sleeves. They wear no
head dress, but plait their hair, and fasten it with a
silver bodkin on the top of the head, like the country
girls in several cantons in Switzerland. The colour
of their hair is almost universally black. They anoint

‘it with the oil of the cocoa-nut, and adorn it with chap-

lets of flowers. When they go abroad to pay visits, or
to take an airing in their carriages, and particularly
when they go to their evening parties, they dress mag-
nificently, in gold and silver spangled muslin robes,
with a profusion of jewels in their hair, which, however,
is worn without powder. They never attempt to mold
or regulate the shape, by any fancied idea of elegance,
or any standard of fashion; and they, consequently,
formed a striking contrast with such few ladies as were
lately arrived from Holland, who had powdered hair

and fair complexions, had contracted their waists with

stays, wore large head dresses and hoops, and per-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

severed in the early care of forcing back the elbows,
chin, and shoulders. Every native lady is constantly
attended by a female slave handsomely habited, who, as
soon as her mistress is seated, sits at her feet before her,
on the floor, holding in her hands the lady's gold or sil-
ver box, divided into. compartments, for containing areca
nut, cardamom seeds, pepper, tobacco, and slacked lime;

all which, mixed together in due proportions, and rolled
within a leaf of betel, constitute a masticatory of a very
pungent taste, and in general use. When, in the public
assemblies, the ladies find the heat disagreeable, they
retire to free themselves from their costly but inconve-
nient habits; and return, without ceremony, in a more
light and loose attire ; when they are scarcely recogni-
zable by strangers. The gentlemen follow the example,
and throwing off their heavy and formal dresses, appear
in white jackets, sometimes indeed adorned with dia-
mond buttons. The elderly gentlemen quit their peri-
wigs for night-caps. Except in these moments, the
members of this government have always combined
their personal gratification, with the Eastern policy of
striking awe into vulgar minds, by the assumption of
exterior and exclusive distinctions. They alone, for
instance, appear abroad in crimson velvet. Their: car-
riages are distinguished by peculiar ornaments. When

261

Batavia.

met by others, the latter must stop, and pay homage to

the former, One of the gates of the city is opened only
VOL, I. L1
262

‘Batavia.
——

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

to let them pass. They certainly succeed in supporting
absolute sway over a vast superiority in number of the
descendants of the original inhabitants of the country,
as well as of the slaves imported into it, and of the Chi-
nese attracted to it by the hope of gain: those classes, tho
healthy, active, and as if quite at home, readily obeying
a few emaciated Europeans. Such is the consequence of
dominion once acquired ; the prevalence of the mind
over mere bodily exertions; and the effect of the combi-
nation of power against divided strength.

The native Javanese are in general too remote from
civilization, to have any wants that are not easily satis-
fied in a warm and fertile climate. No attempt is made
to enslave their persons ; and they find the government
of the Dutch less vexatious than that of others, who
divide some share of the sovereignty of the island with
them. The Sultan of Mataran rules to the east, the
Emperor of Java in the centre, and the King of Bantam
to the west ; while the coast and effective power almost
entirely belong to Holland. Those other sovereigns are

descended from foreigners also : being Arabians, who

imported the Mahometan religion into Java, and ac-
quired the dominion of the country ; a few inhabitants
in the mountains excepted, who have preserved their
independence and their faith, and among other articles,
that of the transmigration of souls. According to. the
Dutch accounts, nothing can be more tyrannic than those
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Mahometan rulers. The Emperor of Java is said to main-
tain his authority by an army of many thousand men,
dispersed throughout his territories, beside a numerous
female guard about his person. These military ladies are
trained, it seems, to arms, withoutneglecting thoseaccom-
plishments which may occasion a change in the occupa-
tion of someamong them, rendering them the companions,
instead of being the attendants, of his Imperial Majesty.
This singular institution may owe its origin to the fa-
cility of obtaining recruits, if it be true, as the same ac-
counts pretend, that the number of female births exceeds,
very considerably, that of males in Java.

Most of the slaves are imported into it from Celebes
and other Eastern islands. They do not form a corps;
or have any bond of union. Nor is the general conduct
of their owners towards them calculated to aggravate the
misfortune of being the property of others. They are
not forced to excessive labour. They have sufficient
sustenance; but many of the males among them, who
had formerly, perhaps, led an independent life, till made
captives in their wars, have been found to take offence
against their masters, upon very slight occasions, and to
wreak their vengeance by assassination. The appre-
hension of such an event is among the motives for pre-
ferring, at Batavia, female slaves, for every use to which
they can be applied ; so that the number purchased of
them much exceeds that of the other sex. The slaves

263

Batavia.

Sp ——
i EE
264

Batavia.
a

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

when determined on revenge often swallow, for the pur-
pose of acquiring artificial courage, an extraordinary
dose’ of opium, and soon becoming frantic as well as
desperate, not only stab the objects of their hate, but
sally forth to attack, in like manner, every person they
meet, till self-preservation renders it necessary to destroy
them. They are said in that state to be running a muck ;
and instances of it are not more common among slaves,
than among free natives of the country, who, in the an-
guish' for losing their money, effects, and sometimes
their families, at gaming, to which they are violently
addicted, or under the pressure of some other passion or
misfortune, have recourse to the same remedy, with the
same fatal effects. sf 1

~ A fondness for play, and. a fondness for-opium, are not
uncommon among the Chinese also at Batavia; but the
habits of restraint and moderation in which they are bred,
and the cautious principles instilled into them, curb their
disposition; and prevent them from falling into the same
excesses. They are, indeed, much moré capable than the
others of conceiving formidable designs against the go-
vernment; and in the year 17 40 a considerable number of
Chinese, residing in different parts of the country; joined
in a revolt under the command of aman; who said he was
descended from an Emperor of China; ‘and who, being
aided also by several Javanese, attacked Batavia, but was
repulsed.’ A fire, some days afterwards; took place among
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the Chinese buildings in that city, and several of the own-
ers were accused of opposing, with arms, the extinguish-
ment of it, with a view, as was attributed to them, of the
conflagration’s spreading to the whole town, that, in the
confusion, they might assassinate the Europeans, and
become masters of the place. The alarm was such, that
the Dutch government gave instant orders to put all the
Chinese heads of families to death ; and the sailors from
the vessels in the road were brought ashore, and induced,
for the sake of plunder, to share in putting this bloody
edict into execution. The unfortunate Chinese made
not’ the least resistance. This dreadful deed was not
approved by the Directors of the Company in Holland ;
and much apprehension being entertained that the: fact
would excite the indignation of the Emperor of China,
deputies were sent to him the following year, to apolo:
gize' forthe measure, as founded upon necessity. Those
deputies were agreeably surprised on finding that thé
Emperor calmly answered, that ‘‘ he was little solicitous
‘.for the fate of unworthy subjects, who, in the pursuit
t'of lucre, had quitted their: Sonal: and ahandaned
¢ the.tombs of their ancestors.’

... For:those; however, of - ir ancestors, whom they
have lost since theiremigration to Batavia, the survivors
seem ta have the utmost veneration. A considerable
tract of ground is set apart for their remains ; and much
expence incurred in erecting monuments to their memory:

265

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——— ee
LL TR
266

Batavia.
P= EEE

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Every family above indigence has a separate vault, ge-
nerally surrounded by a wall, in the form of a horse
shoe, raised obliquely, so as that the opening of the shoe
is level with the ground; and opposite to that opening
is the door into the vault, upon which are several co-
lumns of inscriptions, When a Chinese of note here
dies, his nearest relations announce the melancholy
event, in form, to all the branches of the family. The
body is washed, perfumed, and dressed in the best ap-
parel of the deceased. The corpse is then seated in a

‘chair ; and his wives, children, and relations, fall down

before it and weep. On the third day, itis put into a
coffin, which 1s placed in one of the best apartments,
hung for the occasion with white linen cloth, the colour,
with them, of mourning. In the middle of the apart-
ment an altar is erected, and on it the portrait of the
deceased is placed, with incense burning near it. The
sons stand on one side of the coffin, dressed in white
coarse linen, and making every sign of sorrow; while
the widow and female relations are heard lamenting be-
hind a curtain. On the day of burial, the whole family
assembles, and the corpse is conveyed to the grave with
much solemn pomp. Images of men and women, rela-
tions of the family, {asamongst the ancient Romans) and
even of animals, together with wax tapers and incenso-
ries, are carried first in the procession. Then follow the
priests with musical instruments, and after them the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

corpse upon a bier, attended by the sons of the deceased,
clothed as before in white, and leaning upon crutches,
as if disabled, through grief, from supporting themselves
erect. The female relationsare carried in chairs, hung with
curtains of white silk, concealing them from view; but
their lamentations are distinctly heard ; and other women
are hired, Who are trained to utter shrieks still louder and
more piercing; which last is also a custom still retained
in some parts of Europe. Previous tothe funeral, a table

267

Batavia.
i

with fruits and other eatables is laid before the corpse,
and wax figures of servants placed on each side, as atten-

~ dants upon it.
~ The Chinese are said to be now again as numerous
as ever in and about Batavia; for however imminent
the danger, to which the Dutch allege they were ex-
posed by the intended former insurrection of this people,
and however cruel and unjustifiable the Ghinese con-
sider the conduct of the Dutch towards them, at that
time, the occasion they have for each other has brought
them again together; and it is acknowledged by the
latter, that the settlement could scarcely subsist without
the industry and ingenuity of the former. It is said,
indeed, that alse in the Philippine Islands the natives
can be turned to little use; and the Spaniards are so in-
dolent, that the Chinese there are as numerous and as
necessary as in Java.

Both those European nations, falling into the faults,
268

Batavia. .

—
MEIOTIC.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

may share the fate, of their predecessors, the Portugueze.
There 1s a race of the latter still remaining .at Batavia;
many of them are artificers, and servants in families.
Even the ladies here not only speak the language of the
country, and the Dutch, but find it convenient, likewise,
to learn Portugueze, which, continuing still to be under-
stood in most of the old European settlements in Asia,
shews how deep a root that nation had taken during its
prosperity in this quarter of the world. Their language
now has survived their dominion, and even their religion
here; their descendants having gradually embraced the
Calvinistic tenets of the government: a singular instance,
perhaps, of Portugueze prayers and congregation out of
the pale of the popish communion.

It is a plain indication of the inhabitants of the in-
terior parts of Java not being able or inclined to consume
many imported and costly manufactures, that the shops
of the capital are not like those of Rio de Janeiro, for
example, which contain complete assortments of the
most curious manufactures, for the use of the numerous
and thriving Portugueze in the inner settlements; where-

as at Batavia, there are few other than brokers’ shops,

dealing in inferior goods, and second-hand articles. But
there are large storehouses for holding the rich products
of the Molucca or spice 1slands, to be distributed from
hence to the rest of the world; beside coffee, pepper,
sugar, and arrack, produced upon the spot. ‘The nutmeg,
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

mace, and clove, so long confined to the very small
islands of Ternate, Banda, and Amboyna, are, no doubt,
capable of being cultivated in other soils ; but the Dutch
Company, in order to preserve that trade entirely to
themselves, and to prevent even their own commodities
from overstocking the market, which might affect their
price, fell upon a most extraordinary measure, which
was the establishment of persons appointed with strict
instructions, and considerable means of execution, under
the name of extirpators, for the purpose of actually root-
ing out, from every place where they could penetrate,
the trees which bear these grateful and valuable produc-
tions, except on such small spots, and in such few num-
bers, as promised to secure the exclusive property and
sale of them to the contrivers of a project thus calculated

to counteract the bountiful intent of nature. The nut-

meg had been accordingly destroyed by the extirpators
in all the Moluccas, except Banda; and a dreadful
eruption of a volcano in that island, a very few years
ago, so effectually buried in its ashes, or otherwise in-
jured the vegetable productions there, ‘that, for some
time, no slight apprehension was entertained of a great
diminution in the supply of that valuable spice, and of
the Dutch Company consequently becoming losers by
their inordinate thirst of gain. But their delegates are
become now so much more liberal, that one of them gave,

from the medical garden at Batavia, a young growing
VOL. I. Mm :

269

Batavia.

 
270 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Baia. Nutmeg plant, and a nut, in a state supposed capable of
= germination, to a person belonging to the Embassy, who
committed it immediately to the care of a gentleman,
then bound for England, in order to be put in his Ma-
jesty’s rich botanical garden at Kew; from whence, had
the plants succeeded there, this tree might have been
propagated in the British plantations in the West Indies;
in like manner as the coffee tree was transplanted to the
French West Indies, in the beginning of the present
century, from a very few specimens in the botanic gar-
den at Paris. The nutmeg plant, however, suffered in

the passage, and was left at St. Helena.

The nutmeg tree is a beautiful vegetable. The stem,
with a smooth brown bark, rises perfectly straight. Its
strong and numerous branches proceed regularly from it
in an oblique direction upwards. They bear large oval
leaves pendulous from them, some a foot in length.
The upper and outer surface of the leaf is smooth, and
of a deep agreeable green. The under and inner surface
is marked with a strong nerve in the middle of the leaf,
from the foot-stalk to the point; and from this middle
nerve others proceed obliquely towards the point and
edges of the leaf; but what distinguishes most this inner
surface, is its uniform bright brown colour, without the
least intermixture of green, and as if strewed all over
with a fine brown powder. The whole leaf is charac-
terized by its fragrant odour, sufficiently denoting the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

fruit which the tree produces. This fruit, when fresh,
is about the size and figure of a common nectarine. It
consists of an outward rind, between which and the
inward shell, is found a reticulated membrane, or di-
vided skin, which, when dried, is called the mace.
What is known by the name of nutmeg, is the kernel
within the shell, and is soft in its original state.

The same medical garden at Batavia contains a clove
tree. The clove is only the germ of the fruit with the
flower cup containing it. The leaf is oval, - smooth,
small, narrow, tender, and aromatic. The camphor tree

bears leaves not unlike those of the clove, but stronger,

and together with every other part of the tree smells of
that substance. It is extracted, by boiling, in common
water, the root, trunk, branches, and leaves, when the
camphor, rising to the surface of the boiling water, is
easily separated from it. The cinnamon tree may be dis-
tinguished, not only by the three nerves which always
regularly divide the inner surface of its oval leaf, but
also by the same fragrant smell, which issues on bruis-
ing any part of the leaves or branches of the tree, that
is known to be afforded by its bark. The pepper, which
is observed to grow always best very near to the Equator,
is a creeping plant or vine generally supported on a
living tree. Its leaves, which are of a dark green colour,
are not very unlike those of the common hazel, but are
extremely pungent. The pepper grows in clusters, like

271

Batavia.

re eee ee
72

Batavia.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the grape, but of a much smaller size. It is a species of
the pepper plant that affords the leaf called betel, chewed
so universally by the southern Asiatics, and serving for
the inclosure of a few slices or bits of the areca, from
thence erroneously called the betel, nut. The areca nut
tree is among the smallest of the tribe of palms, but
comes next in beauty to the mountain cabbage tree of
the West Indies: the latter differing, chiefly in its size

and amazing height, from the areca nut tree, the diameter

of whose jointed trunk seldom exceeds four inches, or
height, twelve feet. The symmetry of each is perfect.
The columns of a temple cannot be more regular than
the trunk, which rises without a branch, while the
broad and spreading leaves which crown the top, form
the ornamented capital. The areca nut, when dried, has
some similitude in form and taste to the common nut-
meg, but is of a smaller size.

Concerning the supposed upas, or poison tree of Java,
of which the account by Foersch attracted little notice,
at least in England, till it was admitted in a note to Doc-
tor Darwin's celebrated poem of the Botanic Garden, in-
quiries were made by Doctor Gillan, and others belong-
ing to the Embassy. Foersch had certainly been a surgeon
for some time in Java, and had travelled into some parts of
the interior of the country; but his relation of a tree so
venomous as to be destructive, by its exhalations, at some
miles distance, is compared there to the fictions of Baron
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Munchausen, or as a bold attempt to impose upon
the credulity of persons at a distance. Yet as it was
thought a discredit to the country to be suspected of pro-
ducing a vegetable of so venomous a quality, a Dutch
dissertation has been written in refutation of the story.
It appears from thence that information was requested,
on the part of the Dutch government of Batavia, from

the Javanese prince, in whose territories this dreadful

vegetable was asserted to be growing; and that the
prince, in his answer, denied any knowledge of such a
production. Rumphius, indeed, a respectable author in
natural history, of the last century, mentions a poisonous
tree growing at Macassar, to which he gives the name of
toxicaria ; and relates that not only the red resin contain-
ed a deadly poison, but that the drops falling from the
leaves upon the men employed in collecting this resin
from the trunk, produced, unless they took particular
care in covering their bodies, swellings and much 1ll-
ness; and that the exhalations from the tree were fatal to
some small birds attempting to perch upon its branches.
Many of the particulars, indeed, of this account, how-
ever far removed from that of Foersch, are given not
upon the author's own observation, and may have been
“exaggerated. It is a common opinion at Batavia that
there exists, in that country, a vegetable poison, which,
rubbed on the daggers of the Javanese, renders the slight-
est wounds incurable; tho some European practitioners

273

Batavia.
274

Batavia.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

have of late asserted, that they had cured persons stabbed

~ by those weapons; but not without having taken the

precaution of keeping the wound long open, and pro-
curing a very copious suppuration. One of the keepers
of the medical garden at Batavia assured Doctor Gillan,
that a tree distilling a poisonous juice was in that collec-
tion ; but that its qualities were kept secret from most peo-
ple in the settlement, lest the knowledge of them should
find its way to the slaves, who might be tempted to make
an ill use of it. In the same medical garden, containing,
it seems, hurtful, as well as grateful, substances, is found
also the plant from whence is made the celebrated gout
remedy, or moxa of Japan, mentioned in the works of
Sir William Temple. It is nothing more than that
species of the artemisia, hence called moxa, of Linnaeus,
which is converted, by a more easy process than would
answer with other plants, into a kind of soft tinder, ca-
pable when set on fire, of acting as a gentle caustic, and
continuing to burn with an equal and moderate heat.
The whole country abounds with esculent fruits ;
and, unlike the northern regions, whose soil apparently
is barren during the tedious season of the winter, and
brings little to maturity till towards autumn, the presents
of nature, within the tropics, are distributed in plenty
throughout the whole circle of the year. In March, among
other fruits, the mangosteen was ripe. It abounds in
Java, where it 1s considered as the most delicious of all
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

fruits. It is rarely found, in the warmest latitudes, to
the northward of the Equator, and is neither in the
West Indies, or on the continent of India. It is about
the size of a nonpareil apple, and consists of a dark-red,
thick and firm rind, containing from five to seven seeds,
of which a white pulp that covers them, is the only part
that is eaten. It is of a delicate subacid taste; not much
differing from, but preferable to, the same sort of substance,

inclosing the kernels of the sour-sop in the West Indies.

Pine apples are planted here, not in gardens but in large
fields ; and are carried, like turnips, in heaps, upon
carts to market, and sold for considerably less than a
penny each, where money is cheaper than in England.
It was a common practice to clean swords, or other in-
struments of steel or iron, by running them through
pine apples, as containing the strongest and cheapest
acid for dissolving the rust that covered them. Sugar
sold for above five pence a pound. All sorts of provi-
sions were cheap; and the ships’ crews fed on fresh
meat every day. :

In a place so low, warm, and marshy, the number of
noxious reptiles must undoubtedly be considerable ; but
not many accidents happen from them. The lacerta
iguana, or guana, tho chiefly a land animal, differs not
much, in its exterior form, from the lacerta crocodilus,
or crocodile, which frequents the canals and rivers of
this country. The former, however, is a harmless ; the

275

Batavia.

 
276

Batavia.

Jd
Cr ——————T

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

other, a most voracious animal. It certainly is an object
of fear; and, by no very uncommon transition of senti-
ment, gradually becomes an object of veneration; and
offerings are made to it, as to a deity. When a Javanese
feels himself diseased, he will sometimes build a kind
of coop, and fill it with such eatables as he thinks most
agreeable to the crocodiles. He places the coop upon
the bank of the river or canal, in the perfect confidence
that, by the means of such offerings, he will get rid of
his complaints; and persuaded, that if any person could
prove so wicked as to take away those viands, such
person would draw upon himself the malady, for the
cure of which the offering was made. The worship of
the crocodiles is indeed a folly among men of an an-
cient date ; as Herodotus, in that part of his history styled
Euterpe, expressly says, that ¢ among some of the
‘ Egyptian tribes the crocodiles are sacred, but regarded
‘“ as enemies among others. The inhabitants, in the
‘“ environs of Thebes, and the lake Moeris, are firmly
‘“ persuaded of their sanctity ; and both these tribes
““ bring up and tame a crocodile, adorning his ears with
‘“ ear-rings of precious stones and gold, and putting or-
‘““namental chains about his fore feet. They also re-
““ gularly give him victuals, offer victims to him, and
““ treat him in the most respectful manner while living,
‘“and, when dead, embalm and bury him in a conse-
‘“ crated coffin.”
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

To this superstition, it is possible that the observation
may have contributed, of the few accidents which hap-
pen, notwithstanding the voraciousness of those ani-
mals, without reflecting upon the unwieldiness of their
bodies, or inflexibility of their necks, and consequent
difficulty of turning in pursuit of prey. The presence
of them does not prevent the natives, as well as the
slaves of both sexes at Batavia, from plunging promis-
cuously, once or twice a day, into the river and canals.
Those canals are continued through the country, to the
foot of the mountains, many miles distant from the
coast. The principal cultivation there is rice ; and so
much does the climate yield to culture, that this pro-
duction may be seen, at the same time, in the various
stages of its growth: at first, its tender leaves just peep-
ing above the water which inundates the soil; in its
second stage, with its withering tops, in consequence of
having been transplanted, and before the second spring
of vegetation has taken effect ; and, in its last stage, when
the ears are bending with the weight of the ripened
grain. Rice happened to be uncommonly scarce when
the Lion was at Batavia; but it was still sold under a
penny for a pound weight. In the ground ploughed
for the purpose of planting it, the furrows appeared to
consist as much of water as of soil. Buffaloes are always
employed in this labour, for which they are peculiarly

adapted, being almost an amphibious animal, in the
VOL. I Nn

277

* Batavia.
278

Batavia,

—

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

sense of delighting in water, and remaining to the
neck in ponds or rivers, except when obliged to quit
them in search of food. Of these animals, there are two
species or varieties here. The most common are of a
slight make, the skin of a dirty dun colour, very thinly
covered with hair; the head elongated, and muzzle
pointed ; no dewlap; and the horns uncommonly long,
turned so much backwards, that the animal must rather
but like a ram, than toss with them like a bull. The
other buffaloe varies much in the colour of its skin and
hair, with the latter of which it is more thickly covered ;
it has short, nearly erect, horns, a strong neck, larger
limbs, and appears of a wilder nature ; having few spe-
cific qualities in common with the first, except the
propensity of keeping in the water. The buffaloes are
yoked to carts, with which they wade, with infinite
labour, through deep and miry roads, running parallel
to others kept i mm excellent order, but reserved for the
carriages of gentlemen, leading to their country seats.
Of these, many, indeed, now are empty: the number of
new comers not being sufficient to replace those who
die, or hasten to escape from a country, where they
might otherwise be retained for ever.

In the districts round Batavia, immediately subject to
the Dutch, it is calculated that near fifty thousand Javanese
families are settled, containing six persons, upon an ave-
rage, to afamily, or three hundred thousand persons in the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

whole. The city of Batavia, including the suburbs, con-
tains near eight thousand houses. Those of the Chinese
arelow, and crammed with people. The Dutch houses are
well built, clean, and spacious, and their construction,
for the most part, well suited to the climate. The doors
and windows are wide and lofty. The ground floors
are covered with flags of marble, which being sprinkled
frequently with water, give a pleasant coolness to the
apartment; buta considerable proportion of those was
untenanted : a fact which denoted a declining settlement.
Among other circumstances which announced the same,
were those of the Company's vessels lying useless in the
road, for want of cargoes to fill, or men to navigate them;
no ships of war to protect their commerce, even against
pirates, who attacked their vessels sometimes in the sight
of Batavia road ; an invasion threatened from the Isle of
France; the place in no condition of defence, particu-
larly against an enemy less affected by the climate than
Europeans: sometimes as many of the troops in hos-
pitals as fit for duty; commissioners expected from
Holland to reform abuses. Such a commission, i1m-
plying a general suspicion, could not be welcome ;
nor was it quite certain whether, in some minds, its
arrival, or that of the enemy, was deprecated the most
cordially

In the midst of such gloomy prospects their attention
to their English guests was not diminished. The Embas-

279

Batavia.

emt
J A
280

Batavia.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

sador being indisposed, he was pressed to spend some
time at one of the Governor's houses, at a considerable
distance from town, and in a very pleasant and healthy
spot, amidst the mountains. But he thought it his duty
to proceed upon his mission, as soon as the ships were
supplied with what they wanted ; and he embarked from
Batavia on the seventeenth of March, in order to be
ready to enter into the Straits of Banka as soon as the
monsoon, or periodical current of the wind, blowing in
these seas for about six months with a northerly, and
six with a southerly direction, should be favourable for
vessels bound to China from the southward. The change
which is gradual, begins frequently to take place about
this time.

The Lion in her passage from Batavia, touched upon
a new or unnoticed knoll, with three fathoms depth of
water over it. This knoll did not exceed the size of a
long boat, with six or seven fathoms water all round it.
From this spot the westernmost windmill on the Ca-
reening island bore south-south-east ; and the hospital
or Purmerent island south-east by east. As the ship
touched by the stern, the guns at that extremity were
moved forward towards the head; the kedge or small
anchor was carried out, and the ship was warped or
towed towards it, and got clear without any damage.
Had the knoll risen nearer to the surface, the accident
might have been attended with serious consequences;
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

281

and the want of a tender, such as the Jackall was meant straits ot

to be, was now much felt, as she might have preceded
the larger ships, and sounded the depth of water in any
unknown or suspected place. The Company’s Com-

missioners at Canton had destined two small vessels be--

longing to the Company for this purpose ; but in their
late dispatches to the Embassador, received by him at Ba-
tavia, they expressed their regret that those vessels were
still otherwise employed. It appeared that even should
the Jackall join, another vessel would still be useful ; and
the Embassador sent back to Batavia to purchase such a
one as the service required; to which, as a mark of re-
spect to Admiral the Duke of Clarence, he gave his Royal
Highness's name.

The little squadron immediately proceeded towards
the opening which leads to the Straits of Banka. The
island of Sumatra, on its eastern side, forms the western
side of those Straits, as its southern extremity forms the
northern side of the Straits of Sunda. Nearly in the
angle made by those last mentioned Straits, and with
a view into those of Banka, is situated North Island,
already mentioned as the rendezvous agreed upon in
case of separation. The depth of water is very irregular
near that island, the water shoaling, in some spots, in
one cast, from twelve to seven fathoms, and in others
from seven to four. This irregularity was often ob-
served throughout the Straits; beside what was occa-

 

Sunda.

 
282 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

sits of sioned by shoals of coral so very near the surface as to
dn bo easily distinguished by the whitened sheet of water
over them.

Very soon after the Lion's return to this spot, the
long lost Jackall came in sight. It had been conjectured
that in the stormy night, in which she had lost company
of the ships, or in her attempt afterwards to follow them,
she had met with some severe misfortune. She had been
manned by a part of the Lion's crew; and their former
companions, who knew not then of Great Britain's
being at war, could not have even the consolation of
supposing their friends, tho captive, yet alive. The
joy of seeing her was very general. She had, in fact,
being damaged in the beginning of the voyage, returned
into port to repair ; and afterwards used every diligence to
join the ships. She was obliged to stop, for refreshments,
a few days at Madeira, where she arrived a short time
after the Lion had left it. She pursued the latter to St.
Jago, which she reached, likewise, some days too late.
From thence to North Island she did not come once to
anchor. She was what navigators call a good sea-boat,
being compactly built, and little liable to perish by mere
foul weather; but neither did she afford much shelter
against the hardships of a rough voyage, or make her
way so quickly as larger vessels against violent waves.
Her provisions were damaged by salt water ; and her
crew was reduced to a very scanty pittance when she
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

joined the Lion. Mr., now Lieutenant Saunders, who
commanded her, got much credit for his conduct through-
out the voyage.

She was very soon ready to accompany the Lion; but
the monsoon was still adverse. This delay was the
more regretted, as the crews of both ships now began
to be very sickly. Their commanders had, indeed, the
satisfaction of having past six months, from leaving
Portsmouth, without losing a man, out of six hundred
persons: Such a circumstance seldom happens any
where. The proportion of deaths, in a similar period,
in the healthiest spot ashore, is, at least, one to every
hundred, and in London two. It must be confessed,
however, that the seeds of dangerous diseases had taken
root among the crews. The evil consequences of a sea
life, and of a hot climate, began to show themselves ;
and the number of persons on the sick list increased
considerably. The ships often moved to different parts
of the coasts of Java and Sumatra, in order to find out
the healthiest and coolest spot, where they might wait
for the favourable moment of proceeding further.

It occurred to the mathematical gentlemen, on board
the ships, to employ their leisure in measuring a base on
shore, (they having the advantage of an excellent in-
strument for taking angles,) in order to ascertain the ac-
curacy of the former charts of the northern entrance
into the Straits of Sunda. With this view a level beach

283

Straits of
Sunda.

De ————
ORS
2814

Straits of
Sunda.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA,

on the Sumatra shore, nearly opposite to the usual place
of anchorage, was chosen as most convenient for the
purpose. The northern extremity of the base com-
menced near the watering place; and was continued
from thence to the distance of eighteen chains sixty-five
links, or four hundred and ten yards, making with the
meridian an angle of twenty-eight degrees. From hence
it was prolonged, as nearly in the same direction as the
trending of the shore would allow, twenty-five chains
or five hundred and fifty yards further. From the ex-
tremities of this base, sets of angles were taken, with a
considerable degree of accuracy, by a theodolite of Mr.
Ramsden’s, and the situations of North Island, Pulo
Sina close to it, the anchorage of the Lion and Hin-
dostan, the three islands close to each other called
the Sisters, and Pulo Coppia were hence determined.
Pulo Sina, Pulo Coppia, and one of the Sisters were
afterwards used as stations to ascertain the eastern and

‘western points of Thwart-the-way, Button Island, and

Nicholas Point on the Isle of Java; as also to verify the
situations of the first mentioned places, as they had
been determined from the first base. The Hindostan

being about to quit her station at North Island, and

stand over to Nicholas bay, on the north side of Java, a
good opportunity offered for extending the survey from
Nicholas Point to the southward, as far as Angeree
Point.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

That ship having brought to in the bay, the latitude
of her anchorage was found by a meridional altitude of
the sun, and the bearing of North Island taken carefully
with a compass, mounted with a pair of sights to direct
the eye, commonly called an azimuth compass; and, in
order to obtain the distance of the ship from Pulo Salier,
a small island in the bay, with more precision than
merely by computation, the deck of the Hindostan, from
stem to stern, was assumed for a base; from each extre-
mity of which, angles were observed with two sextants
at the same instant of time; and the distance calculated
from thence trigonometrically. The ship being very
near the island, this method was sufficiently correct.
The latitude of Pulo Salier, was found to be five de-
grees, fifty minutes, thirty seconds, south of the Equator;
and its longitude, by an immersion of the first satellite
of Jupiter observed through two telescopes placed on
the island, proved to be one hundred and five degrees,
fifty-six minutes, thirty seconds east, on computing by
the apparent time of the immersion of the satellite at
Greenwich, as given in the Nautical Ephemeris.

The latitude of Nicholas point was found to be five
degrees, fifty minutes, forty seconds south ; and the lon-
gitude, deduced from the abovementioned observation
of Jupiter's satellite, one hundred and five degrees, fifty-
four minutes, thirty seconds east. From various inter-

sections and observations, the latitudes of the following
VOL. I. Oo

285

Straits of
Sunda.
EE
286

Straits of
Sunda.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

places were determined; and their longitudes deduced
also from the said observation of the satellite.

) South Latitude. East Longitude.
Java head - 6°47, 7 104° 50’ 30"
‘The three Sisters 5:42 50 105 41 36
Thwart-the-way 5.55 105 43

North Island - 5 38 105 43 30
Angeree Point 6. 2 105 47 30
Cap - - 5 58 30 105 48 30
Button - - 5 49 105 48 30

The rate of going of the several time-keepers was
easily ascertained ashore, by observing, on subsequent
nights, the appearance of any of the fixed stars in a par-
ticular point of the heavens. On the occasion of one of
those observations, an alarming circumstance occurred.
As Doctor Dinwiddie was going to apply his face close
to a tree, in order to be ready, in the proper position, to
observe a passing star, while some other person was to
have his eye upon a time-keeper, a snake of no mean
length, which had creptalong the trunk of the tree, and
within the bark that had been loosened from it, luckily
shewed its head soon enough to put the gentlemen on
their guard, and fix upon another tree for pursuing their
observations. |

They had afterwards occasion to visit the small islands
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

of the Cap and Button, differing much in appearance
from the level islands already mentioned : being so steep
and rugged, that it was difficult to get ashore upon them.
At a little distance, they might be mistaken for the re-
mains of old castles, mouldering into heaps of ruins, with
tall trees already growing upon the tops ; but, at a nearer
view, they betrayed evident marks of a volcanic origin.
Explosions from subterraneous fires, produce, for the
most part, hills of a regular shape, and terminating in
truncated cones; but when from a subaqueous volcano,
eruptions are thrown up above the surface of the sea, the
materials, falling back into the water, are more irregularly
dispersed, and generally leave the sides of the new crea-
tion, naked and misshapen, as in the instance of Am-
sterdam, and of those smaller spots called, from some
resemblance in shape, the Gap and Button.

In the Cap were found two caverns, running hori-
zontally into the side of the rock ; and in these were a
number of thosebirds’ nests, so much prized by Chinese

epicures. They seemed to be composed of fine filaments, -

cemented together by a transparent viscous matter, not
unlike what is left by the foam ofthe sea, upon stones
alternately covered by the tide, or those gelatinous ani-
mal substances found floating on every coast. The nests
adhere to each other, and to the sides of the cavern,
mostly in rows, without any break or interruption. The
birds that build these nests are small grey swallows,

287

Straits of
Sunda.

2a
288

EMBASSY TO GHINA.

swaitsof with bellies of a dirty white. They were flying about

Sunda.

 

 

in considerable numbers; but they were so small, and
their flight so quick, that they escaped the shot fired at
them. The same nests are said also to be found in deep
caverns, at the foot of the highest mountains in the middle
of Java, and at a distance from the sea, from which the
birds, it is thought, derive no materials, either for their
food, or the construction oftheir nests ; asit does notappear
probable they should fly, in search of either, over the
intermediate mountains, which are very high, or against
the boisterous winds prevailing thereabouts. They feed
on insects, which they find hovering overstagnated pools
between the mountains, and for catching which, their
wide-opening beaks are particularly adapted. They
prepare their nests from the best remnants of their food.
Their greatest enemy is the kite, who often intercepts
them in their passage to and from the caverns, which
are generally surrounded with rocks of grey limestone,
or white marble. The nests are placed in horizontal
rows at different depths, from fifty to five hundred feet.

The colour and value of the nests depend on the quan-

tity and quality of the insects caught, and, perhaps, also
on the situation where they are built. Their value is
chiefly determined by the uniform fineness and deli-
cacy of their texture: those that are white and transpa-
rent being most esteemed, and fetching often in China
their weight in silver. These nests are a considerable
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

object of traffic among the Javanese; and many are em-
ployed in it from their infancy. The birds having
spent near two months in preparing their nests, lay each
two eggs, which are hatched in about hfteen days.
When the young birds become fledged, it is thought
time to seize upon their nests, which is done regularly
thrice a year, and is effected by means of ladders of
bamboo and reeds, by which the people descend into
the cavern; but when it is very deep, rope ladders are
preferred. This operation is attended with much dan-
ger; and several break their necks in the attempt. The
inhabitants of the mountains generally employed in it,
begin always by sacrificing a buffaloe, which custom
is constantly observed by the Javanese, on the eve of
every extraordinary enterprize. They also pronounce
some prayers, anoint themselves with sweet-scented oil,
and smoke the entrance of the cavern with gum benja-
min. Near some of those caverns a tutelar goddess is
worshipped, whose priest burns incense, and lays his
protecting hands on every person, preparing to descend
into the cavern. A flambeau is carefully prepared at the
same time, with a gum which exudes from a tree grow-
ing in the vicinity, and is not easily extinguished by
fixed air or subterraneous vapours. The swallow, which
builds those nests, is described as not having its tail fea-
thers marked with white spots, which is a character at-
tributed to it by Linnzus ; and it is possible that there

289

Straits of
Sunda.

 
290

Sumatra.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

are two species, or varieties, of the swallow, whose nests
are alike valuable.

Nothing seemed to be known about these nests at the
southern extremity of Sumatra; at least by such of the
natives as visited frequently the ships, having fruits and
other vegetables for sale; of whom some came in boats,
of which both ends were alike made sharp, with a
moving rudder to each, in order to be ready to steer
backwards or forwards with equal ease; and others in
canoes, so narrow as to have outriggers on the side to
prevent their oversetting. Each of these canoes was
managed by a single person, using an oar widened at
both ends, to serve the purpose of paddling alternately
on each side. The boats, as well as the canoes, were
manned by a people who reside chiefly along the coasts
of most of the islands in the Chinese seas, and are known
by the general name of Malays, having a language and
manners common to them all. The southern extremity
of Sumatra is peopled, but very thinly, by a set of them
who seem to lead an indolent and miserable life. Their
dwellings near the shore were nothing more than sheds,
in which they could not stand upright. Their garments
did not extend very much beyond the waist. Such a
condition, indeed, which in most parts of Europe would
imply the utmost wretchedness, is guarded by the cli-
mate from any actual suffering.

Several large tracts of land in that neighbourhod are
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

covered only with a long coarse grass, growing wild upon  sumatra.

a soil similar to that which produced the surrounding
woods, and had therefore, probably, been cleared from
trees by human industry ; but, being now abandoned to
spontaneous vegetation, seemed to imply a former popu-
lation greater than the present. No degree of devastation
or decline can be, indeed, surprising, if the inhabitants
were in a constant state of hostility, which is to be in-
ferred from the caution still subsisting amongst them,
of never going, tho otherwise half naked, without being
armed. A people that is poor is not apt to purchase
what is superfluous; that is lazy, to labour for what is
useless; or, in a hot climate, to carry what is cumber-
some, without necessity. The weapon worn by them
is a criss, or dagger, which, to render it still more
fatal to those whom they may wound, they are said to
steep in some poisonous juice of vegetables. These
people appeared generally of a low stature, brown com-
plexion, with broad faces, large mouths, strong black
hair, and very little beards, which, as is said, they
carefully pick out with pincers. Few of those who were
seen by the passengers of the Lion and Hindostan had
countenances which indicated any control of the mind
over the sensual or vulgar passions.

Some degree of considerate civilization must, how-

ever, have directed their conduct in the following in- .

stance. Sir Erasmus Gower, previous to his departure

291
292

Sumatra,

meme eer

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

for Batavia, caused a board to be nailed to a post, erected
on the Sumatra beach, on which board were written
directions for the Jackall, in case she should call there
in his absence. On his return, he perceived that the
board had been taken down; and the nails, which, it
seems, were valuable to the Malays, carried away. And
here a mere savage would have rested satisfied with the

gratification of his own wants, and little solicitous about

the object for which the board had been placed there by

strangers; but the Malay, willing to reconcile that ob-

ject with his own, took care, after removing the nails,

to replace the board with wooden pegs; and it was found

in this condition, inverted indeed, through ignorance of
the language written on it. That letters are not unknown,

even amongst this tribe of Malays, was evident from the

circumstance of some gentlemen of the Lion meeting, as

they were walking through the woods, in a conspicuous
path, two lines, probably in the Malay language, cut

upon the thin bark of a bamboo, tied across a post.

One of the seamen of the Lion, who by chance was
left alone on shore, with no inconsiderable quantity of
linen to be washed, and who strolled unthinkingly to a
neighbouring village, was hospitably treated and assist-
ed; but such is the precariousness of the manners
and principles of this people, that the very next day
some of them murdered one of the most valuable
artificers belonging to the Embassy, who went with a
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

293

small bundle of linen in his hand to wash in a part of sums.

the river a little above the shore. This man was as re-
markable for the ingenuity of his mind as for a thought-
lessness of conduct, which rendered the former of little
~ use to his own welfare. Beside being an excellent work-
man at his own trade of a joiner and cabinet-maker, he
knew enough of several others to supply occasionally
the want of those who had been bred to them; and was
therefore highly useful in situations, like the present,
where artificers must be scarce. He had seen better
days; but the good humour and merry disposition,
which he still retained, rendered him a favourite with
the crew; and few deaths would have occasioned, somuch
as his, a detestation against the authors of it. This part
of Sumatra was under a sort of subjection to the King of
Bantam, who resided near the town of that name, on the
opposite coast of Java. It was determined to denounce
the murder to him; for tho the perpetrators, or cause,
or manner of it, could not be pointed out, yet the influ-
ence of his authority might produce a discovery lead-
ing to a punishment of the guilty. The Malays upon
this part of the coast were fearful of reprisals upon
them from the ships, and appeared no more; but they
alleged that the fact was committed not by any of the
inhabitants thereabouts, but by pirates, who sometimes
stopped there for water. These pirates are Malays also,

but chiefly from the more eastern islands, who sail in

VOL. I. Pp

rere.
994

Sumatra.
EIS

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

boats armed with four or six guns each, or more, and

going together in numerous fleets, had of late taken
several vessels, some belonging to the Dutch; and some
to the English settlements in India, called country ships,
as not trading out of Asia. Many such had been ob-
liged to be at the expence of hiring marines, or armed
men, to be kept on board for their better protection
against those pirates, whose vessels, being of a smaller
size, and drawing little water, can use their oars in
calms, and when they meet a superior force, often take
shelter in the deep recesses in the south-east extremity
of Sumatra; the whole of which is little more than a
forest of mangroves, growing out of a salt morass.

The mangrove extends its roots, if they may be so
termed, in a curve direction into the water from diffe-
rent parts of the trunk, forming arches to some distance,
until they reach the bottom covered by the sea. To
these roots, or inverted branches, oysters and other small

shell-fish are found frequently to adhere; and this cir-

cumstance has given rise to the assertion, sometimes
hazarded, of oysters growing upon trees. The bane-
ful atmosphere and nightly fogs, hanging upon such a
marshy soil, must extend their influence to N orth Island,
lying in its neighbourhood, and to the shipping at an-
chor near it. In the evening the clouds usually hung
low, and narrowed the horizon, there being no general
or rapid motion of the atmosphere to dispel them.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

295

The darkest of these clouds were charged with a large  sumatra.

quantity of electric matter, which shewed itself in vivid
sparks of lightning almost incessantly; but thunder was
seldom heard, itbearing but a small proportion to the light-
ning that was seen. The phosphoric light perceived
upon striking with the oar, or otherwise, upon the sur-
face of the sea, was certainly occasioned by lucid par-
ticles spread upon it; and upon touching with the hand
a wave, several of those particles remained perceptible
some time upon the skin. They did not render the sea
at night more brilliant than the myriads, on shore, of
the fire-fly, called by entomologists lampyris; whose
sparks are emitted from the two last circles of the abdo-
men, which appears to be affected as if by a kind of
alternate respiration of the insect, the abdomen filling
and darting light at every inspiration. The meteor called
a falling star is supposed to be rarely observable within
the tropics ; but some were now seen here moving with
much less celerity, and disappearing much less suddenly

than is generally observed in the temperate zones. Tho

Fahrenheit’s thermometer seldom rose in the shade above
eighty-five or eighty-six degrees, yet the air felt as if it
came out of an oven. It produced inertness and debility
even in the most healthy; and to this want of usual
agility was, in some degree, attributed the misfortune,
which happened now for the first time, of losing two of
296

Java. ©

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the seamen, who fell from the masts or yards into the
sea and were drowned.

The squadron determined to quit their present sta-
tion, in hope of finding a better at Nicholas point, which
is the most northerly of Java. They found it, in fact,
free from swamps and fogs; the land and sea breezes
constant, and the air generally clear, with very fine
weather, while deluges of rain were observed to fall on
the opposite shore. Tho the passage through the Straits
towards China, or from it, be sometimes quicker, by
keeping on the Sumatra side than on that of Java, the
delay of a day or two is well compensated by the greater
safety of the crew. The distance from North Island to
Nicholas point is about eighteen miles, and the course
north-west and south-east.

From Nicholas bay, proceeding easterly, the next is
the bay of Bantam, famed formerly for being the prin-
cipal rendezvous of the shipping from Europe in the
East. Bantam was the great mart for pepper and other
spices, from whence they were distributed to the rest of
the world. The chief factory of the English, as well as
Dutch, East India Company was settled there. The
merchants of Arabia and Hindostan resorted to it. Its
sovereigns were so desirous of encouraging trade, by giv-
ing security to foreign merchants against the violent and
revengeful disposition of the natives, that the crime of
EMBASSY TO GHINA.

murder was never pardoned when committed against a
stranger, but might be commuted by a foreigner fora
fine to the relations of the deceased. This place flou-
rished for a considerable time; but the Dutch having
conquered the neighbouring province of Jacatra, where
they since have built Batavia, and transferred their prin-
cipal business to it; and the English having removed
to Hindostan and China, and trade, in other respects,
having taken a new course, Bantam was reduced to a poor
remnant of its former opulence and importance. Other
circumstances have accelerated its decline. The bay is
so choked up with daily accessions of new earth washed
down from the mountains, as well as by coral shoals ex-
tending a considerable way to the eastward, that it is
inaccessible, at present, to vessels of burden. Even the
party, who went there from the Lion in her pinnace,
was obliged to remove into a canoe, in order to reach the
town. A fire destroyed most of the houses there; and
few have been since rebuilt. With the trade of Bantam
the power of its sovereign declined. In his wars with
other princes of Java he called in the assistance of the
Dutch; and from that period he became, in fact, their
captive. He resides in a palace, built in the European
style, within a fort garrisoned by a detachment from Bata-
via, of which the commander takes his orders not from
the King of Bantam, but from a Dutch chief or governor,
who lives in another fort adjoining thetown, and nearer

297

Java.

DT —————..,
CA ——
298

Java.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

to the sea side. His Bantamese majesty is allowed, how-
ever, to maintain a body of native troops, and has several
small armed vessels, by means of which he maintains au-
thority over some part of the south of Sumatra. His sub-
jects are obliged to sell to him all the pepper they raise in
either island, at a low price, which he is under contract
with the Dutch todeliver to them at a small advance, and
much under the marketable value of that commodity.
The present king joins the spiritual to the temporal
power, and is high priest of the religion of Mahomet ;
with which he mingles, indeed, some of the rites and
superstitions of the aboriginal inhabitants of Java: ador-
ing, for instance, the great banyan, or Indian fig tree,
which is likewise held sacred in Hindostan, and under
which religious rites might be conveniently performed ;
in like manner as all affairs of state are actually transacted
by the Bantamese, under some shadowing tree, by moon-
light. Upon application to his majesty, through the
Dutch chief, he immediately dispatched two of his
armed vessels to Sumatra, with orders to search for the
perpetrators of the murder lately committed there ; and
some time after the ships had left this neighbourhood,
intelligence was received that one of the guilty persons
was discovered and executed.

In Nicholas bay was a convenient rivulet for water-
ing; and at a little distance from the shore a village,
where buffaloes, poultry, fruit, and other vegetables
. EMBASSY TO CHINA.

were to be purchased at a reasonable rate. Fresh pro-
visions were served daily to the Lion's crew ; the decks
and beams washed with vinegar, and an allowance of it
given to the men; fires made to air the ship; and the
ventilators kept constantly at work. It was likewise
found advantageous to send the invalids and convales-
cents from the ships ashore, to take air and exercise every
day. The same was done at Angeree point, situate to
the southward of point Nicholas, where the Dutch had
a small battery of four guns, near a Malay village. Here
indigo was manufactured from the leaf, growing in the
neighbourhood. A bar at the mouth of the river at An-
geree prevents the freedom of its current, and the ley of
the indigo vats, thrown into it, must affect its good qua-
lities; which circumstances render it inferior, as a wa-
tering place, to Nicholas bay.

The lowest order of the people on the coast did not
appear to be obliged to perpetual labour, for the mere
preservation of their existence; but had leisure, means,
and disposition for amusements of different kinds. One
of the Malay entertainments consists in the display of
the various attitudes and postures of the same actor under
different masks. By dint of exertions and of long practice,
he had acquired such a power over the exterior muscles of

his body, as to give to each an independent voluntary

motion. Whenever his contortions weresouncommon as
to excite the wonder, and obtain the applause of the spec-

299

Java.
J

00

Java.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

tators, the performer immediately felt the effect of it, by
the quantity of the small copper coin; in use among
them, which came showering at his feet. The Malay
spectators were very numerous, and armed, as usual,
with their crisses. Their emotions, on observing any ex-.
traordinary feat upon the stage, were lively and instan-
taneous ; and some of the Europeans seated amongst them
were not altogether free from apprehension, lest the bustle
were preparatory to a treacherous attack upon them.
Notwithstanding this ill disposition of the natives,
the British seamen got soon into the habit of trafficking
familiarly with them. Some laid out a part of theirdearly
earned wages, in buying from them monkies, particu-
larly the simea aygula of Linnaeus, whose forehead always
seems as if combed back in atoupee with fashionable care;
and has cheeks capable of considerable distension, usually
called alforges, in which he crams, for future use, such
provisions as he cannot immediately consume. Others
preferred a bird called a mino, which is not unlike a
jackdaw in form and size; but remarkable for a yellow
ruff or naked membrane round its neck ; and is supposed
to be the aptest of all birds to emit loud and articulate
sounds in imitation of the human voice. The fish called
by the sailors skip-jack, was sometimes an amusement to
them. It is the blennius ocellatus of the naturalists, hav-
Ing eyes uncommonly prominent, and is seen frequently
skipping upon the surface of the water, near the shore.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

No part of the Straits of Sunda abounds with esculent
fish; and the Malays were driven often to feed on the
young or smaller species of the shark, which is too rank
to be eaten by choice. The presence of sharks is sup-
posed to frighten other fish away ; tho no place supplies
a greater quantity of the best kind than the road before
the island of Amsterdam, where were also numerous and
very large sharks. Another cause which often drives
particular fish away, takes place in the Straits of Sunda
the frequency of vessels passing through, both European
and Asiatic, of all sizes. But the adjoining lands on either
side are sufficiently fertile to compensate for such a scar-
city, by their ample produce. Not only the cultivated
soil very fully repays the labourer’s toil, but much of
the spontaneous growth comes forth at once, or easily is
rendered, fit for the nourishment of man. The woods yield
fruits, many of which, tho eatable, are, from the abundance
of others, generally neglected. Some gentlemen of the
Lion, without penetrating far from the shore, observed
a fruit somewhat of the size and form of the pear, which
was never offered for sale, but of which the natives ate.
Itgrew immediately from every part of a tall stem, and not
merely from the trunk and the thickest part of the prin-
cipal branches, like the fruit of the cacao, or chocolate,
or the jack and bread-fruit tree.

It was difficult to get far into the Java forests, from
the quantity of underwood, and the vast number of

VOL, I. Qq

301

Java.
302

Java.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

creeping plants, which form a sort of net, supported by
other trees, and are impassable without some sharp tool

to cut thro them. Some of them were, likewise, of great

strength. One trailed along the ground, in the manner

of some of the convolvulus kind, with a stalk about an

inch in diameter throughout, and of a length exceeding
an hundred feet. The heat, for want of a current of air,
was, sometimes, suffocating; and when near marshy
ground, the mosquitoes or gnats were extremely tor-
menting. In some open spots were found webs of spi-
ders, woven with threads of so strong a texture, as not
easily to be divided without a knife or scissars. They
seemed to render feasible the idea of him, who, in the
southern provinces of Europe, proposed a manufacture
from spiders’ threads; which is so ridiculous to the eyes
of those who have only viewed the flimsy webs such in-
sects spin in England. The eye was often delighted with
the sight of trees in superb blossom, and with the beautiful
plumage of the birds; some of which, however, instead
of charming with their notes, threw out a hissing sound,
that gave the alarm of serpents about to dart their venom.
In these excursions, the gentlemen seldom felt the incon-
venience of rain. The dry season was set in; and the
wind began to render it practicable for the ships to make
some way, tho slowly, towards the Straits of Banka; and
it was determined to attempt it without delay.

Two ships from China arrived, indeed, in the middle
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

of April after a short passage, which implied, that the
monsoon continued still unfavourable for going there,
at least quickly. Those ships brought a confirmation of
the former favourable accounts from China; and fur-
nished a desirable opportunity of writing to Europe.
Very soon afterwards the winds were so far shifted, as
to encourage the Lion to set sail; but the current ran
still to the south-west, often upwards of two miles an
hour, while the breezes were so light, and so much in-
terrupted by calms, that little advance was made; and
the anchors were often lowered, to prevent the ships
from being driven back, till the twenty-sixth of April,
when the current began to change its direction to the
east-south-east, and the next day to the north-east, half
a mile an hour. Of the slight airs that blew, the utmost
advantage was taken by crowding sail, as much as the
Lion could be made to carry. On each side were stud-
ding sails, spreading much beyond the hull; and above
the main-top-gallant-royal sail, which is the fourth in
number one above another from the deck, and diminish-
ing from thence successively in size, was a fifth small
sail of a triangular form, and from its great elevation,
called a sky-scraper, which was not without effect.
While the squadron was at anchor within three miles of
the Brothers, which are two small islands covered with
trees, and surrounded with coral reefs, an opportunity
offered for determining, with accuracy, their latitude;
304

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

sats of Which is five degrees eight minutes south, and their lon-

Banka.

gitude, one hundred and six degrees four minutes east.
About this place several whales were seen, for the first
time since the ships had departed from the island of
Amsterdam. | |

On the twenty-eighth, the hills on Banka island were
perceived above the haze, which hid the lower grounds.
The Clarence and Jackall were ordered to lead ; and soon
gave notice of the water's shoaling to three fathoms,
which forced the Lion to come to anchor for a short
time. The Hindostan got aground to the north-west of
the small island of Lucipara. A large cable, or hawser,
was immediately sent and fixed from her to the Lion, now
under sail, and rowing boats were ordered to assist. Inthe
efforts of the Lion to drag the Hindostan from the shoal,
the cable, tho six inches in circumference, soon snap-
ped ; but not till the Hindostan was already loosened from
the rock: and she got clear soon afterwards.
. The eastern coast of Sumatra was constantly in sight
and the sea, to a certain distance, was rendered muddy
and less salt, by the quantities of fresh water poured from
the large rivers of that island, charged with earth washed
from the adjoining grounds. Detached pieces of the land
were also seen sailing along, first driven by the force of
the river’s stream, and afterwards by the wind or cur-
rent. They were literally floating islands, torn from
the parent shores by the violence of the floods; and the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

305

roots of the trees or shrubs growing on them must have straits of

Banka.

been closely matted and interwoven together, as well as ==

loaded with much compact and heavy earth, to form a
kind of ballast for steadying the drift, and keeping the
stems of the trees in a perpendicular position.

On the thirtieth the squadron came to anchor near to
the southernmost of the three Nanka isles, lying close
to the western shore of the island of Banka. This latter
island is noted throughout Asia for the same cause, its
tin mines, to which England owed its celebrity in Eu-
rope in very ancient times, before its arts and arms had
spread its fame throughout the globe. Banka lies oppo-
site to the river Palambang, in the island of Sumatra,
on which the sovereign of Banka, possessor also of the
territory of Palambang, keeps his constant residence.
He maintains his authority over his own subjects, and
his independence of the neighbouring princes, in great
measure, by the assistance of the Dutch, who have a
settlement and troops at Palambang ; and enjoy the be-
nefit of a contract with the King of Banka for the tin
which his subjects procure from thence; and which,
like the King of Bantam, in regard to pepper, he com-
pels the miners to deliver to him at a low price, and
sells 1t to the Dutch at a small advance, pursuant to his
contract. Those miners, from long practice, have ar-
rived at much perfection in reducing the ore into metal,
employing wood as fuel in their furnaces, and not fossil
3006 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

stits of coal, or coak, which is seldom so free from sulphur as
Banka. | 2: :

=== not to affect the malleability of the metal. It is some-
“times preferred, therefore, to European tin, at the Canton
market ; and the profit upon it to the Dutch company,
is supposed not to be less any year than one hundred

and fifty thousand pounds.
Sir Erasmus Gower observed, that ¢ it was very desire-
« able for ships to stop at the Nanka isles, aswood for fuel
“« is conveniently procured from thence; and the water
«« thought preferable, for keeping, to any before discover-
‘“ ed by the squadron in those seas. It discharges itself
«« from three small rills into a deep reservoir. A cask
was sunk, with holes in it, at a little distance from that
«« cavity, into which the water was conveyed perfectly
«« pure and clear. At high water the distance of rolling
«« did not exceed ten yards. At low water it was an hun-
«« dred ; but the rolling ground was good, and what is
«« material in that sultry climate, the people employed in
«« filling the casks were perfectly shaded near the reser-
« voir, as well as for a part of the rolling distance. The
«« tide rises and falls about eleven feet, and flows once
only in the twenty-four hours. Such at least, was the
« case during the ships’ stay there. The latitude of the
«« road is two degrees twenty-two minutes south, and
¢ the longitude one hundred and five degrees forty-one
« minutes east. This place is perfectly sheltered from
south-west by south to the north-west; and there can

«~

¢

Ld

¢

«

¢

-~
EMBASSY TO GHINA.

‘ be no high sea with any wind, as the land is but at a
‘“ short distance in the open points.” |

On sailing in a boat round the largest of those small
islands, a belt of trees was perceived, of a lighter green
and younger growth, than the wood which it encircled ;
and on landing, this belt was found to have shot up from
land yet moist, and scarcely recovered from the sea. In
several spots throughout the island were discovered frag-
ments of haematites, or blood stone, in a circular form,
and including a hollow, partly lined with sand, which
appeared to have succeeded to a liquid, at one time,
boiling in these natural cauldrons. The sea was very
shallow close to those petty islands, and heaps of stone
mixed with iron ore were, in many places, seen just
rising above the surface, without the least covering of
vegetation, and as if, at no very remote period, vomited
up by the force of subaqueous fire.

The squadron sailed from Nanka isles on the fourth
of May. A shoal is described as leading almost from
them to a rock, with little water over it, called Frederick
Henry, from a ship of that name, which had been
wrecked upon it some years ago. It was material to
ascertain its exact position, that it might not be the occa-
sion of a like misfortune to others; but the Clarence and
Jackall brigs, and six boats were employed in seeking
for it in vain; so that they must have been very un-
lucky in the search, or the general accounts of its situa-

307

Straits of
Banka,
0
J

 

08

- EMBASSY TO CHINA.

ctraits of -tion must have been defective. It is most likely that,

Banka.

tho those several vessels might have missed the rock,
they would have touched the shoals, which are repre-
sented to extend from it to the neighbourhood of the
Nanka isles, of which, however, they perceived no trace.
The squadron continued its route, and crossed the line
on the tenth of May, in longitude one hundred and five
degrees forty-eight minutes east. Sir Erasmus mentions
that ¢¢ the observations at noon discovered that a current
‘“ had set the ships half a degree to the northward; which
‘“ circumstance was to be expected from the accounts
““ given in Mr.Dunn’s Directory.” The same author adds,
indeed, that at this season it sets likewise to the west-
ward; but on making the land of Pulo Lingen, it was
found that it had really set east-north-east twenty-seven
miles in the twenty-four hours. The squadron, after en-
deavouring a little time in vain, to enter into the harbour
here, continued on its course. |

The equinoctial line crosses Pulo Lingen, which is a
considerable island, remarkable for a mountain in its
centre, terminating in a fork like Parnassus; but to
which the unpoetical seamen bestow the name of asses’
ears. Every day presented new islands to the view,
displaying a vast variety in form, size, and colour.
Some isolated, and some collected in clusters. Many
were clothed with verdure. Some had tall trees growing
upon them. Others were mere rocks, the resort of innu-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

merable birds, and whitened with their dung. The wea-
ther was often, in this passage, squally, with thunder,
lightning, and heavy rain. The squadron was frequently
obliged to anchor. The sea was seldom deeper than eight
fathoms. Fahrenheit’s thermometer was from eighty-four
to ninety degrees in the shade; and the heat sometimes
so overcoming, that few, either of the passengers or crews,
enjoyed perfect health. Some of the passengers removed
from one ship to the other, by way of change; and it
was not entirely useless. Several of the seamen were af-
flicted with a dysentery, which, being contagious, was
alarming to the rest, as affording little hope of its being
subdued, until the diseased were removed from the ships
to some convenient shore, where they might enjoy good
air, and be supplied with fresh provisions.

Pulo, or island of, Condore had the advantage of con-
venient anchoring-places in either monsoon ; and ac-
cordingly the squadron stopped there, on the seven-
teenth of May, in a spacious bay on the eastern side of
the island ; and came to anchor at the entrance of its
southern extremity ; as the water shoaled there to five
fathoms and a half, occasioned by a bank which stretches
across two-thirds of the entrance. It was found after-
wards, that beyond the bank there is a safe passage to
the inner part of the bay, the north of which is sheltered
by a small island lying to the eastward. The whole of
the bay is formed by four small islands, which approach

VOL. I+ Rr

509

Pulo
Condore.
A
310

Pulo
Condore.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

so nearly to each other, as to appear, from several points,
to join. They all seem to be the rude fragments of pri-
mitive mountains, separated from the great continent in
the lapse of time. The principal island 1s eleven or
twelve miles in length, and about three in breadth. It
is in the form of a crescent, and consists of a ridge of
peaked hills. Its latitude, as calculated from a meri-
dional observation, 1s eight degrees forty minutes north
from the equator; and its longitude, according to a good
chronometer, is one hundred and five degrees fifty-five
minutes east from Greenwich. Mr. Jackson, who sound-
ed in the bay, happened to land on one of these islets,
where he found a turtle’s nest upon the beach, contain-
ing several young just hatched, with a sort of placenta
adhering to their bellies. Each of these young turtles,
capable of growing to the weight of several hundred
pounds, did not exceed a very few ounces now, and was
but an inch and a half in size.

The English had a settlement on Condore until the
beginning of the present century, when some Malay
soldiers in their pay, out of resentment for some unjus-
tifiable treatment, murdered their superiors, with the ex-
ception of a very few who escaped off the island, where
no Europeans have since resided. At the bottom of the
bay was a village situate close to a fine sandy beach,
with a long range of cocoa-nut trees before it; and it was
defended from the north-east sea by a reef of coral rocks,
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

within which was good anchorage for small vessels, and
an easy landing for boats. A party went on shore with
the precaution, however, of being armed, as large canoes
were espied within the reef, which might have been Ma-
lay pirates. Several of the inhabitants came to the beach,
and with the appearance of much urbanity of manners,
welcomed them on shore; and conducted them to the
dwelling of their chief. It was a neat bamboo cabin,
larger than the rest. The floor was elevated a few feet
above the ground, and strewed with mats, on which were
assembled as many men as the place could hold. It was
apparently on the occasion of some festival, or pleasur-
able meeting. There was in one of the apartments, an
altar decorated with images; and the partitions hung
with figures of monstrous deities; but the countenances
and deportment of the people conveyed no idea of reli-
gious awe, and no person was seen in the posture of
prayer or adoration. A few spears stood against the wall
with their points downwards, together with some match-
locks and a swivel gun. The dress of those people was
composed chiefly of blue cotton, worn loosely about
them ; and their flat faces and little eyes, denoted a
Chinese origin or relation. Several long slips of paper,
hanging from the ceiling, were covered with columns
of Chinese writing. One of the missionaries, who was
of the party, could not, however, in any degree under-
stand their conversation; but when the words were

311

Pulo
Condore.

 
312

Pulo
Condore.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

written, they instantly became intelligible to him; tho
their colloquial language was altogether different from
what is spoken in Ghina, yet the characters were all
Chinese ; and the fact was clearly ascertained on this
occasion, that those characters have an equal advantage
with Arabic numbers, of which the figures convey the
same meaning wherever known; whereas the letters of
other languages denote not things, but elementary sounds,
which, combined variously together, form words, or more
complicated sounds, conveying different ideas in diffe-
rent languages, tho the form of their alphabet be the
same.

The inhabitants of Pulo Condore were, it seems, Co-
chin-Chinese, with their descendants. who fled from
their own country, in consequence of their attachment
to one of its sovereigns, dethroned by several of his
subjects. It was proposed to purchase provisions here;
and the people promised to have the specified quantity
ready, if possible, the next day, when it was intended,
if the weather should be favourable, to land the invalids.
The next morning was fair in the beginning; and a
party of pleasure was made from the Hindostan to a
small island close to Pulo Condore. They were scarcely
arrived upon it when the weather began to lower ; and the
boat set off on its return, in order to reach the ship be-
fore the impending storm should begin. But it overtook

them before they got half way. One of the company
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

was a boy, whose father had been prevented by indis-
position from being of the party, and was now anxi-
ously looking, from the deck of the Hindostan, for the
return of the boat. He perceived it sometimes above
the waves ; and it sometimes disappeared behind them.
The most indifferent spectator, if any could be indiffe-
rent, doubted whether the boat must not be overwhelm-

313

Pulo
Condore.

tem ret
CAIN AS,

ed in such a sea, as now suddenly was raised ; while the

distracted parent was ardently wishing to be in the boat,
as if his presence there could have allayed the tempest.
The cockswain, or helmsman of the boat, guided it,
however, with such address, keeping her bow steadily

to the approaching wave, which otherwise must have

filled and sunk her, that she reached the ship . then,
however, rolling so deeply, that the boat had again a

narrow escape, from being sunk or dashed to pieces

against the greater vessel's sides.

As soon as the weather became fair, messengers were

dispatched on shore, to receive, and pay for, the provi-
sions promised. When they arrived at the village, they
were astonished to find it was abandoned. The houses
were left open ; and none of the effects, except some arms,
that had, on the first visit, been perceived within them ;
or even of the poultry feeding about the doors, were taken
away. In the principal cabin a paper was found, in the
Chinese language, of which the literal translation pur-

ported, as nearly as it could be made, that “ the people
314

Pulo
Condore.
—

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘“ of the island were few in number, and very poor, yet
““ honest, and incapable of doing mischief; but felt
““ much terror at the arrival of such great ships, and
‘“ powerful persons; especially as not being able to
“ satisfy their wants in regard to the quantity of cattle,
““ and other provisions, of which the poor inhabitants
““ of Pulo Condore had scarcely any to supply, and
“« consequently could not give the expected satisfaction.
‘“ They therefore, through dread and apprehension,
““ resolved to fly, to preserve their lives. That they
‘“ supplicate the great people to have pity on them ; that
‘“ they left all they had behind them, and only requested
‘“ that their cabins might not be burnt; and conclude
‘“ by prostrating themselves to the great people a hun-
‘“ dred times.”

The writers of this letter had probably received ill
treatment from other strangers. It was determined that
they should not continue to think ill of all who came to
visit them. On their return they were, perhaps, as much
surprised to find their houses still entire, as their visitors
had been, when they perceived them to be deserted.
Nothing was disturbed; and a small present, likely to
be acceptable to the chief, was left for him in the prin-
cipal dwelling, with a Chinese letter, signifying that
‘“ the ships and people were English, who called merely
‘“ for refreshment, and on fair terms of purchase, with-
‘“ out any ill intention: being a civilized nation, en-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

*“ dowed with principles of humanity, which did not
‘“ allow them to plunder or injure others, tho they should
‘“ happen to be weaker or fewer than themselves.” Itwas
not likely that this letter would be read while the ships
continued in the bay, during which time they who fled
would, no doubt, be fearful to return. It was, beside,
advisable to hasten wherever the invalids might meet on
shore with the comforts which Pulo Condore, it seems,
could not afford. The signal was given for weighing
anchor on the eighteenth of May.

In all large ships the anchor is raised by means of a
capstan, or machine fixed in the keel or bottom of the
ship, and rising above the upper deck, where it has
sockets made in its sides, breast-high, for the occasional
insertion of wooden bars, with which the men turn the
capstan round, coiling about it at the same time a rope,
called a messenger, as connecting the capstan with the
great cable, bent to the anchor then in use. Upon the
present occasion the weather happened to be again
squally, and the ground being tough in which the Hin-
dostan lay, the anchor was difficult to raise, and there-
fore several soldiers of the Embassador’s guard, who
were in the Hindostan, assisted the seamen in pressing
upon the bars. In the midst of their efforts the mes-
senger happened suddenly to snap. The anchor, partly
hauled up, fell back with increased velocity, and
whirled the capstan so rapidly about, that the bars,

315

Pulo
Condore.

——
ETRE
516 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

pao each about six inches square, and sixteen feet long,
Condore. . . . . .
shot, in all directions, violently from their sockets ;
prostrating every man within their reach with irresist-
ible force. One of the bars made its way across the
cuddy, or dining parlour, to the door of the great cabin.
The quarter-deck was strewed with people groaning with
their wounds. Most of the crew had been employed
that day upon the capstan. How many might be killed
or maimed could not instantly be ascertained ; but
such was the impression on the captain’s mind, who
was viewing the operation from the poop, that tho
there then happened to be three medical gentlemen on
board, he cried out that they should first attend to the
fractured limbs, leaving other accidents to be inspected
afterwards. The consternation was indeed greater than
on a day of battle, for which people have generally some
previous preparation, and expect to derive honour or
profit in compensation for the danger. No man, how-
ever, by this disaster, lost his life; many of the seamen
accustomed to the manceuvres on ship-board, and pos-
sibly aware of the accidents which attend them some-
times, were quick enough to avoid being hurt; but few
escaped among the soldiers. Particular care was imme-
diately taken of such as had been struck; and the ten
men whose limbs were broken, or who otherwise were
wounded, gradually recovered. The accident detained,
for some time, the Hindostan at anchor, till the squall

 

 
EMBASSY TO CHINA. 317

increasing, the cable parted from the anchor, which thus pu
: . | Condore.

was lost, and the ship was driven out to sea. The wind —==

blew hard; and it was with difficulty that the brigs

stood out the gale. As soon as it was over, in the even-

ing of the eighteenth of May, the whole squadron steered

away to the northward.

 

VOL. 1. - Ss
Passage to

Turon Bay.

EMBASSY TO GHINA.

CHAPTER VIIL

COCHIN-CHINA.

~ Hap even the south-west monsoon already set in
regularly, and favourably for a passage immediately to
the northern parts of China, it would not have been yet
advisable to take advantage of it, as the debilitated state
of the Lion’s crew, and the contagious disorder that was
spread amongst them, rendered it, previously, necessary
to seek the first safe and convenient place for removing
the sick ashore, wherever fresh provisions could be pro-
cured, and where they could breathe a dry and uncon-
taminated atmosphere. It was no slight trial of the con-
stitutions of men, born in a cold climate, to have been
thrice already, in the course of a few preceding months,
placed under the sun’s vertical rays. Their stay at Ba-
tavia, tho short, had likewise an evil influence upon
their health; and the eastern shore of Sumatra, to the
noxious vapours of which they had occasionally been
exposed in some part of the Straits of Sunda, as well as
in passing through those of Banka, was, perhaps, not
less injurious. Beside the dysentery, which it was difli-
cult to prevent from spreading through a crowded ship,
several of the people were afflicted with diseases of the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

liver. Others, without any previous indication of com-
plaint, were seized with violent spasms, from which it
was difficult to recover them ; and the heat was so op-
pressive, at night as well as in the day, that the men at
work between decks, particularly in the spirit rooms,
were known sometimes to faintaway, tho the ventilators
were constantly kept in use to introduce fresh air. Out
of three hundred and fifty men on board the Lion, one
hundred and twenty were, at times, in the list of pa-
tients.

From the reports of former voyages, relative to the
different places not very distant from Pulo Condore,
Turon bay in Cochin-china promised the most advan-
tages, as to safety for the ships, and shelter and provi-
sions for the men. The squadron steering for that bay,
came, on the evening of its departure from Pulo Con-
dore, within sight of the southern extremity of that part
of the great continent which may, properly, be called
Chinese ; near to which extremity lies Cochin-china.
The first small kingdom, or territory, from the southern-
most point is called Cambodia; the second Tsiompa;
and the third Cochin-china. It is recorded to have
formed, anciently, a part of the Chinese empire; but
on the Mongul invasion of China, from Tartary, in the
thirteenth century, the Chinese governor of the southern
peninsula, containing Tung-quin to the northward, and
Tsiompa and Cambodia to the southward, of Cochin-

319

Passage to

Turon Bay.
320

Passage to

Turon Bay.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

china, took the opportunity of setting up the standard
of independence. He and his posterity resided in Tung-
quin. In process of time, the Tung-quinese governor
of Cochin-china imitated the example that had been

set by the ancestor of his sovereign, and erected, like-

- wise, his government into a kingdom. But both he and

his former master continued to acknowledge, at least, a
nominal vassalage to the Chinese empire ; and, occasion-
ally, paid homage at the court of Pekin. Even this
slight connection with China, rendered it more interest-
ing to the persons belonging to the present Embassy.
The squadron did not come within view of any part
of Cambodia; but in a manuscript account of a voyage to
that country, made in 1778, and which appears to have
been accurately drawn up, it is mentioned, that ‘¢ the
“ point of Cambodia, as well as the whole coast from
‘“ thence to the western branch of the great Cambodia
‘“ river, is covered with underwood, and exceedingly
« low. The sea is so shallow, that, at the distance of
« five or six miles from the shore, the water was seldom
‘“ deeper than four fathoms; and nothing much larger
““ than a boat, could approach within a couple of miles.”
It is not unworthy notice, by what slow gradations the
land, in this southern extremity of Asia, sinks into the
deep, in the same manner as does the southern extre-
mity of the island of Sumatra; itself, perhaps, a detach-

‘ed portion of the same great continent.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Tsiompa, more elevated from the sea than Cambodia,
was seen by the squadron on the nineteenth of May, as
well as Tiger island near it, and, the next day, two

islands called Pulo Cambir de Terre, and Pulo Gecir de |

Mer. Tsiompa presented, to the naked eye, the pro-
spect of a fine and well cultivated country, gently sloping
from the sea, and beautifully diversified with pasture
grounds and fields of corn; but, on examining more at-
tentively, by the help of telescopes, all that pleasing and
luxuriant appearance vanished: leaving only, in its
room, immense tracts of pale and yellow sand, the
smooth surfaces of which were interrupted by ledges
of dark rocks, raising their naked heads to a consider-
able height. The elevated ridges shewed, in various
places, alternate masses of white and black, like the
streaked skins of tigers, shining conspicuously when
the sun’s beams struck upon those shores. The sea,
near to them, was so translucent, that the eye could
easily discern, from the stern gallery, the bottom of the
rudder.

In twelve degrees fifty minutes north latitude, was a
cape called Varella, behind which a mountain rose, re-

markable for having a high rock, like a tower, on its -

summit. To the northward of this rock lay Quin-nong,
or Chin-chin bay, much frequented by the vessels of the
country. According to the manuscript last quoted, ¢ it
«« is an excellent harbour, where vessels may be shel-

321

Passage to

Turon Bay.
322 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Pasageto  “‘ tered from every wind. The entrance to it is very

Turon Bay. :

== ‘‘ narrow; but the want of a sufficient depth of water,
‘“ must oblige ships of large burden to wait till high
‘“ water, to getin. It lies in thirteen degrees fifty-two
“ minutes north latitude.”

On the twenty-second of May, Pulo Canton, other-
wise called Pulo Ratan, came in sight, bearing the sem-
blance of two islands, at some distance, being high at
both extremes and low in the middle. It was the only
island lately seen, on which there was much appearance
of cultivation. A north-west current drove the squadron
nearer, than was intended, to that island, there happen-
ing at the moment to be little wind.

The ships had been, now some time, abreast of the
‘kingdom of Cochin-china. The passage between its
shore, and a vast multitude of small islands and rocks,
called the Paracels, forming a lengthened cluster lying
north and south for near four hundred miles, was not
without some peril; and required no inconsiderable
caution, to guard against the effect of easterly currents,
which drive towards the rocks in calms; as well as, in
the opposite case, against the violent tempests, which, in
these seas, are called typhoons, as they are hurricanes
in the Atlantic: both resembling each other in the ex-
treme violence of the wind, and in the sudden shifting
of its direction. Some previous appearances of the wea-
ther denote the probable approach of those typhoons to
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the attentive navigator; and give him time to prepare
his ship against their fury. These prognostics were ob-
served to take place, in some degree, on the evening of
the twenty-third of May. An uncommon redness of the
sky at sunset, and a hazy atmosphere succeeded to a fine
clear day. The quicksilver fell suddenly in the baro-
meter. After the sun had descended below the horizon,
a thick black cloud arose out of the north-east quarter,
tinged, in parts, with a deep fiery red colour, which
was luminous round the edges. Presently afterwards
the whole horizon was covered over with clouds; and
the storm was expected, momently, to burst. The pre-
caution was, consequently, taken of lowering the ship's
masts and yards, and spreading very little sail, in order
that the wind should have less to act upon; and every
thing was, in the seaman’s phrase, made snug. The
clouds, however, after some time, dispersed. The quick-
silver ascended after a few violent squalls, and the next
morning ushered in fine weather; and shewed, at a dis-
tance, an opening in the land, which was conjectured
to be Turon bay, with an island to the southward of it,
called Cham Callao or Campello.

Many canoes were seen fishing between the ships
and land. The nearest were hailed, in order to get,
from among the fishermen, some one who might pilot
the squadron into the bay. These not caring to ap-
proachstrange vessels, immediately made sail and scudded

323

Passage to

Turon Bay.

 
324

Passage to
Turon Bay.

 

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

away directly before the wind. One of those canoes

~ was, however, at length overtaken by a boat, dispatched

from the Hindostan ; and a fisherman was conveyed on
board. He was an old man, with sunken eyes, his head
thinly covered with a few grey straggling hairs, and a
countenance haggard with age and terror. He left, in
‘his boat, two young men, probably his sons ; for, as he
was extremely apprehensive of intended mischief, when
the messenger from the ship insisted upon taking some
one person from the canoe, he preferred freeing them
from the danger, tho by exposing himself to it. When
he got to the Hindostan, he appeared as if petrified at
the sight of the spacious deck, the great guns, the num-
ber of people, and above all, at the height of the masts,
from which he could scarcely withdraw his eye, as if
fearful lest they should fall upon him. Of the Chinese
on board, none could render themselves intelligible to
this poor man, or understand a word of what he uttered.
Questions were written in the Chinese character before
him: but he made signs to testify that he knew not how
to read or write. The sound of the words Cochin-china
and Turon, were perfectly unknown to him: these
names not having been given by the inhabitants of the
country ; but by early European navigators and geogra-
phers. He repeatedly threw himself upon his knees
and wept, notwithstanding the pains taken to sooth
and satisfy him; and when, in the working and tacking
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

of the ship, her head happened to be turned from the
land, his alarms increased, and he fell into an agony

of grief, imagining there was an intention to quit the

coast, and carry him off for ever. Victuals were offered
to him, of which he ate reluctantly and sparingly ; but
when a few Spanish dollars were put into his hands, he
shewed he had a knowledge of their value, by carefully
wrapping them up in a corner of his tattered garments.
After repeated efforts, he was made, at length, to com-
prehend the object for which he had been brought on
board ; and, being now somewhat tranquillized, he
pointed out the entrance into the bay of Turon, which
is not readily perceived by strangers. The only chart,
known to have been published, of that part of the
coast, was merely a rough sketch, taken by some officers
of the Admiral Pocock Indiaman, that had been acci-
dentally driven there, by stress of weather, many years
ago; but it gives no information or instruction how to
enter into the bay, and was afterwards found to be erro-
neous in many respects. |
In making this part of the coast, from the southward,
the most remarkable object, that attracts attention, is a
group of massy marble rocks, that look like an enormous
castle, appearing to be insulated; and not unlike, tho
much larger than, the rock of Dunbarton castle, rising
perpendicularly from the Clyde, in Scotland. A few

miles to the northward of this Gochin-chinese pile of
VOL. I. Tt

525

Passage to
Turon Bay.

 
26 EMBASSY TO CHINA,

Passage to TOCkS, 15 a bold and elevated promontory, surmounted by

Turon Bay. ;

=====_ two peaks, one much higher than the other. To a stranger,
the entrance into Turon bay would appear to lie between
the mass of rocks first mentioned, and this elevated pro-
montory ; but these objects are joined, in fact, by a low
and narrow isthmus. The entrance to the bay is round
the north-easternmost point of this peninsular promon-
tory, which was now called, by the squadron, Lion point;
not only in compliment to his Majesty’s ship, but on
account of some faint or fancied resemblance, which a
rocky bluff, jutting from the point, bears to a lion cou-
chant, when seen at a little distance.

The Cochin-chinese fisherman, by way of describing
where the Hindestan ought to anchor, bent his left arm
to represent the mountains which overlooked the bay,
and dropped down the fore-finger of his right hand, to
mark the relative proper spot for anchoring. At this time
tornadoes or sudden squalls of wind from different points,
and accompanied by lightning and thunder, drove the
ships again to sea; nor were they able, safely, to come
to an anchor, within the bay, till the twenty-sixth of
May. The old Cochin-chinese was now dismissed, with
a compensation for his fright, as well as for his services.
When he was carried to the shore, he jumped from the
boat almost with the alertness of youth; and, hastening
away, came never, afterwards, near the ships.

Sir Erasmus Gower ¢“ moored the Lion in seven
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

«« fathoms water, the north-west point of the bay bear-
““ ing north-east by north, an island in the mouth of the

““ bay, north, the watering place on the peninsula, east

““ by north ; Gampello isle, which is seen over the 1sth-
““ mus, south-east by east, a river on which the town of
«« Turon is situated, south-south-east half east. The pen-
«« insula bore some resemblance to Gibraltar, which name
«“ was henceforward given to it by the squadron. The
«“ channel into the bay is round the north-east end of
« this new Gibraltar, having a large lump of an island to
““ the north. All the coast is safe to approach, shoaling
« the water gradually from twenty to seven fathoms.”
The first consideration, after having come to ancher,
was to seek for a place to put the sick and invalids
ashore. A spot was quickly found under Gibraltar hill,
near the Lion’s station, where the ground was perfectly
dry, the neighbourhood free from swamps, and a clear
stream of water running behind the tents which were
pitched for the men. Pains were taken, after their de-
parture, to purify the ship from all traces of contagion ;
and a message was about to be sent, at the same time, to
the town of Turon, which lay upon a river falling into
the bay, to announce the occasion of the squadron’s
stopping in it, and to request a supply of fresh provi-
sions at reasonable and customary rates. But the Lion
was scarcely at anchor, before an officer from shore
came on board, for the purpose of learning every parti-

327

Cochin-
china.
328

Cochin-
china.

TET

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

cular relative to the squadron, the appearance of which,
it seems, had spread alarm. The vessels that usually re-
sorted there, were either junks from different parts of
China, or trading vessels from Macao of an European
make, but small, and without any warlike appearance.
Of the former there were none actually in the bay; and
of the latter one brig only. Ships like the Lion and
Hindostan were seldom seen there. Beside these, and
the Jackall and Clarence which attended them, a fifth
vessel soon followed into Turon bay. She was under
Genoese colours ; but, chiefly, manned by Englishmen.
She had found the squadron in the straits of Sunda, and
kept company with it, occasionally, afterwards.

The whole appeared particularly formidable to the
people on shore, from a cause which the commander of
the Macao brig explained. He mentioned that Turon,
with a considerable part of the kingdom of Cochin-

- china, was then subject to a young prince, nephew of

an usurper, whose antagonist, the descendant of the for-
mer sovereigns of the country, was still in possession of
some of the southern districts of the kingdom, and was
in daily hope of such succours, from Europe, as might
enable him to recover all the possessions of his ances-
tors. His family had, occasionally, shewn kindness to
European missionaries, and tolerated the exercise of the

‘Christian religion among their subjects. The principal

of those missionaries, who had been dignified with the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

title of Bishop by his holiness the Pope, was afterwards
sent by his Cochin-chinese majesty as his embassador to
the court of France, where an uncommon degree of in-
terest was taken in the young prince of Cochin-china,
“whom the bishop had conducted to Europe with him.
Succour was promised for the re-establishment of his
house ; and in case of success, benefit would, no doubt,
have accrued to the commerce of the French. Measures
were in preparation for sending out effectual aid, when
the extraordinary events at home put an end to the ex-
pedition, and deprived the generous monarch, who had
ordered it, of the power of assisting either others or him-

self. Some individuals, however, from France did join

the legitimate king of Cochin-china, and gave hopes of
further assistance. These hopes were often repeated by
way of encouragement to his partisans; and his enemies;
in possession of Turon bay, began to be apprehensive
lest the squadron now at anchor in it, should, in fact;
be come with hostile intentions against them.

A communication was soon opened between the of-

ficer who came on board and the Chinese interpreters,

in the same manner as had been effected at Pulo Con-
dore, by means of the written characters of the Chinese
language. The neutral and pacific disposition of the
squadron was announced, its general object declared,
and a request made for the supply of its immediate wants.
For the first two or three days, however, very little was

329

Cochin-
china.
330 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

cochin- obtained. Few boats approached the ships with provi-

— oe slonsidor sale, tho it be usual to do so, in great numbers,
in most harbours. The market on shore was very scan-
tily supplied ; and extravagant prices demanded for
every article. It was obvious that the governing ma-
gistrate of the place, who, it seems, had instantly dis-
patched a messenger to the capital, with an account of
the arrival of the squadron, and for instructions how
to act, had, in the mean time, checked the sale of all
provisions.

A person of some rank soon arrived at Turon, who
delivered very handsome compliments from his master
to the Embassador. He came in a large decked galley,
of a light and sharp construction, formed for quick sail-
ing. The rowers, who were very numerous, rowed in
an erect posture, and pushed the oars from them, making
short and frequent strokes. A state cabin was erected,
on the middle of the deck, painted in lively colours.
Each end of the galley was decorated with streamers of
different colours and figures. The state cabin was, on
the outside, surrounded with spears, and various ensigns
of authority. The principal officer, who came in her,
was dressed in loose robes of silk, had the polished man-
ners of cultivated society, and was attended by a Chinese
interpreter. His galley was followed by nine boats,
calculated for carrying burdens, and full of rice and
other provisions, animal and vegetable, as presents, for
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

331

the use of the passengers and crews. From that mo- cochin.

ment the markets were plentifully supplied, and the
prices reasonable. The governor of the district came,
also, on board to pay his respects, invited the Embassa-
dor and his suite ashore, and proposed to keep an open
table for them constantly. Every mark of attention was
shewn henceforward ; and every effort made to culti-
vate the best understanding with his Excellency and
the squadron.

Overtures were made for the purchase of arms and
ammunition ; and it was easy to perceive that any assist-
ance given to the cause of the prince, then reigning at
Turon, as well as at the capital and northern parts of the
kingdom, would have been willingly purchased on any
terms. His situation, indeed, was very far from being se-
cure. Beside the province of Donai, or southern part of
Cochin-china, which had reverted to the ancient family
of its sovereigns, Quin-nong, or the middle province of
the kingdom, was in the hands of the late usurper of the
whole. He had entrusted to his younger brother the care
of his conquests to the northward ; but the latter availed
himself of his command, first to invade the neighbouring
kingdom of Tung-quin, which he effected with complete
success, notwithstanding the assistance given to the latter
by the Chinese, and then declared himself sovereign both
of Tung-quin and Cochin-china : intending to wrest, for
his own use, from his elder brother, whatever the latter

china.

 
352

Cochin-
china.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

still possessed of that kingdom, as well as whatever part
had been recovered by the lawful sovereign. This new
usurper was an able warrior, and had formed vast pro-
jects of conquest, even of some Chinese provinces. He
was one of those politicians to whom all means are equally
eligible that can contribute to their successes. He died
in the midst of them in September, 1792. Of his sons
he left the eldest, who was illegitimate, in the govern-
ment of Tung-quin. The youngest, who was his legi-
timate offspring by a Tung-quinese princess, was at
Turon at the time of his father’s death. He instantly
assumed the reins of government, as lawful successor to

his father, while his elder, but illegitimate brother, re-

tained possession of Tung-quin, and claimed a right to
the whole of his father’s conquests.

~The state of rebellion or civil warfare in Cochin-
china had begun upwards of twenty years before, in the
course of which so very many of the combatants were
slain, the country was so exhausted, and the surviving
parties so balanced, that, at this time, no considerable
enterprize was undertaken by any of them; tho each
was busy in preparing new plans for the support of
himself and the overthrow of his enemies. In the mean
time the people began, in some degree, to breathe ; but
had the kingdom even been more settled, the Embas-
sador did not think it would have been proper to enter
into any sort of negotiation, or even to present the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

credential letters, with which he had been entrusted
for that kingdom, before he had delivered, in the first
instance, those he had in charge for the Emperor of
China. His Excellency, therefore, determined to con-
fine himself to messages of compliment and respect, and
to a return of presents for those he had so seasonably
received for the use of the squadron. An uninterrupted
communication was continued to be maintained with
the people of Turon; but not without some marks of
mistrust, and consequent watchfulness, on both sides.
The bay of Turon was found to deserve, more pro-
perly, the name of harbour. Its entrance is neither so
narrow, nor so capable of being defended, as the port of
Rio de Janeiro, described in a former chapter; nor,
within, is it so deep or spacious ; but it is, nevertheless,
among the largest, as well as safest, harbours known.
It is deeply scolloped or indented, so as to afford perfect
shelter, in some or other of its inlets, from whatever
point of the compass the most violent wind may blow.
The bottom is mud, and the anchorage safe throughout.
In common weather, ships may so lie as to have the ad-
vantage of the sea wind, coming in at the harbours
mouth, and over the narrow isthmus already mentioned,
from the hours of three or four in the morning, to the
same hours in the afternoon. The land wind succeeds
very quickly, and continues almost the rest of the
twenty-four hours. The ships have all the benefit o

VOL, 1. Uu

33

Cochin-
china.

9

2

 
Q
2

34

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Cochin- its coolness as it descends from the mountains, without

china.

passing over sands: nor is it contaminated by blowing
across marshes. A small island, within the harbour, is
nearly surrounded with such deep water as to admit of
vessels of all kinds lying close to it, in order to heave
down and be refitted. The sea is smooth throughout
the harbour. Between the mountains, overhanging it,
are vallies in which rice is cultivated, and buffaloes are
reared, with much success.

The harbour abounds with fish. In some of the boats

the fisherman, his wife, and children, continue with

him, sheltered under a high convex roof instead of a flat
deck. Round the young children’s necks are tied broad
pieces of gourd or calibash, to keep their bodies afloat
and their heads from sinking, in case of their falling
overboard. As often as the fishermen come on shore,
they implore their deities for the safety of their families,
and their success in fishing, by erecting small altars to
them among the branches of large trees, or other elevated
places, on which they make offerings of rice, sugar, and
other victuals, and burn short pieces of odorous and con-
secrated wood. |

At the southern extremity of the harbour is the mouth
of the river which leads to Turon town. On the point,
which separates the river from that harbour, is a watch-
tower, consisting only of four very high pillars of wood,
over which a slight roof is laid, and a floor is fixed upon
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

cross posts into the pillars towards their upper ends. To
this floor the watchman ascends by a long ladder, and
there he can readily see, through the harbour’s mouth,
any vessels to the northward, and those which are to the
southward over the isthmus. Near the watch-tower 1s
an office where the boats and small vessels, going into
the river, are stopped to be examined. The river is
about two hundred yards in width, and its current into
the bay 1s sufficiently strong to work itself a channel in
the bank of sand, accumulated at its entrance into the
harbour. On each side of this channel the sand is raised
so high as, at low water, to be uncovered by the sea;
and on this sand was seen, for the first time throughout
the present voyage, that celebrated bird, vulgarly called
the pelican of the wilderness, whose gullet, bill, and
wings, seem to be much beyond the proportionate size
of its body, which is, however, equal to that of the
largest turkey. It frequents only waters where fish
abound; of .which its presence argues plenty. The
depth of the water in the river was upwards of two
fathoms. One Chinese junk, and several Cochin-chi-
nese large boats were at anchor in the river, and others
passing through it. The land on its western bank, on
which the town of Turon lay, about a mile above its
mouth, sloped down to the water’s edge ; and the naked
infants, of two years old and upwards, came, from the
houses built among the shrubbery growing upon its

355

Cochin-
chlna.

Sims
336

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Cochin- borders, and played and swam like ducklings in the

china.

 

water.

Turon, to which, as well as to the river and harbour,
the natives give the name of Han-san, was little better
than a village ; but is said to have been, during the peace
and prosperity of the country, amore considerable place.
The houses, mostly low and chiefly built of bamboo,
and covered with rushes, or the straw of rice, were,
except about the market-place, interspersed with trees.
Many of the best buildings were in the centre of gardens
planted with the areca-nut tree, and various other pleasing
or useful shrubs. Behind the town were grovesof oranges,
limes, plantains, and areca-nut trees, surrounded in some
places by houses, and in others only with remains
of buildings. The opposite side of the river was divid-
ed into fields, inclosed by fences, and cultivated with
tobacco, rice, and sugar-canes. The market in the town
was plentifully supplied with all the vegetable produce
of tropical climates, as well as with large quantities of
poultry, particularly ducks: and, among other fowls,
the black-bellied darter, a kind of bird so called from its
supposed propensity to dart its sharp and long beak at
any shining objects near it, particularly into any eye
turned towards it. On this account those animals are
brought to the Turon market with their eyelids sewn
together, to deprive them of the opportunity of discern-
ing the eyes of those who come to purchase them.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

There were no shambles or places containing the sepa-
rated parts of animalskilled forsale. Atan entertainment,

however, given by the chief of the place to a party from
the ships, many of the dishes or rather bowls, upon the
table, were filled with pork and beef, cut into small square
morsels, and dressed with a variety of savoury sauces.
Other bowls contained stewed fish, fowls, and ducks; and
many had fruits and sweetmeats. The number of bowls,
piled in three rows, one above the other, exceeded cer-
tainly an hundred. Before each person were placed
boiled rice to serve instead of bread ; and two porcupine
quills, by way of a knife and fork. The spoons were
made of porcelain, somewhat in the form of small sho-
vels. After dinner an ardent spirit, made from rice, was
served in little cups around. Wine does not seem to he
in use, or known; tho vines are said to grow spontane-
ously in the mountains. Had the art of stopping the
fermentation of vegetable juices, before they passed from
the vinous state, been understood by them, it is probable
that it would be, in most instances, preferred to distilled
liquor, to the use of which this people seem, now, to be
much addicted. More of this Cochin-chinese spirit, not
ill-resembling what is called, by the Irish, whiskey, was
drank by the host than by his guests; tho the former,
by way of setting a good example, filled his cup to the
brim, in a true European style of joviality, and, after
drinking, turned up his cup, to shew he had emptied it

337

Cochin-
china.
ee
338

Cochin-
china.

. EMBASSY TO CHINA.

to the bottom. He afterwards accompanied the gentle-
men in a short walk, and conducted them to an occa-
sional theatre, where a comedy had been ordered by
him, upon the occasion, of which the mirth was excited,
chiefly, as well as could be inferred from the gestures of
the actors, by the peevishness of a passionate old man,
and the humours of a clown, who appeared to have no
small degree of merit in his way. The place was sur-
rounded with crowds of people, and many of them perch-
ed upon the boughs of adjoining trees, from whence they
might see, at an open part of the building, the spectators
within doors, about whom they were, in this instance,
more curious than about the actors upon the stage.

As the gentlemen were returning from this entertain-
ment, they were requested, by signs, to stop while an
aged lady, with some difficulty, walked from her house
towards them. She had heard that Europeans were
passing by; and, not having before seen any, seemed
anxious to take the opportunity, which might not offer
again in her time, of indulging herself in this respect.
She approached them with looks of eager curiosity, but
with much. gentleness of manners, and a countenance

implying a willingness to apologize for the freedom she

took, to stop and gaze at them. She observed, with great
attention, their figures, “dress, and countenances, and
appeared perfectly to enjoy a spectacle so new to her.
She, at length, retired signifying her thanks to the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

gentlemen for their complaisance, and with all the marks

of satisfaction, at being gratified in one of the most ar-
dent wishes remaining in her mind.

Those gentlemen's own attention was soon afterwards
arrested, by a singular instance of agility, in some Cochin-
chinese young men. Seven or eight of them, standing
in a circle, were engaged in a game of shittlecock.
They had in their hands no battledores. They did not
employ the hand or arm any way, in striking it. But,
after taking a short race, and springing from the floor,
they met the descending shittlecock with the sole of the
foot, and drove it up again, with force, high into the air.

It was, thus, kept up a considerable time: the players

seldom missing their stroke, or failing to give it the direc-
tion they intended. The shittlecock was made of a piece
of dried skin rolled round, and bound with strings. Into
this skin were inserted three long feathers spreading out
at top, but so near to each other, where they were stuck
into the skin, as to pass through the holes, little more
than a quarter of an inch square, which are always made
in the centre of Cochin-chinese copper coins. Two or
three of these served as a weight at the bottom of the
shittlecock, and their sound gave notice to the players,
when it was approaching to them. This curious mode of
exercise is represented in Plate No. 14 of the folio volume.

It is not at sportive games alone, that these ingenious
and active people apply their feet as others do their hands.

339

Cochin-
china.
340 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Cochin The lower, and, at least, some of other ranks, generally,
go barefooted ; and their toes have, thus, freer motion,
and more contractile power than those which are always
inclosed in shoes; and serve, jointly with the foot, as
auxiliaries to the hand and fingers in the exercise of many
trades, particularly that of boat-builders. The boats, com-
monly in use among them, consist of five planks only,
joined together without ribs or timbers of any kind.
Those planks are bent to the proper shape, by being ex-
posed some time to a flame of fire. They are brought to a
line at each end, and the edges are joined together with
wooden pins, and stitched with bamboo split into flexile
threads; and the seams afterwards smeared with a paste
made with quick-lime, from sea shells,and water. Others
are made of wicker work, smeared all over and rendered
water-tight by the same composition as is used for the
former. The owners affect to paint eyes upon the heads
of all those boats, as if to denote the vigilance requi-
site in the conduct of them. They are remarkable for
standing the sudden shock of violent waves, as well as
for being stiff upon the water, and sailing expeditiously.
The boat belonging to the chief of the district, as is
seen in the opposite engraving, was built upon the same
plan, but on a larger scale, had a carved and gilt head.
bearing some resemblance to that of a tiger ; and a stern
ornamented with sculpture, and painted with a variety
of designs in lively colours. In these boats the princi-

 

 
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

pal sitters are generally at the stem, instead of being
near the stern, as is the custom in Europe.

The Cochin-chinese seemed sufficiently dexterous and
‘attentive, tho with scarcely any principles of science, to
make, on any substances which promised to be of use or
comfort to them in private life, such trials and experi-
ments, as were likely to produce beneficial results. In the
culture of their lands, and in the few manufactures ex-
ercised amongst them, they were not behind nations

 

341

Cochin-
china.
342 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Cochin- where the sciences are known ; and, in some instances,
they have fallen upon processes not used elsewhere, tho
more convenient or effectual than those which are. In
purifying sugar, after the gross syrup had been drained
from it, and it was become already granulated and solid,
they sometimes placed it in layers of about one inch in
thickness and ten in diameter, under layers of equal di-
mensions of the herbaceous trunk of the plantain tree;
the watery juices exsuding from which, and filtrating

~ through the sugar, carried down with them all the dross
which had been boiled up with it, leaving the pure
sugar crystallized and white. It was then very light,
and almost as porous as a honey-comb. When dissolved,
it left no sediment at bottom. This method appears,
certainly, to be an improvement on the usual mode,
elsewhere, which consists in pouring the sugar, as soon
as granulated, into vessels of the form of inverted cones,
and placing a layer of wet earth upon the upper surface
of the sugar. That upper surface is, thus, indeed, much
purified ; but never so perfectly as in the Cochin-chi-
nese method. The grain of the sugar is more broken,
and the inverted point of the loaf always retains more
dross than does its base, to which the filtrating liquid
had been more immediately applied. It is not very
~ probable, that the management of the sugar cane and its
juices, by the Cochin-chinese, is much more tedious,
difficult, or expensive than what is pursued elsewhere ;

 

 
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

because the sugar made by them, and brought to the
open market-places in the neighbourhood of the manu-
facture, was sold at prices considerably inferior to what
are demanded in any other part of the world, where
that commodity is produced. | |

"Tho these people possessed not, sclergiclly, the
art of reducing the metallic ore into the metal, they had
attained the practice, for example, of making very good
iron, as well as of manufacturing it afterwards, into
match-locks, spears, and other weapons. Their earthen
ware was very neat. Their dexterity appeared in every
operation they undertook. It was applied, indeed,
sometimes to improper purposes. Many of them made
little i ceremony: of appropriating, privately, to them-
selves, whatever suited them in the possession of an-
other; nor were they much disconcerted by detection.

They were liberal in their turn; and in instances,
too, where few others are disposed to generosity. Wives
and daughters were said to be transferred on easy terms,
and with little scruple. ' All affairs of gallantry seemed,
indeed, to be treated by them very lightly. These ob-

servations must, however, be considered as applicable,

principally, to the more numerous, but lower. classes’ of

the people; and among them, to those who were so si-
tuated as to have most intercourse with strangers; while
the upper orders were more comprehensive in their in-

justice, and more exclusive in their enjoyments: exer-
VOL. I. Xx

343

Cochin-
china.

mene
CI
544

- EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Cochin-  CISING their power over the weaker sex, in confining

china.

 

their many wives, and over the people in a variety of
oppressions, which neither the inferior was emboldened
to resist, by depending upon his right; nor the supe-
rior deterred from continuing, by a consciousness of
doing wrong; as if no principle of religion, or maxim
of morality, had been inculcated among them in support
of justice, or for putting any limit to authority. Sub-
ordination was strongly marked by prostrations and
other exterior acts of abject humiliation to those in
power.

Tho a great inequality of conditions tends, in some
instances, to the cultivation of such of the fine arts, as
happen to be esteemed, because it provides means for
their encouragement, there did not appear among the
Cochin-chinese the least traces of painting or of sculp-
ture; but they had made some proficiency in music.
The Embassador was induced to accept of an entertain-
ment, given on shore on the fourth of June, being his
Britannic Majesty's birthday. On this occasion a grand
dinner was provided. After which a play was per-
formed, in a style superior to any that had been hitherto
exhibited. The piece appeared to be a kind of historical
opera, in which were the recitative, the air, and the
chorus, as regular as upon the Italian stage. Some of
the female performers, were by no means despicable
singers. They all observed time accurately, not only
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

with their voices, but every joint of their hands and
feet was obedient to the regular movement of the instru-
ments. Both their string and wind instruments were
very rude, but formed on the same principles, and with
a view to produce the same effect, as those of Europe.
Such, however, is the force of habit and national attach-
ment, that the performance of the musicians, in the ser-
vice of the Embassador, which was very grateful to the
European ear, was not much relished by the Gochin-
chinese.

The building, in which the Embassador was received,
appeared to have been erected on the occasion. The
inside was hung with printed cotton of British manu-
facture; and the soldiers, attending upon the governor of
the district, who gave the entertainment, had outside vests
of dark red cloth, which likewise, probably, came from
England. The Portugueze of Macao, who chiefly carry
on whatever trade is still subsisting in the ports of Co-
chin-china, buy up the refuse goods of the Canton mar-
ket, which they dispose of here to great advantage, tho
they sometimes are made to suffer many. impositions
from the governing people of the country.

The Cochin-chinese soldiery were generally armed,
beside sabres, with pikes of vast length, ornamented
with tassels of hair dyed red, which colour no subject, ex-
cept in the service, or by the order, of the sovereign, was

allowed to use in dress or equipage. The Embassador’s.

345

Cochin-
china.

 
346.

Cochin-
china.
EES TIERCE

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

guard which’ attended his Excellericy on shore, beside
firing a salute in honour of the day, went through seve-
ral military evolutions, to the admiration, not only of
the surrounding multitude, but of the native troops.
Notwithstanding the decrease of population through-
out the country, in the course of a. long civil war, the
number of men in arms was said to be still considerable.
At Hué foo, the capital of the kingdom, about forty
miles to the northward of Turon, thirty thousand men
were reported to be kept in garrison, and regularly ex-
ercised with muskets and match-locks every day. Their
generals relied much also upon the use of elephants
trained for war. With this view figures of soldiers are
placed in ranks before the war-elephants, who are
taught to attack them with great fury, seizing them with
their trunks, tossing some of them in the air, and tramp-
ling others’ under their feet. The elephant, however,
like most other animals who subsist entirely on vegetable
food, 1s maturally gentle, except where pains are taken
to train them to acts of violence, or when provoked by
great personal injury. The keeper of this huge animal is
generally a boy, who rides upon his neck and governs
him with ease ; and the nice touch and contractile power
of the lips of his flexile proboscis, render it, in some in-
stances, equal to the human fingers in adroitness. :
Cochin-china is among the few places where ele-
phants serve for food. They were considered as a per-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

fect dainty there. When the king, or any of his vice-
roys in the provinces has one of these animals slaugh-
tered for his table, pieces of it are distributed about to
persons of rank, as gratifying marks of favour. Buffalo
is preferred to other beef. Milk is not used as food ; nor
is milking any animal customary in the country. Yet
the people have been driven to dreadful shifts for any
kind of sustenance, during the famine which the de-
stroying armies of contending tyrants had frequently
occasioned ; and human flesh is said to have been, some-
~ times, sold in the open markets of the capital.

The neighbouring Tung-quinese had taken, at one
time, the advantage of the rebellion in Cochin-china; and
invaded the northern provinces, in which the capital is
situated. During the short period of their possession,
they plundered whatever valuable they could find; and,
in particular, as much of the precious metals as they could
discover. A great proportion of what then escaped has
been sent since to China, in return for the necessaries of
life supplied by the junks from thence: the wretched
inhabitants being often compelled to that resource, as
their cultivated lands were laid waste, and their manu-
factories destroyed. Before these calamitous events, gold
was particularly plentiful in the country. Gold dust
was found in the rivers, and their mines abounded in
the richest ore, so pure as to require only the simple
action of fire to extract it. Much of it was used in deco-

547

Cochin-
china.
48

Cochin-
china.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

rations of dress and furniture. The hilts and scabbards
of their swords were frequently ornamented with plates
of beaten gold. Payments were made in it to foreign

merchants, in ingots, each weighing about four ounces.

Mines of silver were formerly less known, or so little

‘worked, that it was imported from abroad and exchanged

for gold, upon terms of considerable advantage to the

importers. © More mines of silver have, however, lately

been discovered; ora less expensive method of refining
it has been practised. It was become the principal
medium of exchange for merchandize from abroad, and
was paid in ingots of very pure metal, each weighing
about twelve ounces. Before the troubles in Cochin-
china, great quantities of gold were brought from the
hills in dust, and bartered by their rude inhabitants for
rice, cotton, cloth, and iron. It was from them also
that the sweet-scented aguila or eagle wood, so valued in
the East, was brought, as well as quantities of pepper,
wax, honey, and ivory ; but the communication between
those hills and the low lands had, in a great measure,
been cut off for several years past. The latter chiefly
produce rice, areca nut, betel leaf, tobacco, cinnamon,
silk, cotton, and above all, sugar, which may be con-
sidered as the principal staple commodity of the country.

The original inhabitants of Cochin-china had retired
to the chain of mountains bordering upon it to the west-
ward, and those which separate it from Cambodia, when
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the ancestors of the present possessors of the plains
invaded the country from China, in like manner as
the ancient Britons, when attacked from Italy and Ger-
many, betook themselves to the mountains of Wales.
The mountaineers of Cochin-china are represented as a
rude and savage people, differing by their coarse fea-
tures and black complexions, as much as in their man-
ners, from the well-looking and less dark complexioned
lowlanders, who were considered as a courteous, affable,
and inoffensive race, before the subversion of the ancient
government, and mutual violence and treachery had
loosened every principle of society, and roused the
passions of avarice and ambition, which the convulsions
of the country gave too many opportunities of indulging.
‘The ancient simplicity of manners still, however, sub-
sisted among the cultivators of the soil. The counte-
nances of the peasants were, for the most part, lively
and intelligent. The women, who were more numerous
than the men, were actively employed in works of hus-
bandry. Their cabins were clean and sufficiently com-
modious for a people whom the climate enables to spend,
out of doors, most of the time not allotted to repose.
Ofrice, which is the most general object of cultivation,
beside that species which requires to be sown in lands
that are afterwards inundated, there is another known
in Cochin-china, called sometimes mountain rice, which

thrives in dry light soils mostly on the sides of hills, and

349

Cochin-
china.

 

 
350

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

cochin- opened by the spade; nor does it require more moisture

china.

than the usual rains and dews supply, neither of which
is frequent at the season of its vegetation. Rice is’ of still
more importance ‘to this people; here, than bread isto
Europeans, as the former require, with that grain, a very
trifling relish of spices, oil; ‘or animal food. Their prin:

cipal indulgence is in'spirituous liquors; tobacco, areca

nut, and betel leaf. Of the two last articles; mixed with
a little: paste ‘of lime and water, they are extravagantly
fond. These ingredients ‘are obtained at easy rates,
being produced upon the spot. ‘Persons of both sexes,
and of all ranks, chew ‘the areca nut with betel, and
smoke tobacco. A silken bag, suspended from the
girdle, containing those "ingredients in separate divis
sions, constitutes a necessary part of dress. Every man,
who can ‘afford it, is attended by a servant,” whose
office is to follow his master with his apparatus for
smoking. ‘The ‘gentleman carries only a small case, or
pursé; for his areca nut and betel, generally slung over
his shoulder, with ‘an ornamental riband hanging down
to his: waist. - Portraits of these are delineated in Plate
No. 16 of the folio volume. * Azo

The custom of smoking, to which the men are more
addicted than’ the ‘women, affords a sort of occupation
that prevents the irksomeness of total inaction, without
requiring exertion or ‘occasioning fatigue. It is, there:
fore, often preferred to more useful, but laborious em-
- EMBASSY TO CHINA.

ployment ; and, except occasional efforts, made under
particular circumstances, indolence was prevalent among
the men ; while the women were assiduously employed
in domestic occupations, or in the labours of agriculture.
In towns they served frequently as agents or brokers to
merchants from foreign countries, living with them at
the same time as their concubines; and, in both respects,
they were remarkable for their fidelity. Concubinage
was supposed to be no dishonour; and, in this instance,
there seemed to be less difference in the morals of the
two sexes than in Europe. The exterior difference
between the sexes appeared also less glaring ; for the
dresses of both were nearly of the same form. They
consisted of loose robes, with small collars round the
neck, and folding over the breast, with large long sleeves,
covering the hands. People of rank, especially the
ladies, wore several of these gowns, one over the other,
The undermost reached the ground ; the succeeding
ones were each shorter than that immediately under it.
They were often of different colours, the display of
which made a gaudy appearance as the wearer walked
along. Linen was not known amongst them. They had,
next the skin, vests and trowsers of slight silk or cotton.
Turbans were frequently worn by the men ; and hats,
sometimes, by the women, but never caps. The most
richly dressed of either sex used no shoes.

In the dress of the Europeans nothing attracted
VOL. I. Yy

551

Cochin-
china,

 
352

Cochin-
china.
tains.
MAAS NC.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

more the attention or admiration of the Cochin-chinese
than manufactured ornaments of polished steel. Steel
hilted swords were vastly coveted.by the military men.
This class held the first rank in the country. Next
came the judges; but the abuse of power in the former
was not greater than in the latter ; and among the several
hardships, suffered by all classes, were the bad practices

in the establishments intended for the administration

of justice. Causes were tried, indeed, with much for-
mality, and with an apparent desire to find out the truth,
in order to a fair decision ; yet, in fact, a favourable de-
cree was generally purchased by a bribe. Presents were
accepted from both parties ; but the richest was most
likely to be successful.

Among objects of natural curiosity accident led to the
observation of some swarms of uncommon insects busily
employed upon small branches of a shrub, then neither in
fruit or flower, but in its general habit bearing somewhat
the appearance of a privet. These insects, each not much
exceeding the size of the domestic fly, were of a curious
structure, having pectinated appendages rising in a curve,
bending towards the head, not unlike the form of the tail
feathers ofthe common fowl, but in the opposite direction.
Every part of the insect was, in colour, of a perfect white,
or at least completely covered with a white powder. The
particular stem, frequented by those insects, was entire-
ly whitened by a substance or powder of that colour,
EMBASSY TO CHINA. 353

strewed upon it by them. The annexed engraving will  cochin-
convey some idea of what is here very imperfectly de- —
scribed. The substance or powder was supposed to form
the white wax of the East. This substance is asserted, on
the spot, to have the property, by a particular manipu-
lation, of giving, in certain proportions, with vegetable
oil, such solidity to the composition as to render the

 

 
354

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

cochin- Whole equally capable of being molded into candles. The

china.

fact is ascertained, indeed, in some degree, by the simple

- experiment of dissolving one part of this wax in three

parts of olive oil made hot. The whole, when cold,
will coagulate into a mass, approaching to the firmness
of bees’ wax.

Considering Cochin-china in a general view, it must
be allowed to be excellently well adapted to commerce.
Its vicinity to Ghina, Tung-quin, Japan, Cambodia,
Siam, the Philippines, Borneo, Sumatra, and Malacca,
renders the intercourse with all these countries short and
easy. The commodious harbours with which the coast
1s intersected, and particularly that of Turon, afford a
safe retreat for ships of any burden, during the most

tempestuous seasons of the year.

As a good plan of so valuable a harbour as Turon
might be of use to future navigators, and would be a
desirable addition to nautical knowledge, Mr. Barrow
undertook to draw it agreeably to geometrical admeasure-

ment; and, for that purpose, ¢ selected a level sandy

“ beach on the south-west side of the harbour, as the
‘“ most advantageous place on which a measured base
‘“ could be had, and from the extremities of which the
‘“ greatest number of points might be seen. He carefully
“ measured, with a chain, a base of one nautical mile,
‘“ and with a small theodolite took a set of angles from
‘“ each extremity, by which the general outline of the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

355

‘“ harbour was completed as far as the projecting point of  cochin-

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the peninsula, called, in the chart No. 3, the second
point. ‘The rest of the coast, forming the entrance
of the harbour, was laid down by intersections on
board the Jackall, as she was working out of the
harbour, on her passage to the island of Callao. He
estimated the width of the isthmus, that is connect-
ed with the peninsula, by walking across it from
the harbour to the open sea. The soundings in the
entrance of the harbour were obtained in the Jackall,
and those in the channel between the banks, and in

two brigs, in their passage towards the town of Han-
san. The situation and direction of the banks were
determined by taking their bearings from various parts
of the bay, and intersecting those afterwards from the
Hindostan. The latitude of this ship’s anchorage, by
the mean of several meridional altitudes of the sun,
was found to be sixteen degrees seven minutes north,
and longitude, by the time keeper, one hundred and
eight degrees twelve minutes east from Greenwich.
The rise and fall of the tides appeared to be very un-
equal. The greatest rise observed, during the squa-
dron’s stay, was about six feet; but it was said to rise,
sometimes, as high as eleven or twelve feet. The time
of high water, at full and change, was about five or
six o'clock in the afternoon.

china.
356

Cochin-
“china.

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“ The following are references to the chart of the har-
bour of Turon, contained in the folio volume.

‘“ A. An irregular mountainous peninsula, inacces-
sible on every part of the coast, except that adjacent
to the harbour, and at the two small sandy bays in the
entrance (marked N and O), at the bottom of each of
which are a few fishermen’s huts. To this peninsula
was given the name of New Gibraltar, on account of
the similar local natural advantages which it possesses,
and which make it capable of being rendered, like the
other, almost impregnable. This peninsula is called
by the natives Tien-cha.

«« B. A level isthmus, united to the above peninsula,

from three-fourths of a mile to a mile in width, con-
taining several small villages and patches of ground,
under cultivation, chiefly of rice, tobacco, pulse, and
sugar-canes. The small elevation of this isthmus above

the level of the sea, and the loose sandy materials of
‘which it is composed, would at any time render a deep

cut across it practicable and easy, should the insulation

of the present peninsula ever be thought advisable.

. “ G. The principal town in the vicinity of the har-

ce

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bour, at which the market is held. The land around
this town appears to be kept in a state of tolerably good
cultivation. The name given to it by the natives, as
well as to the harbour, is Hmen,

«“« D. A small island covered with trees and thick
EMBASSY TO CHINA. : 357

« brushwood. The depth of water being three fathoms Cochin-
«« within a ship’s length of the southern extremity of ==
““ the 1sland, a convenient place might be prepared at a
‘“ small expence, for heaving down and repairing ships
““ close to it. The northern point of this island is con-
‘“ nected with the peninsula by a reef of rocks, that are
‘“ uncovered at low water. By making these rocks the
*¢ foundation of a pier or causeway, an excellent dock
‘“ might be constructed between the island and the pen-
“ insula. A place like this would be well calculated for
‘¢ repositories of naval stores, magazines, or warehouses.
~“ E.E. Rills of clear water, from which shipping
might be supplied with great convenience.

‘“ F. A small plain, on which tents were erected for
‘“ the reception of the sick. Houses built upon this plain
¢“ would command a direct and very commodious com-
‘“ munication with the shipping in the harbour. By a
‘“ small work on the first point, which is considerably
‘¢ elevated, the town might be defended against any force,
‘“ that would probably ever be directed against it.

~ ““G. A valley, in which there is a small village, a
““ rivulet of clear water, and about forty or fifty acres of
““ land under tillage ; a great part of which was in a state
of preparation to be planted with rice.
‘““ H.K. Villages, at which several manufactures are
carried on, particularly those of boat-building, and of
¢¢ preparing sugar and tobacco.

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358. EMBASSY TO CHINA.

. Cochin ““ L. A large village on the banks of a considerable
—— 4 river, across the mouth of which there is a shallow
‘“ bar, but within it three fathoms water. The valley,
‘ through which this river meanders, is beautiful and
‘“ extensive, and seems to be fertile and populous.
“ M. A cove with plenty of water for ships of any
‘“ burthen, good anchoring ground and well sheltered,
‘« particularly from the north-east monsoon. At the head
‘“ of this cove, there 1s a plain of considerable extent,
““ containing two villages that are divided by a small
‘“ running stream. About forty or hfty acres are em-
‘“ ployed in the culture of rice. A number of fine buf-
‘“ faloes were grazing on the marsh.

““ P. A group of curious marble rocks, that extend
‘“ across the isthmus, one end being washed by the sea,
‘“ and the other overhanging the river. These rocks
rising immediately from a perfect plain, like an im-
mense pile of building in ruins, appear, on making
the peninsula from the southward, to be situated in
the sea.”

In the neighbourhood of Turon, and along the ad-
joining coast, the winds have been found variable all
the year, as, indeed, they are close in with most lands,
the periodical winds losing their influence near the
shore. The captain of the Pocock Indiaman, whom ne-
cessity had compelled to go into Turon in the month

of November, during the north-east monsoon, was very

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- EMBASSY TO CHINA.

apprehensive of engaging with that coast, which he
considered as a lee-shore at that season of the year ; but
experience shewed him that there was little to be feared.

The country is supposed, in general, to be healthy, the
violent heat of the summer months being tempered by
regular breezes from the sea. September, October, and
November are the season of rains. The low lands were
then frequently and suddenly overflowed by immense
torrents of water, which descended from the mountains.
The inundations took place, generally, once a fortnight,
and lasted for two or three days at a time. These inun-

359

Cochin-
china.
EE

dations happening about the full and change of the

moon, seemed to indicate the influence of that satellite
in the determination of their periods. In December,
January, and February, there were also frequent rains,
brought by cold northerly winds, which distinguished
this country, by having a winter, from most others so
near to the equator.

The inundations had the same effect here, as, in Egypt,
the periodical overflowings of the Nile, and rendered this
country one of the most fruitful of the globe. In many
parts the land produced three crops of grain in the year.
Its most valuable produce, beside the precious metals in
its bosom, consisted in pepper, cinnamon, sugar, silk,
and cotton, which were readily given by the natives, in
exchange, for a variety of European manufactures ; and,
accordingly, several of the principal commercial nations
560

Cochin-
china.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

of Europe, trading to the East, had considerable inter-
course with the Cochin-chinese, and their neighbours
the Tung-quinese. Nothing, indeed, is now to be seen
in any of their harbours except their own galleys, a few
Chinese junks, and now and then a small Portugueze
vessel from Macao. The ravages of civil war have, no
doubt, contributed to drain the sources of commerce ;

and the want of security and protection to foreigners,

inclined to trade there, must impede its revival.

Not only large sums have been demanded for permis-
sion to trade, as well as arbitrary duties levied on goods
carried there for sale, and a variety of presents exacted
by all persons in power or office, with whom the fo-
reign merchants had to deal ; but sometimes the vessel
and whole cargo have been attempted to be cut off. OF
this a strong instance is recorded, among the manuscripts
of the East India Gompany, to have happened in the
year 1778.

‘« Two English vessels were sent from Bengal, with a
‘“ view to open a trade in the peninsula of Cochin-china,
«upon certain fixed conditions. For this purpose a
““ gentleman was deputed by the government of Bengal,
““ with powers to treat with the rulers of the country.
“« He was well received where he first stopped in the
“ southern provinces, from whence he was invited to
‘“ Hue-foo, the capital, then in the hands of the Tung-

*¢ quinese, where assurances were given that the cargoes
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

““ on board might be disposed of to advantage. One
‘“ only of the vessels could get over the bar, which lies
‘“ at the mouth of the river leading to it, while the
‘“ largest remained in Turon harbour. Some of the
‘“ goods were landed at Hué-foo, where the agent for
‘“ their sale, as well as the Bengal envoy, resided for
‘“ some time. Presents were made, as usual, to the prin-
‘“ cipal officers of government, and part of the cargo
‘“ was sold, when the envoy discovered that the viceroy,
~ ““ allured by the hope of obtaining a valuable booty, had
‘“ issued orders for seizing the persons of all the Eng-
‘“ lish ashore, and for confiscating the vessel and cargo.
‘“ The English at Hué-foo just had time to get on board,
‘“ when troops surrounded the dwelling they had left.
*“ Their safety required, that they should sail ‘away as
““ fast as possible; but it was extremely dangerous to
‘“ attempt crossing the bar, at the inclement season
“ which was then, in November, set in. The vessel
‘“ had been nearly lost in crossing it, on her arrival, in
*“ the finest weather, tho she had then been assisted by
““ the boats, and people of the country. The north-east
‘ monsoon, now at its height, blew directly up the
“river. A message was sent to the vessel, lying in
““ Turon bay, to come to the mouth of the river, or to
‘“ send boats and people to assist her consort, in attempt-
‘“ ing to get over the bar, in any moment, when the

“ weather should prove moderate, or the wind shift to
VOL. I. Zz

361

Cochin-
china.
362

Cochin-
china.

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a less unfavourable point. In the mean time they had
accounts, that the chests and packages, they had been
obliged to leave behind them at Hue-foo, were broken
open by Tung-quinese soldiers, and the contents
carried off. Soon afterwards they perceived armed
gallies full of men, dropping down with the tide, and

making no other use of their oars, than to preserve a

proper direction for boarding the English vessel.
Had they been suffered to come along side, she must
have inevitably been taken. The gallies were, there-
fore, hailed, and desired to keep clear of the ship.
They continued, however, to approach, without re-
turning any answer; and were stopped only in con-
sequence of guns being fired at them from the vessel.
Batteries now began to be erected, by the people
ashore, in order to prevent her escape.

‘“ In the mean time an European linguist came with
a message from the viceroy, to assure the English of
the continuance of his friendship; that the ill treat-
ment they had suffered was without his consent, or
participation, and that he earnestly desired an accom-
modation. After delivering this message, the linguist
taking the English envoy aside, said to him, that tho
such was the fair speech that had been ordered to be
made to him ; yet it was incumbent upon the English
to be constantly on their guard, as the Tung-quinese

‘¢ were manning more gallies, in order to take the vessel.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘“ A civil answer was returned to the viceroy, and a de-
‘“ mand made of the property, that had been seized at
““ Hué-foo. Promises were soon sent that it should be
‘““ restored, and an interview requested. The person,
‘““ however, by whom these promises were conveyed,
““ privately mentioned the insincerity of such profes-
‘“ sions ; and that, in fact, hostile preparations were car-
“ rying on against the vessel. |

““ On the twenty-fourth of November, the weather
‘“ appearing moderate, the captain of the ship moved
‘“ her nearer to the river's mouth, about a mile above
‘“ the spot where a prodigious high surge broke across
““ the bar. On each bank of the river, thereabouts, were
““ crowds of people busied in bringing down guns, fas-
‘“ cines, and stores, and in erecting batteries,” which,
‘“ notwithstanding every effort to interrupt them, were
““ soon completed, and began to play upon the vessel,
* tho with little effect. They were inexperienced in the
*“ management of guns, and took, as yet, bad aim. They
““ ceased firing during the obscurity of the night; but
“in the course of it the vessel was exposed to another
‘“ danger. A heavy swell drove her from her anchors,
“and several violent shocks announced that she was
“ striking upon the ground; and it was to be dreaded
“that she soon would come to pieces. Fortunately,
““ however, it happened to be low water: when the
““ tide rose, she got off without damage. But the boat on

363

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china.

 
364

Cochin-
china.

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which the people’s ultimate hopes were placed for
preserving their lives, in case of an accident to the
vessel, broke loose and was seen no more.

““ In the morning an English boat was perceived by
them, outside the bar, attempting to get in, and was
known to be that which was expected to come to their
assistance from Turon. Their spirits were elated by
this incident; but their joy was of short duration;
for the boat, after rowing to and fro, at the back of
the surge, in search of the proper channel, unfortu-
nately, made choice of a part where it broke with the
greatest violence; and no sooner had she entered it,

‘““ than she disappeared. The deepest consternation,

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immediately, became visible in the countenances of
all aboard. The Tung-quinese, to express their joy
at the accident, fired with redoubled fury from their
batteries at the ship. Regardless of the danger, every
eye on board, appeared fixed with a melancholy
steadfastness on the place where the boat had overset.
In about an hour the heads of two persons were dis-
covered, swimming towards the vessel, and they soon
reached her. The rest of the boat’s crew were drown-
ed or killed by the Tung-quinese, who had the
cruelty to fire at them, when in the water, with small
arms.

“In a short time the vessel suffered considerably
from the batteries on shore. The night brought some
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘¢ respite from this danger ; but, by affording time to the
‘“ people to reflect on their situation, served rather to
‘“ increase than to alleviate their anxiety. The vessel
‘“ had already received considerable damage in her hull
‘““ and rigging. She was riding by the only anchor
‘“ which remained, that could be depended on; and
‘ expedients for deliverance were sought in vain. There
‘“ was little hope of safety in proposing an accommoda-
‘“ tion; and yet nothing else remained to be done. A
‘“ white flag was accordingly hoisted; and signs made
‘“ to some of the Tung-quinese to come on board. They

‘ on their part, immediately began to pull down the war

‘« flag displayed on their batteries. They were perceived
““ to assemble in consultation at the grand battery; and
‘“ a boat attempted to come on board, but was obliged
““ to put back by the high sea. The Tung-quinese,
‘“ waiting probably for orders from the viceroy, suffered
““ the vessel to remain unmolested the whole day. In
““ the evening the wind so far changed as to render it
““ possible to get out. The anchor was accordingly
‘“ weighed as soon as it was dark, and the sails set in
‘ profound silence. There was, indeed, but a slender
‘“ chance of finding the way, in the obscurity of the
‘“ night over a dangerous bar, through a channel not
‘“ more than sixty yards wide. At one moment the ves-
‘“ sel’s head was close upon the breakers of the sea, when
‘ luckily her sails were taken aback, and she avoided

Cochin
china.

65

 
366 EMBASSY TO CHINA,

cochin-  “¢ them. A little before midnight, she crossed the

Z_ «bar. The Tung-quinese, then perceiving that the
“ vessel was giving them the slip, kept up a brisk
“« fire till long after she had got out of the reach of their
““ guns.”

Similar instances have, probably, occurred to other
nations, which determined them to abandon the trade
of Tung-quin and Cochin-china altogether. The French,
it is said, aware of the insecurity of trading to those
countries without some independent settlement, had,
formerly, in contemplation to purchase the small island

of Callao, lying a few miles to the southward of Turon.

 

 

Such a circumstance rendered that island, in some
measure, interesting ; and Captain Parish and Mr. Bar-
row went in the Jackall tender to visit it, but under
injunction to avoid giving any kind of offence or alarm
to its inhabitants. cup

““ On approaching the north-east coast of Callao,”
according to Mr. Barrow’s account, ¢¢ and standing well
““ in towards it, they stretched along the eastern shore
““ of the island, towards the southward, near enough to
“« perceive that, on that side, from the northern to the
‘“ southern extremity, there was no landing place what-
““ ever: the shore consisting of a continued range of
‘““ immense rocks, rising, in some places, perpendicu-
““ larly out of the sea, and, in others, overhanging it in
““ such a manner as to render it completely inaccessible.
EMBASSY TO CHINA. 367

« About half a mile from the southernmost point of cochin.
‘“ Callao was a small rocky islet, round which they So
~ “sailed, not caring to venture the brig through the
“« passage formed by it and Callao; tho, from the ap-
«« pearance of the two shores, and the depth of water
abreast of the opening, it scarcely could be doubted
but that the largest ships might have passed through

 

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without any risk.

‘“ Having hauled round the rocky islet, they began
““to open out the south-west coast of Callao, which
“« soon discovered itself to be of a very different na-
““ ture from that of the opposite side, being covered
«« with verdure, and indented with a number of small
““ sandy bays, in all of which there was the appear-
‘« ance of safe and convenient landing. They stood
““ in towards the largest of those bays. Near the shore
““ were distinguishable a number of houses ; and, not far
“ from them, several boats, some afloat, others hauled
‘ upon the beach ; and beyond the village, lands in cul-
tivation. The water shoaling, very suddenly, from
nine to five fathoms, it was thought advisable to let go
the anchor. The two projecting points, forming the
‘“ bay, bore north seven degrees west, and north thirty-
‘“ six degrees east; the latter about a mile and a half
« distant. It was afterwards found that the vessel had
‘ been brought to just upon the point of a bank, that
‘“ stretched out about a mile from the extreme points

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

“ of a small island to the westward of Callao, and bear-
“ ing from the anchorage north twenty-six degrees west,
‘“ and north sixty-six degrees west.

‘“ The brig had been scarcely brought to anchor, and
““ the sails clewed up, before they observed eight very
‘“ large two-masted gallies, and a few smaller ones stand-
‘“ ing out of the bay, apparently with an intention of
‘“ coming towards the Jackall; but they had no sooner
‘¢ cleared the points that form the bay, than they hauled
‘“ their wind, and stood along shore towards the northern
‘“ extremity of the island ; and having reached a passage
‘“ between it and a small islet lying to the westward of
““ it, they furled their sails, and, with their oars, brought
‘“ all the gallies into a regular line ahead, occupying

~ ““ the whole passage. The brig hoisted English colours,

‘““ on the idea that some of the people might recognize
““ them, as similar to those flying in the harbour of
““ Turon.

““. The gallies, however, still kept their position ;
‘“ while the Jackall’s boat landed at the bottom of the
‘“ bay, on a fine sandy beach, upon the margin of which
‘ stoed a small, but very pleasant village, built chiefly
‘“ of bamboo. None of the natives had appeared upon

¢ the beach, nor were seen about the houses; and on

‘“ entering into them, it was discovered that the village
‘“ was deserted. The doors of the houses were all left
‘“ open ; and several domesticanimals were feeding before
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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

them. After some time a person was perceived lurk-
ing among the neighbouring trees, who, finding he
was observed, came forward with reluctance, and evi-
dent marks of fear. While he was yet at some dis-
tance, he fell upon his knees, and touched the ground
with his forehead several times. On approaching to
him it was noticed that the first joint of every one of
his fingers and toes were wanting, and as if twisted
off by violence; it was possible that he might have
thus been treated by way of punishment for some
crime; and that he was considered as the fittest person
to be exposed to the supposed danger of watching the
movements of the strangers coming ashore. In a little
time some others, hidden in the thickets, finding that
no mischief was suffered by the first, ventured out
None of them could understand the Chinese interpre-
ter; and not being able to read or write, there was no
conversing with them by the medium of the Chinese
characters. Recourse was had to hieroglyphics ; and
rude figures were drawn of the articles which were
proposed to be purchased ; and this method succeeded
tolerably well. Poultry and fruits were brought for
sale, for which high prices were given, purposely
to conciliate the good will of those islanders. There
were very few of them present on it: the principal
inhabitants having embarked, it seemed, in their gal-

lies on the brig’s approach to the island. They who

VOL, I. 3s A

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china.

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remained grew soon familiar; and one old man press-
ingly invited the strangers to his house, situated upon
an eminence, at a little distance. On arriving there, he
introduced them to his wife, an old woman, who, after
recovering from her astonishment at the sight of figures
so different from those she had ever been accustomed

to behold, laid, in a neat manner, before them some

fruits, sugar, cakes, and water. On departing from the
house, this decent and hospitable couple made signs
to testify their desire of seeing them again.

“ To avoid exciting suspicion or alarm among the
people, which any considerable apparatus of instru-
ments, or operations on shore might have created,
Captain Parish and Mr. Barrow took with them, only,
a small pocket sextant and compass. With these, at
the southernmost point of the bay, they observed the
necessary angles and bearings without being noticed ;
and rowed on board, taking notes of the soundings all
the way. A second set of angles was observed on
board the Jackall at anchor, from which and the for-
mer, the chart of Callao and the adjacent islets was
constructed. And in order to ascertain the distance of
the brig from the shore, as accurately as circumstances
would allow, the angle of the altitude of her mast
above the surface of the water was taken from the
shore, from whence her distance was deduced trigo-
nometrically. By estimating the motion of the boat
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

““ on its return to the vessel, and noting the time em-
« ployed in it, the distance resulting from thence was
““ found to correspond, very nearly, with that which
““ was obtained by calculation from the angular altitude
« of the vessel's mast. The height of the southern peak
«“ of Callao was found by observing the angles of its
«« altitude with a sextant, at eight different stations, as-
‘« sumed at as many equal intervals of time, on their way
““ to the vessel. They also had an opportunity of deter-
«« mining the latitude of the island, by a meridional al-
« titude of the sun; from which, and the bearing of the
«« peak from Turon harbour, taken with an azimuth
‘« compass, the relative positions of those two places
¢« were marked down in the chart.

«« Callao, as it is called by its inhabitants, but more
generally known to Europeans under the name of Gam-
«« pello, lies opposite to, and about eight miles to the east-
«« ward of, the mouth of a considerable river on the coast
¢« of Cochin-china, on the banks of which is situate the
““ town of Fai-foo, a place of some note, not far from the
‘« harbour of Turon. The bearing of the highest peak of
¢« Callao from this harbour is about south-east, distance
““ thirty miles. The extreme points of the island lie in
«« latitude fifteen degrees fifty-three minutes, and fifteen
‘« degrees fifty-seven minutes north ; the greatest length
¢¢ is from north-west to south-east, and is somewhat about
‘¢ five miles, and the mean breadth two miles. The only

¢

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Cochin-
china.

 
372 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Cochin- ** inhabited part is on the south-west coast, on a slip of
‘“ ground rising gently to the east, and contained between
the bottom of a semilunar bay, and the mountains on
each side of it. Those mountains, at a distance, appear
as if they formed two distinct islands. The southern
‘“ mountain is the highest, and is about fifteen hundred
«« feet. The lower grounds contain about two hundred
acres. This small, but enchanting spot is beautifully
““ diversified with neat houses, temples, clumps of trees,
‘“ small hillocks swelling from the plain, and richly de-
corated with shrubbery, and trees of various kinds ;
among which the elegant areca, rising like a Corin-
thian column, is eminently conspicuous. A rill of
‘“ clear water, oozing from the mountains, is contrived
““ to be carried along the upper ridges of the vale, from
‘“ whence it is occasionally conveyed through sluices,
‘“ for the purpose of watering the rice grounds, and ap-
“« peared, tho then in the dry season, fully sufficient for
‘“ every purpose for which it could be wanted.
““ The houses, in general, were clean and decent.
“ A few were built with stone, and covered with tiles.
‘“ One, probably the mansion of the chief person of the
““ island, was inclosed by a stone wall, and the approach
“ to it was through a gateway between two stone pillars.
‘“ The house was divided into a number of apartments,
‘ of which the arrangement did not seem to want either
‘¢ taste or convenience. This building stood at the head

 

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EMBASSY TO CHINA. 375

«« of the principal village, which consisted of about cochin-
“ thirty habitations built of wood, chiefly I
«« Behind the village, and on the side of the hill, was a
“« cave, accessible only by one way, through an irregular
‘“ range of rocks. Within the cave, but near its mouth,
““ was a small temple, commanding a view of the whole
‘ vale. Several other temples were dispersed over the

 

“« plain, all of which were open in front, with a colon-
‘* nade before them of round wooden pillars, painted red
¢«¢ and varnished. The number of houses on the island
«« scarcely exceeded sixty. Behind every house, not im-
‘« mediately in the principal village, were inclosures of
““ sugar canes, tobacco, and other vegetables, growing in
““ great luxuriance. The mountains were covered with
‘ verdure, and seemed well calculated for rearing goats,
“ of which the island produced a few.

“ Beside the principal bay, there were several sandy
““ inlets, with small patches of level ground behind
‘“ them. Boats might easily land in any of these inlets,
““ but a communication between them, by land, appeared
““ to be exceedingly difficult, if not entirely prevented,
““ by the steep and rugged ridges which separated them
““ from each other. On this account very slight works,
‘“ and an establishment of a few men, only, would be
““ requisite for the defence of the island, a great part of
““ its coast having been, as was already noticed, impreg-

‘ nably fortified by nature. The depth of water in the

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374 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Cochin- bay and road was sufficient for ships of any burden,
‘“ and there was perfect shelter from every wind except
““ the south-west, to which quarter it was directly open.
““« The short distance, however, from the continent in
““ that direction would always prevent the sea from rising
““ high, tho it might not be sufliciently near to break the
‘¢ force of the wind.”

The want of shelter in the south-west monsoon would
soon induce the French, were they once in possession
of Callao, to seek for a further settlement near it, upon
the main land of Cochin-china. The coast abounds with
navigable rivers. In settled times several hundred junks,
from forty to one hundred and fifty tons burden, from
the different ports of China, frequented those of Cochin-
china, to procure cargoes, chiefly, of areca-nut and sugar,
the last article alone equalling annually about forty thou-
sand tons. They paid for these cargoes in a few manu-
factures of China; but, for the greatest part, in silver.
The distance is very short between the two countries,
and the voyage made in four or five days with a favour-
able monsoon ; and, as these junks leave their own ports
almost in ballast, 1t 1s probable that they would, readily,
bring teas, or other articles in demand among Europeans,
for a trifling freight to Cochin-China. It being gene-
rally understood that no duties are levied in China on
articles of trade exported by its own subjects in their
own vessels, possibly the French might have had in con-

 
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

375

templation to be able, by the means of a settlement on the  cochin-

coast of Cochin-china, to procure Chinese articles at a
cheaper rate than could be obtained by any foreigners
trading immediately to China, where the duties and
exactions, amounting, upon an average, to about ten
thousand pounds upon every considerable ship and
cargo, must materially affect the price of the exported
articles, and enable those exempted from them to be sold
at a lower rate in Europe. While, indeed, the jealousy
of foreigners continues so great in China as to confine
their trade to Canton, the method of carrying it on by
their own vessels, sailing between their own ports and
Cochin-china, might be desirable, especially if the Eu-
ropean manufactures could by those means, as is likely,
be imported, not into Canton only, but into other Chi-
nese ports. Until such jealousy shall be done away by
a more familiar communication with the government of
China, which must be followed by the vent of an im-
mense quantity of foreign manufactures throughout the
whole empire, the mode of obtaining their commodities,
and supplying them with those of Europe, through their
own people, might certainly be more advantageous and
secure, as well as more agreeable to them, than by the
present method of foreigners going immediately amongst
them.

If, from these considerations, a solid settlement in
Cochin-china were to be productive of advantage to any

china.

 
3

 

76

Cochin-
china.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

European nation, it must peculiarly be so to Great Bri-
tain ; because, beside the opening it would make for the
sale of its own manufactures, among the people of the
country, the British possessions in Hindostan would be
sure of a very considerable demand from thence for their
productions.

After about a fortnight’s ly in Turon harbour, pre-
parations were made by the squadron for their departure.
The monsoon was now become steady and favourable
for a quick passage to the coast of China. The invalids
from the Lion, who had been ashore, were returned
aboard in better health, and the ship was freed from all
traces of any contagious distemper. One loss, however,
was sustained about this time, which was sincerely re-
gretted by the passengers and crew. Mr. Tothill, purser
of the Lion, was obliged, while she lay at Batavia, to go
frequently ashore, for the purpose of procuring provi-
sions and other necessaries for the ship’s use. On these
occasions he underwent much fatigue, and was often ex-
posed to the sun’s raging heat. He had afterwards some
gouty complaints, and considered his late indisposition
as a continuance of them. The symptoms did not ap-
pear alarming ; nor was he confined to his bed ; and he
thought himself, latterly, as in a mercantile phrase he ex-
pressed it, a thousand per cent. better than he had been.
The same night he died. Mr. Tothill had formerly been

round the world with Sir Erasmus Gower, and chose to
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

accompany his friend upon the present occasion; tho
he had quitted a sea-faring life several years before.
About this period a circumstance, of another kind,
created some temporary uneasiness. Mr. Jackson, master
of the Lion, who was, during the whole voyage, assidu-
ous in observing the soundings, and making other nautical
remarks, especially in places little navigated before by
Europeans, had gone upon a similar pursuit in one of the
ship’s boats, along the eastern shore of the peninsula of
Turon. He did not return at night as was expected;
nor were any tidings had of him the nextday. His friends
were naturally alarmed about him. He might have pe-
rished in consequence of a sudden squall having overset
the boat. The various accounts of the treacheries and
cruelties, which had been committed against strangers
on this coast, recurred to the mind upon this occasion ;
and it was possible also that a discussion might take
place upon the subject with the acting government of
the country, which might be tedious and unpleasant.
A rumour soon reached the ship that Mr. Jackson, his
boat, and crew, had been seized, and detained at a dis-
tance from Turon; and soon afterwards it was acknow-
ledged by a Cochin-chinese mandarine, who came on
board, that some foreigners were detected and stopped
in the attempt of penetrating, in the night time, up one
of the rivers, in an unwarrantable, or, at least, in a sus-

picious manner. On their being claimed by the Em-
YOL. 1. 3B ’

377

Cochin-
china.
OTTTANC SETI
378

Cochin-
china.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

bassador, a promise was made that they, together with

=== their boat and effects, should be restored. They returned

in a few days on board ; after having undergone consi-
derable fatigue, and much ill treatment from the inferior
officers, into whose hands they fell. In other respects,
the accident was attended with the advantage of furnish-
ing an opportunity of knowing the actual state of that
part of the country through which Mr. Jackson was
conducted.

He mentioned that, ¢¢ desirous to survey the eastern
‘¢ coast of the peninsula of Turon, he proceeded along
‘“ shore till he got to the isthmus point, when the sea
‘“ breeze set in. He then made for the entrance of Fai-
‘“ foo river, opposite Callao island, and knowing that it
‘“ was a branch of a larger river, of which another branch,
‘“ at a little distance, fell into the harbour of Turon, he
‘“ determined to return by that way to the ship; that
‘“ after going through several windings of the river, for
‘““ upwards of twenty miles, he arrived, about eight
““ o'clock at night, before a large town, built along the
“ bank of the river, where he stopped about a couple of
“ hours, at the end of which time two men, each having
““ a lighted bamboo in his hand, made signs to him to go
‘“ ashore. They called out, also, to two armed gallies,
““ which were near the boat, to take hold of it. Upon
“this he went on shore, and was received by a guard

~ *“ of fourteen men, who conducted him to a house in the
EMBASSY TO CHINA. 379

“town, where he staid during the remainder of the cochin-
“night. After some noisy debate the next morning, —
““ among the persons who seemed to direct the others,
‘“ one of them went off in a great hurry; while Mr. Jack-
‘“ son and the boat’s crew were moved to a fort a little
‘“ way beyond the town, where they were confined,
“ handcuffed, and treated with great inhumanity, till the
“ arrival of a person of authority above the rest, who
““ appeared very much displeased at such behaviour.
““ These prisoners were afterwards marched for two
“ days, several miles through the country, exposed to the
“ scoffs and menaces of their conductors and the people ;
““ until at length they reached their boat, and embarked
¢“ for Turon harbour.

““ The country, Mr. Jackson added, to the south-west
«of Turon, and as far as he could observe, in that di-
‘“ rection, was level and fertile. The soil was chiefly
““ clay, mixed with sand of a reddish colour. He met
*“ with many rivers and canals, full of boats of various
sizes. There were junks of about one hundred and
““ thirty tons. They lay before a town of about three-
¢¢ fourths of a mile in length, built of red bricks. All the
large buildings were much damaged in many places, as
ifby violence. The town was about twelve miles from
the sea, and twenty-four from that of Turon or Han-
san. He passed through two other considerable towns.
“In one of them was a plentiful market, from day-

 

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380 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Cochin-  *‘ light until noon, abounding chiefly in rice of diffe-
—— 4 TENT qualities, yams, sweet potatoes, greens of various
‘“ kinds, pumpkins, melons, sugar in round white cakes,

¢¢ sugar-canes, poultry, and hogs. In the market were

‘¢ stalls made of bamboo, with shops for the sale of cloths

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and other goods. The country appeared very popu-
‘“ lous, and the people, both male and female, very in-
‘« dustrious. | |
“« Their fields were separated, not by fences, but by

‘“ narrow paths running between them. To the grounds,

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which could not be watered by the rivers, water was
conveyed in jars, carried by the cultivators of the
““ soil. The land was ploughed by two buffaloes yoked
““ together; the plough seemed to be made of wood
‘“ alone. The fields planted with sugar-cane, were more
‘“ extensive than any others. The sugar sold in the
markets for about three-halfpence a pound. Every
other article equally cheap. Cotton was very plenti-
“ful. The children were employed in picking it out
‘“ of the pod, and the women in spinning and weaving
it into a coarse cloth, mostly dyed with Indigo. The
horses were small, but spirited and active. They had
also asses and mules, and innumerable goats. The
people appeared to be very much oppressed by per-
sons in office, and by the soldiers, whose behaviour
was that of brutal savages. Their arms were chiefly
‘“ long pikes, spears, and cutlasses, exactly resembling

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

«« those in English ships of war. He saw no cannon;
“ but many wall-pieces with wide bell muzzles. The
«« roads were little wider than pathways are in Europe.
¢“ Nor did he see any carriages or machines, which
‘« would require broad roads to move upon.”

The whole of the Cochin-chinese dominions, since
Tung-quin has yielded to the arms of the late usurper,
fills the space between the twelfth degree of northern
latitude, and the tropic of Cancer; but their breadth do
not amount to two degrees of longitude. They are
bounded to the westward by a long chain of mountains,
which border, on the other side, on the kingdoms of Laos,
Siam, and Cambodia. The sea washes Cochin-china and
Tung-quin to the east; the former has Tsiompa to the
southward, and the latter the Chinese province of Yun-
nan to the northward of it. The whole comprehends
about ninety-five thousand square miles.

Soon after Mr. Jackson's return to the Lion, the speedy
departure of the squadron was announced to the officers
of the Cochin-chinese government, which was followed
by a complimentary message from the reigning prince,
accompanied by a second present of provisions, parti-
cularly of rice, in such a quantity beyond what the
squadron could consume, thata part of it was sent to the
Company's factory at Macao. The Embassador, after
proper compliments and thanks, signified his inten-

381

Cochin-
china.

 

|
582 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Cochin- tion of returning to Cochin-china, if practicable for

china.

===== him, after he had been at the court of Pekin. The

squadron sailed from Turon on the sixteenth of June
1793.

 
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

CHAPTER IX.

PASSAGE TO THE LADRONE ISLANDS, NEAR MACAO; AND
THENCE TO CHU-SAN. TRANSACTIONS AND OBSERVATIONS
THERE.

From Cochin-china to the Chinese coast, the pas-
sage, when the south-west monsoon has regularly set in,
1s generally short and easy. The expectation of coming
soon in sight of a country, which was the object of so
long a voyage, rendered the passengers still more im-
patient to get to the place of their destination than they
had been when much farther removed from it.

The port of Tien-sing, where the Embassador meant
to land, was, however, yet at a considerable distance.
It was intended previously to touch at one of the La-
drone islands, opposite to Macao, for the purpose of
sending letters to Europe by any conveyance from that
settlement, or Canton ; but more particularly to receive
any intelligence which might be interesting to the Em-

bassy, as well as to get pilots, if any were to be found in

that neighbourhood, for the Yellow sea, of which the
navigation was entirely unknown to Europeans. This
was not the case with regard to the track between Co-
chin-china and Macao; and therefore no pilots had been

383

Passage to
the Ladrone
Islands.

steerer
584 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Passage to Tequired from thence ; however, few accurate accounts

“fans. had hitherto been published of the navigation, either

— through that track, or from thence to the Chu-san
islands.

The mountain of Tien-cha, or of new Gibraltar,
which forms the harbour of Turon, had prevented the
ships, lying under it, from feeling much of the effectof the
sea breeze. They waited, therefore, on the day of their
departure, for the land wind, which always rises there
in the afternoon. Its direction was from south by east
to south-south-east; and it drove them above one hun-
dred miles from Turon in the course of the first twenty-
four hours. In that space it was found that a current
had run in a direction north sixty-seven degrees west
about thirty miles, or one mile and a quarter in every
hour. Such a current there, at this time, was naturally
to be expected. The tide flows from the eastward to-
wards the shores of Cochin-china between the Paracels,
mentioned in the last chapter, and a large island called
Hai-nan. As the water, returning from those shores,
is too weak to counteract the constant eastern tide, it
is forced along the inward trending coast, towards the
northward, into the gulf of Tung-quin; from whence
there is no outlet, except a narrow passage formed be-
tween Hai-nan and a long neck of land jetting from the
continent of China. This passage being directly open
to the east, the water brought by the constant eastern

 
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

tide is thus hemmed ‘into a gulf; and accumulating in
vast ‘quantities, occasions very high tides, and that ir-
regularity to which Sir Isaac Newton has adverted in his
works.
« In’ the second day’s course there appeared : to be a
small set by a current about eight miles north-east,
caused, probably, by the reflux of the sea from’ the east-
ern coast of Hai-nan, to which the ships were oppose
at noon.

On the third day, the nineteenth of June, a current
set from the eastward thirteen miles, which might be
produced by the influx of the tide through the neigh-
bouring straits of Hai-nan, across the mouth of which
the squadron passed that day. |

On the twentieth of June were seen a high peaked
island, called by Europeans the Grand Ladrone, and
another near it, whose summit 1s. more level and
somewhat lower than the former; and the same day
brought also the main land of Gite into sight, bearing
north-north-east. Tho it was at such a distance as to
prevent distinguishing more than that the land was
high and of an unequal surface, having otherwise no-
thing peculiar in its appearance; yet even this distant
prospect left a cheerful impression on the mind; as if

a point were gained that made an era in the history of
the voyage.

On the twenty-first of June the ships came to anchor
VOL. 1. 3 G

385

Passage to
the Ladrone
Islands.

——————
a —]
386

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

radrone  under'the lee of another of the Ladrones, called Chook-

Islands.

 

choo, in twelve fathoms water, the bottom muddy: the
Grand Ladrone bearing west-south-west, distant three
leagues, and Chook-choo south by west, three miles.
The latitude of the Grand Ladrone appeared to be |
twenty-one degrees fifty-two minutes north, and the
longitude one hundred and thirteen degrees thirty-six
minutes east of Greenwich. The latitude of Chook-
choo twenty-one degrees fifty-five minutes north, and
its longitude one hundred and thirteen degrees forty-
four minutes east. These longitudes are a few miles less
easterly than the situation in which those islands are
generally supposed to lie; but being deduced from a
time-keeper that had been found to agree within a very
few minutes of longitude, with the mean of several lunar
observations, taken two days before, it is presumed they
are nearly correct.

The margins, or rocks of the Ladrone islands next the
sea, are of a black, or dark brown colour, owing to the
action of the salt water. The spray and dashing of the
waves upon them have corroded their surface in many
parts, so as to give them an honeycombed appearance.
There are some springs to be found upon those islands.
The water is not brackish, ner has it any chalybeate,
or other mineral taste. The soil upon the surface ap-

pears to be of the same nature with the component

parts of the rocks below, and indeed is nothing else
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

than the upper layer of the rock, decomposed and pul-
verized by the joint action of the sun and rain in the
succession of ages. The rock consists of a mixture of
clay, calx of iron in a small proportion, and a great deal
of siliceous earth and mica. The sea all round is of a
dirty yellowish muddy colour, and of no great depth.
The bottom is mud and clay.

The Ladrones, and clusters of islands between them
and the southern extremity of China, are so near to
each other and to the main land, and are also so broken,
as well as so irregular in their form and position, as to
appear like fragments, disjointed from the continent,
and one from the other, at remote periods, by the succes-
sive violence of mighty torrents, or in some sudden con-
vulsions of nature. Those fragments have now a very
barren and unpromising aspect. In particular spots, in-
deed, there are some scattered patches of pleasing verdure;
but, in general, little better than naked rocks appear;
and scarcely a tree or shrub is visible amongst them.
Those islands serve chiefly as retreats for pirates, and
for the temporary abode of fishermen.

Sir Erasmus Gower observes, that <¢ all the islands to
‘“ the eastward of the Grand Ladrone are steeper than
¢¢ those to the westward. The former are high and un-
‘““ even, and the depth of water among them is about
““ twenty fathoms. The latter are tolerably even, and,

387

Ladrone
Islands.
588 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Ladrone  ¢¢ taken together, appear like a continued land ; and the
Islands. : . 99
— a ‘water among them is shoaler than among the former.

The squadron being now upon the confines of China,
and the Embassador about to send messengers to Macao,
application was made to his Excellency by two native
Chinese, who had been companions of the interpreters,
and to whom his Excellency had granted a passage in
the Hindostan, that they might be taken ashore by the
same opportunity. They conducted themselves through-
out the voyage with great propriety. One of them, who
was uncommonly expert in writing the Ghinese charac-
ters, had usefully assisted in the translation of papers
into that language, preparatory to the Embassador’s ar-
rival in China. His Excellency wished to make him
a. compensation for his trouble; but, tho he had no
means of subsistence beside a very scanty allowance
from Rome, no efforts were able to persuade him to
accept money or presents of any kind. He considered
himself as under much obligation, not only for the op-
portunity given him of returning to his country, but
for the civilities shewn to him during the voyage. He
felt both gratitude and esteem for the English nation;
and ample justice would be done to its character’ in
China, were his opinions on the subject universally
adopted by his countrymen. |
One of the interpreters wished also at this time to
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

retire from the service of the Embassy. He began to be
extremely apprehensive of being noticed by the Chinese
government, in case he continued with the Embassador,
as, by the laws of the country, he was liable to punish-
ment, both for having left it without permission, and
afterwards for accepting an employment from a foreigner.
A greater firmness of mind enabled his companion, the
other Chinese interpreter, tho exactly in the same pre-
dicament, to adopt a very different determination. The
latter considered himself as having entered into an engage-
ment to accompany the Embassy throughout, and was
not to be deterred from what he once had undertaken,
by subsequent reflections upon the danger that might
attend it. There was reason, indeed, to hope that the
Embassador would be able to protect him, should it
even be discovered that he had been born within the
confines of the Chinese territories. He was a native of
a part of Tartary annexed to China, and had not those
features which denote a perfect Ghinese origin; but
his name having a signification in the language of that
country, he changed it for one which bore the same
meaning in English. He put on an English military
uniform, and wore a sword and a cockade He thought
it right to take those precautions for his safety ; but
was prepared for any event that might take place,
without being in the least disturbed about what it
might be.

389

Ladrone
Islands.

 
390 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

 Ladrone The other three Chinese embarked aboard the brigs
Islands. .
m= for Macao, together with the persons who were sent by
the Embassador for the purposes already mentioned.
Dispatches from the government general of the Dutch

East India settlements, to their resident in China, con-

 

taining orders for his co-operation with the views of the
British Embassy, were forwarded to him likewise at this
time, as well as letters to the same effect from the cardi-
nal prefect of the congregation for propagating the faith
at Rome, to the procurator of the missions residing at
Macao. The English factory was still also residing at
that place, as none of the ships from Europe had yet ar-
rived, that season, in the river of Canton.

Through the English East India Company’s commis-
sioners, the Embassador had information that, ¢¢ his Im-
«« perial Majesty’s disposition to afford a reception to the
“ Embassy, suitable to its dignity, had not suffered the
“¢ least diminution, as appeared by his repeated instruc-
““ tions on this subject to the different governments
‘“ upon the coast. He had given orders for Mandarines
““ to await his Excellency’s arrival, and pilots to be pro-
““ perly stationed to take charge of his Majesty’s ships,
““ and to conduct them in safety to Tien-sing, as well as
““ to prepare for receiving the Embassador, and convey-
“ ing him and his suite, to Pekin: concluding his com-
¢¢ mands with these remarkable words, tkat as a great
*« Mandarine had come so far to visit him, he must be received
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

“in a distinguished manner, and answerable to the oc-
Ss icasion. i |

The commissioners, who knew with how different a
spirit foreigners were received and treated at Canton, en-
tertained no doubt that ‘¢ the governing officers of that
« place had thrown a veil over the disposition and in-
¢¢ tentions of the Emperor towards Europeans, and that
‘“ nothing was so much wanting, or would be of such
‘ singular advantage to the East India Company, as a
““ free and immediate communication between their
‘“ servants and the court of Pekin, should an opening
“« offer for obtaining it in the course of his Excellency’s
‘“ negotiations. The Embassy did not, certainly, appear
‘““ to be agreeable to some of the officers of the govern-
‘““ ment of Canton, who were perhaps apprehensive of
‘“ its consequences to themselves. The motives which
¢¢ gaverise to the Embassy had been anxiously inquired
‘“ into by them; and particularly by the Hoppo, or chief
*“ officer of the revenue, and inspector of foreign trade
‘“ there, whose consciousness of having merited repre-
‘ hension for well known acts of his office, always con-
*“ nected in his mind the subject of complaint with the
‘“ views of the Embassy. The commissioners had no
““ doubt of every engine having been set to work by him,
“ to prevent the success of their proceedings with regard
““ to it; and when he found a flaw in their commission,
““ by their not having been deputed directly from the

391

Ladrone
Islands.
392

Ladrone
Islands.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘“ King of Great Britain, but being merely represen-
< tatives of the East India Company, he did not let slip
‘¢ the occasion to perplex and oppose them by every ar-
“ tifice in his power.

The Foo-yen, or Governor of Canton, was likewise
still solicitous to discover the private objects of the Em-
bassy; and aware that some of them might relate to
persons from whom the commissioners would wish them
to be concealed at this early period, he gave assurances
to the commissioners that, *¢ if they should disclose them
¢ to him, he would confine the matter within his own

‘“ breast, and that of the Emperor.” The commissioners

very properly replied that ‘they were ignorant of any
‘“ views beside those which obviously occurred of pay-
““ ing a just compliment to his Imperial Majesty, and of
«“ cultivating his friendship; but that if there were any
« other, they were undoubtedly confided to the Emhas:
““ sador alone.”

It was perhaps in the hope of penetrating into those
supposed intentions, and, if any such there were, of ob-
structing the progress of the Embassy, that the commis-
sioners were repeatedly urged to write to the Embassador
to stop at Canton, where all foreign vessels came, in-
stead of proceeding to Tien-sing. And this was pressed
with so much earnestness, that the cemmissioners found
it insufficient for them to observe that ‘it was neither
““ their province to advise, or perhaps in the Embas-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

““ sador’s power to admit of, a deviation from the orders
*“ he had received upon that subject,” and they thought
it prudent to declare the utter improbability that any
vessel, which might be dispatched from Canton for such
a purpose, could fall in with the squadron having his
Excellency on board. They were, indeed, after such a
declaration, precluded from applying for pilots to go in
search of the squadron, from the southern extremity of
China; and therefore requested only that such should
‘“ be in readiness at the port of Chu-san, in the province
‘““ of Che-kiang, and at that of Ning-hai, in the pro-
““ vince of Shan-tung, both on the eastern coast of the
‘“ empire. It was probable also that pilots from those
““ ports would be better acquainted with the route to the
‘“ gulf of Pekin than these residing at a greater distance.
““ It happened also that Ghu-san, the port first mentioned,
““ had in former times been visited by the Company's
““ ships, and could not easily be missed. Neither was
““ it unlikely that the expedition, if not the success of
‘“ the enterprize, would be secured by adopting that
“ mode, instead of bringing pilots to Canton, where their
“ integrity might be exposed to the influence and in-
“ trigues of persons avowedly adverse to the Embassy.”

Notwithstanding the jealousy entertained by the other
European factories, “¢ some of them, the ‘Dutch in par-
““ ticular, had already, since the notification of the Em-
““ bassy, availed themselves of the new influence of the

VOL. I. 3

«

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«o

395

Ladrone
Islands.

Re —
SCTE
39%

Ladrone

Islands.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

‘“ English, to escape the usual impositions laid on fo-
““ reigners, removing from Canton to Macao. Such was,

¢

-

indeed, the impression made by that notification, on
““ the officers of government at Canton, that several new
““ impositions which had been attempted by the Hoppo,
““ in the article of customs, since the arrival of the com-
‘“ missioners there, were immediately waved on their
«« resolute denial, without the usual inconvenience of
‘“ a delay in the shipping of teas. The complaints,
“ which the Hoppo suspected were to be preferred
“ against him, had produced of late, on his part, very
““ extraordinary instances of civility and forbearance.”
It was perceptible likewise, that the native agents and
servants of the English factory felt themselves on firmer
ground than formerly, and began to assert, without fear,
the rights of their employers against the vexations to
which they had hitherto been in the habit of submitting:
an advantage arising from the fact, independently of the
result, of the Embassy, and implying a conviction, that
there was now a channel open, by which remonstrances
against oppression might find an easy way to the im-
perial throne.

‘The governor of Canton had been anxious to receive
from the commissioners, a list of the presents which the
Embassador had in charge to deliver to the Emperor ;
and it appeared that no small curiosity had been excited
about them at the court of Pekin, which the governor
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

was desirous of having the means to gratify. He had
made it a necessary condition ; alleging, that * he could
““ not send the letter announcing the Embassador’s ap-
“« proach, with an offering to his master, without trans-
‘“ mitting the particulars of it.” The commissioners gave
all the satisfaction they were able, in regard to what the
Embassador was to bring with him ; and accounted for
their imperfect knowledge of the subject, from the cir-
cumstance of their having left England before many of
the presents were provided. The importance which
appeared to be thus attached to the nature of the pre-
sents, must be supposed to proceed not so much from
avidity of gain, on the part of the great monarch for
whom they were intended, as from the inference to be
drawn from their rarity and value, with regard to the
degree of consideration and respect in which he was
held by the prince who sent them, in this first instance
of a direct communication between the two sovereigns.
The specimens of the arts and ingenuity of Europe,
which had reached Pekin by other means, were suffi-
cient to convey a very exalted idea of what might be ex-
pected from thence on extraordinary occasions.

The Embassador was informed also by the commis-
stoners that ** two of the native merchants of Canton
“ had been ordered to hold themselves in readiness to
** proceed to any part of the coast, on the report of his
‘“ Majesty's ships being arrived there with the Embas-

395

‘Ladrone
Islands.
596 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Ladrone  *¢ sador, and in all probability to accompany his Ex-
=== ‘‘ cellency to court.” It was supposed that they were
intended to serve as interpreters, as well as to treat for
any goods which might be sent with the Embassador
for sale ; but the commissioners being of opinion that
.¢¢ the great concerns which those merchants had with
‘“ the Gompany, might be materially injured by their
“ absence,” petitioned the government not to remove
them from their business, adding ¢ that the Embas-
‘ sador was already sufficiently provided with inter-
“« preters, and that the Company had sent no goods for
““ sale in the ship which attended the Embassy, as she
‘ was chiefly laden with the presents for the Emperor.”
. These merchants, indeed, beside being but very imper-
tectly qualified as interpreters, were too great gainers by
the connection, as it now stood, with foreigners at
Canton, to be fond of furthering a measure from whence
they might apprehend a change; and, on the same ac-
count, they might even join in any intrigue against it at
Pekin. It happened likewise that the journey, at that
- time, would have been attended with considerable in-
jury to their private affairs. They aided, therefore, the
petition presented in their favour, by no inconsiderable
presents to some of the officers of the government of
Canton; and they were excused from leaving home.
On occasion of former embassies, one of the mission-
aries dependent on the palace had been sometimes sent
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

from thence to meet the Embassador and attend him to
court ; but a change of system, with respect to them,
had lately taken place. For two or three years past,
since the first accounts of the confusions in France, and
the dissemination of principles subversive of tranquillity
in government, were received at Pekin, the dread lest
such principles should find their way into the East, had
occasioned precautions to be taken against their intro-
duction. Tho no determination was made to exclude
foreigners from Canton, restrictions upon their conduct
were enforced with redoubled vigilance ; and tho mis-
sionaries were received in China, and even, as astrono-
mers and artists, encouraged 1n the capital, their corres-
pondence, from whatever part of Europe, was hence-
forward intercepted, in order to be examined ;: and tho
no set of men could feel a greater horror of the revo-
lution and subsequent anarchy, in the course of which,
indeed, those funds in France, from whence stipends

397

Ladrone
Islands.

had been regularly remitted to them, were seized by the

democratic rulers of the state; yet were they now, in
some degree, mistrusted by the jealous and cautious go-
vernment of China.

The preference, therefore, on the present occasion
of communicating with foreigners, was naturally given
by the Chinese to their own subjects. The Portugueze,
indeed, of the dependent settlement of Macao, were, in
some degree, considered in that light. The intimate

»
398

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Ladrone connection, on the other hand, subsisting for a long

Islands.

 

time between that nation and the English, naturally led
the latter to expect every friendly assistance from the
former. But by the intelligence the Embassador received
at this time, through an unquestionable channel, it ap-
peared that their ancient policy, of endeavouring to ex-
clude all other foreigners from China, still continued in
its full force ; and his Excellency had, at least, the early
advantage of being thus apprized, that he was to depend
chiefly upon the impression which his own conduct
and that of his suite would make upon the Chinese, for
removing any prejudices against the nation he went to
represent, as well as for overcoming the difficulties that
might be thrown in his way, during his residence in
the country.

Soon after the return of the brigs from Macao, on the
twenty-third of June the squadron weighed anchor from
Chook-choo, and proceeded with a favourable gale to-
wards the straits which divide the continent of China
from the great island of Formosa, as it is generally termed
by Europeans, but which among the natives, as well as
the Chinese, is called Tai-wan. ‘The same day the squa-
dron passed between two small islands, one called Asses’
Ears, from its forked aspect, the other termed Lema,
both of them barren and uncultivated, and surrounded
by large rocks, appearing above the surface of the sea.
Those rocks, as well as the islands, seemed to be com-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

399

posed of solid granite. The situations of the islands, as- Passage to

certained by meridional observations, and by the mean
of several time-keepers, are,
The Asses’ Ears 21° 55")
Lema - 22 0 |

The next day, the twenty-fourth of June, a large ele-
vated rock came in sight. It is perfectly white, and, on
that account, is called Pedra Branca by the Portugueze,
who having been the first European navigators in these
seas, many of their names were adopted by their suc-
cessors. The latitude of Pedra Branca is twenty-two
degrees nineteen minutes north, and its longitude one
hundred and fourteen degrees fifty-seven minutes east.
Fahrenheit’s thermometer at noon stood at eighty-four
degrees, and the barometer at twenty-nine inches, se-
venty-three decimal parts. A current appeared to have
set north by east during the last twenty-four hours, at
the rate of about a mile an hour.

1at. of { north{ Long. gst fest

114::07

In the course of the next day, June twenty-fifth, the

squadron crossed the tropic of Cancer ; and the setting
of the sun, that evening, was attended with an unusual
degree of redness in the firmament. The quicksilver sunk
suddenly in the barometer, and the wind increased to a
fresh gale from the south-west. The next morning, still
the twenty-fifth of June, according to the mode of reckon-
ing time at sea from noon to noon, was ushered in with
heavy squalls, rain, thunder, and lightning. Before noon

Chu-san.

 
400

Passage to
Chu-san.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

1t was almost calm ; but the sea remained agitated for
some time. The thermometer stood at eighty-two de-
grees, and the barometer at twenty-nine inches, sixty-
three decimal parts.

The twenty-sixth of June was squally, accompanied
by dreadful thunder, lightning, and almost incessant
rain. The wind varied gradually from the south-east to
south by west. The weather was so thick and cloudy
that no observation could be taken the whole day ; nor
could the continent of China be distinguished, tho the
squadron was now in the narrowest part of the strait
between it and Formosa, and not distant from either
much above ten leagues; and the land of both is so high,
that, in clear weather, one can be seen from the other.
The north-west part of Formosa was indeed perceived
this day, for a few minutes, a little after sunrise, bearing
from south-east by east to south.

In rainy weather the Chinese sailors change their
cotton clothes for jackets and trowsers, composed of reeds
unbent and uncompressed, lying close and parallel to each
other, together with large slouched hats of the same
material, over the exterior surface of all which the rain
slides off, as over the feathers of aquatic birds. This
coarse but convenient covering very much resembles the
dress worn, under similar circumstances, by the natives
of the north-west coast of America. Tho it be possible
that some original connection between the two countries,
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

401

enabled the one to borrow from the other, it appears passage to

more probable that the same wants suggested to both the
same contrivance.

If tolerable good weather might at any season be ex-
pected in this strait, it was most likely to be found in
the height of summer, and about the middle of the mon-
soon ; but from the situation and direction of the strait,
it is probable that moderate weather seldom prevails
in it; for as it lies in a line with the north-east and
south-west points of the compass, and is bounded on
each side by ranges of mountains running in the same
direction, the effect of the monsoons is increased by the

compression which the air undergoes in passing through

this narrow channel, which stands open, like a funnel,
to receive it from the two points whence the monsoons
regularly blow. The currents, as might be expected,
are found, invariably, to set with the monsoon: so that
it may be considered as scarcely practicable for ships to
work up against it. In the manuscript journal of the
passage of the Argonaut through the strait of Formosa,
towards the latter end of April, 1789, the title imports
that it was ‘‘ against the north-east monsoon ;” but it
appears from the journal itself, that the monsoon was
then breaking up, the winds blowing from all points of
the compass, and as often for, as against, that vessel's in-
tended course. Her small size, moreover, enabled her to

run within many of the islands that lie off the coast of
VOL. I, 3 E

Chu-san.
402 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Passage to China, where she anchored from time to time, as occa-
====== sion required.

The squadron continued to have squally weather,
chiefly from the westward, on the twenty-seventh of
June with almost continued heavy rain, and a cross con-
fused swell of the sea. In the night the wind was variable.
Toward thelatter part it blew chiefly from the northward.
The latitude by the reckoning differed sixteen miles
from the observation at noon; andthe longitude, by the
chronometer, was fifty miles to the eastward of that by
account; whence it was inferred that the current had
run, within these three last days, forty-eight miles in the
direction of north seventy degrees east, or at the rate of
two-thirds of a mile in every hour. The thermometer
at noon was at seventy-nine degrees; and the barometer

at twenty-nine inches, seventy-three decimal parts.

During the twenty-eighth of June the wind was mo-
derate and variable, chiefly blowing from northerly
points; a cross and heavy swell setting easterly. As soon
as the squadron had cleared, or passed beyond the strait,
a current, setting to the westward, seemed to run against
the heave of the sea, at the rate of upwards of half a mile
an hour. The weather being now apparently more
settled, the squadron made sail for the islands lying off
Chu-san.

On the twenty-ninth the weather was hazy and un-
pleasant. The soundings decreased from fifty-two to
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

403

twenty-two fathoms. A cluster of islands came in sight, Passage to

Chu-san.

called the Hey-san or black islands, being little more a=

than naked rocks. Their latitude is twenty-eight de-
grees fifty-three minutes north, and longitude one hun-
dred and twenty-one degrees twenty-four minutes east.
This cluster of islands lies a very few miles distant from
the continent of Ghina.

On the thirtieth the weather was thick and muddy,
with moderate breezes from the south-west. In steering
to the northward, the soundings increased regularly
from twenty-two to thirty-two fathoms.

During the whole of the first of July the weather was
thick and drizzling. The wind varied from south-west
to south. Another cluster of islands were now observed
called the Quee-san islands, close to which the squadron
approached the next day, the second of July, and an-
chored in nine fathoms water, muddy bottom: the high-
est and most southern of those islands bearing north by
west four miles. This island, called by the English
Patchcock, is in latitude.twenty-nine degrees twenty-
two minutes north, and longitude, by chronometer,
one hundred and twenty-one degrees fifty-two minutes
east.

On the following morning, which was the latter part of
the nautical day, the squadron weighed anchor, in order to
stand in nearerto Chu-san, which they had some difficulty
in effecting, on account of a vast number of Chinese boats

 
404

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

cus of different sizes crowding round them: the novelty of

Islands.

European vessels having excited the most eager curio-
sity in the people of those boats. Above three hun-
dred were reckoned about the Lion, wedged, as it were,
one within another. Thousands were within sight,
many employed in fishing; many of a larger size in
carrying timber of different dimensions, and for various
uses, as well as other articles of merchandize. Some of
these moved forward in a line abreast. Some were lashed
together, to receive timbers of uncommon size ranged
across both decks. All of them were furnished with sails
of matting instead of canvas, and more fully manned
than is usual in European vessels of equal burthen: the
whole implying, beyond any thing hitherto observed
elsewhere, a neighbourhood of extensive commerce, or
abundant population.

Out of one of those boats the Hindostan procured a
pilot, who was a man of some intelligence. He guided
her, at first, between the Quee-san islands and the con-
tinent, proceeding to the northward towards those other
clusters of islands of different sizes, among the inner-
most of which is that of Chu-san. The only danger in
entering between the Quee-sans and the continent, is
from a small rock, covered at high water, which appears
to have been first seen from the ship Normanton, in the
year 1736. In the manuscript journal of that voyage,
it is described ‘* to lie about south-west by west from
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

405

*« Patchcock, at the distance of four leagues. When it ches

‘ was discovered, the tide was at the first quarter of the
‘“ ebb. When within four or five miles of the rock, it
¢¢ did not appear larger than a ship’s long-beat turned
‘“ bottom up; and as it was then at the dead of the
‘“ neap, it must be considerably under water in spring
¢“ tides.” This rock may easily be avoided by keeping
the Quee-san islands well aboard, or within a little dis-
tance; for there is not the least danger beyond a mile
and a half to the southward or westward of them.

In the curious collection of charts published by Mr.
Dalrymple, is one of the Chu-san islands, constructed by
Captain Thornton. In that chart another rock, called the
Holderness rock, on which a ship struck of that name, is
laid down at more than three miles distance from the small
island at the southern extremity of the great, or largest of
the cluster of the Quee-sans, agreeably to the bearings and
distances recorded in the log-book of that ship; but the
Chinese pilot of the Hindostan knew of no such danger,
so far from the shore. Inthe chart annexed to this work
(No. 5,) and altered from that just mentioned, the Holder-
ness rock is laid down in its true position, according to the
following bearings and distances, which were obligingly
communicated by Thomas Fitzhugh, Esquire, at that time

a passenger on board the Holderness, and now one of the

directors of the East India Company. He observed that

*¢ the bearings were taken by him while the Holderness

Islands.

 
406

Chu-san
, Islands.

eee etree.
IETS

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

““ lay on the rocks. Buffaloe’s Nose, easternmost end
“ north-north-west northerly. Southernmost small Quee-
‘“ san, the body south-east. Second Quee-san, the peak
“ in the middle, south-east by east. Three small rocks,
““ of which two only are to be seen at high water, east-
«« south-east half south. Third Quee-san, the body
«« east, distant one mile and a quarter. Northernmost
““ part of the Quee-sans, north-north-east. The largest
““ of the cluster called the Whelps, north-north-west
‘ half west. The bearings recorded in the journal of
‘¢ the Holderness were taken when at anchor afterwards,
‘“ at a distance from the rock.”

The route, followed by the squadron, was between the
Quee-san islands and a small cluster, named by the Eng-
lish the Bear and Cubs, lying to the westward of the
Quee-sans and close to the continent of China. San-men,
or the Whelps, were another group of islands lying to
the northward, and in the middle of the passage towards
Chu-san. Close to the westward of these the depth of
water 1s five fathoms, and to the eastward seven. From
them a north-north-west course leads between a cluster

~ of small islands or rocks, surrounded with foul ground,

called the Caulkers and Castle rock, and a small island
to the eastward of them, called Kin-sa-hoia, or Starboard
Jack, having a few rocks scattered on its southern side.
In this part of the channel the bottom is very level ; and
accordingly an infinite number of boats with nets were
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

occupied hereabouts, trolling, or dragging, the nets ex-
tended between two vessels, in every direction.

The same course leads between Buffaloe’s Nose on the
west side, and the Tinker on the east, to an island called
Tree-a-top. This circumstance would be a sufficient
distinction among islands which, the covered with ver-
dure to their summits, have very few trees growing
upon them. No doubt this island deserved the appel-
lation given to it when it was first described, together
~ with the neighbouring isles, by the Europeans, above
half a century ago, at which time they were permitted to
trade to Chu-san; but the tree is gone, and this island,
which is now as bare as those surrounding it, is only
known by its relative position on the chart.

To the southward of Tree-a-top island about three or
four miles, there is excellent anchorage, in five or six
fathoms water, where ships are sheltered from every
wind. There the Hindostan anchored; but the Lion
and Jackall stood in between the Plowman and Buf-
faloe’s Nose, on the former of which they took a supply
of water ; while the Clarence with Mr. Barrow, the Chi-
nese interpreter, and two other gentlemen of the Em-
bassy, were dispatched to Chu-san for the Chinese pilots,
ordered to be in readiness there to conduct the squadron
to Tien-sing. |

Most of the Chu-san islands consisted of hills rising
with a regular slope, and rounded at top, as if any points

 

407

Chu-san
Islands.
408

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

chusan Or angles existing in their original formation, had been

Islands. :

gradually worn off into a globular and uniform shape.
Many of those islands, tho close toeach other, were divided
by channels of great depth. They rested upon a founda-
tion of grey or red granite, some part resembling por-
phyry, except in hardness. They were, certainly, not
formed in consequence of successive alluvion by earth
carried to the sea by the great river at whose mouth they
were situate, like the numerous low and muddy islands,
at the mouth of the Po, and many others; but should
rather be considered as the remains of part of the con-
tinent thus scooped and furrowed, as it were, into islands,
by the force of violent torrents wafting further into
the sea, whatever was less resistible than the rocks just
mentioned. Some of them wore a very inviting aspect.
One in particular, called Poo-too, is described as a perfect
paradise. This spot was chosen, no doubt, for its natural
beauties, and afterwards embellished by a set of religious
men, who, to the number of three thousand, possess the
whole of it, living there in a state of celibacy. It con-
tains four hundred temples, to each of which are annex-
ed dwelling houses and gardens, for the accommodation
of those monks. This large monastery, as it may be
called, is richly endowed, and its fame is spread through-
out the empire. ;

During the absence of the Clarence, the Lion moored
between the Plowman and Buffaloe’s Nose islands, the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

former bearing north-west by north, and the north end
of the latter north-east by north. This is a most excel-
lent harbour, secure from all winds, and the holding
ground so good that it required the whole strength of the
ship’s crew, with the assistance of every purchase, to
weigh the anchors. The depth of water is from twelve
to twenty-two fathoms. The tide in this spot rises about
twelve feet, and runs at the full and change of the moon,

two miles and a half an hour. Its latitude is twenty-nine
degrees forty-five minutes north, and longitude one hun-
dred and twenty-one degrees twenty-six minutes east.
The Plowman’s islands are inhabited, and contain several
spots of beautiful verdure ; but not a shrub, except a very
few dwarf fruit trees, oaks, and Weymouth pines. The
rocks upon the Plowman’s isles are of the same nature as
those already mentioned on the Ladrones ; but with the
addition, in some parts, of perpendicular veins of white,
and of blue and white, spar.

The ship was supplied from thence, at tone rates,
with bullocks, goats, and fowls ; and from some of the sur-
rounding boats, with a variety of excellent fish. The sight
of a vessel of uncommon construction, as well as size, such
as the Lion certainly appeared here, put, for a time, in this
neighbourhood, almost an end to labour by sea and land.
Her decks were so crowded with visitors, and others
were waiting with such eagerness to come on board, that
it became necessary to dismiss, after a short visit, the

0

VOL. I. 2 F

409

Chu-san
Isiands.

—
Re i hy
410 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

chusan first comers, in order to be able to gratify the curiosity
Islands.

 

of others. Some of them entering into the great cabin
of the Lion, where the Embassador had a portrait of the
Emperor of China, immediately recognized it, and pro-
strating themselves before it, kissed the ground several
times with great devotion. On rising, they appeared to
feel a sort of gratitude towards the foreigner who had
the attention to place the portrait of their sovereign in
his apartment. Tho the ship’s crew, at length, suffered
many of them to range unnoticed and unaccompanied
thro every part of the vessel, this indulgence was not
abused by the commission of any act of impropriety.
Among them few betrayed that awkwardness or rude-
ness of manners, or apparent vacancy of mind, so fre-
quently observable among other people in the lower
classes of life. |
The Clarence in going to Chu-san, worked with the
tide up Duflield’s passage, where she was obliged ‘to
anchor when the ebb began. This passage is formed
between the large island Lowang on the east, and a
smaller, on the west, and is not above three miles wide;
yet the depth of water is from one hundred to one hun-
dred and twenty fathoms, and in the midst are several
rocks, .and two or three islets. The Clarence anchored
in this passage, within a cable's length or half-quarter of
a mile, from a small peninsula surrounded by a muddy
bank, part of which was dry at low water; and the isthmus
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

that connects it with the island Lowang is covered at
high spring tides. At the edge of this bank the an-
chorage was in fifteen fathoms, the bottom soft mud.

The gentlemen, who were in the brig, were willing
to employ the time that was to intervene, until the tide
should turn in their favour for Chu-san, in going ashore
to pay their first visit to the territories of China. But
it was not easy to effect a landing, as the Lowang shore
was surrounded by soft deep clay and mud, wherever
the bank ran out, and by steep rocks elsewhere. They
found, at last, means to climb up the latter. From one
of the neighbouring hills the passage in which the Cla-
rence lay had the appearance of a river, while the sea
beyond it might be considered as an immense lake stud-
ded with innumerable islands. The hill on which they
stood was covered with strong grasses, reeds, and shrub-
bery, together with plants sufficiently denoting a situ-
ation remote from Europe. There were so few trees or
cattle, that the country had the appearance of nakedness
to an European eye.

Descending from the hill, they came to a small level
plain recovered from the sea, which was kept out by
an embankment of earth, at least thirty feet thick. The
quantity of ground gained by it scemed scarcely to be
worth the labour that it must have cost. The plain was,
indeed, cultivated with the utmost care, and laid out,
chiefly, in rice-plats, supplied with water collected from

411

Chu-san
Islands.

—e
A AA RAG Sei.
412

Chu-san

Islands.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the adjacent hills into little channels, through which it
was conveyed to every part of those plantations. It was
manured, instead of the dung of animals, with matters
more offensive to the human senses, and which are not
very generally applied to the purposes of agriculture in
England. Earthen vessels were sunk into the ground
for the reception of such manure ; and for containing
liquids of an analogous nature, in which the grain was
steeped previously to its being sown: an operation
which 1s supposed to hasten the growth of the future
plant, as well as to prevent any injury from insects in
its tender state.

The party fell in with a peasant who, tho struck
with their appearance, was not so scared by it as to shun
them. He was dressed in loose garments of blue cotton,
a straw hat upon his head fastened by a string under his
chin, and half boots upon his legs. He seemed to enter
into the spirit of curiosity, naturally animating travel-
lers, and readily led them towards an adjoining village.
Passing by a small farm house, they were invited into
it by the tenant, who, together with his son, observed
them with astonished eyes. The house was built of
wood, the uprights of the natural form of the timber.
No ceiling concealed the inside of the roof, which was
put together strongly, and covered with the straw of
rice. The floor was of earth beaten hard, and the parti-
tions between the rooms consisted of mats hanging from
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the beams. Two spinning wheels for cotton were seen
in the outer room ; but the seats for the spinners were

empty. They had probably been filled by females, who

retired on the approach of strangers. While they re-
mained, none of that sex appeared. Round the house
were planted clusters of bamboo, and of that species of
palm, of which each leaf resembles the form of a fan ; and
used as such, becomes an article of merchandize.

The return of the tide put an end to this visit to
Lowang, of which place one of the natives said that it
was so considerable, and so well peopled, as to contain
near ten thousand inhabitants.

The Clarence proceeding towards Chu-san, came in
the dusk of the evening to a long projecting promon-
tory, called in the chart Kee-to point. It is the extre-
mity of a chain of mountains upon the Chinese conti-
nent, composed apparently of masses of granite. Round
this point the tide ran in whirling eddies, with a rapi-
dity that would force into its vortex a ship of the
largest size, unless a strong breeze enabled her to sail
past it. Within a hundred yards of the point, the mud
is brought up from the bottom in such quantities as to
excite alarm, lest the ship should strike the ground, in
those who are not aware of the vast depth of water in
this spot, which exceeds one hundred fathoms. A little
to the southward of the point the Clarence found good
anchorage, in seventeen fathoms, where it was thought

413

Chu-san

Islands.
4114

. Chu-san
Islands.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

prudent to remain that night, as the passages among the
islands leading to Chu-san were narrow and intricate.
In consequence of the regulations of the vigilant govern-
ment of China, a report of her approach had already
reached Chu-san. A Chinese vessel anchored near her,
from which an officer came on board to announce that
the next morning his barge should conduct the foreign
vessel into the harbour of Chu-san, whither she was sup-
posed to be bound. She proceeded with the early morn-
ing’s tide, and after passing through several narrow
straits, arrived in that harbour.

Between the Quee-sans and Chu-san harbour, through
a space of about sixty miles in length, and thirty in
width, the number of islands exceeds three hundred. In
the chart of those islands, already mentioned to be an-
nexed to this work in the folio volume, 1s marked down
the track of the Clarence in her passage to, and return
from, the harbour of Chu-san. A dangerous rock, beside
that of the Holderness, on which the Hindostan struck,
on her return to the southward, is also marked upon it.
By a perusal of the manuscript journals of the English
East India Company's ships which had sailed formerly
to Chu-san, it appears that the Northumberland in the
year 1704, was the only one on board which it seems
to have been known that such a rock existed. In her

log-book it is observed that ¢ they kept Kitto point

“ open with Deer island, to avoid a sunken rock that
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

415

““ lay off Sarah Galley island ; which, and the flag-staff  chu.san

Islands.

‘“ on Ghu-san hill, being both in one, the ship is abreast SY

Sofi.

The part of the harbour in which the Clarence an-
chored, was distant about half a mile from a landing
place, near the house of the Tsung-ping, or military go-
vernor, who presided in this place, and which bore from
the brig north-east by north. The depth of water was five
fathoms. In this situation the four passages into the har-
bour were so shut in, that none of them were visible. It
looked like a lake surrounded by hills; and a person
standing upon the deck of the Clarence at anchor, could
scarcely point out how she got there. The small drawing
in the plate (No. 5 of the folio volume) was taken on the
spot. The extent of the harbour, from north to south, is
little more than a mile; but it is near three miles from
east to west. The rise and fall of the tides makes a diffe-
rence of about twelve feet. The time of high water, at
the full and change of the moon, appears to be about
twelve o'clock. The tides, however, are very irregular,
and vary according to the wind, and the eddies produced

by such a multiplicity of islands. At the anchoring

place of the Clarence the flood and ebb ran in the same
direction, within three points of the compass: the cur-
rent setting constantly between east and north-east by

east; and for the two days and nights, during which that
vessel continued in the harbour, her head always pointed
416 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Chu-san nearly to the same object on the shore. The circum-
stance of irregular tides had been noticed in the manu-
script journal of the Stringer galley, in the year 1708,
where it is mentioned that ¢* in the distance of two
‘“ leagues among the Chu-san islands, the irregularities

“of the tides were such that there was the difference
““ of two hours in the time of high water in the two
“« places.”

Among these numerous islands there are almost as
many valuable harbours or places of perfect security, for
ships of any burden. This advantage, together with that
of their central situation, in respect to the eastern coast
of China, and the vicinity of Corea, Japan, Leoo-keoo,
and Formosa, attract considerable commerce especially
to Ning-poo, a city of great trade in the adjoining pro-
vince of Che-kiang, to which all the Chu-san islands
are-annexed. From one port in that province twelve
vessels sail, annually, for copper to Japan.

Soon after the Clarence had anchored, some civil and
military officers came on board to inquire the occasion
of her visit; which being declared, it was settled that
the party should go ashore the next morning, and wait
on the governor to make their demand. With these of-
ficers came, to serve as an interpreter, a Chinese mer-
chant, who had formerly been connected in trade with
the agents of the East India Company, while they were
allowed to frequent this part of China. He still retained
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

417

somewhat of the English language. By this man’saccount chu-san

Islands.

the English had given no just cause of dissatisfaction in ss===

this place, thothey havebeen interdicted from it, through
the means, as is most likely, of the superior influence
of the officers governing at Canton, who are supposed to
draw large sums from the accumulation of foreign trade
in that port; and perhaps also from the increasing ap-
prehension, on the part of the Chinese government, of
the ill effects which might arise from an unrestrained
communication between foreigners and the subjects of
that empire, in several of its ports at the same time.
The Chinese merchant still recollected with pleasure the
names of Mr. Fitzhugh and Mr. Bevan, two of the Gom-
pany’s principal agents at Ning-poo and Chu-san; and
indulged a hope that the English trade would be again
permitted there. He explained the reason why a salute
by the Clarence of seven guns was answered by three only
from the shore, by observing, that among the regulations
of economy in the Chinese government, no greater num-
ber is permitted to be fired from the same spot, on any
occasion of compliment. This circumstance led him to
mention their rule in saluting, to point their guns al-
ways into the air; adding, that if such a prudential
caution had been practiced by the English, the accident
would not have happened at Canton, when two Chinese
were killed by a shot from an English vessel on a re-

joicing day, which endangered the continuance of the
VOL. I. 3G
418

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

chusan British trade in China, and ended in the capital punish-

Islands.

 

 

ment of the gunner: the Chinese government taking it
for granted, that guns pointed horizontally, must be
really meant, whatever might be the pretence, for mis-
chief.

As soon as it was known that the Clarence belonged
to the Embassy, for the honourable reception and perfect
accommodation of which orders, unexampled on the oc-
casion of former embassies, had been issued to all the
provinces along the coast, the governor sent presents of
all sorts of provisions on board. The next morning he
received the gentlemen with great politeness, invited
them to plays and entertainments, and expressed his
hope that a formal deputation, which he had already
dispatched to the Lion, lying at anchor at some distance,
would prevail on the Embassador to come ashore, where
preparations were making to receive him with all due
honours. The earnest desire of repairing speedily into
the presence of the Emperor, served as a full apology for
declining to accede to any proposition which might tend
to delay ; as well as for pressing him about pilots.

As to these the governor conceived that he had fully
complied with the instructions he had received from
court for that purpose, by having persons ready to con-
duct the squadron along shore to the next province to

the northward, and that others would be found to con-

duct them, in like manner, successively, till they should
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

419

get to Tien-sing. It was, however, certain that coasting Chussah

in this manner must be extremely tedious, and otherwise
improper for large ships, drawing much water, as, near
the shore, the risk of getting upon shoals, or striking
upon rocks was greater than farther out at sea. This
difficulty was stated to the governor, to whom the idea
of a direct navigation to the gulf of Pekin, without any
intermediate stop, was altogether new. He thought pro-
per to consider of it till the next day.

The party, thus obliged to defer their return to the
Lion, went to view the city or walled town of Ting-hai,
situate within a mile from the large open village or
suburb, built along the shore. The way from one to
the other was over a plain, intersected with rivulets
and canals in various directions, which possibly might
serve, among other purposes, for that of separating the
different properties of individuals. The ground was cul-
tivated like a garden. Not a single spot was waste ; and
the road, tho good, was narrow, as if in order that as
little land as possible should be lost to culture.

The city walls were thirty feet high, and, like those
of a large prison, overtopped the houses which they sur-
rounded. Along the walls, at the distance of every hun-
dred yards, were square stone towers. In the parapets
were also embrasures, and holes in the merlons for ar-

chery ; but there were no cannon, except a few old

wrought-iron pieces near the gate. The gate was double ;

Islands.

 

 
420 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

chusan Within which was a guard-house, where military men
Islands. : ’

=—=== were stationed; and the bows and arrows, pikes, and
matchlocks, orderly arranged, were, no doubt, intended

for their use. J
Of the towns of Europe, Ting-hai bore the resem-
blance most of Venice, but on a smaller scale. It was,
in some degree, surrounded, as well as intersected, by
canals. The bridges thrown over them were steep, and
ascended by steps, like the Rialto. The streets, which
were no more than alleys or narrow passages, were
paved with square flat stones; but the houses, unlike
the Venetian buildings, were low, and mostly of one
story. The attention, as to ornament, in these buildings
was confined chiefly to the roofs, which, besides having
the tiles that cover the rafters luted and plastered over,
to prevent accidents from their falling in stormy wea-
ther, were contrived in such a form as to imitate the
inward bend of the ridges and sides of canvas tents, or
of the coverings of skins of animals or other flexible
materials, effected by their weight: a form preferred,
perhaps, after the introduction of more solid materials,
in allusion to the modes of shelter to which the human
race had, probably, recourse before the erection of re-
gular dwelling houses.” On the ridges of the roofs were
uncouth figures of animals, and other decorations in clay,
stone, or iron. The town was full of shops, containing,
chiefly, articles of clothing, food, and furniture, displayed

 
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

421

to full advantage. Even coffins were painted in a va- chusan

Islands.

riety of lively and contrasting colours. The smaller ===

quadrupeds, including dogs, intended for food, were,
as well as poultry, exposed alive for sale, as were fish in
tubs of water, and eels in sand. The number of places
where tin-leaf, and sticks of odoriferous wood were sold,
for burning in their temples, indicated no slight degree
of superstitious disposition in the people. Loose gar-
ments and trowsers were worn by both sexes; but the
men had hats of straw or cane which covered the head,
their hair, except one long lock, being cut short or
shaved ; while the women had theirs entire, and plaited
and coiled, becomingly, into a knot upon the crown of
the head, as is sometimes seen on the female statues of
antiquity. |

Throughout the place there was an appearance of
quick and active industry, beyond the natural effect of
a climate not quite thirty degrees from the equator; a
circumstance which implied the stimulus of necessity
compelling, or of reward exciting, to labour. None
seemed to shun it. None asked alms. Men, only, were
passing busily through the streets. Women were seen,
chiefly, in the shops, and at their doors and windows.

Of most of the latter, even in the middle and inferior
classes, the feet were unnaturally small, or rather trun-
cated. They appeared as if the fore part of the foot had
been accidentally cut off, leaving the remainder of the
422

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

chusan usual size, and bandaged like the stump of an amputated

Islands.

 

limb. They undergo, indeed, much torment, and cripple
themselves in great measure, in imitation of ladies of
higher rank, among whom it is there the custom to stop,
by pressure, the growth of the ancle as well as foot from
the earliest infancy ; and, leaving the great toe in its natu-
ral position, forcibly to bend the others, and retain them
under the foot, till at length they adhere to, as if buried
in the sole, and can no more be separated.
Notwithstanding the pliability of the human frame in
tender years, its tendency to expansion at that period
must, whenever it is counteracted, occasion uneasy sen-
sations to those who are so treated; and before the am-
bition of being admired takes possession of those victims
to fashion, it requires the vigilance of their female pa-
rents to deter them from relieving themselves from the
firm and tight compresses, which bind their feet and

_ancles. Where those compresses are constantly and

carefully kept on, the feet are symmetrically small.
The young creatures are indeed obliged, for a consider-
able time, to be supported when they attempt to walk.
Even afterwards they totter, and always walk upon their
heels. An exact model was afterwards procured of a
Chinese lady’s foot, from which the opposite engraving
has been taken.

Thisartificial diminutivenessof the feet, though it does
not entirely prevent their use, must certainly cramp the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

general growth, and injure the constitution of those who
have been subjected to it. Some of the very lowest
classes of the Chinese, of a race confined chiefly to the
mountains and remote places, have not adopted this un-
natural custom. But the females of this class are held by
the rest in the utmost degree of contempt, and are em-
ployed only in the most menial domestic offices. So in-

423

Chu-san
Islands.

meee eee

veterate 1s the custom, which gives pre-eminence to mu-

tilated before perfect limbs, that the interpreter averred,
and every subsequent information confirmed the asser-
tion, that if, of two sisters, otherwise every way equal,
the one had thus been maimed, while nature was suffered
to make its usual progress in the other, the latter would

be considered as in an abject state, unworthy of asso-

      

Ls f ,, ‘el.
TEA force?
424

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

chusan  clating with the rest of the family, and doomed to per-

Islands.

=== petual obscurity, and the drudgery of servitude.

In forming conjectures upon the origin of so singular
a fashion among the Chinese ladies, it is not very easy
to conceive why this mode should have been suddenly
or forcibly introduced amongst them by the other sex.
Had men been really bent upon confining constantly to
their homes the females of their families, they might
have effected it without cruelly depriving them of the
physical power of motion. No such custom is known in
Turkey or Hindostan, where women are kept in greater
habits of retirement than in China. Opinion, indeed,
more than power, governs the general actions of the hu-
man race ; and so preposterous a practice could be main-
tainéd only by the example and persuasion of those who,
in theirown persons, had submitted to it. Men may have

silently approved, and indirectly encouraged it, as those

of India are supposed to do that much more barbarous
custom of widows burning themselves after the death of
their husbands. But it is not violence, or the apprehen-

sion of corporal suffering, but the horror and disgrace in

consequence of omitting, and the idea of glory arising
from doing, what is considered to be an act of duty, at
the expence of life, which leads to such a sacrifice. In
that instance, ages must have past to ripen prejudices pro-
ductive of a consequence so dreadful: but the pride of
superiority, and the dread of degradation, have been fre-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

quently found sufficient to surmount the common feel-
ings of nature ; and to many women a voluntary con-
straint upon the body and mind is, in some degree, ha-
bitual. They who recollect the fashion of slender waists
in England, and what pains were taken, and sufferings
endured, to excel in that particular, will be somewhat
less surprised at extraordinary efforts made in other in-
stances. Delicacy of limbs and person has, no doubt,
been always coveted by the fair sex, as it has been the
admiration of the other. Yet it could not be the ex-
traordinary instance of such in any one lady, tho in
the most exalted rank, according to the popular story
throughout China, that could induce the rest of her sex
to put at once such violence upon themselves, in order
to resemble her in that respect. The emulation of sur-
passing in any species of beauty, must have animated
vast numbers of all ranks, and have continued through
successive ages, to carry it at last to an excess which
defeats, in fact, its intended purpose. Whatever a lady
may have gained, by the imagined charms of feet de-
creased below the size of nature, is more than counter-
balanced by the injury it does to her health and to her
figure ; for grace is not in her steps, nor animation in her
countenance.

While the party of Englishmen were engaged in gra-
tifying their strong spirit of curiosity with regard to all
the surrounding objects, they themselves were still more

425

Chu-san
Islands.

Fe ——
ETRE
426

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

chusan the occasion of surprise and astonishment in their be-

Islands.

 

 

holders. Few of the people in this place had ever seen
an Englishman before, or indeed any persons differing
remarkably from themselves. They collected now in
multitudes round the strangers, who were attended by a
guard which the governor had ordered for them. The
people, however, pressed close, without any apparent
apprehension of the soldiery. They were familiar; but
without insult, scoff, or uproar. It was then the month
of July, and the crowd added to the sultriness of the
weather. The party being dressed in the European style,
their clothes fitted closely to their bodies, and some kept
tight by ligatures, began to suffer exceedingly from the
heat ; while the surrounding multitude, in habits loosely
hanging round them, felt no sort of inconvenience. The
soldiers endeavoured to keep off the people by gentle
methods, and sometimes by menaces, but did not seem in
the habit of exerting against them the means of coercion
in their hands.

The party took shelter from the heat and crowd in a
temple full of monstrous and grotesque figures of the sup-
posed deities and guardians of the city ; and soon after-
wards returned in sedan chairs, followed by new crowds.
Before they reached the sea side, they were overtaken
by heavy rain, and whirling gusts of wind that nearly
overset the chairs, and forced them to go into a monas-
tery of Chinese priests, where they were hospitably
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

received, and helped to tea, the general beverage served
upon all occasions, and at all hours of the day.

The next morning the party presented themselves so
early at the hall of audience, that the governor was not
yet arrived there. It was a large building, situate at
the end of a paved court, surrounded by galleries. The
hall was open entirely to the roof, which was supported
by several rows of large wooden columns painted red,
and highly varnished, as were all the beams and rafters.
A prodigious number of lamps, or lanterns, of various
shapes and sizes were suspended by silken cords from
the cross beams, and round the columns, decorated with
tassels, varying in form and colour.

Of the lanterns, some were composed of thin silk
gauze, painted or wrought in needle-work, with figures
of birds, insects, flowers, or fruit, and stretched on neat
frames of wood. Some were entirely made of horn.
These were so thin and transparent, that they were taken
at first for glass, a material to which, for this purpose,
the horn is preferred by the Chinese, as cheaper, lighter,
less liable to accident, and, in case of accident, more
easily repaired. Many of them were about two feet in the
diameter, and in the form of a cylinder, with the ends
rounded off, and the edges meeting in the point to which
the suspending cords were tied. Each lantern consisted
of an uniform piece of horn, the joints, or seams, being

rendered invisible, by an art invented by the Chinese;
VOL. I. s H

427

Chu-san
Islands.

 
428

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

chusan among whom the vast number of such lanterns used ix

Islands,

 

===== their dwelling houses and temples, as well as on the

occasions of their festivals and processions, have led to
many trials for improving their construction. The horns
generally employed, are those of sheep and goats. The
usual method of managing them, according to the infor-
mation obtained upon the spot, is to bend them by im-
mersion in boiling water, after which they are cut open
and flattened ; they then easily scale, or are separated into
two or three thin lamina, or plates. In order that these
plates should be made to join, they are exposed to the
penetrating effect of steam, by which they are rendered
almost perfectly soft. In this state, the edges of the pieces
to be joined are carefully scraped and slanted off, so as
that the pieces overlapping each other shall not, together,
exceed the thickness of the plate in any other part. By
applying the edges, thus prepared, immediately to each
other, and pressing them with pincers, they intimately
adhere, and incorporating, form one substance, similar
in every respect to the other parts; and thus uniform
pieces of horn may be prepared, to almost any extent. It
is a contrivance little known elsewhere, however simple
the process appears to be; and perhaps some minute
precautions are omitted in the general description, which
may be essential to its complete success.

The hall of audience furnished also another object of
curiosity, striking at least to strangers. On several tables
"EMBASSY TO CHINA.

were placed in frames, filled with earth, dwarf pines,

oaks, and orange trees bearing fruit. None of them ex-
ceeded, in height, two feet. Some of those dwarfs bore
all the marks of decay from age; and upon the surface
of the soil were interspersed small heaps of stones, which,
in proportion to the adjoining dwarfs, might be termed
rocks. These were honey-combed and moss-grown, as if
untouched for ages ; and thus served to maintain the illu-
sion, and to give an antique appearance to the whole. This
kind of stunted vegetation seemed to be much relished
by the curious in China; and specimens of it were to be
found in every considerable dwelling. To produce them
formed a part of the gardener’s skill, and was an art in-
vented in that country. Beside the mere merit of over-
coming a difficulty, it had that of introducing vegetables
into common apartments, from which, their natural size
must otherwise have excluded them. According to the
usual course of nature, different vegetable productions
attain their perfect statein different periods, and after ac-
quiring different dimensions, and passing through diffe-
rent stages of growth. Thus the cedar of Lebanon, for
example, consumes some years in forming a tall and
woody trunk, with many horizontal branches, before it
emits its colourless flowers, and small cones, for the pur-
pose of reproduction, which is the period of its perfec-
tion; while the hyssop, capable, at most, of raising a
short herbaceous stem, produces its flowers and seeds the

429

Chu-san
Islands.

a r————— a.
REET
430

Chu-san
Islands.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

season after it is sown. Some trees are reproduced, in-
deed, from cuttings of young branches, without the ne-
cessity of sowing any seed; but such cuttings, planted
in the ground, must become trunks themselves in the
usual period of their respective increase, and after ac-
quiring their ordinary size, emit new branches, before
they become adult, or capable of fructification ; but by
the art of dwarfing, an abscinded branch committed to

‘the earth, continues still to fructify, as if it had been

grafted upon a full grown tree, with its juices ripened
for reproduction.

The general method of obtaining vegetable dwarfs is
said to be the following : a quantity of clay, or mold, is
applied to the upper part of the trunk of a tree, from
which a dwarfis intended to be taken, and close to its di-
vision into branches. The mold is to be confined to the
spot by coarse hempen, or cotton, cloth, and to be care-
fully kept moist by water. In consequence of this ap-
plication, continued sometimes above a twelvemonth,
small tender fibres shoot down like roots from the wood
into the mold. The part of the trunk emitting those new
fibres, together with the branch rising immediately above
it, is then to be carefully separated from the rest of the
tree, and planted in new earth, in which the fibres be-
come new roots, while the former branch is now the
stem of the vegetable, thus in some degree transformed.
This operation does not destroy or alter the productive
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

faculty which those parts enjoyed before their separa-
tion from their parentroot. That which, while a branch
of the original tree, bore flowers and fruit, continues to
produce the same, tho no longer supported upon any
stock. The terminal buds of such branches of trees
as are meant to become dwarfs, are torn off; which
circumstance prevents the further elongation of those
branches, and forces other buds and branchlets from the
sides. These branchlets are bent by wires to whatever
form the operator wishes; and when the appearance of
age and decay is meant to be given to a dwarf tree, it is
repeatedly smeared with treacle or molasses, which at-
tracts multitudes of ants, who, in pursuit of those sweet
juices, attack the bark, and, by a gradual corrosion of it,
produce the desired effect. These different processes are
sometimes attempted to be kept secret by the gardeners,
and they vary designedly in the mode of carrying them
on; but the principle on which they are founded is suf-
ficiently apparent from what is related here; and the
contrivance argues ingenuity and perseverance, rather
than the practice does true taste, which consists in as-
sisting nature in its most favourite works ; not in coun-
teracting its operations, or distorting its productions.
While the party were receiving information on the
subjects before them in the hall of audience, their atten-
tion was quickly called to the business that had brought
them there, by the arrival of the governor. He was

431

Chu-san
Islands.

—
4

32

Chu-san
Islands.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

accompanied by a civil magistrate. The latter was dis-

=== tinguished by a square embroidery upon his breast, in

party-coloured silk, in which the figure of an imaginary
bird, the pheenix of the Chinese, was wrought; as was
that of a tiger, on a similar embroidery, on the governor's
robes, denoting his military functions. This latter ani-
mal is not inaptly emblematic of the evils which happen
in the course of that profession; and a bird, in the an-
cient mythology of Europe, denoted wisdom, the proper
quality of magistrates. These persons, with some subor-
dinate officers, seated themselves in a row of arm-chairs,
covered with English scarlet cloth, while the English
were seated on a similar row placed opposite to them.
After an intercourse of civilities, tea was presented ;
and the magistrate then began a speech, which was
uttered with a variety of tones, and accompanied with
gestures, that implied it to have been intended for a dis-
play of eloquence, entirely thrown away, indeed, upon
most of his auditors; but of which the purport was,
that the mode of navigation from province to province
along the coast had been, at all times, the practice
amongst the Chinese, and must, consequently, be the
best to follow in the present instance ; that Chu-san was
only a subsidiary port to the greater one of Ning-poo,
and could supply no pilots, such as were now demanded.
To this speech it was simply answered, that the greater
size, and different construction of the English ships
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

required a different method to be followed in this re-
spect from what usually was practiced; that as Ning-
poo might furnish such pilots as could not be found at

Chu-san, they would immediately proceed thither in

search of them.

This intention alarmed, instantly, the governor. He

said that their departure for Ning-poo would imply, in

the eyes of the Emperor, a dissatisfaction at their recep-

tion at Chu-san; the consequence of which, probably,
would occasion the loss of his office and of his dignity,
pointing to a globular red button, which he wore upon
his bonnet, denoting the second class of magistrates, or

officers, in the public service, of whom there are nine

degrees; except which there 1s, strictly, no rank or dig-
nity in the country.

The governor, to avoid the prossitilley of disgrace,
immediately undertook to find out persons qualified to
conduct the squadron in the desired route. Peremptory
orders were instantly dispatched into the town for all
such persons as were known to have ever been at Tien-
sing. As soon as they appeared, they were severally
examined as to their skill in navigation. Two, at last,

were found, who had traded frequently to that port; but
who had quitted the sea some time. They gave. infor-

mation that the navigation of the Yellow sea was at-
tended with no peculiar difficulty or danger, at least to

vessels of the size that were generally used to traverse it;

433

Chu-san
Islands.
434

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

chusan that there was a bar of sand across the mouth of the

Islands.

 

river Pei-ho, leading to Tien-sing, which prevented
ships, that drew more than seven or eight feet water,
from entering into it; but that within a day or two's
sail of it, there was a safe harbour for larger vessels,
under the island of Mi-a-tau.

These two men were commanded by the governor to
prepare themselves to repair immediately on board the
Clarence, in order to join the ships, and pilot them to
that island, or as near to Tien-sing as they could go.
Both these men were settled, and had families,in Chu -
san. It was contrary to their inclination to go again
to sea. They declared that their absence from home
would be injurious to their private affairs. They pro-
strated themselves before the governor, supplicating him
to excuse them from being employed upon this occa-
sion. The English could not interfere without giving
up all claim to pilots, and thereby risking the safety of
the squadron and the Embassy ; and the governor, de-
claring the Emperor’s will must be obeyed, would listen
to no remonstrance.

While the pilots went hastily to prepare themselves
for this unexpected service, the gentlemen returned on
board the Clarence to make ready for departure. They
were scarcely arrived when they were followed by the
governor, whose visit was influenced, probably, by cu-
riosity, as well as civility. His attention was chiefly
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

struck with the relative height of the masts, the con-
trivances for setting several sails upon them, one above
another, and the dexterity of the sailors in running up
the shrouds. The Chinese vessels have indeed, some-
times, one canvas topsail over the mainsail.~ The latter
1s made of matting, across which, for its support, are
sticks, placed parallel to each other, of the bamboo, a
hollow wood, remarkable, at the same time, for strength
and lightness. Up these sticks the Chinese sailors mount,
when they find it necessary to go aloft ; but they generally
carry on the maneeuvres of navigation upon deck.
During the stay of the Clarence in Chu-san harbour,
one of the persons who came in her was seized with a
violent cholera morbus, in consequence of eating too
freely of some acid fruit he had found on shore. As no
medical gentleman, nor any medicines happened to be
on board, inquiries were made immediately for a Chi-
nese physician to administer, at least, some momentary
relief to the patient, then labouring under excruciating
torments. A physician soon arrived ; who, without ask-
ing any questions about the symptoms or origin of the
complaint, with great solemnity felt the pulse of the left
arm of his patient, by applying gently his four fingers
to it; then raising one of them, he continued to press
with the other three, afterwards with two, and, at last,
with only one, moving his hand for several minutes

435

Chu-san
Islands.

———— eee

backwards and forwards along the wrist, as if upon the

YOL. 1. 3. 1
436

Chu-san
Islands.

EMBASSY TO CHINA,

keys of a harpsichord, as far towards the elbow as the

=== pulse could be distinguished. He remained the whole

time silent, with eyes fixed, but not upon the patient,
and acting as if he considered every distinct disease to
be attended with a pulsation of the artery peculiar to
itself, and distinguishable by an attentive practitioner.
He pronounced the present complaint to arise from the
stomach, as indeed was obvious from the symptoms, of
which it is very probable he had information before he
came ; and which soon yielded to appropriate medicines,
supplied, at the patient’s request, by him.

As soon as the pilots arrived on board the Clarence,
she stood out of Chu-san harbour; and, in her way to
join the Lion, came close to an island, called that of
Sarah Galley in the chart, when the wind dying away,
she drifted into an eddy, in which she was whirled
round, as upon a centre, several times, with much im-
petuosity. At every revolution the bowsprit was with-
in a few feet of striking against a steep rock that rose
perpendicularly out of the sea. The pilots, who had
been in the same situation frequently before, were so
far useful on this occasion, as to prevent any alarm being
taken, by their assurance that no danger was to be appre-
hended ; and, in fact, the tide soon carried the brig away
from the whirlpool ; and she anchored, the same night,
off the northern point of Lowang. The following day
she passed through the straits, marked Gough's passage
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

in the chart, and joined the Lion at her place of anchor-
age, before described.

During her absence the deputation mentioned at Chu-
san, and another from the governor of the province, to
the Embassador, had been on board the Lion. Presents
of provisions were brought by both; and invitations
given for his Excellency and his suite to partake of en-
tertainments on shore, which he declined: alleging the
necessity of the immediate prosecution of his voyage
towards the Emperor's court.

437

Chu-san
Islands.

——eeee
 ————
438

Navigation
through the
Yellow sea.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

CHAPTER X.

NAVIGATION THROUGH THE YELLOW SEA. EMBASSADOR'S
: ENTRANCE INTO THE RIVER LEADING TO TIEN-SING.

~ T'uar part of the coast of China, along which the
squadron had already sailed, from the eastern limits of
Tung-quin to the Chu-san islands, measures upwards of
one thousand nautical miles, each about a sixth longer
than a common English mile. What remained of the
Chinese coast from hence to the port nearest to Pekin, in
the gulf to which that capital gives its name, is of an
extent still more considerable. But at Chu-san the squa-
dron was arrived at the utmost boundary of recorded
European navigation. The sea from thence, for about
ten degrees of latitude, and six of longitude, was utterly
unknown, except to those who dwelt in the neighbour-
hood of its shores. Into this sea are received the waters
of the great Whang-ho, or Yellow river of China. This
river wafts, in its long and circuitous course, such vast
quantities of yellowish mud, that it takes, from that cir-
cumstance, and communicates to the adjoining sea, the
particular name by which they are both distinguished.
The Yellow sea is bounded by China, Tartary, and the

peninsula of Corea. It was no immaterial advantage
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

derived from the Embassy, that it furnished an oppor-
tunity of exploring, without risk, so considerable a tract,
under the guidance of those who had frequently passed
through it. Of the two pilots obtained for this purpose
at Chu-san, one was received on board the Lion ; the
other was sent to the Hindostan. Tho forced upon this
service, they appeared ready to perform it, as well as
they were able. - When, indeed, an European pilot ar-
rives upon the deck of a vessel, on board of which his
assistance is required, he takes at once the helm, and
exercises his functions like a dictator among the Romans ;
while all other authority is suspended, or exerted only
to enforce obedience to his absolute commands. But the
Chinese, in the present instance, were too much awed
by the novelty of their situation, in the midst of strangers;
to be forward in interfering. They were, however, at:
tentive to the preparations made for the prosecution of the
voyage, and to all the manceuvres of the ships: Each of
them brought with him a small marine compass; but
they had neither charts, nor any instrument for ascer-
taining latitudes. The local experience, it is true, of
skilful pilots is deemed sufficient in regard to coasts vi-
sited by them frequently. It is not uncommon, how-
ever, on board Chinese vessels to have maps or sketches
of their intended route, with the neighbouring head-
lands cut or engraved upon the back of empty gourds,
the round form of which corresponds, in some sort, to

459

Navigation
through the:

Yellow sea.
440 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Navigation the figure of the earth. Such a similitude may have

through the : :

Yellow sea. sometimes contributed to render those sketches some-

~ what less erroneous; but the advantage is accidental ;
for neither the astronomers nor navigators of China have
varied much from the first rude notions entertained
among mankind that the whole earth was one flat sur-
face ; in the middle of which the Chinese took for grant-
ed that their own empire was situate: thence empha-
tically styled by them, the emprre of the middle ; all other
countries surrounding it being, in their estimation, com-
paratively small, and lying towards the edge or margin
of the earth ; beyond which all must be a precipitate
and dreadful void.

This ignorance of the earth’s form precluded any at-
tempt to ascertain the latitude or longitude of the diffe-
rent parts of it by observations of the heavenly bodies,
for the improvement of navigation. Even among other
nations, where philosophers had made discoveries of
importance, they seldom were applied to useful purposes,
until the great inventress of social arts, necessity, had sti-
mulated to extraordinary exertions. Notwithstanding the
science of the Greeks, and the fertility as well as acuteness
of theirminds, they never proceeded to the length of ascer-
taining, with the assistance of an instrument, the position
of a ship at sea: satisfied that they could, by the observa-
tion, in the day time, of some part of the coast of the
Mediterranean, in which they generally sailed, or of the
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

many islands scattered through it, and, in the night time,
of the stars, obtain such information as they wanted in
that respect. The Chinese, indeed, enjoy a similar ad-
vantage, as their seas resemble the Mediterranean, by the
narrowness of their limits, and the numerous islands

with which every part of them is studded. It is to be

observed, likewise, that the art of navigation, improved
among Europeans, dates its origin nearly from the same
period when their passions, or their wants, impelled
them to undertake long voyages over the boundless
ocean.

As to the compass, it 1s, among the Chinese, in uni-
versal use. With them the magnetic needle is seldom
made to exceed an inch in length, and is less than a line
in thickness. It is poised with great nicety, and is re-
markably sensible; by which is meant, that it appears
to move at the least change of position, towards the east
or west, of the box in which it is suspended ; tho, in
fact, the nature of the magnet, and the perfection of the
machine containing it, consist in the needle’s privation
of all motion, or its continuing to point always steadily
towards the same portion of the heavens, however ra-
pidly may be whirled the compass- -box, or other objects
surrounding it. This steadiness, in the Chinese compass,
is accomplished by a particular contrivance, as observed
by Mr. Barrow. ‘¢ A piece of thin copper is strapped
‘“ round the centre of the needle. This copper is riveted

441

Navigation
through the
Yellow sea.

 
442 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Navigation ** by its edges to the upper part of a small hemispherical
through the

Yellow sea. “¢ cup, of the same metal, turned downwards. The cup,
so inverted, serves as a socket to receive a steel pivot

€¢

 

cc

€¢

¢ rising from a cavity made into a round piece of light
““ wood, or cork, which thus forms the compass-box.
¢« The surfaces of the socket and pivot, intended to meet
‘“ each other, are perfectly polished, to avoid, as much as
possible, all friction. The cup has a proportionably
‘“ broad margin, which, beside adding to its weight,
«« tends from its horizontal position to keep the centre of
gravity, in all situations of the compass, nearly in co-
incidence with the centre of suspension. The cavity
in which the needle is thus suspended, is in form cir-
cular, and 1s little more than sufficient to receive the
‘“ needle, cup, and pivot. Over this cavity is placed a thin
“ pieceof transparent talc, which preventsthe needle from
being affected by any motion of the external air; but
permits the apparent motion of the former to be easily
‘“ observed. The small and short needle of the Chinese
‘¢ has a material advantage over those of the usual size in
““ Europe, with regard to the inclination or dip towards
the horizon ; which, in the latter, requires that one
extremity of the needle should be made so much hea-
vier than the other, as will counteract the magnetic
““ attraction. This being different in different parts of
‘“ the world, the needle can only be accurately true at
¢¢ the place for which it had been constructed. But in

€¢

~

£¢

€¢

Ec

cc

cc

€¢

cc

¢

-~

€c
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

““ short and light needles, suspended after the Chinese
‘““ manner ; the weight, below the point of suspension,
¢¢ is more than sufficient to overcome the magnetic power
‘ of the dip or inclination, in all situations of the globe;
¢“ and therefore such needles will never deviate from
‘« their horizontal position.”

Upon the upper surface of the box are drawn, as ap-
pears in the annexed engraving, several concentric lines
or circles, according to the various sizes of the compass-
box. This is seldom less than four inches in diameter.
The circles are distinguished by different Chinese cha-
racters. Eightare marked on the first or innermost circle;
four of which denote the cardinal points of east, west,

 

443

Navigation
through the
Yellow sea.

———
414

Navigation
through the

Yeilow sea.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

north, and south ; and four the bisecting intermediate
points. The same eight characters also signify eight equal
subdivisions of the natural day, or space during which
the earth revolves upon its own axis in pursuing its course
round the sun, every subdivision being of three hours.
The characters denoting each of these are so placed as
to point out nearly the position of the sun at those diffe-
rent portions of the day. beginning at sunrise, of which
the character means also the eastern portion of the hea-
vens. With this first circle of eight divisions agrees the
first compass, which is said to have appeared in Europe
in the beginning of the fourteenth century ; and which,
by subsequent subdivisions, was improved into thirty-
two points, as seamen became more expert and accurate
in observation.

In another circle of the Chinese compass are twenty-
four divisions, in each of which a character is inserted,
which marks at the same time, a twenty-fourth portion
of the heavens, and a twenty-fourth part of the natural
day. According to this division, each point, or twenty-
fourth portion of the compass, comprehends an integral
number of fifteen degrees out of three hundred and sixty,
into which all circles of the celestial sphere have been
agreed to be divided, probably since that early period
when the number of days, in which the sun performed
his apparent course, was supposed to be three hundred
and sixty.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

The remaining circles round the Chinese compass
contain the characters of the cycle of sixty years, by
which this nation regulates its chronology, and other
characters expressive of their philosophical and mytho-
logical doctrines, to which they are so attached as to
render this instrument as familiar to the people ashore,
as 1t 1s at sea.

The nature and the cause of the qualities of the mag-
net have, at all times, been subjects of contemplation
among the Chinese. Their theory, in this instance, as
in many others, is the reverse of that of European phi-
losophers. It is obvious that while the magnetic needle,
suspended by its centre, points at one extremity to the
north, it necessarily looks, at the other, to the south ;
but each retains its own polarity ; and, if turned round
by force, will resume, when left at liberty, its original
station opposite its respective pole. Thus the power,
which principally attracts the needle, may be supposed
to reside toward either or both portions of the earth. In
Europe it has been thought that the needle has its chief
tendency to the north pole; but in China the south alone
is considered as containing the attractive power. The
Chinese name of the compass is ting-nan-ching, or needle
pointing to the south ; and a distinguishing mark is fixed
~ on the magnet’s southern pole, as in European compasses
upon the northern one.

The Emperor Caung-shee, grandfather to the present
VOL. I. 3 K

445

Navigation
through the

Yellow sea.
446 EMBASSY TO GHINA.

Navigation reigning sovereign, who was in the habit of committing
through the

Yelowsea. to paper his observations on a variety of subjects, and

who having encouraged learned missionaries at his
court, had not been inattentive to their philosophical
opinions, writes on this occasion, *“ I have heard Euro-
‘“« peans say, that the needle obeys the north. In our
6 oldest records it is said, that it turns to the south ; but
‘« as neither have explained the cause, I see little to be
‘“ gained in adopting one opinion in preference to the
¢ other. The ancients, however, are first in date ; and
‘“ the farther I proceed, the more I am convinced of
““ their knowledge of the operations and mechanism of
‘“ nature. Moreover, as all action grows languid, and
‘“ nearly 1s suspended towards the north, it is less likely
““ that the virtue, which gives motion to the magnetic
‘“ needle, should proceed from that quarter.”

An allusion is made likewise to this property of the
magnet, in the books of Chinese mythology, or fabulous
portion of the history of that empire. It is there related,
that in the reign of Chin-nong, a rebel, of the name of
Choo-yoo, had found, in order the better to elude or con-
found his enemies, the means of creating, at his plea-
sure, thick fogs, and even utter darkness; to prevent
the effect of which, the emperor invented a machine,
consisting of a figure standing in a chariot, with one arm
stretched out, and pointing always to the southward ;
which circumstance enabled the imperial troops to follow
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the proper track for discovering and overthrowing the
rebel.

The Emperor Caung-shee was well aware, however,
that the needle does not always point directly, either to
the south or north ; and that this declination 1s not the
same in all countries, nor invariable in the same place ;
but the sphere of Chinese navigation is too limited to
have afforded experience or observation for forming any
system of laws supposed to govern the variation of the
needle. Their knowledge of the general polarity of the
magnet answers every purpose, in practice, to that na-
tion ; and their researches upon most subjects seem to
have been directed chiefly, and to be too often circum-
scribed, by the immediate prospect of utility resulting
from the continuance of every particular pursuit.

The Chinese pilots had soon occasion to perceive how
much more essential the perfection of the compass was
to the bolder navigators of Europe, than to themselves,
as the commanders of the Lion and Hindostan, trusting
to that instrument, stood out directly from the land into
the open sea.

The track of this voyage is laid down in the chart of
the Yellow sea (being No. IV. of the large volume of ac-
companying plates.) On this chart, as well as in the ge-
neral chart (No. I.) of the route from Europe, and return
to it, is marked, beside the soundings, the state of the ma-
rine barometer, and of Fahrenheit’s thermometer, in the

447

Navigation
through the
Yellow sea.

 
448 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Navigation shade, every day at noon. This precaution prevents the
through the . . . . .
Yellowsea. necessity of inserting those observations in the body of

 

this work ; but other details of so new a navigation as
that of the Yellow sea cannot, with propriety, be omitted.
The squadron entered into it on Tuesday the ninth of
July. The weather was dark and cloudy. A thick fog
covered the horizon. A heavy swell came from the east-
south-east. The departure, or point from whence the
progress of the squadron was to be computed, was the isle
called Patch-cock, lying in twenty-nine degrees twenty-
two minutes north latitude, and one hundred and twenty
degrees fifty-two minutes east longitude. The ships,
when sailing in six fathoms water, drew up the mud in
such quantities, that each left in her wake a streak of
yellowish brown for near half a mile: a circumstance,
which to persons not apprized of it, would be apt to
create alarm, lest it should denote a sudden shoaling of
the water.

Wednesday, the tenth of July. Thick, hazy weather,
and a constant heavy swell from the eastward. The
wind, during the former and middle part of the day,
blew from the north-west to west. In the latter part, the
weather nearly calm. In the morning, two islands were
perceived, which the pilots called Chin-san, and Shoo-
tong-yeng, bearing north-west by west, distant eight or
nine leagues. Soundings from thirty-two to thirty-seven

fathoms; bottom fine sand.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Thursday, the eleventh of July. Light airs and calms

449

Navigation
through the

during the first part of the day. In the evening, a breeze Yellow sea.

sprung up from the southward. At five in the morning,
two new islands, small and rocky, were discovered to
the westward, seven or eight leagues distant. The pilots
called those islands Pa-cha-san and Te-chong. Sound-
ings at noon thirty-six fathoms.

Friday, the twelfth of July. In the beginning of this
nautical day, the wind was at south to south-east, with a
very thick fog. The water shoaled almost suddenly from
thirty-six to seventeen fathoms. The bottom, grey sand,
with black specks. The pilots observed, that the squa-
dron was then opposite the Chinese province of Kiang-
nan; and that in the neighbourhood were large shoals, the
approach to which was announced by the bottom being
sandy. In the morning, the fog became so thick that it
was scarcely possible to see from one end of the Lion to
the other. It may be difficult to explain why a shallow
sea should generally have the atmosphere over it foggy ;
but the fact has been observed likewise upon the banks
of Newfoundland, and other places, covered with little
water. Another circumstance took place, not, perhaps,
more easily to be accounted for. In the shallowest parts,
but where no land was visible above water, swarms of
the dragon fly suddenly appeared about the ships, which,
in deeper water, quickly disappeared.

Efforts were made to keep the ships together during

 

 
450

Navigation
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Yeilow sea.

 

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the fog, by firing guns in the way of fog signals; not-
withstanding which, the Hindostan was separated this
day from the rest of the squadron. Shortly afterwards,
she perceived three large Chinese vessels, which, by
choice or accident, had deviated from the usual system
amongst them of sailing near the coast. The soundings
hereabouts were found by all the squadron to vary so
frequently and suddenly, that notwithstanding the pre-
sence of the pilots, it was thought expedient to proceed
with uncommon caution, and even sometimes to lie to.
The soundings throughout this sea never exceeded forty-
two fathoms. In the deepest water, the bottom was
mostly muddy ; and sand was found usually where the
water shoaled. The pilots observed, that the thickest
fogs accompanied the south-east winds, which lasted ge-
nerally four or five days at a time.

Saturday, the thirteenth of July. The wind south-east,
and weather thick, with very few clear intervals. The
lead was cast every hour to ascertain the soundings.

Sunday, the fourteenth of July. The wind continued
from the same quarter. This morning, the fog being fora
time dispelled, several land birds appeared, and sea weed
and bamboos were seen floating upon the water ; together
with other indications of being near land. A number
of junks, or Chinese vessels, were likewise perceived
steering different ways.

In the separate route of the Hindostan, she saw this
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

day a small square rigged European vessel. A Chinese
junk in the European seas would not have occasioned
more surprise, had not an intimation been given from
Macao, that the commissioners had sent from thence, be-
fore the squadron arrived in the neighbourhood of that
place, a vessel with dispatches for the Embassador. It
was the Endeavour brig, commanded by Captain Proc-
tor. She had also on board a young man who could
speak Spanish and Chinese; and meant to offer his
services as an additional interpreter to the Embassy. The
Endeavour belonged to the East India Company, and
had been employed, under the command of a gentleman
of science of the name of M‘Cluer, in a voyage of ob-
servation and discovery thro the great eastern Archipe-
lago, comprehended in what are called the Chinese seas,
according to the liberal plan pursued, in many instances,
by the India Company, of attending to the promotion of
knowledge, in the midst of its commercial undertakings.
Captain M‘Cluer was considered as a diligent and ca-
pable observer. He had either visited formerly the Pe-
lew islands, or had formed an exalted idea of the climate,
and of the disposition of the inhabitants, from the very
interesting account which has been published of them
by Mr. Keate, from'the materials furnished by Captain
Wilson. Captain M‘Cluer determined to seek for that
happiness in the Pelew islands which he considered, no
doubt, as less attainable in a larger and more compli-

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152

Navigation
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Yellow sea.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

cated, but, perhaps, a more corrupt, society. He had
this project in contemplation for some time; and pro-
vided whatever he thought might be conducive to his
comfortin his new residence. On his arrival there, he
gave up his vessel to the gentleman next in command to
him, and wrote a letter to his employers; assigning,
among other reasons, for the step he had taken, the de-
sire he felt of distinguishing himself’ by a conduct of
which few examples had previously been afforded. He
was well received by the natives of the Pelew islands,
and honourable distinctions, with considerable authority
amongst them, offered to him, which he declined: con-
tenting himself with a moderate portion of land allotted
to him; and ‘better pleased to benefit the country of his
adoption; by the’ advice which his superior knowledge
and experience might enable him to give, than to exer-
cise any command amongst them. Such a procedure
was certainly as likely to secure to him the permanent
attachment of the people, as the assumption of power
would be to excite, in the course of time, jealousy and
discontent. ' It is far, however, from being certain that

no accident will happen to disturb the harmony subsist-

ing at present between this hospitable race and their
new guest; and that no’ change will take place in his
own disposition, recalling those affections and partiali-
ties which attach most men to their original connections
and ancient habits.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Captain Proctor confirmed, in many instances, the fa-
vourable accounts given of the Pelew islands by Captain
Wilson. So far from a ferocity of character, or even
dislike of strangers, the inhabitants entertain those who
come among them with the utmost kindness, and enrol
some of the principal, as they did Captain Wilson and
Captain Proctor, in the list of their nobility. The latter,
who had visited some of the neighbouring parts of New
Guinea, where, on the contrary, strangers are generally
treated with inhumanity, is inclined to attribute so dif-
ferent a behaviour more to a sense of resentment for acts
of treachery and cruelty exercised against them by fo-
reign adventurers arriving upon their coasts, than to the
predominance of bad qualities naturally inherent in their
own character.

The Endeavour, which had called at Chu-san, brought
from thence such a pilot as was first offered to the squa-
dron. He conducted her close to the Chinese shore with
little danger to the Endeavour, as she drew but a few
feet water. She passed near the island of Tsung-ming,
opposite the river Kiang. This island, unlike those of
Chu-san, is very low, and, to appearance, formed of earth
brought down by the current of the river; between the
mouth of which and the island, the water is extremely
shallow. The land seemed to be gaining upon the water
very fast; and it is not unworthy of notice, that in the

map preserved in the ducal palace of Venice, supposed
VOL. I. 3 L

453

Na vig ation
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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

to be taken, (as far as relates to China) in great measure,
from the draught made by the celebrated traveller of that
city, in the thirteenth century, Marco Polo, no traces are
found of the island Tsung-ming, tho those of Chu-san,
not much to the southward of it, are distinctly marked.
Whether it was at that period as yet so small, as not to be
thought worthy of being noticed, or so low, as to be pass-
ed by him unobserved, cannot now be ascertained. If that
island had, in fact, increased in any considerable degree
in the space of five centuries only, it must have under-
gone, previously to that period, changes of an opposite
kind. And itis not difficult to conceive that soft earth,
gradually thrown out from the mouth of a great river, and
deposited where the further impulse of the stream was re-
sisted by therising tide, might be liable to be put again in
motion, and washed suddenly away by the force of some
mighty torrent overcoming the obstacle that had been
formed by the same river in its usual and gentler course.

In the neighbourhood of Tsung-ming, and along the
coast of China, Captain Proctor met several small junks,
with mandarines on board, cruizing about, by order of
the Emperor, to find out and welcome the Embassador,
as well as to conduct him into port; but they seldom
went out of the depth of two fathoms, not aware that the
Lion, which had his Excellency on board, drew about
double that quantity of water: so little had the people
here any just idea of the size, or rather the construction,
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

of English ships. Those of China, tho often of very
considerable bulk, are more flat bottomed even than
most Dutch vessels.

The Lion kept to the eastward of the track of the
Hindostan, and nearer, tho not in sight of, the western
coast of the peninsula of Corea, which stretches from
Tartary in a southern direction. The peninsula of Shan-
tung extends from the main continent of China so far to
the eastward, as to reduce the breadth of the Yellow sea
to forty leagues, or thereabouts, between the eastern ex-
tremity of Shan-tung and the Spates shore of the pen-
insula of Coren. diay |

Both divisions of the squadron had, on the fifteenth,

the wind from the southward, attended, part of the day,

with a fog. While it was clear, the Hindostan perceived
a small cone-shaped island, called by the pilot Ka-té-noo ;
and, on the next day, came in sight of the rugged land
of Shan-tung promontory, as well as of a small island to
thesouthward of it. At this place, a slight current was ob-
served to set to the northward. The longitude here was
found by the mean of several observations of the distance
between the sun and moon, to be one hundred and twen-
ty-two degrees forty minutes east. The observed latitude
was thirty-five degrees ten minutes north ; from hence the
Lion steered north by west by compass, until she got into
the latitude of thirty-six degrees twenty minutes north.
The water then began rapidly toshoal from forty tosixteen,

455

Navigation
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Yellow sea.
456

Navigation
through the

Yellow sea.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

fourteen, and twelve fathoms, there being a difference
of two fathoms every quarter of an hour; the bottom
sandy. Such a sudden shoaling of the water naturally
occasioned apprehension. It was, however, calmed
more by the reports of the brigs, which were kept going
ahead, and constantly heaving the lead, than by the as-
sertions of the pilots, whose ignorance of the English
language made them sometimes pass for being ignorant
of their business.

- On the sixteenth the island which the Hindostan ob-
served to the north-east, appeared at the same time from
the Lion (being to the eastward) to the north-west. The
ships and brigs all joined on Wednesday the seventeenth.
They perceived on that day two headlands or capes,
which, together with the island just mentioned, are
likely to be the first lands made by ships navigating di-
rectly from the southward towards the gulf of Pekin. It
was thought, therefore, by the commander of the ex-
pedition, desirable to ascertain their situation with ex-
actness, and to give each a name, as appears in the chart
now published with this work. These three points of
land, with their latitudes and longitudes, are as follow :

Cis : 1. [122° 12'] by observ. of sun and moon.
ape Macartney ~~ 16" 54’ 122 20 [by time piece.

Tol 129 15 by sun and moon.

122 23 [by (ime piece.

122 9 |by sun and moon.

122 17 [by time piece.

Cape Gower - 5p ry

East Longitude.
A iitiimnts

frm

North Latitude of

Staunton’s Island 36 47
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Cape Macartney, when bearing from north-north-east
to north-west, has a remarkable appearance of six point-
ed peaks. Within this cape was an inlet, in which several
small vessels were descried at anchor. Near Cape Gower
is a reef of rocks running out from a neck of land. The
ground being foul, it was deemed prudent not to ap-
proach too near; but a snug harbour appeared to be
within the low point, the entrance to which was between
Cape Gower and the reef already mentioned. A great
number of vessels were perceived within the harbour,
behind which was seen a town of considerable extent.

Thursday the eighteenth of July. The wind forthe most
part easterly, and the weather foggy. In the course of
the afternoon, the squadron passed another harbour,
which was spacious, and contained several large junks.
At this time the northernmost extremity of Shan-tung
promontory bore north by west about eight leagues.
When seen from this situation the highest and most
projecting point of land appears in the form of an ob-
late cone, with its vertex elongated, as if on the summit
were erected a spire or a pagoda; and it was familiarly
compared to a mandarine’s bonnet. Between Cape Ma-
cartney and the above point, the coast in general 1s bold ;
and the mountains appear to extend far into the country.
They were interspersed with beautiful vallies along the
shore, highly cultivated, with inlets fit for the reception and
securityof flatbottomed vessels, such asthosz of the Chinese.

457

Navigation
through the
Yellow sea,

 
458 ‘EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Navigation ~~ Friday the nineteenth of July. The wind from east-
Eig south-east to north; the weather hazy. The squadron
now considering itself as sufficiently clear of the Shan-
tung peninsula, and having rounded the extreme eastern
land of China, steered west by north. At midnight there
was so very thick a fog that it was thought advisable to
lie to. When, in the course of the following morning,
it cleared up, the ships and brigs found themselves
close upon a small rocky island, bearing south-east half
east two miles, and from a point upon the continent
within it south-east half east five miles. Here is an ap-

pearance of a convenient harbour, at least for vessels

 

not drawing much water. Soundings, three miles from
the shore, sixteen and eighteen fathoms; bottom soft
mud.

The weather being now perfectly clear, the squadron
made sail and stood to the westward, in a course parallel to
the coast, at the distance of five or six miles. From the
small island, last mentioned, the westernmost visible point
of land is a remarkable cone-shaped hill, which terminates
arange of broken mountains, distant from the island about
eight leagues west by south. Part of this coast is rocky and
barren, but in general it is level cultivated ground, termi-
nating in a sandy beach. As soon as this last conical point
was oiled by the squadron, a second came in sight, hav-
ing near it a small hill, with a knob upon its top. Between
these two points a course was steered nearly due west,
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

within two or three miles of the shore, in seven or eight
fathoms water. Vast crowds of people were here assem-
bled on the rising grounds to see the European vessels
pass. Beyond the last point, the squadron got into a deep
bay, which the pilots were understood to say was the
harbour they had mentioned before they left Chu-san, as
fit to receive the squadron. But it was soon discovered,
by the means of the people, whom curiosity had at-
tracted from the shore, that this was the bay of Ki-san-
seu; and that the harbour of Mi-a-tau was in an island
distant fifteen leagues farther to the westward, and dif-
fering in latitude a few miles only to the northward.
The bay of Ki-san-seu is spacious, and well sheltered
from every wind, except from east-north-east to east-
south-east, being the direction of the entrance into the
bay. It isshut in to the northward by a group of ten or
twelve small islands, and a number of large rocks; and
is inclosed by the continent on the western and southern
sides. This bay extends from east to west at least ten
miles, and nearly as much from north to south. Within
it are two harbours; one behind a high bluff point,
called Zeu-a-tau, which has four fathoms depth of wa-
ter, and had in it a great number of Chinese vessels; the
other behind a small projecting tongue of land, on the
south-east side of the bay, in the mouth of a river called
Ya-ma-tao. The number of junks perceived in almost
every bay along this coast, indicates a considerable inter-

459

Navigation
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Yellow sea.

 

 
460

Navigation
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Yellow sea.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

change of commodities between this and other provinces
of China. Such a circumstance, beside adding to the
population by the many who are necessarily employed
in carrying on this intercourse, introduces more of the
movement and bustle of busy life, than 1s generally ob-
served among the quiet tho industrious cultivators of the
soil. Across the mouth of the river Ya-ma-tao is a bar,
over which are only two fathoms and a half of water,
but immediately without it, are four and five fathoms:
the width of the river, from a quarter to half a mile.
The country immediately behind the bay, tho not
very mountainous, has yet a barren aspect ; and the in-
habitants bear strong marks of poverty. Between Zeu-
a-tau point and one of the islands to the eastward, form-
ing the group already mentioned, there is a narrow pas-
sage, lying directly north and south, leading out of
the bay of Ki-san-seu, and through which there are
eight, nine, and ten fathoms water close to the shore on
either side; but near: the eastern islands of the same
group, there are small sandy keys, or banks, which
are observed only when they are very near, as they
are almost even with the surface of the water. The
bluff point, or cape, of Zeu-a-tau is the extremity of a
small, but bold and rugged peninsula, stretching to the
northward. Along the centre of the great peninsula of
Shan-tung, in the direction of east and west, ran a
high range of mountains, the sides of which consist in
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

great measure of a perpendicular and naked mass of
granite.

A day was consumed in the bay of Ki-san-seu ; but
on Sunday the twenty-first, the squadron, after being
provided with new pilots, stood out through the passage
between cape Zeu-a-tau and the islands, keeping nearer
to the former than to the latter. A little to the westward
of the most northern point of Zeu-a-tau, was a bay, into
which several vessels were seen entering. And upon the
original map of China, on a very large scale, constructed
with great apparent accuracy, by the missionaries in the
last century, and now in the possession of a great and
revered Personage, a convenient and safe harbour is here
laid down.

The course, after clearing the east point, was north-
north-west for two miles; then north-west by north,
north-west, and west, keeping the coast well on board
all the way. After continuing thus till the evening, the
squadron hauled round a projecting headland, very si-
milar to that of the entrance of the bay of Ki-san-seu.
Here also all the rising grounds were covered with spec-
tators. The hills behind the coast, along which the
ships sailed this day, had a peculiar character, and ap-
peared to be rather the effect of art than of nature. Their
sides were rounded off as with the spade; and on the
summit of each stood a small heap of earth, in form of a

barrow, or ancient burying place.
VOL. 1, 3s M

461

Navigation
through the
Yellow sea.
462 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Nog After having hauled round this last projecting head-

velowsea. land, another bluff point appeared due west from the
former, and about eight miles distant from it. The shore
between those two points formed a kind of bay, called
Ten-choo-foo bay, which is open to the east and west ;
but partly sheltered in the northern quarter by groups
of small islands, scattered about at different distances,
from five miles to twice as many leagues, off the main
shore. In the large chart last mentioned, those islands
appear to extend two-thirds of the breadth of the sea
in this part, leaving only a strait between the opposite
projecting point of the province of Lea-tung, and the
northernmost cluster of those islands. Among these
were two islets, remarkable for the regularity of their
form as truncated cones, and looking like glass-houses
rising from the sea. They were, most probably, pro-
duced by the explosion from volcanos of matter of such
light weight, and impelled with so moderate a force, as
to continue where first it fell ; and thus, gradually, to
rise into a heap, assuming the regular figure just men-
tioned.

The squadron came to anchor, in seven fathoms water,
in the bay of Ten-choo-foo, within two or three miles
north-east of the city of that name. The anchorage was
foul, with hard ground and shells. The Clarence was
therefore immediately sent to examine the neighbouring
harbour of Mi-a-tau, mentioned as a place of safety for
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the squadron. In the mean time, its arrival and purpose
were announced by an officer to the governor of Ten-
choo-foo. The termination of this name denotes, in the
Chinese language, that it was a city of the first order,
having several middling and small towns within its ju-
risdiction. It was built on a rising ground, and appeared
large from the ships’ decks; and was fortified by a strong
wall round it.

While Europe yet was barbarous, and individuals
collected together for the safety of their persons and pro-
perties, the expence and difficulty of surrounding towns
with fortifications, introduced, probably, the custom of

building houses consisting of several stories, or floors,

one above another, in order that the extent of the pro-
tecting wall might be the less considerable. The state of
society must have been different in this part of China
when the fortifications of Ten-choo-foo were erected ;
for they included no small proportion of ground not oc-
cupied by buildings; and either this city was expected

to increase in houses to a number it has not yet attained ;

or the vacant space was allotted for military or other
exercises or occupations.

The bay, or rather road, of Ten-choo-foo, not only is
open to the eastward and westward, but is not well shel-
tered from the northward, the Mi-a-tau islands being too
distant to break off much of either wind or swell from

that quarter. The anchoring ground consists, in great

463

Navigation
through the
Yellow sea.

 
464 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Nv part, of hard sharp rocks; and at about a mile and a
vellowsea. quarter from the shore, is a dangerous reef, covered at
a high water, extending nearly a mile east and west, round
which the water shoals so suddenly as to render any
approach to it very perilous. At Ten-choo-foo is con-
structed a kind of dock, or bason, for vessels to load or
discharge their cargoes. The entrance into it is between
two piers, and is from thirty to forty feet in width. The
ground near the sea coast is richly cultivated, and rises
in a gentle ascent, which is terminated by high, broken,
and barren mountains apparently granitical.
The passage between Ten-choo-foo and the Mi-a-tau
islands is called, in the chart, the strait of Mi-a-tau.
The rise and fall of the tides in this strait are about
seven feet. The flood tide runs east towards the sea,
from whence it naturally should flow. The ebb, on the
contrary, which properly is the reflux of the water into
the sea, is here carried from it to the westward, into the
gulf of Pekin. This extraordinary phenomenon does
not arise from the position of the Mi-a-tau islands, whose
size bears too small a proportion to the large surface of
the sea, out of which they rise like so many points, to
impede the progress, or change the direction, of the tide.
A consideration of the northern boundaries of the Yel-
low sea may lead to a more satisfactory explanation. A
strong tide, setting from the southward through the pas-
sage between the eastern promontory of Shan-tung and
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the peninsula of Corea, continues its northerly and impe-
tuous course till impeded by the coast of Lea-tung. This
resistance forces it along that coast to the westward, and

to the gulf of Pekin, where it follows the smooth sandy

beach in a curve direction, according to the shape of the
gulf, ‘until it arrives at Ten-choo-foo, with a degree of
strength sufficient to counteract, and even overcome, the
weakened efforts of the eddy tide, setting round the pro-
jecting point of the Shan-tung province.

As soon as the governor of Ten-choo-fco was in-
formed that the Embassador was on board the Lion, he
sent to him a present, consisting of fresh provisions and
fruit ; and afterwards came on board to visit him. The
governor was attended by a great number of persons; one
of whom having had occasion to speak to him as he was
passing along the ship’s deck, immediately threw him-
self upon his knees, and, in that posture, communicated
his business, to the great surprise of the English specta-
tors: a surprise that was heightened by the undisturbed
countenance of the governor, as if accustomed to be ac-
costed in that manner. This instance of the extreme
distance between ranks did not seem, however, to pro-
ceed either from any particular haughtiness on the
one part, or abjectness on the other; but indicated
the respective disposition, brought about by forms, es-
tablished for inducing habits of subordination in so-
ciety. Such are considered, indeed, in China, as con-

465

Navigation
through the
Yellow sea.

 
466

Navigation
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Yellow sea.

EET,

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

tributing more effectually to the prevention of tumult
and disorder, than does the dread of punishment in
other countries. Tho the meeting, even of equals, be-

gins with much ceremony and mutual demonstrations

of respect, yet these very soon give way to a free and
familiar intercourse. The governor of Ten-choo-foo, in
his interview with the Embassador, testified not only
great politeness, but much ease and affability ; and it
was apparent upon this occasion, as well as from what
was observed at Chu-san, that the solemnity of behaviour
attributed, in many accounts of this country, as a general
character, to the Chinese, was only an appearance as-
sumed by them in the presence of those whom they
considered as their inferiors. :

The governor gave an invitation, which was declin-
ed, to the Embassador and his suite to entertainments
and plays on shore, as indeed had done the governor
of Chu-san, in order, in some small degree, to corres-
pond, as they expressed it, with the splendid reception
which it was understood their Sovereign intended for
his Excellency, when he should arrive at the imperial
court. : :

The eclat of such a reception was, no doubt, likely to
operate upon the minds of the people of China, who look
with more than an ordinary degree of reverence to the
throne. It might tend to impress them with a general
sense of consideration for the English nation, of which
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the agents of the English East India Company at Canton
might experience effects conducive to their benefit and
comfort. Every consideration demanded, at the same time,
that the individuals who composed, or accompanied, the
Embassy, should, by the correctness and circumspection
of their conduct, avoid giving offence, where it was so
easily taken at any disorder or lightness of behaviour ;
and should endeavour, wherever they went, to gain upon
the private good opinion of the Chinese; thus to coun-
teract the prejudices which the Company's records tes-
tify to have been entertained in that country against the
morals and manners of the English.

The Embassador determined, therefore, when the
~ squadron was already advanced in the Yellow sea, and
likely to arrive soon at its destined port in the gulf of
Pekin, to disperse a paper throughout the squadron ;
which was publicly read to the crews and passengers of
each vessel. His Excellency in this paper observed,
that “* it was impossible that the various important ob-
““ jects of the Embassy could be obtained but through the
‘“ good will of the Chinese ; that such good will might
‘“ much depend on the ideas which they should be in-
‘“ duced to entertain of the disposition and conduct of
‘“ the English nation ; of whom they could only judge
“¢ from the behaviour of those who came amongst them ;
‘“ that the impressions which had hitherto been made
‘“ upon their minds, in consequence of irregularities

467

Navigation
through the
Yellow sea.

 
463 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

ais oc
Navigation

committed by some Englishmen at Canton, were un-

through the . . .
Yellow sea. ¢¢ favourable to the degree of their being considered as
= « the worst amongst Europeans; that those impressions
¢« were communicated to that tribunal in the capital,
‘« which reported to, and advised, the Emperor upon all
«« concerns with foreign countries; that it was therefore
essential, by a conduct particularly regular and cir-
cumspect, on the part of those who belonged to, or
«« were connected with, the Embassy, to impress the Ghi-
‘“ nese with new, more just, and more favourable ideas
of Englishmen ; and to shew, even to the lowest offi-
cer in the sea or land service, or in the civil line, that
they were capable of maintaining, by example, and
by discipline, due order, sobriety, and subordination.
among their respective inferiors; that, tho the people
¢« of China had not the smallest share in the government,
‘“ yet it was a maxim invariably pursued by their supe-
riors, to support the meanest Chinese in any difference
with a stranger, and if the occasion should happen,
“« to avenge his blood ; of which, indeed, there had been
‘« a fatal instance not long since at Canton, where the
‘« gunner of an English vessel, who had been very in-
‘“ nocently the cause of the death of a native peasant,
was executed for it, notwithstanding the utmost united
efforts of the several European factories at Ganton to
save him. Peculiar caution and mildness must conse-
‘« quently be observed in every sort of intercourse or ac-

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

469

¢¢ cidental meeting with any, the poorest individual, of Navigation

‘‘ the country.
‘« His Excellency, who well knew that he need not

s¢ recommend to Sir Erasmus Gower to make whatever
¢ regulations prudence might dictate on the occasion,
‘¢ for the persons under his immediate command, as he
‘“ hoped Captain Mackintosh would do for the officers
‘“ and crew of the Hindostan, trusted also that the pro-
‘« priety and necessity of such regulations calculated to
«« preserve the credit of the English name, and the inte-
““ rest of the mother country in these remote parts, would
‘“ ensure to them a steady and cheerful obedience ; that
¢¢ the same motives, he flattered himself, would operate
““ likewise upon all the persons immediately connected
¢¢ with, or in the service of, the Embassy.

‘“ His Excellency declared, that as he should be ready
“‘ to encourage, and to report favourably upon, the good
¢¢ conduct of those who should be found to deserve it, so
‘“ he should think it his duty, in case of misconduct, or
‘“ disobedience of orders, to report the same with equal

through the
Yellow sea.

‘“ exactness, and to suspend or dismiss transgressors, as

‘“ the occasion might require ; nor, if offence should be
¢« offered to a Chinese, or a misdemeanour of any kind be
‘“ committed, which might be punishable by the laws of
‘“ China, would he deem himself bound to interfere, for

‘“ the purpose of endeavouring to mitigate or ward off

‘“ their severity.
VOL. I. sN
470 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Navigation ~~ *¢ His Excellency relied on Lieutenant Colonel Ben-
through the :
Yellow sea. ‘¢ son, commandant of his guard, that he would have a
‘strict and watchful eye over the individuals that com-
‘“ posed that body. Vigilance, as to their personal de-
‘“ meanour, was as requisite in the present circum-
‘¢ stances, as it 1s, tho from other motives, in regard to
““ the conduct of an enemy in time of war. The guard
‘“ was to be kept constantly together, and regularly exer-
‘“ cised in all military evolutions ; nor were any of them
‘“ to absent themselves from on board ship, or from what-
¢“ ever place might be allotted for their dwelling on shore,
¢¢ without leave from his Excellency, or their command-
‘“ ing officer. None of the mechanics or servants were
‘“ to leave the ship, or usual dwelling on shore, without
¢“ leave from the Embassador, or from Mr. Maxwell :
‘“ and his Excellency expected that the gentlemen in his
‘“ train would show the example of subordination, by
‘“ communicating their wishes to him before they went
““ from the ship, or their usual habitation ashore.
« His Excellency, in the most earnest manner, re-
‘“ quested that no person whatever belonging to the
““ ships be suffered, and he desired that none of his
‘ suite, guard, mechanics, or servants, would pre-
‘““ sume, to offer for sale, or propose to purchase, the
‘ smallest article of merchandize of any kind, under
‘“ any pretence whatever, without leave from him pre-
‘“ viously obtained. The necessity of avoiding the least
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

*« appearance of traffic, accompanying an Embassy to
«« Pekin, was such as to have induced the East India
«« Company to forego the profits of a new market, and
«« prevented them from shipping any goods for sale in
‘ the Hindostan, because the dignity and importance of
‘“ the Embassy, in the eyes of the Ghinese, would be
‘« utterly lost, and the good consequences expected from
““ it, even on commercial points, totally prevented, if
4 any actual transactions, tho in trifles, for the purpose
% of gain, should be discovered amongst any of the per-
““ sons concerned in conveying, or attending upon, an
‘© Embassador: transactions, of which a report would
‘« soon infallibly spread into that of a general system of
““ trading. From this strictness his Excellency would
« willingly relax, whenever such advances should have
‘“ been made by him in negotiation as would secure the
““ object of his mission; and when a permission from
‘ him to an European, to dispose of any particular ar-
“ticle of merchandize, should be considered as a favour
‘¢ granted to the Ghinese purchaser.

‘« His Excellency took that opportunity of declaring
““ also, that however determined his sense of duty made
“* him to forward the objects of his mission, and to watch,
““ detect, and punish, as far as in his power, any crime,
‘“ disobedience of orders, or behaviour tending to en-
¢¢ danger or delay the success of the present undertaking
“ or to bring discredit on the English character, or occa-

471

Navigation
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Yellow sea.

 
472

Navigation
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Yellow sea.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

«« sion any difficulty or embarrassment to the Embassy ;
«« 50, in like manner, should he feel himself happy in
« being able, at all times, to report and reward the merit,
«“ as well as to promote the interest, and indulge the
< wishes, of any person who accompanied him on that
« occasion, as much as might be consistent with the
¢« honour and welfare of the public.”

The reader, who may already wish to know the effect
of such a paper upon the persons to whom it was ad-
dressed, will be gratified in hearing, not only that the
Embassador thought himself justified in reporting very
favourably of their general conduct ; but thata mandarine
of rank, who accompanied the Embassy throughout,
declared before he parted from it, that the same number

of Chinese taken from the different ranks of society,

would not have demeaned themselves with so much
quiet and decorum.

‘What further precautions might be necessary to be
taken by the Embassador, previously to his entering Chi-
na, would partly depend on the situation of the squadron
while he should be absent from it. The first object was to
know whether it could have a secure retreat in the har-
bour of Mi-a-tau. On the return of the Clarence from
thence, the officer reported that ‘ a reef of rocks, lying
«« off the east end of the easternmost of the Mi-a-tau
«« islands, called Chan-san, and stretching north-east by
‘ north and south-west by south two miles, formed the
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EMBASSY TO GHINA.

only eastern security of the bay before Ghan-san. The
continent behind the city of Ten-choo-foo sheltered
this bay, in some measure, from the southern, as the
island itself did from the northern, winds. To the
westward it was entirely open; and this bay was cer-

«¢ tainly preferable to the anchorage off Ten-choo-foo ;

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but that the reef was a dangerous object, and should

‘not be approached nearer than where the soundings

were nine fathoms, as the water shoaled close to it
very suddenly. The Clarence anchored in this bay,

within a mile of the shore, in seven fathoms, in a clayey

473

Navigation
through the

Yellow sea.

holding ground. This island was about three miles in -

length, and nearly as many in breadth ; was well cul-
tivated, populous, and commercial.

‘ The centre island was properly Mi-a-tau. Between
it and the former was a bay, of which the issues were
from the northward and southward, through passages
not more than a quarter of a mile in width, and free
from danger. This bay was safe, and sufficiently ca-
pacious to contain near a hundred sail of vessels, of a
size small enough to anchor in three fathoms water.
The bottom was clayey, and consequently good holding
ground. This island was smaller than Chan-san, but
with a degree of population and culture equally great
in proportion to its size.

«« Kei-san was the westernmost of that small cluster of

¢« islands. It formed with the last, or proper Mi-a-tau, a
474 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Navigation ¢¢ very good bay for vessels requiring not more than two
Yellow sea.“ and three fathoms water. A dangerous reef of rocks off
=< the west point stretched north-east and south-west one
‘« mile, and might be approached within a cable’s length,
‘“ there being at that distance three fathoms water. That
«« reef formed the western security of the bay, and
‘“ must be kept to the left on entering into it. The low
““ ground on Kei-san was in a good state of cultivation,
‘« with several considerable villages; but the hills were
‘« quite barren. Opposite the high bluff westerly point,
‘« were six fathoms and a half of water a mile from the
t+ shore.” |
The report of the Clarence left no room to hope for
any permanent shelter at Mi-a-tau for ships of such a size
as the Lion and Hindostan ; and took away from whatever
confidence might have been placed in the Chinese pilots,
who had given so favourable a description of the har-
bour there. It was now determined by Sir Erasmus
Gower, before the squadron should venture into the
gulf of Pekin, of which the strait of Mi-a-tau might be
considered as the entrance, to send an officer to examine
particularly the mouth of the river which fell into it
from Tien-sing, in order exactly to ascertain whether
the ships might venture to it, and whether they could
be in any place of safety, while it might be necessary to
remain in its neighbourhood. The Jackall was dispatched
forthis purpose. She was, however, scarcely gone when a
"EMBASSY TO CHINA.

new Chinese pilot was recommended, as a person perfectly
well acquainted with the gulf of Pekin, and river leading
to Tien-sing. He was a man of a venerable aspect, plau-
sible in his manner, and appeared to be skilled in nau-
tical affairs. He asserted that there was an excellent
harbour within six miles of the Pei-ho, or white river,
which flows from Tien-sing, with plenty of water for
ships of any magnitude ; and in confirmation of the fact,
drew a sketch of the place, with its relative situation in
regard to the northern coast of the gulf, and to the mouth
of the river. The road of Ten-choo-foo, where the squa-
dron was then at anchor, was so unsafe that there was
little likelihood of changing for the worse, even if this
new pilot's information should be incorrect. The deter-
mination was therefore taken, of entering without further
delay into the gulf of Pekin.

In the afternoon of the twenty-third of July, the wind
being easterly, and the weather moderate, clear, and
pleasant, the squadron made sail, keeping the Mi-a-tau
islands on the right. The sea coast to the westward,
‘round the high bluff point of Ten-choo-foo, is perfectly
flat, and was just visible from the deck. There is either
a large inlet on this part of the coast, or a low island
lying near it, for the masts of several junks were per-
ceived rising from within the land. The Lion, on her
return afterwards from the gulf, discovered an extensive
reef stretching east by south and west by north for the
distance of two miles, with three fathoms and a half of

475

Navigation

_ through the

Yellow sea.
476

Navigation
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Yellow sea.
———

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

water upon the shallowest part, from whence the bluff
head of Ten-choo-foo lay east by south eight or nine
miles, and Kei-san island north by west. Soundings this
day irregular, from twelve to nine, and then to fifteen
fathoms ; chiefly about twelve.

Wednesday the twenty-fourth of July. Moderate
breezes from the south-east quarter, and fine clear wea-
ther. At three o'clock in the morning the water shoaled
suddenly from fourteen to nine fathoms, and soon as low
as six fathoms and a half. Presently afterwards the Cla-
rence, which had been sent ahead, fired several muskets
as signals of danger; upon which the ships wore round
and stood off to the east-south-east. The surge beating
upon rocks or shallow ground was heard distinctly. At
six in the morning, when it was almost calm, a long
range of low sandy islands was just visible, being little
higher than the surface of the sea. At noon the extre-
mities of these sandy islands bore by compass from west
by north to north, the latter point distant about eight
miles. On the easternmost island is a tall building erect-
ed, as the pilot mentioned, for the purpose of warning
ships, in the night time, to keep clear of the sands with
which those islands are surrounded.

Thursday the twenty-fifth of July. The wind south
and south-westerly, light breezes and weather clear. The
squadron stood to the westward under easy sail, inclining
a little to the southward, to keep clear of the low islands.
The depth of water regularly decreased from fifteen to
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

seven fathoms, when another small low island appeared
bearing north, and distant about six miles. The squadron
from hence stood on a western course till midnight, when
tho the Lion's depth of water was six fathoms, the Cla-
rence made the signal of danger. The ships consequently
hauled their wind to the south-east, and deepened the
water to ten fathoms: standing on this course about four
miles, and then bearing away west-north-west four miles
more, the depth of water was decreased to six fathoms
and a half, when they came to anchor. The next day,
twenty-sixth of July, it rained most violently during the
forenoon ; and in the evening there was, for several
hours together, such a series of lightning and thunder,
as few on board the Lion ever before remembered. The
lightning seemed to overspread the sky with immeasur-
able sheets of livid flame, accompanied by continued vol-
lies of thunder, that resembled the rolling fire of well
disciplined troops at a review. The sea, however, remain-
ed perfectly smooth and unruffled by these concussions
of the atmosphere ; and the ships rode at single anchor
all the time. Soon afterwards the Jackall was perceived
returning from the westward. ‘She was surrounded by
an immense number of Chinese vessels, mostly standing
also from the westward. ‘The land was not yet visible
from the Lion’s decks; but the tops of trees and buildings
were seen exhibiting a singular appearance, as if perched
up in the air. From the mast heads, however, a very
VOL. I. 3.0

477

Navigation
through the

Yellow sea.

 
478

Navigation
through the

Yeilow sea.

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

low and sandy beach was discovered above the surface
of the water, extending from north-west to west, and dis-
tant from the ship at least four leagues. Lieutenant, now
Captain, Campbell, who had been sent in the Jackall
to explore the coast, found that ¢¢ the river Pei-ho which
« comes from Tien-sing was distant fifteen miles from the
“« present anchorage of the squadron; that a bar crossed
‘¢ the mouth of the river stretching north-north-east and
¢« south-south-west, over which, at low water, the depth
«¢ was not more than three or four feet, and which in
““ many places, was almost dry; that the tides rose and
«« fell six or seven feet at the mouth of the river; and

~ «that the time of high water, at the full and change of

* the moon, was about half after three; that five or six
““ miles outside the mouth of the river a large bamboo
““ beacon was placed upon the bar, with other bamboos
¢ of a smaller size, continued nearly in a straight line to
‘* the shore; which were intended to serve as marks to
“« direct vessels entering into the river ; it being meant
“ that these beacons should be kept close on board, and
““ to the larboard or left hand side. A course of west by
““ north, according to the compass, led up the best chan-
“nel, in a line with a fort which stands on the south-
‘“ west side of the entrance into the river, which at its
‘ mouth was about one-third of a mile in width, and three
‘“ fathoms in depth at low water. The city and port
‘ of Tien-sing were reported to be thirty or forty miles
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

““ by land, from the mouth of the river, and twice as far
“by water.” As to the promised harbour of the pilot,
not the least traces of it were to be discovered ; except
that there might be some shelter behind the low sandy
islands against the swell of the sea; tho little against the
winds. The situation of these islands agreed, indeed,
exactly with the sketch which had been given by the
pilot; and behind them were perceived the masts of
many junks. The place, however, was not examined,
from the little hope that was entertained of finding any
security for large ships there. A very slight view of the
land surrounding the gulf was sufficient to shew that no
secure harbour was likely to be found upon its shores.
A good harbour is generally formed by the means of
massy rocks, or at least of high and considerable mounds
of compact earth, thrust forward by some irregular ope-
ration, or in some convulsion, of nature: leaving with-
in them an inlet of the sea, which those projecting
points may protect from the violence of the winds and
waves ; whereas the country which terminates this gulf
is utterly devoid of any solid and elevated masses ca-
pable of becoming a bulwark, behind which there might
be a safe retreat for shipping. Instead of such a bulwark
nothing is seen but a low and level surface, the natural
effect of a gradual deposition of soil washed down from
the interior mountains, which soil fills up every original
inequality, and meets afterwards in a regular line, the

179

Navigation
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Yellow sea.
480

Navigation
through: the

Yellow sea.

 

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

open sea, where no shelter is afforded. A part, no doubt,
of the waters falling from the mountains is collected into
streams ‘which swell, by their union, into rivers; but
the motion which had been acquired by such waters, in
their descent from the heights, will, in some degree, be
afterwards retarded, according to the extent of flat country
which those rivers have to traverse. The land appearing
to gain gradually here upon the sea, and consequently
the extent of flat country being upon the increase, the
river may be supposed to lose somewhat of the force with
which it used to carry and disperse into the gulf the
earth it had brought with it from the mountains. - This
earth is at length accumulated a little below the river's
mouth, and forms the bar which crosses it completely.
The bar does not, however, materially obstruct the
navigation of Chinese ships. There are many, indeed,
here of three or four hundred tons; but they are con-

structed with bottoms so shallow and flat, and with upper

works so light, that several passed over the bar into the
river, while the Jackall, of about one hundred tons, with
much difficulty, could follow them: the latter being
built for navigating with the variable and frequently
adverse winds of the European seas; and drawing, on
that account, double the quantity of water, or, in other
words, sinking to double the depth of junks, or Chinese
vessels of equal burden. The inconvenience of falling
much to leeward with a side wind, to which the flat-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

bottomed vessels of Europe are liable, is not very much
felt in the Chinese seas, where vessels sail generally with
the monsoon directly in their favour. The sails, too, of
Chinese junks are made to go round the masts with so
much ease, and to form so acute an angle with the sides
of the vessel, that they turn well to windward, notwith-
standing the little hold they have of the water.

Mr. Hiitner, the foreigner mentioned in the second
chapter of this work, and who accompanied Captain
Campbell in this expedition in the Jackall, reported that
‘“ he saw, on entering into the river, a vast number of
¢« junks, all crowded with people, many of whom were
‘“ probably attracted by the novelty of an European ves-
““ sel under sail. On board such of the junks as were
‘« conducted with oars, the sailors were animated by a
““ very melodious song, begun by the helmsman, and
“ answered by the rowers. It was not merely an amuse-
‘“ ment, but served to render the motion of the oars more
““ equal, and to fix the attention of the men that used
«« them. The Jackall was soon accosted by Chinese sol-
‘“ diers in a boat, desiring her to anchor, and wait the
«« arrival of a mandarine, who had inquiries to make about
‘ her. This gentleman made his appearance presently,
«« with several attendants, upon the Jackall’s deck. As
““ soon as he was satisfied that she belonged to the ex-
‘« pected Embassy, he made many inquiries about the
«« Embassador, and the presents brought for his Imperial

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Majesty. As the answers were general, he, after a
little time, endeavoured to obtain a more particular
account by changing the manner and form of his
questions . and he seemed to exert no little address to
obtain his object. Tho the motion of the brig and
smell of the tar were offensive to him, yet he con-
tinued long on board to collect information as to the
size and strength of the ships attending the Embassa-
dor, and the number of men and guns on board ; while
one of his attendants was busy writing all the time of
the conference, as if taking notes of every thing that
passed. The mandarine concluded by declaring, that

the Emperor had issued orders for the reception and

accommodation of the Embassy, and offered to supply
whatever might be wanted. The brig being obliged
to wait in the river for the return of the tide next day,
Captain Campbell and Mr. Hiitner were invited on
shore, where they were hospitably treated ; but in a
manner cross-examined, and the former questions re-
peated to them. Particular inquiries were also made
as to the species of nutriment to which the Embassador
and his suite had been accustomed, and how his Ex-
cellency wished to travel: observing that gentlemen
in China travelled either in sedan chairs, or in two-
wheeled carriages by land, or in commodious boats by
water ; which latter method was generally preferred
wherever practicable; but adding, that his Excellency
EMBASSY TO CHINA. 485

«« and his suite were to be accommodated whichever Navigation
*¢ way they wished. ‘The mandarines spoke also about Velen en
¢¢ the articles of merchandize which they supposed were
‘ brought for sale to Pekin, and said they might be safely
‘“ deposited in the four Christian churches of that city,
‘ where they might be sold to great advantage. The
¢« idea of trade was so associated with that of Englishmen,
¢¢ in the minds of the Chinese, who knew them only as
‘ venders and purchasers of goods, -that they could
«« scarcely give credit to the assertion, that the persons
‘“ composing the Embassy were not merchants, and
‘ that ships of war never carried goods for sale, or
¢¢ that there was little, beside what was intended for
«« presents for the court, in any of the vessels. The pro-
«« posal, made with so little ceremony, of converting
‘ churches into shops for the retail of merchandize,
‘« which appeared singular to an European ear, was per-
«“ fectly familiar to the Chinese, whose places of worship
« are occasionally made to answer every purpose of
« utility to which they may be applied. The building
‘« in which this conversation took place was itself a
“ temple; and in the crowd were some of the bonzes or
““ priests who ministered in it, and were remarkable for
““ the contrast between their grey beards and their robes
““ of rose-coloured silk.

¢« The mandarines, who were informed that the Eng-
« lish ships could not cross the bar, immediately con-

 

-~
484 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Hoy “si ceived their size to be immense, and formed a propor-
Yellowsea. ¢ tionate idea of the quantity of presents necessary to
«fill them. They gave orders for preparing junks to
“« bring those presents, as well as the passengers and
‘“ baggage, on shore. A considerable building near the
“ river's mouth was provided for the reception of the
‘“ Embassador, where it was expected he would remain
““ some days, to recover from the fatigues of so long a
‘“ voyage. And it was observed, that he need not pre-
““ cipitate his journey te the capital, as the Emperor’s
““ birthday was yet at a considerable distance: these
‘ people not imagining that an embassy could be any
““ thing more than a visit or message of high compliment
to their sovereign on that anniversary, or on the occa-
sion of some other solemn festival.”
Mr. Hiitner was not long returned to the Lion when
several Chinese vessels appeared with live-stock, fruit,
and other vegetables in such profusion that the ships
could only contain a part, and the overplus was neces-
sarily sent back. It may not be uninteresting to read the
list of what was sent at once. Twenty bullocks, one
hundred and twenty sheep, one hundred and twenty
hogs, one hundred fowls, one hundred ducks, one hun-
dred and sixty bags of flour, fourteen chests of bread, one
hundred and sixty bags of common rice, ten chests of red
rice, ten chests of white rice, ten chests of small rice,
ten chests of tea, twenty-two boxes of dried peaches,
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

twenty-two boxes of fruit preserved with sugar, twenty-

two chests of plums and apples, twenty-two boxes of

ochras, twenty-two boxes of other vegetables, forty
baskets of large cucumbers, one thousand squashes,
forty bundles of lettuce, twenty measures of peas in
pods, one thousand water melons, three thousand musk
melons, beside a few jars of sweet wine and spirituous
liquors; together with ten chests of candles, and three
baskets of porcelaine. In the same plentiful and gra-
tuitous manner were provisions constantly supplied,
without waiting for being demanded. The hospitality,
and indeed the attentions of every other kind, which the
Embassy and squadron experienced on all occasions,
particularly at Turon bay, Ghu-san, Ten-choo-foo, and
here, were such as strangers seldom meet, except in the
eastern parts of the world. |
Two mandarines of rank, appointed by the court, one
in the military and one in the civil service, with a nu-
merous train of attendants, approached the Lion to pay
their respects to the Embassador. These mandarines, it
seemed, had never been before upon salt water. They
had never seen a ship of the Lion’s construction, bulk,
or loftiness. They were ata loss how to ascend her sides;
but chairs were quickly fastened to tackles, by which
they were lifted up, while they felt a mixture of dread
and admiration at this easy, rapid, but apparently peri-

lous, conveyance. In their anxiety to fulfil their duty
VOL. 1, J

 

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486

EMBASSY TO CHINA,

Navigation 111 paying this early visit, they had crossed the bar in the

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first sea junk they found, which was little prepared or

~ calculated for such passengers, being crowded, dirty, and

uncomfortable. On leaving it, they were the more forci-
bly struck with the orderly, as well as martial, appearance
upon the Lion's deck ; the size and elegance of the great
cabin fitted up for the Embassador, into which they
were introduced ; aswell as the multiplied conveniences
throughout the ship. They congratulated his Excellency,
in the Emperor's name, and in their own, on his safe
arrival, after traversing so great a portion of the ocean.
They told him they were appointed to attend him to the
imperial court; that it was the express will of their so-
vereign, and their own disposition, as indeed it proved,
to render his journey safe and agreeable to him. Their

conduct throughout deserves that they should be introdu-

ced with particular notice in this work. The civil manda-
rine was a manof grave, but not austere, manners. His de-
meanour indicated a plain and solid understanding. He
was not forward in discourse: neither appearing to aim
atany thing brilliantin himself, nor to be dazzled byitin
others. A faithful and benevolent discharge of his duty
seemed to be the sole and simple object of his pursuit.

He had been preceptor to some of the imperial family ;
and was considered as a man of learning and judgment.

He bore the honorary distinction of a blue globe, placed
upon the bonnet covering his head. All mandarines, or
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

persons vested with authority, from the first minister to
the lowest constable, are divided into nine classes, and

bear, in like manner, small globes or balls upon their

bonnets, but of different colours and materials, and are
distinguished, besides, by appropriate dresses, in order
to point them out to the people and to strangers; and
to secure, at all times, a proper respect to their persons,
and due obedience to their orders. This mandarine had
likewise the title of Ta-zkin, or great man, superadded to
his family name of Ghow.

The military mandarine who accompanied Chow-ta-
zhin was in the true character of his profession, ¢ open,
bold, and brave.” His name was Van, and he, in like
manner, was styled Van-ta-zhin, or Van the great man.
Beside a red globe above his bonnet, he was honoured
with another mark of favour for his services. This was
literally a feather, and taken from a peacock’s tail. It
was given by the Emperor, with directions to wear it
pendent from hisbonnet. This gentleman had signalized
himself in battle, and had received several wounds. His
person was perfectly suited for a warrior. He was above
the middle size, erect, and uncommonly muscular. In
the Chinese armies, where the bow and arrow are still
in use, and generally preferred to fire arms, his activity
and strength, as well as his other martial qualities, were
‘highly prized. And, tho he was no boaster, in his deport-
“ment was sometimes perceptible an honest consciousness

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

of his prowess and achievements. Instead of any arrogance
or roughness in his disposition, good nature was conspi-
cuous in his countenance; and his manners testified his
willingness to oblige. He was cheerful and pleasant in
his conversation, banishing all reserve, and treating his
new friends with the familiarity of old acquaintance.

A third person of high distinction, of a Tartar race,
had been sent as principal legate on this occasion by the
Emperor, being himself of a Tartar dynasty; but the
legate, a man of a haughty disposition, and, besides, very
fearful of the sea, waited to receive his Excellency after
he should get on shore. The others, tho of a different
character, were no more than the former much inclined to
trust themselves upon that element ; but being of Chinese

origin, as well as birth, they thought it necessary to be

more strict in their obedience, at which, indeed, they
had occasion afterwards to rejoice.

~ These gentlemen were received on board the Lion with
attention and cordiality. Much of the stiffness which
generally accompanies a communication through the
medium of an interpreter, was removed by the good
humour of the parties, and the ardent desire they felt of
making out one another’s meaning. Their discourse by
no means partook of the guarded intercourse of strangers
suspicious of each other. Sometimes before the explana-
tion was given of the expressions used, the occasion
itself suggested what was intended to be said; and
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

gesture often came in aid of words. There was, however,
so much employment for the Chinese interpreter, that a
trial was now made of the skill of two persons belonging
to the Embassy, to whom the Chinese missionaries had
endeavoured to communicate some knowledge of their
language, ever since they had left Naples together, above
a year before. One of these persons applied to this
study with the uninterrupted diligence of mature age,
but had the mortification of finding that as yet he could
scarcely understand a word of what was said to him by
these new comers, to whom his pronunciation was
equally unintelligible: while the other, a youth, who
certainly took less pains, but whose senses were more
acute, and whose organs were more flexible, proved al-
ready a tolerable good interpreter. Many words, it seems,
of the Chinese tongue, of however opposite a signifi-
cation, frequently differ from each other, in the utter-
ance, only in some slight variation of accent or intona-
tion ; and which is susceptible of being more quickly
caught, and more accurately- rendered by those who
learn in early life, than by any who begin to attempt
it after being advanced in years. So close is the ap-
proximation sometimes in the inflexions of the voice,
in uttering Chinese words of different meanings, that it
1s not uncommon, even among the natives, in order to
avoid mistakes in conversation, to add to the principal
terms used, the nearest synonyms in sense, by way of

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RR a —

EMBASSY TO CHINA.

explanation. The necessity of doing so arises {from the
use of monosyllables only in the Chinese language,
which must be less distinct as admitting fewer combina-
tions, as well as from the exclusion of some of the harsher
sounds of other nations, among which the difference in
the pronunciation of words is consequently more per-
ceptible.

The two mandarines inquired if the letter brought for
the Emperor by the Embassador was translated into
Chinese, and requested at any rate to know the purport
of it. A compliance with this request was not urged as
an etiquette prescribed by the imperial court; nor yet
did it appear to have been asked from the indiscreet
eagerness of curiosity ; but rather was considered as a
matter of ordinary course; and which might enable
those mandarines more completely to fulfil the object
they had in view, of obtaining and conveying to their
sovereign every information relating to the Embassy.
It was, however, thought more prudent, and perhaps
more decent, to reserve the communication of his Ma-
jesty’s letter, at least until the arrival of the Embassador
at the capital ; and therefore an answer was given, that the
original with the translations of it, were locked up to-
gether in a golden box, to be delivered into the Empe-
ror’s hands.

Concerning the presents, the mandarines were pecu-
liarly solicitous to inquire; and a list of them was

Ni
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

formally demanded, to be sent to his Imperial Majesty.
The same demand had, indeed, been made by every Chi-
nese who had intercourse with the Embassador, or with
the Commissioners at Canton, on the subject of the Em-
bassy ; and it appeared from the beginning how much
curiosity had been excited respecting them. A common
catalogue, containing the names of those on board the
Hindostan, would not convey any idea of their qualities
or intrinsic worth, or indeed be understood by any
effort of translation. They would, likewise, sufter by
being confounded with the mere curiosities sent usually
for sale; which, however expensive, or even ingenious,
were more glittering than useful. It was necessary,
therefore, to make out, somewhat in the Oriental style,
such a general description of the nature of the articles,
now sent, as appeared likely to render them acceptable;
measuring their merit by their utility, and endeavouring

even to derive some credit from the omission of splendid

trifles. © It was accordingly prefaced by observing, that
““ the King of Great Britain, willing to testify his high
““ esteem and veneration for his Imperial Majesty of
“¢ China, by sending an Embassy to him at such a dis-
“tance, and by choosing an Embassador among the
““ most distinguished characters of the British domi-
““ nions, wished also that whatever presents he should
send, might be worthy of such a wise and discerning
“ monarch. Neither their quantity nor their cost could

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

““ be of any consideration before the Imperial throne,
‘“ abounding with wealth and treasures of every kind.
‘“ Nor would it be becoming to offer trifles of momentary
““ curiosity, but little use. His Britannic Majesty had
‘“ been, therefore, careful to select only such articles as
« might denote the progress of science, and of the arts
¢“ in Europe, and which might convey some kind of in-
“« formation to the exalted mind of his Imperial Majesty,
“« or such other articles as might be practically useful.
““ The intent and spirit accompanying presents, not the
““ presents themselves, are chiefly of value between so-

© oe +99
vereigns.

Some of the articles were described in the following
manner. |
““ The first and principal. consists of many parts,
which may be used distinctly, or be connected to-
gether, and represents the universe, of which the
earth is but a small portion. This work is the ut-
most effort of astronomical science and mechanic art
‘“ combined together, that was ever made in Europe. It
“¢ shews and imitates, with great clearness and with ma-
‘ thematical exactness, the several motions of the earth,
‘¢ according to the system of European astronomers ;
likewise the eccentric or irregular motions of the moon
around it; and of the sun, with the planets which
‘“ surround it, as well as the particular system of the
‘“ planet, called by Europeans, Jupiter, which has four

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moons constantly moving about it, as well as belts’ upon
its surface ; and also of the planet Saturn, with its ring

and moons ; together with the eclipses, conjunctions,

and oppositions of the heavenly bodies. Another part
indicates the month, the week, the day, the hour, and
minute, at the time of inspection. This machine is as
simple in its construction, as it is complicated and
wonderful in its effects; nor does any so perfect re-
main behind in Europe. It is calculated for above a
thousand years ; and will be long a monument of the

respect in which the virtues of his Imperial Majesty

are held in some of the remotest parts of the world.

‘“ With this machine, is immediately connected an-
other, of a curious and useful construction, for observ-
ing, farther and better than had formerly been done,
distant and minute bodies in the heavens, as they
really move in the great expanse ; the result of such
observations demonstrating the exactness with which

those motions are imitated in the machine already de-

scribed. Those observations are made, not by look-
ing directly at the object, as in common telescopes, in
which the powers of sight are more limited ; but by
perceiving, sideways, the reflection of such object upon
mirrors, according to a method invented by a great
philosopher called Newton, and improved by an ex-

« cellent astronomer called Herschel ; and who both

“+ have made such discoveries in science, as to deserve

VOL. I. 3 Q

493

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A —————"

 
494 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Navigation ““ that their names should reach to his Imperial Majesty
gh «of China. The powers of vision, in particular, have
~ ** been extended by their means beyond all former hopes
‘“ or calculations.
«« As astronomy is not only essentially useful towards
““ the perfection of geography and navigation, but, from
‘“ the greatness of its objects, elevates the mind, and thus
is worthy of the contemplation of sovereigns; and
‘“ has, accordingly, attracted the notice of his Imperial
‘“ Majesty, who has encouraged the cultivation of that
science, an useful instrument is added for that pur-
pose, as it may serve to explain and reconcile the real
““ motion of the earth, with the apparent motion of the
‘“ sun, and other celestial bodies.
‘“ Another article consists of a globe, representing the
heavenly firmament, the ground or general colour
being azure, imitative of the sky; on which ground,
all the fixed stars are placed in their precise relative
positions. The stars are made of gold and silver, in
different tints, and of different magnitudes, according
to the proportional size of which they appear as viewed
*¢ from the earth; together with silver lines for the dif-
“« ferent divisions which distinguish the several parts of
¢¢ ‘the firmament.
“ Corresponding to this celestial globe, is one repre-
«« senting the different continents of the earth, with its
““ seas and islands: distinguishing the possessions of the

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mountains. It is executed with peculiar care, and com-
prehends all the discoveries in different parts of the
world, made in the voyages undertaken for that purpose
by order of his Britannic Majesty, together with the
routes of the different ships sent on those expeditions.
“« Several packages contain instruments for ascertain-
ing time, with all the improvements and elegance of
modern inventions. One of these points out the pe-
riods of the new and full, and other phases or changes
of the, moon. The other indicates the state of the air,
and foretells the impending changes in the atmosphere.
A machine is added for removing air, in order to
make, in the vacant space, several curious and extra-
ordinary experiments, which prove the importance of
the atmosphere to animal life, and its effects on the

¢ motion of inanimate substances.

«« Likewise a machine, pointing out the different
means, or methods, called by Europeans the mecha-
nical powers, which assist the natural strength of man
or beast ; with contrivances for the exemplification of
those powers, applied to the assistance and comforts of
infirmity or age.

‘« The next articles consist of several pieces of brass
ordnance used in battles, and howitzer mortars, which
are instruments of annoyance, from whence combus-
tible matter is thrown into the towns or fortresses of an

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

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interesting to so great a warrior and conqueror as his
Imperial Majesty. = To these are added other military

‘weapons, such as muskets, pistols, and sword blades.

These arms, tho richly ornamented, are chiefly. valu-
able for their useful qualities ; the muskets and pistols
for assisting the aim, and assuring the fire, and ‘the
sword blades for cutting through iron without losing

¢ their edge.

«« His Britannic Majesty, who is stkndvliided by di

rest of Europe to be the first maritime power, and is

truly sovereign of the seas, wished, as a particular

“mark of his attention to his Imperial Majesty, to send

some of his largest ships with the present Embassy.

He was however obliged to fix on vessels of a less con-

siderable size; on account of the shallows and sands of
the Yellow sea, little known to European navigators ;
but he has sent a complete model of the largest British
ship of war, mounting one hundred and ten cannon of

¢ considerable caliber. This model shews every the mi-

nutest part of such a stupendous structure. = +

Yet Specimens are sent likewise of the modes in which

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the best British artists work, and render valuable, the

clayey and stony substances found in their own coun-

try. Among those specimens are useful and ornamen-
tal vases ; some imitative of antiquities, and some in
the best modern taste.
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

«« Several of these articles owe much of their hardness

‘and beauty to the operation of common or terrestrial
« fire; but a degree of heat, vastly more intense, as well

as more sudden and astonishing in its effects, is col-
lected immediately from the sun, by means of an

‘instrument, which next follows among the presents.

It consists chiefly of two transparent bodies of glass,
one of a prodigious size for such a material, and

‘wrought by nice and persevering art into such a

form, and so placed and directed as not only to kindle

into flame matters easily combustible, when exposed
at a particular distance before it, but also to soften and

‘« reduce at once into a powder or a fluid, the hardest

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stones, or most refractory metals, of gold, silver, cop-
per, iron, or even the new-discovered substance called

¢ platina, or white gold ; which platina is more difficult

of fusion, in a common fire or furnace, than any of
the metals formerly known in nature. The principal

parts of this machine being as brittle in their compo-

sition, as it is powerful, violent, and instantaneous in

* its operations, are so difficult to be procured without
defect, and so liable to be broken during the attempts
¢ of the artist to bring them to perfection, that they are
¢ very rarely obtained of a considerable size ; and one of

the masses of glass now presented, is much the largest
and most complete that was ever made in Europe.

““ In separate cases are packed up the different parts
of two magnificent lustres, or frames of glass, with

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498 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Navigation *¢ gold, for containing lights to illuminate the great
hrough th . :

Velloawsen. © apartments of a palace: such lustres varying in their
‘“ form and effect, according to the disposition of the in-

““ numerable pieces which compose them. In these are

 

e placed circular lamps which diffuse, by a method
““ lately discovered, a much grander and more vivid
‘“ light than art had been enabled to produce before.

‘“ Several other packages are added, consisting of a
‘¢ great number of the productions and manufactures of
““ Great Britain, particularly in wool and cotton, as well
¢“ as in steel and other metals. In such a variety, there
‘“1s a chance that some may be found acceptable for
‘“ their use, their curiosity, or as objects of comparison
‘“ with a few of the great manufactures of his Imperial
‘“ Majesty's dominions.

‘“ To the specimens of such articles as were capable of
“¢ transportation, are added several representations taken
“ from nature, of cities, towns, churches, seats, gar-
‘“ dens, castles, bridges, lakes, volcanos, and antiquities ;
“ likewise of battles by sea and land, dockyards or
‘“ places for building ships, horse-races, bull-fighting,
*¢ and of most other objects curious or remarkable in the
*“ dominions of his Britannic Majesty, and other parts of
¢“ Europe; also, of several of the most eminent persons,
““ including the royal family of Great Britain : the repre-
““ sentations themselves being monuments of the arts by -
*“ which they are made in their present advanced state.”

This description, beside being translated into Chinese,
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

was likewise very carefully rendered into Latin by Mr.
Hiitner, as his Majesty's letter to the Emperor had been,
in order to afford to the missionaries in his service at
Pekin, an opportunity of correcting any error which
might have crept into the Chinese translation, the style
of writing in that language for the court being familiar
only to those who are employed about the palace. This
Chinese translation was, however, sufficiently intelligi-
ble to Chow-ta-zhin and Van-ta-zhin, to occasion their
admiration of its contents. A sufficient number of pro-
per junks was provided to convey the whole across the
bar ; beyond which it was again necessary to tranship all
the articles into vessels of another form and construction ;
the former being unfit to navigate up the river to the
neighbourhood of the capital, and the latter too weak
and delicate to resist the surge striking upon the bar, or
the occasional violence of the sea without it. Other junks
were supplied, likewise, for conveying the persons and
baggage of the Embassy from the ships into the river,
where vessels fit to navigate upon it were ready to re-
ceive them: his Excellency having signified his inten-
tion of travelling by water, as the method he understood
to be the most convenient.

When the sea junks were all assembled, to the number
of about thirty vessels, round the squadron, the whole
exhibited a curious contrast, and singular spectacle, of
the towering masts and complicated tackling of European

499

Navigation
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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

ships, in the midst of the low, simple, and clumsy, but
strong and roomy, junks of the Chinese. Each ofthe latter
was of the burden of about two hundred tons. The hold,

‘or cavity below the upper deck, is divided into about a

dozen distinct compartments, by partitions of two-inch

plank ; and the seams are caulked with a cement of lime,

prepared in such a ‘manner as to render them perfectly
imperviousto water, or, in the marine phrase, water-tight.
This cement, Doctor Dinwiddie observes, is composed
of lime and oil, with a few scrapings of bamboo: the
latter article serving the same purpose as hair in English
plaster. This composition, he adds, becomes very tena-
cious and hard, and will not burn. If, notwithstanding
the oil, it possesses that incombustible quality, it is no
doubt preferable to pitch, tar, or tallow, none of which
are used over the wooden work, or round the ropes of
Chinese vessels.

The advantages arising from dividing the holds of
those vessels seem to have been well experienced; for

‘the practice is universal throughout China. From hence

it sometimes happens, that one merchant has his goods
safely conveyed in one division, while those of another
suffer considerable damage from a leak in the compart-
ment in which they are placed. A ship may strike
against a rock, and yet not sink ; for the water, entering

by the fracture, will be confined to the division where

the injury happens to be sustained; and a shipper of
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

501

wares, who charters several divisions, has a chance, if Navigation

one of them proves leaky, that those contained in the
remainder may escape.

To the adoption of a similar plan in European mer-
chantmen, beside the opposition of popular prejudice, and
the expence, as well as uncertainty, of new experiments,
an objection might arise from the reduction it would
occasion in the quantity of freight, and the increased
difhculty of stowing bulky articles. It remains to be
considered how far those objections ought to prevail
against the greater security of the vessel, crew, and cargo.
At any rate, the objection does not apply to ships of
war, in which, to carry very heavy burdens, is not an
object of consideration.

Every junk had two large masts, each of which con-
sisted of a single tree, or piece of timber, of a diameter
much greater in proportion to its length than that of
European masts. Those of China carried each a square
sail, generally made of split bamboo, and sometimes of
matting, composed of straw or reeds. The junks are
nearly of the same flat form at both extremities. At
one is a rudder, of a breadth almost equal to that of a
London lighter. It is guided by ropes passing from it
along each side of the vessel's quarter. Their compass-
box is shut up in a small bowl in a part of the ship nearly
corresponding to that where it stands in the binnacle of
an European vessel. A candle is frequently kept lighted

YOL. I. JR

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

near it, and a quantity of sand 1s placed in the bottom of
the bowl, in which are stuck some perfumed matches
when an offering 1s intended to be made to the divinity
that is supposed to preside over the sea. To that divi-
nity an altar, well stored with trinkets and matches, is
erected at the extremity of a very small cabin, round
which are the births for the captain and crew, just of
sufficient size to contain their persons. Each birth is
supplied with a mat, by way of bed, and a hard stuffed
cushion to lay the head upon. Forty or fifty men were
sometimes employed to navigate one junk. They seemed
all to take an equal interest, and an equal share in the
conduct of the vessel; and it was understood that none
of them received fixed wages, but that each had a
portion of the profit accruing from the service per-
formed. |

Into a sufficient number of those junks the presents
and baggage were transhipped, tho in the open sea,
withoutany damage. The weather indeed was fine. The
stormy season, however, was approaching; and it was
impossible for the squadron to make much stay 1n its
present exposed situation. It had been intended by the
East India Company, that as soon as the Hindostan
should be discharged by the Embassador at Tien-sing,
she should proceed to Canton to take a cargo from thence
for Europe, in the usual way of trade. As she must in
her route pass by Chu-san, it was now thought de-
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

sirable for her to touch there, in the probability of her
procuring a lading home on more advantageous terms
than at Canton, if leave should happen to be granted for
the purchase, at the former port, of the teas and silks of
the neighbouring provinces. On this account, Captain
Mackintosh was the more readily allowed by the Em-
bassador to accompany him to Pekin, that he might have
the opportunity of soliciting that permission personally
from the government; and might, in his way back to
join his ship, have perhaps occasion to observe the me-
thod of manufacturing the goods he generally carried
from China, relative to which the East India Company
was desirous of receiving particular information. It
was absolutely necessary, likewise, before the Embassa-
dor should leave the Lion, to determine how to dispose
of her while the public business might detain his Ex-
cellency on shore. No knowledge had been obtained
of a harbour sufficiently secure for her during winter,
‘throughout the gulf of Pekin. It was thought also, that
a Chinese port was the least desirable for her to continue
long in, as, notwithstanding every care, some accident
or difference with the natives might take place to affect
the general purpose of the Embassy. The apprehen-
sion even of any disturbance might operate on such a
government as that of the Chinese, to occasion the pre-
mature departure of the Embassador. Nor did Sir
Erasmus Gower think it conducive to the health or dis-

503

Navigation
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504 EMBASSY TO CHINA,

tm cipline of his men that they should remain, any length
Yellow sea. Of time, inactive. By employing a part of his leisure
during the present season in sailing to Japan, with a
view to sound the disposition of that court towards
a mercantile connection with the English nation, his
Excellency might be enabled to determine about go-
ing there, agreeably to his instructions, in case there
should be a reasonable prospect of public benefit arising
from such a measure: or if Sir Erasmus Gower should
find that people persevering in the usual system of exclu-
sion, or that, otherwise, no material advantage was to be
derived from any intercourse with them, the informa-
tion of that commander might save the expence of the
Embassy’s continuing longer in Asia, for the purpose of
such an expedition. Combining these considerations
with the general objects of the mission, the Embassador
wrote to him agreeably to the powers he had received,
that ** as it was impossible for the Lion to remain much
‘“ longer in her present situation without the bar, which
‘“ prevented the entrance of such a vessel into the Pei-
‘“ ho river, he thought himself bound to state to him
‘“ the manner in which he conceived it expedient for
““ his Majesty's service that she should be employed,
‘“ while the business of the: Embassy might detain him
«« at the court of Pekin; that it would no doubt be in
““ the first place necessary that she should proceed to
‘“ the nearest harbour, where she might be made ready
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

«“ for a voyage to some of the principal islands in the
‘“ Chinese seas, after the sick should recover from the
«« effects of the unwholesome climate on the coasts of
¢« Java and Sumatra ; that the commander would pro-
‘« bably fix for that purpose on the bays of Ki-san-seu,
«« or Chu-san, at which places there were small islands
‘« where tents might be conveniently erected in dry
«« and airy situations, favourable for convalescents, and
‘« where, by direction of the neighbouring mandarines,
“ he would be able to obtain refreshments of every
«« kind. His Excellency knew that it was the intention
““ of the commander to pay for every article received on
«“ board. It was possible, however, that the mandarines
‘“ would conceive themselves bound by the general
¢« orders of the Emperor relative to the Embassy, to ac-
““ cept no payment for the supplies afforded to the Lion;
‘« but to charge for them in account with the imperial
‘¢ treasury, and perhaps not without exaggeration as to
““ quantity and value ; and as it was essential that the
“ Embassy should appear as little burdensome as pos-
¢« sible to the Chinese, he trusted that the commander
‘« would give particular directions, that no provisions or
« other articles be received on board, except what were
““ solely for the general account, as absolutely neces-
““ sary for the ship’s use, or the health of the crew; and
«¢ that nothing of any kind be allowed to come on board
as presents to individuals. His Excellency understood

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Navigation
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506 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Jorn ‘“ that the people of the Lion had hitherto felt little or
Yellowsea. ‘¢ nothing of the scurvy, notwithstanding their long
‘“ voyage, which circumstance might be attributed to
‘“ the frequent opportunities they had to breathe the air
‘ of land at the several places where they stopped, to
‘“ the supplies of fresh provisions which were so often
‘« procured for them by their commander, as well as to
‘“ his particular and persevering care for maintaining
““ cleanliness among the crew, and for expelling all foul
““ air from every part of the ship.

‘“ While the necessary preparations for sea were go-
‘“ ing forward, which no doubt the commander could
‘“ commit to the attention and ability of his officers, the
Embassador wished to have the satisfaction of his
‘“ company with him to Pekin, where, if during his
“¢ stay, there should be any opportunity of an audience
““ of the Emperor, and his Imperial Majesty should be
““ disposed to ask any questions relative to the British
‘‘ navy, a person so experienced in it, could give him
‘“ the most complete satisfaction. One of the brigs might
‘“ remain in the Pei-ho river to convey him to the Lion;
¢« after which it was the Embassador’s desire that he
““ should sail away from the coast of China, so as not to
‘“ appear on any part of it, till the month of May en-
‘“ suing ; but to make the best of his way to the port of
““ Jeddo, on the southern coast of Japan, where he would
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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

country, a letter from his Excellency, to which, com-
ing to him in so respectable a manner, it was likely
he would pay attention.

‘“ His Excellency had little occasion to point out

* what should be the principal objects of notice, either

in the route, or there. Beside all nautical observations
and discoveries, in the importance of which he per-
fectly concurred with the commander, the latter would
be able soon to judge whether the people of Japan

entertain, at present, that marked aversion for all fo-

‘ reigners, which had been attributed to them formerly,

by persons who might, indeed, be influenced in their
accounts by a desire of deterring the English from
renewing any attempt to trade there. He might per-
haps also have an opportunity of finding out how far
their wants or fancies might lead them to purchase
any British manufactures ; and whether, in that case,
they had, beside copper, which England produced in
abundance from its own mines, any goods or un-
wrought materials that might be exported profitably
from thence to Great Britain. There was indeed
at that moment a strong impediment to any very
minute and particular negotiation with the court of

‘“ Japan, as it had not hitherto been found practicable

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to procure a Japanese interpreter ; but for the present
purpose it would be sufficient to have on board such
persons as understood the two general and common

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Navigation
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508 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Navigation‘ languages of the East of Asia, the Malay, and the
Te ws Chinese. As to the former, the native Malay sailor,
‘“ already serving in the Lion, who spoke some English,
and the English sailor who spoke the Malay language,
““ might be of use; and as to the Chinese, his Excel-
lency would, for the public service, give up the
personal convenience he expected to derive from the
attendance of a servant obtained by him from a mis-
sionary at Macao, and who was conversant in that
language, as well as in the Portugueze. Those three
persons might enable the commander to fulfil the ob-
jects in view, not only at Jeddo, but also in other
places to the southward, where he would have occa-
sion to go from thence. As soon as he should receive
an answer from the Japanese sovereign, or after waiting
about a fortnight at Jeddo, if he should happen to find
that no answer, either written or verbal, was likely to
be returned to the letter delivered by him, he was to
proceed to Manilla, where he was to hand to the go-
vernor of the Philippine islands residing there, a letter
from the Embassador.: The harbour of Cavite, at Ma-
nilla, was described as perfectly land-locked, and was
convenient as well as safe for ships of the largest size,
in all seasons of'the year. Fresh provisions of every
kind were said to be procurable there in great abund-
ance, and at reasonable rates. In this harbour, therefore,
‘“ the Lion should remain, until the commander found

 

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it practicable to sail farther to the southward, which,
from the experience of Mr. Dalrymple, would pro-
bably happen about November. During the com-
mander’s continuance at Cavite, he might obtain some
useful information of the present state of the country,
natural and civil, of its trade, and of the character of
the people. It was not unlikely that in the trading
port of Manilla might be found some persons who
had been in Japan, and had acquired a knowledge of
the language of that country. Such a person, con-
versant at the same time in any of the European
tongues, or at least in the Chinese or Malay, would
be an acquisition in the event of the Embassador’s go-
ing to execute his commission at the Japanese court.
And there was no reward not very much exceeding
a reasonable compensation, that he would not will-
ingly confer on such a person; and he would there-
fore subscribe to the conditions Sir Erasmus Gower
should find it necessary to make, if he should happen
to meet one in the course of his expedition. |

‘« In proceeding to the southward, as soon as might
be, Sir Erasmus would endeavour, beside other nau-
tical observations for the improvement of navigation
and geography, to visit the island of Lalutaya, which,
by a manuscript account of an experienced navigator,
subjoined to these instructions, appeared to contain a
very good harbour, and to be in other respects advan-

vOL. I, 7.8

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Navigation
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tageously circumstanced. It was laid down in about
ten degrees fifty minutes north latitude, distant about
twenty leagues to the eastward of the long island of
Palawan. It was named in the chart of Faveau's
voyage as reduced by Mr. Dalrymple. The neigh-

bouring island of Cuyo was said to abound in all

‘« kinds of provisions.

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¢“ From Lalutaya the Embassador wished the com-
mander of the Lion to proceed to Magindanao, other-
wise called Mindanao ; which, tho sometimes reckoned
among the Philippine islands as lying very near them,
was for the most part, if not entirely, independent of
the Spaniards ; and its government was generally at
variance with that people.

“ The Sultan of Magindanao had on former occa-
sions professed himself a friend of the English, and
by way of encouragement to them to trade in his do-
minions, he passed to them a grant of the island of
Bonwoot, situated near, and almost opposite, to the
principal port of Magindanao. The commander was
to deliver likewise a letter to that prince from the
Embassador ; and, after requesting a speedy answer,
he was to visit the island of Bonwoot, which was de-
scribed as having a convenient harbour. The com-
mander’s stay at Magindanao need not be more than
a few days, which he would certainly turn to the best
account, for the purpose of obtaining all kinds of in-
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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

formation. He would be able there to judge how
far it might be practicable and safe to continue his
voyage to Gilolo, which, as one of the Moluccas
from its situation, tho not subject to the Dutch, must
afford matter of much useful knowledge and observa-
tion. In the doubt whether he could conveniently
reach so far within the time allotted for the expedi-
tion, and in the uncertainty also of the disposition of
the sovereign of that country towards the English, or
any Europeans, the Embassador addressed no letter
there, tho he had, beside special commissions to par-
ticular princes, general credentials to treat, in his Ma-

““ jesty’s name, with any of the powers in the Chinese

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seas ; but if the commander should find it convenient
to reach Gilolo, and should discover any inclination
there in favour of the English, he was to announce
his Excellency’s intention of visiting that country, if
his stay in Asia would allow it, and of establishing a
connection useful to both nations.

““ Either from Gilolo, or immediately from Magin-

‘danao, Sir Erasmus Gower was to proceed to that part

of the large island of Celebes which is not subject to
the Dutch. His former experience at that island

would give him uncommon advantages on the present

occasion, both as to the navigation in the neighbour-
hood, and the disposition of the people. The Em-
bassador had only to propose, in regard to Celebes,

511

Navigation

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ls

 
512 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Navigation *¢ what already he had mentioned in relation to Gilolo,
ee «andito request the commander to make, under similar

‘“ circumstances, the same declaration of his Excellency’s

‘“ intentions ; and. the same also at the island of Borneo,

‘“ where he hoped the Lion would be able to stop also,
either at Bangar, Succedana, or at the capital, called,
like the great island itself, Borneo. In Bangar the
English had formerly a factory ; and in the city of
Borneo there were still supposed to be some British
subjects, cither constantly residing there, or occasion-
ally trading to it. Nothing would be more desirable,
““ or more consistent with the general object of the mis-
sion, than any fair and peaceable endeavour to spread
the use of British manufactures throughout every part
‘“ of Asia, from whence any valuable return might be
made to Europe, which was eminently the case of
““ Borneo. The jealousy of the Dutch traders might be
in the way in some parts of that extensive country ;
““ but others might be found where there was less a like-
lihood of interfering with them.

 

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““ The time which visiting so many places would
*“ take up, together with the delays which it might be
““ necessary to make in the several ports where the com-
mander was thus to stop, would probably bring him
to the vernal equinox, or thereabouts; after which he
should make the best of his way to Macao, where the
¢« Embassador would expect him as nearly as possible

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EMBASSY TO GHINA.

to the beginning of the following May. As no occa-
sion was to be omitted which promised any sort of
utility, or any addition to knowledge ; it occurred to
his Excellency that another and more successful trial
might be made to get into Pulo Lingen, if that place
should be in the Lion’s track, on her return to the
northward. The same motives of public benefit and
gratification would have induced him to include in
the route already pointed out, the eastern part of the
island of Formosa (which was said not to belong to
the Chinese), the several smaller islands to the east-

ward of Formosa, and the Leoo-keoo islands to the

southward of Corea, were he not afraid of interfering
too much with the other more material parts of the
undertaking ; but it would give him additional satis-
faction, if it should so happen that the commander

could see and gain information as to those places also.”

The Embassador concluded these instructions by ob-

serving, that ‘“ he had, without reluctance, expressed
‘“ his wishes as to the chief objects to be accomplished
‘“ by Sir Erasmus Gower, and had guarded them with

«« few recommendations of precaution, as he was im-
«« pressed with so full a confidence in the prudence and
“« ability of him to whom they were addressed. Sir Eras-
“ mus might be forced, by events which the Embassador
¢« could not foresee, or circumstances of which he was
“ not aware, to deviate from the route, and the instruc-

515

Navigation
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A ———

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EMBASSY TO CHINA.

tions thus communicated to him ; but his Excellency

~was persuaded, that he should have occasion to ap-

prove of his conduct; and had no doubt that his
time would be usefully employed for the public ser-

‘““ vice.

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Sir Erasmus Gower ¢¢ had no difficulty in saying,
that on the recovery of his people, or of part of them,
he should be able to visit the different places men-
tioned in the Embassador’s instructions ; that he would
have the bay of Ki-san-seu strictly examined ; and
should that place furnish security for the ship, he
would stop there to establish the health of the crew ;
if it did not, he conceived it would be necessary for
him to proceed to Chu-san ; that a letter would be de-
sirable to be obtained from the Chinese government for
him to those places, that he might be supplied with re-
freshments, and the use of a building for the sick and
convalescents, or, at any rate, a piece of ground on
which tents might be erected for them ; that his at-
tention to them rendered it incumbent upon him to
decline the proposal, however desirable, of going to
Pekin, that he might continue by them, and imme-
diately afterwards proceed to fulfil the objects pointed

‘“ out to him for the public benefit.”

Application was made to the mandarines for the let-

ter which was to secure good treatment for the Lion ;
and it was promised to be obtained without delay from
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

the viceroy of the province. In the mean time, as soon
as all the presents and baggage were transhipped, the
Embassador and his suite prepared to quit the Lion and
Hindostan. Upon this occasion there was a general
meeting on board the ships, between those who were to
depart from them, and those who were to remain be-
hind. Every pleasant circumstance occasioned by their
having been together, now occupied their minds; and
they took an affectionate farewell of each other. On the
departure of the Embassador, the crews of the ships,
who had indeed been picked men, and had behaved
well throughout the voyage, and in consequence had
lately received marks of his Excellency’s satisfaction,
most readily obeyed the orders for manning the yards,
as a mark of respect to him, and gave loud cheers,
which, together with the firing a salute of many guns
from each of the ships, afforded a new spectacle to the
Chinese.

The Embassador and most of the gentlemen of the Em-
bassy embarked on the fifth of August, 1793, for the Pei-
ho river, on board the Clarence, Jackall and Endeavour
brigs, while the remainder, with the servants, guards, mu-
sicians, and other attendants, accompanied the presents
and baggage in the junks. Proceeding with a favourable
breeze and a spring tide, they crossed the bar in a few
hours. The neighbouring coast is so very low as to be
scarcely discoverable, at two miles distance, but by means

515

Navigation
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516 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Navigation Of the buildings erected on it. Upon the bar, and within

Yellow sea. it, the water is thick and muddy, altho, outside, and at the

“Lion's birth, it was remarkably green and clear. This

bar was divided into a number of sandy banks, lying in

various directions, but so high and so close to each other

as to prevent the passage, even of such vessels as the

Clarence and Jackall, except at high water. The river

immediately within the bar deepened to three or four

fathoms. It was there, in width, about five hundred

yards, and covered almost entirely with junks, and craft

of every kind. On its southern bank, or to the left of

the entrance, was a small village called Tung-coo, with

a military post, where the troops were drawn up in com-
pliment to the Embassador.

On the idea which had been entertained that he must

be anxious to get ashore at the first land, in order to re-

cover from the irksomeness and fatigue of so long a

continuance at sea, the junks attending him suddenly

let go their anchors here. His Excellency, however,

preferred joining immediately the yacht, or accommo-

dation vessel, which was waiting for him a few miles

up the river. The situation of Tung-coo was not in-

deed inviting. The land was low and swampy, and

covered, in great measure, with the long and not useless

reed, then flowering, called arundo phragmites, generally

found in grounds occasionally inundated. The passage

from hence, as against the current of the river, was
EMBASSY TO CHINA.

necessarily slow. The frequent shoals of this winding
stream added also to the delay. When the force of an
adverse current was not overpowered by the wind or
tide, the vessels were tracked by human labour: a suffi-
cient number of Chinese peasants being employed for
that purpose. The vessels, in their progress, soon passed
another village called See-coo, and reached the same
evening the town of Ta-coo. The terminating syllable
of the names of all those places being the same, and in-
timating in the Chinese language their proximity to the
river's mouth, as the different initiating syllables do, that
the first is to the east, the second to the west, and that
the last is of considerable size.

Many of the houses in these places as well as those
which were thickly interspersed between them upon
the river's banks, were little better than huts with mud
walls and thatched roofs. A few buildings were large,
elevated, painted, and ornamented like the dwellings of
opulence ; but scarcely any which indicated the ex-
istence of middle ranks, or the multiplied gradations
existing elsewhere, between abundant wealth and abso-
lute indigence. Among the inhabitants who appeared
along the river were some women, as alert as if their
feet had not been cramped. It is said, indeed, that this
practice is now less frequent than formerly, at least
among the lower sort, in the northern provinces. They
all wear their hair, which is universally black, and

YOL. 1. 3 T

517

Navigation
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Yellow sea.

 
518 EMBASSY TO CHINA.

Navigation strong, neatly braided, and fastened with a bodkin upon
through the ¢ i
vellowsea. the crown of the head. The young children were

 

 

mostly naked. The men in general were well-looking,
well-limbed, robust, and muscular. The eagerness of
curiosity animated and perhaps improved their counte-
nances; and they were assembled in such multitudes,
that it might, with the poet, he exclaimed,

‘“ How many goodly creatures are there here!”

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

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